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AN ISSUE OF CollectionS

THE!NEW FORMAL ’S!STELLAR!SHOW"COMPLETE WITH!A!FULL!ORCHESTRA" CAPTURED!THE!FALL!SEASON’S MORE!DRESSED#UP!VIBE

KANYE: LOVE HIM OR HATE HIM? TISCI TELLS TALES GENDER BENDER ANDROGYNY REIGNS STARS RUNWAY TRENDS THE GLOBAL GUY JONATHAN’S SONG A MOMENT FOR NEW YORK’S DYNAMIC DUO

FEATURES CONTENTS 66 64 52 44 42 30 over the past decade. past the over business million-plus $200 a built have Neville David and Wainwright Marcus Bone’s & Rag IN!THE!RAG!TRADE MAKING!IT! MOMENT ! ! KANYE'S and his use of social media. androgyny about controversy the wear, men’s in career his about up opens Tisci Riccardo designer TISCI'S!TAKE had a major influence. already he’s but years, few a for business in been only has Anderson Jonathan !UP THINGS ! SHAKING aesthetic is hardly new. gender-bending the but looks, androgynous with season this filled was runway The !LINES BLURRED Collection M with scenes the behind peek A HIS!TAKE fashion week adventure. week fashion whirlwind his during Badia Alex collaboration with . acclaimed critically a with fall for through breaks finally wannabe designer and star hip-hop The ’s fashion director director fashion ’s

CollectionS

Veneta and . Page 46 Page shoes. and scarf Veneta and ’s co #on . Bo#ega wear fabrics. Here, Caruso’s , many in heritage men's with looser silhoue#es on and has been for updated fall LOOSENING!UP "!The tailored

PHOTO!BY!RODOLFO!MARTINEZ

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CollectionS : : Page 6 CollectionS

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@jimmooregq on

*** ' PHOTO OP @louisvui

By Luis Campuzano

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By Lorelei Marfil and Natalie Theodosi ON CARNABY STREET bristles Umberto Angeloni, chairman, chief Row is dedicated to trade and not lifestyle,” don’t call it Italy’s Savile Row.street—justmen’s wear Milan’sofficial AS TAKINGSHAPE IS GESÙ VIA Peter Jensen. This spring, minimalist accessories line Alfie each season; recent partnerships Transmission.include Lee, OtherScotteVest also collaborates and bels with this a yearrange includeof labels London-based sen, ChristopheLemaire andStephanSchneider.men’s New la- brand Tourne de rope, and the U.S., Green, including PeterCraig Jen- pion emerging design talent. shop onSavile Row andrevamped theconcepttocham- and label Storeclothing b their closed Beattie Kirk and Street, which opened after cofounders Matthew Murphy 13 streets of even has its own hashtag—#Carnaby. for men in particular. The quarter-mile and areaa tight focusthat’s on , madethe area up remains a hot spot— PLC, a string of concept stores and independentcliché territory. boutiques, But thanks to canny landlord Shaftesbury Carnaby Street and LONDON, its SWINGING WITH environsSYNONYMOUS could have easily slipped into TL WNIG SWINGINGSTILL “It’s an improper comparison. Savilecomparison. improper an “It’s Among the hottest properties is Other/shop on Kingly The multibrand shop offers a range of labels from Eu- from labels of range a offers shop multibrand The CollectionS Men's wear, Italian style. *** : : Page 12 Via Gesù: The Gentleman’s Street restaurant Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone The building also houses the sophisticated mainly from the 15th andartifacts, 16th centuries. other among paintings, and musical instruments, ceramics, sculptures Valsecchi museum, displaying tapestries, wear brands, and to the exquisite Bagatti are viewed as prime customers for men’s convent,guests affluent whosecentury 15th- former stately a in Hotel, Seasons January, the brand’s first in Italy. unveiled a Caruso flagship on the street in 300-year-old heraldry,” says Angeloni, hotel, amuseum orresident with families who lifestyle. Savile Row doesn’t havestreet. “Viaa Gesù five-staris a marketed Via Gesù as Milan’s men’slong has whowear SpA, Caruso Raffaele of executive officer and majority shareholder The executive was referring The to executive the was Four referring touristy das and Comme des Garçons. and limited-edition collaborations with such brands as Adi- Boys Club and IceCream labels and offer exclusive pieces space will house collections by Pharrellflagship in MarchWilliams’ on Carnaby Street. Billionaire The 800-square-foot upcoming releases include a collaboration with Rita Ora. and artists including Neighborhood, Spezial and itedNigo, editions andas well as collaborations with various brands U.K. Other locations are in Korea, China and Germany. Originals store, the Originals brand’s flagshipfirst in the collection shoesof made with only natural materials.sneaker label Novesta will team with the Japanesestore on a machinery.capsule In addition, the Slovakian will create a shirt line, a six-piece collection made leatherwith oldaccessories, and British shirtmakers Tripl Stitched developwill Douglas small and bags exclusivean of line salotto Billionaire Boys Club is set to open its first European lim- exclusive and customization offers flagship The Around the corner, on Foubert’s Place, is the Adidas [salon] of Italian and relevant to today,” detailsAngeloni about stresses. of the thefull dusty, be to history, it of want end didn’t we “But the year. it’sat more anecdotalavailable be will Gesù Via destination site, for example, andpedestrian-onlystreettheturningainto a book on commissionhas been created to propose is not deserted at night, after storesthe close. executive, A proudly noting neverthatseen theanything streetlike this,” comments the soon-to-be-opened . “I’ve Barba Noli, Cacciari Salvati,Sartoria, Zilli, Doucal’s, Uman, Barrett,and Tincati,,Kiton, Silvano Lattanzi, LucaDe Doriani, place. take shows runway label’s the where headquarters remain in the same palazzo, brand’s livethe to Viaand used in Gesù VersaceGianni courtyard. arched its in

In January, Caruso, and and Rubinacci Caruso, January, In Other men’s stores on the street include BETWEEN BETWEEN THE LINES PACK! THE RUNNING! WITH then it gets complicated,” explained Franck no-shows, which forces us to overbook, and “Thirty percent of reservations turn into really in place for purely practical reasons: desirable, you might guess. But the policy is no reservations—to render the place more Olivier Rousteing, a Belle Epoque regular. best friend,” said Balmain's creativecan invitedirector Rosie [Huntington-Whiteley]but really French. I can invite my mom there,or I my mix of people and a good vibe. Not too fancy, dining in the city. Rousteing suggests the fish tartar. 23 euros, or just over $25, for a main course. heydays are surely yet to come. that as the backdrop, La Belle nightclubEpoque’s frequented by fashion’s eatery-cum- a coveted into Raspoutine elite. With on the map, and most recently venuesturned Chezas Le Palace, Queen andclub Cabaret scene, he previously helped Parisput suchnight owl and fixture in the city’s buoyant from a less glamorous future. judicial sale, arguably saving the brasserie Maillot, who purchased the premises in a has emerged as turn-of-the-century decor, La Belle Epoque original an against Set district. opera Paris’ and its latest den is a former cabaret in The fashion Don’t bother calling: The restaurant takes “You feel it’s a different Paris. It has a casual Prices are relatively are relatively Prices Maillot is no stranger to the business. A fashion and art books.— to Luciano Pavarotti, a marblehigh-profile fireplacecustomers, from Cary Grant and of sort of a photos with room, men’s-onlyclub included also Rubinacci venue, new the In women. than faster shop to preferthey as men, with hit a is half,” a and hour one in shop can “you where in Naples in 1932, contends that the street, Rubinacci, who opened his tailoring shop distinguished,” highly saysit’s and Barbera. Milan, in one have we the Finally dressing. gentlemen’s for become street now while a for has Gesù Via the street. “Without going to Savile Row, Montenapoleone. Via from away their flagships inaugurated on the exclusive Barbera street, Luciano a few steps Luca Rubinacci, grandson Gennaroof touts the potential of crowd f le dernier cri cri dernier le amously moves in packs, gentle. Count about — Paulina Szmydke Paulina Luisa Zargani in fashionable

CARNABY!STREET!PHOTO!BY FRANCISCO!GOMEZ!DE!VILLABOA; GESUKEYSTONE/HULTON!ARCHIVE/GETTY!IMAGES london John Ray John the London shows. MAN collective and Fashion East during he had showcased his line as a partthe of don Collections: Men last June. Previously, presentedsolo showhis first during Lon- in London, Green Saint Martins Central stores and online. a new line sold at select Urban Outfitters Select, Champion for chosen also was who making them more fantasy,” adds Green, the everyday, like looking at but cal clothes, but rather twisting the view of LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize. forthe again once short-listed been has tions are a bit escapist,” says Green, who manipulation. wear that’s heavy on fabric research and work-with hisutilitarian,deconstructed quest to “twist the view the of everyday” MEN’S wear talent Craig Green is EMERGING on a perpetual LONDON’S A textile and men’s wear graduate of A textile andmen’s of wear graduate - c e l l o c never“It’stheatri- making reallylike r o s ow h s f o d n i k t s e b e h t l l “A CollectionS : : Page 14 ! Dunhill fortable pieces clothing.”of [shape] and easy fabric, and are quite com- clothing on the rack, they have a of feelvery veryboxy extreme, but when you see the that his collections have to sell. takes his business seriously, aware perimental on a variety levels,of he way to add value,” he says. tions. And we’ve washed them in a certain manipula- human through them reduce use and fabrics ugly orwe cheap fabrics also we But textile. high-end of kind a or unusual textiles. kind of allows us to push the use theof strange possibilities within using it?’the greatThis elements always thisof fabric? What are ‘What we can do with this fabric? What are in his designs. came layered under .rolled, Theand colorpatterned sweaterhouettes vests were roomy,and plaid trousersSil- Burton. were even Richard and often Osborne John types such as Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud, a sportier suit, an easy take on the brand.” gether,” Ray says. “So I for them to wantedput a look to- or weekend sporty to give them stand. They know how to for It’s an guys to form. easy language under- wear it. It’s harder forms. “I think about a suit knowsvarietya of take can elegance that like a school uni- he Dunhill—but at Fridaysdress-down tired the suit—indeed,of he’d like to ban IT’S NOT THAT JOHN RAY HAS “We start the conversations asking, conversationsasking, the “We start Green counts fabric as a key element His inspirations come from a variety At first glance, he says, the outfits “kind Green’sWhile ex-are designs using started recently “We’veonly To wit, Ray’s f irst runway outing as cre- as outing runway irst f Ray’s wit, To wardrobes of 20th-century creativenot by Savile Row, but withrather suits and bysilhouettes the inspired ative director for Dunhill was awash Breakout !BRANDS. !BUZZY !MOST !THE !OF !SOME !ARE HERE !STORM. BY SEVERAL!DESIGNERS! HAVE!TAKEN !THE!FASHION!MARKET grown Craig Green london emotion. struct garments.” con- differentwaysto and fabric tech high- function, of wear, ideas religious workwear, “utility including places, of ard Burton once owned. A big alpaca Rich- wasthat mink one big on the based , cobalt blue and yellow ochre—while death—raw sienna and umber, vermillion discovered in Bacon’s studiopalette after took theits cueartist’s from the leftover paints things people will buy them,” says Ray,says them,” buy will people things a big challenge, butwe if make beautiful coming in. It’s a competitive market and andgetthenew thebrand, guys tion of clothes. We’ve gottochangethepercep- on money spending are men “Young Ferry.activistOtis pro-hunting the and ist Guy Gormley, musician Gwilym Gold models.Theythe art- side the included along- walk audience—to target his of .with ashearlingliningandfluffy fur mas, while a St. Moritz-ready came paja- striped over layered luscious was But all of his collections start with with start collections his of all But Ray cast stylish young bucks—part bucks—part young stylish cast Ray STARS Green Craig BETWEEN BETWEEN THE LINES experimental and the accessible.” a constant battle between the visual, the ness. You know, we are dressing men. It’s can access. At the end the of day, it’s a busi- experimental and doing clothes that men hardof to find the balance between being left- a brain, right-brainis battle. “I thinkstudio it’s kind design the in day every Beckham. David for trainers Featherlite Project, designing a pair bespokeof Adidasand collaborated with Adidas on its All-in when he revamped the brand’sskov. baseball He ,won the New ers WalterEra VanXC Beirendonck and PrizeHenrik Vib- in 2010, Creative Award, and has worked for design- 2012, Green won the L’Oréal Professionnel working.” of ing bit comes. It’s kind a of weird process the show, and then through that, the cloth- to] color blocks, and then to the rhythm of sharp. “There’s an elegance to the British Dunhill,Ray stillwanted it ultratraditional the toned-down thanonewould expect of break from fashion. who joined Dunhill in 2013, after taking a a -up Friday,” he says. down Friday here. I want to ban it and do Ray’sown colleagues. “We have dress-be to likely are aesthetic fresh brand’s . way the Ray himself like much were worn with , Somehigh- ets resemblingsmocks. artists’ the loose, round-shouldered jack- worn as casually as dressing and ness.” Cue the plaid and houndstoothgentleman—and that comes from wooltimeless- While he’s riding high, Green admits After graduating from Saint Martins in “It’s something spiritual. Then it [goes Even though his fall look was more but- Long live the suit. the of taste a get to men first The

—Samantha Conti —Lorelei Marfil

JOHN!RAY!PHOTO!BY!ANDREW!VOWLES Typewriter Edition Bret Easton Ellis, Los Angeles.

PO 3109V persol.com CollectionS : : Page 16 BETWEEN THE LINES

“OUR"PRODUCT"IS"INTELLECTUAL.” #MASSIMO"PIOMBO

“THE AMOUNT OF ECCENTRICITY After a four-year collaboration with in a society has generally been propor- Neapolitan tailoring firm Kiton, MP tional to the amount of genius, mental Massimo Piombo collections are now vigor and moral courage it contained,” produced in a factory directly controlled the British philosopher John Stuart Mill by the company, and use exclusive fab- once wrote. rics developed by small textile producers An intellectual designer like Massimo across Europe. Piombo would surely agree. But in his case, For example, for his eccentricity is not synonymous with extrava- fall 2015 collection, which MP Massimo Piombo gance, but corresponds to a particular taste he showed in January at for details; rich, vivid tones and fabric combi- Pitti Uomo in and then in Mi- nations—all elements found within his MP lan, Piombo offered alpaca from Austria, Massimo Piombo line, which made its debut silk and wool from France and cashmere MILANin the men’s wear market in 2011. Previously, from Scotland. he operated the Piombo brand, which was Although his collections are recogniz- discontinued when the MP line launched. able for their bold color combinations, the “Our product is intellectual,” says Pi- designer also pointed to the high quality ombo, who stands out from the crowd of the materials and the unique fit as es- with his bullish, headstrong manners that sential ingredients that set the line apart. reflect a very specific, somewhat snobbish “I’m all for subtraction,” he says. fashion vision. “When you have a coat, two jackets and In keeping with the brand’s philoso- two trousers, you are fine. I don’t believe phy, Piombo opted for select distribution. that men’s wardrobes should be huge, but His collection is sold in stores including I think they should include pieces featuring Dover Street Market and Bergdorf Good- the right shapes and fabrics.” man in New York, United Arrows and Piombo says his ideal customer “is Beams in Japan, 10 Corso Como in Mi- a person more interested in intellectual lan and Mrporter.com. In June, it will also things than business, who thinks outside Massimo be available in the brand’s first flagship, the box and has a particular, but not ridic- Piombo which will occupy a town house in the ulous look. MP Massimo Piombo doesn’t Brera district, the former studio of Italian aim at a specific age range—we can dress interior designer Gae Aulenti. “My vision men age 25 to 100,” he adds. “I think it’s a circus, which doesn’t help tion of photographers. “The most elegant is to offer things not meant to follow com- Even so, it’s unlikely his clothes will be developing a concept of elegance,” says Pi- and self-respecting people are those less will- mercial dictates, but products with very featured in the images flourish- ombo, referring to people’s increased obses- ing to be involved in this kind of thing.” special peculiarities,” the designer says. ing across all social networks. sion to overdress in order to draw the atten- —Alessandra Turra

Sarah-Linh Tran and Christophe A NEW ERA HAS DAWNED AT THE la- reason why we wanted this evolution in but there will be a greater selection and Lemaire bel formerly known as Christophe Lemaire. the branding and logo, because we we production is being upgraded to make For starters, it has been renamed Le- were reaching a new stage in the recogni- the line less artisanal. maire to reflect the fact that the former tion of the brand.” “The collection will be sharper and Hermès creative director has been code- Tran, who is primarily responsible for more varied. We will show a larger col- signing the line with his partner, Sarah- women’s ready-to-wear and the brand’s lection, with a very quality oriented posi- Linh Tran. Then came the news that visual identity, had a large hand in rede- tioning,” he explains. Uniqlo has tapped the French fashion signing the logo, which does away with The fall collection included the brand’s brand to design a special men’s and wom- the three-leaf clover that was the design- signature workwear-inspired jackets, but en’s collection that will launch for fall. er’s personal emblem. even the more upscale offerings—such The label’s new identity and corporate The reorganization of the house co- as a gray double-breasted lamb’s wool design were unveiled at the men’s show in incides with the end of Lemaire’s tenure coat—came dressed down with a cardi- January, which served up lux- at Hermès, but it was already underway gan or tank top. urious outerwear and tailored before he parted ways with the maker of These were clothes for a man Lemaire suits tempered with a casual Birkin bags and silk in October. who wears his status symbols lightly. attitude. The same month, The Lemaire label, which in De- Cropped pants and high ankle Lemaire presented its first pre-fall collec- cember joined the Chambre Syndicale telegraphed a laid-back attitude, while tion and launched an e-commerce site. de la Mode Masculine, is also expand- draped knits or a swooping black “We are aware we are reaching a kind ing its men’s wear offer. Lemaire says gave a slightly feminine allure. of maturity,” LemairePARIS says. “That is the the concept would remain the same, —Joelle Diderich PANSINI ! PAOLA ! BY ! PHOTO PIOMBO ! MASSIMO !

