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BUYINGGUIDE APRIL2021

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2 ARGENTINA 25 AUSTRALIA 28 CALIFORNIA 52 OREGON 58 WASHINGTON 62 IDAHO 62 VIRGINIA 63 NEW YORK 67 OTHER AMERICA 67 PORTUGAL 72 SPAIN 76 BORDEAUX 92 SOUTHWEST FRANCE 96 NORTHERN ITALY 99 TUSCANY 105 OTHER ITALY 106 GERMANY 112 GREECE 114 GLOBAL 115 SPIRITS 117 BEER

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on a slightly hot finish. Drink now. Brazos Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

Bodega Rolland 2011 Yacochuya Malbec ARGENTINA 92 (Cafayate). A huge and sappy nose smells Time to stock up smoky and creamy, with soupy dark-berry aromas along with heat and green notes. Like the bouquet, this is full and thick in feel. Saturated blackberry, endoza, where about 80% of Argenti- “We consider 2018 to be very nice, with chocolate, fig and raisin flavors are hot and intense, na’s wine is produced, is not known for more grapes compared with 2017, which had the while the structure of this massive Malbec is heavy overly challenging weather or severe lowest yields in the last 50 years,” said Karim but in no way elegant. Drink through 2024. Deutsch variation. To the contrary, this Mussi, winemaker with Altocedro and several Family Wine and Spirits. —M.S. high-elevationM desert region regularly bene- other labels. “We had a warm and dry season. abv: 16.5% Price: $75 fits from plentiful daytime sun backed by cool Full ripeness came around 10 days early, with a Terrazas de Los Andes 2017 Parcel N°10W Los Andean nights devoid of humidity. great temperature range during the end of the 92 Cerezos Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). Early aro- Yet the harvests of 2014 season, assuring almost perfect mas of latex and Band-Aid yield to ripe plum and through 2016 were anything but phenolic ripeness.” cassis, while this parcel-specific Malbec is drawing normal, with frosts, hail storms, Overall quality has Signs point in the right and scratchy in feel. Herbal blackberry, plum and cassis flavors are short on depth and complexity, rot and mildew, and even an El direction for 2019 as well. proved to be high, while this tastes mildly oaky on a finish with dry, Niño year (2016) with drench- especially among “Both 2018 and 2019 were very rubbing tannins. Drink through 2024. Moët Hen- ing rains yielding that wines from 2018, a good years, with normal yields, nessy USA. —M.S. spanned the gamut of qual- something that is important abv: 14% Price: $100 ity while often falling short of year that saw near- because when yields are too Bodega Polo 2017 Herencia la Palabra Mal- Argentina at its best. perfect growing low, ripeness arrives faster,” 91 bec (Uco Valley). Black cherry and black- Fortunately for fans of conditions. said Sebastián Zuccardi, wine- berry aromas include a hint of vanilla, while this is Argentine wines, those difficult maker at Familia Zuccardi. anchored by juicy acidity. Flavors of oaky vanilla, years are now largely in the rear- The bottom line: Now is a plum and blackberry are convincing but nothing view mirror, replaced by a more familiar and good time to stock up on Argentine wines. Mal- unique for Uco Valley Malbec, while this is easy- going on the finish. Drink through 2022. One Vine welcome batch of wines from 2017, 2018 and becs from 2017 through 2019 are the best they Wines. —M.S. 2019. By and large, the current crop of wines, can be and in full distribution, while other vari- abv: 13.9% Price: $48 led by the country’s signature Malbec, is in top eties (including , Cabernet form. Overall quality has proved to be high, Franc and ) and blends also benefit- Finca La Anita 2017 Malbec (Agrelo). Reedy especially among wines from 2018, a year that ted from excellent conditions. 91 berry aromas are earthy and herbal, with a touch of grassy green. A flush and lively palate is saw near-perfect growing conditions. Cheers! —Michael Schachner full and edgy, while this Malbec tastes of , berry fruits, herbs and peppery spice. Mint and herbal spice flavors are notable on a finish where the fruit evaporates almost immediately. Drink through 2023. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S. MALBEC this remains bold and stout on a heavy finish. Drink abv: 14.5% Price: $50 through 2026. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. 4 Gatos Locos 2018 Malbec (Gualtallary). An abv: 14.5% Price: $80 Kaiken 2018 Ultra Malbec (Mendoza). For full 93 opaque color and aromas of crisply spiced 91 review see page 14. blackberry and smoke form the opening on this fine Argento 2018 Single Finca Agrelo abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Malbec from Gualtallary in the Uco Valley. A con- 92 Organic Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza). Mild centrated palate is anchored by grabby tannins that herbal and gamy notes add character to meaty Luca 2018 Historia de Familia Malbec (Uco should resolve with more bottle age. Toasty black- blackberry and cassis aromas, while this Malbec 91 Valley). An opaque dark-purple color and berry and cassis flavors are backed by chocolaty from an excellent vintage feels full, smooth and aromas of cinnamon, graphite and jammy black- notes, while this feels smooth and doesn’t grind on chewy. Fully ripe and dense blackberry and choco- berry announce a palate that’s medium in intensity. the finish. Enjoy through 2023. Kysela Père et Fils. late flavors finish warm and steady, with concentra- Flavors of light oak, baking spice and blackberry are Editors’ Choice. —M.S. tion and balance. Enjoy now through 2024. Pacific familiar for Argentina, while this magnum of Malbec abv: 14.5% Price: $42 Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. shows smooth tannins and medium depth on the fin- abv: 15% Price: $40 ish. Drink through 2022. Vine Connections. —M.S. Kaiken 2017 Mai The First Malbec (Mendoza). abv: 14% Price: $75/1.5 L 93 A dark color and rich aromas of blackberry, Bodega Furlotti 2013 Finca Adalgisa Malbec graphite, coconutty oak, raisin and saddle leather 92 (Mendoza). Ripe, earthy black fruit aromas Mendoza 2018 Reserve Malbec open this full-bodied Malbec with dry tannins. are balsamic and suggest boozy spice cake. Follow- 91 (Mendoza). Spicy blackberry and dark plum Baked blackberry, prune, chocolate and herbal fla- ing the nose, this Malbec from a very good vintage aromas are balsamic and earthy, with a hint of vors cover the full spectrum of tastes, while is jammy in feel, with thorough ripeness. Prune, raisin, molasses and cassis flavors wrap up quickly Continued on page 22

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander­ ­Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor ­Lauren ­Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams,­ Contributing­ Edi- tors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina­ Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; ­Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Contucci 2016 Mulinvecchio (Vino Nobile di Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean P. Sullivan in ­Washington; and Beer Editor John Le Dôme 2018 Saint-Émilion. A wine that 96 ). Truffle, tilled earth, rose, Holl in New Jersey. 97 celebrates , this comes from camphor and star anise aromas slowly take shape on If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s a parcel on the lower slope of Saint-Émilion. Its the nose of this elegantly structured red. Radiant and initials appear following the note. When no initials appear fol- lowing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more perfumed richness is profound and dense in struc- savory, the bright, focused palate showcases juicy reviewers­ and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tured black fruits. Old vines give concentration and Morello cherry, strawberry compote and ground cin- tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by John Holl. add to the great power behind it all. This is a wine namon before a licorice close. Tightly wound, refined Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its to age; drink from 2026. World’s End LLC. Cellar tannins and fresh acidity keep it balanced and give suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us Selection. —R.V. it an ageworthy structure. Drink 2024–2036. Spe- by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices abv: 14.5% Price: $210 cialty Cellars. Cellar Selection. —K.O. are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. abv: 14% Price: $55 TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; Schramsberg 2012 J. Schram (North Lail 2018 Blueprint Cabernet Sauvignon often good value. Coast). This wonderful wine layers together (Napa Valley). From a range of sites and Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- 97 96 critical circumstances. subtle red fruit, cinnamon, tamarind and savory, expertly blended by Philippe Melka and his team, Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 meaty accents for an extraordinarily complex out- this wine has 5% and spent 18 months points) are not reviewed. come. Mouthfilling and rich in texture but also in French oak, half of it new. Black olive, pencil SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS lively and bright in underlying acidity, it is beau- shaving, sage and cedar provide a savory context Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- tifully balanced and will age well. Best from 2023. against which concentrated black cherry and plum ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price Cellar Selection. —J.G. play. Coffee makes an appearance on the finish. with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible abv: 12.8% Price: $160 Enjoy 2028–2035. Cellar Selection. —V.B. and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled to abv: 14.9% Price: $80 reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less, and are designated Best Buys after surpassing a specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo- cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ contact-us. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast. net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be Penfolds 2018 Bin 704 Cabernet Sauvignon accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our website. 96 (Napa Valley). This is the first vintage of LABELS Three Sticks 2018 Durell Vineyard ­Chardonnay the Australian producer’s foray into Napa Valley. It Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given 97 (Sonoma Coast). This is a tremendously is tightly structured yet supple, bursting in bright the opportunity to submit labels only after the reviews have been bright expression from a famous site. It is exuber- currant and strawberry flavors. Savory components finalized and assigned to a specific issue. Labels are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information ant in tangy lemon, crushed rock and sea spray, with of sage, dried herb and black pepper dot the palate on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax lasting acidity that tapers it all. Offering a beauti- alongside silky tannins and chocolate-laced rich- 866.896.8786; or email [email protected] ful mix of texture and nuanced earthiness, this is a ness. A fresh touch of blood orange arises on the fin- Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at wholly memorable wine. —V.B. ish. Enjoy from 2028–2033. Cellar Selection. —V.B. winemag.com/ratings abv: 14.1% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $70

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Justice 2018 Frontier Beckstoffer Dr. Crane 95 Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). This Theopolis 2018 Estate Grown Petite Sirah Abbott Claim 2017 X Omni Vineyards Char- is an earthy interpretation of this wonderful 96 (Yorkville Highlands). This singular wine 95 donnay (Eola-Amity Hills). Laying claim to from a well-respected site better known for Caber- from Theodora Lee is one of the top expressions top-tier Oregon Chardonnay status, this luscious net Sauvignon. Cedar, dried herb, black olive and of this variety. Arresting aromas of menthol, lav- vineyard selection marries buttered apple, ripe cocoa powder highlight a hearty frame of supple red ender, black pepper and rosemary excite interest papaya and mango fruit to pinpoint accents of barrel fruit, crushed rock and dark chocolate, finishing in on the nose before darkly concentrated black-fruit toast. It’s hedonistic in the best sense, balanced and a bold tannic structure. —V.B. flavors hit the palate. Firm tannins and a lip- bold, big but precise and thoroughly delicious. —P.G. abv: 15.9% Price: $225 smacking, appetizing textural bite beautifully play abv: 13% Price: $115 off the dramatic flavors. Not for the faint of heart, this medium- to full-bodied wine will be best from 2023–2030. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

Justin 2016 Focus (Paso Robles). This Bee Hunter 2016 Docker Hill Vineyard 95 is a booming, powerful bottling, starting 95 (Mendocino). Alluring black- with lush and hearty aromas of black fruit, roasted cherry and cinnamon aromas lead to generous, game and grilled fig. The palate is dense and vis- ­concentrated, lip-smacking flavors in this superb, cous, with dark boysenberry and more roasted fig Three Sticks 2018 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir full-bodied and well-balanced wine. The depth and flavors as well as hints of violet and lavender. But, 96 (Sonoma Coast). This estate wine brings focus of the fruit flavors are impressive, riding a rich it’s the savory side of black pepper and rich grilled together notes of forest, crushed rock and spiced texture that enhances­ the lingering finish.Editors’ meat that carry the weight. —M.K. dark cherry, focused by a mineral-driven undertone. Choice. —J.G. abv: 16% Price: $110 It shows understated power and leans graceful in abv: 14.5% Price: $60 style, built by supple, balanced tannins that enclose it all. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $70

Chappellet 2017 Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sau- Justin 2016 Isosceles Reserve (Paso Robles). Three Sticks 2018 William James Vineyard 95 vignon (Napa Valley). From the producer’s 95 Clean lines of blackberry jam, charred toast 96 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). From a mountainous estate, this is blended with 10% Petit and crushed slate make for a focused nose in this cool-climate site near Freestone, this is an effu- Verdot and 5% Malbec. It displays the power of reserve blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% sive wine that is tangy, succulent and edgy in style. elevation, revealing dense layers of sage and black , 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec and 1% Nutmeg, clove and black tea wrap around layers of currant highlighted by cedar and graphite. Cellar- Petit Verdot. It is very dense and thick on the palate, blueberry and black cherry, all built around supple ing is recommended; enjoy from 2027–2032. Cellar where mocha, caramel, loamy earth and dark berry tannins. —V.B. Selection. —V.B. flavors align into an lusciously rich yet elegantly dry abv: 14.1% Price: $70 abv: 14.5% Price: $250 experience. —M.K. abv: 15.5% Price: $115

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Luis Duarte 2017 Rubrica (Alentejano). Quinta das Carvalhas 2018 Carvalhas Old White Walnut 2018 Worden Hill Rd. Chardon- 95 An array of six grapes have come together to 95 Vines (Douro). From a single parcel of field 95 nay (Dundee Hills). This new project is the produce this impressive wine. The result is rich and blend vines and foot trodden in an open lagar, this work of Chris Mazepink, formerly with Archery intensely structured, powered by tannins, beauti- wine is majestic in its richness and structure. While Summit. A field blend of cofermented clones using ful wood aging and black plum fruits. It is serious, never overpowering, it shows weighty, dense black- native yeasts, whole clusters and a mix of vessels, concentrated and still youthful. Best enjoyed from berry and plum flavors. It is still young and will def- it’s cutting edge in every way. Rich and penetrat- 2023. Specialty Cellars. —R.V. initely benefit from further aging. Drink from 2024. ing fruit flavors of apple, melon and peach are per- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Saranty Imports. —R.V. fectly supported by citrusy acidity. It’s balanced and abv: 14% Price: $100 dense, with plenty of aging potential. Drink through 2030. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $55

Penfolds 2018 Bin 149 Cabernet Sauvignon Saracco 2019 Moscato d’Asti. From the pro- 95 (Global). This wine is a blend of grapes from 95 ducer that put Moscato d’Asti on the map, Napa Valley (85.1%) and South Australia (14.9%). this exhilarating, fragrant wine offers heady aro- Abbott Claim 2018 Due North Pinot Noir A tannic structure gives way to a welcome juiciness mas of citrus blossom, yellow stone fruit, lemon 94 (Yamhill-Carlton). This highlights tart of tangy cranberry and currant flavors. French and and botanical herb. Reflecting the nose, the savory, cherry fruit with nuanced notes of tanned leather, American oak aging impart a moderate level of toast vibrant palate doles out juicy apricot and yellow cut tobacco, lemon rind and black tea. The flavors and vanilla tones, with accents of cedar, dried herbs peach while notes of sage and rosemary add depth. combine gracefully and move into soft tannins laced and black pepper chiming in. The bright acidity Crisp acidity balances the sweetness and gives it a with almond paste and milk chocolate. It’s a complex, lasts through a long, supple finish. Treasury Wine pristine, tangy finish while a foaming mousse lends balanced and tasty wine, made from all Pommard Estates. —V.B. finesse. WinesU.Editors’ Choice. —K.O. vines from the estate’s original 2001 planting. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $149 abv: 6% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $115

Penfolds 2018 Quantum Bin 98 Cabernet Schramsberg 2011 Reserve (North Coast). Bluebird Hill 2018 South Block Reserve Pinot 95 Sauvignon (Global). The inaugural release 95 Complexity and seamlessness are the hall- 94 Noir (Willamette Valley). Done in a mod- of this red combines 87% Cabernet Sauvignon with marks of this elegant, crisp and well-aged wine ern style that keeps alcohol in check and doesn’t 13% Shiraz, using grapes from both Napa Valley made from 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. shy away from well-managed phenolics, this brings and South Australia. Dark and brooding, it deliv- From aromas of toasted walnut and ginger to tangy blackberry and black cherry fruit into focus. High- ers a smooth, textured palate of bright red fruit and white-peach, almond and tamarind flavors, this lights include black olive, anise and espresso. supple, integrated tannins, with meaty undertones layered and creamy-textured sparkler builds great There’s a drying minerality—not too much—and along a continuum of black pepper, graphite and interest and ends with a lingering finish. Best from excellent length. —P.G. leather. Treasury Wine Estates. —V.B. 2023. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $49 abv: 14.7% Price: $700 abv: 12.8% Price: $130

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Casa Emma 2018 Harenae (Colli della Tos- De Sante 2018 The Old Vines (Napa Valley). Gary Farrell 2017 Grist Vineyard 94 cana Centrale). Made entirely in amphora, 94 This field blend includes Sauvignon Vert, 94 (Dry Creek Valley). This delicate wine is a this delicious has inviting, earthy aro- Sémillon, and Chardonnay. Together, breath of fresh air for the variety—an expressive, mas of ripe black plum, truffle, blackberry, baking they sing harmoniously and turn into a crisp, fresh lengthy and vibrant take that tastes great. Baking spice and blue flower. Reflecting the nose, the envel- and lightly styled wine. It offers flavors of lemon, spice, orange and cranberry flavors highlight the oping, chewy palate doles out mouthfuls of fleshy lime and blossoms, with a finishing note of green graceful palate, balanced by bright acidity and a Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, cinnamon and apple. —V.B. flourish of lavender on the finish. —V.B. tobacco. Velvety tannins provide the almost lush abv: 13% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 framework while fresh acidity picks up the finish. Drink through 2025. Serendipity Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $30

Jasper Hill 2018 ’s Paddock 94 (Heathcote). From a small, cool-climate region north of Melbourne, this burnished gold- Dei 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Full hued wine opens in aromas of lemon oil and candied Dal Maso 2016 Pas Dosé Riserva Metodo 94 bodied and savory, this lovely wine opens ginger alongside melted butter, toffee, mushroom 94 Classico (Lessini Durello). Crisp and pris- with aromas of wild cherry, camphor, sunbaked earth and mineral streaks. The palate is dry and rich but tine, this vibrant, focused sparkler has delicate aro- and baking spice. It’s smooth and delicious, doling not unctuous thanks to lively acidity and a gingery mas of hawthorn, white stone fruit and citrus. Racy out juicy black cherry, ripe plum, cinnamon and bite. The finish is seemingly endless. Old Bridge and bone-dry, the savory, gleaming palate delivers white pepper. Polished, enveloping tannins provide Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. juicy Meyer lemon, Anjou pear, saline and a hint of elegant support while a licorice note lingers on the abv: 12% Price: $37 bread dough. Tiny, persistent bubbles provide the close. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. elegant backdrop. Downey Selections. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $34 abv: 12.5% Price: $40

Jax 2018 4 Barrels Cabernet Franc (Calis- 94 toga). An impressive version of the variety, Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Rued Vineyard Char- this wine is thick in black cherry and mocha flavors. De Sante 2018 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). 94 donnay (Green Valley). From a clone once The tannins are supple and elongated, adding com- 94 Bright, understated and classy, this light- called the Chardonnay Musque selection, this wine plexity and structure to the juicy richness that is bodied wine is delicately layered in green apple and is highly aromatic and fresh. Juicy tropical fruit and accented by toasted oak and cedar. —V.B. pear flavors. Subtle oak notes unfold on the delicate tangerine flavors remain crisp and brilliant, leading abv: 14.9% Price: $60 structure, while earthy accents linger on the com- to a complex midpalate of Meyer lemon and pear. plex finish. —V.B. The finish is topped by lasting, lingering layers of abv: 13% Price: $45 hazelnut. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Seppeltsfield 2018 Shiraz (Barossa Valley). 94 All the hallmarks of Barossa Shiraz are here Quinta das Carvalhas NV 20 Year Old Tawny without much fuss. A heady, fruity nose of cherry Jax 2018 Block 3 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cal- 94 Port. At the perfect moment of aging, this and currant ride a wave of baking spice, mocha, fur- 94 istoga). This is a 100% varietal wine that 20-year-old Port is smoothly textured and rich in niture polish and earthy, mineral tones. The tannins impresses from first sip. Softly layered and well dried fruits that are balanced by wood and spice fla- are powerful but fine and nicely textured. There’s integrated, it has broad, fresh and supple richness vors. This is a very fine wine, ready to drink now. also enough polish here for a bit of cellaring. Drink highlighted in cedar, dried herb, sage and dense red Saranty Imports. —R.V. now–2025. Legend Imports. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. fruit. The length and breadth are breathtakingly abv: 20% Price: $60 abv: 15% Price: $22 memorable. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $125

Stone Edge Farm 2015 Estate Bottled Cab- 94 ernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). Blended John Duval Wines 2017 Eligo Shiraz Quinta das Carvalhas 2018 Vintage Port. with 13% Cabernet Franc, this beautifully styled 94 (Barossa). This bottling offers notes of 94 This is a finely perfumed wine from a blend wine is sourced primarily from the producer’s estate plum, blackberry, dark chocolate, mint, cedar and of old vines. It shows rich flavors of dried fruits and vineyard on Moon Mountain. Sanguine, herbal and tobacco, with a distinctive underbelly of green pep- fresh plums. It also has a terrific structure and a earthy, it dazzles in peppercorn, leather, cedar and percorn spice. The palate is full-bodied but not tannic character that will allow it to age. Drink from gracefully structured tannins. Dark chocolate and heavy, with great depth of flavor, muscular tan- 2030. Saranty Imports. —R.V. plum add subtle richness as a note of crushed rock nins and silky fruit. It offers plenty of precision and abv: 20% Price: $70 closes things out. Enjoy from 2025–2030. Cellar charm. Drink now–2035. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P. Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $100 abv: 14.6% Price: $130

