A Study of Fashionable Silk Veiling, Maline, and Tulle from 1904

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

A Study of Fashionable Silk Veiling, Maline, and Tulle from 1904

University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings Textile Society of America 2002 A Study of Fashionable Silk Veiling, Maline, and Tulle from 1904 Joanne Dolan University of Massachusetts Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf Part of the Art and Design Commons Dolan, Joanne, "A Study of Fashionable Silk Veiling, Maline, and Tulle from 1904" (2002). Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. 382. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/382 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. A Study of Fashionable Silk Veiling, Maline, and Tulle from 1904 by Joanne Dolan A group of silk net, veiling, tulle, and maline, all sheer draping fabrics produced in unique patterns and colors is the subject of this paper. They form part of a larger collection of materials in a variety of fabrications consisting of raffia, feathers, paper, horsehair, sequins, and chenille. The amassed group is contained in a sample book dated Printemps 1904, and suggests that it may have served as a millinery swatch service book. I intend to focus only on the silk draping materials and examine their fabrication, design, and use in millinery during the first decade of the twentieth century. In addition I will draw comparisons to their geometric designs with the universality of geometry as a source of pattern. The millinery fashion and trade press of 1904 and 1905 reveal the degree of novelty that was in demand at that time. The importation of silk veiling into the United States reached an all time high in the years 1904 and 1905. I aim to reveal that the importation of silk veiling was very specific to millinery and these importation records reflect the changing taste in millinery silks. .

Copy Link

Recommended publications

Clothing of Kansas Women, 1854-1870
CLOTHING OF KANSAS WOMEN 1854 - 1870 by BARBARA M. FARGO B. A., Washburn University, 1956 A MASTER'S THESIS submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree MASTER OF SCIENCE Department of Clothing, Textiles and Interior Design KANSAS STATE UNIVERSITY Manhattan, Kansas 1969 )ved by Major Professor ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The author wishes to express sincere appreciation to her adviser, Dr. Jessie A. Warden, for her assistance and guidance during the writing of this thesis. Grateful acknowledgment also is expressed to Dr. Dorothy Harrison and Mrs. Helen Brockman, members of the thesis committee. The author is indebted to the staff of the Kansas State Historical Society for their assistance. TABLE OP CONTENTS PAGE ACKNOWLEDGMENT ii INTRODUCTION AND PROCEDURE 1 REVIEW OF LITERATURE 3 CLOTHING OF KANSAS WOMEN 1854 - 1870 12 Wardrobe planning 17 Fabric used and produced in the pioneer homes 18 Style and fashion 21 Full petticoats 22 Bonnets 25 Innovations in acquisition of clothing 31 Laundry procedures 35 Overcoming obstacles to fashion 40 Fashions from 1856 44 Clothing for special occasions 59 Bridal clothes 66 SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS 72 REFERENCES 74 LIST OF PLATES PLATE PAGE 1. Bloomer dress 15 2. Pioneer woman and child's dress 24 3. Slat bonnet 30 4. Interior of a sod house 33 5. Children's clothing 37 6. A fashionable dress of 1858 42 7. Typical dress of the 1860's 47 8. Black silk dress 50 9. Cape and bonnet worn during the 1860's 53 10. Shawls 55 11. Interior of a home of the late 1860's 58 12.
[Show full text]
“Al-Tally” Ascension Journey from an Egyptian Folk Art to International Fashion Trend
مجمة العمارة والفنون العدد العاشر “Al-tally” ascension journey from an Egyptian folk art to international fashion trend Dr. Noha Fawzy Abdel Wahab Lecturer at fashion department -The Higher Institute of Applied Arts Introduction: Tally is a netting fabric embroidered with metal. The embroidery is done by threading wide needles with flat strips of metal about 1/8” wide. The metal may be nickel silver, copper or brass. The netting is made of cotton or linen. The fabric is also called tulle-bi-telli. The patterns formed by this metal embroidery include geometric figures as well as plants, birds, people and camels. Tally has been made in the Asyut region of Upper Egypt since the late 19th century, although the concept of metal embroidery dates to ancient Egypt, as well as other areas of the Middle East, Asia, India and Europe. A very sheer fabric is shown in Ancient Egyptian tomb paintings. The fabric was first imported to the U.S. for the 1893 Chicago. The geometric motifs were well suited to the Art Deco style of the time. Tally is generally black, white or ecru. It is found most often in the form of a shawl, but also seen in small squares, large pieces used as bed canopies and even traditional Egyptian dresses. Tally shawls were made into garments by purchasers, particularly during the 1920s. ملخص البحث: التمي ىو نوع من انواع االتطريز عمى اقمشة منسوجة ويتم ىذا النوع من التطريز عن طريق لضم ابر عريضة بخيوط معدنية مسطحة بسمك 1/8" تصنع ىذه الخيوط من النيكل او الفضة او النحاس.واﻻقمشة المستخدمة في صناعة التمي تكون مصنوعة اما من القطن او الكتان.