CollectionS : : Page 18 BETWEEN THE LINES

“MY"PRODUCT"HAS"THE"ABILITY"TO

WORK"IN"VARIOUS"SITUATIONS.” #JOHN"ELLIOTT

“I TRY TO DESIGN FOR MYSELF such as Air Jordans, Bo Jacksons for the show. “We didn’t do an official col- John and look in my closet for what I want and Andre Agassis. laboration with Nike. LeBron James be- Ellio# and what speaks to me,” said designer He formed John Elliott + Co. in spring came a very early adapter to the brand and John Elliott. 2012 with his longtime friend and tutor a longtime supporter of what we do. It also Known for fusing athleticism and luxu- Aaron Lavee, and delivered his first collec- so happened that the NBA All-Star Weekend ry, Elliott thinks organically yet innovative- tion the following spring. “People always coincided with New York Fashion Week, so ly, transforming favorite men’s wear staples tell me, ‘don’t work with friends,’ but I can I wanted to commemorate that.” into approachable, relaxed-fit essentials. honestly say that we have the best synergy Asked about what inspires his designs, Three years after launching the brand, El- and work relationship. I have no problems Elliott says: “I wish I had the perfect answer, liott made his New York Fashion Week de- letting people know that I’m extremely dys- but the truth is, I don’t typically sit down at but in February, drawing praise from buyers lexic. School was torture for me and Aaron my desk and design. This morning, for ex- and press and attracting marquee names to was my tutor in the fifth grade and on. We ample, I woke up thinking about how I’m his front row, including , Victor really built this implicit trust. He knew my going to Japan and Southeast Asia next week Cruz and J.R. Smith. strengths and weaknesses and helped me get to get inspiration for spring ’16. When I trav- Elliott, 32, grew up skateboarding in through things that were difficult for me. He el back I’ll ask myself, ‘what do I want [to San Francisco, which had a heavy influ- is like the brand architect for our brand. I get express]?’ That’s typical of how I design.” ence on the collection. “It was the pre- so creative and crazy—it’s great for someone He describes the John Elliott man as a tech era, and skateboarding was the al- to take their vision and ultimately create it. I guy who seeks comfort in uncomfortable ternative sport that was on the cusp of always asked myself, ‘How the [hell] can we situations. “My dad always told my broth- becoming a mainstream thing,” he re- pull this off ?’ He’s the guy that pulls it off.” er and me, ‘Interesting people [move] out- calls. “All the best skaters were flocking For fall, his collection offered up mono- side their comfort zone.’ That spoke to me to San Francisco to bomb the hills and go chromatic hues of crème, navy, hunter because that’s someone who is constantly to Embarcadero.” green and gray that reflected the fog and pushing forward. We can’t just rely on a So instead of paying attention to damp concrete of his hometown. Continu- routine. My product has the ability to work compound fractions or social studies, ing his sneaker obsession, he also traveled to in various situations, whether that’s a pro- Elliott was sitting and Portland and worked with the Nike ID team fessional or casual setting.” John Elliott + Co. drawing Nike classic to createNEW his own version of the LeBron 12s YORK —Frederick Marfil THE WORD SINCERITY COMES ber elegance based on minimal tailoring. body conscious and they want to look out quite frequently in conversations Vukmirovic, who had also served as cre- good and healthy. The same attention with Milan Vukmirovic. ative director of Jil Sander and Trussardi, to fit is what drove the de- Seated on a sofa at the Hotel developed a cohesive collection based on signer to create 10 different in Milan, the designer, who in January un- a limited number of men’s wear staples, Ports 1961 white shirts—Ports 1961’s veiled his first men’s collection for Ports such as duffle coats, bombers, signature pieces—in a cap- 1961, has the serene, confident attitude of with a military feel, comfortable sule collection meant to be always avail- someone who knows exactly what he is pants and knitwear, presented in a classic able in the company’s stores. Season after doing, where he wants to go and what to monochromatic version, or in more fash- season, the same shirt styles will also be expect in the future. ionable variations, including sophisticated presented in a special variation—for ex- “I’m doing this job in a very sincere colorblocking and a Pop-style star pattern. ample, washed for fall 2015. way,” he says, referring to the fact that one Everything was infused with the same The importance of merchandising of the reasons he agreed to take on this relaxed, cool attitude, and injected with specific products, which can be offered project is that he can focus only on what skateboarding-inspired urban references, in more-traditional or trendy versions, is he likes and what represents his aesthetic. which have helped Vukmirovic become a something that Vukmirovic said he learned “Salem [Cibani, Ports 1961 chief executive street-style celebrity across blogs and social during his experience as a buyer for Paris’ officer] approached me, and said, ‘I want networks. To wit, the designer has 42,700 Milan Vukmirovic Colette and The Webster in Miami. your image, I want the things you like,’ Instagram followers. “If you offer too much, buyers can get and this is what convinced me. If some- “This collection is not meant to be su- According to Vukmirovic, this also re- confused. You have to guide buyers,” he one doesn’t like my look, he cannot like per creative or super classic, it must be pho- flects men’s increased desire to look good says, adding, “I’m much calmer now, there my collection.” togenic,” says the designer, highlighting the and feel comfortable in their clothes at is a moment when you start learning from For his first Ports effort, Miami-based importance for a fashion brand to be mar- the same time. your mistakes. When you are young, you Vukmirovic, who is also the publisher and ketable on social media. “Today people who “This collection is made for normal have so much energy and it’s fine because it editor in chief of men’s magazine Fashion don’t think about this [pointing at his iPhone men, with a normal fit, and not just for allows you to do everything you want, but For Men, as well as a photographer, shook 6 Plus] are crazy because it’s like they live in superskinny 18-year-old models,” he says, then you understand other things: how fash- up the image of the men’s line, which another world. The truth is that people buy- adding that with the flourishing of social ion works, how clients think, you just know used MILANto be associated with a severe, so- ing luxury also wear streetwear.” networks, people have become more more about everything.” —A.T. M5 SHOWROOM _ 375 WEST BROADWAY 5TH FLOOR NEW YORK, NY 10012 TEL 212-334-4744 [email protected]

42246 FLOWING CAMO REFLEX MAT HOODED IN REFLEX MAT, AN OPAQUE REFLECTIVE FABRIC WITH A COATING MADE BY THOUSANDS OF GLASS MICROSPHERES, PRINTED WITH AN EXCLUSIVE ‘FLOWING’ VERTICAL CAMOUFLAGE MOTIF. THE GARMENT REFLECTS LIGHT IN THE PRINT FREE AREAS, ENHANCING THEREFORE THE GRAPHIC DESIGN. THE COATING OF THE FABRIC MAKES IT WATER AND WIND RESISTANT. THE DETACHABLE , WITH FRONT FLAP, INSERTS INTO A V SHAPED PLACKET. BOMBER JACKET COLLAR UNDERNEATH. ZIP-FASTENING DIAGONAL POCKETS. ELASTIC BAND AT CUFFS. ZIP FASTENING.

WWW.STONEISLAND.COM valid. It seems a lot is currently driven by streetwear and to have a longer time frame, then the content has to be said: “The answer really is wait and see.you If are going show up. actually will editors and retailers rate men’s week in New York, the question is whether September are strictly for show. cycle for the men’s industry, meaning the men’sSeptember dates come some six weeks after the buying shows in the men’s runway shows in London, Milan and Paris,aof problemthe in February, since it is onlyen’s a in fewFebruary weeksand September. after While the timing is less complained that their shows get overshadowed by wom- forum is not in dispute. For years, men’s designers have Agenda and MRket are all slated to start on itsJuly original dates20. July of 19 to 21, while Liberty, Capsule, to align with New York Fashion Week: summer.Men’s, revertedThe Project to show, which had theoriginallyof trade shows planned that draw retailers to New York every going to land on this.” cations, but admitted,“we don’t know where is and Malcolm Carfrae, global headcommuni- of CFDA has been in discussion with vice chairman David a year at his Madison Avenue showroom. Kolb said the ren has taken to showing his collection Lau- list. off calendarfrom the participation absent noticeably ren—is twice ecutivethe CFDA. officer of ing hammered out,according ex- toSteven Kolb, chief indifferentwill participate ways inNew York isstillbe- year. next York senting his more-moderate Star USA collection in New to show his main collection in Italy, but is considering pre- ready to jump ship from Paris. John Varvatos stilltion on intendsthe catwalk in Milan, while Thom Browne is not , for instance, still intends to show its collec- form. But not all of the designers will theinitiative, insome hold willtakepart early championof runway shows. Timo Weiland and Kent & Curwen. ,dia & Sons,an Robert Geller, Duckie Brown, Patrik Ervell, lic School, Billy Reid, Todd Snyder, Michael Bastian, Ova- Calvin Klein Collection, , Rag & Bone, Pub- nation runway of shows, presentations and special events. vide additional support. The event will include a combi- presenting sponsor. DreamWorks andShinolawillpro- Amazon Fashion, East Dane and MyHabit—will be the light Clarkson Sq in SoHo. Amazon and its fashion sites— fashion. The first edition will be held July 13 to 16 at will launchSky- a stand-alone showcase for American men’s FashionCouncil Americaof Designers this of summer augural New York Fashion Week: Men’s. IF YOU HOLD IT, WILL THEY COME? Perhaps the biggest American name—Ralph Lau- name—Ralph American biggest the Perhaps showswhichstage ones and will designers Which Designers who have committed to participate include the discussion, negotiationand twoAfter years of That’s the burning question for organizers the of in- Ed Burstell, managing director Libertyof in London, Now that the decision has been made to hold a sepa- The fact that men’s wear needs its own independent Adding another wrinkle to the whole issue is the timing CollectionS : : Page 20 THE!CITY!WILL!HOLD!ITS !FIRST! MEN’S!FASHION!WEEK!IN!JULY. New York, New York New York, New the big-name designers to participate and he’shope- and participate to designers big-name the for Barneys New York, agreed that it would be ideal for heavy hitters to give it credibility.” ly important for emerging designers—but we need the is still on our minds.” energy from Europe to lose too much sizzle while men’smen’s market. The timing is better—you don’t want the much in Europe in June. It’s just so seen they’vegood already press— foreign to getting about have a dedicated men’s wear for Saks Fifth Avenue, said: “I don’t think it’s tend to be on holiday during this period.” “British international support. Only fair to return the gesture.” beenasaresult successandthathas, of inpart, a great approached. London Collections: Men has proved to be tures. Andit’s always interesting toseehow thingsare ven- new such support to important very it’s think I but it’s another commitment in an already hectic calendar, flagship collection as well as Black Fleece. participates in New York Fashion Week by presenting preparedits to show our spring collection.” Brooks Brothers locked in our presentation format for July but we will be ported by international media and retailers. We have deserves itsown Wenot platform. hopethatitwillbesup- it “an exciting moment for American men’s wear, and it calendar, I expect to see New York become the same.” fashion the of part integral an become way LC:M has as to see what other new talent will be showing.and support these brands,In course, and, we’re of the excitedsame John Elliott and Public School, and feel it showis rightduring to Newattend York, such as Rochambeau,have Pyer recently Moss, picked up a number of “Yes,new U.S.we plan to attend the Newbrands York who shows in July. We about. Hopefully that will develop.” there really aren’t any ‘discoveries’ we don’t already know Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president men’s of “especial- be will shows men’s the believes Jennings Eric Jennings, vicepresidentdirector andfashion of Dylan Jones, editor British of of Chambers Tony Andrea Dorigo, president Brooks of Brothers, called Darren Skey at Harvey Nichols is planning to be there. GQ won’t be attending, as most of our editors oureditors won’t beattending,asmostof Wallpaper GQ , weighed in: “Sure, “Sure, in: weighed , , has a different take: foreign visitors, it’s an additional, costly trip.” It’s a grand gesture for men.” But, he acknowledged,platform. “forThis will create a simpler, less-cluttered venue.NewYork Fashion Week crowdedveryand a dense is es all their hard work and helps them make a statement. out there. I’m excited for the young designers. It galvaniz- is that the industry is growing and there is a lottalent of trade oriented, but it will trickle down. What it speaks emphasizeto and communicate the men’s business. This is keep a foot on both shores.” will continue, but it’s a business issue, too. Maybe they’ll have already inEuropeandthat established aplatform be different next time,” he said. the “Some designers of way won’tadvance. it planned in doesn’t that It mean they’llitful in bethe a future.part of “Most shows are be ablecre- to compete to on a more global basis in going the future.” up. But we’rewe’re going to do a good that job, and we knowmediately. we’ll think Weto know we have to buildenough megamen’sitate ahuge,international week fashion im- from the ground naïve not We’re lective an important our industry.talent segment of of Men’s provides “an opportunity to demonstrate the col- more creative,” added.New Kolb York Fashion Week: and deserve their own platform. is. But American men’s designers are equally as creative in Europe. “We’re not trying to be London, Milan or Par- designers the same level exposureof and stature as those York, Kolb said, is intended to give American men’s wear Queen eventually jumping on board. Mc- Alexander and Burberry as such brands English shows have momentumevery gained season,withkey years ago. The first edition was in summer 2012 and the lections: Menhashadsinceitlaunchedmore thantwo ibly excited about, and that we’ve seen a real response to.” School, Tim Coppens and Orley are names we’re incred- increas- an ingly become important have part ourof business designers York —the New likes Publicof velopment. men’s wear calendar—soIthinkit’s areally positive de- the with showsearlier,line place in take to fall to and makesmoreidea. “Itcertainly sensefor theNew York the of proponent a is company London-based the for whether it will attend, Damien Paul, head men’sof wear ate critical mass to draw people from abroad?” brands in New York to get people to fly here? Can you cre- “The question is though, are there enough men’s wear be supporting showing during that time frame,” he said. Bone, said his brand will participate in some way. “We’ll ing some international editors.” host- on plan we do But this. for pay we will how or who intention,” he said. “It is too soon in help theto bolster planningthe global attendance figures. “That to is our know BETWEEN BETWEEN THE LINES Kolb said there are plans to provide some financial NewYorkthe said He eventto “important be will American men’ v r o r e g n o r t s n e e b r eve n s a h r a e w ’s n e m n a c i r e m “A The creation of a separate men’s fashion week in New Kolb hopes to replicate the success that London Col- decided yet not has Matchesfashion.com While & Rag Wainwright,Marcus of director managing

E. PALMIERI PALMIERI E. ! JEAN ! BY —With Contributions by Samantha Conti Samantha by Contributions —With

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MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE | VICTORINOX.COM CollectionS BOTTEGA#VENETA JOHN#VARVATOS DSQUARED& DAVID#HART LACOSTE LANVIN : : Page 22 BAJA#EAST hair will surely find plenty inspirational images. of so trend, anyone to to opting grow be out expected their a temporary and long textured hairstyles with a messy finish. This hairstyle is not medium mostly included season’slooks this scene, music rock the potential to gain popularity once again. the has look this predictable, bit a Although look. overlydramatic an for volume more slightly given was hair shine, high with style slicked-back extreme An men’s runwaycollections. fall the at look A LONGTIME FAVORITE OFSTYLISTS LONG Long hair is no longer a woman’s prerogative. Taking its cue from vs. SLICK , slickhairwas thego-to —Luis Campuzano GIEVES#&HAWKES BETWEEN BETWEEN THE LINES ERMENEGILDO#ZEGNACOUTURE CASELYHAYFORD $ J( W(#ANDERSON MAHARISHI CERRUTI CANALI

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EVENT SPONSORS CollectionS : : Page 24 BETWEEN THE LINES

NAME"!Piero Mendez AGENCY" Re:Quest AGE" 19 NATIONALITY" Canary Islands INSTAGRAM" @piero_ mendez: 3,313 followers 2 SHOWS!WALKED" 32 NAME"!Mats Van Snippenberg AGENCY" Fusion AGE" 18 NATIONALITY" INSTAGRAM"!@matsvsnip: 2,825 followers 3 SHOWS!WALKED" 31 NAME"! Rigvava AGENCY" Elite Paris AGE" 16 NATIONALITY" Austria INSTAGRAM" # @sergerigvava: 3,712 followers 1 4 SHOWS!WALKED" 29 NAME" Dominik Hahn *** AGENCY" Tomorrow Is THE NEW GREATS Another Day AGE" 20 By Luis Campuzano NATIONALITY" Germany INSTAGRAM" @dom_hahn: 3,854 followers SHOWS!WALKED" 28 A NEW CROP of models come to 5 the fore during the fall shows. NAME"!Jeroen Smits Being ridiculously good looking AGENCY" VNY AGE" 20 is part of it, but being chosen for the NATIONALITY" Netherlands catwalk requires more than just a INSTAGRAM" pretty face. These boys are forced @jeroensmits94: to be on their feet nearly all day 2,755 followers SHOWS!WALKED" 27 and night for a month—a feat they gladly embrace in their hopes of 6 becoming the next Sean O’Pry. In NAME"!Luca Stascheit AGENCY" VNY addition to stamina, they also need AGE" 21 to be unfazed by the glamour of the NATIONALITY" Germany fashion business. Oh, and they have INSTAGRAM" @lucastascheit1: to be under age 25. 1,206 followers “Besides the ‘fresh’ factor, they are SHOWS!WALKED" 26 not affected by the business and are 7 eager to be discovered,” said casting NAME"!Felix Gesnouin director John Tan of JTC Casting. AGENCY" VNY “They look at the business with AGE" 23 bewilderment. Although I do wish this NATIONALITY" France INSTAGRAM" would change because the longevity @felixgesnouin: of a male model’s career is quite short- 1,411 followers lived due to this, and the business SHOWS!WALKED" 25 disillusions them fairly quickly.” NAME" Gryphon O’Shea 8 Here, M Collections’ top-10 list of AGENCY" New York Models NAME"!Jackson Hale models on the verge of stardom. AGE" 22 AGENCY" Soul Artist NATIONALITY" U.S. Management INSTAGRAM" AGE" 19 @gryphonoshea: NATIONALITY" England 10,700 followers INSTAGRAM" @jackson_hale: SHOWS!WALKED" 37 9 41 followers NAME"!Ben Allen AGENCY" Select AGE" 18 NATIONALITY" England INSTAGRAM" @benjaminsallen: 6,561 followers 10 SHOWS!WALKED" 24 LUCKY!BLUE!PHOTO!BY!KUBA!DABROWSKI LUCK ! YOUNG O’Shea Gryphon With Q&A What goes on in your mind backstage? the of major fashion houses this season. MC: Blue: Lucky M Collections: include James Dean and Elvis Presley. It’s no wonder, then, that his style icons faced Leonardo DiCaprio or River Phoenix. a baby- of are reminiscent that features has bleached blonde hair and androgynous 16-year-old model stands 6 feet, 3 inches and followers to meet him after his shows. The the power socialof media by tweeting his to do it,” said Lucky Blue, who embraces to meet me and it seemed like a good way sharing his experiences with the world. and Twitter—and who isn’t shy about nearly one million followers on Instagram male model from Los Angeles who has commotion is all because one of young tidal wave outside the Sacai show. The it’s hard not to take notice the of teen between shows during Paris Fashion Week, DESPITE ALL THE PEACOCKING from childhood? getting stoked about the look I am wearing. hanging out with the other models and “I wanted to give them an opportunity What is your first fashion memory

I’m mostly relaxed backstage You’ve walked for some — Frederick Marfil

me and my three sisters set up as a band. had just signed with Next LA. He wanted for always a topic at my house. also have three older sisters, so fashion was windowpane plaid suit with slim pants. I I was 12 and I picked out an eggplant others to do the same. opportunities and hopefully inspiring I will still be chasing my dreams and modeling and hopefully making films. music with my sisters in The Atomics, L.B.: MC: L.B.: L.B.: MC: L.B.: MC: with Hedi Slimane? during fashion week? amazing, too. amazing, was fans the all meeting course but of it I was interesting, all think at school. at in books are looking kids most things in shows? the I to got see walking and clothes to wear amazing getting and time New and Paris York Milan, for first the Vogue Hommes Vogue Where do you see yourself at 21? Anything interesting happen to you Tell us how you wound up working I will be traveling the world playing It was the first photo shoot I ever did My mom took me to get a suit when You to London, going besides mean walked the most shows this season? this shows most the walked when you found out that you had G.O.: MC: GRYPHON O’SHEA: M Collections: from the shows? stupid on the dance floor all night. there and we just got completely this year since so many friends were Jeremy Scott’s party was a lot fun of have our fun after the shows usually… with my friends at shows, ha, ha. We one. number pretty shocking to see that I ended up up there with a lot themof at all, and do well, so it was an honor to be right I’m always stoked to see my friends lot great of guys that work a ton and surprised, to be honest. There are a Do you have any fun memories I just dance around and get silly silly get and around dance just I Japan. I was about 12 and How did you react I was pretty G.O.: MC: G.O.: MC: walking during fashion weeks? someone starting out as a model and to walk? under your skin, but you need to much it can get inside your head and know how hard it can be and how good seasons and bad seasons, so I easy to take it personally. I’ve had week can be really tough and it’s too huge honor. incredible group musiciansof was a runway with the presence suchof an thing in life to me, and sharing the unreal. Music is the most beautiful in the energy thatof orchestra was have some grounding and something What advice would you give Which was your favorite show Don’t get too lost in it. Fashion Dior without a doubt. Walking H&M and Tommy Hilfiger. AD!CAMPAIGNS" SHOWS!WALKED " INSTAGRAM!FOLLOWERS" NATIONALITY" " AGE " AGENCY NAME:

16 Lucky Blue Smith

Next Models

U.S.