Rangeland 2016 Limestone Reserve Cabernet 94 Sauvignon (Adelaida District). Lush aromas Penley Estate 2019 Phoenix Cabernet Sau- of black currant, plum skin, clove, star anise, lilac and White Walnut 2018 Chardonnay (Dundee 94 vignon (Coonawarra). This excellent wine loamy soil make for a very complex and layered nose 94 Hills). Winemaker and owner Chris Maze- offers aromas of blueberry, currant, terra cotta, in this bottling. Chiseled tannins frame a dynamic pink has a deft touch with the grape, weaving a com- iodine, savory spices and an umami-like seaweed sip, where milk chocolate and star anise accent the plex mix of tree fruits, citrus peel and light touches nuance. There’s lovely depth of flavor, tannin struc- rich cherry-compote and orange-rind flavors. —M.K. of cracker and cookie dough. Flavors are deep and ture and regional expression on the palate. Drink abv: 15.3% Price: $50 well-delineated, finishing with suggestions of through 2040. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. lemon drop candy, honeydew and bee pollen. Edi- —C.P. tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $40

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Wine & Soul 2018 Pintas (Douro). Trodden Carol Shelton 2018 Coquille Rouge (Central 94 by foot in open lagars and then aged in wood 93 Coast). This blend of , , for nearly two years, this wine is darkly colored and Mourvèdre, and Petite Sirah from densely textured. It comes from a field blend of old the San Joaquin Valley is a stunner. Dense aromas J. Lohr 2018 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon vines. It is richly structured and sure to age well. of fudge, boysenberry syrup and candied lilac lead 93 (Paso Robles). This widely available bot- Don’t drink before 2024. Winebow. —R.V. into a smooth, silky palate of roasted black cherry, tling remains a very wise choice for the price point. abv: 14.5% Price: $115 charred fig, Dr Pepper spice and shaved chocolate. Dark in the glass, it begins with cassis, pie crust Editors’ Choice. —M.K. and baking spice on the nose, yet there’s a savory abv: 14.5% Price: $25 black-olive touch as well. Firm yet polished tannins carry dark fruit, cocoa and light licorice through the dense palate. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 15.1% Price: $35

Ancient Peaks 2017 Oyster Ridge (Santa 93 Margarita Ranch). Aromas of black plum, sandalwood, coffee,­ tea and smoked teriyaki show on the savory nose of this blend of 80% Cabernet Centralas 2019 Syren Spear Vineyards Pinot Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Malbec, 4% 93 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Very light in the glass, Joyce 2019 Submarine Canyon Pinot Noir ­Cabernet Franc and 1% Merlot. The palate shows this is an extremely fresh, bright and zesty bottling, 93 (Monterey). Raspberry and hibiscus aromas meatier tones of smoked beef, hoisin sauce and beginning with snappy aromas of pomegranate and meet with mint, ginger, carnation and wet earth cracked pepper, with a caramelized finish. —M.K. tarragon. The refreshing palate smashes raspberry, on the nose of this red. The palate combines those abv: 14.5% Price: $60 strawberry and cherry together with dewy herbs earthy tones with dried raspberry, a hint of roast and buoyant acidity. —M.K. pork and bright rose-petal flavors, finishing on a abv: 14.4% Price: $39 tart cranberry tone. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $25

Boscarelli 2017 Sotto Casa Riserva (Vino 93 Nobile di Montepulciano). A blend of 80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Gancia 2011 Cuvée 60 Mesi Riserva Brut ­Merlot, this has heady aromas of cassis, spice, 93 (Alta Langa). Aromas­ of chamomile, acacia Knights Bridge 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon menthol and rose. Elegantly structured and savory, honey and bread crust follow over to the focused 93 (Knights Valley). Thick and substantial on the taut, enveloping palate features ripe Marasca palate along with ripe yellow apple, cedar, hazelnut the palate, this 100% varietal wine was given time ­cherry, licorice and espresso set against polished, and citrus. Vibrant acidity keeps it remarkably fresh in 85% new French oak. Cranberry, red currant and fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2027. Empson and energized while a silky, continuous perlage dark cherry meet an earthy, well-integrated core of USA Ltd. —K.O. lends finesse. Roust.Editors’ Choice. —K.O. dried herb, graphite and sage. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $77 abv: 12.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $115

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Landmark 2018 Damaris Reserve Chardonnay 93 (Sonoma Coast). Complex, layered and rich Neyers 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Sangiacomo 2018 Roberts Road Vineyard in style, this white offers texture and fresh under­ 93 Valley).­ Earthy layers of tobacco, cedar and 93 Chardonnay (Petaluma Gap). Made in a lying acidity. Tastes of white peach, Gravenstein blackberry highlight this elegant wine. With inte- creamy, opulent style, this wine brims in baked apple and pear mingle effortlessly across a lengthy grated tannins and oak, it is a seamless red that apple, brioche and toasted oak. With a balanced, palate that’s­ nuanced in oak and baking spice. —V.B. speaks softly yet with an enduring presence. —V.B. medium-body and a lush texture, it finishes with a abv: 14.1% Price: $35 abv: 14.4% Price: $60 beautiful bite of lemon cookie. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $65

Lester 2018 Mercurio Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz 93 Mountains). Very light in the glass, this bot- tling begins with aromas of bay leaf, wet sage, tart raspberry and a hint of toast. The palate packs in roasted flavors of grilled plums and charred berries with a crushed rock minerality, all wrapped in a tense structure. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $55 Penfolds 2018 Bin 600 Cabernet-Shiraz (Cal- Silenus 2017 Merlot (Oak Knoll District). 93 ifornia). This is a blend of 78% Napa Valley- 93 Juicy and robust in nature, with a nice layer- and ­Sonoma-grown Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% ing of dried herb and baking spice, this full-bodied­ ­Shiraz from Paso Robles. It is a smooth and earthy wine is brimming in succulent black fruit. With a wine that offers flavors of leather, earth, iron and small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, it has a crushed rock cut against herbal accents. —V.B. prominent tannic structure and well-­integrated abv: 14.5% Price: $50 oak. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

Luis Duarte 2018 Rapariga da Quinta Reserva 93 (Alentejano). Fermented in open tanks, this wine has a rich, smooth texture. It shows dense tannins and young blackberry fruits accom- panied by layers of acidity. The potential of this wine is obvious, needing time to open up and soften Pursuit 2018 Campfire Red (Napa Valley). the vivacious fruit. Drink from 2023. Specialty 93 Waxy plum and dark cherry flavors com- Sobon Estate 2018 Cougar Hill Zinfandel Cellars. —R.V. bine with savory accents of tobacco, dried herb and 93 (Amador County). Warm oak spices of cin- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 coffee in this substantial blend. A soft midpalate namon, nutmeg and clove put a wonderful spin on reveals integrated, toasted oak and tannins, leading the rich, ripe, blackberry and blueberry flavors in to a finish of enduring power. —V.B. this full-bodied wine. It is rounded in feel and con- abv: 15.5% Price: $55 centrated in fruit character. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

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Valdemar 2018 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Alma Rosa 2018 El Jabali Chardonnay (Sta. Diora 2018 La Grande Lumière San Bernabe 93 Almost all of the fruit for this wine comes 92 Rita Hills). Fresh aromas of soft white peach, 92 Vineyard Estate Grown Chardonnay (Mon- from the LeFore Vineyard. Aromas of earth, red citrus pith and chalk meet with a toasty brioche terey). Rich aromas of buttercream, marshmallow plum, orange rind, huckleberry and spice lead to tone on the expressive nose of this bottling. There’s and roasted apple are voluptuous on the nose of this full-feeling, palate-coating flavors. It shows a lot of a firm, chalky texture to the sip, where nectarine, bottling. The palate is enlivened by strong lemon- layering, detail, depth, finesse and freshness. The buttercream and fresh lemon-zest flavors surround peel acidity, then leads into apricot, apple and balance is impeccable. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. the nutty core and lingering acidity. —M.K. honey­suckle flavors, proving more in balance than abv: 13.9% Price: $65 abv: 14.1% Price: $48 suggested by the rounded nose. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

Waypoint 2018 Lowrey Vineyard Basalt 93 Ledge Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Bluebird Hill 2019 Chardonnay (Willamette Burly in juicy waves of black and red berry, this 92 Valley). This bright and lively wine is classy Diora 2018 La Grande Majesté San Bernabe lengthy, complex and ripe wine is intense and pow- in every way—a Chardonnay that lifts the palate, 92 Vineyard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Mon- erfully built. Sage, crushed rock and firm tannins sharpens food flavors and threatens to become the terey). Quite deep and rich in all aspects, this bot- give it an edgy grip, lending a nice complement to life of the party. Tree fruits and barrel toast are in tling from a hillside block of the Dijon clone 115 the power. Enjoy from 2028–2035. Cellar Selec- play, with a highlight of Meyer lemon. The juicy and shows black cherry, mace, star anise and clove on tion. —V.B. fresh finish keeps the flavors front and center.Edi - the suave nose. It’s a meaty Pinot Noir on the palate, abv: 15.6% Price: $149 tors’ Choice. —P.G. showing both viscosity and grippy tannins while abv: 13.9% Price: $32 delivering powerful fruit flavors and a caramelized, vanilla-kissed ­finish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

Brashley 2018 Hacienda Sequoia Vineyard 92 ­Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This full-­ bodied wine is cedary and spicy in aroma. It is Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2019 Bern­ sturdy in texture and nicely packed with black 92 kasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Ries- 10,000 Hours 2018 Red Blend (Red Moun- cherry and black olive flavors. There is also a slight ling Spätlese (Mosel). Tangerine and lemon are hon- 92 tain). Plum, black currant and barrel spice grip to the appetizing mouthfeel, making this a eyed and plump on the palate of this rich white. It’s aromas are followed by broad dark fruit and spice delight to drink. —J.G. a juicy, decadently fruity sip marked by sun-kissed flavors that show plenty of concentration and inten- abv: 13.7% Price: $65 sweetness and fresh, vital acidity. While particu- sity. It brings a real sense a depth from start to fin- larly enjoyable young, it should hold well through ish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 2030. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 8% Price: $30

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 LangeTwins 2017 Jahant Woods 02 Vineyard Opaque 2018 Malbec (Paso Robles). Suave 92 Teroldego (Jahant). A superdark color and 92 aromas of black cherry, creamy caramel, rich black-fig and blackberry aromas carry the nose. vanilla and dark red flowers converge on the nose Broad, ripe blackberry and blueberry flavors are of this bottling. Thick yet elegant tannins frame Cellars 2019 Flowers blanketed by light tannins that help balance out the the sip, where Morello cherry, baked boysenberry 92 (Santorini). The nose on this Assyrtiko is jammy richness. It’s a big, fun, enjoyable wine. Edi- and baking spice flavors make for a satisfyingly rich open and generous, with scents of white flowers, tors’ Choice. —J.G. ­expression. —M.K. lemon and herbs prevailing. It has a complex and abv: 14% Price: $32 abv: 14.9% Price: $30 savory character balanced by a touch of ripe white fruit. Nestor Imports. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $27

Quinta das Carvalhas 2016 Late Bottled 92 Vintage­ Port. This wine is rich and dense Neyers 2017 AME Neyers Ranch Estate in flavors of chocolate and ripe black fruit. It has Kendall-Jackson 2019 Vintner’s Reserve 92 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). the bold tannins to match the concentration of the 92 Chardonnay (California). Concentrated and This wine is savory and supple in well-integrated fruits, bolstered by a fresh touch of acidity. Drink creamy but not overly showy, this wine is balanced, tannins. Black fruit, graphite and a robust mouth- now. Vinofiamma. —R.V. restrained and layered. It meshes an apple-tart fla- feel make it powerful and complex, leading to a abv: 20% Price: $20 vor with subtle ­vanilla and nutmeg nuances while finish of baking spice that persists. This needs underlying acidity achieves excellent balance. Edi- time in the cellar; enjoy from 2027–2030. Cellar tors’ Choice. —J.G. Selection. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 14.6% Price: $110

Neyers 2017 Neyers Ranch Estate Grown Cab- LangeTwins 2018 Diablo Vineyard Petite 92 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Earthy, tan- Rocky Pond 2017 La Domestique Reserve 92 Sirah (Clarksburg). Beautifully ripe and nic and young, this wine brims in black fruit, cedar 92 Double D Vineyard (Columbia Valley). Merlot darkly fruity, this massively concentrated and full- and tobacco that are accented by black o­live and comprises over three-quarters of this wine, with bodied wine coats the palate with blueberries, crushed rock. With substantial midpalate weight, it the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Appealing blackberries and dark chocolate while velvety tan- takes time to integrate, finding a cohesive conclu- aromas of dried herbs, cherry and raspberry lead to nins ease the texture. Tempting now, it’s best to sion on the long finish. —V.B. a zippy currant flavor that fleshes out over time. The enjoy this after 2024.Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $75 acidity is tart and bright, lifting it all up. Best after abv: 15% Price: $32 2023. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $45

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Wine & Soul 2017 Pintas Character (Douro). San Simeon 2017 Stormwatch Estate Reserve Sobon Estate 2018 Zinfandel (Fiddletown). 92 Grapes trodden by foot in open lagars give 92 (Paso Robles). Deep aromas of blackberry, 92 Hints of black pepper and woodsmoke on generous tannins as well as a dense texture. The cherry, baking spice and toasty wood show on the the nose lead to ripe plum and peppered-meat fla- wine is ripe in feel, with impressive flavors of lico- nose of this blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, vors that are rich enough to sink your teeth into. rice and black fruits. Everything is still structured 20% ­Malbec, 16% Petit Verdot, 12% Merlot and This full-bodied, lightly tannic wine offers complex- and needs to age. Drink from 2023. Wnebow. —R.V. 12% Cabernet Franc. Lush fruit flavors meet with ity and power. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $37 toasty oak spice, offering a very satisfying, hearty abv: 15.5% Price: $22 experience. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

Sarah’s Vineyard 2018 Estate Chardonnay 92 (Santa Clara Valley). This bottling expertly Square Peg 2017 Riddle Vineyard Pinot Noir captures both the warm sunshine of the southern 92 (Sonoma Coast). Earthy and silky, this Wine Art Estate 2019 Pink Bang Rosé Santa Clara Valley and the maritime influence of memorable wine brims in tones of cardamom, black 92 (Drama). Minerally but mouthwatering, the nearby ocean. Aromas of peach, daffodil and tea and tangy red fruit. The spice accents continue with touches of strawberry and spice, this pour buttercream are sprinkled with sea salt on the through a lengthy, complex finish, leaving this with is both fun and elegant. It has a delicious balance nose, while the palate packs in flavors of lemon a nuanced, elegant feel. —V.B. between bright acidity and juicy fruit, with a linger- zest, coconut flake and salted butter.Editors’ abv: 13.9% Price: $65 ing salty, seashell finish. R&R Selections LLC. —S.K. Choice. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $36 abv: 13.8% Price: $36

Terra d’Oro 2018 Petite Sirah (Amador Sobon Estate 2018 Rocky Top Zinfandel 92 County).­ This inky-colored, massively struc- 92 (Amador County). This full-bodied and tured wine fortunately has ample ripe, almost jammy, plushly textured wine starts with wild berry and black-fruit flavors to fill out its richly tannic frame. Wine Art Estate 2019 Plano Assyrtiko underbrush aromas followed by ripe blackberry Blackberry, dark chocolate and blueberry syrup notes 92 (Drama). Citrus, graphite and crushed herbs and black-plum flavors. Its concentration and soften the texture and linger on the finish. ­Editors’ start off this mouthwatering Assyrtiko from Drama. smoothness combine for great sipping. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. On the palate, it’s clean and fresh, with another Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 wave of smoke on the finish. R&R Selections abv: 14.5% Price: $18 LLC. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $25

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Avancia 2019 Old Vines Godello (Valdeorras). Carol Shelton 2019 Coquille Blanc (Paso Château de Fieuzal 2018 L’Abeille de Fieuzal 91 Fresh and pure aromas of minerals, apple 91 Robles). Aromas of peach, honey cake and 91 (Pessac-Léognan). With a dominance of and white stone fruits precede a round palate that’s Key lime pie make for a ripe entry to the nose of this Merlot, this second wine of Château de Fieuzal is clean as a whistle, with medium-level acidity. Apple blend of white Rhône grapes. There’s a viscous feel rich while keeping a good sense of proportion and flavors dominate, with notes of green herbs and a to the sip, where flavors of roasted orange, lemon accessibility. Soft tannins give shape and set off touch of skins-based bitterness backing it up. Light tonic and a bit of peach arise. —M.K. the blackberry fruits. Drink from 2023. The Wine apple and pear notes are detectable on a minerally abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Trust. —R.V. finish. Drink through 2022. Jorge Ordóñez Selec- abv: 13% Price: $41 tions. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $34

Cartograph 2018 Pinot Noir (Russian River 91 Valley). Made from grapes grown at the Complicated 2019 Pinot Noir (Monterey Carto­graph estate as well as Starscape Vineyard, 91 County).­ Juicy aromas of raspberry sorbet, Be Human 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- this wine is thick and generous on the palate. Tea, plum, mace and tarragon are fresh and zesty on the 91 bia Valley). This wine is unmistakably Cab- clove and oak accent a core of crisp cherry and rasp- nose of this bottling. The palate is full of pleasant ernet, with its aromas of black currant, spice and berry before finishing on a rich vanilla note. —V.B. herbal tones, from fennel pollen to licorice, and also dark fruit. The palate brings seriousness uncom- abv: 13.3% Price: $48 offers black raspberry and potpourri flavors. —M.K. mon to see at a wine at this price, rich through the abv: 13.9% Price: $24 middle with plenty of structure to back it up. A light medicinal streak runs in the background. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

Cuvage 2016 Rosé Brut Metodo Classico (Neb- Chasing Rain 2018 Merlot (Red Mountain). 91 biolo d’Alba). This delicately hued salmon- 91 This wine is a lot of what there is to love colored sparkler offers enticing aromas of red berry, about Washington Merlot. It offers an opulent vanilla and Gala apple. Reflecting the nose, the mouthful of ripe fruit flavors, with plenty of struc- savory, creamy palate offers brioche, red cherry and Callan 2019 Boushey Vineyards Picpoul ture to back it all up. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. pastry cream alongside a lively perlage and bright 91 (Yakima Valley). Aromas of whole lemon and abv: 14.5% Price: $25 acidity. Mack & Schuhle Inc. —K.O. lemon oil are followed by a rounded palate and quite abv: 12.5% Price: $40 puckering fruit flavors. There’s a big kick of acidity that delights. Pair it with lemon risotto and prawns. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 11.7% Price: $25

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Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Amber Headturner 2018 The Nerve Cabernet Sauvi- Kaiken 2018 Ultra Malbec (Mendoza). Baked 91 (Finger Lakes). This rare Georgian variety is 91 gnon (Red Mountain). This is an appropri- 91 blackberry and plum aromas include notes a hallmark for the , which has vines dating ately named, attention-getting wine. The aromas of coffee and raisin on the nose. Spiky acidity lends back to the early 1980s. The wine sees extended draw you into the glass with notes of dried herbs, texture to the medium-depth palate, while this skin contact and is aged in a mix of neutral barrel, plum and black currant. The flavors are fresh and tastes of blackberry and cassis before transitioning amphora and clayver. Incredibly floral on the nose, lively, with a lightly grainy feel to the tannins and to chocolate and toast on the finish. Drink through it dazzles in a bevy of milky white flowers, peppery pleasing depth of flavor.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 2024. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. white spice and peach. The medium-bodied palate abv: 14.8% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 follows suit, displaying an alluring mix of tart stone fruit, flowers and spice. There’s a pleasing, textural grip to it all, akin to the delicate tannins of oolong tea. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $40

Jax 2019 Y3 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Landmark 2018 Overlook Chardonnay (­Sonoma 91 ­Fermented in concrete tank and aged in neu- 91 County). Oaky, rich and layered, this lik- tral oak, this steely wine is delicately layered in able white offers apple, peach, pear and a whirl of lemon and papaya. It shows very good substance and butter­scotch, with the oak adding a toasted note. style on the lengthy finish. —V.B. Softly textured and rounded on the palate, it brings Ferrari NV Brut (Trento). Aromas of white abv: 13.2% Price: $20 complexity within a full-bodied style. —V.B. 91 spring flower, white orchard fruit and a whiff abv: 14.3% Price: $27 of brioche lead the way. On the crisp palate, an ele- gant perlage accompanies creamy yellow apple, pear and lemon drop. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

