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Dictionary of Textiles by Harmuth Louis

Dictionary of Textiles by Harmuth Louis

PICTIONI\RY GIFT OF J

DICTIONARY OF

B Y

LOUIS HARMUTH EDITOR OF "WOMEN'S WEAR"

1915 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING COMPANY NEW YORK

FAIRCHILD PUBIISHING CO, Copyright 1915.

PREFACE

The tendency in modern books of a technical character undoubtedly in- clines very strongly toward encyclopedic and dictionary forms. The cry for the saving of lime calls for books in compact form with information handy at a moment's notice.

The present DICTIONARY is the result of 7'/2 years of collecting and compiling information, gained to a large extent in connection with my work on the Daily Trade Record and Women's Wear. With over 6,600 terms and definitions contained in it, this DICTIONARY is as nearly com- plete, in number of terms strictly relating to fibres and fabrics, as it is possible for a work of this kind to be.

It was my desire to present in the DICTIONARY and within as small compass as practical the largest number of terms and definitions possible, re- lating to textiles from the fibres to the finished fabrics and everything which goes into them in the course of the manufacture. An interesting part of the DIC-

TIONARY contains names of fabrics, now obsolete, with as complete a de- scription of their character as it was possible to find in various old laws, wills, lists and in the technical literature. Owing to the fact that manufacturers con- stantly have recourse to some obsolete fabric in search of new effects, details of and of such materials ought to be interesting.

While it was the intention to include textiles found in use in every country throughout the world, owing to their importance special attention was given to

French, English and German textiles. The South and Central American re- publics with their markets, which are interesting to the American importer have been covered, for the first time I believe, in this DICTIONARY.

It was thought advisable to include among the terms incorporated in this book the names of the more important chemicals and to indicate their uses in the course of and finishing, as the character of a fabric is greatly altered by the application of various chemicals in the finishing process.

394167 Although originally intended to include copyrighted names in the

DICTIONARY and although a number of them have been collected, they

Were not printed, inasmuch as a great many, especially those relating to goods, refer to fabrics of practically of identical construction and finish, and thus their presence mould have meant only unnecessary duplication. The names of a great many articles usually sold in dry goods stores, as for instance needles and , as as the names of garments and machinery, are not included in this DICTIONARY.

The terms found in the DICTIONARY are arranged in alphabetical , each term discussed independently and placed in its proper position.

The combination of the alphabetical order with grouping of the terms according to (he subject they refer to, like , , etc., as it is found in one of the latest textile dictionaries published in this country, while it affords some obvious advantage, presupposes on the part of the reader a certain knowledge of the meaning and relation of the particular Word, which is often the very knowledge sought for and so should not be taken for granted in advance.

In describing the various fibres the expression "variety" is not used in a strict botanical sense but rather as referring to the group of plants to which the fibre belongs.

In conclusion, I will add that on the general subject of textile dictionaries, it occurred to me that such a work, accompanied by actual samples of the fibres and fabrics themselves (such as are available on a commercial scale at the pres- ent), would be a most useful guide for manufacturers, importers, exporters, merchants and the student. Owing to its magnitude, such a work 'would be be- yond the capacity, both financially and physically; of any single person. It is hoped that under the auspices of some of the public libraries or museums, funds will be made available for collating a dictionary of that kind.

New York, November, 1915. LOUIS HARMUTH. BIBLIOGRAPHY

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Albee, Helen R. : Abnakee Rugs. Art and Art Manufactures. American School of Correspondence: Cyclopedia Ellwanger, W. de L.: The . of Textile Work. Fa 1 cot, P. : Traite Encyclop-edique et Methodtque

Ashenhurst, Thos. R. : Design in Textile Fabrics. de la Fabrication des Tiasus. Baines: History of the Cotton Manufacture. Felkin, Wm. : A History of the -Wrought Baker, Wm. Henry: A Dictionary of Men's Wear. and Manufacture. Balls, William Lawrence: The Cotton Plant in Fiedler, K. : Die Appretur der Bander und Lltzen. . Frauberger, Tina: Handouch der Spitzenkund. Banerjel, N. N.: Monograph on the Cotton Fab- Ganewindt, Dr. A.: Farben der Seide. rics of Bengal. Gardner, Paul: Die Merceri&atlon der Baumwolle.

Barker, Alfred F. : Analysis of Woven Fabrics. Gardner, Walter 'M. : . Barker, Alfred F. : Wool and Combing. Georgievics: Chemical of Textile Barker & Priestly: Wool Carding and Combing. . 1 Bean & McCleary: Chemistry and Practice of Gonse, Louis: I Art Japonais. (Finishing. Guertler, Max; Spinnerei und Zwirnerei. Beaumont, Roberts: Color in Woven Design. Guest, Richard; A Compendious History of the Beaumont, Roberts: and (1915). Cotton Manufacture. Beaumont, Roberts: Finishing of Textile 'Fabrics. Hannan, Wm. I.: Textile Fibers of Commerce. Beauverie, J. : Les Textiles Vegetaux. Harris, Henry T. : Monograph on the Beck, S. Win.: The Draper's Dictionary. Industry of Southern . Beeoh. Franklin: Dyeing of Woolen Fabrics. Hedrick: Cotton .. Beech, Franklin: Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics. Heermann. Paul : Dyers' Materials. Beeton. S. O.: Dictionary of Industries and Com- Heiden, Max: Handwoerterbuch der Textllkunde. merce. Herzfeld: and Textile Fabrics. Bell, T. F.: Jacquard Weaving and Designing. Heuser. . J. : Die Apparatfarberel der Baum- Bennett & Co., Frank P. : A Cotton Fabrics wolle und Wolle. Glossary. Hey 1 in, Hy. B.: . , , . Bennett & Co., Frank P.: Woolen and Worsted Holt, Rosa Belle: Rugs, Oriental and Occidental. Fabrics Glossary. Hubner, Julius: Bleaching and Dyeing. Bersch, Dr. Joseph: Lexikon der Farben-Teohnik. Huish, Marcus B. : Japan and Its Art. Bezon, M.: Dictlonnaire des Tissus. Hullebroeck, Adolphe: Defauts du Tissage. Bible. Geo. W. & Dan'l P.: Dictionary of Hummel, J. J.: Dyeing of Textile 'Fabrics. Dry Goods. Hurst: Dyeing, Printing and 'Finishing. Biechoff, James: A Comprehensive History of the Ivey, G. F. : Carding and Spinning.

Woolen and Worsted Manufactures. James. John : History of the Worsted Manufac- Black, A. & C. : Oriental . ture in England. Both, Otto: Die Bandweberei. Japanese Works of Art From the Mosle Collec- Both & Krissiep: Kalender Bandweberei, tion. IFlechterei und Posamentenfabrikation. Jefferys. T. : Collection of . Bowling, Torn : Book of Knots. Johnson, Alfred S. : Technical World Magazine. Bowman: Structure of the Cotton Fibre. Johnston, W. & A. K., Ltd.: The (Scottish Clans Bowman: Structure of the Wool Fibre. and Their . Bradbury, iFred: Calculations in Yarns and Fab- Jourdaln, M. : Old Lace. rics. Kastanek: Manual of Weave Construction. Bradbury, Fred: Carpet Manufacture. Knecht and Fotfaerglll: The Principles and Prac- Broadbent, J. T. : Cotton Manual. tice of Textile Pninting. Brooks, C. P.: Cotton, Its Uses, Varieties, Etc. Knecht. Rawson & Loe wen-thai: Manual of - Buckley, M. M. : Cone Drawing, Ing. Burnley, Jas. : History of Wool and Wool Comb- Knepsoher, Walter: Die Appretur der Seiden ing. Halbseiden und Samtgewebe. BasheM. S. W. : Chinese Art. Koch, Alex.: Moderne Stickerelen. Butterick Publishilng Co.: and Their Kretpchmer & Rohrfoach: of All Na- Stitches. tions. Carter, Herbert R. : Spinning and Twisting of Langton, M. P.: How to Know Oriental Rugs. Long Vegetable Fibres. Latlmer, C. : Carpet Making In the Punjab. Carter. H. R. : , and Year Book. Lef ebure, Ernest : and Lace. Carter, H. R. : Flax, He/mip and Jute Spinning Lapperhoff, Bernhard: Die IFlechterei. and Twisting. Lind, John W. : Handbook for Carpet Salesmen. Caulfleld. S. F. A.: The Dictionary of Needlework. Lindsay: Cotton Carding. Clark. W. A. Graham: Various Monographs. Lister, John: Manufacturing Processes of Woolen Cole, Alan: Ornament in European Silks. and Worsted.

J ,i itirs : Cole, George S. : Dictionary of Dry Goods. Logan, Maolan's Costumes of the Clans Cotton Plant, Its History, Varieties (Government of ', Printing Office, Washington, D. C.) Logan, James: Scottish Gael. Day & : Art in Needlework. Lord: Decorative and Fancy Textile Fabrics. Depierre. Joseph: Elementary Treatise on the MOLaren, W. S. Bright: Spinning Woolen and Finishing. Worsted. Despierres: HIstoire du Point d'Alencon. Mark, Gustav; Die Technik des Tischzeug Dillmont, Therese de: Encyklopaedde der Weib- Damastes.

lichen HandarbeLten. Marsohik. Samuel : Die Torsion der Game und Dodge. Ohas. Richnrrt: Descriptive Catalogue of Zwlrne. Useful Fibre Plants of the World. Matthews, J. Merritt: Laboratory Manual of Dona t. Franz : Jacquard Weberei. Dye

geschichte. Timmerman, J. F. : Woolen and Worsted Finish- Murphy, Wm. S. : The Textile Industries. ins.

: and Allied Murphy. Wm. S. Modern Townsend, Mrs. B. : Talks on Art Needlework. Trades. Umpleby, Fenwick: . Naamith: Cotton Spinning. Ure. Andrew: A Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures Nelson, Wlm. H. : Warp Preparation and Weaving. and Mines. Nelson, Wm. H. : Plain and Fancy Weaving. Verneuil, M. P. : Etoffes Japonaises, Tlssees et Neugebauer & Orendi: Handbuch der Orlen- Brochees. talischen Teppichkunde. Vickerman, Charles: Woolen Spinning. Neville, H. : Student's Handbook of Practical Vickerman, Charles: Woolen Thread. Fabric Structure. Walland, Heinrich: Kenntnlss der Wasch Blelch Nisbet, Harry: Grammar of Textile Design. und Appreturmittel. Olney, (L. A.: Textile Chemistry and Dyeing. Walton, Perry: The Story of Textiles. T Owen, Mrs. Henry: Illuminated Book on Needle- W arden. Alex J.: The Linen Trade, Ancient and work. Modern.

Palliser, Mrs. B. : History of Lace. Watson. Wm. : Textile Design and Color. Paterson, David: Color Printing of Canpet Yarns. Watson, Wm.: Advanced Textile Design. Dic- Planche, J. R. : Cyclopedia of or Watt, G. : Dictionary of Economic Products of tionary of . India. Polleyn, F. : Dressings and Finishings for Textile Watt. George: The Wild and Cultivated Cotton FaJbrics. Plants of the World. Posselt, E. A.: Textile Calculations. Wenzel, Robert: Garnberechnungen. Posselt. E. A.: Technology of Textile Design. Whitworth. Ernest: Practical Cotton Cultivation. Practical Manual oif Cloth (Finishing. Wickardt & Haarmann: Das Fachrechnen fur die Prlestman, Howard: Principles of Wool Combing. Webwaren-Fabrikation. Priestman, Howard: Principles of Woolen Spin- 'Wilkinson, Frederick: The Story of the Cotton ning. Plant. Priestman, Howard: Principles of Worsted Spin- Williams. Leonard: Textiles. ning. Witt & Lehman: Chemical Technology of Tex- Daniel: Textile Falbrics. RoCk, tile Fibers. H. : Auskunftsbuch uber morgenlandische Ropers, Woodcraft, Bennet: Brief Biographies of Inven- Teppiche. tors of for Textile Fabrics. E. : Text'book of Needlework. Roseyear, Textile RothweM: Printing of Textile iFabrics. Woodhouse & Milne: Design. Wootaian & McGowan: Textiles. Radcliffe. J. W. : The Manufacture of Woolen and Worsted Yarns. Worm, J. : Wlrkerel und Stickerei. Rawson, Gardner & Laycock: Dictionary of , Yates, James: Textrinum Antiquorum; an Ac- , Etc. count of the Art of Weaving Among the Rayner: Silk Throwing and Waste Silk Spinning. Ancients. Reiser: Faults In the Manufacture of Woolen Zeising. Hermann: Uber Schappe-Spinnerel. and Their Goods. /.ips.'r. Julius: Textile Raw Materials Into Yarns. Ricci, Elisa: Old Italian Laces. Conversion DICTIONARY OF TEXTILES

ABA ADA

Abroma Hemp Called also perennial In- dian hemp, grows in the Philippine Islands, India, etc. The fibers are used for coarse cloth and for . See devil's cotton. Absorbent Cotton Cotton is treated with hot alkaline solutions, cleaning the fibers from all fats and making them Aba 1, coarse and thick, felted woolen absorbent. Used for surgical ban- fabric, made in Hungary, of natural dages. colored gray wool, worn by the peas- 'Medium fine wool of Morocco. ants: 2, in and Arabia a Abudig of wool and cam- coarse fa'bric, made Abutilon Strong and glossy fiber yielded el's hair, made in stripes. by the abutilon species in South Abaca Native Philippine name for the America and India; used as hemp sub- (see). stitute for . Abassi Raw cotton grown in Egypt, the Acacia This tree of India and white Leucophloea staple is of good quality yields a tough and coarse bast flber, color, but not as strong as the Mitaflfl. used for ropes and nets. French for a low grade Abat-Chauvee Medieval shot with of wool. Acca gold colored silk, forming animal patterns, Abb 1, merino warp wool, being used for church in England. skirting from the breech; 2, short wool, taken from the breech and cow- Acetate of Iron Used in dyeing silk black tail of English and coarse wool, or dark shades. used mostly for warp; 3, same as in and warp. Acetic Acid Used printing dyeing. Abbotsford Light, dress faced twilled Aceytuni Medieval original name for woolen dress good having faint . pattern. Acid A very large group of syn- Abdullah Kani Striped silks made in Dyes thetic dyestuffs, obtained from the for the and Morocco Lyons Abyssinian coal including both fast and fugi- trade. tar, tive colors, which are used only on Abee Fabric made with cotton warp and wool and silk. They have all an acid woolen filling in Asia Minor. character and dye in an acid bath. Abelmoschus Fiber similar to jute called They either contain azo groups, or are rai bhenda in India. It is laugh and made by treating basic colors with does not rot in water; used for ropes. sulphuric acid or are made with nitric Abercrombie A highland , having a acid. with blue and black ground, crossed Acme Variety of raw cotton grown in double green stripes forming green Mississippi; the staple is fairly long, checks, the green stripes being split but is of inferior quality. by a white line. Acores Unbleached linen of various fine- 'Men's half made in Scot- Aberdeen ness made in France for the Dutch land of coarse gray wool. and South American trade. Abeston Incombustible flax of old Egypt, cotton from mentioned by Pliny. Acri 'Raw . Ablaque or pearl silk A very fine raw Adad Fibers yielded by the Ficaria ran- silk from Persia; does not stand warm uc?uloides, a creeper in the Marshall water. Islands; used for clothing mats by the Abnakee Rug Modern American hooked natives. rug made on a coarse and open jute Adapangia Trade name for Bengal raw burlap ground. Unbleached, all-wool, silk. twilled is dyed with vegetable dyes and cut lengthwise into strips of Adarsa A fine musldn made in India. inch width. These one-quarter striips Addatis Fine cotton are hooked through the burlap to form Adatais or from India; the best grades are from the . The patterns are bold. Bengal. Abouchouchon Low grade French wool- en for the Levant trade, originally had Adenos The best grade of Levant cotton; 1,600 ends and black and white sel- also a cotton fabric made in Syria. vage. Adhi Fine cotton muslin from India. Abougedid Unbleached cotton goods in Abyssinia, imported from various Adia Good quality of bleached cotton places. cloth imported in Abyssinia and Ara- bia for native dresses. Abrang Glazed cotton fabric made in In- dia with fine violet stripes. Adras A glossy narrow striped union silk in and Central Abrawan Next to the finest quality of the fabric, made India finished plain Dacca muslin (see). Asia; by . Abrohany Very sheer cotton muslin Adrianople French name, synony- made in India. See Mallemolles. mous with Turkey red twill. ADU ALA

Adulteration The adding of substitute Agnelin Antiquated name of Danish wool fibers or foreign materials to textiles of the same province sold in the for gain; for instance, wool adulter- Amsterdam market. ated with cotton or silk adulterated by Agneline Coarse, black, stout woolen, weighting. made with a long , thoroughly Aea 'Native Hawaiian name for cord, fulled to water; used by the made of the bark of the aleurites tree. poorer classes in Europe for winter Aeolian Lightweight material for ball clothing. made with cotton warp silk Large and very thick knotted wool weft. or cotton carpets, made in India. The Aerophane Thin, solid colored silk , colors are blue, green and browns. used as millinery and dress trimming. Agra Gauze Fine, transparent silk fab- Aetzstickerei German term for burned ric, made in ; used for embroidery. The pattern is embroid- trimming. ered in vegetable fiber on Aguilles Plain woven cotton cloth made foundation, or vice versa, in such a in Syria. manner that it will hang together like a lace after the foundation is de- Agust (Strong bast fiber of the sesbania stroyed with chemicals which do not grandiflora in southern India; used for affect the embroidering . ropes. A knitted or crocheted wool Aida Cloth for table purposes, awnings, , made with fancy colored etc., made in plain weave, the pat- tern stripes. being thrown alternately on the face and on the reverse side. Carpets made in and Afghanistan of wool or 's Aida Plain and open weave fab- hair, the medium long loose pile is ric, woven with one thread in each tied in Senna knot. The patterns are warp and filling, often also with two angular octagons, diamonds, some- threads paired without twist; made times stiff floral designs in red, brown, of linen, also cotton and wool; used blue and white. Most of these car- for embroidery. Also called Java pets have a strong odor due to im- canvas or fancy oatmeal. perfect washing of the wool. Ailanthus Wild silk of grayish or brown- Afiume A coarse grade of flax grown in ish color, produced by the Attacus Egypt. atlas in India. African Bass Very coarse, dark, stiff and Ailesham Cloth Fine linen cloth made in tough fiber, yielded by the leaf stalks England in the Middle Ages. of the palru in Africa; used Ajamis from the Levant. for brushes; also for lines by the natives. Ajiji Cotton muslin with silk stripes, made in India. African Fiber Commercial name for a fiber yielded by the leaves of the pal- Ajour French for open-work, as in metto in Algiers. Used for embroidery, knitting, etc. stuffing. Akaakai Hawaiian bulrush used for Afridi A cotton fabric made by the na- mats, baskets, etc., by the natives. tives in East India and decorated with Akaroa The wax ornaments. tree, Plagianthus betulinus, of New Zealand, yielding a After Chroming A process in dyeing, con- flexible, lustrous, strong lace-like sisting of the application of a chrome bast, used for nets, lines, etc. to a fabric already dyed. Akhissar Rugs made in Asia Minor, the After Treating A process in dyeing, con- are of wool, the loose sisting of the application of a mor- pile of , tied in Ghiordes knot. dant to a fabric dyed previously. Red and golden brown are used. A cotton fabric flne Agaric made with Akia A very tough bast fiber, used for warp loop pile, formed on wires; used ropes in Hawaii. for dresses. Aladjas Heavy with or 'Leaf fibers obtained from the va- Agave flower patterns, made in India. rious aloe and century plants; used for ropes and cords. Aladsha Fancy cotton goods, originated in the East. Ageing In the mordanting of cotton fab- rics the cloth previously saturated in Alagai Union silk fabric made in Asia solution of metallic salt is steamed, Minor. which process decomposes the mor- In the Levant trade name of dant. Alagia closely woven fancy cottons, also Agenois Unbleached linen made in and mixed with silk. around Agen. France. Antiquated name. Alagoas Brazilian raw cotton. Aggebonce A silk embroidered cotton Alagoas Lace 'Coarse, cotton , fabric, made in Syria. made in Brazil. Aggoned Bundei The best grade of East A la Grecque French name of the mean- Indian and Japanese raw silk. In Eu- der pattern. ropean markets called Tani or Tanny. Alamba North American cotton from Aglet A white lacing cord. Mobile. ALA

Alamode Plain woven glossy, light and Alencon Ground First made as bride soft silk fabric, used for scarfs, lin- and then as reseau; the bride was ings, millinery. either plain or picotee, while the bride was a six-sided , 18th century fabric in England, grande Alapeen covered with buttonhole stitches. The made of worsted or mohair and silk. reseau was worked after the pat- la French silk of dif- A Reine droguet tern to join it. ferent colored warp and filling. Alenconnes -Half-bleached linen for Alaska A mixture yarn of long staple household, made in lower cotton and carded wool. Normandy. Alatcha Yarn dyed cotton fabric, having Alepine 1, twilled cloth of soft spun silk and fine worsted made stripes on a blue ground; made in warp filling, Turkestan. in Aleppo, Syria, originally only in blaCk, later in all colors. Imitated in Albanian In cross and gob- Embroidery in hard worsted; 2, red and blue over England spun elin stitch in green, twilled fabric of English origin made canvas, showing conventionalized of silk warp and worsted filling in flowers or forms. geometrical weave, and dyed in the piece, Albarazine Spanish wool from Albaracia, usually black. Used for mourning Aragonia. wear; 3, French fabric made of silk Albatross 1, a soft, loose woven, twilled or cotton warp and soft worsted fill- dress fabric, dyed in the piece, usual- ing in single or various colors. but also of cot- ly made of worsted, Aleppo Cotton from Syria; also raw silk fine worsted ton; 2, soft exported from the city of Aleppo. about 24 inches wide, known also as satin moss and croise: used for Alexander A medieval striped silk, orig- dress goods; the socalled "snow inally said to have come from Alex- for flake" is spotted, the "Vienna" is andria, Egypt, used church vest- the heaviest make. ments. See burdalisander. Albernus Oriental woolen fabric, similar Alexandra In Austria a plain woven cot- to , imported into France ton fabric, dyed black and finished through Marseilles. with a dress face; used for linings, Alberoni Obsolete French and Holland underskirts, etc. camlet, made with silk and gold Alexandrette Syrian raw cotton. thread warp and silk or Alexandria 1, half wool, figured, wom- filling. en's dress goods; 2, Egyptian raw cot- Albert Cloth Double faced woolen over- ton, of short staple. Similar to the coating, the two sides made in dif- Smyrna cotton but contains more dirt. ferent patterns and colors. Alexandrine Old time name for fine cot- Albert Cord 'Fancy English cloth ton and linen cloths woven in Switz- in the 19th century. erland and France with fancy col- Albert Crape English dress fabric iijade ored patterns over white foundation. of silk and cotton mixture. Given a silk-like finish. Albesine A grade of wool from Spain. Alfa, Spar-to or Esparto (Stipa tenaois- Albigeois Gray, unbleached linen can- sima) Fiber of a North African grass vas, made in Languedoc, France. The fiber is coarse, stiff and luster- Albissola Italian bobbin lace having less. Used for coarse sailor clothes. small pattern. Algerian Lace A lace made of sil- Alcantara Inferior Spanish wool. ver and gold thread. Alcatifa Spanish trade name of fine Algerian Stripes Fabric having alternate Oriental rugs and carpets. stripes of coarse cotton and very Fine Persian knotted in- Alcatquen rugs fine silk, often with gold threads; is used over terwoven with gold thread, usually cream colored; used for wom- divans. en's bournouses. Closely woven ten-leaf silk Alcyonne Algerienne 'Woolen material with fancy satin drapery fabric, made with sin- colored weft stripe, used for , gle or ply warp and often with fill- curtains, awnings, etc. Originally ing of a different color from the from Algiers, now made also else- warp. where. Alencon 1, lightweight French cloth of Alhambra Bleached cotton quilt, silk and cotton; 2, French needle-point bold formed lace made with ground, the reseau made with patterns, by an extra which is heavier than resembling the Brussels pjint reseau. warp, the The is Early A., also called point -Je France, ground warp. ground woven with a resembles Venise and Spanish point. usually plain, heavy, Chief characteristic of the A. lace is slack twist filling. the cordonnet (see), usually filled Alicienne Crepe Fabric woven with al- with ; the design usually ternating smooth and crepe warp follows the taste of the period the stripes, woven usually plain. The lace was made in. warp threads in the crepe stripes are Alencon Bar Needle-point bar used to dressed on a separate beam and are fill up spaces, consists of a zig-zag delivered slack, resulting in a puck- thread covered with buttonhole ered effect. Used for counterpanes stitches. and curtains. ALL AME

All wool Originally denoted fabrics made Alpaca 1, very long, white or colored of pure wool. In commercial parlance smooth hair, yielded by the South many fabrics containing considerable American auchenia paco; 2, wool ob- proportion of cotton, or union fabrics tained from mixed cotton and woolen made with a wool face are being rags through carbonization; 3. wom- called "all wool" in the United States. en's dress goods or lining, made in plain weave with cotton warp and Allibalis, Alliabat, Allibanis Allabatis, alpaca filling, very lustrous. Names of East Indian cotton cloths, 19th made either plain, embroidered or Alpaca Luster century piece dyed brocaded. English fabric made with cotton or silk warp and alpaca filling and very high Haik Moorish cloth made with finish. equally wide stripes of nub cot- ton warp and fine silk warp of cream Alpaca Mixture 19th century undyed of silk color. Used for and bour- English fabric, made cotton or nouses. warp and alpaca filling- One of the first Allahabad Large knotted wool or cotton Alpaca Orleans alpaca fabrics made in in the 19th made with loose thick pile in England carpets woven with a cotton India. century; warp and alpaca filling. Allapine See Alapeen. Alum Used extensively as mordant for Alleanthus Very tough fiber yielded by alizarine dyes, as agent in printing the bast of the Alleanthus zeylanicus, wool with alizarine, and dyeing wool a tree in Ceylon; used for ropes, nets, with eosine, in Turkey red dyeing, etc. etc., by the natives. Aluminum Chlorate' Used in printing cot- Allegias, Allejars East Indian pure cot- ton goods with aniline black. ton made in plain weave, also , Alumnat Cloth Closely woven, black wool- mixed with silk or other fibers. Also en fabric, made in Bohemia for the Bethilles. called use of the clergy and alumni. French silk dress Allemande Corded Alwan^Fine, plain , made in goods and men's vesting:. Thibet of wool yarn. in Allen Variety of raw cotton growing Amabouk Half 'bleached coarse linen, Mississippi; the staple is fine and made in northern ; used for silky, measuring up to 35 millimeters, sailors' ; unbleached used for the lint is less than 30 per cent. bags. Allejah A fabric made with gold, green Amadaure Variety of Egyptian raw cot- and white stripes, used for dresses ton. in the 18th century. Amamee Smooth, closely woven cotton cloth from the coarser Alliabably "Fine cotton muslin from Bengal; grades Dacca, India. also called Tissuti and the finer Bissuti. Used for shirts, covers, Alligator Cloth Coarse, plain woven cot- curtains and also for printing. ton or fabric, coated with varnish jute Aman Plain blue colored cotton and finished like the alligator leather; woven, made in used for cheap suitcases and seats. fabric, Syria. Alloa Wheeling (Heavy Scotch knitting Amana Staple blue printed cotton fabric knitted woolen yarn. and goods from the com- munistic mills of Amana, la. Allover Design spread out or scattered over the entire ground. Amanouri One of the best grades of Levant cottons. Almanesque Cotton goods used in Ar- Amazon Dress woven of gentine. goods, Botany warp and woolen filling in a 2/1 warp Alneestloni Navajo blanket made in twill faced twill or five-leaf warp satin, the weave, both sides being different. nap is raised and shorn in the finish. Alni mayini Woolen blanket made by the Amazones Woo'en dress goods in South Ute Indians, made with a wide black America. stripe in the center and narrower Ambari long, light colored, stripes at each end; the corners Hemp Very trimmed with black tassels. silky ibut harsh and strong bast fiber, yielded by the Hibiscus cannabinus in Aloe The fibers of the agave, made into southern Asia. Used" for cordage, net and lace in the Philippines, Italy, coarse bagging, etc. Spain and Paraguay. Amboisienne Obsolete French silk dress Aloe Hemp Trade name for the Mauritius goods with napped stripes over taffeta hemp (see) and also for the leaf fiber foundation. of certain Indian Sansevieria species. Amens Obsolete English term for a Aloe Lace Bobbin lace, made of fine aloe species of fine worsted lasting, with yarn in Italy, Spain, etc. warp cords and fancy patterns; used in churches. See also Amiens. Alost Belgian bobbin lace, similar to the Valenciennes (see), the threads of the Americaine Corded silk French dress mesh ground being twisted four or five goods made with eight warps and times. eight picks in a repeat. AME ANG

American Cloth In England, an enameled Anacoste or Anacote Twilled French and oilcloth for household or German worsted serge having a very purposes. smooth finish, used by religious or- ders for clothing. An inferior quality for the American Jute Obsolete name made in 'Netherlands is known in fiber in the United Abutilon (see) Japan as saaij. States. Anadendron Very strong bast fiber of the Americana Name for coarse cotton sheet- A. plant in the Andaman Islands, used ing in Bulgaria and Servia. for nets and bowstrings by the Americani or Amerikano Unbleached cot- natives. ton sheetings in various parts of Analao Philippine name for a cordage Africa; originally from America, now fiber. from England. imported Ananong A Philippine cordage fiber. for cotton Americano Assilia Name gray 'Wild silk of reddish brown color, coast of Anaphe sheetings on the eastern similar to Tussah, produced by a Africa. They came originally from the genus of African gregarious moth. United States. Anatolian 1, small, all-wool rug made in dark and coarse Americano Gamti A very Asia Minor and used for ; the on the eastern gray cotton sheeting soft, long pile is tied in Ghiordes knot; India. coast of Africa. Imported from the designs and colors show a great Americano Marduff Twilled, stout gray variety; they are finished with a sel- cotton fabric in East Africa, imported vage all around and a fringe at the from the United States or Europe; ends; the socalled "big Anatolians" are used for tents, sails and dresses by of large size and have a very close and the natives. very long pile. 2, long and medium fine the caraman American Native name of gray wool, yielded by Ulayiti sheep of . The sheep has a cotton sheetings on the eastern coast very heavy, flat tail. Wool used for of Africa. Imported from Europe. carpets. Amertis woven calicoes or cotton Closely Ancelia Union dress goods of cotton goods from Patna, Bengal. thread warp and mixed wool yarn Amianthus Fine, flexible ; used filling, forming patterns. for fireproof curtains, etc. Anchali A wide ribbon, made in E*ast Amiens or Amens Closely woven twilled India. cloth of hard-twist worsted, in solid A neon Wool taken from an American colors, striped or made with patterns. bred in the 18th cen- Similar to the lastings but of better sheep, originated but now extinct. grade. Made originally in Amiens. tury, Andalusia Medium fine Spanish wool. Amilpat Name for native embroidery in In East India. Andalusian Wool England a four- strand, fine worsted yarn for knitting. Amiray Native Philippine name for the Anderson fine made in fiber; used for cords, threads Very Scotland. and fabrics. Cotton Same as Peruvian Ammonia Used as bleaching agent to- cotton. gether with peroxide and to fix aliza- Anglaise Plain colored French serge, rine dye on wool. made with eight ends and four picks Amoer 'Name of a strong silk taffeta In in a repeat. many parts of Italy. Same as gros Angleterre Highly finished silk taffeta de tours. made in France. Amole Coarse, yellow fiber, yielded by the Angleterre Bars Filling in places in mod- bulb of a lily-like plant in California; ern point laces, consisting of lines of used for stuffing. threads crossed at right angles with Amorgis Fine linen in ancient Greece, knots or spots formed by a sepa- usually dyed purple. rate thread at each crossing. Amour Linen with round or oval - Angleterre Edge A needle-point edging to like pattern for table use, made in braid or cordonnet; made with one Caen, France. Also called La.cs line of point de Bruxelles loops. d'amour. Angola 1, yarn composed of cotton and Amritsar Large size, East Indian wool wool; 2, twilled, red cotton cloth; 3, a rugs made in Persian designs with thick, soft twilled, napped woolen heavy pile. overcoating. Brocade A finished Anabasses 'Blue and white striped woolen Angola highly English covers, made in Rouen and vicinity for worsted dress goods of the 19th cen- the Senegal, Guinea and Angola trade; tury, woven in colored patterns; ob- also imitated by Holland. solete. Anacostas Fine all-worsted English dress Angola Cloth cotton of cream goods, woven in a 2-and-2 twill with a color, with rough face, used for em- weft face, as the number of picks is broidery. much higher than the number of ends. Angola Mending English yarn of mixed It is woven in gray and dyed in the wool and cotton used for piece. . ANG ARG

Angora 1, highly finished, plain weave Applique Lace dress goods of cotton thread warp and Needle-point or bobbin sprigs applied to a mohair filling-; 2, twilled machine-made overcoating ground, as for made with shaggy face of wool or instance, modern . mohair; 3, goat yielding the mohair. Appret de Laine Angora Cashmere Soft, twilled mo- French for the soft and light, permanent hair dress fabric. finish given to mercerized Italian linings, similar to the Botanv Yarn in Angora Spun France of the long, worsted Italian lining. silver fur of the gray angora rabbit. Checks It is very soft and will not Narrow cotton ; used with for knitted sporting goods. small checks in white and color- used for . Animalize Consists in treating cotton yarns with solutions of silk or other Apta Brown fiber gained from the East Indian animal fiber in order to impart to the Bausinia, used for tows, fish- cotton certain general properties of ing nets and coarse cloth. animal fibers. Arabian A curtain made of netting and Anodendron Very tough, but fine, bast edged with macrame lace. fibers of a climber (Anodendron panic- Arabian ulatum) in southern India and Crepe Silk crepe dyed in the Ceylon; piece and used for ropes. embroidered with dots. Arabian Anoncillo Fiber yielded by the bark of a Embroidery Made with floss silk in species of the sour-sap in Venezuela. very elaborate geometrical designs upon cloth or muslin Antelope Cloth Used for embroidered ground. Arabian Lace and embroidery foundation Heavy, ecru colored lace, in England. There are small pinholes made of cords knotted together in in- in the cloth placed at equal distance tricate patterns; used for curtains. from each other, through which the Arabian Stripes Coarse cotton fabric with yarn is put. blue and brown weft stripes; origi- Anterine or Anterne 18th century fabric nated in Arabia. in made England, of worsted and silk Arabias See or mohair and cotton. Arabiennes. Antherea Collective scientific name for Arabiennes Fancy colored cloth made of various wild silks of Japan, and cotton and flax in Germany for the India. South American trade. Anthistirta Stem fvber yielded by a grass Arain Indian silk taffeta, made with (Anthistiria arundinacea) in north- stripes or checks. western India, used for cordage. Arbaccio Coarse Antichlor A variety of sulphites, used to homespun, made in Sardinia, of native wool. remove bleaching powder from the fibers. Arbascio Stout brown cloth made of coarse wool or Antimony fluoride Used in place of tartar goat's hair, in Albania emetic. and Macedonia for Italy, where it is used for . Antipole Philippine fiber, used for ropes and cords. Arcazabo Silk brocade made in Lyons for Antwerp Belgian bobbin lace of bold the African trade. patterns, similar to the Malines (see). Archangelsk flaxFine Russian flax Made either of of separate sprigs con- long, soft, grayish fibers. nected with each other by brides (see) or the pattern made in one and upon Archi-imperiaU -Italian serge made for a ground. Usually plaited thread out- Tunis. lines the patterns. A characteristic Ardamu Raw silk of Ghilan, Persia. design is the socalled Potten Kant (see). Ardas Stout silk fabric from Persia. Antwerp Edge 'Needle-point edge to braid Ardasse Low grade raw silk of Persia, or cordonnet, consisting of one line manufactured in Europe into em- of open buttonhole caught with a knot broidery silk. in each loop. Ardassin Fine Persian raw silk, same as Apolda .Fine, printed wool , made Ablaque. in Germany. Apou Transparent Chinese fabric of Aredas Indian plain woven fabric made great luster, made of ramie. of a soft and lustrous vegetable fiber, a See Appenzell Fine hand embroidery, made yielded by grass. Aridas. with buttonhole stitches in Switzer- Areste A rich gold cloth woven with land. elaborate patterns and used for church Applique Broderie Perse Colored pieces vestments in medieval England. of or , representing East Indian woven silk flowers, birds, etc., are pasted on the Argaglt plain fabric. ground and outlined with stitches. Applique Broderie Suisse Design is em- Argali Long, dark gray hair yielded by broidered on white or muslin the A. sheep in , used for car- laid upon satin or silk background. pet yarns. ARC ART

Argentan lace French needle-point lace. Armure 1, French term for small pattern Early specimens called point de in pebbled or embossed effect; 2, a of dress made of France (see). The A. is similar to the great variety goods Botany wool, mohair, cotton or artifi- Alencon (see), and has the following cial silk or combinations of these characteristics: net with large ground fibers, made in a small pebbled or bolder patterns, made higher and embossed effect which is produced than the Alencon, closer (see) from warp or weft ribs. than in Alencon, and a great variety of A reversible silk rich brides the bride Armure Bosphore (see), especially armure. picotee (see), the ground is the grande bride, a six-sided mesh. Armure Cheviot An all-wool, piece dyed black cheviot, used for dresses in Lace Italian white needle- England. point, similar to the Alencon, but with flat cordonnet. The designs con- Armure Royale French silk dress goods sist of very delicate patterns spread and vesting, made with two sets of over a net ground. ply warps in different colors; 16 warps and six fillings in a repeat. Argentine Croisee Former name of twilled dress goods and men's - Armure Victoria A thin and sheer wool ing made with silk warp and cotton dress goods of dull black ground with filling, manufactured in France. delicate patterns; used for mourn- Argos Wool rug made in A., Greece. ing. Woolen blanket used in Argudan Variety of coarse raw cotton Army Blanket from China. the United States army; it is fulled and well napped and of dark gray Argouges iStout, bleached linen, formerly color. The size is 48 by 76 and 60 made in France, made originally 25 by 76 inches. Paris inches wide, of selected, hard- Cloth 1, a number of woolen and spun yarn, containing at least 1,300 Army used for soldiers' ends; obsolete. worsted fabrics ; 2, low grade gray woolen Aridas Lightweight, plain woven and fabric made in Yorkshire for the Asia solid colored East Indian silk cloth of Minor market. high luster; made originally of fibers fine East IndSan cotton of grass-like plants. Arrti iA very muslin. Arimina A long, strong, stem fiber, simi- strong fiber, yielded by lar to jute, yielded by a species of Aroosha A fairly of the Verbenaceae tree In agave in Brazil; used for ropes. a species India. Aristo Same as carpet. Arramas A medieaval brocade made of Ariyalur Fine, weft-faced silk satin, with gold and silk. weft stripes; made in East India; used Arras 1, French used for hang- for garments. worsted; ings; 2, medieval French Armazine Stout, plain colored, corded 3,white French bobbin lace, similar to black silk, used in the 16th century the Lille lace (see). It is of strong for gowns and men's waists and later and close texture with straight edge for scholastic gowns, hatbands, etc. and the mignonette (see) as the char- Armenian Lace Coarse and narrow cro- acteristic pattern. chet lace edgings. Arrasene Silk or wool chenille for em- Armiak -hair cloth made in Astra- broidery. khan, also called Biaza; used for Arrasene Embroidery Produced with . Arrasene, by either drawing it through cloth or it on the surface Armistice Cloth English worsted fabric the laying and down as in couching in orange, blue, black and other col- catching ors; now obsolete; was fashionable at (see). the end of the Boer war. Arree Bark fiber yielded by the Bauhinia racemosa in East India; used for Armoisin Obsolete, light and thin silk taffeta for lining; made in Italy ropes. and France with stripes, geometrical Arrindy Strong, raw silk of the eria silk designs or dots. Heavier a. with ribs worm in India. was made for curtains and bed covers. from the Nowadays, East India produces two Arrow Stitch So called slanting of threads forming it. Identi- kinds of a., one called damaras, with position the stem stitch (see). flower patterns, and arains, with cal with stripes or checks. Arscot 'Fine woolen serge made in Bel- gium. Armozeen Obsolete, black, French taffeta, used for dresses, mourning wear and Art Delaine Fine woolen dress goods of clergymen's clothes. the end of the 19th century.

Armstrong A Highland tartan with Art Linen Plain woven linen, made of green checks over a blue and black round, even thread, used for embroid- ground with red lines. ery. ART 10 ASI

Art Muslin In England, a fine cotton Artificial silk was invented by Count fabric dyed or printed and finished Chardonnet in 1884, who took collo- with a high gloss; used for upholstery. dion as basis; the fiber produced, however, was due to Art Serge A fine, stout worsted serge, very dangerous, its At the used in England for draping and inflammability. present table covers. time wood pulp OT cotton is used as source of cellulose for the of small or mostly Art Square Large variety artificial silk. large ingrain rugs, made square or inferior oblong, with fringe at both ends. Owing to its strength, espe- cially in a wet state, artificial silk is Artificial Cotton Made by pine shavings used mostly in fabrics where bril- being treated with caustic soda under liant effect is required, rather than pressure. durability. It is used mostly for Artificial Dyestuffs An immense variety braids, galloons and other trimmings, of dyestuffs which are not obtained silk, drapery fabrics, for in- directly from the plants or animals, sulating wires and also for gas man- for but are produced chemically; as, tles, and for pile fabrics. from the coal tar. They are instance, Cuprammonium silks are usually of late origin. mordanted, while collodion silks can Artificial Horsehair Certain grasses are be dyed directly with basic dyes. For treated for a brief period with con- viscose silk usually vat colors are centrated sulphuric acid or chloride of employed, and substantive colors are zinc, rendering the fiber very strong, good for other silks, while acid dyes elastic and similar in appearance to are used only for light shades. real horsehair. Artificial or Lace Cellulose paste, Artificial Silk 'Fiber obtained from cellu- similar to that used for artificial silk lose or other materials, through vari- is spread over a cylinder, the surface ous ways; 1, the Chardonnet process of which is engraved with the pat- dissolves cotton waste in nitric and tern of the lace or tulle, a knife re- sulphuric acids into nitro cellulose; moving the matter from the smooth this again is treated in ether, pro- surface. The paste remaining in the ducing gun cotton in liquid form, engraved parts is coagulated, the net which is pressed through small holes; is taken off the cylinder, and finished as the ether evaporates during this and dyed. pressure, a is obtained, Artificial Wool 1, wool recovered from which afterward is denitrated. 2, in rags, the fibers are spun again; 2, va- the viscose process, wood pulp is dis- rious vegetable fibers, like jute or , solved in caustic the soda, resulting are treated with chemicals to resem- salt is treated in carbon bisulphite, ble wool in looks and feel. These then dissolved in ammonia sulphate, fiibers are usually mixed with real is small holes which pressed through wool. and rinsed. 3, the glanzstoff or cup- Fleece of the wild and iram'monium process, in which cellu- Asaltus goat sheep for lose is dissolved in copper ammonium in Thibet, used . hydrate. 4, Vanduara silk made of Asan Usually a small size East Indian chemically treated gelatine, rendering with hand-knotted pile. it insoluble. Asbestos A gray mineral which by A process of decorating textile softening in hot water can be sepa- fabrics with ornamental designs uf rated into straight, lustrous fibers. artificial silk consists of printing Used for fireproof materials. It is liquid artificial silk by means of en- difficult to spin and is not dyed. Its graved rolls on the fabric, the artifi- solution is sometimes used to render cial silk drying very rapidly. textiles noncombustible. The fibers produced by means of Asbestos Lace Term for lace rendered these various chemical processes non-inflammable. intended to imitate silk their are by Aschodur Persian cotton fabric, dyed of arti- gloss. The large majority black with sumac and iron; used for ficial silk of commercial is importance garments by native women. of cellulose, and its distinguishing Cotton soft and lustrous marks from the real silk, besides the Asclepias Very the of the milk- chemical tests, are: The lack of fiber, yielded by pod used for scroop, greater brilliancy, greater in- weed; chiefly stuffing. flammability, less strength and elas- Ashmara Commercial term for weak jute ticity and greater smoothness, the last fiber from India. causing the tendency to unravel. Ashmouni Formerly a very important Artificial silk will not wash, and is variety of Egyptian cotton, has a yel- usually mixed with some other fiber. lowish brown staple over an inch The principle of the manufacture of long. Little cultivated. artificial silk commercially important Asimani Light East Indian fabric made Is in the of a cellulose so- production of silk and cotton, often made with lution. This solution is pressed zigzag stripes across. through a plate having very small holes. The solving agent is evaporated Asimode Obsolete French trousering, and the solidified fiber is wound on a made with heavy ply warp, forming reel. This fiber is subsequently ribs, and fine filling, napped on the washed, denitrated (to diminish its in- back. The face is given a smooth flammability) and dried. finish. ASP 11 AVA

Aspero Peruvian term for the native cot- Attushi A hard and rough fabric made ton: nailed in England, full rough by the Ainu women (Japan), of the Peruvian. bast fibers of the elm tree; used for clothing by the natives. Assais Strong fiber, yielded by the Assais Aubusson fine palm of Brazil; used for cordage and Very tapestry from A., France. coarse fabrics . Assam East Indian cotton, having a Aucube Wool rug made in Belgium. harsh, white staple. Au Fuseau Name for reseau ground in Assemble Doubled sohappe yarn, made laces when made on the . in France. Augsburg Checks Fine checked ginghams made in and to Assili Egyptian raw cotton. A., Germany, exported England and India. Assorcebunder The lowest of Ben- grade Augusta 17th century English gal raw silk. worsted. of the de- Assouplissage Softening Augustine Obsolete cotton and silk fabric gummed and bleached raw silk fiber made in Rouen, France. in boiling water. Aumale Coarse French serge made of in- used Astar Muslin made in Asia Minor, ferior wool; used for drapery, lining; in Turkey for turbans and underwear. obsolete. Has three grades, called dagbezd, Au Passe Also called satin stitch or long thadirbezi and churumbezi; or best, used in all kinds of em- medium and low. stitch; broidery over any ground, the thread Asteri Calico usesd for lining in Persia. being worked across the material without raised Asticotine Lightweight, fulled, French any foundation. woolen cloth; slightly elastic both Aupoz Native name in the Philippine warp and weft wise. Islands for the intermediate fibrous in the Musa used for Astoli Cotton canvas, made in Dublin layer textilie; sheer fabrics. according to a newly patented process. weaving It is waterproof and good heat insu- Auquili Coarse bagging made in Syria; lator, and does not contain rubber; it the better grades dyed blue or are comes 56 inches wide and is used for partly white and always mixed with carriage and automobile tops. cotton. Astra Work Consists of stars, which Aureate A rich silk satin of yellow color; previously have been embroidered used in England during Henry VIII; over linen, cut out and appliqued. now obsolete. Aures Sort of caddis or stout twilled Astrachan A curl-pile fabric, knitted or shorn in France as woven, made to imitate the fur of that woolen, known name. The expensive grades are fleuret. made of yarn curled before weaving Aurillac Lace A French bobbin lace, and the fabric is woven with wires, made with close patterns. raising loops, which are left intact Auriphrygium Ancient name for fabrics, or cut afterward, while the cheaper usually silks, richly embroidered with grades have the nap scratched up in gold. the The is formed with finishing. pile Auroclavum Gold tissue of the Middle mohair of slack twist. yarn Ages; used for worn by State Asu Blue, yellow and red cotton thread dignitaries. used for in India. embroidery Australian Crepe A crinkled fabric, made Atabi or Otabi Medieval dress goods of with cotton warp and worsted filling. origin, made of mixture of silk Austria A twilled silk cloth. and cotton in various colors. Automobile Tire Cloth Very strong, Atchiabanes Obsolete East Indian calico. plain woven, stout and heavy cotton fabric, made with of the Atlas 1, lightweight satin lining of silk heavy yarn for automobile face and cotton back, with a glossy longest staple. Used tires. finish; 2, in France, England, Ger- many and Austria, a very highly fin- Auvergne Lace French bobbin lace of ished silk fabric in eight-leaf satin no distinct character. weave. Used for dress fabric and Auxerre White linen bobbin lace, made lining, the latter made with cotton in France. back; originally from India. Auxonne French hemp canvas, made in Atlasgradl A linen fabric in Germany various widths, stripes or checked; and Austria, made witth five-leaf -bleached or gray. satin in linen and cotton back. stripes Auxy Fine, soft knitting wool yarn Used for bed linen. made in France and used in the fin- Attalea Wash fabric used in England for est grades of women's hosiery. trimming sailors' . Ava Cotton Grown in India, has a fair Attalia Twilled cotton cloth in India. staple. Attalic Thread made with flat gold strip Avantagee (French name for the best wound around a wool or linen core. grade of Nankin silk. Attalic Stuffs Of Asiatic origin during Avasca A coarse, durable fabric, made the Middle Ages; woven of gold thread by the natives of Peru from alpaca; mixed with other fibers. used for garments. AVE 12 BAG

Ave Maria Xarrow French peasant Back Stitch 1, in knitting, see pearl; 2, bobbin lace with plaited ground and identical with stitch (See); for very simple patterns. The edges are embroidery and Berlin wool work. made with cloth stitch. Similar to Back Stitch Embroidery Done with back the Valencienne (See). stitch, upon any foundation, in out- Avignon Light, French silk taffeta lin- line without any filling. ing. Back Washing The second scouring to Avila Spanish wool from the Province which wool (in sliver or form) A. is subjected. Avouet Persian wool from three-year- Backed Cloth A fabric with an extra old sheep; used for rugs. warp or filling or both at the back in Awassi Fine carpet wool, mostly col- order to increase the weight of the ored, from Mesopotamia. cloth. Awning A very stout and durable can- Backing Strengthening applique or vas cloth, made with bright and wide other embroidery if the materials ap- stripes. plied are not of the same strength as the foundation. Axminster 1, originally hand made pile carpets, made in England after the Bad In the Bible denotes fine linen Oriental rugs. It was made on hand fabric. ; the pile was of worsted, the Badan Khas Fine cotton muslin from warp and weft of linen; 2, woven on India. a power , but tufted by hand like an Oriental rug. The patent Ax- Baden Stout, plain woven linen fabric minster is woven entirely, chenille made in Baden, Germany. being used for filling. Baden Embroidery. Applique work, the Ayrishke A Japanese silk brocade with patterns, which are leaves and flow- flower patterns. ers, often painted, are cut out, sewn on a foundation of a col- 'Fine twilled woolen blanket contrasting Ayrshire the worked around with made in England. or, edges chain stitch and the veins with her- Azamgar East Indian fabric, made of ringbone or feather stitch. cotton and silk in satin weave. Baden Hemp Superior grade of hemp, Azara or Azera Fine East Indian mus- stripped by hand. lin. Baden Lace Good quality of bobbin lace Sheer East Indian with Azazul muslin, made by peasant women in Baden, warp stripes of wild silk. Germany. Azo Colors 'Artificial dyestuffs, insoluble In water; they are developed directly Badlan East Indian embroidery, execu- ted flat or silver wire. on the fiber; used on cotton. with gold Azores 'Loosely woven, thick, long Badotlizhi Navajo made with a haired woolens. black center and two blue borders; formerly used for shawls by the na- tive women, now obsolete. Baeta Under this name was known in Spain and Portugal an imported, B plain woven, loose, woolen fabric, napped on one side.

Baffeta 1, plain woven bleached or blue cotton fabric in the African and East Babci Sort of white hemp fiber Indian trade; 2, East Indian plain from Yucatan. and closely woven cotton fabric; for- to and in Eu- Flannel Bleached, lightweight merly exported printed Baby Now largely cali- soft wool flannel of plain weave; . displaced by etc. See Bafta. used for children's underwear. coes, Baby Irish Fine, narrow and flat Irish Baft See Bafta. crochet lace. Baft Ribbon Consists of threads being Baby Lace Narrow lace used for trim- glued together to form a flat tape ming babies' ; originally an Eng- without any weft. lish pillow lace, also called English Bafta or Baftah 1, native name in East Lille. Africa for white cotton shirting or Baby Ribbon The narrowest , bleached cotton , made with silk in blue or color. usually pale pink a heavy size, imported from Eng- Baccaba Very strong leaf fiber, yielded land; used for shirts, bed covers, etc.; by the Turu palm in Brazil; used for 2, mixed cotton and silk cloth made ropes. in India; 3, a variety of dyed cotton Back The reverse side or wrong side of fabrics imported in the African mar- a fabric. See Tapestry Back and kets. Rug Back. Baftowa A very fine East Indian cotton Back Filling Set of weft threads, form- muslin. ing the back of many modern wors- Bag Strapping Very broad stay tape; ted cloths. It is used to give weight used in England by upholsterers to to the fabric. preserve . BAG 13 BAL

Bagasse Waste, obtained from the sisal Balassoi East Indian fabric, made of m scraping the pulp from the leaf bast fibers of a tree. fibers. Balastei A gold tissue, made in Vienna and for Bagdad Wool Mostly dark carpet wool used trimmings. from Mesopotamia. Balbriggan Originally fine full fash- Bagdalin Cotton fabric woven in fancy ioned hosiery and later knit under- colors in Persian style; now obsolete. wear made first in Ireland from un- bleached cotton without any nap. At Coarse, plain woven jute fab- Bagging the present all kinds of flat under- ric, made with taped or double warp wear, knitted of Egyptian cotton or and heavy filling; it is used as it resemble it. comes from the loom. The socalled dyed to cotton bagging is usually 32 oz. per Baldacs Rich gold brocaded silks im- yard, 44 inches wide, and made of ported in the Middle Ages from Bag- jute butts. dad and , also made in Baghaitloni Xavajo blankets with a slit Italy. in made in a the center, large variety Baldachin, Baudekin, Baldaquin, or Bod- of patterns. kin Rich medieval silk fabrics, Bagnos Obsolete name for (See). originally from Bagdad, made with silk and often Baguette See Bayette. warp gold filling, studded with precious stones; used from the West Bahama 1, cotton Indies; for church vestments, state occa- a of Texas cot- 2, commercial variety sions, etc. Later they were made ton, the 23-26 mil- staple measuring only of silk, dyed crimson. limeters, growing in large bolls, yielding one-third of lint. Bale A square or round package, into which the wool or cotton Bahia Brazilian cotton, having a fairly ginned fibers are differ in strong but harsh and wiry staple. compressed. They size, weight and form. The Ameri- Bahia Fibei Commercial grade of the can cotton bale is square, 54 inches piassaba (See). long, and 27 inches wide, the average Bahmia Raw cotton having a fine sta- weight being 500 pounds, is covered ple; formerly grown in Egypt, but with bagging and fastened with ties. now little cultivated. The Peruvian bale weighs about 200 pounds. The average weight of the twilled woolen from Fland- Baigues 1, Egyptian bale is 700 pounds. See also ers, obsolete; 2, see Bayette. "Bessonette" and "Lowry." Bailey Variety of upland cotton, grown Balicnong In the Philippines a fiber is con- in North Carolina; the staple used for cordage. sidered of very good quality, measur- ing from 28 to 32 millimeters, the lint Baline Plain woven, coarse fabric, made being less than 30 per cent. of jute, hemp or cotton; used for bagging, stiffening for garments, or Turkish cotton. Baindix Sort of for upholstery. A coarse , made in Bel- Baique Baliziei Coarse, medium, strong leaf gium. 'fiber, yielded by the Heliconia Bairaiti Variety of fine raw cotton from in tropical America. Bengal, East India; used for Dacca muslins. Balk Back A fabric with a soft back, left unshorn. Baird A Highland tartan, composed of Ball or are blue and black stripes, narrower Knitting cottons, silks, often made in ball or green stripes and bright red lines. up egg shape. Ballanca Cloth made in Austria of Baize Coarse, loosely and plain woven black wool mixed with hair. woolen flannel with long nap; used goat's for lining, bags, etc., dyed usually Ballanges French dress goods, similar obsolete. red; to bellings (see) ; now obsolete. Bajota Coarse bleached cotton fabric; Balleta A woolen fabric made formerly formerly sold by the Holland-East in Turkey and dyed red. Indian Trading Co. Balloon Fabrics Very strong, closely Bakhshis Rugs Persian rug of cotton woven, fine and light fabrics, made of warp and weft, the loose coarse wool silk, cotton, etc., in plain weave in pile being tied in Ghiordes knot. equal number of warps and wefts rubberized, or otherwise made im- Bakrabadi soft and colored Very pale several Indian permeable by cementing jute. thicknesses together; used for balloon Oriental hand knotted carpet, covers and aeroplanes. made of wool. Balloon Net Machine made net; used Balanced The warp and weft threads for lace foundation, similar to the are balanced when they are of equal net used on balloons. thickness and of equal number in an Ballymena A sort of . inch. Ballushar East Indian silk fabric. Balao Sort of raw cotton from Brazil. Balmoral 'Heavy and very strong wool- Balasse Stout, plain woven cotton fab- en fabric made in red, blue, and black ric from Surat. stripes. BAL 14 BAR

Balsa Silky, yellowish seed hair of the Bangalore Hand woven woolen rug, Bombax 'tree in Central America. made in India, with a knotted pile.

Balzarine or Balzorine 1, French name Mats made of the leaves of the for light calicoes and muslins printed buri -palm, the .pandang or a sedge, with outremer blue; 2, French dress called tikug, by the natives of the goods, made with grege or organzine Philippines. heavier woolen filling, warp and Bankukri Raw cotton grown in Raj- cross ribs in alternating forming putana, India; the staple is and often long dark and light colors; printed; silky. obsolete. Banner Cloth In England a grade of Bamia 1, variety of Egyptian cotton, plain woven strong cotton cloth; of infe- having a light brown staple used for flags. Sometimes bunting is rior strength; 2, a strong, lustrous known under this name. white stem fiber of good quality Bannockburn Originally a Scotch yielded by the wild okra in Sudan; ; a soft, slightly napped, used for ropes by the natives. twilled woolen fabric, made of chev- falbric Banaati 1, East Indian woolen iot wool, having double-and-twist bleached made with a dress face; 2, warp and single filling; used for cotton fabric from East India; obso- coats, suits, etc. lete. Banos Native name for fiber used for from Banana Fiber is obtained in India ropes and cords in the Philippines. by steaming the one-year-old plants Bantine Raw silk from Genoa. unrolled stalk and scraping off the outer skin. The fibers are pounded Bantis Cotton cloth in Sierra Leone. (wrapped up in a cloth) and cleaned. Banuacalao Native name for fiber used They are very durable and said to be for ropes and cords in the Philip- excellent for fabrics intended for pines. tropical wear. Baobab A large tree in Africa and in- Bananeiras Strong and fairly flexible dia, yielding very strong bast fibers; fiber, yielded by the young leaf stalks used for cord and bagging in Africa of a palm in Brazil; used for cord- and for saddles in India. age. Lowest of cotton Same as Ran Baquiers grade yarn Banbhendi (see). from Smyrna. Woolen plush, made Banbury Bar the of the buttonhole with with cotton warp and wool pile used 1, edging buttonhole stitches to its for upholstery in England. prevent torn; 2, in needle laces or being Bancal or Banker Tapestry of green the threads connecting the various blue color in medieval England. solid parts of the lace, made of two Bancroft Commercial variety of cotton or more strands and being either from Alabama and , the fiber corded or covered with buttonhole measuring 20-25 millimeters, growing stitches. Also called bride, coxcomb, 30-32 in medium large bolls, yielding pearl, le.sr, and tie (see all). Bars are per cent lint; it matures late. Also also parts of pillow and macrame called Herlong. laces. Band Work (Similar to filling, jours, Baracan, Bouracan, Berkan, or Perkan in needle laces modes (see all) ; used Closely woven heavy cloth used for to fill the centers with fancy open furniture cover or drapery, made of stitches. doubled and hard twist worsted yarn Bandage A narrow strip of cotton or warp and three or six -ply, hard twist linen fabric, plain and loosely woven; worsted filling and finished with used by surgeons. effect. It has warp ribs. Bandala Native name for the harder Baracan French term for and stronger outer fiber of the Musa baracan (see), with a heavier weft textilis, in the Philippine Islands; than warp. used for cordage. Baracanee 'French term for warp colored fabrics. Bandana 1, printing producing light col- ribbed, plain ored designs over a dark foundation Baracani Fabric made of mohair in by destroying the dyes through Italy during the Middle Ages. bleaching agents; 2, cotton fabrics Baras Coarse bagging made in Bo- having white or bright colored spots hemia. on a red or dark ground; used as of silk and cloth made of the Dress goods warp handkerchiefs; 3, worsted with a or lustrous fibers of various East In- filling diaper-like broken rib effect. Also made dian having pale yellow pat- warp plants, cotton and silk in terns over a dark foundation. with warp filling small brocaded diagonal Banderoles Bolting cloth. spots, stripes, etc. In England it is made Bandhor made in Asia Minor of Rugs with silk warp and worsted filling, in thick wool and cotton; the very pile an eleven leaf, broken weft rib, knot. is tied in Ghiordes which hides the warp entirely, for Bandura-wel Very pliable cord made of cheaper grades cotton warn is used. the stem of the pitcher plant in Cey- Barawazi Cotton cloth woven with dark lon. blue, yellow and red checks, the bor- Bandy Striped cotton fabric in West der is in checks of red, black and yel- Africa, made of waste cotton. low; used in East Africa. BAR 15 BAS

Native name for fiber used for Barbadoes West Indian raw cotton. Baroy ropes and cords in the Philippines. Holland camlet made Barcan Obsolete Fine French dress goods and with a three-ply warp composed of one Barpours men's suiting; made of organzine strand of silk and two strands of and very fine wool filling in and three or more ply of warp goat hair, serge or brocaded weave; usually dyed wool yarn as filling, forming angora black, and worn for mourning. cross ribs. Barracan Coarse, thick, strong cloth, Barcelona Raw cotton from Colombia. used as made somewhat resembling camlet; Barcelona Handkerchiefs Originally coating and cloaking; now made with are in Spain, now in England. They silk and wool warp and angora or of fine twilled silk in plain colors, other goat hair weft, forming warp checks and fancy patterns. ribs. See Baracan. needle- Barcelona Lace Stitch in old Barrage Figured table linen, made in effects point, producing checkerboard France, in three qualities. with buttonhole stitches. Barragon or Sort of strong cot- Barchent A stout, twilled cotton fabric, ton fustian of coarse quality, twilled usually napped on the back, bleached, and shorn; used for men's working dyed or printed. Used in Germany, clothes. and Austria for heavy under- Turkey In South America a closely and also cheap dresses. Barragones wear, lining woven twilled cotton trousering with of Barclay A Highland tartan, composed narrow stripes; made in black or alternate blue and green stripes and bleached. crossed by red lines. Barrangan Woolen cloth used in the Bareface Fabrics without any nap. Middle Ages. French Barege 1, originally a light, Barras Coarse, plain woven linen; used in the or homespun, dyed yarn print- for bags. ed, made of fine, hard twist worsted Barratee Silk cloth, being a variety of warp and filling, producing a crepe- the barathea. like effect. Later made with silk or bars or cotton warp. It is a ; used Barre -French for fabrics having for dresses, etc. 2, now a lightweight stripes running weftwise. dress goods woven like gauze, with Barred Witch Stitch Same as plaited fine silk warp and worsted filling; stitch. called also woolen and woolen gauze Short, silky fiber, yielded by shawl made in France Barrigudo . 3, the pod of the Bombax ventricosa, in of and worsted filling. organzine warp Brazil; used for stuffing. Yarn used Barege .Fine, hand-spun yarn; Barroches Fine, unbleached East Indian for fine or . very gauze cotton cloth; sort of bafta. Barfoul cotton fabric in the West A A flaw in the fabric, showing bars African used for Barry trade; garments. in the direction of the warp or the Bargarran Thread Hand-spun, bleached weft. linen made in the 18th thread, century Barutine Inferior silk fabric, made in in Bargarran, Renfrewshire, by Lady Persia. Bargarran and her daughters. French twilled woolen fabric, East Indian fabric made Basane Barhak A stout made with a shaggy face. of . Bashofu and white fabric, Lowest of Very light Barhana grade Smyrna rug; woven from the leaf fibers of the made in Ushak. banana tree in Japan; used for sum- Bariga An East Indian silk fabric, for- mer . merly exported to Holland; now ob- Artificial dyestuffs obtained solete. Basic Colors from the coal tar, yielding brilliant Native name for fiber used for Barinas colors, quite fast to washing, but fugi- cords in the ropes and Philippines. tive in light. They are all derived Barleycorn Name for a small, reversed from substituted ammonia and are weave or for a weave similar to the neutralized by acids, forming salts; mat weave. they are mostly used for cotton. Braid made of odd number Barmen Lace Basin 1, a white twilled cotton cloth, sim- of yarns. ilar to , made with or without Barnes A commercial variety of late- narrow stripes, sometimes napped on maturing American cotton of medium one side; used for vests; 2, a French long staple. fabric, originated in the 16th century, or cotton mixed linen, or Barnett A commercial variety of cotton made of pure in a from Alabama; the medium late ma- hemp warp and cotton filling turing staple measures 23-25 milli- twill weave. White fine , meters, forming medium size bolls, Basin Royal striped, of linen. yielding 30-32 per cent lint. made pure two sets Barnsley Narrow crash used for Basine Silk fabric, made with towels. of fine warps, floating over every two and interlaced with the third. Barnsley Linen Fine gray or bleached fillings linen cloth; used for embroidery. Basinetto Waste silk, obtained from the inner skin of the cocoon, which Barn-tine Levant silk; used for trame hard and braids. was left over after the reeling. BAS 16 BAU

Basket Braid A soutache braid, made Batavia 1, French term for a twill weave with five threads, each thread passing forming diagonals; 2, serge made at alternately under and over two least with four harnesses. threads. Batchpath Commercial term for imma- Basket Cloth or Connaught Cotton cloth, ture jute fiber from India. similar to the Aida canvas (see); used Bates Two commercial varieties of cot- as foundation for embroidery. ton from South Carolina, the staple Basket Lace 'Medieval English lace of un- measuring 24-27 millimeters and known make. yielding about 33 per cent lint. Basket Stitch In embroidery, similar to Bath Brussels Lace Name given to the couching; produced by laying cords Devonshire lace (see) in the 18th upon the foundation and stitching century. them over to imitate the construction Bath baize of great width of the basket. Coating Light and long nap, comes in white or col- two or Basket Weave Made by crossing ored; used for petticoats, bath robes, more warps and fillings each time; , etc. same as hopsack weave. Javanese process of resist dyeing woven fine linen or cot- Basmas Closely cotton, consisting of pouring molten ton in cloth, Turkey. wax over the proposed patterns, then Bass Fiber Very strong, straight, coarse dye the cloth, after which the wax is and smooth fiber, yielded by the removed. The waxed patterns will not raphia in West Africa; used for take the dye. Usually blue, brown brushes. and orange colors are used. Lisse French term for low or hori- Basse or Cambric 1, the finest grade of zontal warp in tapestry work. linen, woven plain in the gray, then Bassinas, also Pelettes and Tetelettes bleached; there are several grades as The interior skin of the cocoon left the batiste claire, which is very light after the reeling; used for floret or and loosely woven, the batiste demi- waste silk. claire is of stronger yarn and closer Bassine Trade name for the harsh and texture; the batiste hollandee is close- with a the batiste wiry leaf fiber yielded by the Palmyra ly woven body; the Scotch palm of India; used for brushes. linen is still stronger; batiste is a fine, printed cotton dress Bassines French term for taffeta rib- 'goods. 2, white or colored cotton mus- bons. lin, finished with a heavy size; used Bast Long, strong fiber contained be- for summer dresses, linings, etc. tween the outer bark and the inner Batiste made over core of various plants and Embroidery Formerly woody batiste in imitation of laces. trees, as' the jute, hemp, flax, ramie, linden, etc. Batnas Three-colored calico, in India. Bastancini Fine, sheer and bleached Baton Rompu French, plain serge, made linen, finished with stiffener and with eight warps and four picks in a bluing. repeat. Bastard 1, general term for substitute; Batswing Thick, coarse cloth, woven in 2, a woolen fabric made in England gray into the shape of a seamless pet- during the reign of Richard III. ticoat. Bastard Aloe Strong, leaf fiber yielded by Battenberg Braid Cotton or linen tape the Aloe vivipara in Northwestern with picot edge; used for laces and India; used for ropes. curtains. Bastard Is placed between the Patterns formed with velvet and plush as to fineness and narrow tape, jointed together with va- length of pile. rious brides. Basting Cotton Cotton thread, used for Batting Slightly matted layers of raw 'basting; is similar to sewing cotton cotton or wool; used for stuffing. that it is weaker and is not except Battlemented In a finished as embroidery, pattern smoothly. similar to the battlement of the old Basto East Indian name for heavily sized' fortresses. bleached cotton shirting or bleached Batuz 1, needlework consisting of sewing long cloth, imported from England; upon silk as a part of the pattern to used for shirts, caps, bed covers, etc. be made, very thin plates of gold or Basuto A commercial grade of South silver, these plates often being ham- African mohair. mered into low relief, now obsolete; 2, medieval French silk fabrics, orna- Bataloni Of hemp warp and cotton filling, mented with hammered leaves. usually dyed light blue; known in the gold

Levant trade. , Baudekin See Baldachin. Batanores -Linen fabric imported in Bauge A stout, thick, twilled fabric, sim- Egypt; used for garments, etc. ilar to droguet. made of coarse wool in southern France. Batarde 1, black wool exported through Aleppo; substitute for vicuna wool; Bauhinia Bast fiber of various East 2, solid colored French serge made Indian trees; dark reddish brown, very with 10 warps and five picks in a strong; used for ropes, nets and coarse repeat. cloth BAU 17 BED

Baupers 17th century English worsted Bayko A yarn or thread having a core fabric. impregnated with a smooth metallic coating in any color; used for weav- Bave The natural silk fiber as it is pro- ing, knitting, embroidery, etc. duced by the silkworm; it contains two single filaments, called brins, en- Bayutapaux In the African trade, a cased in natural gum or sericin. coarse cotton cloth with blue and white or red and white stripes. Bavella Waste or floret silk. Bays Coarse English worsted and woolen to Bayes 1, from the 16th 18th fabric worn Bay, made by the peasants in Queen centuries, a fabric in England Elizabeth's time. See Bay. and woolen filling, of worsted warp Bazac often mixed with silk, made for Evenly spun, fine, bleached cotton yarn from Palestine. clothes by religious societies; 2, a loosely woven, plain woolen cloth, Beach Cloth Very light fabric, made similar to a coarse flannel, naoped on usually with cotton warp and mohair one side and made usually in white, filling in colors and designs; used for black, red or green; it is called baigue men's wear in summer. in France. See also boy. Bead In Irish mill parlance, flaw in flax Bay State Shawl A twilled woolen shawl yarn, caused by hard fibers which having plaid patterns; made in could not be drawn out. Masschusetts in the 19th century. Bead Yarn In England, yarn ornament- ed with small 1, alternate bright colored drops of gelatine or stripes running woftwise in the fab- beads. silk; 2, French dress ric, usually Beading 1, on pillow lace, a simple head- of silk and cotton filling, goods warp ing; 2, narrow, machine-made inser- weft woven with stripes, plain. tions, made with openwork, to draw or bead Plain and loosely woven wool fab- a ribbon through or for trim- Bayes ming. ric, napped on one side, made in Eng- obsolete. See Bear Grass land; Bay. Coarse and very strong fiber, woolen, yielded by the Yucca fllamentosa; Bayeta 1, coarse, homespun used for twine and usually dyed in the piece in red, blue cordage. or green, and napped; used for Bearskin A heavy, thick, twilled woolen , etc., by the natives of Peru overcoating with a thick, shaggy face and Bolivia. 2, fulled woolen fabric, nap. usually black, navy or dark green; Beatrice A weft twill weave, made 4-1. used for skirts in Colombia. 3, scar- Beau Ideal let woolen blamket, woven by the Narrow strips of machine- Navajo Indians, of single strand wool made imitation of English embroid- obtained from baize by unraveling it; ery. there is a on the blanket. nap Beaujeu .French hemp canvas, about 27 Bayeta de Cien Hilos Wool flannel in the inches wide; used for furniture cover. Latin American markets, having a Beaujolais Cloth of cotton and linen, very long nap and twill weave; the made in France. wide used to have four blue stripes on white foundation. Beaufort Stout hemp , made in France. Bayeta de Faxuela Coarse woolen baize in Peru, dyed red, blue and green; Beaupers A woolen fabric of unknown used for ponchos, etc. structure, mentioned in 17th Century English writings. Bayeta de Pellon Coarse wool flannel woven like a serge, having a very Beaver 1, heavy woolen overcoating, wov- long nap; used in Latin America and en with hard spun warp and two sets China for bed covers, etc. of filling. The face is napped and laid down and closely shorn, the back Bayetones Ingleses Latin American ie napped; 2, silk plush for with name for English woolen coatings. pressed down pile; 3, heavy double Bayette or Baguette White or black, faced cotton cloth, made with fine, loosely woven, plain, woolen fabric, hard twist warp and coarse slack twist similar to a coarse flannel, napped filling; the cloth is napped strongly on one side; made in France, Eng- on both sides, dented lengthwise. Is land, etc. In France also called often printed. baigue. See also Bay. Beaver Shawl Reversible twilled woolen Bayeux Lace Closely resembles the shawl, made stout and heavy. Chantilly (see). In the 18th centurv first silk laces were made here in ecru Beaverteen A lighter grade of moleskin and then in white. (see); it is dyed in the piece or .print- ed to resemble worsted and napped A piece of linen, 214 on the back; used for men's wear. feet long and 20 inches wide, contain Bebe iSee baby ribbon. ing in 72 groups the representation in colored wool embroidery of the events Beby Cotton scarfs, usually dyed blue, of the Norman invasion of England. made in Syria. Presumably embroidered by Matilda, Bed iLong and usually very wide medie- wife of William the Conqueror. It val English , made with four was discovered in Bayeux in 1728. harness twill. BED 18 BEL

Bed Lace Sort of binding in England, Bejuco Tough, very dark colored and made of white cotton, twilled or fig- coarse fiber, obtained from the bark ured, employed for binding dimities. of a creeper in South America; used Used also for furniture, when it is for heavy cordage. printed. Beldia Very heavy shrinking, coarse Bed of Worsted Obsolete English wors- wool of Morocco. ted, similar to say; used for curtains, Beledin 1, sort of raw silk from the hangings, etc. Levant; 2, inferior grade of cotton Bedford Cloth Drab colored ribbed cloth yarn from the Levant. of great strength. It is a kind of rus- Belelac or Belelais Sort of East Indian sel cord (see), of all wool; used as silk taffeta. dress goods. Belesmes Coarse hemp canvas, made in Stout, heavy cotton or 'France, used as ticking. woolen fabric woven with raised cord Belgamire 'Linen with flower patterns of or ridge effect running warp wise, silk, formerly made at Rouen. often raised with a wadding warp. The warp is single or ply yarn while the Belgian Laces Include Antwerp, Brus- filling is usually single yarn. The fab- sels, Malines and Valencienne laces, ric is similar in appearance to pique; all pillow, except the modern Brus- used for dresses, skirts, sporting cos- sels pointgaze. At the present the tumes, etc. It is dyed in the piece. grounds are machine made and the patterns or twigs on the pillow. 'English bobbin lace, introduced in the 17th Century. It is Belgian Tapestry English jute drapery similar to the L/ille lace (see) made with an admixture of linen. reseau and wavy, geomet- with ground Belgian Ticking Stout linen and cotton rical patterns. fabric with satin face. Used for up- Bedstout Striped or solid colored stout holstery and . in four-leaved twill. cotton, woven Belgrade Braid Open work flat braid, Called also inlet. made of cotton yarn, sized and glazed Beer An arbitrary but customary number to imitate straw braid; used for mil- of threads (in Leeds 38, in Bradford linery. 40 threads), which is taken in Eng- Patterns of ends Belgravian Embroidery land as unit to express the war,p leaves are traced on a broad braid, of a fabric. filled in with bugles sewn with floss Beetling A finishing process for cotton silk, then the braid ie cut around the and linen fabrics, consisting of ham- edges of the leaves. around an mering the fabric wound Bel inge Stout, twilled (French suiting, iron cylinder, producing a linen finish. made with linen warp and woolen Begasse Trade term for the short, waste .filling. fibers out away from the sisal hemp Bell -Isles 'Eighteenth century woolen during the scraping. fabric in England. a Beggars' Lace Sort of braid lace, Bellacosa JBrocaded silk cloth, interwoven species of coarse torchon and other with gold and silver threads, made in bobbin laces, made at Gueuse, France; imitation of the old Venetian bro- now obsolete. cades. Beggars' Velvet, also de Gueux Bellchester Sort of English velvet. A Lyons velvet of linen warp and Belle Creole

Bei bazar 'Second grade of the goat hair Belting 1, narrow, very stout warp-face from Asia Minor. fabric, woven plain or in satin weave, made of cotton or hemp, also hair, 1, natural color, as of wool; 2, Beige used at the waistline in skirts, waists French serge, woven in Poitou, and other it comes usually France; of natural black, brown or garments; black, white or gray; 2, a narrow elas- gray wool; 3, worsted or cotton dress tic made of cotton, wool or goods, made in twill or plain weave fabric, often ornamented with woven fig- in a mottled gray effect which is pro- silk, used for dress belts; 3, a very duced either the yarns being ures, by ply and fabric of cotton, spun of black and white or gray and heavy strong or linen, used for power trans- white strands, or by printing the yarn hemp mission. in the sliver. Beluchistan 'Heavy rugs made of wool, colored thin wors- Beige Damas Natural and camel's hair, the long pile dress made with Jacquard goat's ted goods is tied in Senna knot. The design con- figures. sists of geometrical figures, angular Beige Yarn Spun of a mixture of vari- hooks, etc., in rich, dull reds, browns, ous natural colored wool. blues mixed with a little white. cork- Beilik A coarse Turkish woolen or cotton Belwarp .English worsteds with . screw patterns. BEL 19 BIA

Belzamire See Belgamire. Berlin Wool Yarn for knitting and em- Bembergizing A German process for de- broidery on open or coarse canvas, veloping a high lustre on wool. The made of fine merino wool in single worsted yarn is treated in a bath of and double yarn. bisulphate of soda at a high tempera- Berlin Work Embroidery in wool over ture under mechanical tension to pre- open canvas or perforated Berlin pat- vent shrinking. The yarn is then boiled terns with flower, bird or landscape for an hour in a weak mineral acid designs. Originally cross, under relaxing tension and rinsed in tapestry satin and stitches were water. It produces a high lustre and used. of the a considerable elongation yarn, Berluche See Breluche. said to be one-third. Berne Embroidery In white or Ben Smith A commercial variety of cot- gold beads or silver and gold wire ton from Louisiana; the staple, ma- upon black velvet in small, detached in medium time, measures 23- sprays turing of conventional flowers and leaves. 26 millimeters, forming medium size bolls; the yield of lint is about 33 per Berupate See Berampaat. cent. Besooty Sort of East Indian cotton mus- Benares 'Sort of East Indian silver tis- lin; now obsolete. sue. Bessonette Improved system of baling Benares Work Embroidery in colored cotton. The ginned fibers are pressed silk and gold and silver on velvet into a continuous sheet and wound ground. around a core, producing a cylindrical Bender General trade name for cotton bale of 22 inches diameter and 34 or 48 inches The grown along the Mississippi, Arkansas long. weight of the bales is 275 and 425 accord- and the White rivers; the staple has pounds, to the No ties are a body, measuring from 1% to ing length. used, good the bale covered with 1 3-16 inches in length. being bagging. Betinada and Bend era Native East African name for Strong durable bast fiber yielded by the Melochia arborea in plain woven or twilled cotton fabrics, the Andaman used for dyed deep red. Used for flags. Islands; fish- ing nets. East Indian cotton having a Bengal 1, Bethilles East strong, harsh staple of dull golden Indian, loosely woven cot- ton cloth, with white or white color; is very dirty; 2, thin cloth of stripes window See silk and hair, originally from B., India. plaids. Allegias. Bengal Linen A lustrous East Indian Bet i lies It is similar to an open texture cloth, woven from the fibers of the Swiss muslin; used for waists, etc., bolls of a native plant. in the Philippines. They come plain, striped, checked or Bengal Stripes Stout cotton fabric hav- figured. ing alternate narrow, yarn-dyed blue Bezane In France, various bleached, and white warp stripes; used for striped or dyed Bengal cottons and dresses, aprons, etc. Also made of calicoes. cotton and wool. Bezetta See Nacarat 2. Lightweight dress goods, Bhabui leaf fiber th woven with silk warp and heavier Silky yielded by cotton grass in India; used for or woolen filling, forming col- ropes, cotton twine and ored cross ribs heavier than in . cordage. Sometimes two picks are in the same Bhangulpore East Indian raw cotton. shed. Often also printed. The Bhatial Strong, coarse Indian jute; used are all cotton. cheaper grades for ropes. Berampaat Plain woven, coarse cotton Striped or checked silks made cloth, made in Surat; now obsolete. Bhavalpui in East India. Berbiche Cotton Trade name for Brazilian cotton. Bhownuggar East Indian cotton having a medium long, white often Berdelik Turkish name far Oriental rugs staple, intended as wall hangings or cur- dirty. tains. They are generally of silk, Biambonnees East Indian cloth, made of bast fibers light in weight and have delicate wholly and dyed dark colors. brown or dark yellow. Bergamo, Bergamot or Bergamee All- Biaritz A light, corded, woolen dress wool rugs made in Asia Minor; warp goods, made in France; obsolete. and weft are usually dyed; the Biarritz Fantasia A mercerized, , medium long pile is tied in Ghiordes fine cotton cheviot in Spain; export- knots. The designs are floral or large ed to the Philippines. figures; orange and reds geometrical Bias are often used. The ends are finished White cotton goods in the Bokhara and Siberian trade. with a red selvage and short fringe. The coarser grades are made with Biasse Sort of raw silk of Levant. hemp or linen warp and cotton pile. Biaz Lightweight, white, glossy cotton Berlin Canvas 'Every two threads in the cloth of Russian origin; used for warp and filling are drawn together, summer garments. It is more or less thus forming squares and leaving starched, heavily pressed and beetled, open spaces for the wool yarn with often mercerized. Comes in narrow which it is embroidered. widths. BIA 20 BLA

Biaza Sort of camlet, made of camel's Birdseye Small, diamond pattern with a hair by the Astrakhan Tartars. dot in the center. Bibeli Silk pillow lace, made in Smyrna. Birdseye Diamond An 18th century pure Biboci Native Bolivian name for the worsted fabric, in England. fibrous bark of the couratari tree; Birdseye Diaper Called so after its small used for blankets, clothing, etc. design; made in linen or cotton. Biege A loosely woven dress goods, orig- Birdsnest Mat Knitted wool mat with inally of worsted yarn, but now also combed-out napped surface. of cotton. It is woven in two- made Biredshend Persian knotted carpet of is either and-two twill and piece dyed very close texture, often made with better woven or printed, or the grades motifs of palm leaves and shawl de- of mixture yarns. signs. Bielefeld quality of linen Very good Biretz 'Double-faced woolen fabric, hav- made in B., Germany. ing ribs on one side and cashmere Big Boll A commercial variety of cotton twilled on the reverse. from California, the staple, measuring Birrus See Burel. 25-28 millimeters, forms large bolls; Bisette 1, French term for an the yield of lint is 34-35 per cent. em- broidered braid; 2, narrow and coarse all-wool Persian Rugs Heavy, white linen pillow lace made by the the thick being tied in rugs, pile peasants in Seine et Oise, France; Ghiordes knots. Primary reds, blues, originated in the 17th century. etc., are most used in medallion, scroll Bishop's Lawn A and floral designs. very light, fine, plain woven cotton dress goods, given a Bikasab Fabric made of mixture of cot- bluish finish. Originated in ton and silk in Central Asia, and England, where it is made usually 32 beetled in It has narrow finishing. inches wide, weighing five or six stripes. a yard; used by the clergy. blankets woven with Bilagai Navajo Bislint Very narrow ribbon made in narrow red and white cross stripes Westphalia. and a blue border. used Formerly Bisonne A French as shawls the native now woolen fabric, made of by women; natural wool obsolete. gray used for lining garments. Bilatu East Indian cotton having a Bissonata Coarse woolen coarse, weak and brittle staple. cloth, dyed black or brown, made in France for Billiard Cloth Thick, stout and wide clerical garments. made of fine merino on fabric, spun Bissuti See Amamee. the woolen principle and felted in the Bitlis finishing. It is dyed green in the Oriental wool carpet made in B, Asiatic piece. Woven in a three-harness Turkey (Anatolia). twill. Bitre Description of linen of Brabant. Bimlipatam Jute Strong fiber yielded by Bivouac Woolen dress goods, made with a species of hemp, the hibiscus can- nub yarn in mixture effect. nabinus, in India; used as jute sub- Black Fiber (Commercial name for a dark, also called stitute; Bombay hemp. smooth and glossy fiber, obtained from Bin Bagging Plain woven, coarse jute the leaves of a species of the Car- cloth, dyed yellowish brown to imitate yota palm in Ceylon. It is similar hemp. to and a substitute for horsehair. Belgian bobbing lace, origi- Black Faced A medium long and usually nally very similar to the Valenciennes kempy lustrous wool, yielded by the (see), consisting of mesh patterns sheep of the same name in Scotland; over spider and rosette ground. The used for homespuns, carpets. modern b. lace is made of flat bobbin Black Seed Commercial term for vari- sprigs applied to machine net founda- ous American cottons with a smooth tion. black seed. Bindelli Gold, silver or silk galloons Black Superfine -Commercial term for the made in Milan. finest grade of -black woolen suiting Binder Pick^A filling in pile fabrics, formerly made in West of England; serving to hold the pile in place. fulled napped, shorn and finished with a lustrous used for Binders Fibers which connect the staple eoft, face; dress so as to form a fleece. suits. Black Thread In flax Binding 1, plain woven cotton muslin, spinning yarn heavily starched and embossed; used spoiled by oil. for binding books; 2, the process of Black A very dark tartan worn tacking the two separate fabrics in by the Forty-second Royal Highland the together in the loom; Regiment, composed as follows: Very 3, any thread which is woven into dark green bar, split in the middle by a double or triple cloth in order to a group of narrow black, navy and hold the various layers together; black lines; 'black stripe, half the 4, solid colored tape or braid, used to width of the green bar; narrow blue bind the edges of garments. stripe, narrow black stripe, narrow blue stripe, narrow black stripe; *dark Bingo- i Fine grade of Japanese mat blue half of the in rush; used also for lamp wicks. stripe, green width; repeat group described between the Bionde Italian blond lace (see). two * in reversed order. BLA 21 BLY

cotton or Blackjack Staple Trade term for cotton Blind Cord Hade of linen, jute; staple containing large pieces of used for blinds. leaves. Blind Ticking Stout twilled material, Blanc In the 'French dry goods trade combination of linen and cotton in all everything which is bleached, irre- colors and stripes. spective of material. Blind Twill Trade name in England for Blancards French linen made in Rouen a twill showing only indistinctly. of half bleached flax yarn. Bliss Tweed Fine English woolen, similar Blandford Lace Fine English pillow lace to ; used for liveries, etc. of the 18th Century; made in B. Blister Cloth Usually a double fabric, Blanguin Plain woven, bleached cotton woven to produce blister effects. sheeting in Cuba. Blister Effect Novelty silk dress soods on crepe foun- Blanket 1, a thick and heavily napped, with Jacquard figures the fin- twilled woolen fabric, often with an dation; the crepe shrinks in admixture of cotton; used for bed ish, .producing blisters in the figures. covers; horse blankets are very heavy Blodbende 'Medieval English name for and felted. iBlankets are used by un- narrow silk ribbon, worn tied around civilized tribes as clothing. See Nava- the arm after bleeding. 2-2 twill also jo; 2, name for the and Blondes Bobbin or needle point laces an eight-harness satin weave; 3, made of natural yellow silk a short originally weave room term indicating in the l'8th Century, later also of black one or a leng-th of a fabric showing or colored silk. Originally called number of ranges of patterns made in blondes ecrus or Nankings, whence a variety of colors. the silk came. Blondes de fantaisie Blanket Stitch A fancy had machine made silk net ground used as castover on the edges of the with the design darned into. Blondes applique patterns. en persil with small parsley leaves des Stout heavy, milled woolen fab- strewn over the ground. Blondes Blaquets bobbin or needle ric; used on the cylinders of the application have over machine printing machines. point sprigs appliqued made ground. Fausse blondes are silk fine Irish tweed suiting; 2, Blarney 1, tulles embellished with floss silk in Irish woolen knitting yarn, heavier stitches. and harder than the Connaught. various Blonde de Fil Sometimes applied to mig- 'Inferior raw wool. Blassas Spanish nonette lace (see). Blatta, Blatthin Medieval silk fabric Blondes en Persil 'See Blondes. and interwoven with gold. dyed .purple Blond Quilling Resembles bobbin quilling Bleaching The process of destroying the but made of silk, is highly sized and natural coloring matter in textiles and finished; used for frills, ruffles. either ex- rendering them white, by Blondines 18th Century woolen fabric in them to the stretched on posing sun, England. a lawn and subjected to repeated wet- fineness of the wool as ting, or by treating the textiles with Blood Denotes the is chlorin, sulphuric acid or other chem- compared with pure merino, which icals. called full blood. cer- Bleaching Powder Used very extensively Bloom The glossy finish imparted to in weak solution for bleaching vegeta- tain woolen fabrics in the - ble fibers (only). Strong solution will ing. form oxycellulose on cotton and turn B| ue .English and crossbred wool, taken linen yellow. Bleaching powder will from the best part of the average lus- give a lustrous or crinkled finish to ter fleece; spins to 36s. treatment animal fibers after a brief Blue Bafts 'Coarse muslin made in Man- if treated too but will rot them long. chester for the African trade for chlorine. Also called wearing apparel. Bleeding Running color in the fabric or Blue East Indian Linen^Sort of bafta yarn. (see). BlendingProcess of mixing various fibers Blue Flax Trade term for flax from together, -producing mixtures in colors Bruges, Malines, Ypres, Lokeren, or qualities. The different fibers are Ghent and other places in Belgium; placed in thin layers on top of each it is steeped in still water and has other, taking care that no particular a dark color. The fiber is given prominence. length Blue Mottle Light and sheer narrow cot- fibers ie a mat- of the very important ton fabric made in England; it has are best ter and short fibers usually a mottled blue effect. adapted for blending. Bluette Plain woven cotton fabric, dyed Irish term for unbleached beetled Bley blue. linen. Linen Swiss twill linen with Blicourt Fine French serge made in nar- Blumly leaving out white, row widths of fine wool; used for lin- printed ground, blue or red flowers. ing garments; obsolete. Blunk In a stout cotton or linen Blind Chintz Plain woven printed and England fabric made to be printed in colors. calendered cottons, made in various colors and designs, mainly in stripes, Blyat, Bleaunt or Pliat Rich silk dress and resembling Venetian blinds. goods of the Middle Ages. BOA 22 BOM