Calvin Klein, Klein, Calvin

15

720,000

G.O.: MC: G.O.: MC: G.O.: MC: G.O.: MC: underwear, every single day! And don’t forget to change your important to you besides modeling. with? clothing? of never leaving. You can’t make me! Man coat. a ticket to Coachella. turning dreams into music. What place would you love to visit? to love you would place What What are you currently obsessed What is your favorite piece discovered? you were How Modular synthesizers and —but I’m there now and My monster fur Burning In the queue to buy my brother : : page 25 Pablo Iglesias Iglesias Pablo European politics. general Spain’sof new casual wave is a leader in the that is sweeping Podemos party The The secretary- SHIRT" sport shirt. as a daytime used than an evening nothing worse CollectionS Turrión Turrión There’s politics—really? Seventies era. But in channeling the hippie the runway when is a big trend on PONYTAIL" C Politics as Casual as Politics Long hair : : Page 26 PAUL SMITH TAKES A TRIP A TAKES SMITH PAUL By Samantha Conti "! PANTS height. tailored to his be pressed and chinos should green five-pocket SOCIOECONOMIC!MOODS. WHICH!ALSO!REFLECTS!THEIR!COUNTRIES’ AUSTERE OF!BUSINESS!ATTIRE!WITH!THEIR!DRESSED#DOWN!APPROACH" !!RULES THE !!!BREAKING !ARE GUARD NEW !!EUROPE’S OF SOME The light *** "! JACKET with his . seamlessly blend casual enough to to his body and is perfectly tailored constructed lasagna. for Mamma’s out Watch STOMACH"! THE SEVENTIES WAS A SIGNIFICANT DECADE lines and the pleated-top trousers, the slightly looser the confidence [this season] to do the wider shoulder the more mature designers have. And so, that necessarily seenorexperiencedgave orwitnessedwhat us we all forget is that the younger generations haven’t that. We did that in the Seventies,’”so brilliant.’AndIwas saying, ‘No, no, we’vesaid done Smith. “What andgoinglike,‘Wow,all thesebiggershapes thisis city Nottingham,of England. hands on Smith’s archive, which is stored inhis youngerhis designers—mennative in their 20s—got their however, of mind, some until of top wasn’t era The 1976. in friend’sa apartment Parisaffair—at creet dis- show—a first his staged who Smith, Paul Sir for The softly credibility. without losing approachable makes him look wash of the jeans the distressed narrow cut with JEANS"! “They were looking at the old clothes, putting on The straight whole industry has been been has industry whole ed “The in shapes. bigger nowinterest-men—are young other ers—and standable why his design- as well with the knitwear.” fit, and add more pattern Smith saidit’s under- B+ Matteo Renzi without losing style or grace. right balance in the his finds Italy casual of minister prime The approach BETWEEN BETWEEN THE LINES It’s great. It’s really exciting.” What you’re seeing is new, reenergized Paul Smith. “I’m notgoinganywhere, notretiring oranything. doubt, he’s as big a force as ever within the company.fabrics and working in parallel. In case there was any en’s teams are now sitting next to each other, ganizedsharing the design studio so that the men’s and wom- ing and promoting younger guns, he’s recently reor- bigger studio—and brand—refresh. In addition to hir- ing more closely with, young a designers as part of and geometric shapes on knits and trousers. overcoats and scarves, and the Bauhaus-inspired onlong too, checks asinthebig,blurred-edge faded boxes look from were big and bold—a refined spin on Huggy Bear’s had the wider, built-up shoulders of the era, while furs terned knits and wovens. colored andpat- boxier silhouettesandaloadof season’s standouts—was thevery opposite,with the of fall—one for outing refined whose Smith, legged trousers, and the very short jackets,” added tight- skinny, skinny, skinny, really these wearing Smith said he’s increasingly listening to, and work- His double-breasted jackets had peak lapels, coats Starsky & Hutch casual pedigree. still maintain his fitting style would unflattering. A better jeans are extremely heavy-whiskered mom JEANS"! . Patterns played a big role, C+ casual movement. the of leaders the of over a century is one minister Greeceof in The youngest prime Tsipras Alexis The high-waist, SHIRT"! button-downs. wearing designer patterns when Avoid recognizable “one of the people.” message as being contradicts his Burberry shirt up sleeve of the The rolled-

IGLESIAS!PHOTO!BY!PABLO!BLAZQUEZ!DOMINGUEZ/GETTY!IMAGES; RENZI!BY!F RANCO!ORIGLIA/GETTY!IMAGES; TSIPRAS!BY!TIMOTHY!FADEK/CORBIS BETWEEN THE LINES : : page 27

MEN’S EDITORS TOOK A SIDE JAUNT TO GENEVA after the Milan shows for the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie fair, where the way of the watch world is “less flash and more grace.” “A return to elegance,” is the way Philippe Léopold- Metzger, the long-standing chief executive officer of Piaget, described it. That’s not to say loud, flashy *** are completely out: such products still exist, even if they’re WATCH AND WONDER less conspicuous than in bling- By Haig Simonian bling’s glory days. Instead, they’ve given way to more restrained styl- ing, greater emphasis on classic de- sign, smaller cases and, if anything, more emphasis than ever on technical prowess and craftsmanship. Such themes are predominant in the profusion of so-called “skeleton” watches—timepieces stripped down to their bare minimum, where “unnecessary” metal is cut away to reveal the highly architectural—some say almost sculptural—inner workings that test the limits of watchmakers’ skill. Among the most prominent is Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Automatic Skeleton. Long focused on this category, the brand went to new lengths, eliminating the tourbillon— one of the most complex and technically challenging fea- tures of a prestige watch, meaning this newcomer can sell at a more affordable $56,800. In a similar vein, Parmigiani offers its elegant new Tonda 1950 range of skeleton timepieces. But perhaps the most riveting of all the skeletons is Cartier’s appropriately named . Richemont’s powerhouse watch and jewelry brand is no newcomer to such Cartier’s Crash bare-bones products, but Crash’s funkily distorted shape is the skeleton watch has horological equivalent of a characteristically creased Frank Gehry a distorted shape. building. As if one skeleton were not enough, the brand also offers a skeletonized version of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon timepiece launched in 2010. Thinness is also making strides this year. Piaget’s Altiplano Chronograph sets new standards for a manufacturer already firmly established as an ultrathin men’s watch specialist. All of the 240 pieces of the new watch squeeze into an astonishingly thin 4.65 mm movement and 8.24 mm case. Others have caught the slimmed-down but featured-up bug. Vacheron Constantin’s Harmony Ultra Thin Grande Complication Chronograph—the 459-part flagship of the new Harmony collection helps mark the brand’s 260th an- niversary—offers even more bells and whistles than the Alti- plano. Albeit that comes at the breathtaking price of $369,000 apiece for the 10-watch limited edition. Not to be outdone, Audemars Piguet unveiled its Royal Oak Acoustic Research Concept RD1, another feature-packed product notable for a new chiming mechanism that ceo François-Henry Bennah- mias called “the biggest step forward in 25 years” in terms of sound. Hyperbole? Maybe, but the watch follows eight years of research and has three patents pending. Blurring the distinctions between men’s and women’s watches is also gaining momentum. At 39 mm wide, the Ton- da 1950 already fits the unisex bill. Meanwhile, at just 37 mm, Among the and with the choice of plain or diamond-studded bezels, IWC’s new offerings in Portofino Midsize Automatic range, launched by Richemont’s the world of luxury sporty brand in late 2014, represented a further step forward watches, from le": by a predominantly masculine brand to extend its appeal to Roger Dubuis, women. Sales in Asia—where the new watches were first in- Parmigiani troduced—have so far been split almost evenly between men and IWC. and women buyers. HAMANI LAZIZ ! ! BY ! PHOTO I HEAR A SYMPHONY nitely be 2015,” he stressed. Bausch or Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker. “It should defi- a modern dancetaking of performance piece by Pina onabicyclethe Palais Garnier orskateboard andpar- She always said a little effort makes a big difference.” designer. “It’s something I got from my grandmother: time and making the effort to dress up,” said the Belgian irreverence, such as baseball . rial look for fall 2015—albeit with helpings modern of athletic influences and embrace a more polished, sarto- and . Itwas a classy way towave goodbye to Van Assche’s handsome cast strode out in dinner suits Landsc Apes”by French as Koudlam electronicartist hipster string orches- section unfurledthe a stirring for versionand relayedof “The instructions through their earpieces. This placement tor. In this linear instance, a Thomas Roussel wiredon his players tra—usually hidden and fanned out around insisted the conduc- Assche Van orchestra,” he explained. ing white sneakers. “I didn’t want it to be thisdown old,the center his of runwaystuffy in tuxedos—and gleam- theParis ScoringOrchestra of lining up32members Kris Van Assche gave formalwear a contemporary spin, and the footwear was a clear giveaway. THIS WAS NOT YOUR TYPICAL SYMPHONY For his latest Dior Homme show, artistic director director artistic show, Homme Dior latest his For Van Assche saw today’s young operagoer arriving at “I’m a fan tradition.of I really like people taking the Collaborating with music meister Michel Gaubert, By Miles Socha CollectionS *** : : Page 28 — Above: One One Above: moments of moments of the most most of the the show. revealing revealing hiding anything.’” — speak about my childhood, my fears, my shame. It’ssaying, just‘You me thinkand youmy know bracelets. me, butyou if reallyI’m don’t,not open this magazinepretty boy,where I he’s cute, he’s French, he’s mixed race. Getting naked for me was a way of “I had heard so many controversial things about me these past years: oh he’s just a outshined by his Balmain jacket, big golden buttons and flashy embroideries. interesting development.” an really that’s think I and woman, waythe as same the in used be can men that Têtu could be seen as equality.a sign of how to communicate, not just faces that will last for one season.” “That’s why I love having on the catwalk that have girls something to say and know people,”lamentedBalmain’s director Olivier artistic Rousteing. a bodyfor alotof the fashion business, are far from ready to cross the gender divide. He said posing naked was a expressingway his of personality, which at times gets French of cover the on suit birthday his in posed famously who Rousteing, But with androgyny emerging as a dominant trend on the runways, male nudity “Many usetheirmodelsasobjectswithoutapersonality, designers they’re just The reactions to Owens’ free-willy moment suggested that most people, even in a criteria.” wider range of magazine last magazine a month, “Putting reasoned: man naked on the catwalk shows that most people would never think to question done if in a women’s wear show.” ens show cleverly plays on this anxiety by exposing a bit maleof skin…in a way subject the ‘gaze’—whereasof men were supposed to be evaluated based on men were operating under the assumption that women are the appropriate centuries, is still a anxiety source for of a huge men. number The of Rick Ow- expressly eroticized, and thus scrutinized, in the way that women’s were for Colman noted that for many years, “white, heterosexual Anglo-American has been studying the subject, said: “The idea that men's bodies might be Moment Free Willy Rick Owens’ and director of the Center for the Study of Fashion, Law and Society, who When Rick Owens asked his male models to let it all hang out in January, he triggered a wave jokes of and comments, even a mini doseshock of in an unshockable fashion world. strained strained by conventional clothing, as Owens suggests? Charles Colman, acting assistant professor at NYU LawSchool of were only a few of the reactions reported vent”on social (“willy media, inwhere the thewind” in English) and “Teub-Gate” (“Dick-Gate”) erally, they anethos,” Owens illustrate explained, addingthathe stunt earned its quickly own hashtag: #dickowens. wanted “to present a utopian world of grace, free of fear and shame. grace and freedom,” the designerpark every mused.day, and “Asthey are a vision sensuality—yes, of but aalso of participant in one of imagery? Is it only appropriate for a Michael Fassbender movie? I our most progressive aesthetic arenas, am I not allowed to use this in fact had some trailblazing precedent as Saint Laurent himself model’s malememberrightthere inthespotlight.That house thought this might be an interesting question.” posed nude in 1971 forcampaign. In a Pour Homme fragrance to shoot a 2002 campaign for the house’s M7 with fragrance the Tom Sundsbø Sølve Yves Ford ordered Laurent, Saint of rector more recent years, doffed all for his own fragrance campaign for Bang in 2011. “Owens goes Full Monty,” “What rhymes with Rick?” “Le zizi au Paulina Szmydke Paulina “We allknow thatrunway aren’t looks meanttobetakenlit- “I pass classical marble statues nudeof and draped figures in the And one few have dared to pose. In his capacity as artistic di- Is it true thenthatwe shameandfear con- Is ittrue live inaworld of BETWEEN BETWEEN THE LINES

PHOTOS!BY!GIOVANNI!GIANNONI BETWEEN THE LINES : : page 29

TALKING HEADS’ BOB DYLAN DAVID BYRNE John Varvatos’ The oversize silhouettes at fascination with the Billy Reid such as full trench legendary rocker filled coats, roomy utility pants the runway with belted and a boxy tailored suit had a car coats and retro retro David Byrne flair from suede utility jackets his Stop Making Sense concert that seemed ready to documentary era. step off the tour bus. DECKARD OF BLADE RUNNER Harrison Ford could have easily found his KEANU REEVES Blade Runner wardrobe The leading rebels of in the J.Lindeberg Nineties movies such lineup, which featured as Keanu Reeves and an array of tailored Mickey Rourke served clothing references as the catalyst for the mixed with military outerwear-centric Coach influences and collection with rich elongated belted shearlings, varsity jackets trenches. and retro bombers. icons THE ROYAL TENENBAUMS The Wes Anderson cult classic was evident OF"STYLE in Bally’s nerdy SOME!UNEXPECTED!FACES" SUCH!AS!WINSTON COLLECTION; COLLECTION; EVERETT ! ! ESY OFEVERETTTESY ! ! COLLECTION;! collection, especially CHURCHILL!AND!JEFF!KOONS" JOINED!THE in a beige suit worn with a beanie. RANKS!OF!STYLE!SETTERS!THIS!SEASON.

THE CLASH’S LONDON CALLING Bubblegum pink JEFF KOONS blazers, neon green Jeff Koons’ candy suspenders and teal wrapper sculptures Chesterfields were were the basis for the some of the early- jewel-toned palette Eighties influences of Katie Eary’s fun in the Thomas Pink

BROS./COURT ! WARNER OF ! COURTESY RUNNER” “BLADE ! IMAGES; GETTY ! collection.

COUR ! BRANDO IMAGES; ! MILLS/GETTY H. ! ERNEST ! BY CHURCHILL ! IMAGES; collection.

MARLON BRANDO WINSTON An array of cropped CHURCHILL leather jackets The unlikely style paired with micro- of a young Winston button-down Churchill served shirts at the Gilded as inspiration for a Age presentation sleek embodied the in the elegant Ralph rugged sexiness of Lauren Purple in Label eveningwear On the Waterfront. lineup. NEWSPAPERS/ EXPRESS ! ! BY ! DYLAN MAZUR/WIREIMAGE; KEVIN ! ! BY ! PHOTO REEVES ! BYRNE ! BY ! CHRIS ! WALTER/WIREIMAGE; KOONS ! BY ! ANDREW! H. WALKER/GETTY! COLLECTION ! EVERETT ! VISTA/COURTESY ! BUENA OF ! COURTESY TENNENBAUMS” ! ROYAL ! “THE Behind the curtain at DRIES VAN NOTEN.

M CollectionS : : page 30 Photos By Alfredo Piola

SHOWALEX BADTIA’S SHOIW DMIARIES: FALEL 2015

From full-fron!al nudity at Rick Owens to a polo party at Ralph Lauren, my five globe-trotting weeks covering fashion around the world.