Justin 2017 Trilateral (Paso Robles). Roasted 91 cherry and dried red-flower aromas meet with wet rocks, black pepper and turned soil on the LangeTwins 2017 River Ranch Vineyard Petit nose of this blend of 72% Syrah, 20% Grenache and 91 Verdot (Jahant). Soothing, rich blackberry Ferrari 2015 Perlé Brut (Trento). Aromas of 8% Mourvèdre. The palate is loaded with roasted and blueberry flavors nicely fill out the moderately 91 yellow apple,­ hazelnut and brioche come to and smoked flavors, from blistered cherry to hick- tannic texture of this full-bodied, dark-fruited the forefront. These tones follow on to the palate ory, with a clay-like minerality lifting it up. —M.K. wine. Good concentration and deep black-fruit fla- alongside a lemon zest flavor set against racy acidity abv: 15.5% Price: $55 vors are shaped by a firm, velvety mouthfeel. —J.G. and a lively perlage. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $32 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Maison Bleue 2018 Frontière Funk Vineyard Wapisa 2018 Malbec (Río Negro Valley). 91 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas 91 Earthy black fruit aromas include notes of immediately place this wine in the Rocks District, sun-dried prune and cinnamon. This Patagonian with notes of moist earth, black pepper, peat and Malbec is ripe and full but popping with cool-­ firepit, along with orange rind. Soft, plush fruit and Rocky Pond 2017 Reserve Double D Vineyard climate acidity. Blackberry and peppercorn flavors savory flavors follow, bringing restraint and sophis- 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This finish smooth but firm enough to avoid any sem- tication alongside a lightly creamy feel. —S.S. wine comes from a newer site in the Rocky Reach blance of softness. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $75 region, with the grapes grown on granite bedrock abv: 13.5% Price: $24 soils—a rarity for Washington. It has classic Caber- net aromas of cherry, crushed herbs, currant, cedar and olive. The palate is medium-plus in feel, soft, reserved and understated. Bright acidity provides support. Give it some additional time in the cellar. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $59

Wine & Soul 2018 Manoella (Douro). From Meadowlark 2013 Los Olivos Red Blend (Santa 91 an old vineyard in the Pinhão Valley, this 91 Barbara County). Aromas of dark cherry and wine is beautifully rich in sumptuous tannins and ­cedar meet with soy, purple flowers, incense and black fruits. It has dense berry flavors that are shot pepper on the dynamic nose of this aged blend of through with bright acidity and a bold structure Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Syrah. A tight that will allow it to age. Drink from 2023. Winebow. texture and bright acidity carries the palate, where Editors’ Choice. —R.V. crisp yet savory fruit and spice flavors align. —M.K. Saracina 2018 Skid Row Malbec (Mendocino abv: 14% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $30 91 County). Deep and generous black-cherry flavors are wrapped in silky tannins in this nicely concentrated and polished wine. It boasts a sooth- ing mouthfeel, with touches of clove and cardamom that add to its appeal. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

A to Z 2019 (Oregon). This fruit- Oak Farm 2019 Estate Grown Fiano (Lodi). 90 powered, gulpable wine is loaded with 91 Light floral and melon aromas lead to a rich a pear flavor. The midpalate fills out further with palate of ripe apple, pear and pecan flavors that ride yellow apple fruit, and the lightly creamy finish an ultrasmooth texture. This medium-bodied wine Tassajara 2019 Pinot Noir (Monterey). There’s satisfies. It’s a fine everyday .Editors’ has a broad mouthfeel and generous flavors that lin- 91 a touch of game on the nose of this afford- Choice. —P.G. ger into the finish. —J.G. able and complex bottling, which also shows aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $26 mas of smoked berry, clove and garam masala. ­Roasted strawberry and red plum meet with game, orange rind, herbs and cracked pepper on the well-­ seasoned palate. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

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Akrasia 2015 Line of Fire Vineyard Cabernet 90 Sauvignon (Rutherford). Soft and leathery Callan 2019 Boushey Vineyards Grenache Colección Quinquela 2018 Motivo de Puerto on the palate, this understated wine is earthy and 90 Blanc (Yakima Valley). Coming from one 90 Single Vineyard Red Blend (Famatina Val- tangy in currant and cranberry. Firm tannins pro- of the state’s top vineyards, the nose of this wine ley). A darkly concentrated color and aromas of vide a subtle structure, with notes of cedar, pencil offers green apple, lemon zest and wet rock leading black fruits, road tar and lemony oak lead to a full and clove lending balance. —V.B. to a tart, puckering and sleek lemon twist flavor. palate with moderate acidity. Spicy, chocolaty oak abv: 14.2% Price: $80 It’s a thoroughly delicious, high-acid wine. Pair it notes add depth to berry flavors, while this blend of with scallop ceviche with kiwi and lime. Editors’ Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon finishes level and Choice. —S.S. steady. EcoValley. —M.S. abv: 12.3% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $35

Anko 2018 Flor de Cardón Malbec (Salta). 90 Aromas of dried earth, baking spice, wild berry and smoky plum are expansive on the nose, while it feels medium in weight on the pal- ate. Baked black plum, oak spice and tomato fla- Chasing Rain 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite and vors bring all the elements of high-altitude grapes 90 Mountain). Red Mountain Cabernet at this 90 Nicolas Catena 2018 Aruma Malbec (Men- into play. The finish is tight and dry, with berry price? Yes, please. Blackberry, dried herb and spice doza). Floral aromas of violets and rose petals blend flavors aided by oak spice and pepper. Vino Del lead to palate-coating fruit flavors with plenty of with berry fruits and mild grassy notes in this Mal- Sol. —M.S. structure. It shows impressive balance. Editors’ bec. It’s soft in feel, with flavors of blueberry, black- abv: 13.9% Price: $20 Choice. —S.S. berry and cassis that lead to a smooth finish. Taub abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Family Selections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

Battuello 2018 Valdiguié (St. Helena). This 90 producer has been growing Valdiguié since the 1920s. This red is immensely appealing and Château Magnol 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2019 Dry Ries- approachable. Showing just a tiny bit of underlying 90 Médoc). From the southern sector of Haut- 90 ling (Mosel). Fully dry but loaded with juicy grip, it stays lively and focused, with a hint of bak- Médoc, this wine is well-structured in fine tannins mango and guava flavors, this is an easy-drinking ing spice and vanilla. —V.B. and attractive black-currant fruit. The heft and white likely to please broadly. Medium in weight abv: 12.5% Price: $45 spicy character from the wood promise aging. Drink and plump yet vibrant and zesty, it’s particularly from 2023. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. delightful young, but should hold through 2023. abv: 13% Price: $30 Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $17

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Herdade do Esporão 2019 Esporão Reserva Early Mountain 2017 Quaker Run Vineyards 90 (Alentejo). This young and fruity wine is 90 (Virginia). Plum and black currant bursting with energy and a ripe, creamy apple fla- J. Wilkes 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso aromas are dusted with white pepper and cedar on vor. A light touch of wood lends a smooth texture 90 Robles Highlands District). Serious aromas a coy nose. The palate is sultry and lush, loaded and some short-term aging possibilities. Drink from of black plum, leather, dried marjoram and cedar oil with alluring dark-fruit flavors draped in leather 2022. Now Wine Imports. —R.V. lead into a hearty palate, loaded with roasted plum, and tobacco. The caressing tannins provide a solid abv: 14% Price: $20 smoked meat, black olive and pine resin. Black pep- structure but show no signs of aggression, and the per spice carries the finish.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. acidity is steady and serious. The finish is both end- abv: 13.8% Price: $30 less and addictive. —F.A. abv: 15.3% Price: $45

Huston 2019 Chicken Dinner White Wine 90 (Snake River Valley). This is mostly Riesling La Braccesca 2017 Vino Nobile di Monte­ Ferrari NV Rosé Brut Metodo Classico (83%), with the rest Blanc and . 90 pulciano. Aromas of red berry, blue flower 90 (Trento). Aromas of bread crust, rose and Aromas of lychee, pink grapefruit rind and white and spice lead the nose. Savory and linear, the taut red berry lift out of the glass. Reflecting the nose, flowers jump from the glass. Dry, sleek and focused palate offers ripe plum, blackberry and star anise the racy palate offers pomegranate, sour cherry, lemon and iced tea flavors follow, hanging around before finishing on a note of grilled sage. Drink blood orange and a hint of hazelnut alongside a on the finish.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. through 2025. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. lively perlage. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 13.6% Price: $16 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

Iron Oaks 2019 Flipside White (California). 90 A lemon peel aroma meets with pithy Asian LangeTwins 2018 Redtail Vineyard Nero pear and jicama on the nose of this blend of Char- 90 d’Avola (Jahant). Aspects of flint and iron Frescobaldi 2017 Nipozzano Riserva ( donnay, Pinot Gris and . Light grapefruit, inflect the aromas and flavors of this full-bodied, 90 Rufina). Combining structure and finesse, green pear and honeysuckle flavors unfold on the smoky and savory wine. Hardly a fruit-bomb, the this has subtle but intriguing aromas of camphor, clean and fresh palate. —M.K. medium-bodied palate has a nervy, slightly tannic rose and sunbaked earth. On the taut, juicy pal- abv: 14.5% Price: $32 texture and an adventurous set of flavors. —J.G. ate, fine-grained tannins accompany dried cherry, abv: 14% Price: $32 orange zest and star anise before a coffee-bean fin- ish. Drink through 2025. Shaw-Ross International Importers. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20

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Maddalena 2018 Estate Reserve Chardon- Paul Dolan 2019 Made with Organic Grapes Sobon Estate 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 nay (Monterey). Aromas of Meyer lemon, 90 Zinfandel (Mendocino County). Pure, deli- 90 (California). This delicious and inviting butter, daffodil, cream and a hint of steely mineral- cious fruit aromas and flavors practically light up wine is full in feel yet well balanced. Rich, fresh ity show on the nose of this bottling. There is solid this well-balanced, easy-drinking wine. It shows red- and black-cherry flavors are lightly spiced tension on the palate, where roasted lemon, peach light tannins and a smooth texture that’s nicely with mint, vanilla and cinnamon as velvety tannins and apple flavors meet with a hint of smoke. —M.K. tangy, too. A lingering fresh berry character marks soothe the palate. —J.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $20 the close. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $19

The Soldier 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 (Columbia Valley). The aromas are fruit- Ramón Bilbao 2015 Reserva (). Aro- forward in notes of plum and black currant accented 90 mas of plum and berry blend with a hint of by baking spice. The flavors are ripe and luscious. Marqués de Riscal 2015 Reserva (Rioja). leather in this red. Harmonious flavors of raspberry, Pleasing acidity ties it all together. —S.S. 90 Plum, prune and leather aromas set up a currant and plum are aided by barrel-driven hints abv: 14.47% Price: $22 lively palate with vibrant acidity. Plum, currant, of vanilla and brown sugar, while a hearty finish vanilla and tobacco flavors form a classic Rioja offers good drive. Zamora Company USA. —M.S. mix, while vanilla, brown sugar and chocolate hints abv: 14.5% Price: $27 soften the finish. Shaw-Ross International Import- ers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2019 White 90 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For this wine, free run juice is quickly pressed, leaving a Pinot Noir with no hint of color. The flavors are rich Rickshaw 2018 Red Blend (Washington). in peach and citrus, with a strong component of 90 This is a blend of 30% Malbec, 28% Mer- skin tannins. The texture and length point to a wine Oak Farm 2019 Estate Grown Primitivo lot, 17% Sangiovese, 14% Cabernet Franc and 11% with considerable richness. —P.G. 90 (Lodi). Mint and pine flavors mingle with Syrah. The aromas pop in notes of raspberry, blue- abv: 12.5% Price: $30 robust blackberries and raspberries in this full- berry and spice. The palate shows pleasing intensity bodied, lightly tannic wine as it spreads generously and sophistication. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. across the palate. Very good balance combined with abv: 14% Price: $16 tasty concentration make it extra enjoyable. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 BEST BUYS

A to Z 2017 The Essence of Oregon Pinot Noir Temecula Hills 2016 Estate 89 (Oregon). Sourced from vineyards through- 88 (California). From a vineyard located 3,000 out the state, this full-bodied, fruity wine shows feet above the Temecula Valley, this bottling is very plenty of mixed berry goodness. A touch of choco- extracted and rich. It offers aromas of black plum, late adorns the finish, with seems to hit the brakes raisin and gingerbread. The palate shows espresso and briefly hold there before disappearing. Drink and gingersnap flavors atop a rich fig marmalade L’Ecole No. 41 2019 Semillon (Columbia Val- through 2022. —P.G. core. —M.K. 92 ley). L’Ecole has been carrying the banner abv: 13.8% Price: $25 abv: 14.7% Price: $34 for this variety in Washington for decades. This wine has everything there is to love about the vari- ety, with textural richness and flavor intensity along with plenty of acidity to back it up. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Viña Eguía 2015 Reserva (Rioja). Ripe berry One Stone 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso 88 and raisin aromas lead to a slightly syrupy 89 Robles). Dried berries, leather, red flowers, palate. Flavors of prune and raisin are supported by wood shavings and licorice show on the nose of this chocolaty oak on the palate. This is a straightfor- Bogle 2018 Petite Sirah (California). ­Delicious bottling. It lands very cleanly on the palate, offering ward and ripe but enjoyable Rioja. Quintessential 91 ­blackberry, blueberry and dark-chocolate fla- baked blackberry, violet and milk chocolate dusted Wines. —M.S. vors are wrapped in thick but soft tannins. This is a with oregano, marjoram and pine, as acid pops on abv: 13.5% Price: $19 full-bodied wine, with a mouthcoating texture. Best the finish. —M.K. Buy. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $12 BEST BUYS

Greg Norman Estates 2018 Shiraz-Cabernet D’Arenberg 2017 The Stump Jump Grenache- 88 (Limestone Coast). Upfront berry fruit aro- 91 Shiraz-Mourvèdre (McLaren Vale). Ripe, fleshy mas are backed by licorice, terra cotta and spice in Greek Wine Cellars 2018 Flowers blueberries and raspberries drive this red blend this wine. Bright acidity lifts the fruit on the pal- 92 (Nemea). Aromas of tomato, olive, dried without too much oak getting in the way. There’s an ate, with lighly spicy tannins framing it all. This is a herbs and cherry start this elegant red. On the pal- underbelly of flowers, cinnamon and peppery spice. great weeknight red. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P. ate, smoke, savory meats and fresh cherry flavors The tannins are typically muscular, the fruit is juicy, abv: 14.5% Price: $17 are both complex and easy to love. Nestor Imports. silky and fresh. Old Bridge Cellars. Best Buy. —C.P. Best Buy. —S.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $13

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BUYINGGUIDE

BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Goose Ridge 2018 g3 Estate Grown Family Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Chardonnay (Fin- Highlands 41 2019 Black Granite (Paso 91 Owned Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Val- 90 ger Lakes). Bright, crisp aromas of peach, 90 Robles).­ Big, booming aromas of black ley). A black currant aroma is at the fore of this apple and yellow blossoms grace the nose of this cherry, vanilla, caramel, cappuccino and dark soil wine, followed by notes of spice and herb. There is deftly balanced Chardonnay. About half sees time show on the nose of this ripe, powerful blend. Black a whole lot of depth and intensity to the dark fruit in French oak, which adds a slightly creamy texture cherry and blackberry jam are rich on the palate but flavors. It’s absolutely chock-full of fruit and struc- and a bit of spice to the ripe orchard fruit flavors on also comforting. This is sure to satisfy those seeking ture. Best Buy. —S.S. the palate. The fruit lingers pleasantly on the close. robust flavors.Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $15 Best Buy. —A.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $15

Bieler Family 2018 Born To Run Cabernet J. Lohr 2019 Riverstone Chardonnay (Arroyo 90 Sauvignon (America). A ripe plum aroma is Dr. Loosen 2019 Dr. L Dry Riesling (Mosel). 90 Seco). Opulent aromas of ripe pear, garde- joined by the slightest hint of creosote on the nose. 90 Pristine, fragrant white peach and chalky nia, apple and coconut show on the nose of this bot- The palate echoes the nose, adding blueberry and mineral tones collide in this dry, fresh-fruited Ries- tling. It’s racy with acidity on the sip, where a tart cassis notes joined by dried tobacco and allspice. ling. Steely on the finish, it’s a remarkable value for lemon flavor leads into apple blossom, poached pear There is a firm grip of tannins that holds on tight but a sophisticated yet easy-drinking wine that’s likely and pineapple, with a slight butter tone on the fin- is eventually taken over by a wash of mouthwatering to please many. Best enjoyed young. Loosen Bros. ish. Best Buy. —M.K. acidity on the plummy finish.Best Buy. —F.A. USA. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 13.9% Price: $14 abv: 13.9% Price: $12 abv: 12% Price: $12

La Selva 2019 Privo Organic Red (Toscana). DFJ Vinhos 2018 Portada Reserva (Lisboa). Greek Wine Cellars 2018 Kouros Agiorgitiko 90 A blend of organically grown Sangiovese 90 This lightly wood-aged wine offers a mix of 90 (Nemea). This wine offers an elegant nose and Alicante, this offers aromas of red-skinned spice and ripe black fruits. The tannins are properly of dried tomato, olive and dark chocolate. The pal- berry, underbrush and white pepper. Made with- softened while still giving the fruitiness shape and ate brings flavors of black tea, tomato, olive, red out added sulfites, the juicy, fresh palate features structure. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. berry and spice. This is a stately wine to drink now raspberry, cinnamon and clove alongside polished abv: 12.5% Price: $12 through 2024. Nestor Imports. Best Buy. —S.K. tannins and bright acidity. Enjoy through 2025. The abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Jack Edwards Collection. Best­ Buy.—K.O. abv: 14% Price: $15

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

LangeTwins 2019 Estate Grown Chardonnay Fox Run 2019 Doyle Family Chardonnay St. Urbans-Hof 2019 Nik Weis Urban Ries- 90 (Clarksburg). Fresh pear and apple flavors 89 (Seneca Lake). Bright aromas of orange 89 ling (Mosel). Notes of pine frond and mint are accented by subtle bread dough and baking- blossom and lily grace the nose of this Chardonnay lend a cooling, vital freshness to this feather-light spice nuances in this medium- to full-bodied wine. that’s blended with a tiny amount of Traminette. Riesling. Off dry in style, it’s a pristine, lemony sip It shows a good balance between ripeness and mild The palate is ripe and juicy in flavors of pineapple that finishes long on a delicately earthen tone. Best acidity for a fresh but satisfying impression. Best and peach, cinched up by a pleasing textural grip now–2023. HB Wine Merchants. Best Buy. —A.I. Buy. —J.G. and bright acidity. This is a solid buy for those look- abv: 10.5% Price: $13 abv: 14% Price: $15 ing for a fruity yet balanced medium-bodied white. Best Buy. —A.P. abv: 12.9% Price: $13

Villa Wolf 2019 Gewürztraminer (Pfalz). 90 Classic notes of lychee, white tea and hon- eysuckle extend from nose to finish in this gor- Kirkland Signature 2016 Reserva (Rioja). geously perfumed, fruity white. Just a lip-smacking 89 This value-priced winner is about as good shade off dry, it’s a juicy, exuberantly fresh sip that’s and honest as everyday Rioja gets. Earthy cherry perfect as an aperitif or accompaniment to delicate and plum aromas are inviting, while this earns Marqués de Riscal 2017 Arienzo Crianza spiced foods. It’s a fantastic bang-for-your-buck points for fullness, balance and appealing flavors of 88 (Rioja). Cherry, plum, leather and tobacco find that’s best enjoyed young. Loosen Bros. USA. spiced cherry and plum. Drink up. Quintessential aromas are fairly deep and concentrated on the Best Buy. —A.I. Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. nose. A hefty palate brings flavors of prune, black abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $7 plum and green herbs. A chocolate note arises on the finish. Shaw-Ross International Importers.Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $10

William Gunn NV The Boss A Big Red Blend Raimund Prüm 2019 Essence Riesling 90 (El Dorado). Subtle­ gamy and leathery fla- 89 (Mosel). Bold, sun-kissed aromas of yel- vors are bolstered by a core of ripe black-cherry fla- low peach and pineapple drive the palate of this vors in this full-bodied, moderately tannic wine. A medium-dry Riesling. It’s a light-bodied and zesty Barefoot Bubbly NV Brut Cuvée (California). blended of Mourvèdre, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, but intensely fruity sip packed with pristine tanger- 87 Light and attractive lemon-cream and crisp it has very good concentration and earthy complex- ine and lime flavors. The finish is racy and edged apple flavors fill out this medium-bodied, dry and ity. Best Buy. —J.G. by a lingering stony minerality. Taub Family Selec- rather soft-textured wine that is smooth and easy abv: 14.5% Price: $15 tions. Best Buy. —A.I. on the palate. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 10.5% Price: $14 abv: 10.5% Price: $10

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­cinnamon. A lively palate pops with acidity before BEST BUYS SPIRITS settling, while this tastes of earthy berry fruits, prune and salt. Dry tannins keep this focused and on path through the finish. For a value-priced Malbec, this shows complexity and a higher- than-normal level of quality. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