Boardy 'Wool fabrics which have a hard, Bokeram (Same as (see). board-like feel, said to be caused by Bokhara or Tekke Turkoman 1, all-wool being dyed in the grease. knotted carpet with long pile. Ground Bob 1, a commercial variety of American is usually of bright red or reddish cotton, the early ripening staple meas- brown with various ochre and other uring 25-28 millimeters, forming me- colored patterns. The weave is not dium size bolls; the yield of lint is close, the patterns being mostly of 30-32 cent. Also called per Ozier; geometrical nature; 2, very light, 2, in pillow and needle laces the orna- transparent, natural colored silk of ment connecting the bars between the plain weave. patterns. Identical with the crescent Bokhara Khilim 'Made in crown, spine or thorn. Turkestan by embroidering square and octagonal de- Bobbin A cotton cord in employed signs on a dark red, woven founda- for a ribbed dressmaking making edge tion; used for .portieres. by enclosing it in a strip of the ma- terial. Bola 'Strong and long fiber, not affected by water, yielded the bark of the Bobbin Trade term for machine by Fining hibiscus tree in India; used for cord- made laces similar to the shadow lace, age. usually with a heavy thread outlining the pattern. Bolbees 1, coarse, bleached linen made in Bobbin Lace Lace made with bobbins on Normandy; 2, light blue colored French linen. a pillow over which the pricked pat- tern is stretched. Also called bone Bolivar 'Light and loosely woven all-wool lace and pillow lace. flannel dyed in gray. Bobbinnet iMachine-made, hexagonal net, Bolivar County A commercial variety of used for quillings, trimmings, etc. cotton from Louisiana, the early ma- Bobbin Quilling >Plain cotton net used turing bolls yielding: about 30 per cent for frills. of lint. Bobbin Tape 'Made in cotton and in linen, Boll The seed pod of the cotton. It has both round and flat. from three to five cells, each cell con- Bocasine A plain woven, very firm linen taining from 6 to 11 seeds, these seeds fabric, given a high finish; obsolete. being covered with the cotton fibers. Boccadillos In the Spanish and South Bollies 'Cotton obtained from the half American trade a thin, bleached and open or small bolls. sized linen, used for shirts, etc. Bolo-bolo A West A damaek table African, very strong Boccage linen, made in and the Honck- Calvados, France. long fiber, yielded by enya ficifolia. Boccassini 'Fine, muslin-like, bleached cotton cloth, made in the southern Bologna Gauze Finest silk gauze,, craped, Balkan States. and dyed black; used for mourning veils; white for veils. Booking Coarse English woolen flannel resembling baize. Bolsa 'Cotton bagging in Argentine; Booking Bay An 18th Century English usually a three harness . worsted fabric. A piece of cloth rolled or folded for Bodiasse Common Chinese silk. the retail market. 'The Body solid, compact feel of textile Bolting Cloth Sheer, veil-like gauze, used fabrics. for sifting flour, etc.; made of strong Bofu 'French silk drese goods of the hard spun silk or cotton yarn, also Middle Ages. of hair or wool. Bogotana White madapolam in Colombia Bolton Counts Fine cotton yarn made from 28 to 35 inches wide, having a of Sea Island cotton in England. soft finish. Bolton thick, coarse, , English Bohemian Flax Fine flax of long, clean Sheeting twilled and unbleached cotton: used and lustrous fibers. for , for dresses, Bohemian Lace Bobbin or machine lace aprons, hanging. with flowing tape on a net ground as characteristic feature. Mostly made Bombanas Fibers yielded by the leaves as applique lace (see). of the Panama palm; used for etc. Boil Out Test to find out if the cloth braids, contains other fiber than wool. The Bombasi 1, cotton bunting in Venezuela; fabric is boiled in solution of potash, 2, printed cotton cloth, napped on one which will dissolve the wool fibers, side; used in Paraguay. while cotton and other vegetable or fab- fibers remain intact. Sombasin 1, obsolete silk cotton ric made in Italy and France; used Boiled Linen Trade term for linen cloth for lining; 2, various fabrics in the boiled in soda lye and thus degummed. present trade made usually of wool. Boiled Off Silk Which has all of its nat- Among them an English dress goods ural sum removed by warm solution made of silk warp and worsted filling of soap. The gum is from 17 to 25 in serge weave and dyed in the piece, per cent of the weight. usually black; used for mourning. Bokas Sort of blue and white cotton cloth Bombasin Cotton Early name for - of Surat. zilian cotton. BOM 23 BOU

Bombast 1, any soft fabric which is used Bookbinders' Cloth Plain woven cotton for padding; hair or wool stuffing for fabric, heavily starched and glazed; clothing, during Elizabeth and James used for book binding. in a medieval Oriental England; 2, Bookfold Certain sheer linen and cotton cotton fabric. fabrics are folded once lengthwise Bombax 1, cotton tree of the Malvacea and twice crosswise. family, the white or brownish fiber used for stuffing pillo'ws, etc., in South Boomazey Twilled Russian cotton cloth, America and West Indies; 2, medieval printed on the face and napped on name for Bombasine (see). the back; used for shirts, dresses, Bombay Medium weight, gray cotton etc., in the winter. sheeting in . Boombi Leaf fiber yielded by the Xerotes Bombay Aloe Fiber Strong fiber, yielded longifolia in Australia; used for by the leaves of the bastard aloe in coarse bags. India; used for cordage. Borandjik A very fine, white cotton mus- Bombay Hemp, Gambo Hemp or Bimlipa- often crinkled; used for dresses a va- lin, tam Strong fiber, yielded by by peasant women in Sertvia and riety of hemp in India; used as sub- Roumania. stitute for jute. Borato 17th century, very light, English Bombazet In France a smooth, plain fabric of silk and fine wool. woven or twilled cloth of hard spun English worsted yarn, with single Borax Used in calico printing and to warp, finished without a glaze. ferment logwood. 1. in the 16th Century a white Bord Same as Burda. worsted and silk fabric in England; Bordat Coarse cotton cloth used in lower see Bombasin. 2, Egypt by the poorer classes for Bombe 'French term in embroidery, dress- clothes. making, meaning puffed or rounded. Bordati Mixture of cotton and silk made Bonbon Fine French hosiery. in Genoa; made plain or with flower Bone The hard feel in some woolen fab- or stripe patterns; some grades used rics which have been fulled too stiff. in the as . Bone Lace 'Similar to pillow or bobbin Borde French term for or bound lace (see). edged or bordered. Bongra Plain woven, coarse fabric made by the natives of East India from net- Border Printed or woven pattern which tle fibers. runs along the edge of the fabric; in which forms Bonne Femme French, stout silk taffeta part of pattern lace, the outer edge. of very good quality, made black without any luster or finish; used for Borrat Black cotton, similar to the scarfs, etc.; obsolete. berkan, made in Saxony; now ob- Bonnaz Embroidery Made by the Bonnaz solete. machine in chainstitch design over a Borre East Indian cotton or nettle cloth. mesh foundation; used for curtains. 18th century, English, pure of cotton Borsley Bontane Oblong pieces cloth, worsted fabric. usually dyed blue and red; worn as loincloth in Africa. Bosnia Rug Originally knitted on plain frames in widths of about 16 inches; Coarse, sailor's linen, with blue Bonten of lines. and white or red and white checks. patterns composed straight Book Silk reeled by the natives of China Bostous 'French fabric, woven stout of or linen. in home industry, is done up in ply yarn of silk, wool "books" containing a dozen large Bota Persian name for the palm pat- hanks. terns in Oriental rugs. Book Cloth Usually a calico, which is Botany 1, fine merino wool grown around colored, sized and embossed heavily Botany Bay, Australia; 2, general hot rollers. The is between dyeing term for all classes of fine wool. They in the in the ordinar- either piece, as are sorted according to counts they colored book cloths, or simply ily will spin, without any other names. colored on the face, called fancy col- ored cloths. Botany Twill English twilled fabric made entirely of Botany wool. Book Harness Muslin A light cotton muslin, upon which the figures are Botany Yarn English coarse knitting formed by a heavy, extra weft yarn for stockings. yarn of slack twist, the floats being Baubl in Stout, twilled, summer cotton cut away; used for curtains, etc. dress goods, changeable in blue and Book Muslin or Buke Muslin 1, coarse, green; made in Bohemia for the open and heavy cotton fabric, dyed Polish trade. In the piece and sized very heavily Boucassin French lining canvas, dyed, and a finish; used for given glazed sized and calendered. Also a coarse, underlining, millinery; 2, plain mus- French linen ticking, heavily dressed. lin, stiffened to imitate French lawn; 3, hard, bluish and heavily dressed Bouche Fine, French woolen cloth in cotton muslin; 4, soft muslin made plain weave, undyed; worn by the in Imitation of the Indian buke; used Spanish and Italian clergy as - for tambour embroidery. ing. BOU 24 BRA

Boucle 1, medium weight, soft, twilled Boy, Boi Coarse, loosely woven flannel dress goods, made of cotton or wool, lining, made of cotton warp and wool having nub or loop yarn for filling. and noil filling. is a The same effect produced with Boyau Dress goods with alternated ; 2, sometimes used to stripes of satin and over a fig- denote terry fabrics. ured taffeta foundation. or Purl Sort of tinsel Bouillon, Bullion, Boyaux .Hard spun, ply cotton yarn, used or flattened used for embroider- wire; as warp in genuine Beauvais and etc. ies, plaits, Gobelin . Bouilloner French for cockle (see). Boyd Prolific A commercial variety of Bouloire Sort of French linen made in B. upland cotton, the staple, maturing in Boulvardee Half-bleached, coarse, French medium time, measures 20-24 milli- hemp canvas; used by the country meters, forming small bolls and yield- people. ing 30-32 per cent lint. Boura French fabric made of wool and Brabancon Lace >Xame given to Brussels silk. lace. Bouracan Obsolete, stout, waterproof, Brabant Gray or half-bleached canvas, French coating camlet, made with made of flax waste in Belgium. warp ribs; it was not fulled. Brabant Edge Combination of Brussels Bourat Strong, French canvas made of and Venetian edge worked alternate- unbleached tow. ly; used in needle-point lace. Bourbon Cotton growing in India, the Brabant Lace Same as Brussels Lace. West Indies, East Africa, etc., having Brabant Linen or Blaams Linen Made a medium long, silky, white and soft around Ghent, Belgium, by the peas- fiber. ants. Bourdaloue Figured, French linen, with Brabantine In Italy, a bleached linen of various geometrical designs, ofr in various fineness, imported from damask weave, with small dobby pat- Holland. used as obso- terns; , etc.; Bracking Trade term for the compulsory lete. sorting or grading of flax in . Bourdat See Bordat. Bradford Fine worsted dress goods Bourdony Woolen dress goods, formerly made at Bradford, England. made at Gera, Germany. Bradford System or English System In Bourette silk of the 1, yarn spun carded, spinning worsted yarns, the wool is short fibers of waste 2, French silk; oiled before it is combed, the slivers for nub yarn; 3, hard-spun rough- are drawn by rolls, are twisted into a or faced, lightweight, plain woven rope and wound on bobbins; the yarn twilled dress made with nub goods, is composed of parallel fibers and is Printed cloth for table yarns; 4, made quite smooth. See French System. covers, etc., of nub silk waste A commercial vari- Bou rme Sort of Persian raw silk. Bragg Long Staple ety of American cotton; the staple is Bourras Obsolete, all-wool, coarse suit- long, but not of length, form- ing; used by the lower classes in ing large, late maturing bolls; the France. yield of lint is 30 per cent. Bourre best of silk 1, grade waste; 2, Braid Woven or plaited flat, round or white cotton cloth striped from Asia tubular narrow fabric; for binding French for Minor; 3, stuffed or or trimming. wadded. Braid Wool Trade name for the long, Bourre de Soie or Filoselle See Spun lustrous wool in Indiana and Silk. grown Kentucky. Bout One round made in knit- complete The old fashioned rag rug; ting. the strips of rags are first twisted into Boutane Sort of dimity made in Cyprus wide, flat braids, which are wound and Chios. spirally around a center, forming a mat. Boutonne Cloth Cotton cloth in plain or Jacquard effects; made of nub yarn. Braiding Ornamental needlework by braid over cloth or braid Boutonniere, Point de Buttonhole stitch sewing formed into lace or other work. in hand-made point laces. Braize Narrow, sheer and light dress Bowking The process of boiling the cot- made of silk and wool ton fabric in a solution of lime water goods warp in solid colors and ob- for hours during the bleaching filling, plaids; solete. process. Bramante White cotton cloth with stiff Bowstring Elastic and very strong Hemp starch dressing and semi-glazed and durable leaf fiber yielded by sev- in Colombia; from 26 to 35 eral species of the Sansevieria in Asia, finish, inches wide; is coarser than the Bogo- Africa and America; used for ropes, tana. strings, etc. Bran or Kleanka Sort of Russian buck- Box Cloth coarse Thick, , usually ram. buff, but also comes in any color; used for riding apparel, coach trim- Branching Fibei The main veins of the mings and overcoats. leaves in bobbin lace sprigs. BRA 25 BRI

Brandenbourg French for frogs and Bribe English term for a piece of other ornamental trimming for but- cloth containing flaws and cut away tonholes. from the length. Brandeum Rich silk-and-wool fabric in Brick Stitch Used as background in an- medieval England; used for palls, tique embroideries; sort of couching girdles, etc. (see), the effect being similar to a Brannon A commercial variety of cot- brick wall. ton from Texas; the staple, measur- Bridal Lace Drawnwork in the 16th and ing 18-22 millimeters, forms small 17th centuries, worn at weddings. The bulls; the yield of lint is 32-35 per designs represented coats of arms of cent. the families. Brasovian Piece-dyed diagonal or twilled Bride In needle-point laces the threads woolen fabrics, dyed usually blue; connecting the various parts of the used for women's dresses in the Bal- pattern. kan States; imported from Austria- Bride Epingle A needle-made mesh Hungary. ground for real lace, each side cov- Bratos Purled Wool fabric made in Nor- ered with buttonhole stitches- To be wich, England, in the 17th century. found on early samples of Argentan point. Brattice Cloth A very coarse, heavy and Bride Ornee Bride covered with woven cotton or hemp fabric; (see) closely buttonhole stitches and ornamented used in England in the mines. with picots, etc. Brawels or Chiadder Boraals White and Bride Picotee In point laces a hexagonal East Indian calico of blue striped buttonholed net, each side orna- loose used the African weave; by mented with a couple of picots or for etc. tribes turbans, pearls (see). Braying Term used in England to denote Bridgewater Light English the scouring of woolen fabrics after made in the 16th century. taken from the loom. Brighton^Not reversible diamond pat- Brazier Peterkin See Peterkin. terns; used on dress and other fab- the diamonds are Brazilian Baize In England, a medium rics; alternately small and It is a grade of baize dyed orange color. large. honeycomb weave made in straight draft, the Brazilians In England regattas woven threads in a repeat being divisible of Brazil cotton; also madapolams by four. that cotton. made of Brighton Embroidery iHas geometrical Breacan Original (Gaelic) term for the patterns upon coarse canvas founda- tartan. tion. Breannes Bleached, French linen of Brighton Nap Said to be another name loose texture, similar to the BrionnB for Russels (see) in the 16th century; (see). made with nubs on the face. Breaune See Brionne. Brilliants Lightweight cotton dress fab- ric or shirtwaisting, made with fine Breech In English or crossbred wool the warp and a heavier, slack twist filling lower part of the fleece grown on the which forms little, geometrical fig- legs. ures with floats on a plain woven Breluche Coarse and stout French ground. The fabric is often mercer- ized. twilled suiting, made in solid solors, with linen warp and woolen filling; Lightweight, twilled dress obsolete. goods, woven with cotton warp and luster worsted or mohair filling, dyed Brenne Lightweight woolen cloth, often in the yarn in the same or various with silk stripes; made in formerly colors. The covers the face. France. filling The patterns are usually formed by Bresilienne Corded French silk dress floats. goods and vesting; also an all-wool, Brin 1, French for a single or fill- twilled fabric made in France in the warp ing; 2, various grades of coarse, stout 19th century. linen, made in France for the Ameri- Bretagne Sort of bleached linen, made can trade; 3, 'fine, sheer and plain in B. woven linen fabric; used for lining fans. Bretanas Variety of plain woven fabrics of pure linen, or mixed with cotton; Brins The two single filaments of pure used in Latin America, imported from silk, encased in natural gum, thus England. forming the silk -fiber as produced by the silk worm. The two brins are Breton In and Embroidery silver, gold produced by two glands in the worm. colored silk thread over cloth, silk or mesh; to be used as borders. Brioche A fancy, now obsolete, knitting; Flowers, geometrical designs and used for sofa and - Breton patterns are the motifs, out- coats. lined and then filled out, usually Brionne Bleached, sheer, French linen of chain and satin stitches being used. various grades; used for curtains. Bretonne A fine net, similar to Brussels, Britannias 'Stout linen cloth, bleached or but having larger mesh; used for lace in gray, made in in Germany for th ground. West Indian markets- BRI 26 BRO

Britch The lowest grade of wool in a de Passementerie Stout drap- fleece, taken from the thighs and ery fabric, made of cotton warp and spins 26s to 28s. wool filling. British In the trade gray cotton hose. Brocatine Brocade with raised patterns. British Raised Work Short ends of Broche 1, French term for swivel and heavy wool yarn are fastened by the lappet figures; 2, also a large num- middle to a coarse canvas foundation _>er of fabrics decorated with special and then brushed out, resembling a threads, which are introduced, to- pile. together with the regular warp or Broach East Indian raw cotton, having a filling threads, but which do not form moderately strong and fairly clean a necessary part of the structure it- staple of golden color. self. These threads are carried as floats at the back of the fabric, or Broad Similar to the brick Couching are clipped and form colored the laid threads are away stitch, only designs. slightly drawn together. troche Wool made with Broad Rash Heavy coating, made of Carpets carpets, figures formed cut over a worsted and woolen filling in by pile warp Brussels the 18th century in England. ground. Embroidered Broad Silk Wide silk dress goods and Brodequin hosiery. linings. Broderie 'French name for embroidery. Broad White Eighteenth century trade Broderie en Lacet 'Braid stitched to name for camblets. satin foundation, the patterns being filled in with stitches lace. Broadcloth Fine all- woolen or worsted imitating warp dress cloth or coating of stout Broderie de Malines Early name for texture; the fabric is fulled and Malines lace (see). napped, shorn and pressed on the face, Broderie de Nancy^Drawn work, orna- which has a velvety feel and a little mented with colored silk. gloss. The back is twilled. Brodie A tartan, consisting of equal Brocade 1, originally a rich and heavy wide black and green stripes, both silk fabric, with flowers, foliage, fig- ways; these are broken up in the ures, etc., woven in gold or silver core middle by a narrow red stripe (both yarn. It was of Oriental origin; used ways and two still narrower stripes, for state and church vestments; 2, one on each side of the red). Half silk fabric having usually large flower of the green stripes is taken up in or other pattern design woven in a the middle by a blue stripe each way. color different from the foundation, Broella Coarse woolen fabric; used for each thread usually reaching filling clothing by the English country peo- from to selvage. The pat- selvage ple in the Middle Ages. terns are usually of an embossed Broken Ends threads which have character; 3, collective name for a Warp broken the or finish- large class and variety of silk, wool during weaving In and other dress fabrics, having pat- ing, showing as a defect the cloth. terns usually in a different color, Broken Picks Weft threads broken in often of an embossed character. Sil- the weaving and showing as a flaw. ver or gold brocade is a fabric with Broken Twill iName for a large number silver or gold tinsel figures on taffeta, of modifications of the ordinary twill satin or twill foundation. weave, produced by missing certain foundation Brocaded satin has a threads of the twill, the repeat taking made in satin weave, the pattern be- an opposite direction. See also Her- ing woven in another weave or made ringbone. in velvet. Brocaded velvet can be Brokes Short taken from the neck over or velvet staple either pile pile (see) and the of the term over a woven or other belly parts fleece; patterns plain used in the woolen trade. It is the foundation. See also Lame, Swivel same as skirting. and Lappet. Bromsia Sort of Levant raw silk. Brocade Embroidery The designs traced over the foundation are outlined or Brooks Improved An early maturing also -filled in with stem stitch in vari- commercial variety of cotton from ous colored heavy wool or floss silk Louisiana, yielding about 31 per cent yarn' of short staple. Brocading Weaving process for intro- Brown 1, an early maturing commercial ducing extra silk, gold or silver variety of -cotton from Mississippi, threads into the cloth to form pat- yielding a short staple; 2, wool-sort- terns. ing term for about 30s quality, taken Brocart or Brocat French for torocade. from the haunches of the fleece; is lower grade than "neat." Brocatelle 1, originally a heavy, cross- ribbed furniture and drapery fabric, Brown Egyptian 'Cotton, having a long, similar to the brocade, having Jac- strong, clean and easily worked sta- quard figures and usually made of ple of golden brown color. but also silk warp and cotton filling, Brown Trade name for Sunn of all all or all wool; Hemp silk, cotton, hemp. 2, modern dress goods and vesting, similar to the furniture drapery, but Brown Holland Originally unbleached or made in lighter weights and often all partly bleached plain woven linen, the furniture silk; 3, silk fabric having glossy, satin latter sized and used as figures on a less glossy taffeta ground cover or summer clothing. It comes of same color. also in dark gray and black. BRO 27 BUF

Brown Matching Wool taken from the Brussels Lace Bobbin or point lace. 1, flanks of the English crossbred fleece; the bobbin lace has hexagonal spins 28s. ground, two sides being of four threads plaited four times and four Brown Coarse, unbleached sides of two threads twisted. The linen, made in Ireland and Scotland outlines of the flowers and the veins or linen for the of strong hemp yarn of the leaves are of raised plaited American trade. cordonnet- The ground was worked around the the brides and Brown Unbleached stout Silesia flowers, toile are in linen. very elaborate; 2, needle- point lace, the hexagonal ground is Bruce Tartan with bright red ground, the made in strips of one inch width and plaid formed by groups of four (two then joined with the raccroc stitch. wider in the middle and two narrower The cordonnet is not buttonholed; at the sides) stripes in dark green, 3. Modern B. lace is composed of which are together as wide as the red sprigs appliqued to machine made squares. In the mfddl; of the re-d ground. alternated narrow yellow and squares Brussels Plain cotton net with white run each way. Quilling stripes an extra twist around the mesh; used Bruges Obsolete Belgian and French sat- for frills, etc. in, made with siik warp and hard Buaze Strong, fine and durable bast twist cotton filling. fiber, yielded by the twigs of a spe- 1, fine Belgian bobbin lace cies of securidacea in Zambesi; used similar to the Valenciennes, having for fishing net by the natives. ornamental bold patterns and brides Buchanan Tartan; even sided plaid with ornees (see) ; is called also point the following stripes in a both duchesse. It has a circular mesh repeat ways; red, narrow ground, the threads being twisted blue, yellow de (split in the middle by a narrow blue), three times; 2, Bruges narrow narrow consists of various sprigs joined with blue, green, narrow brides. blue, narrow green and narrow blue. The wide red stripes are split in the Bruir Process of fixing dyes on cloths by center by a narrow white stripe. passing damp throug'h the texture. Buoioche Sort of common woolen cloth Brunswick Twilled fabric, similar to made in France for the Egypt trade. cassimere, made of wool and cotton. Buckinghamshire Lace Bobbin lace with Brush Binding A braid with a stiff fringe plaited ground similar to that of Lille along one edge, used to bind the bot- or Valence. It is made in one piece, tom of skirts. usually in narrow widths, used as lace. Characteristic is the Brush Trade term for narrow baby Length (see). . trolly Buckle Stitch In bob-bin laces the stems Brushed knitted made Loosely material, and fibers of the sprigs are often of several different colored, loose twist formed of a braid made in b. s. yarns, the long nap of which are brushed after knitting, producing col- Buckram 1, originated from Bokhara as a or mixtures. Used for caps, , costly material, called also Bokeram. etc. In the 16th century a rich English woolen fabric, used for church vest- Brushing A finishing profess, consists in ments; 2, plain woven or twilled raising the nap with circular brushes- coarse, open fabric, dyed in the piece, Brussa 'Loosely woven half silk veiling and heavily sized if used for hat of varying weave, made in B., Asia. shapes. It is made of coarse hemp or cotton yarn, hair, etc. Also used for Brussels 18th century woolen fabric in under lining and stiffener for clothes, England. in this case not sized.

Brussels Carpet 1, the body Brussels is Buckskin A thick, stout and very dura- made of worsted with warp loop pile; able woolen fabric woven in an eight- it is spoken of as six -frame, five- leaf satin weave with a warp face. frame, etc., according to the number It is napped, fulled thoroughly and of threads in the thickness of the car- shorn, the face being finished very pet. Each thread forms loops and smooth. Used for overcoats, riding then is carried in the body of the , etc. Summer buckskin is carpet. There are two picks to each made of hard spun worsted yarn of- wire. Usually all the threads in each ten mixed with silk. frame are of one color, and there are as many frames as colors. The range Buckskin Weave An eight-leaf warp each over of colors is limited; 2, tapestry satin weave, warp crossing Brussels is similar to body Brussels six picks and carried under two picks. but only one is used which is warp Buffalo Cloth Heavy twilled woolen printed in the pattern before weaving. overcoating with a long nap. Brussels Edge 'Used as finish or needle- Buffalo Wool fine wool, growing point laces. Very among the coarse hair on the buffalo. Brussels Ground Hexagonal mesh net Used for fine felt hats, shawls, etc. ground for lace, made of four threads. Little available. BUF 28 BUR

Buffinei A coarse English woolen fabric Burail Plain woven light weight French in the 16th and 17th centuries used dress fabric, similar to ferrandine for clothing. (See Buffyn.) (see) the warp being of floret or other Buffline 'Trousering of linen and cot- silk and the filling of cotton, wool, ton. etc.; obsolete. Buffyn Sort of English camlet of the Burano Lace Made on the island of 17th century, also called catalowne. Burano near Venice, originally it was (See Buffiner.) point lace of the finest quality with net at the the Obsolete for calico. ground; present Bugazeen choicest specimens of Alencon, Brus- fabric Bugis 'Fine, plain woven cotton sels, Argentan and other laces are used for scarfs in East India. It has also made there. a checked or striped border only along Burat or Buratee 'Light and plain woven one selvage. French dress goods, dyed in the piece; Buke Muslin See Book Muslin. made of floret silk and worsted yarn. Bulac A Philippine species of cotton; It i sstronger than etamine; used for used for cordage. mourning, also ecclesiastical vest- Bulbul 'Fine cotton muslin made in ments, judges' robes; obsolete. India. Burat a Grosgrain Same construction as Bulgarian Embroidery .Made in various burat, made with weft ribs. colored silks, cottons and gold bright Bu ratine Persian raw silk. or silver thread over a coarse, un- dressed black or white muslin, it is Buratte 1, fabric of southern Italy, with alike on both sides. warp of Bologna silk, filling tram silk; 2, linen; ueed in Bull Muck In England imperfect tops. stiff, transparent Italy for drawnwork. Bull's Wool Trade term for very coarse mercerized and and low grade woolens. 1, lightweight waterproofed cotton fabric, with Bullion Originally gold or silver lace, fine ribs: used for raincoats; also thick wire braid for uni- warp gold twilled woolen cheviot suit- forms. 2, fancy, ing. Bullion Embroidery Of antique origin, for black and used now chiefly on church vestments Burda Arabic name and for . The gold or silver white warp striped fabrics; used for thread is laid down over the pattern garments in North Africa. and sewn to it. Burdalisander Medieval silk fabric in Bullion Fringe Made of gold or silver various colored stripes, believed to threads, used on uniforms. originate from northern Africa. See Bullion Knot Round spots made 'by lay- Alexander. or silk thread in ing down the metal Burden Stitch Used in embroideries to small flat coils, used for ground in reproduce flesh. The silk threads are embroideries. laid down evenly and are caught in Bullion Lace Made of gold or silver even distances. thread. 'Sure or Bureau 1. a heavy and coarse, Bulobulo A coarse Philippine fiber; used plain woven or twilled French dresj for cordage. fabric and suiting, .finished with a white and bast Bun Ochra Fine, strong dense nap on the face. It is made weed in fiber of the Caesar India; with cotton or hemp warp and wool- used for twine and bags. en filling; 2, a light very open, Bunch Contains 130,000 yards of linen French woolen dress goods. yarn. Burel Coarse, brown colored English BundleLinen yarn measure, equal to woolen fabric; used for etc., 10 clothing, 60,000 yards, weighing pounds. by the poorer classes in the 13th Bundle Handkerchief Of linen and also and 14th centuries. cotton, made in England with plaid Burgos A calico, dyed blue and printed patterns in dark blue color. in fancy colors; made originally in Bunraj See Arree- East India. Bunt Lace Obsolete Scotch bobbin lace, Buri Raffia A finer and weaker fiber originated about the middle of the than raffia, obtained from the un- 18th century, usually made of coarse opened leaves of the Buri palm in the thread in lozenge patterns. Philippines; used for coarse bagging. Buntal Fibei Is obtained from the stalks Crane >An all-worsted of the unopened leaves of the Bun Buring English fabric of the 18th century. palm in the Philippines; it is a very light fibber, used for hat braids. Burity 'Fine and lustrous leaf fiber, ob- tained from the Muriti palm of Buntine Same as Bunting (see). Brazil; used for cordage, hats, Bunting 1, an all-worsted English fabric baskets. of the 18th century; 2, a narrow fabric made of long staple, coarse English Burlap Plain woven, heavy coarse cloth, 'Wool in an open and plain weave, hav- made of jute, usually 40 inches wide ing two-ply warp and single filling; in Scotland, made of single yarn in for also used flags and dresses, made plain weave; the limit of the weight partly or entirely of cotton. is between 6 and 14 oz. per yard. BUR CAB

Burling "Process of removing all knots, Buttonhole Stitch A very important of a short and long burrs, slubs, etc., from the cloth In stitch consisting also order to improve its appearance. stitch in needle-point laces; called point none and close stitch. Burnet A fine woolen fabric of brown or loose cotton black color; used for dresses in the Buttonhole Twist Thick, used to 13th century in England- thread, made of 24 strands; strengthen the edges of buttonholes. Burnetising Impregnating canvas or Buz 1, woven gray cotton fabric cordage with the solution of chloride plain made in Central Asia; used for shirts of zinc to prevent dry rot; used in and drawers, made 11 inches wide; nautics. 2, in the Bible means (see). Test for detecting wool, cot- Burning Byssine A fine cloth in medieval Eng- ton or silk h'bers. Wool and silk wall land; its construction is unknown. burn slowly with an unpleasant odor, for fine sheer leaving black ashes behind. Cotton Byssus 1, old Greek name burns with a flame depositing white linen fabric of white or yellowish ashes. color, woven in Egy.pt; 2, long and silky hair-like beard of some sea Burnley Printers Plain woven, bleached mussels; used for gloves and stock- cotton made un in oloth, England ings in southern Italy- pieces measuring 116 yards in length, Stitch In canvas 32 inches in width, with 64 ends and Byzance embroidery a close zig-zag pattern. 64 picks in a square inch; used for producing prints. Also called B. lumps. Byzantine Carpet Similar to Brussels carpet with the addition of metal Burr the seeds of weeds in 1, entangled threads at intervals. the wool; 2, knotty silk waste. Byzantine Embroidery Applique em- Burrah A colored plain woven, heavy broidery, heavy worsted or floss silk cotton fabric in East used Africa, yarn being laid and sewn on to leath- for the It is garments by natives. er or other thick ground, often orna- either dark blue or made in narrow mented with pieces of cloth. blue and black stripes with border stripes in other colors and a center stripe in red or yellow. There are also headings at both ends of the piece. Burring Process of removing the burrs from the fleece, by means of hooks. Burrom Sannah East Indian cotton cloth. Fine, flax-like fiber, yielded Burry Wool, the fibers of which are en- Caaporopy a of the Urtica family in tangled with burrs. by species Paraguay; used by the natives for Burry Blanket A plain woven and ropes, etc. slightly napped blanket. Cab or Cabbage Tailor's clippings in Burrys An interior, coarse and heavy England. woolen fabric in England. Caballeros Spanish raw merino wool; Bush A commercial variety of cotton used in large quantities in France. from Louisiana; See Ben Smith- Cabeca A very fine grade of East In- dian sil'k. Bushireh Inferior coarse carpet wool from Persia. See Bussorah. Cabesa Raw wool from Estramadura, Bussin Wool fabric made in Norwich, Spain. England, in the 18th century. Cable 1, the heaviest ropes, over 10 inch- es in circumference, made usually of Bussorah Inferior carpet wool from hemp, the yarn, strand and hawser Mesopotamia, has an irregular fleece. (usually three in number), being giT- Bustian (Medieval worsted fabric, used en alternately a right hand and left for dresses, made with three treadles. hand twist before made into cables; broad Butcher's Linen Heavy, stout bleached 2, a variety of , having linen, used as backing for shirt races. bosoms; a plain woven, soft but Cable Net Is made of heavy cotton yarn coarse muslin, used for aprons, etc.; with large mesh; used in England for comes in the gray or bleached. draping and curtains. Buts In the Bible denotes fine linen. Cable Thread iSewing thread, composed of three threads, which are Butter Cloth Similar ply to twisted together against the original (see). twist. Butternut Obsolete American heavy Cable Twilled webbing, woven woolen homespun trousering, dyed with heavy round thread. brown with extracts from the butter- Cable- Laid 'Formed three ropes nut tree. Rope by of three-strand yarn, twisted into Lumps of fibers collected on the one, alternately to the right and left warp during weaving. hand. CAB 30 CAL

Cablet Trade term for cables measuring Caen A grade of French serge made of less than 10 inches in circumference. wool. Cabling Name in England for the pro- Cafe con Leche In Paraguay white cess of doubling cotton strands and ponchos with brown stripes. to twisting them alternately right and Caffa 1, a 16th century English silk fab- left hand direction in making cotton ric, the patterns of which were either thread. woven or printed with hand blocks; Cabo Negro A dark, straight, smooth 2, an East Indian fancy calico. and glossy fiber, similar to horsehair, Caffard 1, satin made in various col- yielded by the leaves of a palm in ored stripes, the warp being of silk the Philippines; used for ship cord- and the filling of silk or wool; ob- age. solete; 2, French suiting, made of Oabot General term for coarse gray or all-wool or wool and linen; used by bleached, heavily sized cotton sheet- the country people. ing in the Balkan States and Asiatic Cage Work Same as open work. Turkey. Caiana^Sort of raw cotton from Brazil. or Central Cabuja Cabulla American Cajantes Stout French camlet, made of Indian for Mauri- and West name the pure worsted or worsted and silk; tius hemp (see). obsolete. Cabuya Hemp growing in Colombia, Cajun Strong leaf fiber yielded by the Peru and Central America. Yields Furcraea cubensis in Central Amer- fiber very strong for ropes, bags, etc. ica; similar to sisal. Caceres Spanish raw wool of medium Caked 'Flaw in the fabric, consisting of quality. hardened portions of size. Cacharado A plain woven linen fabric Calabria Italian cotton, having a medium from Spain. long, fairly strong but irregular Cachemire French for cashmere. staple of dull white color; contains Cachemire Shawl The finest French much leaf. make is made with woven colored Caladaris East Indian calico made with figures on a foundation of fine cache- black or red stripes. mire wool and organzine Tvarp and Calamacho Italian silk satin. fine and close very Cachemire filling. Calamanco See Calimanco. Genuine cashemire shawl is made in one color, and then embroidered. Calamatta Italian raw silk in the gum. Cachemirette Originally from England; a Calamenque Name in Holland for cal- trousering and coating, made of cot- mande (see). ton or silk warp and woolen filling; Calanca East Indian calico. occasionally it is fulled. It is wov- Calcutta Hemp Trade term for jute. en in twill and given a clear face, Caldera Bush Yields while the back is napped. tough, white, glos- sy leaf fibers; used for rapes, nets, ' in India. i Inferior medieval silk fabric. etc., A finishing process, pro- Caddis 1, worsted lace and ribbon; 2, ducing smooth and glossy surface by stout and very durable twilled wool- passing the fabric between heated en fabric of various colors, used by steel rollers; used on a great variety the French clergy. of cotton, linen, wool and other fab- Cadene Coarse and durable rug made in rics. Asia Minor. Has a and is long pile Calico 1, plain and closely woven, thin sewn of narrow together strips. lightweight printed, cotton cloth; Cadet Cloth (Bluish gray, strong, fulled used for dresses, aprons, etc. The and shorn woolen fabric; used for early calicoes had linen yarn and uniforms in military schools. cotton filling; 2, in England a plain Cadicee An obsolete twilled woolen woven, bleached cotton fabric heavier cloth. than muslin. 3, up to the end of the 18th century every kind of cotton Cadilla brown L,ight colored, very long, goods was called calico. lustrous, strong bast fiber, yielded by the Urena plant in South America; California Fancy English alpaca fabric used for bags, ropes. in the 19th century. Cadillon French twilled woolen cloth. California Blanket Originally of San Francisco, made of fine wool, with a Cadis 1, all-wool, lightweight French soft serge, made about 22 inches wide, ob- long nap. solete; 2, very fine all-wool French Calimanco or Calmanco or Callimanco cloth, slightly fulled; obsolete. 3, In the 19th century a plain or striped coarse twilled worsted fabric; used by stout worsted in England made in the Scotch Highlanders. imitation of the camel hair cloth with Cadis Soubeirams Obsolete, fine French single warp and finished with a high serge; used for lining. luster; used for petticoats and chair seats. See also Calmande. Cadiz Stitch In needle-point laces, con- sists of successive rows of buttonhole Callamancoe 1, stout twilled cotton fab- stitches. ric from Yorkshire; 2, See Calimanco. CAL 31 CAM

Calloose Hemp A very strong stem fiber, Camel Hair 1, used for dress goods, yielded by the Urtica plant in shawls, carpets, hosiery, , etc. Sumatra; used for cordage. Gray is the cheapest, white and black the most expensive and red of me- Calmande Of French and Dutch origin, dium price; 2, a fine, soft and warm made from 20 to 44 inches wide; used dress goods, with a high glossy finish, for men's clothes, skirts, dresses, etc. woven of long staple wool and hav- It was usually made of all-wool, the ing loose hair on the face. warp occasionally mixed with silk or goat's hair, especially for the figured Cameleon French for changeable in C. The C. was made mostly in satin three colors. with weave, but also in ribbed effect Cameline 1, a coarse medieval fabric, a high gloss on the face; many were made of camel hair in twill weave, made of natural colored wool, but similar to the cashmere; 2, woolen also dyed or striped. It was made dress goods in fine basket weave and finished with a soft single or double faced. See also nap. Calimanco. Camelot Coarse fustian used for work- ing clothes in England. Calmuc or Kalmuk 1, wool yielded by the Calmuc sheep in Central Asia; 2, Camelot Baracane 'French term for loose woven, twilled woolen made of baracan (see) made with the warp loose twist yarn, fulled and finished heavier than the weft. with a long nap, used as winter dress Camelotee 18th century French fabrics of goods. smooth finish made with pebbled or Calquiei East Indian silk taffeta made granulated effect, produced by the with double-and-twist or printed colored filling. yarn. Camelotine Now obsolete name of vari- ous of hard Calum Kouree An East Indian chintz. made twist wors- ted yarn. Camayeux 1, effect produced by the pat- Camera loosely woven French tern, and the ground of a design be- Coarse, linen, unbleached or dyed ing different shades of the same color; yellow. 2, silk cloth of colored warp and black Camera Work Photographs attached to a filling, the latter alternately shot in linen ground and surrounded with em- single and double. broidered flowers and scrolls. Cambayes -Strong East Indian cotton Camerick 16th century name in England fabric of coarse structure, finished to for cambric. resemble linen. Cameron of Erracht Highland tartan, Camblet 18th and 19th century English made as follows: Wide dark green bar, and French, plain woven or twilled split with a group of four narrow red in the fabric, made with single or double stripes center (the outer stripes wider than the inner a warp of wool mixed with silk or being ones), black stripe (about one-third of the goat's hair- It was woven in the green), a very narrow red stripe, a gray and dyed in the piece; used for dark blue bar, as wide as the green, . Originally came from the split by a pair of the wider red Orient, where it was made of Angora stripes with a yellow stripe between hair. 'Compare with Camlet. (the three not touching), a very nar- row red stripe, a wide black stripe. Camblettee A 19th century pure worsted fabric in England. Cameron of Lochiel^A Highland tartan with a red ground, the stripes ar- Camboulas 'Southern French fabric, ranged as follows: Narrow white, made of ply cotton warp and woolen edged with narrower blue on both filling. sides, the large, even sided red square is traversed both warp and weft wise Cambrai 1, see Cambric; 2, a machine- made lace. by two wide stripes, narrow white stripes, edged with narrower blue on Cambre Very light, 'sheer, veiling-like each side. The next large red square linen in Italy. is uneven sided, traversed by the two blue continued from the even Cambreaine French term for wov- stripes plain sided square and these are crossed en very fine cottons and sheer linens, by two narrower green stripes. similar to the cambric; originally imported from various parts of Asia. Camientries Wool fabric made in Nor- wich, England, in the 17th century. Cambric 1, same as batiste (eee); 2, a light, plain sized and well woven, Camlet 1, heavyweight, waterproof cam- glazed fabric of inferior grade, made el's hair cloth, originated in Asia; of cotton or linen yarns in white, or later made mixed with angora wool; dyed in the piece and used for lining 2, imitations of hard twist woolen or Cambric Muslin Fine cotton fabric, worsted yarn with the admixture of bleached and glazed, used for under- silk or goat's hair. Compare with wear. Camblet. CAM 32 CAN

Camletee or Camletto A 19th century Canabassette Obsolete French fabric, English worsted, made narrower and made with silk stripes or without any thinner than the Camblet or Camlet. silk. See Canrbletee. Canadaris Chinese and East Indian pure Camleteen Imitation camlet, made of all- silk or cotton mixed satin, made with worsted. fancy stripes or window plaids. Cammaka or Camoca or Camak Fine 'French woolen blankets. medieval fabric, believed to be of cam- Canadian Embroidery 'Made by the na- el's hair and silk; used for church tives of C. by using finely split and vestments and bed hanging. dyed porcupine quills as embroidery Camocato Chinese damask satin. material or cutting leather or skins into small and sewing Camogi Long and fairly strong vege- very pieces table fiber from Southeast Africa; them together into shapes of trees, used as substitute for hemp. animals, etc., with hair. Canadian Patchwork Made of various Camona Peruvian palm, yields leaf colored ribbons into a succession of fibers; used by the native Indians. squares, something like a "log cabin." Camoyard Twilled French fabric, made and silky fiber of of ' hair. Canapina Strong Argentine, yielded by the abutilon or narrow French Campane Campaigne 1, plant; used for cordage. bobbin lace of the 18th century, made Canapone Weak and poor fiber, yielded of flax or silk with scalloped edge; 2, the female seeding in gold, silver or silk fringe with bell- by hemp Italy- shaped small tassels; used as dress Cancanias East Indian, warp striped silk trimming. . Campatillas Woolen dress goods in the Candagang Bast Indian fifoer, yielded by Spanish trade. the Hibiscus eriocarpus. Campbell of Argyll A Highland tartan, Candied Flaw in weighted cloth caused made with wide green bars and twice by the crystallization of the filling as wide blue bars. The green bars chemical on the face of the fabric. are alternately split with a yellow and Canebrake Cotton grown on the south- white stripe. The blue .bars are out- ern central prairie of Alabama, the lined on both sides with a wide and staple is strong, measuring about two very narrow stripes (on the in- 1 1-16 inches. side) of black- Cangan Narrow and inferior cotton fab- Campbell of Breadalbane A Highland ric, made in China and used for cloth- tartan, arranged as follows: Large ing by the poorer classes. checks are formed by two wide black Cangette Coarse all-wool, lightweight stripes and a twice as wide blue bar French serge; used'for clothing, dress- between (the latter split in the center es, etc.; formerly made at Caen, now by a narrow black stripe). Between obsolete. these groups are two solid green bars Cannamazos 'Spanish term for various (as wide as the blue) with a narrower grades of unbleached linens. black stripe between. The wide green Cannele^l, silk fabric, made with two .bars are split with a narrow yellow sets of one single and the other line in the center. warps, ply yarn. The single warp forms the Campbell of Cawdor An even sided High- foundation, the ply yarn floating over land tartan, made as follows: A wide eight fillings, forming ribs. It is also black stripe, wide dark blue stripe, made double faced by dividing the narrow red stripe (edged with black heavy warps and letting them float lines), wide blue stripe, wide black alternately both over the face and the stripe, wide green stripe, narrow pale back; 2, fabrics woven with several blue stripe with black lines on each picks in the same shed, forming short edge, wide green stripes. ribs which appear alternately on the face and the back, imitating the of Loudon Even sided Campbell High- joints of the bamboo. land tartan composed as follows: Very 'East Indian bleached cotton wide dark blue bar with a black stripe Cannequin on each side and two narrow black cloth. lines in the middle, wide green bar, Cannette 1, French make single chappe the same width as the pure blue bar, yarn; 2, a fine wide cotton fabric, the green bars are alternately split made with warp cords; used in the with a narrow white or yellow stripe, Philippines for dresses. edged with a black line. Cannetille 1, lace or military braid Campbell of Strachur A Highland tartan, made of gold or silver thread. See composed of wide green and narrower Bullion; 2, French dress goods and black stripes, and crossed by yellow furniture drapery, havin.? warp ribs, lines. made with two sets of warps and eight leaves and eight fillings in a repeat. Campbell Twill An irregular, eight- thread twill. See Mayo. Canons -Wide lace ruffles worn in the 18th century around the legs of - Campes A French twilled woolen fabric. Canon's Cloth 'Medieval English worsted, Campos A grade of Spanish clothing a piece made five yards long and 63 wool. inches wide. CAN 33 CAR

Canotier French term for dress goods; Capah Damask A rich, purple colored used for yachting and boating cos- silk damask mentioned in the times of tumes. Henry VIII. Canourge French woolen serge. Capanaki Coarse cotton pillow lace, made Canques Cotton shirting in China. in Smyrna. Cant In nautics, the strand of the rope. Wools From ; the Cantai Inferior East Indian cotton mus- staple is fine, silky but short and lin. dirty; used for woolens. Cantaloon See Cantiloon. Capiton Fine a heavy weight soft cotton fabric, with Caraua glossy fiber, yielded by in used a long nap raised on one or both species of the Bromelia Brazil; sides, after which the fabric is dyed. for ropes. It is made of low grade stock and Caravonica Tree-cotton, prcduced by the slack twist yarn; used for underwear, crossing of a long staple Mexican cot- house dresses, and . ton with a coarse long staple Peru- Canton Silk iRaw silk reeled in 14-16 vian growing in India, Mexico, etc. deniers in Southern China from very Will grow in hot climate with not too small cocoons, the fiber is very light much rain. There are two varieties: and weak but regular. Graded in two 1, wool caravonica, adapted for mix- classes, both for tram. ing wiith wool and 2, silk earavonica, which has long, lustrous strong fiber. Cantoon A very stout, compact cotton fabric having fine diagonal wales on Carbonization Chemical process for re- the face and napped in the back. It is covering wool from mixed rags by woven in a 3-and-3 diagonal twill, treating them with diluted sulphuric having great many picks in an inch; acid which destroys all vegetable used for riding breeches, etc. .fibers and leaves the wool behind. Canvas A plain woven cotton or linen Carcami Silk waste in Italy. fabric, made in various grades; used Carcanes An East Indian cotton cloth. for sails, tents, garments, etc. The finest grade is called mosaic, irres- Carcassonnes Light woolen dress goods, pective of the material. made in C., France. In England the Royal Navy canvas, Carda Inferior silk fabric of the 13th which is used for sails, has eight dif- century, believed to have been used ferent grades; it is one-third strong- for lining. er than the next the Merchant grade, In knitted fabric a stitch which Navy canvas. The yarns for the is used to underwear or Is Royal Navy canvas are made without shape in knitting jackets. chlorine, are twice boiled with ashes. employed It is made without stripes. There are Cardillat Sort of French melton. from 776 to 1,300 warp ends and from Cardinal Cloth Red woolen cloth; used 15% to 27 picks (per inch). by high church functionaries- The Merchant canvas in Navy Eng- CardingPreliminary process in the spin- land is used for awnings by the Ad- ning of wool or cotton yarn; the miralty. It is 24 inches wide, has fibers are disentangled and thoroughly single stripes and comes in seven mixed. grades from 1,364 to 1,420 warp ends and from 14% to 24 picks (in an inch). Carding Wool or Clothing Wool Has The United States Government short staple measuring up to four inches, therefore shorter than comb- Navy canvas is made of pure flax, 20 or worsted wools but has a inches wide and 40 yards long. Nos. ins are 1 to 5 are made in various weights greater felting property. They for woolens with double warp and two-ply twisted used (see) although they can be also combed into French yarn. filling. Nos. 7 and 8, the lightest are made of single yarns. They all have Cardis Twilled woolen cloth, fulled and a blue stripe near to the selvage. calendered; now obsolete. Canvas Cloth In England a plain woven Cardouzille Obsolete; light weight, all- cotton, made of hard spun yarn. wool twilled French dress goods.

* -*<" CAR 34 CAS

Carelles Obsolete black trousering, made Carpmeals A stout and coarse English of ' hair. woolen fabric; used for clothing in the northern parts of England. Cargaison A medium weight French lin- en. Carradars East Indian gingham with multi-colored narrow Carisol Thin, open canvas, made for em- stripes. broidery foundation in France. Also Carranclanes Narrow ginghams in the called Creseau. Philippines, coming mostly in checks and Carlett Wool fabric made in Norwich, plaids. England, in the 18th century. Carreau French for check- -17th worsted. Carlowne century English Carrelet Inferior, lightweight, French Carmeline Medium grade of the vicuna woolen; obsolete. wool; used in France. Carretine 'Changeable silk dress goods Carmelite French all-wool, light, plain with small check pattern; now obso- woven dress goods, made of natural lete. wool and similar to fulled; bunting; . 1, the used for clothing by the Carmelite sprigs consist of fine lawn with but- monks. tonholed edges, connected with each Carnauba Leaf fiber yielded by the other by 'brides picotees (see) making the are carnauba palm in Brazil; used for a guipure. 2, sprigs bobbin ropes, cordage, hats, baskets. made and appliqued over a machine- made ground. Garnet -A French bleached linen. Carsey Old English for . Carnestolendas iSilky seed hair yielded by a tree in Venezuela. Carthagena West Indian cotton, grown from American seed; has a fairly Carnival Lace A 16th century , strong staple. similar to the bridal lace in make and worn at festive occasions. Cartisane Parchment; used for padding the cordonnet or the foundation of the Caroa A fiber growing wild in the inter- ipoint laces and also to pad raised em- ior of Brazil and said to be much broidery patterns. stronger than Manila hemp. It is lit- Cartouche French de the tle known as yet- gros Tours, warp is made in repeated ombre, div- Carocolillo 'Cotton yarn dyed red with the ided by stripes at equal distance. It carocol shell in the West Indies. was often given a moire finish; obso- Carole Obsolete, twilled woolen trouser- lete. ing, made in fancy colors with two- Casa East Indian cotton cloth. ply, hard twist warp and single filling. Casban (Stout twilled cotton with Carolina Pride A commercial variety of lining a finish. early maturing cotton from South gloss Carolina, the staple measuring 23-26 Cascara Native Peruvian and Bolivian millimeters and forming clustered name for a cloth-like bast of the bolls; the yield is about 31 per cent. couratari tree; used for blankets, Also called Early Carolina. clothing, ropes, etc. Carol inas in Colombia. Cheap ginghams Plain or printed sheer Caroline 1, plain French serge dress fabric in white or cream color, made goods, made with eight leaves and of cotton, monair or wooi; uised in eight picks in a repeat; 2, bleached England for the household and sum- linen of medium grade, made in mer dresses. Silesia. Cashghar Woolen fabric, made in Kash- Caroline Plaid An early 19th century mir. English dress goods, three-quarters Cashmere 1, very fine and soft wool made with cotton wide, warp and yielded by the . The worsted in filling plaid design. undergrowth is one of the very finest Caroset^-General term for various French animal fibers known, called pashmina, twilled on both sides and while the longer hair is somewhat thoroughly fulled. Also sort of melton, coarser. It is used for the best grades made in the Vendee. of Indian shawls, rugs and also dress Carpet Thick and strong floor covering, goods; 2, a closely woven, soft, fine reversible or otherwise woven, knitted and light dress fabric, made with or felted, made of wool, cotton, hemp, single cotton or wool warp and fine etc. It is made in widths which are Botany filling in a 2-1 weft face twill- sewed together to cover the entire The color eit'ect is usually mixture; floor. 3, soft, loosely woven twilled cotton Carpet Binding A tape to bind the edges dress fabric, printed to imitate the of floor coverings; comes in wool or mixed woolen. 4, knit goods, made of cotton. slack twist Saxony or other fine wors- ted yarn. Carpet Thread Heavy three-ply sewing thread; used for joining carpets. Cashmere Atlas All-wool, highly finished Carpettes 'Coarse French twilled bagging weft satin dress goods, the filling is for raw wool, made of tow, unbleached finer and of slacker twist than the and striped. warp. CAS 35 CAU

Cashmere Shawl One of the finest tex- Castel Branco A good Portuguese car- tiles known, made by the natives of pet wool. and Thibet on hand looms of Castellamare 'Sort of raw cotton from wool of them pashmina (see). Some Italy. are embroidered, showing the pattern Castilla 'Coarse or alike on both sides, others are only homespun imported in one or more colors. The woolen, having a long nap; used for dyed shawls and French cashmere shawl is woven on cloaks by the natives of Peru. .jacquard loom in multi-colored de- signs, which show only on one side. Castinette Obsolete; French etamine The shawls made at the present in dress goods, made with a warp com- Kashmir are inferior in color and de- posed of one strand of hard twist sign. The warp is two-ply while the worsted, usually of dark brown color filling is single yarn. The latter is and several silk strands of a lighter wound around small sticks used as shade- The filling was a two-strand a . silk yarn of dark color, usually brown. Cashmere Twill A closely woven 2-1 Castor 'Heavy, stout, fulled and calen- weft twill weave. dered broadcloth overcoating. Castorine term for 'See Cashmere 1. Obsolete; astrakhan cloth with a short pile; used for win- Cashmerette 1, a twilled, soft and lus- ter coating. trous cotton often fabric, lightly Castravane Raw silk from Asia Minor; napped, made to imitate cashmere; 2, used for braids. fancy woolen for waistcoats; obsolete. Castuli (Philippine fiber; used for cord- 3, twilled dress goods of spun silk age. warp and woolen filling. Catablattion Casimii An all-wool, twilled summer Purple colored silk fabric of the Middle dress goods, made in narrow, diagonal Ages. twill without any , usually of Catacaos A variety of the tree cotton worsted warp and woolen filling. Also from Peru. an obsolete stout twilled French cot- Catalapha A silk fabric mentioned in a ton cloth. 17th century English manuscript. Casinetes Cheap cotton trouserings in Catalowne Same as Buffyn (see), made Bolivia, Peru, etc. with double and twist yarn and a dif- ferent colored Casket Cloth .Light, black fabric, made filling. of wool and cotton; used for covering Catasfittulum A medieval fabric of un- caskets- known structure. Cassas or Cossaes East Indian fine and Catawba A late maturing commercial soft cotton muslin made of very variety of cotton from South Caro- slack twist yarn. lina, the staple measuring 22-25 milli- meters, the yield being 35-36 per cent. Cassimere 1, variety of plain woven or Cate 'East twilled woolen or worsted fabrics, in Caatjes Indian cotton cloth. checks, stripes, etc., soft finished but Catechu, Cutch A dyestuff derived from not napped; used for men's wear; 2, the leaves and wood of various acacia twilled woolen or cotton dress goods, trees in India and marketed as a dark made with two sets of warps in vari- colored paste. Gives a fast, rich ous colors and given a soft finish. brown color. Cassimere Twill An even sided, four Catena White bast fiber, yielded by a harness twill weave, each thread pass- species of the heliocarpus tree in ing alternately over and under two Mexico. threads. Caterpillar Point Rich Italian needle- Cassimerette Cheaper grade of cassi- point lace of the 17th century, the mere. raterpillar-like patterns are outlined with raised cordonnet and connected Cassinett 'Fancy English fa'bric in alpaca with brides picotees. the 19th century. An open, plain woven linen fab- Cassi net English twilled stout trousering ric, made of hardspun yarn and sized; and waistcoating in various colors, used for embroidery. made of fine cotton warp and woolen Cathay East Indian striped satin- yarn dyed in the wool. It is slightly fulled and calendered. The double Catherine Wheel An ornament in em- cassinet is made with alternate wool- broidery to fill up round holes. en and cotton yarn filling. Three- Catifah Obsolete; name for Arabian vel- quarters of the wool filling is thrown vets. on the face and of three-quarters the Cattivella Italian silk dress goods, made cotton is on filling the back of the of fine floret silk. cloth. Cattle Hair Cloth Commercial name for Cast A rough, coarse, bad-bred fleece of a stout twilled fa'bric, containing wool wool. waste and some calf hair, heavy nap Castagnettes Obsolete; double faced is raised by gigging; used for carriage French serge, made of wool, silk and robes. linen yarns. Caul Gold net; used in the Middle Ages Castalogne Fine woolen blanket made in as part of the headdress. France and Spain. Caul Work Obsolete: term for netting. CAU 36 CHA

Caungeantries 'English changeable fab- Chadar or Chadder 1, plain woven cotton ric, made of worsted and silk in the fabric; used for garments in Arabia. 16th century. It has a very wide blue or black warp stripe on one side with two narrow Caustic Soda Used for bleaching and in white weft stripes appearing four printing and especially mer- times at intervals at the ends. The cerizing cotton. Its solution com- "width is about 40 indhes and the pletely disintegrates wool when at length 100 inches; 2, East Indian boiling temperature but concentrated shawl, made of wool or goat's hair, caustic soda is used to give scroop having woven on a solid and luster to wool. figures ground; 3, trade name in East Africa Cavalleys 'Fine dyed cotton fabric, im- for half bleached cotton fabrics, im- ported to England from Central ported from India; used for loin cloth. America in the 18th century. Chadder Ulaya 'Native name in East Af- rica for half cot- Cayenne 1, sort of raw silk from Guy- bleached, bordered ton fabrics ana: 2, lightweight, loosely woven, imported from England; unbleached French linen. used for loin cloth. Chafe Marks In silk Ceara 'Mexican and Brazilian raw cotton, goods displacement of the fibers caused having a fairly clean, medium strong, when the cloth is good, cohesive staple of dull white wet. color. Chafed A flaw in the cloth, caused by cthajfing the yarns. Ceba (Fine and silky cotton, grown in Mexico on the ceba tree. Chaferconne 'Fine East Indian linen fabric, printed in colors (often with Hemp Trade term for a certain hand blocks) ; used for scarfs, muf- grade of Manila (see). hemp flers and handkerchiefs.

Cefiros 1, liht cotton cambric in Colom- Chagrin 1, English book cloth, made of biav often made with white or blue cotton; 2. silk dress goods with peb- warp and white filling; 2, cotton bled surface resembling leather. 3, in Venezuela. narrow rich braid, made of silk or Ceiba 'Yellowish, silky seed hair, grown gold thread. on the Bomibax tree in South America; 'Strong leaf fiber, yielded a used for Chaguar by stuffing. species of the wild pineapple in Ar- Celestine 'A woolen fabric, made in Eng- gentine; used by the natives for land under Edward VI., said to have cordage, , .bags and also for been of light blue color, and made weaving a sort of cuirass. with wide selvage. Chain iSee Warp. Cellular Cloth Term ,for various open Chain Boulee Part of the macrame, made faibrics irrespective of weave or mate- by knitting two threads into a cord. rial. In England an open cotton leno; used for underwear. Chain Cotton Trade name for Brazilian cotton. Celtic A term used in Scotland to denote the hopsack weave, with a satin base. Chain Stitch 'In embroidery and crochet- ing, similar to a chain. Cendal or Obsolete; silk cloth of Chinese origan, made thin in plain Chain Twill A weave producing a twill ' weave; used for lining, flags, etc. similar to a chain. Also a rich silk fabric of the Middle Chain Twist Yarn first made two-ply to Ages. which a third ply is added with a Cendati A medieval silk fabric made in reverse twist. Italy. Chain Weave Piece dyed worsted fabric, Center Fiber In bobbin laces the main finished without any nap, woven in vein of the leaves. double corkscrew.

Cere Cloth A cloth treated with wax; Chainette 1, French serge suiting, made used for wrapping dead bodies in with eight leaves and three or four England; obsolete. Also called cere- picks in a repeat. 2, obsolete; stout ment. twilled French silk vesting, 'made with small patterns. It was usually black. Ceylon A fulled shirting, made of cotton warp and wool and cotton mixture Chakhi A warp faced fabric, made of silk yarn filling, containing little cotton. warp and cotton filling; used in Egypt. Cha Very light and thin Chinese silk of cloth, made in plain weave but usu- Chakmak A Turkish fabric, made often cotton in- ally printed with very silk, with filling, and closely placed with floral patterns; used for summer gar- terwoven gold thread. ments by the natives. Chalinet See . Chabnam Obsolete; very thin East In- Chalk Used in dyeing with sumach and dian cotton muslin. Turkey red. Chacart East Indian calico, printed with Chalk Stripes General term for narrow bright; multi-colored checks. white stripes over a dark ground. CHA 37 CHE

Challi or Challis A very light and soft, Charmoy Indian ribbed silk fabric. dress in the 19th plain woven goods Chasselas Cotton cloth in the West Afri- in made of silk warp century Kngland, can coast trade. and worsted filling or of all wool, fin- ished without any gloss. The figures Chassum >Silk waste, produced in reeling were either woven or usually printed in India. over a white or pale colored ground. Chatoyant French for shot colors. Chalon All-wool, twilled light English Chats Fulled French woolen, made with dress calendered suiting and fabric, white and blue or black filLing; in warp on the face, and usually made obsolete. black, about one yard wide. Chattan A Highland tartan, worn by the See Challis. Chalys chiefs of the clan Ch.; it is composed Chambers A commercial variety ot cot- as follows: *narrow black and white late ma- ton from South Carolina, the line; wide dark green stripe; white 22-25 milli- turing staple measuring line; yellow, red (split with black 32 meters, the yield of lint being per line) and yellow stripes of equal cent. width, these three together being as Chambery Very light French dress goods, wide as the green; white line; gray made with silk warp and goat hair stripe, somewhat narrower than tilling. green; black stripe, being half the Chamblette .Seventeenth century English width of the gray; red stripe, same * same as pure or silk mixed worsteds, watered as black ; yellow stripe, with a white line; re- or plain. gray, split peat, in reversed order, group de- Chambord 'French mourning dress goods, * scribed between two ; red bar, one- of all-wool. The some- made warp third in width of entire group. times contains silk or is made of cotton. It is woven with ribbed ef- Chaussettes White thread hosiery made fect, often with alternating heavy and in Vitre, France, by the peasants. light ribs. Chavonnis .Sheer East Indian cotton Chambray Plain woven light dress goods, muslin. made of cotton or silk with a dank A corded silk velvet from brown, bladk, etc., warp and Chayong blue, 'China. 'white filling. Gingham 'Fine cotton ging- Cheanyes Seventeenth century English Chambray made in believed ham, given a glossy finish; comes worsted, Norwich; to been watered. mostly in solid colors. have lace from Champ Same as fond (see). Chebka Hand-made Tunis, made with Moorish designs; used for Cluster A commercial Champion variety dresses and furniture. of late maturing American cotton, the staple measuring 25-28 millimeters, Check A pattern in weave, produced by the yield of lint being 30-31 per cent. two or more yarns of warp and filling Chandar Unbleached, bleached, dyed or of the same color.

printed cotton cloth, exported to India- Checks il, medieval English worsted fab- Chandul East Indian fiber, yielded by the rics; 2, blue and white or red and Lepuranda succidora; used for bag- white checked fabrics, made as linen ging. checks, cotton checks and mixed checks. Changeable Effect A color effect exten- sively applied in silk fabrics, produced Check Canvas Open embroidery canvas usually by weaving the cloth of dif- containing double and single threads, ferent colored, yarn dyed warp, and both in the warp and filling, which weft. produce a plaid-like effect. Changeant 1, all-wool, French camlot; Check Mohair .Made of mohair with obsolete; 2, see changeable. small checks in white ground; used Originally white linen, for children's dresses in England. later black silk bobbin lace of fine Muslin White muslins with col- net untwisted flat cordonnet Checked ground, ored cord or checks and and delicate flowers. The ground is stripes plaids; used for etc. the socalled double ground. dresses, curtains, Chappe or Schappe Silk 'Waste silk which Checlatoun Rich medieval silk fabric; has only a part of its material gum see Ciclatoun. removed means of it in by soaking Cheese ClothA cheap, plain woven, very water or fermentation. by loose, soft open faced, white or col- Charara Long staple cotton grown in ored, light cotton fabric, made of sin- Egypt. gle yarns and used for wrapping Chardonnet Silk An artificial silk named cheese, for underlining, curtains, flags, after its inventor, made by dissolving etc. nitrated cellulose in ether. Chekeratus 13th checked fab- Charkhana Checked muslin of cotton and A century ric; used the clergy. silk or pure cotton in India, four-ply by colored the checks. threads, forming Chelais Plain woven cotton fabric; used Chartreuse A very light silk satin crepe for loin cloths and scarfs in East with a pebbled effect on the back; India; it is made with a checked or the face is finished with a high lustre. striped border and a wide heading. CHE CHI

Chelem A variety of sisal from Yucatan. Cheviot Britch Britch wool from the Chelos East Indian calico shirting, print- cheviot fleece. ed with fancy colored checks or plaids- Cheviot Shirting 'Stout, twilled cotton Chemical Fibei One which is not made shirting made of coarse yarn; the by nature, as the vegetable and ani- pattern consists of small dobby de- or mal fibers are, but which are pro- signs fancy warp stripes, formed duced artificially through chemical by single warps and ribs by double process, like the artificial silk. warps. It comes usually in blue or brown, while the filling is white. Chenille A cotton, wool or silk yarn, Chevrette Hair obtained having a pile protruding all around from the skin of the at right angles; similar to a cater- Angora kid by a liming pro- cess. pillar; used as weft for fancy goods, curtains, and carpets; also for em- Chevron 1, same as (see); broidery and fringes. It is woven in 2, French serge dress goods, made gauze weave with cotton or linen warp with eig'ht leaves and four picks in a and silk, wool or cotton filling; the repeat. warp threads are taped in groups and Chichi Rugs All-wool rugs made in Cau- the filling beaten in very closely. casia; the pile is of medium length, After weaving the fabric is cut be- tied in Ghiordes knot. The colors are tween the bunches of warps, and the dark, blue is often used. The pattern the chenille. latter twisted, forming consists of irregular and varied fig- Chenille Axminster A cut pile carpet, ures in the field, of crosses, conven- made by binding printed chenille tionalized flowers and geometrical thread from side to side, to tlhe foun- designs. There is a wide border of dation. several stripes, iBoth ends are fin- ished with a narrow knotted Chenille CarpetOriginal name for the fringe. patent Axminster (see). 1, general term for bleached cot- ton shirtings in Roumania; 2, a very- Chenille Cloth -Made with cotton wool or light, transparent fabric, made of silk silk and chenille yarn warp filling; in plain weave; it is very soft and used for millinery. pliable; 3, used in connection with Chenille Lace French lace of other textile terms, as velvet, etc., to the 18th century; it has a hexagonal denote

China Finish In England a very bright Chioggia Lace Coarse, Italian bobbin finish given {0 cotton fabrics (mostly lace, similar to the early Flanders made for export) by using a heavy laces. of china clay and calendering. Chique Inferior French raw silk; used China Grass See Ramie. for threads. China Jute Bast fiber of the Indian mal- Chiquechique Very strong, durable and leaves low. light fiber, yielded by the of a palm in Venezuela; used for brooms, China Mull Very soft, light, plain woven ropes, and cordage. fabric, made of cotton and silk. Chirimen Japanese lusterless silk crepe, China Ribbon A now obsolete very nar- the warp and filling consisting of row ribbon in solid or fancy colors; equally thick yarns; the filling yarn used for book markers or to embroider is twisted to the right and to the with. left; the fabric is dyed in the piece. China Steam Filature Very brilliant, Chisholm Even sided Highland tartan, strong and white and regular raw made as follows: Wide bright red and silk, reeled in 13/15 deniers in north- narrower dark green bars alter- ern China on modern machinery. nating. The red bars are spdit with Graded in 3 classes; Nos. 1 and 2 for a pair of white lines in the middle. organzine; No. 3 for tram. The green bars are edged with three blue stripes ((wider on the but woolen outside, Chinchilla A heavy spongy narrower inside), and are split with overcoating or cloaking, made with a red line in the middle. one or two sets of warp and from Chitrak Turkish fabric, made with cot- one to four sets of filling. It is made ton warp and silk filling. with 'plain or fancy back. The face is woven with long floats, formed by Chitrang Bast 'fiber, yielded by the Ster- culia in fine, slack twist thread, which is Wightii China; used for cord- teazled into a long nap and rubbed age. into curly nubs in the finishing by Chits Plain and close woven fine calico special machinery. from East India. Chine General term for various designs Chiverett Eighteenth certury woolen or colors printed in faint and indefi- fabric in England; see Cheverett. nite outlines on the warp before the Chlidema Square Carpet made 27 inches weaving of certain fabrics, as taf- wide, with an unmitered border. de serges and satins. feta, gros Tours, Chloralum A 25 cent solution of alu- In velvet the design printed per warp pile minum chloride; used in carbonizing is about six times the on the warp wool. length of the pattern seen in the finished fabric, owingto the "take-in" Chloride of Chrome Used as mordant for during the weaving. alizarine on silk and cotton. Chinese Burr Triumfetta pilosa of Chlorinated Wool Which was treated Queensland, Australia; yields a clean, with solution of hydrochloric acid; etrong, lustrous, soft and fairly resil- such wool is very harsh, does not felt, ient fiber, similar to jute. has a high gloss and a greater affinity for Chinese Jute White, lustrous, fairly dyes. Chlorination strong 'fiber, yielded by the Indian A process consisting of mallow. treating all-wool or union fabrics iwith an acid solution of bleaching Ching Ma Silky and strong fiber in powder, which increases the strength China, yielded by the abutilon plant; of the wool, gives it a luster and used for cordage. harsih feel; makes it unshrinkable and unfelting and increases its affinity Chintz 1, general term in Russia for all- for cotton cloths, printed in simple de- dyes. signs, stripes, checks, flowers, etc.; 2, Chlorine iSee Bleaching Powder. cotton cloth of plain, sometimes da- Choel 'Strong fi'ber, obtained from the mask or diaper weave, made with young roots of the Butea tree in hard fine warp, often taped and gum spun, India; used for cordage. a much coarser, slack twist filling, printed with flowers, birds, and other Choice 1, merino clothing wool taken patterns, in bright colors on white or from the best part of the neck of a colored ground, and glazed by calen- fine fleece; 2, in the woolen trade the dering; used for furniture coyer and third quality of wool, taken from the drapery. Originally from India. The middle of the sides. full chintz has a ground in two Cholet 1, unbleached light French linen, shades of madder red, while the half finished without any dressing; 2, chintz is on white or only printed fancy colored handkerchiefs; 3, light- cream ground. weight linen with narrow blue and Chintz Braid

Choquettes French term for cocoons of Citamci An inferior grade of sisal fiber diseased silkworms. from Yucatan. of and Chop Brands Chinese Japanese Civil Coarse but strong bast fiber, yield- raw or reeled silks. ed 'by a species of the Malvaceae in Choppat Bast Indian lightweight silk Mexico. taffeta. Claires 'Fine, open batiste, made in Chosheb In the Bible textiles having France. patterns woven with gold on a varie- gated ground. Claith 'Scotch mill parlance for cloth. Chouca Strong leaf fiber, yielded by spe- Clandian 'Fine, lightweight woolen sum- cies of the aloe in South America; mer dress goods, consisting of alter- used for cordage. nating stripes of a dark color inter- Chowtar East Indian cotton muslin. changed with a number of lighter colored threads and of mix- Chrome Fluoride Used in mordanting stripes ture or mottled colors. wool- Clarines 'See Claires. Chrysoclavus Rich Byzantine fabric, made of white or purple silk, embroid- Classical The second best grade of raw ered with large gold nail heads; worn silk. by state dignitaries. Classing Process of dividing the fleeces sisal fiber from Chucumci Hard, rough into groups, according to their quali- Yucatan. ties. Chuddah 'Solid colored wool shawl, made Classiques French, stout, all-cotton in India of pashmina in very fine twill on hand looms. sheetings. Chuddei See Chadar. Clauthse Very soft, obsolete French woolen trousering and coating, made Chumese East Indian trade name for with a comparatively very heavy sunn hemp (see). warp; fulled in the finish; obsolete. Chuna South American descend- sheep, English worsted serge ant of the Clays Originally Spanish merino, yields for men's wear, made of slack twist long wool. warp and filling, woven with six-har- Cliuncu iBast fiber, yielded by the Cala- ness twill, forming very flat diagonals dium tree in Peru. and finished with a soft 'but clear Chunri Piece dyed cotton fabric in In- handle. as the bandanna handker- dia, dyed Clear Finish Fabrics having the nap re- chiefs are. moved from the face, .showing the Chuquelas 'Striped Indian , made weave. of silk and cotton. Tartan A tartan formerly used Church Laces (Needle laces of the Clergy point the Scotch Highland clergy for 17th used for ecclesiastical by century; wear. It consisted of wide with of every day purposes, originally designs dark blue and black bars of even Biblical character. width. The -black bars were split Chusan Dress goods of cotton warp and in the middle with a fine green stripe. worsted filling, with Jacquard pat- The blue bars were alternately split terns; obsolete. by a pair of fine green stripes or five fine green stripes. The latter Ciciclia (Silk or half-silk damask dress arranged in pairs at the edge and one goods 'figured with flowers over satin in the middle. All green stripes were foundation; made in Asia Minor. edged with a fine black line. or -Medieval Ciclatoun, Siglaton, Cyclas Cle Ball of thread or yarn- golden fabrics in Europe; originated from Persia. Clinchamps 'Coarse French canvas of Cinq Trous French lace made with a hemp. five sided mesh ground. Clinquant Flat gold braid for military Cintas General term for ribbon in I^atin- uniforms. America. Clip One season's yield of wool. Bulgarian tufted made of Ciporovica rug, Clippings Irregular small pieces of cloth, native wool on hand looms. the waste of the cutting room; used CircassianEnglish worsted fabric of the for patch work, , or are re- 19th century. worked into shoddy. Circassian Rugs All-wool rugs, made in Clisson Obsolete, medium fine, bleached, Asia Minor; the short and loose pile French linen shirting, made 28 and 42 is tied in Ghiordes knot, both ends inches wide. are 'finished with a narrow, knotted of woolen, wors- fringe; usually elementary colors ara Cloaking Large variety fabrics used for cloaks or being used, white extensively. ted or silk coats; usually of heavier weight, as 'French Circassienne twilled summer chinchillas, sibeline, etc. dress goods, similar to cashmere, made of pure wool or cotton warp Clochepied Three-thread organzine for first two and woolen filling, dyed in the wool- gauze; made by twisting the It was made in solid or mixed colors; threads together, then adding now obsolete. third thread. CLO 41 coc

Clock Embroidery at the ankles of the Clout Pieces and remnants of cloth, quite hosiery, consisting of two lines meet- valueless. ing at an angle, one line going up Clouties English linen cloth. the leg, the other toward the toe. In French is called coin. Clove English measure of wool, equal to 7.7 pounds. Close Leaf In bobbin-made sprigs leaves Club Check Small checks in two- entirely filled out with cloth stitches. quiet colored effects. Close Stitch In needle-point laces all Cluny 1, a sort of darned net- buttonhole stitches made without any originally ting with raised stitches; 2, at the loops. present a bobbin guipure lace with Cloth 1, general term for fulled woolen geometric patterns. term for fabrics; 2, general any tex- Cluny Guipure^Hand-made lace, the pat- tile fabric having some body; 3, me- terns being worked over square net- dieval English worsted made six ting ground, similar to the darned net yards long and two yards wide. laces. Cloth of Areste Medieval rich fabric Cluny Tapestry iStout, thick fabric made woven with gold figures; used for in England with woolen warp and church vestments. silk filling, forming warp cords; used for Cloth Blanket Made in plain weave and hangings. slightly napped. Coarse Bobs In England same as cable net. Cloth of Bruges Gold brocaded silk fab- ric; used for church vestments in Coarse Tow The entire fiber of flax, af- England during the Middle Ages. ter the shives have been removed. Cloth of Cologne Medieval fabric made 'Piece of stout canvas tarred or at Cologne, Germany, with gold pat- painted and nailed around the mast terns over blue or other colored silk or pumps of the ship where they en- foundation. ter the deck- Cloth Embroidery In Asiatic countries Coating 'Heavy woolen, worsted, also work made of joining together vari- silk fabrics of a great variety of ous shaped and colored small pieces weaves and patterns; used for outer- of cloth with the aid of fancy stitches. garments. Fa'brics mentioned in old Cobbler In England which manuscripts, made entirely of gold have been returned because of unsat- wire, narrow flat strips of gold, or isfactory make or dye. imixed with other as silk. fibers, Cobourg or Coburg An English fabric in- Cloth Ingrain Medieval English worsted, troduced after the marriage of Queen worn by the rich. Victoria; made of closely placed silk or cotton Cloth of Pall Rich medieval silk fabric warp and worsted filling, woven in a dyed in crimson; used for church 2/1 cashmere twill weave; vestments- used for coat lining and dress goods. They come dyed in the piece or Cloth of Raynes Fine medieval linen, printed. originally from Brittany; used for shirts and bed linen. Cobweb 1, name applied to very sheer hosiery; 2, a commercial variety of Cloth An 18th Serge century English late maturing cotton from 'Mississippi, serge, made of worsted warp and the very fine and silky 'meas- woolen staple filling. uring 35-40 millimeters; the yield Is Cloth Stitch In bobbin laces interlacing '28-29 per cent. the threads like the weaving of a Crimson dye derived from the cloth. dried 'bodies of the coccus cacti, small Cloth of Tars A costly medieval fabric, insects in Central America, and mar- believed to 'be of silk and cashmere keted as fine . It is ground up wool; usually dyed purple. in hot water and is still used for mordant dyeing wool and silk. Clothing Wool Of short fiber unfit to comb and used in the manufacture of Cochran A commercial variety of cotton woolens. It possesses the property of from Georgia, the staple measuring felting readily. Also called carding 35-40 millimeters; the yield is 32-33 wool. per cent. Clouding Process of producing large Cockle 1, flaw in the fabric, showing as spots on silk fabrics in the dyeing. puffs, blisters or crimpiness; caused in the .finishing or by unequal tension Cloudy 1, defect in the cotton sliver of the yarn in the weaving; 2, flaw caused by thick uncarded rough in the cotton yarn, consisting of knots, places; 2, defect in thin yarn, showing caused by the mixing of short and and thick places; 3, defect in the long staple. piece dyed fabrics, showing uneven- ness in color. Cocuiza A strong, smooth fiber, yielded by the leaves of the Furcraea gigantea Cloudy Yarn 1, fancy ply yarn, having in Venezuela; used for ropes, bags, flakes held by the strands; 2, ply yarn etc. with irregular twist, made by alter- nately twisting the different colored Cocoa nada East Indian cotton, having a strands around each other. short staple of dull brown color. coc 42 CON

Cocoon An oval shell, consisting of raw Colquhoun A Highland tartan, consisting silk, spun by the silkworm around it- of the following: Black bar, dark blue self. The outer and inner layers can bar, twice as wide, split by a pair be used only for floss or spun silk, of black lines in the center, black while at>out 10 per cent of the weight bar, narrow white stripe, two dark can be reeled off in a single filament, green bars, each as wide as the black, averaging about 300 yards in length. separated by a red line; a narrow About Ii2 pounds of cocoons will yield white stripe. one of raw silk. If the pound chrysalis Colthorp Pride A commercial variety of is to the cocoon and permitted pierce late maturing cotton from Louisiana; the eilk can be used for escape, only the staple measures 28-32 millimeters; silk. spun the yield is 28-30 per cent. Cocos Fibei Same as (see). Comaca 'Silky, yellowish seed hair of the Codilla The scutching tow, a coarse by- Bombax tree in British Guiana. product or waste of the flax and hemp. Comashes A fabric mentioned in 17th Fancy English alpaca fabric century English manuscripts, as im- Codrington from in the 19th century. ported Turkey; structure and composition unknown. Coeur Fleuri 'French ticking and linen, Combed Yarn 1, cotton yarn made of woven w.ith small figures geometrical combed, hard or and bleached- long staple cotton, slack twist, and used for hosiery, Coffin Cloth Made with cotton warp and underwear, sewing thread, laces, and woolen filling in plain weave, dyed fine cotton fabrics; 2, worsted yarn, black; used for lining coffins and for made of top and used for worsted shrouds. fabrics. Process which the Cogware A coarse English woolen fab- Combing by short fibers are the ric of the 15-th century, made like a (noil) separated from fibers latter . long and the are straight- ened out and laid parallel to each Cohras Prints East Indian colored cot- other. Combing wool is at least 1% tons; the design is printed with wax, inches long, of good strength and used which throws off the coloring matter for worsteds. which the is with. The ground dyed Ordinaire Coarse French is later removed. Combourg wax linen. 'French for clock Coin (see). Comeback Wool Yielded by the sheep Coir Reddish brown, strong, stiff and which is the crossing ot a half-brecf elastic fiber, yielded by the outer shell ewe with a merino ram; this is ai of the unripe cocoanut; used for English trade term. mats, cordage, etc. iSee Quilt. Colbertan Lace Coarse French lace Commercial Twins 'Made of cotton; named after Colbert, with ground of used in stores to tie packages. square . Commodore 'Stout English navy drill. Colchonetas 'Cotton quilts filled with Common Twill An even sided four-har- in Cuba. ness twill weave, each thread passing over Colias Coarse Philippine 'fiber; used for and under two threads alter- cordage. nately. Twine Trade term in Scotland and Company's Very .fine, natural England for a coarser and cheaper buff colored, broad, Chinese cotton cloth. grade of cable thread. Composition cotton Collar Velvet Fine silk velvet of very ClothWaterproofed or linen duck; used for short used for collars. bags, covers, pile; etc. Collette Unbleached canvas of medium Comptah East Indian cotton, having a grade. weak staiple of dull brown color, Colombiana In the Philippine Islands usually containing large quantity of worsted piece dyed lastings. broken leaves- Colombo Yarn Second grade of coir Condeaux Stout, half bleached hemp yarn; made in Ceylon; used for ropes canvas. and fabrics. coarse Conditioning Process to ascertain the Colonial Silk English trade term for arti- percentage of moisture present in ficial silk- the textile fibers or fabrics. Colorado River Hemp 'See Wild Hemp. Cone Large bobbins on which cotton and woolen yarn is wound from the spin- Colored Goods Trade term denoting all dles for the use of knitting machines. sorts of printed and dyed fabrics as It is cone shaped at one end. against white goods. Congo Red The first artificial dyestuff Colored Grays Gray mixture woolen fab- imade which would dye cotton di- rics, having other colored yarns in- rectly. terwoven. Congress Canvas Strong, open face cot- Colored TwillSolid colored, twilled cot- ton or woolen canvas made of hard ton fabric; used for drapery. spun thread; used for embroidery. CON 43 COR

Conkanee Hemp Trade name for sunn Cord Braid A soutache with a cord in hemp. the middle. Connaught Open cotton canvas for em- Cord de Chine A lightweight fabric of see broidpry; Basket Cloth. botany warp and eilk filling; two Connaught Yarn Soft, fine, loose woolen warp ends are in each , forming yarn for knitting: made in Ireland. cords. Constitution A variety of corduroy, hav- Cord Stitch In embroidery and needle ing broad races. laces, a thread twisted around by an- other thread. Con tallies Inferior French silk, made of floret silk. Cordaline Strong linen or silk thread at the Convent Plain woven woolen dress goods selvedge of -many silk fabrics. with two or three-ply warp and sin- Cordat 1, strong French canvas, made igle filling, made in solid colors and of tow; 2, heavy, all-wool coarse in stripes, mixtures, etc. French serge, thoroughly fulled. Convent Cloth A very light dress goods, Corde Closely woven heavy silk dress made with wool warp and silk filling, goods, made in France, with narrow having a pebbled face. warp ribs. The color was usually norw Convict Stripes Cotton fabrics made in black; obsolete. England for the export trade; have Corded 'Fabrics having ribs running one inch wide filling tripes in black lengthwise (produced by the warp) over white ground. crosswise (produced by the weft) or Cook A commercial variety of late ma- diagonally (produced by a twill turing cotton from Mississippi; the weave). staple measures 35-40 millimeters; Corded Dimity EngMsh dimity, made of the yield is 26-28 per cent. goat's hair. Coothay East Indian satin made with Cordelat 1, stout twilled woolen cloth, colored stripes. made around Aure, France. 2, coarse, Cop A conical shape into which cotton or long napped woolen dress goods from worsted weft yarn is wound over a Languedoc, France. 3, light loosely Tvoven paper tube or a bare which is woolen, finished like a flannel, spindle, from withdrawn after the winding. The Beauvais, France. yarn is crossing itself at sharp angles. Cordelat Molleton Heavy grades of cord- Copees East Indian gingham with fancy elats. check patterns. Cordelat Refins Cordelats, made of fine Copou Very light Chinese muslin, made yarn. of vegetable fibers; used for wearing Cordeliere Obsolete; smoothly finished apparel- French serge, made in part of Span- Copper Sulphate Used in after treating ish merino wool. direct used dyes; also in catechu and Cordelia Lace, aniline black having patterns outlined dyeing. with a heavy thread over a net foun- Coptic Cloths Various linen, woolen and dation. mixed fabrics, used formerly as mum- Corderette 18th my wrappings and recovered from century woolen fabric old in England. Egyptian tombs. The weave is plain or twilled, the latter often showing Cordettes French cloth made of hemp striped and geometric designs. for headdress.

