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The Denim Report

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The Denim Report 118 Fashion Forward Trends spring/summer 2016 | fabrics & more | FFT magazine 119 THE DENIM REPORT n this season, the denim offering is wide and qualitative: selvedge denim for purists, power stretch for trendsetters, washed-out effect for the 70s wind blowing around Ithe fashion world, and eco-friendly for green and ethical brands. Little did one know that the fabric would ingratiate itself in the mainstream so decidedly as to become the uniform of generations post the 80s. Irrespective of whether you belong in the 1% or the 99, your age bracket or your cultivated tastes, denim has been part of everyone’s wardrobe. It’s a 60 billion dollar market for retailers alone and designers are keen to partake a piece of this massive pie. It helps that the fabric is the ‘people pleaser’ – it will readily turn into anything one likes. Numerous innovations and fabric infusions such as khadi-denim, silk- denim, 3D textures and laser and ozone finishes change its face beyond comprehension, and this, once street-style, turns sophisticated enough to form a cocktail dress. INDUSTRY TRENDS Sustainability has been a long-standing buzzword but there is ever-newer growth in this direction. As the trend for distressed jeans diminishes, the dyeing process becomes less dependent on chemical sprays and resins. Multiple brands are opting to use 100% organic cotton and natural dye. Artisanal products go for untreated metal zippers and rivets, making it non-toxic. Chemical companies’ enthusiasm for change is making them to associate with leading jeans manufacturers to bring about major savings in key materials, energy, water usage, waste and emission reductions, and ensuring your right to operate in communities around the world. As denim continues to evolve each season, an untapped resource it has got into is Athleisure and High Performance. The fabric is increasingly used in a lighter version for jogger pants, workout wear and shape wear due to its lycra-denim stretch ability. It is waterproof, stain-proof and ideal for negotiating the concrete jungle for the urban warrior. Levi’s Commuter has already developed a water-repellent fabric with paraffin coated fibre. As the 90s become a roaring trend, there is talk of tie up with net-a-porter to resurrect the classic 501s. The 90s have given rise to another hyper trend: Artisanal jeans. Not only are they eco-friendly but also made in handlooms and are hyper local. The focus is on slow manufacturing and season less/vintage products. Ande Whall in New Zealand and Story Mfg. in Britain are the fountainheads of the trend. Huit, a Welsh brand even has artisanal jeans broken in for their clients before it goes on sale. Fashion Forward Trends autumn/winter 2015-16 | denim report | FFT magazine Concept Skinny Tops Fatigue The versatile fabric is going We have been waiting for the from pants to jackets to skinny jeans to die a public dress and finally, tops. These death and it is going to are not your run-of-the-mill happen. To be replaced by its denim shirts either but proper trendier cousin from the 70s, feminine tops with abstract the jean will be a softer, looser design concepts. Gone are version. Trouser pleats and the button-downs and in its creases do volume control and place are unusual proportions, jet pockets sit flat on the hip. kimono style collars, funnel The shape is parallel to the neck T-shirts. Tibi does a wrap leg and you can pair it up with over shirt in indigo, Loewe chunky knits for an authentic goes futuristic and Almeida 70s vibe. incorporates constructed details with shredded hemlines. Tibi Nina Ricci Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Massimo Rebecchi Loewe Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Marques Almeida Marques Karen Walker Karen The Oversized Shirtdress Utility Moschino and Karen Walker With boyfriend jeans already trotted out heavy-duty versions setting the trend for borrowing of the shirtdress in their A/W from the boys, jackets are next collection. A more rigid version in line. Roomy outerwear with is used to construct A-line multiple pockets and hoodies, shapes that stop short of the the proportions are an ideal knee. The heavy fabric is the contradiction to the delicate perfect defence against the feminine figure even as they winter. provide volume for multiple pockets. Due to the dramatic silhouette, the fabric has been kept subtle with strategic cuts, glossy tencel mixes and sombre denim tones. Telfar Moschino Paula Gerbase Christopher Raeburn Karen Walker Karen Vanessa Seward Vanessa Sea Public School Fashion Forward Trends autumn/winter 2015-16 | denim report | FFT magazine Overall All Allover Tied Up Starting off as humble work A major styling element on the wear, the overall has climbed runways of S/S 2015, broad its way up the trend ladder. belts were a major influence, This year multiple