Monteviejo 2018 Festivo Malbec (Uco Valley). 91 Muscular but composed black fruit aromas stop short of being overripe. A full yet balanced pal- ate is, much like the nose on this Malbec, big but in shape. Blackberry, black plum and prune flavors CK Mondavi and Family 2017 Merlot (Califor- Bushmills The Rare Casks 28 Years Limited are ripe and appealing, while a sturdy finish doesn’t 87 nia). Fresh and fruity, this nicely ripe wine 98 Release No. 01 Cognac Cask Irish Whiskey change the script. Taub Family Selections. Best Buy. is medium bodied and tastes clean and complete. (Ireland; Proximo Spirits, Jersey City, NJ). This is a —M.S. Plenty of ripe plum and black-cherry notes give it a single malt distilled in 1992, matured in Bourbon abv: 14.2% Price: $14 delicious flavor.Best Buy. —J.G. and casks, and finished in Cognac casks. It’s abv: 13.6% Price: $7 a delicious, nuanced dram, with vanilla and fresh- Puro Uno 2011 Mega Malbec (Mendoza). Baked cut red apple on nose and palate and a superlight, 91 blackberry, dark plum, chocolate and raisiny almost effervescent texture. A splash of water teases aromas open this heavyweight holdover from 2011. out lemon mousse and a puff of smoke on the exhale. Sunbaked flavors of blackberry, black currant, fig abv: 46.7% Price: $500 and chocolate finish full and muscular, with sticky richness that no amount of time will tame. Drink through 2026. Puro Uno Imports. —M.S. abv: 15.3% Price: $75

Septima 2018 Reserva Obra Malbec (Men- 91 doza). Blackberry aromas come with a dust- ing of baking spice as well as touches of raisin and heat. A flush palate shows smooth tannins and good core acidity. Blackberry, black plum, earthy spice Barefoot Bubbly NV Extra Dry (California). and salty flavors finish warm, steady and satisfying. 86 A hint of sweetness rounds the edges of this Drink through 2025. Raventos Codorniu. —M.S. lightly fruity and floral wine. A soft effervescence abv: 14% Price: $22 carries fresh apple and subtle pistachio flavors.Best Buy. —J.G. The Busker Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Disaronno Wapisa 2018 Malbec (Río Negro Valley). For abv: 10.5% Price: $10 94 International, Somerset, NJ). Billed as a tri- 91 full review see page 15. ple cask whiskey, the liquid was finished in barrels abv: 13.5% Price: $24 that previously held Sherry, Bourbon and Marsala. The result is a cinnamon and faint floral aroma, and Anko 2018 Flor de Cardón Malbec (Salta). a palate that sizzles with baking spice. It eventu- 90 For full review see page 16. ally mellows into flavors of vanilla wafer, cocoa and abv: 13.9% Price: $20 dried fig, finishing with gingery zing.Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $25 Domaine Bousquet 2018 Gran Made with 90 Organic Grapes Malbec (Uco Valley). Ini- tially this Malbec smells reduced and rubbery, like black olive and pavement mixed with blackberry and prune. A smacking palate softens with time and airing to show buttery thickness, while this tastes of ripe black fruits with a hint of raisin. A chunky, CK Mondavi and Family 2018 Cabernet jammy finish conveys all of the wine’s 15% abv. 86 Sauvignon (California). Ample cherry fla- WISD LLC. —M.S. vors are shaded by light smoke and herb notes. abv: 15% Price: $25 The medium-bodied palate is slightly tannic, with savory qualities typical of the grape. Best Buy. —J.G. Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite and abv: 13.6% Price: $7 90 Nicolas Catena 2018 Aruma Malbec (Men- doza). For full review see page 16. Slane Triple Casked Irish Whiskey (Ireland; abv: 14.5% Price: $17 92 Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). A particu- larly full-bodied whiskey, look for candied orange Puro Uno 2011 Gran Reserva Malbec (Men- and Sherried raisin aromas, leading into a fruit- 90 doza). Rich, mature aromas of chocolate, cake-like palate. It is warm and sticky, with flavors caramel, baking spice, blackberry and cassis feed a of maple, dried date and baking spice that lead into clamping palate with wiry tartaric acidity. At 15.5% the finish.Best Buy. abv, this is an old-school more-is-more Malbec that abv: 40% Price: $30 tastes of baked plum, blackberry, vanilla and choco-

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 late. Staunch acidity stands out on a thick finish Malbec from Gualtallary in Tupungato. Moët Hen- this hits with hard tannins. Herbal and red berry dominated by blackened toast and coffee flavors. nessy USA. —M.S. flavors turn spicy and peppery, while this Malbec Drink now. Puro Uno Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.9% Price: $100 finishes with mild green hints. Tri-Vin Imports. abv: 15.5% Price: $100 Best Buy. —M.S. Domaine Bousquet 2019 Made with Organic abv: 13% Price: $10 Salentein 2018 Reserve Malbec (Uco Val- 87 Grapes Malbec (Tupungato). Wiry berry and 90 ley). Spicy blackberry, cola and cool earth plum aromas are punchy and raw, while this feels Mendoza Vineyards 2019 Malbec (Mendoza). aromas set up a hefty palate with midlevel acidity full but tough. Skimmed berry flavors are backed 85 A gritty nose smells more damp and mossy and rubbing tannins. Ripe, lightly baked blackberry by dry tannins that leave a scratchy feeling on the than bright and fruity. On the palate, this Malbec and dark plum flavors finish steady on a full and finish of this aggressive Malbec. WISD LLC. —M.S. feels flat, hard and dense. Berry flavors take on a jammy finish. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $13 minty tinge before turning raisiny, while a sim- abv: 14.5% Price: $19 ple finish with mild burn wraps this up. Tri-Vin Manos Negras 2019 Atrevida Malbec (Men- Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. Kaiken 2018 Selección Especial Malbec 87 doza). Dark-berry aromas are nonspecific abv: 13.5% Price: $10 89 (Mendoza). Gritty blackberry aromas are and slightly rustic and stewed. A tight palate is peppery and spicy, while lively acidity drives a full cemented by crisp acidity and dry tannins. Saucy Doña Paula 2019 Los Cardos Malbec (Men- and piercing palate. Spicy plum and blackberry fla- black plum and berry flavors don’t evolve on a tan- 84 doza). Aromas of black olive, rubber, iodine vors show a hint of backside prune, while this tastes nic finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. and earthy berry fruits feed into a linear and nar- of oak spice, pepper and black fruits on a solid fin- abv: 14% Price: $15 row palate with sharp acidity and not much depth. ish. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. Tart plum and currant flavors are salty, while this abv: 14% Price: $NA Tacho 2018 Reserva Hand-Picked Estate is punchy and edgy on a finish that tastes mildly 87 Vineyards Malbec (Uco Valley). Leafy berry green. Prestige Beverage Group. —M.S. Zolo 2019 Estate Grown and Bottled Malbec aromas are mulchy and earthy at first, then gritty abv: 13.5% Price: $9 89 (Luján de Cuyo). Berry and plum aromas are like asphalt. A plump palate is on the soft and flat generous, jammy and lightly spiced and bring a wild side, with low to medium acidity. Blackberry and Skroo One 2019 Malbec (Mendoza). Dark- animal note into play. A full and flush mouthfeel blueberry flavors slip away on a full and chunky fin- 84 berry aromas come with hints of cinnamon supports spicy plum, currant and raspberry flavors. ish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. and hand soap. The palate is full and grabby due On the finish, dry spice notes and a composed tex- abv: 13.9% Price: $16 to gravelly tannins. Medicinal plum and currant ture are positives. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. flavors run a bit green, while dry residual tannins abv: 13.2% Price: $12 Zolo 2019 Gaucho Select Sustainably Farmed make for a choppy finish. Cellars 87 Estate Grown and Bottled Malbec (Mendoza). Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. Black Cabra 2019 Malbec (Mendoza). Blue- Spicy berry aromas are a touch jammy and herbal, abv: 13% Price: $10/1.5 L 88 berry and cool herbal aromas set up a flush with notes of animal and wild brush. A pulpy palate balanced by bright acidity. Dark plum and mouthfeel is on the soft side, while this tastes of Tenorio 2019 Single Vineyard Reserva Malbec spicy berry flavors are standard but tasty and well dark plum and berry fruits prior to a solid but plod- 82 (La Rioja). Stewy berry aromas are green presented. A finish with herbal and peppery spice ding finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. and grassy, while this is raw, saucy and sharp on the notes closes out this solid Malbec. Vino Del Sol. abv: NA Price: $15 palate. Shallow red plum and tart berry flavors are Best Buy. —M.S. equally green, while that dominating herbal charac- abv: NA Price: $10 Alta Vista 2019 Vive Malbec (Mendoza). ter carries over to a finish with no richness. EcoVal- 86 Earthy berry aromas clean up with airing, ley. —M.S. Ceibo 2019 Estate Bottled Sustainably while this is rather lean and angular in feel. Tart abv: 13.5% Price: $10 88 Farmed Malbec (Mendoza). Foxy wild berry plum and currant flavors finish bright and a bit aromas are jumpy in front of a juicy mouthfeel that’s salty, with crisp lasting acidity maintaining fresh- a bit hot and rough. Mixed black fruit flavors fea- ness. Kobrand. —M.S. CABERNET SAUVIGNON ture a peppery, slightly charred backing. Said pep- abv: NA Price: $12 pery spice drives an edgy finish. Vino Del Sol.Best Luna de Finca la Anita 2017 Single Vineyard Buy. —M.S. Bodega Norton 2019 1895 Colección Malbec 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Agrelo). Ripe plum abv: 13.9% Price: $10 86 (Mendoza). Dusty plum and berry aromas and blackberry aromas come with hints of tar and are generic and easygoing. A plump and jammy pal- fresh asphalt. A snappy mouthfeel based on healthy Profesión 2018 Malbec (Uco Val- ate is chunky and a bit scratchy, while this every- fruit is full but not ponderous, while this tastes of 88 ley). Blackberry and black plum aromas day Malbec tastes of saucy plum and berry fruits ripe blackberry and cassis that yield to prune in are a touch fiery and gritty in front of a full-bodied prior to a finish that leaves lighter raspberry and red front of a well-formed finish with no loose edges. palate with chunky weight and moderate acidity. plum notes. Kobrand. —M.S. Drink through 2023. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S. Shallow but bold dark berry and black plum flavors abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 finish short but solid. Consortium & Spirits LLC. —M.S. Mi Terruño 2019 Uvas Malbec (Mendoza). Mendel 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- abv: 14% Price: $18 86 Herbal, plum and berry aromas lead to a 90 doza). Plum and berry aromas are mossy, medium-bodied palate that’s more fleshy and pulpy with notes of asphalt, olive and even roasted nuts. Terrazas de Los Andes 2017 Parcel N°1E El than defined. Grapy plum and berry flavors come The mouthfeel on this Cabernet is big and saturated 88 Espinillo Malbec (Gualtallary). Earthy berry with a slight herbal green hint as well as a dash of but airtight in terms of structure. Ripe plum and and plum aromas lack expression regardless of how cumin. On the finish, this shows controlled rawness cassis flavors are mildly spicy, while this is sappy much air this gets. Saucy acidity sits atop the pal- and burn. Copa Fina Imports CA. —M.S. and broad on the finish, with a note of char from ate, which tastes of herbal tomato, red plum, cur- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 toasty oak. Drink through 2025. Vine Connections. rant and raw oak. Tomatoey acidity returns on a —M.S. finish that’s slightly green as well as raisiny tasting. Wellsley Farms 2019 Gran Seleccion Malbec abv: 14.4% Price: $25 Something isn’t quite clicking with this high-end 86 (Mendoza). Leafy currant and raspberry aromas are lightly green and floral. On the palate,

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BUYINGGUIDE

Proemio 2018 Reserve Single Vineyard Cab- flavors of plum skins and tomato are backed by a berry, cassis and licorice lead to a full palate that’s 89 ernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Earthy plum scrubbing finish. Wein Bauer Inc. —M.S. both creamy as well as hard-driving and prodding. and berry aromas start out cool, damp and spicy abv: 13% Price: $10 Fully ripe blackberry and cassis flavors are a touch before turning mostly to toasty blackened oak. This jammy in front of a finish that collapses as soon as hits hard with mouthcoating tannins, while toasty the wine’s acidity peters out. This is 60% Malbec oak dominates a flavor profile filled out by standard PINOT NOIR with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. Drink blackberry and cassis. Fittingly, this is tough and through 2023. WISD LLC. —M.S. pulling on an intense finish where a strong oak char- Verum 2019 Pinot Noir (Alto Valle del Río abv: 15% Price: $36 acter persists. R&B Wine Imports. —M.S. 88 Negro). Delicately light berry and plum abv: 14.4% Price: $18 aromas are in the lead, while this Patagonian Pinot Puro Uno 2012 The Mega Artist Series (Men- is lean and agile in body, with moderate acidity. 92 doza). This blend of Malbec, Syrah and Cab- Doña Paula 2018 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- Cherry, red plum, tomato and spice flavors finish ernet Franc opens with raisiny black fruit aromas 88 gnon (Luján de Cuyo). Solid plum and berry with clarity. Overall, this is fresh and more than that reflect the warm conditions of 2012. A full aromas set up a palate that’s dry and a bit raw and competent. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. palate with choppy dry tannins deals fully ripe and rugged. Standard blackberry and dark plum flavors abv: 13% Price: $NA slightly baked black fruit flavors along with spice are touched up by light oak, while this Cabernet notes. A toasty finish with lingering spicy accents includes a note of spiced savory meat pie on a crisp Bodega Chacra 2019 Barda Pinot Noir (Pata- concludes this drink-now heavyweight. Puro Uno finish. Prestige Beverage Group. —M.S. 87 gonia). Plummy red berry aromas include Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $14 notes of oak grain, paint and vanilla. A medium to abv: 15.5% Price: $195 full palate is undemanding, while plum and rasp- Viña Cobos 2018 Felino Cabernet Sauvignon berry flavors are short and slightly chemical before Algodon 2012 Pima (Mendoza). A cloudy bur- 88 (Mendoza). A fiery initial blast of alcohol disappearing quickly on the finish. Kobrand. —M.S. 91 gundy color and aromas of prune, raisin and and spicy berry and plum fruit settles on lightly abv: 12% Price: $30 plum set up a saturated palate that’s a bit flat in green and herbal, sort of like mild eucalyptus. A feel. Rich flavors of prune, raisin, fig and chocolate midsize-plus palate is lean in the middle, while fla- Aranwa 2019 Pinot Noir (Patagonia). A finish with the softness of a ripe and mature Malbec vors of currant, cherry and green herbs finish with 86 pinched and gritty nose is shy on fruit aro- blend at peak or slightly past its prime. Drink now. a touch of buttery oak. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. mas and requires airing to freshen up. A tight palate MyWinesDirect Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 is limited in scope and breadth, while this tastes of abv: 14.5% Price: $100 plum, currant and tomato. On the finish, this leaves DiamAndes 2018 de Uco Cabernet Sauvignon a mild burning sensation. BuenaVida Imports. Bressia 2014 Conjuro (Mendoza). Ripe aro- 87 (Uco Valley). Savory dark-berry aromas are —M.S. 91 mas of blackberry, herbs and spices open this spicy. Next, this is full and firm, with grabby tan- abv: 13% Price: $12 blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. nins. Dark plum and black currant flavors are pep- The palate is saturated but kicking, with tannic bite. pery and lightly herbal and finish with a note of Salentein 2019 Portillo Estate Bottled Pinot Peppery blackberry and cassis flavors are slightly grilled meat on a fiery finish. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. 86 Noir (Uco Valley). Dusty red plum and cur- stalky before dissipating on a brisk finish. Drink abv: 14% Price: $NA rant aromas are easy to peg as Pinot Noir. A grainy- now. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. feeling palate with chewy tannins deals flavors of abv: 14.5% Price: $121 Profesión 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Uco spiced cherry and raspberry, while this displays 86 Valley). Fiery berry fruit aromas include mild burn and a vague note of buttery oak on the Alta Vista 2013 Alto (Mendoza). Aromas notes of cumin and other dried spices. This Cab- finish. Palm Bay International.Best Buy. —M.S. 90 of raisin and prune lead to a dense palate ernet is rough and rowdy, with broad tannins that abv: 14% Price: $11 that’s rich and on the heavy side. Raisin, prune clamp down hard. Black fruit flavors are spicy, and spice cake flavors finish jammy, with chocolaty roasted and oaky, with chocolaty leftovers on the Padrillos 2019 Pinot Noir (Mendoza). Spicy notes. This is 88% Malbec and 12% Cabernet Sau- finish. Consortium & Spirits LLC. —M.S. 85 currant and leathery aromas are a touch vignon from a ripe, warm year. Drink now. Kobrand. abv: 14% Price: $18 green, while this feels plump but static. Herbal —M.S. plum and red berry flavors finish light, spicy and abv: 15% Price: $85 Malma 2018 Finca La Papay Cabernet Sauvi- slightly mulchy. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. 85 gnon (Patagonia). Murky aromas of earthy abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Colección Quinquela 2018 Motivo de Puerto plum and dried leaf are a bit muddled. This Patago- 90 Single Vineyard Red Blend (Famatina Val- nian Cab is edgy and choppy in feel, with raw tan- ley). For full review see page 16. nins. Plum and berry flavors are medium ripe, while RED BLENDS abv: 13.5% Price: $35 this tastes a touch stalky on a finish that feels thick and grapy. Vias Imports. —M.S. Bodega Norton 2016 Gernot Langes (Luján Doña Paula 2018 Estate Black Edition (Luján abv: 14.5% Price: $14 93 de Cuyo). Boysenberry and blueberry aro- 90 de Cuyo). Aromas of wild brush, black olive, mas are pure and ripe, a positive sign given that rubber and wild blackberry comprise the nose. This Funckenhausen 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon the 2016 vintage was marred by El Niño rains. An Malbec-led blend feels lively and fresh, with black- 83 (Mendoza). Modest ripeness on the nose extracted palate delivers chewy tannins but also berry, cassis and lightly toasted flavors. A steady is confirmed and amplified on a strict, punchy pal- bright acidity, meaning this blend of Malbec, Caber- finish offers no significant changes as it fades with ate. Spicy red fruit flavors of currant and sour plum net Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon is in great shape. ease. Prestige Beverage Group. Best Buy. —M.S. show a peppery green element prior to a tight finish. Blackberry, cassis, chocolate and baking spice fla- abv: 14.1% Price: $14 Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. vors finish with commendable integration. Drink abv: 13.9% Price: $15 through 2025. Kobrand. —M.S. Alpamanta 2018 Campal (Mendoza). A abv: 14.9% Price: $105 89 dark-purple color and reduced aromas of Finca La Escondida 2018 Cabernet Sauvi- wild berry fruits and black olive are earthy and a bit 82 gnon (Mendoza). Skimpy red fruit aromas Domaine Bousquet 2018 Ameri Single Vine- funky. A jammy palate is naturally plump but way- open this hard and tannic Cab with little depth. Dry 92 yard Made with Organic Grapes (Tupungato). ward, without much tannic structure. Mixed berry Initially aggressive and slightly hot aromas of black- flavors are jammy and wild, with a baking spice off-

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 set. On the finish, this blend of Malbec with 11% with spicy Southeast Asian cuisine. Little Peacock Merlot and Cabernet Franc offers hints of freshly ROSÉS Imports. —C.P. ground nutmeg and cocoa. T. Edward Wines Ltd. abv: 12% Price: $25 —M.S. Domaine Bousquet 2020 Made With Organic abv: 14.5% Price: $22 87 Grapes Rosé (Tupungato). Dusty, yeasty aro- Torbreck 2019 Woodcutter’s Semillon mas show notes of orange peel and cantaloupe. This 91 (Barossa Valley). One of Torbreck’s most Kaiken 2018 Series Cabernet Sauvi- feels round and pleasant, with a bolt of helpful acid- affordable reds, this is a rich, chocolaty winter 89 gnon-Malbec-Petit Verdot (Los Chacayes). ity. Slightly salty and bitter flavors of orange and warmer with plenty to like. Aromas of cranberry, Tight, gritty aromas of tire rubber, asphalt and lem- nectarine carry over to a mostly fresh finish. WISD plum, beetroot, cocoa and savory herbs and spices ony oak comprise a pointy nose. A hard and nar- LLC. —M.S. lead into a powerful, mouthcoating palate. Tannins row palate shows a mix of rocky tannins and choppy abv: 12.5% Price: $13 are dusty and chewy, lightened by a lift of acidity acidity, while dark-berry flavors play out on an alert and juicy fruit. There’s a lick of oak showing here— finish. This is Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller Doña Paula 2020 Early Rosé (Men- more so than on the previous vintage. A plate of amounts of Malbec and Petit Verdot. Guarachi Wine 86 doza). Light aromas of orange peel, crushed protein is recommended. Delicato Family Wines. Partners. —M.S. vitamins and tomato leaf set up a palate that’s —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 fleshy on the surface but hollow down below. Salty abv: 13% Price: $20 flavors of red apple skins and peach pit fade away quickly on a mild finish. Prestige Beverage Group. Seppeltsfield 2019 Riesling (Eden Valley). CHARDONNAY Best Buy. —M.S. 90 This historic estate is famed for extremely abv: 12% Price: $9 old fortified wines, but its newly released table Domaine Bousquet 2019 Gran Made With wine range provides solid modern Barossa tipples at 88 Organic Grapes Chardonnay (Uco Valley). Rutini 2019 Destino Rosé de Malbec (Men- affordable prices. The Riesling is bright and spritzy, Aromas of pear and honeydew are ripe and include a 85 doza). A yeasty veil covers pinched aro- jumping from the glass with lemon-lime sherbet hint of vanilla. This Chardonnay feels melony, with mas of citrus, cumin and sweat. The palate on this aromas and softer honey and flower blossom char- moderate acidity. Flavors of yellow apple and melon Malbec rosé is lightly citric, while mild orange and acters. The palate is both slippery and chalky as are fine but minimal in complexity and scope, while melon flavors don’t rise above basic. Skins-based well as clean and fruity but still bouncy and bright. this feels a bit heavy on the finish, which makes bitterness surfaces on the finish. Wood Wines A straightforward, likable drop. Legend Imports. sense given its 15% abv. WISD LLC. —M.S. Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. —C.P. abv: 15% Price: $20 abv: 12.2% Price: $10 abv: 12.5% Price: $22

