Jenny Variation C: Skirt with Suspenders By: Burdastyle
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How Pick the Right Needle By: Burdastyle
How Pick the Right Needle By: BurdaStyle http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/how-pick-the-right-needle Sewing machine needles are the workhorses of sewing. Depending on how fast you sew, a needle may pass through the fabric many hundreds of times in an hour. Understanding the needle is essential for trouble-free sewing and good results. In this How To we will learn all about needles, their different parts, the different sizing systems, and how to make them work for you, not against you. Knowledge is power!! Step 1 Shank: The Shank is the long part of the needle. The diameter of the shank affects how thick of a hole it makes in the fabric and how big the eye of the needle can be, and thus how thick the thread can be. Ideally, the eye of the needle is just big enough for the thread. Too much extra room in the eye causes extra wear and tear on the thread. Thicker threads and thicker fabrics, obviously, require thicker needles. Besides diameter, flexibility is another important factor. More rigid fabrics, 1Howlike denim, need more rigid needles. Step 2 Needle point: Before synthetic knits were invented, machine needles were sharp. Sharp needles snag or run knit fabric, so more rounded, or 'Ballpoint' needles were invented. 'Universal' needles are a compromise between 'Sharps' and 'Ballpoint' needles; that is, Universal needles can be used on a wider array of fabrics. However, it is best to choose the best needle for each individual project. Ideally, you should choose a new needle each time you start a new project. -
International Journal of Textile Science and Engineering Chowdhary U
International Journal of Textile Science and Engineering Chowdhary U. Int J Text Sci Eng 3: 125. Review Article DOI: 10.29011/IJTSE-125/100025 Impact of Interfacings and Lining on Breaking Strength, Elongation and Duration of the Test for Knitted Wool Usha Chowdhary* Department of Human Environmental Studies Fashion Merchandising and Design, Central Michigan University, Mount Pleasant, Mich- igan, USA *Corresponding author: Usha Chowdhary, Department of Human Environmental Studies Fashion Merchandising and Design, Central Michigan University, Mount Pleasant, Michigan, USA. Email: [email protected] Citation: Chowdhary U (2019) Impact of Interfacings and Lining on Breaking Strength, Elongation and Duration of the Test for Knitted Wool. Int J Text Sci Eng 3: 125. DOI: 10.29011/IJTSE-125/100025 Received Date: March 5, 2019; Accepted Date: March 20, 2019; Published Date: March 29, 2019 Abstract The study examined breaking strength, elongation and time at break for 100% medium weight knitted wool with in- terfacings and lining. Several ASTM standards were used to measure structural and performance attributes. Fabric strength, elongation, and time taken to rupture for fabric exclusively and with interfacings and lining attached were measured for eight relationships. Hypotheses were tested using T-test analysis. Confidence level was established at 95%. Results revealed that majority of the hypotheses were accepted. Results for fusible and non-fusible interfacings varied. Adding fusible interfacing did not enhance strength in the lengthwise direction. Fusible and non-fusible interfacings did not differ for elongation. It took longer for fabric to break in lengthwise than the crosswise direction. Future research is needed to confirm the findings of this study for various fabrics, seam types, stitch types, fabric construction and fiber contents. -
Multifunctional Blanket Stitch By: Magdamagda
