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Clothing of Kansas Women, 1854-1870
CLOTHING OF KANSAS WOMEN 1854 - 1870 by BARBARA M. FARGO B. A., Washburn University, 1956 A MASTER'S THESIS submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree MASTER OF SCIENCE Department of Clothing, Textiles and Interior Design KANSAS STATE UNIVERSITY Manhattan, Kansas 1969 )ved by Major Professor ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The author wishes to express sincere appreciation to her adviser, Dr. Jessie A. Warden, for her assistance and guidance during the writing of this thesis. Grateful acknowledgment also is expressed to Dr. Dorothy Harrison and Mrs. Helen Brockman, members of the thesis committee. The author is indebted to the staff of the Kansas State Historical Society for their assistance. TABLE OP CONTENTS PAGE ACKNOWLEDGMENT ii INTRODUCTION AND PROCEDURE 1 REVIEW OF LITERATURE 3 CLOTHING OF KANSAS WOMEN 1854 - 1870 12 Wardrobe planning 17 Fabric used and produced in the pioneer homes 18 Style and fashion 21 Full petticoats 22 Bonnets 25 Innovations in acquisition of clothing 31 Laundry procedures 35 Overcoming obstacles to fashion 40 Fashions from 1856 44 Clothing for special occasions 59 Bridal clothes 66 SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS 72 REFERENCES 74 LIST OF PLATES PLATE PAGE 1. Bloomer dress 15 2. Pioneer woman and child's dress 24 3. Slat bonnet 30 4. Interior of a sod house 33 5. Children's clothing 37 6. A fashionable dress of 1858 42 7. Typical dress of the 1860's 47 8. Black silk dress 50 9. Cape and bonnet worn during the 1860's 53 10. Shawls 55 11. Interior of a home of the late 1860's 58 12. -
“Al-Tally” Ascension Journey from an Egyptian Folk Art to International Fashion Trend
مجمة العمارة والفنون العدد العاشر “Al-tally” ascension journey from an Egyptian folk art to international fashion trend Dr. Noha Fawzy Abdel Wahab Lecturer at fashion department -The Higher Institute of Applied Arts Introduction: Tally is a netting fabric embroidered with metal. The embroidery is done by threading wide needles with flat strips of metal about 1/8” wide. The metal may be nickel silver, copper or brass. The netting is made of cotton or linen. The fabric is also called tulle-bi-telli. The patterns formed by this metal embroidery include geometric figures as well as plants, birds, people and camels. Tally has been made in the Asyut region of Upper Egypt since the late 19th century, although the concept of metal embroidery dates to ancient Egypt, as well as other areas of the Middle East, Asia, India and Europe. A very sheer fabric is shown in Ancient Egyptian tomb paintings. The fabric was first imported to the U.S. for the 1893 Chicago. The geometric motifs were well suited to the Art Deco style of the time. Tally is generally black, white or ecru. It is found most often in the form of a shawl, but also seen in small squares, large pieces used as bed canopies and even traditional Egyptian dresses. Tally shawls were made into garments by purchasers, particularly during the 1920s. ملخص البحث: التمي ىو نوع من انواع االتطريز عمى اقمشة منسوجة ويتم ىذا النوع من التطريز عن طريق لضم ابر عريضة بخيوط معدنية مسطحة بسمك 1/8" تصنع ىذه الخيوط من النيكل او الفضة او النحاس.واﻻقمشة المستخدمة في صناعة التمي تكون مصنوعة اما من القطن او الكتان. -
Suspension Bridge Corner, Seventh and Main Streets 3 I-- ' O LL G OREGON CITY, OREGON
OREGON CITY ENTERPRISE, FRIDAY, APRIL 14, l!0o. (LflDTmOTTD On , Cheapest place in Oregon to buy Dry-goods- Clothing, Suspension Bridge Corner, Seventh and Main Sts. Boots, Shoes, Hats, Furnishing Goods, Etc., Etc. OREGON CITY, OREGON A. "WORD JUDICIOUS ' BUYERS Conccyning Spring and Summer Goods. Out special effort for the Spring Season is to TO increase the purchasing power of yof Dollar with the Greatest values ever afforded for your money." We are determined to convince the public more and more that out store is the best place to trade. We want yoar trade constantly and regularly when- ever the future