versions ranging from trench coat have made their presence style wrap-ties to Marques felt – all in durable denim. Almeida’s origami inspiration. Moschino does a multi-patch Pertinent for the winter, these version, making it rugged and create a feminine silhouette eccentric at the same time. by cinching the waist. Philip Digitally printed abstract Lim pays homage to the 90s florals, apron silhouettes, with his throwback styling and slim fits make it a far cry from Karen Walker uses parallel what denim overalls originally vertical zipper details to add looked like. height. Leonard 3.1 Philip Lim Marques Almeida Marques I'm isola marras Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Philosophy di Lorenzo Wes Gordon Wes Moschino Karen Walker Karen Pencil Stitch In Skirt Time The epitome of Spotted earlier among the sophistication, the boys, the fine tailored look pencil skirt has been of a denim blazer seems to given an edgy makeover be translating into feminine with denim. Seen across lines. Sharply cut blazers have the runways, Sea does been smoothed to accentuate classic 70s style with the feminine shape even as front curved pockets. double-breasted pea coats There is asymmetric and well-constructed jackets pleating, buttoned work well with the rigidity of down skirts reminiscent the denim. An added sheen of the classic Levi’s makes it formal enough for button fly, panelled work wear and yet casual looks and obscure because it’s jeans. proportions which have made the office wear Moschino Iceberg Iceberg Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Colcci Sea Vanessa Seward Vanessa Tom Ford Tom street-chic. 124 Fashion Forward Trends autumn/winter 2015-16 | denim report | FFT magazine Winter Slicing Shearling It Up Jackets with shearling Thigh high splits are not accents hark back to mid-90s news in the fashion market Americana. Chloe goes for but do that to denim skirts the Sherpa like details on the and you have a head turner shoulders and Rachel Comey in your hands. High-waisted uses it as snug lining for the pencil skirts with dramatic denim jacket. Raw to mid- slices at Marquis Almeida, cast indigos and tobacco multiple splits and double- stitching enhance the breasted details on the waist vintage feel. Lavish furs are create movement and add generously place on sleeves, femininity. panels, trims or collars and they all work with denim to provide a cosy wintery nostalgia. Rachel Comey Roberto Cavalli Iceberg Chloé Wes Gordon Wes Marques Almeida Marques Julia Seemann Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Denim Cropped Duster Flare There are trench coats and then Not going full 70s yet, instead there are trench coats, and then of the dramatic flare of the there is the denim duster that no decade, the 2015 redux is one wants to mess with. Taking a fitted flare that starts to off from the weightless kimono billow but just stops short of jacket trend doing the rounds, becoming full blown. Fit- denim and sometimes chambray and-flare is the new exciting work as a convenient alternative proportion in jeans. Ankle for a casual throw on top of the grazing or just above the regular outfit. Rachel Comey ankle, some ends are left does the minimalist avatar, Joie shredded for an authentic and brings us the polished evening youthful vibe while the others coat with brass buttons and are a neat polished crop for a belt fastenings and Marco De formal look. Vincenzo goes hardcore denim with the raw and patched style. Joie Rachel Comey Marques Almeida Marques Rachel Comey Roberto Cavalli Opening-Ceremony Marques Almeida Marques Marco De Vincenzo Marco 126 Fashion Forward Trends autumn/winter 2015-16 | denim report | FFT magazine 127 Gloss Les Fleurs As we look into the future Du Mal everything becomes sleeker and shinier, even Flowers never go out of style, the originally rugged fabric either they are moving in on of denim. Noted on the T-shirts or dresses and now, our Autumn/Winter 2015-16 beloved jeans. Marc by Marc runways of Wes Gordon and Jacobs goes bold and tropical Yang Li, soft tencel blends is shades of blue in a William have been added in lush Morris oak leaf pattern, drawing indigo and sleek black. inspirations from upholstery but This gives rugged denim a still a very California laid back refined quality, making it a feel. It harks back to the usage sophisticated fabric for the of traditional pattern making evening. Due to its fluidity it vis-à-vis digital or photographic is going to be increasingly techniques. Rebecca Taylor also used in utilitarian clothing does flowers in blue but they are a like overalls and shop coats. fresher juxtaposition with whites. Marques Almeida goes goth with a blue rose print on slouchy denim Rebecca Taylor Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Philosophy di Lorenzo Marc by Marc Jacobs by Marc Marc Yang Li Yang Alexis Mabille Marques Almeida Marques Paul Smith Wes Gordon Wes that is our favourite.
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