Multifunctional Blanket Stitch By: magdamagda http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/multifunctional-blanket-stitch What better time for hand sewing revelations than now when my sewing machine is in service? sigh I have been thinking about this for some time – one type of hand stitch that comes in handy in so many situations! I’ll point out the ones I thought about, new ideas are welcome! Known as the “blanket stitch” it can back up your sewing machine in some situations or even go where no sewing machine has gone before!!!! First this is how it’s done: I prefer to stitch right to left. Bring the thread to front at desired distance from the edge ( about 2 mm for buttonholes, 4-5 mm for serging). Take the thread over the edge of the cloth and pull the needle back to front through the same point. Make a loop around this thread segment at the cloth edge level. At some distance from the first “entry point” (3-4 mm for serging) and at the same distance from the edge thrust the needle from front to back and pull the needle through the loop formed by the remaining thread. You can help yourself by keeping the thread over the index finger of the left hand while doing so. Repeat, repeat, repeat..:) Tip: If you are serging, make sure not to pull the thread too much and cause the fabric to pluck. If you’re working on a button hole or doing some embroidery work pull the thread just right so that the thread remains straight: not too loose, not too tight:) Tip-tip:) : If the thread gets twisted on itself , you can straighten it out by sliding the needle close to the fabric and running the thread through your fingers from the fixed end towards the loose end (a few times) Note: Whatever you plan to use this stitch for, you’ll find it ideal when dealing with curved lines! A video to catch the basic move: Step 1 — [serging] Multifunctional Blanket Stitch 1 Use it for: 1) Serging (overcasting the raw edges of a fabric to prevent unraveling).. -
Osman Tie By: Burdastyle
Osman Tie By: burdastyle http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/osman-tie The Osman tie is the perfect Valentine’s Day gift for you or your loved one! Make it your business to get tied up in this creation! 1 Materials pattern, 1 yard silk, tie interfacing or comparable material, thread, needle Step 1 Like all of our patterns, this one uses 5/8’’ seam allowances. I marked the seams that need to be machine stitched with dotted lines. Now some definitions: We will refer to the ‘wide end’ and ‘narrow end’ of the tie. The ‘tipping’ is sewed to the ends of tie, to finish it. We could think of it as a facing or lining. The ‘keeper’ is the tube behind the wide end of the tie that keeps the narrow end in place when the tie is tied around the neck. ‘Tie interfacing’ is often made of two layers of woven wool, is slightly soft and springy but also firm. It runs the length of the tie and the silk is basically folded around it and stitched together around it. Unlike other interfacings, tie interfacing isn’t glued and/or attached to the self in any way. Proper tie interfacing is not particularly easy to come by, and, depending on the width of the fabric, you need between 1 yard and 1 3/4 yard to get a 57" bias cut. It’s also not cheap (we paid $25 for a yard of imported tie interfacing). We have a few suggestions for a comparable replacement. To start with, take apart an old (preferably high quality) tie and see what’s inside. -
Aic Paintings Specialty Group Postprints
1991 AIC PAINTINGS SPECIALTY GROUP POSTPRINTS Papers presented at the Nineteenth Annual Meeting of the American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works Albuquerque, New Mexico Saturday, June 8,1991. Compiled by Chris Stavroudis The Post-Prints of the Paintings Specialty Group: 1991 is published by the Paintings Specialty Group (PSG) of the American Institute for Conservation of Historical and Artistic Works (AIC). These papers have not been edited and are published as received. Responsibility for the methods and/or materials described herein rests solely with the contributors and these should not be considered official statements of the Paintings Specialty Group or the American Institute for Conservation. The Paintings Specialty Group is an approved division of the American Institute for Conservation of Historical and Artistic Works (AIC) but does not necessarily represent AIC policies or opinions. The Post-Prints of the Paintings Specialty Group: 1991 is distributed to members of the Paintings Specialty Group. Additional copies may be purchased from the American Institute for Conservation of Historical and Artistic Works; 1400 