
AN ISSUE OF CollectionS THE!NEW FORMAL DIOR’S!STELLAR!SHOW"COMPLETE WITH!A!FULL!ORCHESTRA" CAPTURED!THE!FALL!SEASON’S MORE!DRESSED#UP!VIBE KANYE: LOVE HIM OR HATE HIM? TISCI TELLS TALES GENDER BENDER ANDROGYNY REIGNS MODEL STARS RUNWAY TRENDS THE GLOBAL GUY JONATHAN’S SONG A MOMENT FOR MARNI NEW YORK’S DYNAMIC DUO CollectionS CONTENTS FEATURES 30 HIS!TAKE A peek behind the scenes with M Collection’s fashion director Alex Badia during his whirlwind fashion week adventure. 42 BLURRED!LINES The runway was filled this season with androgynous looks, but the gender-bending aesthetic is hardly new. 44 SHAKING! THINGS!UP Jonathan Anderson has only been in business for a few years, but he’s already had a major influence. 52 TISCI'S!TAKE Givenchy designer Riccardo Tisci opens up about his career in men’s wear, the controversy about androgyny and his use of social media. 64 KANYE'S! FASHION!MOMENT The hip-hop star and designer wannabe finally breaks through for fall with a critically acclaimed collaboration with Adidas. LOOSENING!UP"!The tailored MARTINEZ 66 MAKING!IT! wardrobe has been updated for fall ! IN!THE!RAG!TRADE with looser silhoue#es on suits and Rag & Bone’s Marcus Wainwright overcoats, many in heritage men's RODOLFO ! wear fabrics. Here, Caruso’s wool suit BY and David Neville have built ! and Boglioli’s co#on shirt. Bo#ega a $200 million-plus business Veneta scarf and shoes. Page 46 PHOTO over the past decade. CONTENTS BETWEEN!THE!LINES 10 TOP! 20 NEW!PLAYER INSTAGRAM! It’s been a long time coming, MOMENTS but New York is finally Where would the fashion getting its own men’s world be without Instagram? fashion week, in July. CollectionS A look at some of the best from fashion weeks. 24 MODELS!OF! PERFECTION 12 STREETS! A closer look at the most OF!DREAMS popular male models on this Savile Row has some season’s runways, plus competition for male Lucky Blue’s social media consumers from Carnaby savvy pays dividends. M Street in London and !!!!!!ON!THE!COVER! Dior’s symphonic moment. Via Gesù in Milan. 29 INSPIRATION!BOARD Photo by Giovanni Giannoni The stylish men who 14 STANDING!TALL inspired designers’ fall A social media frenzy at Six designers who collections, from Marlon Burberry Prorsum. stood out for fall. Brando to Jeff Koons. Photo by Alfredo Piola M WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 209, NO. 53. Sunday, March 15, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, June, August, September, October, November and December, and two additional issues in April and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd 9th Fl, Los Angeles, CA 90025. Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year a"er the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks a"er receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WWD, 475 5th Ave, 15th Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. CollectionS : : Page 6 CollectionS EDWARD#NARDOZA EDITOR!IN!CHIEF JAMES#FALLON EDITOR ALEX#BADIA FASHION!DIRECTOR JEAN#PALMIERI MANAGING!EDITOR MILES#SOCHA EUROPEAN!EDITOR LUISA#ZARGANI BUREAU!CHIEF$!MILAN SAMANTHA#CONTI BUREAU!CHIEF$!LONDON ERIK#MAZA EYE!EDITOR LUIS#CAMPUZANO ASSOCIATE!FASHION!EDITOR ARIA#HUGHES MEN'S!REPORTER JOELLE#DIDERICH SENIOR!BUSINESS!NEWS!EDITOR$!PARIS ALESSANDRA#TURRA FASHION!AND!NEWS!CORRESPONDENT$!MILAN PAULINA#SZMYDKE GENERAL!ASSIGNMENT!REPORTER$!PARIS NINA#JONES LONDON!CORRESPONDENT LORELEI#MARFIL EDITORIAL!ASSISTANT$!LONDON FREDERICK#MARFIL CONTRIBUTING!EDITOR HAIG#SIMONIAN ZURICH!CORRESPONDENT WWD%COM MICHELLE#PRELI SITE!DIRECTOR ROBERTA#CORREIA WEB!EDITOR KRISTEN#TAUER ASSISTANT!ONLINE!EDITOR GABRIELLA#CALABRO SOCIAL!MEDIA!MANAGER LAYOUT/COPYDESK MAUREEN#MORRISON$SHULAS COPY!CHIEF ANNE#ROHAIEM CONSULTING!COPY!EDITOR DANIELLE#GILLIARD%#MAXINE#WALLY COPY!EDITORS ART!DEPARTMENT ANDREW#FLYNN