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Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
Trash to Treasure Sweater Welcome Back to the May Arts Blog! Recently
Trash to Treasure Sweater Welcome back to the May Arts Blog! Recently I decided it was time to go through my closet and drawers and do some weeding out of clothes I no longer wore. This sweater still had lots of wear in it but the boxy cut and tie at the neckline made it a candidate for the donate pile. That is, until I received a roll of May Arts Denim Ribbon! I couldn’t believe the transformation! The first step was absolutely the hardest…cutting the sweater apart. I found using a cutting mat, ruler and rotary cutter to be the best way to get a straight line. Place the cutting mat inside the sweater, line the ruler up and cut! I just snipped the ties with scissors. Next, measure your sweater from the bottom edge to the top. Cut May Arts 1 ½ inch Denim the length of your sweater plus one inch for folding under. Wash and dry your ribbon, then, using an iron, fold and press lengthwise. Fold under 1/2 inch at the top and bottom. Pin and sew close to the unfolded edge. I could have stopped there but I decided to make an easy denim flower pin to adorn the sweater. A pin back means it can be removed and added to another outfit. Simply cut a length of May Arts Denim ribbon, hand pleat and sew along the edge to secure the pleats. You can make the pin as big or small as you’d like. Fold into a spiral then add a few hand stitches to secure your flower shape. -
The Balmoral Tartan
The Balmoral Tartan Introduction The Balmoral tartan (Fig 1) is said to have been designed in 1853 by Prince Albert, The Prince Consort, Queen Victoria's husband. It is unique in several respects: it is the only tartan known to have been designed by a member of the Royal Family; has a unique construction; and is reserved for members of the Royal Family. It is worn by HM The Queen and several members of the Royal Family but only with the Queen's permission. The only other approved wearers of the Balmoral tartan are the Piper to the Sovereign and pipers on the Balmoral Estate (estate workers and ghillies wear the Balmoral tweed). Fig 1. Specimen of the original Balmoral Tartan c1865. © The Author. There is some confusion over the exact date of the original design. In 1893 D.W. Stewarti wrote, ''Her Majesty the Queen has not only granted permission for its publication here, but has also graciously afforded information concerning its inception in the early years of the reign, when the sett was designed by the Prince Consort.'' Harrison (1968) ii states that both the Balmoral tartan and Tweed were designed by Prince Albert. Writing of the tartan specimen in Stewart’s Old & Rare Harrison noted that “The illustrations were all woven in fine silk which did not allow of (sic) the reproduction of the pure black and white twist effect of the original. Mr Stewart compromised by using shades of dull mauve as the nearest that his materials allowed. Thus, for generations the Balmoral was looked upon not as a pure grey scheme but as a scheme of very quiet mauves” (Fig 2). -
Kilts & Tartan
Kilts & Tartan Made Easy An expert insider’s frank views and simple tips Dr Nicholas J. Fiddes Founder, Scotweb Governor, Why YOU should wear a kilt, & what kind of kilt to get How to source true quality & avoid the swindlers Find your own tartans & get the best materials Know the outfit for any event & understand accessories This e-book is my gift to you. Please copy & send it to friends! But it was a lot of work, so no plagiarism please. Note my copyright terms below. Version 2.1 – 7 November 2006 This document is copyright Dr Nicholas J. Fiddes (c) 2006. It may be freely copied and circulated only in its entirety and in its original digital format. Individual copies may be printed for personal use only. Internet links should reference the original hosting address, and not host it locally - see back page. It may not otherwise be shared, quoted or reproduced without written permission of the author. Use of any part in any other format without written permission will constitute acceptance of a legal contract for paid licensing of the entire document, at a charge of £20 UK per copy in resultant circulation, including all consequent third party copies. This will be governed by the laws of Scotland. Kilts & Tartan - Made Easy www.clan.com/kiltsandtartan (c) See copyright notice at front Page 1 Why Wear a Kilt? 4 Celebrating Celtic Heritage.................................................................................................. 4 Dressing for Special Occasions.......................................................................................... -