Day 1—London Last stop of the day is the Woolmark awards at make a French exit and run back to the hotel for another As if in a sequel to A Passage to India, I arrive at JFK carrying the beautiful Matches Fashion’s town house where the chamomile tea. Starting to feel like Tootsie… too many suitcases on my way to London Fashion Week. Public School guys are celebrating their win. On the And without much time to think whether I’m ready for this, way out I get a text … some old English friends want to go Day 3—London I’m seated at the Topman show. out. I have three weeks of shows ahead of me, so I choose Things are getting serious… So my fashion tour starts… to have a chamomile tea and a salt bath back at the hotel. We start with JW Anderson. I get seated next to the The show is a blend of early Seventies references and Far #boringbutwise… ceo, who is extremely charming and wearing a scent that East psychedelia. Cropped denim bell-bottoms are not my smells like a mixture of suntan lotion and cash. The show delight but I will always have a soft spot for the Main Street Day 2—London is full of Seventies references. A nutmeg-colored coat with retailer, after all, it was my teenage fashion mecca… It was so worth it to wake up early to hit the gym and do a jewel-like buttons and the Mongolian knitted scarves with Without missing a beat, I am headed to the London Eye face mask before running to the Lou Dalton collection. dramatic fringes catch my eye… to shoot the first #15secondswithalexbadia video of the series The lineup shows great restraint and good sartorial James Long has a hand for embellishments and for @wwd Instagram. Am I ready for my close-up? Not really, knowledge… deconstruction, his use of wide collars and patch pockets in but iconic backgrounds and monuments trend well, FYI… Next stop: the Maharishi show, where it becomes shearling gives another nod to the Seventies… Next up is the MAN show, where Rory Parnell apparent that Japanese silhouettes and samurai references I get to Moschino early enough to have a brief chat Mooney presents a collection full of ecclesiastical and are all the hype this season. Thank God I am wearing a with Jeremy Scott—the last time I saw him was at Art Goth motifs while Nicomede Talavera channels workwear kimono under my bomber jacket today. I feel like Basel in Miami dancing with Miley Cyrus. I want his life. Japanese-inspired shapes such as kimono and judo jackets. I belong… He mentions the collection is inspired by lumberjack London continues to be a great source of fresh talent... Inside the Astrid Andersen universe it is perfectly ravers. I definitely want to be him. The show is great, Seated next to me at the Coach show is CFDA’s chief normal to mix crushed velvet, Chantilly and fur in with fake snow coming down from the ceiling and executive officer, Steven Kolb; we talk about July’s shades from shocking pink to raspberry. Although this look rapper Wiz Khalifa making the front row smell like a inaugural New York Fashion Week: Men’s and how to make is not suitable for any business formal occasions, I enjoy the marijuana plantation… it great. I am excited… show. More samurai references… Sarah Burton shows one more time that she is Stuart Vevers’ runway debut collection centered One of the highlights of the week is Christopher a master of sartorial craftsmanship with a powerful around the and its many interpretations, Raeburn at 6 p.m. I get to the show at 5:56 p.m. and all the McQueen effort centered around reinvented heritage such as car coats, hooded and chic aviator jackets, my seats are taken. These Brits run their shows with military military uniforms with strict tailoring precision. personal favorite… precision, and 5:56 p.m. is the new late. It was worth #puretalent… I need another pair of sneakers like a hole in the head fighting with a Turkish retailer for my seat since the sailing- The surprise of the day comes from the hand of John but I can’t control my urges and I stop at Size? and get my inspired collection is full of novelty items… Ray. His Dunhill show is a master class in how the hands on a great pair of white-and-silver Nike X Pedro The last show of the day is Sibling. I rush backstage bohemian upper class used to dress. The show climaxes Lourenço collaboration… to do a #15secondswithalexbadia and the scene resembles with a pajama section, some of them paired with shaved Wearing my new shoes, I go backstage to see a bubble gum Katy Perry video: models with pink mink coats… Christopher Shannon. I compliment him on hair, wearing pink clothes, some shirtless and holding his healthy looks. Well, there is nothing better than a big pink bears. Then I remember why I do this. Day 4 — London heartbreak diet, he says. I wish I could gossip about ex- #Ilovefashion… After a bit of “bloody tailback”—as my driver says—I get to lovers (my favorite pastime) but I concentrate on the To cap off the day, I hit the Esquire magazine party. E.Tautz, where the handsome Patrick Grant helps solidify inspiration for his reinvention of traditional sporty and I adore British fashion girls. They are chic, smart, the return-to-classicism trend. The round-shouldered overcoats streetwear classics. I love his lack of a filter... superblonde and they party like rock stars. But not me, I worn with high-waisted pants feel very Thirties and relevant…proportions, monochromatic color palettes Cozy beanies at AMI. and new takes on military uniforms have proven influential among his peers. Backstage is all the rage, with Tommy Ton documenting every move… fascinates me. He is allowing social media for the first time but that does not include pictures of him, as Natalie Massenet discovers after trying to snap one pic. The show is full of late- Sixties references and the shearlings are the highlight. Btw, Tom Ford doesn’t age. #deathbecomesher… Christopher Bailey presents an embellished hippie collection for Burberry, featuring tiny mirrors, fringe and pops of print. While it rains glittered confetti during the finale, I have only one thing on my mind: the return of Galliano. Artisanal Couture is next… On my way out, I run into glam British TV presenter Poppy Jamie; we spend five minutes trying to agree about who looks cuter. “You do!!!” “No, no!! You do!!” Thanks, doll, but it is really you… The front row at Margiela is full of familiar faces such as Alber Elbaz, Manolo Blahnik and Christopher Bailey. They hold the show for Kate Moss, who arrives 15 minutes late (guess the 5:56 rule doesn’t apply to her). The traffic was terrible, she tells me with a wink after the show. All the hype is worth it as Galliano delivers a bold and promising collection. I will remember this moment, and Milan is next… Day 1—Milan I get to Milan where Dsquared2 is turning 20 years old and the twins are showing the night before the real madness stars. I get seated next to Giovanni Bianco. I try to get information about ’s next album as he is collaborating with her on the creative look. But he is tight-lipped. The show is a bit of a letdown, but Mary J. Blige performs the U2 song “One,” and I feel like hugging someone; I don’t think Bianco would have any of this, so I control myself… The night is not over, as I have accepted an invitation to dinner at the house of designer Goga. She is definitely one of a kind and an incredible host. When I leave, she is in the middle of discussing an idea to possibly hire the Tim Burton writers for a murder mystery birthday party weekend she is planning. Who said Milan is boring?? #gomilan… Day 2—Milan I wake up early, make it to the small hotel gym and even have time to do a recovery face mask by Dermalogica and to use—for the first time ever—the depressing Touch of Gray on my beard. #milestone We officially start 2015… The people like to dirty your shoes. As always, their runway is full of dark soil, however this time it complements the conservative palette of dark blue, black and soft green used in a lineup of chunky knits and elongated coats… Zegna’s runway is also covered in dirt; my new white sneakers will never survive this. The spectacular set, full of impressive trees and mountains of sand with a backdrop of birdcalls, serves as the perfect background for Stefano Pilati’s handsome outing full of roomy coats and volume cargos. I could have done without the velvet suits… At National, Mr. Capasa continues with his rock ’n’ roll story. The slim suits and cropped jackets sometimes embellished with grommets have the right amount of retro, but a feathered coat and glitter-studded biker raises some eyebrows…

M CollectionS : : page 32 Double vision at . Boglioli is cool. The presentation is set in Milan’s chicest interior design studio: the Dimore apartment. The slightly Sixties-inspired collection full of cozy knits in teal and camel seem to be designed only to complement the space. Alessandra Turra, my partner in crime, and I decide that we need to move in immediately… Before Pompilio, we hit a little coffee shop for a cappuccino as lunch. It’s where we finally meet one of our icons: GQ Japan editor in chief Masafumi Suzuki. He is so gentle and polite and wears tight Thom Browne suits with like no one else. #fashionwillywonka. #love… Next is Milan Vukmirovic’s debut as creative director at Ports 1961. He is designing for the fashion insider. The lineup is full of great staples and I even see a V-neck that doesn’t make me feel disgusted. On the way out, I take a bag of amazing gummy colas (won’t be added to my food diary, but we never seem to eat, so it’s OK)… Rodolfo Paglialung’s debut collection for Jil Sander is a solid effort full of Seventies Mary J. Blige brings the references, youthful tailoring and high-waisted house down at DSQUARED2. pants. There is something very vintage Robert Redford about one of the trench looks… Backstage with John Varvatos, he speaks about Bob Dylan as an icon and New York in the late Sixties as an inspiration. The set resembles Central Park, and the runway is carpeted with dry leaves that work well with the dusty autumnal colors of the collection. I am very into the Tom Petty … At this point I need the energetic push that is backstage, with half-dressed models, Donatella, the crazy Italian press and the sea of dressers. The show, however, is very restrained and full of glamorous and luxe classics. I miss the tanned exposed muscles, though… Then, the GQ party. Asola restaurant is packed with designers. Brendan Mullane shares that he has found his true home at Brioni; Ennio Capasa talks of his deep connection with Marina Abramovic, and Michael Bastian makes remarks about moving on in life. Everything seems so deep, where is the shallow public relations girl when you need her…

Hydrating at GIORGIO . Day 3—Milan On the way to , I ask my Milan driver Francesco to play obscure remixes of “West Furry End Girls.” It is never a good sign when I am moments in need of so early in the game. at KTZ. #emotionallyneedy… Tomas Maier has a thing for the elegant, disheveled artist. A worn-in corduroy peacoat in light pink over a thin yellow polo and oversize gray clearly shows his sophisticated color sense and his understanding of laid-back luxury. I want it all… I nearly missed No. 21 after filming the 100th episode of #15secondswithalexbadia. Can you believe it?? It feels like yesterday!!!! The collection is a total hit because of the outerwear offering and the song “Safety Dance” playing on a loop as the soundtrack. I obviously pretend not to know it. I wasn’t around in the Eighties... Outside Salvatore Ferragamo I realize that the look I am wearing today is gaining traction, for some reason the street- style photographers love the belted blazer. #takemypicplease…

page 33 : : M CollectionS Backstage at . I head inside to find another runway full of dirt, and it’s official—dirt on the runways is a trend. Massimiliano Giornetti shows a rich collection of printed statement coats, chunky oversize scarfs and weather-beaten shearlings, a big trend of the season… Backstage at Calvin Klein I speak to Charlie Hunnam: he has fairy-tale Prince Charming hair, so I can’t pay attention to anything he says. The show continues to build on Calvin’s strong, masculine DNA with sharp suits and double-breasted boxy topcoats. He also shows vinyl pants that bring back interesting memories... is a total surprise, turning out to be one of the best shows of the week so far. As always, Ale Turra is loving the sexy bohemian models… Miuccia is going back to minimalism this season with a slightly claustrophobic set of rooms wallpapered with black marble and low metallic ceilings. The black that ruled the house during the Nineties is at the core of the collection. Not my favorite Prada show but always thought-provoking… I arrive very late to the Calvin dinner after a late close of the paper. The view of Milan from la Torre Diamante where the dinner is being hosted is breathtaking... Day 4—Milan I wake up to find nastier comments than usual on my Instagram videos. One of them makes remarks about my excessive use of Botox. The truth is, I haven’t done Botox for a while, but lasers are a different story. I love a laser! Thankfully, bullies feed my fire… We beg in at Emporio Armani, where the designer delivers a collection full of easygoing outerwear and ribbed blazers… Then we rush to the Marc Jacobs presentation. The Seventies-inspired lineup is centered around New York icons such as James Dean and Quentin Crisp. I tell the team that the Sting song “An Englishman in New York,” is about Quentin Crisp, but no one seems to care. There is a nutmeg corduroy suit that is pretty major… is the talk of the town and Alessandro Michele wastes no time in establishing a new aesthetic. The new Gucci man is a younger, endless romantic of ambiguous sexuality. It sounds like half of my friends. The soundtrack to Tom Ford’s A Single Man is playing throughout the show. I love hidden messages… Outside Etro it becomes obvious to me that I need to all my outfits as the street photographers are into my -belted coat. #egodrivenlife… The sleek parade at TIGER OF SWEDEN. Kean Etro draws inspiration from a selection of artists to embellish his designs with flower prints and strong paisleys. The effort works best when used in more muted versions… All in the details at At Fendi we find many of the season’s LOUIS trends such as corduroy, shearlings, statement VUITTON. scarves and, of course, social media stars: the monster-faced Bag Bugs accessories… The last show of the day is Brioni, staged at Castello Sforzesco. Brendan Mullane concentrates on sleek, tailored pieces such as belted cashmere overcoats and double- breasted camel suits. It is very true to Brioni’s chic heritage…

M CollectionS : : page 34 Unzipped at DSQUARED2. I finish the night at the WSJ dinner, where they insist on serving risotto and pasta before any protein. I ask for a salad but I get bread sticks. Lying to my food journal is a full-time job… Day 5—Milan I hit the hotel gym, where two ladies in black Lycra SoulCycle uniforms are not kidding around. I am a bit intimidated, so I don’t dance... I make it to Dirk Bikkembergs—totally unnecessary, but it doesn’t disappoint. At this point some distraction is needed, and two rows of shirtless models flanking each side of the runway does the trick. I can’t remember a single look... Then it’s Giorgio Armani, where the maestro presents a laid-back collection with Far East influences. The softly constructed jackets with generous trousers feel very Armani and relevant… After the show I try to set Alessandra Turra up with one of the street-style photographers (he is totally hot) but it becomes pretty clear very fast that I need to mind my own business... Then it’s the last show of Milan Fashion Week: Cavalli. At this point, my head is in Paris but I remind myself that I need to stay in the now. The Cavalli show is more subdued than normal, with the rocker leather pants and slick dinner jackets… Day 1—Paris I take the 7 a.m. Air France flight to Paris. The plane is full of male models and the flight attendant asks me if I am their keeper. I am exhausted so I nod, put my on and wonder if I need to use some Touch of Gray again as soon as I land… Lemaire starts things in Paris. He has dropped the Christophe from his namesake label, but the new identity only reinforces his approach toward a timeless elegance. The opening look, featuring a deep green trenchcoat paired with cropped pants and high ankle boots captures the Parisian mood… At Va l e n t i n o all eyes are on actor Luke Evans looking dapper in the front row. Before the show starts I walk up to say hello, he gives me a hug and we speak briefly. I return to my seat and I say to the stranger seated next to me…“We are good friends!!!” #sadgroupie… Next stop is . The collection disappoints. There are some good pieces, such as rich velvet blazers and slouchy cashmere , but the highlights are few and far between. Too many people and the dim lights at the presentation only make things worse. A retailer compares the experience to bad sex; I’m not sure about that, but my twisted mind wanders… The long drive to the show and standing for 45 minutes at a warehouse making small talk with my team is totally worth it. The Belgian designer presents a collection with elongated topcoats, droopy knit pants and sleeveless trenches. The whole effort has a Blade Runner feeling, and who Final hair touches John Giorno can resist that… at NEIL BARRETT. art slogan at JUUN.J. Day 2—Paris It is a sunny day in Paris and everything feels possible. We head to Phillip Lim for a show heavy on mountaineering references, oversize silhouettes and handsome outerwear pieces... What happens next at Rick Owens I don’t see coming. The first looks are business as usual: leather outerwear, knitted and . But then things rapidly change, a heavy deconstructed

page 35 : : M CollectionS exposes the models’ privates, I wonder Snack time if that is a wardrobe malfunction, at GIVENCHY. but then it becomes clear … it’s one full-frontal nudity look after the next. Owens said backstage that the show was going to be “primal,” but I never expected this. It becomes the main topic of conversation of the season but it is a great collection… Balmain feels more elegant than in seasons past, incorporating new volumes in pants and sharp military coats. I make plans to go for dinner at Belle Epoque with Olivier Rousteing; anybody who is anyone goes there during fashion week, he says, and of course it seems to include us… The heavy prints that pay tribute to British artist Christopher Nemeth that appeared in most of the statement coats at LV help solidify the outerwear trend and become the defining theme of the collection… I really want to be best friends with Yohji Yamamoto. He is so talented and petite. Backstage, his p.r. helps us cut the line to speak to him and a French journalist walks out screaming. Yamamoto calmly explains all the craftsmanship involved in creating his nomadic look, with jackets spliced together from contrasting materials and mismatched sweaters... Dries Van Noten is a beautiful exercise in Eastern influences and ethnic embellishments. The last look featuring a topcoat dripping in silver motifs from China’s Miao people is breathtaking. I make mental notes during the show for my personal order… After we ship the paper, I join my friends downstairs at Maxim’s for a bit of dancing. The tiny space is packed with fashionistas and models—my entire Mykonos crowd is there and it feels like a reunion. The set from Disco Smack is sick and the energy is great. This could be an all-night affair but I have a 9:30 a.m. show, so I head to the hotel—but not before dancing with a Norwegian model wearing a totally shear dress. I love European discotheques… Day 3—Paris I miss the gym again. On the way to Junya Watanabe, Gerard, my driver, plays Lionel Richie’s “Hello.” I ask him if he is going through a deep, intense emotional time in his life, no answer... Watanabe is a solid offering of alternative formalwear with dapper early-Seventies references from music groups like The Temptations... At Maison I run into Alexis, Galliano’s boyfriend. I congratulate him on Galliano’s return and then we go down memory lane to the time we met in London in the Nineties … #oldfriends. Margiela

M CollectionS : : page 36 Behind the is another gender-bending Seventies at GUCCI. revival with a hint of disco fever… Juun.J is cool. The Korean designer shows a parade of extremely oversize military uniforms and utilitarian coats with elongated sleeves and ultragenerous collars. It works… Loewe always makes me homesick. Jonathan Anderson continues to infuse feminine codes with creative men’s wear staples. The look book shot in the Acueducto de Segovia of skinny models interacting with the locals is priceless… At Kris Van Assche I am seated next to a cute British retailer. We speak about being a single lady in men’s wear. And of course, like all the conversations lately, we end up talking about Tinder. She turns hers on, and we play a good round with some promising swipes to the right. But let me tell you, Tinder in Paris is not an easy game... The red glitter runway at Givenchy is impressive. Riccardo Tisci seems to be going back to his roots with a dressy and tailored collection. But I couldn’t have done without the few streetwear references still present... Berluti is the last show of the day. Alessandro Sartori shows a younger lineup, with unconstructed suit separates and oversize turtlenecks (another trend of the season). His control over rich color combinations sets him apart… After the show, I stay for dinner. I am seated next to some “very French” Berluti executive. After the second glass of wine, we exchange stories about being in long-term relationships and how to keep things exciting. He says that he is lucky because French women are unpredictable and wild. What to say?? So without missing a beat, I ask for the name of his mistress. I don’t think he finds me that funny and maybe stereotyping François Mitterrand is not the right move tonight... Day 4—Paris I hit the gym, although at this point it is hard, this #foreveryoung lifestyle is a bit exhausting… For Kenzo we drive to the outskirts of Paris to the new Philharmonie. The lineup is full of social-media friendly prints, from graphic shapes to strong tie- dyes; I am not impressed… With no time to waste, we head to Sacai. When I get there, I see a massive number of teenage girls. Korean pop star comes to mind, but soon I find out they’re all here to see the model Lucky Blue. The kid has thousands of followers and is Instagramming his locations. Mr. Blue will go far... Acne continues with its playful attitude. The collection is a mix of English culture. Part hooligan, part countryside gentleman with hints of gender bending... I get to the Dior preview early and see an impressive 32-piece string orchestra rehearsing before the show.

page 37 : : M CollectionS Backstage, Kris Van Assche talks about dressing young hipsters heading to the opera on a skateboard. The result is an ultrachic lineup of youthful eveningwear, some paired with baseball caps and sneakers. The show is stunning, one of the best of the season… At Hermès, the sight of the Eiffel Tower from my seat makes me feel emotionally vulnerable. I probably just miss my cat. Véronique Nichanian presents a collection full of ultraluxe athletic pieces in the most extravagant materials. I am sure that someone somewhere needs a pair of mink jogging pants and a croc sweatshirt… The streets of Paris are the key inspiration for Ami. For Alexandre Mattiussi, that means cropped pants, heavy boots, military parkas and hooded sweatshirts… Dinner is at Belle Epoque and it’s true, everyone is here. At one table is Marcelo Burlon with the Italians, then it’s the Hercules magazine guys with the Spanish, and the Indie music group of the moment, La Femme, is holding court at the back. It feels very much like the high school cafeteria from Mean Girls. #youcantsitwithus… Day 5—Paris I wake up with a bit of Syndrome. I can’t believe this is nearly over... On the way to Lanvin, George Michael’s “Father Figure” comes on. I say how much I love the song and Gerard asks me if I am going through a deep, intense emotional time in my life? I don’t answer but I am happy. This marks his first joke after eight years of driving me… The strong show includes top seasonal trends such as volume pants and oversize statement coats. Backstage, I ask Alber Elbaz about the collection. Before answering, he says: “Oh, Mr. Alex, with perfect smile and perfect hair.” I am speechless… At Paul Smith, all the American press starts to talk about a snowstorm hitting New York tomorrow and flight cancellations. I secretly want to stay in Paris forever but I pretend to worry. Mr. Smith has his hand on the fashion pulse with a lineup of graphic topcoats and relaxed tailoring… Next, Thom Browne takes us to a funeral with a procession of models all dressed in layered black looks and sinister theatrics… We get to Saint Laurent, where Hedi Slimane continues to channel cool youth in his lineup of extremely thin models wearing ultraskinny leather pants, high-heeled boots and some sparkly fishnet tops… After the finale, the lights are back on and in a second, the European fashion tour is over. I say my goodbyes and go back to the office. After the paper is finished, I head to the Hotel Costes to meet some of my childhood friends who are in town. I walk in, I see them seated by the DJ booth and I instantly feel like a teenager again. Not a single recovery mask or Touch of Gray (with terrible packaging), food diaries or endless workouts can make you feel that way. I take off my and camel

High energy : : page 38 M CollectionS at MOSCHINO. coat with a shearling collar and I walk David Hart, a star in the making, toward the table… draws inspiration from spaghetti Westerns of the late Sixties for his Home Sweet Home colorful lineup of sharp suits and Unfortunately my flight is the only one that eveningwear. A pair of woolly doesn’t get canceled, so I kiss Paris goodbye seems more appropriate for a Saturday and land in a snowy ready night at a fetishist leather bar than a to hug my cat and see more fashion… cowboy movie… Michael Kors warms things up… Ralph Lauren brings more than Having Mr. Kors walk you through 60 models together for his impressive the collection is like being in an episode presentation. Only in his universe can an of America’s Next Top Model—pure evening bodysuit inspired by Winston indulgence. His collection stays close to Churchill, a camel and black equestrian his glamorous globetrotting men’s DNA ensemble and a colorful tech athletic look with hybrid outerwear and cashmere seamlessly coexist. Spanish model River trousers setting the tone... Viiperi keeps on whistling every time I

Primary colored finale at JIL SANDER.

