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Dictionary of Textiles by Harmuth Louis

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Dictionary of Textiles by Harmuth Louis PICTIONI\RY GIFT OF J DICTIONARY OF TEXTILES B Y LOUIS HARMUTH FASHION EDITOR OF "WOMEN'S WEAR" 1915 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING COMPANY NEW YORK FAIRCHILD PUBIISHING CO, Copyright 1915. PREFACE The tendency in modern books of a technical character undoubtedly in- clines very strongly toward encyclopedic and dictionary forms. The cry for the saving of lime calls for books in compact form with information handy at a moment's notice. The present DICTIONARY is the result of 7'/2 years of collecting and compiling information, gained to a large extent in connection with my work on the Daily Trade Record and Women's Wear. With over 6,600 terms and definitions contained in it, this DICTIONARY is as nearly com- plete, in number of terms strictly relating to textile fibres and fabrics, as it is possible for a work of this kind to be. It was my desire to present in the DICTIONARY and within as small compass as practical the largest number of terms and definitions possible, re- lating to textiles from the fibres to the finished fabrics and everything which goes into them in the course of the manufacture. An interesting part of the DIC- TIONARY contains names of fabrics, now obsolete, with as complete a de- scription of their character as it was possible to find in various old laws, wills, lists and in the technical literature. Owing to the fact that manufacturers con- stantly have recourse to some obsolete fabric in search of new effects, details of manufacturing and finishing of such materials ought to be interesting. While it was the intention to include textiles found in use in every country throughout the world, owing to their importance special attention was given to French, English and German textiles. The South and Central American re- publics with their markets, which are interesting to the American importer have been covered, for the first time I believe, in this DICTIONARY. It was thought advisable to include among the terms incorporated in this book the names of the more important chemicals and to indicate their uses in the course of textile manufacturing and finishing, as the character of a fabric is greatly altered by the application of various chemicals in the finishing process. 394167 Although originally intended to include copyrighted names in the DICTIONARY and although a number of them have been collected, they Were not printed, inasmuch as a great many, especially those relating to cotton goods, refer to fabrics of practically of identical construction and finish, and thus their presence mould have meant only unnecessary duplication. The names of a great many articles usually sold in dry goods stores, as for instance needles and buttons, as veil as the names of garments and machinery, are not included in this DICTIONARY. The terms found in the DICTIONARY are arranged in alphabetical order, each term discussed independently and placed in its proper position. The combination of the alphabetical order with grouping of the terms according to (he subject they refer to, like knitting, laces, etc., as it is found in one of the latest textile dictionaries published in this country, while it affords some obvious advantage, presupposes on the part of the reader a certain knowledge of the meaning and relation of the particular Word, which is often the very knowledge sought for and so should not be taken for granted in advance. In describing the various fibres the expression "variety" is not used in a strict botanical sense but rather as referring to the group of plants to which the fibre belongs. In conclusion, I will add that on the general subject of textile dictionaries, it occurred to me that such a work, accompanied by actual samples of the fibres and fabrics themselves (such as are available on a commercial scale at the pres- ent), would be a most useful guide for manufacturers, importers, exporters, merchants and the student. Owing to its magnitude, such a work 'would be be- yond the capacity, both financially and physically; of any single person. It is hoped that under the auspices of some of the public libraries or museums, funds will be made available for collating a dictionary of that kind. New York, November, 1915. LOUIS HARMUTH. BIBLIOGRAPHY Adams, F. M. : The Dry Goods Man's Handy Dic- Dooley, Wm. H. : Textiles. tionary. Dresser, Christopher: Japan, Its Architecture, Albee, Helen R. : Abnakee Rugs. Art and Art Manufactures. American School of Correspondence: Cyclopedia Ellwanger, W. de L.: The Oriental Rug. of Textile Work. Fa 1 cot, P. : Traite Encyclop-edique et Methodtque Ashenhurst, Thos. R. : Design in Textile Fabrics. de la Fabrication des Tiasus. Baines: History of the Cotton Manufacture. Felkin, Wm. : A History of the Machine-Wrought Baker, Wm. Henry: A Dictionary of Men's Wear. Hosiery and Lace Manufacture. Balls, William Lawrence: The Cotton Plant in Fiedler, K. : Die Appretur der Bander und Lltzen. Egypt. Frauberger, Tina: Handouch der Spitzenkund. Banerjel, N. N.: Monograph on the Cotton Fab- Ganewindt, Dr. A.: Farben der Seide. rics of Bengal. Gardner, Paul: Die Merceri&atlon der Baumwolle. Barker, Alfred F. : Analysis of Woven Fabrics. Gardner, Walter 'M. : Wool Dyeing. Barker, Alfred F. : Wool Carding and Combing. Georgievics: Chemical Technology of Textile Barker & Priestly: Wool Carding and Combing. Fibers. 