The Denim Report
118 Fashion Forward Trends spring/summer 2016 | fabrics & more | FFT magazine 119 THE DENIM REPORT n this season, the denim offering is wide and qualitative: selvedge denim for purists, power stretch for trendsetters, washed-out effect for the 70s wind blowing around Ithe fashion world, and eco-friendly for green and ethical brands. Little did one know that the fabric would ingratiate itself in the mainstream so decidedly as to become the uniform of generations post the 80s. Irrespective of whether you belong in the 1% or the 99, your age bracket or your cultivated tastes, denim has been part of everyone’s wardrobe. It’s a 60 billion dollar market for retailers alone and designers are keen to partake a piece of this massive pie. It helps that the fabric is the ‘people pleaser’ – it will readily turn into anything one likes. Numerous innovations and fabric infusions such as khadi-denim, silk- denim, 3D textures and laser and ozone finishes change its face beyond comprehension, and this, once street-style, turns sophisticated enough to form a cocktail dress. INDUSTRY TRENDS Sustainability has been a long-standing buzzword but there is ever-newer growth in this direction. As the trend for distressed jeans diminishes, the dyeing process becomes less dependent on chemical sprays and resins. Multiple brands are opting to use 100% organic cotton and natural dye. Artisanal products go for untreated metal zippers and rivets, making it non-toxic. Chemical companies’ enthusiasm for change is making them to associate with leading jeans manufacturers to bring about major savings in key materials, energy, water usage, waste and emission reductions, and ensuring your right to operate in communities around the world. -
25-29 Music Listings 4118.Indd
saturday–sunday MUSIC Ladysmith Black Mambazo Guantanamo Baywatch, Hurry Up, SUNDAY, MARCH 8 [AFRIcA’S GoLDEn tHRoAtS] the Cumstain, Pookie and Poodlez legendary, Grammy-hoarding South [GARAGE RocK] on its new single African vocal group, now halfway Retox, Whores, ”too Late,” Portland’s Guantanamo through its fifth decade, has tran- Rabbits, Phantom Family Baywatch trades its formerly scended the Western pop notori- [HARDCORE] Fatalist, nihilist, blis- reverb-flooded garage-rock sound ety that followed its contributions tering, brutal—these are just a few for tamer, Motown-influenced bal- to Paul Simon’s Graceland, becom- of the better words to describe ladry. It’s a signal that the upcom- ing a full-fledged ambassador for hardcore crew Retox, a group whose ing Darling…It’s Too Late, dropping the culture of its homeland. But pedigree includes members of sim- in May on Suicide Squeeze, may one doesn’t need familiarity with ilarly thorny outfits such as the fully shift the band away from that its lengthy history to be stirred Locust, Head Wound city and Holy signature Burger Records’ sound, by those golden voices. Aladdin Molar. one adjective that doesn’t which has flooded the market Theater, 3017 SE Milwaukie Ave., get used very often, though it with pseudo-psychedelic surf-rock 234-9694. 8 pm. $35. 21+. should, is “funny.” It’s understand- groups indistinguishable from one able that this quality wouldn’t trans- another. LUcAS cHEMOTTI. The late through singer Justin Pearson’s Low Cut Connie Know, 2026 NE Alberta St., 473- larynx-ripping screech. But Retox [tHE WHItE KEYS] An invasive 8729. -
The Republican Journal: Vol. 78, No. 10