finds you needing anything in out tine. Yog can always get the lowest prices for first class goods from ts Unbleached Muslin Art Denims and Cretonnes Dress Goods Notions, Etc. 36 inch wide, best LL, per yard, 5c. Art denims, 36 inch wide, per yard, 15e. Our line of dress goods for the Spring and Clark's O. N. T. spool cotton, 6 spools for 25o 36 inch wide, best Cabot W, per yard, 6y2c. Cretonnes, figured, oil finish, per yard, 8c. Summer of 1905 is a wonderful collection San silk, 2 spools for 5c. ' Twilled heavy, per yard, 10c. of elegant designs and fabrics of the newest Bone crochet hooks, 2 for 5c. Bleached Muslins and most popular fashions for the coming Knitting needles, set, 5c. season. Prices are uniformly low. Besf Eagle pins, 5c paper. Common quality, per yard, 5c. Silkoline 34 inch wide cashmere per yard 15c. Embroidery silk, 3 skeins for 10c. Medium grade, per yard, 7c. -
Demorest's Family Magazine. August 1881. Vol. 17, No. 8
NO. CXCIX. AUGUST, 1881. VOL. XVII. NO. 8. BY ELLA WHEELER ELEN and Sara Rivera, the village “ Oh, of course,” Helen replied a little I The father was a little more difficult to ■ merchant's daughters at Berryville, abashed; “ I knew that of course, but it seems reconcile. sat out on the pleasant veranda I too bad to be tied down to this little town all “ I meant you and your mother should both I one mild May afternoon. your life when there are so many larger places. | go away this summer,” he said. “ Helen was H Or rather Sara sat in a little But then you have always been here, and 1 gone half the winter, and I thought it but fair rocker, sewing. She was making a dress for | don't suppose it seems to you as it does to me. that she should stay at home and let you go her baby brother. And Helen lounged in the I I know I am spoiled for a quiet life, and I j now.” hammock with a novel. must go to the sea-shore. Badie, try and make “ Mother can go all the same,” Sara re Suddenly Helen closed her book, and spoke. papa see that a great deal depends upon it! 1 sponded. * * She could not go before the last “ Sadie dear,” she began. “ I want you to shall meet so many people, you know—my of July any way. And I do not care at all tease papa to let me go to the sea-sliore with kind of people who will all be of social benefit about a change. -
The British Linen Trade with the United States in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings Textile Society of America 1990 The British Linen Trade With The United States In The Eighteenth And Nineteenth Centuries N.B. Harte University College London Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf Part of the Art and Design Commons Harte, N.B., "The British Linen Trade With The United States In The Eighteenth And Nineteenth Centuries" (1990). Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. 605. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/605 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. -14- THE BRITISH LINEN TRADE WITH THE UNITED STATES IN THE EIGHTEENTH AND NINETEENTH CENTURIES by N.B. HARTE Department of History Pasold Research Fund University College London London School of Economics Gower Street Houghton Street London WC1E 6BT London WC2A 2AE In the eighteenth century, a great deal of linen was produced in the American colonies. Virtually every farming family spun and wove linen cloth for its own consumption. The production of linen was the most widespread industrial activity in America during the colonial period. Yet at the same time, large amounts of linen were imported from across the Atlantic into the American colonies. Linen was the most important commodity entering into the American trade. This apparently paradoxical situation reflects the importance in pre-industrial society of the production and consumption of the extensive range of types of fabrics grouped together as 'linen*. -
Filage Et Tissage (2)