Coquita Strong bark fiber, yielded r>y Cordetum A coarse fabric; used in me- the Jubaea spectabilis, a palm tree in dieval England. Chile; used for ropes. Cordillat Heavy French iwoolen dress Coquille In French hand ma,le lace? with goods, not felted; obsolete. See also shell like or fan shaped edges. Cordelat. Corah 'East Indian light, washable silk Cordington A heavy boucle. dress goods of natural cream or Cordon 'French term for cord, made of white color. various materials; used for trimming- Coral Stitch In embroidery a stitc.h hav- Cordoncillos Coarse, a stem from plain woven, ing which short and bleached or unbleached cotton fab- paraaiel branches start out at an ric; used for garments by the poorer angle. classes in Mexico. Coralline Point Italian needle-point lace, Cordonnet 1, raised outer of the similar to the Venise edge point, having point lace in Alencon, made of horse- coral like trailing patterns. hair and completely covered with Coram Bleached German linen, made stitches; 2, crochet, knitting or em- very stout of heavy warp and finer broidery silk yarn, made of three filling. threads twisted together to the right, each thread from four to Cord 1, in needle-point laces the composed raised eight filaments twisted or padded part of the loosely to the pattern, also left. called Cordonnet. 2, corded dress goods, like , rep, faille, Bed- Cordonnet en Laine Cord, made of wool ford, etc. 3, or twine, made of cotton, or camel's hair; used for upholstery, jute, but mostly hemp of various etc sizes measured by inches in diame-ter. Cordonnet Silk See Cordonnet 2. COR 44 COT

Cordonnet Yarn Heavy and usually two- Corteza del Damajuhato 'A fibrous bast, ply cotton yarn, each strand number- yielded by the Couratari tree in ing below 10. It is made of combed Brazil; used for clothing. stock, given a comparatively slack twist and gassed once or twice. Cosmos 'Fibers recovered from flax or jute rags tearing them Cordons Gold or silver braid. by up. Cordova Raw wool from Argentine. Cossa 'East Indian unprinted cotton Cordovan Embroidery Applique work by fabric. out the of cutting patterns oilcloth, Cossack CordEnglish stout, bleached it over coarse canvas of which pasting woolen, twilled and finely striped; ob- the patterns are shaped out and the solete. two are sewed to a foundation of serge. Cossai^-Coarse East Indian calico. woolen Cordurette^Plain woven fabric, Cot "Matted or felted part of the fleece. made with weft ribs. Cote French term for ribbed. Corduroy Cotton pile fabric, dyed in an the piece, the pile being formed of Cote Anglaise Faconnee Solid colored extra slack twist set of filling, form- iFrench serge, made with eight leaves wise used for ing warp ribs; trous- and eight picks in a repeat. ers, dresses, etc. 2, stockings knit- ted with two ribs alternating on the Cote de Cheval Cotton, wool or silk fab- face and back. ric, made with warp ribs, similar to the Bedford cord. Core YarnMade with a central thread, around which is wound a covering of Cote Menue French serge dress goods, more fibers, the core usually expensive made with 10 leaves and five concealed. core picks in being The Urgoite a repeat. yarn consists of a core of paper wrapped around with jute, flax, hemp, Cote Pali The warp is of fine linen, the also wool. The etc., Leclercq-Dupire filling of hard twist silk, made very is for the of core process making light and sheer in fancy colored yarn with cotton core which measures pat- terns finished with size; also made of as much as 70 per cent of the total silk and wool and a worsted covering. warp filling or cotton warp and grege filling; obsolete. Cork Carpet Has a layer of ground cork pressed over a coarse and strong cot- Cote Piquee Solid colored French serge ton or jute foundation. having eight leaves and eight picks in a repeat. Corkscrew 1, a weave composed of the of 40 the mini- regular degrees, Cote Satinee (French serge of solid colors, mum number of harnesses being five made with eight leaves and eight and the maximum 13; 2, a warp picks in a repeat. faced fabric, woven in fancied re- semblance to a corkscrew; the best Cote Syrienne Solid colored French grades have French yarn worsted serge, having eight leaves and eight warp, while the filling can be of cot- picks in a repeat. ton or wool; used for men's wear and Cotelaine flaw in doubled 'Bleached, corded muslin in tops; 3, yarns, France. consisting of one yarn being loosely the other. coiled around Cotele 'French for wide, flat ribs. Corojo Long and strong leaf fiber, yield- Coteline ribbed dress the ed by the corojo palm in Central and Warp goods, South America; used for ropes. heavy cotton ribs alternating with four or six fine warp threads. The Coromandel 'Coarse English cotton fab- is often in two ric for the African trade. filling colors; used for summer dresses. It is often printed Coronation Cloth 'Fulled mixture suiting in colors on white foundation; also in black, blue and red colors, brought made in silk. out at the coronation of Edward VII. and II. George Coti Americano Bed ticking in Chile, Corotte Coarse East Indian calico. usually stiffened. Corsery East Indian cotton cloth. Cotillion Black and white striped woolen Jean Very strong, stout jean, dress fabric. made of cotton or in twill pure linen, Coton Azul /Stiffened , made with or broken twill weave, in white, and blue warp and white filling in Chile. for , etc. Coton- Pierre Trade name for Brazilian Corset Lace A narrow cotton braid; used cotton. to lace corsets with. Corsicaine 'French silk dress goods, made Cotonine Stout and very strong cloth, with printed warp. It has small made of cotton warp and hemp filling; squares placed on the bias over black used for household purposes, sails, etc. or colored ground. Cotonis Fabric from India, made In Cortega A white, tough bast fiber in fancy patterns of silk warp and fine Panama; used for cordage. cotton filling. COT 45 cou

Cotton 1, fiber yielded by the seed pod Cotton Blanket Cloth Very soft, napped, of the Gossypium shrub, grown in all-cotton cloth, made with two sets sub-tropical countries, shewing about of warp and one filling, the face and 130 different varieties. The fiber is the back of the cloth being reverse either white or yellowish, in many of each other; used for , cases turning into reddish brown, the blankets, etc. average length varying between 0.89 Cotton Checks In blue and and 1.61 inches, the coarsest and England white checked or shortest commercial varieties coming striped, all-cotton cloth. from India, the finest and longest from Sea Island and along the shores Cotton Ferrets Cheap bindings or un- or Georgia and Carolina. Under mi- sized tapes in England in gray or crosco'pe the cotton fiber is similar to black. a twisted ribbon and consists chiefly of cellulose. The main commercial Cotton Thread See Sewing Cotton. varieties are the Sea Island, Ameri- Cotton Velvet See . can (upland), Egyptian, Peruvian, Cotton Trade term for fabrics Brazilian, West Indian, East Indian, Warp hav- Turkish and Chinese. The commercial ing a cotton warp and wool filling. full grades of the American cottons Cotton Weave^Same as plain weave. are: Fair, middling fair, good midd- Cotton Worsted Smooth finished twilled ling, middling, low middling, good or- cloth, made of hard twist 'cotton dinary and ordinary; the half grades yarn woven and finished to imitate worsted are: Strict middling fair, strict cloth; used for over- middling, strict middling, cheap clothing, good coats. strict low middling, strict good ordinary and strict ordinary; the Cottonade Originally plain, also serge or quarter grades are: Barely fair, twill woven all-cotton fabrics made midd- fully middling fair, barely with single yarns and heavy filling, ling fair, fully good middling, barely made in solid colors, checks, stripes, good middling, fully middling, barely plaids, etc., always dyed in the yarn; middling, fully low middling, barely used for dress goods, table cloths, etc., low middling, fully good ordinary, and the stronger grades for . barely good ordinary. The grades of Cottonette 1, knitted cotton cut the Indian cotton are: Fair, good fair, fabric, and made up into bathing suits. 2, and fine, the Egyptian cotton good cotton fabric, containing one-third has three: Fair, good fair and good,; wool. the South American cottons have Cottonee Cotton back silk satin, made in three: Middling fair, fair and good Turkey. fair. The grades for Sea Island cot- ton are: Ordinary, common medium, Cotton ize See Fibrilize. good medium, medium, medium fine, Cottonwood Yields soft, fibrous bark; fine, extra fine. used by the Western Indian tribes for The standard American bale meas- ropes, garments, etc. ures 54x27x27 inches and weighs 500 Cotts 'Brittle and matter parts in the pounds. The bessonette bale is a wool, caused by poor feed. of 22 inches cylinder shape diameter, Couche See Velours Couche. and 34 or 48 inches long, weighing 275 in or 425 pounds. The average weights Couching >1, embroidery heavy threads are laid on the foundation and fastened of the other cotton bales are: Indian to it by another finer thread. It is 390 700 pounds, Egyptian pouunds, used especially in church embroidery. Brazilian about 200 Levant pounds, It is flat or raised; 2, a very thick, (great divergence) about 300 pounds. two-strand thread made of mercerized Cotton burns freely. It is decom- cotton, wool or silk; used for embroid- and posed by concentrated nitric acid, but ery fancy work. concentrated sulphuric acid renders it Count A number indicating the size or more elastic, resembling horsehair. fineness of a yarn. 1, for cotton yarn it is the of Cotton is not or very little affected number hanks (each meas- uring 840 to by solution of sulphuric acid. Cold yards) necessary weigh one pound; 2, for linen one lea alkalies or their solutions have no yarns (300 yards) per pound is the unit; 3, effect on cotton but hot solutions de- for woolen and worsted yarns 560 stroy the fiber. Concentrated solution yards per pound is the unit; there of caustic soda causes mercerization are five different French systems for (see). the numbering of worsted yarns: The metric system, measuring 496 yards 2, in Austria and Germany a cheap, per pound; the new 354 woven cotton fabric made of Roubaix, plain yards per pound; the old Roubaix, 708 fine comes yarn, usually printed and yards per pound; the Reims, 347 used for shirts, etc. yards per pound and the Fourmies, 352 for Cotton Back iSilk fabrics, mostly satins, yards per pound; 4, silk 840 made with cotton back. yards. The count of a cloth is ex- pressed by the number of warp and Cotton Bagging Very coarse and heavy weft threads contained in a square jute bagging; used for baling cotton. inch or other standard unit. GOU 46 CRA

Coupling process In dyeing the applica- CoxcombSee Bar. tion of an organic compound to a fab- Crabbing A finishing process, ric which is dyed already, thus form- consisting of stretching the fabric by it ing an insoluble color. passing over a steaming roller. The object Couratari In South America a fibrous is to set the fabric at a certain width- bast of the same tree; used for blank- Crack A flaw in the fabric, consisting ets, clothing, clothes, etc. of an open space across the fabric. Courimari In Venezuela the fibrous bast It is caused by the action of tne beat- of the Couratari tree; used for er when a pick is missed. etc. blankets, clothes, Craiganputtach A Scotch tweed. Couronne Little loops on the outer edge Crammed Certain parts of a fabric are of the cordonnet (see). said to be crammed when they con- Courtaille 'Coarse French hemp canvas. tain more thread per unit space than Courte Pointe Bed quilts, made in in another part of the cloth; usually 'France of pique or calico and stuffed made with several warps through one with cotton batting. dent. Courtrai 'French bobbin lace similar to the Cranky iBed ticking, made of linen and Val, the threads of the mesh ground cotton with irregular patterns. 'being twisted three and a half times. Cranston A highland tartan, composed of Coutance Strong, French ticking, made of dark blue and light blue stripes and plain hemp. red and blue lines. Crapaud (French for mispick. Couteline 1, coarse stout cotton ticking of East Indies, striped blue and Crapaudaille Fine silk crepon in France. of flax white; 2, French ticking made Crape In the 18th century a woolen fab- yarn with bright colored stripes. ric in England, made either crimped for 1, French and German stout drills, deep mourning or smooth; 2, the made of linen, hemp or cotton; 2, extremely fine knitting on some of the French and English fabrics, made of 'Shetland shawls. 3, see Crepe. used for bed pure cotton; covers, Crape Cloth Crinkled black woolen cloth, drapery, trousers, etc., often printed; dyed black; used for mourning. 3, a fine worsted trousering in France; Craping Process of rendering a fabric 4, very strong, stout cotton or linen crimpy or crapy. The most fabric, woven in herringbone twill; important processes are: the used for corsets. 1, filling is com- posed of right hand twist and left Brin Coarse French Coutils de ticking. hand twist yarns, interchanged at Coutil Facon de Bruxelles (French coutil every two or four picks; 2, certain (see), made with narrow stripes. warp threads are wound on a separate beam and held Coutil Jaspe Obsolete; French coutil much slacker than the rest of the (see), made with two-ply linen warp, ends, forming stripes of composed of two different colored crepe; 3, cotton is treated with caus- tic wool or silk strands, and single linen yarn filling. soda, with concen- trated It was made 30 inches wide and used sulphuric acid for a short time at certain for sporting and working clothes. places, producing crepe el- feet; 4, warp and made of Coutille 'French of zigzag pattern filling jean different fibers with different shrink- for corsets. See Coutil 4. age; 5, combinations of these pro- Coventry 'Bright blue worsted yarn made cesses; 6, produced by causing the in England and 'used for embroidery; fabric to adhere at certain parts to obsolete. stretched rubber which, when will Coventry Cloths 17th century English released, cause the crinkle. 7, worsteds. produced by using yarns of various degree of twist. Cover Appearance of fullness and dens- ity in the cloth, given by the nap. Craquele Net Machine-made net with ir- regular Covert Cloth Twilled, closely woven mix- polygonal meshes, imitating the cracked effect of ture effect wool coating or dress fab- glazed ware. ric, having a warp face; the warp is Crash 1, plain or twilled igray, bleached or a double and twist yarn of a dark and checked cotton and jute cloth, sized light colored strand, while the filling and calendered to resemble linen; used is two-ply or single in the same dark for towels, suits, etc.; 2, light, plain shade. Woven mostly in five-leaf iwoven, coarse linen fabric, made of warp satin weave and finished like uneven, slack twist yarn; used for cassimeres. summer suits, towels. 3, coarse plain woven light woolen made of iSee Covert Cloth. fabric, rough hard spun yarn. Dyed in the Cow Hair Is used for cheap carpets, etc., piece or made in mixture effect. mixed with wool. Cravenette A waterproofing process for Cow Tail In worsted sorting means fabrics, made of cotton, wool or silk. coarse staple taken from the tail end Crawford 1, a commercial variety of of the low luster 26s to fleece; spins early ripening cotton from South 28s. Carolina, the staple measuring 23-27 Cox Royal Arch Commercial variety of millimeters; the yield is 32-33 per early maturing cotton from Georgia, cent; 2, a highland tartan, composed the staple measuring 25-28 millimet- of green stripes over a crimson red ers; the yield is 30-32 per cent. ground and narrow white lines. CRA CRE

Crazy Quilt Made by joining irregular Crepe Meteor A highly finished silk pieces of cloth together with various crepe. without arranging the fancy stitches, Crepe Morette Light weight crinkled into any pattern. pieces fabric, made of fine hard spun wors- Crea A more or less stiffened bleached ted warp, widely set and a heavier cotton cloth in Chile. slack twist filling. Para Sabanas 'Bleached cotton Crea Rachel colored French in South America. Crepe Fancy sheeting dress goods of cotton warp and wors- ma.de of Cream DamaskLinen damask, ted filling; obsolete. partly bleached yarn. Crepe de Sante Porous and close woven Linen Linen yarn partly Creamed with a coarse made of un- bleached. crepe face, dyed wool and silk; used for under- Creas Stout, bleached linen canvas, wear. Also made of cotton or linen. made of hard spun yarn; the pieces made 30 metres long in Germany and Crepele French for craped. Austria. Crepeline See Crepon. Creeks General trade name for various black from Crepine 1, or colored French silk cottons of light body, measuring dress goods with very small dotted 11-6 to inches in length. 1% patterns; 2, a fringe. Crefeld Velvet Light German velvet Light sheer fabrics of silk or made of silk and cotton; used for Crepoline cotton, woven to a rib-like dresses, millinery, etc. produce crepe effect warp wise. Crehuela Light in Venezuela. Crepon^Dress fabric similar to crepe but Crenele The edge of the dress or mate- stouter, made of cotton, \voo, silk or battlement. rial, made like a mixtures, the blistered effect is pro- Creoulo Raw cotton, grown on trees in duced either by different degree of iBrazil. twist in the yarn, or by using right and left hand twist yarns in the same silk or cotton Crepaline Light weight or some of the made with a fabric, by having warp fabric, crepe border, threads slacker than the others. Of- either slack threads produced by warp ten made with large used for sum- Jacquard designs or chemical treatment; in black. mer dresses; name obsolete. Crepon d'Alencon Obsolete; light weight Crepe 1, cotton, wool or silk falbric, of various weight, having a crinky sur- French dress goods. The warp con- face, formed 'by using alternately right tained one strand of hard twist wors- hand and left hand twist yarns, in the ted and one or more strands of silk filling. See also Craping. 2, name yarn of a color different from the for .small ef- weaves producing grain worsted. The filling was of slack fects but without twill any design. twist worsted in the same color as Crepe de Chine A very light and fine the worsted strand of the warp. fabric, made with si'lk warp and silk or hard spun worsted fiUinz, the lat- Crepon d'Angleterre See Castinette. ter being alternately two picks at Crepon Givre A twilled crepon (see) with and two of left in right picks twist; frosted effect. the finishing process the worsted, in trying to regain its original position Crescent In needle-point lace the usually causes the fine crepe surface of the crescent shaped part of the flower pat- fa'bric; used for dresses, etc. When tern surrounded by raised cordonnet. only one kind of yarn is sh.t in sev- eral times in succession wavy crepe is Crescentin Cloth made of waste silk in produced. France. Crepe Crepe The warp has a larger num- Creseau 1, see Carisol; 2, twilled French ber of twists than in ordinary crepe, woolen, napped on both sides, similar producing a very deep crepe effect. to the kersey. Crepe de Dante Crepe, made of silk and Crespine Silk net in the 16th century; wool warp and silk, lisle an3 wool used as covering for the hair. weft. Crespinette Silk hair net in France. Crepe d'Espagne Very light fabric, made with silk warp and fine woal filling Crespolina .Cotton goods in South Amer- woven like gauze. ican countries. Crepe de Labor A cotton crepe wash Crete A fancy braid, composed of two dress goods in France; obsolete. groups of straight threads holding a Crepe de Laine French thin woolen dress heavy, trailing cord, forming picot goods, made in plain weave and edges. slightly creped. Crete Lace Bobbin lace made of various Crepe Lisse Very light highly finished colored slack twist silk or flax in crepe, made in gauze weave, slightly geometrical designs which are outlined in stiffened, comes pale colors; the with colored thread. Similar to Tor- has fewer twists than in the warp chon. crepe crepe; used for dresses and trimmings. Cretona 'Cotton in Venezuela. CRE 48 CRO

Cretonne 1, good quality, stout, bleached Crisp 1, fine English linen; 2, original French linen, named after its origina- name for crepes in England. a tor; used for shirts; 2, printed Cristal Dress goods, made with fine silk fabric or stout texture. The cotton warp and wool filling which form al- is either or the weave plain, warp ternate fine and heavy (often irregu- the threads are taped in pairs, often lar) ribs. weave is in damask or diaper. It is Cristaline woven silk dress in bright floral or other de- Loosely printed goods. signs visible mostly on the face but sometimes on both sides. It is not Crochet Work consisting of various small glazed, this fact toeing the disting- stitches worked with a hooked guishing mark from chintz; used needle into laces and other articles, for drapery and upholstery. made of wool, silk, cotton, or gold and silver and chenille yarn. Creva 'Coarse drawn work, made in Brazil. Crochet Cotton Loose cotton thread of various count, made 'by doubling first with two sets Crevelle Pile faibric, made several strands the opposite direction one of cotton for the web of weft, they were spun and then doubling for the the other of silk, pile. them again the same direction they Crewel Loosely twisted, fine two-ply were spun. worsted for embroidery. yarn Crochet Quilt Twilled, or Jacquard fig- Crewel Lace Narrow edging, made of ured, bleached cotton quilt, woven crewel yarn. with one set of warp and one set of filling. Crewel Stitch Same as stem stitch. Crocodile Cloth An woolen or twilled flannel dress English CricketingFine worsted cloth, made like Bedford in for cord; goods; used England sporting used for dresses. costumes. Crofting Scotch term for cotton used bleaching linen Crimean Shirting A shirting on the grass. in India. Croise 1, French term for twilled goods; 1, the curliness of the wool fiber; Crimp 2, commercial name for lightweight 2, same as 'Crapy. twilled worsted men's coating, made Crimping Fringe 'Craped silk fringe. with cotton warp and worsted filling; also used for dresses. Crimps Plain woven cotton cloth, made in England for the export trade. Cer- Crompton Axminster Rug or carpet, hav- tain warp threads, wound on a sepa- ing a tufted pile, made on . rate beam, are held slack, forming Cross Band Yarn with a left hand or crinkled warp stripes. warp twist. Crin 1, French term for horse hair; 2, Cross Dyeing iSome of the yarn is silk, heavier than cocoon silk, obtained dyed and afterward treated in the silk worm and by killing empty- tannic acid and woven into the its the silk sub- ing glands containing cloth with other undyed stance. yarn. When the fabric is dyed in the Crin Vegetal French name for "vegetable piece, the parts previously treated horsehair," a stiff, strong and durable with tannic acid will resist the new leaf fiber yielded by the scrub palmet- dye. used as substitute for animal to; hair, Cross Over Fabric In England fabrics etc. See also Artificial Horse- stuffing, with weft stripes. hair. Cross Stitch Double stitch in Crinkle Effect obtained on wool embroidery 1, by taking in two or more threads of the treating it with caustic soda; 2, on foundation both in height and width, silk by treating it with acids; 3, on the two yarns crossing each other, cotton it with acids. See by treating forming the diagonals of a also perfect Craping. square. Crinkle Fabrics or medium 'Light weight Cross Stripes 'Running weft wise. wash fabrics, made of cotton or mixed with silk, having crink'.ed warp stripes, Cross Weaving Where warp threads are formed by warp threads which are crossed with each other, as in the stretched less than the ground warp. gauze or leno. Crinkling See Craping. Crossbred 'Middle grade wool, taken from Crinolin Sheer fabric, made of cotton sheep crossed with merino. The fiber is warp and horsehair filling, heavily usually of good length, coarser than sized; used for hat forms, etc. merino. for Crinoline Smooth, stiff and strong fab- Crossing Warp Term those warp ends which are deflected in the ric, made with cotton warp and horse- gauze weave and are wound hair filling in plain twill or satin around the weave; used for interlining or hat straight war.ps. shapes; in imitation made also entire- Crossland Another name for Peterkin ly of hemp and finished with glue or (see). varnish, made mostly in black, also in Crow Weave An uneven four harn- natural gray. sided, ess twill weave, the warp crossing over Criolla 'Native South American sheep three filling threads and depressed un- yielding coarse wool. der one. CRO 49 CUT

Crow Foot 1, flaw in the fabric, caused by Cunningham A Highland tartan, com- defective yarns. 2, the 3-1 twill weave. posed of wide black stripes and nar- See Crow Weave. row red, black and white lines over Crown Lace English needlework of a red ground. Queen Elizabeth's reign, having royal Curl Pile Long wool or silk pile having a crowns in the design. curl, usually found in artificial fur. Crown Lining Sized tarlatan or lighter Curl Yarn Usually a three-strand yarn; weight of crinoline; used for lining first a thin strand (well stretched) women's hats. having curls and nubs, made by wind- Croydon Plain woven stout and bleached ing slackly a thick thread around a cotton sheeting in England, given a thinner one, which is well stretched, stiff and glossy finish with the aid of after which a third strand, also thin, size. is wound around the whole, holding the thick which forms the Crudillo CoronaUnbleached linen cloth, yarn, curls; made in wool or used made in Spain and exported to the cotton, silk; for ratine, etc. See also Yarn. Philippines. Loop Lace iSee Irish Point. Crudillo Gallo Linen cloth made in Curragh Spain. Curratow .Strong leaf fi'ber, obtained from a species of the wild Cruel Another name in the 17th pineapple in century Brazil. for Caddis (see). Currelles Crumb Cloth Coarse and heavy damask English faibric, made of wors- ted and silk in the 16th in gray, made to be embroidered in century. colored yarns around the patterns. Curtain Serge Stout woolen serge; used for drapery. Crusade ISth century woolen fabric in England. Curtrike Fine medieval worsted from Flanders. Crutchings .Wool which was removed same time before the shearing, in ord- Cushion A padded pillow of barrel or er to improve the growth of the some other shape; used as foundation fleece. in bobtxin lace making to which the pricked pattern is Crystal A very fine highly finished wool- pinned. en oif white color formerly made in Cushion Stitch Similar to cross stitch in England for the export trade; used Berlin work. for nun's clothes; now cJbsolete. Cusir iSeiwing silk in France. Cuban Bast A fine, soft but strong cloth- Cussidah East Indian muslin. like bast of the Hibiscus elatus in Cut 1, same as lea (see); 2, 300 yards Cuba; used for millinery braids, etc. length of single woolen yarn; 3, Cuban Hemp Strong smooth fiber, yield- standard length of the warp; for ed the leaves of the by Furcraea cu- worsteds is 70 yards; 4, jute yarn bensis of Central and South America. measure, equal to 300 yards. Cubi Hopi Indian, name for the aromatic Cut Cashmere Twilled woolen dress sumac; used for baskets, which can goods, having fine runs warp wise. hold water. often of a different color. Cubica Fine, thin English worsted serge, Cut Chinchilla (Showing colored warp usually red; used for linings, suiting, stripes in the ground, formed by hard etc. See also Plainback. spun yarn. Cudbear A violet dyestuff, obtained from Cut Goods Flat or knitted fabric, made a stone moss; used on animal fibers. in piece length and cut up for un- derwear. Cuero de Diablo Stout cotton denim in Colombia. Cut Pile 'Which is cut open after the loops were formed in the Cuir Laine process of French, wool winter dress weaving. goods, similar to the ratine,, woven in a twill. Cut Work Consists of partly filling with loops and stitches the various spaces Cuirtain Fine twilled fabric, made of cut into linen. It is of ancient white wool and used origin, for clothing in evidently coming from Greece. CaJled medieval Scotland. also and reticella. Cultivated In East Indian and other Cuts Trade term for short length of fab- Asiatic countries silks, made of "culti- rics, less than a bolt. vated" silk worm as compared with Cuttance (Fine and stout silk the "wild" silk. heavy satin of East India, with bright colored Gumming A Highland tartan, composed woven stripes and cotton back; used of the following on a red ground: A for upholstery. narrow dark green stripe, two wide Cutting Stout cotton cloth with bars and another narrow flower or green green trailing patterns. stripe, separated from each other by red stripes half the width of the nar- Cutting Thread Which forms the furrows the rifes of row green stripes. The wide green dividing corded fabrics. It bars are about four times as wide as is interlaced in plain weave with all the other threads the green stripes and are split in the and is stretched if it runs Center by a single white line. Each warp ways. Often it is of a different color group of green stripes and bars is al- than the ribs. ternated with a wide red surface, split Cuttle (Any desired length into which the with a narrow black stripe. finished cloth is folded. CUT 50 DAM

Cuttling The folding of the falbric after Dags Parts of the fleece, consisting of finishing. matted fibers and dirt. Cymatilis iA camlet made formerly in Daka Un'bieached cotton muslin, made in Asiatic Turkey. Turkestan; the finer grades are used Cypress Cloth 'Fine black colored, plain for turbans, the coarser for lining. woven cotton lawn, finished with lit- Dalecarlian Lace Very strong Swedish used for obsolete. tle size; mourning; ibobbin lace, made and worn by the Cyprian Cloth (Silk and gold brocade, peasant as starched ruffles. It is of made in Cyprus in the (Middle Ages. 'buff color. Cyprian Thread 'Made of a silk or linen Dalmatian LaceCoarse, narrow bobbin core twisted around with gilded cat- lace, made in Dalmatia, Austria, by gut; used for embroideries; obsolete. the peasent women. from Cyprus 'Fine silk gauze, originally Dalzell A Highland tartan, composed of black and used Cyprus; usually dyed green stripes over red ground, split as mourning veil. See Cypress Cloth. with white narrow lines. Light, sheer black crepe Cyprus Crepe Damajagua or Majagua A fine, strong used for the Tudors. mourning during cloth-like bast, yielded by a species of Cyprus Gold A thread in the Middle the mellow in South America; used ages, having a flat gold strip wound lor baskets, clothing and ropes. around a silk core. Damajuhato See Corteza del d. Cyprus Lace Originally a gold and sil- ver lace extensively copied by Italian Damaras East Indian taffeta with small cities. There is also a sort of cut flower patterns. See also Armoisin. work called C. lace and a more re- Damas 'French for damask. cent coarse bobbin lace. Damas Caffard Tapestry damask, made of wool, silk waste, cotton, etc., and given a high finish on the face. Damas Chine iFrench silk damask dress D goods, made with printed warp. Damas en Dorure .French silk damask with gold flower designs. Damas Francais French silk damask, Dab Grass 'Yields very durable and fair- made reversible or not, the pat- ly strong fiber; used for ropes in In- terns being formed by satin weave dia. on a gros de Tours foundation, each in two colors; obsolete. Daba Coarse, plain woven, unbleached cotton fabric, made in Kashgar, Cen- Damas Lisere Silk damask, the Jacquard tral Asia. design being outlined in gold. Dabbakhis iStriped East Indian cotton Damascene Lace 'Made of sprigs and muslin. lace braid joined with corded bars without It is a Dabouis 'Narrow, bleached East Indian any fillings. modern of the Honiton cotton cloth; used for calico. adaptation pillow lace, rich silk Dacca Muslin 1, the finest among the Damask 1, originally a fabric Indian cotton muslins; woven on hand ornamented with colored figures often in looms; 2, a striped or finely checked gold or silver; 2, an all-worsted English cotton muslin. twilled faibric made in England in the l>8th century; 3, the true or double Dacca Silk silk. Embroidery or reversible damask is woven both Dacca Twist Fine English plain or the ground and the large floral Jac- twilled calico; used for sheets, under- quard patterns in eight-leaf satin and wear, etc. the single damask in -five-leaf satin weave. Single damask is also made Dacey Coarse wild silk, produced by an East Indian silk worm from six to with figures, not in satin but plain or twill of cot- eight times a year. weave. Usually made ton or linen and used on the table. Dado \A usually two-colored, printed cotton; used for wall hangings in Damask Satin Double satin, the ground Italy; usually has a cream iground. and the figures formed by warp and weft satin. Daghestan Rugs iMade in Caucasia, the web and the short and close pile be- Damask Stitch In embroidery, a variety of tied in ing wool, Ghiordes knot; the of satin stitch (see), it takes in four is almost design always geometrical, horizontal threads of foundation or mosaic patterns with many angular two stitches in a slanting direction hooks being used in blue, red, yellow threads. The and ivory colors, without any shading. and over two upright Both ends are finished with a narrow remaining second lines of the damask selvage and knotted fringe; the sides stitch are taken over the two lower are finished with a very narrow col- threads of the upper line and two new ored selvage. threads instead of all the threads be- Daglock Inferior and unclean wool lock. ing new. DAM 51 DEF

Damasquette An 18th century silk bro- Darning The filling up of holes, rents, cade of Venice, showing floral designs etc., in textiles by means of forming a in ijold thread which was rolled out new texture with the thread and flat under heavy pressure, after taken needle. from the loom, forming a continuous Darning Cotton (Soft spun cotton thread; gold surface. used for mending holes. Oamassade Very soft, obsolete French Darya A rough faced, stout, natural col- dress goods, made in single color or ored fabric, made of wild silk in East warp and ftlling of different colors. India. It has no reverse side. Date Palm The leaf fibers are used for Damasse d, French shawl, made with ropes, bags, hats, etc., in Asia Minor. with combed wool warp and filling Datil 'Leaf fibers yielded by a species of for large flower designs; 2, French the cocoanut palm in Brazil; used fabrics having both the ground and for 'baskets, hats, etc. the large woven in satin patterns Dauglin Coarse used weave but of various colored or Philippine 'fiber; for cordage. lustered yarn; 3, in French general term for fabrics woven on a Jacquard Dauphine S'tout French silk dress goods loom. See also Ouvre. of wool and silk, often made with flower Damassee de Chasse Obsolete French powdering in many colors. It is similar to the droguets; obsolete. coutil (see), made very stout, about 30 inches wide, having linen warp Davidson A Highland tartan composed as follows over a and cotton filling; used for sporting dark green ground, clothes. the stripes running both warp and weftwise; a group of black stripes Damassin A gold and silver brocade, with two narrow stripes at the edges originally from Venice in 'the 17th and a wide bar between, the latter split later made in France. The century, by a narrow stripe of red in the gold or silver threads have 'been flat- center; a bar of dark green, about tened out (after the weaving) under the width of the 'black group, split in pressure, forming the design in heavy the middle with a black stripe (of a continuous surface. the same width as the edge stripes in Joan Ground In laces the black Dame needlepoint group) ; a group of navy a hexagonal filling, each side com- stripes, of the same dimensions as posed of two parallel threads. the black, the center bar likewise Damier French for large square checks split by a red stripe; followed by a in solid colors. green bar as above and repeat. Danish Cloth Plain woven, stout cotton 'Dead Cotton Undeveloped or unripe cot- dress goods, made in solid colors and ton fiber; it is difficult to dye or spin. slightly sized. Dead Wool Removed from the skin of Danish Embroidery The lace-like white dead sheep by sweating. embroidery on the edges of handker- Dean A commercial variety of upland chiefs. cotton from South Carolina. Darale East Indian unbleached cotton Dearing A late maturing commercial va- falbric having a red stripe parallel riety of cotton, yielding very large with the selvage; used for garments percentage of lint; the staple meas- by the native women. ures i20-25 millimeters. Dardanelles Canvas Coarse Turkish can- Debage French dress fabric, made with vas; used for sails and farmers' suits. luster 'wool iwarp of natural color and Dari Thick, coarse, very durable and dyed 'woolen filling. washable woven cotton carpet of Debuani Native East African trade small dimension; made in India. name for cotton falbrics, woven with Dariabanis East Indian bleached cotton red, yellow, black, or blue stripes, bor- cloth. ders or checks; used for turbans. Decan Soft, and Darida East Indian cloth, made in vari- Hemp silky strong fiber, yielded by the hibiscus in India ous coflors of vegetable fibers. plant and iSudan; used as substitute for Darin French canvas of coarse hemp hemp for ropes. yarn. Decating Treating wool and silk fabrics Daris Bast Indian cotton cloth. and yarn with steam or hot water, to Darnamas Fine, bleached cotton fabric taike the curl out. from Smyrna. Dechets 'French for silk waste. Darnec

Degumming Process for removing the Denim 'Washable, strong, stout twilled natural gum, sericin, from the silk. cotton clc-th, made of single yarn, and Dehbid Persian all-wool knotted rugs, either dyed in the piece or woven similar to Kermanshaw, but of infe- with dark brown or dark blue warp rior quality. and white filling; used for , skirts, etc. Delaine 1, French term, meaning "of wool"; 2, trade term for combing me- Satin Stout English worsted rino wool of medium fine quality; 3, satin, dyed black and finished with a wool raised in Ohio, said to have the high luster; used for . strongest staple of all wools; 4, origi- nally a lightweight, plain woven Densa A heavy, fulled woolen fabric; French made of all-wool and used for winter by the old fabric, Romans. dyed in 'the piece; at the present it is made in England of a mixture of Dental Floss Slack spun strong silk yarn; cotton and wool and often printed. used to clean the teeth with. Rich East Indian em- Embroidery Dentele iFrench for scalloped or festoon made in chain in broidery, stitch, 'gold, edge. silver and silk over satin or other silk ground. Dentelle 'French term for lace since the 17th Delinere 'French bleached linen of me- century. dium quality for the household. Dentelle de Fil French term for laces, made of thread. Delvei Gray cotton faJbric in the African one-ply markets. Dentelle a la Vierge French bobfoin Demerara Raw cotton from Guiana. lace, with dou'ble ground, similar to the Ave Maria lace (see). Demeshek In the Bible means silk. Dents 'French for scallops or points, as in In worsted of No. 30. Demi England yarn edges of laces. Fine French woolen cloth of Demi Drap Deora Indian jute, having a very dark, fulled shorn and ligfhtweigiht, lightly, strong and coarse fiber; used for calendered. ropes. Demi Hollande bleached fine Obsolete, Rugs 'Medium and large sized French canvas, made of linen yarn. rugs, made in Caucasia. They are all- Demi Londres Loosely woven and lightly wool, the warp occasionally of goat fulled French woolen, usually left un- hair, with long soft pile tied in finished. Ghiordes knot and having a fine lus- ter. The weave is loose. The designs Demi Lustre wool of fine 1, fairly staple, are geometrical, star patterns often not as and lustrous as lustre long occurring. The chief colors are red, included are wool; Cotswold, Devon, yellow and blue. The ends are fin- Wensleydale; Roscommon, Romney, ished with a long, knotted fringe. used for yarns of 36s to 46s count; 2, yarns of 36s to 46s count, made of Derby 'Hosiery knitted with six ribs on face three such wool; 3, see L/ustre Orleans. the and on back alternat- ing. Demi Mousseline Very light French cambric of cotton or linen yarn, made Deriband East Indian bleached cotton fabric. plain or striped. Derries Cotton dress made in Demi Ostade .Medieval Dutch woolen goods, brown and blue colors, in India. fabric, finished "with a napped face without fulling. Desi Indian jute, the fiber is long and very soft, but has a dark color; used Demi Satin Obsolete used for satin; for gunny bags and burlap. drapery, etc. Design A complete plan of the character Demi Tories Thin French lining; obsolete. of a textile fabric, giving both its construction and the decorative Demirdji Rugs All-wool rugs, made in pat- Asia Minor; the loose and medium tern. long pile is tied in Ghiordes knot. The Desooksoy -East Indian cotton doth. destgns and colors show great vari- Deswal 'Indian jute of second best grade: ety. it is strong, fine, has a light lustrous Demittons Stout English cotton cloths color and is soft; also called siradj- for the Oriental trade. ganj. Demyostage Obsolete 'Scotch woolen Developing See Diazotizing. cloth, lightly dressed. See Demi Developing Agents Various organic Ostade. chemicals, 'which mixed with dye- Denes Blanket Woven by British Colum- stuffs or other chemicals, bring forth insoluble colors which are not lakes. bia Indians (Denes), both warp and 'filling made of twisted strips of rab- Devil's Cotton A strong and silky white bit skin. bast fiber, yielded by the abroma in India; used for Denier Unit of measurement of the fine- cordage. ness of silk yarn; the denier is the Devil's Nettle Fine, white and strong weight of a certain length of yarn, fiber, yielded by a species of nettle varying from 450 to 500 meters in dif- in Assam; used for cordage and ferent localities. coarse fabrics. DEV DIG

Devon 1. obsolete, well fulled thick wool- Diagonal Stitch In embroidery a couched en overcoating, similar to kersey; gold or silk thread fastened down worn in England; 2, name for a six- with diagonal stitches. pick huckaback weave; used for Diagonales Gray coflton drill in Colom- cheaper towels. bia. Devonia Ground A filling in Duchesse Diamantee ^Frerifh silk vesting made lace, consisting of irregularly spread- with two-ply warp, 20 leaves and eight ornamented with ing plaited bars, 'fillings in a repeat. pivots. Diamantine English twilled worsted Devonia Lace Species of the Honiton dress goods witth a high finish; obso- lace (see), the flower petals or but- lete; 2, 18th century woolen fabric in terfly wings being made in raised re- England. lief effect. Diamond 1, a twill produced toy revers- ker- Devonshire Kersey White English ing the direction of the twill to form originated in the early part of sey, squares; 2, matchings from the sides the Ifrfh Also called washers oemtury. of down fleeces of 48/50 quality; 3, and wash whites. worsted warp yarn, made by twisting Devonshire Lace 'Bobbin lace of old a 4s with a 2/'36s with eight turns per origin, influenced in the 17th century inch and then reverse twisting this by Flanders. Some time ago Greeik with a 2/36s strand with four turns itorchon laces with geometric designs, per inch; 4, commercial variety of black laces, similar to the Honiton short staple, upland cotton in America. (see) and, also trolly laces were made Diamond Braid A soutache 'braid made at D. with five threads, each thread passing Dewdrops Cs'etting, ornamented with lit- alternately under and over two tle drops formed of gelatine or . threads. Diamond In Ireland ar> Dextrine Is roasted starch; used for fin- Draught Diaper eight-leaf, twilled, linen diaper cloth, ishing cotton goods and in printing. with diamond patterns. Dha Xative hemp from Senegal; used Diamond Linen 'See Diaper. for "antiificial" it wool, by treating Diamond Net Made with with nitric acid and solution of na- lozenge shaped mesh. triumsuperoxide, which render the fiber transparent and crinkled. Diamond Stitch In embroidery rows of silk thread couched down by silk and Dharwar East Indian raw cotton, 'having gold thread running diagonally at op- a moderately strong, fairly clean sta- posite directions and forming small ple of golden color. diamonds.

Dhollerah 'East Indian raw cotton, hav- Diamond Yarn See Diamond, 3. ing a fairly strong, cohesive fiber of the dull whitish color; it is usually very Diaper 1, rich silk fabric of Middle dirty. Ages, made with single colored pat- terns; used for church vestments, Dhooties Originally a reversible hand dresses, e*c. ; originated from the woven cotton faJbric, a having plain Orient; 2, a twill raising three warps and 'body 'bright colored borders and in succession, followed by a pick af- heads, woven with colored filling ter which the weave is reversed; also where the colored border stripes are; a pattern formed by twilled checks, for used garments, scarfs and turbans originally with a five-leaf satin in India and Afri'ca. Now often made weave; 3, white linen or cotton fabric, with the filling for the white or gray made with small diamond or bird's with the colored body, interlacing eye pattern, in the above described borders. It is a the soft, ligftt cloth, twill weave; used for towels, chil- body woven in plain weave. dren's dresses, etc.; 4, a grade of da- Dhunchee 'Lon'g, coarse and harsh bast mask linen, made in Ireland; 5, stout, fiber, yielded by the Sestoania acule- twilled cotton drill, made with col- ata in India; used for ropes, cords, ored checks. etc. Diaphane A transparent white or print- East Indian thick cotton drap- ed, French cotton gauze; obsolete. made with ribs and broad ery, warp Diapistus A rich medieval fabric of un- weft stripes in blue or red. known structure. Diabiki Medieval Arabic silk fabric with Diazotizing A process by which fast col- brocaded flowers. ors are produced by semi-fast or Diable Fuerte (Bedford cords and cordu- fugitive dyes by treating the fabrics, roys in South American countries. after the dyeing, in a solution of so- dium nitrate and sulphuric acid and Diafalement Fort 'Made in France of lin- then with some developer (naphtyla- en warp and cotton filling. mines, ammonias, carbolic acid and Diagonal 1. large twills, producing other organic compounds). name for a heavy diagonal lines; 2, Dibah or Durable medieval silk number of wool and worsted dress Dibadj brocade dress goods of Persian fabrics, the twill in wide, showing origin. diagonal or serpentine wales. There are a larger number of picks than Dice Same as lozenge or diamond pat- ends in a square inch; 3, see Cantoon. tern. DIG 54 DOR

Dickson Commercial variety of early Doeuma Very wide coarse gingham, maturing American cotton, the staple often with large check design, having measuring 23-26 millimeters and a medium soft finish; used in Turkey forming- large clustered bolls; the for bed and table covers, curtains, yield is 3

Djule Knitted Persian wool rugs with Doriah 1, gray, bleached or dyed (blue or long haired back. black), plain woven cotton goods, fin- ished soft or hard; used for outer Dobby 1, name for an English worsted garments by the natives in Egypt; fabric, originated in the 19th century, 2, a plain woven bleached cotton cloth woven with bird's eye patterns; 2, in Arabia with prominent raised small Jacquard patterns. stripes produced by placing the warp Doctored Same as manipulated. ends closer. DOR 55 DOU

Dornock or Dornek 1, coarse English lin- Double Plush 1, knitted fabric, made en diaper with check patterns; used 'With two face yarns and a backing for the table and for 2, in- drapery; yarn, which is napped; 2, fabric hav- of the 15th ferior damask century, ing plush pile on both sides. made of wool, silk and gold. Double Plush Weaving Process to weave, Dorset A fairly long and fine English face to face, two separate cut warp wool. pile fabrics without the use of wires. Dorsetshire Lace Obsolete English bob- Two separate ground cloths are bin lace of great beauty. woven, the pile warps passing from Dorsetteen 'Has worsted warp and silk one cloth to the other and are cut filling, made in England. In the middle. in Doru -Persian khilim (see), woven with Double Ribbon Trade name England ribbons. solid cross stripes. for reversible figured Dorure French term for gold braids, Double Satin Double faced overcoating, five-leaf tresses, etc. both sides woven with a satin. Dosia 'Chinese unfashioned woolen ho- smooth siery. Double-spun Yarn Perfectly 'Strong cotton cloth made in in- yarn. 'Stitch or Star Stitch In embroid- dia of two-ply warp and filling in Double plain weave. ery, variety of the tent stitch (see) of a tent stitch with two Dot Stitch See Point de Pois. composed smaller parallel tent stitches on each Dotis East Indian calico. side. Dotted Swiss A thin and open weave, Double Warp Trade term for various soft cotton muslin, made with do-t better grades of fabrics in England, patterns with heavy cotton yarn, us- made with two-ply warp. ing the swivel motion; 'used for cur- tains, summer dresses, etc. Double and Twist Two-ply yarn, the two strands being of different colors. Double Hosiery, knit with single thread, has the toe or heel usually reinforced Double Width 'Same as broad goods, 54 by the addition of another thread. inches, or wider. To Double A process of twisting two or Double Worsted Stout, medieval English more single yarns together, as a rule worsted, about 45 inches wide. in an opposite direction to the twist Doublerie French term for a the printed 'given single yarns. canvas. Double Cassinet 'Satin, made of cotton In black silk shoe warp and alternate cotton and woolen Doubles England strings of various widths. 'filling. to- Double Cloth >A fabric woven with two Doubling !, the process of twisting two or more or strands of sets of warp and two sets of flllin'g. gether plies Both sides may be alike or different yarn; 2, a process in silk throwing, and often can be worn on the out- consists of uniting several single side. threads on the same bobbin without any twist. Double Cote -French serge made with 10 leaves and 10 picks in a repeat. Doublings English lining of cotton. Double Cross Stitch In em'broidery two Doublure^l, French term for lining; 2, threads, with knots over them, are coarse bleached woolen military suit- stretched in herringbone fashion, an- . ing in France. other single also in thread, herring- A Highland tartan, the stripes bone the Douglas effect, crossing first one. running warp and weftwise as fol- Double ^Damask Has both the ground and lows: Wide navy blue bar, split in the patterns woven in eight-leaf the center by a narrow white line; satin. a dark green bar, half of the width of Double Dyed Unions dyed twice. the navy; a black stripe, half the width of the green, with pale blue Double Faced 'Double cloths or backed lines next to it on both sides; another cloths which can be either worn side green bar, as above. on the ou-tside. Douillon (French term for the lowest Double Jean Obsolete name for serge. grade of wool. Double Leviathan Stitch In embroidery Split goods or ribbons which consists of a cross stitch Doup Edge large (see) are woven several widths together, to with long cross stitches to fill in the be split later, are made with doup edge holes on each side, and an lastly up- in gauze weave, to prevent unravel- right cross stitch over the whole. ing. Double Pick Two of shot picks filling Doupions Two cocoons more or less into the same shed; used in cross closely interwoven with each other, ribbed fabrics and heavy 'goods. preventing the reeling of the silk. Double Pile Fabrics woven with pile on Silk Reeled from double co- each side. Doupion coons or doupions; is slightly inferior Double Plain A double cloth, having both to ordinary raw silk. It is raised in layers woven plain, often in different Japan, adapted to strong cheap fab- colors, interchanged at intervals to rics; is of exceptional tensile strength produce designs. and elasticity. DOW 56 ORE

Dowlah Wide bleached cotton sheeting Draps de Gobelin Fine French woolen in Servia. dress goods, dyed red. Stout, coarse, half-bleached lin- Draps de Gros Bureau Coarse French en, made in Ireland and England; used 'woolen suitings, dyed black, gray, or for shirts, towels, etc. There is also white; used by the peasants. a cotton cloth, made in imitation of D. Drap Imperial 'Fine French dress goods, Downright Woolsorting term in the wool- woven plain of wool and cotton. en trade, meaning the wool taken from Drap de Milord Various kinds of French the lower parts of the sides of a serge dress goods, made with 12 fleece. It is next to the finest sort. leaves and from 6 to 12 picks in a Downs English short and medium wools, repeat. which are fuzzy; used for hosiery, Drap Natte Fulled woolen cloth of Eng- woolens, etc.; included are Dorset, lish origin, made in solid or several Oxford, Shropshire, Wiltshire, South- colors and having a raised nap on down, Hampshire. the back. Dowrah iSee Deora. Drap de Pauvre Coarse serge, made of Doyley See Doily. natural reddish brown, undyed and unsecured wool. extensively Dozens English kersey, worn under Formerly used in France for clothes the Henry VIII. by poorer classes. woolen over- Drab Cloth Thick, strong and durable coating of gray color in England. Drap Phenix Very light French men's suiting and dress goods; Drabbet Coarse, twilled linen duck, white obsolete. or colored, made in England. Quilted silk fabric, made ribbed Drap Pique Draft 'Fine, all-wool, warp cloth; with fancy figures; used for men's used in churches. vests. Drake Clustei A commercial variety -of de Prince Silk or wool serge suit- cot- Drap early maturing American upland ing made with eight leaves and three the 22-25 milli- ton, staple measuring picks in a repeat. meters; the yield is 31-32 per cent. Drap Royal 1, lightweight twilled Dram In England and the United States French woolen dress goods, made of the weight in drams of 1,000 yards of organzine warp and very fine wors- silk is the unit of measurement. yarn ted filling in small cross ribs; 2, obso- See Denier. lete, lightweight, fulled and printed Drap French for woolen. French woolen cloth; used for vests, Drap d'Alep French dress goods and etc. men's suiting, .made of silk warp and Drap Sanglier Rough faced French woolen filling and fulled; obsolete. mourning dress goods, made of all Drap d'Alma Closely woven twilled, wool wool in loose weave. or silk mixed ribbed fabric, finished on Drap Satin Woolen dress goods, made the face only. with a highly finished satin face. Mid- Drap d'Arest Rich silk cloth of the de Silesie Lightweight, all-wool vestments. Drap dle Ages; used for church French dress goods, fulled. de iStout French mourning Draps Baye de Soie 1. French term for heavy dress goods, made with long napped Drap silk dress 2, various, closely surface. goods; shaggy woven serge dress goods and men's Drao de Beaucamp iA stout and coarse suitings, originally made black. French twilled suiting, made of linen Soleil 'French dress fabric of high warp and woolen filling in solid colors. Drap lustre, made of wool with wide weft I 'French dress Drap Bresi ienne serge ribs. goods, made of pure silk or mixed with wool. Drap Zephii Fine French woolen dress goods, similar to cachemire. Drap de Chasse 'A plain woven women's suiting, made with fine silk warp and Drapade 'See Somimiere. for heavy cotton filling, forming promi- Drapery 1. In England term dry nent cross ribs. goods; 2, textiles, used for upholstery, Draps Chats French woolen dress goods, curtains, hangings, etc. made of white wool warp and colored Drawboy English lasting. made of wool -filling, dyed black in the piece. double worsted warp and wool filling; Draps Croises French for twilled cloths. used for women's , made in the 19th in England; obsolete. Drap de Dame Very light, eoft, all-wool century French dress goods, similar to the Drawn Work 'Made by pulling out cer- flannel or Spanish stripes, slightly tain threads of loosely woven linen fulled. and fastening the remaining threads stitches Drap Edredon Light, soft and warm together with various fancy winter coating, made of the finest into patterns. wool, completely fulled. Dreadnought Variety c-f bearskin cloth Drap d'Ete lightweight twilled worsted (see). for dress goods, with warp ribs; used Dresden 1, 18th century woolen fabric in summer garments, etc. England. 2, small flower design in Drao Geraldine Heavy woolen dress pastel shades, usually in wanp goods, made in dark mixtures. prints. DRE 57 DUN

Dresden Point Drawn work ornamented Drummond 1, originally a twilled English with colored silk thread embroidery worsted in Oxford gray, woven with in Germany. dou'oie and twust yarn; 2, a Highland tartan with red as predominating col- Dresden Ribbon iSilk or cotton ribbon, o.', tne stripes running as follows, in various the is widths, warp print- each way: A wide field of red, split ed in delicate colored flower pat- with two pairs of narrow dark blue terns before weaving. lines, the center stripe between the two about one third the Dress FacedWoolen fabrics having a pairs being width of the wide side * The fulled and slightly napped face. stripes. next group of stripes is as wide as Dress Goods Large variety of woolen, both pairs of blue stripes, the center worsted, silk or cotton fabrics; used red stripes, and one side red stripe, for women's and children's dresses. and consists of the following: Nar- row pale blue line, narrow red line, Dressed Flax See Hackled. dark blue stripe, narrow red line, nar- row green line, narrow red wide Dressed Line Trade term for line, thoroughly green bar (being of the same width hackled flax. as the wide red bars mentioned above in the red group), narrow red line Dressing <1, size made of gum, starch, and narrow dark 'blue line. * This is china clay, etc., to stiffen cotton, lin- followed by a wide red after en and silk a stripe, cloths; 2, finishing pro- which the entire group described be- in the fabric * cess, consisting sizing tween the two is repeated in a re- with gums, rice water, oil, etc., in versed order. order to give luster, weight or stiff- Dry Goods General term in United States ness to the fabric. for all textiles. Dsedim or Jedim Oriental of Dril 1, plain or twilled cotton goods in rug, made several of colored knitted Spain, always colored, either dyed in strips wool sewed together. Che piece or in the yarn; used for Dsujnabe or 'Central Asiatic men's suits; 2, in Jamaica plain wov- Jujnabe knotted wool rugs. en cottonades, plaids, etc.; used for trousers. Dubahi A calico in Persia; used for clothing. Dril 'Piece Negro Firme dyed cotton Ducape A plain woven medium fine, soft coating in Colombia. ribbed silk fabric; used in the 17th century in England. Drill 'Stout, strong twilled cotton goods of medium weight, dyed in the piece Duchesse 'A rich stout silk satin in solid or woven with black or brown warp color, with a broad twilled baak. and white filling; used for trousers, Duchester 'Sort of English velvet. etc. Duck 'Very closely woven, stiff and dura- ble cotton fabric, made with hard Drilled Embroidery (Bohrware), is made twist two-ply yarn in plain weave in on hand or shuttle machine by cut- ecru white or stripes, usually two ting holes in the cambric and em- warps are run through each dent; broidering the cut edges. used for awnings, tents, sails, etc. The lightest weights are for sulnm'er Drillette In England a variety of weft clothing. faced, light weight drill, woven in a Duffels or Duffields Thick woolen over- ^^ three, four or five shaft twill. coating of Belgian origin having a heavy, chinchilla like nap; obsolete. Droguet 1, collective term for various In the 17th century, made in cotton wool and silk England cloths, made in and exported to America for winter France and It England. is made wear. 'See also Bath Coating. plain, woven or twilled and patterned, Dul Very strong and fine fiber, yielded usually slightly fulled. 2, obsolete toy the stem of a climber in Ceylon. term for various ribbed French wors- Dumb Singles The finest of Mie reeled ted dress goods. silk yarns; it has no twist. Drop Lea The strong web which hand Dumb-Waiter Rope Trade name for un- made rugs are started with. tarred cables or cordage of hemp. Dumican work made tl>e Drosin Embroidery by Suiting made of silk waste and old Araucanians in Chile. worsted yarn. Made in Holland. Dumobin A fine grade of Scotch plaid. Drought Proof Same as Texas storm Dunbai A Highland tartan, made proof. with green stripes and black lines on a red 1, plain, twilled or corded Eng- ground. lish fabric of the 18th century, made Duncan Commercial variety of late with worsted warp and woolen filling; maturing long staple cotton from in 2, printed and felted woolen fabric; Georgia, growing large bolls. used for floor covering. Dunchee Strong and very elastic bast fiber, yielded by the Sesbania Aculeata Druid ' in England and Aus- in India; used for ropes and as a tralia. substitute for hemp. DUN EDE

Dundas A Highland tartan, the stripes Duvetyn A very soft French fabric, made running both ways as follows: Black of worsted warp and two-ply silk stripe; navy blue stripe, twice as wide (tussah) filling in four harness twill as the 'black and split in the center weave, the filling covering the face. by a narrow black line; black slripe, A fine downy nap is raised with an as wide as the first one; a wide field emery cylinder; used for coats, dress- of dark green (made a little narrower es. The cheaper grades are similar than the above -mentioned black, blue to the pocket velvet. combined) and and black stripes split in the Grease Large number of low of Dyed in the center by a group red, green, grade worsteds are dyed as they come dark blue, green and red lines. from the loom, without being scoured Dundee 1, soft, smooth, twilled woolen, 'first. Dyeing in the grease is used having very little nap; 2, coarse bur- only for black and blue colors. made of laps, crashes, baggins, etc., Dyed in the Wool Fabrics, the wool in in Scotland. jute, flax and hemp D., which was dyed before spun. in Dungaree 1, coarse blue denim; used Dyed in the Yarn (Fabrics in which the the American navy; 2, a navy blue yarn was dyed before woven. See piece jean, used in England for sailors' dye. clothes; made also for the export Dynamiting See Weighting. chiefly India. The filling is trade, Dzoul A khilim (see) made in Anatolia while the is dyed in the yarn, warp of various shades of natural colored blue drill in South Africa. white; 3, goat's 'hair and wool, without any de- Dunging A process in the mordanting sign. of cotton fabric resulting in fixing the mortdant to the fabric. Various so- diums, carbonate of ammonium, etc., are used. Dunkirk Lace Pillow lace of the 17th century; similar to Malines (see). Dunrobin Fine woolen with a Scotch plaid design. broadcloth-like kersey, Dunster Coarse Early Carolina 'See Carolina Pride. made first in England in the 14t'h Earth Flax 'Same as Asbestos. century; obsolete. East Improved A commercial variety of Italian worsted, Duraforte 16th century late maturing cotton from Georgia, and stout. made very strong yielding 31-32 per cent of long Durance or Durant English woolen and staple. worsteds, made in various colors and Eboutage French term meaning res- very strong texture; used in the 16th toration of torn needle-point laces. centuries. and 17th Ecaille 1, French silk dress goods, made six leaves and 32 Duree Quilt iMade with large patterns with ply warps, formed by coarse thread on a plain fillings in a repeat. 2, fish scale like or woven ground; made bleached or in work, made of flat quills over silk colors. velvet. Ecailles In Brussels lace, a ground re- u

Edredon Pine soft woolen woven in Elberfeld Silk Trade name for Glanzstoff three-leaf twill, made with a filling (see). thicker than the warp. Electoral Cloth 'Fine, reversible woolen Edredon Vegetale -French term for a dress goods, the face woven in 2-1 tree cotton of Martinique. weft twill and the back with fine ribs. Effect Yarn Warp or weft yarn, intro- Electra Dress goods, made of cotton and duced into the cloth for the only pur- silk. in pose to produce certain effects, as Electric Velvet (English cotton or silk etc. color, knots, loops, velvet, made with light colored dots Effigeen Obsolete lining. powdered over a dark colored foun- Efflle .French for fringed. dation. Effilure ^French term for unraveling of Elephant Toweling 'Rough faced, coarse edges of the cloth. and strong cotton or linen cloth; used for towels, embroideries, and drawn- lA Peruvian cotton derived from Egipto work in England. the American upland seed, having a Elken cotton staple of about 1 % inches; good for iHeavy duck or sail cloth In coarse yarns. Roumania and Bulgaria. Ellementes 17th Egyptian Cloth 'Cotton cloth for wool century English worsted. embroidery. Elliot A Highland tartan rwith a navy ground. Far apart from each other Flax Very long and coarse Egyptian are pairs of nut brown with fiber of reddish hue. stripes a wide blue stripe between the half Egyptienne '1, French silk dress goods, of each pair. This blue stripe is split solid colored or in various colors; ob- in the center by a narrow red stripe. dress made of solete. 2, goods, wool, EllsworthCommercial variety of late sil'k. obso- camel's hair and waste 3, 'maturing cotton from North dress with narrow satin Carolina, lete; goods the staple measuring 21-24 millimet- over ribbed stripes ground. ers; the yield is 30-33 per cent. Eiderdown d, a soft, elastic knitted fab- Elongated Twill >Has an angle more than ric, made of thick, soft spun yarn; 40 degrees. it is heavily napped on one side; 2, Elysee Applique work, the floral a loose thiok woolen fabric, with a pat- terns being cut out of two on one side. deep nap of different colors and then embroid- Eider lYarn Very soft knitting yarn, ered. fine wool. made of Elysian A heavily napped, thiok woolen Eis Wool or Ice Wool Fine, two-ply overcoating of .French origin; the worsted knitting yarn. nap is finished in undulating lines. Ejoo Very strong, dark colored fiber, Emajagua See Damajagua. found at the base of the leaves of the Embauba Very tough bast fiber yielded sago palm in Malacca; it does not rot by the trumpet tree in Brazil; used in water; used for cordage, cables, for bags. etc. Embira "Several kinds of bast 'fibers in Eksuti Cotton cloth made in India of Brazil; used for nets by the natives. single warp and .filling. Emboss Pattern in relief in embroid- Elastics Narrow fabrics iwith some of the ery, velvet. warp thread made of rubber; used for Embossd'ells 'English woolen cloth; ob- belts, , shoes, etc. solete. Elastic Canvas 'Plain woven cotton fab- Embroideries Various plain woven cot- - ric, dyed in solid colors; used as stiff ton fabrics in England, made of fine ener in garments. yarn and used for embroidery founda- tion. Elastic Cord Has a rubber core with fine silk thread wound around; used Embroidery Originally a needlework of for men's hats. antique origin, consisting in executing designs with thread, yarn or other Elastic Flannel knitted 'English goods flexible material on a textile or leath- with raised on the used for nap face; er It differs from lace women's ground. that garments. while embroidery always requires a Elastic Gore An elastic tape made with ground to work on, which is essential rubber threads; used for the sides of part of the .needlework, lace has no shoes; usually in black and . such ground or if it is built up on ground (like the on Elastic Webbing A stout, strong narrow any a it is not of fabric, made with rubber threads as pricked pattern) part the fabric. The of the part of the warp; used for suspend- largest part embroidery now in use is ers, , belts, etc. produced by machinery. Elastik In Austria a light weight sheer, Cloth used unbleached linen a Embroidery English cambric; fabric, given for embroidery. strong finish; used for underlining. Cotton Slack twist two- Fine Embroidery Elastique men's overcoating, made strand cotton thread; used for em- of merino wool toward the middle of broidery. the 19th century. Embroidery Linen Linen fabric woven of Elatche East Indian cotton and silk cloth even, round thread; used for em- with check patterns. broidery. EMB 60 ES'C

Embroidery Quilt Has large patterns Light glossy dress fabric, made formed by coarse thread on a fine, with fine silk warp and a heavier plain woven foundation. worsted or cotton filling, forming cross and in the Silk twisted silk ribs, dyed piece. Orig- Embroidery Loosely a of a number of un- inally very light dress goods, made yarn composed with and lus- twisted threads. organzine warp fine, trous worsted filling in different col- Emerizing (Finishing process by which ors. It was made in twill weave with filling weaves of cotton, silk or wool- the warp forming little brocaded pat- en goods are given a pile effect by terns. scratching them with rapidly revolv- Epingle 'French for fine lustrous corded ing rollers covered with emery. effect, either warp or weftwise, in Emerties See Amertis. silk dress goods, often alternated with Emery Cloth Strong cotton or linen fab- heavier ribs; also a silk dress goods made with such rib effect. ric, coated with powdered emery; used for polishing. Epingline A warp rifhbed dress goods, made with silk and worsted fill- Empress ClothDouble faced woolen warp a face. dress goods, made with 2-1 weft twill ing with pebbled face and finely ribbed back. Eponge 'Woven of loop yarn warp and in weave; used for Empress Gauze iFine, flower figured fab- plain filling plain dressee, etc. Is made of cotton, wool ric, made of all silk or silk and linen. or silk. En Couchure Same as Couching. Epsom Salt Used to give soft feel and Enameled Cloth Plain woven, coarse cot- body to textile fabrics. ton fabric coated with varnish; used Erca In fine linen for upholstery. See American Cloth. Cuba, shirting. soft and End Another term for warp; used in ex- Ercildun A very fine, lustrous, elastic wool of white pressing the ends in a given space. pure color, yield- ed by the e. sheep in Tasmania; used Engineer's Cloth A blue cotton fabric in for the finest grades of dress fabrics. England, similar to dungaree; used wild silk for overalls. Eri or Eria iStrong and white from East India and Assam, yielded English Chintz IStoh century name for by the Attacus ricini; the cocoons printed fabrics, made of all linen or cannot be reeled. linen and 'Cotton in Eng- warp filling bast land. Erizo 'Coarse, strong fiber, yielded by a species of the apeiba tree in English Drawing See Bradford system. Venezuela. or Eyelet Embroidery Ermine 'Brown woolen dress fabric from The pattern is formed of a number England. of eyelets, which are embroidered in of buttonhole stitches all around the Erskine A Highland tartan, consisting the colors in a Wide edges. Comes mostly in white but following repeat: in a also in colors. red bar, split the center with pair of narrow and closely placed English Foot Hosiery with a seam at green lines; a dark green bar, of the each side of the sole. the same width as the red, split as English Leathei In Austria and Germany latter with a pair of red lines. a stout cotton or union linen fabric, Eruc A strong fi'ber, yielded by the woven in five-leaf satin weave; used Corypha urens in the Philippines; for boys' suits. used for cordage. mesh. English Net iMade with hexagonal Escalier 1, ladder tape; 2, lace, made In English Point ilSfh century needle-point ladder effect. lace similar to the Spanish point. Escamis Stout cotton barchent from the English Yarns Worsted yarns spun in Levant. oil, according to the Bradford system. Escarimant A much esteemed fabric of Engrelure French term for footing, or the Middle Ages; weave and texture the part of the lace edging which is unknown. sewn to the cloth. Escoba Fine, strong bast fiber, yielded Ensign Cloth In England a plain woven by the sida plant in Venezuela; used cotton or linen fabric; used for flags. for ropes. Entoilage The mesh ground in laces. Escobadura 'Fine and w

Eskimo 1, overcoating woven with a five- Etching Silk Hard spun silk thread; leaf satin weave on the face and the used for embroidering outlines. back or with a twill, showing three- Etendelle H]orsehair cloth; used In quarters of the on the face; 2, warp France and in the very thick single cloth of fine wool, Belgium pressin* of oil. made light, soft and . Eternelle (French term for the Espagnolette Fremch faibnic, originally very dura- made of Spanish merino wool, later able torchon laces, made in Saxony. of other carded wool in plain or Ethridge Commercial variety of late twilled weave, finished smooth or with maturing cotton from L/ouisiana, the nap raised on either or both sides and fine and glossy staple measuring 28-30 made similar to melton. It was dyed millimeters. in the piece and used for trousers, etc. Etoffe French for cloth. Esparto 'Commercial name for a fine, Etoffe du Coarse of transparent and clear leaf filber, yield- Pays homespun ed by the esparto grass in Algiers, natural gray wool. Spain, etc.; used for cords, , Etoupiers Cordat French packing can- baskets, also for carpets, etc. vas, made of tow. Esperon Obsolete; fine French serge lin- Etramee A French hemp cloth. ing, made 28 inches wide. Espouline Indian shawls, made in four Etshigo Very thin Japanese silk. colors only; obsolete. Etun In the Bible denotes linen. Essequibo Cotton Trade name for Bra- Eureka A commercial variety of medium zilian cotton. maturing American Cotton, the strong Estaim Obsolete; French term for hard ifine and gloesy staple measuring up twist worsted yarns; used as warps to 40 millimeters, forming large bolls; in rugs or carpets, also for knit goods. the yield is 28-30 per cent. dress of silk and Estamene 1, French all-wool dress Euxinet 'English goods obsolete. serge, finished with a rough face; 2, wool; an English fabric, made in basket Even Running (Cotton containing fibers of weave of crossbred yarn. The face even length. raised a little and is a coarse given all-wool or cotton finish. Everlasting An filling fabric with fine and very close, almost French Estamet -Obsolete; light weig"ht waterproof surface, woven in satin woolen, made about 43 inches wide. weave; used for shoe tops, , Estampados Ordinary cotton prints in etc., formerly for suits. It is very Latin American countries. durable. Obsolete term for warp Esterett dSth century woolen fabric in ribbed wool cloth; used for women's England. shoes. Estopa Tow in Brazil. Ewes' Wool 'Shorn from female sheep. Estopilla In South America, batis{e-like Examit Said .to be the original Byzan- cloth, made of fine linen yarn. tine name for Samit (see), a fine sillc fabric with a Accord- Estrella A crepe-like, plain woven fab- six-ply warp. to another interpretation a fine ric, made with silk warp and very ing silk velvet. hard spun Botany filling, consisting alternately of two right hand and Exarentasma A medieval fabric of un- two left hand yarns. known structure. Estremadura 'Six-cord knitting yarn. Excelsior A commercial variety of Amer- Etaise Ta.ble linen made in Holland. ican cotton, the staple measuring 26- Etamine 'Plain woven glossy, thin, light 30 millimeters; the yield is 33-35 per and open worsted dress goods, similar cent. to bunting; also made of hard spun Exhaust Noil Short and hemp, recombed cotton yarn; it is dyed in the piece. silk noil in England. Heavier cotton etamine is used for drapery. Extra Classical Trade name for the very Etamine a Bluteau Obsolete; all-worsted best silk yarn, made of the choicest French gauze; used for sifting flour. cocoons of the year. Etamine Glacee Made of organzine warp Extra Super A standard grade of ingrain and worsted also as filling; known carpet, having 1,000 warp ends in a ChaHis. yard and 13% pairs of filling in an Etamine du Mans All-wool French eta- inch. mine; obsolete. Extract Style Method of printing textiles, Etamine Viree Obsolete; French etamine, so named after the use of natural having a warp of mixed wool and color extracts used formerly in this silk in a different color from the fill- process. The dyestuffs when applied ing. are composed of the coloring matter Etamine a Plain woven worsted mixed with a mordant. The color is mousseline in France, mostly black usually set by steam. and white; used for church vestments. Extract Wool 'Which was regained from Etching Embroidery Made with black mixed rags by treating them with di- silk and water colors on a fine silk luted sulphuric acid which des-troys ground, mostly in outline, in imita- all vegetable fibers and leaves only tion of etchings. the wool fttiers. EXT 62 FAS

Extracting See Carbonizing. Fall Weight Trade term for medium Eyelet Embroidery See English Embroid- weight coatings, dress goods, and suit- ery. ings. Fallen Wool Wool taken from sheep which died. Fallin Obsolete English woolen cloth; see Falding. Falseh 'Strong, harsh, wiry fiber, yielded by a species of Grewia in Persia; used for ropes, etc. Famis Silk cloth with gold threads in- terwoven, made for the Levant in Fabric Manufactured textiles, irrespec- France. tive of the material made of or the Fancies 'Fabrics outside of the process or weave used. staples. Back made with a col- Face That side of the fabric which is Fancy Coatings ored different the face. intended to be shown while wear- pattern, from ing. Fancy checks Similar to Scotch plaid patterns. Face Goods Usually all-wool fabrics; a full dense nap is raised on the face Fancy Cloth Generally any cloth where after a thorough fulling and is brushed through the warp or filling either in down, resulting in a smooth face. Doe- one or more colors patterns are pro-, skin is such a fabric. duced. Faced Cloth 'Fabrics which have a sepa- Fancy Line-^Braided cord; used for rate set of warp or weft on the wrong windows on ships. side. Fangchow Very light silk , made Facon General, now obsolete, term for in China; is about 22 inches wide. all grades of household and table lin- Fanpak Closely woven soft wool flannel en made in Caen, France. in China. Faconne 'French term for figured fabrics. Fantaisie 1, French for fancy (see); 2, a Factory Cloth Now obsolete term given coarse and inferior grade of silk in to the first factory made gray cot- France. ton muslins in America. Fantasia 'Dress goods in Italy. Factory Yarn Term for law count, un- Farasdanga Fine cotton cloth, made on scoured woolen yarn, used in many hand looms in India. localities for heavy knitted goods for Indian winter wear. Fard 'East printed cotton; used for floor covering. Fag End 1, untwisted end of a 2, rope; Farmer's Satin A finished unfinished end of the of cloth. highly satin, piece made with cotton warp and worsted Fagara Wild silk, produced by the atta- or cotton filling; used for linings. See cus atlas in India. Italian Cloth. of the Fagoting Fancy way joining Farquharson A Highland tartan, com- seams of sheer, light fabrics, produc- as in a Wide an posed follows, repeat: ing openwork, the connecting dark green bar, one-eighth of which thread either in running zigzag line is taken up by a yellow stripe in the or in ladder effect in (French F.) ; center; 'black stripe made as wide embroidery consists in drawing out as half of the above; two narrow dark some of the threads and tying the blue and black lines follow; *dark cross threads. blue bar, with a red stripe in the Failine French woolen serge. middle, the latter measuring the same in width as the yellow; repeat group, Faille .Soft ribbed silk fabric, made in described between the two * in re- plain weave with wider ribs than the versed order; wide dark green bar grosgrain; used for dresses. with yellow in the center, as de- Faille de Chine A very rich, soft, all- scribed above is repeated; *black silk faille. stripe, half the width of the green dark narrower Fair The best of the American cotton bar; blue, somewhat than the of full grades. black; *group narrow black, red and black stripes; repeat Fake 1, a ply; 2, a single coil of rope in stripes, described between the last two nautics. * in reversed order. .See Falaise French serge. Farrar Okra. Falding Coarse English woolen, similar Farrell Prolific A commercial variety of to the frieze; used for clothing and very prolific American cotton, the sta- furniture cover in the 14th century. ple measuring 30-35 millimeters; the yield is 28-30 per cent. Falie Grijn 'Cross ribbed, solid colored, wool camlet; used by the Dutch peas- Fash In England cloth clippings or ant women. fringe. Falkland Islands Somewhat coarse Fashioned 'Hosiery and underwear, knit- cheviot wool; used for dress goods, ted flat and shaped by means of knit goods. dropped stitches, forming flat edges. FAS 63

Fast Color which withstands light, wet, Fell In mill parlance that end of the piece etc. of fabric which has been last woven. Fast Back^l, name for welts where the Felling Silk A two-ply silk thread with wadding filling is more or less inter- a left hand twist. woven with the warp; 2, trade term 'See Jours. for quilts, having the stif.c'hing warp Fellings interwoven on the back. Fellmongering The removal of the wool Fast Back Marseilles Bleached cotton from sheep pelts by any process. quilt, having two sets of warps and Felt Compact sheet of entangled and two sets of fillings, woven plain on matted fibers of wool, fur, mohair, the face and back of the fabric, and often mixed with cotton or other fib- having a heavy wadding weft be- ers which have no felting property. tween the two cloths. It is woven The stock is thoroughly mixed, carded, in embossed patterns. hardened and finally made into felt with the aid of heat and Fast Coloi^-A coarse, stout, heavy and moisture, While felt is and well fulled fabric; used for garments pressure. usually for sailors. originally not a woven or knitted fab- ric, it is often made by weaving or Fast Pile See Lashed Pile. knitting a coarse body, raising a heavy Fastness 'The property of the dye to re- nap which is felted afterward. The tain its color when exposed to the 'finest made of fui and mohair rays of the sun or subject to wash- are used for hats, the thinnest for ing. The color is considered very linings, while the heavier or fast, fast, fairly fast or fugitive, ac- coarser makes are employed for floor cording to the time required (more and table covers, saddle linings, in- than four weeks, more than two sulators, roofing, etc. It is believed weeks, two weeks, and less than a that felt originated with the Sara- week), for fading in southern ex- cens. See also Needle Felt. posure. fibers The fastness to washing is deter- Felting The property of wool or mined by twisting a white yarn of some of the to interlock with cotton and another of wool, together each other if they are rubbed together with the dyed skein, which is scoured under pressure and in moist condi- in a soap bath; if both the liquid and tion while heated. Felting is caused any of the white yarn becomes col- by the serrations on the surface of ored the color is fugitive, while if none the wool. of them is the color is tinged fast. Fencing Term in England for mill ends. Fathom (Standard measure of length for Unfinished ends of calicoes or ropes; one F. is six feet. Fents printed lawns; also short lengths of Fautunn "In Chinese markets a brocaded cloth or damaged ends. or cross ribbed faforic, having silk warp and a heavier worsted filling. Feraghan Small Persian rugs of cotton short Faveur Narrow colored ribbon in France. warp and weft and close and wood tied in Senna knot. The Fawn Canton A twilled with pile fabric, made consists usually of small fish cotton and wool used design warp filling; in a blue field and trailing vine in in the manufacture of waterproof the borders. saddlebags are cloth. Many also made this way. Fayal Lace Fine hand made lace of aloe fibers in Azores. Fergusson A Highland tartan, made as follows: Two heavy black stripes Fayence Prints Cotton fabrics printed with a still wider dark blue stripe be- with indigo paste, which afterward is a field, almost as wide ifixed in an alkaline bath. tween; green as the above three stripes combined. Fayetta A fine, thin and soft dress goods, This green field is split in the center made of organzine warp and fine with a group of black, white and woolen filling in a close warp plush black lines, the two side green bars twill weave; used for dresses, urribrel- thus formed being again split in the la covers, etc. center by a single narrow red line. Fearnaught >A heavy English cheviot Ferlin Obsolete English woolen cloth. with a shaggy face, the filling of wihich Ferrandine 'Lightweight, plain woven usually contains shoddy. dress fabric of silk warp and wool or Feather Cloth Coating, made by weaving cotton filling, similar to the chalys; soft feathers into undyed wool cloth; obsolete. the filling is made of wool and feath- Ferret 'Narrow of cotton, ers twisted together. binding tape wool or silk. Feather Edge Same as picot. Ferric Sulphate Used in weighting black Featheredge Braid 'Picot braid of white dyed silk. cotton or linen; used for laces. Ferrous Sulphate Used in indigo and Feather stitch iA stitch used in embroid- alizarine dyeing, also in dyeing wool ery, imitating feather by branches or cotton black. from a main vein. Peru 'Strong bast fiber, yielded by the Fecamp Bleached or gray French linen cochlospermum in west Africa; used fabric. for ropes. Federitt See Inlet. Feston Stitch Same as buttonhole stitch. FIB 64 FIN

Fibei 1. filaments used as raw material Filament A single, natural strand of silk. for textile fabrics, are divided (1), Filatrice 1, floret silk in France; 2, animal fibers, as wool, hair, silk; (i2), French dress fabric of silk warp and vegetable fibers, as cotton, linen, jute, floret silk filling. ramie, mineral fibers, hemp, etc.; (3), Filature 'Silk reeled in factories, on ma- as asbestos; and (4), artificial fibers, chinery, instead of by hand. as glass, metal threads, various arti- Filet Knotted net or mesh. ficial silks, etc.; 2, yarn, made of square twisted and prepared paper; used for Filet de Carnasiere See Macrame. rugs and mats. Filet Conte French lace, made by using Fiber Silk 'Commercial term for good a coarse square mesh net for foun- quality of artificial silk. dation and filling out the design in Fibrilia Obsolete term for the fibers and darning or cloth stitches. fabrics made from flax, hemp, jute, Filet Guipure Lace or embroidery with ramie; used as substitute by mixing large patterns over a net ground; the them with wool or cotton. patterns not conforming to the square Fibrilize The process by which the fiber meshes of the ground. was separated from the stalk and Has a filet foundation with shortened in length. the pattern formed 'by filling in some name for a fiber Fibronia 'Proprietary of the squares with darning stitches. a It is carded with made of grass; Point Lace made of gold thread and used for or - Filigree shoddy carpets patterns joined with silk bars. ing yarns. Filik Oriental made of goat's Fifth Combing Wool taken from the 1, rugs frair; 2, long goat's hair of light thigh. brown color, in Asia Minor; used for in Figuartoes 'Wool fabric, made Nor- the pile of rugs in natural color. wich, England, in the 17th century. Filled Woolen fabrics which have been Figure The ornamental design on a tex- weighted with flocks. tile fabric, produced by weaving, dye- unbleached linen ing (resist), printing or pressing. Filleting Very heavy, tape in England. Figured Textile fabric having a colored in the United States and Can- design on its face, as compared with Filling il, as in plain fabrics. ada same weft; 2, England equivalent to weighting; 3, see Modes. Figurero A woolen fabric in England Reversible Thick, soft, during the 17th century. Filling napped fabric, made of cotton or wool; used Figures de Chimay Holland laces. for bath robes, , etc. Woven in twill weave with a different colored Figuretta A costly fabric in medieval England. warp and weft, the latter being of a very slack twist, the face and back FijiCotton of the Sea Island type, the being reverse of each other. staple is of very irregular length, but soft silk fine and cohesive. Has large percent- Filo Silk Two-ply, spun thread; for age of unripe fibers. used embroidery. Filoche 1, fabric woven like nets; 2, Fi I 'French name of thread or fVber (silk). plain French serge dress goods of Fil au Chinois Very strong, waxed linen eight leaves and eight picks in a re- thread in Prance; used for heavy sew- peat. ing. Filoselle Soft embroidery thread, made of Fil de Cren A heavily padded cordonnet silk waste or floret silk. (see). Filouche In France a thin, sheer cotton Fil d'Epreuve All-flax, medium fine cloth of plain weave. French linen with blue and white Yarn or thread in old Rome. checks or stripes. Filum 'French sail canvas. Fil de Florence (Silkworm gut). The Fin Trait segregation of the silkworm pressed Finastre Very inferior raw silk from Per- out and used for fish line. sia and Asia Minor. Fil In reeled de Japon France silk, con- Fine '1, woolsorting term in the worsted taining from 3 to 15 filaments. trade, meaning the best sort of the of short wool Fil Plat Bleached French cotton yarn; fleece; 2, the finest sort used for mending and embroidering. taken from the skirts (see) of Eng- lish and coarse wools; 3, English and Fil de Sayette Ply yarn, made of combed crossbred wool, taken from the best also with into wool, mixed silk; made part of an extra fine luster fleece; hard twist for various fabrics and spins 40s to 44s. slack twist for knitting. Fine Tew The lint separated from the Fil au Tonkinois 'Strong, waxed linen long fiber when the flax is dressed; for thread; used the heaviest sewing used for small ropes, cords and tow in France. cloth. Fil de Trace the thread of 1, outlining Finette French cotton lining, made in the in patterns applique needlepoint serge weave. laces; 2, a double thread outlining the design of the point lace before maik- Finger Rug English heavy, coarse rugs, ing it. made on hand looms, with cut pile. FIN 65 FLA