16th Street N.W., Suite 340; Washington, DC 20036. Volume designed on Macintosh using QuarkXPress 3.0 by Lark London Stavroudis. Text printed on Cross Pointe 60 lb. book, an acid-free, recycled paper (50% recycled content, 10% post-consumer waste). Printing and adhesive binding by the Mennonite Publishing House, Scottdale, Pennsylvania. TABLE OF CONTENT S Erastus Salisbury Field, American Folk Painter: 4 His Changing Style And Changing Techniques Michael L. Heslip and James S. Martin The Use of Infra-red Vidicon and Image Digitizing Software in 4 Examining 20th-century Works of Art James Coddington Paintings On Paper: Collaboration Between Paper 11 and Paintings Conservators Daria Keynan and Carol Weingarten Standard Materials for Analysis of Binding Media and 23 GCI Binding Media Library Dusan C. -
Franzi- By: Burdastyle
Franzi- By: burdastyle http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/franzi--2 The pantsuit you always needed. This are the instructions for the vest. Step 1 PATTERN Glencheck: 1 Middle Front Piece 2x 4 Side Back Piece 2x 5 Flap 2x 6 Latch 2x Pepita: 2 Side Back Piece 2x 3 Middle Back Piece 2x 1 Sizes 34,36,38, 40,42 Length in Back: About 40 cm (about 15.74 inches) Lining 1 Middle Front Piece 2x 2 Side Front Piece 2x 3 Middle Back Piece 2x 4 Side Back Piece 2x 5 Flap 2x Fabric needed Glencheck, 150 cm (about 59 inches) wide, 0.60 meters (about 23.62 inches) long for all sizes Pepita, 150 cm (about 59 inches) wide, 0.50 meters (about 19.68 inches) long Jacquard for lining, 140 cm (about 55.11 inches) wide, 0.60 meters (about 23.62 inches) long 0.90 meters (about 35.43 inches) spunbond 6 Buttons I Belt Buckle, width 2.7 cm (about 1.06 inches) For the tie: fabric strip, 10 cm (about 3.93 inches) wide, 140 cm (about 55.11 inches) long Step 2 The patterns can be printed out at the copy shop. If you decide to print them at home, follow the instructions: Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints: The patterns are printed out on 28 sheets with a thin frame. Wait until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the sheets so that they fit together (see additional page with the overview of the prints). Fold the single sheets on the upper and right edge along the thin frame lines. -
Elegant Table Runner H
Elegant Table Runner Designed By Patty Peterson Featuring Kreinik Metallic Machine Sewing Threads Finished size 11.5" X 40.75" ave you ever wondered how you can use the decorative stitches on H your sewing machine? Well here’s a quick and easy project where you can combine your machine’s decorative stitches with beautiful metallic threads and make an absolutely elegant table accessory. Whether you make it for your own home or as a gift, this table runner project will help you see the possibilities of those decorative machine stitches in a whole new light! ! SUPPLY LIST: 1.!!! Kreinik Metallic Machine Sewing Threads (34 colors available). This project uses:! Fine Twist threads: 0001 SILVER, 0002 PEWTER, 0003 WHITE GOLD, 0006 ANTIQUE DK GOLD 2.!!! Kreinik Silver Metallized Gimp:! 0030 SILVER, 0032 ANTIQUE GOLD, 0033 BRASSY GOLD! 3.!!! Size 14 Topstitch needle 4.!!! Sewing or embroidery machine/combination 5.!!! Walking foot or dual feed foot to construct table runner 6.!!! Tear-away stabilizer (depending on your hoop size) 7.!!! Bobbin thread 8.!!! Scissors 9.!!! Kreinik Custom Corder!™ 10. !If you plan on embroidering out the stitches in your embroidery hoop you will need 3/4 yard of Kona Bay, Black cotton fabric !! 11. If you are sewing the decorative stitches you will need!1/2 yard Kona Bay, Black cotton fabric 12.! Background fabric 13" x 44" (WOF) width of fabric (our model uses light weight patterned nylon)! 13.! Backing fabric: Kona Bay, Black cotton 13" X 44" (WOF) 14. !Extra fabric to sew test stitches, such as a couple of 6" x 6" squares 15. -
Info/How to Examine an Antique Painting.Pdf