Text u re d s c a r ve s at SALVATORE FERRAGAMO.

Model walk at MSGM.

Rag & Bone designers Marcus walk by making it hard to keep a straight Wa i n w r i g h t and David Neville face in front of Mr. Lauren and his team… don’t believe in the power of traditional The Duckie Brown boys are no men’s shows so instead they create a strangers to gender bending, one of the fashion and dance music video featuring major stories of the season, but their a surprisingly sexy Mikhail Baryshnikov effort hits the trend in an elegant and and Lil Buck, both modeling the directional way… collection. Unstructured street tailoring Next is the Adidas–Kanye West and layered soft knits are some of the show on the West Side Highway. I get highlights of the dance-ready lineup. I there to find an endless line of editors want to dance with somebody... waiting outside. I get talking to some lovely blond but when my ears start New York—Day 1 turning purple I realize we have been On a freezing Wednesday, the official waiting for more than 45 minutes on the New York Fashion Week kicks off. I windy highway. My charming coworker start with DKNY. The presentation Jean Palmieri keeps on losing it, marries ath-leisure references in adding entertaining drama. The wait technical fabrics with youthful is almost worth it just to see the three tailoring and performance outerwear. queens of bootyliciousness—Beyoncé, Nothing new… and —pass

page 39 : : M CollectionS in front of me to get to their seats, after that I forget everything else… The last show of the day is Todd Snyder, who presents a collection heavy on rich outerwear pieces that range from camel coats to shearling and bombers… I rush out of Lincoln Center to the dinner that WWD is hosting with Russell Westbrook to celebrate fashion week and the NBA All-Star game. Mr. Russell is nice, not too annoyingly tall, and loves my burgundy blazer… New York—Day 2 I start the day with John Elliott. The presence in the front row of Victor Cruz, J.R. Smith and Kanye West (well, he is everywhere) signals there is something going on. And Elliott delivers a strong lineup full of monochromatic athletic and layered looks paired with amazing NikeiD sneakers. He had me at Nike… #onetowatch Orley, with its Fifties-inspired presentation, is next. The lineup is full of heritage knitwear pieces, zigzag polos and oversize cardigans. All comes from the idea of shopping your grandfather’s closet. The Orley designers are cute and weird… New York—Day 3 Saturday starts with Lacoste. The collection channels the Royal Tenenbaums. I love a tracksuit with a fur coat. In my mind it is very me… Visvim marries American and Japanese references. A hybrid kimono bomber jacket takes my breath away. The designer Hiroki Nakamura is too terribly shy to be in one of my #15second episodes—not that American, after all… The weather is out of control with below- freezing temperatures, and Uber keeps on celebrating with its precious surcharges… So with a 2x1 surcharge I get to Robert Geller where I get another of the many sightings of Mr. Kanye West and his Mrs. in the front row. Geller presents a Twenties-inspired lineup that includes rounded-shoulder topcoats, high- waisted pants and even retro suspenders… Billy Reid is the last show of the day and we are frozen. One of the keys to a successful show is also making things bearable, so having waiters with hot bourbon—typical in the South, says Alabama native Reid backstage—really helps. The collection is a cozy blend of textured fabrics and oversize silhouettes… It is Saturday night so originally I had planned to go to Ladyfag’s Holy Mountain party for the unofficial Alexander Wang party but instead I surcharge my way home, planning to sleep in the microwave. #toocoldtobecool… New York—Day 4 Equipped with Heattech head to toe, I start the day at Public School. The line is inspired by the early- Before the BERLUTI Nineties club scene in New York, which show at Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

M CollectionS : : page 40 Peaceful moments after SACAI’s show at a church on Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris. translates into boxy outerwear and baggy mélange knit trousers. The trip down memory lane is perfect for me and today’s cool kids… Shayne Oliver turns a bit more commercial at his HBA New York show, with elongated graphic knits, puffer black coats and plaid blazer. But fur coats and black floor-length keep HBA on the androgyny … At Tim Coppens, I realize my evil eye bracelet has broken. I freak out and read my horoscope which tells me to stay vigilant and not to let my issues get in the way of my highest good. Fascinating, but I make a note to look for an evil eye replacement bracelet when I get home. Coppens adds a new dimension to his athletic DNA by presenting a lineup full of tailoring pieces and evening influences… Even without my evil eye, I am able to find a taxi to go home and start packing for my trip to Vegas to cover trade shows. I do a Chanel hydrating mask, have a glass of wine and watch the vintage Almodóvar’s Law of Desire while I put looks together for Sin City. I cannot wait to get out of this cold … New York—Day 5 I start the last day with Patrick Ervell. The show has an intergalactic set with retro-future neon lights and planters that work as the perfect backdrop for his early-Nineties sci-fi soldier lineup. Drop shoulders, stiff bombers, mock necks and extra-baggy pants are part of the . For the finale, models march out to the Visage song “Fade to Grey” and I feel emotionally connected to Mr. Ervell for the first time ever… Ovadia & Sons marks the end of the runway men’s season for me and I cannot believe it. If I wasn’t in a crazy time crunch to get to the airport after the show I would be more sentimental, try to engage in more small talk about the weather with other lovely industry peeps and even make pretend plans to get together for dinners soon. The Ovadia twins want to dress America, they tell me backstage, and their idea is a collection of belted cashmere coats, tricot sweatpants and elegant silk pajama shirts… I jump out of my seat and run down to the street, where a 1x2 surcharge (feeling blessed) Uber is waiting to take me to the airport. I get in the backseat, close my eyes for second, but then the Uber driver asks me where I am going. “I am going to Vegas, baby!!!!,” I say jokingly. How lucky you are, sir, he replies. I was going to tell him that I have been to Vegas a million times, that I am going for work, and the whole blah, blah, blah, poor me chant. But then I hear myself saying, “Yes, I know I am very lucky, thank you!” I make a mental note to be a tiny more grateful but still act extremely busy and a bit affected. But now, let’s get to Vegas. I am sick of wearing thermal long johns and I want to see more fashion…

page 41 : : M CollectionS A silk with its floppy buttoned seductively up the back. A shrunken military jacket with sleeves that end slightly past the elbow, revealing dainty wrists. These were elements of the fall men’s collection at Gucci, where new creative director Alessandro Michele became the latest designer to pro- pose overtly feminine clothes for men—his shown on a cast of wan, an- drogynous models who strolled out in fur-lined . A flurry of coed shows in Europe’s main capitals this men’s wear season further helped blur the gender boundaries, both sexes donning scoopneck coats at Raf Simons; funnel-neck pea jackets and printed cardigans at Giorgio Armani; austere black nylon uni- forms at Prada, and high-heeled boots and demonstrative outerwear at Saint Laurent—including a pink mink for him. Meanwhile, in Florence as guest editor of the Pitti Uomo show, Hood by Air’s Shayne Oliver lived up to his reputation for deviant, gender-bending extremes. His models wore crudely scrib- bled with eyebrows, obscuring their sex. The men wore high-heeled, square-toe platform clodhoppers and dresses slit to the crotch. The season raised a major question: Is fashion finally crossing over to some unisex utopia, or is androgyny nothing more than a flavor of the month designed to shift more clothes, bags and shoes until the next trend comes along? Designers and retailers are of several minds, with some citing a convergence of trends for both sexes and others shrugging off androg- yny as a tired idea and a nonissue. Still, most agree that the dalliance with more daring looks that was previously the domain of women underscores that it’s an exciting time for men’s fashion, with designers and consumers more willing to experiment than ever before. “I don’t think it’s necessary to switch too much for men’s and women’s because I think that men and women are not so different,” says Gucci’s Michele. “They are different, but in some way you can BY!MILES!SOCHA create a world that is for both. I love that a girl can try to be in the dress of a man, and that a man can try to choose something from the PUSHING"THE women’s wardrobe. It’s quite modern.” Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver, head of men’s design at Lan- vin, have been stretching the boundaries of men’s wear since 2006, when they began importing Elbaz’s sumptuous fabrics and couture draping into men’s wear. Among their propositions for fall 2007 were A!FLURRY!OF!ANDROGYNOUS!LOOKS!FLOODED!THE!RUNWAYS fuchsia or purple jogging suits and high-tops. IN!EUROPE!AND!NEW!YORK. “We got criticized for it, but they were bestsellers, and now those kind of items are quite normal,” Ossendrijver recalls. “I’m not saying BOUNDARIES men should dress like women, but sometimes men are so consid- ered with their masculinity. I wish we would have more real options than just the suit, shirt and sweatshirt. I like the idea of stretching these definitions.” According to Ossendrijver, the growing importance of women’s pre-collections is partly fueling the trend toward coed shows—and similar styling and fabrications in men’s and women’s collections given

Acne’s fall collection could be worn by men or women.

From left, fall styles from: Gucci, Todd Lynn, Baja East and Duckie Brown. the proximity of production cycles. This is particularly the case “The lines are blurring,” says Terry Betts, Selfridges’ men’s mer- for the fall season, when the men’s shows overlap with pre-fall chandising and buying director. “As a retailer, I feel really positive women’s wear and run smack into spring couture. that we’re providing a space of diversity in fashion.” Beyond that, Ossendrijver argues that men’s wear has changed In fact, a good percentage of shoppers in Selfridges’ men’s streetwear dramatically in recent years. section are women, and male consumers also comb women’s depart- “The way men look at fashion and consume fashion is radi- ments. “There’s definitely a freer way to shop,” Betts says. “There’s a cally different from what it was before. They’re no longer afraid fluidity. We see it also as the next stage of retail. That customer really to also enjoy fashion. It’s no longer just functional. Design has comes into the store with no rules about how to put things together.” become much more important, men also buy more intuitively,” 1600s Agender marks the first time the British retailer has featured he explains. “They really shop, and not, like before, just once a Louis XIV clothes in its windows without mannequins, to avoid a specific season. So the way they consume is becoming more like how pioneered the body shape. For its e-commerce site, all looks were photographed women consume fashion. There’s more equality in that sense.” androgyny on a male and a female model. trend with his Thom Browne, prone to showing men in skirts, dresses and white and “The idea of coed clothing has been a long time coming. You’re even lipstick, says he doesn’t think about his in the con- colored high- just going to see more of it if you flash forward,” says Jeffrey Kalin- text of androgyny. heeled shoes. sky, founder and president of Jeffrey, which has locations in Atlanta “I like to make people think,” he says, adding, “I think my cus- and New York City. “I just think it’s a sign of being more open- tomer appreciates how I make them think of things differently minded to possibilities. Men who work in fashion and men who and see things differently.” are into fashion, they’re not interested in the restrictions.” Indeed, his men’s and women’s collections for fall stemmed Kalinsky mentions Rick Owens, Givenchy, Comme des Gar- from the same inspiration—death—and had many of the same ele- çons and J.W. Anderson among labels that stretch the boundaries, ments, with both sexes donning mourning-style garb and even car- s with J.W. designer Jonathan Anderson a leading proponent. “Jona- rying the same bags, in one case a humorous whale-shaped style. 1840 than sees that you don’t have to draw such a fine line in fashion The Three In his estimation, men are more informed and knowledgeable Musketeers between what a man may wear and a woman may want.” about clothes than they’ve been in the past. popularized Kalinsky says he intends to hang Raf Simons’ men’s collec- Edwardian To be sure, men in skirts is old , with , tion in his women’s department, and among must-haves for fall he first stirring that pot back in 1984, unveiling looks inspired by the peplum jackets lists Givenchy’s skirts, which designer Riccardo Tisci styled over worn by French waiters. and ruffles pants. “Shown on very masculine models, it was very sexy,” he says. everywhere. “I think people are just more confident in their own individual “Whoever buys them will sell all of them.” styles,” he says. “Men are definitely more confident in experimenting.” 1950s Virginie Sartres, men’s head stylist at French department store Browne explains that he approaches his collections for both gen- Liberace’s Le Bon Marché, reckons androgyny, like other fashion trends, is ders in the same way. “I think that tailoring looks great for both men outlandish use cyclical, with a new wave coming on stream now. of sequins, fur 1970s and women and that is where both collections stem from,” he says. trim and was “We had a very big androgyny trend in the Nineties with Calvin Berlin-based Kostas Murkudis is of a similar mind. make him one the poster boy Klein, who had men and women dress in a pair of jeans and a white “I don’t believe in unisex,” says the designer, who unveiled a new of the pillars of of the glam- T-shirt wearing the same perfume. Then Dior Homme, headed androgyny. rock era with “inter-gender” collection during men’s fashion week in Paris, offering his Ziggy by Hedi Slimane, did suits for women. But now it’s different. It’s versions of leather vests, full-legged pants and blousons for both sexes. Stardust more of an exchange between men and women at the moment. “I believe in the freedom to decide the way we want to present our- alter ego. It’s like a game,” Sartres says. “Women’s wear has progressed a selves and the way we want to communicate. It does not mean that we 1980s lot thanks to men’s wear.” are aiming to look all the same—nor that we want to deny our bodies.” Boy George’s Yet she’s not sure men are becoming more feminized. gender bending Murkudis notes that women have been borrowing from the persona kicked “When men pick something from a woman’s wardrobe, boys, and vice versa, since Ancient Greece, and Asian cultures the door for they are reinterpreting it according to their own codes. A today offer a wider spectrum of garments for men. androgyny pair of quickly turns sporty, not feminine. We wide open. “I like the idea of wearing a or a djellaba during summer- saw skirts on men at Dries Van Noten, but they were time,” he admits. “I also love to wear Japanese kimonos and other worn on top of pants. Men are keeping their masculin- Japanese garments during my daily work schedule.” ity. In fact, they feel very much at with it,” she says. In his estimation, beautiful garments assume a different as- Still, men “need a story to buy into a brand; they pect and character when worn by a man or a woman. “The body don’t buy three pairs of shoes to feel better, they want fit is creating a new sensation—very inspiring,” he says, noting the to know where the product was made, they go for the “same sensation happens due to the use of fabrics and colors.” savoir faire, and they like technical things like watches According to Ossendrijver, “there’s still a long way to go; and jewelry. They have no problem wearing a bracelet, women have much more choice. Though moving and going for- which could be considered feminine, but it needs to be ward, men’s fashion is still restrictive. Especially when you look clean and sober, without any embellishments.” at what men really wear in everyday life and not just the catwalk. Tisci recalls that he raised eyebrows with a men’s show Men are definitely more open to experiment; the way they dress and campaign in 2010 that featured transsexual Lea T, a is not just practical anymore, but more and more a way to com- 1990s Brazilian model with delicate features who was previously municate their identity or who they want to be. That’s what I love Kurt Cobain’s known as Leo. But he was happy to make the politically grunge take on charged statement and remains puzzled by people who about fashion; it gives you the possibility to be who you want to androgyny took be,” he says. “It’s not even about masculinity. It was about raw the world by draw indelible lines between genders. and powerful pieces that were abrupt styling and techniques of surprise. “My woman, she’s so confident about her sensuality looking a certain way, and also what social meaning pieces have and sexuality that she can play with a man’s wardrobe, and in general. Why the product is talking to you.” my man is so confident about his sexual- Retailers agree young fashion devotees have no qualms about ity that he can play with a woman’s ward- shopping across men’s and women’s departments. robe,” he says. “Men today are not scared To wit: This month, Selfridges in London introduced a to wear things that could be seen as more 1,000-square-foot temporary space dubbed Agender, grouping feminine. It should be freedom of expression.” 45 labels including unisex ones Nicopanda, Rad Hourani, Faye ANDROGYNYTIMELINE —With contributions