Fingering Four-ply woolen or worsted 13. Calico, the cloth is singed, in knitting yarn England; also slack bleached, boiled off, and printed. twist wool yarn for Berlin embroid- 14. Gingham, is sprinkled, ery. sized, and pressed. Fingram 'Eighteenth century coarse Eng- 15. Velvet, the loops are cut. the lish and Scotch serge. pile brushed, steamed and cut. The final Finishing processes through Very strong, straight, smooth which most of the fabrics are in put fiber, yielded by the leaves of the order to them certain charac- give Furcraea gigantea of South America; teristics and to increase their sala- used for bagging, etc. bleness. The finishing process will Fir Wool iSee Pine Wool. often radically change the character of a woolen (like chinchilla) after it Fireproof Fabrics Made of asbestos, also is taken from the loom, while wors- of other fibers, in the latter case the teds and silks are not changed as cloth being rendered fireproof by fundamentally. The more important chemical treatment. Permanent fire- finishing processes are (several of proofing is obtained by treating the them being usually omitted with the fabric in a solution of sodium stan- various fabrics); perching, burling, nale of 45 degrees Tw. After a thor- mending, bleaching, starching, water- ough drying the fabric is treated with ing, calendering, beetling, scouring, a solution of ammonium sulphate of singeing, sizing, weighting, printing, 15 degrees Tw. This process was in- dyeing, waterproofing, felting, crab- vented by Prof. Wm. Henry Perkin. bing, tentering, napping, lustering, Fir*t wool taken from each under Combing Long pressing, mercerizing (see the sides of the fleece. own head). Fisherman's Lace See Point Pecheur. Below will be described the finishing of some of the standard fabrics: Flume Variety of Egyptian flax, yields 1. finish, the fabric is mois- coarse fibers. tened and an erect and loose is nap Five O'clocks /Fine damask linen table- raised on the then dried and face, cloths; used in England. lightly shorn. 2. Saxony finish, the fabric is first Fivette -A lightweight French cotton or fulled properly, then rolled and 'woolen lining, woven in diagonal stretched, gigged, shorn short, then twill. brushed and pressed. Fixing Agents Chemicals which attach 3. Cheviot, the fabric is fulled but the dyestuffs or the mordants to the slightly, dried, shorn and pressed, fabric. showing the of the weave pattern Flaine Ticking made in France. clearly. Flake Yarn T*wo-ply cotton, wool, or silk 4. Chinchilla, the twilled filling face yarns, flakes or nu'bs in a dif- is gigged until a full and heavy nap having ferent color at certain is raised which is shorn to the re- intervals. quired length: the fabric is then Flamme 1, French for yarns printed with whipped, face down, ard run throug'h one or more colors after spun; 2, a the Ch. machine, which forms the nap variety of woolen dress fabrics made into nu'bs. in France of printed yarns; 3, in 5. Serge finish, the goods are care- 'France a plain woven colored cloth, fully burled and singed, cralsbed and made of linen warp and cotton fill- scoured and shorn, producing a clear ing. face. Flanders Flax Very fine ifiax of long 6. Melton finish, the goods are fulled, white soft fillers, grown in Belgium. steamed, dyed and shorn and finally Flanders Seventeenth brushed. Serge century lightly English worsted fabric. 7. Kersey, after thorough burling the goods are fulled, gigged and the Flanelle de Chine A plain woven French nap laid. The fine grade goods are fabric, made of all-wool and given a then steamed and pressed, while the very smooth face. It is dyed with lower grades are given a water finish. indigo in the piece, the selvage being left white. 8. Face goods, a very thorough burling and fulling is followed by Flanelle de Rouen Obsolete French fab- raising a dense nap, the goods are ric, made of hemp warp and wool fill- then steamed, the nap laid down as ing, forming various colored cross close as possible and finally pressed. stripes; used for skirts, house dresses. 9. Blanket, if made of wool, the Flannel 1, in England grade of shoddy, goods are felted, gigged to dense nap, obtained from flannel; 2, wo- cut to the required length and bound. loosely ven woolen lightweight cloth, Cotton blankets are napped. napped on one side and used ordinarily for 10. Poplin, the goods are singed, shirting, etc. It is crabbed, dyed, and shorn. underwear, mostly made with a two harness loom, but it 11. Covert finish face cloth, same as can be made in plain or twill cassimeres. weave; 3, name for sleazy, uncouth 12. Beaver, the goods are fulled, the looking fabrics, which are "made" in lower grades also weighted with the finishing process, by teazling the flocks, gigged and the nap well laid, face and treating the nap; as, for in- then steamed and finally shorn short. stance, the chinchilla. FLA 66 FLI

Flannelette Twilled, lightweight wash- Gxx, Gxxx; the Walloon flax is mark- able cotton fabric, made of slack ed II, III, and IV. The flax from Ire- twist single yarns; it is woven in land and France is known by the stripe effects or printed on the face names of the counties and district it and has a short nap raised on the comes from. Dutch flax is graded back; used for kimonos, house dresses. II/IV, I/V, II/V, VI, VII, VIII, IX. Flat Cambric Cheap, plain, woven, piece- In chemical properties the pure dyed cotton fa'bric, finished with a bleached linen is similar to cotton, the luster and folded in laps. following tests serving to distinguish Flat Fold The way of putting up certain unbleached linen from cotton: treated with olive linen becomes translu- fabrics by rolling them without doub- oil, cent and cotton and ling. opaque white; when burned the ends of the cotton in Flat Goods Knit goods, made flat filbers are tufted, those of the linen stitc'h without any ribs or fashioning. round; treated with concentrated so- Flat Point Lace Made perfectly flat with- lution of caustic soda both cotton and out any padded or raised parts. linen shrink and curl, the former be- the latter yellow in Flavet A thinly woven, inferior English coming grayish, treated with concentrated sul- serge; (see also Lingette). color; phuric acid and then with diluted Flax A slender annual plant, the bast ammonia water, linen remains un- fiber of which is called linen. The changed, while cotton becomes soluble plants are pulled before ripe, retted in water. In fabrics the tests are: in water until the (submerged woody if it is a white fabric a piece is boiled parts of the stalk are decomposed), in 50 per cent solution of caustic soda, after which the straw is crushed, which renders the cotton pale clear broken between rollers, scutched yellow and the linen dark yellow. A the of the (causing removal woody sample of the fabric is washed in a parts with revolving blades) and solution of cyanin in alcohol, then hackled (or drawn through iron rinsed and after treated with thin so- fiber from combs). The ranges lution of sulphuric acid, after which creamy to greenish or bluish color be- the linen will become blue, while the fore bleached. cotton stays white. Under the micro- The most important grades of the scope the linen fiber discloses regular flax are: In Russia the motchenetz cylindrical or polygonal cells, with and slanetz (see each), the first con- many transverse joints and a lumen taining the following varieties: Po- in the center. chocon, Uglitz, Rieff, Jaropol, Ste- Flecked Yarn or cloth with a flaw, purin. The varieties of the slanetz caused by a spot of some strange col- are called Bejetsky (usually best), or. Krasmoholm, Troer, Kashin, Gospo- Fleece '1, the entire coat of wool shorn sky, Nerechta, Wologda, Jaroslaw, from the at one time; 2, cotton, Gresowetz, Kostroma. The flax mar- sheep socalled, during the process of carding. keted through Riga, Dunabourg, and .Before that it is called lap (see), and Kowno, is graded K, HK, PK, HPK, it leaves the it is made SPK, HSPK, ZK, GZK, HZK, RG. The after card, into sliver Called also wefo; Archangelsk (Russia) grades for dew up (see). 3, in knitted underwear the nap on retted toales are first, second, third, the inside. and fourth crown, and first and sec- ond zabrack. The marks for Dorpat Fleece Wool All the wool clips after the and Pernau (Russia) flax are: IX>E>, first shearing. OD, D, HD, R, G. The marks for Fleeced, Fleece Lined Knitted fabrics, water retted flax from Hoffs (Russia) made with a finer face and a heavier are: HD, PHD, FPHD, SFPHD, and soft spun back yarn, the latter XHDX, XRX. The marks for Pskoff being napped in the finishing. are: OD, PWW, OW, O, OO, OOO, Fleecy HosieryIn England, knitted , PII, PHI. The marks for the flax goods with looped face and smooth from Reval and Dorpat, exported in iback. bobbins, are: GR, HD, D, OD, OOD. Flemish Holland Stout, woven, un- The Petrograd marks are classed, plain bleached linen fabric, made in Bel- comprising: Fabrichng, Otbornoi, first crown, second crown; superior siretz, gium. comprising Polochno, Fabrichng, Ot- Fleur de Soie .High grade French satin, bornoi, first crown, second crown; made in twelve-harness weave. medium siretz; common siretz, com- Fleur Volante iLoops or other ornaments prising Otbornoi, first crown, second on the outer edge of the cordonnet crown. (see). The Koenigsberg (Germany) marks Fleuret Obsolete name for fine Rouen are: FWPCM, FGPOM, WPC1M, linen. LPCM, FPCM, PCM, PI, P2. French woolen fab- In Belgium, the Courtrai flax is Fleuron Lightweight often mixed with silk or linen; graded I/III, II/III, I/IV, II/IV, I/V, ric, obsolete. II/V, VI; the Flemish or blue flax grades are II/IV, I/V, II/V, VI, VII, Flick In England the nap raised on VIII, IX. The flax from Fumes and flannelette and other fabrics. Bergues is marked A, B, C, D; from Flipe

Float 1, flaw in the cloth, caused by loose Flouncing Laces and embroideries made threads floating instead of being as yard goods intended for flounces on bound in the weave; 2, a certain dresses. length of the warp or filling in the Flourishing Thread Lustered linen fabric, left free between two points thread; used for embroidering. of for the of binding purpose forming Flush (Same as Float. certain designs. A very short cotton waste; used for Floches 'Fine sewing silk in France. heavy backing yarns. Flocks Very short, unspinna'ble wool Fold 1, same as (see) in yarn; 2, fibers, produced either as a waste in ply of same as to double the mill or by cutting up rags, clip- layer cloth; 3, pings, etc.; used for weighting fab- (see). rics. Folded Yarn In England yarns composed Flocked Goods Such woolens or union of single thread plies. cloths, which are weighted by the Fond In hand-made laces the ground, means of impregnating flocks (see) over which the patterns are spread in into the back of the fabric order out. It is either a mesh or is made to increase the This can be weight. up of brides (see). done in dry or wet state. Fond Mirroir Rich French silver or gold Floconne 'French for yarn or fabrics brocade dress goods, made with a taf- having small flakes; also woolen dress feta foundation, over which the metal goods, having the nap raised in the was laid flat, producing a mirror-like finishing in various figures, as squares, effect; obsolete. dots, etc., or twisted into nubs. Fond de A in old In England a coarse and stout, Neige fancy ground consisting of brides with groups plain woven hemp or flax fabric, heav- laces, of knots on them. ily coated with varnish; used as in- expensive floor covering. Fond d'or French term for with Flor or Floret Linen An open face cot- gold ground. ton or linen both and canvas, warp Footing 1, the edge of the lace flouncing weft yarns being equally spaced from which is seiwn to the fabric; 2, the each other. repairing of holes in the foot of stock- Florameda A fabric mentioned in 17th ings. century English manuscripts, believed Forbes A Highland tartan, made as fol- to have been woven with flower pat- lows: A wide dark green bar, split terns. in the center by a group of black, FlorenceVery light, plain woven silk white and black lines; black stripe, lining, the warps and wefts being measuring half the width of the green; placed the saime distance apart, made a navy blue bar (as wide as the green), with single warp. Sometimes mixed split in the center with a pair of black with wool. stripes, placed close together. Whites woolens, see Florentine 1, same as denim; 2, twilled Forest English silk dress goods, made plain or in Penistone. stripes and patterns; 3, fine, twilled. Forest Wool Fibers extracted from pine English woolen; 4, a twill composed needles; used for coarse blankets, of eight ends and eight picks; used mixed with cotton or wool. for glossy fabrics. Forestieri Various colored, mostly scar- Florentine Lace In the 16th century a let red, fulled woolens in Egypt. raised '.ace made in Flor- needle-point Cloth the United ence. Forestry Adopted by States Government for the forestry Floret 1, figured wool satin, made with a service; it is a strong, clear faced, high finish; used in England for twilled olive drab worsted; comes in dresses; 2, French term for brocaded various weights. silks; 3, yarn made of the best kind of silk waste. Forfars Unbleached coarse and heavy linen, made in England; used for tow- Floretta 1, see Floss Silk; 2, very fine els. plain woven bleached Belgian linen. Fossys East Indian cotton cloths. Florette il, 18th century woolen fabric in Fota Thick, strong and durable cotton England; 2, same as Floret. cloth, made in India; used for gar- Florida 1, a very fine grade of Sea Island ments for native women. cotton, having a uniform, long, fine Fotaloongee -Striped East Indian faJbric, and silky staple; 2, trade name in made of bast fibers, mixed with silk. Roumania for a printed ; 3, in Austria a coarse, bleached, plain Fottes East Indian checked and striped woven cotton fabric, with a heavy cotton cloths. size used for stiffener in col- finish; Fougeres Various linen and canvas lars, cuffs and shirt bosoms. cloths in France, made as coarse pack- Floss Silk -Fine but tangled waste silk, ing canvas or bleached household forming the outside of the cocoon and linen. which cannot be reeled; also the yarn Foulard light and thin silk fab- made thereof. Very ric, woven plain or twilled, printed in Plots In laces several rows of picots, conventional style; used for summer partly covering each other. dresses. FOU FUL

Foulardin In Austria a light, plain woven Frieze Flannel Heavy, twilled flannel, cotton fabric, starched and highly fin- made of cotton and wool in mixture ished; used for lining. effect. Foulardine Obsolete cotton dress goods, Frigidines A French haircloth. made similar to foulard. Fringe -Made by a heavy thread or wire Foule French for fulled fabrics. being placed in the loom a certain dis- tance from the selvage of the cloth, Fourre Another French term for mate- acting as if it was one of the warp lasse (see). threads catching certain picks. After Fourth Combing 'Wool taken from the the cloth is woven, the wire is re- rump of the fleece. moved and the fringe cut. Frailejon White or rust colored wooly Frlquette A machine-made lace, having fiber taken from the surface of the fine and clear meshes and made of leaves of the Frailejon in Venezuela, fine thread. It is made as a veil and Colombia, and Ecuador. also embroidered in a light flower de- sign along the edge. Frame Tape A stout, half bleached linen Frisadoes (Sixteenth or cotton mixed tape in England. century English worsted, similar to the -bays. Framework Knitted Fabrics Made from Frise French for curl or horizontally knitted or weft threads in pile, terry. plain, rib or pearl stitches. Frise or Frieze 'Formerly the finest grade of linen made in Holland. It was very Franella A cotton cloth in napped strong, stout, grained and well - canton flannel and colored Paraguay; ed; obsolete. and printed flannelets in Chile. Frisette Fine fabric, the face covered Fraser A Highland tartan with a red with small loops; made of cotton and ground, composed as follows: A group wool in Holland. of two dark green (on the outside) Prison 1, French for the tangled outside and two dark blue stripes (on the waste of the silk cocoons; used for inside), separated from each other by an inferior frieze In narrow red a red field made as spun silk; 2, lines; France. wide as the above group and split in the middle by a narrow white line. Frisonette A low grade of frison (see). Fray Unravel. Frisure 1. core thread, with a gold or silver thread wound around; used in Frazadas 'Cotton blankets in Latin- passementeries; 2, thin gold or silver American countries. wire braid for military uniforms. French Backed Worsted dress goods, Frivol ite (French for tatting. made with a welt in backing satin Holland In the 18th the weave. Prize century finest grade of holland imported to French Cambric The finest grade of England, made one-fourth, one-half, cambric. or one yard wide; it was not calen- dered or finished in any way, except French Carpet! ng^Same as moccadoes bleached. (see). Name for the chinchilla finish- French See French Frizzing Drawing System. ing process in England. French Flannel^Soft and very slightly Frocs Coarse and heavy twilled French twilled wool made with napped fabric, woolen; obsolete. stripes, checks or solid colors; used for men's and women's wear. Frog Ornamental facings, made of braid for uniforms, pajamas, etc. French Foot Hosiery made with a seam in the middle of the sole. Frotte French for toweling. of the wool French Knot An embroidery stitch, made Fud Waste carding machine; used with usually with heavy thread, producing mixed shoddy. a small knot. Fukusa A square piece of silk, often embroidered or decorated; used French System Used in spinning worste* richly In Japan to cover boxes containing yarns. The wool is combed dry, the presents. sliver is drawn between rolls, but the fibers are parallel and not twisted Full Chintz The ground is printed in two until the actual spinning. The yarn shades of red. is not as smooth as that made accord- Full Covei Trade term for book muslins, ing to the Bradford system (see). which have the extra weft threads French Yarns Worsted yarns, spun dry, inserted in the ground to the French continuously according system (see). weave. Fribs Short second cuts of wool from Full Fashioned Knit goods made on the merino fleece. machine flat with dropped stitches at Frieze A heavy and coarse woolen over- the selvage, thus conforming to the coating, having a nap on the face; shape of the body after the seams often made in brown, gray or green are joined together. mixture in or twill effect, plain weave; Full Gauze Weave having the warps it is well fulled and has a harsh feel. cross other warps in both directions. The wool is usually coarse and well mixed with shoddy. The filling is Full Regular 'Hosiery and underwear usually heavier than the warp. having hand knitted seams. FUL 69 GAU

Fulled Woolen fabric which is napped Galette Pierced, fuzzy or very thin co- and then felted (see under Felt). coons; used for waste silk; also the silk made of such cocoons. Fulpat Commercial term in India for weak and gummy, immature jute fiber, Galettes Lustrous silk taffeta in France, cut before flowering; it has a good made of hard twist silk waste. color. Galgal See Kumbi. Fundatum -Believed to have been a gold tissue of the Middle Ages. Galiclia Pile cotton carpet, made in In- dia Fui 'Name for chenille pile in carpets, Gallini cotton derived from the etc. Egyptian Sea Island, having a very strong, long Furies Obsolete or hand painted printed staple of light golden color. silk satin, said to have come from Sort of cotton in India. Gallipoli raw grown southern Italy. Furniture Cord Ply cord, used for trim- Galloon iNarrow tape or binding of cot- ming upholstery, the plies usually be- ing core yarns, covered with silk or ton, wool or silk, showing usually fan- mercerized cotton. cy weave; used for trimming dresses, also The Furniture Twill A twilled cotton fabric uniforms, for lacing. Eng- lish widths are: four- in England, usually &4 square; it is Twopenny, and ten- with large, bright colored de- penny, sixpenny, eightpenny, printed the old having sign and is used for drapery. penny, penny pieces been taken as gauge. Fustian >1, medieval stout and heavy scarlet worsted fabric in England; 2, in the Galway 1, coarse, thick, coating, ISth century a printed fabric in Eng- made in Ireland of Irish wools; 2, also red flannel. land, made with linen warp and cot- a thick, coarse ton tilling; 3, a variety of closely Gambiei A fast brown dye, obtained woven and heavy cotton fabrics being from the leaves, flowers, and wood of either cut pile goods or have a stout various acacia trees in India, mar- weft face. They are woven with one keted as a dark colored paste. set of and two sets of filling. warp See Ambari They are known as velveteen, swans- Gambo Hemp Hemp. down, moleskin, beaverteen, canton, or Gambroon '1, strong, light, twilled union diagonal corduroy and imperial. They linen or union worsted; used for sum- are mostly used for clothes. mer garments; a men's overcoating, Fustian of Naples Fine medieval English called G., originated in England in the worsted fabric; used for garments. 19th century; made with ply yarn, composed of cotton and worsted Fustic A yellow dyestuff obtained from strands; 2, a twilled linen lining. . the wood of the chiorophora tinotoria tree in Cuba; formerly used with mor- Gamelotte Fiber yielded by the Fim- danting, now largely replaced by other bristylis complanata in Ceylon; used dyes. for ropes and cordage. Gammadion or gold cloth, iflgured with Greek crosses. Ganse 'French for round or ridged sou- tache, or braid of silk, gold or silver. Garber Commercial variety of upland American cotton from Alabama, the staple measuring 18-22 millimeters; the yield is atout 34 per cent. Twilled and waterproofed Gare Glossy, hair-like fibers grown on worsted coating, made with fine the legs of the sheep; they look and diagonal ribs; piece dyed. Also made behave like kemp. of silk or wool, a softer fabric, used Garnetting Process to recover fibers (for for dresses. the purpose of re-manufacturing Gaberum 'An East Indian cotton fabric, them) from rags, clippings, etc., where made with check patterns. they are mixed with other fibers. The recovery is done by means of chemi- satin of finish; Gajj East Indian high cals which leave the desired fibers used for dresses the native women. by intact, but destroy all the other com- GalaCoarse cotton cloth; used for serv- ponent fibers. in Scotland. ants' clothes Garniture 'French for trimming. Scotch made in G. Galashiels tweeds, Gassed 'Yarn or fabric, which underwent Galatea a, narrow, solid colored or print- the gassing process. with ed washable cotton fabric, woven

Gaufrer French for pressing various em- Gazzatum 'Fine and sheer silk or linen bossed patterns on fabrics with hot gauze of the Middle Ages, said to . have originated in Gaza, Asia. Gauge In knit goods it determines the Gebanga Leaf fiber yielded by the closeness of the wales and the fine- Corypha gebanga, a palm in Java; ness of the fabric. It is expressed used for cloth, nets, ropes and bags. the number of the nee- variously, by Genappe Ply and hard twist gassed dles in one and one-half inches or in yarn, made of worsted, mohair or al- one inch. paca, often mixed with silk; used for Gaunt Medieval woolen fabric, made in fringes, etc. Ghent, Belgium. Genapping Process of gassing worsted Gauze I, a sheer and usually light woven yarns. fabric, mostly of cotton or silk, in which some of the warp ends are Generos 'Bleached cotton sheetings in interlaced with each other. See plain Latin- America. gauze, full gauze, and leno; 2, very Generos Crudos General trade term for sheer knitted fabrics. gray cotton goods in Latin-America. Gauze Flannel Very light, striped shirt- Geneva Embroidery 'Made by sewing vel- ing flannel, having silk warp. vet bands to form checks on coarse Gaws In Scotland term denoting thin canvas foundation and filling out the places in the cloth. square with colored silk or wool. Gaze Barege Very light dress goods, Genghis Rugs Made by the nomad Turk- made of silk warp and wool filling or mans west of Persia. They are of all wool. It is often printed. small, heavy, all-wool rugs, the warp Gaze a Bluter Very fine and light silk made sometimes of goat's hair, the gauze; used for sifting flour. long loose pile is tied in Ghiordes knot. The design shows crude geo- Gaze Brillantine Very light, French silk metrical patterns in which white col- dress goods, with a high luster. or is used extensively. The sides are Gaze Cristal Obsolete very light French finished with selvage and the ends silk and dress goods, made with warp with selvage and fringe. having small bright and dull spots, Genoa In the twill alternating on the face. England one-and-two used in various heavy materials. Gaze do Fil Obsolete French gauze, made of linen and given a light starch fin- Genoa Embroidery The patterns are ish. It was usually striped. worked with a corded outline over fine muslin, this being cut away from Gaze Filoche Very light, French silk leno between the patterns. dress goods; obsolete. Genoa Lace 1, imitation Cyprus lace of 'An all-silk French Gaze Fond Filoche now fine bobbin with and gold, obsolete; 2, gauze, made organzine warp made collars, handkerchiefs and fichus filling, forming transversal bars grege made in the 17th century; 3, see also by grouping several threads; obsolete. Macrame. Gaze d'ltalie Obsolete French gauze, Genoa Velvet 1, fine all-silk made of natural silk yarn. very thick, velvet, having large made and patterns; Gaze Lisse French gauze, very light in Genoa, Italy, centuries ago; 2, a sheer, made of natural silk yarn. weft pile cotton velvet, having a one-and-'tiwo twill Gaze 'Marabout 1, very light, sheer ground. French gauze, made of natural silk; Georgia Prolific Commercial varieties of short 2, a pile faibric, made with very short staple upland cotton from Geor- stripes of plush, alternating in three gia. colors, over a thin gauze foundation; ^French silk dress goods, msed as dress fabric; obsolete. Georgienne made with ply warp. There are 10 Gaze Milanaise Light, sheer fabric, hav- or 16 leaves and 10 or 16 fillings in a ing equal number of warp and filling repeat. ends in a inch. It is made of square German Prints IMedium or coarse cotton socalled "milanaise" yarn (see). print goods in South Africa, especially Gaze Ondee Very light dress goods or in blue with white patterns and a trimming fabric, made of organzine good finish. warp and filling of "ondee" silk. German Stitch in embroidery used where Gaze de Paris Very light French silk the foundation can be exposed; it is dress goods, made of fine organzine composed .of tapestry and tent stitches warp and trame filling. alternating parallel with part of the Gaze Perron Obsolete French silk leno, ground between them. borders on dress forming goods. German Serge Known in England in the Gaze Platree iStriped French gauze, made 18th century, made with worsted warp of yellow silk and given a light starch and woolen filling. finish, obsolete. German Wool See Berlin Wool. for leno. Gaze Tour Anglais French Germantown Yarn 'Thick, slack twist Gazi Coarse and heavy cotton cloth, made woolen yarn, made four-ply and used in East India; used for winter clothing for hand knitting and other fancy by the poorer classes; said to have work, made originally in Germantown, originated in prehistoric times. Pa., U. S. A. GER GNA

Germuset Damask made in Asia Minor for shirts, shirtwaists, etc. The with cotton and silk warp and colored zephyr gingham, a softer and lighter patterns. dress fabric than the madras ging- Gerras or Garras Strong East Indian cot- ham, is executed in a great variety of ton cloth; used for the household; fancy colored effects in stripes, obsolete. cords, checks, and plaids in plain or twill weave. Getee See Jetee. East Indian checked cotton Ginghamet Cotton muslin with striped Ghabrum or cloth. figured patterns. Ghagi Highly finished East Indian silk Gingeras 'An East Indian silk cloth. satin; used for dresses by the native Giselle^A sheer fabric in France, woven of women. worsted yarn. Gharbasti East Indian fabric, made of Glace 1, French for glossy, lustrous and cotton and wild silk filling. warp shot effect; 2, dress goods, made of Ghent Lace Narrow bobbin lace, similar fine and well stretched cotton warp to Valenciennes, the threads of the and mohair filling in plain colors or square mesh ground being twisted two figured. and one-half times. Glangorra All-wool English homespun, Gherad 'Washable, white East Indian silk impregnated with antiseptics, claimed fabric. to resist disease germs. Indian bleached cotton Ghetee .East Glanzstoff German copyrighted name for and a finish. cloth, gassed given high an artificial silk. Ghilam Silk cloth, made in Nanking. Fine, loosely woven English ('See GiMiam.) linen with blue or red warp stripes; Ghiordes Knot In Oriental rugs the ends used for the household, embroidery, of the hand knotted pile alternate with every two threads of the warp. This etc. knotting- produces less knots to the Glass Yarn Very fine glass filaments, square inch than the Senna knotting made up into braids, etc. (see). Glauber Salt Used in dyeing wool, as it in Asia Minor. The Ghiordes Rugs 'Made increases the affinity of the fiber for of wool antique G. rugs were made the dyes. or silk in very fine weave and de- smooth to the sign. The close short pile is tied in Glaze The polish given cloth friction with Ghiordes knot. The design is usually face of the by the calender. that of a prayer rug. The modern G. a heated rugs are large and much inferior, con- Glen Checks or Glen Urquhardt Original- tain much cotton. The pile is very long ly Scotch cheviots and homespuns, and loose. The patterns and colors made in combination of two checks of are varied and often harsh. different eizes, having an equal number checks Gigging Process of napping the fabric. of threads in each size. The are in two colors, often Gilan A grade of Persian raw silk. usually only having additional colored ornamental Gilham A 'Chinese silk dress goods. threads. The fabric is made now in Ciller Line spun of horsehair. woolens and worsteds for men's wear. in Asia Gimian 'Fine velvet rugs, made All-wool, mottled English Minor. tweed. Yarn made of silk cover over a Gimp Gloria A thin and very closely woven cotton or wire core; used for trim- fabric, made with silk warp and wors- laces, etc. mings, embroidery, ted or cotton in a three harness and filling Gimp Yarn 1, twisted of a hard spun warp face twill weave; it ie dyed In term a soft spun strand; 2, English the piece, and used for umbrella cover- for fancy core yarns. ing, also dress goods. Ginestra General term in Italy for sev- Glorietta A lighter grade of gloria (see), eral fibrous grass-like plants; used made of cotton. for oakum, tow or coarse fa/brics. natural or luster of Ginestra Cloth 'Coarse, homespun fabric, Gloss The imparted made of the fibers of the Spanish fabrics. broom by Italian peasants. Glossaret English dress goods of fine Gingas Obsolete French linen, made wool and silk; obsolete. 27 inches with blue and about wide, Glossop Plain woven bleached cotton white checks; used for trousers for fabric, made in England in pieces 50 sailors. yards long and one yard wide, with Gingham Lightweight, washable, stout, 76 ends and 88 picks in a square inch; all cotton woven in yarn dyed fabric, used for calicoes. stripes, checks or plaid. The common gingham is woven in plain weave, fin- Glovers' Wool 'Which was removed with ished with starch sizing; used for lime from the skin of slaughtered dresses. The madras gingham is made sheep. of finer count of yarn and a larger made of the leaves number of colors is used in the same Gnafi Very fine mat, the used for garments pattern than in the staple gingham of pandanus; Islands. and is woven in various weaves; used in Tonga GOA 72 GRA

Goats' Hair Some of them, like the cash- Gordon A Highland tartan, made as fol- mere, are among the finest fibers and lows in a repeat: Dark green bar, used for the costliest fabrics; the split in the middle with a group of mohair is yielded by the Angora goat; black, yellow and black lines; * black the alpaca is taken from a Peruvian stripe, half the width of the green goat; common goats' hair is coarse, bar; blue line, black line, blue line, * thick, does not felt well and is used black line; blue stripe, half the for coarser rugs and fabrics. width of the green; repeat group des- cribed between the two in re- Gobelin 1, a tapestry faibric, made of wool *, a versed order. or silk, the filling entirely covering the closely set warp threads (which form Gordon Cord In England, a twilled cord tine ribs) and show various designs weave. with human animal floral, etc., figures. The genuine G. is made by hand with Gorevan Rugs Fine Persian rugs of me- the use of needles or small, flat shut- dium size, made with cotton warp, tles, the different colored yarns reach- the close wool pile is tied in Ghiordes far there is call ing only as as for knot. The design is usually a center in the instead of ex- them design, medallion with curved outlines on a tending from selvage to selvage. The cream colored field. fabric is free of all nap or nubs and the pattern is shown in its complete- Gorgoran iHeavy East Indian silk cloth, ness, but reversed, on the back. The having stripes woven in two kinds of G. was invented by a man of that weaves; now obsolete. name in Paris in the 15th century, Gorilla Yarn thick nu'b and the factory purchased from his iFancy yarn. descendants by the government of Gospodsky Trade term in Russia for a Louis XIV. This factory still turns grade of carefully cultivated, retted out the finest hand-made G.; 2, a and scutched flax. loom woven fabric, made with heavy Gossamer 1, fine silk gauze; used for warp and fine filling, printed after- silk fabric wards to imitate genuine G.; used for veils; 2, light waterproofed and used for wraps. curtains, hangings, and drapery; 3, an obsolete silk and wool dress fab- Gossypium Generic scientific name for ric with pastel colored brocaded fig- cottons. ures. Gothrough

Grain d'Orge 1, fine, bleached and fig- Gray Wash A process in the bleaching ured French linen; obsolete. 2, solid of cotton piece goods, consisting of colored French serge dress fabric, soaking the fabric in water and keep- made with eight leaves and six* picks ing it wet for a couple of hours. in a repeat; 3, a very strong durable, A commercial of twilled woolen cloth in France, orig- Grayson variety pro- lific and early inally made with designs imitating ripening upland cotton, the staple 23-25 millimet- seeds, hence the name. It is dyed in measuring ers; the yield is 34-i36 cent. the piece. per Grain de Poudre Fulled French woolen Grease Dyeing (Process used in dyeing cloth with very light nap; obsolete. serges and cotton warp woolen cloths without scouring the first. Grain de Poule^French serge dress goods, having eight leaves and six picks in a Grebe Cloth iLong napped cotton cloth; repeat. used for underwear. Grains Grossiers (Coarse French ticking. Grecian d, name, for a huckaback weave; used for coarse towels; 2, woven quilt, Grammont Originally a white French made of bleached ply yarn of low bobbin lace, later black silk lace re- count for warp and filling. The pat- sembling the Chantilly but of inferior tern being geometrical . quality; now obsolete. Greek Lace (Cut or drawn work embel- Grand Lez white All-wool, army coating lished with various stitches or addi- in France. tions of needle-point lace; called also Grand Lion 'Figured table linen, made in Reticella. France. Green Linen Trade term for linen cloth Grand-caen Obsolete French linen, made woven of unbleached or "green" yarn. of hard spun flax or hemp thread in Green Yarn Trade term for undressed plain weave or small dobby design. jute or unbleached linen yarn. Grande Rose 'Fine, bleached and figured Grege Trade term for raw silk which Is French damask linen; obsolete. reeled from the cocoons. Grande Venise Very fine damask table Grege Yarn 'Strong yarn, made of wool linen having large flowers for design, and silk. made in France and Holland. Grenada 1, a variety of West Indian raw Grandine 18th century woolen fabric in cotton. 2, light fabric, made with England. black cotton warp and mohair or al- in a five-leaf weft satin Grandrelle 1, a ply yarn spun of strands paca filling weave. of different colors. -2, cotton shirting, made in warp satin weave. The two- Grenade 'French table linen, made in ply warp contains different colored plain weave or with small dobby de- strand. sign; obsolete. 2, a fine fabric, made Grandrill or Grandurel See Grandrelle. in France of wool and silk; used for table cover. Granite An irregular, mottled and peb- bled effect in the weave, produced by Grenadine 1, French serge dress goods, an irregular wide twill. made with eight leaves and four picks in a repeat; 2, fine, open light dress Granite Cloth fulled Obsolete; English made of silk or mixed woolen dress fabric, wool, goods, producing a with cotton and having more or less granit-like grain by the warp or the elaborate warp stripes; 3, the finest filling. grade of stout, hard-twist silk cord, Grant A Highland tartan with a red made of several strands twisted to- ground, the repeat made as follows: gether; used for laces; 4, a table Wide red field, split by two pairs of damask linen in France similar to the narrow dark blue lines; 'narro'w pale Grenade. 5, a black silk lace worn in blue and narrow red lines of same France during the 18th century. width as blues; dark blue three stripe, Grenadine Crepon (All-wool black dress times as wide as narrow 'blue lines; * goods, having open check patterns and dark green field of same width as rilbs. red field, with red, green, red lines (of same width as narrow blue lines) Griffin 'Commercial variety of cotton at each side, and red, blue, red, blue, from America, yielding the finest and red lines (of same width as narrow longest staple known; the bolls are blue stripes) in the middle; repeat large, yielding 28-<2>9 per cent lint. described group between the two *, Grin A flaw in the cloth which results in reversed order. from the warp rib showing through Grass Cloth Is made of fine ramie in the covering threads. China; used in natural brown, Gris Gray cotton goods in the Philip- bleached white or dyed colors; used pines. for summer clothing or drawn work. It is a loom-finished fabric, woven Gris fer Bleute French army cloth; used plain on hand looms in narrow widths. ifor coats. Gris- brun (French made Gratel Twilled, colored linen cloth, made military cloth, in Germany. about 48 inches wide after fulling; made of long staple wool, one-third Gray I'nbleached and undyed cotton or white and two-thirds black wool, in linen fabric. natural color, being mixed. GRI GUA

Grisaille 1, French for gray mixture Gros des Indes Plain woven, all-silk (pepper and salt) effects; 2, plain dress goods, made with two warps, woven French dress goods, made with one single, the other double or triple, a black and white printed warp and and two fillings, one very fine, the worsted filling. other reeled from eight to 10 natural strands, resulting in a cross-ribbed Grisette colored Originally light, gray effect. dress goods, made in France of mix- Gros de Londres silk fabric with ture of silk, cotton and wool, or of all Glossy fine flat cross than wool, and used for garments by the ribs, lighter faille; the lower classes. Later made in all filling is not beaten -up tight; used for dresses. colors and in very good qualities, sim- ilar to etamines. G. is the original Gros de Lyon Cross ribbed French silk but obsolete name for a strong, wool fabric, made with a heavy filling and etamine. two sets of warps, one containing one- the other two-thirds of the Grist In the standard size for third, warp Scotland, ends. ropes, meaning one inch diameter and three strands, each of them twisted Gros de Messine Silk dress goods with together of 20 yarns. fine ribs and organzine warp, which forms the face. GrittyWool with a dry and hard feel, Gros de Plain woven silk owing to the presence of sand. Naples fabric of Italian origin, made with ply warp Grog^English technical term for any fab- of organzine and a heavier two-ply rics woven ends together, irrespective (filling, forming cross ribs; used for of the construction of the fabric. coats, hats, etc. Grogram Coarse, loosely woven and stif- Gros d'Oran iFrench silk brocade; used ened diagonal silk or mohair fabric for dresses. with a thick weft; used for cloaks; Gros d'Orleans Twilled ribbed from now obso- fabric, originally Scotland; made with two sets of filling, one be- lete. ing of the same color as the warp and Groningen 'Pale colored waiter retted flax, the other a glazed yarn. from Northern Holland. Gros de Suez Finely ribbed silk lining for Gros, Grosse French for stout, thick fab- hats. rics. Also name for large variety of Gros de Suisse IFrench silk fabric, hav- cross ribbed fabrics. ing cross ribs on the face. It is made with two sets of and heavier Gros d'Afrique Plain woven, all-silk warps, cotton in dress goods. The warp consists of filling plain weave. single threads of ecru silk and double Gros de Tours 1. Jacquard figured cotton or triple strands of boiled silk. It is ibedspreads in Argentine; '2, .plain double faced with a velvety, cross woven cross ribbed French fabric, ribbed effect. made of silk and other materials, the ribs being formed by two picks, the Gros d'Afrique Corde Double faced plain warp having two or three plies. woven dress goods, made of two silk warps, one being a single thread of Grosse Chainette Solid colored plain ecru silk. The other double or triple French serge, made with eight leaves six strand of boiled silk. The filling is and picks in a repeat. of heavy, loosely twisted cotton yarn. Grosse Cote Solid colored plain French The effect is heavy, velvety crossribs. serge, having eight leaves and eight in a Gros d'Alger (French silk fabric, made picks repeat. with two sets of warps; it has cross Grosse Draperie French term for all ribs. woolen fabrics which are felted or shrunk, irrespective of the fineness, Gros de Berlin Cross ribbed French silk weave or other characteristics. made with two sets of fabric, warps; Grosse Grenadine French also made of alpaca. serge, made with 12 leaves and four picks. Gros de Chine Cross ribbed French silk Ground 'See Fond. fabric, made with two sets of warp Gru Gru fine and soft and heavy filling. Very fiber, yield- ed by the leaves of the palm of same Gros d'Ete iSilk fabric, with with two sets name in the West Indies. of warps. It has cross ribs. Guana 1, silky, yellowish seed hair of the Gros Forts 'Strong, stout French linen; Bombax tree in Cuba; 2, fabric, made used in upholstery. of the bark of the lace tree In Gros Grain Ribbon or dress goods, wov- Jamaica. en plain with very fine silk warp and Guaxima Very strong fiber, yielded by a heavier cotton filling, producing the Urena lobata in Brazil; oised for cross ribs, which are heavier than ibags, ropes. those of the poplin tout lighter than Guaxinduba tCloth-likc? bast of a Bra- faille. zilian tree; used for garments by the Gros Grain Satin Bich, crose rit>bed native tribes. French dress goods, made of heavy, Catalana Name for Spanish pink filling and two sets of fine silk stripes in Cuba. warp, one set being white, the other Guayanilla Variety of white, lustrous and pink, forming roses in white fields; strong raw cotton from the West obsolete. Indies. CUE 75 HAI

Guembipi Fiber yielded by the stem of a Gun Club Checks Woolen or worsted species of Philodendron in Brazil; fabric for men's or women's wear, used for ropes; 2. a dark colored, very the pattern consisting of three colors, strong and durable bark fiber, yielded which form small checks within larger by a creeper of the Aroideae family checks. The checks are much smaller in Paraguay; it will not rot; used for in men's wear than in women's wear ropes. goods. Guendje 'See Genghis rugs. Gunn 1, a commercial variety of short Guerley An East Indian calico. staple upland cotton from the Miss- a Gueuse 1, cheap and coarse French bob- issippi; 2, Highland tartan, the re- bin lace, similar to the torchon (see); peat made as follows: wide, dark green in the called also beggar's lace (see); 2, a bar, split middle by a single lightweight, all-wool inferior cam- narrow red stripe; black stripe, half let; made in France and Holland; ob- the width of the green; very fine solete. green line; navy blue bar, same width as in the Guibert Stout bleached French linen green bar, split middle by a fine another shirting. very green line; very fine green line; black stripe, measur- In Guibray France, a thick cotton yarn; ing half the width of the green bar. used for wicks. Gunny Very coarse and open, plain Guimhas Cotton or woolen ribbons in woven bagging, made of jute, also L

Hairbine An 18th century English Hamas Stout, bleached East Indian cot- woolen fabric. ton cloth; obsolete. Haircloth 'Made of cotton, worsted or Hambourgeoise French silk dress goods linen warp and a weft consisting of a of the 18th century. It had a taf- single hair of the horse's mane or tail feta foundation with napped patterns; which does not form a continuous 2, a French double-faced silk fabric yarn and is not twisted. The fabric of the 19th century, made with stripes. is made as wide as the length of the Hamburg Point Drawn work ornamented horse hair. It is woven in plain or with colored silk thread. satin weave and is used for interlin- Hamburg Wool Glossy embroidery wool ing, stiffener and cover for uphol- yarn in England. stered seats. 2, an imitation of the real horsehair cloth is made by using Hamburgo Americano Name for un- hard-spun cotton yarn entirely, which bleached cotton sheeting in the Canary is heavily sized to give stiffness. This Islands. fabric is used as dress interlining. Hamidieh Fabric made of silk and cot- Haircord (English drese muslin made with ton in Syria. thick warp cords; also a bleached Hamilton Lace Coarse Scotch bobbin English cotton fabric with colored lace showing lozenge patterns; now warp cords. obsolete. Hair Line Woolen or worsted dress goods Cloth Strong, soft cloth, usual- or men's wear, made with very fine ly woven of all cotton with bright continuous stripes, produced by single colored warp in plain or fancy weave. warp yarns crossed by a filling of the Used for hammocks, drapery, etc. same color. The fabric is given a Hamouli 'Raw cotton formerly grown in clear finish; 2, fishing line made of Egypt; now little cultivated. horsehair. Hanabishi A Japanese silk fabric with Hair Net Made of silk or human hair gold brocaded diaper pattern. with mesh; used to the large prevent Hancaatjes White East Indian muslin, hair getting disarranged. obsolete. Haitien Plain woven silk dress fabric, Handewarpes Colored English woolen made with fine and heavier warp fabric of the 16th century. filiing, alternately in white and colored Handle The various as p.icks. characteristics, elasticity, fineness, softness, etc., of the Hakir cloth in East 'Strong warp striped fibers and fabrics felt to the touch. India, made with silk warp and cot- Hank Unit of silk hank ton filling. measuring yarn; being 1,000 yards; worsted hank 560 >Black and white ground prints, Hakistery yards long; coition hank 840 yards; used in Pereia for clothing. woolen skein 1,520 yards; linen and Hala Native name for the Pandanus in jute 3,600 yards. Pacific Islands. -the Hanolchade 'Navajo blanket made with Half Blood American designation of wool black and white stripes with small compared in fineness to the full blood- diamonds of blue and red in the black ed merino as standard. stripes. Worn usually by the tribal Half Damask iMade in England of silk chiefs. and cotton or silk and wool. Hanos Ten-leaf, figured satin from East Half Silks Silk fabrics made partly (warp India; obsolete. or filling) of cotton. Hanovilles French woolen serge; obso- Haifa Native Algerian name for esparto. lete. Halfbacks Woolens partly made like Haps The coarsest and heaviest grades backed goods. of the Shetland shawls crocheted by Mali Turkish name for large size Orien- the natives. tal floor carpets. Hapui Hi 'Same as Pulu (see). Hal ina Coarse, checked woolen cloth with Harakake Moori Name for the New Zea- long hair on the right side, made in land flax. Austria. Harami Large size East Indian rugs Hallencourt Twilled French table linen. made for the . Halles Crues Strong unbleached linen Harbins IMade of cotton and silk warp made in France. and wool filling; obsolete. Hailing Antiquated English name for Hard Crepe Plain woven, light silk crepe, hanging drapery. dyed black and gummed; used for mourning. Halluin Coarse serge used by the French army. Hard Finish The face of cotton and es- Persian rugs made of cotton pecially woolen and worsted fabrics, without web and close wool pile, more or less finished any nap. mixed with camels' hair and tied in Hard Silk 'Not degummed. Ghiordes knot. The design consists Hard or Twist Yarn spun with corner Spun of a center medallion and more revolutions per inch than usual. on a field of yellow or brown spaces coarse together wiih floral patterns Harden Obsolete and very English ground, of tow. in blue and red. cloth made Hamamlik Turkish name for Oriental Hards The coarse fibers separated from bath rugs, usually square. flax in scutching. HAR 77 HEM

Hardwickia A tough, pliable bast fiber of Heading 1, that edge of the lace floun- India used for cordage. cing which is sewn to the garment; 2, Hare or Harl The fibers in flax and hemp trade name for that end of the pie>ce stalks of bolt of cloth which is on the out- side; 3, in short length fabrics both Harlekin Kn^lish woolen dress goods ends of the decorated with chine patterns; obsolete. material, usually with stripes. Harlem Checks Linen from Holland with Health See sante. blue or red window plaid. Crepe crepe de Heart The core strand of a around Harlequin 1, large plaid checks in more rope which other strands are twisted. than two colors; 2, 18th century checked woolen fabric in England. Heart Yarn The center of a core yarn. Harn In England a coarse, low grade flax Heather Mixture Tweeds and homespuns yarn. having flakes in heather and sand H arras Two-ply combed wool yarn in colors on the face. Southern Germany and Austria. Hechima Japanese cotton drapery cloth, Harrateen All-worsted English fabric of printed with flowers, etc. the 18th century. Heer Linen and jute yarn measure, equal to 600 yards. tA homespun, all-wool tweed, of soft feel and peaty odor, Hehbehlik Turkish name for Oriental made originally on the island of Lewis saddle bags of various but usually and other islands off Scotland, using bright colored design; in America the best native blackface or cheviot 'Used as pillow covers. wool in natural colors or dyed with Heii iS'ame as Pulu vegetable dyes. Used for overcoats. (see). Harvard A somewhat hard washable Helenienne iStout, solid colored silk dress with small twilled cotton shirting, woven mostly in 2 goods pat- and 2 twill with colored warp and terns; obsolete. -white weft, forming stripes or zig Hemp Strong, lustrous and very durable zag lines which cover a large part but harsh, bast fiber of the cannabis of the fabric. sativa and many other similar plants, Haslock Scotch term for the finest part growing all over the world. The best of the fleece, taken from the throat. grades are fine and white; used chief- ly for cordage, twine and sailcloth. 'Linen or Hasp jute yarn measure, equal iThe following commercial varieties to 3,600 yards, (see hank). are cultivated: The common hemp, the Hatters' Plush Made with fine silk pile; Bologne hemp (known also the Pie- used for men's and women's hats. montese or great hemp), the Chinese Haute Lisse 'French for high warp hemp (called Japanese hemp in Cali- the the tapestry, viz. made with the warp fornia), Smyrna hemp, small and the .placed in vertical position. hemp Kentucky hemp. Haute Nouveautee ^French for The Italian hemp is the best, with novelty the fabrics. following principal grades: Gorg- iola (G), Gorgiola Bolognese (GB), HawkingA process in dyeing. Several primo cordaggio extra (PICE), primo pieces of the fabric are sewed to- cordaggio (PC), primo basso (PB), gether, end to end and passed between secondo basso (SB), Napoli extrissimo two rubber rolls, constantly kept under (N), secondo cordaggio (SC), terzio the surface of the dye in the vat. basso (TB), quarto basso (QB), and HawkinsEarly maturing, short stapled strappature. cot- commercial variety of American In Russia the mark for the longest fiber 18-22 milli- ton, the measuring and best hemp is RH, for shorter the of lint is 32-34 per meters; yield SF1SPOH, for the shortest (.pass cent. hemp) SFSPPH. A good grade of Hawser In nautics, a kind of small cable (Polish hemp is marked G.FSPRH. The twisted from three small ropes, each current qualities in Petrograd are: of 20 strands. Clean, outshot and half clean. The hemp marketed through Koe- Hay A Highland tartan, composed of nigsberg (Germany) is classed as stripes over a red ground, nar- green clean, cut and row white and yellow lines splitting schicking. the field. The numbering for the fine hemp yarns is the same as for linen China A late maturing commercial yarn Hays (see); for rope yarn the number variety of cotton from Mississippi, the gives the number of threads for fine and lustrous staple measuring required one of the three strands found in a over 30 the is about millimeters; yield rope of three-inch circumference. No. 28-30 cent. per 20 rope yarn weighs 18 oz. per 100 Hayti Variety of West Indian raw cot- yards, No. 30 weighs 1>2 ozs., No. 40 ton. weighs 9 ozs.

Head '1, merino clothing wool, taken from Hemstitch lA number of threads, parallel the head of the fleece; 2, measure with the edge are pulled out and the for yarn in Scotland, according to the threads running the other direction Sterling system; equal to 1,920 yards. are caught into groups. HEN HOM

Henequen A species of the sisal, a very Hinrop East Indian silk fabric, made elastic, strong, white leaf fiber, yield- with flower patterns; used for gar- ed by the agave plant in Yucatan, ments by the rich natives. Mexico; used for cordage. Grey Coarse cloth made in Henrietta Fine twilled soft and lustrous Scotland of natural, usually black, fabric made with silk war,p and fine wool. is thrown on worsted filling which Hocirunck A plain woven cotton fabric is the face with a 2-1 twill weave. It in East Africa, dyed in cinnamon dresses. similar to caehmere; used for 'brawn; used for outer garments by Hepepetwan Rich, double-faced Chinese the native men. Similar to Khudur- silk satin. angi. Herat Very durable all-wool rugs made Hog Wool yielded by one-year old sheep, in Persia and Afghanistan, the me- which has not been shorn previously. dium long pile is tied in Ghiordes Holanda Wide linen goods, made in is of floral and flsh knot. The design Spain. or of a center medallion. The patterns Holbein Outline embroidery colors are blue, red and yellow. Embroidery for table towels, etc.; both with cloths, Hercules Braid 'I. a flat braid, made sides made alike. seven threads, each thread passing Holi In countries inhabited by Arabians, alternately under and over three a woolen fabric, similar to Baracan; threads; 2, very wide flat braid, made used for men's clothing. cxf mohair, wool or silk; used for trimming on dresses and uniforms. Holland 1, general term for a great vari- ety of light weight colored cotton Hereke Coarse wool from Anatolia. goods in Greece; 2, plain woven un- Herez Rugs 'Fine Persian rugs made bleached linen, originally from Hol- with cotton web and close wool pile land, made glazed or unglazed; used tied in Ghiordes knot. The design is as furniture cover, window curtains, usually a center medallion with etc. straight outlines and floral patterns Holland Flax Has long fine lustrous in blue and various reds. The border fibers. is in light color. Hollands In Cuba a finely striped linen; Heris (Persian camel's hair rug, made used for children's dresses and for with old patterns in dark brown. summer trousers. Herlong A late maturing commercial Hollandas Coarse, starched cotton fab- variety of prolific cotton from Ala- rics in the Philippines, made with meas- bama, Georgia, etc., the staple, blac'k, 'blue or red warp stripes on uring 22-i25 millimeters, forms medium white ground and white filling. size, round bolls; the lint yield is Point Old needle-point church 30-32 per cent. Hollie lace with Scriptural patterns. See Hernarvi French dress goods, similar to Holy Lace. Grenadine (only lighter), made of silk An old and now somewhat and wool. Hollingshead obsolete commercial variety of up- Stitch. Herringbone Stitch See Plaited land cotton. Twill Formed by reversing Herringbone Hollow Cut 'Cotton corduroy woven first the direction of the twill, to form a with even pile, the runs between the sawtoothed line; same as broken ribs are hollowed out with a shearing twill. machine. It is also made by holding Hessian Name in England and Eu- the knife at various angles when cut- rope for burlap (see). Also a coarse ting the corduroy. Also known as hemp fabric in England. velvet cord. Hiapu Light Chinese cloth, made of Holosericum Medieval, all-silk fabric. ramie. Holy Lace Obsolete lace made as darned Hickory A very durable stout but pli- netting cut work or drawn work with able cotton trousering and shirting, biblical subjects for designs. See in the made with colored stripes warp . and white filling, woven in warp twill weave. Home A Highland tartan, composed o.f dark blue and black stripes, split by Hightower A commercial variety of cot- red and green lines. ton from Alabama having a medium loose but very strong and long staple. Homespun il, durable woolen, woven on handlooms Hilliard 'A commercial variety of upland of natural colored, homespun yarn about 23- cotton, the staple measuring in many parts of England; used for the is 34-36 24 millimeters; yield per overcoats, etc.; 2, machine made imi- cent. tations thereof, made with light col- Himalaja In Austria a very fine twilled ored warp and dark filling usually In woolen dress goods, similar in finish two-and-two twill. to the ; made very spongy. Homiak Good grade of home reeled silk other Hindi Variety short staple, reddish brown in Central Asia; exported to cotton, grown in Mesopotamia. countries. Hingunghat .Best variety of East Indian Homienchow iFancy silk fabric in plain cottons, having a strong staple of light weave, made of spun silk in China, golden color. is about 23 inches wide. HON 79 HWA

Honal Kladi Navajo blankets (see) with House Flannel Lightweight flannel, made the stripes woven crosswise; worn by with cotton warp and woolen filling; the chiefs of the tribes. used for household purposes.

Honeycomb 1, hexagonal mesh found in Housewife's Cloth Obsolete English term laces; 2, patterns similar to cells on for a medium fine household linen fab- cotton or other fabrics, made with ric of plain weave. fine warp and much coarser filling, producing reversible effect; used on Howell 1, an early ripening commercial towels, also on some dress goods. variety of upland cotton from Louisi- ana, the staple measuring to 25 Canvas 'Bleached cotton up Honeycomb millimeters; the yield of lint is 34-36 canvas, made in square honeycomb per cent; 2, general trade term for effect; used for embroidery. T cloths in Greece. Honeycomb Quilt Bleached, single fab- Hsiu 'Chinese the rics, woven of heavy cotton yarn in embroidery; designs are filled any of the honeycomb weaves. out with colored silk or gold and silver threads. Honeycomb Reseau 'In laces, a ground composed of diamond shaped squares. Huamaga iSee Damajagua. Honeycomb Stitch Used in . Huampo Bark fiber, yielded by the Cheirostemon in Hongchow Piece dyed silk foulard, made platanoides, Peru; used for in China; is about 29 inches wide and garments by the natives. used for wrapping. Huasi ma Coarse, reddish brown bast Hongklpoun (Chinese handkerchiefs. ifiber, yielded by a species of the Guazuma tree in Hong Kong A plain woven fabric made Mexico and Trini- used for with silk warp and a little heavier dad; cordage. ramie filling, forming light rib ef- Huccatoon Cotton fabrics, made in Man- fect; used for men's and women's chester for the African markets. clothes and it comes in solid colors and printed. Huckaback A thick loose and soft cot- ton or linen Hongroise Plain French serge dress toweling woven in birds- or with goods of eight leaves and four picks eye honeycomb patterns, very slack twist and in a repeat. low count weft form- ing long floats and a strong selvage. lace consists of English It comes in white or with colored machine made ground with bobbin ends. made flower and leaf sprigs. In the Honiton guipure the bobbin-made Hugicion Fiber yielded by a species of sprigs are joined by purlings or sim- the fig tree in Peru. ple stitches. Huguenot Lace Obsolete French appliqua Hop Pocketing Jute bagging; used for lace, made by mounting on net ground hop bags; is similar to tarpaulin. flowers cut out of light material and Hopsacking 1, coarse jute or flax bag- fastening by buttonhole stitches. ging; 2, coarse or fine, open face Huitoc (Fibrous bast of a species of woolen dress goods and suiting. Genipa in Peru; used for rough Hopsack Weave 'Same as mat or basket clothing by the natives. weave, each unit formed by two or more warp ends and as many fill- Humphrey A commercial variety of long ing threads. staple cotton from America, same as Eureka. Horrocks English calico, named after its maker. Humum Plain East Indian cotton cloth Horse Cloth Double-faced twilled jute, of coarse quality. the. back often made of wool. Usu- Hungry .1. wool the fineness of which is ally single colored or used striped; caused lack of flaw in as horse blanket. by feed; 2, cloth caused by the openness of the HorsehairLong lustrous hair; used in texture resulting from the varying furniture seats, underlinings, etc. It thickness of the filling. is spun into yarn by gluing the hair to a cotton binding thread and then Hunnicutt Early maturing commercial twisted. The glue is insoluble. Ac- variety of prolific cotton from Ameri- cording to another system two fine ca, the staple measuring 22-25 milli- cotton threads are twisted around the meters; the yield is 30-32 per cent. hair. Hunting Cloth A plain or striped cotton Horsetail Silk thread used for couching tweed made in India. down metal threads. Hurden (Coarse and stout, plain woven Hose 1, knitted stockings for women and hemp fabric, of medieval England. children; 2, tube, plaited or woven without any seam, usually of extra Husking Cloth (Stout and heavy cotton used for strong cotton or linen yarn, often wa- ticking; working gloves. terproofed. Hwachow Dressed silk gros de Naples, in 24 Hosiery 1, formerly meant breeches; 2, made China; it is about inches same as stockings; 3, in England gen- wide. The warp is organzine and the eral term for knit goods. filling a six-ply grege tram. Hounscot Say A 17th century English Hwa Mien Chow Cotton poplin, made In worsted. China, about 20 inches wide. HWA 80 IMP

Hwasienchow Very soft silk gros de Illusion 'F'ine French silk tulle; used for Naples, made in China; it is about 25 trimming; also a net with star mesh; inches wide and does not crease. Oc- used for veils and dresses. similar to casionally made crepe. Imagdong A plant in the Philippines. The Hwayong A Chinese silk velvet, made In fibers of which are used for cords and green or poppy colors. ropes. Hwayutwan Wool poplin, made in China, Imbabura Cotton grown in Peru; the is about &2 inches wide. staple is fine, white and clean. Hydrochloric Acid Used for carbonizing Imbe (Fiber yielded by the stem of a in aniline black dyeing of cotton and species of Philodendron in Brazil; used cotton mixtures, in bleaching, etc. for ropes. Hydrogen Peroxide Used as bleaching Imirat An Bast Indian cotton fabric of agent for all kinds of silk and for plain weave. wool, although the latter will lose Imitation Fur A pile fabric, either woven some of its elasticity. or knitted and having curled or Hydrosulphite Used as reducing agent straight pile, made to imitate various against indigo. furs. Imitation Horsehair Narrow plain woven fabric; made of heavily sized vege- table fibers to imitate horse hair cloth; used for interlining. Imitation Lace iMachine-inade imitation of real or hand-made laces. Imitation Wool iMade by treating Sene- (byria Leaf fiber yielded by the Brome- gal hemip in cold solution of caustic liaceae in South America. It is strong, soda, peroxide of sodium and soluble silky and does not rot. Used for cord oil or in bath of peroxide of sodium and twine. and ammonia in equal parts. The is then treated with so- Ice Colors Same as azo colors. hemp an acid lution. Ice Silk

Imprime French term (or printed. Indigo 1, a fast blue dye, extracted from the stems and leaves of various Improved Staple 'Commercial va- gen- Long era of the and the woad riety of cotton from America; see indigofera plants. The dyestuff in its natural Jones Long Staple. state is a yellow liquid, the oxidizing Improved Prolific A commercial variety action of the air developing the blue of upland cotton from North Carolina, indigo which is insoluble and is mar- the staple measuring up to 25 milli- keted in the shape of cakes. Before meters; the yield is about 30 per cent using it for dyeing this blue indigo is lint. dissolved in some alkaline bath and is again converted into soluble Inaja Strong leaf fiber yielded by the indigo white which will oxidize into Inaja palm in Brazil; used for cord- easily fast blue under the influence of the age, etc. air. Artificial indigo is a synthetic Inauguration Cloth Various dress faced dyestuff, obtained from coal tar prod- twilled woolens, usually of a mixture ucts, and is of the same chemical featured at the character, occasion of composition as natural indigo; 2, a presidential inaugurations in the standard, plain woven cotton fabric, United States. having dots or other figures printed on a solid, 'blue Incombustible

I nea Cotton dress in Incompable Obsolete 'French silk serge. warp alpaca goods France ; obsolete. India Chintz iA stout chintz with thick, Infantado Variety of Spanish merino large patterns; used for upholstery. wool. India Goods Made in East India. Ingipipa Native name in French Guiana India Muslin Very fine Bast Indian cotton for the fibrous bast of the Couratari muslin. tree; used for blankets. India Tape Very strong, soft or stiffened Ingrain 1, fabrics dyed in the fiber or the English narrow cotton tape, the width yarn; 2, in the United States name graded from 00 to 10. for Kidderminster carpets. Indian Ciciclia 'Silk brocade with gold and Ingrain Colors Same as azo colors. silver flowers over a ribbed ground. In the Grease Signifies wool in its nat- Indian Dimity Fine, plain woven, light ural state, as it comes from the cotton dress goods, having cross ribs sheep's back with all the grease and formed by the filling. It is .printed in other impurities attached to it. floral warp stripes, and also between In the Gum The natural silk fiber before the ribs. the gum covering is removed by boil- Indian Hemp (Fine, long and strong fiber ing out. of light cinnamon color, yielded by the Injira^Variety of raw cotton from Col- Apocynum cannaibinum; used by the ombia. North American Indians for baskets, / belts, twine, etc. Inking The process of dyeing spots, which otherwise -would show Indian Lace and made in up gray Tapes edgings in the finished fabric. East India from silk and silver or gold wire core (or yarn) ; used for trim- InkleA linen braid or tape, often yellow, ming garments and turfoans. but also striped blue and red; used in England as dress until Indian Linon Fine, closely woven cotton trimming the end of the 17th century. lawn, very slightly sized and usually bleached. Inlet In Germany and Austria a coarse and very stout cotton fabric, bleached Indian Mull A 'fine, undressed, wov- plain or dyed: used as bedding instead of en mull, dyed in the piece, made orig- linen; see also Bedstout. inally in India; used for dresses. Insertion See Entredeux. Indian Okra Very white, smooth, silky bast fiber of fair strength, yielded by Ir Very fine, flexible and ornamental the Hibiscus eeculentus of India; used clothing mats in the Marshall Islands; for cordage and bagging. made of pandanus leaves By the na- tives. Indian Shawl iMade in France, with fancy

combed wool warp and hard twist I rabirussu 'Native (Brazilian name for the wool filling in Oriental patterns. fibrous bark of the Couratari tree; used for etc. Indian Shirting 'Plain woven, pure cotton clothing, blankets, fabric, heavily sized, made in Eng- Iraki Variety of short staple cotton land for the Indian markets. raised along the Tigris and Euphrates. Indian Work Drawn work made on mus- Irish Cloth Medieval English woolen fab- lin. ric, made in white and red; used for

Indienne 1, obsolete, general term for lining. cottons from East printed India; 2, Irish Crochet Very fine crochet, made fine stout calico with small patterns, into various laces. made in France; 3, light cotton dress fabric with alternate colored woven Irish Duck Very closely woven, strong warp stripes and printed patterns be- linen duck; used for workingmen's tween. clothes. IRI JAM

Irish Eye Diaper Trade term in Ireland Italian Cloth >A stout but light and glossy for a three-leaf linen diaper, two- fabric woven in a five-leaf weft satin thirds of the warp and one- third of weave of cotton or wool yarns and the weft threads forming one side of dyed in the piece; it is usually dyed the cloth and two-thirds of the weft black and used for lining, petticoats, and one-third of the wanp the other etc. side. Italian Ferret Silk tape or binding for Irish Flax The finest grade of flax, grown flannels and dressing gowns. in Ireland. Italian Stitch .Same as Holbein stitch. Irish Frieze Impervious frieze made in Iwaiwa Fiber yielded by the stalks of a Ireland of fine, long, native wool, dyed fern in 'Hawaii; used for 'baskets, before spun. mats, etc., by the natives. Irish Lawn Very fine, plain woven, Ixtle (Mexican name for various vegetable bleached lawn, made of pure, hard- 'fibers, especially .for the lechuguilla spun ply linen yarn. (see) and the agave; used for cord- age. Also called henequen. Irish Linen 'Bleached, fine, plain woven 'Native name for the African bass. linen fabrics, made in Ireland; used lyo for dresses, shirts, handkerchiefs, etc. Izarin 'East Indian cotton cloth; obso- lete. Irish Point 1, lace with needle-point or boibbin made sprigs sewn to machine made net, this sometimes being cut away under the patterns; 2, curtain lace, with patterns mounted on a ma- chine made net. J Irish Stitch In embroidery used for grounding; it is a long stitch, car- ried over five or more threads and it requires fine foundation canvas. Jacitara .Very strong, elastic bast fiber, yielded the Jacitara 'White on white by climbing plant Irish Work embroidery in Brazil. ground, mostly on handkerchiefs. Jacobite Tartan 'Was worn by the Ja- Irlanda A cotton or linen shirting In cobites in Scotland at the beginning of 'Cuba with colored stripes on white the 18th century. The design is com- foundation or vice versa. posed as follows: Bright yellow stripe; 'group of Iron 'Buff lA fast, rust colored dye, pro- consisting white, blue, red, white the en- duced by soluble salts of iron which white, red, 'blue, stripes, tire of the was fixed some alkali; little in use group being same width by as the now, mostly for cotton and linen fab- yellow stripe and the three white lines rics. being very narrow*; yel- low stripe as above; group, as above*; Iron Yarn (White or tolack cotton yarn solid green stripe, of the same width made very smooth by starching and as yellow; group, as above*; solid glazing^ used for linings and hat green stripe, of the same width as shapes. yellow; group, as above*. Isabel (Fine twilled English worsted dress Jaconet 'Fine, sheer cotton dress fabric, goods; obsolete. thinner than cambric, comes in white. or stripes or prints. Originally from Isabelle French dress goods made with East India. single warp in eight leaf and six fill- Jacquard 1, designs which are too large ing repeats. for the harness loom and are woven Isbahani .Medieval sil'k fabric of Arabic on the Jaoquard loom; 2, hosiery origin. knitted in two or more colors with a separate thread for each color. Isitebe 'Mats made of the Kyllinga .plant iStout drill lin- in Natal. Jacquard Drill made with en face and cotton back. Isle of Man Lace Coarse and narrow bob- Fabrics Knitted or woven fabrics, bin-made lace used for edgings, simi- Jaeger made of 'fine, pure, natural wool and lar to the Valenciennes; now obsolete. camel hair. They are very porous Isle of Wight Lace Obsolete English bob- and are considered hygienic. bin lace, resembling the Wiltshire. The Jago A linen cloth. design is outlined with thick thread Jaldai Indian cotton muslin, figured with and then filled in with the needle. net-like designs. The ground is machine-made. Jamaica Variety of West Indian raw cot- Ismaili Pale and dark striped cotton fab- ton. ric with a border of red, white and Jamavas 'Light East Indian brocaded silk stripes and a selvage of red, yellow taffeta; obsolete. in East Africa. Jamawar East Indian shawl, made of 'Persian woolen made with Ispahan rug coarse wool with wide stripes. hand tied knots. Jamadane Very fine brocaded or em- Ispahan Yarn 'Two or more ply, hard broidered-like muslin made in India mohair. twist, gassed yarn made of by laying short lengths of gold or Istaberk An East Indian silk satin, wov- colored threads parallel with the warp en of opalescent wild silk. in the hand looms. JAM 83 JON

Jamkhana East Indian cotton carpet with Jennets-Stout, twilled English cottons, stripe .patterns. come in white, figured or printed. Janapan (See Sunn hemp. Jequitiba Native Brazilian term for the Janes See Jean. 'fibrous bast of the Couratari tree; used for Jangipurl Inferior quality of Indian jute, blankets, clothing, ropes, etc. having a reddish brown, weak fiber. Jerga Coarse woolen fabric with plaid Jannequin Coarse cotton cloth, made In pattern; used by the natives of Mex- Asia Minor. ico. Janus Cloth Double faced worsted fab- 1, a fine, choice wool, combed from ric, each side made in a different color. the rest of the wool; 2, a very fine woolen Janus Cord Black dyed, dress goods with yarn. warp ribs, made alike on both sides; Jersey Cloth A thick, knitted fabric, made of cotton warp and worsted fill- made of wool; also of silk. ing. Jersey Flannel (Crocheted and napped Japanese Rugs Pile or tapestry rugs, woolen faibric. made of cotton or jute, in Oriental Jerusalem Cotton iSee scroll designs. Bazac. Japergonsi 'Fine East Indian muslin with Jesuit Cloth 'Coarse, stout, black, plain gold selvage. woven woolen cloth made of hard twist used as re- Printed cotton crepe in Can- yarn; suiting by Japonette orders. ada. ligious Japrak Green, red, orange and blue Jesuit Lace Irish crochet guipure. Smyrna rugs. Jetee Lustrous, very strong elastic and Jaquenolle East Indian plain or striped durable bast fiber, yielded by the muslin. Rajinahal hemp in India; used for Jardiniere Designs composed of flowers, bowstrings, fishing nets, etc. fruits and leaves. Jethro A now obsolete commercial va- Jaspee 1, French term for yarn twisted riety of American cotton. of several colored nub or plain yarns; Jeypore Indian cotton rugs having Per- cloth made of same yarn. .2, sian designs with tree and animal Jasper Pepper and salt effect by having forms in red, ivory and blue. the black and the filling white warp (Indian cotton muslin with silk or vice versa. Jhapan flower patterns. Java A cotton fabric with red ground and red. yellow and white stripes in East Jhibandlik A coarse, East Indian cotton Africa; used for dresses by the native net, woven in leno. women. Jhilmeel Very light East Indian silk fab- Java Canvas (Made of cotton, linen or ric, made with an open weave. worsted ply yarns with open face; A stou-t. bleached and used for embroidery; the yarns are Jhuganat glazed cotton fabric of inferior in East two or three together each grade grouped India. way. In same as Javelle Water Used for bleaching vege- Jimped England pinked. table fibers. Jipins Rug 'Commercial term for dra- and of twilled trous- peries hangings, made wool Jean 1, very stout, durable, and used on doors and windows. ering, made of hard spun cotton warp and a low grade wool or shoddy fill- Jircaza Originally fine East Indian cot- ing. It is dyed very dark gray in the ton lawn with woven colored flowers. yarn; used for working trousers; 2, Joannovitch fine and cot- name in America for the one-and-two Very strong ton, grown in Egypt, the staple meas- twill; 3, in England a three shaft from to inches in twilled woolen fabric with a weft face. uring 1% 1% length. Johnston Jean-'back Weft pile cotton velvet made Highland tartan, made as fol- with twilled ground. lows: Wide dark green bar, split in the center 'by three narrow stripes made in Jean Stripes A gingham Eng- (black at the outside, yellow between) land. these stripes divided by green stripes Jeannet iStout, coarse warp twilled faibric, of the same width; navy blue bar of made of cotton warp and wool filling; the same width as green, split in the used for working clothes. center by three narrow black stripes, spaced their own width from each Jeannette 1, in England a three shaft other. twilled wool faibric, with a warp face; 2, coarse jean, lighter in texture; 3, Jolocin Coarse bast fiber, obtained from name for the one-and-two twill. See a species of the Heliocarpus tree in also Jean. Central America; used for cordage. See Jenappe Genappe. J one Obsolete French dress goods, made Jenfez A cross ribbed Turkish silk fab- of linen with alternate light and dark ric. cross ribs. Jenkins A commercial variety of early Jones Improved A late maturing com- maturing American cotton, the staple mercial variety of upland cotton, the measuring '22-25 millimeters; the yield staple measuring 20-24 millimeters; of lint is 34-36 per cent. the yield of lint is 30-S2 per cent. JON KAK

Jones Long Staple A late maturing com- which is the basis for all quotations; mercial variety of upland cotton, the this contains seragjung jute. Another staple measuring 30-34 millimeters; important quality in bale is marked form large bolls; the yield is 29-30 D, containing Dacca jute. The bales per cent. marked CD'M contain common jute Jones Number 1 A commercial variety of for sacking. Jute is sorted into three cotton from Alabama, the staple qualities, of which the first one con- measuring 18-22 millimeters; the yield tains from 15 to 20 per cent of the to- of lint is 33 per cent. tal, the second quality from 25 to 30 cent and the third from 50 to 60 Jonote Coarse bast fiber yielded by a per species of the Heliocarpus tree in Cen- per cent. tral America; used for cordage. Jute Butts Jute waste, consisting of the end of the used for Joree Silk worm in Assam, lives on fig fibers; paper stock. trees, yielding a strong and lustrous fiber. Joria IBest type of East Indian wool, has a springy staple. Josephine Tricot A very open crochet K work, consisting of closely crocheted rows connected by double yarns at in- tervals. Josette ^A stout twilled strong, cotton Kaba Karaman Rugs Coarse and heavy, used for wear. fabric; sporting small rugs made by the nomad Kar- Jour Zephyr Obsolete French term for amanian in Asia Minor. The warp the simplest gauze. and weft are of heavy and coarse woo!. Jours 1, open work in laces embroideries, the long and very loose pile is tied or in fabrics. Designs in open work in G-hiordes knot. The design is usual- on fabrics are made by pressing the ly that of a rug. fabric against a plate having points prayer arranged to form the design and then Kabistan Rugs 'Very fine rugs made in dress the fabric to hold the holes; 2, Caucasia with cotton web, occasion- See Modes. ally wool warp, and short, wool pile, Jour Deux Place, Jour Trois Place tied cloeely in G-hiordes knot. The French term for leno weaves, having designs are geometrical, stars and two and three rows of holes respec- diamonds and pears in rows often tively. occurring. The field is often divided into horizontal rows of or Jouy Canvas Printed cotton or silk fa/b- pears finely blended stripes. The border often ibric, showing small floral designs. contains conventionalized animal fig- Jowarihathi iSee Tellapatti. ures. The ends are finished with a Jowers Commercial variety of late ma- narrow selvage and a loose or knotted turing American cotton, the staple fringe. The sides are overcast, occa- measuring 22-25 millimeters; the yield sionally having only one warp thread is 34 per cent or more. left. Of one of the Jubbulpore Hemp India, Kabylo French shawl, made with carded best grades of hemp, having a very warp and filling. long, lustrous and very strong fiber. Kadu "Sleeping mat in Java, made of Jumbo Commercial of a variety prolific palm leaves. and early maturing American cotton, the staple measuring 18-22 milli- Kaffir Hemp Very strong, white .n meters; the yield is 32-<34 per cent. fiber, yielded by the South African, the Grewia occidentalis; used for rope Jumel 'Variety of Egyptian raw cotton. Same as Mako. and cloth toy the Kaffirs. Jupon Plain woven French dress goods Kaffir Sheet Very coarse, twilled cotton made with cotton warp and woolen fajbric, with fancy colored heading; used for the natives of filling. garments by iSouth Africa. Jusi A fine, sheer and plain woven fabric, made of hemp warp and pineapple Kaga Trade term for the medium grade Iflber filling, or pineapple warp and Japanese silk fabrics. silk or cotton filling. It comes in Kahnami The bast variety of raw cotton, colored stripes and checks and is made grown in Broach and Navsari, India. used by the natives of the Philippines; The staple is very soft and silky. for women's dresses. Kaiki See Khaiki. Jute Very long, luetrous and strong bast yielded by the Corchorus in India. It Kairens Turkish wool rug of good qual- is silver gray or yellowish brown; used ity; used as floor and furniture cover. for bagging, coarse ropes, cheaper Kaimakani Fine sheer cotton cloth; used fiber is not dur- carpets, etc. The j. in Turkey to bind the turbans with. alble and rots quickly in water. The chief grades of jute in the na- Kairuan Rug from Tunis, made by the tive markets are: Uttariya, deswal, natives of wool with hand tied knots. deora, desi, naraingunja, Chatial, kar- formerly wov- imganji, bakrabadi, mirganji. jangi- KakahuFine, glossy cloth, en of the New Zealand hemp by the puri. In European markets the stan- dard quality is the bale marked M, Maoris. KAK 85 KAR

Kakarally Very fine and thin layers of Karriki A plain or twilled dark blue or fibrous bast, obtained from the Mon- black cotton shirting imported to East key-pot tree in South America; used Africa; used for garments by the na- for wrapping, cordage, baskets, etc. tive women. Kakeda Fine Japanese raw silk. Kaniki Buibui^A very light, sheer kaniki; used as veil. Kalameit Jute fiber prepared according twilled to a secret process, which increases Kaniki Marduf A kaniki. the affinity of the fiber for dyestuffs. Kaniki Mkelle 'Native East African name for piece . Kalamal iStriped cotton faibric with a dyed white ground; used in Turkestan for Kaniki Ufito 'Native East African name dresses. for piece dyed cotton fabrics; made with warp cords. Kalemkai Coarse Persian calico. Kanvi Variety of raw cotton from Kathi- Kalga East Indian applique work; used awar and Gujarat, India. The staple for curtains covers. and is of low grade but prolific. Kalgan Wool Variety of Chinese carpet Kanoko Very light, crepe-like Japanese wool. silk, dyed usually red or violet and Kali Persian felted rug, the napped face used by women as hair ornament, etc. is embroidered with flower designs in Kapa A very fine, easily bleached sheet, silver and silk. obtained from the bast of a species of the also a Kaliava 'Coarse home reeled silk in Cen- mulberry tree, species of the nettle in the Sandwich tral Asia; used by the natives. Islands, through beating; used for clothing by Kalin An East Indian pile carpet, with natives. a fill- strong cotton thread warp and Kapar General term for a variety of East ing and wool pile; the carpet is made Indian shawls. by alternating one row of knots with Kapok (Lustrous* elastic, 'but brittle and one filling. rather S'hort seed hair, yielded by the Kalmuc Carpet Made with woolen warp Eriodendron anfractuosum in Java, which runs regularly over and under India, and other places; used princi- two fillings. pally for stuffing but it is also spun after mixed with other longer fibers. Kalmuck 1, inferior Persian calico; 2, coarse woolen fabric, woven in a loose Karabagh Rugs All-wool rugs made of twill with a shaggy face; 3, in Austria natural colored wool and dyed warp. and Germany a stout cotton fabric The loose and coarse pile is of me- woven with two sets of filling, of dif- dium length and is tied in Ghiordes ferent colors and napped on both knot. The ends are usually turned sides; 4. a variety of woolen Londres back or have a fringe. The design made in Prance. is varied and heterogeneous and the colors crude. Kalotaszegi Varrottas (Hungarian needle- work, combining drawn work and em- KarachiEast Indian cotton, having a broidery on stout cotton or linen medium long and fairly strong staple ground; the embroidery is done mostly of dull color; contains much leaf. in red and blue, forming tulips and Karadagh Rugs Small and medium sized other flowers. Persian all wool rugs; the close and Kalpatadai East Indian cotton and silk medium long pile is tied in Ghiordes fabric, made with fine warp stripes knot. The ground is usually covered of white, yellow and crimson. with floral designs. Sometimes the rug is knitted. Kamdani (Fine East Indian cotton mus- lin. Karadi A long and quite coarse carpet wool from Mesopotamia. Dutch cambric. Kamerijk Karamushi A Japanese variety of the Kamptulicon Floor covering consisting ramie. of a strong and coarse cotton or jute Karankas Soft and heavy East Indian foundation, coated with a compound silk brocade with gold, silver or silk of ground cork, oil, rubber, etc. pattern over satin foundation. Obsolete first Kamschatka term for the Karatas IPine white leaf fiber, yielded by English chenille shawls, made with the wild pineapple in Central America, chenille weft, followed by three picks Brazil, etc.; used for fine hammocks, of common weft. strings, fishing lines, etc., by the In- Kanaffe Strong bast fiber of the Hibiscus dians. cannabinus in East India; used for Karawan Turkish skin wool from the thread and cordage. See Decan hemp. native fat tailed sheep. Kandahar Good carpet wool from Bast Kareya Very strong, thick cotton cloth India. made in India; used for garments. Native Kanga East African name for Karimganji Indian jute, having a very cotton shawls, printed in colors, most- strong and long staple of light color. ly brown, red, black, yellow and pink. Karmanian Khilims IMade in Turkestan; Kangam -Chinese nankeen of blue color. often have prayer rug d.esign. See Khilim. Kangars l^arge printed cotton handker- chiefs in red, black, green and yel- Karreldoek Linen sail cloth made in Hol- low; used for scarfs, etc., in Arabia. land. KAS 86 KEY

Kas Variety of raw cotton in Nubia. Kemuku Japanese silk waste, yielded by Kasan In Germany and Austria a woolen the outer skin of the cocoon in reel- dress goods, similar to a stout flan- ing. nel. Kendal A coarse English tweed of green Kasawari 'Printed bleached shirting; used color in the 14th century; used for in Persia, imported from India. clothing. Kasheda 'East Indian falbric, made of Kendir Stem (fiber of the Apocynum wild silk, often mixed with cotton, around the Adriatic Sea; used for and embroidered. ropes, nets, bags. Kashgar Coarse cotton rugs with long Kennedy A Highland tartan, composed of loose wool pile tied in Senna knot. a green ground, dark blue and black They are made in Central Asia. The checks and red and yellow lines. design consists of Chinese fret, drag- Kennet 'Coarse woolen cloth made in ons, fish, etc., in bright pinks, orange, Wales. yellows, etc. Kensington Quilt iHas large patterns Kashgar Cloth Thick but light dress formed of coarse thread on a fine goods made of Kashgar wool; It has plain woven ground. a face. long, napped Kenting Thin, sheer Silesia linen fabric. Kashkai Collective name for Kerman- Kentucky Jean Very strong, stout, weft Shiraz and shah, rugs. face fabric, made with cotton warp Kashmir Rug Another name for and wool filling in satin weave; used rugs (see). for trousers, etc. Kashmir Shawl See shawl. Cashmere Keratto Inferior fiber yielded by certain Kasida 'Sort of Dacca muslin (see), em- species of the Agave in the West In- broidered in floss silk; used for scarfs, dies. turbans, etc. Kerf In England the flock resulting from Kassapbatchi Coarse Turkish skin wool; shearing the cloth. used for carpets. Kermanshah Rugs Usually all-wool Per- Kattun German for calico. sian rugs. The medium long, close Kawamatta Trade term for inferior pile is tied in Ghiordes knot. The grades of Japanese silk fabrics. design usually consists of floral pat- Kawo Kawo iSilky, yellowish seed hair of terns, often small palm leaves in rows. the tree in the States. Bombax Malay Kermer A shawl made of pure silk, or Kaya A mosquito netting made in Japan. mixed with cotton, worn by the women Kazak Rugs Small and medium size, all- in Egypt. wool made in rugs Caucasia, having Red coloring matter, yielded by a soft tied in Ghiordes very long, pile the dried bodies of the coccus ilicis, knot; often there are four wefts al- a small insect. It is ground up in ternating with each row of knots. The hot water, producing the . Ex- consists of design geometrical pat- tensively used in past centuries to terns often having a toothed edge or dye silk and wool fabrics. primitively conventionalized trees and animals. Reds, greens and blues are Kermis 'Cotton handkerchiefs from East the favorite colors. At least one end India. ie finished with a knotted fringe. Kermiss 'Inferior English cotton fabric; Keckling In nautics, old rope around ca- used for dresses. bles to keep them from chafing. Kerr A Highland tartan, made as fol- Kedis Stout cotton shirting and lining in lows: Wide red bar, split in the cen- Asiatic Turkey. ter by three narrow black stripes Kefieh 'Printed cotton cloth, measuring which are spaced their own width about 42 inches square; used as head from each other; black stripe, about covering in Asia Minor. one-sixth in width of the red bar; Keith 'Commercial variety of early ma- dark green bar, same in width as red black turing, prolific cotton from Alabama, bar, split with a pair of stripes the staple measuring 24-26 milli- (as wide as those in the red bar) near meters; the yield ie 32-34 per cent. each edge, these black stripes being the bar Kekchi Raw cotton from Guatemala, the spaced from the edge of green and from each other their own width. staple being of good length and qual- ity. Kersey Stout, heavy and pliable twilled Kelat 'Variety of good, short carpet wool all-wool or cotton warp fa>bric, fin- from Beloochistan. ished with a close nap; used for coats. Kelly 'Commercial variety of prolific and Pine woolen suiting, having late maturing American cotton, the two-thirds of the filling and one-third staple measuring 26-30 millimeters; of the warp on the face. the of lint is 30-31 cent. yield per fabric, made Also called Marston. Kerseynet Light English with cotton warp and woolen filling; Kelt 'Scotch frieze made of natural black used for men's clothes. faced wool. skin of merino Kemea Indian all-silk taffeta made with Kevergik Turkish wool flower patterns. sheep. Kemp 'Diseased wool fibers, with un- Keymo An English finishing process, ren- evenly developed medulla, which dering woolens and worsteds un- causes streaks in dyeing. It is a shrinkable by a bath of sulphuric coarse, white, undeveloped fiber. acid. KHA 87 KIN