[Show full text]
MAKE YOUR OWN SCRUBBIE Create Your Netting Yarn Step 1 Lay Your
MAKE YOUR OWN SCRUBBIE Create Your Netting Yarn Step 1 Lay your yard of netting (When I was doing craft sales I bought 5 yard lengths.) out on the floor or table (I use my bed or couch and pin it down.). Fold netting to make several layers into a long rectangle, as it came off the bolt. It’s still folded. Try to line up the folded edge as straight as you can. (I put a few pins in to hold the folded piece together.) Step 2 Cut strips 3 to 4 inches in width down the length of the folded rectangle, cutting perpendicular to the end of the fabric to get the longest strips. Cut from the fold out to the opposite edge. Remember it’s folded so the width of the first strip will be double when opened. Therefore cut the first strip narrower(about 1½ inches) . Your first strip (and the last one or two) will be a little irregular when you begin to use it. Your creativity will dictate how to adjust. We are not concerned about perfection here. If you are a perfectionist, buy a machine made scrubbie. If you want a two colored scrubbie cut 1½ to 2 inch strips from both colors and use both strands like one strip. (See the red and white one shown in step 5.) Step 3 Tie the ends of the strips together with a simple knot to form one continuous strip. Wind the strips into a ball if you wish. (I cut the strips as I use them.) Crochet a Simple Scrubbie Step 1 Tie the free end of the strip of nylon net into a slip knot and place the loop over a medium-sized crochet hook, size J or K, and chain four.
[Show full text]
Textile Society of America Newsletter 27:2 — Fall 2015 Textile Society of America
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Newsletters Textile Society of America Fall 2015 Textile Society of America Newsletter 27:2 — Fall 2015 Textile Society of America Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews Part of the Art and Design Commons Textile Society of America, "Textile Society of America Newsletter 27:2 — Fall 2015" (2015). Textile Society of America Newsletters. 71. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews/71 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Newsletters by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. VOLUME 27. NUMBER 2. FALL, 2015 Cover Image: Collaborative work by Pat Hickman and David Bacharach, Luminaria, 2015, steel, animal membrane, 17” x 23” x 21”, photo by George Potanovic, Jr. page 27 Fall 2015 1 Newsletter Team BOARD OF DIRECTORS Roxane Shaughnessy Editor-in-Chief: Wendy Weiss (TSA Board Member/Director of External Relations) President Designer and Editor: Tali Weinberg (Executive Director) [email protected] Member News Editor: Ellyane Hutchinson (Website Coordinator) International Report: Dominique Cardon (International Advisor to the Board) Vita Plume Vice President/President Elect Editorial Assistance: Roxane Shaughnessy (TSA President) and Vita Plume (Vice President) [email protected] Elena Phipps Our Mission Past President [email protected] The Textile Society of America is a 501(c)3 nonprofit that provides an international forum for the exchange and dissemination of textile knowledge from artistic, cultural, economic, historic, Maleyne Syracuse political, social, and technical perspectives.
