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Lining with a Pleated Finish Netting

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Lining with a Pleated Finish Netting Netting Distinctive features: Netting U t n e d n Netting is barely a fabric at all. Created by knotting, ■ Nylon or polyester monofilament yarns: e g rsi in de iliz knitting, twisting, or fusing yarns together to create These yarns create very stiff netting fabrics, showing stab “holes,” the fabric is mostly air, framed by yarns. The though permanent resins are sometimes applied result is a matrix of geometric-shaped holes over too. Netting is often used to create volume under the surface of the fabric. other garments, lifting the surface fabric away Distinctive features: from the body to produce expansive silhouettes. Lining with a Linings with a pleated finish This stiff netting is sometimes used as the base etting was first developed for fishing, creating an efficient cloth on which to embroider or appliqué other pleated finish method for catching multiple fish at the same time. Netting types of fabric trims. ■ Plain square weave, twill, or satin: Whichever Nhas morphed into an extremely versatile fabric, with varying ■ you are using, when pleated, simple lining hole size, used to create a mood with a veil or drama with a full Finer yarns, smaller holes: Soft, somewhat Linings are not intended to add weight or fabrics will all be transformed into texturally underskirt. Nettings are described by the shape of the hole and the drapey netting is produced using finer yarns and small hole sizes. These lightweight fabrics tear thickness to a garment, because they use interesting surfaces. number of holes (measured per inch/cm, in a straight line plus 45- easily, so they are generally used in designs that ■ Polyester fiber content: Using polyester fiber degree diagonal line). When asking for a netting, always mention smooth, simple filament yarns—the smooth don’t require strength. Known as tulle and illusion content—at least 60% (though a higher these two points, as well as the hand of the fabric. lining surface helps the design “glide” over (tulle hole size is slightly larger than illusion hole percentage is recommended)— will help keep the Netting can be produced in varying sizes, drape, and hand. It is the wearer’s other garments. This pleated size) these textiles are never called netting. Illusion fabric hand soft. sometimes used as an interlining for sheer fabrics to create sheer finish keeps the “glide” properties, while collars and cuffs. Small hole size, soft drape, and soft hand fabrics is most often used for bridal veils, and tulle is used ■ Using ribbed weaves: Depending on the weave adding volume. are used for bridal veils, overskirts, elegant trims, and edging. Large for overskirts, ruffles, and other detail trim. A used, ribbed weaves like taffeta, faille, or even hole size, poor drape, and stiff hand fabrics are used for special netting, produced with small dots ottoman, will create volume simply by being ssey Miyake, collaborating with textile artist understructure to create wide silhouettes or garments that stand embroidered or flock printed onto the netting is heated under pressure to form shapes that will Junichi Arai, created more sophisticated uses away from the body. Most nettings today are produced on a called “point d’esprit.” require very little additional Ifor simple lining fabric. Using a balanced plain bobbinet or a special warp knitting machine. reinforcement to maintain the weave (also known as a square weave) lining with new structure. a 100% polyester content (for its thermoplastic characteristic, and retaining its softness after heat- Left: Layers of textured paper are used >> See also: Netting in the Ornament chapter, page 274. setting), they adapted the traditional fabric as a “structure template” for the lining fabric to form around. Standard nylon netting finishing technique of texturizing a flat fabric The mesh fabric shown here Above: Intricate surface into interesting voluminous textures. reveals the matrix of geometric- expansive pleated First, the garment is washed, then a special shaped holes. Nylon or polyester effects are possible. Strengths Below: Edges are heat-sensitive fabric is placed behind the garment. filament net sometimes left raw Using water-soluble surgical thread, patterns of ■ Lightweight Used for underskirts on garments that stitches are sewn onto the garment surface, ■ Very elastic for a close fit designed with full use textiles treated stitching the special fabric to the garment’s without fitting darts and seams. gathers in tiered layers in this way. reverse side. Next, the garment is baked, usually at as a dependable way Interesting visual ■ Can accept many surface stitching designs. effects are achieved 250-degrees Fahrenheit. The special, heat-sensitive to maintain a full skirt when the fabric is fabric on the garment’s reverse side begins to ■ No toxic chemicals are used. silhouette. stretched. shrink, causing the garment to draw up into ■ Polyester fiber remains soft after heat setting. Strengths Weaknesses puckers and exaggerate the stitching pattern. The ■ Large variety of hole sizes and ■ Poor tensile strength; will polyester fabric, which has a higher resistance to Point d’esprit heat than the shrinking backing fabric, will soften Weaknesses shapes from which to choose. tear easily (finer the yarn the more easily torn). This style of netting is slightly. When the garment assembly is removed ■ Very resilient. ■ Exposure to heat can release pleating. especially popular with from the heat and cooled, it is washed. During ■ Difficult to sew in seams, ■ Easy to clean. millinery design. this process, the surgical thread dissolves, ■ Polyester is a nonabsorbent fiber, so can be due to lack of sewing releasing the shrunk backing and the new, uncomfortable when worn. ■ Easy to maintain loft-doesn’t surface (it’s mostly air). compact easily. textured garment emerges. ■ Requires polyester fiber content—at least 55–60% polyester. ■ Lightweight, airy, open >> See also: For basic information on lining construction. fabrics, see Fluidity chapter, page 75. • • • Expansion Lining with a pleated finish Netting 188• • 189 • •.
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