GROUP!ART!DIRECTOR SHARON#BER ASSOCIATE!ART!DIRECTOR BARBARA#SULLIVAN CONSULTING!ART!DIRECTOR ZACHARY#GILYARD CONSULTING!DESIGNER PHOTOGRAPHY CARRIE#PROVENZANO PHOTO!DIRECTOR JENNA#GREENE ASSISTANT!PHOTO!EDITOR KATRINA#BROWN PHOTO!ASSISTANT EILEEN#TSUJI PHOTO!STUDIO!MANAGER PHOTOGRAPHERS JOHN#AQUINO%#GEORGE#CHINSEE%#STEVE#EICHNER%#KYLE#ERICKSEN%# THOMAS#IANNACCONE%#GIOVANNI#GIANNONI%#STÉPHANE#FEUGÈRE%#DOMINIQUE#MAÎTRE%# DAVIDE#MAESTRI%#KUBA#DABROWSKI%#DELPHINE#ACHARD%#TIM#JENKINS PREPRESS!PRODUCTION ALEX#SHARFMAN DIGITAL!IMAGING DAVID#LEE#CHIN PREPRESS!IMAGING/ASSEMBLY PUBLISHED BY FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA NEWS: 212!630!3500; FASHION: 212!630!4432; DISPLAY ADVERTISING: 212!630!4600; CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING: 800!423!3314; INDIVIDUAL SUBSCRIPTIONS AND SINGLE COPY SALES: 800!289!0273; FOREIGN SUBSCRIBERS "OUTSIDE THE U.S.# 818!487!4526, FAX NUMBER: 818!487!4550; GROUP SUBSCRIPTIONS: 286!3951; SUBSCRIPTION ORDERS CAN BE FAXED TO 212!790!1868; PRODUCTION: 212!630!4469; FAIRCHILD OFFICES: LONDON 25 MADDOX STREET, WIS 2QNL, 442!074!937!383; LOS ANGELES 90048: 6300 WILSHIRE BLVD., SUITE 720, 323!965!3400; MILAN 20122: CORSO ITALIA 13, 011!39!02!6558!4201; PARIS 75008: 11 RUE ROYALE, 331!4!451!1300; WASHINGTON 20036: 1050 17TH ST., N.W., SUITE 600 202!496!4975. AG ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED SPRING 2015 A G J E A N S . C O M CollectionS : : Page 8 CollectionS ADVERTISING PAUL#JOWDY# SENIOR!VICE!PRESIDENT$!GROUP!PUBLISHER! PAMELA#FIRESTONE ASSOCIATE!PUBLISHER! RENEE#MOSKOWITZ INTERNATIONAL!FASHION!DIRECTOR$!RMM!MEDIA BRETT#MITCHELL EXECUTIVE!DIRECTOR!OF!INTERNATIONAL!FASHION ARIEL#TENSEN AMERICAN!FASHION!AND!RETAIL!DIRECTOR! CARLY#GRESH BEAUTY!DIRECTOR E&LUXEMEDIA FINE!JEWELRY!AND!WATCH!CATEGORY ALEXANDRA#SMITH ACCOUNT!EXECUTIVE SAMANTHA#HARTJE ACCOUNT!EXECUTIVE REGIONAL/INTERNATIONAL!OFFICES JILL#BIREN WEST!COAST!DIRECTOR$!&'&()*+(,'-& ANNIE#BELFIELD WEST!COAST!SALES!COORDINATOR GUGLIELMO#BAVA INTERNATIONAL!DIRECTOR$!.//(&&/(00+/(.,*/ GIULIA#SQUERI EUROPEAN!ACCOUNT!DIRECTOR$!ITALY$!.//(&)(.'(,''(&&*.' OLGA#KOUZNETSOVA ACCOUNT!DIRECTOR$!ITALY$!.//(&)(.'(,''(&&*.& EMANUELA#ALTIMANI SENIOR!SALES!COORDINATOR$!ITALY MARJORIE#THOMAS EUROPEAN!SALES!REPRESENTATIVE$!.//(&&'0(.&/*(+0/ PASCALE#RAJAC ADVERTISING!ASSISTANT$!FRANCE ACCOUNT!MANAGERS BRITTANY#MUTTERER%#SHANNON#FITZGERALD%#TINA#SCHLISSEL DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE!SERVICES SHANNON#NOBLES MARKETING!DIRECTOR CASSIE#LEVENTHAL DIGITAL!MEDIA!STRATEGIST AMY#KEISER DIGITAL!SALES!PLANNER PRODUCTION KEVIN#HURLEY PRODUCTION!DIRECTOR PROVIDENCE#RAO PRODUCTION!MANAGER JILL#BREINER ASSOCIATE!PRODUCTION!MANAGER CONSUMER!MARKETING ELLEN#DEALY SENIOR!EXECUTIVE!DIRECTOR PEGGY#PYLE CONSUMER!MARKETING!DIRECTOR JANET#MENAKER SENIOR!DIRECTOR$!DIGITAL!MARKETING!&!STRATEGIC!DEVELOPMENT JOHN#CROSS PLANNING!&!OPERATIONS!DIRECTOR RANDI#SEGAL SENIOR!DIRECTOR$!INSTITUTIONAL!SALES SUZANNE#BERARDI SENIOR!ONLINE!MANAGER TAMRA#FEBESH SENIOR!MARKETING!MANAGER LAUREN#BUSCH# ASSOCIATE!MARKETING!MANAGER FAIRCHILD!PUBLISHING!LLC STEPHANIE#GEORGE PRESIDENT!AND!VICE!CHAIRMAN MICHAEL#ATMORE# EDITORIAL!DIRECTOR!OF!FOOTWEAR!NEWS!&!DIRECTOR!OF!BRAND!DEVELOPMENT!! DEVON#BEEMER FINANCE!DIRECTOR RON#WILSON DIRECTOR!OF!EUROPEAN!OPERATIONS ## FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC IS A DIVISION OF PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION JAY#PENSKE CHAIRMAN!&!CEO GERRY#BYRNE VICE!CHAIRMAN PAUL#WOOLNOUGH EXECUTIVE!VICE!PRESIDENT$!BUSINESS!AFFAIRS GEORGE#GROBAR EXECUTIVE!VICE!PRESIDENT$!STRATEGY!AND!OPERATIONS MICHAEL#DAVIS CHIEF!OF!VIDEO!STRATEGY NELSON#ANDERSON
Details
-
File Typepdf
-
Upload Time-
-
Content LanguagesEnglish
-
Upload UserAnonymous/Not logged-in
-
File Pages80 Page
-
File Size-