[Show full text]
Instructions and Free Patterns
Instructions and free patterns www.mybernette.com “Romantic style” project sewing instructions Frilly blouse Sizes 3434––––4242 European (4(4(4-(4 ---1212 US/6US/6----1414 UK) You'll need - 1.2m (1 3/8 yd) pink taffeta (fabric width 1.5m (5')) - 0.45m (½ yd) white tulle (fabric width 1.5m (5')) - 0.50 m (1/2 yd) pink voile (fabric width 1.5m (5')) - 1.5m (1 2/3 yd) satin ribbon, approx. 4mm (1/6") wide - Assorted sewing and embroidery threads in pink - Embroidery stabilizer for the facing - Spray adhesive - Sewing thread to match the color of the fabric - Gathering foot - Cording foot Fabric rerecommendationcommendation Taffeta or other shiny, slightly crisp fabric for the blouse. Sheer fabrics that can be gathered with the gathering foot for the frills. Good to know The decorative stitches will cause the fabric to shrink slightly, so be sure to add 2.5cm (1") seam allowance to the outer facing when cutting it out. After embellishing the facing with decorative stitching, reposition the paper pattern on the stitched fabric and trim the seam allowance to 1.5cm (5/8"). Cutting out Seam allowanceallowancess ––– When cutting out, add 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance to all edges and the hem, and 1cm (3/8") to armhole curves. Pink taffeta 2 x front 1 x back to fabric fold 2 x facing 2 x belt loops: 1.5cm x 8cm (5/8" x 3 ¼"), including seam allowance 1 x belt: 8cm x 66cm (3 ¼" x 26"), including seam allowance 2 x bias binding for armhole, cut on cross-grain: 4cm x 47cm (1 5/8" x 18 1/2") Sheer voile, taffetataffeta,,,, or tulle Tear or cut (depending on the fabric's texture) 2cm- (7/8"-) wide strips for the frill on the facing.
[Show full text]
BED BANK County Is Declared a Disaster Area in Wake of Hurricane
Weather ~" Distribution Fair today; high about 70. BED BANK Today Cloudy tonight, low 60. Chance of rain tomorrow; high, 60s. 16,250 MONDAY THROUGH TttlDAY-EST. Wl See weather and tides page 2, 35 C P E E K VOL. 83, NO. 53 Iisucd Dally, Monday through Friday, entered as Second Clasi Matter RED BANK, N. J., THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 1960 7c PER COPY R Y S, F R PAGE ONE at the Post OHlce at Red Bank. N. J., under the Act of March 3, 1879. Soviet Attack County Is Declared On Dag Poses A Disaster Area In Crisis for UN Wake of Hurricane UNITED NATIONS, N. Y. (AP)-.The United Nations faced a major crisis today as a result of a slashing Soviet attack on Secre- tary General Dag Hammarskjold and his Congo policies. Officials Inspect Damage, A wide-open break was threatened virtually on the eve ol Soviet Premier Nikita S. Khrushchev's appearance here. The Western powers, led by Ethel Plan U.S., State Aid Bills the United States, prepared to rally to Hammarskjold's sup- Three major developments took place yesterday AF Finds in the aftermath of Hurricane Donna. port in another round of Se- •Is. New curity Council meetings begin- Rep. James C. Auchincloss toured scenes of storm ning this morning on the cha- destruction in the Bayshore, and announced that Mon- otic Congo situation. Missing The Soviet attack, more bitter Threat mouth County has been declared a disaster area, along than any ever made by a big with Atlantic, Cape May and Ocean Counties.
[Show full text]
Woven-To-Size Grassweave
GRASSWEAVE GRASSWEAVE An organic,An organic, modern modern mix mix of of refined refined toto rusticrustic textures,textures, hand crafted loomed with with artisanalartisanal technique technique to exquisiteto exquisite detail. detail. Handwoven Crafted with with sustainable sustainable blends blendsof grass of grass fibers, fibers, including including banana banana stem, stem, ramie, ramie, arrowroot, arrowroot, river river reed, reed,jute, jute, abaca, abaca, vetiver, vetiver, palm, palm, water water hyacinth, hyacinth, walingi walingi and and bamboo. bamboo. Grassweave [WTS] LE1006 Cambric LE1053 Silesia LE1062 Challis ELEMENTS Fresh, pure and timeless, this richly refined linen-like textile offers sophisticated beauty in a wide array of colorways ranging from neutral hues to dramatic darker tones, including Georgette a new rich black. LE1055 Sindon LE1052 Batiste LE1050 Sendal LE1015 Cambresine LE1054 Borato LE1084 Zephyr LE1087 Georgette NEW Price Group: 6 | Max Width: 180" Available Styles: Roman, Roller, Drapery, Top Treatment 037 | HARTMANNFORBES.COM | 888.582.8780 Shown: LE1050 Elements – Sendal, Old Style Roman Designer – Lindsay Anyon Brier, Anyon Interior Design | Photo – John Merkl Design – Brian del Toro, Inc | Photo – Marco Ricca Grassweave [WTS] TABARET Influenced by vintage European linen, this handwoven textile of ramie fiber offers subtle variegated stripes in nature’s hues, creating a harmonious mix of status and pedigree. LE2630 Lawn LE2660 Greylake LE2657 Lagoon LE2645 Brownstone Price Group: 6 | Max Width: 180" Available Styles: Roman, Roller, Drapery, Top Treatment Shown: LE2630 Tabaret – Lawn, Rollerfold Style 888.582.8780 | HARTMANNFORBES.COM | 040 Grassweave [WTS] GLIMMER This lustrous fine weave is ethereal, almost weightless, accented with micro hand knots that inject a pared-down luxe aesthetic.