ARCHIVES/ OCHS ! MICHAEL ! ! BY ! BOWIE AQUINO; JOHN ! ! BY ! BROWN DUCKIE ! BANICA; RODIN ! ! BY ! EAST ! BAJA MAESTRI; ! DAVIDE ! BY ! PHOTO ! GUCCI PRIOR/REDFERNS MIKE ! ! BY ! GEORGE ! BOY ROBERTS/REDFERNS; EBET ! ! BY ! LIBERACE MAYER/WIREIMAGE; JEFFREY ! ! BY ! COBAIN IMAGES; GETTY ! Toogood, VFiles and Bodymap. from Paulina Szmydke

page 43 : : M CollectionS ANDERSON’S COMFORT ZONE J.W. ANDERSON!DESIGNER!JONATHAN!ANDERSON!BELIEVES GENDER!BENDING!IS!A!CLICHE # BUT!THAT!DOESN’T!STOP!HIM!FROM!DOING!IT. BY SAMANTHA CONTI / PHOTOGRAPH BY KUBA DABROWSKI It was never Jonathan Anderson’s aim to be so closely bound “From the beginning, he wanted to put something out stagram and seeing whether people like certain things —and to androgyny—he never set out to be the designer who there that was him. He’s been evolving a specific point of what they don’t like. Instagram is a really good barometer, would unleash the unisex creature that’s now stalking men’s view—and he sticks to it. And his designs speak to culture and and one of the most powerful mediums out there,” says the catwalks worldwide. to counterculture,” said Humberto Leon, cocreative director designer, who works the network to build his brand, seasoning In fact, the designer of the London-based J.W. Ander- of Kenzo and cofounder of Opening Ceremony, which has his own feed with personal details, inspirations, observations, son collection and the creative director of Loewe doesn’t been carrying J.W. Anderson since the line launched in 2008. favorite album covers, backstage snaps and collection images. like the A-word at all. He believes what he’s doing with his Nelson Mui, men’s fashion director at Hudson’s Bay Co., Of late, there’s been a shot of a hot lemon drink—Ander- shrunken, body-baring knitwear, jewel-like sculptural em- called the J.W. Anderson fall collection, with its nipped waists, son was sick last week—and a quote from fellow Irishman bellishments and off-the-shoulder is much more flowing sailor collars and big, flower-shaped buttons on coats “a Samuel Beckett: “To find a form that accommodates the mess, nuanced—and provocative. knockout. It was very, very distinctive, androgynous with Sev- that is the task of the artist now,” to the cover of The Human “I never set out to work on the concept of androgyny. For enties ideas, but it defied categorization.” Defiance is what his League’s 1981 album “Dare” (Anderson has had his head stuck me, it was more about trying to find a wardrobe that would customers want, Anderson says. “We have a very loyal group of in the Eighties of late). fundamentally appeal to both men and women: Trying to find consumers who come back to us, and they’re part of a journey, His campaigns for Loewe have a similar feel, with a mix of the right shirt, the right jeans, the right trouser—but on differ- the collecting of things. If we go too simple, they don’t want vintage photos—Steven Meisel kissing an unnamed man—a ent landscapes. Trying to find a uniform, something we’ve been it. They want something that has an idea, and they want to be black-and-white shot that recalls Bryan Ferry in his Roxy mu- doing from Day One,” he says from the Loewe studio in Paris. challenged. Men in recent times have changed their perception sic days, and men and women, like twins, posed side-by-side, “I find androgyny quite a dated concept. I feel it’s kind of of how they dress, especially with social media, especially with product in hand. like a pun, and that it represents a period of time in fashion.” people taking pictures of themselves. People are so much more The visual messaging mirrors the man: Intense, cerebral, Who can blame him? Androgyny, as an aesthetic, comes aware of what they look like, what they wear, and how they are eloquent, utterly passionate about the creative process—and and goes with every generation in fashion, hair or makeup— perceived. Men have become more body-conscious.” savvy about commerce. Simon Whitehouse, chief executive and the word itself has become a cliché. “My vision is trying Damien Paul, head of men’s wear at Matchesfashion.com, officer of J.W. Anderson, says he understood “within 16 sec- to find this balance within the taboo of where people want which stocks the J.W. Anderson label, says the designer’s influ- onds of meeting” Anderson that the designer was not only things, what they’re comfortable with. Is this good on a man ence has been “everywhere in recent seasons,” and Anderson creative, but an entrepreneur as well. or not?” he asks, adding that his quest is to find how far he is gaining a strong following in Europe, the U.S. and Asia. “He Anderson’s signature label has an advanced contemporary can push those comfort levels and find newness. He also has such a clearly defined point of view, but at the same time, price point, and a young, street-style customer. He says J.W. designs his men’s mainline and women’s pre-collections at he’s incredibly canny about his collections: In the showroom, Anderson and Loewe are drawing a “very large” American the same time, allowing them to spark off each other, and is we always find appealing, commercial product that riffs on market online, a strong domestic one in the U.K., and has a always inspired by ambiguity. the ideas he presents on the catwalk. His audience is growing, big consumer base in Korea and Japan. “We’ve had headscarves, ribbed knit looks, ribbed trou- and his sales continue to increase every season. His pin-striped Inevitably, J.W. Anderson and Loewe also nourish each sers, lace boiler suits and high . You love it or you hate separates and landscape prints for spring have already begun other, with similar references and silhouettes and shapes. The it. I don’t want it to sit in a gray zone. I want my work to be to sell out in some sizes,” Paul says. Seventies thread in his recent signature collections, Anderson something that makes people think.” Unlike other designers who save the catwalk for their most says, derives partly from his work at Loewe. “It was the most There will be ample food for thought in Anderson’s future theatrical—or editorial—pieces, Anderson aims to produce important period for Loewe. There was a freedom that hap- collections. Right now, he admits, he’s going through a bit of every single look he sends out. “I don’t care if we make 10 or pened in that moment that was extremely important.” a cleanse. “I’m very into the idea of nothingness, the idea of 10,000, they have to be able to buy it. Catwalk is a small edit Anderson says he’s been time-traveling through the de- the nonclothing. Let’s see where that takes me.” of the collection, a very concise, energetic moment to sell cades—and not just the Seventies—as part of a creative exercise The journey so far has been fast—and intense. He people the idea,” he says. for both brands. “I’ve taken and learned what I needed from the launched J.W. Anderson in 2008, initially with an off-schedule Those seasonal catwalk narratives are fundamental, he Eighties and the Nineties to recalibrate my fashion history— show during London Fashion Week, and by 2013, he’d secured believes, and the future of luxury sales rests upon them. “The and to challenge perceptions. I love the idea of looking at the substantial minority investment from LVMH Möet Hennessy collections have to excite people. The idea of people shopping Eighties,” says Anderson, whose fall women’s collections were ; the star creative role at Loewe, and a stint with at an airport is never going to keep this industry going. You packed with references from the decade. “It was such a moment Donatella Versace designing a one-off capsule collection for want people to feel they are on a journey with you. You want in terms of men’s and women’s wear. So much wit.” Versus. Versace, who was dubious about hiring Anderson at people to walk into a store and say, ‘That is For all his conviction about clothing, Anderson draws a the start, later called him “a great talent, a genius.” the perfect wallet,’ or, ‘That is the perfect fine line between his customer and himself. The designer, In that short space of time, Anderson had also pumped out sweater, perfect for me right now in this with the sculpted features and the big, ex- two highly successful collections for , filled with stiff, moment.’ Trousers only have two legs, pressive eyes, is almost always dressed in structured denim pieces, and nabbed the awards for Emerging a has two arms—there is only jeans, a T-shirt or sweater, and sneakers. Talent and New Establishment in 2012 and 2013, respectively, so much you can do—so you have to “When I was younger, I used to wear at the British Fashion Awards. make it have a story.” fashion a lot,” he says. “I will wear Born in Northern Ireland in 1984, Anderson studied He’s not, however, designing in some [of my own] things, but I men’s wear at the London College of Fashion. He gradu- a theoretical bubble, and Anderson, find it very difficult. When you ated in 2005, and went on to work in visual merchandising who turned 30 in September, says start making clothing, when at Prada under Manuela Pavesi. He consulted for several he cares deeply that his custom- you start working on it day and brands before launching his signature label, and rapidly ers actually wear his clothes, night, you ultimately need to became part of a generation of hot London talent—in- in a variety of ways, over be blank. It’s very difficult to be cluding Simone Rocha, Christopher Kane, Nicholas Kirk- the years. “The consumer is the figure at the end of a catwalk wood, Roksanda Ilincic, Erdem Moralioglu and Jonathan first—no matter what. There wearing the show. How do you Saunders—not seen since the early Nineties when Alexan- is nothing that drives me progress out of it? How do you der McQueen, Hussein Chalayan and Philip Treacy were more than the excitement of reject it? The joy that I have is see- coming to the fore. consumers than going on In- ing people in it—how they change Unlike so many designers, Anderson has never wavered it, make it different, keep it fresh.” from his core vision: to explore the blurred lines between the From le" : Looks from And do it without caring a genders—and simultaneously serve up a polished ready-to- Loewe fall 2015 and J.W. hoot whether it’s androgynous

J.W. ANDERSON J.W. PHOTOS! RUNWAY BY! ! GIOVANNI! GIANNONI! wear collection. Anderson spring 2015 or not. and fall 2015. page 45 : : M CollectionS FIRST LOOK FALL 2015 LUIGI#BIANCHI# MANTOVA’S#WOOL%# CASHMERE#AND# SILK#BLAZER%# BERLUTI’S#COTTON# SWEATER#AND# HUNTSMAN’S# WOOL#PANTS(# BOTTEGA#VENETA# SCARF(

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M CollectionS : : page 48 LEFT*# EIDOS#NAPOLI’S#WOOL# JACKET%#PAUL#SMITH’S# WOOL#SWEATER#AND# BERLUTI’S#COTTON# PANTS(#DIOR#HOMME# SHOES(

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Models: Connor P. at Wilhelmina, Oli L. at Re:quest and Anatolli at Aim; Grooming by Marcelino at L’Atelier NYC using Moroccan Oil for hair & Chanel for makeup; Fashion Assistants: Luis Campuzano and Kayana Cordwell

tales Tisci page 1 : summer 2013 Tells RABID FOLLOWING. RABID A DEVELOPED HAS THE GIVENCHY DESIGNER %&&'" IN WEAR MEN’S OVER TAKING SINCE PHOTOGRAPH BY PAOLA PANSINI SOCHA MILES BY

PHOTO!CREDIT PHOTO!CREDIT store in a very special area Paris.of I livedproposed in tothe me Maraisthat forI overseea long time.the design Josephmyself as it’sDirand. a Ourvery new special chief executive officer Philippewhereas Fortunatoin the past I had worked with architects Jamie Fobert and personal. personal. Can you elaborate on that? WHEN GIVENCHY R.T.: MC: R.T.: MC: R.T.: MC: R.T.: MC: RICCARDO TISCI: M COLLECTIONS: spontaneous collection—and with more tailoring than usual. Milan. course,Of there was some voodoo in there, too. liked.It was I a fellvery in love with this Persian carpet I moresaw thanin anythingthis gallery else. in But this time it started from starta carpeteach I seasonreally differently. Most theof time, it’s allabout those a thingssilhouette I collect—collecting lot images—a emotions books, and being spiritual bones, things moreveryof than religious objects. This free.season was about I objects—rosaries, of lot a buy I and years a designer and follow my instincts. I’ve been a big collector for many or you can buy sweaters, sweatshirts, trainers. come to Givenchy and buy a very well-made tailored jacket or suit— Givenchy world. At the same time, the store says “couture.” Youjourney, can but when you look at it in total, you feel likeMollino, you’re for example.in a Each room in the boutique is a different Italian designers from the Sixties and Seventies. I’m collecting Carlo collector. I’m not working from vintage. Gianni Versace so I have a few pieces, even I’m if not veryreally well a clothingmy big icons in fashion are Helmut, Azzedine Alaïa and to buy when I was young for going to clubs and . People know androgyny juggernaut and his Instagram followers. collaboration, Tisci here reflects on his men’s wear career, the and white sneakers by Nike, with which he is plotting another his devotion to sweatshirts and the like. athletic trend with his pairing Bermudaof shorts over leggings and tops from his debut spring 2009 collection, which also sparked the year—notes that gender-bending items sell briskly, including the lace over pants. worn tailoring with edgy casual items, from gunshot sweatshirts to kilts carpet prints to dense, tar-like sequins—and deftly mixing muscular the of strongest in Paris, rich in surface decoration—from allover in Tisci’s fall collection, hailed by retailers and editors alike as one spanning from sleek suits to the coolest T-shirts and sneakers. Parisof conceived by Tisci and housing an array men’sof receivedproducts a high-profile showcase: a new flagship inrepresents the Marais the half of districtGivenchy business, and this month the commercial brandsuccess has followed. The designer says men’s wear now one men’sof wear’s most influential and original practitioners—andtinged with sexual provocation, the Italian designer quickly became it,” he recalls. “I had never done men’s wear, and I didn’t want to fail.” men’s wear back in 2008, the Italian designer initially hesitated. asked its buzzy couturier Riccardo Tisci heif would also take over

“I started out small because I wanted to see if I was capable of doing Wearing a striped rugby shirt with a hacked-off collar, jeans jeans collar, hacked-off a with shirt rugby striped a Wearing The designer—who marks his 10th anniversary at the house this Among its is furnishings a Persiangiant rug, a key leitmotif Setting a daring template informed bythe streetthe energy of and As if. It’s not only for a young generation. When people interview So it’s for a broad clientele. broad a for it’s So interiors? for taste personal your reflect store the Does Marais? the in flagship men’s new the about talk you Can Do you collect any fashion? I worked on the store with a team architectsof within Givenchy, I have a nice, small collection Helmutof Lang, things I used I’m obsessed with Giò Ponti, Carlo Scarpa—all the great You described your fall men’s show as very Usually, I go with my gut: I’m very emotional as management first themselves more. strong and bold, which I love. Also, men today are caretaking of the gym, you can find straight men putting together looks thattaboos arein the men’s world. When you go into straightfeminist, clubs andor tomen as well have less paranoias. Thereis great.are Women,now fewer they have more power, whichmore freedomI love. and lessI’m a of verygulf between women and men, which pressure to innovate there? nice, but boy.dodgy My showfirst was all black and white clothes, popularized at the time. I went thefor gym—differentpersonality morefrom thanthe skinny,beauty:a a lotbeautiful of much boysmore healthy-lookingHedi Slimane guys,and Cuba.rougher, I also guys went that to goNew to York,a confident London, man nextParis, to Milanher. andSo II caststarted street casting. I went to Brazil from Givenchy now—I’m much more . and what I really like. I don’t really buy designer clothes—apart route—or something more honest, simple and easy—more myself and done what Hubert de Givenchy might—the elegant French first see I if was capable doingof it. I could have gone two ways the trends. label, he will be faithful forever. Women’s wear goes he’s more more buyingIf faithful. something withand he believes in the dressing Jared Leto, including for the Oscars. Boscono seems to be for women’s? For example, you’ve been think it’s dynamism a in sign men’sof wear? sexuality. your and about having the confidence to wear lace because you’re secure in sportswear and streetwearthe collection? portions of between an elegant and look confident to a very sporty look. personality you have—so it’s for a man who knows how to 60scross who wear trainers and carry backpacks. It’s just the mood, the 40 and I still wear trainers. I know people who are in their 50sme they or always say young generation, but it’s not true because I’m R.T.: MC: R.T.: MC: R.T.: MC: R.T.: MC: R.T.: MC: R.T.: MC: oref? yourself then, of course, Antony then, Hegarty of is really inspiring for me. my design team. I really like the way Matthew Barney dresses, and I really like the way they put clothes together, including peopleso onstrong and so unique. But I’ve got a lot men of around me and never have enough time. That is always the problem with fashion. hours more in a day. Because you have to do so muchwood—so and faryou it’s coming so natural for me. I just wish I had 12 It is, because the of pressure that comes along with it but—touch You know, sometimes people say that being a designer isabout difficult. tailoring, so for me it’s very easy to do tailoring for men. culture. Plus, I worked for Antonio Berardi. In couture, it’s all at Central Saint Martins, and tailoring is pretty central to British and I’m much more like that. But don’t forget I studied in England discovered that it comes very naturally for me. Rottweiler print. Again, I had never done prints in my life, but I

I remember I really wanted to start very small. I wanted to

Men’s wear is very different from women’s wear. Men are Do you have any male muses, as Italian model Mariacarla You’ve pushed gender boundaries in men’s wear. Do you How did you formulate your approach to the men’s market? You’ve been very influential with your prints. Do you feel feel you Do prints. your with influential very been You’ve Do you feel byenergized men’s wear now, more sure of My woman is a very strong and powerful woman and I wanted wanted I and woman powerful and strong very a is woman My I think it’s fantastic. Over the last few years, there’s more and You dress very casually. Is it easier for you to design the It’s hard to find a Mariacarla in the men’s world because she’s It’s very easy for me to do street, because I wear streetwear One season I do, one season I don’t. It all started with the page 53

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M CollectionS How do you feel about it? it the all creative part of process? Paris as a couturier. Is that how Is that you as comfortable? a feel couturier. Paris R.T.: MC: M CollectionS R.T.: MC: R.T.: MC: R.T.: MC: R.T.: MC: I’ve learned after 10 years at Givenchy to wear a suit. clothes. course,Of sometimes I do have to wear a suit and church. I feel comfortable, and stronger, in my street-casual Also, I never really had the money to buy a jacket to go my to family, I would wear a sweater instead a of sweatshirt. Growing up, when I was going to church on Sunday with for me to wear suits because I never grew up like that. so does Nike. going to be the next big thing, and I really believe in it oneand is related to a specific country. I mean, this country’s do two big things with them: One is the worldwide and coming up. I can’t talk about it too much, but I’ll probably course, it’s even a lot more. There’s a really big new project person. There’s so much to do. and he’s very strong, has a vision and is a very respectful Givenchy, and there is so much to do. We have a new ceo Givenchy accessories and things like that. I feel at home at the brand. We can make Givenchy home, Givenchy books, be complete when I create a real lifestyle universe around is related to so many things, and my work here will only fashion. It’s related to music, to art, to the street. Givenchy love Givenchy, because it’s not only about clothes andfinancially: The brand needs a showcase for people who company’s doing well, and it’s not only doing well going on in my life. It’s about giving. like and I’m not scared to share my inspirations and what is not about me so much. Most the of time it’s about things I lucky to be there and I want to show it to the world. It’s travels. For example, I was recently in Brazil and I was inspired. be could who designer, or a guy from Australia or a girl from New York life. Maybe there’s a child in Yugoslavia dreaming to be to a be dreamer. I know what it’s like to have nothing in went to Puerto Rico to meet her family. Her character was so Latin, so Puerto Rican and I even Smalls: I fell in love with her intelligence, her personality.who was doing a lot cataloguesof and money jobs. Or Joan famous: Robert Evans, for example, but also , discovered a lot modelsof that went on to become very boys every season, in Paris, New York and Milan. I’vehimself. I’m seeing about 500 to 600 girls and 500 to 600 the of few old-style designers who chooses all the models got a very good sense style.of there’s Jay Z, who I really respect very much; I think he’ssensibility. I’m inspired by him. I think he’s a great guy.style. He decides what Andto wear and he’s got such a fashion and I think he’s amazing. He’sthe moment the of of king I post Givenchy-related and work stuff, but also my Jared we’ve dressed many times. We are very close What do you look for in models for your shows? your for models in for look you do What You haven’t ever changed your style after 10 years in sneakers? making still you’re And Givenchy seems to be gearing up for retail expansion. You share a lot yourof life and travels on Instagram. Is Yes, a polo and jeans. It’s always been very painful of Nike, with signed I’ve that now Especially love. I I’m very happy because this means that the It’s also to encourage people. I know what it’s like I’ve got two casting directors, but I’m probably one page 54 : : Fall 2011 Fall 2014 Spring Fall 2015 Fall

