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The Use of Commodity Bags in Garment Construction Jennifer Lynn Banning Louisiana State University and Agricultural and Mechanical College, [email protected]

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The Use of Commodity Bags in Garment Construction Jennifer Lynn Banning Louisiana State University and Agricultural and Mechanical College, Jlynnbanning@Yahoo.Com Louisiana State University LSU Digital Commons LSU Doctoral Dissertations Graduate School 2005 Feed sack fashions in South Louisiana, 1949-1968: the use of commodity bags in garment construction Jennifer Lynn Banning Louisiana State University and Agricultural and Mechanical College, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_dissertations Part of the Human Ecology Commons Recommended Citation Banning, Jennifer Lynn, "Feed sack fashions in South Louisiana, 1949-1968: the use of commodity bags in garment construction" (2005). LSU Doctoral Dissertations. 2231. https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_dissertations/2231 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at LSU Digital Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in LSU Doctoral Dissertations by an authorized graduate school editor of LSU Digital Commons. For more information, please [email protected]. FEED SACK FASHIONS IN SOUTH LOUISIANA, 1949-1968: THE USE OF COMMODITY BAGS IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION A Dissertation Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of the Louisiana State University and Agricultural and Mechanical College in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in The School of Human Ecology By Jennifer Lynn Banning B.A., Southern Illinois University at Carbondale, 1997 August 2005 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I wish to express sincere thanks to my major professor, Dr. Jenna Tedrick Kuttruff for her guidance and patience throughout the research process. The wisdom and experience she shared helped me to navigate the inevitable research challenges that arose. Her direction was invaluable and helped me to grow as a professional, and her willingness to sacrifice much of her own time to help polish my research ideas and writing will long be remembered. I also wish to thank the other members of my dissertation committee, Drs. M.E. Betsy Garrison, Barry Keim, Haesun Park, and Charles Shindo for their interest, insightful suggestions, and advice. Their contributions added immensely to this research. The participation of and assistance from Dr. Kathleen Rees, a committee member during the proposal stage of this research, is equally appreciated. Special thanks are extended to The Louisiana State University Textile and Costume Museum for access to the collection studied and Mrs. Pamela Rabalais, who co-curated with me the exhibition based on this research. The enthusiasm and assistance of Mrs. Rabalais was instrumental in making this research accessible to non-academics. Heartfelt thanks are owed to Mrs. Rita Grant and Mrs. Leah Shaffer, daughters of Mrs. Rosa Keller Aucoin. Their donations to the LSU Textile and Costume Museum and subsequent involvement in this research enhanced the findings and interpretation in ways I cannot measure. Finally, I would like to thank family members and friends for their support as this research was completed. Above all, I wish to thank my husband for his unwavering dedication, careful eye for detail, and listening ear. His encouragement and constant support made it possible for me to complete my graduate degree. This dissertation is dedicated to him, with my deepest gratitude. ii TABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS…………………………………………………………...ii LIST OF TABLES…………………………………………………………………….v LIST OF FIGURES…………………………………………………………………...vi ABSTRACT…………………………………………………………………………..ix CHAPTER ONE – INTRODUCTION……………………………………………………1 Significance of the Study …………………………………………….7 Research Objectives ………………………………………………….8 Assumptions…………………………………………………………..9 Delimitations …………………………………………………………9 TWO - REVIEW OF LITERATURE ……………………………………….11 Commodity Bag Background ……………………………………….11 Commodity Bag History……………………………………..11 Commodity Bag Construction and Fabrication ……………..14 Commodity Bag Marketing …………………………………17 Commodity Bag Recycling …………………………………18 Uses in Quilts ……………………………………………….20 Uses in Garment Construction ………………………………22 History ………………………………………………………………23 Southern United States: 1949-1968 …………………………23 Women’s Fashions: 1949-1968 ……………………………..24 Review of Methods Used ……………………………………………27 Study of Dress ……………………………………………….28 Material Culture Study………………………………………29 Historical Analysis ………………………………………….33 THREE – METHODOLOGY ………………………………………………35 Study One: Material Culture Study………………………………….35 Derivation of Research Objectives and Questions…………..38 Units of Analysis ……………………………………………38 Selection of Sample …………………………………………41 Instrumentation ………………………………………………41 Data Collection……………………………………………….49 Limitations……………………………………………………49 iii