Domaine Bousquet 2019 Cameleon Signa- Zolo 2020 Signature Sustainably Farmed Château Tanunda 2019 Grand Barossa Dry 87 ture Made with Organic Grapes Chardonnay 84 Estate Grown and Bottled Rosé (Mendoza). 89 Riesling (Barossa). Gentle aromas of cit- (Tupungato). Generic white fruit aromas of apple Notes of melon, pumpkin and citrus peel comprise rus zest, flint and a slight nuttiness open on this and pear are standard but clean. On the palate, this a wan nose, while this feels chunky and creamy on a straightforward Riesling. The palate is creamy with high-alcohol Chardonnay (15% abv) is round and palate that’s low on spunk. Stalky, yeasty flavors are enough acidity to keep it refreshing. Citrus, nut and creamy. Oaky melon and apple flavors are a touch nondescript, while this hints at cantaloupe on the a slight caramel flavor carry through to the finish. flabby through the finish. WISD LLC. —M.S. finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. AUSA Pacific. —C.P. abv: 15% Price: $17 abv: NA Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $20

Bodega Norton 2019 Reserva Chardonnay Rutini 2019 Destino Insight Rosé (Mendoza). 86 (Mendoza). Aromas of white flowers, but- 83 Gritty aromas are more acrid than fresh and CABERNET SAUVIGNON ter, woody oak and generic white fruits set up a fruity, while the palate on this rosé is mildly citric basic palate with just enough acidity to keep things at first then flat. Generic nectarine and orange juice Penley Estate 2019 Phoenix Cabernet Sauvi- in balance. Barely ripe apple and melon flavors are flavors lose clarity as early onset oxidized notes 94 gnon (Coonawarra). For full review see page a touch stalky and salty, while this feels diluted on settle in on the finish. Wood Wines Imports. —M.S. 7. Cellar Selection. the finish. Kobrand. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $9 abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Château Tanunda 2017 50 Year Old Vines Terrazas de Los Andes 2019 Reserva High AUSTRALIA 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Barossa). This tradi- 83 Altitude Vineyards Chardonnay (Mendoza). tional bottling opens with a deep well of rich, win- Harsh aromas of matchstick, burnt popcorn and WHITE WINES ter warming aromas: cassis, plum, chocolate, bay, stalky apple lead to a palate with little to no grip eucalyptus, graphite, and peppery spices. The palate or elegance. Shallow buttered apple and white pep- Jasper Hill 2018 Georgia’s Paddock Riesling is rich and muscular but with restraint and a tang per flavors finish with stalky notes. Nothing about 94 (Heathcote). For full review see page 6. Edi- of fruit that offers much needed freshness. Tannins this Chardonnay impresses. Moët Hennessy USA. tors’ Choice. are broad-shouldered and dusty with myriad spices. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $37 Drink now with rare steak or roast mushrooms, or abv: 14% Price: $22 cellar until 2035, at least. AUSA Pacific. —C.P. Alkoomi 2019 Riesling (Great Southern). abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Funckenhausen 2019 Chardonnay (Men- 93 This is a tasty vintage of a classic Great 82 doza). This large-format Chard opens with Southern Riesling. Lifted, delicate aromas of fresh Hollick 2019 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon almost no color and lean aromas of white fruits lemon-lime, lavender and talcum powder with a 91 (Coonawarra). A classic Cabernet nose, this and swimming pool chlorine. Briny apple and green whiff of honey lead to a long, harmonious palate. is medicinal and herbal, with notes of olive, currant onion flavors dissipate on a watery finish. Global A crunch of acidity makes the citrus fruit feel tin- and tobacco leaf. There’s a cool winter berry vibe Vineyard Importers. —M.S. gly. Ginger spice and textural layers add complex- about it. Tannins are powerful, spicy and talc-like abv: 13.3% Price: $15/1 L ity. Bone-dry, this would make an excellent pairing in texture, nicely weaving together the red fruit and

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BUYINGGUIDE acidity. A big wine for tannin lovers but one that 120-year-old bush vines in heavy red clay soils. The wine to drink now with protein until 2030. Delicato maintains harmony. Serge Doré Selections. —C.P. nose is a heady combo of dried plums, toasty oak, Family Wines. —C.P. abv: 14.9% Price: $40 cherry cola, cloves and myriad other spices. Bar- abv: 15% Price: $100 rel influence dominates on the granular palate, but Hollick 2018 Ravenswood Cabernet Sauvi- through the cracks peeks silky, concentrated fruit 91 gnon (Coonawarra). This is a polished Cab and baking spice. It somehow manages a semblance SHIRAZ that showcases Coonawarra’s regional personal- of elegance amid the power. A singular Grenache ity with characters like mint, blue and purple fruit that will appeal to big red drinkers. Drink until Yangarra 2017 Ironheart Shiraz (McLaren and pencil shavings, all backed by chocolate, vanilla 2030. Powell & Son. —C.P. 96 Vale). Lucid and expressive, this opens with and toasty oak. There are bundles of tangy fruit abv: 15% Price: $250 a mélange of aromas: cherry and currant, sweet and in the mouth, wound by powerful, drying tannins savory spices, chocolate, floral and mineral base and a spicy note to the finish. If drinking now, have Adelina 2018 Grenache (Clare Valley). This notes. The palate follows suit just as you’d expect, protein and at hand, or ideally wait until 88 wine’s label may be slightly provocative, with a lovely juxtaposition between elegance and 2035. Serge Doré Selections. —C.P. but the wine inside isn’t. It’s straightforward, fruity crunchy red berries tempered by taut, fine, highly abv: 14.5% Price: $55 and without pretense. There’s a touch of something textural tannins. A spiciness lingers. Drink now savory, but this is really all about the bouncy red with rustic, meaty autumn and winter dishes, or Hollick 2019 The Bard Cabernet Sauvignon berry aromas. The palate is light to medium in cellar until 2035, at least. Jackson Family Wines. 88 (Coonawarra). This ruby-hued Cab is ini- weight, round and open with plush yet juicy fruit. —C.P. tially soft and fruity, with bright cherry fruit, euca- Tannins are drying and a little bitter. Still, this abv: 14.5% Price: $110 lyptus, tobacco leaf and an underbelly of peppery is a user-friendly, modern Grenache. Wine Dogs spice. The palate is on the lean and mean side, with Imports LLC. —C.P. John Duval Wines 2017 Eligo Shiraz shrill acidity that feels jarring after the eager charm abv: 13.3% Price: $40 94 (Barossa). For full review see page 7. of the nose. There are distinct Cabernet tannins, abv: 14.5% Price: $100 chalky, taut and spicy, and a purity of fruit, but not enough to add flesh to the bones. Serge Doré Selec- MOURVÈDRE Seppeltsfield 2018 Shiraz (Barossa Valley). tions. —C.P. 94 For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.8% Price: $25 John Duval Wines 2018 Annexus Mataro abv: 15% Price: $22 94 (Barossa Valley). Duval’s Annexus wines are different each year, neatly showcasing the natu- Penfolds 2018 Bin 128 Shiraz (Coonawarra). GRENACHE ral vintage variation of the region he knows so inti- 93 This is a rich Shiraz from Coonawarra’s mately. The 2018 unravels like a ball of twine, first terra rossa soils. Heady notes of plum, currant, bak- Yangarra 2018 Ovitelli Grenache (McLaren with earthy, green herbal notes, then licorice and ing spice, mint and licorice have an earthy, savory 97 Vale). Yangarra’s fourth-ever bottling of cherry cola, then black currant and a slightly metal- underbelly as well as a polish of toasty oak. Tannins concrete-egg-fermented Grenache from biodynamic lic, sanguine nuance, like a slab of raw steak on a are powerful but finely structured, pinning the fruit bush vines planted in 1946 is as elegant and ethe- steel cutting board. There’s tang and freshness to into place. A big, steak-friendly wine from a solid real as it gets. The color of rosy cheeks, it pulses the palate with makes it feel less dense even while vintage with high-gloss appeal. Drink now–2030. with raw beauty: pure red berry and plum fruit wound in muscular tannins. A Mataro (aka Mourvè- Treasury Wine Estates. —C.P. etched with delicate floral notes and savory, earthy, dre) of precision and finesse that walks a tightrope abv: 14.5% Price: $40 briny nuances. Tannins are gorgeously textured, of elegance and power. Drink now with said steak sappy and fine with understated power. The fruit until 2030. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P. Powell & Son 2017 Barossa & Eden Valleys crackles, silky and sexy. A singular, site-expressive abv: 14.5% Price: $60 93 Shiraz (Barossa Valley). When it comes to wine of precision and grace. Easily one of Australia’s Powell & Son’s large range of premium Shiraz, this best Grenaches. Drink now–2030. Jackson Family Chapel Hill 2018 Mourvèdre (McLaren Vale). is your best bang-for-buck bottling. It showcases Wines. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. 93 This is an oh-so-Aussie expression of the best from Eden and Barossa with a personality abv: 14.5% Price: $55 Mourvèdre (or Mataro, as it’s sometimes known lacking in some of the more polished, oak-driven Down Under) showcasing the prowess of the vari- wines. Aromas are lifted, vegetal and spicy: green Yangarra 2017 High Sands Grenache ety on its own. The nose is a deep well of dark ber- peppercorn amid red berry, cranberry, subtle spices 95 (McLaren Vale). 2017 was a comparatively ries, plums and cedar with fistfuls of herbs and and minerals. The palate is powerful but shows cool vintage, which has ramped up the elegance and hints of black olives and toasty oak spice. There’s freshness and restraint. Tannins are fine and well freshness factor on Yangarra’s most premium and lovely freshness on the palate, silky fruit and pow- integrated with the crunchy fruit and peppercorn renowned wine. Compared with the raw beauty and dery, well-integrated tannins. A full-flavored, win- spice. Drink now–2035. Powell & Son. Editors’ pure joy of the Ovitelli Grenache (which is half the ter warmer wine that avoids feeling overly rich or Choice. —C.P. price), this is a more polished wine, set for time in heavy. American Estates Wines, Inc. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $56 the cellar but also drinking beautifully now. The abv: 14.5% Price: $38 floral characteristics shine alongside brambly fruit Yalumba 2016 The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz and soft savory, mineral aromas. The palate is open- Torbreck 2017 The Pict Mataro (Barossa 93 (Barossa). The vines for this premium Shi- knit, with juicy berries washing over the tongue, 92 Valley). This Mataro (Mourvèdre) offers raz date on avergae to 1936, with some going back to followed by a tug of highly textural and precise all of the charm and polish of Torbreck’s fine red 1854. From French and American staves coopered tannins. Drink now–2030. Jackson Family Wines. wines, with the price tag to go with it. The cooler on site, Octavius offers an evocative and multifac- —C.P. 2017 vintage adds a lovely lift and elegance to this eted nose with everything from currants, licorice abv: 14% Price: $100 wine. Cherry cola and vanilla mingles with rasp- and mocha to cedar, bay leaf and clove. The palate berry and black currant with a varietal character is powerful and lean at the moment, with elevated Powell & Son 2017 Brennecke Grenache of dried herbs and spices there, too. Tannins are acidity and taut, slightly woody tannins. There’s a 91 (Barossa Valley). At 15% alcohol even in a taut and sinewy, nicely juxtaposing the silky, juicy nice tang to the fruit. It’s hard to predict how this relatively cool vintage like 2017, this is a power- fruit. There’s a good lick of high-end oak showing at will age, but the hope is it’s got another decade left ful, polished Grenache made by former Torbreck the moment, but overall this is a precise, balanced in it at least. Negociants USA–Winebow. —C.P. winemaker David Powell and his son Callum from abv: 14.5% Price: $135

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Powell & Son 2017 Loechel Shiraz (Eden Val- amid a soft line of spicy tannins. Drink now–2028. Aussie red blend. 2017 was a fairly cool vintage and 92 ley). Despite the relatively cool climes of the Treasury Wine Estates. —C.P. it shows here. More elegant, lucid and fruit driven Eden Valley and the lift of red fruit they provide, abv: 14.5% Price: $40 than the ’18, this may not age as long but it’s drink- this is a big, rich wine with quite a lot of oak influ- ing pretty darn well now. Notes of cherry, blueberry, ence. Strawberry and cherry fruit is ensconced in Paxton 2019 Now Made With Organic Grapes licorice, violet and five-spice powder are wound in minty, chocolaty barrel characters. The palate is 87 Shiraz (McLaren Vale). This is, hence the sappy, savory tannins that have lovely texture and equally oak-driven, particularly on the finish. But name, a drink-now style with no added sulfites. integration. A powerful but harmonious wine that there’s a silkiness and freshness to the fruit, and It’s a clean wine but stylistically it feels confused, should age gracefully until 2035. Majestic Imports. tannins are textural and well structured. This is wanting, perhaps for more whole bunch or some- —C.P. destined for the cellar and should age nicely. Drink thing to add more refreshment. Fruity and ripe, it abv: 14% Price: $150 2022–2040. Powell & Son. —C.P. leads with fleshy red berries, damp leaves, violet abv: 14.7% Price: $115 and a slight meaty note. The fruit on the palate feels Powell & Son 2017 Red (Barossa). This is somewhat heavy and syrupy even while the texture 93 a ripe, fleshy, bombastic GSM with a nose Powell & Son 2017 Schulz Shiraz (Barossa Val- is thin with plenty of acidity. Tannins are soft but you could dive into like the deep end of a swimming 91 ley). Koonunga Hill, with its rich clay soil, astringent and don’t quite jell. Cabernet Corpora- pool, backstroking in milk chocolate, ripe blueber- is an old-vine site often associated with Penfolds, tion. —C.P. ries and violets, lined with baking spice, ground which uses the name for a whole range of its wines abv: 14% Price: $20 pepper and cedar. The palate is rich, almost vis- across multiple districts. This wine is entirely from cous, in texture. There’s a woodiness amid oodles the old vines. It’s a high octane bottling, at 15% St Hallett 2018 Black Clay Shiraz (Barossa). of juicy, slippery fruit and chiseled tannins. Broad alcohol, but is a great example of the site. The nose 86 This is warm, ripe South Aussie Shiraz at shouldered, with a good lick of alcohol, this is a is a heady combo of plum, blueberry, polished oak, an affordable price. It opens with dense, slightly high-octane wine that somehow also achieves some baking spice and chocolate. There’s a sleek sheen to woody aromas of cherry chocolate and blackberry elegance and approachability. Drink now–2028. the tannins and a lovely acidity that keeps the fruit jam backed by a bit of damp earth and savory spice. Powell & Son. —C.P. fresh. Oak is very present here, too. Drink now– The plush fruit and chunky oak notes continue on abv: 14.5% Price: $50 2028. Powell & Son. —C.P. the palate, where fruit feels a little stewed and tan- abv: 15% Price: $115 nins a bit astringent. Accolade Wines. —C.P. Battle of Bosworth 2014 White Boar Organic abv: 14.5% Price: $16 92 Red (McLaren Vale). The Shiraz and Cab Powell & Son 2017 Shiraz (Barossa Valley). grapes for this are left to dry on the 90 This is a rich, old school Barossa Shiraz. 3 Rings 2019 Shiraz (Barossa Valley). This is vine for two weeks, which isn’t overly obvious since Plump fruit in the form of currants and blueber- 85 a ripe, confected Shiraz with notes of black- the wine is fresh-fruited, even with some bottle age, ries are backed by notes of olive brine, earthy spice, berry jam and vanillin oak. The palate is disjointed, and there’s a lovely raw, stripped back feel to it. charred veg and a furniture polish-and-vanilla-oak with a rush of acidity that somewhat sours the fruit. The nose is a fragrant combo of cherry cola, plums, character. The palate is dense but not overtly syr- Slightly astringent tannins angle for space. Quint- potpourri, dried mint and ground pepper with a upy or muscular. There’s quite a bit of high-gloss essential Wines. —C.P. medicinal herbal back note. The palate is straight- oak showing here but plenty of fruit and spice, too. abv: 14.9% Price: $20 forward—medium- to full-bodied with gentle, well- Powell & Son. —C.P. integrated tannins and silky fruit—but there’s an abv: 14.5% Price: $31 Yellow Tail 2019 Shiraz (South Eastern Aus- overall ease and charm about this wine that will 85 tralia). This is a straightforward, somewhat make it the first to be drained at the dinner table. Château Tanunda 2018 Grand Barossa Shi- synthetic Shiraz showing no sense of place or vari- California Beverage Co. —C.P. 89 raz (Barossa). This is a ripe Cab that opens ety. Vague red fruit, peppery spice and a plastic- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 with notes of currant, plum, tobacco and eucalyptus and-wood note lead to a palate that is thin and leaf, with a savory backbone. The palate is muscu- astringent, with some juicy fruit and tannins but Henschke 2017 Johann’s Garden G-S-M lar, with fine, savory tannins and lingering fruit fla- little structure or depth. Deutsch Family Wine and 92 (Barossa Valley). This GSM (which con- vors. This lacks the depth and finesse of Tanunda’s Spirits. Best Buy. —C.P. tains 76% Grenache) is painted with the distinctive more premium wines but is a solid drop nonethe- abv: 13.5% Price: $8 brushstrokes of the historic winery. Finessed, pre- less. AUSA Pacific. —C.P. cise, even filigree, it’s initially shy. Gentle aromas of abv: 15% Price: $23 cherry, plum, florals and baking spice and a slight RED BLENDS savory note float from the glass. The palate is full Layer Cake 2019 Shiraz (South Australia). but with elegance, and an interesting way of unfold- 88 This shows little sense of place or variety, Hickinbotham 2018 The Peake Cabernet ing on the tongue. First, the silky, tangy fruit. The but it’s a tasty drop nonetheless, especially for the 95 Sauvignon-Shiraz (McLaren Vale). This is a tannins creep in toward the end, with lovely tex- price. The nose is spicy and fruity, offering up entic- precise and highly ageworthy example of Oz’s most ture and grip. The finish is on the short side. Not ing aromas of fresh cherry, plum, bay leaf, thyme famed red blend. Fleshy plum and blueberry fruit ­Henschke’s most memorable wine but a solid and and ground pepper. The palate is on the thin, astrin- mingles with mint and other dried herbs, chocolate, ageworthy bottling nonetheless. Drink until 2030. gent side but with just enough texture and tannin bay leaf and peppery spice. The barrel influence is Negociants USA–Winebow. —C.P. structure to keep the fruit in balance. Deutsch Fam- there, too, but it’s better integrated than in the past. abv: 14.5% Price: $66 ily Wine and Spirits. —C.P. At the moment the palate is a beast, with oodles of abv: 14.9% Price: $16 fruit and spice and muscular, chalky tannins, but D’Arenberg 2017 The Ironstone Pressings G-S- there’s chisel, finesse and a lengthy finish—all the 91 M (McLaren Vale). This vintage of Ironstone Penfolds 2018 Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz (South trimmings of a harmonious wine set for the long is as muscular and tannic as always, but perhaps 88 Australia). Penfolds’s oldest bin label is haul. Drink until 2040. Majestic Imports. Cellar due to the cool vintage, there’s more elegance and an old school, American oak-laden wine. The nose Selection. —C.P. layers here than in previous years. It takes time in hides the barrel influence somewhat with layers abv: 14% Price: $150 the glass to open up, slowly revealing fleshy berries, of mint, licorice, mocha and baking spice aromas licorice, florals, peppery spice and vanillin oak aro- propping up plump plum and dark cherry fruit. The Hickinbotham 2017 The Peake Cabernet Sau- mas. The palate is tightly wound, cinched by mas- palate, however, is highly oak-driven. The plush 94 vignon-Shiraz (McLaren Vale). The Peake is sive, chalky tannins. But there’s a lovely lift to the fruit sits heavily but offers some tangy refreshment an American’s (Chris Carpenter’s) ode to the classic fruit, particularly on the finish. Drink with decanter

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BUYINGGUIDE and fatty food at hand, or cellar until 2028. Old Donum 2018 Estate Chardonnay (Russian Bridge Cellars. —C.P. CALIFORNIA 94 River Valley). This is a concentrated, struc- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 tured and complex white from the appellation, CHARDONNAY ­estate-farmed and robust in youthful power. A length D’Arenberg 2017 The Stump Jump Grenache- of lemon pith, toasty oak and grippy tannin comple- 91 Shiraz-Mourvèdre (McLaren Vale). For full Three Sticks 2018 Durell Vineyard ­Chardonnay ment mineral elements of crushed rock and apple review see page 19. Best Buy. 97 (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 3. blossom, accentuating the inherent intensity. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $13 abv: 14.1% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $75