GIVENCHY 2010 Fall 2012 Spring

MEN 2010 Spring Fall 2012 Fall 2009 Spring

PHOTOS!BY!GIOVANNI!GIANNONI PORTRAIT!BY!PAOLA!PANSINI; RUNWAY!BY!GIOVANNA!PAVESI fitted micro-checkered suits worn with chunky Chelsea boots, or theand protective slightlyhusband. flared pants when she speaks about fashion and art—another passion—flanked by her laid-back ponytail, the shy and low-key designer carefully measures her words, lighting up only for the medium-term period,” she says. be summed up in one word: “consistency.” Consuelo Castiglioni says it exhibited her style guidelines more than ever, which can combinations and, above all, her eccentricity. asymmetric cuts, constantresearch intonew andmaterials, fabrics unusual color the season, the reflected standouts her collection, of deftness one with of precision, was the guest designer at international men’s wear show Pitti Uomo in Florence. The future with its discreet nuances, yet strong personality and touch color.”of come “an inspirational beacon. It’s a lookkind of that is trendier, be- can Marni it’s that men’s wear, in added he fashion moment for strong a theCiting believes. Rosso hit $173 million in 2014. son over totalsales, thepastyear which andnow represents around8percent of grown more than 50 percent each sea- the market and the competition.” plete now. The product is ready to tackle sell-throughs andtheoffer isreally com- glioni admits, “but we have Casti- seenGianni excellent project,” a real wasn’t it wear, wear was complementary to our women’srunwayshow for fall 2006. “Our men’s for spring 2002 and which had its first firstsolo showed together with men’sCastiglionis whichthe wearline, women’s wear la and Viktor & Rolf. Margie- includingMaisonMartin brands and International Staff arm production company alsocontrolstheDieselgroup, holding entrepreneur’s The SpA. OTB brand in December 2012 through his firm by , who took amade stake in theinvestment the leveraging world, 20 years ago. ecutive officer the of brand they founded ex- and creative respectively chief director couples, Consuelo and Gianni Castiglioni, of the fashion industry’s most understated It’s a moment” “magic for Marni. For fall, Castiglioni spun classic tailored looks with her quirky touch—cue the the touch—cue quirky her with looks tailored classic spun Castiglioni fall, For Wearing a soft brown sweater over dark, flared trousers, her hair held back in a “Nothing should be thrown away; I don’t design clothes for one season, but rather But while the show may have put Marni’s men’s wear intofirmly the spotlight, The growing profilethe of Marni man was evident in January, when Castiglioni “It’s an important project, there’s passion and a lotit’s of a great opportunity,” men’s has The wear brand’s division Marni’s grow to is plan the of Part The company is expanding around the That perky assertion comes from one MARNI"ISOUTTO"RAISEITS"MEN’S"PROFILE#BY"STICKING "TO"ITS"IDIOSYNCRATIC"STYLE. no compromise ZARGANI ! LUISA ! BY Fall 2015 Fall Francisco selling both collections is expected to open later this year. which will sell Marni’s women’s and men’s wear, while a store in San May, the company will open a new flagship in Via Montenapoleone, There are 60 Marni stores worldwide, including concessions. In Gianni and Castiglioni Consuelo into accessories such as shoes, bags, gloves and scarves, Cas- tiglioni says she feels her small team of designers is “perfect” as it is and that she is not thinking expandingof it. te, praises the evolution the of collection, saying it has be- come “very strong, solid, complete beautiful, and struc- Despite Marni’s growth plans and product extensionsproduct and plans growthMarni’s Despite tured,” from a very niche, small selection. Cardini says Castiglioni’sperfectlysensibility design and aesthetic architecture” of the architecture”line. of translate into men’s wear and points to the “articulated Tiziana Cardini, fashion director at Italy’s La Rinascen- accelerator on Marni men’s development around the Japan and one in China, but Gianni Castiglioniworld. says The thecompany already has three men’s stores in for the men’s line. plan is to open additional dedicated units. China, Korea, Japan, Italy, the U.K. and the U.S. are the main markets A retail and wholesale strategy is in place to hit the lections and asked about the androgyny spiration for her men’s and women’s col- using “complementary” materials and in- cused style. Following a comment about pattern was an example Castiglioni’s of fo- ed with alpaca inserts in a harlequin-esquespectively.re- Seventies, A and worsted Sixties woolthe on tunic take decorat-own juxtaposed with shrunken sweaters—her Milan next season. runway,” the designer plans tothe to showback us inbrought that experience Florence “was a beautiful and interesting notes. Even though she says showing in um. “A lot peopleof didn’t know it,” she muse- the to drawingvisitors in pride her clothes. She also expresses a tinge of taste,” creating the right association with and vision [her] with “perfectlyline in were sculptures artist’s the says glioni ti—the MarinoMariniMuseum.Casti- choosing thevenue inFlorence for Pit- enjoys borrowing from a man’sthe wardrobe.opposite.” She herself admits that she woman that wears men’s looks, but not sis, admitting that she does think abouter smiles and wiggles a for finger empha- “a trend on this season’s runways, the design- The designer was particular about about particular was designer The ae5 : : page 55 M CollectionS TREND REPORT

Paul Smi"h

Pe$ry E'lis MITRA ! ROBERT ! BY ! OVADIA AQUINO; JOHN ! ! BY ! HART AND ! REID ! NNONI;

Kris Van As()he

Mos)hi*& Bi'ly Reid GIA ! GIOVANNI ! BY ! PHOTOS ! NOTEN ! VAN AND ! ! ACKERMANN " GIVENCHY " VUITTON " LAURENT ! SAINT " KENZO " MOSCHINO ASSCHE " ! VAN ELLIS " " FERRAGAMO

Salv!"or# Fe$$!ga%& FALL %&() BY ALEX BADIA

Kenzo Saint Laur#nt Louis Vui""on Making a statement The topcoat, the protagonist of the season, wants to be noticed. Givenchy, Dries Van Noten, Kenzo and Salvatore Ferragamo went the visual print and embellishment route, while Balenciaga, Carven and Perry Ellis opted for dramatic extra-long silhouettes. Giv#*)hy

David Hart Haider Ackerman* Bale*ciaga Dri#s Van Noten Carv#n Ov!dia & Sons TREND REPORT FALL %&()

Lemair# Tiger of Sw#den Giev#s & Hawk#s return to elegance After seasons of athletic and casual-inspired collections, men are ready to dress up again as seen in the handsome evening capes at Lemaire and Saint Laurent and the traditional black-tie dressing at Ralph Lauren Purple Label and Gieves & Hawkes. Let’s not forget the somber

Thom Brow*e Thom Browne funeral-inspired collection—dark but elegant.

P$!da Ralph Laur#n Purple Lab+l Em,-ri& Armani BANICA RODIN ! ! BY ! HOOLYWOOD N. ; HERMÈSBROWNELONG "" AMI"ANDMAESTRI LEMAIRE "COACH ! BARRETT "BY BURBERRY ! " ! ! SAINTNOTEN PHOTOS "! LAURENT TIGER! "! VAN " DAVIDE ! BY ! VARVATOS AND ! ARMANI ! " PRADA GIANNONI; ! GIOVANNI Dri#s Van Noten Saint Laur#nt Burb+$ry Pror(u% Ami Coa)h Polo Ralph Laur#n followING the herd The shearling seems to be taking the place of the bomber jacket as the most popular item of the season. While some houses like John Varvatos, Neil Barrett and Burberry Prorsum went the Ryan O’Neal in Love Story traditional route, other brands such as Ami, Ports 1961 and Coach added utility elements to shine a new light on the cozy and rich heritage piece.

Mi)hael Kors Ports 1961 John Varv!"os Ja%#s Long Hermès N. H.olyw..d

Nei' Ba$r/"t TREND REPORT FALL %&()

Y-3 Bo"tega Ve*/"! John E'li&"t + Co. green giant Military influences at Alexander McQueen, Craig Green and Y-3, and hiking-inspired collections at Sacai, Hackett London and 3.1 Phillip Lim used green in all its shades as the unifying color of the season.

An* De%eule%e#(ter Er%e*e0i'd& Ze0na Coutur# Umit Benan Hardy Ami#s T.dd Snyder Alexa*der McQ1een 3.1 Phi'lip Lim Hack/"t Lo*d&n

C$!ig Gr#en

Berluti Sacai J. Li*deb+rg Ba*d of Outsiders DEMEULEMEESTER#$"MCQUEEN LIM" GREEN" Y GIANNONI;" ! ZEGNA" GIOVANNI BENAN"! BY ERICKSEN ! ! BERLUTI"KYLE PHOTOS AND! ! ! SACAI ! BY LINDEBERG ! BANICA; RODIN ! ! BY SNYDER ! AND ! ! ELLIOTT MAESTRI; ! DAVIDE ! BY ! VENETA Patrik Erv#'l Yohji Yama%&"o Bi'ly Reid Calvin Klein Co'lecti&n H..d by Air Maison Mar0iela Ami

TREND REPORT FALL %&() blow it up Reflecting the overall move toward oversize silhouettes, pants are finally gaining volume. From high-waisted pleated numbers at Maison Margiela, Balmain and Dunhill to the Nineties raver-inspired trousers at Calvin Klein Collection, Patrik Ervell and HBA, the new proportion feels

bigger, bolder and more playful than the skinny pairs in seasons past. SHELDON MINICK ! BY BY REID ! NODA;

Du*hi'l Public S)h.ol Balmain YAMAMOTO " MARGIELA JOHN ! AQUINO; KLEIN ! BY! DAVIDE ! MAESTRI;" HOOD AMI! BY ! AIR ! BY ! RODIN ! BANICA;" DUNHILL PUBLIC! SCHOOL ! AND !LACOSTE BY! GEORGE ! CHINSEE;" BALMAINANDERSON! BY ! DO " SIMONS " SANDER " LANVIN "" NO. %& AND ! TOPMAN! BY ! GIOVANNI ! GIANNONI; ERVELL ! BY ! MASATO !O Raf Si%&ns Ji' Sa*der Lanvin

Laco(te Maison Mar0iela

J.W. A*derson

’70s fever Blame it on Nicolas Ghesquière or the success of American Hustle, but the disco era is back. Topman Design’s bell-bottoms, Lanvin’s leather trenches, J.W. Anderson’s nutmeg suede ensembles and Marc Jacobs’ corduroy suits could have stepped

off the set of That ’70s Show. Marc Jacobs No. 21 Topman D#si0n The parade of models at the Adidas Originals Kanye West by Yeezy Season 1 show. The (Re) Education of Kanye West THE"HEADLINE$GENERATING"HIP$HOP"STAR"GETS"SERIOUS"ABOUT"FASHION. BY ERIK MAZA

On the last day of New York Fashion Week, as the likes of Terry J. Lun- dgren and Huma Abedin shifted in their seats at Ralph Lauren’s 10 a.m. show, Kanye West emerged from backstage and quietly took his place. Though he had been ubiquitous in the preceding weeks, it was surpris- ing to see him here, as he usually gravitates toward designers of more recent vintage, and there was something different about his appear- ance, too. He looked, well, sedate. The hostile Kanye who’d snarled at a reporter for asking about his “damn kids” was gone. You might even say he was happy.

M CollectionS : : page 64 “I"SIMPLY LOVE In the insular, clubby world of fashion, he was sitting in CLOTHES ‘This guy is really into fashion.’ It took me by surprise,’” Geller what passes as its royal box, to the left of Ricky Lauren in the said. When West asked him to join his team at Adidas as a con- section reserved for the family. Finally, as far as the kingmakers sultant, he found the singer deadly serious about the work. were concerned, Kanye, designer, had arrived, and he knew it. “He wants to work as a designer. He wants to have a place “I think he’s the greatest designer of our time,” he gushed AND"I’M where there are sample makers and patternmakers working about his host, before adding a telling correction, “The most together. He didn’t want to just put different color stripes on important designer of our time.” a ,” Geller said. When West presented his first women’s collection, he The full-court press, by and large, had its intended effect. came across as a clueless parvenu transparently trying to cash TRYING"MY West was always appreciated as a front-row guest—a star is in on his celebrity for design credibility. Critics were not kind. a star after all—and that continues to be the case. After Lau- A little more than three years later, he emerged a winner of ren posted a picture of the designer with West, it became the the New York collections, his and missus Kim Kardashian’s BEST"TO label’s “most engaged social media post ever,” according to a mere presence the story that dominated a season light on In- spokesman. “One site even likened it to Michelangelo’s Sis- stagram moments (...the frenzy followed them to Paris). And tine Chapel image of God touching Adam. Ralph Lauren saw his splashy collaboration with Adidas, Yeezy Season 1, drew, an increase in followers of 82,000.” Ka-ching! But it’s not just if not unanimous praise, then respectful approval, and by far LEARN.” that. There’s something endearing about an outsider who so the starriest front row seen throughout the shows—not just # KANYE"WEST badly wants to be invited in that’s won over designers. And, superstars Beyoncé and Jay Z and Rihanna, but designers Al- a funny thing has happened as West has gone on his listening exander Wang and Robert Geller. In the end, the New York tours: He may have picked up a few tricks. After Yeezy was season fared only slightly better, but it was around then a little shows may be remembered most as the season when Kanye presented, their verdict, and various critics’ was: Not bad, not television personality known as Kim entered his life. West finally seduced fashion and, slowly, he’s cementing his bad at all, as WWD put it. (Social media was another story.) It was 2013 when West’s fashion reboot began. He teamed place as the first solo musician since Sean Combs to be wel- “Kanye is an extraordinary talent, and a boundless cre- up with APC on a capsule men’s collection and he replaced comed into the industry’s inner sanctum. ative force,” Wang said via e-mail. “One of the many things Puma with Adidas in a wide-ranging deal that eventually gave “Fashion is not an easy business [in which] to gain respect, that makes him special is that he sees possibility where oth- us Yeezy Season 1. Around then, he also began treating the fash- especially when you come from the outside with an already ers see limitations. He is fearless, he breaks boundaries and ion industry as a fraternity he desperately wanted to pledge. established identity,” Alexander Wang said. “His show during defines new standards.” He played the part of cheerleader, going to as many shows as the recent New York Fashion Week was a seminal moment “Between his passion and curiosity to continuously learn presidential candidates attend state fairs in Iowa. Just the fall col- for him, and I was so honored I could be there.” and expand his horizons, and the amount of great things he’s lections: John Elliott, Wang’s namesake show and Balenciaga, “When he told me he was interested in working with Adi- had access to—which he’s earned as a musical artist—he has Scott, Geller, Ralph Lauren, Balmain, Lanvin and Dior. das, I actually reached out to the powers that be and encour- acquired a vast knowledge,” Scott said. “I feel like he can bring Asked what appealed to him about Lauren, his aesthetic aged them to give him a chance,” Jeremy Scott said. “His pas- to sportswear a refinement coupled with the innovation of the or his marketing genius, West said: “I appreciate both things. sion for fashion was so great I felt that something good would Adidas brands. Why shouldn’t good design also feel good?” That’s all I think about. When I pick out a home, I think of come out of the relationship.” Geller was impressed by West’s sangfroid under pressure. Ralph Lauren, the way he gave me the American dream, and West’s stunning comeback into fashion’s embrace has He points out that unlike Stella McCartney or Yohji Yamamo- he really set an amazing standard for us to aspire to.” been in the works for some time, helped along by his tabloid- to, who brought their entire ateliers to work on their collabo- Later, he turned up at a party in Paris for the LVMH Prize ready marriage, which has landed him a Vogue cover and a Bal- rations with Adidas, West assembled a team from scratch, and to both kiss the brass ring of the top brass—he mugged it up main advertising campaign as well as the undivided attention then presented a collection under immense scrutiny. in pictures with and Michael Burke—and to of the world’s paparazzi corps. But above all, it’s the result of “It took a long time, but not if you think about the fact praise the up-and-comers. And he’s also sought the advice of West’s own canny and savvy courting of the industry. there wasn’t an infrastructure there for him to start with,” industry shamans, like the late Louise Wilson, whose funeral His flirtation with fashion began a decade ago, when, riding Geller said. “I’m glad nobody put a microscope on my first he attended, and designers he admires, like Scott and Geller. high from the unanimous critical reception to his sophomore collection. It’s a great first outing. There’s some really beauti- “We had an hour-long conversation. We talked about album, Late Registration, he decided to take the road well trod ful things in there.” denim washes, washing techniques, color palettes. I thought, by many of his peers in the music business to release an apparel If, during the New York shows, West sometimes couldn’t line, Pastelle (which eventually shuttered). Various collabora- help himself—there was the hectoring at a reporter, the 45-min- tions followed but didn’t stick, including a footwear line with ute wait time in the freezing cold to see his show—at Ralph Louis Vuitton. In 2007, the year he released “Stronger,” a song Lauren, he was the picture of sweetness, in RRL camo pants, that generously name-checks Vuitton, he attended no fewer crewneck shirt and fur-lined hooded jacket. When a reporter than 10 shows, including Chanel, Givenchy and Jeremy Scott. approached to ask some questions, he even offered him a seat. “He came by the studio where I was doing my fittings to “I simply love clothes and I’m trying my best to learn,” he say ‘hi,’” Scott recalled of his first meeting with the singer. “I said. “You know, making clothes is an extremely difficult exer- was immediately struck by how curious he was about fash- cise and you have to be very experienced and very knowledge- ion and my work. He asked me when I’d be back home in able to do something that’s worth people actually buying. It’s a Los Angeles and said he would come by and hang out. Sure long journey and I just wanted to come here and bow to a true enough, the day I got back, there was Kanye at my doorstep master. And hopefully one day I can make one garment that with his laptop.” can be mentioned in the same breath as his.” West finally got serious and showed a full-fledged women’s After West respectfully stood up with the rest of the family collection in the fall of 2011, but the reaction from critics, not to Ralph Lauren as the designer took his bow, he was backstage waiting patient- mention scores of commenters online, was vicious. What may greets West a"er ly to pay his respects. Lauren gave him a fatherly pat on the have passed as swagger in the music world struck the fashion his women’s show. cheek and West broke out an elated grin, like an autograph- industry as distasteful braggadocio. “Stick to the day job,” the seeker who’d finally met his idol.

LAUREN! OFDAVID COURTESY ! ! ! STEVEEICHNER;! BY ! ! PHOTO BACKSTAGE ! RUNWAY Telegraph’s Lisa Armstrong advised him. A follow-up the next

page 65 : : M CollectionS Mikhail Baryshnikov and Lil Buck fronted a film for the fall collection. RAG & BONE MEN BRITS"MARCUS"WAINWRIGHT"AND"DAVID"NEVILLE HAVE"BUILT"A %&'' MILLION$PLUS"BRAND"THAT"BEGAN WITH"AN"AMERICAN"STAPLE#THE"JEAN. BY JEAN E. PALMIERI PORTRAIT!BY!JENNA!GREENE

It all started with a pair of jeans. But over the past 13 years, Rag & Bone, the company run by British-born managing partners David Neville and Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, has created a $200 Marcus Wainwright million-plus global brand that references their British back- grounds blended with a healthy dose of New York sensibility. But Rag & Bone started with a failure. After selling off a successful telecommunications busi- ness he had created in the U.K., Wainwright, 40, traveled the world searching for his next challenge. Tired of the rain in London, he went to Mexico with the thought of becoming a diving instructor. Although he met his wife on the beach there, diving just wasn’t going to cut it. “I had nothing else to do and I didn’t need to work because of the telecom business, but I soon got sick of that,” he recalls. Instead, he followed Glenna, the woman who would eventually marry him and bear him three children, to New York. He considered opening up a chain of sandwich shops, but Pret a Manger beat him to it. “So my idea was to try and learn how to make a pair of jeans. I wore Levi’s, but they weren’t right,” Wainwright says. He proceeded to pound the pavement in New York, searching for someone who could make a pair of rigid, unwashed dark denim jeans that would fit his 6-foot, 3-inch frame properly. When that proved unsuccessful, he turned to Hong Kong, providing a manufacturer there with a sketch of the jeans he envisioned and placing an order for 300 pairs. But “We were lucky in timing,” he adds. “Premium at our level didn’t re- when the jeans arrived at his apartment in Brooklyn, they didn’t fit. “I ally exist in 2001-2002.” But Rogan—“the first of the ludicrously expen- was super naïve,” he says with a shake of his head. “One of the hardest sive jeans,” he says—created a market and Rag & Bone jumped onboard. things to make, even now, is a pair of jeans. And I had no specs, nothing.” “Our first jeans were $280,” he says. He didn’t have a pair of jeans that fit, but Wainwright did have tenac- From those first two styles of jeans, Rag & Bone has grown in leaps ity, so he next traveled to Kentucky, where he found the right factory. His and bounds—and attracted some heavy-hitting investors along the way. jeans quest was finally fulfilled. The label is now sold in more than 700 stores in 57 countries. It also op- The first collection under the Rag & Bone name debuted in 2004 and erates more than 30 stores around the world. included two styles of men’s jeans—trouser and five pocket—along with “Our first presentation we showed jeans, trousers, chinos, some some other pants and T-shirts. shirts, overcoats and suits, whatever we could cobble together,” Wain- “It took from the end of 2001 when I had the first seed of an idea wright says. “Our first show was men’s and women’s, but it was mostly and came up with the name to the end of 2004 to sell something,” men’s wear for women. But the story we told from the beginning was RAG & BONE& OFRAG ! ! MARCUS! BY WAINWRIGHT/COURTESY ! ! PHOTO ! BARYSHNIKOV Wainwright remembers. authenticity and value.”