The Republican Journal. r^^ME78 BELFAST, MAINE, THURSDAY, MARCH 8, 1906. __NUMBER 10 CASH RECEIPTS. of Waldo County Veterans. fOR Emery F. a New York contents of Today’s Paper. Meeting MAYOR. White, entertainer, Government Fines.».$87.06 PERSONAL. will appear under the auspices of the Help- City Meeting. Cards. 32-10 The Waldo County Veteran Association somehow societv of the Baptist church at Churches.... Booklovers. 3.04 ii gliway Robbery ...The March Hancock hall, Ellsworth, Friday The of the Council Old sold. .. 4.87 hall, Swanville, evening, I’- ‘Cuts and Boats....City Government regular meeting City paper met at the Grange Sherman W. Freeman of Hartford, Conn, March 27.—Hancock March 5th. books sold. 8.88 County Demoorat. Mu ting ..Municipal Elections..»ieet- was held Monday evening, 1st. was cold and the traveling ...News The day was in town Monday. ,,f Waldo County Veterans Mayor Shales presided, a full board of al- Mrs. Florence Shibles Mahar and sou so- $123.86 but a number was present. the Granges .Obituary..Seciet. dermen was present and there was a full hard, quite good Chester A. Sun- ror Orlando E. Frost, called to order Grant, Colby '06, spent Llewellyn of Wrentham, Mass., were sud- iies Mayor board in the council room. Roll of accounts of the children’s books should be The forenoon meeting was Elections..Transfers in Real ts- Many at his home in un No. 12 are the new About 70 books Bowen -of Morrill. day Unity. denly called back to her old home in Belfast Maiue News Items...Personal. -
10.92 14.99 *V
J ' •* ,. FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 10,1961 ifta Weeiheir Avenge Dally Net Preea Rm I ^ U. I8.^'WmthMr 1 TfkGK F d m i E E N r v v the VBMk Itodad ± Dim . 91. 1999 VWr mM m U tonight tea Ut MsBOhsater Child Bttt'jiy O f W 13,314 S 86. Snntoy «k*etowlng * « * ■ * , . ' Loyal CIxtila o f K w f’a Daugfetara TV, Radio, Topics Beat Tuesdsy at 1 pja- to JkXLM M W clM aM ^^ Wgkt omnf j iVifaftoy wiU meet In the FUtowaUp Itoera Hospital Notes Buckley Bdwol M br^. F U R N A C E ^ IL MMabMF.nf tiM AndM Into to dky. n gh tet tor leik AbptttTown of Center Concregmtlaoat Oburdi Of Oiild Unit Talk ^IS'subject FlU ^ ^ ABt essalt o PsEfisKr Bnnu «f OMoIntloa Monday a t 7:45 p jn . Co-hoatoaaea M o ^ Today. How Do They iB- Manchetter^A City,of ViUage Chorm Th« atpwr aub wfl » j«t- will be Mra. Clarence Peteraen and VMtfev h m an t ts S p-m flueooo CWldreBT” LT. W O O D C O . t ie i* putty tomorrow ni(ht at 8 tar an aiaaa ' vm M asatonMy R ol^ Dlgwi. M aaolieatpr • t O M U t Mlaa Dorothy PeUraen. A baby-sltttog oervloo tot (GtaMlfM AdvmtWng an Pngn t) •mCE'FIVB CEN«’;'f^:,!| e’dock. publte la Invited. wkan ihsy an t <e « : » aai 8188 seiwol attsBdaaee oftlowr, wiU be school ohlldreo wlU be avaUable at YdL. LXXX, NO. 112 (TEN PA^^S—TV 8®CrnON--SUBU|ffl||A TODAY) MANCHESTER, c 6n n \ SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 1\,.19C1 T Army PrL James A. -
Aero Style Review the Outerwear Edition
AERO STYLE REVIEW THE OUTERWEAR EDITION 100 Years of Gentleman’s Clothing What the Brits Wore Aero Leather; In the Beginning The Story of The Highwayman Hard Times meant Great Jackets in USA From the Bookshelf The Label Archives ISSUE THREE A SMALL SELECTION OF AERO LABELS Page by Page: THE CONTENTS 2 100 Years of British Clothing: Saville Row to Scappa Flow No Century brought so many changes to men’s clothing as the nation went through the Class Divide, two World Wars, The General Strike, Rock’n’Roll, Psychedelia, Punk Rock and the re Birth of proper leather jackets in 1981. 6 Aero Leather Clothing: A Series of “Firsts” Classic Leather Jackets, how a small Scottish company led the revolution, bringing back lost tailoring techniques while resurrecting Horsehide as the leather of choice. 8 The Story of The Highwayman: Battersea To Greenbank Mill Perhaps the best known jacket of the last 40 years, how it went from its 1950s inception all the way to the 21st Century and back again, this time to the 1930s. 10 Hard Times but Great Jackets in USA: The Depression Years While the country suffered The Great Depression, Prohibition and The Dust Storms necessity saw the birth of some of the most outstanding jackets of the Century. 12 From the Bookcase: Essential companions for a rainy afternoon A selection of reference books recommended for collectors of vintage clothing covering Vintage Leather Jackets, The USAAF, The CC41 Scheme and Aero Leather Clothing. Cover: Luke Evans wears an Aero “Hudson”. Photo by Gavin Bond. Contents Page: Aero founder Ken Calder. -
The Mystery of a Hansom Cab
CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY FROM ^.R. B.Willis Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in tlie Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924013486216 ALPHA LIBRARY. The Mystery of a Hansom Cab By Fergus W. Hume. ^|r Chicago and New York; Rand, McNally & Company, Publishers, : THE MYSTERY OF A HANSOM CAB. CHAPTER I. WHAT THB "AKGUS" SAID. The following report appeared in the Argus newspaper of Saturday, the 28th July, 18— " Truth is said to be stranger than fiction, and certainly the extraordinary murder which took place in Melbourne on Thursday night, or rather Friday morning, goes a long way towards verifying this saying. A crime has been com- mitted by an unknown assassin, within a short distance of the principal street of this great city, and is surrounded by an impenetrable mystery. Indeed, from the nature of the crime itself, the place where it was committed, and the fact that the assassin has escaped without leaving a trace behind him, it would seem as though the case itself had been taken bodily out of Gaboreau's novels, and that' his famous detective Lecocq only would be able to unravel it. The facts of the case are simply these: " On the twenty-seventh day of July, at the hour of twenty minutes to two o'clock in the morning, a hansom cab drove up to the police station, in Grey Street, St. Kilda, and the driver made the startling statement that his cab contained the body of a man whom he had reason to be- lieve had been murdered. -
Garments, Parts of Garments, and Textile Techniques in the Assyrian
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Terminologies from the Orient to the Centre for Textile Research Mediterranean and Europe, 1000 BC to 1000 AD 2017 Garments, Parts of Garments, and Textile Techniques in the Assyrian Terminology: The eoN - Assyrian Textile Lexicon in the 1st-Millennium BC Linguistic Context Salvatore Gaspa University of Copenhagen Follow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/texterm Part of the Ancient History, Greek and Roman through Late Antiquity Commons, Art and Materials Conservation Commons, Classical Archaeology and Art History Commons, Classical Literature and Philology Commons, Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons, Indo-European Linguistics and Philology Commons, Jewish Studies Commons, Museum Studies Commons, Near Eastern Languages and Societies Commons, and the Other History of Art, Architecture, and Archaeology Commons Gaspa, Salvatore, "Garments, Parts of Garments, and Textile Techniques in the Assyrian Terminology: The eN o-Assyrian Textile Lexicon in the 1st-Millennium BC Linguistic Context" (2017). Textile Terminologies from the Orient to the Mediterranean and Europe, 1000 BC to 1000 AD. 3. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/texterm/3 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Centre for Textile Research at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Terminologies from the Orient to the Mediterranean and Europe, 1000 BC to 1000 AD by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Garments, Parts of Garments, and Textile Techniques in the Assyrian Terminology: The Neo- Assyrian Textile Lexicon in the 1st-Millennium BC Linguistic Context Salvatore Gaspa, University of Copenhagen In Textile Terminologies from the Orient to the Mediterranean and Europe, 1000 BC to 1000 AD, ed. -
The War and Fashion
F a s h i o n , S o c i e t y , a n d t h e First World War i ii Fashion, Society, and the First World War International Perspectives E d i t e d b y M a u d e B a s s - K r u e g e r , H a y l e y E d w a r d s - D u j a r d i n , a n d S o p h i e K u r k d j i a n iii BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK 1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA 29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published in Great Britain 2021 Selection, editorial matter, Introduction © Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian, 2021 Individual chapters © their Authors, 2021 Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Editors of this work. For legal purposes the Acknowledgments on p. xiii constitute an extension of this copyright page. Cover design by Adriana Brioso Cover image: Two women wearing a Poiret military coat, c.1915. Postcard from authors’ personal collection. This work is published subject to a Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial No Derivatives Licence. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third- party websites referred to or in this book.