Study Two: Historical Analysis………………………………………49 Derivation of Research Objective and Questions ……………51 Units of Analysis …………………………………………….51 Selection of Sample ………………………………………….55 Instrumentation……………………………………………….56 Data Collection ………………………………………………58 Limitations ……………………………………………………58 FOUR - PRESENTATION OF FINDINGS…………………………………60 Study One: Material Culture Study…………………………………..60 Identification of Commodity Bag Garments…………………60 Study Two: Historical Analysis……………………………………..132 Findings of Good Housekeeping Magazines………………..132 FIVE – INTERPRETATION OF FINDINGS………………………………147 Comparison of Study One and Study Two………………………….147 Evaluation of Commodity Bag Garments……………………148 Cultural Analysis of Commodity Bag Garments…………….152 Interpretation of Commodity Bag Garments…………………158 SIX - SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION …………………………………..163 REFERENCES ………………………………………………………………………169 APPENDIX A- CONSENT FORM……………………………………………………….175 B- COMMODITY BAG GARMENT ANALYSIS INSTRUMENT……….177 C- METHODS OF ATTRIBUTE DETERMINATION: COMMODITY BAG GARMENT ANALYSIS INSTRUMENT...……………..………..187 D- COMMODITY BAG GARMENT ANALYSIS DATA..………………..210 E- HSITORICAL ANALYSIS CODE SHEET..…………………………….225 F- “CONVERTING COMMODITY BAGS: RECYCLING CIRCA 1940” MUSEUM EXHIBITION BROCHURE………………………………….227 VITA ………………………………………………………………………………....232 iv LIST OF TABLES 1. Patterns Used to Construct Commodity Bag Garments……………………………..40 2. Frequency and Distribution of Dress Styles by Garment Group…………………….81 3. Frequency and Distribution of Blouse and Jacket Styles by Garment Group……….82 4. Frequency and Distribution of Garment Closure Location by Garment Group……..84 5. Frequency and Distribution of Garment Closures by Garment Group………………85 6. Frequency and Distribution of Garment Structural Embellishments by Garment Group………………………………………………………………………87 7. Frequency and Distribution of Garment Surface Embellishments by Garment Group………………………………………………………………………90 8. Frequency and Distribution of Garment Length by Garment Group ……………….91 9. Frequency and Distribution of Neckline Shape by Garment Group………………...93 10. Frequency and Distribution of Neckline Location by Garment Group………………94 11. Frequency and Distribution of Collar Style by Garment Group……………………..95 12. Frequency and Distribution of Sleeve Length by Garment Group…………………..98 13. Frequency and Distribution of Seam Finishes by Garment Group…………………104 14. Frequency and Distribution of Shaping and Fullness Control by Garment Group…107 15. Frequency and Distribution of Hem Techniques by Garment Group ………………109 v LIST OF FIGURES 1. Joseph and Rosa Aucoin, c. 1960s…………………………………………………….2 2. Examples illustrating where Mrs. Aucoin purchased her patterns. …………………..6 3. Relationship between material culture study properties and operations in Study One...…………………………………………………………………………..36 4. Material Culture Study Model…………….…………………………………………37 5. Relationship Between Study One and Study Two..………………………………….50 6. Garment number 1, rounded collar dress…………………………………………….61 7. Garment number 2, rounded collar dress…………………………………………….61 8. Garment number 3, rounded collar dress…………………………………………….62 9. Garment number 4, rounded collar dress…………………………………………….62 10. Garment number 5, rounded collar dress…………………………………………….63 11. Garment number 6, rounded collar dress…………………………………………….63 12. Garment number 7, v-neck with keyhole dress………………………………………64 13. Garment number 8, v-neck with keyhole dress……………………………………....64 14. Garment number 9, v-neck with keyhole dress………………………………………65 15. Garment number 10, pointed collar dress……………………………………………65 16. Garment number 11, pointed collar dress……………………………………………66 17. Garment number 12, v-neck dress……………………………………………………66 18. Garment number 13, v-neck dress……………………………………………………67 19. Garment number 14, other dress style………………………………………………..67 20. Garment number 15, other dress style………………………………………………..68 21. Garment number 16, other dress style……………………………………………….68 22. Garment number 17, other dress style……………………………………………….69 vi 23. Garment number 18, other dress style……………………………………………….69 24. Garment number 19, other dress style……………………………………………….70 25. Garment number 20, other dress style……………………………………………….70 26. Garment number 21, other dress style……………………………………………….71 27. Garment number 22, other dress style……………………………………………….71 28. Garment number 23, other dress style……………………………………………….72 29. Garment number 24, blouse………………………………………………………….72 30. Garment number 25, blouse………………………………………………………….73 31. Garment number 26, jacket…………………………………………………………..73 32. Garment number 27, jacket…………………………………………………………..74 33. Garment number 28, blouse………………………………………………………….74 34. Garment number 29, blouse………………………………………………………….75 35. Garment number 30, jacket…………………………………………………………..75 36. Garment number 31, blouse………………………………………………………….76 37. Garment numbers 32 and 33, blouse and skirt……………………………………….76 38. Garment number 34, skirt…………………………………………………………….77 39. Garment number 35,
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