[Show full text]
ISIC) Is the International Reference Classification of Productive Activities
Economic & Social Affairs @ek\ieXk`feXcJkXe[Xi[@e[ljki`Xc:cXjj`]`ZXk`fef]8cc<Zfefd`Z8Zk`m`k`\j@J@: #I\m%+ @ek\ieXk`feXcJkXe[Xi[@e[ljki`Xc :cXjj`]`ZXk`fef]8cc<Zfefd`Z 8Zk`m`k`\j@J@: #I\m%+ Series M No. 4, Rev.4 Statistical Papers asdf United Nations Published by the United Nations ISBN 978-92-1-161518-0 Sales No. E.08.XVII.25 07-66517—August 2008—2,330 ST/ESA/STAT/SER.M/4/Rev.4 Department of Economic and Social Affairs Statistics Division Statistical papers Series M No. 4/Rev.4 International Standard Industrial Classification of All Economic Activities Revision 4 asdf United Nations New York, 2008 Department of Economic and Social Affairs The Department of Economic and Social Affairs of the United Nations Secretariat is a vital interface between global policies in the economic, social and environmental spheres and national action. The Department works in three main interlinked areas: (i) it compiles, generates and analyses a wide range of economic, social and environ- mental data and information on which States Members of the United Nations draw to review common problems and to take stock of policy options; (ii) it facilitates the negotiations of Member States in many intergovernmental bodies on joint courses of action to address ongoing or emerging global challenges; and (iii) it advises interested Governments on the ways and means of translating policy frameworks developed in United Nations conferences and summits into programmes at the country level and, through technical assistance, helps build national capacities. Note The designations used and the presentation of material in this publication do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Secretariat of the United Nations concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area, or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries.
[Show full text]
Assiut - the Cloth of Egypt Dawn Devine ~ Davina ~ [email protected]
Assiut - The Cloth of Egypt Dawn Devine ~ Davina www.davina.us ~ [email protected] Vintage Assiut, Detail c. 1920 Photo by A. Westerfeld Riq Player, Early 20th Century British Caravan, The Graphic, Feb- Unknown Arab woman, Cabnet Card. Courtesy Library of ruary 1, 1906, p. 172 Detail. First Decade of the 20th century. Congress Antique & Vintage Assuit on dis- Tally - or metal - work appears in Alma Aicha’s dance in the Egyp- play at the Liquid Silver boutique,, Turkish style garments and house- tian café of the Rue du Caire, Paris, Photo by L. Harris hold textiles from the mid 19th 1889 - Bibliothèque Nationale, century on. Robe from the collec- Département des Estampes et de tion of N. Hernandez. la Photographie. Photo by A. Westerfeld Assiut – Fascinating Facts • Known as tulle bi telli or al tally throughout Egypt, in the west, this cloth is named after its city of origin, Assiut. This region was the heart of the Egyptian textile industry in the 19th century. • Assiut is spelled a variety of ways. It’s transliterated from Arabic into English and there are no set spelling conventions. The two most widely accepted spellings for the name of this Egyptian city are Assiut and Asyut, but there are dozens of variations on this spelling. When performing key-word searches, be sure to use every variation you can think of, including these assuit, asuit, asyute, azute, and even azoot. • The ground cloth is made from cotton tulle, named after the lace capi- tal of France. However, the machine used to make the mesh ground cloth was invented in 1806-1808 by English inventor John Heathcoat.