Khabbikutah 'Collective name for vari- Khonia 'East Indian cotton shawl with ous nondescript short pile, knotted richly embroidered design. Persian rugs. Khorassan 1, variety of Persian wool, of Khaiki iA plain woven, washable, light long, fine staple; 2, medium and large Japanese silk fabric. size Persian rugs with close and me- dium long fine wool pile tied in Sen- Khaki 1, a brownish earth color; 2, a na knot and unevenly. The very strong, durable fabric, made with clipped consists of fish or diagonal ribs; has the khaki color and pattern usually palm design the latter having smaller is used for army uniforms, etc., in ones in each one. The various countries. The k. made for placed large border has the United States Government is 28 usually trailing palm leaves. and blue are char- inches wide, weighing between 6% Magenta acteristic colors. and 7 oz. per linear yard. It is made of all cotton, 2,500 ends in the piece Khoseb 'Originally a fine muslin from and 54 picks in an inch, woven with Elgypt; used for turbans. a four-harness three to one twill. It Khudurangi 'Native East African name is dyed with fast khaki. The English for a coarse cotton fabric, dyed with army khaki overcoating has the weight henna. of 33 to 33H oz., the cloth contains 38 Khum (Dyed T cloth in Turkey; used for ends and 46 picks per finished inch long coats by the natives. and is woven in prunella twill. Khaki Cotton Various East Indian and Khuskus, Cuscus The roots of this grass Muriaticus) are used in Chinese cottons yielding tan or red- (Andropogon India for mats and baskets. dish colored staple. Khali Natural brown felted Persian fab- Khustka iShawI from Southern Russia, colored floral de- ric, embroidered in colored silk and embroidered with silver flowers. signs. Khandeish 'East Indian cotton, having a Kian Pakkian Cloth made of fine shreds harsh, strong and very dirty staple of of bamboo in Celebes. golden color. Kichorkay 'An East Indian cotton cloth. Kharajobi 'Name for a great variety of Kid Mohair taken from young Angora gold and silver embroidery made in goats. East India. Kidderminster Carpet 1, originally a Kharjikhan Bast Indian embroidery work coarse double-faced fabric of worsted in silver. gold and warp and woolen filling; 2, a triple Kharwa iRed East Indian cotton fabric; carpet cloth with two faces, the fig- used for ticks. gures alternating on both sides, made without called also Scotch car- Cotton muslin from India. pile; pet and Kilmarnock and ingrain in Kheetee East Indian chintz. the United States. Khemir Silk shawl from Egypt. Kidney Cotton Trade name for Brazilian cotton. Khersek iHeavy Persian woolen rugs with in a shaggy pile. Kienchow Silk Foulard with pressed made in is about 16 iStout East Indian cotton fabric patterns, China; inches wide. made with check patterns or colored, often gold border. Kikci or Kikoy A heavy gray cotton in the Eastern of Khilim iRugs of all sizes made in Ana- sheeting parts black and red Turkestan and several Africa, having yellow, tolia, Persia, used for of the Balkan States. are wov- border stripes; garments by They the natives. en by hand and have no pile, the weft See Khilim. being of hard twisted wool. The de- sifrn. which is alike on both sides, con- Kilmarnock 1, a coarse 18th century sists of angular geometrical figures Scotch serge; 2, see Kidderminster. in a great variety of colors. They are Kimcha See Camocato. used for divan covers and portieres. Kinari Trade term for Persian pile run- Khiva 'Fine, all-wool rugs of small size, ners of various characters and ori- made in Turkestan, the short, close gin. pile being tied in Senna knot. The Kincob Fast Indian silk muslin, occa- consists of or design octagonal figures sionally richly interwoven with gold in the prayer rug pattern rich reds, or silver; used for men's and women's blue, ivory and a little green. dresses. Khodar Coarse cotton East Indian fab- Kindergarten Cloth Stout, heavy, plain ric; used for garments 'by the na- woven cotton fabric, usually made tives. with yarn dyed warp stripes. The Khokti Yellowish or brown cotton cloth warp is single yarn, two ends drawn made in India. It is very durable, in. The number of ends i.3 almost smooth and glossv, the finest grade three times higher than the number bein? similar to the best brown hoi- of warps; used for children's clothes. land. King Improved An early maturing com- Khoktibanga Variety of East Indian raw mercial variety of prolific upland cot- cotton, having a yellowish but good, ton, the staple measuring 25-28 milli- strong staple. meters; the yield of lint is 32-34 per cent. Khombal iCoarse, plain East Indian wool blanket. Kinik Variety of Turkish raw wool. KIN KOT

Kinji Shusu Japanese silk satin with a Knittles In nautics, the strands of two partly or completely gilded face; used ropes twisted together. kimonos. for Knop Yarn Same as nub yarn in Eng- Kink 1, a snarl in a hard twiet yarn; 2, land. in nautics to a twist rope. Knopp Work iFramework knitting, with Kinkale 'Light Bast Indian silk, brocaded two sets of needles and Jacquard at- with silk or gold threads. tachment, which regulates the accum- of certain needles Kiotonan Chinese satin with damask fig- ulation loops on and ures. thus forms the design. Kirbas Green hangings mentioned in Knot There are two kinds of knots form- the in Oriental one is Esther I, 6. Believed to be of cot- ing pile rugs, ton. the Turkish or Ghiordes, the other the Persian or Senna (see each). The of raw cotton from Kirkagatsch Variety fineness of the is the Asia Minor. rug judged by number of knots to a square inch. Kirmanshaw See Kermanshah. Knotted Laces 'Made in Italy, Dalmatia, Kirriemuir (Modern twilled linen, simi- etc., by tying lengths of thread into lar to the material used in old em- knots by the hands, the knots form- broidered curtains. ing patterns like the macrame. Kir-Shehr Rugs IMade in Angora, Asia Knotted Work (Laces made by knots; Minor, the warp and weft are of dyed either tatting or macrame. the is tied in GTiiordes wool, long pile Knub In England the very closely wov- knot. The Arabic designs are in bril- en, hard and fine inner layer of the liant reds and blues. The greens, cocoon; used for waste silk. sides and ends are selvaged. Ko Very durable, soft, fine and Kissmess (East Indian calico. Hemp silky bast fiber, yielded by the Puer- Kitay (Fancy colored Chinese silk and aria thunbergiana in China, India and cotton cloth. Japan; used for summer clothing fab- Kittool or Kitul iBlack, very coarse, rics. straight, smooth, glossy and strong Kodrung (Same as Khudurangi. from the leaves of fabric, obtained Kogalla Yarn 'The best grade of coir the kittool palm in India and Ceylon; yarn made in Ceylon. used for strong ropes, 'brushes, mats, etc. Koja Gray drill or four-leaf twill cotton cloth imported in Abyssinia and used Kleanka -A Russian buckram. for native dresses. The weave is Knap tCoarse, blue woolen, used for sail- coarse with low grades of cotton or ors' clothes in England. waste in the filling. There are red, black or green stripes across both ends Kneipp Linen Porous, rough faced, of the piece and along both selvages. twilled linen fabric, made in Germany and Austria; used for towels and un- Koko Native Hawaiian name for a knit- derwear. Originally it was knitted. ted or netted bag, made of coir or Knib JTechnical term for knots, or un- hemp. even places on the silk fiber. Kokti See Khokti. Knickerbockei faced wool and Rough Kompon A plain woven, stout linen in cotton mixture dress goods, made with China; used for garments by the na- nub yarns. It comes in mixture colors. tives. Knickerbocker Yarns 'Yarns with colored Konieh all-wool rugs, made nubs made ,by printing the card sliver. Rugs Heavy in Asia Minor, the medium long pile Knit Goods 'Loose elastic both fabrics, is tied in Ghiordes knot. Many of ways, made of one or more continu- the old samples have a hexagonal ous itself threads interlaced with and field and rich colors. (Modern K. rows of each forming loops holding rugs have a great variety of colors. other but not tied. They are made The sides and ends are finished with either with the weft thread, when a selvage. they are called framework knitted or with the warp, called warp knitted Konje Native African name of the bow- fabrics. hemp fiber (see). In the fabric is formed Koomach Cotton cloth in Russia, usu- the iby interlocking parallel warp ally dyed bright solid red, also indigo one of threads, forming row loops or green; used for , women's as in simultaneously, shawls, scarfs, dresses, etc. laces. The framework knitted fabrics are formed of horizontally knitted Korako Native name for the New Zeal- threads, each row of loops being and flax, yielding fibers suitable for formed of a single thread, as fine fabrics. in plain and ribbed knitting. Korotes An East Indian coarse calico. They are also classified into flat and tubular. (See crocheting.) They are Kota -Plain woven cotton cloth imported used mainly for underwear, hosiery, in Abyssinia and used for native , also for scarfs and of late dresses. It is about 30 inches wide also for coating and suiting. and 14 yards long. Knittinq Cotton, Wool or Silk .Smooth, Kotzen 'Rugs and laprobes, made in Aus- soft spun yarn of various sizes; used tria of coarse goat's hair with a very for hand knitting. long hair on both sides. KOU 89 LAG

Koujong Very soft, fine, twilled woolen, LacA fairly fast orange or crimson dye, made in China. yielded by the dried bodies of the coc- Kron The best sort of Russian flax. cus laccae, an insect living on flg trees. It was used formerly as mor- Kuba Oriental all-wool rug, having a danted dye, but is very little in use long and fine pile in light colors. now. Kulah Made in Asia Minor; an- Rugs Lace an ornamental formed tique of all-wool in prayer rug 1, textile, rugs without the aid of a design with a fine short and close ground fabric, in this differing from the embroidery. pile tied in Ghiordes knot; red and The real or hand-made lace is made gold brown were often used. either the needle (point lace) or Modern K. rugs are of large size, the by on a pillow by means of bobbins (pil- long and loose pile contains mohair. low Machine lace is made The colors and design are inferior. lace). by machinery and is measured accord- brocaded silk Kulkan Richly shawls, ing to the number of warp threads in to the cash- made Persia, similar within an inch, as six-point, ten- mere shawls. poimt, etc. See also artificial lace; 2, Kumbi

Kurkee A heavy and coarse English Ladder ! Stitch Used in embroidery and blanket. made by running parallel or zigzag bars over an wide or Kurrijong Dark, tenacious bast fiber, evenly space by the material to yielded by a species of the Commer- working the bars on sonia in New South Wales; used for imitate the rungs of a ladder. nets. Ladder Tape Stout cotton tape; used for Venetian blinds. Kydia Strong inner toast fiber, yielded by the Kydia calycina in India; used Ladies' Cloth 1, variety of English light- for ropes. weight broadcloth, made in plain weave for women's wear, originally Kyrle Yarn Fancy woolen yarn; used for made in as scarlet, various overcoatings and dress light colors, pink, blue and apple green; 2, flne goods. gentian napped face flannel, used for women's wear. Ladik Rugs 'Small, all-wool rugs, made in Asia Minor; the weft is colored; the short and close pile is tied in Ghiordes knot. 'Scarlet red and white are often used. The ends are fin- ished with a red selvage. Ladines Eighteenth century woolen fab- ric in England. La A very strong and light mat, made of the leaves of the pandanus in the Lado Short, coarse but strong raw cot- Tonga Islands: used for sails. ton of white color, grown in the Sene- gal Valley. Label Cloth In England a heavily sized, plain woven cotton fabric; used for Lagetta See Lace Bark. tags. Lagos Variety of African cotton having Laburnum Fine thin dress goods made a moderately strong and coarse sta- with silk warp and worsted weft in ple of brown color and very irregu- a 2 and 1, warp face twill lar in length. LAG 90 LAP

La Guyra Variety of West Indian cloth, Lametta a Thin metal thread used in bro- having eilky staple, very irregular cades. in length. Lament A Highland Lahar Light weight soft crepe made of tartan, composed of the following colors; *Dark coHon warp and silk filling: obso- green lete. stripe; white stripe, measuring less than half the width of the green- 1, knotted cotton and wool rugs dark green stripe, in repeated ; black made India. The design consists stripe, as wide as of alternate green; stripes of usually rowe of palm dark blue, black, dark leaves; dress blue, black, 2, English goods, made each as wide as white one; dark of cashmere wool. blue stripe as wide as green; stripes Laid Wool Tarred on the back of the of black, dark blue, black, dark blue eheep. each as wide as the white; black as Laid Work Embroidery, consisting of stripe, wide as the green; repeat couching. group described above between two *; black as La ine French for wool. stripe, wide as green one; dark blue stripe, as wide as green one- Laine Brodee A two-fold of yarn, made group of three stripes, black, blue an open and firm Australia wool, and black, each as wide as used white; blue as weft in genuine Beauvais and stripe, as wide as black Gobelin green; stripe, tapestries. as wide as green. Laine de Carmenie Persian goats' hair. Lamot Native Philippine name for Man- Laine Elastique All-wool, dull black, ila hemp. French light dress goods made in Lamparillas All-wool or linen or silk and corded effect. crepe warp, lightweight fabric in solid col- Laine de Terneaux Variety of French or, stripes, or figures, made in Fland- merino wool. ers in the eighteenth century. Laisot 'Strong French linen canvas o' 1, originally East Indian print- ed good quality, made 48 inches wide. silks; 2, silk fabric, having satin woven on iLaizes iFrench laces, consisting of a figures a different colored taffeta used for clear net ground and powdered pat- ground; drapery and terns, in dots or small flowers. upholstery. du Lake Fine medieval woolen fabric; used Lampas Japon Rich French silk bro- flexible bast an In- cade, made with warp ribs; used for fiber, yielded by dress dian shrub, and used for ropes. goods, drapery, etc. Lamsa Better Murga Said to be a grade of calico used for very strong, inner in England. coats in Persia. Lana del Lalio Several varieties of raw cottons tambor A Venezuelan silky grown in Kathiawar and Ahmedabad, seed hair, grown on a species of the Bombax tree; used for India. The staple is fair, but usually stuffing. dirty with leaves. Lana Vejetale Variety of Venezuelan tree cotton. Lama Plain or twilled flannel-like French woolen lining with a slight nap; Lances General French term for fabrics in comes in plain colors or stripes. which certain of the filling threads are Lama-barchent In Germany and Aus- crossing only a number of warp threads, for the tria a very softly finished cotton fab- floating rest. Lanella ric woven Tvith two sets of filling Fleece Proprietary name for a threads of different colors, one form- fiber prepared from a grass; it is ing the face and the other the back carded with shoddy and used for and napped on both sides. cheap clothing. Lama Croise A light, twilled French Langet A heavy and inferior pillow lace woolen dress goods. made in Holland, used on dresses by the native Lamba A very stout cloth in Borneo, peasant women. woven from the leaf fibers of the cur- Lanilla Hard worsted serge of medium culigo latifolia. quality on the western coast of South America. Lambsdown A plated knit cloth, the face made with very heavy and spongy Lanillas Eighteenth century worsted fleece raised from slack twist woolen from Flanders. yarn, while the back is of hard spun Lannoy Sort of French velvet, now ob- cotton; used for children's coats, car- solete. riage robes, etc. Lansdown Soft dress goods made with Lamb's Wool Shorn from lambs when silk warp and worsted filling in a less than a year old. three harness twill weave.

Lambskin A very closely woven cotton Laos Silk crepe, made with raw silk fabric, made in an eight-leaf, weft warp and tussah filling, the latter be- face satin weave, containing a very ing alternately two picks of right large number of picks. The fabric hand twist and two of has a woolly nap raised on the picks left face; hand. used for working clothes. 'A wide layer of carded or Lame Brocade woven with flat metal Lap combed fibers, wound on a thread (tinsel), which forms either roller, ready to be the pattern or the ground of the fab- spun. ric. Lappa An East Indian silk brocade. LAP 91 LIB

Lappet Weaving A process of decorat- Lechuguilla Fiber yielded by the plant ing plain woven or gauze fabrics with of same name growing wild in Mex- embroidery-like effect simultaneous- ico. The fiber is very strong, coarse ly with the weaving of the ground. and is used for bags, ropes, etc. Also The pattern is formed by an extra called ixtle. than the warp thread, heavier ground, Left Hand Twist Any single or ply yarn, in direction of the fill- trailing the the final twist of which is from right ing. to left. of raw cotton from Laguary Variety Left Twill >Any diagonal twill, runnine Colombia. to the left. bleached or cot- Larees Gray, printed Legs See Bars. ton cloth in East India, imported from England. Lehner Silk Artificial silk made accord- ing to the collodion process. Lashed Pile Weft pile fabrics, the pile picks interwoven with three warp Leicester Good English wool, spinning ends after each float. This secures about 40s to 44s yarns. The staple is a fast pile. very lustrous, light and long. Lasting A narrow and very stout Eng- Leipzis Obsolete French wool serge, lish worsted, woven with double or made in white or in mixed colors and three-ply warp, and single filling in about 20 inches wide. a five-leaf satin weave; used for shoe Leisure In England the selvage of vel- tops. vets and silks. Latile A grass; used for fine braids, etc., by the natives of the Solomon Is- Leno 1, a weave consisting in crossing lands. certain warp threads with each other, forming open work designs; 2, light Lattice Braid Same as ladder braid. weight cotton or silk fabrics, having Lattice Stitch In embroidery slanting two sets of warp, crossing' each other bars are run across a long, narrow, in the weave; used for dresses, open space, forming lattice work. waists, etc. See . Lauhala Fine mats, made of pandanus Leontine French silk dress goods, made the natives of used leaves by Hawaii; with two-ply warp in white, blue and for covers. black colors. La uie similar to the Large plant, pan- Leslie Highland tartan, of the danus. The leaves are used by tha consisting following: Wide dark green stripe; natives of Samoa for clothing mats. narrow black stripe; wide dark green Laval Various French linen fabrics. stripe; very fine white line; black Lavander Fine, bleached and figured stripe, made a little narrower than French linen; obsolete. green one; dark blue of same width as the black; red as wide as Lavena Fine, woolen dress stripe, lightweight black between the dark goods of natural color. green ones; blue stripe repeated; wide black Laventine Thin silk lining. stripe repeated; fine white line. Lawn A woven, plain very light, soft, Leucorhodina A medieval silk fabric of smooth and sheer cotton or linen wash very pale pink color. dress goods, woven in gray or with bleached yarns, often printed after Levant Anatolian cotton, having a fair- the weaving; is similar to cambric ly long, harsh and strong staple of but lighter. white color.

Lay See lea. ''.evantine P o u r-1 e a f, d o u b 1 e-faced, woven silk Laying The doubling process in man- closely serge, having sin- gle or Comes in ufacturing ropes. ply warp. mostly solid colors, but also in stripes. Lea Measure for wet spun linen yarn; Leviathan Canvas canvas it means the number of 300 yard Coarse, open used for cuts that weigh one pound. Twelve embroidery. leas make a hank, 200 leas or 16% Leviathan Stitch Called also Railway hanks make a bundle. stitch; used in embroidery. It is of three Lea Yarn Linen yarn spun according composed long stitches next to each other to the wet crossed by a fourth in process. the middle. Lead 'A used in Sulphate paste, print- Leviathan Wool Thick, soft wool with blue colors. yarn ing for embroidery. Lead Works In laces: see fillings, jours Lewis Commercial variety of American and modes. upland cotton; now obsolete. Leamington Axminster Small size ma- Liage 'French term for an extra warp chine-made Axminster rugs in light which binds the extra brocade weft colors for bath rooms. thread. Lean Wool with a harsh handle; spins Libau Coarse Russian flax having un- unsatisfactorily. clean fibers.

Leather Cloth 1, a heavy woolen fabric Liberty 1, originally an East Indian tus- made in England; 2, stout, coarse coU sah silk cloth, printed in Europe; 2, ton fabric, covered with a varnish light, pliable and highly finished silk layer, grained and finished to resem- fabric; used for dresses, trimmings, ble leather. etc. LIB LIN

Libret Coarse, partly bleached or dyed dark blue, narrow stripes near each light blue linen cloth from Egypt, edge, these stripes being spaced from exported through Asia Minor. the edge and from each other their own width; dark blue about Licella Yarn, made in Germany, by stripe, one-fifth the width of the rose bar. twisting and gluing a strip of paper; not manufactured any more. Line 1, name for hackled flax, which is Liege Lace Obsolete Belgian bobbin lace numbered either as warp numbers (for of the seventeenth and eighteenth fine dressed line), the numbers, rang- centuries, similar to the Binche lace. ing from 25 to 100 indicating the lea Lienoillo Gray cotton goods in South of a fair warp yarn which can be American countries. spun of that line. With the other num- Lienzo Unbleached cotton sheetings and bering, used in Scotland, the number shirtings in Argentine, Paraguay and indicates the pounds per spindle of Uruguay. 14,400 yards of yarn; dressed line is Lif Name for the fiber yielded by the a thoroughly hackled flax; 2, stand- leaf stalks of the date palm in Ara- ard of measurement for the width of bia and Africa; used for ropes, coarse ribbons, being 1-11 inch; 3, the rib cloth, etc. on the braid. Ligature 'Lightweight, inferior French Line Yarn Linen yarn spun from the brocatelle, made of all cotton or cot- longer flax fibers; syun up to 300 leas. consisted ton and wool. The pattern Lined WorkA twill, made by the sym- usually of small checks, lattice work metrical combinations of the broken or large, colored flowers. Used for diamond twills, like the bird's eye. bed obsolete. covers; Linen Fabrics made of the fibers of the Ligne Same as Line 2. flax. Lille Lace A bobbin lace, the earlier Linen Checks Blue and white striped or specimens have straight edges, the checked all linen cloth; used for patterns being outlined with a heavy dresses and aprons. cordonnet, the hexagonal ground is Linen Weave Same as plain weave. a and fine mesh, each mesh very light Linen Yarn 'Spun of flax fiber. Dry spin- two sides made of a single having ning, employed in Scotland, gives a thread and four sides of two threads very strong yarn; for wet spin- twisted together. ning the flax fiber is first ma- Lima Raw cotton from Peru; the staple cerated in hot water, which separates is rather coarse and harsh. the fiber into its short, ultimate com- this is used for the fine Lime Used in dyeing cotton with in- ponents; counts. digo or black. The systems for linen Lace Irish execu- numbering Limerick needlework, yarn are: ted either by stitching patterns with heavier thread over machine made net In Scotch, dry spun yarn one spin- ground or by buttonholing the edges dle (or spangle) contains 2 hesps, or of the pattern traced over lawn or 4 hanks, or 24 heers, or 48 cuts, or muslin, cutting away the ground and 5,760 threads, or 14,400 yards. applying the whole on machine made In Ireland and England 1 bundle net. contains 16 2-3 hanks, or 200 cuts, or leas, or 24,000 threads, or 60,000 yards. Limoges 1, coarse French bagging made 12 of strong hemp yarn; 2, a cotton and In Austria one schock contains linen cloth, made in colored stripe bundles, or 60 pieces, or 240 hanks, for beds in Switzerland; 3, an ob- or 4,800 cuts, or 288,000 threads. solete French guipure lace. The Dorset and Somerset system Lin du pays Trade term for dew retted takes the weight of 21,600 yards flax from Premesques and Beau- (called "dozen" or 12 half hanks). camps, France. In France the pacquet contains Lincere The finest linen fabrics in an- 360,000 yards. cient Greece, made with double warp In Belgium the pacquet contains and single filling. 180,000 yards. Lincoln Lustrous and thick English According to the numbering based wool, used for yarns from 38s to 40s. on the metric system, the number the kilometres Lincoln Green A heavy English woolen gives (1,000 metres) of yarn contained in one kilogram (2.2 fabric, dyed green; obsolete. pounds). Linden Strong bast fiber, yielded by the Linet French canvas, made of unbleach- linden (lime) tree; used for cordage, mats, shoes, etc., in Europe. ed linen; used for lining. Lindsay A Highland tartan, made as Linge French for linen. rose colored follows: Wide bar, split Same as Cambric (see). in the center with a pair of very nar- Lingette 1, obsolete lightweight wool dark blue lines; dark blue now, stripe serge made in France and England; fifth the width of the rose about one- 2, name for several kinds of obsolete bar; dark green bar, slightly narrow- French flaVinels, also for a better er than rose one, split with a pair of grade English flannel. LIN 93 LOG

Lining A fabric usually made with cot- Listados 1, Cotton checks in Venezuela; ton warp and wool o.r alpaca or silk 2, blue and white or red and white filling: used for lining garments. checked linens or cottons made in Lining Felt Made of hair and asbestos, France, for the Latin-American trade. often mixed with plaster Paris; used Listed Fabrics having damaged selvage. to insulate pipes and boilers. Listones Silk and velvet ribbons in Lat- Linneas Printed cotton goods in the in-America. African markets. Litt Medieval name for dyed fabric. Lino I'sed in England for leno (see). Little Joans 'An eighteenth contuwy Linoleum A floor covering made on bur- name for buntings, made in Eng- lap base. Oxidized linseed oil is mixed land. with ground cork and othec pig- ments. This composition is rolled Liuse Chienyong Scarlet red, cut silk over the burlap base. It comes in velvet from China. plain, printed or inlaid. The plain Livery Coarse, matted and short - has a uniform surface in one color; ing wool taken from English cross- printed linoleum has patterns printed bred fleeces. in inlaid has of dif- colors; patterns Tweed and durable ferent colored compositions which go Livery Very strong made of wool in through to the burlap base. whipcord tweed, England. Used for uniforms and liv- Linon Plain and closely woven fine, very eries. light, glossy, washable cotton or lin- en fabric; used for dresses, waists, Lizard In nautics a rope with several etc. It comes in white or solid colors. rings spliced into it. It is the French for lawn. Llama 1, long, very smooth hair of Linon a joui French linen gauze. Same brownish or black color, yielded by the as gaze de fll (see). South American llama; 2, a union both the and Linsay Obsolete, twilled English cloth shirting, warp filling containing about one-third of cotton of linen warp and woolen filling. See and the rest wool. Xiinsey. Linsel 'French dress goods, made of Llama Yarn 'Made of a mixture of cot- wool and linen; obsolete. ton and wool.

Linsey 1, strong, durable, coarse English Llanchama Native Brazilian name for cloth made of linen warp and worsted the interior, fibrous bark of the cou- filing in white, blue or stripes. Used ratari tree; used for clothing, ropes, for dresses by the country folk; 2, etc. rag sorting term, signifying any kind Loaded See Weighted. of wool fabric containing cotton, ex- cept carpets, dress goods and flan- Loaf Cotton Raw cotton formerly grown nels. in Montserrat, West Indies. Linsey Woolsey Obsolete, stout fabric, Lochrea Coarse, bleached Irish linen. woven with linen warp and wool fill- Lock 'A tuft of wool. ing. Lockout Wool with a stringy formation. Lint 'Waste of cotton, produced in gin- medieval linen ning, is about one-third of the whole Lockram Coarse, fabric, weight. originally from Brittany, made In plain weave and inferior quality. Also Linthee A Chinese silk taffeta. a coarse French linen fabric; obso- Lintrees In France a silk fabric form- lete. erly imported from China. Locks Ln wool-sorting the odds and ends Lintrius, Lintheamina [Linen sheeting, and sweepings. used by the Anglo-Saxons. Locrenan Coarse, stout, unbleached Lion Obsolete French made of linen, French hemp fabric; used for sails. hard spun flax thread in plain weave or with small dobby designs. Loden A thick, fulled, soft fabric, made in Austria and Germany. It is woven Lisardes 1, an East Indian and Persian of wool or admixture of camel hair, cotton cloth; 2, a coarse Egyptian linen cloth. and is quite waterproof without be- ing treated chemically. Used lor Lisere French silk cloth Stout, made coats, sporting clothes, etc. with weft brocaded flowers and Jac- quard figures with the warp. Lofty A firm bold wool having an ex- panding staple. Lisiere 'French for selvage. Lisieux 'Various French linen cloths, Logan 'A Highland tartan, made as fol- made in the country; now obsolete. lows: Dark green stripe; a group, somewhat narrower, of red, Lisle Hard spun thread, made of long composed black, yellow, black, red stripes of staple, combed cotton, the yarn is even width; dark green stripe; black gassed and is used for hosiery and underwear. stripe, wider than green; dark blue field (over four times wider than Lisse 1, French for warp; 2, a silk black stripe), traversed by fine red gauze used for dresses. stripes, spaced from each other the List of their The selvage. , distance width; black stripe. List Carpet Made with strong cotton Loghouse See Canadian patch- warp and a filling of cloth list. work. LOG 94 LUM

Logwood A very deep and permanent Loose Back Trade term for quilts, hav- black dye obtained from the chipped ing the stitching warps floated on the wood of haematoxylon Campechian- back. Also name for welts where the um, a tree in Central America and wadding fillings are not interwoven surrounding islands. It is used for with the warp. dyeing silk, which is mordanted and Loretto Obsolete rich silk fabric; used loaded previously by various salts. for vests. cotton Lona Inferior, loosely woven Lorna Forte cotton duck, made in Latin Heavy duck, made or used in America Portugal. for sails, clothing, etc. Lotanza A white linen cloth in Cuba. London Shrunk A permanent shrinking imparted to woolen and worsted fab- Louis Quinze Lace Imitation tape lac- The are of braid and rics. The goods are dampened first patterns made heavily with cold water and after- connected with bars. ward dryed in open air or between Louisiana A number of commercial va- heated plates, taking care not to rieties of short staple upland cotton stretch the fabric. This process is from Louisiana and neighboring slow but prevents any subsequent States. shrinking. Louisine Lustrous, light silk dress goods Londres^Very wide, fulled woolen dress with twice as many warp ends than goods of English origin. See also 'fillings to the square inch. Usually Londrin. each pick crossing two wanps at once, thus forming ribs. Londrin 'Light, fulled French and Eng- warp lish woolens exported to South Amer- Lousiness Flaw in silk or cotton cloth ica and the Levant. showing speedy spots in the finished Loneta A cotton canvas in Paraguay goods. and other South American countries Love A very sheer, plain silk fabric in and a 28- tinch wide cotton duck for England. sails in Chile. Love Ribbon .Black or white, narrow Long Cloth Plain and closely woven gauze ribbon with satin stripes; ob- bleached or printed, fine and soft cot- solete. ton fabric; used for underwear. It Lover Linen Imitatior Irish linen ex- has little very sizing and is often ported to America. gassed. Low-end Woolens 'Another name for Long Cross Stitch In embroidery a varia- woolens made of shoddy or very short tion of the cross stitch (see) the two wool fibers. stitches crossing each other, forming not a perfect square but an oblong. Low Middling iFull cotton grade. See Long Ell Twilled English fabric made Cotton. of hard spun single or two-ply wors- Lowry 'Name of an improved cylindrical ted warp and woolen filling. Large cotton bale formed from a continu- quantities exported. ous flat coil, fastened with wire ties Long NoilThe best grade of silk noils and enclosed in 'bagging. Average in England. weight 250 pounds. Long Poll In England a plush with - Lucca Cloth Medieval fabrics woven of gy pile. silk and gold or silver in Italy. Long (Long cotton or wool fiber. Staple Lucky Minny's Line Fibrous stem of the Long Stitch Similar to satin stitch (see). Algae; used for flshing lines in Scot- land. Long Wool Long wool staple, combed for worsteds. Luftspitze "Is a lace made on shuttle ma- Longotte iPlain woven French cotton chine in cotton over a wool founda- cloth, much heavier and stouter than tion or in silk or wool on cotton foun- calico. dation. After the embroidering is done the foundation is destroyed with Indian checked taffeta. Longuis East chemicals which do not affect the Loom Figured 'Fabrics having patterns work itself thus leaving a lace like woven in the loom as against printed product. or embroidered patterns. Lukchoo Chinese fabric, about 16 inches Loom Finished 'Fabrics sold in the state wide, made of silk and cotton. It is they are taken from the loom, with- often blue and is used for clothing. out any finishing. Lule Term applied in the Levant mar- Loonghie See . kets to very thick Oriental rugs of Loop Pile Like that of the terry fabric heterogeneous origin. These rugs are or the pile formed by the warp before not folded but rolled. cutting. LumberHine Very sheer black gauze; Loop Stitch Used in embroidery to pro- used for women's dresses and veils duce picot effect. under Henry VIII of England. Loop Yarn Made of a hard spun binder Lumineux A lightweight French silk a heavier thread and and loosely fabric, made in variegated effect and twisted yarn, the latter forming loops. 'finished with a luster; used for mil- Looped See full regular. linery trimmings. LUM MAC

Lump In the English trade cloths woven Lyons Thread Gold filled thread with 130 yards long and 90 inches wide to copper core; used for braids, trim- toe split and cut into half lengths; mings, etc. also fabric which is woven double any Lyre A woolen fabric, believed to be of its it is sold in the market. length good quality, mentioned in 15th cen- Lumps Plain woven, bleached cotton tury English manuscripts; texture cloth made in England 32 inches wide, unknown. with 64 ends and 64 picks in a square inch; used for calicoes. Luneburg Flax A fine variety of German flax. Luneville Lace 'French narrow bobbin lace made of hemp thread with double M ground, now obsolete. At the present bobbin-made flower sprigs are sewn to machine-made net. Cotton Lungi cloth used in India, Ara- Maaypoosten An Indian silk dress goods. bia, etc., for garments. The body is of email 'blue and white checks, the Mabroum 'Lightweight, plain woven cot- selvage is composed of various colored ton fabric, made of native cotton in stripes and a narrow red stripe is Damascus and used for garments by running lengthwise in the middle. the natives; obsolete. Lupis 'Native name for the fine, white Macalister A Highland tartan, the com- and glossy fibrous layer of the Musa position of which is as follows: The textilis; used for delicate fabrics in ground is red, traversed by very nar- the Philippine Islands. row pale blue and white lines, dark Lusca Silk fabric of unknown construc- blue stripes and green stripes of two tion of the Middle Ages. different Widths*. 'These lines and are in in Lustering 'Finishing process which stripes arranged groups, pro- instance duces a gloss in the face of the fab- every a very narrow stripe of the red visible be- ric through pressing, calendering, etc. ground being tween the parts of each group. These Lustre 1, the natural 'gloss of the mo- groups follow in order: *>Pale blue hair, alpaca, the Leicester Lincoln and line, wide green stripe, pale blue line; other wool or the to gloss imparted stripe of red ground, the width of the the face of any fabric in the finishing wide green stripe; white line, wide process; 2, a plain woven fabric, wov- dark blue stripe, white line, two nar- en in the gray made with cotton warp row green stri'pes, white line, narrow and mohair, alpaca or some lustre dark blue strrpe, white line; 'strip of wool black filling; usually dyed or the red ground, the width of the blue; used for coats, etc skirts, wider green stripe; repeat groups de- Lustre Lining In England a lining fab- scribed above between the two *, In ric, made with cotton warp and a mo- reversed order; wide strip of the red hair or lustrous worsted filling. It ground; pale blue line, wide green is woven in 4 and 1 weft twill. stripe, pale blue line; strip of the red Lustre Orleans 'English fabric of the 19th ground, the width of the wider green century, made with cotton warp and stripe; white line, narrow green stripe, bright Yorkshire or Lincolnshire wool pale blue line, white line, pale blue filling. line, narrow green stripe; strip of the red ground, the width of the wider Lustre Wool English long wool, having green stripe; narrow green stripe, pale a strong long and glossy staple; used blue line, white line, pale blue line, for dress goods. Lincoln and Leices- narrow stripe, white line; strip ter are included, also the wools green grown of the width of the wider green in Indiana and Kentucky. red, stripe; pale blue line, wide green Lustre Yarn Glossy hard spun woolen stripe, pale blue line; wide red stripe. made of soft and lustrous yarn, long, of wool. MadAllister Commercial variety up- land cotton, same as Peerless. Lustrene twilled and mer- Lightweight, A Highland tartan with a dark cerized cotton lining. Macalpine green ground, arranged as follows: Lustrine "Figured silk or wool satin, made Wide green strip, siplit in the middle in France. The flower patterns are with a narrow black stripe; a group produced with an extra warp; the of stripes (twice as wide as the green back is plain. The fabric has a high strip) composed of two black stripes finish. (about twice the width of the black in the middle of the green) at the edge narrow black silk Lutestring 1, ribbon, of the group with two very wide black used for eyeglasses; 2, fine, warp stripes inside. One of these wide ribbed silk dress goods of high fin- Wack is split with a white ish. stripes and the other with a yellow narrow Luxor A soft, ribbed silk satin; used aa stripe in the center, the order of the dress fabric; also an obsolete French white and yellow being the same in woolen dress goods. each repeat. Lyme Regis Lace Fine bobbin and needle Macana A closely and plain woven fine point laces made in England during cotton fabric, made with colored the 18th century; now obsolete. checks. MAC MAC

Macarthur A Highland tartan, composed Macdonald of Clanranald A Highland of the following on a dark green tartan one repeat of which is: A wide ground: Yellow stripe with a green field of dark green, split in the middle bar on each side, eix times its width; by a white stripe a.nd at each side black stripe, twice as wide as the a narrow red line and a red stripe yellow; green stripe somewhat nar- (wider than the white one) the lines rower than this black; black bar, and stripes sipaced; black stripe, same about 6 times as wide as yellow stripe; in width as the distance between the green stripe, as above; black stripe, outer red stripe and the edge of the twice as wide as the yellow. green .field; narrow red line; dark blue field (about four-fifths the width of A with a red Macaulay Highland tartan, the green one), split by a pair of as follows: ground, composed A very red stripes (as wide as in the green wide red a black field, split by stripe field) the space between these stripes in the middle; dark green stripe, two- and the edge of the blue field being and-half times as as red wide black; equal to the width of the black stripe. stripe, as wide as black one; dark tartan green bar, the width of the black Macdonald of Slate A Highland field. dark stripe and half of the red field; this with a bright red Wide, almost four green bar is split in the center by a green stripes are placed narrow white line; red stripe, the times their own width from each of these width of the black one; green stripe, other; one-third the width two-and-half times as wide as black stripes, and on 'both of their sides are one. very narrow green stripes. Macbean A Highland tartan, the bright Macdonald of Staffa A Highland tartan with a bright red field, on which the red ground of which is traversed by stripes are arranged as follows: 'black wide groups of stripes, in which the line; red stripe with a narrow green white, black and green lines are very stripe near to each edge; dark blue narrow and of equal width and the stripe, half the width of the red; red dark blue stripes are about half the stripe, as wide as the first red one, width of the green and dark red ones. split in the center by a narrow white The arrangement of the stripes in a stripe*; green stripe, as wide as the red and with a narrow line group is: *White line, blue stripe, split fine, of white; red field, three-and-half black line, white line, black line, blue times as wide as the green stripe, split white black stripe, line, line, green with six dark green, two black and stripe, black line, white line, narrow four dark blue stripes, arranged as stripe of the ground, dark red stripe follows: Green near to each edge, in (split with green line), narrow stripe the center are two pairs of blues, with of the ground, white line*, green a pair of green stripes on each side, stripe; repeat stripes and lines men- the inner stripes having a black stripe next to described tioned between the two *, in reversed them; repeat group above between two in reversed or- order. Red ground, somewhat less *, der. than half the width of the entire group. Macdonell of Glengarry A Highland tar- tan, made as follows: Black stripe; Macbeth A Highland tartan, composed as narrow red line; blue field, four times follows: 'Yellow stripe; black stripe, as wide as black stripe, split by two somewhat wider; group of white line, pairs -of narrow red stripes, of which black line, white line, black line, total the outer ones are about twice as width same as black stripe; green wide as the inner ones; red line; stripe, twice as wide as black*; red black stripe, as above; dark green stripe (twice as wide as green), split ifield, as wide as the dark blue, split by two black lines and a white line by 2 pairs of red stripes of same between, spaced; repeat group de- width and position as found in the scribed between two *, in reversed or- blue field and with an additional der; dark blue stripe, just half the white line between the two pairs. width of the entire complete group of tartan stripes. Macdougal A Highland composed of the following: 'Fine green line, near MacBrlde Commercial variety of a me- to much wider, dark green, red and dium long staple upland cotton; now dark green stripes of even width; gray obsolete. stripes, narrower than the former, split fine line in the dark MaciCall (Late maturing commercial va- by a red middle; blue wider than red riety of upland cotton from South stripe, green; wide as the first Carolina, the staple measuring 22-25 stripe (as red) split a fine three millimeters; now obsolete. by green line; green field, times as wide as red stripe*, gray Macdonald A Highland tartan, one repeat stripe, apllt with white and edged with of which is as follows: Very wide red line on each side (this group be- green stripe, split by two pairs of red ing as wide as red stripe) ; repeat stripes, those on the outside being group described between two *, in about twice as wide as the inner ones; reversed order; large field of red (the iblack stripe, one-quarter the width of width of the two green fields and the the green; red line; dark blue stripe, gray stripe between) split by a fine the width of the green one and split white line in the center, with a nar- the same way with two pairs of red row gray stripe on each side of the stripes. white line, spaced its own width. MAC 97 MAC

Macduff A Highland tartan composed as of two red and two black narrow follows on a red ground:. 'dark blue, stripes, as above; red stripe, same as a wider black and a still wider dark first one mentioned; 'yellow and red next to each red green stripe, other*; stripe of even width; dark blue stripe, stripe (as wide as the above group), as wide as yellow and red together; split into three even parts by two red and black of even narrow black stripes; repeat group stripe width, mentioned above between two *, in as wide as dark blue; dark green, reversed order; red field, made some- twice as wide as dark blue, next to what wider than red stripe. black, with another black stripe along Maceio 1, coarse bobbin lace made of its other edge*; red stripe, one- third cotton in Brazil; 2, a variety of Bra- of which taken by a white stripe; re- zilian cotton, having a soft, pliable peat group described above between staple. two*, in reversed order. A Macewan Highland tartan, composed Macintosh A tartan with a of dark green bars on blue and black Highland red is com- and red and bright ground; the design ground split by yellow as follows: *dark blue lines. posed stripe; a narrower red stripe; green stripe, as Macfarlane A Highland tartan, composed wide as the first two combined; *red bor- as follows: 'Dark green stripe, stripe, as wide as the green, split by dered on the outer edge with a black a narrow blue line in the middle; re- and on the inner edge with a white, peat, in reversed order, group de- line; a narrower red stripe, split with scribed between two *; wide red bar. a black line; dark blue stripe, bor- dered on the outer edge with a fine Macintyre 'Highland tartan, composed as white line on the inner edge with a follows on a dark green field: Two heavier 'black stripe; narrow red wide, dark blue stripes, each split by * a red stripe, from each other stripe ; wide white stripe, split spaced with a dark green stripe; re.peat by the width of the red stripes; dark group mentioned between two*, in green bar (as wide as two dark blue reversed order; bright red field, be- stripes and space between together), ing half the width of the entire group split by a white stripe in the middle. of stripes. M ac I ver Commercial of late ma- A variety Macgillivray Highland tartan, compos- turing upland cotton from South Car- ed as follows over a red ground; wide olina, the staple measuring 22-2'5 mil- red field, split by a pair of narrow limeters; the is 30-32 cent. pale blue stripes, each edged with a yield per fine dark blue line on the outside;* Mackay

Mackinlay A Highland tartan, composed Maclean of Duart A Highland tartan * as follows: *dark green stripe, one- composed as follows: Wide, dark than third of which is occupied, in the cen- green stripe; a group (narrower green stripe), containing a fine line of ter, by a red stripe, edged with black black, white, black, yellow, a stripe lines*; wide black stripe, half of en- of black and line of pale blue *; dark tire dark blue green striipe; stripe, blue stripe, as wide as above group; three times as wide as black, split repeat, in reversed order, groups men- near each edge by a pair of narrow tioned between two *; red field (as wide black stripes; wide black stripe, as as entire complete group above) split above; repeat group described between in the center by narrow lines in pale blue with black between, placed very two ; wide black stripe, as above; close to each other. dark blue stripe (twice as wide as black stripe) split by a pair of narrow Maclennan A Highland tartan; see de- black stripes in the middle; wide black scription under Logan. stripe. Macleod A tartan, com- posed as follows: Three wide black Mackinnon as Highland tartan, composed stripes, divided by very narrow yel- follows, over a red ground; *Green low lines; wide yellow bar (somewhat red stripe; stripe, split with white and wider than former group), split in the edged with black; next to black dark center by a narrow red stripe. green stripe, twice as 'wide; red stripe, twice as wide as green; narrow green Macmillan A Highland tartan, composed and wider dark blue, next to each as follows: Wide yellow bar, split by a other, as wide together as green narrow crimson line in the center, each half stripe; narrow red stripe; wide green being split again in the cen- ter a wider crimson line. crim- stripe, somewhat wider than wide red by A son bar, as wide as the stripe; red stripe, less than half the yellow one, split near to the a width of former green stripe; group edge by yellow stripe and in the middle a of of dark blue and (of equal by pair green ifine width and placed next to each other) lines. as wide as red stripe just mentioned; Macnab A Highland tartan, composed as "group of red, black and red stripes follows: Wide red stripe, split in the half of equal width, each as wide as center by a narrow crimson stripe; of the former group; repeat, in re- crimson stripe (more than half the versed order, groups mentioned be- width of the red stripe) split by two tween two *. narrow dark stripes, and spaced their own width and placed near the edge Cloth treated with rubber; away from the rep stripe*; dark green cloth sometimes two layers of are stripe, measuring half the width of united with pressure, having a rub- 'first red one; repeat group mentioned ber layer between; used for raincoats. between two*, in reversed order. Maclachlan A Highland tartan, com- Macnaughton A Highland tartan, com- posed as follows: "'Wide rose bar, posed as follows: *Wide green stripe; split by one pair of narrow black black stripe, half of the green; dark stripes placed near one edge and blue stripe, half of the green*; red spaced evenly from each other and stripe, about two and a half times as the edge; wide black stripe, as wide wide as the green, split by a dark as former two narrow black stripes 'blue stripe (half of the green), this and two rose spaces; dark blue bar, being split again by a fine black line; about three times as wide as wide repeat group, in reversed order, men- black stripe, and split by a green tioned between the two*. In the stripe in the center; wide black filling the wide red stripe is split by stripe*: rose bar as wide as blue a solid dark blue stripe, half the width bar, and split in the center by a pair of the green. of narrow black stripes; repeat MacNeil A Highland tartan, composed as groups mentioned between two *, in reversed order. follows: Black stripe; dark blue stripe (more than twice as wide as black), Maclaine of Loehbuie A Highland tartan, split by a white stripe, which leaves on composed as follows: Two dark green each side a blue stripe equal in width of stripes, with a pale green between, to the black; black stripe; dark green equal width, and next to each other, stripe, as wide as the blue, split in the pale green being split by a yellow the center by a narrow stripe, out- line in the center; red bar of the same lined by blue, the green on each side width as combined group. is as wide as the black stripe. Maclaren A Highland tartan, composed Macnicol A Highland tartan, composed of as follows: Dark green bar, split in black and green stripes and black, the center by a narrow, yellow stripe, green and pale blue lines on a red ground. which is edged by black lines, each further a green stripe being split by Maco Variety of raw cotton from Egypt. narrow, red stripe, placed nearer to Foot Black knitted with the outer edge; black stripe about Maco hosiery, natural color cotton foot. one-eighth of green field; dark blue bar. slightly narrower than green Maco Yarn 'Made of natural colored field. Egyptian cotton. MAC MAD

Macphee A Highland tartan, composed Madagascar Lace 'Has the threads as follows over a bright red ground: twisted into loops and scallops; made Wide dark green bars with narrow by the natives of Madagascar. green line along each side (spaced its Madam 'Soft finished white shirting In these of three are own width) ; groups Turkey. from each other farther than placed Madapolam 1, originally a bleached cot- their width, each alternate red space ton fabric of East India, stout and being split by a fine white or yellow plain woven, and occasionally print- line. ed; 2, plain woven, sized cotton fab- Maopherson 'Several Highland tartans. ric, heavier than chiffon; used for The dress tartan is composed as fol- embroidery foundation in German, lows: Wide red stripe, divided into Swiss and Austrian factories, and three even parts by two narrow dark also for shirts; 3, various fine bleach- blue lines; * green stripe, as wide as ed cotton muslins in Servia. one section of the former red and a Madai Strong and silky seed hair, blue line combined; very fine yellow grown on the giant Asclepias in In- line; black stripe, as wide as a single dia. section of the red; dark blue aibout Madder A plant, called tinctor- twice as wide as the black, split in the ium, grown in Asia, the root of which center by a pair of fine black lines *; yields a rich and fast scarlet dye; red stripe, as wide as dark blue, split used formerly on cotton and wool. in the center by two fine white and Now displaced by artificial dyes. 'between these two fine black lines, Madder Bleach A name still used to de- all placed very close to each other; note the most complete form of repeat, in reversed order, group men- bleaching for cotton piece goods. The tioned between two *. goods are singed and shorn, washed, The hunting tartan is composed on boiled in lime, treated with sulphur- a gray ground: Wide bar of black, ic or muriatic acid, boiled in and on each side and in the lye edged split treated with bleaching powder. center by a group of red, blue, and Madeira Is worked red stripes, the blue being almost Embroidery upon fine cambric in sim- twice as wide as the red edges; gray eyelet patterns, ilar to the modern embroid- bar, somewhat narrower than the English black (exclusive of the edge groups), ery. Madeira Lace split by a group as above. The early specimens are coarse torchon laces; afterward bob- Macquarrie A Highland tartan "with a bin laces made in imitation of ma- red ground, composed as follows: lines and other laces. of dark Wide stripe green; red field, Madonna Fancy English alpaca cloth of a little over three times the width the nineteenth century. of near to each green stripe, split A coarse East Indian muslin. a of Madrapa edge by pair closely spaced very Madras narrow green stripes. 1, East Indian cotton, having a short but fairly strong staple of Macqueen^A Highland tartan, composed golden brown color; it contains large as follows: Wide red bar, divided into quantity of dirt; 2, a curtain mate- four even parts by three narrow black rial, the foundation being a square stripes; a black bar, considerably mesh net, the designs being formed wider than the red, split in the cen- with short colored threads run in ter by a narrow yellow stripe. parallel; 3, early in the nineteenth a dress made of mix- Macrae A Highland tartan, composed as century goods ture silk and cotton; 4, a follows: *Dark blue stripe, split in washable, lightweight cloth, made with a white the center by red line; a narrow white ground in plain weave and line, separated from the blue stripe narrow, colored warp stripes, sometimes form- by a narrow red line, is along each ing cords. made of all cot- edge; red stripe, wider than the blue, Usually ton, but is also mixed with used split in the center by a pair of close- silk; for shirts, summer dresses, etc. ly spaced green lines *; green stripe, wider than the red, divided into three Madras Gauze A very light fabric, the even parts by two narrow red lines; foundation of which is in gauze repeat, in reversed order, groups weave, the designs being formed by mentioned between two *; red field, an extra heavy weft; the floats are as wide as the two wide red and cut away; used for dresses, etc. green stripes combined, divided into Madras Goods Cotton goods made in five equal parts by four groups of India for exports; made off white closely spaced groups of three dark warp and black, blue or brown fill- blue lines each, the middle line in ing, both warp and filling being about each group being somewhat wider No. 12 yarn. than the lines on the outside and the Madras Hemp Trade name for Sunn blue groups measuring the same hemp. width as the red, between the groups. Madras Lace Black and white silk and Macrame A heavy and coarse lace made cotton bobbin lace, made in M. in Maltese patterns. 'by tying threads into intricate knots Madras Muslin Sheer cotton to form geometrical patterns; sim- fabric, made in leno weave and having an ilar to the knotted lace (see); it is extra filling of much lower count usually finished with a It is fringe. than the ground filling. This extra of Arabian origin. weft forms the figures. MAD 100 MAL

Madras Work Consists of embroidered, Malabar East Indian catton handker- bright colored madras handkerchiefs. chiefs printed in brilliant contrasting Madras! Native East African name for colors. Turkey reds. Malachra Long, fine and silky fiber of Madui Grass mat made in India. the Malachra capitata in the West Indies; used for Magnesium Chloride Used as dressing ropes. material. Malasap Coarse fiber used for cordage in the Philippines. Magnetic Pure linen cloth, made in Ger- See Malbrouk. many and Belgium and bleached in Malborough Holland. Malbrouk Obsolete French wool serge, made very smooth, with small de- Magpie Black and white patterns on signs. It had a hard twist, single veilings and laces. warp. The spacing of the warps and Magrabine Coarse, half bleached Egyp- that of the picks was about equal. tian linen cloth. Malcolm 'A Highland tartan, composed as Magruder Two commercial varieties of follows: Dark green stripe; group of early maturing American cotton, the the same width as green, composed staple measuring 25-30 millimeters; of black, pale blue, black, yellow and the yield is about 33 per cent. 'black lines of equal width; dark Maguey Very long, white and soft leaf green stripe, as above; black stripe, fiber yielded by the Agave Ameri- as wide as green; dark blue stripe more than twice as wide as cana (century plant) in the Philip- green, pines and by the aloe in Central split in the center by a pair of closely fine red America and Porto Rico; used for spaced lines; 'black stripe, as above. cordage, fishing lines, nets, etc. twilled Mahlida An East Indian cloth, made of Malefique A stout, Belgian wors- ted used for in the fine wool of the cashmere goat. fabric; bags pressing oil. Mahoe or Mahaut Soft and white fiber, yielded by the hibiscus plant in the Malella Medieval silk fabric of unknown West Indies and Central America; construction. used as substitute for hemp. Malgaran Trade name in America for Mahoitre Shoulder used under various Central Asiatic rugs of un- wadding identified Edward IV. in England. origin. A silk satin; obsolete. Maholtine Bast fiber of good quality, Malicques yielded by a species of the abutilon Malida East Indian fabric, made of plant in tropical America and India; goat's hair; the best grades contain used as substitute for jute. large proportion of the hair of the Thibet goat. Mahot Pincet Very strong bast flber, yielded by a species of the lagetta Maline Trade name for hexagonal open in South America; used for cord- mesh, plain net of silk or cotton, us- age. ually finished with size; comes in black and white; used for Mahout 1, in the Levant trade a fine trimming dresses and and light, fulled cloth, made in Eu- millinery. rope, of fine Spanish wool; 2, also a Malines^A stout, plain woven worsted coarse woolen fabric, used in Egypt of two or three-ply warp and single and Asia Minor for garments. filling of a different color. Maibafi Very thin Japanese reeled silk. Malines Lace Bobbin lace with sprigs or dots outlined with a heavier cor- Mail Cloth A highly finished silk cloth over or woven like honeycomb; used for em- donnet a hexagonal round broidery foundation. mesh ground. It is made in one piece of white flax thread. Mailles de bas Plain French serge dress Mali no leaf goods, having eight leaves and four Very long, strong fiber, the aloe in used picks in a repeat. yielded by Hawaii; for cordage. Majagua Very long bast fiber, yielded Mallius A commercial of short by the Hibiscus tiliaceus of Central variety cotton from America. Does not deteriorate in staple, prolific upland water. Louisiana. Malmal "Native East African name for Makaloa Fine with colored mats, made bleached cotton muslin. Also geometric of the gener- patterns young ic term for the finest cotton muslins leaves of a sedge, Cyperus laevigatus, in India, often embroidered in gold. in used for etc. Hawaii; garments, See also Mull. Makat Light, twilled woolen cloth, dyed Malo A very fine netted fabric in Ha- in made in France for light colors, made of olona and used Turkish blankets. waii, fiber, for loin cloth by the natives. Often Makatlik Turkish name for Oriental feathers are sewed to it. runners; used as divan covers. Malta Jute Coarse, East Indian vege- Make Same as the construction of the table fiber. fabric. ^Heavy bobbin lace show- Makko-jumel Raw cotton first among- ing and geometric designs those cultivated in Egypt. Now en- without any ground, made of white tirely superseded by other varieties. or black flax or silk thread. MAM MAR

Mamaki Fibers yielded b ythe Pipturus Mantel Grijn Cross ribbed Dutch cam- albidus in Hawaii; used for coarse let, made with two-ply goats' hair cords and ropes. warp and worsted filling, having warp Mammoth Two commercial varieties of ribs. late maturing upland cotton from Mantelle A medieval English worsted. Georgia, the staple measuring 28-30 Manto Plain black shawl, worn by Chil- millimeters ;t'he yield is over 30 per ean women; usually made of wool or cent. mixed with cotton. cali- Mamoudie 1, various East Indian Mantua Black and colored silk fabrics, coes; 2, natural colored, closely wo- originally from M., Italy; now ob- ven cambric from the Levant. solete. Mamoudis Very soft, fine, yellowish lin- Maolao su Chiyong Scarlet red Chinese en, originally from Persia. silk velvet. Manchester Cottons 1, originally woolen Map Mounts Inferior, sheer and plain fabrics made formerly in England, woven cotton muslins in England; measuring 22 yards in length, three- used for mounting maps. in width, and weighing quarter yard Marabout 1, white silk thread used for at 2, at the present 30 pounds least; crepe, made of three strands twist- of cotton fabrics made a great variety ed together very hard, and dyed in at Manchester, England. the gum; 2, a very light silk dress Manchester Velvet All-cotton velvet fabric, or ribbon, similar to the crepe made in England with plain weave in appearance, woven of marabout back. yarn in plain weave; 3, five or eight- Manchu Crepe Cotton or silk crepe, leaf, silk satin; used for millinery. made with very fine warp stripes of It is made with single warp. colored silk thread. Maracapas A Philippine fiber; used for Mandarine French fabric, woven with ropes. cotton warp and silk filling. Maragnan Formerly the best grade of Mandrenaque Cloth from the Philip- raw cotton grown in the West In- pines made of cotton warp and palm dies; now less known. fiber filling. Maranham Raw cotton from Brazil with Mandypyta Raw cotton from Para- glossy, yellowish and strong staple, guay, yields a reddish brown staple; sometimes quite dirty. used for ponchos. Maranta Tropical American plant, yield- Mandyu Native name of three kinds of ing leaf fibers used for mats. raw cotton in Paraguay, yielding Maratarong^Philippino name for a white staple. coarse fiber used for cordage. Manganous Chloride Used as fixing and Marble Cloth Book cloth, made of cot- printing agent. ton, usually paper lined. Mangled Hessian >A smoother and more Marble Silk Medieval silk fabric, wov- glazed burlay (see) than the ordin- en with various colored wefts in a ary. marble effect. Manila Hemp Very light, tenacious and Marbled Cloth A silk and wool dress lustrous fiber, yielded by the Musa goods in England, woven with a. mot- textilis in the Philippine Islands; tled face in various colors, produced used for ropes and for the finest .by multi-colored weft. sheer fabrics. Marbre A medieval French worsted, The principal classes are current, woven to imitate the veins of the fair current and brown. The old pri- marble. vate as daet, etc., have marks, UK, Marbrinus Worsted fabric, woven of the set of been replaced by following different colored made law; yarns, imitating the standard, compulsory by veins of the marble; used for church Fair, medium, coarse and coarse vestments and often embroidered in brown. The fiber is also called very England; obsolete. short (less than 4 feet), short (4 to 5 feet), normal (5 to 8 feet), long Marceline A plain woven silk fabric, (over 8 feet). woven with single warp and with one or more picks in one shed; also and often knot- Manillese^Embroidered a plain woven, lustrous French silk ted made of fibers drawnwork agave dress goods, made with two-ply warp in the Islands. Philippine and single filling. Manipulated Goods Those containing Marcella A fine cotton pique; used for substitutes. bedding in England. Manirito A useful fiber, yielded by the Marchey East Indian calico of fancy bark of a species of the sour-sop in colored checks and Venezuela. stripes. Marduff Native name in East Africa for in Central term for Manta 1, America, stout, twilled gray cotton fabrics; in gray cotton sheetings; 2, Colombia, used for tents, sails and native various kinds of cheap cotton fabrics dresses. or plain woven goods. Marengo Obsolete, French pulled wool- Manta Blanca Bleached cotton sheeting en cloth, made Mack, slightly shot in Mexico. with white. It is made in plain or Manta Triquena Unbleached cotton twill weave and is used for over- sheeting in Mexico. coats. MAR 102 MAT

Margherita Italian embroidered, ma- Marseilles Work. Consisted originally of chine-made net. outlining flowers and other ornaments Marguerites-Obsolete French dress goods with stitches over a previously padded made of wool, silk and linen; not linen or canvas ground. fulled. It was woven with a high Marsella Heavy, bleached, twilled linen, warp. given a soft finish. Marie Antoinette Curtain, having ap- Marston Commercial variety of late ma- plique sprays, flowers and leaves of turing cotton from Louisiana, the sta- cord and tape. ple measuring up to 30 millimeters; Marine Fiber iPoseidonia Australia, ob- the yield is 30-31 per cent. tained from the bottom of the gulf in Martin Commercial variety of late ma- South Australia. The fiber is not turing, prolific cotton from Louisiana, very strong and is brittle when dry. the staple measuring 26-30 milli- It is believed to be New Zealand flax meters; the yield is 30 per cent. submerged and rotted in salt water. Martiniques An 18th century woolen fab- It has for basic good affinity dye- ric in England. stuffs, but acid, salt and sulphur dyes Masalia cotton produce little result. This fiber has 'Lightweight fabric, wov- en in a 'been discovered only lately and was twill, producing moire effect. experimented with as wool substitute It is given a smooth, glossy finish. for cheap clothing and rugs but no Mascades Silk cloth, used in Latin- eatisfactory result was obtained. America as head cover. Marine Stripes Good quality English cal- Mascaret Loosely woven, high finisJied ico shirting of equal stripes in blue worsted satin with woven figures. and white. M ash ru 'Fabric made of mixture of wool Market Bleach Trade term for bleached and cotton in India, for the use of cotton fabrics which are usually orthodox Mohammedans. starched and calendered. Maskati 'Native East African name for Marking Cotton Cotton thread, usually fancy woven cotton fabrics; used for dyed blue or red; used to embroider turbans, loin cloths, etc. the outlines of a pattern. Maskel >A l'5th century lace in England, Marl or in Single two-;ply yarn Eng- made with spots. land, used for filling; It is made in two Masloff 'Wide, Russian woolen colored effect, usually one color twist- stout, ed around the other. dress goods. Massiru 'Plain East Indian Maryborough Obsolete English twilled woven, light silk used for woolen, the warp and weft being of cloth; garments. different colors; the cloth is finished Mastic Cloth 'Embroidery canvas woven with a high gloss. in alternate wide stripes of basket weave in cotton and waste silk satin. Marli 1, obsolete French gauze of vari- ous construction, made with large Mastodon Commercial variety of short mesh; used for curtains and stiffen- staple upland cotton from Mississippi; ers; 2, obsolete French bobbin lace, now obsolete. made with over point d'esprit patterns Masulipatam Inferior knotted rugs made a net ground. in India. Marli French silk gauze, d'Angleterre Mat in made of old in- made with two sets of warp; obso- 1, nautics, ropes, terwoven and beaten flat; 2, in hand lete. made laces the closely filled part of Marmato A medieval silk and bro- gold the pattern. cade; said to be identical with ar- ramas. Mat Braid Heavy, pleated worsted braid; used for binding. Marocs French woolen eerge, of various qualities, made with a nap on the Mat Weave 'See Basket weave, or hop- face. sack weave. Marquise Finish High gloss imparted to Mata 'Plain woven gray cotton shirting fine cotton satins. in Central Asia; used for shirts and Marquisette A very light and sheer, leno drawers; made 11 inches wide. woven cotton or silk fabric with an Matabie General term in East India for open mesh. all fabrics having woven or printed Marry- A coarse fabric worn by the gold or silver patterns. medieval common people in England. Matapalo Fibrous bark, yielded by a spe- Marseilles A stiff, double faced, quilted cies of fig tree in Peru; used for gar- white cotton cloth, similar to pique, ments by the Indians. in weave with large em- made plain Process in wool sorting; con- bossed used for shirt bos- Matching patterns; sists in grouping the parts of corre- men's women's dresses, oms, vests, sponding quality from various fleeces. bed covers, etc. The different sorts of wool Marseilles Quilt Is a double cotton cloth, Matchings into which the fleece is divided in wool composed of two plain woven fabrics, one warp being the stitching warp sorting. and one weft a heavy wadding filling. Matelasse Originally a padded silk mate- The figures are embossed, formed by rial, the ornamentation produced by Interweaving all threads with each quilting in the loom; Jacquard figured other, but the two fabrics are not fabrics made with mohair or silk fill- united at the ground. ing or warp woven with floats. MAT 103 MEN

Material-General name for light and nar- Mayo Name for a twill, producing short, row denim, and cottonades in the zigzag figures in alternate colors. Balkan States. Mazamet A sort of French melton. Matheson A Highland tartan, composed Mazarine Obsolete woolen fabric, dyed as follows: Wide red in the field, split dark blue; used in France and center a of five dark Eng- by group green land for magistrates' robes. stripes, of which the middle one is M much heavier, each pair on the side bocaya 'Long, durable and strong leaf the being fine lines; *dark blue stripe fiber, yielded by Cocos sclero- carpa in South used for about one-eighth of the red field; dark America; nets and other fabrics green stripe (as wide as the blue) split by the natives. in the center by a pair of narrow red Mecca Rug iSee Shiraz. lines; red stripe, somewhat narrower Mechlin Lace 'Same as Malines lace. than the blue; two narrow green and red lines alternating; dark blue Mechlinet .Now obsolete, fine English stripe, as above*; dark green stripe, waistcoating made of cotton and lin- twice as wide as the blue, divided into en. three equally wide parts by two nar- Mecklenburgh 1, 18th century woolen row red lines; repeat in reversed or- fabric in England, sometimes made der, described between two*. group with silk flowered patterns; 2, stout Matka East Indian made of fabric, spun English wool damask. The ground is silk. of colored hard twist warp stripes Matrimonio Soft finish, bleached cotton with colored flower patterns. bed in 52 sheeting Venezuela; about Mecomba ^Native East African inches wide. name for the cloth-like bast, obtained from the Matta Short staple cotton grown on the (Brachystegia tree; used by the na- lowlands around Pernambuco, Brazil. tives for clothing. Matthews Commercial of variety very Medicis 'French bobbin lace, similar to prolific, long staple, early maturing the Cluny. American cotton; the staple meas- Cloth uring 35-40 millimeters; the yield is Medium 'English woolen dress 29 per cent and above. goods, in quality between the fine Spanish stripes and the broad cloth. Matting Oxford Trade name for oxford shirting (see) made in mat weaves. Medley Cloth A mixture cloth, dyed in the Mattis 'Late maturing commercial va- wool, originated in the early part of the 17th in riety of American cotton, the staple century England. measuring 25-30 millimeters; the yield Meermaid's Lace See Venise point. of lint is 30-32 cent. per Megila 'Indian name for jute cloth. Maubois 'French droguet made of silk. Meherjun Coarse wool. Maud Scotch wool plaid in natural gray stripes. Mekla Coarse cotton fabric in India; used for skirts the native women. Mausari Thin, open face but coarse cot- by ton fabrics, made in India; used for Melange 1, French for mixture effect; 2, mosquito netting. Generally made in yarn spun from printed top; 3, color check pattern. effect on fabrics woven from such Mauritius Hemp Trade name for the yarns. strong leaf fiber, yielded by the Fur- Meles Rugs 'Small, coarse, all-wool craea gigantea in 'Mauritius; used for rugs made in Asia 'Minor; the loose cordage, gunny bags; similar to sisal. and short pile is tied in Ghiordes knot. bright blues and Maurvi Very strong thread made of a Very reds, yellows are usually used in a of species of hemp in India. great variety designs. The sides and ends are fin- violet Mauveine A bright, but fugitive ished with a selvage and there is a dye, derived from the -coal tar, the fringe at the ends. ifirst of this kind discovered by Wm. Henry Perkin in 1856. Melimeli Native East African name for a thin bleached cotton muslin. Mawata Waste silk of in duppious Melis iFrench sailcloth. Japan. hemp Melton Fabric made of all-wool or cot- Maxey 'Commercial variety of prolific ton warp and woolen weft; the face American cotton, the staple measur- is napped carefully, raisins the ing 30-35 millimeters; the yield is nap which is shorn to show the 30-32 per cent. Also called Meyers straight, Texas. weave clearly; used for ouits, coats. French woolen dress ob- Maxwell A Highland tartan, as Memphis goods; composed solete. follows: A wide green stripe, split by a red stripe in the center; on each Mende 'Fine, smooth French serges of side of green stripe, and separated various grades; used for lining. from it by a red stripe is a black Mending One of the finishing processes stripe, about one-fifth the width of in cloth manufacturing. It consists the green stripe; a red field (as wide of repairing the broken places in the as the group measured between the cloth (after it was taken from the outer edges of the two black stripes), loom) with the yarn woven. split in the center a of nar- by pair Mending 'Coarse and heavy, row green lines. Bagging plain woven jute cloth; used for Mayenne A fine, bleached French linen. mending torn cotton bales. MEN 104 MIG

Mending Cotton A two strand, soft spun Mesh The open spaces in nets, knitting, thread, made of combed cotton; used crocheting and lace. for hosiery. mending Meshhed Rugs Medium and large sized Menin Lace 'Bobbin lace, similar to the all-wool Persian rugs with medium Valenciennes (see) with the threads long pile tied in Ghiordes knot. The of the mesh ground twisted three and design has usually very large palm a half times. leaves placed diagonally and also ani- mal forms. blue and red are Menouffieh Variety of Egyptian cotton, Deep the characteristic colors. having a good, silky staple. Meshi 'In the Bible means silk. Menzies A Highland tartan, composed as follows: Wide red field; "two white Messaline 'Fine, supple silk dress goods stripes with a narrower red between, made with fine silk filling in satin the group being about one- third the weave. width of the red field; red as stripe, Messel An English woolen fabric wide as a white and the red stripe lawny of unknown structure; used in the in the group*; together previous 17th century. 'White stripe (as wide as the just mentioned red stripe and the group Mestiza 'South American name for a together) split near each end by a merino wool, yielded by the cross of narrow red line; repeat, in reversed pure merino and the native creola order, the stripes mentioned between sheep. the two *. Metl 'Native name in Yucatan for the Meraline 'Narrow-striped, all-wool dress agave fibers. goods in England. Mexicaine 'French silk dress goods and Mercerized Cotton Cotton fiber, made ribbon made with narrow stripes and lustrous by treating it with caustic small figures on a taffeta founda- soda at normal temperature and un- tion. Mer- der tension to prevent shrinking. Mexicans A variety of gray English cot- cerized cotton has stronger affinity ton goods, made for export; woven for dyes. with well sized, coarse warp and me- Mercerized Wool 'Wool is treated for a dium fine filling, containing about 72 brief period at a low temperature in threads each way. an 80 degree Tw. solution of caustic Mexican Embroidery (Made with ingrain the soda; this gives a high lustre to cotton, silk or wool on muslin, cam- the fiber wool and strengthens it, but bric or linen; used for dresses, tow- felted after. cannot be els, etc. Usually only outlines of the Mercerization Process by which cotton patterns are embroidered. yarn or cloth is given a silky lustre by Mexican Grass Same as sisal hemp (see). it under tension in solution treating Commercial of of caustic soda. If the cloth or yarn Meyers Texas variety cotton, the staple is not under tension, it does not take prolific upland 30-95 millimeters; the yield a lustre but shrinks and becomes measuring 31 cent. Also called thicker and stronger. This is used is per Maxey. to produce crepe effect in union cloths. Mezeline Light weight, inferior French also mercerized in Cotton cloth is brocatelle, made of all-cotton or cot- or thus stripes patterns by printing, ton and wool, with patterns of small producing crimp effect. checks, or large, colored flowers; used Merezhiki All-white hand embroidery for bed covers; obsolete. over linen, made by the peasants in 'Raw silk from Sicily. Ukraina, Russia. Mezzettta from Mhabrum Thin, loosely woven, twilled Merino i r breed of sheep, originally cotton fabric made in Asia Minor; Spain, yielding the finest wool; 2, a for fine and na.rrow cotton fabric, used used garments. for dresses in the Philippines; 3, a Midani iSilk warp faced fabric with cot- French shawl made with two-ply ton filling, having narrow colored merino wool warp and wool or silk stripes divided by narrow white mix- filling; 4, knit goods made of stripes; made in Asia Minor. ture of cotton and wool; 5, a woolen Mi-fils The finest and thinnest French in of shoddy, fabric, made England cambric. obtained from soft woolen or worsted silk lin- dress goods; 6, a twilled English Mi-florence 'Light, plain woven worsted fabric, made of very fine ing, finished with a high gloss. either face and single merino yarn, Mi- torse Malf twisted French embroid- or with twilled face and back alike ery silk. plain back. Full cotton grade. See Cotton. Merinos Damasse A French Jacquard Middling See dress goods, made of merino wool; Middling Fair Full cotton grade. obsolete. Cotton. work narrow Merletto Italian for lace. Mignardise Crochet using braid to form the body of the pat- Merveilleux 1, diagonal silk lining, given tern. a lustrous finish; 2, a very fine and cotton netting; used heavy silk satin, with a twilled back. Mignonette 1, plain for curtains; 2, French calico with Meseritsky Wide, stout, Russian woolen dress goods; exported to China. small pattern. MIG 105 MOC

Mignonette Lace Narrow bobbin lace of Mirecourt Lace Originally a French bob- lightweight made in the 16th century bin lace, similar to Lille (see), lately and 17th century of white flax thread; bobbin made sprigs are appliqued on used for headdress. The mignonette -machine net ground. pattern is very small and delicate. Mirganji Indian jute of a fairly strong In Migot France a sort of Spanish wool. but harsh fiber. Mikado A fine and all-silk taffeta light Mi roil French for the gloss given the in England. fabrics in the finish. Milan Braid A corded flat mohair braid; Mirror Velvet Has the silk used for trimming. long pile pressed down in different directions. Milan Point Originally plaited gold and silver lace and reticella. Later fine Mirzapur Knotted wool rugs, made in needle-point laces, made with scroll India. The design is usually floral designs, large flat flowers in cloth in cream and deep red colors. stitch. At the present a machine made Mispick A flaw in the texture of the the lace, design outlined with silk. cloth, consisting of irregular cross- Milanaise In France a silk yarn with a ings of the warp and filling; caused cotton core. "by the imperfect shed in the loom. Milanese Knitted fabric with very fine Mistral (Plain woven, sheer worsted dress gauge, with almost equal elasticity goods woven with nub yarns. both ways. It is a warp knitted fab- Mitafifi ric made with flat bearded needles Variety of Egyptian cotton, hav- a and thread laying attachment; uee3 ing fine, long, strong staple of dark for underwear. brown color; extensively cultivated. Milanese Lace An embroidered drawn Mitcheline Quilt with of 'fiber of one many narrow black and white stripes; being only color; 2, also a modern cotton and silk dress fabric woven of such yarn. goods with numerous, very narrow Mixture Crepe (Made of silk warp and stripes. hard spun cotton filling; used for Milled 'Same as fulled or felted. dresses, waists, etc. Miltons Thick and well fulled woolen Mock Leno Light cotton, linen or silk suiting; used for hunting garments in fabric, made all white, or with colored England; came usually in brown, red stripes. In the weave regular open and blue colors. warp stripes are formed by the inter- Mina Cloth Stout twilled cloth of wool lacing of groups of closely placed and weft without be- and cotton, warp threads, ins deflected from their relative par- Minas Geraes Variety of raw cotton from allel position. The groups are sepa- Brazil. rated from each other by a certain Mineiro Sort of raw cotton from Brazil. distance. It is similar in effect to Miniature .French silk dress goods, hav- the leno (see). ing small flowers formed by floating Mock Quilting English cotton cloth, sim- filling threads; obsolete. ilar to pique but not as closely woven. Minikin Bay^A 17th century coarse Eng- Mock Satin Strong, stiff weft faced wool lish worsted cloth. satin with flower patterns woven into. Minorca silk and linen Twilled, cloth; Mock Seam Hosiery in England, the leg obsolete. of which is cut and the foot fashioned. Minpow Generic term in the Canton Mock Twist A fancy single yarn; used market for a variety of cotton goods, for dress goods, similar to the double mostly imported. and twist (see) but the two colors Minter 'Late maturing commercial vari- are not outlined as sharply and reg- of ety prolific upland cotton, the staple ularly. It is produced by intermit- measuring 22-25 millimeters; the tent feeding of dyed and undyed stock yield is 30-32 per cent. in the spinning frame. MOC 106 MON

Mock Velvet Obsolete English napped Moire a Pois 'Moire silk fabric, woven woolens. with small satin dots on the face. Mockado or Mokario Fabrics used for Moire Poplin Is a poplin dress fabric, ciothing in the 16th and 17th centuries made of wool and given a moire fin- in England. 1, one was a woolen fab- ish. ric, often mixed with silk, heavily Moire Ronde The designs are like the napped and woven with figures; 2, rings of a tre, all similar to each another solid colored napped woolen other; also called moire francaise. fabric also called mock velvet. was Moirette Plain woven cotton fabric, made Modena 'Light weight dress goods from of fine warp and thicker polished fill- Italy, made of mixture of silk waste, ing, finished in a moire effect by cotton and wool. pressing. Moderne Thin French cloth made of mix- Moiting Process which consists of pick- ture of waste silk with cotton or ing out all sticks, leaves, etc., from wool. the wool fleece in the sorting. Modes In bobbin and needle-point laces Mojo Very tough, durable bast fiber of various stitches which fill out the pat- good elasticity, yielded by the m. tree terns. Also called fillings, jours and in Honduras; used for ropes. lead work. Mokho Raw cotton grown in Senegam- Modica Raw silk from Sicily bia. The staple is fine, silky and Moff A silk cloth from South Russia. white. Mohair Very long, straight, fine and lus- Molaine In England various fabrics, trous white hair, yielded by the ajir made of cotton warp and wool fill- gora goat in Asia Minor, the Cape ing. Colony and the United States. It Moleskin A very strong, stout, smooth --has no felting properties; used for colon fabric, made with one set of dress goods, , lining, braids, warp and two sets of filling, of the etc. 2, lightweight, plain or twilled same yarn, spun two picks on the glossy and smooth dress fabric, made face and one pick on the back, the with silk wool or cotton warp and former combined with alternate warp mohair filling, forming little patterns. ends, forming a modified satin weave. It is dyed in the piece, although the The back filling is combined with warp is often dyed before the weav- every warp end forming a three-end ing. weft twill. It is used for working Mohair Braid Black or colored braid in men's clothes. made of two cords woven England; Molinos -1, in Austria a plain woven cot- together. ton fabric, made of medium fine yarn; Mohwal 'Bast fiber of the Bauhinia vahlii it is often printed and is used for in India; used for ropes. shirts, etc.; 2, variety of Mexican raw Moina Commercial variety of a prolific cotton, has a yellowish, glossy staple. upland cotton, having fine, long staple; Mollet In France, a very narrow fringe is somewhat obsolete. of silk or gold. Moire The "watered" effect given in the Molieton French for melton. but finishing process to mostly silk Black dyed dress goods of also cotton and wool fabric. This cotton or silk warp and wool filling. effect is produced in various ways; It is similar to .crepe. 1, see moire antique; 2, the fabric is passed between engraved cylinders Momme Japanese weight, equal to 3.75 the which press the moire design into grams, used to measure and express face. This moire is not as lasting as the weight of silk fabrics. the first one. Ribbed fabrics are bet- ter adapted for both these moire ef- Moncahiard, Mocayar -Plain or twilled fects, although many smooth fabrics, French fabric of silk warp and woolen like taffeta, are treated this way. filling. It is made mostly black. (Besides these moire effect is pro- Mon-Chirimen A fine silk duced the the vari- very Japanese by printing fabric, of used for em- ous colors each other; crepe high lustre, overlapping broideries. moire effects are also obtained by cer- tain weaves. Money Bush 'Commercial variety of up- Moire Anglaise 'Same as moire antique. land cotton from Mississippi, yield- ing a medium long staple; somewhat Moire Antique To produce this finish the fabric is folded lengthwise with face obsolete. in, the selvages coverine a"h oth >r Monks' Cloth Medieval English worsted, fabric Is and stitched together. The the piece measuring 12 yards by 45 then dampened and passed between 1 inches. hot cylinders. This moire is lasting and shows the greatest variety of de- Montagnac A soft and bulky twilled signs. woolen overcoating, the warp is en- Moire Francaise Moire made in stripes. tirely hidden by the filling. An extra Another variety called moire ronde. set of effect filling, made of very woolen floats on the Moire Imperial All-over watered effect slack twist yarn, of undistinct design. face, and is napped and made into tufts or curls in the finish. Real m Moire Metallique A frosted watered ef- of cashmere wool. fect on silks. is made WON 107 MOS

Montbeliard Stout French ticking, made Moreen 1, originally a Dutch, all-worsted, with blue and white checks or cross cross ribbed camlet, with a moire fin- stripes. ish; 2, a plain woven stout fabric, made in England, one side ribbed and Montcayer Fine French dress goods, watered and the other smooth mostly in black, made of silk warp made with a finish. It is of hard and two or three-ply worsted in plain high made or twilled weave. spun worsted, but also of cotton, in the latter case the filling being polish- Monteiths English cotton handkerchiefs ed yarn. Used for skirts (formerly) with white dots over a colored foun- and for upholstery. dation. Morees 'English cotton muslin for the Montichicour An East Indian fabric African trade. made of silk and cotton. Morenos In South America several Montserrat Variety of raw cotton from grades of unbleached linen, im- East India. ported from France. Monzome Shusu Japanese silk satin, Name for designs made in a with woven stripes. mixture of two colors in Brussels or Moon Commercial variety of American Wilton rugs. cotton, in medium time, the maturing Morfil tStout, twilled, Belgian worsted lustrous and strong staple measuring fabric used for bags for pressing oil. 30-35 millimeters; the is 31-33 yield Moriche and durable leaf per cent. Very tough fiber yielded by the Ita palm in Vene- Moonga 'Species of brown colored wild zuela; used for cordage. silk the Antheraea in As- yielded by Morris woven modern Eng- sam and East India. See Muga. Rug Closely lish rugs, dyed with vegetable dyes Moorish drawn work of antique Lace-^-A and having simple floral, usually origin, still made in Morocco. acanthus designs. Named after Wil- Moorva Long and very strong leaf fiber; liam -Morris, its originator. yielded bv the sansevieria in plant Morrison A tartan composed India; used for ropes, nets, etc. Highland of green, black and blue stripes and term for Brussels Moquette Formerly white and yellow stripes over a red a similar carpet; now sigrvirfies plush ground. to Utrecht velvet, woven in two lay- Name in for wool ers, face to face, the pile warp pass- Mortling England ine from the lower to the upper cloth taken from dead sheep. and vice versa; after weaving the Mosaic Canvas Very fine embroidery pile is cut in the middle between the canvas, made of silk or cotton. and two grounds. Used for carpets Mosaic Lace 'Modern Venetian bobbin rugs. lace, the patterns being composed of Moqui Cotton cultivated by the Moqui many small sprigs and medallions Indians in Arizona, U. S. A. The applied to a net ground. staple is short, coarse and of green- Mosaic Rug A cut pile rug, made in Eng- ish polor. land, the pile of which is glued in Moqui Blanket Plain woven, all-wool colored pattern to a canvas founda- bla"kts made by *he Moaui Indians tion, instead of woven to it. in the U. S. A. The design consists 1, woolen dress goods with mostly of black, blue and brown Mosambique the nap raised in squares, dots or oth- stripes. er 'figures; 2, a light, sheer French Mora Hair Curly fibers yielded by the fabric, made with yarn dyed cotton pt^ro of the Southern moss, in the warp and mohair filling; comes in Gulf states and Centra/1 and South stripes and checks. for America; used stuffing. Moscovite A dress silk, woven with or- Moravian English sewing cotton of 8 ganzine warp and cotton filling, form- strands. ing ribs; comes mostly in light col- ors. Mordants Variety of chemicals (salts) which when united with certain dyes Moscow 'Heavy, shaggy woolen overcoat- attach these to the fabric in shape ing. of insroluble colors, mostly lakes. Moscow Canvas Made in fancy patterns Mordanting The process of impregnating with gold, silver, blue and black textiles with some mordant, not dye- threads interwoven, resembling stuffs themselves but usually salts, plaited straw. Used for embroidery. which will fasten the dye applied Mosquito Bar Similar to mosquito net- after. ting, having several warp and weft Morea Variety of raw cotton from threads placed closer to each other at Greece. regular intervals. Moreas Fancy striped satin of cotton Mosquito Netting An open face, very warp and silk filling, finished with light cotton fabric, woven in gauze high gloss. weave, dyed in solid colors. MOS 108 MUN

Moss Yarn Coarse woolen of yarn fuzzy Mousseline de Laine Plain woven, soft, or nubbed surface, used for embroid- light and open fabric, made of fine eries. gassed worsted yarn, often mixed with cotton. Mosses Large hanks of reeled silk, weighing about one pound each, pro- Mousseline de Soie A plain and open duced by the natives of China in the weave fine and light fabric, made of home industries. silk. Mossing In England same as napping. Moustiquaire Very light, transparent East Indian silk made either Mosul Embroidery The Oriental patterns gauze, plain, or are filled closely with herringbone striped, figured. stitch and are heavily outlined. Mucuna Strong leaf fiber, yielded by the Mosul Rugs Made in (Mesopotamia, Mucuna urens in Brazil; used for usually all wool, but warp and weft ropes. are, sometimes, of cotton and the Muddai Very strong, silky fiber, yielded soft, silky pile of goat's or camel's by a species of asclepias in India; hair, tied in Ghiordes knot. Yellow used for ropes. It is mixed with cot- and brown colors are often used. The ton when spun; has good affinity for design consists of various geometrical dyes. patterns and several border stripes. Mudj Matting made of Buffalo grass in The ends are finished with a narrow India. web or fringe. Muga 1, species of brown wild silk, yield- Mota Thick cotton cloth made in India. ed by the Antheraea in Assam; 2, stout, coarse silk fabric, made in In- Motchenetz Trade term for Russian, dia. water retted flax. Muka 'Native name for the fiber yielded Motes Very small pieces of seed or by the New Zealand flax. imall immature seeds found in al- Mukharech Short cotton most a staple raised in any ginned cotton, large the interior of Mesopotamia. quantity of which detracts from the value of the fiber. Mule Twist The finest cotton yarns, spun on the mule. Motia Coarse and heavy cotton cloth Mull Plain woven, very soft, sheer and woven with various patterns in India, light silk or cotton dress goods; used for winter the clothing by poorer comes in white or colors. Starched classes. mull is made of coarse cotton, stiffen- Motif Same as pattern or design on tex- ed with size and used for underlining, etc. tiles. millinery, Mull Muslin A fine, undressed white Motlado A medieval English mixture muslin; used for dresses. worsted. Mulmul woven East Indian medieval mixture Closely cot- Motley 1, English ton muslin; see Mull. worsted, 7 yards long and 45 inches wide: 2. same as mixture. Mulmulkha The finest kind of Dacca Tnuslin. Motril Variety of raw cotton from Spain. It has a white to reddish yellow, lus- Obsolete French term for trous, strong fiber. lawn and batiste. Moule Soft, thick but light woolen over- Multan Knotted rugs made in India. coating, made in France. They have geometrical designs in blues and reds. Moulinage French for silk reeling. deep Multi bolus Commercial of Mou I Inee French for ply yarns, made of variety Amer- variously colored strands; used espe- ican cotton, of Mexican origin; now obsolete. cially for dress goods and suitings. Mountain Flax Another name for asbes- Multiflora Commercial variety of early tos. ripening upland cotton from Alabama, the medium long staple clus- Irish forming Mountmellick Embroidery Raised ters of bolls. embroidery, executed on a heavy, firm fabric with a number of heavy, Mummy Canvas Stout, closely woven fancy stitches. The designs are in linen canvas of .brownish color. natural or conventionalized flowers, Mummy Cloth 1, a fine, closely woven, leaves and also scrolls. plain linen fabric, used in ancient Mourat Fine, brown colored wool from Egypt for wrapping mummies. The the Shetland Isles. best examples have a double warp and single filling and two or three A light, plain woven, Mourning Crepe times as many warp ends than picks silk crepe dyed black and made crisp in a square inch; 2, with unbleached, plain gum. woven, heavy linen or cotton fabric, Mousquet 'Fine woolen rugs of very close used for embroidery ground; 3, a texture and brilliantly colored designs crinkled lustreless black cloth, made fro-m Asia Minor. with cotton warp and wool filling; also called momie cloth. Mousseline Very light, plain woven, sheer fabric, made of cotton, wool or Mungo Wool obtained from felted rags silk; used for dresses, etc. by tearing them up. MUN 109 NAG