Levantine Hill 2015 Samantha’s Paddock Donum 2018 Year of the Dog Single Vineyard Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Rued Vineyard Char- 90 Melange Traditionnel (Yarra Valley). This 96 Chardonnay (Carneros). This lovely white is 94 donnay (Green Valley). For full review see is a moderately cool climate Bordeaux-style blend light on its feet, despite its inherent power and con- page 6. from steep, low-yielding vines that delivers the centration. Tangerine, grapefruit and peach flavors abv: 13.5% Price: $55 heady aromatics of blueberry and black currant come to the fore with ease, integrated within a cra- compote, violet, pepper and medicinal herbs. The dling of toasted oak and intriguing notes of nutmeg, Red Car 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). palate is less broad and more linear, wound in taut, clove and earth. —V.B. 94 Deliciously crisp in tangerine, this lovely chalky tannins and lifted acidity. A chiseled, muscu- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 white features a pear-like creaminess on the mid- lar wine that’s fresh but also seems to be showing a palate, a complex complement that tangles through fair bit of bottle age. MHW, Ltd. —C.P. Three Sticks 2018 Alana Vineyard C­hardonnay structured, nuanced elegance. This boasts fruit abv: 13.6% Price: $143 96 (Russian River Valley). Quenchingly com- from several vineyard designates, including grapes plex in crisp lemon, lime and grapefruit, this is a from Zephyr (80% of the mix), Red Car estate D’Arenberg 2017 d’Arry’s Original Grenache- sublime, supple and seductive vineyard-designate, (13%) and Mohrhardt (7%). —V.B. 89 Shiraz (McLaren Vale). This 50-50 blend well balanced and compelling through to the end. abv: 13.8% Price: $38 of Grenache and Shiraz from a comparatively cool Textured and well integrated in oak and ripeness, it vintage, starts out fleshy, fruity and attractive, with unfurls additional components of green apple, stone Red Car 2018 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay ripe blueberries and violets at the fore, backed by and nutmeg slowly and with purpose. —V.B. 94 (Fort Ross-Seaview). Fresh and stony in soft peppercorn and earthy, savory spice. Then abv: 14.2% Price: $75 texture, this lovely, light-bodied white expresses come the tannins—chiseled, drying, granular in anise and oyster shell, with a touch of brine. Tex- texture and all-encompassing. The fruit manages Red Car 2018 Zephyr Farms Vineyard Chardon- tured and complex, it delivers plenty of nuanced to poke its head out but is soon muscled out by 95 nay (Sonoma Coast). A hearty mouthfeel apple, pear and Meyer lemon, within a foundation the massive tannins that don’t quite integrate. Old belies this wine’s quintessential and quenching of structure and grace. —V.B. Bridge Cellars. —C.P. acidity, driven by its cool-climate provenance and abv: 13.6% Price: $62 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 style. Green-apple, pear and tangerine flavors meld together easily along a midpalate of Sanford 2018 Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Greg Norman Estates 2018 Shiraz-Cabernet complex structure and length, with a lift of crisp- 94 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Ripe aromas of 88 (Limestone Coast). For full review see page ness reappearing on the finish. —V.B. melon, salted white peach and light caramel are off- 19. abv: 13.7% Price: $58 set by tense lime-pith scents on the nose of this bot- abv: 14.5% Price: $17 tling. It’s tense and deeply layered in mineral tones Anaba 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). on the palate, where oyster-shell and chalk flavors Kellermeister 2015 Ralph’s Ensemble 94 Bright and enduringly elegant, this white meet with lemon-pith and toast tones. —M.K. 88 Reserve Red (South Australia). This blend of sources grapes from several Dutton-farmed sites in abv: 12.5% Price: $55 Malbec, Shiraz and Merlot is a ripe, raisiny, woodsy addition to the Scribe property in Sonoma. Citrus bottling showing a fair bit of oak influence along and pear flavors are wrapped in baking spice and Alquimista Cellars 2017 Mes Filles Vineyard with earthy, peppery herbs and spices, dried florals brioche, never losing sight of its lively, fresh foun- 93 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). ­Lemony and eucalyptus. The palate is massive, even with dation of acidity. —V.B. crisp in lime and grapefruit, this vineyard-desig- some bottle age. Fruit is dense but fading slightly, abv: 13.5% Price: $40 nate made by Greg La Follette is acid-driven and and tannins are chewy. Give this several hours in a textured—a lovely, balanced combination of cool- decanter. Cape Ardor LLC. —C.P. Anaba 2018 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay climate style and substance. From a site in the abv: 14.5% Price: $25 94 (Sonoma­ Coast). Caramel and honey greet ­Sebastopol Hills, it shows the spice and earthiness one on the entry in a subdued richness, giving way of that fog-enshrouded region. —V.B. Maxwell 2017 Little Demon G-S-M (McLaren to laser-focused, vibrant acidity and fresh fruity abv: 14.1% Price: $57 88 Vale). This cherry-hued GSM blend is notes of pear and pineapple. Floral and balanced, it bright, open and oh-so-Aussie. Fleshy, ripe rasp- is seamless in structure and well integrated, with Anaba 2018 WestLands Chardonnay (Sonoma berry and cherry fruit lead the nose, backed by cin- quiet oak and tannin. —V.B. 93 Coast). Linear and racy in acidity, this is namon, bay leaf and ground pepper aromas. The abv: 13.2% Price: $46 a steely, elegant white with a rounded midpalate medium-weight palate is more straightforward, and accents of honeysuckle and lemongrass. Meyer with fresh berry fruit wound in savory, sappy tan- Ancien 2018 Musque Chardonnay lemon, lime and blood orange combine with bal- nins that feel a touch astringent, particularly on the 94 (Coombsville). This wine opens in insanely anced oak and tannin, finishing in a touch of baking finish. Rodinia LLC. —C.P. floral musque-driven honeysuckle, the palate follow- spice. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $22 ing through in lively, fresh waves of green apple and abv: 12.8% Price: $64 wet stone. Barrel fermented, the oak is quiet and well integrated, providing structure and substance. —V.B. Chiron Wines 2018 Nectar Dance Chuy’s Vine- abv: 14% Price: $42 93 yard Chardonnay (Moon Mountain District Sonoma County). Barrel fermented, this white is De Sante 2018 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). rich and oak-influenced, with a memorable taste of 94 For full review see page 6. pineapple upside-down cake. Sparkling acidity and abv: 13% Price: $45

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 a floral edge of honeysuckle balances and contrasts firm and fresh acidity that keeps the attention. well as fruit from other prominent sites, this wine against the richer tones and complex body. —V.B. —M.K. opens in a mix of matchstick and fresh hay. Nutty abv: 13.6% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $39 brioche and stone-fruit accent a succulent and lux- urious core of richness and weight, with a lasting Donelan 2017 Nancie Chardonnay (Sonoma Thomas Fogarty 2017 Damiana Vineyard lift of acidity. —V.B. 93 County). A blend sourced from four vine- 93 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). Soft, abv: 14% Price: $70 yards, including old vines from Farina Vineyard on creamy aromas of nectarine and apricot meet with Sonoma Mountain, this impressive white is com- warmer touches of butterscotch and crème fraîche Ram’s Gate 2018 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay plex and structured. A floral opening of jasmine on the light yet lush nose of this bottling. There’s 92 (Carneros). Steely and made in an elegant, and ginger leads to a lengthy fruit component of red a chalky, grippy texture to the sip, where a toasty refined style, this vineyard-designate impresses in apple and peach, the oak neutral and the finish fresh backdrop upholds flavors of baked lemon, macada- its grasp of stone and floral qualities: floral on the in acidity. —V.B. mia nut and sea salt. —M.K. nose and linear in vibrant acidity. Green apple, pear abv: 14.1% Price: $48 abv: 13.4% Price: $62 and Meyer lemon compound a sophisticated, tex- tured ­varietal expression. —V.B. Journeyman 2018 Chardonnay (Russian Alma Rosa 2018 El Jabali Chardonnay (Sta. abv: 13.6% Price: $70 93 River Valley). Nutty and rich in baked apple, 92 Rita Hills). For full review see page 10. this is a luscious and layered wine highlighted by abv: 14.1% Price: $48 Red Car 2018 Mohrhardt Chardonnay (Fort lovely secondary aspects of pineapple and pear. 92 Ross-Seaview). Earthy crushed rock and Lengthy and complex, it wraps in its oak compo- Bee Hunter 2017 Mariah Vineyard ­Chardonnay gravelly texture meets a crisp frontier of tanger- nents seamlessly. —V.B. 92 (Mendocino). Attractive butterscotch and ine, lime and green apple in this coastal-influenced abv: 14.5% Price: $48 ­vanilla aromas lead to tight fruit flavors and nutty, white. Earthy and slightly spicy, it reveals deft ele- toasty notes in this full-bodied and well-balanced ments of nutmeg and light, integrated oak. —V.B. Landmark 2018 Damaris Reserve Chardon- wine that is at once broad in mouthfeel and nicely abv: 13.8% Price: $58 93 nay (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page braced with tangy acidity. Best from 2023. —J.G. 9. abv: 14.1% Price: $42 Rubino Estates Winery 2018 Landmark Col- abv: 14.1% Price: $35 92 lection Chardonnay (Livermore Valley). This Colluvial 2017 Las Nenas Sierra Madre Vine- big, bold wine was made in a classic California Paradise Springs 2018 Sanford & Benedict 92 yard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Opu- reserve style, offering heady aromas of toasted oak 93 Vineyard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). ­Layers lent aromas of butter and pineapple meet with brisk and roasted walnuts, rich and deep Bosc pear fla- of ashy minerality meet with hints of lemon peel, tones of grapefruit peel on the nose of this bottling. vors and a deliciously thick texture that helps carry melon and warm cake on the pure and focused nose A compelling chalky texture frames the palate, it all through a lingering finish. —J.G. of this bottling. The palate is also laser-tight, show- where brisk lime, lemon balm and more underripe abv: 15% Price: $40 ing ­lemon and grapefruit peel, chalk, brisk green- pineapple f­lavors lead into a blanched almond fin- apple and slightly saline flavors. —M.K. ish. —M.K. Sarah’s Vineyard 2018 Estate Chardonnay abv: 13.9% Price: $47 abv: 13% Price: $39 92 (Santa Clara Valley). For full review see page 12. Editors’ Choice. Ruby Hill Winery 2017 Reserve Collection D’Alfonso-Curran 2018 Chardonnay (Santa abv: 13.8% Price: $36 93 Chardonnay (Livermore Valley). Mature and 92 Barbara County). Clean lines of lime balm, inviting honey, butterscotch, pear tart and toasted crushed limestone and crystallized pear are lightly Starmont 2018 Chardonnay (Carneros). nut flavors help give this full-bodied wine a warm, brushed with butter on the engaging nose of this 92 Both barrel and stainless-steel fermented, broad expression on the palate and a lingering fin- bottling. The palate is also a showcase of purity, this is a bright, balanced white wine that shows a ish. It is concentrated, layered and mellow, showing delivering kiwi, lemon peel and lychee before lead- juicy core of pear and apple. Lively and weighty, it what an extra year or two in the winery cellar can ing into delicate flavors of buttercream and macada- has substance and style within a context of vibrant do. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. mia nut on the finish. —M.K. acidity and earthy stone. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $26 abv: 13.4% Price: $38 abv: 13.5% Price: $22

Sanford 2018 La Rinconada Vineyard Char- Diora 2018 La Grande Lumière San Bernabe Bouchaine 2018 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay 93 donnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Clean while creamy 92 Vineyard Estate Grown Chardonnay (Mon- 91 (Carneros). Creamy and rounded in style, aromas of Meyer lemon zest, honeysuckle and but- terey). For full review see page 10. with ripe, rounded edges, this white from the great ter show on the nose of this single-vineyard expres- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 site shows a wealth of floral effusiveness and ample sion. The tense palate delivers a strong mineral kick texture. Stone fruit and green apple mingle around from chalk and chiseled stone, offering tight yuzu Keller 2019 Oro De Plata Chardonnay vibrant, lengthy acidity and nuanced oak. —V.B. and lime-peel flavors. —M.K. 92 (Petaluma­ Gap). Fresh in anise, peach and abv: 14.5% Price: $70 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 stone, this wine has a nuanced texture and crisp, mineral-driven steeliness that keeps it lively and Grgich Hills 2017 Estate Grown Chardonnay Sangiacomo 2018 Roberts Road Vineyard vibrant in the glass. Stainless-steel fermented and 91 (Napa Valley). Nutty, floral and earthy, this 93 Chardonnay (Petaluma Gap). For full review aged in neutral oak, it is a lovely take on the cool- white has a crisp entry of wet stone and earthy white see page 9. climate appellation. —V.B. flower. Exotic and well integrated, it shows a lovely abv: 14% Price: $65 abv: 14.1% Price: $35 mix of pear, mango and peach that finds vibrancy through a backbone of balanced acidity. —V.B. Spear 2018 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Kendall-Jackson 2019 Vintner’s Reserve abv: 14.1% Price: $43 93 Clean lines of grapefruit peel, crushed sea 92 Chardonnay (California). For full review see shell and an alkaline citrus pith show on the nose page 11. Editors’ Choice. Grgich Hills 2017 Paris Tasting Commemora- of this estate bottling. The lime-peel and pith focus abv: 13.5% Price: $17 91 tive Chardonnay (Napa Valley). With a touch of the palate leads into a toastier finish, yet it’s the of reduction and matchstick on the nose, this Merryvale 2018 Silhouette Chardonnay wine takes time to unfurl—its thick, rich opening 92 (Napa Valley). Made from estate grapes as notes finding a sense of lightness on the midpalate.

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BUYINGGUIDE

­Almond, apple and pineapple flavors are met by a Ruby Hill Winery 2018 Jewel Collection Series­ Amor Fati 2018 Murmur Vineyard Chardon- mineral component of crushed rock and wet stone. 91 Estate Reserve Chardonnay (Livermore ­Valley). 90 nay (Santa Maria Valley). Tart lemon, light —V.B. Butter, caramel and butterscotch nuances swirl mango and lime-zest aromas meet with hints of jas- abv: 14.1% Price: $97 through this golden-colored, full-bodied and luxu- mine and lemongrass on the nose of this bottling. riously textured wine, strongly complementing the There is tense framing to the sip, where rounded Hess 2018 The Lioness Chardonnay (Napa baked apple, honey and vanilla flavors for a very apple-flesh flavors sit atop lingering acidity, with a 91 Valley).­ An estate-grown wine given 15 rich, concentrated expression. —J.G. slightly vinous tone on the finish. —M.K. months in French oak, 35% of it new, this is a rich abv: 15% Price: $40 abv: 13.9% Price: $55 and creamy expression of the grape, opening in a hit of cinnamon stick. A luxurious midpalate is high- Saintsbury 2018 Sangiacomo Green Acres Benziger 2018 West Rows Sangiacomo Vine- lighted in brioche, green apple and Meyer lemon, 91 Chardonnay (Carneros). Honeysuckle and 90 yard Chardonnay (Los Carneros). An oaky with a balanced take on both acidity and oak. —V.B. lemongrass accent a steely core of wet stone, Meyer nose leads to a core of vanilla and tropical mango on abv: 14% Price: $65 lemon and pear in this crisp, balanced vineyard- the palate in this richly layered white wine. A steely designate. As the core of fresh citrus builds, a con- backbone of acidity helps to keep it both balanced Jax 2019 Y3 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For­ trasting note of butterscotch teases and adds lasting and fresh. —V.B. 91 full review see page 14. richness. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $34 abv: 13.2% Price: $20 abv: 13.9% Price: $54 Bruliam 2019 Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay La Pitchoune 2016 La Révolte Chardonnay Saintsbury 2018 Sangiacomo Vineyards Char- 90 (Sonoma Coast). A delicate expression of 91 (Sonoma Coast). Creamy texture supports a 91 donnay (Carneros). Made in an elegant, aus- the cool-climate site, layered and textured in ele- core of Golden Delicious apple and crème caramel in tere and refined style, this tastes of apple skin, pear gant layers, this white offers quiet tones of green this medium-bodied, richly layered white, given 16 and just a hint of peach. With well-integrated oak apple, Meyer lemon and wet stone. The oak is well months in French oak, 28% of it new. A backbone providing a foundation, it has a rich underbelly of integrated and supportive, adding a touch of body to of crisp acidity keeps it fresh and vibrant from start baking spice. —V.B. the graceful whole. —V.B. to finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.1% Price: $50 abv: 14.1% Price: $48 Santa Barbara Winery 2018 Reserve Char- Chalk Hill 2018 Estate Chardonnay (Chalk Landmark 2018 Overlook Chardonnay (­Sonoma 91 donnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Dried apple and 90 Hill). An acid-driven beginning evolves into 91 County). For full review see page 14. lemon-peel aromas meet with savory hints of dried a bigger, richer style on the midpalate of this wine, abv: 14.3% Price: $27 herb and peanut shell on the nose of this bottling. which is richly opulent in caramel, brioche and an There’s a savory streak to the sip as well, where intensity of fig. Rounded and lengthy, it has full- Lester 2018 Lester Family Vineyards Chardon- oregano adds to the dried citrus and toasted nut figured flavor. —V.B. 91 nay (Santa Cruz Mountains). Very focused flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $42 and citrus-driven scents of grapefruit and lemon abv: 14.6% Price: $26 peel kick off the nose of this bottling, which also Cooper-Garrod 2018 Gravel Ridge Vine- shows hints of lychee, melon and a metallic miner- Taraval 2019 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia High- 90 yard Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). ality. It’s tightly wound on the palate, where sharp 91 lands). Pristine aromas of gardenia lead into There’s a unique and intriguing show of terroir that lime and lemon-peel aromas lead into richer waves salted orange slices, papaya, baked nectarine and comes through each vintage on this wine. Alkaline of macadamia nut, dried herb and light toast. —M.K. yuzu spray on the nose of this bottling. There is a aromas of baking soda and lemon pith meet with abv: 13.2% Price: $37 decent tightness to the palate, where mandarin- light apricot and nectarine on the nose. The palate pith and peel flavors lead into riper peach by the combines dried lemon and pear peels with a strong Lion’s Head 2018 Panthera Chardonnay finish. —M.K. rocky character. —M.K. 91 (Sonoma Coast). Rich in an oak-driven layer- abv: 14.2% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $33 ing of caramel crème brûlée and butterscotch, this wine is lengthy and lush on the palate, with a hearty The Calling 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Copia 2019 White Chardonnay (Sta. Rita soul balanced by underlying acidity. It shows coastal 91 Bright and racy with a textured core of Meyer 90 Hills). Generously aromatic on the nose, coolness and touches of baking spice and earthiness. lemon and crushed rock, this wine impresses in its this bottling begins with floral wafts of gardenia, —V.B. balance of richness and acidity. Secondary notes of jasmine and lily as well as a bit of white-lemon abv: 14.4% Price: $45 brioche and oak come to the fore as it develops, fin- flesh. The floral tones carry through on the sip, but ishing weighty and with length. —V.B. also pick up lemongrass and coconut-cream flavors MacRostie 2018 Kent Ritchie Chardonnay abv: 14.2% Price: $30 as well. —M.K. 91 (Russian River Valley). Floral and mineral- abv: 14.1% Price: $45 driven, this white is also robust in tropical and Z. Alexander Brown 2018 Uncaged Chardonnay stone fruit, while being substantial in style and 91 (Monterey). Very clean lines of chalk, white Hess Collection 2019 Allomi Chardonnay body weight. A note of honey adorns the palate and melon and Meyer lemon peel make for a very pure 90 (Napa Valley). A rich opening of spicy oak nose and emphasizes the viscous roundedness in entry to the nose of this bottling. It’s tightly wound and cinnamon red hots leads the way to a midpalate the wine. —V.B. on the palate, moving from brisk lime to warmer of rich and rounded varietal style in this well-made, abv: 14.5% Price: $46 lychee, toast and buttercream flavors toward the value-minded wine. Delivering texture and flavor, finish, yet retaining freshness throughout. —M.K. it finishes in a viscous layering of honey and crème Ram’s Gate 2018 Estate Chardonnay abv: 14.5% Price: $16 brûlée. —V.B. 91 (Carneros).­ Floral and exotic in stone fruit, abv: 14.3% Price: $36 with a succulent midpalate, this estate white shows Amici 2017 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). a flourish of quince, peach and white fig, the acid- 90 This is a clear, focused white, balanced and J. Lohr 2019 Riverstone Chardonnay (Arroyo ity vibrantly wrapped around a firm, supple core of complex, with a lush midpalate. Apple, pear and 90 Seco). For full review see page 20. Best Buy. structure and elegance. —V.B. stone fruit combine with ease around integrated oak abv: 13.9% Price: $14 abv: 13.8% Price: $76 and a lasting thread of baking spice. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Keller 2019 La Cruz Chardonnay (Petaluma Porter & Plot 2018 Chardonnay (Central erality frames a finish of more vanilla and light but- 90 Gap). Nutty, earthy and toasty, this estate- 90 Coast). Very floral aromas of plumeria and tercream. Best Buy. —M.K. grown white has a steely undercurrent of pulsing jasmine meet with clean lines of apricot, pear and abv: 14.5% Price: $13 acidity that keeps it vibrant and fresh. Strong fla- chalk on the nose of this bottling. The chalky miner- vors of pear highlight a medium-bodied palate of ality comes through on the palate as well, balancing Santa Barbara Winery 2019 Chardonnay integrated flavors and texture. —V.B. the ripe tones of peach oil and tuberose, and finish- 89 (Santa Barbara County). There’s a focused abv: 14.18% Price: $45 ing on a bit of toast. Best Buy. —M.K. streak of rocky minerality on the nose of this bot- abv: 13.9% Price: $15 tling along with lime-blossom, lemon-balm and Ken Brown 2018 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita apple-rind aromas. The palate is very citrus-driven, 90 Hills). Toasty aromas of coconut, lemon Riley’s Rows 2018 Platt Vineyard Baby Platt showing lime and grapefruit pith, and then floral glaze and a hint of marshmallow make for a rich 90 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This tiny- waves of jasmine and plumeria take over, leading to expression on the nose of this bottling. It’s ripe on production wine from the famous coastal site is a coconut finish. —M.K. the palate with baked lemon-bar and toasty hazel- austere and steely in style, with a wealth of great abv: 14.2% Price: $20 nut flavors, finishing on buttered toast kick. —M.K. acidity. Textured and balanced, it sings in apple, abv: 13.9% Price: $38 pear and wet stone, it was fermented in both con- Vahali 2019 Jhelum Estate Chardonnay crete egg and neutral French oak. —V.B. 89 (Paso Robles). Tightly woven aromas of La Pitchoune 2016 Pratt Vineyard Chardon- abv: 13.7% Price: $39 ­honeysuckle, gardenia, Asian pear and lychee make 90 nay (Sonoma Coast). Steely and crisp in for a pleasant nose on this bottling. There is a tight green apple and pear, this balanced white also fea- Thompson 31fifty Wine 2018 Sister Sophie’s weave to the texture of the palate, where lime pith tures an intriguing note of anise. Aged 16 months in 90 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River leads into more generous flavors of plumeria and French oak, 33% of it new, it is medium bodied in Valley). Dense, decadent and lush in style, with vig- poached pear. —M.K. texture and body weight. —V.B. orously rich tropical fruit, this full-bodied wine is abv: 15.5% Price: $36 abv: 14.1% Price: $58 appealingly lush. Finishing touches of brioche and crème caramel underscore its bold, memorable Carol Shelton 2018 Wild Thing Chardonnay LangeTwins 2019 Estate Grown Chardonnay weight and length. —V.B. 88 (Sonoma County). With tiny amounts of 90 (Clarksburg). For full review see page 21. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 ­ and Viognier, this lively white is reduc- Best Buy. tive at first and showy in oak. It evolves to deliver a abv: 14% Price: $15 Valravn 2019 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). rich, rounded expression of vanilla, peach and pear, 90 Barrel-fermented and given 10 months in finishing in baking spice. —V.B. Lumen 2019 Sierra Madre Vineyard Chardon- French oak, this is an impressive and value-minded abv: 13.5% Price: $19 90 nay (Santa Maria Valley). Sharp aromas of white with wide appeal. Rounded and balanced, it lime peel and lychee are very tart and brisk on the shows structured layers of steely flint, green apple Grayson 2019 Lot 11 Chardonnay (California).­ nose of this bottling from the Sierra Madre Vine- and peach. —V.B. 88 Pippin apples and Anjou pears come to mind yard. The palate is also laser sharp and stinging abv: 13.6% Price: $20 as this generous and fruity wine spreads lavish fla- with acidity, which will mellow with time and allow vors across the palate. Dashes of vanilla and honey the grapefruit-peel and apple-flesh flavors to come Alquimista Cellars 2016 Lorenzo Vineyards add some extra interest but the pure fruitiness forward. —M.K. 89 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Hearty ­defines it. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $40 and oaky, this wine has a confectionery character abv: 13.5% Price: $10 that makes it lush and ripe in style. Honeycomb and Maddalena 2018 Estate Reserve Chardon- brioche add to the substantial intensity. —V.B. Highlands 41 2019 Chardonnay (Monterey 90 nay (Monterey). For full review see page 18. abv: 14.1% Price: $55 88 County). Crisp Asian and green-pear aro- abv: 14.9% Price: $20 mas meet with jasmine on the very floral nose of McIntyre Vineyards 2016 Block K1 McIntyre this bottling. A tightly wound citrus flavor on the McIntyre Vineyards 2018 McIntyre Estate 89 ­Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia palate unfurls into richer poached pear and sea-salt 90 Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia High- Highlands). This bottling is starting to show its age flavors.Best Buy. —M.K. lands). Dried lemon-peel, honeysuckle and kiwi a bit, with aromas of Meyer lemon balm leading into abv: 14.5% Price: $13 aromas show on the nose of this bottling from brioche and toasted chestnuts. The palate offers renowned viticulturist Steve McIntyre’s estate. flavors of applesauce, light vanilla and dried lemon Kendall-Jackson 2019 Winemaker’s Block Brisk flavors of lemon juice and light nectarine meet peels. —M.K. 88 Chardonnay (Monterey County). Toasty aro- with hints of underripe pineapple on the sip. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $52 mas of macadamia nut, coconut and light marsh- abv: 14.2% Price: $38 mallow show on the nose of this bottling. With light Nelson Family Vineyards 2019 Estate Grown tannins that float across the fluffy, pleasant palate, Mueller 2017 LB Chardonnay (Russian River 89 Chardonnay (Mendocino). Mild baked apple the wine offers seared apple and more marshmallow 90 Valley). Seamless and stone-driven, this flavors and a smooth, palate-coating texture give flavors. —M.K. wine is steely with a touch of pineapple and peach. this full-bodied wine a quiet appeal. Hints of butter, abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Medium bodied, it delivers fruity richness that is ­vanilla and peach develop on the palate and linger balanced by well-integrated acidity. —V.B. on the finish. —J.G. MacRostie 2018 Wildcat Mountain Chardon- abv: 14.3% Price: $36 abv: 14.1% Price: $25 88 nay (Sonoma Coast). Rounded and rich in caramelized apple and undeniable earthiness, this Paradise Springs 2018 Chardonnay (Sta. Noble Vines 2019 446 Chardonnay (Mon- is a full-bodied, robustly made white wine from the 90 Rita Hills). Tart lemon-peel aromas meet 89 terey). One of the more reliably overdeliv- site. The oak is pronounced and contributes addi- with light marshmallow and hazelnut on the nose of ering brands in California wine today, this bottling tional heartiness and length. —V.B. this appellation blend. Long-lingering acidity and a begins with aromas of freshly baked apple, sea-salt abv: 14.6% Price: $46 taut texture frame the elderflower and nut flavors of caramel, vanilla­ and butter. Both poached and baked the palate. —M.K. apple flavors show on the sip, where a metallic min- Michael Pozzan 2018 Giapoza Chardonnay abv: 13.9% Price: $39 88 (Sonoma Coast). Semitropical in style and floral on the nose, this is a likable white that’s