FILAGE ET TISSAGE (2) LINGUA È TECNICA LEXIQUE Français-Corse Réalisé par : ANTONDUMENICU MONTI Et MARIE-CHARLES ZUCCARELLI Traduzzione inglese d'Anghjula Maria Carbuccia Spinning and weaving ADECEC CERVIONI 1980 accrochage : azzingatura, azzinghera, azzinghime / warp and woof interlinking accrocher : azzingà / to interlink (warp and woof) aiguille : acu / needle aiguillée : curata, podana, acata, acughjata / needleful alépine : aleppina / bombazine alpaga : alpagà / alpaca alun : (teinture) : alume / alum alunage : alumatura / aluming aluner : alumà amidon : su(g)u / starch anacoste : arscottu / double-milled, woollen cloth apprêt (pour les étoffes) : approntu / finishing apprêter : appruntà / to finish armoisin : ermisinu / sarcenet armure (de tissage) : armatura.- fundamentale, semplice, cumposa, fattizia, dirivata, di fantasia, alluciata, guardrata, diritta (toile), à spichjoli (en losanges), à filetti (sergé), ) spighe (chevrons) / weave - foundation, simple, combined, sham, derived, fancy, open-work, square, plain, lozenge-shaped, serge-like; chevron pattern aspe ou asple : aspa / silk winder assouplir (les chemises et draps de lin) : derozà / to supple, to smooth attacher : attaccà, appiccià, alliacciulà / to tie baignage : bagnatura, bagnime / dye-bath, soaking baigner : bagnà / to soak bain : striscia, fascia, banda / dye-bath bande : striscia, fascia, banda / strip barège : baresgiu / light woollen cloth, barege bariolage : frisgiulime / medley of colours, motley pattern barioler : frisgiulà, frisgià, framisgià / to paint or -
MAKE YOUR OWN SCRUBBIE Create Your Netting Yarn Step 1 Lay Your
MAKE YOUR OWN SCRUBBIE Create Your Netting Yarn Step 1 Lay your yard of netting (When I was doing craft sales I bought 5 yard lengths.) out on the floor or table (I use my bed or couch and pin it down.). Fold netting to make several layers into a long rectangle, as it came off the bolt. It’s still folded. Try to line up the folded edge as straight as you can. (I put a few pins in to hold the folded piece together.) Step 2 Cut strips 3 to 4 inches in width down the length of the folded rectangle, cutting perpendicular to the end of the fabric to get the longest strips. Cut from the fold out to the opposite edge. Remember it’s folded so the width of the first strip will be double when opened. Therefore cut the first strip narrower(about 1½ inches) . Your first strip (and the last one or two) will be a little irregular when you begin to use it. Your creativity will dictate how to adjust. We are not concerned about perfection here. If you are a perfectionist, buy a machine made scrubbie. If you want a two colored scrubbie cut 1½ to 2 inch strips from both colors and use both strands like one strip. (See the red and white one shown in step 5.) Step 3 Tie the ends of the strips together with a simple knot to form one continuous strip. Wind the strips into a ball if you wish. (I cut the strips as I use them.) Crochet a Simple Scrubbie Step 1 Tie the free end of the strip of nylon net into a slip knot and place the loop over a medium-sized crochet hook, size J or K, and chain four. -
Jews and Germans in Eastern Europe New Perspectives on Modern Jewish History
Jews and Germans in Eastern Europe New Perspectives on Modern Jewish History Edited by Cornelia Wilhelm Volume 8 Jews and Germans in Eastern Europe Shared and Comparative Histories Edited by Tobias Grill An electronic version of this book is freely available, thanks to the support of libra- ries working with Knowledge Unlatched. KU is a collaborative initiative designed to make high quality books Open Access. More information about the initiative can be found at www.knowledgeunlatched.org ISBN 978-3-11-048937-8 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-049248-4 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-048977-4 This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial NoDerivatives 4.0 License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Names: Grill, Tobias. Title: Jews and Germans in Eastern Europe : shared and comparative histories / edited by/herausgegeben von Tobias Grill. Description: [Berlin] : De Gruyter, [2018] | Series: New