Munj 'Strong and elastic fiber which Mushy Dry, fuzzy wool, yielding large stands water well; is yielded by a percentage of noil in combing. of the cane in India; species sugar Muslin 1, plain woven, bleached or gray, used for baskets. ropes, mats, and soft finished cotton fabric in a great Munroe A Highland tartan, composed as variety, ranging from the finest Dacca follows: Wide red stripe, split near muslin to coarse fabrics; used for each edge by a tine blue and yellow dresses, aprons, sheets, shirts, the lat- line, the two lines placed next to each ter often having warp stripes; 2, a other, the blue being on the outside; very light, loose, plain woven cotton *green stripe, half the width of the fabric, considerably stiffened in the red; red stripe, half the width of the finish; used for foundations in green, split in the center by a narrow dresses. blue and yellow line, placed next to Musi metCoarse cotton muslin, usually each other; dark blue stripe, half sized. the width of the green; *red tield, one and one half times wider than the Muslinette In England a thick variety of used for dresses. first red stripe mentioned, split near muslin; to each edge by a narrow yellow and Musselburgh Stuff Narrow and coarse tolue line (placed next to each o-ther Scotch woolen of the 18th century. with the line on the yellow outside) Mustabet Very rich and expensive fab- and in the center three split by green ric of the Middle Ages; texture un- stripes, spaced from each other by known. their own width; repeat, in reversed order, groups mentioned between the Mustardevelin A napped woolen fabric, two (*). made in gray mixture, used in the 15th and 16th centuries in Native of England. Murga name the Indian bow Also called mustardevilliers. string hemp. Musulmane French silk dress goods, Native Indian name for the Murgavi originated in the 18th century; often Moorva (see). brocaded with gold or silver; obsolete. Murray of Athole A Highland .tartan, Myoto Pine Japanese woolen rugs. composed as follows: Green stripe, split by a red line in the center; Mysore Inferior East Indian knotted black stripe, half the width of the rugs. green; dark blue stripe, a little wider Mysore Silk Soft, fine, undressed East than green one, split in the center by Indian silk dress goods, made a red stripe, outlined with a fine plain, dyed or printed, in floral black line; black as mostly pat- stripe, above; terns. green stripe, split by red, as above; black stripe, as albove; dark blue stripe, twice as wide as the black, split near each edge by a pair of nar- row black stripes, spaced from the edge and from each other their own width. N Murray of Tulllbardine A Highland tar- tan, composed as follows: Red stripe; group (twice as wide as red Nabo Native name of the stripe), consisting of fine blue line, strong fiber, the Nauolea in the fine red line, black stripe, fine red line, yielded by Philip- used for fine blue line, red stripe, blue stripe, pines; cords, ropes. red fine blue fine red stripe, line, line, Naboika 'Russian homespun linen, print- blue stripe (narrow), fine red line, ed with fast colors by means of wood- fine blue red line, stripe, blue stripe, en .blocks; used for clothes, religious red fine stripe, blue line, fine red line, vestments, covers, etc. folack stripe, fine red line, fine blue line; red stripe, as the first one; Nac or Nachiz Medieval silk brocade of *dark blue stripe, little less than half Oriental origin. the width of the red; red stripe, as Nacarat 1, orange red colored fine linen wide as the blue, split by a fine green in Latin-America; 2, in Portugal a line near the edge next to the blue; fine crepe or muslin, dyed in flesh col- green stripe, half the width of the or, which is used by women as rouge. first wide red*; red stripe, almost twice as wide as the green, split by Nacre 1, iridescent, changeable effect; 2, two blue and a narrower black stripe; silk fabrics woven in colors produc- repeat, in reversed order, stripes men- ing effects similar to the mother-of- tioned between the two (*). pearl. Mururuni Leaf fiber, yielded by a palm Nae Hawaiian name for a netting, hav- in Brazil; used for hats, baskets, etc. ing a very fine and close mesh; used for garments. Mushaddah Coarse cotton fabric; used as loin cloth, etc., in Abyssinia. It is Nagapore Bright colored, light and soft made on hand looms in Hodeida. silk fabric, made in India. Mushroo An Bast Indian cotton back Nago Nodzi Navajo blanket made with silk satin, figured with white or gold black and white stripes running weft- flowers, some having wavy stripes of wise, occasionally with a little red; yellow and gojd. has red tassels at the corners. NAI HO NAT

Nainsook-s-PIain and open woven, light, Napery Table and household linen. white, cotton fabric; used for under- wear, dresses, etc.; comes plain or Napiei 1. double faced coating with wool with cord stripes or cord plaids. face and vicuna or goats' hair back; Originally is from India. It is pro- 2, good grade of floor matting, made duced In the finishing process. The of hemp and jute. English nainsook is finished soft, Napolitaine A French while the French is made crisp. flannel, originally made with all-woolen Nak Medieval name for cloths of gold. warp and fill- ing, loosely woven, not and Nakhai Bicliidi Navajo blanket of Mexi- fulled, dyed in the piece, striped or printed; can origin, woven with weft stripes used for dresses, , etc. in red, blue, black and white. Namad Felted carpets of Persia and In- Napped Goods Woolen or cotton fabrics, dia. finished with a nap (see) on the face or the back. The nap might cover Namazlik Turkish name for prayer the entire fa'bric or of its rugs. only parts surface, forming stripes or figures. Nambali Silk fabric with religious names printed on; used for garments in Napping A finishing process in the man- India. ufacture of certain woolens and cot- tons (like broadcloth, flannel, etc.). Namdas Felted woolen made in cloth, After weaving the fabric one side of Thibet. Is often embroidered and it is scratched up (gigged or used for rugs and carpets. napped). The nap thus raised is brushed and Namitka A fine sheer veil, woven in shorn even. southern Russia from homespun silk by the peasants and used for head Narainganji India jute of good commer- ornament. cial value; it has a strong, soft and long fiber of reddish brown color; Nanako Plain woven Japanese silk fab- in the Dacca district. ric. grown Nancy Embroidery French needlework, Narrow Fabrics Ribbons, tapes, shoe lin- combining embroidery in colored silk ings, etc. with drawnwork. Narrow Goods Piece goods of cotton, Nanduty Very fine lace made of cotton wool or silk, made 27 inches wide or or pita fiber in South America. It is less. made in small squares joined to- gether. Narrow Wale Narrow diagonal ribs, round or flat, on some woolens and Nankeen 1, originally a medium weight, worsteds. plain woven, yellowish brown fabric made in China of a native cotton and Narrowing In knitting the reduction of finished pure. Imitated by other cot- the number of stitches for the pur- ton fabrics, dyed in the same color, pose of shaping. used by Chinamen for clothes; 2, Narumi-shibori cotton and silk cotton cloth in Roumania, having a Japanese as follows: white warp and pink, red or yellow crepes, dyed After taken colored filling; it is finished with a from the loom the fabric has many size; 3, English and French all-cot- small knots tied into it by means of

ton, very stout, plain , woven fabric, wax thread and placed in the dye. in the dyed yarn and made in solid After taken out of the dye, the wax colors, stripes, with equal number of thread is removed, leaving behind threads in the warp and weft in a spots untouched by the dye. These square inch; used for clothing. spots form small conical prominences, Nankeen Cotton Grown in China and In- as the also slightly shrinks and dia; has reddish staple. dye crinkles the fabric. Nankin 1, Chinese cotton canvas of yel- lowish or grayish tint, made in pieces Narwuli White, soft and not very strong of 70 yards long. It came also in blue, bast fiber of a tree of same name in black, red, green, yellow and brown; India; used for ropes. obsolete; 2, a French cotton piece Nate^A French mercerized cotton cloth. goods, similar to the Chinese; 3, fine net made of unbleached linen; obso- Natrium Bifluoride^Used as substitute 4, see . lete; for cream of tartar and potassium bi- Nankinet 1, similar to nankin but not chromate. woven as close; 2, fine, fancy colored percales. Natte (French term for a basket weave silk fabric made with different colored Nansu Nainsook in Venezuela. warp and filling. Nap The downy substance, covering Natural Refers to or unbleached either side, entirely or partly, of a undyed cotton or wool. woolen or cotton fabric. It is formed by the loose fibers of the warp or Natural Are obtained weft Dyestuffs directly threads, and is produced by from the various plants and animals, the cloth scratching and thus raising as for instance indigo, cochineal, etc. the nap. In this respect it is dis- tinctly different from the pile (see) Naturell In Germany and Austria a very which is always formed by a cut yarn light and soft finished, plain woven separate from the ground of the cloth. cotton fabric; used for underwear. NAV 111 NIL

Navajo Blanket Heavy, stiff wool blank- Net 1, in hand made laces the mesh et, woven with geometrical patterns ground; 2, see tulle and maline. always in straight or zigzag lines in Net Canvas Made of cotton or linen with bright color combination on primi- an open texture, in black or white tive, upright frame by the Navajo and stiffened with used for em- Indian women. It is very closely wov- gize; broidery ground. en and waterproof. The first speci- mens were of native wool or unrav- Net Leno Leno fabrics having the cross- eled bayeta, the yarn of which was ing warp (see) floating on the face of often twisted harder. Later German- the fabric and forming zigzag lines. town cotton yarn and warp was in- Net Silk Another name for thrown silk troduced. Most blankets are alike in England. on both sides. In Naval Lace Gold braid used on uniforms. Netting nautics, network made of cord or rope. Navy Serge A very strong and fine serge used for uniforms by the U. S. Army. iNettle Cloth 1, mentioned in 16th cen- Made of fine worsted, dyed indigo tury English manuscript; is of un- blue in the wool. known structure; 2, a light, sheer fab- ric, woven of the stem fibers of the Navy Twill Heavy weight, blue navy nettle in Germany. wool twilled flannel; used for work- ing shirts. Nettle Fiber Short, fine stem fiber yield- the for Ndargua Variety of raw cotton from, ed by nettle; used twine, cloth, Senegambia. The staple is coarse, etc., in Austria, Germany, etc. short and strong and of white color. Neuilly French machine-made tapestry Nead End In Kngland that end of piece made in imitation of the real gobe- goods which is shown. lins. Near-silk Trade term for several mer- New Rag sorting term, signifying new cerized cotton linings. tailor's clips for rags. Neat wool taken Com'bing from the sides New 16th century English of an lustre average fleece; used for term for serges, bays, says, perpetu- from 32s to yarns 36s. anas, etc. (see each). Necanee East Indian blue and white New Zealand Cotton Fine, strong bast striped calico. iflber, yielded by the young branches Needle Cords Closely woven worsted of the ribbon tree in New Zealand; dress goods, made of fine, gassed sin- used for fishing lines. gle yarns, producing closely placed, fine ribs, similar to rows of needle New Zealand Hemp 'Long, soft, white, holes. silky and very strong leaf fiber yielded by the Phormium tenax in Needle Felt See Punched felt. Australasia; used for ropes, twine, Needle-point Lace Laces made with the matting and cloths. The base mark needle, irrespective of style or de- is "fair Wellington." sign; see bobbin lace. New Zealand Tow 'Waste resulted from Needle Work All kinds of plain and dec- the of the New Zealand orative works scutching (embroidery and lace) flax; contains short .fibers. executed with the needle by hand. Newar-^Cotton tape, made the natives Negrepelisse French woolen cloth, thor- by of used for cots. oughly fulled with long raised nap; India; mostly black. Neyanda Strong silky leaf fiber, yielded Negretti A large species of native Span- by the bow string he.-np in Ceylon; ish sheep, yields fine and soft wool. used for ropes, cordage and coarse cloth, etc. Negro Cloth A coarse homespun fabric, used for clothing by the negro slaves Nguine Coarse, reddish cotton, grown in in America. ISenegambia. Negro Cotton Commercial term for vari- Ngutunui Native name for a species of ous cotton grown in Western Africa. the New Zealand flax (see) yielding fibers suitable for the finest fabrics. Neigelli, Neghelli Cloth made of the fiber of sunn hemp in India. Nid d'Abeille (French for honeycomb pattern. Named Persian felt rug with patterns Nifels Mentioned under Edward IV. in of colored wool pressed into it. See Namad. England, thought to have been a sort of veil. Neps Little knots of immature or In- Niggerhead Same as boucle (see). completely developed tangled fibers: Fine of the their presence is usually the result Niihau Hawaiian mats, made of improper ginning though some- stem fibers of the makaloa, the cy- times caused through careless pick- press hedge. ing and carding. It is hard to spin Nlkerie Variety of raw cotton from or dye. South 'America. Neri Grade of waste silk, obtained from Nilghiri iNettle Soft, silky and very 'long the inner smooth skin of the cocoon, bast fiber, yielded by the Girardinia left over after the reeling. palmata in India. Nessu i Native name in East Africa for Nilla A cloth made of mixture of silk nainsook. with bast fibers in East India. NIL 112

Nilsaria Stout East Indian calico with Norwich Fustian An English worsted stripes or cheeks composed of round dress goods of the 16th century. blue dots. Norwich Satin Glossy English worsted Nimes French piece dyed, wool dress fab- fabric of the 16th century. ric of medium hav- quality, originally Norwich Shawl A fine English silk shawl, ing 2,200 ends. warp originally made with checks and A stout French chiffon; used for stripes and embroidered afterwards; summer dresses. later it was made of printed silk Nip Flaw in the yarn, consisting of thin yarn. places. Nottingham Lace .Machine-made cotton Nipa 1, a palm in the Philippines, the laces, mostly curtain laces, originally leaves of which are used for mats, from N., England. The characteristic hats, sails, and raincoats for the na- of the curtain laces is the well marked tives; 2, the cocoanut tree in the warp threads, the patterns being Nicobar Islands. The leaves are formed by a sort of darning stitch. clipped in wide strips and used for None 'French for knotted. sail cloth. Nouka Good quality of Georgian wool. Nishiki A very rich gold and silver bro- Nouveaute 'French for novelty; fabrics cade, made in Japan. and trimmings outside of the staple No ThrowSame as trame (see). lines. Node An English cotton dress fabric Novato A woolen or silk fabric; used in the 16th and 17th century in Eng- haying a boucle face and having twisted knots either in the warp or land. the filling. Noyales 1, fine French bleached linen, Noil Short wool fibers which are carded sometimes mixed with cotton; 2, un- French sail the and used for woolen goods. It is the bleached, hemp cloth, with a six- result of combing the wool, which strongest .grade made ply process separates it from the top. warp. . 4 French for clouded color effects. Nomad Carpets Persian knot wool car- Milage pets of plain design. Nub Yarn Fancy cotton, wool or silk a around which Non Battue Loosely woven French linen yarn, having ply core, is twisted another canvas of inferior grade. thread, forming knots at regular intervals. Nonpareilles Camlet like French cloth, 'See count. made either of all wool or mixed with Numbering goats' hair or linen yarn. See also Nun's 'Cloth

Oatmeal A sort of armure weave, with a Ombre French term for ribbons and dress resemblance to oatmeal. goods, shaded with various colors or Oatmeal Cloth-^Soft and thick cloth of various shades of the same color. The linen cotton or wool with a pebbled change in the color or the shade takes face like ratine; used for upholstery place usually from one selvage to the draping, dresses, etc. Often made with other along the entire length of the waste filling. fabric. a Oats Karly .maturing commercial variety Onde I, light French woolen dress of American cotton, the staple meas- goods; 2, French term for moire ef- fect on silk and wool fabrics. uring 20-25 millimeters; the yield is 32-34 per cent. Ondee Yarn made of a ifine and a heav- ier strand. Odjaklik Turkish name for Oriental hearth rugs, usually having a center Ondule 1, various plain woven, light silk field with pointed ends. or cotton fabrics, having the warp or filling but mostly the latter placed Oeil de Perdrix a in old 1, fancy ground in wavy line without any gauze French laces, consisting of brides, weave. Warp ondules are made with ornamented with of groups knots; 2, several sets of warps; used for dress plain French serge dress goods, made goods; 2, a French corded and twilled with leaves and four in a eight picks dress fabric, made with eight warp repeat. ends and eight picks in a repeat; 3, a Oeillet French for eyelet. stout, completely fulled cloth with a raised Ogilvie A Highland tartan of very com- long, nap. plicated composition, consisting of Onteora Rug (Modern American rug wov- wide red and blue stripes, narrower en on hand looms. The weft consists ^l^ek and red stripes and lines of blue, of piece ends of colored , form- black, red and yellow. ing blocks, stripes and arrows as de- signs. Oilcloth Used for table or floor cover. 1, East Indian table oilcloth is thin, pliable and made Oomrawuttee cotton, having a but short of on cotton base; 2, floor oilcloth is regular, strong staple thicker, made on burlap base which is a white or creamy color; usually dirty. laid over with several layers of lin- Ooze 1, loose fibers on the yarn; 2, flaw seed oil mixed with ochre and othei in the yarn, consisting of unevenly pigments; the goods are then printed twisted .places. and varnished. Open BandYarn twisted to the right Cotton fabric, made waterproof hand. with boiled oil; used for sailors' coats. Open Lace See Darned lace. Giselle Hemp--

Opus Saracenicum Medieval Latin term Orrice Gold and silver lace; used in Eng- for tapestry. land in the 18th century. Now a sort of Opus Scissum Latin name for the first upholstery braid. cut work. Orsey Silk Same as organzine. Tiratum Opus Latin name for drawn- Ortica Obsolete name for thin fab- work. light, rics, woven of nettle fibers. Orange. Fine French calico, with printed Ortigao Strong bast fiber, yielded by a fast now obsolete. dyes; species of the nettle in Brazil; used Orangelist A coarse woolen lining, made for nets, clothing, etc., by the na- in great widths and dyed in bright tives. made in colors; Kngland for the Span- Ortigues A coarse French packing can- ish markets; obsolete. vas. Orchil Violet used dyestuff, for animal Osbro 117th century English worsted fus- obtained fibers, from a lichen (ro- tian; often mixed with silk. cella tinctoria). Osiei A willow, salix viminalis, the bark 'Lowest of American cotton full Ordinary of which is used for baskets, ropes grades. See Cotton. and garments by the Indians. Orenburg Shawl A framework knitted Osman A very firm terry cloth made in fabric, made by shifting certain loops England, the loops being beaten up sideways the distance of several on four picks. needles and thus forming the design. Osnaburg 'Plain woven, strong cotton Organdie A fine, thin, sheer, plain wov- fabric, made in blue and white or en cotton muslin finished very clear brown and white stripes and checks and crisp with little size; comes or solid colors; used for overalls, usually bleached, but also dyed or farmers' clothing, etc., in the United .printed; used for dresses and trim- States. Originally from Germany. mings. Ostads ^A twilled and thoroughly fulled Organzine A fine silk yarn, used for woolen cloth with nap raised, shorn warp; it is composed usually of three and calendered; now obsolete. Orig- to eight cocoon filaments twisted inally from Holland. lightly to the right and two or three Otbornoi General trade term for such threads twisted together to the superior of classed flax and in left. The best grade of reeled and grade hemp Russia. twisted silk is used. A lustrous woven silk Oriental Embroidered laces, made on Ottoman plain Plauen machines. fabric with heavier cross ribs than faille. The warp completely covers of Oriental Carpets Hand-made carpets the filling, which is of cotton. Asia, especially Asiatic Turkey, Per- Ottoman Cord A silk or wool dress fab- sia, Bokhara, Afghanistan and India. ric, made with very heavy warp, form- They have either hand-knotted pile ribs and much -finer, hard spun or are woven similar to tapestry. The ing which entirely covers the warp material is usually wool, but the filling, in weave. finest Persians have silk pile. The plain design is characteristic of each dis- Ouate Vegetale French trade term for trict and good examples of carpets various tree cotton fibers; used for show beautiful rich and finely blended stuffing. colors. Oudenarde Tapestry woven with foliage Orientate 'Single faced, ribbed, French design in Belgium. silk dress with a high finish, goods Oulemari Native Indian name for the fi- There are 18 made with ply warp. brous bast of the Couratari tree in ends and 18 in a repeat. warp picks French Guiana; used for cloths, Orleans 1, lightweight fabric, originated blankets, etc. in the of the in England early part O unce The weight of one square yard of 19th century; it was woven .usually cloth, as standard, is expressed in tout also in five harness twill in plain, ounces. with a two-ply cotton warp and wors- ted filling which completely covered Thread Fine linen yarn for laces the warp and dyed in the piece; used and embroideries; made in England. for men's wear, dress goods, linings. Also called Nun's thread.

Orleantine 1, French serge dress goods, Oursine A French shaggy faced woolen made with 10 leaves and 10 picks in coating, similar to bearskin. a repeat; 2, French dress goods made French linen. with two-ply warp, having eight Ourville A leaves and six picks in a repeat. Oushak Rugs Usually large sized, all- made in Asia Minor. The Ormuk A fine, soft fabric, of the wool rugs made_ and loose is hair of young camels in Turkestan. medium long, soft pile tied in Ghiordes knot. Ornis Fine East Indian muslin with wov- en gold and silver stripes. Outing Cloth Soft cotton fabric, woven with colored and napped on Orraye Heavy and closely woven silk .patterns used for dresses, shirts, satin of Persian origin with embroid- both sides; trousers, etc. Same as outing flannel ered flowers; it is made alike on both domet. sides. or OUT 115 PAK

Outinq Flannel 1, an all-wool or cotton Pack Duck In England a coarse, stout mixed fabric; used for men's and linen fabric; used for packing. women's outing garments. It is Pack Thread Very strong twine; used for woven with a four-leaf, even-sided tying bundles. It is made two or three twill, fulled, napped, shorn and .ply, of hemp or flax, in various thick- pressed; 2, a flannelette, made in imi- nesses and fineness. tation of the above. Packing Whit A 15th century English Ouvre French term for fabrics having woolen. and other small checks patterns, pro- Paco Another name for alpaca. duced on an ordinary loom. See Damasse. Pacputan Coarse wool from northwestern India. Overcast Stitch Used in embroidery Pad Thick, moire silk ribbon, in colors, around the of open parts, as edges for watch chains or narrower, in for instance in eyelet embroidery. black, for guard for eyeglasses. Overcheck Two checks of different colors Padded Back In England printed linings, woven over each other, or a check the back of which is solid over a in solid printed gray pattern placed ground or black. color. A process in mordanting cotton; Overcoating A great variety of medium Padding the fabric is thoroughly soaked in weight or heavy woolen or worsted or a solution of metallic salts, the ex- union fabrics, woven for overcoats. cess bath is removed by squeezing, the Overshot Term in England for floats cloth is dried and the salts are fixed formed by the weft. by dunging (see). Overspun Irregular yarn, showing too Paddings Jute cloth, similar to the Hes- much twist at the thin places. sian, in natural color or black; it is Oxalic Acid Used in printing cotton and stiffened and used as padding for dyeing and mordanting wool. coats. narrow silk ribbon in France. Oxford 1, stout cotton shirting, woven Padou A chiefly in plain or fancy basket Stout, rich Italian silk fabric; weaves, with clean and narrow colored name obsolete, the fabric being known warp stripes. The weft is slack twist, as peau de sole. thick and lustrous cotton yarn, usual- Paesano Trade term for the best two in white. In England it is woven ly grades of Naples hemp; the third and .plain, with two warps in a heald and fourth grades are called cordaggio. a soft spun filling in each shed. In Germany and Austria it is made with n oblong piece of cotton, dyed two picks in each shed; 2, stiff fin- blue or red; worn as loin cloth in ished, yarn dyed cotton checks and Africa. in Asia woolen stripes -Minor; 3, gray Pagnes Cotton cloth in Sierra Leone. mixture fabric, woven of yarns hav- fine French woolen ob- ing black and white strands; 4, in Pagnon A fabric; knit goods dark gray mixture yarns. solete. Oxford Gray Various fabrics, made of Paile (Medieval French silk fabric of yarn containing black and white fibers Arabic origin. mixed in various proportions. Paillette Spangled; silk or net orna- Oxo Wool lA flax substitute for wool. mented with liquid gelatin or glass. Oyah Lace Coarse Turkish crochet lace Paina A lustrous seed fiber, growing wild made of colored silk yarn. in Brazil; used for stuffing pillows and said to be spun in Switzerland. Ozier 'Early maturing .commercial va- riety of upland cotton, the staple Painted Cloth Canvas with various mot- measuring 25-28 millimeters, forming toes painted on it in oil; used for medium bolls; the yield is 30-S2 per hanging in medieval England. cent. Painters' Canvas 'Fine corded woven fab- ric, one side ribbed and the other made similar to knit fabric; made of all-wool or mixed with cotton. 'Shawl Made in the 19th century in Paisley, Scotland, in imitation of the cashmere shawl. It was made of fine cashmere wool warp with a silk core and botany worsted .filling. The shawl was woven face downward, double now obso- Pabnapar Fine white or colored cotton later made faced; lete. cloth, woven with email patterns by the natives of India. Paisseau (An obsolete French woolen Pachras Bright striped thick cotton cloth serge. made in India; used for garments. Paita Variety of raw cotton from Peru; see Payta. Pack 1, 240 pounds measure for wool top and flax; 2, linen yarn 'measure, equal Pajam Bast Indian cotton fabric. to 60,000 yards. Pakea 'Fine mats woven without any fig- Pack Cloth 'Coarse burlap; used for pack- ures by the natives of Hawaii; used ing. for garments, etc. PAK 116 PAP

Pakki Long ells in the Chinese trade. Pangalo A new variety of Egyptian cot- Paklaken^Said to be an English fabric, ton; the staple is described as brown- made of wool, usually white; obsolete. ish, of silky gloss and strong. Palambangs Plain woven cotton fabrics, Pangane Very long and strong leaf fiber, worn as loin cloths or scarfs in India, yielded by the Sansevieria plant in made with a fancy border and head- Eastern Africa; used for cordage, ing. nets, etc. Palampooi -Rich, printed cotton fabric, Pangdan -Name of the screw pine in the made in India and China; used for 'Philippines; the long leaves are split bed cover. and woven into bags and mats. Palanche Heavy cloth made of linen Pangfil

Pa I mat -Very soft, medieval silk fabric Italy. with figures of palms woven in; used Pano Cru 'Heavy cotton sheeting or T for bed spreads. cloth in Portugal, made with colored head ends. Palmet .Strong black leaf fiber yielded by the Prionium palmita in South Africa; Panossare Oblong piece of cotton with substitute for horsehair. red stripes; used as loin cloth in Af- Palmette Shawl made in France with a rica. foundation of two-ply wool warp and Panriges -East Indian silk cloth with combed wool filling, and carded wool flower design. yarn for the figures. Panse de Vache Figured French linen; Palmetto Leaf fibers, yielded by the obsolete. palmetto palms; used for hats, mats, etc. Panting Same as trousering. Panus Tartaricus A medieval fabric. Palmyra Stiff and harsh leaf fiber, yield- ed by a palm in Ceylon; used for Papeline Originally a lightweight dress Bassine. brushes. See goods, made in Avignon, France, of Palometa 18th century worsted from silk warp and silk waste filling in linen. Flanders; often mixed with plain colors, or figured; one side had In a soft silky Palo Barracho Argentine a selvage of different color than the fiber, yielded by the pod of the Bom- bax ventricosa. warp. Cambric Lightweight, lustrous Soft, white, silky and very Paper Palungao cotton lining. durable fiber, yielded by the hibiscus plant in India; used as hemp substi- Paper Cloth Cotton, hemp or jute fab- tute. See also Ambari Hemp. ric coated with paper on one or both between used for Pamna Hazara An Indian cotton muslin. sides, heavy rollers; boxes, etc. South American sheep, yielding Pampa Paper Muslin Light weight cotton mus- long, straight and bright wool. lin, sized and given a lustrous finish; Panache French for high and variegated used for lining. colored effect. Paper Yarn Unfinished, pure sulphate Panama -Plain woven worsted dress paper is out into strips one-sixth inch goods, dyed in the piece; hopsacking wide and upwards, according to the made of coarse yarn in basket weave, required size of the yarn. Each strip made plain or in two colors. There is is wound on a bobbin, from which it also a dress goods of cotton warp and is spun by dampening it first, sized double wool filling producing an effect and finally twisted. It can be dyed similar to the texture of the Panama before or after spinning and it takes hats. waterproofing well; used for packing Panama Canvas Thick, cream colored, twine, tarpaulins, waterproof canvas, fabrics, carpets, basket weave canvas; it is beetled and trimmings, drapery It is used used for embroidery. mats, towelings. usually as filling with cotton or wool warp, Panama Weave Consists of several warp and also has been made into cheap other and weft threads crossing each clothing. For the finest sizes tissue like effect. at once, producing a mat paper is used and for very strong Pandanus A palm in East Africa, India yarns Swedish kraft paper. used and Polynesia; the leaves are Papery -Excessive smoothness given to for mats, baskets, hats. the cloth with the aid of sizes in the Pang A Chinese silk dress goods. finishing process. PAP 117 PAT

Papoon Plain woven cotton fabric; used Parthenos French silk velvet dress in India; made of different colored goods. warp and filling or in small checks. Partridge Cord A mottled corduroy Papyrus The paper reed, Cyperus papy- Parwalla General term in Bengal for cot- are used rus, of Egypt: the stem fibers ton cloth with a colored selvage for cloth, sails, mats, cords, etc. Pasac Philippine fiber, used for cordage. Para Variety of raw cotton from Brazil. Pashim, or Pashmina Very fine, downy Fiber Commercial of the Para grade wool found under the hair of the piassava (see). cashmere goat in India; it comes in worsted Paragon An 18th century pure gray, white or drab colors and is used a.nother name for fabric in England; for the finest rugs and shawls. peropus. Passement 1, obsolete French term for Paraguay Lace Bobbin lace, made of fine 2, French name for the traced threads with wheel designs in Para- lace; and pricked parchment, on which guay. hand made laces are executed. Variety of raw cotton from Parahyba Passementerie Braids, fringes, etc., used Prazil, having a fairly strong, harsh for trimming. staple of white color. of a narrow Paramatta English dress goods, orig- Passing Thread consisting twisted around a silk inated in the 19th century, woven with flat strip of gold for and cotton warp and Botany filling in 2 core. Used embroidering work. The smallest size is >"! 1 weft faced twill. It is also used tapestry for raincoats. called tambour. Parangon 'Silk cloth in the Levant. Passing Braid Is made of passing, (see). Parao Strong leaf 'fiber of the Hibiscus Pastille 1, pattern consisting of dots tiliareus in Society Islands; used for only; 2, round dots, usually of velvet ropes. or other thick material woven or ap- to nets, veils, etc. Parchment Cotton A fine, plain woven pliqued colon fabric in England, sized and Pastourelle Plain French serge, made (finished to resemble parchment. with eight harnesses and four picks Parchment Lace 'See Guipure. in a repeat. Parchmentier 18th century wool fabric, Patagonian Long staple, heavy shrinking made in Norwich, England. wool from Southern Chile, washes Pardia Kufr Very fine cotton fabric, very white; used for hosiery. made in India and embroidered with Patchwork Needlework, consisting of gold and silver birds or flowers; worn joining various colored and shaped as a shawl. clippings of materials with fancy Pardo A temporary, brown colored vari- stitches, to form quilts, covers, etc. ation of several Peruvian cottons. Patent Axminster Pile carpet woven on Pareu Narrow and cheap cotton cloth in power loom, chenille being used for the Society Islands, printed with fruit filling. in red or blue on and flower designs Patent Beaver All-wool beaver cloth of or red on white; white foundation fine fulled very thor- the very quality, used for skirts or loin cloths by making the fabric almost natives. oughly, waterproof. Parhdai Cotton muslin from India, hav- Patent Cord Obsolete French and Eng- ing plain or gold selvage. or lish pile fabric, made with wool Paris Cord Stout, all-silk cloth with fine cotton warp, wool filling and a long weft in France; used ribs, originated of wool. for neckwear, etc. pile Flannel A and sheer Paris Embroidery Consists of small Patent very light leaves and berries embroidered with English flannel. white cord on pique or with floss silk Patent Yarn Union yarn made of linen on colored satin or cloth. and cotton before fine spinning was Parisian Cloth In the 19th century an invented; name now obsolete. English fabric, made of cotton warp Patentes (Bleached, cotton sheetings in and worsted 'filling, often woven with Portugal. dobby figures. Patna ilndian knotted wool or cotton cloth in France Parisienne 1, a silk made rugs, having geometrical designs in with small patterns; 2, a figured or- white and various blues. leans, very fashionable in the middl" fabric with of the 19th century in France and Patole Bordered silk printed, embroidered or hand painted patterns, England; 3. very soft, lightweight in India. It is made about a French dress fabric, made black, of made merino wool. yard wide. Parkal In India same as percale. Pattern The ornamental design which is element in a fabric Paropa A fabric made of silk and wool, only a decorative and different from the weave. In used in England during the 16th and embroideries it is often and 17th centuries. Also called laces characteristic of the different makes. peropus. for a Parlrre Obsolete light silk damask in Pattes De Lievre French term West France. Indian tree cotton. PAT 118 PEN

Patron d'Hollande Fine bleached and Peau De Suede Woolen dress fabric figured French table linen; obsolete. made with velvet plaid design. Patu A very fine Bast Indian fabric, Pebbled The effect produced by various made of pashim wool. Also a very irregular twill weaves, mostly on silk strong but coarse fabric, made of fabrics. goats' hair. Pechiyong A white Chinese plush made Patwa Very strong bast fiber, yielded by of wool and cotton. the Bauhenia vahlii, a climbing plant Peeler Late maturing commercial variety in India; used for cordage; also of American cotton grown in the called mohwal. Mississippi delta, the strong and Paukas Coarse Kast Indian calico. lustrous staple measuring 2>5-2S milli- Paukpan iBast fiber yielded by the meters; the yield is 30-32 per cent. Aeschyomena aspera, a small bush Peerless Early maturing commercial in Burma; used for cords and hats. variety of upland cotton, the staple Paules A medieval English worsted measuring 23-27 millimeters, forming cloth. small bolls; the yield is 32-33 per cent. Paunch Mat A thick mat woven of ropes for and flattened; used in ships. Pegging A finishing process vel- veteens; it consists in rubbing the Pavie Fine, bleached and figured French pile with blocks of wood or soap- table linen; obsolete. stone to impart a gloss. Payta Variety of raw cotton from Peru, Pekin 1, French silk dress goods having the staple is of color, little grayish alternate stripes of velvet and satin lustre and strong. or gauze; 2, general term for colored Pearce 'Commercial variety of early ma- warp stripes of even width spaced turing upland cotton, yielding 32-33 evenly. cent of medium lint. per long Pekin Crepe Silk crepe made with yarn Pearking Obsolete English trade term dyed, colored warp stripes and the meaning examination of the finished regulation crepe 'filling of alternate goods. right and left hand twist picks. Pearl 'See Bar. Pekin Gauze^Xarrow velvet stripes over Pearl of Beauty Another name for a gauze foundation. Buffyn (see), made with warp stripes. Pelade 'French term for wool, pulled from Pearl Braid Made of three or more onde slaughtered sheep in Egypt and Syria. yarne. Pelang White or colored silk satin made Pearl Edge iSee Picot. in China. Pearl Knitting Knitted fabrics having all Pelerine Work Framework knitting in loops of one row lying in one direc- which the shifting of the sinker loop tion and the next in an opposite forms the design. Used for shawls. direction. Pelestrina Lace Italian bobbin lace used Pearling Obsolete Scotch term for linen for the household. The characteristic or silk lace; also a fine cambric. pattern is the leaf of the grapevine. Peat Fiber Obtained from peat, used for Pelisse A soft but heavy twilled woolen stuffing, etc. fabric, used for coats. Peau French for skin; a very common Pelleton French term for goats' hair from name (in connection with other words, Asia Minor, used for hats. as "mouse," "peach," etc.) for Pellon A sort of baize made with an modern dress goods, with an ex- extra long napped faced with a curly ceedingly ifine, downy nap, which is and glossy finish. produced mostly by the emerizing Pelo Italian for silk twisted of eight or process (see) and shorn after. 10 strands, used for gold and silver Peau De Cygne A stout silk fabric, made cloths. with a pebbled face and given a high for ball finish. Pelote French fringe. of vicuna Peau De Diable A durable French Pelotage The lowest grade very wool from Peru. trousering, made of all cotton and printed. Pelt Wool Taken from the skin of Peau de Gant^White silk damask dress slaughtered sheep. goods. Peluche French for plush. Peau De Mouton A French twilled Peluche Argent Made with silk warp and woolen coating, having a curled pile two picks of silk and one pick of of mohair or wool. silver thread alternately; the pile ef- silver che- Peau D'Ours A very shaggy woolen over- fect is obtained by using nille after ten coating, (bearskin). every picks. made with Peau De Poule Plain colored French Peluche French plush silk and cotton the serge, having eight leaves and four warp filling, pile of obsolete. picks in a repeat, also an obsolete toeing swansdown; French silk dress fabric. Pelure D'Oignon Very light, dressed, five- for hat trim- Peau de Soie Stout and very soft dress leaf silk satin, used silk, dyed in the piece, showing on mings. both or only on one side fine cross Penang -Stout, East Indian printed cot- ribs. ton cloth. PEN 119 PER

Pencil Antiquated English name for long Pernambuco Finest of Brazilian cottons and narrow strips of silk, used for having a strong and somewhat wiry pennants staple of light golden color. Pencil Stripes Dress goods for men's Peropus or Parapes English worsted of wear, usually dyed in the piece, hav- the 17th century similar to camlet. very fine dotted stripes formed by ing 17th century stout English a single silk thread in a different Perpetuana worsted similar to color. lastings. Penelope Canvas Open canvas made of Perpetuelle A fine, closely woven, very cotton or linen with double threads durable worsted serge in France and in the warp and filling; it is heavily England. sized in the (finish. Used for em- Perroquets French hemp sailcloth. broidery foundation. Perrotine Printing Is done by blocks Peniche Portuguese peasant bobbin lace fastened to an iron frame. The cloth with in black and white, made geo- is passing between the blocks and metrical designs. iron plates; used for printing hand- Peniston iStout English woolens of low kerchiefs. similar to melton; ob- grade stock, perse Obsolete French printed or paint- solete. ed cottons made in Oriental designs. Pepita In Germany and Austria shep- Also obsolete general term for print- herd checks in two colors, on dress ed cottons. men's trouserings and suitings. goods, and linen Named after a Spanish actress. Persening 'Waterproofed jute fabrics. Pepper and Salt Mixed colored effect in woolens and worsteds, produced Persian Very light silk lining, printed with ply yarns of black and white with large flowers; used in England strands (double and twist). in the 18th century. used in Pepperdust Staple Trade term for cot- Persian Berries Yellow color the ton staple containing very fine but eteam calico printing; yielded by numerous particles of leaves. berries of the buckthorn. Percal Cuadrito In Cuba a blue and Persian Cord 1, thin, washable dress white or black and white checked goods of wool warp and a heavier, cot- cotton cloth. ton filling, the latter forming fine ribs, finished only on the face; 2, Percale-^Plain wash- woven, light weight, weft face fabric, consisting of cot- able, dull finish, closely woven and ton warp and worsted filling, two used for printed cotton fabric, dresses, warp threads being run -through each etc. in black or Usually printed heald, thus forming ribs. other dark color, but it comes also in white. Originally from India. Persian Cross Stitch Or rep stitch used in embroidery, it is a variety Percales cotton in 1, ordinary prints of the cross stitch, composed of a long 2, in Cuba a cotton batik with Chile; tent stitch, taking over six horizon- white over dark blue or designs red, tal threads in a slanting direction black ground. and over two threads in height; this Percaline 'Light weight, plain woven stitch is crossed over in the middle glazed and watered cotton fabric, like a cross stitch. made of single yarn and dyed in the Persian Knot One of the two different Used for lining, stiffening, piece. knots in which the pile is tied in etc. This is , expression hand made Oriental rugs and car- also used for silesia. pets. A loop is formed around the Perces 'Waste silk, obtained from stained warp thread and is tightened by be- or imperfect cocoons. ing pulled. Thus the pile is placed be- tween all threads. It is also Perches

Peruvian Sea Island Peruvian cotton, Petit Venise Obsolete fine damask table having a long, very fine and linen with small designs often con- moderately strong fiber of golden sisting of square checks; made in brown color. France and Holland. Peruvienne Heavy French silk with Pfelle Medieval silk fabric of Arabic ori- multi-colored flower patterns; ob- gin. solete. Philip and Cheney Obsolete English fab- Petaline Embroidery Of Japanese origin; ric of unknown structure. the and leaves of the flowers petals Phillizellies 17th century English wors- are on silk or stamped separately ted, same as Peropus. linen, a fine non-rusting wire is Phoras Sheer East Indian cotton cloth. couched around the edge; this is Photee The finest of cotton fastened down with long and short variety buttonhole stitches and the entire grown along the Brahmaputra; used for the best of Dacca mus- petal or leaf is covered with white grades lin. or colored silk. It is then cut out and the petals combined into a flower Phrygian Work Antiquated name for and attached to the foundation; the embroidery. different petals or leaves can be bent Phrygienne French silk satin dress goods to imitate nature more closely. with small brocaded patterns; ob- Petanelle A fabric, being the mixture of solete. chemically treated and peat wool, Phthalic Anhydride Very bright red arti- made in England according to a sec- ficial, direct dyestuffs, used mostly ret process and said to have hygienic on animal fibers. They fade easily. properties; used for shirts and clothes. Piara of raw cotton from Peru. IMats made by the natives of the Variety Philippines of the leaves of the buri Piassava Brown, stiff and wiry fiber, palm, the pandang or a sedge. yielded by the leaf stalks of the mon- Petenuche French term for a low grade key bass tree in Brazil; used for of silk waste. brooms and coarse ropes. Peteria White, silky, but rather weak Picarde Ratine A French cotton fabric, pita fiber from Brazil. resembles the Turkish toweling of a and flat made Peterkin 'Commercial of medium light weight weave; variety 40 inches wide. maturing upland cotton, the staple measuring 22-25 millimeters; the Pichina Wide French twilled woolen yield is 34-36 per cent; also Texas suiting made of natural brown wool. wood, Wise and Crossland. Formerly used by religious sects, now obsolete. Petersburg Flax Fine Russian flax of natural brownish shade. Pick The weft which is shot through the fabric at every flight of the shuttle. Petersham 1, thick ribbons made in all It 'might extend from selvage to sel- colors, moire used for waist finished; of the width of the a vage or only part belting; 2, very thick, waterproof fabric. woolen coating of dark blue color in England; used for overcoats by the Pickings Tufts of short merino wool, seamen; 3, rough faced, heavy woolen containing dry vegetable matter. overcoating, woven with nub yarns. Picklock A wool sorting term, meaning Petin A French cloth made of mixture the second best sort in the fleece, of wool and camels' hair. used for cording. Petits Carreaux Plain French serge, Picot Loops along the selvage of a fabric, made with eight leaves and four picks made by placing in the loom a wire in a repeat. parallel to the selvage of the fabric, Petit Drap 'French term for a light, plain this wire catching certain picks in woven woolen. the weave. After the fabric is woven, the Petite French term for all- the wire is removed, leaving loops Draperie dec- woolen or worsted fabrics which are behind; 2, in laces small loops the of the not subject to fulling or shrinking orating edges pattern. after they are woven. Picot Yarn Same as loop yarn. Petit Grain French term for stout silk Picotte Inferior, all-wool, light camlet taffeta made of heavy yarn. made in Flanders; obsolete. Petit Gulf Commercial variety of medium Piece A fabric woven in lengths varying maturing upland cotton, the staple from 24 yards to 100 yards and over. 22-25 measuring millimeters; the Piece 'Fabrics dyed after woven or yield is 30-32 cent. Dyed per knitted. The dyestuff usually does Petit Point Stitch Same as tent stitch. not penetrate clear through the body Petit Poussin Narrow French bobbin of the fabric.

lace, made of fine thread with simple Piece Goods 1, all textile fabrics woven delicate patterns. in lengths, to be sold by the yard; Petit Toile Stout and fine French linen 2, especially such woolen and worsted of red and white or blue and white fabrics. stripes or checks. Pieces 'Small bunches of wool staple Petit Velours French term of light cot- taken during the sorting from various ton velvet. fleeces and sold in lots. PIE 121 PIN

Pieds Courts A French tapestry velvet. Pile Fabric See corduroy, velveteen, velours, astrakhan, or Lightweight terry velvet, plush, Pielles Cabrados Negros Utrecht velvet and the various rugs wool trouserings in South America. and carpets, both hand made and ma- silk Piemontaise French unfinished chine woven. See also: pile. fabric made of ply warp; used for Pile on Pile Fabric having patterns dresses, etc. There are 12 leaves and formed by a pile of a different length. 12 fillings in a repeat; obsolete. The difference in the length of pile Pierced Cocoon Cocoon from which the on the same fabric can be obtained moth came out by piercing the wall. by weaving or shearing. In weaving be but is used for It cannot reeled, (if pile warp is used) wires are em- spun silk. ployed having varying thickness along Pigment Style Method of textile print- their length or if the pile is produced ing, used mostly on cotton piece goods. by the filling the floats are made of Insoluble pigments are mixed with a different length, shorter floats pro- thickener and the matter applied to ducing shorter pile than long floats. the fabric; the thickener will fix the A greater variety of patterns can be color to the cloth after it was set obtained by shearing the evenly by steam. woven pile. Part of the pile is pressed down and the remaining erect pile Pignas 'Colored cotton handkerchiefs in is shorn short. After the Venezuela. pressed down parts are brushed up again they thick woolen fabric pjje A coarse and will have a longer pile and thus form made in Holland. a design. Pile Yarn in certain fabrics, like velvet, Pile Warp A set of warp threads, velveteen, terry, astrakhan, etc., from the forming the the face of the fabric (en- separate warp covering ground. It is carried over wires of or and showing not its tirely partly) various thicknesses, at intervals, thus side like the warp and weft but its forming the pile. end. The pile is warp p., weft p., or cotton linen knotted pile according to the method Pillow In England a and of weaving and cut, loop or curl pile, dimity, the face finished smooth, according to the finish. Warp pile napped or printed. is formed by a set of warp ends, Pillow Cord 'Bright colored cotton or silk which separate from the ground warp, cord, used by upholsterers. are carried at certain intervals over bobbin lace. wires. When these wires are removed, Pillow Lace 'See the loops formed by the pile are left Pillow Linen In England a fine linen or again these loops can be cut. Silk fabric, containing 150 ends and picks and wool velvets and certain pile rugs in a square inch, used for pillow cas- have such a pile. Weft pile is formed ing. by a set of filling threads separate floats Pillow Tubing Cotton pillow casing, from the ground weft, forming woven without any seam. on the fabric. These floats are cut and brushed up. Velveteen has such Pilot Cloth Heavy, stout and cqarse blue twilled woolen fabric fin- a pile. Knotted pile is found on hand- navy ished with a used by seamen. made rugs. It Is formed by tying nap; various colored wool, silk or cotton Pilsworth In Turkey a bleached cotton yarn to the warp threads. The yarn cloth, with a soft linen finish, very little sized. is cut off and shorn at even length. Pin small check In loop pile, which is always formed Check Very pattern. by warp threads, these are not cut Pin Rib Very fine warp cord in some of tout left in a loop as woven like terry. the fabrics. In cut pile, formed either by warp or Pina Cloth .Made in the Philippine Is- filling threads, the loops of the warp lands of the fibers of the pineapple. or the floats of the weft are cut, It is very thin and transparent. forming short lengths of yarn (pile) Pinara Variety of raw cotton from Peru. which is erect or laid down, but is Pinasses East Indian cloth made of pure straight. The length of the always bast fibers; it has a yellow or brown shorter in vel- pile is different, being color. vet than in plush. Curl pile is usually a heavy, all-wool, produced by warp threads, when Pinchina 1, originally woven fulled French cloth made woven, although the same effect is plain about 52 inches wide. Formerly it also obtained by knitting. This warp was perfumed; 2, an inferior, all-wool, thread is wound around a core and twilled suiting of same width, made of set before weaving. After cutting the coarse undyed wool; 3, name for a. loops, the pile regains its curliness variety of narrow and medium wide (see astrakhan). In order to prevent droguets. the pile from separating from the Pincop Cotton weft yarn. ground easily, it is often lashed, 1. e. Pine Tree Very stout, heavy, fulled carried under two and over one knitted woolen fabric, used for cloth- thread, instead of only under one ing in Canada. thread. The nap on fleece lined un- Pine Wool Pine leaf fibers, knitted into cloth. derwear is also called pile. underwear or woven into coarse PIN 122 PLA

Pineapple Fiber Soft, very fine, lustrous Pittman Commercial variety of early and durable leaf fiber, yielded by the maturing and prolific cotton from pineapple in the Philippine Islands. Louisiana, the staple measuring 23-25 It is one of the very finest among millimeters; the yield is about 31 per the fibers and used for the sheerest cent. muslins. Placarder Ffench term for a resist dye- Pinguin Long, weak and coarse leaf ing process by which the ground will fiber, yielded by a species of the wild take the dye but the pattern remains pineapple in Jamaica. white. Pinking Cutting the edge of the fabric Plagae 'Linen sheeting in ancient Rome. in scalloped form. Plaid A large variety of twilled cotton, Pinsheds Little loops of gold thread woolen, worsted or silk fabrics, woven found in single spots on some in tartan pattern, consisting of colored medieval velvets. bars crossing each other at right Also Pintado 1, an East Indian calico; 2, angles and forming large squares. ordinary cotton prints in Latin Amer- a coarse worsted shawl, woven simi- ican countries. larly, and worn in Scotland. Pique 1, stout, strong cotton or linen Plaiding Obsolete English kersey. dress woven either in cross rib goods, Plain 1, a wool with little crimp; 2, effects or in figures. It is made with fabrics without any ornament as to two sets of warp and one (or in tha weave or color. heavier sets of grades two) filling, Plain Braid Flat braid made of three the forming the rib ef- heavy filling threads. fects, etc., the back warp binding the face and back together. Used for Plain Gauze Leno weave where the warp in dresses, vests, etc.; 2, name for silk threads cross other warps always waste yielded by damaged, stained or the same direction. imperfect cocoons. Plain Knitting Knitted fabric made with Pique Anglais Solid colored French serge, uniformly constructed loops lying in having eight leaves and eight picks in similar direction. It has a different a repeat. appearance on each side. Pique -Damas .Solid colored silk French Plain Weave The simplest among all dress goods; obsolete. weaves, the principle of which is that one and weft cross twilled French vesting, only warp Piquete^Corded each other at one time (see twill). made with eight and four picks warps The relative count of the and in a warp repeat. the weft and the count of the fabric fine and narrow Piramides 17th century offer the greatest variety. The warp made with two- English worsted, and filling can be of the same count, colored yarns. or nearly so, as in taffeta, muslin, Piranshahi Siah Dyed nainsook in Persia. voile, chiffon, "batiste, etc. In some Pirenean Wool Very fine, loose twist of the plain woven fabrics (like warp English woolen yarn for knitting. cords) the warp is of considerably lower count than the filling, while in 'Fine stem fiber of the Pipturus Piripiri Ottomans, failles and other cross argenteus in Tahiti; used for cords, ribbed fabrics the filling is much nets and bags. heavier than the warp. It is also Pirl Gold or silver thread made spiral called taffeta or linen weave. by winding. Plainback An English worsted fabric, Pirle An English finishing process, originated in the 19th century; it is rendering the woolen fabrics water- made of single yarn with a twilled proof and unshrinkable. face and plain back in imitation of Pirn A conical shape, over a conical jean. wooden core, into which weft yarn Plaindin Obsolete Scotch wool serge. is wound for the loom, mostly in the Plains Medieval English worsteds. linen The is laid weaving. yarn par- Plaited Stitch Or herringbone stitch used allel. in embroidery to imitate the herring- Pishteh In the Bible means flax and bone effect. linen. Plaiting The felting of the hair or wool Pita Very long, strong, glossy, white and for hat bodies, by means of heat, silky fiber, yielded by the various moisture and pressure. and in agaves pineapples Central Plantain Strong bast fiber of the plan- America. for Used threads, fine tain tree (Platanus), similar to the hammocks, etc. Manilla hemp. Used in India for Pitambar Yellow colored silk or cotton cordage and mats. fabric; used as loin cloth in India. Planting A process in weaving by which Pitch^l, in hand-made carpets and rugs the various colored extra warps are the number of knots in a square inch; interchanged. 2, in loom-made carpets and rugs the Plated Knit Goods Two separate yarns, ends in 27 number of warp inches. cotton and silk or cotton and wool, Pitchy Wool in the grease. are laid on the needles and formed PittCommercial variety of prolific up- into loops on the framework in such land cotton from Mississippi, now ob- a manner that each yarn appears only solete. on one side of the fabric. PLA 123 POI

Platille A fine quality of pure French Poll 1, French term for pile; 2, silk thread linen. used as core for gold tinsel, consist- or 10 reeled filaments twist- Platt Machine lace made flat without any ing eight ed raised work. The pattern is worked together. by threads running in zig zag line Poile de Chevre Fine, soft French dress between straight and parallel threads. goods made with colored silk or cot- Some of these laces have the design ton warp and angora filling. outlined by a heavier thread while Point 1, in hand-made laces denoting others are made without this out- fine quality, irrespective of the make; line. 2, French term for stitch in laces. for dresses Pleasaunce Fine lawn, used Point a I' Aiguille Lace sprigs made with and veils under Henry VIII of Eng- the needle, irrespective of the de- land. sign. Pleures French term for pulled wool, Point D'Alencon Same as Alencon lace. taken from that died of natural sheep Point Anglaise French for feather stitch. causes. Point D' Angleterre Originated in Eng- Plodan In the 16th century a coarse land as bobbin lace, improved upon woolen made in two or three colored by Flemish needle point stitches in checks worn in Scotland citizens' by the 17th century. The ground shows wives for cloaks. Believed to be the great variety, the net ground being form of early plaid. bobbin-made around the patterns. Plommett A 16th century fabric in Eng- Often cordonnet or ribs are produced land, made of worsted and silk or by plaiting the threads and also bob- linen, the piece weighing 4 Ibs. and bin made brides or fancy needle jours measuring 14 yards. are employed. Plucked Wool Shorn from a carcass Point d'Anvers Same as Antwerp lace. several days old. Point Applique Applique lace, made of Pluie Lustrous dress goods and tapestry, needle-point sprigs attached to a net made in France of silk or camel hair ground. warp with gold or silver threads inter- Point d'Arabe Coarse French bobbin woven in the filling. curtain lace of Arabian origin, made Plumetis Embroidery in feather stitch of ecru cord with large patterns. over a clear and light ground. Point d'Armes An embroidery stitch Plumette French woolen or silk mixed used on transparent materials for dress goods, not fulled; obsolete. leaves and flowers, showing on the Plunket, Plonkete or Blunket. 1, in the face a hemstitch while the threads are crossed in the in closa 15th century a blue color; 2, under back a Edward VI a coarse woolen fabric. lattice fashion. Plunket Azures BUue woolens from Point dIAttache A variety of stitches In England. embroidery, by which fancy mate- rial is attached to the foundation. Plush 1, a warp pile fabric with a silk Point de Biais stitch con- or wool pile, made longer than that of Embroidery the velvet. There is no generally ac- sisting of slanting satin stitches made cepted rule as to the length of the of different length. pile, although in some parts of Europe Point Bisette Same as Bisette lace. if the pile is 16-100 of an inch, or Point de Brabancon lA flat filling used longer, it is considered plush, if short- in needle-point laces, consisting of er, velvet. Used for dresses, coats, dra- rows of buttonhole stitches linked to- pery, according to quality. Double gether. on both a term plush pile sides; 2, Point a Brides Generic term for laces used in knit see goods; single plush with bars in the ground. and double plush. Point Brode Bobbin lace made Plush Stitch A stitch applied in Berlin sprigs, with raised work. work to form a fringe along the edge of the embroidery and it is left either Point de Bruges See Bruges lace. in loop form or is cut. Point de Bruxelles^See Brussels lace. 1, the strand composing the thread Ply Point de Cable Same as rope stitch. or yarn, being usually twisted the opposite direction than the thread. The Point Cam pan Narrow French bobbin number of plies express the construc- lace edging of the 17th century. tion of the yarn; 2, the layer of fa- Point a Carreaux A French bobbin lace brics in a men's collar for instance. made with a simple, trellis-like pat- Pochote Very fine and lustrous fiber tern. yielded by the Eriodendron anfrac- Point de Chainette Same as chain stitch. tuosum in Mexico. It is similar to the de All laces a mesh kapok. The fiber is used for fine Point Champ having of cloth and for hats, in this case mixed ground, irrespective style. with rabbit's fur. Point de Chant See Point de Paris. Pocket Drill Stout, unbleached cotton Point Chaudieu In macrame lace a chain drill, used for pockets. bar, formed by looping one thread around the other. Pocketing Cotton velvet used for over- coat pockets; also napped cottons Point Chemin de Fer Same as railway used for the same purpose. stitch in embroidery. POI 124 POI

Point de Cone In lace guipure a cone Point de Genes 1, a species of Aetzstick- shaped form stretching over four erei (see), made on a wool ground; 2, square meshes and filled in with cloth a stitch over square mesh in needle- stitch. point lace; two or three threads are Point de Cordova A filling in needle-point stretched diagonally across several laces, made stretching three threads squares of the mesh and fastened to- close to each other and darning dote gether by darning. over. Point de Gerbe A stitch in guipure lace, Point de Cote Same as rope stitch. made by looping a thread several times around the opposite sides of Point Coute See Darned lace. a square mesh, forming buttonhole Point Crochet A lace made by crochet- loops on one side; the threads are ing; the various sprigs are made sep- drawn together at the middle in a arate and joined together with bars, buttonhole stitch. resulting in a guipure lace. Point de Gibeciere A bar in macrame Point Croise An embroidery stitch which lace formed by four threads, divided forms in the front rows of continuous into two even groups and looped over short stitches (like the hemstitch) each alternately. while the thread is crossed in the Point de Gobelin See Gobelin stitch. back. Point de Grecque^A ground in needle- Point de Croix Same as cross stitch. point laces, consisting of darned Point de Diable An embroidery stitch, square spots alternating with octag- consisting of a star with eight rays onal meshes. in a square. Point Guipure See guipure lace. Point de Dieppe Same as Dieppe point. Point de Havre Narrow French needle- Point Double See Point de Paris. point lace of the 17th and 18th cen- turies, similar to Valenciennes. Point Duchesse See Bruges lace. Point d'Hongrie French rug of hemp Point d'Echelle A of ladder stitch variety warp and silk filling with various fig- in embroideries in which the bars ures. are stitched across an open space. Point d'lrlande Inferior machine imita- Point d'Epine Same as feather stitch. tion of Venise lace. Point d'Escaliei Same as ladder stitch. Point Jesuit Crochet imitation of Venise Point d'Espagne Heavy guipure-like laces made in Ireland. needle-point lace of the 17th and 18th Point de Jours In embroidery open centuries somewhat resembling Point spaces with buttonholed edge and of or silver de Venise and made gold some filling. thread with thick cordonnet outlines. Point Lace iMade by the needle and Point d'Esprit 1, machine net with small thread. The term "point" applied also dots scattered all over; 2, light and to very fine bobbin laces. stitches in needle guipure laces, open Point Lache In consisting of loops forming various needle-point laces trian- of the patterns in the square meshes. gles filling half square meshes; they consist of rows of buttonhole Point d'Etoile iA stitch over square mesh stitches linked together. in needle-point laces; it is a ground Point Lance iAn more or less ornate star, covering embroidery made with broken in nine or 16 squares. short, straight and stitches colored wool. Point Evantail In guipure laces fan- Point de Malines '1, as Maline shaped spots formed by darning same lace; a used in stitches. 2, filling needle-point laces, consisting of small circles, button- Point Faisceau A heavy stitch in needle- holed all around and connected with point laces, consisting of herringbone each other in a zig-zag line. stitches joined with a loop in the Point Marli bobbin net used center. de A made as ground for bobbin laces in the Point de Feston A filling in needle-point 18th century. consisting of festoons fastened laces, Point de Same as cross stitch. with a knot at every loop. Marque Point de Medicis Old name for Italian de In raised macrame Point Feuillage lace with raised cordon- lace a bar made with four threads. needle-point net. Point de Filet A ground in needle-point Point In Mexican embroidery laces made by fastening loc-ps to each Mexique the outlining buttonhole stitch in other in buttonhole stitch, which form black or colored silk. a filet mesh. Point de Milan 'Lace with a small mesh Point de Flanders See Brussels lace. ground and large trailing scroll pat- Term applied to French tern. laces similar to the Point needle-point Point a la Minute Cross and star shaped in de Venise started by Colbert the stitches; used to fill in small spaces. 17th century. Point de Moscow Early Italian needle- Point de Gauze Very fine needle-point point laces in Russian designs. See mesh for Brussels lace. also . POI 125 POL

Point Natte 1, embroidery made with Point Russe Short straight stitches in pieces of bright satin appliqued on fancy embroidery, forming geometri- a dark foundation, the edges fast- cal patterns, Irke stars, diamonds, ened with braid; the pieces of satin crosses, etc. are embroidered in floss silk or wool Point de SableSee Point d'Armes. an stitch ar- yarn; 2, embroidery Point Saracene French tapestry made in in effect without ranged herringbone imitation of Turkish carpets. a center line. Point Serre A stitch in needle-point laces; lace of Point Neige 1, needle-point very the thread is carried diagonally across fine design ornamented with various each square mesh, looped and drawn loops and picots; 2, a crochet work, tight and carried across the following made with regular open places and meshes in zigzag line. stitches radiating from each open- Point de Sorrento Ground in needle-point ing; used for quilts and jackets. laces; it consist sof a series of long Point Net Xet made by the needle and loose loops, each worked around by used as ground for applique laces be- a number of loose buttonhole stitches, fore the invention of the . Point Tiellage A stitch in needle-point Point None Same as buttonhole stitch. laces; the thread is carried diagonal- across a mesh and twisted Point Noue In laces a knot- ly square needle-point half way around the knot in the cor- ted buttonhole stitch. ner and carried afterwards through Point Ondule Double bar in macrame the next mesh. A second thread is lace. carried between the same corners of as it is twisted the Point d'Or See Point de Pois. the squares, but opposite way around the corners, it Point de Paris 'Narrow French bobbin forms a slight angle with the first lace of the 17th century, similar to thread. Brussels. Point de Tigre Same as overcast stitch. Point de Paris Ground For black bobbin Point Tire See drawnwork. laces, consisting of hexagons and tri- Point de Toile See cloth stitch. angles. Point Tresse i!6th century pillow lace of Point Passe as satin stitch in em- Same human hair. broidery. Point de Tricot In crocheting forming Point Pecheur Italian bobbin lace, made large open squares by chain stitches; in white or black, similar to the Mal- used for fancy quilts, made of heavy tese lace. wool yarn. Point Perle Same as satin stitch. Point de Tulle 1, see Mignonette; 2. a laces. Point Plat In laces such patterns which very fine ground in needle-point have no raised parts. Point Turc 1, a filling in needle-point of rows of interlinked Point Plat 'Modern laces, consists Applique Belgium fastened to threads; lace of bobbin made festoons straight sprigs applied as ladder stitch in embroid- to machine-made net. 2, same ery. Point de Plume A padded satin stitch. Point de Valenciennes 1, same as Valen- Point Plumetis Same as feather stitch. ciennes lace; 2, a filling in needle- of sep- Point de Pois 'An embroidery stitch, con- point laces, consisting squares sisting of small dots. arated by open work; the squares are made of rows of buttonhole Point de Poste See Point de Pois. stitches linked together.

Point de Pyramide Same as Point da 1, the finest of the Cone. needle-point laces, the characteristics Point de Raccroc Same as Raccroc being the padded cordonnets, the de- stitch. sign often being raised repeatedly, the great variety and fineness of the Point de Ragusa Same as Ragusa lace. stitches and the rich ornamentation of Point de Repasse See cloth stitch. the edges of the patterns and the brides with picots and stars; 2, a fill- Point de Reprise A filling in needle-point ing in needle-point laces, consisting of laces, consisting of darned triangular rows of festoons, the loops in every spots. alternate row being fastened with Point a Reseau Needle-point lace, the four buttonhole stitches. pattern being formed by the meshes of Pointed Twill >A twill weave, producing the ground. a zig-zag effect. Point de Riz In embroidery short, irreg- Pointille 'French for small dots. ularly scattered stitches with a fan- Polarin In England curl pile fabrics with cied resemblance to rice. a cut mohair pile. Point de Rose 1, one of the most deli- Poldavis Coarse, plain woven linen; used cate needle made in laces, originally in England. Venice, where the art revived of late. The beautiful and intricate patterns Polemieten See Dutch camlet. are made in raised effect, connected Polemite Holland and French solid col- with bars; 2, a stitch in embroidery, ored camlet, made of two-ply Angora consisting of broad buttonhole stitches warp and worsted filling, forming over a padded surface. cross ribs. POL 126 POW

Polish Rugs 'Made in Warsaw in the 16th Pontiac Dark gray, stoutly knitted and century in a factory established by waterproof woolen fabric; used for Mersherski. The pile is of silk having skirts and coats for outdoor wear. gold and silver weft threads inter- woven. Pontivy Obsolete French linen shirting of various grades. ux stout French linen Poll sea 'Coarse, Poor Man's Commercial canvas of various widths. variety of me- dium maturing upland cotton from Polished Twine Two-ply coarse hemp or California, the staple measuring 22-24 flax twine with a smooth finish; used millimeters; the yield is 34-36 per In stores to tie packages with. cent. Polishing >A finishing process in which Poplin 1, the real Irish poplin originally the yarn is stretched and given a had fine organzine warp and a heav- smooth surface and gloss with starch, ier woolen filling, forming cross ribs; wax, etc. 2, fabrics having fine, cross ribs ir- of the Round printed dots differing respective material they are made of. The better in color from the ground. grades are dyed in the yarn; used for coats, dresses, dots Polka Gauze Swivel embroidered etc. Single poplin has very fine cross used scattered over a gauze ground; ribs, the double poplin is much for dresses, etc. stouter and has prominent ribs. Polledavy Unbleached French hemp sail- Poplinette In England a variety of cloth. grenadine, similar to a very light pop- Pollock Commercial variety of fairly lin. early maturing American cotton, the Porcelain Lace Lace steeped in thick staple measuring 35-40 millimeters. solution of kaolin and fired which de- the fibers but leaves the soft and loosely stroys porce- Polo Cloth Double faced, lain behind. woven woolen cloth; the nap is raised Port and shorn. Philip Fine Australian merino wool. Port Cabello cotton Corded silk dress goods, made Raw from Colom- Polonaise bia. in France. Porto Rico Cotton Has Bobbin lace made of fine silk silky, soft, Polychrome white staple, in the In- colors. grown West threads of various dies. Polyreflets French plush having patterns Poster Rug Woven of rags with white of the produced by the inclination warp, having borders in several col- pile at different angles. ors, showing landscapes, flowers, etc. on silks and Pompadour Design mostly Pot A length of usually 10,000 yards, in ribbons, showing bouquets soft, into which pieces of linen are sewed shades. together previous to bleaching. woolen Pompadour Serge English serge Pota Species of the Pandanus in the with small flower patterns. Solomon Islands; used for the finest Pompadour Taffeta Rich dress silk mats. originated under Louis XV., having Potassium Chlorate Used to oxidize ani- wide satin or ribbed stripes on a line black. taffeta foundation with large, bright Potassium Used for colored flowers, often executed in Permanganate bleaching wool. pile. Potten Kant (Characteristic pattern of 1, a narrow woolen blanket, and woolen the Antwerp lace (see), consisting of made with cotton warp a or vase and conventionalized well being pot .filling napped and fulled, the used in flowers. Originally pattern pic- made quite waterproof; tured the Annunciation. camping; 2, cotton or woolen fabric, made in plain, twill or rep weave with Poulangy Coarse and stout French fringes at the ends, usually with cof- twilled suiting, made in solid colors fee brown stripes; used as overcoat with linen warp and woolen filling. in Argentine, Uruguay and Paraguay, Pouldavid French sailcloth of hemp for the having a slit in the center (same as Polledavy). head. Poult de la Reine Very heavy silk dress in the Pondicherry Dyed cotton goods goods, woven with a pebbled surface. African markets. Poult de Soie Solid colored silk fabric, 'Plain woven, light weight fabric, made in plain weave with a two-ply in India and made of ecru wild silk warp and a heavier filling containing China; used for dresses. more than two strands and forming used for dresses. Pongee Imperial A rich, plain woven cross ribs; and highly finished silk dress goods, Pounce To raise the nap on a felt hat made of pongee silk. with emery paper. cotton Pongee Print A fine and light Similar to the soutache braid with Pouritache goods with a soft finish, printed only much heavier. stripes and dots; used in South Af- narrow French lace, rica. Poussin Very light, similar to Valenciennes. Ponson Velvet Heavy velvet, made all Dotted strewn all silk or only with silk pile; used for Powdering pattern women's coats and cloaks. over the fabric. ROW 127 PRU

Powel Davies See Poldavis. Printing A great variety of processes for ' textiles of all Prayer Rugs Oriental rug of usually decorating descriptions to certain various small size; used by tie Moslems to by applying parts colors or can be kneel on when praying. The chief chemicals. Printing to the sliver for mixture characteristic is the representation of applied yarn effect to the or a niche' o-r arched doorway at one (see Vagoureux) warp to the end, sometimes with the or woven fabric. a lamp hanging from the middle; oc- Printing- differs from dyeing inas- as it casionally there are only three me- much applies the color or chem- ical to certain dallions, two for the knees and one only parts of the tex- for the head. tile by means of engraved cylinders or blocks while in dyeing the textiles Precieuse Plain woven striped silk dress are submerged in the color; the two goods. processes, however, are applied to- Prein A German process by which the gether in many processes. shearing of the goods is eliminated With the exception of India and by pressing all irregular fibers into other Oriental countries and a few of the body of the cloth while it is in expensive lines silks where hand the loom. printing is still in use by means of blocks; nr-inting is done by machinery, Prelate French sailcloth and tent can- with a different engraved roll for each vas, made of hemp and coated with color in the design. See also Perro- tar. tine printing. Premium Commercial variety of early The fabrics are being prepared In maturing upland cotton, the staple a variety of ways before printed on. measuring 23-27 millimeters; the Woolens are often chlorinated to in- yield is 32-33 per cent; also called crease their affinity for dyes or are Peerless. treated in weak solution of ammonia. Linens are scoured in soda or lime. President A double woolen fabric, the Cottons are always singed and often face made with cotton warp and bleached. They are also often woolen filling in five-leaf satin weave, mordanted or mercerized or scoured the back with an extra mohair filling in soda or lime. in two and one weave. The more important styles of print- President Braid A twilled woven braid ing are: The pigment printing, where insoluble colors are fixed to the with diagonal ribs; used for trim- ming. fabric by means of albumen; discharge printing where parts of a previously Presidents In Europe napped woolen dyed ground are destroyed by chem- fabrics, made with a large proportion icals applied in printing; mordant of shoddy or mungo. printing for basic colors; resist print- where the fabric is with Press A finishing process, consisting in ing, printed some ctipmical which the sub- pressing the fabric between heated prevents to take plates or cylinders. sequently applied dye effect on certain parts of the cloth. These Press Cloth A strong camels' hair cot- styles are combined in various ways. ton or linen fabric, plain woven; used Prolific A now obsolete commercial generally for filtering. variety of upland cotton, also called Prexillas Crudas Gray or half bleached Vick and Sugar Loaf. canvas in Spain and Latin America; made of flax waste. Promenette French woolen ribbons. Prime Merino clothing wool taken from Prunella 1, name for the 2-1 warp face sides of a very fine fleece or shoulder twill; 2, an all-worsted English fab- of a good fleece. ric of the 18th and 19th centuries, woven in three-end twill and usually Princess Stuff Obsolete English dress dyed in dark purple color; used for goods, made with two-ply goats' hair clergymen's clothes, women's shoe silk warp and filling. tops, etc.; 3, at the present a very faced made of Princesse Four-leaf silk satin dress sirong, warp- fabric, all-worsted or with cotton in goods, made with single warp. filling a satin weave and is used for shoe Princesse Cashmere 'French cotton dress tops; it is similar to everlasting. fabric, made in imitation of cash- Prunelle 1, an obsolete, very fine French mere. wool dress fabric, made with a hard Princetta An English worsted fabrK' in spun, two-ply warp and a three or the 19th century, made with silk warp five-ply silk filling; it was usually dress and worsted filling; originally made dyed black; 2, a French -serge of pure worsted. fabric of the early part of the 19th century, made with 12 ends and 6 Prints Generic name for printed cotton picks in a repeat; 3, French for fabrics, as a different class from prunella (see). white goods. They come in warp and calico prints in a greit variety of Prunelle Batarde Plain French serge, weaves, either with fast selvag-3 or made with 8 or 10 ends and four or made as splits. five picks in a repeat. PRU 128 QUA

Prussian Binding In England, made with Purdah 1, East Indian, blue and white silk face and cotton back and is striped cotton-; used for curtains, of- twilled diagonally; is used as bind- ten painted by hand; 2, closely wov- ing on waterproofs and coats. en, but very fine cotton or linen veil, Prussian Shawls Frinsed, twilled cotton worn by the women of hierh caste in shawls printed in Oriental designs in India. England. Pure Dye In the trade silk which does contain ex- Prussian Velvet A German pile fabric, not other foreign matter made with cotton or linen warp and cept the dye. mohair filling, which forms the pile. Pure Finish Is without any weighting or Prussienne French silk dress goods dressing. originated in the middle of the 18th Purl 1, gold or silver embroidery thread century, made with brocaded figures constructed like a spiral spring; 2, formed by the warp; obsolete. see Bar. Pua Hemp Very strong bast fiber, re- Purl Knitting Framework knitting, the sisting water; found in Assam, Bur- loops formed in reverse direction, both mah, Japan, etc., where it is used sides of the fabric looking alike. for fishing nets, ropes, twine, bags, Purling Early English name for narrow etc. edgings made in a loose plaited fash- Puckered 'Cockled cloth. ion. Pudding Cloth Plain woven bleached Purnellow 18th century English fabric cotton fabric in England; used in made of all worsted. cooking. Purse Silk Thick silk thread, made Pugliese Variety of inferior raw cotton smooth and soft; used for embroid- from South Italy. ery. Puke A woolen fabric worn during the Purshed Velvet 'Medieval term for velvet Middle Ages in England. the pile of which was raised in a net Pulled Wool Removed from the skin of pattern. killed sheep through "painting" the Purumu Fine, silky bast fiber, yielded by fleshy part with lime. the Sida carpinifolia in the Canary Pullicate Pale orange colored cotton Islands; used for cordage locally. end handkerchief, made during the Pushmina or Pushum See Pashim. of the 18th and beginning of the 19th century In England for the South PutEast Indian knotted rugs, made of American markets. fine white wool. Pulling Cotton A test to determine the Putang 'Narrow, very coarse homespun length, strength and uniformity of cotton cloth made in China. of the in cotton length fibers, buying Puttee >A tubular, plain knit fabric with for mills. small of cotton A quantity fleece lining. The latter is formed by is with two the pulled apart hands, catching an extra heavy, slack twist fibers from projecting long separated yarn, which remains straight, by some the rest and broken between two of the loops; this yarn is napped in hands to test the strength. the finishing. Pullom seed hair of the Silky, yellowish Puttoo East Indian inferior wool cloth; Bombax tree in Africa. 1, used for shawls; 2, East Indian infer- Pulu Soft, brown fibers, lustrous, Ions ior goats' wool; 3, French dress goods stalks of the obtained from the leaf and coating of thick but light texture, for stuf- fern tree of Hawaii; used having a long nap which is of a light- fing. er color than the body. Punched Felt Wool stock of short staple Puy Lace (French bobbin lace, made in a but felting property is attached good great variety, mostly in black and to both sides of a barbed burlap by white and also in silk guipures. needles. The wool is then felted. Also called needle felt. Puyuenchow Another native Chinese term for made in widths of Punpee Chinese unfinished taffeta. See pongee, 30 and 32 inches and boiled out after iPong'ee. weaving. Pun jam Unbleached or piece dyed, close- ly woven, East Indian cotton cloth. Pylaken Obsolete English fulled cloth. Punta Arenas Very good, spongy and Pyrenean Wool Coarse Spanish wool; bulky wool, grown in the Terra del used for carpets. Fuego; used for knit goods. P unto 'Spanish and Italian for mesh or lace. Punto Aquila lA medieval Italian linen lace, made in the Abruzzi mountains. Q It was a bobbin lace, somewhat simi- lar to the English point, showing de- signs with raised edges, both the de- sign and the net ground, being made at the same time of fine, bleached, QuadrilleFrench for checked. hand spun linen yarn. Qualin 'See Kalin. Early Italian name for Quality Binding A strong, twilled, wide needle-point lace. tape, made of coarse worsted; used Punto o Tul Cotton tulle in Venezuela. for binding carpets. QUA 129 RAI

Quarantain Fine French woolen cloth, Used for hats and as sub- originally of 4,000 warp ends. stitute of vicuna, for shawls, etc. Quarter Means nine inches; a standard Raccroc Stitch Used in joining the sep- in measuring the width of woolens arately executed pieces of lace to- and worsteds in the U. S. gether into a larger piece. Quarter Diamond An 18th century pure Race In pile fabrics the narrow space worsted in England. between two adjoining rows of pile Quatre Fils Very strong French sail Racked Stitch Same as shogged (see). cloth, made with four-ply warp. Radames See Rhadames. Quebradinho Sort of raw cotton, grown Radio Plain woven lustrous lightweight, Brazil. on trees in sheer French silk dress goods, comes Queddeng Coarse Philippine fiber; used printed or dyed. for cordage. Radzimir A very fine, lustrous, stout silk Queen Commercial variety of upland dress fabric in England, made in the cotton, from Arkansas, staple plain weave but weft ribs; it is usual- 22-25 the measuring millimeters; ly dyed black and used for mourn- 34-36 cent. yield is per ing. Trade term for a fine Queen's Cloth Raffia Tough fibrous strips, yielded by in Jamaica; bleached cotton shirting the epidermis of certain palms in a wide. usually yard Africa; used for plaited goods, ma/ts, Queen Cord Stout, ribbed cotton trouser- etc. ing, made in England; obsolete. Rag Rug Made of strong cotton warp Queen's Silk Rich, English dress silk of and stripes of various colored rags, black color; obsolete. forming patterns. Queen Stitch Used in embroidery, con- Rags Are classified': Carpets, skirting sists of a square inside of another (women's dress goods and men's lin- with parallel sides. ing), merino (very fine women's Queensland Hemp 'Fine, strong fiber dress goods), flannel, linsey (all yielded by the sida plant in Aus- other wool fabrics containing cotton), tralia. serge (braids, tresses, etc ), new (new Quenkas Highly finished warp striped clippings from tailors), rubbish (the Indian silk satins. lowest grades of rags). Each of this is sorted to colors. Quercitron A bright yellow mordant again according dyestuff, yielded by the bark of an Ragusa Lace (Dalmatian needle-point oak, Quercus tinctoria, in Southern lace of early origin, eimilar to the United States. Point Venise. At the present pat- terns formed of picot edge silk or Quill Embroidery See Canadian em- are united with brides to broidery. gold tape form laces. Quilot The fine, white and glossy inner Canvas Black or white and fiber, yielded by the abaca plant: Railroad used for very flne fabrics by the na- considerably sized cotton or linen used tives, but only little of it is found on fabric made with open texture; the market. for embroidery. Quilt Bleached cotton or linen fabrics Railway Stitch Similar to leviathan woven in fancy designs, either as a stitch (see). single cloth, or reversible or as pad- Rainbow Effect Produced in calico print- ded fabrics. ing by the different colored fields Quilting See Matelasse. shaded into each other at the edges. Quinette Light weight French camlet, Raincloth Twilled or satin weave light made of all wool, or mixe I with poats' cotton, wool or silk cloth, dyed in the hair; obsolete. It was used for piece and made waterproof by rub- skirts and lining. ber, oils, etc Used for raincoats. Quintain Very fine lawn, made in Q., Rainproof Same as waterproof. and France; used for embroideries Raised Colors In vari- laces. ous dyestuffs which are treated after Quintes The best grade of French linen. printing, in a bath which will fix or Quomotanetu Very strong bast fiber, develop the color. yielded by a species of the Asclepia- Raised Embroidery Made with padded daceae in South Africa. or raised patterns over a flat founda- tion. Raised Fabric Same as napped goods. Raised Stitch In Berlin work, is called also velvet stitch and is a variety of R the plush stitch (see); it is suitable for raised wool work. The loops are being cut and brushed, imitating the pile of the velvet. Raised Velvet 'Having the pattern form- Rabattue Light and thin French linen ed by a higher pile than that cov- fabric. ering the ground. See pile over pile. Rabanna A coarse fabric made of raffia Raised Work 'In hand-made laces the fibres in Madagascar. raised edge of the sprigs. RAI 130 REB

Raising The process of forming a nap Ras de Saint Maur Black French serge on a fabric by scratching or brush- of silk warp and silk, cotton or wool ing. filling; was used for mourning; made Rajahs-Silk dress goods having nubs in single faced or taffeta back; obso- the texture, similar to pongee. lete. Rajmahal Hemp Very sEroujr, fine, silky Rasete Sateens in Venezuela. fibre, yielded by the Marsdenia tena- Rash 1, inferior silk cloth in England, cissima in India; used for bowstrings often mixed with wool; obsolete; 2, and ropes. 16th century, very fine and costly Ram's Wool Shorn from male sheep; it English worsted. is stronger than other wool. Raso Italian for satin. Ramage 'French for branching patterns. Rateen English all-wool lining Rambouillet French merino wool of lus- serge, similar to frieze. trous, strong, long staple. Ratine 1, all-wool or cotton over- Rameses -Commercial variety of early warp coating, the heavy fleecy formed maturing upland cotton, the staple nap, by the weft, is rubbed into nubs in measuring up to 26 millimeters; the the finishing process; 2, coarse, ma- yield is 32-33 per cent. chine made cotton lace, the design Rameta 'Strong stem fiber of the Lasio- being made in terry weave. siphon speciosus, a tree in East India; Rattail round used for ropes. Narrow, soutache, used for trimming. Ramie Very strong, fine and durable bast 'An fiber of white silky color, yielded exceedingly strong, tough by the Boehmeria plant of the nettle and durable fibre, obtained in strips family, growing in China, America, from the stem of the rotang palm in etc. It is difficult to decorticate. Asia and Africa; used for chair seats, Owing to its porousness it is used for baskets, cordage, etc. underwear. Ratti Coating A coarse twilled woolen Rampoor Chuddah Very fine and soft fabric. East Indian twilled woolen dress goods Rattinet Obsolete thin French woolen in red, white and gray colors; also lining serge. a fine shawl. Raumois Coarse and unbleached French Ran 20 1, rope measure, yards; 2, silky, ticking. long fibre, yielded by the Malachra capitata in tropical Africa and Amer- Ravensduck Cotton sail cloth. ica; used as substitute for jute. Raw 1, ginned cotton, as it is sold in Rancheria Grass used for mats, baskets, the bale; 2, wool without being etc., by the Indians in the North- scoured; 3, silk after reeled from the western States. cocoon but before it is boiled off or twisted. Random Yarn Fancy filling yarn, having a strand wound around a different Rawaye Strong , yielded by the colored core. Cochlospermum in West Africa; used for ropes. Rangoon 'East Indian cotton, having a short and weak staple of dull and Ray Striped woolen fabric extensively stained brown color; contains much used in England for clothing during leaf. the 12th century and afterward. Orig- inally it was made with warp stripes; Ranter All-worsted fabric, made in Eng- later, under Edward n, with weft land during the 18th century. stripes. It came originally from Rap A skein, containing 120 yards of Flanders. yarn. Rayadillos Wide cotton goods in the Rapatelle Open-work horsehair cloth, Philippines, made usually in narrow used for sifting flour. blue and white warp stripes. Ras Name of various twilled French Raye French for striped. worsteds or serges; made either en- Rayleigh Irregular bars in guipure lace. tirely smooth or only slightly napped. Also a lightweight, slightly fulled Raynes Very fine linen of French origin, woolen cloth, both absolete. used in England for shirts and bed- ding during the 15th century. See Ras de French silk dress Cypre goods Cloth of Raynes. with cross ribs; comes usually in black. Raypour Raw silk from East India. Ras de Florence Fine woolen men's Rebayn Medieval English name for fab- wear, woven in fancy colored twills. rics woven with gold patterns over blue silk made at Ras de Maroc Narrow and ground, Cologne, lightweight Germany. French serge, made of Spanish wool. Reben A medieval fine cloth of un- Ras de Perse French woolen dress goods, known texture. little fulled; obsolete. 1, shawl, made of knitted silk Ras de Saint Cyi Four-leaf, gray col- or wool, worn by Mexican women; 2, ored, single face French serge of silk fulled woolen fabric, usually black, warp and silk wool or cotton filling; navy or dark green, used for skirts obsolete. by the natives in Colombia. REC 131 RET

Recouvees Stout French linon of natural Rehani Cotton fabric woven with a bor- reddish color. der of dark blue, yellow and green Recovered Wool Obtained by converting stripes and red silk body, used in woolen rags into fibers by tearing East Africa. them up and reworking them again. Reinforced Hosiery Is knitted at the toe Shoddy and mungo are recovered and heel in such a manner as to pre- wool. vent unraveling of the fabric if the Red Peruvian Cotton having a harsh, stitches wear out. of brown color. wiry staple golden Rembrandt Rib 'Women's hosiery made Red Tape Cotton tape of red color used with lengthwise rows of five drop in English law offices to tie bundles stitches alternating with inch-wide of papers with. strips of plain knitting. in similar Reed Rake Flaw the cloth, Remeta Strong, white bast fiber, yielded to a pin scratch. by the Lasiosiphon eriocephalus in Reedy Flaw in the cloth, caused by sev- India. one eral warp ends running through Renaissance Cloth Term used in France dent. to denote cloth made of shoddy. Reel Linen to yarn measure, equal 72,- Modern the 000 yards. lace, pat- tern being formed of very open tape in the Reeling A preparatory process with one kind of filling and bars. manufacture of silk, consisting in placing the unbroken cocoons in hot Renforce Strong, stout French sail cloth. water and unwinding the single fila- Rengue Fine cloth made of pineapple ments several of which are joined side fibre In the Philippines. by side, without any twist and kept To Renter To restore damaged tapestry together by the natural gum of the new silk. through inserting warp. Refin French term for the best grades Rep Cotton, wool or silk fabric woven of wools of any certain class. with heavier weft than warp, produc- ing ribbed effect. Refine Very fine napped woolen fabric, used for livery. Rep Stitch See Persian cross-stitch. Refleuret French term for best grade Repeat An entire, completed pattern wool. which is repeated over again in the Reformee Stout French sail cloth. fabric, embroidery or lace. Refoulets Obsolete fine French lining Repellent Stout, waterproofed woolen serge, made 20 inches wide. coating.