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BUYINGGUIDE smooth and simple, with understated richness and approachable and value-minded, with fruity sec- Vinum Cellars 2018 CNW Cuvée length. —V.B. ondary notes of apricot and fig. —V.B. 88 (Clarksburg). This fresh, fruity and smooth abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 13.7% Price: $22 wine offers abundant fresh apple and melon fla- vors, medium body and a soft texture lifted by just Vezer Family Vineyard 2018 Arlene Chardon- Sobon Estate 2018 Chardonnay (California). a touch of appley acidity. It’s a crowd-pleaser. —J.G. 88 nay (Suisun Valley). Almost-sweet pear and 86 This full-bodied superbuttery wine over- abv: 13% Price: $14 apple flavors are ripe and mouthfilling in this fruity flows with baking ingredients like nutmeg, vanilla and moderately spicy wine. Hints of vanilla and toast and coconut. It’s rich in texture, rather heavy on Rootdown 2018 Heringer Vineyard Chenin complement the juicy pear notes and are balanced by the palate and lets the pastry flavors take over the 87 Blanc (Clarksburg). Butter and butterscotch light acidity. —J.G. fruitiness. —J.G. aromas spill over to the palate, where buttery, abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 13.8% Price: $18 toasted flavors come with a touch of tannin in this light-bodied wine. —J.G. Wild Horse 2016 Cheval Sauvage Chardonnay William Gunn 2019 Chardonnay (El Dorado). abv: 11.71% Price: $29 88 (Santa Maria Valley). This wine is show- 86 This smooth and rich-textured wine offers ing its age a bit, yet begins with inviting aromas a creamy mouthfeel, light apple and Bosc pear fla- of honey,­ seared marshmallow, buttercream and vors and a noticeable streak of earth, almond and marzipan. It’s less lush on the palate than expected, flint. —J.G. with flavors of salted almond, roasted apple and abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Top 2018 Axis Grenache Blanc (Paso Robles). more marzipan. —M.K. 93 One of the more texturally driven white abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Frey 2019 Biodynamic Chardonnay (Mendo­ wines coming out of Paso Robles, this bottling by 84 cino). Flinty, doughy flavors dominate Stanley Barrios starts with a shy and subtle nose of Estancia 2018 Chardonnay (Monterey this dry and full-bodied wine made from certified yucca flower and honeysuckle. The tightlywoven, ­ 87 County). Lemon and grapefruit-peel aromas organic grapes, giving it an austere, smoky character grippy palate offers grapefruit peel and Meyer meet with baked apple on the nose of this bottling. and a rather lean, tight texture. —J.G. l­emon zest, leading into a long, zesty finish.Editors’­ Seared apple and Meyer lemon flavors show on the abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Choice. —M.K. simple but pleasant palate. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $48 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 CHENIN BLANC E16 2019 Baby Rattlesnake Vineyard Grenache­ Monte Smith 2017 Dutton Ranch Chardon- 91 Blanc (El Dorado). This tantalizing, dry and 87 nay (Russian River Valley). Barrel fermented Lieu Dit 2018 Chenin Blanc (Santa Ynez tangy wine offers a rather rich texture contrasting and aged, this white is meaty and full bodied, with 93 Valley).­ There’s a tremendous display of with steely, crisp flavors like Pippin apples, white a robust intensity on the palate. Peach, pineapple rocky minerality on the nose of this bottling, which pepper and lemon zest. Complexity and good bal- and fennel highlights lead to an oaky finish. —V.B. offers crushed granite, wet river stone and wet wool ance come together nicely. —J.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $28 aromas, as well as a bright sense of lemon blossom. abv: 13.7% Price: $32 The chiseled stone character carries through the Parducci 2019 Small Lot Chardonnay Char- palate, where grippy tension frames lime pith and Lion Ranch 2018 Estate Grenache Blanc 87 donnay (Mendocino). This fruity and mildly delicate honey flavors that emerge toward the finish. 91 (­Santa Clara Valley). There’s a compellingly buttery wine is medium bodied, feels pretty rich —M.K. reductive line throughout this wine that recalls and ripe and offers red- and green-apple flavors abv: 12.8% Price: $27 crushed rocks, flint and chalk from the nose to ­accented by light vanilla notes. —J.G. the palate. Singed grapefruit peel also shows on abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Lang & Reed 2019 Chenin Blanc (Mendocino). the nose and the palate is very grippy, the texture 92 This rich and mouthfilling wine from a pro- showing more prominently than the tight pome and Sand Point 2019 Chardonnay (California). ducer that has long championed Chenin Blanc offers citrus flavors.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 87 This rich and buttery wine offers an aroma wonderfully subtle and layered flavors of baked abv: 13.5% Price: $26 of buttered popcorn, flavors of cream and butter- apple, cream and nutmeg. Hints of vanilla, pear and scotch and an almost sweet texture that’s soft in peach emerge on the palate and linger on the finish. Sunstone 2019 Grenache Blanc (Santa Ynez acidity. Best Buy. —J.G. —J.G. 87 Valley). Very ripe peach and guava aromas abv: 14% Price: $11 abv: 13% Price: $30 show a slightly acetic edge on the nose of this bot- tling. Baked apple flavors are drizzled with balsamic Sketchbook 2019 Chardonnay (Mendocino). Thacher 2019 Own-Rooted Shell Creek Vine- yuzu sauce and a hint of paraffin on the palate. 87 Like a liquid apple pie, this wine revels in 92 yard Chenin Blanc (Paso Robles Highlands —M.K. cinnamon, butter and baked apple flavors carried on District). Crisp aromas of creamy pear, chiseled abv: 14.8% Price: $30 a rich texture. It’s mouthfilling, soft in balance and granite and a hint of pineapple show on the nose of seems sweet on the finish. —J.G. this bottling from a vineyard in eastern Paso Robles. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 The palate is lively and florally aromatic without ALBARIÑO being overwhelming, offering restrained tuberose Chalk Hill 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma and plumeria flavors while clinging to a taut frame. Brick Barn 2019 Albariño (Santa Ynez Valley).­ 86 Coast). This hearty white is brimming in —M.K. 92 From a newer vineyard just east of the Sta. green olive and fig, with a restrained use of oak and abv: 13.09% Price: $32 Rita Hills, this bottling begins with very fresh and lingering note of celery seed. —V.B. inviting aromas of clean pear, Meyer lemon peel and abv: 14.1% Price: $26 Sierra Del Mar 2019 Chenin Blanc (Clarks- a hint of guava skin. There’s a fun acidic bounce to 89 burg). This rich and fruity wine offers a the sip, where Key lime and lemongrass keep up a Oberon 2018 Chardonnay (Los Carneros). distinctive blend of apricot, peach and mint fla- very zippy profile. Good signs for this grape in this 86 This is a steely and highly floral white con- vors that are lifted by subtle acidity. The mouth- climate. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. taining just a smidgen of Muscat, while being soft, feel is soft if not quite sweet, leaving lingering fruit abv: 15.1% Price: $38 ­impressions on the finish.Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Edio 2019 Estate Grown Albariño (El Dorado).­ Quady 2019 Electra Moscato (California). and yellow pear, followed by a tingling sensation into 92 Floral and appley aromas lead to a rich, 88 Effusive floral and honey aromas meet ripe the finish. —M.K. rounded mouthfeel and fresh Anjou pear flavors in and mango and pineapple flavors in this low-alco- abv: 13.8% Price: $30 this generous-feeling but technically light-bodied hol, sweet and mouthcoating wine. It balances the wine. It has the broad, soothing texture of a barrel- sweetness with a bit of tangy acidity. —J.G. Tortoise Creek 2019 (C­entral fermented, lees stirred wine. —J.G. abv: 4.5% Price: $16 90 Coast). Broad aromas of yellow apple meet abv: 12.6% Price: $24 with crisp citrus peel and cold steel on the nose of Salt of the Earth 2019 Rubino Moscato this bottling. The palate packs riper baked peach Hungry Hawk 2019 Estate Reserve Albariño 88 (California). A fresh, grapey aroma leads to flavors with clean lines of lemon zest and pleasant 90 (San Diego County). Ripe Asian pear, clean sweet, vivid berry and cherry flavors that are nicely white flower.Best Buy. —M.K. pineapple and elderflower aromas show on the nose balanced by good acidity. This low-alcohol wine has abv: 13.7% Price: $12 of this bottling from the hills north of San Diego. a refreshing, charming quality even though quite Pink Lady and Gala apple flavors meet with lime sweet. Best Buy. —J.G. Blue Victorian Winery 2019 Sauvignon Blanc peel on the palate. —M.K. abv: 7.5% Price: $12 89 (Suisun Valley). Bold flavors of dried herbs, abv: 13% Price: $34 snap peas and shallots ride a smooth, possibly oak- Salt of the Earth 2019 Flore De Moscato aged texture in this full-bodied wine. There is no 87 (­California). This extra-sweet wine is indul- mistaking its varietal character, which comes in PINOT GRIGIO gent and syrupy, pouring out almost thick, hon- spades. Best Buy. —J.G. eyed, baked melon and apple flavors that are well abv: 14% Price: $14 Bargetto 2019 Regan Vineyard Pinot Grigio concentrated. Best Buy. —J.G. 92 (Santa Cruz Mountains). Clean and snappy abv: 7.5% Price: $12 McClain Cellars 2018 Savana Grace Sauvignon aromas of crystallized citrus and pome fruits are 88 Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). Slightly hazy in sharp but forgiving on the nose of this barrel-fer- the glass, this bottling begins with warm tones of mented bottling, which also offers a hint of honey SAUVIGNON BLANC honey, peach, baked lemon and a hint of wood. On dust. The palate shows green-pear and tight apricot the palate, baked apple, vanilla and oak flavors make flavors, wrapped in a grippy texture and washed by Paradise Springs 2019 Sauvignon Blanc for a rich expression, finishing on toast and nuts. refreshing acidity. —M.K. 93 (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Very light —M.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $28 in the glass, this crisp and direct bottling shows abv: 14.15% Price: $36 aromas of nectarine and peach as well as pristine Lumen 2019 Sierra Madre Vineyard Pinot hints of gardenia, plumeria and white lily on the Ruby Hill Winery 2018 Reserve Collection 90 Gris (Santa Maria Valley). Slightly honeyed nose. The palate is engaging on all fronts, from the 88 Sauvignon Blanc (Livermore Valley). Good aromas kick off the nose of this bottling, which also acidity and tense structure to the rounded flavors of concentration and a sense of roundness and full shows orange blossom, struck stone, baked apple lychee, guava skin and more white flowers. —M.K. body make this wine more than just refreshment. and a hint of wax. The palate tangs with grapefruit abv: 11.9% Price: $32 The deep apple, herb and lemon flavors are enjoy- peel before leading into roasted apple and an array able to savor. —J.G. of floral flavors. —M.K. Estancia 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Monterey abv: 14.8% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 92 County). Clean and sharp aromas of lime and pomelo pith converge with rounded nectarine Summerland 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Donkey & Goat 2019 Filigreen Farm Pinot and blooming honeysuckle on the complex nose of 88 Coast). Cut grass, margarita mix, lime peel, 89 Gris (Anderson Valley). This skin-contact this bottling. It’s tight on the palate, combining zesty light peach and a hint of smoke show on the nose of wine made from biodynamic grapes is iconoclastic Meyer lemon peel with richer elderflower flavors. this bottling. There’s a touch of oak on the palate and worth trying. A fascinating luminescent cop- Best Buy. —M.K. too, where baked lemon and apricot flavors ride a per color and a scent like kombucha lead to vibrant abv: 13.5% Price: $12 simple texture. —M.K. mandarin orange, earth and almond flavors on a abv: 13.8% Price: $16 technically light body supported by tangy acidity. It Lieu Dit 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez looks and tastes like a rosé but the winery doesn’t 92 Valley). Clean lines of chalk, lime peel and KIng Chancho 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Central call it that. —J.G. juiced citrus meet with a strongly grassy streak on 87 Coast). Dried citrus, crushed herb and wet abv: 11% Price: $30 the nose of this -esque bottling. A grippy rock aromas show on the nose of this bottling. The tension grabs hold of the palate, where pomelo palate offers lime peel, dried grass and just a hint of Estancia 2019 Pinot Grigio (California). skin and more grass tones carry into a zesty finish. garden herbs. —M.K. 88 ­Nectarine, lime-pith, lemon-blossom and —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $16 pink-fleshed-fruit aromas show on the nose of this abv: 12.6% Price: $25 bottling, which exhibits the slightest shade of pink Pomelo 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (California). in the glass. Yellow-apple-skin flavors pop on the Santa Barbara Winery 2019 Sauvignon Blanc 87 Fresh apple and lemon aromas lead to crisp, soft palate.Best Buy. —M.K. 92 (Santa Ynez Valley). Very fresh aromas of clean citrus flavors in this light-bodied, friendly abv: 13% Price: $12 ripe honeydew, nectarine, lychee and coconut flesh wine. It’s straightforward, drinkable and refreshing. make for very expressive nose on this bottling. —J.G. There is lots of zip to the sip, where pear rind and abv: 13% Price: $14 MOSCATO apple-flesh flavors ride a grippy texture into the ­refreshing finish. —M.K. Dough 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (North Coast). Electra 2019 Red Moscato (California). This abv: 14.1% Price: $18 86 Assertive herb and earth aromas lead to 90 superconcentrated and sweet red wine brothy, herbal flavors in this medium-bodied, crisp offers abundant rose-petal and jammy berry flavors Rangeland 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Adelaida and tangy wine. It’s refreshing and appetizing in a that are lifted by tangy acidity. It is difficult to think 91 District). Strong mineral-laced aromas of full-on veggie style. —J.G. of a more refreshing and lively sweet wine. —J.G. oyster shell lead into grapefruit rind and jicama on abv: 14.5% Price: $19 abv: 5.5% Price: $16 the crisp nose of this bottling. The mineral tension shows on the sip as well, as does freshly zested lemon