perspectives on modern Jewish history ; Band/Volume 8 | Includes bibliographical references and index. Identifiers: LCCN 2018019752 (print) | LCCN 2018019939 (ebook) | ISBN 9783110492484 (electronic Portable Document Format (pdf)) | ISBN 9783110489378 (hardback) | ISBN 9783110489774 (e-book epub) | ISBN 9783110492484 (e-book pdf) Subjects: LCSH: Jews--Europe, Eastern--History. | Germans--Europe, Eastern--History. | Yiddish language--Europe, Eastern--History. | Europe, Eastern--Ethnic relations. | BISAC: HISTORY / Jewish. | HISTORY / Europe / Eastern. Classification: LCC DS135.E82 (ebook) | LCC DS135.E82 J495 2018 (print) | DDC 947/.000431--dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2018019752 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available in the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. -
Textile Society of America Newsletter 27:2 — Fall 2015 Textile Society of America
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Newsletters Textile Society of America Fall 2015 Textile Society of America Newsletter 27:2 — Fall 2015 Textile Society of America Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews Part of the Art and Design Commons Textile Society of America, "Textile Society of America Newsletter 27:2 — Fall 2015" (2015). Textile Society of America Newsletters. 71. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews/71 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Newsletters by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. VOLUME 27. NUMBER 2. FALL, 2015 Cover Image: Collaborative work by Pat Hickman and David Bacharach, Luminaria, 2015, steel, animal membrane, 17” x 23” x 21”, photo by George Potanovic, Jr. page 27 Fall 2015 1 Newsletter Team BOARD OF DIRECTORS Roxane Shaughnessy Editor-in-Chief: Wendy Weiss (TSA Board Member/Director of External Relations) President Designer and Editor: Tali Weinberg (Executive Director) [email protected] Member News Editor: Ellyane Hutchinson (Website Coordinator) International Report: Dominique Cardon (International Advisor to the Board) Vita Plume Vice President/President Elect Editorial Assistance: Roxane Shaughnessy (TSA President) and Vita Plume (Vice President) [email protected] Elena Phipps Our Mission Past President [email protected] The Textile Society of America is a 501(c)3 nonprofit that provides an international forum for the exchange and dissemination of textile knowledge from artistic, cultural, economic, historic, Maleyne Syracuse political, social, and technical perspectives. -
Hunting Shirts and Silk Stockings: Clothing Early Cincinnati
Fall 1987 Clothing Early Cincinnati Hunting Shirts and Silk Stockings: Clothing Early Cincinnati Carolyn R. Shine play function is the more important of the two. Shakespeare, that fount of familiar quotations and universal truths, gave Polonius these words of advice for Laertes: Among the prime movers that have shaped Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy, But not expressed infancy; history, clothing should be counted as one of the most potent, rich not gaudy; For the apparel oft proclaims the man.1 although its significance to the endless ebb and flow of armed conflict tends to be obscured by the frivolities of Laertes was about to depart for the French fashion. The wool trade, for example, had roughly the same capital where, then as now, clothing was a conspicuous economic and political significance for the Late Middle indicator of social standing. It was also of enormous econo- Ages that the oil trade has today; and, closer to home, it was mic significance, giving employment to farmers, shepherds, the fur trade that opened up North America and helped weavers, spinsters, embroiderers, lace makers, tailors, button crack China's centuries long isolation. And think of the Silk makers, hosiers, hatters, merchants, sailors, and a host of others. Road. Across the Atlantic and nearly two hundred If, in general, not quite so valuable per pound years later, apparel still proclaimed the man. Although post- as gold, clothing like gold serves as a billboard on which to Revolution America was nominally a classless society, the display the image of self the individual wants to present to social identifier principle still manifested itself in the quality the world. -