1 Bean & McCleary: Chemistry and Practice of Gonse, Louis: I Art Japonais. (Finishing. Guertler, Max; Spinnerei und Zwirnerei. Beaumont, Roberts: Color in Woven Design. Guest, Richard; A Compendious History of the Beaumont, Roberts: Woolen and Worsted (1915). Cotton Manufacture. Beaumont, Roberts: Finishing of Textile 'Fabrics. Hannan, Wm. I.: Textile Fibers of Commerce. Beauverie, J. : Les Textiles Vegetaux. Harris, Henry T. : Monograph on the Carpet Beck, S. Win.: The Draper's Dictionary. Weaving Industry of Southern India. Beeoh. Franklin: Dyeing of Woolen Fabrics. Hedrick: Cotton .Spinning. Beech, Franklin: Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics. Heermann. Paul : Dyers' Materials. Beeton. S. O.: Dictionary of Industries and Com- Heiden, Max: Handwoerterbuch der Textllkunde. merce. Herzfeld: Yarns and Textile Fabrics. Bell, T. F.: Jacquard Weaving and Designing. Heuser. E. J. : Die Apparatfarberel der Baum- Bennett & Co., Frank P. : A Cotton Fabrics wolle und Wolle. Glossary. Hey 1 in, Hy. B.: Cottons. Linens, Woolens, Silks. Bennett & Co., Frank P.: Woolen and Worsted Holt, Rosa Belle: Rugs, Oriental and Occidental. Fabrics Glossary. Hubner, Julius: Bleaching and Dyeing. Bersch, Dr. Joseph: Lexikon der Farben-Teohnik. Huish, Marcus B. : Japan and Its Art. Bezon, M.: Dictlonnaire des Tissus. Hullebroeck, Adolphe: Defauts du Tissage. Bible. Geo. W. & Dan'l P.: Pocket Dictionary of Hummel, J. J.: Dyeing of Textile 'Fabrics. Dry Goods. Hurst: Silk Dyeing, Printing and 'Finishing. Biechoff, James: A Comprehensive History of the Ivey, G. F. : Carding and Spinning. Woolen and Worsted Manufactures. James. John : History of the Worsted Manufac- Black, A. & C. : Oriental Carpets. ture in England. Both, Otto: Die Bandweberei. Japanese Works of Art From the Mosle Collec- Both & Krissiep: Kalender fur Bandweberei, tion. IFlechterei und Posamentenfabrikation. Jefferys. T. : Collection of Dresses. Bowling, Torn : Book of Knots. Johnson, Alfred S. : Technical World Magazine. Bowman: Structure of the Cotton Fibre. Johnston, W. & A. K., Ltd.: The (Scottish Clans Bowman: Structure of the Wool Fibre. and Their Tartans. Bradbury, iFred: Calculations in Yarns and Fab- Jourdaln, M. : Old Lace. rics. Kastanek: Manual of Weave Construction. Bradbury, Fred: Carpet Manufacture. Knecht and Fotfaerglll: The Principles and Prac- Broadbent, J. T. : Cotton Manual. tice of Textile Pninting. Brooks, C. P.: Cotton, Its Uses, Varieties, Etc. Knecht. Rawson & Loe wen-thai: Manual of Dye- Buckley, M. M. : Cone Drawing, Ing. Burnley, Jas. : History of Wool and Wool Comb- Knepsoher, Walter: Die Appretur der Seiden ing. Halbseiden und Samtgewebe. BasheM. S. W. : Chinese Art. Koch, Alex.: Moderne Stickerelen. Butterick Publishilng Co.: Embroideries and Their Kretpchmer & Rohrfoach: Costumes of All Na- Stitches. tions. Carter, Herbert R. : Spinning and Twisting of Langton, M. P.: How to Know Oriental Rugs. Long Vegetable Fibres. Latlmer, C. : Carpet Making In the Punjab. Carter. H. R. : Flax, Hemp and Jute Year Book. Lef ebure, Ernest : Embroidery and Lace. Carter, H. R. : Flax, He/mip and Jute Spinning Lapperhoff, Bernhard: Die IFlechterei. and Twisting. Lind, John W. : Handbook for Carpet Salesmen. Caulfleld. S. F. A.: The Dictionary of Needlework. Lindsay: Cotton Carding. Clark. W. A. Graham: Various Monographs. Lister, John: Manufacturing Processes of Woolen Cole, Alan: Ornament in European Silks. and Worsted. J ,i itirs : Cole, George S. : Dictionary of Dry Goods. Logan, Maolan's Costumes of the Clans Cotton Plant, Its History, Varieties (Government of 'Scotland, Printing Office, Washington, D. C.) Logan, James: Scottish Gael. Day & Buckle: Art in Needlework. Lord: Decorative and Fancy Textile Fabrics. Depierre. Joseph: Elementary Treatise on the MOLaren, W. S. Bright: Spinning Woolen and Finishing. Worsted. Despierres: HIstoire du Point d'Alencon. Mark, Gustav; Die Technik des Tischzeug Dillmont, Therese de: Encyklopaedde der Weib- Damastes. lichen HandarbeLten. Marsohik. Samuel : Die Torsion der Game und Dodge. Ohas. Richnrrt: Descriptive Catalogue of Zwlrne. Useful Fibre Plants of the World. Matthews, J. Merritt: Laboratory Manual of Dona t. Franz : Jacquard Weberei. Dye<ing. MaMhews, J. Merrltt: Textile Fibers. Eiegl, Dr. Alois: The Vienna
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