Regain Average normal moisture which Reps 1, French drapery velvet made of the fibre should contain, as for in- cotton and wool; obsolete; 2, A stance: cotton, raw or yarn, 8% per French silk fabric, having organzine cent; linen, 12 per cent; carded wool warp, the ribs are either warp or and wool waste, 18V4 per cent; wool cross ribs. 17 worsted yarn, per cent; yarn, 18^4 Requet Bleached French linen used for cent; jute, cent; silk, per 13% per bedding, etc. 11 per cent; noil, 14 per cent. Rere white bast fibres of th* A or checked cotton Fine, Regatta striped Cypholophus macrocephalus in the fabric, made in England with a two Pacific Islands; used for clothing and face twill and well one, warp mats by the natives. starched filling; used for aprons, chil- dren's dresses, etc; 2, woolen fabric, Rereal 'Certain Chinese silks which are made with alternating gray and col- given a second reeling after the first ored or blue and white stripes of one performed by unskilled native equal width. workers. Good blue Regatta Stripes quality, equal Reseau See Net. and white striped calico used in England as dress goods. Reseau Rosace Ground of the Argentan lace (see). Regency Point A Bedfordshire bobbin lace, made during the 19th century, Reserve Dye Same as resist dyeing. with thick with a edge, originally Resist Dyeing The principle of this pro- tape design on reseau ground, later cess of dyeing follows: The fabric with and raised plaited ground pat- Is first printed with some chemical terns similar to the Maltese laces. which will resist to the subsequently Regenerated Wool -See under mungo and applied dye on the places where it shoddy. was applied. Regny Fine and durable French linen Reticella or Greek Point An early form made in R. of lace, showing cut and .drawn work connected Regrettas Narrow cotton goods, mostly with button-holed edges in narrow blue and white stripes and with brides. blue filling; used in the Philippine Retting Process to separate the linen Islands. fibres from the woody parts in the Regular Twill Trade name for 45 de- flax straw. It is done by steeping gree twill weave, without any fancy in water or by exposing the straw to figure. dew. REV 132 ROA

Reveche Plain woven, soft French wool Ribstillos Silk and velvet ribbons on cloth of English origin, having a the long Western coast of South America. nap, often curled, on one side. Later Rice Braid made in twilled or serge weave A braid consisting of a core with yarn a soft, spongy, fulled body. having alternately thick and thin places, entirely covered with a fine Revennes Strong stout sail cloth in yarn wound around. It comes usual- France. in ly white, but also in color and is Reverse 1, coarse, loosely woven French mostly of cotton; used for trimming woolen with napped face, similar to and fancy work. flannel; used for cheap clothing- 2 Rice Cloth A plain woven cotton fabric the back of the cloth. made with hard spun warp and a fine Reversed Twill Twill weaves with the novelty yarn, the latter having heav- ier warp thread predominating on the places at close intervals. The cloth is face. Used in cotton and linen goods. somewhat similar to a fine ratine and comes in Reverses (Medieval solid color and English worsted fab- in printed effect. ric. Rice Stitch Same as point de riz. Reversible Double faced fabrics. Richardson Commercial variety of Reversible Damask See damask. American cotton, same as Jones Long Staple. Reversible Imperial or Reversible Satin A stout cotton fabric woven in 8- Richelieu Ribbed women's hosiery, made leaf with satin weave, containing many lengthwise rows of single drop picks in an inch, the weft forming stitch alternating with strips of plain the face on both sides. It is usually knitting three-quarter inch wide. napped on one side. Richelieu Embroidery White embroidery Rex- made with Finished Cotton velvet finished by padded outlines in imita- and tion of the Venise laces. dissolving precipitating upon it a portion of its own cellulose, clos- Richelieu Guipure ' with open ing the ends of the fibres, used for patterns buttonholed along the edge burnishing cloth. and joined with bars. Rickrack Rhadames Stout and lustrous silk or Flat braid made in zig-zag cotton mixed dress goods, made with form. fine diagonal twill and dyed in solid Ricotti Waste silk obtained from the in- colors. ner smooth skin of the cocoon after Rhadzimii See Radzimir. reeling. Rhea See Ramie. Ride Cords Very strong English twilled trousering having ribs. Rhodomelina A medieval silk fabric, half warp R| and half dyed pink and yellow. 9 To fol d wide pieces of finished cloth in the center and to wind Riabaul East Indian narrow and coarse them up. cotton An fabric. Rigby English waterproofing pro- cess, usually to Rib A usually straight raised cord in applied woolens. textiles, formed by threads which are Right Hand Twist Yarn twisted to the heavier than the others either in the right hand. or in warp weft, formed also by Rikmah In the Bible denotes needle- grouping several warps through the work, the pattern being appliqued to same reed or passing more than one the ground. llmg through the same shed. Rimo A fine, silky white Riband Obsolete cotton, grown for ribbon. in the valley of Senegal. Ribbed Knitting Knitted fabrics, made Silk satin in Japan. with the loops of each row al- Rio lying Grande 1, Brazilian cotton a ternately to the face and back of having the harsh, white staple; fabric, forming ribs. 2, commercial variety of upland cotton, the Ribbon staple A narrow fabric, made mostly of measuring 18-22 millimeters- the cotton, wool, silk or artificial silk in yield is 34-36 per cent. a very great variety of weaves. The Rio de Janeiro main Variety of raw cot- difference between ribbons and ton from Brazil. the narrowest dress fabrics is that Ripon Lace Coarse the former are used English bobbin lace, only for trim- now obsolete. ming and not as material for the gar- ment. As to width ribbons are meas- Ripple Cloth Another name for zibeline. ured by the line, one-eleventh part Riqueza Herbaceous cotton from Brazil of an inch, which is the standard, al- giving rich yield. though in Europe some of the houses Risty or R iffy Variety of raw cotton adapt various actual width for the from the Levant. line. In England the old Coventry Rivers General trade name for method of measuring width of rib- raw cot- ton with a good bon, taking the thickness of the old body, measuring from 1 1-16 to 1% and English penny as is inches, grown along basis, still in the and vogue for sarcenet ribbons. The Mississippi Arkansas rivers. length of a piece of ribbon in the Rizee Linen fabric made in Asia Minor, trade is often 10 yards, in England used for veils, shirts, etc. usually 36 and for yards velvet rib- Roannes Made of cotton and linen in bons, 18 yards. France; used for bedding. ROB 133 ROU

Rob Roy A Highland tartan adapted and Roman Stripes Bright and contrasting worn by Rob Roy. It is composed of colored stripes on fabrics, mostly silk. alternate red and black stripes of Rombowline iln nautics condemned can- equal width. vas or rope.

Robbings Wool of greater length than Rondelette 1, inferior French cloth made noil, removed during the combing of waste silk; 2, sort of French linen process. fabric. Robertson A Highland tartan, composed Rone Variety of stitches in quipure lace, * as follows: dark blue stripe; nar- made like wheels and spider stitch. as row red line; dark green stripe, Felt Made of coarse animal * three Roofing hair, ; red wide as the blue field, wool or asbestos often saturated with times wider than the green stripe, tar; used for roofing. split near each edge by a narrow Made of blue stripe (spaced from the edge its Rope cotton, hemp, flax, jute, from one-third inch own width), and also split in the etc., measuring to four inches in diameter. center by a pair of fine, green lines; The strands are twisted in a diffefent di- repeat, in reversed order, stripes rection that of mentioned above between two '. from the original See also shroud cotton yarns. rope, hawser, Robes 64 square twilled fabric, cable. printed in bright colored patterns, Silk Slack and left unfinished; used for - Rope twist, thick silk yarn, used for pers,, kimonos, robes, etc., now mostly embroidery. for drapery purposes. Rope Stitch In embroidery short and Rochelles 'French linen used for bedding, slanting stitches placed in such a manner to imitate of shirts, etc. the twist a rope. Rococo Embroidery Applique needlework Rose A Highland tartan, composed as follows: Black having plain patterns buttonholed stripe; dark blue of with bright colored floss silk over stripe same width; narrow red blue ecru linen or satin, the foundation is stripe; dark stripe, as above; then cut away. black stripe, as above; green stripe, as above; group (narrower than Rococo Lace 18th century bobbin lace green stripe), consisting of a black stripe made flat in rococo style. edged with narrow white stripes; Rod Smith Now obsolete long stapled green stripe, as above. commercial variety of upland cotton Rose Point See point de rose. from Mississippi. Roseberry A stout but light waterproof Rodinum A medieval, pink colored silk mercerized cotton fabric, having weft fabric. stripes; used for coats. Rodondos iBleached linen in South Rosecran French linen. America. Obsolete, figured Roses Obsolete lightweight and narrow Roe commercial variety 'Early maturing French made of silk of cotton from the fabrics, wool, upland Louisiana, and with small rose 25-30 linen, woven pat- staple measuring millimeters; terns. the yield is 28-30 per cent. Rosetta An 18th woolen fabric Yarn A colored strand of wors- century Rogue's in England. ted twisted in the rope manufactured for the use of the British .navy. Rosette Fine, bleached and figured French linen; obsolete. Rohun Strong, reddish fibre, yielded by the bastard cedar in India; used for Ross A Highland tartan, composed as follows: red ropes. Wide stripe, split by two groups of narrow blue lines (each Roll 1, bleached English linen of medium group consisting of three lines, of quality; 2, sort of obsolete English which the center ones are heavier) ; melton. * dark green stripe, measuring seven- Roll and Chain (or Rolland Chaine) tenth-s of the width of the wide red Fine twilled English woolen having stripe, and divided into three even warp ribs; obsolete. parts by two narrow red lines; red Rollette Very fine linen, sort of heavy ba- stripe (being three-fifths of the first tiste, made in Holland and Belgium. red stripe), split in the center by a * pair of green lines ; dark blue Remain Closely woven, six-leaf, French the width and same satin lining or dress goods, made with stripe, split being as of the green in re- single warp. stripe; repeat, versed order, the group mentioned Indian silk taffeta. Romal East plain above between the two *. In Romal Handkerchief 'Linen or cotton Rostano Silk fabric, interwoven with blue plaid patterns. gold or silver threads, made in Spain. Roman double faced car- Carpet Woven, Rouane Bleached household linen in pet, made with weft figures; woven France. usually in squares. See also Scotch carpet. Rouenneries French trade term, original- Roman Embroidery The conventional ly applied to cottons, dyed in the yarn, patterns are buttonholed with silk to later to all printed cottons, and lin- match the ecru foundation. The rest ens. is cut away and the different parts Rouge In Austria and Germany a plain of the pattern are joined with plain woven cotton fabric, made of fine bars. yarn; used for trimming. ROD 134 RUS

Peruvian Rough Cotton, having very Rumburg Linen A Fine Austrian linen, clean, moderately strong but harsh the fineness and number of yarns in and wiry staple of a light cream color. the warp and weft are alike. Round Twill It is based on the satin Rumchundei Various East Indian silk weave, forming round diagonal ribs. dress goods in white and cream with dots for Rouzet or Roustet Coarse strong French patterns. woolen used for cheap clothing. Rumswizzel Frieze coating made of nat- ural wool in Ireland. Roving A slishtly twisted, soft and thick rope, more drawn out and twisted Run The unit in the American system than the stubbing. of woolen yarn count, meaning 1,600 yards of yarn in a hank, the number of 'Flaw in Rowdy cloth, consisting of hanks giving the count. streaks. yarn Run Lace English, 18th century lace of Royal Armure A narrow, stout silk dress bobbin-made net foundation with pat- fabric, woven with a pebbled face. terns embroidered upon it with the Royal Axminster A carpet having a needle. tufted cut pile, formed by the loom. Run Work A needlework, consisting in Royal Cashmere Fine English summer running white or colored thread dress goods of wool warp and worsted through the meshes of a net to form filling. a design. Russaline 18th Royal Rib 'Same as cardigan. century woolen fabric in Ensland. Royale Silk dress goods, similar to gros Russell In de Tours, made with two the 19th century a stout harnesses, worsted four warp ends in each . in England, woven with double warp and single filling in a In a stout Royalette England fabric five-end twill; used for women's made cotton with warp and Botany boots, shoes, petticoats and men's filling, woven in five-leaf weft satin vests. weave. Russel Cord Union fabric made with Sort of Roybon French casimir. cotton warp and worsted filling, two ends run Rozelle Hemp 'Strong silky bast fibre, warp being through each yielded by the Hibiscus sabdariffa in dent, forming cords. India; ueed for ropes, etc. Russet 1, a gray or reddish brown coarse English under Cotton ponchos in Columbia, homespun King John and later; an 18th made in plain weave, usually nar- 2, century pure worsted fabric in row woven stripes placed three-quar- England. ter inch apart. Russia Braid Made of silk or mohair for embroidery Rubanet English woolen and worsted purposes. vesting; obsolete. Russia Crash Coarse, strong, plain wo- ven unbleached cloth made of Rubber Cloth Cotton fabric, rubberized hemp or coarse linen yarn. Used for tow- on one side, used for raincoats in the els, coats, etc. lighter weights and suit eases and car- riage trimmings in the coarser grades. Russia Rope Commercial name for un- tarred cables and of Rubber Velvet Consists of a rubberized cordage hemp. cloth ground over which colored flock Russia Sail Duck Strong flax or hemp is blown while the rubber is still soft, sail cloth made in Russia. giving it a soft, velvety face. Used Russian Blanket Very heavy blanket for raincoats. with thick nap raised on both sides, Rubberized Silk or cotton fabrics water- made with wool warp and heavy mo- proofed by rubber on one side. hair filling, usually in different col- ored Used for thick and floor stripes. automobile Rug 1, heavy covering robes. made of cotton, wool, silk or jute, made with or without any pile, by Russian Cord Consist of warp ends, heav- hand or on the loom; also a twilled ier than the ground warp, crossed on and figured blanket used for travel- the wrong side by a leno at each ing; 2, coarse woolen fabric worn by nick. The ground of the fabric is a the poorer classes in England during plain woven sheer fabric, usually in a the 16th century. color contrasting to the cord. Rug Back Double shed back, given to Russian Duck Fine bleached linen can- carpets and rugs to increase their vas, used for summer clothing. A wearing quality. heavier grade is used for sail cloth. Rugby In England a stout, colored cot- Russian Lace 'Coarse crochet lace of cot- ton shirting. ton or linen with simple patterns. Rugging In England a stout, coarse Russian Serge A very strong, thick all- woolen fabric, finished with a thick wool serge for women's coats. on the nap face; used for floor cover- Russian Tricot A double crochet made ing. with ribs. Rugginose Waste silk, obtained from Russian Twill Trade name for clear stained or imperfect cocoons. fine, faced twilled woolen dress goods, Rum Cotton Trade name for cotton woven of right hand twist yarn and grown in the Danish West Indies. dyed in the piece. RUS 135 SAL

Russian Veiling Cotton veiling made Saht Linen yarn in old Egypt. and with large meshes square pat- Said Variety of raw cotton from Syria. terns woven between them. Saie tSame as Say. Russienne Carded, French silk dress goods; obsolete. Sailcloth Coarse, stout, very strong can- vas or used for etc. Rusty Silk Flaw in white or delicate col- duck, sails, ored silk cloth showing fine brownish Saint Andrew In embroidery a stitch streaks in the filling. forming a St. Andrew cross in a square. Saint Georges Unbleached French lin- en of medium quality. Saint Jago Cotton goods in Sierra Leone, Africa. Saint Jean Coarse, unbleached French linen made in various widths. Saint Lucie Very fine French silk yarn. American hand- Sabattus Rug Modern Saint Maur French serge made of pure in Maine. It made knotted rug made silk or mixed with wool. is all-wool, the pile being tied in a special knot. The design is taken Saint Nicolas French woolen serge, used from Indian pottery in colors of vege- by the army. table indigo blue and green. Saint Omer Narrow, 17th century Eng- Sable French for mottled effect. lish worsted fabric. Sabrina Applique needlework, the Saint Rambert Unbleached French lin- leaves and petals of flowers made of en. colored material edged with button- Saint A of French hole stitches. Remy grade organ- zine or raw silk. Sacharilla Mull A very delicate bleached cotton muslin, made of fine yarn with Saint Vincent Variety of raw cotton from the West Indies. a low construction. It is given a very soft finish. Used for veils and tur- Sakallerides Variety of Egyptian cotton. bans the Moslems. by Sal Ammoniac Used for dressing textiles. Sacci An extensive variety of the sisal Sal a Italian name for a or hemp of Yucatan; has a long white sedge rush, used for chair etc. fibre. seats, brushes, Sack Cloth Very coarse cotton or jute Salago Coarse Philippine fibre used for fabric, woven plain, used for bags. cordage. Sacking 1, heavy, three or four end Salamander's Wool Name for asbestos in twill jute or hemp cloth of double some parts of England. and used for ce- warp single filling, Salamine Silk armure dress goods of ment and ore bags; 2, solid colored black warp and colored filling form- flannels for kimonos. ing pin checks on the surface; obso- Saddening Same as after treating. lete. Saddlecloth In Arizona and Mexico Salampore^East Indian blue cotton masses of aloe fiber spread out in reg- cloth of good quality; it is very ular thickness and tacked to keep loosely woven and used for garments them in place. It is not woven. by the natives in India and Africa. Sad ha General term in Bengal for plain Salendang East Indian cotton goods wo- cotton cloth without any design in ven in colors. the selvage. Salisbury White Sort of white English Sadin In the Bible means linen cloth. woolen flannel. Sadowa Woolen dress goods with the nap Salona Variety of raw cotton from being raised in circles, dots, squares, Roumelia. etc, Salonique Variety of raw cotton from Saffron A fugitive yellow dyestuff de- Macedonia. rived from the flowers of the crocus; used formerly to some extent. Salt Colors Direct synthetic dyestuffs containing table salt which increases Sagathee, Sagathis, Sagathy, Saggathy the fastness of the color. They are An obsolete French and English used on cotton and linen at a low woven in four-leaf twill with woolen, temperature but on animal fibers only a white and colored and warp filling at high temperature given a high finish with the calen- dar. Saltillo Woolen blankets made by the natives of Northern Mexico, with a Saging Philippine fibre used for cord- large and ornamented medal- age. richly lion, consisting of various colored Sahare^Cotton fabric with wide yellow concentric bands. This medallion is and narrow white stripes and a bor- in the center of a ground covered der of red, yellow and white stripes; with small all-over geometrical de- used in East Africa for sword signs in vertical or diagonal rows. sheaths. The leading colors of these blankets SAL 136 SAT

are blue or red with smaller quanti- Saraband 'Small and medium size Per- ties of green, yellow and black. The sian rugs made of cotton warp and weave is usually very fine; the sel- weft and close and short wool pile, vages are finished smoothly and tied in Senna knot. The design con- without overcasting and the ends are sists almost without exception of finished with fringes. These blankets rows of pears and many narrow bord- are used as ponchos or . ers in dark red, blue, etc. Saluyot A Philippine fibre used for Saracenic Tapestry 'Earliest medieval cordage name for tapestry made on basse Samardine Plain French serge, made lisse. with eight ends and four picks in Sarakhs Rugs Heavy, all-wool Persian a repeat. rugs, the long and close pile is tied Samarkand Medium size rugs made in in Ghiordes knot. The design con- sists of medallion Central Asia of wool, silk or cotton and floral figures chiefly in rich red and blue. web and loose cotton or silk pile, tied in Senna knot. The design shows Sarandaz Trade term for certain Per- Chinese influence with five or less sian and Anatolian knotted wool rugs medallions, fret-work patterns and of various characters, which are used odd, stiff flowers. The colors are yel- by the head of the household. lows, blues, reds, browns and white. Sarasses Variety of East Indian raw Sameron A linen sheeting of good qual- cotton. in the 16th ity, used England during Sarcenet 1, obsolete, light, soft and thin century. silk fabric, used as lining in England; Samis or Samit A medieval fabric 2, plain, thin silk ribbon. made with very heavy silk or hemp Sarcilis Very coarse and cheap woolen, warp containing six threads and flat used by the poorer classes in England gold filling (tinsel). Originally was during the 13th century. Called also made in Italy. It is believed by some Sarciatus. to have been similar to velvet. Sardasi 'East Indian velvet, embroidered Samoa Hopi Indian name for the Yucca with gold or silver threads. grass, used for baskets, mats, etc. Sard is Obsolete French woolen Used for ropes, twines, saddle blank- suiting, made in plain weave. ets by other Indian tribes. Saree Coarse East Indian cotton cloth Samuhu 1, good bast fibre, yielded a by with colored species of the Chorisia tree in Ar- heading. gentine; used for cordage; 2, silky, Sargette See sergette. flexible but short a fibre, yielded by Sargia Medieval Italian twilled fabric, species of the Bombaceae in Para- made of wool and eilk. guay; used for ponchos, etc. The Sargues 'French serge made of linen and Indians use the net-like bast for carded wool. various purposes. Sarnak Silk floss from Turkestan. San Martha Variety of raw cotton from 'Columbia. 'Woven colored cotton goods used for garments in Arabia and In- San Martin Variety of raw cotton from dia. the West Indies. Sarplar In England a bag of wool meas- Sanat An inferior East Indian printed uring 2,2,40 pounds. cotton cloth. Sarplier A coarse, strong, plain woven Sandal Striped taffeta in the Levant cotton fabric; used in England for trade. baling wool. Sangales Light and thin, bleached, raw Sarpuz 'Trade term for Persian and Ana- or striped linen from Switzerland. tolian knotted wool carpets; used as Sangati One of the finest grades of floor covering. plain Dacca muslins (see). Sarraux 'French linen canvas, made with Sangi Cast Indian satin, made of tus- blue checks; used by sailors for sah silk and cotton. trousers. Sanglier Closely woven French fabric Sarsenet iPlain, woven stout piece dyed made of hard twist worsted or mo- English cotton cloth finished with hair yarn. high gloss, often calendered to give the of a used for Wool Trade name for natural appearance twill; Sanitary etc. wool. lining, mat from the Solomon Sanna Bleached or blue cotton cloth Sarung 'Sleeping leaves. from East India. Islands, made of pandanus Sash Ada Tari Arabic term for bleached Santipur Very fine and thin East Indian tanjibs (see) with a dark blue or cotton cloth, embroidered in flowers. lavender striped heading; used for Santos Brazilian cotton, with a silky, head covering by the natives In white staple. Egypt. Sanyan Variety of wild silk from West Sash Marmar Aal Arabic name for flne Africa. bleached mulls; used by the natives in Sappy Wool containing a large percent- Egypt. age of natural grease and subject Satan in Obsolete French woolen fabric; therefore to excessive shrinkage. used for drapery. SAT 137 SAT

Satara 'Highly finished, ribbed woolen Satin Finish 'High gloss given to cotton, fabric, fulled and sheared. wool or silk fabrics by calendering. Stout, lustrous piece dyed cotton Satin Foulard 'Smooth and highly fin- fabric, made in satin weave (see) ished silk foulard. either in warp or filling flush. Also Satin Grec 'Solid colored silk satin lin- comes printed or in stripes; used for ing or dress goods made with lining dresses, skirts, shoe lining, etc. single warp and high finish. Satellites 'Printed cotton goods in the African market. Satin Jean A stout, heavy cotton jean, made with a 'French dress made of highly finished, finely Sati-drap goods, twilled face. cotton or silk warp and woolen fill- ing of the same color, forming a weft Satin de Laine 1, French twilled dra- satin. It is fulled in the finish; ob- pery, made of English worsted, in solete. solid colors, printed or brocaded; '2, Satin A great variety of fabrics, orig- French dress goods and cloaking inally only of silk, now made also made in various colored brocaded pat- of wool, woven in satin weave, almost terns in satin weave. always warp flush, lit is a very Satin Lisse finished smooth and glossy fabric, used for Twilled, highly cot- ton dress in dresses, lining, trimming, ribbons, etc. goods France, printed with small The best grades are made of all silk, designs. while the cheaper grades are cotton- Satin Luxor (Rich, stout silk satin dress back satins, the set of yarns, which fabric, made with a corded face. does not form the of cot- face, being Satin de Silk satin made with a ton. See also sateen and . Lyon twilled and Satins are made with taffeta or back, finely striped face; used for twill back. In double faced satins lining. both sides are made in satin weave Satin Marabou Thin, silk satin made with two sets of warp and single set with single marabou yarn (see) for of filling. Satin fabrics are often warp. ornamented with or dobby Jacquard Satin Merveilleux A very soft silk dresa in faille, lame figures taffeta, velvet, fabric, woven in a seven-end eatin or other weaves and effects. weave and given a very high finish. Satin d'Amerique 'Satin made of mixture Satin National Six or eight-end French of silk and agave fiber. silk satin dress goods. Satin Back Velvets or taffeta and other ribbons made with a reverse side Satin Onde Five or eight-end silk satin, of satin. made with single warp; used as dress goods or millinery- Satin Berber Stout worsted fabric, made in satin weave and finished with a Satin Quilt Bleached or colored cotton lustre. quilt, made with fine warp and 'filling, Satin Bonjean French worsted trouser- woven plain, a second, coarse filling raised ing, fulled in the finishing. forming patterns. Satin de Bruges 'Upholstery satin of silk Satin Regence Stout, rich silk satin dress and wool. fabric, made with 'fine runs weftwise. Satin Check Highly finished English cot- 'Satin a la Reine Closely woven six-end ton fabric, woven in checks. silk satin. Satin de Chine 'Closely woven 10 end Satin Rhadames 'Fine silk satin dress French silk satin, made with eingle fabric, made with fine diagonal lines or ply warp either in mixture of wool running across the face. and silk, or pure wool or cotton warp Satin Royal Double faced, silk satin with and woolen filling; obsolete. twilled stripes crossing the material. Satin de Chypre Obsolete French silk satin. Satin Sheeting English cotton back thick Satin Cloth A lightweight woolen dress satin, made of waste silk; used for goods, made in satin weave and lus- dresses, etc. tred. Satin Stitch Used in embroidery, called Satin Damask 1, the best grade, lustrous also long and slanting gobelin stitch; linen damask, used for table linen; a gobelin stitch made slanting. 2, rich silk satin with fancy Jac- quard designs woven either in fancy Satin Striped Various materials, having or in weaves pile. stripes in satin weave. Satin Delhi iFine worsted satin. Satin Stripes^English satin made of cot- Satin Duchesse stout and lus- Fine, very ton warp with broad silk stripes and trous silk woven in satin, eight-end mohair filling. satin weave. Satin Ermine 40-end French silk satin Satin Sultan French dress goods and ribbon, made with two sets of warp, cloaking, also a lustrous East In- one eet forming a taffeta back, the dian silk fabric. other the satin similar to surface, Satin Surah Twilled, soft surah, the fur or the very plush. finished with great lustre. Satin Figaro Eight-end silk satin dress goods or millinery trimming, the warp Satin Tick Very stout, cotton fabric, being of alternately different colored made in satin weave; used for up- threads. holstery. SAT 138 SCI

'French-make made in Satin Turc 1, four-end satin in France, Savonnerie rug in made with single warp. It is given a imitation of Oriental knotted rugs high finish and is used for shoe tops; rococo patterns. 2, French fabric made of wool and Sawn^Cotton cloth from East India. silk warp and wool filling in seven- Saxon Camblet First name given in Eng- for end satin weave; used shoe tops, land to 'Saxonies, worsted fabrics; trousers, etc.; similar to lasting. obsolete. Satin Vigoureux Dress fabric having a Saxonienne French silk armure dress satin face or satin stripes, the warp good of small patterns, having the yarns being printed according to the warp in various colors; obsolete. vigoureux process (see), giving a Saxony 1, the finest class of wool, hav- mottled color effect. ing a short, very fine but strong and Satin Weave One of the principal elastic staple, with excellent felting weaves in which either the warp or properties owing to the large num- the filling completely covers the face ber of serrations; used for the best and is interwoven with the other set grades of fulled fabrics; 2, a wors- of yarn in an irregular way, usually ted fabric, originated in England crossing only one thread at a time, during the 19th century, made with a without having two threads running warp of half-bred, English and Botany consecutively in the weave in order wool and the filling of Saxony or to avoid the common twilled effect. South-Down wool; 3, same as merino The set of threads forming the face in Scotland; 4, means a white flan- is placed very close while the other nelette in Canada. set is run in at greater intervals. In Saxony Brussels Curtains, having a net constructing satin weave the num- ground, with patterns formed by lay- ber of harnesses of the original twill ing another thickness of mesh, tam- on which it can be woven is divided bouring the outline of the design by in two parts, the rule being that these hand and cutting away the loose, of each cannot be equal nor multiple outer parts. nor can both be divisible by other, Flannel Fine flannel, made of the same number. Saxony Saxony wool in England. Satin French dress made Zephyr goods, Point Fine lace similar to the of cotton and woolen Saxony warp filling, old Brussels. with a weft plush satin weave, fulled in the finish. Say, An all-worsted, four-harness of black made in Eng- Satinade obsolete French and Italian serge color, 1, land since the middle ages until the tapestry, having waste silk warp 19th century; it was used for lin- and silk filling, dyed in different col- ings and shirts by certain religious ors and 2, forming stripe patterns; orders and for aprons by the Quak- ttiin and light French dress goods, ers. It was made of Hol- satin over taf- usually having warp stripes or wool. of land, English Spanish feta foundation, the warp is silk, Cast Coarse wool taken from the the of wool or linen. Say filling tail part of the fleece. Satine Cotton satin, see sateen. Sayette^-General name in France for Satinet 1, an American fabric made of various twilled or plain woven goods cotton warp and all new wool fill- mixed with little silk. Used for lin- ing, covering the face in satin weave ing and furniture cover. and used for fulled; working clothes; Sayette Yarn Slack twist wool yarn, 2, in England a stout cotton satin made of pure Holland wool (the best with shorn face and napped and grade), or mixed with other wools. napped back. Used for fine dress goods, knit goods, Satinette Thin silk satin in England and etc. France. Sayetterie French term denoting wool- Satinisco- Inferior grade of satin; used ens containing some silk yarn. for lining. Schappe See shappe. Satranji Thick, very durable and wash- Schiffli Embroidery 'Shuttle embroidery, able woven cotton carpet from In- the machine being run by a motor in- dia, made in large size. stead of by hand. The movement of the carriages is caused by motor pow- Sattannet 18th century pure worsted er and the is operated by fabric. pantograph English hand. The cross stitches are visible on Saulganshi East Indian calico. both sides of the goods and the work bobbin threads on the back Sauvagagi East Indian gray or bleached shows the cotton cloth. of the embroidery. Finishing process for mer- 'Bleached, stout woven and hard Schreinering Savage cerized cottons, consisting of pass- finished cotton shirting in Venezuela, the cloth between two weighted used for collars and cuffs. ing rollers, one being smooth, while the Savalan Rugs See Sultanabad. other has very fine, closely engraved Saved List Cloth Coarse English woolen lines. It produces a high gloss. for the East Indian market, dyed in Scinde The poorest variety of East In- the piece, having -white selvage, which dian raw cottons, having a short, is covered by a Btrip of fabric before fairly clean and very strong staple dyeing to keep the color out. of dull white color. SCO 139 SEL

Scotch Cambric Fine otton dress goods Seal Plush Silk plush cloaking imitating finished with size but not lustred. real sealskin, the dyeing material is Scotch Carpets Pile carpets, similar to tipped on the ends of the pile, which the Kidderminster, with design on has to be straight and slanting in only both sides but in different colors. one direction. Sealette Scotch Checks White muslin with plaid Name in England for plush checks in colored cord. Used for woven in imitation of seal. dresses, etc. Sealskin Plush made with tussah silk Scotch Fingering Soft twist woolen yarn pile, the cheaper grades also of cow for knitting. hair; dyed in the piece in black to

imitate real s. ; used for coats. Scotch Finish Heavy woolens, finished with a losely shorn nap. Seaming The operation by which parts of the knitted Scotch Gingham Trade name for the goods are joined to- finest grades of ginghams. gether. Lace Old term for Scotch Plaid Coarse, very durable twill- Seaming lace used as entredeux (see). ed woolen fabric, made of native wool in 'Scotland in various tartan pat- Seamless Hose Made on the circular terns. without any seam Scotch A and in one width throughout the Rug rag rug, made with a whole coarse two-ply cotton and piece. It is shaped on drying warp long boards. and narrow strips of wool rags. hair cloth Scotch Tweed Originally an all-wool Seating 'English in satin weave for furniture little in tweed (see), spun and woven in seats; Scotland. use. Fine twilled Scots Soft English dress goods made of Sebastopol woolen dress goods with very fine, different colored hard twist worsted yarn in serge weave. narrow runs visible only when the fabric is draped. Scott A Highland tartan, composed as Seconds 1, best merino wool follows: Wide red field, split in the clothing from the center by a narrow green stripe with edge of the throat and a fine black line near each edge of breast; 2, coarse wool taken from the green; green stripe (measuring the skirt of the merino fleece; 3, fab- half the width of the distance be- rics with a flaw. tween the edge of red field and the nearest black Second Combing Wool taken from the line) ; group (as wide as back, across the loins green stripe), composed of three red to the neck of the fleece. and two green stripes, the latter be- ing wider and split in the center by Sedjadeh Turkish name for medium a fine white line; green stripe, as sized Oriental carpets. above. Seed Cotton Picked bolls, fibres and Scour 1, process of cleaning the wool of seeds not yet all separated. grease and other impurities; 2, washing- the cloth to remove oil Seeded Small dots strewn over the face soap, etc. of the fabric; same as powdering. Scoured Wool Is absolutely clean from Seedy 'Wool, containing seed. any foreign matter. Seerhand Variety of soft cotton dress Loosely woven light weight open- muslins in India, face cotton cloth made of two-ply Seerhandconat yarn, usually in colored Various East Indian cot- stripe or ton muslins. plaid patterns in gauze weave. Used for curtains, drapery, etc. A lightweight wash fabric made of silk or Scroop The rustling sound peculiar to cotton in plain weave the silk when rubbed between the showing crinkled warp stripes. This effect is produced fingers. It is produced by treating by dressing that the the degummed silk in an acid or lime part of warp very slack. Origin- an bath; it is imparted to mercerized ally imported fabric from India. Used for hosiery by using various organic dresses, office coats, etc. acids with a soap bath. Seersucker Gingham -Cotton gingham made with Scutching Tow Is the by-product of the colored or crinkled stripes. scutching of flax straw, often being Segovie Very fine French serge, made of rescutched; it is classified in Ire- Spanish wool with a nap on the land face. as coarse, fine and rescutched; used for ropes. Segovienne English cloth of fine Span- Sea Island 'See cotton. ish wool. Seizain Term applied to the strong lus- Obsolete, very wide, fulled French woolen trous fibres yielded by certain algae. dress goods of med- ium grade, having 1,<600 warp ends. Sea Weed Fibres yielded of by species Self or algae; used for -Figured Striped In solid colored cordage, fishing lanes fabrics, etc. patterns formed by a weave different from the ground. SEL 140 SET

Selvage, Selvedge The edge of woven Serapi Rugs Large, nearly square Per- fabrics, consisting either of one or sian rugs of cotton web and short, more stronger cords or a narrow close pile tied in Ghiordes knot. The border, usually of a different weave design consists usually of a cream from the body, serves to strengthen center medallion, floral patterns and the fabric and to prevent warp inscriptions. threads from The selvage fraying. Serbattes Fine East Indian muslin with is called fast when it is enclosed by gold selvage. all or part of the picks and not fast when the filling threads are cut off Serge 1, a large variety of soft and at the edge of the fabrics after every somewhat loose woolen, worsted and pick; the selvage of such fabrics, silk fabric with a clear finish woven usually split goods, consists either of in a 2 and 2, even-sided twill, pro- leno or in the cheapest grades the ducing a flat, diagonal rib effect. It fabric is simply sized along the was made since the 12th century. edges to prevent fraying. Also called The best grades, made of worsted list. warp and woolen filling or all-wors- ted are used for suits, dresses and In nautics a skein of with Selvagee rope coats. Silk is used for women's around used serge another rope wound it; dresses and coats in the heavier for hoisting. grades while the lighter weights are Selvyt An unfinished velvet, made of for lining and umbrella cover; 2, a harsh cotton, used for polishing cloth. grade of shoddy, obtained from serge cloth, etc.; name for the two- Semal Cotton Silky fibre yielded by the braids, 3, and-two twill. Indian bombax malabaricum. It is flattened and used for straight and Serge d'Aumale 1, XVIII century French stuffing. serge, the warp made of slack twist Seme French for powderings or small woolen yarn and the filling of harder patterns over the ground of the cloth, twisted single wool yarn; 2, narrow lace, etc. and light French serge, used for lin- ing. Semienyoung 'Black colored Chinese vel- vet with cotton filling. Serge de Berry In the 19th century a worsted in no- England, similar to last- Sempiterne English all-wool serge, ing but heavier and woven with seven ted for its durability. harnesses. Chinese silk white Sengfangtchen taffeta, Serge de Blicourt 18th century French about 20 inches or ecru, with a 'finish; wool serge made of slack twist warp wide. The texture is very 'fine and and harder twisted single filling. regular. Used for drapery, paint- ing, etc. Serge de Boys 17th century English worsted. Senna Knot One of the two kinds of knots found in hand-made Oriental Serge Cloth English woolen serge of smooth face and back. pile carpets. A complete loop Is napped formed by the yarn, thus having a Serge DenimAn 18th century pure wors- pile extending from every space be- ted fabric in England. Believed to tween the warp threads, thus mak- be same as serge de Nismes. more knots and a denser and ing Serge de Rome Piece dyed mostly black evener pile than the Ghiordes knot. fine French serge, made of two-ply Senna Rugs 'Very fine Persian rugs made warp and very slack twist filling with in small sizes, usually with cotton '8-ends and four picks in a repeat. web and very close and short Made with or without double face. wool pile tied in Senna knots. The Also made of eilk. of small design consists usually pat- Sergette^l, light and narrow French terns covering the entire field or of serge of white or gray color made medallion. a lozenge center White, 20 or 24 inches wide; obsolete; 2, red and blue are used the oftenest. narrow French droguet, made in Very fine khilims (see) are also made pieces 24 inches wide and about 46 in the same design and coloring. yards long; obsolete. Sennit 1, braid containing odd number Serioin The natural gummy substance on of strands; also straw braid for hats; the silk fiber, removed by boiling off. in a braid formed 2, nautics, by plait- Serpentine TwillA twill weave made in ing strands of ropes together. wavy ridges. lace of col- Sequin Lace Crochet made Serpilliere The coarsest grade of un- ored yarn and colored braid for the bleached, loosely woven French can- design. vas, made of hemp tow; used for bag- Seragunge Grade of Indian jute, pro- ging. duced in the Patna and Mymensingh Sertao Good grade, long etaple inland districts. raw cotton from Peruambuco, Brazil. Serapes Colored woolen blankets in Set The number of threads found in the Mexico. fabric within an inch width. In Brad- ford the number showing how often Seraphin (or Serafin) English woolen is found within a printed with flowers on white a beer (40 threads) ground; obsolete. width of 36 inches. SET 141 SHE

Set Checks Large checks of the same Shalloon Twill An even sided, four-har- colors are set at certain distance, ness twill weave, each thread passing forming the characteristic feature of alternately over and under two the fabric, witht other colors between. threads. Setangula Variety of Egyptian raw cot- Sham Plush Made by raising a long nap ton. from a twilled fabric, to imitate pile, or by using chenille filling. Sevllla Variety of raw cotton from Spain. Shamrock Lawn union fab- CottonHard cotton thread, Lightweight Sewing spun ric composed of cotton and linen. consisting of three or six strands. In the Paisley system of numbering sew- Shanghai Dresses Plain or moire fabrics in ing cotton, the single card is twice made England, in the 19th cen- as fine as its number in a six-cord tury, of silk warp and ramie filling; thread, while in a three-cord thread exported to China. the number indicates the size of the Shanking Very coarse and short merino single strand. clothing wool taken from the legs. Sewing Silk illade of from three to 24 Shantung A soft but heavy silk, woven reeled cocoon filaments, twisted to- of pongee silk of natural color. gether slack in groups of left hand Snap-faced In England cotton back vel- di- twist and twisted in the reverse vet made of waste silk. rection under tension. Shappe 'Spun silk in Europe, which is >Raw silk from the Levant. Seydavi partly degummed by fermentation. Blue or black Chinese velvet. Seyong Sharak 'Arabic term for gray, bleached Shaatnez In the Bible fabric made of or dyed doriahs (see) used for outer wool and linen. garments by the natives in Egypt; originally it was made on hand looms. Shabnam 'Indian name of a plain, next to the finest grade of Dacca mus- Sharbati East Indian name for a very lin. fine grade of plain Dacca muslin (see). Shacapa Strong leaf fiber yielded by a Shark Skin A glossy waterproof cloth, palm in Peru; used for ropes. used for raincoats. Shade Cloth 'Plain woven cotton cloth Shash 1, in the Bible means cotton; 2, of various widths and qualities, a fine cotton muslin in Arabia; 3, usually in white or green, sized and native East African name for a very given a smooth, glossy finish; used thin, bleached cotton muslin. for shades and blinds. Shaub Indian close woven fabric made Shaded Twills Twill weaves made in di- of mixture of cotton and silk. or agonals with increasing decreasing Shawl in where it or double Originated Cashmere, floats. They are called single was made of pashmina. Some of the to the diagonals be- shaded, according best grades are still made in one or two directions being ing shaded in India on hand looms, the patterns are Shadow Check Patterns produced on va- being embroidered into the ground. rious, always solid colore dgoods bj The best French shawls and the Pais- using right hand twist and left hand ley shawls, made in imitation of these twist yarns both for the warp and Oriental fabrics, are woven on power the filling; stripe patterns are pro- looms but the pattern is only on one duced by using these two yarns only side of the shawl. Other shawls are in the warp or in the filling. crocheted or knitted by hand or by the machine. Shadow Lace Very light machine-made laces, having a mesh ground and Shawl Wool Trade name for a very fine shadow like patterns in closer mesh. wool, yielded by the goats in Thibet; used for also called Silk Same as Changeable (see). shawls; pash- Shadow mina. and densely grown Shafty Long, strong Felted woolen fabric of coarse wool. Shayak make; used in Turkey. a hairy cloth Shag 1, originally stout, Short wool ob- made of coarse wool in the Orkney Shearling pulled (see), tained a few months after shearing. Islands; 2, coarse, long nap on some of the woolen coatings. Sheborga The finest grade of the Jamdani dots 'Strong cotton fabric, heavily (see), having simple Shagreen for sized and finished to resemble leath- patterns. er; used for bookbinding. Sheer Thin, fine fabrics. Shagrine Obsolete lining silk. Sheeting 1, plain woven, light cotton Shairl Fine fabric made of the hair of fabric, made with single yarns in the the cashmere goat. gray or bleached, but never colored, usually yard wide; 2, name for the Shaker Flannel 'Soft, well napped white two-and-two twill. flannel, woolen with cotton warp and woolen filling; used for underwear. Shemakinski The coarsest grade of Sou- mak rugs. Shalloon il, an 18th century all-worsted fabric in England and France, made Shepherd Checks Woolen or worsted with single warp and twilled; 2, in dress goods or suiting, having black the 19th century a worsted in Eng- or other dark colored solid checks land, twilled on both sides, woven with over a light foundation. The checks single warp and weft in four-leaf are formed by evenly spaced warp twill; used for women's dresses. and weft stripes of equal width. SHE 142 SIA

Shepherd's Plaid Twilled woolen fabric, Shives All vegetable matter, except made with black and white checks, burrs, found entangled in the wool. formed and cross bars in by long Shoddy 1, wool obtained from unfelted black over white ground. cloth rags and knit goods by tearing Sherborne Lace English blonde and them apart; often contains other fi- black blonde bobbin lace; now obso- bers besides wool; 2, short silk fibers lete. recovered from goods; usually con- Shersh Turkish name for cotton tanjibs tains other fibers. for the na- (see) ; used headdress by Shoe Cloth Very strong and durable tives. worsted, woven with corkscrew weave, Shesh In the Bible denotes fine linen weighing between 12 and 18 oz. per fabric. yard. The warp ends vary from 80 to 150 inch with Shetland Coarse and heavy woolen over- per picks ranging from 80 to 140 to an inch. The warp coating with a very long, shaggy nap. is usually double thread and the fill- Shetland Lace Bobbin lace made of black ing single worsted, sometimes also or white Shetland wool yarn. cotton. The cloth is usually made Shetland Point Needle-point lace made as single fabric; used for shoetops. of Shetland wool in Italy. Shogged Stitch In knit fabrics; used to Shetland Shawl 'Fine knitted or crocheted form the edges of the garments. light shawl made of Shetland wool. Shooda Commercial name for a light- Shetland Veils or FallsShawls, loosely weight twilled woolen dress fabric. knitted of wool, often containing cam- Shoot Another name for weft. or and made el, goat alpaca hair, Shop Romal East Indian cotton hand- with scalloped edge. , woven in various colors. Shetland Wool 1, very fine and lustrous 1, name for short-wool; 2, silk the wool, yielded by Shetland sheep. noil. The real Sh. wool is an undergrowth, Shot Name in for (see) ; found under the longer hairy wool 1, England pick another name for or and is not shorn but roo'd (or 2, changeable mottled effect. pulled by hand) in the spring. It comes in white, gray or brown, and Shotte Butadar Fine East Indian mus- is one of the costliest wools known. lin with a sold selvage. The wool is scoured and spun by Shower Proofing 'Any process making then treated with the fumes of hand, the cloth water proof. sulphur and made up into hosiery, underwear, crochet work and very Shrinkage 1, the loss of weight of raw fibers in the as for fine shawls; 2, English two-strand cleaning process, fine knitting yarn. instance wool from the sheep's back in scouring; 2, the contraction of Shibori 'Rich, colored Japanese silk with width and length of the woven cloth, elaborate patterns; used for uphol- suffered in the finishing process. In stery. neither instance is there any standard Shichitoi Japanese mat rush o* rougher and the same materials might shrink quality. differently under similar conditions. Shine Early Commercial variety of early breed of sheep in England a Shropshire^A maturing upland cotton, having and Australia yielding a long, fine, short staple; the yield is about 34 strong and lustrous wool. per cent. Shroud Laid A rope having a core and Shiraz (Persian, all-wool made in all rugs four strands twisted around it. sizes. The medium long pile is tied in Ghiordes knot. The end selvage is Shroud Rope In nautics a finer quality often checked. The design consists of rope, composed of three plies; used of palm patterns, stripes with blue for standing rigging. and red as prominent colors. Also Shuka Native name in East Africa for called Mecca ruge. half bleached cotton fabrics, imported Shirey Yarn 'Flax yarn with a flaw from India; used for loin cloths. caused by improper setting of the Shulah Gray wool from Shetland Isles. reach. S hurled Hogget 'First fleece from a Shirred Fabrics Fabrics having rubber sheep, after it has been shorn as threads interwoven, as suspender lamb. webbings, etc. Shusu Japanese silk satin. Shirting A great variety of white, print- ed or colored woven cotton, linen or Shute 'Similar to tram. silk fabrics; used for shirts. Siamese Cotton Grown in the Antilles Rugs 'All-wool rugs made in and India, has a white, short staple. weft Caucasia. The warp and being 1, stout French coutil (see), of white, gray or dyed wool; the made with linen warp and cotton or in knot. loose pile is tied Ghiordes silk filling, in stripe or check pat- in The patterns are geometrical blue, terns; used for drapery, lining, etc.; and red colors. The silk White, yellow 2, originally a very rich, figured in knotted ends are finished long, and cotton satin; obsolete; 3, mousse- fringe. line made of silk and cotton; 4, rnada that Shiti iNative East African name for cali- also in all-cotton, characterized coes with small flowers; used for warp and filling are always of con- dresses. trasting colors. SIA 143 SIL

Siara Variety of raw cotton from South The chrysalides are killed by heat America. and certain number of cocoons, de- pending upon the count of thread re- Siauni for and Term Spanish stripes quired, are placed in a basin of hot cassimeres in China. water, which softens the gum. The Sibirienne Plain woven or twilled, thick broken outside fibers are removed and woolen fabric with a long nap, fin- after the ends are collected they are ished with a high gloss. passed through a guide and wound on a reel, a cocoon yielding from 400 Sibucara Silky seed hair, grown on a yards to 1,200 yards of silk ftber. The species of the Bombax tree in Ven- gum will hold the different fibers ezuela; used for stuffing. together as it cools down and dries. Sicilian A lustrous, lightweight fabric, This is the raw or refeled silk, its made of fine, hard spun cotton warp size being expressed by the denier, and mohair filling of lower count 233% deniers of this reeled silk mak- in plain weave. ing one ounce avoirdupois and the of the deniers in Sicilienne Originally from Sicily; it la number comprised hank or skein meters or 520 a plain woven silk fabric with heavy a (476 the count of the weft ribs; now made with silk warp yards) expresses and a heavier cotton or wool filling yarn. in plain weave, forming cross ribs, Different from the reeled silk is the similar to poplin. spun silk, made of pierced cocoons Sida 'White, strong and lustrous bast fi- and of the waste from the reeled silk. or the first ber, yielded by the sida plants in In- The cocoons waste are then and dia, South America and Australia; degummed, opened combed, used for cordage. lapped, put through the drawing and the roving frames and then spun into Sidebands (Fabrics in America, usually then doubled and twisted near singles, printed with a band effect to again, gassed and wound on reels or one of the are used selvages. They spools. In numbering spun silk the for trimming purposes. French system takes as a basis the Sidshillat East Indian linen printed with number of 1,000 meters of singles con- small figures. tained in one kilo (2.2 Ibs.) thus 90 has 90,000 meters in a kilo, Siena Point See darned lace. singles while number 2-80 has 40,000 kilos. Sieuhwakin Chinese shawls made of em- The English system of counting spun broidered white crepe. silk is the number of hanks (840 Sifori A Medieval silk fabric of unknown yards) contained in one pound avoir- structure. dupois, thus number 40 would have 3,600 yards pound. Before dye- 'Rich silk dress goods of the per Siglaton the silk is degummed by boiling Middle originated from the Ori- ing Ages, in water and soap, then rinsed in cold ent. water, after which the silk is often coarse Sign Cloth 'Heavily starched, weighted with tin salts, iron or other for bleached cotton muslin; used foreign matter. Certain yarns are signs. dyed in the gum, and others, called bleached of the Silence Cloth Heavy and thick euples, with only part . gum and napped cotton fabric; used under removed. the table cloth. The lustre of the silk Is Increased Silesia Stout twilled cotton lining, with by diluted acids and surfers when In a glossy finish on the face. Dyed treated by diluted alkalies. Silk Is the in dark colors. piece rapidly dissolved In zinc chloride, finest wool In the Silesian Merino The nitric acid, hot solution of caustic world. soda, chromic acid solution, etc. It durable French ' Silesie Obsolete, very has affinity for metallic salts, and twilled woolen, made with a different tannic acid, the latter being used In colored warp and weft. "weighting." 'The action of concen- cloth of Silhouette French, plain woven trated acids (after brief treatment cotton and a different colored warp only) produces a crepe effect on silks. linen filling, giving a scintillating ef- fect. Official classification of raw silks in New York is European: Grand ex- Silk A transparent fiber, composed of extra classical; best classical; two filaments (brins) encased in gum tra; best No. No. 1; Reallna. when in natural state, having an even classical; 1; ex- diameter. It is very strong, elastic Japan silks: I Filatures: Double and hygroscopic. It ie the product tra; extra; Sinshiu extra; best No. of cocoons made by the silk worm 1 to extra; best No. 1; hard nature leaves of the mul- which feeds on the No. 1; No. 1; No. 1-1%; No. 1%: color of the cocoons berry tree. The No. 2. II Reieels: Extra; from the gum se- 'No. l%-2; is white or yellow No. No. 1-1%; No. 1%; No. l%-2; creted by the worm. After the gum 1; No. No. S. is removed by boiling in soap and No. 2; No. 2-2%; 2%; water the color of the silk will be HI Kakeda: Best extra; extra; No. 1; white or pale cream. The wild silk, No. 2; No. 3. feeds on certain the worm of which The best grade of reeled silk fur- in China, India and Japan, oak trees nishes the organzine, while tram is is ecru colored even after the gum from inferior silk. has been removed. See Wild Silk. obtained SIL 144 SJA

Silk Camlet Silk cloth of two-colored Single Cloth Is woven with one set of warp, the filling of a third color. being warp and one set of filling, irrespec- Silk Cotton A widely used term, applied tive of the weave. to the fine and lustrous fibers yielded Single Cover Trade term for such fab- by the seed pods of a great number rics figured with extra wefts, which of trees and plants. have only one figuring pick to each Silk Grassy-General term applied to many ground pick. lustrous fibers of the pineapple or Single Damask 'Both the ground and the other plants, especially the white, pattern, or only the ground is woven strong and silky fiber yielded by the in five-leaf satin. in Amer- Furcroea cubensis, tropical Single Plush A plain knitted fabric, made ica. with one face yarn and having the Silk Nankeen English nankeen having backing yarn almost entirely on the silk satin stripes over a cotton foun- back of the cloth. It is then napped; dation. used for underwear. Silk Wadding Waste silk resulting from Single Poplin A lightweight poplin. spinning bourette eilk. Single Silk iSilk thread consisting of Silkeen A finely ribbed English cotton eisht or ten reeled filaments twisted fabric, printed with colored pattern together; used for gold tinsel. colored foundation and highly over a Single Width 'Same as narrow width. glazed. Single Worsted 'Medieval English wors- Silkaline A very light, printed, plain ted, half yard wide. woven, glossy cotton fabric, made in Yarn of one the gray and calendered; used for Singles consisting only strand; one-ply yarn. lining, curtains, etc. wov- Silkworm Gut Used for fishing lines; the Singonne Very stout, black, closely en fulled and coarse woolen with a silk worms are immersed in strong it sheds the water and is vinegar for a couple of hours and long nap; each worm yield- used in various European countries then pulled apart, the two thick stringe of great for winter clothing by poorer ing classes. strength. Sinna Knot See Senna knot. Silvalin Trade term for a paper yarn curl made in England. Sipacheutoochwongyong Black, pile silk velvet in China, made with serge Silver Cloth French fabric, composed of foundation; used for hats, etc. 4-5 of wool and one-fifth of asclepias as Deswal. cotton. Siradjganj Same term for Russian uncleaned Silver Cord English cotton velvet having Siretz Trade narrow ribs. flax. (Made of (see) in Cal- Simal Cotton Medium strong, soft, short Sirkar Mat Munj cutta. and silky seed hair of reddish brown color, grown on the Simal tree (a Sirsacca Obsolete French fabric of eatin species of Bombax) in India; used patterns over a gold tissue ground. for stuffing. Sisal Very strong, smooth, yellowish leaf Simpatico Bleached cotton ehirting of .fiber yielded by the Agave rigida of medium stiff finish, about 35 inches Central America and the West In- wide. dies; used for cordage. Simpson See Dickson. Sister's Thread Same as nun's thread. Sinamay 'Light, plain woven fabric, made Sistresay .From East India and Turkey, by the natives of the Philippines of made with two warps, one silk, the abaca fibers. It usually comes in con- other cotton, and a spun silk filling trasting colored stripes; used for gar- in damask patterns with colored ments by the natives. stripes. Sinclaii A Highland tartan, composed as Sittara Unbleached cotton cloth from In- follows: *Green stripe; group (as dia. wide as composed of a green stripe) Commercial variety of medium black a fine white line and a Six stripe, upland cotton, the staple blue the latter being wider maturing stripe, measuring 35-40 millimeters; the yield than the black; "red stripe, being is 28-130 per cent. somewhat wider than all the stripes mentioned above; repeat, in reversed Six Quarter Goods Measuring 54 inches order, stripes mentioned between two.* in width. Very coarse and inferior knotted Sixth Combing 'Wool taken from the low- rugs made in India. er part of the thigh; also called Sindon Very fine cotton or linen cloth breech. in old Babylon; a fine medieval linen Size 'Starchy or gummy preparations fabric. used for giving the yarn or the cloth weight, strength or appearance. Singapatti Native East African name for fancy colored printed cotton shawls. Sizing 'Finishing process; consists of or fabrics with size A finishing process for remov- treating yarns Singeing for weight or appearance. ing loose fibers or nap from the sur- strength, face of the cloth, by passing it above Sjadra East Indian coarse, unbleached gas flames or over a hot plate. cotton cloth. SJA 145 SOD

Sjappolen Fine cotton print from the Slub Yarn In England yarn made with Levant. nubs, often of a different color from Skein A length of yarn, used as standard the yarn. measure, being 840 yards for cotton Stubbing Doubled and slightly twisted yarn and 560 for wool. sliver. Skene A Highland tartan, composed as Smalkens Obsolete thin silk or linen follows: Red stripe, split in the cen- cloths, interwoven with gold or silver ter by a green line; dark blue stripe, threads; made in Holland. as wide as the red; red stripe, width Small Chain The binder warp in certain and as above; stripe, as split green carpets, as Wilton or Brussels. wide as one red and the blue stripes together; red stripe, width and split Smith Standard Commercial variety of as above; green stripe, as above. medium maturing cotton from Louis- same as Skin Wool Taken from the skins of iana, Ben Smith. slaughtered sheep, either removed by Smock Linen Stout linen cloth, used for sweating, or by sodium sulphide or coats in England. by lime (slipe wool). Smooth PeruvianCotton, thread having soft, Skips "Flaw in cloth where a warp smooth and pliable staple of fair threads than skips over more filing strength; it is white. intended. Smyrna Greek cotton, having a medium 1, in wool sorting the removal Skirting v strong, harsh and fairly clean of the as staple of the stained parts fleece, of dull white color. the legs and the whole edge of the trade fleece; 2, rag sorting term, meaning Smyrna Rugs 1, name for Turkish rags of women's dress goods and rugs made in Asia Minor and mar- men's coat linings, containing cotton keted through Smyrna; 2, in America, and wool. factory-made reversible rugs and car- pets, made with chenille Skyteen A cotton shirting made in Eng- filling. land with a five shaft, warp faced Snicks 'Flaws in the yarn, consisting of satin weave. It has stripes on a light very thin places. indigo ground. Snowflake In England woolens, having Slanetz Trade term for Russian, dew white nubs on the face. See also rotted flax. bourette. Slanting Cross Stitch In embroidery a Soap Used extensively in scouring, calico variety of cross stitch and but little printing, fulling woolens, dyeing silk used. The first part is same as the with black, etc. cross stitch, the return made like the Sochs Raw cotton from the Levant. gobelin stitch (see), can be used only on fine foundation. Soda Used in scouring wool and as Sleave Sort of floss silk used in the 17th bleaching agent for vegetable fibres; used also in silk fix tin century in England. weighting to salts. Sleided Silk Obsolete name for eilk waste. Sodium Bichromate Used in calico print- ing as discharge, as a mordant in wool for in England. SI ey Name warp dyeing, as a developer in dyeing and Sleyes 17th century English worstod printing with aniline black. fabric. Sodium Bisulphate Used in dyeing wool; Measure for wool, linen and jute it increases the affinity of the fibre yarns in England, equal to 1,800 yards. for the dyes. SHpe iWool removed from the sk*i of the Sodium Bisulphite Used for bleaching sheep by painting the flesh side with and as reducing agent to remove man- lime; used for serges, hosiery, wool- ganese peroxide. blankets, corsets, etc. ens, Sodium Chlorate Used in oxidizing ani- Carpet 'Warp-pile fabric made line black. with colored Jacquard figures, used Sodium Used in dyeing for bags, slippers, etc. Ferrocyanide with Prussian blue. Trade name for low-grade vel- Slips Sodium Used to reduce vets. Hyposulphite the bleaching powder in the fibres, of un- Sliver A continuous rope loose, also as a resist in dyeing the out- employed twisted cotton or wool fibers, cotton goods with aniline black and as put of the card. fixing agent of metallic oxides in cali- used on Slop Padding A printing process co printing. The fab- chintzes and some calicoes. Sodium Nitrite Used in dyeing and with resist after ric is first printed printing cotton goods with diazo col- to the en- which the color is applied ors. tire face of the cloth by means of an Sodium Peroxide Used for unengraved roller. bleaching silk. Slough Grass A sedge, growing in Iowa, Used in yielding very strong fibres, used for Sodium Phosphate weighting twine. silk and in dyeing with azo colors and Turkey red. Slub Flaw in yarns, consisting of thick, azo uneven twisted places; soft lumps on Sodium Stannate Used in mordanting the sliver. dyes. SOE 146 SPI

Soudanin rich im- Soesjes Light East Indian cotton cloth Obsolete, gold tissue, from the Orient. made in colored and white stripes, ported used for head covering. Soumak Rugs All-wool tapestry ruga woven in Transcaucasia. They come Sof 1, a very fine, plain woven fabric, in all sizes. The is made by the natives of Kashmir of design geometri- cal. The hook is often used, the the finest sort of mohair; obsolete; 2, stiches being made in the herringbone very light, changeable or brocaded fine woolen from Asia Minor. fashion. It is also called Kashmir. 'Modern S. are made in loose weave Sofit Cotton fabric in the West African and with coarse dye. trade, made m imitation of figured Souple Single filament of natural silk gauze. with the gum only partly boiled out Soft Finish Fabrics, especially cottons, (also called Mi-cuit). finished with very little or no size. Sourbassis 'White or yellowish Persian Soft Goods In England same as dry raw silk of fine quality. goods. Soutache 'Narrow rounded braid woven Softs In England same as shoddy. in herringbone effect with odd num- Soie French for silk. ber of threads made either plain or used for Soie Mi-serree French term for loose fancy; trimming. twist, glossy silk yarn for crochet. Southern Hope^Commercial variety of late maturing cotton from the South- Soie Mitorse Half twisted silk yarn for ern belt, the staple measuring 28-32 embroidery. See Mitorse silk. millimeters; the yield is 30-32 per Soie Ondee

Spiral Yarn Contains a soft spun yarn Stamen The name for warp in ancient twisted in a corkscrew fashion around Rome. a different colored single or two-ply, Stamen Forte 'Medieval French worsted hard spun core. fabric. Spliced Reinforced parts of hosiery where the wear is the greatest. Stamin An obsolete linsey woolsey. Split 1, narrow fabrics, like ribbons, lin- Stammett 16th century, very fine English ings, etc., woven in double width with worsted, name as Tammies. See center selvages formed by crossing Stamel. one thread over several warp threads in leno weave. The fabric is cut in Stamped Velvet Velvet having patterns the middle between the center sel- stamped into the pile with heated en- vages and the latter sometimes is re- graved rollers. inforced with size; 2, cheap, plain .Stout and durable English wors- cotton woven Stamyn woven, narrow goods, ted; obsolete. as above. Stannic Chloride Used in Split Foot^Colored hosiery made with a extensively also in cot- white sole. weighting silk, mordanting ton and in dyeing wool with alizarine. Split Stitch A flat chain stitch used in old church embroidery. Stannous Chloride Used as a mordant in silk as a chemical name for a weave dyeing; discharging Sponge 1, crepe (see) in calico in wool with of printing; dyeing made with equal number warp cochineal. and weft floats; 2, a honeycomb weave, made with small diamonds on Stanium Fine, stout woolen of the Mid- a satin ground, resulting in very dle Ages. small cells. Staple 1, trade term for the cotton or Sponge Cloth 1, coarse fabric, made of wool fiber; 2, trade term for a va- cotton waste and used for cleaning riety of fabrics, like serge or satin, machinery; 2, fine dress fabric of cot- which are being made and sold year ton, wool or silk, made of nub yarn after year, as contrasted with novel- in twill weave. ties; 3, a tuft of wool clinging to- Spool Cotton 'Sewing cotton thread, gether. wound on a spool, made of three Star Stitch Similar to double stitch strands, each being a double strand. (see). cotton woven with Spots English goods Starch Used extensively in .printing and dots on a of founda- great variety finishing cotton goods. tions. Starching Finishing process, consists of Spotting In England same as crabbing. treating the fabric (usually cotton) Sprig 'Patterns of flowers and leaves with solution of starch for appear- in hand -made laces, made separately ance, strength or weight. and appliqued on a net ground. Statute Galloons^Narrow cotton or silk Sprouting Defect in Brussels and tapes- for try rugs and carpets, consisting of braids, used in England binding some of the loops protruding above flannel underwear. the surface. Stauracin Byzantine silk fabric figured Spun Glass Glass thread of great fine- with small crosses. ness, dyed in various colors, braided and made into neckwear, as in Venice. Stay Striped tape used by tailors in Eng- land to bind edges. Spun Silk Yarn made of pierced cocoons, winder's waste or frisons. The fibers Stay Binding Tape to lace women's cor- are degummed by boiling in soapsuds sets. or chemicals, or by maceration or de- Filature See filature. cay. The fibers are put through the Steam combing, drawing, roving and spin- Steam Styles 'Methods of textile print- ning processes. ing, in which the colors are set with Spyndle Count for dry-spun flax yarn steam after printing. and jute yarn, consisting of 48 cuts Steinkirke Cotton handkerchiefs, for- (or leas) of 300 yards each, which made in India. make up a spyndle of 14,400 yards, merly the weight in pounds of a spyndle Stella Shawl French shawl made with being the count of the yarn. four brocaded borders sewed to the Srinagar Knotted rugs made in Kash- body, having warp fringes at both mir, India, of very fine wool. ends, two adjacent borders having the Stained Cloth (Antiquated term for dra- pattern on the face and the two pery painted with figures, to imitate others on the back; obsolete. tapestry. Stem Stitch In embroidery stitches Stamatte All-wool, colored cloth, made placed next to each other to imitate in Holland, usually dyed in the yarn; the twiet of a rope. obsolete. Stenter Fine book muslin in England. Stamel Coarse, stout English worsted of the 16th century, often dyed red for Stephanie Lace Modern handmade lace petticoats; obsolete. in imitation of the Point Venise. STE 148 STU

Stewart Various Highland tartans, com- Storm Serge In the United States a very posed as follows: light serge weighing about 7 ounces, Royal Stewart: Wide red stripe; made of single warp and filling; used light blue stripe, almost one-eighth for women's coats. of the red; black stripe, wider than Stout A property of certain fabrics, blue; of black, being pale group yellow, the combination of close weave and white and black stripe, lines; green weight. about one-quarter of wide red stripe*; red stripe, twice as wide as the green, Stoving The process of bleaching raw split by one fine white line (in the wool or fabrics with sulphur fumes. center) and two, somewhat heavier Stradella A French woolen damask black lines, the three lines spaced shawl. in reversed order evenly; repeat, 'Medieval silks with between the two*. Stragulatae stripe groups mentioned pattern. Old Stewart: Dark brown stripe, edged by red lines and split by a finer Straights, Straits 1, English kersey un- red line; dark green stripe, twice as der Henry VIII; 2, narrow and me- wide as the former, divided into three dium quality woolens in medieval even parts by two dark blue stripes, England. each edged by black lines; dark brown Straiken A linen fabric made in Scotland. stripe, as above; dark blue stripe, two of narrow stripes, Stramenta Linen sheeting in ancient split by groups Rome. each group consisting of three black and two green lines. Strand The immediate composite part of Dress Tartan: White field, half the rope, thread and ply yarn. of the entire colored group; width Strand Ground In hand-made laces ir- narrow light blue stripe; wider black regular brides connecting the sprigs. stripe; group of fine lines in yellow, black, white and black; dark green Stranfa 'Fiber obtained from straw; used wider than the black*; red in Germany as substitute for jute. stripe, men- stripe (as wide as all the above Trade term for the Strappatura plucking tioned colored stripes, except blue) waste of the Italian hemp, graded as even by one divided into four parts

Stumba Combing silk obtained from the Surah de Laine Fine, twilled, soft dress waste of shappe silk; it is quite coaree goods, made of silk and wool. and is used for filling yarn, coarse Surat East Indian cotton, often with a knitted fabrics, etc. stained but strong staple of dull white Stymboline Felt made of woolen and color; contains much leaf. linen yarn in France. Surepach East Indian cotton muslin. Subahia Xative East African name for Surette Very coarse and open French jute cotton fabrics woven with dark blue, two warps and two wefts brown and checks and a wide bagging, yellow crossing at the same time. border of silk and gold threads. Surinam Variety of raw cotton from Subsericae Medieval fabrics made partly Guyana; the flber is white or yellow- of silk. ish, lustrous and strong. Substitute A cheaper or inferior fiber which takes the place of a more ex- Susces 'East Indian lightweight all silk pensive one, as for instance cotton taffeta. used instead of wool or silk. Susetchen Chinese ecru foulard, made Succatoons Dyed cotton goods in the of wild silk. It is about 20 inches African markets. wide. Suedoise French serge, made with 8 har- Susha Plain woven ecru silk fabric made nesses and 4 picks in a repeat. in China. About 21 inches wide. Suffed-simul Silky, yellowish, seed hair Susi 'Cotton fabrics made in India with of the Bombax tree in India. colored stripes or checks on gray Suffolk Lace English bobbin lace of plain ground. patterns, the design usually outlined Susienchow 'Solid colored silk gros de with a thick thread. Naples with wavy ribs, made In Sugar Loaf A now obsolete commercial China; is about 24 inches wide. The variety of upland cotton. warp is of organzine and the filling Sukkerdon East Indian muslin. of spiral yarn. Sulphate of Alum Used extensively as Sussex Lawn English dress goods of light mordanting agent and to render fab- weight, unbleached linen. rics waterproof. Sutherland A Highland tartan, com- Sulphur Colors Direct, fast artificial dyes posed as follows: dark green stripe, producing mostly darker shades. They split in the center by a very narrow are used on vegetable fibers and are black stripe; black stripe, half as applied in an alkaline bath. They wide as the green; dark blue stripe, all contain sulphur. as wide as the green, split by a pair Sulphuric Acid Used in mordanting and of very narrow black stripes, placed carbonizing and dyeing (with acid near the edges and spaced from each other dyes) wool, in calico printing, in dis- and from the edge their own charging indigo, etc. width; green stripe, width and split as above; dark blue stripe, as wide Sulphuring 'See Stoving. as above, split in the center by a sin- Sultanabad 'Medium and large size Per- gle pair of very narrow, black stripes, sian rugs made with thick pile. The spaced their own width. design consists of floral patterns in Suti Twisted cotton in used brilliant blue, red and green colors. rope India; with tents. Summer Silk Same as Louisine (see). Sutton Early maturing commercial va- Soft silk in solid col- Suningchow serge riety of upland cotton, same as Peer- ors, made in China; is about 32 inches less. wide. Suttringee East Indian thick and stiff durable Sunn Hemp Strong, and light cotton rug. colored bast fiber yielded by the cro- talaria juncea of Southern Asia; used Sutwan Various Chinese piece dyed silk for cordage, bags, etc. satins. Suzeni Persian Supei 1, merino clothing wool, taken Embroidery needlework, from the back, across the loins to neck consisting of couched silk or gold threads. of a fleece; 2, standard grade of the ingrain carpet, having 960 warp ends Swansdown 1, an uneven sided, four har- in a 12 yard and pairs of fillings in an ness twill weave, the filling threads inch. passing over three warps and pass- Super-combing Long wool taken from the ing under one; 2, a stout, weft faced finest part of the fleece the shoul- cotton fabric woven in the swans- ders. down twill with a soft spun filling, the weave containing about twice as Silk with Suples yarn dyed only part of many picks than ends. In the the removed. finishing gum a nap is raised in the face; used for Supukwenkin Silk fabric similar to lust- underwear and workmen's clothes in ring; made in China; used for scarfs. England.

Surah Very soft and flexible twilled silk Swanskin 1, thick, closely woven, Eng- dress goods without any dressing; lish woolen cloth similar to flannel; mostly in white or very light colors. used for laborers' suits; 2, an 18th There is also an East Indian taffeta century fabric in England made of printed in Europe. worsted warp and woolen filling. SWE 150 TAF

Sweating The process of removing wool Tabbinet 1, fine drapery poplin of silk from the skin, by exposing the skins, warp and wool filling with moire fin- which are first soaked in water, to ish; 2, also a thin moire taffeta lin- high temperature. ing. cot- Swiss Applique A very light, sheer Tabby 1, British equivalent of moire; 2, ton fabric, having small, separate (not a thick and coarse taffeta or worsted continuous) patterns printed in only fabric with moire finish; 3, cotton one color. These patterns are raised velvet, made with weft pile and plain and consist of finely ground cotton ground. stuck to the cloth fibers which are Tabis Heavy, all-silk taffeta made with with glue. organzine warp. Swiss Brussels Curtains with patterns Tabis de Verone Italian all-silk taffeta the tam- outlined in chainstitch by moire; obsolete. bour machine. Taborett 18th woolen fabric in Swiss Cambric A white cotton lawn. century England, made plain or brocaded. Swiss Embroidery Washable machine and hand embroidery made, mostly white Taborine A 19th century English wors- a lower of moreen over white, in Switzerland. ted, being grade (see). Swiss Mull Very thin, bleached and dressed cotton dress goods. Tabouret A highly finished French wool- en used for furniture ob- Swiss Muslin Fine, thin cotton muslin, upholstery; solete. made in Switzerland; it is plain or dotted. Rugs Usually large size Persian rugs with cotton warp; the short and Swissing Process of calendering bleached close wool is tied in Ghiordes muslins between hot rollers. very pile knot. The favorite design consists of Swivel Fabrics Trade term for a varie- a large center medallion with curved ty of silk or cotton fabrics, having outlines and fine floral and animal relatively heavy Jacquard figures or patterns. Often several small medal- spots on a very light ground. They lions are used with inscriptions. are used for dresses, waists, over- of several etc. The dots or Tadpole Eponge Made plain dreslses, figures with one are either woven into the cloth with ends alternating loop yarn and of plain filling, the knots being an extra filling, floating on the back scattered the sur- of the cloth between the different irregularly over face. patterns, and shorn away in the fin- ishing process, or made as lappet work Taffechela English cotton fabric of fine the extra thread forming a trailing texture, made with blue warp and design. white filling in plain weave; obso- Swivel Weaving Consists of introducing lete. a number of small shuttles besides Taffeta 1, a less costly silk fabric than the fly shuttle, which produce small cendal, used for lining in the Middle designs on the foundation. There is Ages in England; 2, formerly trade one shuttle for each figure, and they name in England for all-wool shirt- do not leave long floats. The result is ings, with fancy warp stripes; 3, a similar to embroidery. plain and closely woven, very smooth silk the and weft Sword Sedge Strong leaf and stem fiber fabric, warp being of the same or the same yielded by the Lepidosperma gladiata nearly count; used for dress and Form- in Australia; used for lines and bas- goods lining. it was a stout and kets by the natives. erly very rich, somewhat stiff fabric; at the present Syddo A fairly stiff but flexible woolen; it is made very pliable (called chiffon used for coat fronts in lieu of hair- taffeta). It comes usually as a sin- cloth. gle fabric, solid colored or changeable; Syndonus A better sort of cendal (see). if double-faced two sets of filling of different colors are used. Taffeta is often used as foundation for velvet or gold brocades, for the reverse side of satin ribbons and in other combina- tions. Taffetas d'Angleterre Very stout and highly glazed French all-silk taffeta: used for scarfs, dresses, curtains, etc.; obsolete. T Cloth In Latin-America and the Far Taffetas Armoisin Trade term for the East a coarse, plain woven, gray cot- lowest grades of French taffetas; ob- ton shirting with colored head ends; solete. made in England always 28-32 inches Taffetas d'Avignon A very low grade of wide and 24 yards long, and heavily made in France, in all sized. taffetas, colors, and used for lining, curtains, etc.; ob- Taag Same as Sunn Hemp (see). solete. Tabaret Stout, fine silk drapery fabric Taffetas Chagrin Taffeta dotted in many with alternate stripes of satin and colors, used for drapery and lining; moire in different colors. now obsolete. TAP 151 TAP

Taffetas d'Espagne French all silk taf- Tambour Muslin An open and clear feta of various qualities, mostly in muslin; used for embroideries, cur- lightweight. Some grades were given tains, etc. a finish; obsolete. Tambour Work Is of Eastern origin, con- Taffeta Flannel A lightweight, unshrink- sisting of embroidery in chain and able wool fabric, made in plain weave other stitches over a sheer material with colored stripes and checks; used stretched in a frame. for sporting shirts. Tamet Woven Term in England, denot- Taffetas Fleuret Silk taffeta made of ing fabrics woven both sides alike and hard twist waste silk; obsolete. without a wale. Taffetas de Florence Very light and in- Tamettas Cotton handkerchiefs from ferior French silk taffeta lining; ob- East India. solete. Taminy In England a lightweight wool- Taffetas Prismatique Lustrous, French en fabric, finished with a gloss; ob- all-silk taffeta. The warp is colored in solete. shades of the rainbow. the various Tamis Plain and open woven and very is white. The filling- smoothly -finished worsted; used for Taffetas de Tours French, silk taffeta lin- sieves. ing of dull finish; obsolete. Tamise 1, originally an English, all-wool Taffeta Weave See Plain Weave. or silk mixed open face, light fabric. 2, Taffetine Plain woven, lightweight lin- French silk dress fabric, made with ing, made with closely placed organ- satin stripes on a sheer, plain woven zine warp and coarser cotton, linen ground; 3, lightweight, thin, plain or silk filling. It is slightly stiffened. woven woolen dress goods with a corded face. Taffy Obsolete moire taffeta. Tammies Twilled, highly finished fabrics rich silk fab- Tafta Persian plain woven, of worsted and cotton; used for dra- of hard ric, made spun, ply yarn. pery, etc. Tagal Braid made of Manila hemp and Tammy In the 18th and 19th centuries a used for women's hat shapes. fine, all-worsted dress fabric in Eng- Tahiti Cotton of the Sea Island type, land, made with single warp and the staple is good, silky, but irregular twilled, and highly finished. in length; contains a large percentage Tampico Hemp A harsh, stiff leaf fiber of unripe fiber. yielded by a variety of the agave in Tahuari Native Peruvian name for a Mexico. Also called ixtle; used for thin, fibrous bast of the Couratari ropes, etc. tree; used for clothing, blankets, etc. Tanag A Philippine coarse leaf fiber; Tailed Cotton See Stringy 3. used for cordage. bleached linen Tailor's Twist Coarse, strong silk ply Tandem Medium grade, from obsolete. thread; used by tailors. Silesia; An East Indian cotton muslin. Tajong A woolen fabric in the Chinese Tang trade. Tani or Tanny 1, see Aggonedbunder; 2, a broadcloth in China. Take A row of pile tufts in hand-made 'East Indian muslin of various rugs. Tanjib grades of fineness; is often embroid- Take-up The shortening of the warp ered and has gold selvage or gold thread after the weaving, due to the stripes at the ends. It is usually dyed curves formed in the interlacing with or printed, and worn as head cover the filling. in India, Syria and Arabia; is about Tal Xative Indian name for the harsh, 27 or 30 inches wide. wiry leaf fiber, yielded by the Palmyra Tanners' Wool Is removed from the skin palm; used for brushes. of slaughtered sheep through lime. Talanche^Plain or striped coarse cloth Tapa A very fine, fibrous sheet, obtained of flax and wool in France; used for through pounding from the bast of garments by the poorer classes. the paper mulberry tree on the Fiji used for the na- Talbot Variety of raw cotton from Mis- Islands; clothing by tives. sissippi; identical with Allen (see). Tapalos Fancy colored Mexican shawls. Talitan Chinese cotton rugs with over- cast edges; used as bed covers. Tape Very narrow cotton or linen fabric, woven in broken twill and dye in the Tamaito for Japanese term a grade of piece; used for binding by dressmak- silk waste obtained from the dup- ers. The grade is based on the num- pions. ber of threads supposed to be in the Tambour 1, the narrowest size of passing width. (see) embroidery thread; 2, embroid- Tape Check Yard-wide English cotton ery, having- the design executed in fabric of light construction. in chain stitch on a machine made Tape Lace Consists of designs made of net with the of a hook. ground, help tape and connected with brides or Made in England and Ire- laid upon a net ground. land by embroidering black or white Taped Two or more separate warp ends net in chainstitch stretched in a tam- run through one heald and woven as bour (embroidery) loo;j. one. TAP 152 TAS

Tapestry This fabric is of Oriental ori- Tare Bagging and ties of the cotton and gin and was made either by embroid- wool bales, varying from less than ering a ground fabric with colored two to over five per cent of the total worsted or gold and silver thread, or weight. the and working by stretching warp Tarlatan Very sheer, light cotton fabric with colored each the pattern threads, made in plain weave, dyed or printed of the color a weft extending only and stiffened with size; used for width of the pattern. gowns, dresses and trimmings. At the present tapestry is made either on high (vertically stretched) Tarlton Plain woven, very open and in the or low (horizontal) warp, the prin- light cotton fabric, dyed piece. for etc. See tarlatan. ciple being the same in both cases. Used dresses, is from 8 The stout warp stretched, Tarmate Waste silk, obtained from to 22, within an inch space, and the stained or imperfect cocoons. patterns worked from the wrong side by means of small shuttles. In the Tarnatan Very thin East Indian cotton design only the filling is visible. Each muslin. weft extends continuously only the Tarpaulin A plain woven jute or hemp width of that particular colored field, fabric made with taped warp, and different colored the edges of these single filling. The standard width is fields being properly interlaced with 45 inches. It is waterproofed with each other to form a continuous fab- boiling tar. ric. When in use the is tapestry hung made with the filling running vertically. Tartaine Medieval English worsted, Tapestries are ornamental textiles, red or striped. cur- used mostly for covering walls, Tartan 1, originally Scotch twilled wool- tains and also for upholstery. They en or worsted plaids with distinctive are distinguished by the style as ver- designs and colors for each Highland dures, gothic renaissance, etc., and clan; many of the clans have more by the origin. Since the 12th cen- than one tartan, as for instance the tury Arras, in France, also Brussels chief tartan, dress tartan, clan tartan, and Lille, were the most famous places hunting tartan and mourning tartan, for tapestries, succeeded by the Gobe- each worn at a special occasion. lin, Savonnerie, Beauvais and Aubus- These tartans appeared in the plaid son tapestries since the 17th century. or shawl worn over the shoulders and in woolen or worsted Tapestry Back A single shed back, giv- also the ; 2, in twill or basket f.n to carpets in order in increase dress goods woven in their wearing quality. weave in plain patterns, usually blue, green, red and yellow colors; Is made with three sets Tapestry Carpet 3, in Argentine, Uruguay and Para- of one the warps, forming loop pile, guay flannelettes, woven with plaid one frame. The and only pile warp patterns and napped on both sides. with the is printed before weaving Some of the better grades arealso of desired pattern in any number made of wool. colors, this being the difference be- made of wool tween the tapestry carpet and Brus- Tartanella Tartan plaids linen. sels carpet, although the two are mixed with cotton or similar in appearance. Tartai Used in mordanting wool. Similar stitch. Tapestry Stitch to gobelin Tartar Emetic Used in mordanting cot- Tapeta Carpets and rugs of ancient ton and to fix basic dyes. mentioned by some Egypt, ; Tartarine Medieval rich silk brocade of made with linen and woolen warp Asiatic weft. origin. Cloth A medieval fabric; see Tapis French for 1, carpet; 2, several Tartary fancy Oriental fabrics. Cloth of Tars. Tapissendis East Indian calico, printed Tartaryn 15th century English worsted on both sides, used as drapery, shawl, fabric of green color. etc. Tarver Early maturing commercial va- now Tapisserie French for tapestry. riety of cotton from Alabama, obsolete. Tapisserie d'Auxerre Consists of net em- broidered with soft wool yarn in Tasai Original name for tussah or tus- satin stitches, forming geometrical sor. designs. Tash Indian fabric made of vari-colored Tapizadoe 18th century woolen fabric in silk warp, with small designs formed England. by gold or silver threads in the filling. mar- Tapsel 'Calico in various African Tashiari Strong stem fibre of the Deb- other colors. kets, striped in blue and regeasia hypoleuca in India; used for Taquis ' Plain weave cotton cloth from cordage by the natives. Syria. Aleppo, Tassel Tufts of cotton, wool, silk, metal Tarandan Cotton muslin from India. or chenille yarn, with a more or less head and a or Tarare 1, French, pure or cotton mixed ornamental long, open are linen of good quality, used for cur- looped end. The finer qualities for and coat trimmings, tains; 2, French hemp canvas, un- used dress bleached; made about 27 inches while the heavy grades are used on wide and used for furniture covering-. curtains and upholstered furniture. TAS 153 TER

Tassel Stitch In Berlin wool work for Tekke Turkoman Medium size, all-wool, making fringes and is a variety of fringed rugs, made in Turkestan. The the plush stitch (see); it is worked very short and close pile is tied in with a mesh and the wool doubled. Senna knot. The rugs are nearly consists Tat Coarse, East Indian linen. square. The design always in Tat Chotee Native Indian name for jute of square and octagonal shapes old rose and other cloth. crimson, madder, reds as chief colors, beside a little cloth-like bast of Tataja Light, flexible, cream, black, blue and green. These Couratari used for women's the tree, rugs are called "Bokhara" in the garments in Colombia. United States. made Thick woolen cloth, Tekkc Oilcloth floor cover in Germany, with and designs; large conspicuous having a cotton web. The face is used for vests. given damask effect by pressing. lace hand Tatting Process of making by Tela General name for textile fabrics in various with a shuttle by making ancient Rome. loops, forming delicate patterns. Used Bleached cotton cloth in for collars, trimmings, for dresses, Tela del doilies, insertions. Hard twist thread Mexico. is necessary to show the small picots. Telas Para Zarasas Print cloths in Co- Tau Native Samoan name for the lombia. Hibiscus plant, used for fine mats. Tellapatti Variety of raw cotton from Taunton A medium and coarse grade of South India. The staple is coarse. English broadcloth, weighing 11 oz. Telon Coarse, stout droguet, made in per yard; was made since the 16th France with linen or hemp warp and century. woolen filling; obsolete. Taunton Serge 18th century worsted Tendel A variety of biaz (see), dyed blue serge in England; worn by women. with indigo; made in Central Asia. Taurino Coarse, stout cloth made of cow Tender Any fabric or yarn which has hair and wool. Used for rugs, coats, been made weak during some of the etc. spinning or weaving operations. Tavestook A 16th century broadcloth in Tender Fleeces A sort of wool separated England. in wool sorting from others; they have weak in the fiber. Taxili 'Sort of raw cotton from Mace- a place donia. Teneriffe Lace Made in the Canary Is- lands. The patterns consist of wheels. 1, commercial variety of upland Taylor Consists of making cotton from South Carolina, the large Teneriffe Work similar to the filet with star- bolls yielding about 3? per o"nt of laces like patterns. long staple; 2, commercial variety of upland cotton from Alabama, yield- Tennessee Gold Dust Commercial variety ing short staple. of early maturing, very prolific up- same as King. Tcharhad 'Little square hand knotted land cotton, rugs in Persia. Tennessee Silk Commercial variety of identical with Ozler. Tchechen Rugs See Chichi rugs. upland cotton, Tennis Flannel Same as outing flannel. Tchembert White or fancy cotton muslin cotton or in Turkey. Tennis Shirting Soft, twilled, woolen shirting, made in fancy Tcherkess See Circassian Rugs rugs. stripes, often napped on the back. Sort of coarse cotton from Tchesma raw Tennis Stripes Light, twilled woolen Macedonia. dress goods with narrow, colored Tcheutche Closely woven, very soft Chi- stripes. nese washable taffeta. It does not Tent Cloth Stout waterproof cotton crease and is used for garments. duck or canvas, used for tents and Tchillia Silk yarn made in Central Asia awnings. used for warp. Tent Stitch or Petit Point In embroid- Tchusan Chinese fancy colored fabric of ery only half of the cross stitch, re- worsted and cotton. peated. Tearing Goods English cotton and linen Tentering One of the finishing processes fabrics for the African trade. during which the cloth is stretched to a required width and dried. Teasel Process to raise the nap, especial- fabrics ly of woolens, by scratching the cloth. Tepis Coarse East Indian made of cotton and silk waste with colored Teasel Cloth Another name for nap faced fabrics. stripes. Terindans An East Indian fine cotton Tecun strong leaf fibers, yielded Very muslin. by a palm in Brazil and Peru; used for fishing nets and lines. Terlice Fine drill made in France with colored Bear Cloth Fleecy coating made stripes. of wool and mohair, the long nap is Ternaux French shawls made in the 19th raised after the weaving. century of cashmere wool. Teg The first fleece from yearling sheep Terra Nova Sort of raw cotton from that was not shorn as lamb. Sicily. TER 154 THR