How to Examine an Antique Painting by Peter Kostoulakos Before we can talk about the examination process, an overview of how to handle an oil painting is necessary to prevent damage to the work and liability for the appraiser. The checklist below is essential for beginning appraisers to form a methodical approach to examining art in the field without heavy, expensive equipment. Although the information may seem elementary for seasoned appraisers, it can be considered a review with a few tips to organize your observational skills. When inspecting an antique painting, as with any antique, a detailed on the spot, examination should take place. A small checklist covering composition, support, paint layers, varnish, and frame is necessary. Also, a few tools such as a UV lamp, magnifiers, camera, soft brush, cotton swabs, and tape measure are needed. A "behind the scenes" investigation can tell you a great deal about the painting. The name of the artist, title of the painting, canvas maker, date of canvas and stretcher, exhibitions and former owners are some of the things that may be revealed upon close examination. Document your examination with notes and plenty of photographs. Handling Art Older paintings should be thought of as delicate babies. We need to think about the consequences before we pick one up. To prevent acidic oil from our skin to be transferred to paintings and frames, we must cover our hands with gloves. Museum workers have told me that they feel insecure using white, cotton gloves because their grip becomes slippery. I tried the ceremonial gloves used in the military to grip rifles while performing. -
Tailoring and Dressm King 5 LINING A. SKIRT Or DRESS Today's Fashions
tailoring and dressm king 5 LINING a. SKIRT or DRESS Today’s fashions and fabrics often call for linings. This raises questions among the home seamstresses regarding types of lining and how to attach these to the garment. Lining serves many purposes. It: 0 gives a professional 100k and adds quality 0 adds body and/or opacity to lightweight or thin fabric 0 gives roundness to structural lines where needed 0 prevents sagging, stretch or “sitting " out” in straight skirts (helps to preserve shape of garment) ' 0 gives longer service to the garment 0 helps to eliminate wrinkles A distinCtion should be made among four sometimes confusing terms: 1. Lining refers to a material that partially or entirely covers the inside of a garment. It is assembled separately as though it were a second garment. It finishes the wrong side of the garment as well as serving the purposes listed C above. For better fit and more strength it should be cut on the same grain as the outer fabric. 2. Underlining is a material which is cut in the shape of the garment pieces. The underlining sections are staystitched to- the corresponding outer fabric sections before any seams are joined. This is especially good for loosely woven or thin fabrics. This treatment is usually called “double fabric con- struction.” It is also called backing or underlay. 3. Interlining ,is usually thought of as giving warmth to a coat as well as giving some shape. The interlining is cut' to match the garment pieces and is placed between the lining and the outer fabric. -
Sleeveless Blouse Tutorial by Marianne Jeffrey Adventurousquilter.Blogspot.Com
Sleeveless Blouse Tutorial By Marianne Jeffrey Adventurousquilter.blogspot.com #sleevelessblousebyAQ Quick and easy to make! 1 Fabric Requirements This blouse tutorial has been written to suit any size; you take vital measurements and decide from several options offered. You will need up to: 2 yards of cotton fabric It is highly recommended you use cotton sateen as it drapes well. However you could use quilting cotton. I have found that a high quality yet lighter & softer quilting cotton such as some of those manufactured by Art Gallery Fabrics or M & S Textiles Australia drape well for use in cotton clothing. Harmony Art Organic Design has fabulous organic cotton sateen, you can buy it here: https://organiccottonplus.com/collections/prints-harmony-art Spoonflower also has a cotton sateen available in their range and offers a multitude delightful fabric designs by indie designers: https://www.spoonflower.com/ Rayon is another fabric option that drapes well but be sure to wash and dry before making the blouse to preshrink! Lightweight linen is also a great option or a linen/rayon blend! In dressmaking it is common for sewists to make a “wearable muslin” In simple terms a “muslin” involves making a ‘test’ garment from cheap fabric such as muslin to perfect the garment size, cut etc before using high quality fabrics for the final garment. A “wearable muslin” is made from cheaper quality fabric than your final garment, so that it is a wearable piece of clothing once it is complete! If you choose to do this you can shop the clearance aisle of large retailers such as Joann, Hobby Lobby, Walmart, Spotlight etc to buy cheap yardage for your test garment. -
