Thoughts Flow Top Fi05003 Table of Content

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS THOUGHTS FLOW TOP FI05003 TABLE OF CONTENT

METHODOLOGY ...... 3

Symbology ...... 3 Suggested equipment ...... 4 Things you need ...... 5 Pattern pieces ...... 6 Sewing technology ...... 7 How to read instruction ...... 10

SEWING ...... 11

1. Front darts ...... 11 2. Sleeve darts ...... 12 3. Invisible zipper and CB seam ...... 13 4. Side seams ...... 15 5. Sleeve ...... 17 6. Lining front darts ...... 20 7. Attach facing to the front and back lining ...... 21 8. Lining side seam ...... 24 9. Sleeves facing ...... 25 10. Lining sleeve ...... 26 11. Lining back seam ...... 30 12. Sleeve hemline ...... 33 13. Lining hemline ...... 34 14. Garment and sleeve hemline ...... 35

SEWING SUGGESTIONS ...... 38

Suggestions of the dart sewing ...... 38

GLOSSARY ...... 44

FI05003 Page 2 Table of content METHODOLOGY

SYMBOLOGY

PATTERN MARKINGS

SEWING LINE CUTTING LINE

CENTER LINE FOLD LINE

PLACEMENT LINE GRAINLINE

GATHER STRETCH

BUTTONHOLE BUTTONHOLE

BUTTON PLACEMENT NOTCH

SEAM STRUCTURE

INTERFACING FABRIC

ZIPPER SERGE

CENTER LINE SERGER STITCH

SEWING LINE FOLD LINE

METHODOLOGY FI05003 Page 3 Symbology SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT

Sewing machine Iron Sewing Board Serger

Universal foot Serger foot Overedge foot Invisible zipper foot

Dressmaking Sewing needle for Seam ripper Rotary cutter shears hand stitch

7 3 6

4 2

2 1 1

Thread snips Tailors chalk or Bobbins Ruler soap

3” 4 8

3” 1” 1” 1

1 4 2

1 8

1” 1”

4 1”

8 5”

Tape measure Pins Seam gauge Machine needle

Edge stitching Foot Sewing thread Sleeve Board Safety pin

METHODOLOGY FI05003 Page 4 Suggested equipment THINGS YOU NEED

• Fabric • Sewing thread • Lining • Serger threads • Fusible interfacing • 8” - 10” (20 - 25 cm) Invisible zipper • Sewing needle / Universal

The approximate minimum and maximum amount of fabric

BODY MEASUREMENTS FABRIC 55” (140 cm) LINING 55” (140 cm)

BODY HEIGHT 65” (164 cm) N I BUST 33” (84 cm) 47” (118 cm) 33” (85 cm) M HIP 36” (91 cm)

BODY HEIGHT 73” (185 cm) X

A BUST 59” (150 cm) 77” (196 cm) 59” (150 cm) M HIP 60” (152 cm)

Recommended fabrics:

FABRIC TYPE WEIGHT / oz (g) ELASTANE %

Woven Medium 0-2 % Tencel Twill /6oz-8oz (204g - 272g)/ Neoprene Medium Heavy Suiting /8oz-10oz (272g - 339g)/

Linen Blends Sweatshirt

METHODOLOGY FI05003 Page 5 Things you need PATTERN PIECES

F D E B C G H

EB EA DA DB A I J

AA CA BA

TOP FABRIC PIECES Front A Back Right B C D Sleeve Right E Front Facing AA Back Facing Right BA Back Facing CA DA Front Sleeve Facing Right EA DB Back Sleeve Facing Right EB

TOP LINING PIECES Front F G Back Right H Sleeve Right I J

the width of the fabric, you will need to divide them and make an additional cut line.

METHODOLOGY FI05003 Page 6 Pattern pieces SEWING TECHNOLOGY

Fabric key

Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of fabric fabric lining lining interfacing interfacing

Interfacing placement on garment

Laying out and cutting fabric

Fabric grainlines: lengthwise; crosswise; bias grains;

METHODOLOGY FI05003 Page 7 Sewing technology =” =”

1. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 2. Place the right side of the fabric facing down on the table. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper.

Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. Mark dart points and matchpoints.

Fuse the interfacing to the fabric: Place the resin side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Press the interfacing to the fabric by using heat, steam and pressure. To fuse, start on one edge, place the iron straight down, lean in, and add pressure for 20 seconds. Check the bonding by trying to peel the interfacing away from one corner of the fabric. The fusing should be secure. Let the fused fabric cool

METHODOLOGY FI05003 Page 8 Sewing technology DB A B A CA D EA AA EB

Place the patterns on a single layer of the fabric + interfacing. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. Cut the fabric.

METHODOLOGY FI05003 Page 9 Sewing technology HOW TO READ INSTRUCTION

SERGE illustration

action

Finishing the side seams.

PLACE

seam structure

Place and pin the side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges.

SEW

Sew the side seams.

instruction

METHODOLOGY FI05003 Page 10 How to read instruction

BY PURCHASING A SEWING PATTERN,

YOU GET A COMPREHENSIVE SEWING

AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION

Thank you, Fayma Team