Territory Name applied in the U. S. A. Textiles 1, all spinnable fibres and their of the to wool raised west Mississippi. wastes; 2, all laces, embroideries, rugs and Terry Cloth Is woven with two sets of woven, felted, knitted and cro- cheted fabrics. warp and one filling, one warp form- ing rows of loops on the face or back Textilose A jute yarn substitute but or on both sides, which are not cut. cleaner and as durable as jute; it is It comes bleached, dyed, in colored made of twisted paper strips with patterns or printed. The loop piles various short fibre waste imbedded. can cover the entire cloth or form Texture The appearance, number and It is made of cotton, linens, patterns. character of a textile fabric. wool or silk and used for a great variety of purpose. When made of Thardwetch Persian silk brocade with cotton or linen it is also called Turk- hunting scenes as patterns. forms ish toweling. The warp which Thebois An East Indian calico. the loops is dressed on a separate Thermaline secret beam and is kept very slack. In A English process of warp union weaving, a number of .picks are let in, dyeing lustre wool fabrics in solid quite far apart from each other, be- colors. fore beaten up hence terry is desig- Thibet An all-wool stout dress goods or nated as 3, 4, 5 or 6 pick, according coating, well felted and given a to the number of picks put in in one smooth and soft face, showing an in- row of loops. When the picks are distinct twill. Often made with a beaten up they will slide over the cotton warp. It comes usually in stoutly stretched ground warp but solid piece dye or in mixtures. to the the friction is sufficient pull Thibet Shawl Made in France of wool the section of that pile warp with it, and waste silk with various colored each warp between pick, originally patterns woven into. far apart, forming a loop on any or both sides when beaten up. It comes Thickset Obsolete name for cotton velvet weft in stripes, checks, plaids or broca'led made with pile; used for work- effects in various colors. Used for men's clothes in England. towels, bathrobes, etc. Thistle Used for raising the nap on the A modern dress goods called eponse cloth. is made of cotton, wool or silk with Third Combing Wool taken from the loops only on one side. lower part of back of the fleece. Terry Pile Loop or uncut pile formed by Thlinket Blanket Made by the Alaska a separate set of warp. Indians of the hair of the white Terry Poplin 'Heavy corded silk and wool mountain goat; the warp containing poplin, alike on both sides. wool and fibres from the cedar tree bark twisted Terry Velvet 1, uncut velvet; 2, finely together. ribbed all silk cloth used as trimming Thorn Same as Spine (see). in England; obsolete. Thread 1, is made of cotton, silk or Teshike -Lightweight Japanese silk cloth, linen and contains three or more treated against perspiration. hard spun strands or reeled cocoon Tests A large variety of methods for de- filaments. It is given either a soft tecting the presence of certain fibres or a glazed finish and is used for by burning, chemical reaction, micro- basting and sewing. See sewing cot- scopic investigation, etc. Some of tho ton and sewing silk; 2, unit of the important tests for each fibre will be jute and linen yarn measure, equal to found listed under the name of the 2V4 yards. fibre. Thread Fabric Plain woven, very strong, Tete de Boeuf An embroidery stitch, heavy cotton fabrics, made with ply named after a fancied resemblance to warp and single filling, the latter the head of a steer. placed very far apart from each other. The fabric is used for foundation for Tete de Negre 1, French name for a dark tires. brown color; 2, French woolen fab- ric with a knotted face, similar to Threadbare A fabric which lost all its petersham. nap and the foundation threads are Tewly or Tuly Silk thread of the 16th visible. century, believed to have been red. Thready Fabric finished to show every Texas General trade name of cotton thread on the face. grown in Texas and Oklahoma, the Three-Quarter Goods Measuring 27 staple measuring from seven-eighths inches in width. to one inch in length and varying in and Wool the quality according to the season. Through Through fabrics, face and back of which are made Texas Storm Proof Commercial variety alike. of late maturing upland cotton, the Thrown Silk Same as reeled and is staple measuring 23-26 millimeters; silk, made into organzine or tram. the yield is 33-35 per cent. Thrown A Bilk filament Texas Wood Commercial variety of med- Singles single "thrown" with about 15 turns to the ium maturing upland cotton, the inch. staple measuring 22-25 millimeters; the yield is 34-36 per cent; also called Throwing The process of twisting in Peterkin. making organzine and tram. THR 155 TOI

Tire Thrum 1, the end of the warp which is Fabric Very strong and usually not woven but is cut away as waste; heavy, plain woven cotton fabric, 2, to thrum, obsolete, .means to knot, made with single or ply warp and to weave, to knit; 3, obsolete for a usually single filing, this placed coarse yarn. very far apart from each other. The beet grade of cotton often Sea Island Thunder and Same as Oxford Lightning is woven into tire fabrics, which are gray. used for pneumatic tires. silk Tiaoyong Warp printed Chinese Tire Duck See automobile tire cloth. plush. Tiretaine Serge usually made with linen Tibisiri Strong leaf fiber, yielded by the or hemp warp and inferior woolen for Ita palm in British Guiana; used 'filling, occasionally also of all wool. hammocks, cordage, etc. It is a strong, stout fabric, finished either or Ticking >A heavy, stout, stiff, all-cotton pressed with the nap raised; fabric, woven with a heavier warp used for working dresses in France. than lilling in a warp face twill. It Tissu Plume An obsolete 'French - is almost always woven with blue, ing, having goose or swansdown in- brown or other yarn dyed wanp terwoven (without any twist) with stripes; used for and pil- the tilling, into a plain woven cloth. low cases. Tissue 1, name for cloths of gold, said Tie See Bar. to have originated in the 15th cen- tury; 2, medieval silk damask with semi- Tiffany 1, very thin, transparent gold and silver threads interwoven; French silk fabric, used for veils in 3, a very thin transparent silk veil- the 17th century in France and Eng- ing of organzine; 4, muslin or gauze land; very thin, plain woven linen fabrics, woven with an extra and fabric, sized in the finish; .'!, plain much heavier and soft spun filling thin cotton six.ccl woven, very fabric, which forme Jacquard designs or only and used for dyed, making artificial spots. Between the interlacing with flowers. the filling this extra weft is floating Tiflis Khilim portieres made in the and is subsequently cut away; used . for window curtains. Tissute iFrench Tiftik Trade term in Syria for mohair. serge, having eight ends and four picks in a repeat. Twilled and French Tigrine striped Tissuti See Amamee. dress goods made of silk and worsted; obsolete. Titan Braid 'A coarse, flat military braid made of coarse long wool. Called Tihore Native name for a species of the aleo Hercules braid. New Zealand flax (see), the yielding Titre 'French term for the size of the strongest fi'bre for ropes. silk thread. It is expressed in deniers Tikug Native Philippine name for a in Europe. The international denier sedge grass, used for mats. being the weight of 10,000 meters of silk yarn. The titre in and Tillet A highly starched linen fabric, England in the United States is in used formerly as stay for collars, expressed etc. the weight of 1,000 yards in drams. Tobacco Cloth Very light and open cot- Tinampipi A light and sheer fabric, ton fabric, made of short in made of hemp fibres in plain weave staple usually plain weave. It is used for by the natives of the Philippines. wrapping tobacco, antiseptic gauze, Tinnevelly East Indian cotton, having a printed draipery, flags, etc. soft, elastic, clean and moderately Tobine wool made in Nor- fairly strong of a 'Striped fabric, staple lustrous in the 17th white color. wich, England, century. Mat Tobines 'Stout, strong, twilled silk drees Tinnevelly Very fine, bleached grass goods in France. mats made in India. Tochirimen A cotton crepe made in Ja- Tinged Cotton Defective cotton having pan. upots or stains from coloring mat- Tocouy Linen fabric in Argentine. ter. Tocuyos^Gray cottoii sheetings, shirt- Tinsel Very narrow, flat strips of gold, ings, etc., in South America. silver or other metal, used as cover Tocuyos Twilled cotton for core Asargados gray yarn or used directly for goods in Chile. embroidery and brocades. Tod Equal to 28 pounds; used for meas- Tinsuti Cotton cloth made in India of uring wool and top in England. three-ply warp and filling. Toile 1, French term for linen and cloth; Tipiti Elastic, pleated of fabric, woven 2, in hand made laces the body of the various bast fibers in Brazil; used pattern. for sieves. Toile d'Alsace 'Fine thin French linen Certain Tippy wools, like some of the dress goods, made white or printed. merinos, with a top heavy fiber. Toile d'Araigner Open work French Tiraz rich Very Arabian silk fabric with woolen dress goods. names of Sultans and other promi- nent people interwoven; used as ma- Toile Bleue Fine linen dyed light blue. terial to write on in medieval Eu- Toile a Bluteau Sort of bolting cloth rope, when it was solid colored. in France. TOI 156 TOR

Toile a In Chapeau France highly glazed, Toison Lybienne A heavy shrinking wool and stiffened linen or cotton fabric; from the Lybian desert. used for hat shapes. as Toile de Chnsse Damask table linen in Toja Same Bun ochra. France. Tokhfil Two-ply silk thread, rereeled Toile Ciree^F'ine 'French oilcloth. from spools by the natives in Central Asia; used for Toile de Coffre 'French household linen filling. of good grade. Tokmak Rugs All-wool, very durable rugs in Toile Colbert Loosely woven cotton or made Asia Minor, the pile is tied in woolen canvas; used for embroidery. Ghiordes knot. Toile De Coton Light dress goods of Tol A fine and narrow strip of cloth often mixed cotton and linen with woven woven with complicated patterns. stripes and printed patterns. Made by the natives of the Caroline Toile Ecru Unbleached linen. Islands and used as girdle, apron, Toile d'Emballage Packing cloth. etc. Toile d'Embourrure Linen cloth used as Tolotzin White bast fiber, yielded by the lining. (Heliocarpus tree in Mexico. Toile de Frise A very fine Holland linen. Tonder Lace 1, Danish bobbin lace origi- nated Toile de Halles Stout, unbleached linen. in the middle of the 17th cen- tury. Early specimens show Flanders Toile de Laine soft, light weight, Very influence with latter French dress made of merino trolly (see) speci- goods, mens have fine Malines foundation wool, usually all black, in plain weave. with various running designs; 2, Toile de Lille 'Fine French table linen, drawn work made of fine cambric. often made with colored stripes. Tonga Salempore A loosely woven, net- In France name for Toile de Mulquinerie like cotton fabric of plain blue linen ba- color, the finest lawns, , made with wide white headings and a tiste, etc. stiff finish; used for garments by the Toile du Nord 'French gingham, made in natives in South Africa. checks with a smooth finish. Tonje Manga Good quality raw cotton Toile d'Orange -Fine stout calico made in grown in the Shire Valley, South East (France. Africa, and used by the natives. Men- Toile d'Ortie Sort of French batiste made tioned by Livingstone. of nettle fiber. Tonquin White silk dress goods, orig- Toile d'Ourville Unbleached French can- inally from Southern China. vas. Top The longer wool fibers which are French Toile de Paris Obsolete fine, light separated from the noil by combing cotton dress fabric. and are used for worsted goods; 16 Toile de Religieuse French for nun's pounds of sorted wool will yield cloth. from 9 to 12 pounds of top, which is manufactured into Toile Satinee soft and thin 'French yarns Very according to the French draw- cotton gloth, in plain color or .printed. ing (see) or the English drawing Toile de Saxe Plain woven French dress (see) systems. The numbers for tops goods, made with cotton warp and do not always indicate the count of worsted filling. the yarn they can be spun into. The Toile de Sion Medieval printed linen. numbers of Bradford tops and the will are: 28e Toile de Sole Very light, plain woven average yarns they spin 16s 32s 36s silk fabric; used for scarfs. top spin yarn, spin 24e, spin 28s, 40s carded spin 32s, 40s pre- Toile a Tamis Blue buckram, with prom- pared spin 36s, 46s sin 40s, 50 spin inent stripes. 44-4*8, 56s spin 48, 58s spin 50s, 60s Toile a Veste A striped or checked, or warp quality spun 4-8-SOs, 64s spin solid colored, plain woven cotton or 56s, 70s spin 80s, 80s spin 100s, 90s linen fabric, used for lining in France. spin 150s. Toile de Vichy Light French linen dress Toppings Dags (see) and tar brands, cut goods in pink and white or blue and off with shears by the wool sorter; white stripes. used as clothing wool. French Toile Victoria .All-worsted, light Toque An East Indian cotton muslin. fabric of plain weave in the 19th century. Toquilla The veins of the tender leaves of the Carludovica and other Toile a Voile-^Sail cloth. palms, which grow in South America. The Toile de Vosges Coarse, stout, plain wov- fibrous veins are boiled in water, en cotton fabric, made in France for bleached in the sun and with lime the African markets. juice and are split into the required Cloth Another name for quilte. width for the making of genuine Pan- ama hats. Toilet Quilt Lightweight, bleached Mar- seilles quilts (see). Torada Indian cotton muslin. Toilettes French term for unbleached Torchon Simple and cheap bobbin lace lawns and batiste. of loose, thick threads in coarse re- Toilinet or Toilinette ! ng made seau ground in plain patterns, made of silk and cotton warp and woolen in the 17th century; also called beg- filling, made plain or figured. gar's lace. TOR 157 TRO

Tortin Low grade French wool carpets. Treillis 1, French term for the net Tortola Variety of raw cotton from the ground as distinct from the pattern West Indies. in hand made laces; 2, coarse, stout French canvas, made of unbleached To't Term that the velveteen denoting hemp; used for bags, trousers for was cut to the left and not slightly farmers, etc. in the middle of the floats. Trellis Work Embroidery made with Totora leaf the 'Strong fiber, yielded by colored materials, the background be- cat-tail in Peru. flag ing cut away; the pattern is usually Tou iA tine woolen fabric from Thibet. a climbing vine. Toucha The best grade of Georgian Trentaine French dress goods made of wool, has a strong, elastic, white natural wool, having 3,000 warp ends. staple. Tresquille Sort of greasy wool in the Tourangette Lightweight, slightly fulled, Marseilles market. coarse French made white or serge, Tresse French for fancy braid. gray; obsolete. Triblatti Medieval, two colored, rich silk Tourist woolen tweed Coating Heavy coating. overcoating; used for outing coats. Tricala Sort of raw cotton in Macedo- and shorter Tow The coarse, entangled nia. flax fiber, separated from the linen in the hackle; used for tow yarn, up- Tricot 1, French for knitted fabric; 2, binder twine, lining refrig- all-wool, twilled fabric, made with holstering, woolen erator cars, etc. warp and single filling, warp faced, having fine lines running warp- Tow Cloth and coarse linen fab- Heavy wiee. Also made with cotton warp rics, made on hand looms; obsolete. and woolen filling, weft face, the fine Toweling Loosely woven, twilled narrow lines running weftwise. Both are 1 , of slack cotton or linen fabric woven dyed in the piece; 3, an obsolete, fine twist yarn in long strips or in sep- French serge lining, made 20 inches arate pieces (connected sometimes by wide.

the ; used for towels. warp) Tricot de Berlin Plain, knitted fabric of Town Made Trade term for knit goods white cotton yarn; obsolete. made by cutting out the different Tricot Ecossais Variety of crochet parts and sewing them 'together. Is work, made with stitches taking in of British origin. five loops at a time. Toy 1, English woolen dress goods with Tricot Flannel A heavy and thick flan- 'blue and black an 18th checks; 2, nel, which is quite elastic. century fabric worn by women in Tricot de Laine Woolen used for England made of all worsted or mixed suiting in with silk. sailors, etc., France. Tricotine Silk fabric made with black Tracery 'Name for the raised work in Honiton bobbin lace. filling and small patterns. Trina First name used in for laces. Tracing Braid Narrow military soutache. Italy Trinidad of raw cotton from Tracing Cloth Fine, plain woven cotton Variety or linen cloth finished with heavy the West Indies. dressing, but transparent; used by Trinkhalls East Indian silk fabrics em- artists and architects for drawing broidered or brocaded with metal or tracing. threads. Tram Loosely twisted siilk yarn con- Triomphante 'French silk dress goods taining any number of filaments, having brocaded patterns over a rib- twisted two and a half times per inch bed ground; obsolete. to the right, the filaments not being Tripes Hie fabric in France originally subject to any self-twist; used for from Flanders, made with a wool pile filling. It is softer and weaker than and hemp warp and filling. It came orgaiizine and is reeled of the lower in solid colors in stripes or was fin- grades of silk. ished with stamped (gouffre) effect; Trama Name for weft in old Rome. obsolete. de Alfombra A woolen in Trame 'French for tram and for Tripes rug filling Mexico. in general. Triple Cloth .Made with three sets of Tramped Dornoch Scotch linen cloth. warps and three sets of fillings, Traveller's Grass In New South Wales, forming three different layers of yielding a very strong fiber; used for cloth, tacked together during the ropes. course of weaving. Travers French term for various weft Tritinum -Medieval silk fabric, made with striped fabrics. three-ply warp. Traverse Warp Fabric See Milanese. Trois-quarts-fournis A French dowlas. Trawl Twine Is composed of three Trolly Lace 'Term for bobbin laces hav- strands of white Manila hemp, about ing the patterns outlined with a 100 yards in a pound. heavy cord. Treble Leviathan Stitch In embroidery Tronadora Durable bast fiber, yielded by a large, diagonal cross with upright a species of abutMon plant in Mex- cross stitches in the center and be- ico; used for ropes, nets, etc., by the tween the arms of the cross. Indians. TRO 158 TUR

Tropical Cloth Very light men's wear Tufftaffeta Very heavy and stout taffeta, fa'bric, used for summer clothes, made with velvet dots or figures; obsolete. usually with cotton warp and mohair Tufts Figured and printed English cotton filling, showing various colors and velvets; obsolete. designs. Tukes 16th century English woolen fab- Tropical Weight Suitings weighing from ric, similar to buckram. 9 to 11 oz. per yard. Tulle Machine made net of silk or cot- of Trousering A large variety woolen ton; used either as it is for millinery and worsted fabrics, also cotton or dress trimming or further embroid- worsteds, used for trousers. ered, forming lace. The meshes are y rue Fibers are called true which have small and either round or with regular a uniform diameter. or irregular sides and corners. Truffette Fine, narow, bleached French Tulle Crinoline 'Same as pleated tulle, linen; used for handkerchiefs, shirts, made with gradually increasing mesh- etc. es, which force the tulle into . Truitt Late maturing commercial varie- Tulle Grec 'French tulle made with mesh- ty of American cotton, the staple es larger than in ordinary tulle. measuring 22-25 millimeters, forming Tuly See Tewly. the is 30-32 large bolls; yield per Tungchow A better grade of Chinese raw cent. cotton. Trunk Medium long women's Length Tunis Crochet A very easily executed hosiery, reaching above the knee's, crochet, made in work but shorter than opera hose. only straight with single ribs. Truxillo Inferior Spanish wool. Tup Yorkshire name for male sheep. Tsatlee 'Raw silk reeled in northern China, according to the primitive, na- Turbehlik Turkish name for Oriental tive methods, producing uneven and rugs, intended to be hung over graves; the irregular yarn. designs are always tree and flow- er patterns. Tsin-Tseon A Chinese foulard. Turfani Very line wool from Thibet; used Tsudzure-no-nishiki Japanese brocade for rugs, etc. made of strong silk warp and twisted Turk Satin See Satin Turc. gold paper filling, made like gobelins. Turka 'Brown or white colored soft fiber Tsumugi (A narrow and very expensive yielded by the bark of the apocyum Japanese silk fabric made as follows: venetum, grown in Asia and southern the silk is spun into a heavy yarn and Europe; used for twine, baggings, etc. woven into a coarse cloth with cotton Turkey Red 1, a fast and bright scarlet This cloth is run several times warp. dye, yielded by the madder and form- the vat and then buried in through erly extensively used on wool and cot- After the cotton the ground. warp ton preceded by various elaborate the silk is rewoven into a had rotted, processes of mordanting. The modern the which were left un- fabric, spots Turkey red, a fast and brilliant scar- affected in the dye, forming a mottled is a 2. woven kimonos. let, synthetic dye; plain design; used for or twilled cotton fabric of various Tsuni In Chinese markets a very heavily grade, dyed with Turkey red; used for napped wool flannel. dresses, trimmings, etc. Tuanse A Chinese satin. Turkey Red Bleach A bleaching process to which cotton fabrics to be Tuareg Wool rugs made in Morocco. dyed with Turkey red are subject. The Tub In connection with the name of a goods are singed, shorn, washed, fabric (tub silk), means washable. treated with acids and washed, re- Tubular Fabrics knitted or woven, made sulting in a pale cream color. In the form of seamless tubes, as in Turkins A 16th century woolen fabric in hose, knitted neckwear, pillow cases, England. etc. Turkish Knot Used in russ; it is formed Tuck Lightweight cotton or silk fabric, by the yarn being twisted about the made with pleats running from selvage warp threads, two ends of the pile to selvage and formed with a separata alternating with every two threads warp and a filling usually heavier than of the warp. See Ghiordes knot. that used for the ground weave; used Turkish Toweling Cotton or linen fab- for shirts, waists, etc. ric having loop piles formed by a sep- Tuck Knitting Framework knitting, in arate set of warps. Is bleached. Used which a number of loops are accumu- for towels, bath robes, etc. See un- lated on a needle, thus forming the der terry cloth. design. Turkish Yarn Another name for mohair Tuckeries East Indian cotton fabric. yarn. Turkman Rugs See Genghis rugs. Tucum Fine and very strong flber yield- ed by the leaves of the Astrocaryum TurkomanMade with silk or cotton warp tucuma, a palm in Brazil; used for and thick chenille filling; used for ropes, baskets, hats, hammocks, etc. drapery. Tuf^Coarse, French carpet, made of Turmeric A fugitive direct yellow dye strong hemp tow warp and cow hair yielded by the roots of the curcuma in 'filling. tinctoria India and China. TUR 159 UMR

Turquoise 1, worsted serge dress fabric, to impart bulk or strength to the fab- made in colored checks; 2, French ric; 2, in Germany and Austria a satin made with silk stripes on cot- closely woven, twilled (2-1) cotton ton ground; obsolete; 3, lightweight fabric, made of fine yarn; used for French wool dress goods of great va- underwear. riety, made with fine, two-ply warp Twill Shawl Thin, white, diagonal cotton and single, slack twist filling; 4, small cloth, occasionally with black and warp ribbed silk lining. white or red and white borders; used Turui Tough bast fibre, obtained from as head covering in Asia Minor. the Paullinia grandiflora in Peru; Twine Made of cotton or hemp; often used for ropes and cords. glazed; the yarns are doubled first Tuskin A woolen fabric made in Eng- then spun together with a twist oppo- land under Edward VI, believed to site the first one. have been of blue or gray color. Twine Cloth English cotton shirting fin- Tussah Silks 1, general term for wild ished to imitate linen. silks of India and China. They are Twist 1, same as warp; 2, English term stronger usually gray or brownish, for cotton yarn (mule twist). and coarser than mulberry silk and have an uneven diameter. The co- Twist Fabric A plain knitted fabric, each twisted as it is formed. coons are often torn up for waste loop being silk which is used for pile fabric and Twist Stitch Same as cord stitch. pongee; 2, East Indian plain woven Twist on Twist^English mill parlance for silk dross goods, made of brownish yarns with especially elastic proper- colored wild silk. ties, the twist of the two-fold being Tussar, Tussoi iSee Tussah. the same as the twist of the single Tussores (Narrow, line cotton dress goods yarn. made usually of mercerized cotton, Twit Imperfection in rovings, consisting with filling cords. The number of of thin places, causing uneven yarn. that warp ends is twice as much as Twitched Yarn Fancy yarns made with latter the of the filling, the being colored nubs or flocks; name obsolete. coarser; used for dresses in the Unevenly spun yarn. Philippines. Twitty Faced See Double Faced. Twanse Stout Chinese silk satin, fin- Two ished with little gloss. Comes in solid Twofold In England name for two-ply colors or patterns. yarns. Tweed Originally an all-wool, homespun Tyrian Purple Red dyestuff, yielded by and slightly felted heavy Scotch wool- several species of the murex, a snail in en or worsted in blue, black, gray and the Mediterranean; used extensively other solid colors, also in checks made and highly prized by the ancient peo- wools. Later of Scotch cheviot iple. Baxony wool was also used. The wool Tyrlind Striped French dress goods, made is dyed before spinning. The patterns silk and fill- of the tweed are mostly checks, twills with warp heavy schappe cross ribs. and herringbone. The warp is ing, forming usually two-ply and the filling single, Tyrol ienne Fine French dress goods made lighter than the warp. with fine silk warp and worsted fill- Tweel Same as Twill. ing, forming pronounced cords; obso- lete. Twill 1, one of the principal weaves, with a large number of derivations and combinations, in which the inter- section of the threads forms lines running to the right or the left, diag- onally across the fabric, the degree of u the twill lines depending on the twill itself, on the relative size of the warp and weft and on the number of threads of each set of yarns within Besides these addi- a given space. Uki Strong, fibrous grass in Hawaii; tional effects are obtained in the pat- used for cords. tern by introducing various twists and sizes in yarns. Ulang In the Chines markets stout worsted satins. Instead of passing over and under strong each other alternately, as in the plain UlsterLoosely woven woolen overcoat- of hand weave (see), in the twill the threads ing, made right twist warp and left twist of low are raised over or depressed under more filling, usually grade wool, mixed with shoddy. It than one thread. For this purpose at comes in piece dyes or in mixtures. least three threads are form- needed, It is finished with a long nap which ing the three-harness or prunella is pressed down. twill. Other twills, with four har- Umbrella Gingham Plain or twilled nesses, are called the swansdown, colon fabric in black oir other solid shalloon and crow (see). Often two colors, used for cheap umbrellas. or more varieties of twills are being Umritzur An Indian cashmere with a combined for fancy effects. Besides zi'g-zag chevron pattern, very soft and ornamentation *will weaves are used warm. UNB 160 VAN

Unbleached Cotton and linen fabrics, left Urmak Stout and coarse East Indian in the natural "gray" state. fabric, made of camel hair. Uncut Velvet Left with the uncut loop- Urquhart A Highland tartan, composed pile. as follows: Dark green stripe, split Underwriter's Bale See Bessonette. in the center by a very narrow black Undyed Yarns and fabrics left in their stripe; black stripe, less than one third natural color, without any addition of the green; dark blue stripe, of artificial dyeing. wider than the green, split by a red stripe in the center (one-sixth the Unfinished Woolens which are not fulled width of the and and sheared but have a worsteds blue) by a pair nap; of fine black lines near each which have been or shorn very pressed edge. a little, but otherwise are left in the condition as when taken from the Uruca Strong bast fibre obtained from loom. the Arnatto tree in Brazil; used for cordage. Ungummed Silk -Which has the natural gum removed by boiling in solution Ushui Variety of raw cotton from Mace- of soap. donia. Uni 'French for single colored or plain Uso-Sabugia Variety of raw cotton from effect. Anatolia. Uni Colored Fabric died in one color. Utariya (Northern variety of the Indian Uniform Cloths Woolen and worsted ; it is t'he best commercial va- fabrics intended for uniforms. riety, being long, strong and of a light color but somewhat harsh. Unions 1, 'Fabrics having the warp and "weft of different fibers; 2, plain woven Utrecht Velvet Mohair plush with warp or twilled fabric made with cotton pile, used for upholstery, having pat- warp and linen filling, bleached. terns produced by the inclination of Used for outing dresses, drapery, the pile at different angles, which is lining, etc.; 3, in Yorkshire a dress produced by pressing. face made with cotton fabric, warp Uzel Good grade of French linen. and woolen filling. Union Braid 'Worsted or mohair braid, made of more than two cords. Union Carpets In England double car- pets with pile on both sides; held to- gether by a binder filling. Union Cassimere 'Soft, fulled fabric, made with cotton warp and woolen filling; has checks or stripes; used for men's cheap clothing. Vacona 'Tough leaf fibre, yielded by the Union Cloth A napped shoddy fabric, ipamdanus utilis in Mauritius; used made with cotton warp in England. for bags. Union Cord Stout, round cord made of Valance^Damask fabric for upholstery, cotton and linen; used for lacing. made of silk, often mixed with wool; with cotton or lin- Union Damask Made obsolete. en warp and worsted filling, woven with satin 'figures over satin ground; Valencia or Valentia 1, variety of raw used for hangings, etc. cotton from Colombia; 2, Strong, made with Union Dyes A number of colors which stout, warp striped fabric, cotton and worsted filling; used have affinity both for vegetable and warp twilled animal fibres and can be used as di- for livery; 3, light-weight Eng- dress made of rect dyes on union fabrics. lish goods and suiting, woolen yarns, also mixed with silk; a Union LinenMade with cotton warp and heavy English and French waistcoat- linen filling. ing made of cotton thread warp and Union Silk A fabric made usually with woolen and silk filling. cotton warp and silk filling; used as Valenciennes 'Bobbin lace made entire- umbrella cloth. ly flat with natural or conventional- Union Yarn 'Made of a mixture of cotton ized flowers or trailing patterns over and wool. a very fine mesh ground often com- of little circles. The so-called Unwashed 'Wool in the grease. posed "vraie Valenciennes" was made in Upena Native Hawaiian name for bird the town of Valence while the "fausse and fish nets. Valenciennes" elsewhere. Upland Raw cotton, constituting the Vanduara Silk Very lustrous artificial bulk of the American it crop; grows tlibre made of gelatin; see Artificial In the inland cotton States, the liber Silk. averaging from % to an inch in length and has a bright creamy color. Vandyke A pointed scallop in laces and Uppain Variety of raw cotton from embroideries. Southern India. The staple is good Vandyke Stitch In embroidery a raised and long. couching in Vandyke points. Urdiga.^Fine, short staple, silky wool of Vanes Stuffed quilts made in France of Morocco. pique or calico. VAP 161 VEL

Vapeur A very fine and loosely woven Velours a Deux Polls French term for French cotton muslin. velvet with a pile made of two-ply Varinas Variety of raw cotton from yarn. Colombia, white or yellowish, strong Velours Ecrase Silk velvet having highly fiber, not very glossy. finished, crushed pile, lying in different Vasquine Thick, spongy falbric, made of directions. Che fibers extracted from the pine Velours Epingle 'Lightweight, solid col- needles. ored French silk velvet. Vegetable Down See Bomibax cotton. Velours Figure Figured velvet. A coarse, hygienic Velours Francais Obsolete French velvet, cloth, made from the fibers of the made with two sets of silk warp of dif- pine needles. ferent colors, one being single yarn and the other There Horsehair Fibers obtained three-ply yarn. Vegetable are also two sets of different colored from various used as palm leaves; boiled off silk substitute for horsehair. filling. Velours Frappe Velvet having raised pat- Vegetable Silk 1, trade term for artifi- terns produced by pressing the pile cial silk; 2, fibers of various plants, with heated cylinders. having a silky gloss, but usually not the required strength; used as silk Velours Frise Uni Lightweight French si bstitute or for stuffing. silk velvet with single, double or triple used for etc. Vegetable Wool Fiber obtained from the pile; dresses, millinery, comes in solid colors. piae cones; when mixed with wool it is used for underwear. Velours Gandin Silk velvet over satin Veiled Wool Has the fibers of the vari- foundation; used for drapery, etc. ous staples stuck to each other. Velours de Genes Usually all-silk velvet, Veiling Great variety of cotton or silk the warp, filling and pile made of or- nets; used for veils. ganzine. Vein The open place in a cloth, caused Velours Glace A velvet having the pile by a broken warp. slighthly dressed -with size and pressed down in different Vel line "French woolen winter coating; directions, produc- a frosted effect. has a curl pile surface. ing Velours silk vesting, Velour 1, name for flannelette in Rou- Gourgouron^Rich having silk pile stripes alternating imania; 2, large variety of soft, stout with a rep foundation; obsolete. woolen with raised and shorn nap; Velours Gregoire French velvet of the used for coats, suits and dresses. first part of the 19th century, showing Velours French for velvet. pictures woven in pile. Velours Albigeois Dress fabric having Velours de Gueux Velvet made of a sin- narrow velvet stripes. gle set of linen or heavy cotton warp and fine cotton fllling, forming the Velours Silk weft d'Angleterre pile pile. velvet. Velours de Hollande Cut velvet originally Velours Biseautes Velvet galloon with made of all silk, with good organzine on higher pile one edge than on the warp and filling. other. Velours d'ltalie CrossriWbed fabric made Velours Bombes French silk velvet, con- of silk and cotton, the rilbs afternating sisting of alternate stripes of cult with two fine fillings. and uncut velvet Velours Miroii Glossy silk velvet with a Velours Broche 'Brocaded velvet. crushed 'pile. Velours Cameleon Changeable velvet, Velours du Nord Silk velvet having a made with two sets of pile warps, longer pile than velvet but shorter each of a different color. than plush. Velours Chine Silk velvet, the pile -warp Velours OmbreWarp pile velvets, usually made in ombrs effects. of wh.ch is printed with pictures, etc., ribbons, before weaving. Velours d'Oran A warp pile French vel- vet, both sets of containing ends Velours Cisele French for velvet warp upon ranging from single yarns to five-ply velvet; -made with two dif- originally yarns, arranged in natural and re- ferent rods, now the uniform deep versed order several time the entire pile velvet is subjected to heavy width of the fabric. The two sets of pressure, laying down the pile in cer- warps are placed in such a manner tain parts of the fabric. The stand- that the five-ply yarn in one set cor- ing pile is shorn short and the responds to the single yarn in the pressed-down pile is steamed and other, and vice versa. brushed up. Velours Ottoman 'French silk falbris made Velours Couche A velvet woven with a with two sets of warp, one forming the foundation in the other straight silk pile, which in the finish- plain weave, forming floats, half of the warp float- ing process is crushed or laid down; ing on the face, the other half on the used for coats, trimmings and drapery. back. VEL 162 VEN

Velours Ras French for uncut velvet. pattern is engraved on a copper roller Velours Rayes Striped velvet. and is printed with a chemical which will destroy the pile only but not the Velours a la Reine Crossribbed silk ground weave on the back of the fabric, made with one set of wrap fabric. The velvet is next and two sets of the ribs al- brushed, fillings, which process will remove that ternating with two picks of the liner part of the pile which was touched and filling. partly destroyed by the chemicals, Russe Velvet dress fabric Velours made leaving a very sharply defined pat- -with varicolored cords. diagonal term formed by the pile. Velours Sculpte Velvet having patterns The mirror velvet has the pile formed with the pile shorn different pressed down in one direction, re- lengths; see velours cisele. sulting in a very high gloss. Velours Simule Obsolete term for a Velvet pictures, invented by Greg- plain woven fabric made with silk oire, in Lyons, are colored picturss formed the of the velvet. It warp and cotton filling. Both the by pile warp and the weft contain threads of is made as follows: Before weav- various thickness. ing the pile warp is printed with the picture with due consideration of the Velours Travers Half wool dress goods very large take-up. The velvet is then velvet with weft stripes. woven in the plain warp pile velvet Velours Turc French silk velvet with principle, cut, brushed and shorn. curled pile, similar to the cachemire; Velvet is usually woven in the gray obsolete. and dyed or printed according to the Veloute French for napped effect in requirements of the current fashion. woolen and other fabrics. In the dyeing fancy effects are ob- tained by employing cross or resist Veloutine French dress fabric, made dyeing or by dyeing the velvet plain with thick woolen warp, forming and destroying part of the color on cords and soft merino filling; finished the pile by some chemical. Velvet is with a nap. printed either on the or on the Velure pile Same as velours (see). reverse side, the latter employed on Velutine A short pile velveteen, the back chiffon velvets. sized in the finished. The cheaper grades of velvets are woven in two or three widths and Velutum Medieval Latin name for vel- to face, vets. split afterwards, or face the yarn forming the pile traveling from Velveret Usually wide cotton velvets one fabric to the other and is cut be- made to imitate silk, often having tween the two fabrics. or ribs finished with printed designs. Velvet Cloth Embroidery fabric, made The filling usually crosses two warps plain, and given a smooth glossy sur- at once. Made in United England, face in the finish. , States, etc. Velvet Cords 'See hollow cut. Velvet A cut pile fabric, the pile of Velvet Finish Consists in heavily nap- which originally was made of silk, ping woolen fabrics; the nap is shorn now also of wool or mohair. The pile or left as it is. is shorter than that of the plush Velvet Rug^Carpets and rugs woven on (see) and can be formed an extra by the same principle as pile vel- or warp warp the filling (for description vets. see pile fabrics). Velvet Satin A silk fabric made with Plain velvet has a of even pile in over a satin founda- the entire patterns pile depth covering ground. tion. The pile on pile, or double pile, has Velvet Stitch See raised stitch. the ground covered with a short pile while the patterns are formed of a Velveteen lAll-cotton pile fabric woven longer pile. This velvet is either with very short pile; the cheapest are made with one and made (if it is a warp pile fabric), by grades warp one with a weft It is using rods of various thickness, thus filling pile. in or producing the difference in the depth either dyed the piece, printed woven in colors and Used of the pile in the process of weaving. patterns. for etc. Or again the velvet is woven plain dresses, trousers, upholstery, It is of be- with the deep pile all over. In the English origin, originally cotton with raised finishing process the patterns are ing a twilled pile. pressed in under great pressure, flat- Venetian 1, medium or light weight tening out part of the pile. The re- soft and fulled, warp face fine wool- mainder of the pile, which stands en fabric, made of single warp and erect, is shorn shorter, whereupon filling in fine diagonal or warp satin the pressed down pile is brushed up weave. Used for dresses, skirts. again, and as it is now longer than overcoats. It comes In piece dyes the shorn pile, it forms the pattern or mixture effects. Used for coats, standing out from the ground pile. suits, dresses, linings, etc.; 2, a black Brocaded velvet has velvet pattern linen fabric, made in satin weave, on a satin, lame or other foundation used for lining; 3, in England a wide or vice versa. In the costliest pieces heavy tape used for binding uphol- it is made on the Jacquard loom. A stery and for Venetian blinds; 4, ob- much cheaper process of the later solete fabric made with cotton warp years calls for a velvet with silk pile and worsted filling face, used for lin- on cotton ground or vice versa. The ings. VEN 163 VOI

Venetian Carpet Originally made with Victoria Shawl French shawl, made on various colored worsted warp and the Jacquard loom with four em- some cheap filling which was hidden, broidered borders and warp fringes the pattern being on both sides in at both ends; obsolete. warp stripes; of English origin. Vicuna 1, very long, soft brownish hair Cloth Italian cloth. Venetian Same as yielded by the South American vicuna Venetian Crepe Is made with raw silk goat; 2, trade name for yarn com- warp and very coarse tilling, two posed of coarse wool and cotton or right hand twist and two left hand all-cotton finished in imitation of twist alternately; used for mourn- woolen yarn; 3, a very fine, twilled ing. dress fabric, finished with a soft nap, Venetian Embroidery On batiste foun- originally made of genuine vicuna imitation of the dation, the patterns are outlined with wool; 4, above, made of soft often mixed with cot- 'buttonhole stitches, the ground is cut wool, and used away and the parts connected with ton, slightly fulled napped; bars. for men's suits and overcoats. See also vigogne yarn. Venetienne 1, French dress goods made of flne Italian (yellow) silk with Vienna Cross Same as Persian cross ribbed weave like gros de Tours, and stitch. or left in one color; 2, printed French woolen. French woolen dress goods, finished Vigans 'Coarse with slight fulling. Vigogne French for Vicuna. Venise Very fine damask table linen Yarn 1, originally made of a made in Holland and France; the Vigogne mixture of cotton and wool, of vary- consists of large flowers. pattern ing proportions (in Europe 20 per Venise Gold Medieval thread made with cent cotton, 80 per cent wool), used flat linen a gold strip wound around a for cheap hosiery, etc.; 2, in Germany, core. Russia and Italy yarn made of all Venitien Xarrow French runners, made cotton and cotton waste, finished to in stripes; obsolete. look like wool. Verandol In Cuba a linen or cotton pure Vigognia 'Fine English knitting yarn mixed cloth, white or beige. The made of wool mixed with various veg- white is used as dress goods, the beige etable fibers. as bed cover. worsted which was Verdours A medieval fabric in England, Vigoureux 1, yarn, in the sliver a fluted roll, u.st-d for tapestry and thought to be printed by in one French of green color. usually only color; 2, twilled diress goods made of v. yarn. Vermont 'Australian term for wool yielded in Australia by sheep which Vimoutiers 'Coarse and loosely woven descended from the merinos origin- French unbleached linen, sometimes ally imported into the United States. dyed yellow. Verona Serge 'Lightweight serge, made Virgin Wool Any wool which was not of mohair and cotton or worsted and previously manufactured into fabric. cotton in mixture effect. In Virginie 1, French silk fabric, made Vervise A woolen fabric, made in Eng- an eight-leaf twill weave; 2, six or land under Edward VI, believed to eight-leaf figured serge made with have been of blue or gray color. single or ply warp. Vesset A kind of worsted fabric, used in medieval England. Viscelline Trade name for a horsehair made running a cotton Vicanere 'Coarse wool from East India. substitute, by yarn through a bath of cellulose and in Vichy 1, ginghams Chile, Bolivia and then dyeing it. Spain, often in large checks and See artificial silk. plaids, and stiffly -finished; 2, fine Viscose ginghams in Servia; 3, general term Vitrees Several grades of bleached in Turkey for cheap ginghams and French household linen and hemp yarn dyed cotton plaids, usually sail cloths. having a stiff, starchy finish. Light French unbleached linen. Vick A now obsolete commercial variety Vitry of upland cotton, originated from Lightweight, twilled fabric in Mexican seed. England, made of mixture of cot- Victoria 1, a French silk dress goods with ton and wool, used for underclothing. a high finish, made with ply warp Vladimir English cassimere, made of fine and with 8 ends and 8 in a fillings wool and 'finished with a nap. repeat; 2, twilled printed English cotton fabric; 3, a ribbed English Voile A plain woven, light, sheer and silk dress fabric. clear fabric, made of silk, wool or Victoria Crepe English, all-cotton crepe cotton, the last two being hard spun of lustrous finish. and usually two-ply; cotton yarn is Victoria Lawn Plain and very closely The construction ia woven often gassed. heavy English lawn, about 38 very low. Used for dresses. inches wide, having as high as 100 by 175 ends in a square inch. Comes Voile Marquisette A very sheer silk fab- white or printed. Used for dresses, ric, woven in leno weave of fine the lighter weights for underwear. thread. VOI 164 WAT

Voilette French machine-made lace, hav- or lower; as a rule, however, it is ing a very fine mesh ground. Along stronger and often it is placed closer the edge it is embroidered with light together than the weft. The standard flower design while the body is twist for warp is about 4% times the trimmed 'with dotted powdering or square root of the yarn size. Cotton fine trailing lines. warp, as a rule, is twisted to the right, Voiron Fine French household linen of and worsted warp yarn to the left. various grades. Warp is called, also, chain or web. Voivoi A species of the Pandanus in Warp Knitting See knitting. used the natives for the finest Fiji; by Pile Fabrics woven in such a mats. Warp clothing manner that certain of the warp Volant 'Lace flouncing. threads form the pile. Volo Wool and coarse >Long wool, grown Warp Print Same as chine. in Greece, used for worsteds. Ribbed Fabrics having ribs or Vourine (Fine grade of Persian silk. Warp cords running in the direction of the Vraio Reseau In real laces the net ground warp. which was made either by the needle or with the bobbins. Warp Stitch In embroidery, a stitch by which threads are drawn to- all-white hand embroid- warp Vyrizuvania An to form a after some over made the gether pattern ery linen, by peasants of the weft threads have been re- in Ukraine, Russia. moved. Wash Blonde Light colored or white, fine, washable cotton net; used for ruffles and other trimmings. w Wash Goods See washable. Wash Whites See Devonshire kersey. Washable Faibrics which can be washed without affecting the color or finish. Waban made of cord or thick Washer Obsolete for kersey; coarse Eng- 'Netting Devonshire thread with large mesh; used for in- lish woolen; see also terior drapery. kersey. the refuse dur- Wadding 1, sheet of carded cotton, used Waste Fibers which form for quilts, etc.; 2, waste silk, obtained ing the various processes of carding, from the inner smooth skin of the spinning, weaving and 'finishing and cocoon, left over after the reeling. which are being utilized in some in- ferior goods. Wadmoll A thick, coarse fulled woolen; used for men's cheap suits; absolete. Wasty A heavy shrinking wool, owing to of and Wagria Variety of raw cotton from the large percentage grease dirt it contains. Kathiawar, India. The staple is quite coarse. Waterglass Used in weighting silk. Waldemar A good quality of velveteen. Waterlaid Rope In nautics a heavy rope Wale A diagonal raised line formed by twisted of three strands, each, having a twill weave on the face of the fab- three plies; used for hawsers and tow ric, usually woolens and worsteds. lines. Walking Same as felting. Watered Same as moire. Walshe Cottones 16th century English Watermark Spots left on silks and wool- flannel made 32 ells long, % yard ens by drops of water. a 46 Ibs. wide, piece weighing Waterproof A very stout twilled woolen Warang Bast Strong bast fiber, yielded fabric, made in England; used for by the Kydia calycina in India; used raincoats, etc. for ropes. Waterproofing Various processes to ren- Warangul Indian knotted rugs; antique der textile fabrics impermeable to examples are very fine in weave and water, although its porousness is often design. preserved. Some of the processes are: Warnerized Medicated stuffs in England, 1, treating the fabric with rubber, making them mildew, water and moth paraffin, oil. wax, etc.; 2, covering the proof. fabric with a copper solution of cellu- lose and precipitating part of the cel- The set of yarn found in every Warp lulose, this process is only for cotton falbric woven on the loom and run- fabrics; 3, treating the falbric with ning parallel with the selvage, or some albuminous material and then lengthwise in the fabric, and inter- with a metallic salt; 4, treating the woven with the weft, the two forming fabric with soluble metallic salts, various to the the weaves according which are later changed into insolu- of The is methods intersection. warp ble salts. stretched in lines in the loom parallel Waterproof fabrics are used for and certain of it are parts alternately raincoats, sailors' and fishermen's gar- raised and at pick, depressed every ments, tents, etc. allowing the shuttle to pass between with the weft. The warp can be of Watt Silk Very low grade) irregular the same size as the weft or of higher waste silk. WAT 165 WHI

Wattelin In Austria a cotton knitted iron, silicate of soda, glauber and fabric with a loosely spun woolen Epsom salts, size, etc., or they are yarn on the face, which is napped and treated with highly hygroscopic felted. It is very soft and spongy; chemicals, as glycerine, chlorides of used for winter lining. zinc, magnesium, etc., which abstract water from Waulking Name for the fulling of home- the atmosphere and thus spuns, by walking on them, in Scot- increase the weight of the fabric. land. Weighted silk 'becomes "rotten" un- der the influence of the air and the Wax Cloth Cotton or silk made imper- sunlight. As a protection against meable by paraffin; also an oilcloth; this formaldehyde bisulphite is used used for floor covering in England. for treating weighted silk. Weardale Carpet Woolen fabric, used as Cotton fabrics are usually weighted crumb cloth and placed over carpets with the aid of size. for their protection. Welborn Pet Early maturing commer- Weave The effect farmed by the inter- cial variety of upland cotton, the sta- section of the warp and weft in the ple measuring 22-25 millimeters, plain, twilled and figure, satin, pile, forming clustered bolls; the yield fabric. The principal weaves are: is 31-32 per cent. leno and lappet and swivel (see each). Well Covered Cloth showing a faultless Web 1, name for the sliver before it is face. condensed into a rope-like mass of Wellington iStout English army drill; fibers; 2, very strong, narrow, woven obsolete; also a stout English cotton, wool or silk fabric, used for waterproofed woolen overcoating. belts, suspenders, etc. It is made Welsh Flannel and English Flannel elastic, having rubber thread warps originally made in bluish shade with or non-elastic. a broad gray selvage with worsted Is Weft one of the principal sets of yarn, warp and woolen filling, loosely wo- found in every woven fabric. It runs ven and sligthly fulled. Later made crosswise in the falbric, binding the of woolen or cotton warp. warp ends together, the two forming Welt 1, name for pique weaves, produc- the different weaves to the according ing continuous warp or weft ribs manner of While it usual- interlacing. with narrow dividing runs between; ly reaches from selvage to selvage 2, the reinforced edged on top of hos- often it extends only a part of this iery. distance, like in tapestries, etc., form- ing figures. The weft is often of lower Welting Cord A narrow flat braid with a count and slacker twist than the cord forming one edge; used for warp; it is also called woof, filling, binding the edges of garments. pick and shoot. Western Dozens-See Tavestock. Weft PileFabrics woven in a way that Wether Wool 1, a term in England, certain of the weft yarns form the meaning all fleeces cut from sheep pile. after the hogget wool was removed; 2, in Australia the wool shorn from of Weighting The process charging silk, castrated after wool or cotton with various sheep the hogget foreign fleece was removed. matters, to increase the weight and the scroop. The strength and durabil- Whartern Obsolete English measure for ity of the filber is often greatly re- wool yarn, usually meant six pounds duced by it. of slivers or slubbing. The most customary weighting of Wheatear Stitch An embroidery stitch silk is carried out as follows: After made with chain stitch completed the silk is boiled out it is treated in with side (branches in imitation of a bath of tin dissolved in diluted wheat. hydrochloric acid. The silk is then Wheel Stitch 'In embroidery a stitch im- rinsed and treated in a bath of phos- itating spider-web. of washed out and phate soda, again Whip The extra warp thread which the tin bath repeated successively. forms the figures in lappet weaving. This is weighting the silk for deli- It is not interwoven with the fabric cate colors although this weighting itself, except at the end of each run. process is the most customary. The weighting is sometimes several times Whipcord 1, a strong whipcord, made the weight of the silk itself. Besides usually of six two-ply, hardened this the oil used in silk throwing will strands, measuring from six to ten add to the weight of the silk. leas each; 2, a usually solid colored worsted dress with Dyed silk is weighted also in steep- goods diagonal round cords on the face. ing it in rice water or solution of The ribs are sometimes of a lump sugar. "Silk is weighted for different color from the foundation and are color with alumina, antimony, lead, made a raised glue and sugar and most usually with by twill, formed by floating the over tin; for black with tin, silicia and two-ply warp several of the mostly through the iron-gambler single fillings. process. Whip Thread The thread which is Worsteds are weighted either by wound around another in the gauza chemicals increasing directly the weave. weight of the fabric, as sugar of White Calico Name of bleached cotton lead, phosphate of tin, tannates of shirting In South Africa.

1 WHI 166 WIR

White Dutch Trade term for flax retted Williams Commercial variety of upland mostly in the Scheldt, Holland; has cotton, the staple measuring 18-22 pale color. millimeters; the yield is 33-35 per cent. White Egyptian Cotton having a good, long and fairly strong staple of light Williamson Early maturing commercial golden or pearly white color; con- variety of upland cotton, the staple tains considerable broken leaf. measuring 22-25 millimeters; the White Goods Bleached cotton and linen yield is 30-31 per cent. fabrics. Willimantic Commercial variety of late maturing a White Rope Un tarred cordage used on upland cotton, yielding vessels. long staple. Willis Commercial variety of late ma- In as Whiting England same bleaching. turing upland cotton, the staple Whitney 1, stout, coarse woolen used for measuring 33-37 millimeters; the men's wear (obsolete); 2, soft wool- yield is below 30 per cent. the face fin- en overcoating, long nap Willow Fibei Obtained from the bast of ished into rows of tufts. young willow rods by steeping the Whittle In England a heavy, coarse bark in strong lye solution. Used for woolen fabric, used for blankets and twine and bags in Central Europe. shawls. Wilton Heavy machine-made carpets Wick A narrow fabric of very coarse and rugs, with a cut warp pile. The cotton made either soft spun yarn, number of colors used in a pattern flat and left unfinished. or tubular, is limited, each color having an ex- Used in lamps and stoves. tra warp. There are three binding Wide Wales Twilled wool fabrics, same picks to each row of pile. as diagonals. Wiltshire Lace Obsolete English bobbin Widow's Lawn A thin, fine English mus- lace, similar to the Devonshire lace for ornaments. lin, used head Wimberly Commercial variety of late Width The distance between the two maturing upland cotton, the long selvages or edges of a fabric. In for- staple forming large bolls. mer centuries when the construction Wina Thin fibrous bast of a tree in of many of the fabrics was regulated British Guiana; used for wrapping by law, a certain width was pre- cordage, etc. scribed for such at the every fabric, Wincey A strong fabric made of cotton however, the greatest va- present, warp and wool filling in plain weave exists in this riety respect. or twilled; used in England for winter of is The width ribbons expressed underwear and men's shirts. by the number of the line, or ligne Silk (see), that of the woolens and wors- Winder's Waste waste obtained in teds in quarters, one-quarter meas- the process of winding the raw silk uring nine inches. As a rule, goods on bobbins. Used for spun silk. are called narrow which measure 27 Window Holland Plain woven cotton or inches or less, wide which measure linen fabric, given a starch finish 54 inches. A fabric is of single width and used for window shades. when it measures a yard, or less, Window Plaid formed of double width from 48 to 60 inches.- Square patterns by stripes running warp and weft- , Wiggin A heavily starched, wise. open cotton canvas, used for inter- Windsor Plain woven English fabric, lining; usually or black. The gray made with different colored bleached grades are used for shirts. tufts, which are introduced into the fab- Wild Hemp Very white, strong, long, ric in the loom with the aid of little ribbon-like fibres yielded by the ses- hooked needles. bania macrocarpa in Colorado. Windsor Brilliant A washable English Wild Silks or Tussah Silks Produced by cotton dress goods, finished with a various silk worms or other insects high lustre. which are not artificially cultivated. Windsor Duck Printed duck, made In Such silks are often difficult or im- England for summer dresses. possible to reel, are of brownish col- or and of uneven diameter and Windsor Louisine Pine English washable stronger than mulberry silk. Most of printed cotton dress goods. the wild eilk is torn up for waste Winsey See wincey. silk and is used for fabrics or pile Winter Laces Laces of close and firm woven into pongee. The most im- texture, as Alencon, etc., portant wild silks are in macrame, produced of make or China, Japan, India and Africa. irrespective design. Winter Wildbore An XVIIIth century name for Weight Heavy weight fabrics, up to 20 oz. in suitings and to 30 oz. a coarse fabric, made of long, coarse up in worsted in England, similar to the coatings per yard. modern bunting. Wire Grass Grows in swamps In th$ used as in mats Willesden Canvas^Plain woven cotton Northwest, filling and carpets with cotton warp. fabric, rendered waterproof by treat- ing it with solution of ammoniacal Wire Ground The separately made copper oxide and pressing it between raised silk net ground in hand-made hot calenders. Brussels lace. WIR 167 WOO

Wiry Wool with a straight fiDer having carpet wools), Chinese (various car- little elasticity. pet wools), Cape (fine, silky, short Wise Commercial variety of medium wool from South Africa), River Plate maturing upland cotton, identical (crossbred from Argentine), Monte- with Peterkin. video (Rambouillet and other merino strain from Punta Arenas Witch Stitch Same as herringbone stitch. Uruguay), (very spongy wool for knit goods Witney Blanket 'English woolen blank- from South Argentine), Falkland Is- ets, made with dense nap. lands (springy cheviot), Australia Witney Serge English woolen serge, (merinos and crossbreds), New Zea- napped on both sides. land (crossbreds). Wolsted 'Mentioned in 16th century Irrespective of the breed wool is English documents, believed by some divided into two classes: tops and to have been the original form for noils (see each), according to the worsted. length of the fiber. It shows a great Wonderful Late maturing commercial variety according to the breed, meas- to 10 inches or variety of upland cotton, the staple uring up more in while the measuring 35-40 millimeters; the length, weight of a fleece is ranging from three yield is 28-36 per cent. pounds (fine Eng- lish), to 30 pounds or more (as in Wood Silk Same as artificial silk. some South American varieties). For Woof See weft. the commerce wool is put up in bales, Wool The most animal the weight of which varies according important fiber, to the countries. yielded by the sheep and consisting All of the medulla (which contains the kinds and classes of wool of commercial color pigments), the cortical layer importance in Europe and in and the outer layer which under mic- mostly America and Australia have roscope appears composed of num- sprung from the original Spanish erous small scales. The finer the merino. The amount of this strain is in the wool the larger the number of the expressed United States as: full scales which give the felting prop- blood, three-quarter blood, three- erty to the wool. Another character- eighths blood, half-blood, one-quar- ter istic of the wool is the waviness and blood. in elasticity of the fiber, both existing Wool the grease, or as it comes in a greater degree in fine than in from the sheep's back, contains from coarse wools. The various proper- 20 to 80 per cent animal grease, dirt, ties of wool (as length, fineness, felt- etc., which is removed by washing ing, strength, thickness, etc.), are and scouring before the fiber is spun subject to the climate and the breed and woven. The largest quota of the of the sheep, which are being classi- wool on the market is shorn from fied into 32 principal varieties and a the live sheep. The skin wools and large number of sub and crossbred slipes are removed from the skin of the dead varieties. On the average about 5,- animal and each such fiber 000 wool fibers are found on one has a root. Lamb's wool and hogget square inch of the sheep's skin. has one pointed and one cut end while Domestic wools are classed mainly wether has two cut ends. See also as territory wools (from Utah, Mon- wool classing and wool sorting. tana, Idaho, Arizona, and a few other In its properties wool is highly Western -States), bright and braid hygroscopic and has a great affinity wools (or quarter-blood or three- for dyestuffs (except when kempy). eighths blood, from New England, 'When set afire it gives an ammoni- Kentucky, Missouri and Indiana, used acal odor and leaves black crinkled for serges, braid, etc.), and Ohio ashes behind. Diluted acids have no fleeces (from Ohio, Michigan and appreciable effect on wool, but alka- Pennsylvania, the finest American lies produce remarkable change. Con- staple). centrated alkalies produce a high English wools are calssified as long lustre, a scroop and increase con- wools (Lincoln, Notts, Leicester, siderably its tensile strength. On the Cotswold, Hampton, Romney Marsh, other hand a 5 per cent solution of Devon, Roscommon, Wensleydale), caustic soda will completely dissolve short wools (called Downs, contain- wool in a few minutes at a boiling ing Exmoors. Shropshire, Suffolk. point. Weak solutions of chlorin will Southdown, Oxford, Dorset, Wiltshire, give the wool a scroop and increase Hampshire), special wools (middle its affinity for dyestuffs. but destroys length wools, as cheviot, blackfaced, its felting property. When treated Herdwick, Shetland, Welsh). with nitric acid the fiber usually be- Other important wools in the trade comes yellow. Concentrated mineral are: Silesian merino (from Germany, acids completely destroy the wool yields the finest wool), the Rambouil- fiber while it readily absorbs organic let wool (France), the donskoi (or acids. washed coarse wool from South Rus- sia), Awassi, Bussora and Karadi Wool Backed Fabrics with a silk or (carpet wools from Mesopotamia), worsted face and woolen back. Bagdad (merino strain from Mesopo- Wool Classing A process of separating tamia), Georgian wools ,for the finest the fleeces, as a whole, into several carpets), Indian (coarse crossbred classes, each even in quality, regu- wools), Persian (white or colored lar in length and color. woo 168 YAC

Fabrics of Wool Wool Dyed made which/. Woolen Yarn 'Made of carded, short been before has dyed spun into yarn. staple wool, the fibers being placed Wool Extract Wool recovered from rags, in every direction; the diameter of waste, etc., containing cotton, the yarn is uneven. the through, carbonizing process, Woolsey iMade of cotton and wool, used the cotton which destroys fibres but for dresses by English country folk. leaves the wool behind. Woosie Short Chinese wool with a The of Wool Sorting process dividing glossy and soft fitoer. the fleece into different qualities or ' Worcester^ Woolen fabrics made since counts, according to length, fineness. the 14th in West soundness and color of the staple. century England. According to the breed and variety of Worsteds 1, a large variety of fabrics the wool and the requirements of the made of long, combed wool; 2, in manufacturer the fleece is divided in- England name for shoddy, obtained to more or less sections, as follows: from worsteds. shoulder (yields the longest, finest Worsted Rays Medieval, heavy, striped and most even wool), sides (yields worsted, used for floor covering, etc. but sound the stronger very wool), Worsted Yarn 'Made of long combed sides of the neck (shorter and finer wool fibers, which lie quite the with parallel; wool than on shoulders, it has an even diameter. tendency for gray hairs), the back Wrack Sea used for coarse of the neck (irregular and faulty grass, ropes and stuffing. staple), the loin and back (short and weaker staple), the rump and tail (long, strong, often very coarse and kempy fiber), upper part of back legs (long, coarse wool), upper part of front legs (short fine, burry wool), X bellies (short, fine and dirty), breast (kempy and short fine wool), shins and head (very short, kempy wool). These various sorts of wool are designated either by the quality num- X In the United States wool trade de- ber, denoting the fineness of the notes a full blood or high grade me- yarn they will spin or called by vari- rino wool. ous names (matchings). Xerga Spanish term for serge; twilled terms for the vari- The American woolen blanket in Spain. ous with their approximate qualities, Xtuc Native Mexican name for a scrong equivalents are: Fine (equal English white leaf extracted to about 64s to 70s in Bradford), lustrous, fiber, from the Yucca half-blood (58s to 60s), three-eighths plant. blood (52s to 56s), high quarter-blood XX Soft 1, English mill term for very (50s), low quarter-blood to quarter- soft and yielding folded thread, the blood (42s to 46s), coarse, common single yarn containing about twice and braid (36s to 40s). as many twists as the doubled; 2, in English matchings in worsteds are: the United States wool trade denotes fine (from the shoulders, spin about full blood merino wool. 44s), blue (from neck, spin 40s), neat XXX In the United States denotes wool (from middle of sides and back, spin from a cross between a Saxony and 36s), brown (from the haunches, spin common merino. 3>2s), britch (from hind legs, spin 24s), Name for a bleached cotton fab- cowtail (from the rump and legs, Xyllna ric in the Roman spin 18s), down rights (short wools Empire. from the neck, spin 40s), seconds Xylodine Name given to a paper yarn (from the belly, spin 32s), abb (from made by twisting and coating with the haunches and less, spin 24s). glue and fiber a strip of paper. Merino qualities are denoted by the Xylolin 1, plain woven fabric made of number they will spin, with the ad- cotton and yarn filling. dition of the term "super" (for very warp paper and "weft" or Used for cheap working clothes; 2, long), "ordinary" in and the suitability of the paper yarn made Germany "warp," showing Austria. Used for and back- wool. The Botany grades are: super- carpets ings for carpets. fine, middling and common. The English matchings in woolens are called: picklock (shoulders), prime (sides), choice (middle of (back), super (middle of sides), sec- onds (lower part of sides), down- rights (neck), abb (nina legs), britch (haunches). Wool Twine Made of twisted and glue- sized paper ribbon. It is used for tying wool together and is soluble in Yachan Silky seed fiber of the chorisia water. insignis, used for stuffing. of Woolens A large variety of fabrics; Yacht Cloth 'Piece dyed, fine flannel, made of carded wool, often mixed a serge weave with a rough finish; with cotton. used for clothing. YAG 169 YAR

Yaguayagua iPibrous bast yielded by a 3, by the combination of the two, as species of the Genipa in Peru; used in the cloud, spiral, colored nub and for coarse clothing by the natives. colored loop yarns. Lace Coarse English bobbin lace, Yarns are twisted either to the made of yak wool, imitating Maltese right-hand or the l't-hand direction, guipures. the number of twists per inch express- ing the degree of the process. It is cus- Yaka Strong bast flber, yielded by the tomary to twist cotton to the bean in the Fiji Islands; used warp yarn right while worsted and for nets. hand, warps fishing woolen are woven made single yarns spun usually Yaktara Thin, plain fabric, with a left-hand twist. Ply yarn is of the in Thibet of the hair yak. twisted in opposite direction to the Yamamai A species of wild silk yielded twist given to the singles composing by the Antheraea in Japan and it. Yarns for warps are usually China. twisted with more turns than yarns Yannovich Variety of Egyptian cotton. still fewer twists per inch. Yarns re- more or less twist than cus- Yard Goods Textile fabrics woven in a ceiving tomary are called hard spun and soft and retailed by the yard. long piece spun. and made in Yarkand Large heavy rugs While there is no rule ad- with cotton web and strictly Central Asia hered to in the degree of twist Im- wool tied in Senna long, loose, pile parted to yarns, certain rules are Chinese influence is knot. The very usually observed in figuring the num- in the of marked design, consisting ber of turns required per inch. For fret or other dragons, pattern, fish, linen yarns this is figured by multi- in animals, mostly bright yellows, the square root of the lea of etc. pinks, reds, blues, greens, the yarn by 1% for weft yarn, by Yarn A continuous strand of spun fibers, 1% for light warp, by 2 for full warp used for weaving or knitting. See also and by 2% or 2% for thread. Aver- thread and rope. Besides being spun age jute yarn of 3 Ib. grist is usually by hand, as it is still done in many given 8 twists for warp and 6 for parts of the world, yarn is manufac- filling; 6 Ib. grist 6.5 twists for warp, tured in a large variety of ways. Cot- 4.2 twists for weft; 10 Ib. grist 4.87 ton is spun with the ring frame (less twists for warp, 2.89 twists for weft. expensive) or the mule (produces a The standard twist for cotton yarns finer twisted and softer yarn than the is figured by multiplying the square former). Flax, hemp, jute and ramie root of the number (co_unt), of the are spun either in dry state (for a yarn by 2.5 for hosiery and soft spun soft full very strong line or a and yarn, by 3.2 for filling, by 4.75 for tow yarn), or in wet state (for much warp and by 5 for extra hard twist finer counts than the former). For yarn. methods of worsted spinning, made In woolen and worsted yarns the of tops, see Bradford system and number of twists depends on the French system; such yarns are spun length of the flber and the various on the rings (for the softer yarns requirements as to the smoothness, finest on the from the merino wool), softness, etc., of the cloth. Below (for fine merino and crossbred), will be found a number of particu- lus- on the flyer (for low crossbred, lars often observed in the given tre wool and hair ya_rn), and on the cases. soft and full dress mule (for very Crossbred 40s 9 of short singles: warp goods and knitting yarns twists per 12s weft are on Inch, 3% turns, wool). Woolen yarns spun 20s turns. a which weft, 7% self-actors, producing yarn lustre 36s weft and uneven than English singles: 5% is more fuzzy, roug-h twists, 40s weft 6 twists. frame For ailk see organ- spun. yarn Botany singles: 40s warp 10 twists, zine and trame. 60s warps, 13 twists, 20s weft 6% Yarn is made either single (consist- turns, 40s weft, 9 turns, 60s weft, 12 of one strand twisted in one di- ing twists, 80s weft, 13 twists, 90s weft, or folded rection), or ply (consisting 16 100s 130s or twists, deft, 18% twists, of two or more strands, plies, weft, 20 twists. twisted in directions opposite to that Mohair singles: 40s warp griven to the composing strands). 10% Yarns are made either of one kind twists, 48s warp 12 twists, 32s weft of fiber only or contain a mixture of 8 twists, 40s weft 9% twists. Alpaca two or more kinds of fibers, as for singles, 30s weft 10 twists, 40s weft 11 instance union yarns. As to the ef- twists. fect, yarns are classified as plain (sin- Crossbred, doubles: 30s warp 10 gle color throughout the entire yarn twists, 40s warp, 12 twists, 16s weft with uniform thickness and twist), 6% twists. and fancy. Fancy yarns, which can English lustre, doubles: 40s warp be singles or ply yarns, are produced 10 twists, 60s warp, 13 twists. 1, with the aid of color effects, like Botany, doubles: 24s warp 10% the mixtures, containing variously twists, 36s warp 13 twists, 48s warp dyed fibers, the Vigoureux (see), and 14 twists, 56s warp 15 twists, 60s the double-and-twist; 2, by the aid warp 15% twists, 100s warp 20 twists. of irregular twist, as for instance, Moliair, doubles: 40s warp, 11 twists, solid colored nub and loop yarns; or 60s warp 15 twists. YAR 170 YUR

The unit of measurement for cot- Yercum Very strong fiber yielded by ton yarn is the hank of 840 yards a species of the asclepias in South- (in Continental Europe 1,000 metres ern India; used for ropes; same as to % kilogramme). Mundar in North India. For linen yarn in England one bun- Yerges Thick, coarse, felted woolen fab- is 200 cuts or dle 162-3 hanks, leas, ric, used for horse blankets. 24,000 threads, 60,000 yards; in Scot- Yerioth In the Bible curtains made of land one spangle is equal to two linen or hair. hasps, four hanks, 24 heers, 48 cuts, goat's 5,760 threads, 14,400 yards; in Aus- Yerli Fine staple wool yielded by the tria one schock is equal to 12 bun- sheep near Smyrna, called kivirdjik, dles, 60 pieces, 240 hanks, 4,800 cuts, having small horns and a narrow 288,000 yards; for French shoe tail. Used for carpets, cloth, blank- threads 1,000 metres per kilo is the ets, etc. unit. The Dorsel and Somerset sys- Yesteklik Turkish name for small mats, tem is based on the weight of 21,600 having a soft pile and used for pil- or a "dozen" of yards, yarn. lows; also called Anatolian mats. The unit of measurement for jute yarn is the same as the Scotch sys- Yeux de Perdrix Obsolete French dress tem for linen yarn given above. In good, made of wool and silk in diaper Holland the count is expressed by weave. the weight of 150 metres of yarn in Yishbizh Xavajo blanket made with hektogrammes (0.22 Ibe.). diagonal stripes. In worsted the number of yarns Yistlo^Plain woven woolen hanks (each of 560 yards) in one Navajo blanket. pound is the count of the yarn, in (Continental Europe the number of Yokohama Crepe Very fine, close woven 1,000-metre units in a kilogramme. crepe, for coats, etc., not transpar- In America for woolen yarns the ent. unit is the number of 1,600-yard Yomud Rugs made of wool and goat hanks contained in a pound ("run" hair in Turkestan with mediu mlong, system). In the Philadelphia dis- close pile. The design consists of trict the cut system is in use, the diamonds with angular hooks around count being the number of 300-yard the edge in the center and trailing, "cuts" in a In the pound. England angular vine or stripes in the borders. Aberdeen is: One thread system The colors are blues, warm reds, to 120 (unit) equal 2% yards; greens, etc. threads one cut, two cuts one heer, Yorkshire three heers one slip, two slips one Planned Good quality Eng- hank, two hanks one hasp, two hasps lish flannel of natural wool. one spyndle or 14,400 yards. In Scot- Yorkshire Tweed Made of shoddy or land the Galashiel count is the num- wool and cotton to resemble tweeds. ber of cuts in 24 ounces. 300-yard Youghal Lace The best among the Irish The or of the silk count, litre, point lace; see Irish point. yarns is the number of deniers (5.313 grammes), a skein of 500 metres will Ypres 1, fine medieval worsted from weigh, although the Milan Turin and Flanders; 2, bobbin lace similar to the the old Lyons systems call for 476- Valenciennes (see), having a square metre skeins. mesh ground, the threads being Folded yarns are numbered simi- twisted four times around each other. larly as singles, with the number of composing strands also indicated. Yucca Fiber Coarse, but very strong Yarn Dyed Fabrics, the yarn of which fiber, used for twine, cordage, etc., was dyed before woven. yielded by the Yucca filamentosa. Yatahy Fiber yielded by the leaves of Yuchausa Camlets in the Chinese mar- a palm in Paraguay; used for string, kets. etc. Yuenching Chiyong (Black Chinese wool in of thin YawsFlaws cloth, consisting plush. places. Black Chinese Yaxci Very soft, flexible and lustrous YuencHing Suchienyong sisal hemp from Yucatan. velvet. Year Round Cotton Raw cotton former- Yuenching Wacheinyong Chinese figured ly grown in the West Indies. velvet. Yearling 'Wool obtained at the second Yuling 'Lasting (see) in the Chinese year's shearing. markets. Yechigo Chijimi Fine light weight dress Yuruk 'Rugs Small and very durable goods, made of the leaf fibers of the rugs made by the nomad Yuruks in banana tree in Japan; used for sum- Asia Minor of goat's hair or dark mer dresses. wool. The long wool pile is tied in Yei Blanket 'Made by the Navajos with Ghiordes knot. The design is com- the figure of yei (god) woven; very posed of very large but simple geo- rare. metrical devices of brilliant colors Yellowing The propensity of heavily over a dark brown field. They are dressed bleached goods to turn yel- 'finished with a selvage all around low as the result of disintegration of and the ends have a short fringe or the bleaching chemicals. braid. YUT 171 ZUL

Yutun Wool camlet made in China in 3, washable fine lightweight cotton all widths, used by natives for winter fabric, made in plain or twill weave, checks clothing;. The warp is of silk and woven in many colored stripes, the filling of wool. and plaids or corded stripes. Used for a term often used Yuzen Japanese silk crepe, with printed dresses, etc.; 4, to describe fabrics of light texture. pattern" Zephyr Planned Very soft, fine woolen flannel, mixed with silk. Zephyr Gingham Fine sofe gingham, fin- ished without dressing. Zephyr Yarn Soft spun worsted yarn, made of soft merino wool with three or more strands; used for embroid- ery. Zerak Dark blue cotton shirting used for Zacate Mexican name for various spe- native dresses in the Sudan. cies of fibrous grasses, used for mats, Persian double faced silk fab- ropes. Zerbase ric interwoven with gold or silver carpet wool, yielded Zackel 'Coarse, long threads. by the Hungarian sheep. Zibeline 1, a thick, woolen coating with Zafiri Raw cotton of brown staple, a and laid grown in Egypt. long, straight glossy nap, down and entirely covering the fabric formerly made of Zambelotto A weave. The yarn is heavy and con- the Levant. mohair in tains some mohair. The nap is Zanella Serge, made with cotton warp raised after the weave and then used for lining, and worsted filling; pressed down; 2, wool yarn with nubs and umbrella covers. of undyed wool of another sort, usu- Zanzibar Cloth Gray cotton goods, made ally mohair. in India. Ziz-Zag Twill A twill weave, producing Zappara In Southern Europe the agave a zig-zag effect. used in horse blankets, fiber, braids, Zinc Used as a resist in calico printing etc. (in a fine dust form), and for soft Zapupe A white, strong, glossy, weighting silk. and fiber yielded by a species pliable Chloride Used as of of the agave in Mexico; used for Zinc prevention mould on textiles; in the manufac- ropes and coarse fabrics. ture of lakes, etc. Zarasas Ordinary cotton prints in Latin- American countries. Zins General trade term in Russia for the best of taken Zellner Early maturing commercial var- grade flax, formerly tax. iety of upland cotton, the staple by the church as measuring 20-25 millimeters; the yield Zirkas In Germany and Austria a wool- 30-3 cent. is per en or worsted dress goods, made in fabric of the Zenana A light matelasse four-leaf, even-sided twill in vari- last stripes of satin century, having ous colored patterns. and gauze. Zulu Cloth Twilled and closely woven Zephyr 1, thin, fine woolen dress goods cloth used for embroidery foundation from Belgium; 2, local name in Ja- maica and Porto Rico for ginghams; in England. 172

ADDENDA

Aga The inner bark fiber, obtained Balbas Tough stem fiber yielded by the through maceration from a variety of vine of a creeper in the Philippines; the Ficus tree; used by the natives of used for cordage by the natives. the Philippines for and coarse ropes Baliti 'Plain coarse cloths. woven fabric, woven by the natives of the Philippines, of Agpui, or Batia, or Catipu A strong bast the bark fibers of the arandong tree. fiber yielded toy a species of the Bast fiber yielded by a species Hibiscus tree in the Philippines; Bangar of the Sterculia, a large tree in the used for fabrics, cordage, etc. Philippines; used for ropes by the Anilo 'The inner bark fiber of a shrub natives.

(Grewia columnaris) ; used for twine Bast fiber yielded by a and cordage in the Philippines. Baquembaques species of the Helicteres, a tree in Anonang A white, lace-like inner bark Luzon, P. I.; used for cordage by yielded by the Cordia myxa, a tall the natives. shrub in the used for Philippines'; Stem fiber of the Eugenia oper- .cordage by the natives. r- eulata, in the Philippines; used for Artonas A fiber obtained from the inner twine and cordage by the natives. bark of branches of the Anona re- Beimen trade term for Amer- a small the natives Japanese ticulata, tree, by ican raw cotton. of the Philippines; used for cordage and twine. Binagacay The best variety of the Manila hemp. Aramay The bark fibers are used by the natives of the Philippines for cord- Bisaya A variety of the Manila hemp age and twine. in Negros, P. I.; yields a very strong, coarse, white fiber. Arenga -Saccharifera The tough and dark leaf fibers of this palm are used Byzantine A clear and light weight by the natives of the Philippines for summer dress faJbrdc, worn during cordage. the middle of the last century; it was made similar to barege. Artocarpus Camansi This evergreen tree yields a very strong inner bark Camarines A variety of the Manila fiber; used for ropes by the natives hemp in Negros, P. I.; yields a tough, of the Philippines. coarse and glossy white fiber. Aya Momen General trade term for Campapalis A very durable fiber yielded twilled cotton fabrics in Japan, espe* by a plant in Pampanga, Philippine cially drill. Islands; used for cordage by the natives. Babaian The fibrous bark of this tree is used for making wearing apparel by Castuli Bast fiber yielded by the musk the natives in the Pampanga prov- mallow in the Philippines; used for ince, Philippine Islands. cordage by the natives of Luzon. Babaquet A strong stem fiber yielded Colias The net-like inner bark of the a tall in by the B., a creeper used for cordage Gnetum scandens, climber, the used for Tiets by the natives of Abra province, Philippines; fishing by the natives. Philippine Islands. Colotan Very strong stem fiber yielded Bast fiber yielded by the Gnetum Bago by a species of the Urena, a peren- in the gnemon, a tll shrub Philip- nial herb; used for ropes. pines; used for twine and cordage by the the natives. Danli Strong bast fiber yielded by Grewia laevigata, a tree in the Phil- Bagucon Strong fiber yielded by the in- ippines; used for cordage by the na- ner bast of a creeper in the Philip- tives. pines; used for ropes by the natives. Bast fiber yielded by the Dracon- Balanac Very strong fiber yielded by the tomelum mangifera, a tree in the B. tree in the Philippines; used for Philippines; used for cordage by the twine and cordage by the natives. natives. 173

Enile Hand knotted wool rug of Asia Kama Japanese trade term for the cot- 'Minor, made with a thick pile. ton cop. Franneru 'Flannelette in Japan. Kanakin Generic trade term in Japan for a variety of plain woven cotton cotton Fukuji A hand woven Japanese goods, shirtings and print cloths. goods, made both in plain and twill weave, usually like a fine duck, ply A hand woven cotton fabric in white yarns being used; police and school- Japan, showing irregular blue It is made boys' uniforms are made of this ma- checks on a ground. terial. in plain weave of yarn, which is tied up at certain intervals with a Futahaba Kanakin Gray shirting in string before dyeing. These places Japan, made about 30 inches wide; remain intact by the dye and form used also for printing. the white spots. It is used mostly for clothes for the native school chil- Futako Trade term in Japan for striped dren. cotton fabrics (used mostly for kimonos), made with ply warp. Kata Aya^-General trade term in Japan for twilled cotton shirtings. Guiote Native name for a species of in- ferior cotton in the Philippines; Kazeto Japanese trade term for a spool yields short fibers. containing about 54 feet of hand spun cotton Gulistan Good quality hand knotted yarn. wool rugs, made at Oushak, Asia Kiapo A strong vegetable fiber in Minor. the Philippines; used for cordage and coarse cloth by the natives. Hakamaji A Japanese cotton fabric, made on land looms, mostly in plain Kinisol A variety of the Manila hemp in in blue weave. It comes usually and Negros, P. I., yields a coarse, white white stripes and has cross ribs; fiber. used for men's skirts. Kohaba Japanese trade term for narrow Hambabalod Bast fiber yielded by the width in fabrics. Nauclea obtusa in the Philippines; Kokura A hand woven Japanese cotton used for cordage. fabric, made in plain or twill weave Hanadiang Strong bast fiber in the and comes in five varieties, all hav- ribbed effect. Philippines; used for cordage by the ing natives. Kokura Hanaoji A hand woven Japa- nese cotton fabric made of ply yarn, Strong fiber yielded by the Hanagdong with weft cord effect. In weaving inner bark of the Callicarpa cana, a three or four warp ends are drawn

shrub in the ; used for Philippines through one heddle. This cloth is cut, cordage by the natives. into strips, rolled and sewn together" to form cord for the Japanese clogs. Hibiroto Japanese trade term for a spool containing about 25 feet of hand spun Kokura Kabanji A cotton duck made on cotton yarn. hand looms in Japan, mostly ply yarn being used and weft cord effect pro- Hijokufu Quilts in Japan. duced; used for trunk covers. Hi Kanakin 'In Japan cotton cambrics, Kokura Obiji A hand made Japanese dyed Turkey red. fabric, made of silk warp and cotton or of all cotton with weft cords. Indowata trade term for raw filling Japanese It is usually plain woven and comes India. cotton imported from mostly in dark blue with a single Inillo A species of cotton growing wild plain or ornamented stripes; used for by the natives. in Antique, P. I., yields a strong fiber. Kona Plain woven cotton faib- Iro Momen Nankeen, made in Japan, Bukuroji ric in Japan; used for flour bags. and dyed in imitation of the genuine article. Kuriwata Japanese trade name for ginned raw cotton. Jabo A very tough bast fiber in the and coarse bast Philippines; used for cordage. Labog A strong fiber, yielded by a species of the Malacha Jingi Trade term in Japan for hand (wild okra) in the Philippines; it is ginned cotton rolled into a hollow similar to jute and is used for cord- tube. age. Bast fiber, a species Jipguid Bast ifi'ber, yielded by a species Lapnis yielded by in the of the Ichnocarpus, a climber in the of the China grass Philippines; used for cordage. Philippines; used for fishing nets by the natives. Lingi A fine and silky leaf fiber in the Philippines; used for cordage arifl Kachoji Mosquito netting in Japan. cloth by the natives. colored Kaisarich Rugs Very bright Lit! A strong cloth made of the inner hand knotted rugs; the cotton or fibrous bark of the paper mulberry silk pile is tied in Ghiordes knot; by the natives of Kandavu, Fiji made in K., in Asia Minor. Islands. 174

Lono A variety of the Manila hemp in Salaoag A variety of the Manila hemp Negros, P. I.; yields a fine, glossy in Negros, P. I.; yields a coarse, white fiber. white fiber. Malapao Bast fiber of the Dipterocarpus Samorong The most valued variety of vernici'fluus, in the Philippines; used the Manila hemp in Albay, P. I. for cordage. Cariko Bleached cotton shirt- Malasiag Bast fiber, yielded by a species ing in Japan, made about 36 incnes of the Ardisia in the Philippines; wide. used for ropes. Sarashi Kanakin Plain woven bleached Malidlong The lace-like inner bark of cotton shirting in Japan. is several this tree placed layers Shikifugi Cotton bed sheeting in Japan. thick and beaten into a solid fabric by the Filipinos which is used for Shima Momen Striped cotton fabrics in blankets. Japan. Malo or Masi 'Native name for the fib- Shinawata Japanese trade term for raw rous inner bark of the paper mul- cotton imported from China; the berry in Fiji; used for clothing and principal qualities are designated by nets by the natives. the Japanese as: Tungchow (the best), Peis'hi, Nansi, Hankowv and Maretz A light silk crepe dress fabric, Tienchin. worn in the middle of the last cen- tury. Shiro-momen General trade term in Ja- pan for unbleached (similar to nan- Masi See Malo. keen), and bleached plain woven cot- Men Chijimi Cotton crepe in Japan. ton goods. The harrow, plain woven cotton fabrics, made on hand looms Menhofu Cotton duck in Japan. and half bleached or often dyed blue are also called this used Menneru Trade term in Japan for flan- by name; nelette. for and clothes for the peo- ple. Men Shusu Sateens in Japan. Silhigon Bast fiber yielded by several Mihaba Kanakin Japanese cotton shirt- species of the Sida, a perennial shru'b ing, made about 45 inches wide, to in the Philippines; used for twine imitate certain English fabrics. and cloths by the natives. Milassa Hand knotted all-wool rugs of Sofu -Plain woven unbleached cotton Asia Minor; the pile is tied in Ghior- sheeting in Japan, made usually 36 des knot. They come either in striped inches wide and 44/44. design or in prayer rug patterns, Sultana 'Lightweight, striped dress fab- with old gold as leading color. ric, made of mohair; used for sum- Miwata Japanese trade name for un- mer dresses in the 60's of the last ginned cotton. century. Moro A variety of the Manila hemp in Tancao A variety of the Manila hemp in P. Negros, P. I.; it yields large quantity Negros, I.; yields coarse and glos- of strong, coarse and glossy white sy white fibers. fiber. Tenjiku Japanese trade term for T Nainsook Local trade term for tanjibs cloth; is usually made 31 inches wide in East Africa. and without any colored ends. Namihaba Kanakin In Japan a gray Tenuguiji A soft and plain woven cot- cotton shirting, made to imitate the ton fabric; used as toweling in Ja- English goods brought in formerly. pan; it comes in 12 and 15 inch widths and often hand printed. It is Nipis A plain woven fabric made by the also used for table covers, center- natives of the Philippines of the leaf pieces and extensively for advertis- fibers of the Agave. ing. Ozu In Aya the Japanese trade means Tugop Bast fiber, yielded by a species of cotton jean. the Artocarpus tree in the Philip- pines; used for twine and cordage. Pangihan Bast fiber yielded by a tree in Unsai Trade term in for twill, Luzon, P. I.; used for cordage by the Japan 2/2 natives. heavy cotton fabrics, made in her- ring-bone twill effect; the warp is Quillo Seed fiber in Antique, P. I.; used ply yarn, two weft threads being shot for coarse fabrics by the natives. through each shed at every pick; used mostly for soles on socks worn Rabo de Leon Very strong leaf fiber, by the natives. similar to Manila a hemp, yielded by Sofu and wo- species of the Sanseviera in the Phil- Usuji 'Lightweight plain ven cotton in ippines; used for cloth by the na- sheeting Japan. tives. Wata Japanese trade term for raw cot- also called menkwa. Repousse Lace The design consists ton; mostly of dots, also of flowers and Yaka Strong and coarse stem fiber of a leaves which are raised like blisters creeper in Fiji; used for twine and and are pushed in in the back. fishing nets by the natives.

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