Instructions and Free Patterns
Instructions and free patterns www.mybernette.com “Romantic style” project sewing instructions Frilly blouse Sizes 3434––––4242 European (4(4(4-(4 ---1212 US/6US/6----1414 UK) You'll need - 1.2m (1 3/8 yd) pink taffeta (fabric width 1.5m (5')) - 0.45m (½ yd) white tulle (fabric width 1.5m (5')) - 0.50 m (1/2 yd) pink voile (fabric width 1.5m (5')) - 1.5m (1 2/3 yd) satin ribbon, approx. 4mm (1/6") wide - Assorted sewing and embroidery threads in pink - Embroidery stabilizer for the facing - Spray adhesive - Sewing thread to match the color of the fabric - Gathering foot - Cording foot Fabric rerecommendationcommendation Taffeta or other shiny, slightly crisp fabric for the blouse. Sheer fabrics that can be gathered with the gathering foot for the frills. Good to know The decorative stitches will cause the fabric to shrink slightly, so be sure to add 2.5cm (1") seam allowance to the outer facing when cutting it out. After embellishing the facing with decorative stitching, reposition the paper pattern on the stitched fabric and trim the seam allowance to 1.5cm (5/8"). Cutting out Seam allowanceallowancess ––– When cutting out, add 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance to all edges and the hem, and 1cm (3/8") to armhole curves. Pink taffeta 2 x front 1 x back to fabric fold 2 x facing 2 x belt loops: 1.5cm x 8cm (5/8" x 3 ¼"), including seam allowance 1 x belt: 8cm x 66cm (3 ¼" x 26"), including seam allowance 2 x bias binding for armhole, cut on cross-grain: 4cm x 47cm (1 5/8" x 18 1/2") Sheer voile, taffetataffeta,,,, or tulle Tear or cut (depending on the fabric's texture) 2cm- (7/8"-) wide strips for the frill on the facing. -
The History of Fashion in France, Or, the Dress of Women from the Gallo
r\ U Ly c r ^ -=4^-^ r J^^^ y^ ^^ ^->^ THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE. 3-\MML THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE; OR. THE DRESS OF WOMEN FROM THE GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME, FROM THE FRENCH OF M. AUGUSTIN CHALLAMEL. nv Mrs. CASHEL HOEY and Mr. JOHN LILLIE. S C R I R N E R A N IJ \V K L I' O k 1 J. I»»2. LONDON : PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED, ST. John's square. —— CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. Various definitions of fashion—The grave side of its history—Quotations from the poets —Character of Frenchwomen—The refinement of their tastes and fancies — Paris the temple of fashion —The provinces ^Mdlle. Mars' yellow gown— The causes of fashion —A saying of Mme. de Girardin's —A remark of Mrs. TroUope's — The dress of actresses— Earliest theories of fashion— The Gyna;ceum of Amman First appearance of the "Journal des Dames et des Modes "—Lamesangere Other pubhcations—An anecdote concerning dolls— Plan of the History of Fashion in France CHAPTER I. THE GALLIC AND GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD. Gallic period—Woad, or the pastel—Tunics and boulgetes—"Mavors"and "Palla" — Cleanliness of the GaUic women -The froth of beer or "kourou"—The women of Marseilles; their marriage-portions — Gallo-Roman period — The Roman garment—The " stola "— Refinement of elegance—Extravagant luxury of women Artificial aids—A " vestiaire" or wardrobe-room of the period—Shoes—^Jewels and ornaments—The amber and crj'stal ball—Influence of the barbarians . -13 CHAPTER II. THE MEROVINGIAN PERIOD. Modifications in female dress after the Invasion of the Franks—Customs of the latter The Merovingians —Costumes of skins and felt ; cloaks and camlets—The coif, the veil, the skull-cap, the " guimpe," the cape—Fashionable Merovingian ladies adorn themselves with flowers — Various articles of dress— The "suint" —Young girls dress their hair without omamenis— St.