page 67 : : M CollectionS M CollectionS facture things and really took the pressure off.” credit, which was “huge,” Neville says. “It enabled us to manu- credit,” Wainwright says with a chuckle. eral here, it wasn’t easy to get a loan. “But AndrewNeville was hadAmerican and betterhad no established credit or collat- was totally self-funded. But because neither Wainwright nor He’s even my daughter’s godfather.” could have. He’s mentored us in the true sensethe word.of we partner best the “He’s Wainwright explains. ours,” of 2006. in investment personal a made Theory, cofounded who the brand was when Andrew Rosen, the fashion industryOK, that was pretty veterangood,” Wainwright says. Swarovski Awards and saying, ‘Way to go, mate.’ I thought, America. ers of Design- Fashion of Council Year the the by of Designer wear talent in men’s wear in 2007, and in 2010, was named Mens- beginning, it was “all hands on deck, and that served us well.” has become more pronounced over time,” NevilleDistrict says. Inheadquarters, the has a “divide and conquer philosophy says. “I thatloved it from an early age.” the businessRag & end Bone. of Westman, was convinced to relocate to New York and head Eventually, Neville, Gucci who tomakeupartist ismarried ing. “You medown turned for ayear,” Wainwright recalls. an investment bankerintheU.K. when hisfriendcamecall- school outside London as teenagers. Neville was working as Neville, 39, Wainwright’s buddy since they met at boarding “I hadasensethatIwanted towork Neville infashion,” Also integral to Rag & Bone’s success was the addition of Through Rosen, Rag & Bone secured a $500,000 line of of line $500,000 a secured Bone & Rag Rosen, Through Before Rosen cameonboard, Neville says, &Bone Rag “He gave us earlya lot adviceof and is a very good friend In addition to a celebrity following, another turning the at point me forto up coming Bowie David remember “I Rag & Bone snagged the Swarovski Award for emerging Quite well, it turns out. Together, the duo, who share an office at their Meatpacking

: page 68 make awesome clothes that inspire people,” Wainwrightis based on tailored, sport and military-inspired says. pieces. “We lieve, is the “core philosophy” the of brand, whose men’s wear and Asia, they say. to take a piece ourselvesof and plant it overseas.” an office in London that we will be expanding. We’re trying ityour of business is in America,” Neville says. “But we have brand,” Neville says. a franchise arrangement. under operated latter the Asia, in 10 and London in store one is there Internationally, Fla. Harbour, Bal and Colo., Aspen, Conn., Greenwich, Dallas, Boston, D.C., ington, and four There are inCalifornia. are alsounitsinWash- York New City in are U.S., six the in operates it stores 20 doing. we’re It all feels what authentic.” to true stay to continue we but milestones, Neville says. assortment,” “We’ve of lot a through been overallcohesivethe and to gory,effortless quite feels it “Whenever2012. newfall cate- a in into wefray get the joined Women’s 2010. in launched line, focused denim- a Jean, Bone & Rag and 2009, in added was wear Foot- faith.” Neville of calls“abigmilestone”anda“leap which 2008, in West Village the in Street Christopher on store first its opened company The sales. overall of cent per- 70 women’srepresentsnow wearand 2006 spring in developed was collection women’s full A accessories. and shoes including categories, other into out branch to among mainstreamallowed consumers—has &Bone Rag the brand, joining Rosen as the second minority partner. Those investments—and the acceptance of the brand brand the of acceptance the investments—and Those In 2013, Irving Place Capital also made an investment in Retail remains a key cog in the company’s wheel. Of the the Of wheel. company’s the in a cog key remains Retail What connectswithpeoplearoundthe world, they be- Key markets outside the U.S. include Northern Europe “We’re English guys in New York City and the vast major- And that’sthe goals one forof the future. “We don’t see why we can’t be a global men’s and women’s clothes for clothes spring. modeled the and Honor Titus Carmelo Anthony Jerry Seinfeld, Celebrities such as to dancers Mikhail Baryshnikov and Lil Buck to featureBaryshnikovto Mikhail Buck Lil in and dancers to thony wearing the clothes. For the fall show, the duo turnedAn- Carmelo Seinfeldand Jerry as such friends famous of season it wasshot by a photo Andreasdiary Laszlo Konrath ditional catwalk format for a different message. kind of Last shows. runway Foron severalpast the years, eschewedhas brand the tra- the take innovative Bone’s & Rag in evident thetic blended with elegance a and touch refinement. of that effectively thelinebetween straddled anathleticstreet aes- double-face flannel pants, lection,boiled for woolexample, parkas offered andsoftly The col- fall with.” raw-cut we’re tailoredin ways the things familiar same “rooted deconstructed T-shirts suits, Guys are far less likely to take a fashion risk.” they’re“But theythat far so pushed not won’t wear them. more clothes. It’s a pretty obvious cycle.” make to enablesus that and clothes sell and clothes make ful blending of art and commerce. “It’s not an easy line tostory. tread.”To this day, we have a fairly unique offering.” placeright the at at thejust Werightwere hard. time.that Wenot but havehard, worked a cool we’ve brandAnd it. withof some an taken authenticand advice of lot a to tened needed everything Andrew [Rosen] gave to us,” Neville says. themselves in the highly competitive fashion business. “We they “feel the pain” of emerging designers fightingAlthough toRag &establish Bone’s success is undeniable, the “Weduo admitslike doing interesting and stuff challenging the status quo.” not newa lot categories of that we want to add. ness that needs to be international,”waythe in they’ve “Thisdoing. been largelyis busi-American an Wainwright says.diateplanscenteraroundcontinuingenvelope the push to “There are Understanding the psyche of themaleconsumeralsois thepsycheUnderstanding of . s d d a e l l i ev N ” , l a y o l d n a r b e r o m e r ’ He said that while y the collection evolves e every h season, it’s al- t d n “A Perhaps, but, his partner says, the formula is simple: “We In Neville’s mind, the company has been built on the success- “We’veverybeen lucky,” Wainwright adds.“We’ve lis- “We perceive Rag & Bone as a singular brand,” he continues. grow.” Although they admit that that imme- admit their never, say never they’d they to pushed Although grow.” being without hard is enough destiny own our of control in and autonomous be to ability “The the public feels unlikely,” Wainwright says. the brand or go public. are clear about: There are no plans to sell main high, there’s one thing the partners such innovative moves translate into actual model a little bit.” regularthe guy. We’re the challenging says. “Runway shows don’t resonate with 1 million times. viewed been has nearly dancers online the of video The collection. pieces the from wearing film three-minute a Bone,” Neville says. also serves to“create avoice for & Rag work ume overof the last five years.” season. They’re more interested inavol- about what they see on the runway each effect that rubs off. Guys don’t get excitednever feel directly. We hope it has a halo have “a consumer impact, which you can sales, Wainwright believes it will ultimately “Whether we’d want to answer to answer to want we’d “Whether Although it’s hard to measure whether “Times have changed,” Wainwright While thecompany’s re- aspirations This typeout-of-the-box of thinking

PHOTOS!BY!ANDREAS!LASZLO!KONRATH S U P R E M E LORDS

KUBAVISION PHOTOGRAPHS BY KUBA DABROWSKI STREET TRIBES

STREET STYLE HAS BECOME A SERIOUS MATTER IN MEN’S WEAR, AND FASHION WEEKS HAVE BECOME AN URBAN RUNWAY. BETWEEN TRADITIONAL TAILORING IN THE STREETS OF FLORENCE AND LONDON AND THE RICK OWENS CULT FOLLOWERS IN PARIS, THERE IS A CLEAR DIVIDE WITHIN THE FASHION GROUP. BY ALEX BADIA

TRADITIONAL

GENTLEMAN page 69 : : M CollectionS DARK STREETS

KUBAVISION PHOTOGRAPHS BY KUBA DABROWSKI

REAL FASHIONISTA E F F O R T L E S S MAN

UGLY CHIC page 71 : : M CollectionS TEXTURES MEN’S"ACCESSORIES"ARE"ALL"THE"RAGE. HERE"ARE"THIS"SEASON’S"MUST$HAVES"FOR"THE"MODERN"MAN.

1 2

3

5

7

6

4

9

10 +

11

8

13

1. Louis Vuitton briefcase 12 2. Louis Vuitton sneaker

14 3. Michael Kors duffel bag 4. Gucci 5. Coach wallet 15 6. Balenciaga wallet 7. Tod's dopp kit 8. Parabellum attaché case 9. Jimmy Choo backpack 10. Santiago Gonzalez cardholder 11. Salvatore Ferragamo wallet 12. Ralph Lauren duffel bag 13. Parabellum keychains 14. Ghurka case 15. Burberry briefcase 16 16. Christian Louboutin PRINTS

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5 + 7

6

10 11

8

9

12 1. Dior Homme briefcase and mini backpack 2. Pierre Hardy case 3. Loewe belt Givenchy sneaker 14 4. 5. Ports 1961 duffel bag 6. Altea scarf 7. Givenchy backpack 8. Want Les Essentiels de la Vie tote 9. Oxydo sunglasses 10. Balenciaga card case 11. Massimo Alba pocket square 13 15 12. Loewe wallet 13. Paul Smith tie 14. Fendi micro backpack 15. Valentino backpack

PHOTOGRAPHS!BY!GEORGE!CHINSEE / STYLED!BY!RACHEL!STICKLEY commerce sites are stocked with the designers that resonate are answering thissurge by ensuringthattheirstores ande- since2010.Retailerscent compoundedannual growth rate the global market for men’s wear has been growing at a 4 per- story internationally. According to consultinga 4 percent firmgain, Bainaccording to& TheCo., NPD Group. It’s the same creased 5 percent in 2013, while women’s trailed behind male withcustomer is responding. Men’s wear sales in the U.S. in- injecting newness intotheonce-stagnantcategory, andthe circles: Men’s wear ishaving are amoment.Bolddesigners It’s no longer news to anyone in even the broadest fashionof M CollectionS fall we will add the JW Anderson collection. For this spring season we added Loewe by creative on thedirector cover the fashionof JW mailer, Anderson. has sold out already.For This army green decorated field jacket from Off-White, featured a Neoprene sweatshirt with a graphic print on the front. The graphic printed tees that completely sold through along with sold out.Hoodby Airgave exclusivity onsome toBarneys in mailer a in featured our fashion are also doing well. Items like the Balenciaga sneaker that is andBuscemi Margiela fromBalenciaga, Designer sneakers Godare velocity. experiencing great Off-White andFear of very forwardof men’s apparel collections like Hood by Air, havethat for Theproduct. designer appetite strong sales a ing more diverse. We are attracting new and younger clients “The men’s business isgrowing andtheaudienceisbecom- BARNEYS##NEW YORK%#NEW#YORK* GENERAL#MERCHANDISE#MANAGER#OF#MEN’S%# $! KALENDERIAN ! TOM ported by our friend .” a label created by Francesco from Ragazzi Moncler and sup- known, Kelly Slater’s new andPalm lifestyle Angels, brand, Outer- in We’re bringing shoppers. of terms in growth for] South America has always our been biggest one of [regions Visvim are doing well. Shoes and accessories always do well. holiday. Simons, Raf Junya Watanabe Man, Julien David and Yorkers who are in Miami for the weekendMexico,and Brazil from Americans Latin New andof amount Europeans on multiple male shoppers including professional athletes,important a market as thea women’slarge wear business. We have “The growth inmen’s wear hasmadeusrealizethatit’s as BUYER%#THE# WEBSTER%#MIAMI* LAURE!HERIARD!DUBREUIL$! Asian customer is buying more fashionable, statement pieces.” and Italy. We’re seeing thesortment. most Our growthtop marketsin Asiaare theand U.S.,the ombo, Kolor, U.S. WooyoungmiChina, and Boris Bidjan Saberi to U.K.,our as- Our Germany are top-selling categories. We will be introducing Massimo Pi- signer clothing, Givenchy accessories and Saint LaurentRick Owens and Balmain shoesare selling well right now. French de- wants. He looks for something special.“Our male customer is Saintfashion-oriented andLaurent, knows what he Givenchy,BUYER%#LUISAVIAROMA %#FLORENCE* MASSIMILIANO!DE!MARIANIS$ category’s growth. who these designers are and which regions are propelling withthe this fashion-hungry customer. Men’s wear buyers reveal THERE’S"ANEWMALECONSUMER"WITHAVORACITY"FOR"INNOVATIVE"DESIGN. HERE’S"WHAT "HE’S"BUYING. page 74 : : EXECUTIVE#VICE#PRESIDENT%# dégradé COFOUNDER#AND# GLOBALGUY " " THE #MEN’S#WEAR# treatment has nearly nearly has treatment best-selling styles from these brands lookingare alwaysto mix thosethe thatbigger really brands everywherewith lesser-known else. It’s not pieces.about the head-to-toeOur newlook. Theyand are cult labels, and for producta new typethat men’s of isn’t wear asconsumer. widely He available yearshas we’ve“Over thelastcoupleof seentheriseof certainly a real appetite for MATCHESFASHION%COM$!LONDON" DAMIEN!PAUL$! HEAD! OF! MEN’S! WEAR$! Christopher Raeburn and By Walid.” new Japanese designer, Anrealage, and Englishents enjoydesigners Paul Harnden. We will start carrying Boris Bidjan Saberi and Isaac Sellam. a Asian cli- of fond be will customers Russian designs. Shoes are doing well. Australians buy Japanese nese brands and Paul Harnden are doing well. in their countries, and veryitems. Japa- specific sold not are that clothes for mainly look They perts. They are very influenced by the Internet. ex- becoming arethey and fashion, in ested inter-more and more [becoming] are “Men BUYER%#L’ECLAIREUR %#PARIS*# PHILIPPE!$! BONNABEL Robert Clergerie shoes.” new brands include Markus Lupfer, Juun.J andpositively. business season, spring Forthis sartorialfashion hasimpacted ourmen’s booties. The emergence of streetwear and in Italy and Spain. The German appreciate in Japan and the U.K. They like sneakers shoe style in the U.S. They prefer loafers try. For example, the coun- to lace-upcountry from fer is a favorite Shoe preferences also dif- whopreferhats. British, to Americans, French and opposed as scarves,prefer ers. Japanese and the Italians lov-accessories are Men ries. and sweatpants are topcatego- doing well. Sneakers, sweatshirts are Burlon Marcelo and ing brands such as MSGM Simons,Raf Neil Barrett and emerg- inmen’s terms of fashion. Balmain, in the past, creating a higher demand willing to spend more on quality than pearancethan they used to. They are ap- their about moremuchcare “Men COM%#BOLOGNA%#ITALY* MERCHANDISING%#THECORNER( KATHERINE!YOO$! clients and we will have them coming in for fall.” by specifically wererequested sneakers Pieces School, Rip-Off’s, Saturdays Surf and Visvim. Filling footwear from Hood by Air, Etonic, Article No., Public ney, Denham Denim, andJour- Long R13. Green, WeCraig Visvim, Tomas Maier, added are we also also introducing spring HEAD## OF MEN’S# ! JUNYA#WATANABE#MAN NEIL#BARRETT CRAIG#GREEN ing and wants exclusive products. Thom Browne, Ami, ample, the tie-front pieces that were signatures. thedesigners’ This season,for ex-carry featured in Craig the brand. the Thebrand. customer is more and more demand- He loves clothes and likes to know the story “Our maleshopperiswell aboutfashion. informed behind LE#BON#%#MARCHÉ PARIS* Green’s runway show were a sellout within the first VIRGINIE!SARTRES$! Acne, APC, Givenchy, Oliver , Surface to Air two going weeks online. of We’re also seeing a strong reaction to pieces with an artisanal feel-strong reaction topieceswithanartisanal and New Balance sneakers are doing well right ing. Haider Ackermann’s jacquard outerwear now. Trousers, shirts, sneakers by Valentino and is always among his bestsellers. it’sIf the right These designers’ appeal is widespread. Balenciaga, shoulder bags and Balenciaga, scarves are sell- ing well. We have realized that clients from the Lemaire, which is arriving online soon. soon. online arriving is which Lemaire, RAF#SIMONS Middle East are looking for formal and volume of customer queries about about queries customer of volume price. We’ve also been receiving a piecehigh then we really see no barrier on are considering new brands such as such brands new considering are Craig Green. Fear God, of Boris Bidjan Saberi and byGivenchy terns Versace.and We products withstrongprintsandpat- custom-made suits, while our Asian cli- Ackermann and Markus Lupfer.” ents purchase more fashion-forward, start carrying include Sacai, Haider trendpieces.wewillNewbrands clients show a particular interest in JUNG!BIN!KIM$! well. Shoppers are buying buying are Shoppers well. by Saint Laurent. Chinese jackets and denim skinny

van Noten is also selling selling also is Noten van MEN’S#STYLIST%# BY ARIA HUGHES ARIA BY increases as well. Dries well. as increases WEAR#BUYER%# “We are seeing an in- an seeing “Weare Air have shown sales sales shown have Air newcustom- of crease White and Hood by by Hood and White Mc- Alexander ers. SEOUL* BOON#THE#SHOP%# with street brands Off-with street brands Givenchy, Queen, and Raf Simonsand Raf along Balen- Laurent, Saint as Haider Ackermann such brands designer mand. Recently, young have had a constant de- Valentino and ciaga MEN’S#

PHOTOS!BY!GIOVANNI!GIANNONI BORIS!BIDJAN! EDMUND!OOI RICK!OWENS THOM!BROWNE KYE SABERI MAÎTRE;RODINHOODAIR! ! BY BY BANICA! ! !

PHILIPP!PLEIN ISSEY!MIYAKE ASTRID!ANDERSEN KTZ SHAUN !SAMSON

MOSCHINO SAINT!LAURENT SIBLING HOOD!BY!AIR ALEX!MATTSSON DOMINIQUE ! ! BY ! MIYAKE AND ! ! SABERI GIANNONI; ! GIOVANNI ! BY ! PHOTOS ! BROWNE AND ! SIBLING ! " LAURENT " OWENS PLEIN " " MOSCHINO " KTZ ANDERSEN " What were they thinking? were they What

! THE LINE.! CROSSED ! THAT ! EXAMPLES OF LOOKS ! AND MISSING THE MARK. HERE ARE SOME ! A FINE LINE BETWEEN PUSHING THE ENVELOPE THERE’S page 75 : : M CollectionS CollectionS : : Page 76 Photograph by Irving Penn

THE MAN WHO WAS M JOHN B. FAIRCHILD, who died in late February at age 87, founded the original M magazine in 1983—the first cover of which featured Prince Philip. Seen here in a 1997 portrait by Irving Penn, Mr. Fairchild—as he will forever be remembered—not only established the editorial principles that defined the magazine and its siblings, Women’s Wear Daily and W, but also personified the M man: witty, effortlessly stylish, chivalrous and endlessly curious. WWD PLACES THE WORLD OF FASHION AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.

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