Simplified Sewing: Hems
South Dakota State University Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange SDSU Extension Fact Sheets SDSU Extension 1964 Simplified Sewing: Hems Cooperative Extension South Dakota State University Follow this and additional works at: https://openprairie.sdstate.edu/extension_fact Recommended Citation South Dakota State University, Cooperative Extension, "Simplified Sewing: Hems" (1964). SDSU Extension Fact Sheets. 865. https://openprairie.sdstate.edu/extension_fact/865 This Fact Sheet is brought to you for free and open access by the SDSU Extension at Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange. It has been accepted for inclusion in SDSU Extension Fact Sheets by an authorized administrator of Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange. For more information, please contact [email protected]. .. ... -~--- - --v · . --,-.-.- , -. ·. ..•, .. ·'··· .••,.,. - .t:\. --(. ......., • ... ·\•i• ....,.,•-•1•,··...- .,.. "\' ·,- • • • -:\. -: ·):.~\:,..,:}:,:.·,:,..,:;:,:.~:,-:-,:.0:.- ·,~\:,.!;;;; ··:,:.\!.t:,-;..:,t;.,:,:,:.i:1:,:.'.:.•; .-·F_:,~::::_:.~:~~~~~;.:::z~:;:'.·---~-~;:~~L ::·.1~~~~1::.:;.:_;~~: File Copy FS244 THE l-lE~I of your dress can have the "professional - Wearer should stand in a natural position with look" or the "homemade look." In general, the best arms at sides and weight on both feet. hem is the least conspicuous, and every step in making a hem is planned with this in mind There are several methods of marking a hem. You may use any one of these: The professional touch is recognize-cl by the follow- ing characteristics: Various types of chalk markers or pin markers - Inconspicuous from the right side Yardstick - Even distance from the floor Tailor's square. - Wide enough for good proportion and to gi\.re With some of these you can mark enough weight to hang well your own hem; others require a - Even in width help«. -
Taking Shape DARTS ADD SHAPE TURNING a FLAT PIECE of FABRIC INTO a THREE-DIMENSIONAL FORM to MATCH the CONTOURS of the BODY LINDA TURNER GRIEPENTROG
Techniques Taking Shape DARTS ADD SHAPE TURNING A FLAT PIECE OF FABRIC INTO A THREE-DIMENSIONAL FORM TO MATCH THE CONTOURS OF THE BODY LINDA TURNER GRIEPENTROG ustline, hip, waistline to tummy, elbow and shoulder. Darts can be horizontal, vertical or anywhere in between, straight or curved, but the stitching principles are the same. BThe goal of quality dart stitching is smooth, pucker-free points that don’t call attention to themselves. SHAPING A single-point dart is shaped like a triangle, and when stitched it takes a wedge of fabric out of the garment allowing for controlled fullness at the point. A single dart may be on the lengthwise fabric grain, angled or slightly curved. (1) A double-point or contour dart is diamond or rugby ball shaped, and is used to shape the waistline, leaving fullness at both ends for the bust and hip. (2) A French dart is a curved shape from the garment side seam to the bustline. This dart has cut edges joined like a seam. (3) V9082 Vintage Vogue, 1960. Misses’ A5(6-8-10-12-14) E5(14-16-18-20-22). Sew Rating: Average. Price code Orange. Illustrations: Theresa O’Connell Theresa Illustrations: 1 2 3 26 SEW TODAY May/June 2019 MARKING to anchor the stitches. Stitch (7) and stitch toward the point, Darts are indicated on the along the line, removing the A third technique for dart then repeat for the other pattern tissue by either solid pins as you get to them. Taper point, slightly overlapping or dashed lines and a dot the stitching to the point the beginning stitching lines at the point.