[Show full text]
December 1974 TARIFFS and TRADE Special Distribution
RESTRICTED COM.TEX/W/15 GENERAL AGREEMENT ON 9 December 1974 TARIFFS AND TRADE Special Distribution Textiles Committee Original : English/ French/ Spanish NOTE BY THE SECRETARIAT REGARDING THE STANDARDINTERNATIONAL-TRADE CLASSIFICATION. REVISION 21 The second revised version of the Standard International Trade Classification (SITC, Rev.2) has been adopted by the United Nations Statistical Commission at its eighteenth session held in Geneva from 7-18 October 1974. The parts concerning textiles, namely Division 65, Textile Yarn, Fabrics, Made-up Articles and Related Products, and Division 84, Articles of Apparel and Clothing Accessories are attached for the information of members of the Textile Committee. For convenience, the entire text of Divisions 65 and 84 is reproduced although it covers a wider range of products than those enumerated in Article 12 of the Textile Arrangement. This text is not therefore, intended as an interpretation of that article. 1This note has been prepared in connexion with document COM.TEX/3. COM.TEX/W/15 Page 2 Symbols and Abbreviations Used in the SITC, Rev.2 and in the Appendices n.e.s. not elsewhere specified or included BTN Brussels Nomenclature (1972 edition) SITC, Revised Statistical Papers, Series M, No. 34 * Where an existing SITC, Revised group, subgroup or item code is used, in SITC, Rev.2, to designate a new or different commodity (or set of commodities), the code is marked with an asterisk. ex part of CCC Customs Co-operation Council 00.00.00 When a BTN heading has been subdivided, the subdivisions (statistical subheadings) are distinguished by adding a period and two more digits to the 4-digit BTN code.
[Show full text]
“The Guide Through Death” and “The Fat Lady” by Guadalupe Dueñas
“The Guide through Death” and “The Fat Lady” by Guadalupe Dueñas translated by Josie Hough RT/TC 004 (2020) ISSN: 2694-2801 2 Instituto Cervantes at Harvard University (FAS) Observatorio de la lengua española y las culturas hispánicas en los Estados Unidos / Observatory of the Spanish Language and Hispanic Cultures in the United States 2 Arrow Street 4th fl., Faculty of Arts and Sciences - Harvard University. Cambridge, MA 02138 – USA http://cervantesobservatory.fas.harvard.edu [email protected] Introduction These two short stories are part of the Obras completas [Complete Works] of Guadalupe Dueñas, most recently published by Fondo de Cultura Económica in 2017. Like much of Dueñas’ work, Guía en la muerte [The Guide through Death] is written in the first person. The narrator describes a tour of the Museo de las Momias in Guanajuato, Mexico, detailing the tragic and twisted stories of different mummies in the museum, following the eponymous guide. Most have met their end because of some sort of sin or crime, and like many of Dueñas’ characters were destined for misfortune whether or not they complied with the stereotypical role expected of them. Equally, La dama gorda [The Fat Lady] tells the tale of a character who meets a tragic death because of her greed and gluttony, associating these sins with her wealth and social position. Dueñas’ work was heavily influenced by her Catholic beliefs, but her faith did not stop her writing critically of religion. Born in 1920, she did not fit the conventional role of a Catholic Mexican woman at her time, never marrying or having children, and she wrote of both matrimony and motherhood with disdain and irony.
[Show full text]
Spring 2020: Apparel Line for Girls 5-14
APPAREL LINE FOR GIRLS 5-14 FAS 205: Final presentation By: Madison Kreher Trends for Spring 2020: Graphic T-shirts, bright colors, and denim (Rechner, 2018) FASHION flowy skirts, and ruffle blouses (Weston, 2018) RESEARCH Fabrics: Pleat tulles, an addition of sheer over layers for color and dimension, jersey and woven fabric Lightweight denim, nylon woven Trends (Weston, 2018) (Rechner, 2018) (Weston, 2018) (Rechner, 2018) DEMOGRAPHICS AND PSYCHOGRAPHICS Race Age (Chart is shown in millions) 5-14 Majority of children under the age of 18, live with two parents according (US Census Bureau, 2018.) Gender Female-- 20.11 million as of 2017 (Statista, 2018.) Income Median income of families in 2017 (SEMEGA, FONTENOT, & KOLLAR, 2017) Age of householder Source: Employment Characteristics of Families, 2017 35-44 years with children Estimate: $ 783,668 • The graph gives a breakdown of the Margin of error: 1,578 ethnicity broken down within the United 45-54 years with children States by age groups. Estimate: $80, 671 • Our main focus is ages 5 --14 . Source: (Statista, 2018) Margin of error: 1,064 Family & Marital Status Religion Source: (Bureau of Labor Statistics, 2017) Source: (Gallup, Inc. 2017) The chart illustrates that there are 33,715 million total Not a big of factor in fashion at this age, even in cultures where modest dress is families that are employed and have children under the age emphasized, such restrictions are not placed on children as infants and toddlers. of 18. This is my target market as they have the disposable income to dress their children fashionable. United States population numbers by ages within my target demographic.
[Show full text]