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BUYINGGUIDE

Oak Mountain 2019 Fumé Blanc (Temecula Donkey & Goat 2019 Gadabout (California). and a nicely viscous texture are pleasant on the 86 Valley). Aromas of wax, clay, dried citrus 92 This rich and well-balanced wine is packed ­palate. —J.G. and river water show on the nose of this bottling. with luxurious but not overwhelming toast, almond, abv: 14.5% Price: $32 There’s a strong vinous character to the sip, where butter and vanilla flavors that blend with a core of lime-peel and honeysuckle flavors arise. —M.K. Anjou pear. It’s full bodied, well rounded in texture Donkey & Goat 2018 Eliza Barsotti Vineyards abv: 13.9% Price: $24 and nicely balanced by acidity. —J.G. 89 (El Dorado). This fresh and different wine abv: 12.2% Price: $25 smells sweet-tart and offers a light, lively palate of apricot and tangy tangerine accented by hints of VIOGNIER Rootdown 2019 Es Okay (Mendocino). Intri- almond and vanilla. Light body and a light spritz in 92 cate peach, almond and pistachio flavors are the texture enhance its appetizing qualities. —J.G. Cooper-Garrod 2019 Randall Grahm Clone backed by zingy acidity in this flavorful, lively and abv: 11.3% Price: $42 91 Viognier (Santa Cruz Mountains). Broad well-balanced wine. It offers a fascinating spectrum peach, pineapple and light mango aromas meet of flavors and a refreshing, lively texture.Editors’ E16 2019 Baby Rattlesnake Vineyard with a sharp citrus-zest streak and chalky mineral- Choice. —J.G. 86 Viognier-Grenache Blanc (El Dorado). This ity on the nose of this bottling. The palate is tightly abv: 13.8% Price: $16 full-bodied wine is difficult to categorize. It shows wound, with a flinty, baking-soda-like minerality, a slight tawny tinge in its color, has a chalky min- which frames the sharp lime-peel and rounded Byron Blatty 2019 Aurora (Los Angeles County). eral-like aromas and offers a toasted almond flavor. peach flavors. —M.K. 91 Delicate white-flower aromas of honeysuckle It leans heavily toward a savory, earthy expression. abv: 15.1% Price: $39 and yucca bloom meet with crisp, aromatic apple —J.G. slices on the nose of this blend of 72% Sauvignon abv: 14.1% Price: $35 Bottle Jack 2019 Viognier (Sierra Foothills). Blanc, 18% Sémillon and 10% Viognier. There’s 90 Mineral-driven aromas of struck stone and a tang of lemon and grapefruit peel on the palate, dried earth lead into mint, lemon balm and peach with warmer yet fresh hints of mango and coconut OTHER WHITE WINES blossom on the nose of this bottling. There’s a sharp as well. —M.K. citrus tone to the sip, where mango and makrut lime abv: 13.2% Price: $37 Cole Ranch 2019 R2 Riesling (Cole Ranch). flavors met with lemongrass and tart pineapple. 94 This beautifully balanced and complex wine —M.K. Carol Shelton 2019 Coquille Blanc (Paso offers tempting toasted walnut and honey aromas abv: 13.8% Price: $28 91 Robles). For full review see page 13. followed by ripe peach and orange-zest flavors abv: 13.5% Price: $25 backed by brilliant acidity. It has a vibrant ­impact Paradise Springs 2019 Viognier (Los Olivos on the palate and a lingering finish.Editors’ Choice. 90 District). Ripe apple, pear, nectarine and McClain Cellars 2018 Open Arms (Santa Ynez —J.G. apricot elements are cut by crisp and clean lime- 91 Valley). This blend of 75% Viognier and 25% abv: 13.8% Price: $34 peel and grapefruit-balm aromas on the nose of this Grenache Blanc begins with tight citrus peel, apple bottling. The palate is tightly wound and chalky, flesh and warm nectarine on the crisp and clean Vöcal 2014 Alfaro Vineyard Grüner Veltliner with a lightly floral flavor carrying into the finish. nose. It’s taut on the palate, where yellow-apple, 93 (Santa Cruz Mountains). This is a fascinat- —M.K. sea-salt and Meyer lemon flavors pick up a slight ing look at this grape, which was grown in a cool cli- abv: 13.6% Price: $35 nutty tone on the finish. —M.K. mate and given a bit of bottle age. Aromas of mango abv: 14.5% Price: $34 Popsicle, underripe banana, botanical extracts and Boekenoogen 2018 Bell Ranch Vineyard mashed nuts show on the nose. There’s an almost 89 Viognier (Monterey). Seared peach, daffo- The Prisoner 2019 Blindfold (California). Lush greasy texture to the viscous palate, where orang dil, stone-fruit blossoms and pineapple cream show 91 fruit flavors are lavishly accented by vanilla, pith and unique Thai-like herb and spice flavors on the nose of this bottling from the upper Carmel butter and caramel in this full-bodied, soft-textured converge. It’s a very heady white wine. Editors’ Valley. There’s a steely minerality to the sip, where wine. Poached pears and honeydew-melon flavors Choice. —M.K. ­apple-blossom and tropical-flower aromas flex fill it out nicely, giving a relaxed sense of sweetness. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA against a tight textural weave. —M.K. —J.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $32 Cole Ranch 2019 Cole Ranch Vineyard Ries- 92 ling (Cole Ranch). Vibrant but smooth, this Sobon Estate 2019 Viognier (Amador County).­ Angeleno 2019 Alonso Family Vineyard elegant fruit-centered wine surrounds ample green- 87 This modestly fruity but mouthfilling wine is 90 White Field Blend (Los Angeles County). Not apple and white-peach flavors with a rich, polished flavorful and well balanced. Mild butter and cream only is this brand elevating the past and future of texture that also shows appetizing acidity. Subtle flavors mingle with Anjou pear and floral notes that Los Angeles wine, it’s using obscure, but possibly aromas of almond and ham give way to complex are typical of the varietal. —J.G. climate-right, grapes to do so. This blend of 35% fruit flavors on the palate. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $16 Godello, 35% Loureiro and 30% shows abv: 13.4% Price: $34 honey-cake, walnut-cream and hot sandstone aro- Vahali 2019 Jhelum Estate Viognier (Paso mas on the nose. It’s nutty and creamy on the rich Donkey & Goat 2018 Stone Crusher Skin 86 Robles). Ripe aromas of banana and mango palate, with cashew and baked stone-fruit elements. 92 ­Ferment Roussanne (El Dorado). This bubblegum show on the rich nose of this bottling. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. orange-hued wine practically bursts with bright Peach-custard and banana-pudding flavors come abv: 12.5% Price: $30 aromas and flavors of apricot, orange zest, leather, through on the fat palate. —M.K. heather and marmalade, while a light body, tangy abv: 15.5% Price: $36 Iron Oaks 2019 Flipside White (California). acidity and a touch of tannin gives it a pleasant 90 For full review see page 17. palate-cleansing effect.Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 11.2% Price: $36 WHITE BLENDS The Prisoner 2018 Blindfold (California). Oak Farm 2019 Estate Grown Fiano (Lodi). For De Sante 2018 The Old Vines (Napa Valley). 90 This lush, ripe and opulent wine offers bold 91 full review see page 15. 94 For full review see page 6. aromas of vanilla, butter and banana followed by abv: 13% Price: $26 abv: 13% Price: $40 plump peach and poached pear flavors. A full body

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Sidebar 2019 (Mokelumne River). Tongue Dancer 2015 Brut Rosé (Anderson Paradise Springs 2019 Pink Ash Rosé (Santa 91 This medium-bodied white wine starts with 93 Valley). This pale-pink, tangy and sophisti- 93 Barbara County). One of the better rosés of intriguing aromas of white pepper, crushed gravel cated tastes bone dry, appetizing and the vintage, this bottling, which features artwork by and apple skin that give way to a slightly rounded complex, offering subtle raspberry, ginger and cin- actor Billy Zane, begins with crisp and chalky aro- texture (from aging on the lees) and intense Pippin namon flavors buoyed by crisp acidity and impres- mas of rose and melon on the expertly crafted nose. apple, lemon and lemongrass flavors. Great balance sively tiny bubbles. It’s an outstanding first spar- There is extraordinary grip on the sip, with pleas- between ripeness and crispness shows in this wine. kling wine from this Chardonnay and Pinot Noir antly subtle melon and pluot flavors leading into a —J.G. specialist. —J.G. rose-petal finish. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $69 abv: 12.1% Price: $29

Paradise Springs 2019 L’Orange d’ Rous- Donkey & Goat 2019 Lily’s Pet Nat Sparkling Brick Barn 2019 Rosé of Grenache (Santa 90 sanne (Los Olivos District). A bronzed, 92 Chardonnay (Anderson Valley). This crisp, 92 Ynez Valley). A pale shade of pink in the golden-yellow color in the glass, this skin-contact dry and toasty wine boasts bold, freshly baked bread glass, this rosé is chalky on the nose, offering clean orange-wine spin on Roussanne makes for a com- aromas and lemon and butter flavors on a lively tex- and inviting aromas of rose petal and delicate pelling sip. Aromas of honey, copper, wax and corn- ture of tiny bubbles and brilliant acidity. It’s a fun, ­berry. It’s tight yet expressive on the palate, where meal lead into a very grippy, waxy and dry palate, bracing twist on tradition. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. an ­oyster-shell minerality meets with splashes of where dried lemon and orange peels meet with abv: 11.2% Price: $35 l­emon and watermelon juice. —M.K. chamomile-tea flavors. —M.K. abv: 12.7% Price: $32 abv: 14.1% Price: $35 E16 2019 Sparkling Rosé (Fair Play). A beau- 88 tiful copper color and rich fruit and spice Hood 2019 Rosé (Paso Robles). Hood is Four Lanterns 2019 aromas provide a great entry to this lush, broad-tex- 92 the second label for Top Winery founder 89 (­Templeton Gap District). It’s exciting to see tured wine. It offers toasted bread and baking-spice ­Stanley Barrios, and its graffiti-sporting label is this grape be embraced in Paso Robles, and there’s flavors to complement a peach and cherry core. —J.G. a nod to his South Los Angeles roots. The wine is much promise for the future. This bottling starts abv: 12% Price: $35 a yellowish-pink in the glass, offering aromas of with aromas of lime extract, Asian pear, jicama­ and chalk, orange pith and peach. The grippy, crisp pal- a hint of ash on the nose. The palate is chalky in tex- Mia Nipote Winery 2018 Sparkling ate presents flavors of Meyer lemon skin, tart pluot ture, showing orange-pith and crisp white-fleshed- 88 (Livermore Valley). Earthy aromas and and a mineral hint of ash. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. fruit flavors. —M.K. tempting prosciutto flavors give an unusual spin to abv: 14.2% Price: $30 abv: 13.8% Price: $30 this nicely mouthfilling and creamy-textured wine. —J.G. Lieu Dit 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Santa Bar- Vezer Family Vineyard 2019 Franci Estate abv: 12.5% Price: $48 91 bara County). Jubilant aromas of ripe melon, 89 Verdelho (Suisun Valley). Pungent spicy, strawberry and cotton candy make for a very floral, peppery aromas give this wine an arresting Barefoot Bubbly NV Brut Cuvée (California). appealing entry to the nose of this bottling. The pal- impression at first before generous melon and toast 87 For full review see page 21. Best Buy. ate is generous as well, showing rose-petal, jasmine flavors coat the palate. It’s an attention-getting, abv: 10.5% Price: $10 and more pink-melon flavors, balanced by plenty of ­assertive wine that wakes up the senses. —J.G. acidity and a relatively taut texture. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Bogle 2019 Sparkling Rosé (California). Fresh abv: 12.5% Price: $25 87 cherry and floral flavors give this light-bod- Bee Hunter 2017 Yorkville Highlands Semillon ied wine a jammy touch, while a rather soft efferves- Centralas 2019 Hussy Barrel-Aged Rosé 88 (Yorkville Highlands). An aroma like dried cence makes it easy on the palate. —J.G. 90 (Santa Barbara County). This is a unique hay and subtle nut and apricot flavors make this abv: 12.5% Price: $17 style of rosé, using the barrel to unleash a smokier a low-key, well-balanced wine that’s well worth edge to the 50–50 blend of Grenache and Syrah, exploring. Some crisp acidity contrasts with a touch Peltier 2018 The Gala (Lodi). This dry and and it works. Aromas of strawberry, melon and of honey on the palate. —J.G. 87 lean, bottle-fermented wine tastes refresh- grapefruit peel lead into a lightly smoked palate, abv: 13% Price: $32 ing and reserved, holding its subtle cranberry and where fatter strawberry and roasted apple flavors cherry flavors very tightly with nervy acidity and emerge. —M.K. Sidebar 2018 Kerner (Mokelumne River). crisp bubbles. —J.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $29 88 An earthy, petrol aroma and crisp, tangy, abv: 11% Price: $45 slightly herbal flavors mark this medium-bodied Summerland 2019 Rosé (Central Coast). wine as something different, and hint at the grape Barefoot Bubbly NV Extra Dry (California). 90 Fresh strawberry and lemon-pith aromas variety’s German roots. It’s more savory than fruity, 86 For full review see page 22. Best Buy. meet with chalk and Ruby Red grapefruit on the and worth a detour. —J.G. abv: 10.5% Price: $10 nose of this rosé. There’s a compelling grip to the sip, abv: 14.1% Price: $25 where rounded strawberry flavors are prominent but held in check by the texture and acidity. —M.K. ROSÉS abv: 13.8% Price: $16 SPARKLING WINES The Great Brain Cell Sacrifice 2019 Rosé of Top 2018 Joule Rosé of Mourvèdre (Paso Schramsberg 2012 J. Schram Rosé (North 93 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This slightly 90 Robles). This rosé begins with aromas of 97 Coast). For full review see page 3. Cellar ­yellow-pink bottling, which raises money for books orange peel, tangerine juice, dried peach and a hint Selection. for kids, is one of the better rosés of the vintage, of chalk and clay on the nose. There is a pithy tex- abv: 12.8% Price: $160 starting with aromas of struck stone, lemon peel ture on the palate, where those citrus components and ashy melon. It’s very crisp on the palate, with meet with a subdued red-fruit flavor that reveals a Schramsberg 2011 Reserve (North Coast). For brisk lemon-spray and pink-lime flavors, bound slightly older age. —M.K. 95 full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. ­together with immense tension. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $48 abv: 12.8% Price: $130 abv: 12.5% Price: $29 AJA Vineyards 2019 Rosé (Malibu Coast). 89 Candied cherry aromas meet with more

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­elegant lines of rose water on the nose of this some- black raspberry, light sage oil, rose petal and violet, what darkly shaded rosé. There’s a touch of roasted PINOT NOIR proving very floral and plush. —M.K. strawberry on the palate, as well as more cherry, abv: 13.9% Price: $60 with a decent tension. It’s an excellent pairing for a Three Sticks 2018 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir sunset over Malibu beaches. —M.K. 96 (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 4. La Follette 2018 Black Road Vineyard ­Pinot abv: 14.1% Price: $26 abv: 14.1% Price: $70 94 Noir (Russian River Valley). Crisp and ­varietally satisfying in deft, delicate layers of cran- Battuello 2019 Rosé of Valdiguié (St. Helena).­ Three Sticks 2018 William James Vineyard berry, pomegranate and wild strawberry, this bal- 88 From estate-grown grapes, this wine is 96 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full anced red is stemmy and earthy, accented in black acid-driven and steely, made in a light, fresh and review see page 4. tea and forest floor. It shines in both length and sup- austere style. Lemongrass, lemon peel and wet stone abv: 14.1% Price: $70 ple mouthfeel, finishing in nutmeg. —V.B. accent the palate and intrigue. The variety is a rarity abv: 13.9% Price: $58 in the New World, let alone the appellation. —V.B. Au Bon Climat 2016 Knox Alexander Pinot abv: 12.5% Price: $28 95 Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Jim Clendenen is Montemar 2016 Bentrock Vineyard Pinot the master of ageworthy California Pinot Noir, and 94 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Roasted black plum, Lion Ranch 2019 Lioness Rosé (Santa Clara this bottling, which blends the Bien Nacido and Le cinnamon and Christmas-spice aromas show on the 88 Valley). A slightly darker shade of orange- Bon Climat vineyards, will last for ages. Aromas of nose of this bottling from one of the appellation’s pink in the glass, this rosé blend of 54% Grenache, wild sage, thyme and sarsaparilla meet with deep westernmost vineyards. There’s a rugged gamy and 23% Cinsault and 23% Syrah offers dried cherry, boysenberry and black raspberry on the nose. The earthy tone to the palate, where bright boysen- cola and orange rind on the nose. The palate shows palate moves from sour plum to sagebrush, with berry flavors are pumped up with herbs and smoke. dried berry, citrus peel and a hint of savory herbs. s­avory hints of game. Drink now through 2036. —M.K. —M.K. Cellar­ Selection­ . —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $52 abv: 13.9% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Paradise Springs 2018 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Rootdown 2019 Jane’s Vineyard Rosé of Bee Hunter 2016 Docker Hill Vineyard Pinot 94 Hills). Lively floral aromas of lavender and 88 Sangiovese (Mendocino). This light-bodied 95 Noir (Mendocino). For full review see page violet meet with crisp black plum and pluot as well wine is dry, clean and refreshing. Crisp acidity and 4. Editors’ Choice. as slate and black loam on the nose of this blend of a little nip of tannin give it a very lively texture that abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Sanford & Benedict and John Sebastiano vineyards. carries lean plum and peach flavors. —J.G. It’s very fresh, lively and zesty on the palate, where abv: 12.25% Price: $23 Phillips Hill 2018 Roma’s Vineyard Pinot black-raspberry flavors are lifted by cola spice and 95 Noir (Anderson Valley). Great balance, nettle-like herbs. —M.K. Bee Hunter 2015 Docker Hill Vineyard Pinot­ pure fruit flavors and a brilliant mouthfeel make abv: 14.1% Price: $45 87 Noir Rosé (Mendocino). Although pale brassy this elegant wine a real stand-out. Tangy acidity pink in color, this full-bodied wine offers substan- and fine-grained tannins support vivid red-cherry, Phillips Hill 2018 Day Ranch Pinot Noir tial flavors beyond simply freshness. Its peach, cranberry and cinnamon flavors, making it a great 94 (Anderson­ Valley). This elegant, almost apricot and plum notes are accented by light earthy, choice for those who like their oak in moderation. taut, wine is subtle but complex, carrying a combo toasty flavors, apparently from long aging in the Best through at least 2027. Cellar Selection. —J.G. of bright, crisp red-cherry and cranberry flavors winery cellar, that add complexity and interest. abv: 13.5% Price: $48 and intricate cinnamon and cedar accents. It’s —J.G. medium-bodied, fresh-tasting and a bit tight with abv: 13.1% Price: $32 Three Sticks 2018 Cuvée Alana Pinot Noir acidity that will help it age well. Best from 2023. 95 (Russian River Valley). The inaugural vin- Cellar Selection. —J.G. Pomelo 2019 Rosé (California). This light, tage is named for both the owner’s daughter, and abv: 13.7% Price: $47 87 fruity and fresh rosé is easy to sip and enjoy, also a Sebastopol-situated site. This red is gor- offering plenty of strawberry and raspberry fla- geously aromatic in rose and orange peel. Soft and Phillips Hill 2018 Oppenlander Vineyard vors and fun floral accents. It’s nicely dry and well delicate, it is lengthy and fresh in strawberry, black 94 ­Pinot Noir (Mendocino). Inviting black-­ ­balanced. —J.G. tea, forest floor and clove. It is balanced and beauti- cherry, rhubarb and rosemary aromas lead to abv: 13% Price: $14 fully complex. —V.B. mouthfilling, juicy and vibrant fruit flavors in this abv: 14.1% Price: $95 nicely balanced, medium- to full-bodied wine. Grand Napa 2019 The Big Pink Rosé (Napa Moderate tannins and tangy acidity keep it lively on 86 Valley). Nutty and somewhat metallic on Three Sticks 2018 Walala Vineyard Pinot the palate and help carry its delicious complexity the palate, this is a hearty and full-bodied wine, 95 Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a remote estate through a lingering finish.Editors’ Choice. —J.G. with a taste of legume, earth and strawberry. —V.B. property at 1,600-feet in elevation and typically abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $43 above the Pacific Ocean fog, this is a chewy, wild and complex wine, structured in firm, elongated Phinch 2019 Chene Vineyard Pinot Noir Calculated Risk 2019 Rosé (Napa Valley). tannins. Forest-floor, black-tea and cranberry notes 94 (Edna Valley). A tad hazy in the glass, this 85 Sizzling fresh in earthy grapefruit and define its midpalate core of grip and understated four-barrel bottling of the 667 clone begins with strawberry, this medium-bodied wine becomes flat power. —V.B. aromas of cranberry, pomegranate and raspberry on the midpalate with a touch of metal and dried abv: 13.9% Price: $70 jam, as well as herbal touches of tarragon and pine herb. —V.B. needle. There’s a wild sense to the palate, where abv: 14.3% Price: $42 Bargetto 2019 Mount Eden Clone Pinot Noir black plum, crumpled rose-petal and minty flavors 94 (Santa Cruz Mountains). Muddled black- play with tea and slightly bitter herbs into the tart Essere Franco 2019 Rosé of Malbec (Yount- plum, loamy soil, dried hibiscus and dark mint finish. —M.K. 82 ville). Dark ruby in color, this wine is flat aromas make for an intense but expertly measured abv: 12.7% Price: $44 and slightly medicinal and not terribly pleasing on nose for this clonal selection. The palate’s texture the palate. —V.B. is polished and feathery, offering broad flavors of Red Car 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Fort Ross- abv: 14.8% Price: $45 94 Seaview). A light, delicate and ultimately fresh red wine from an estate site in the cool-­

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 climate appellation, this wine brims in acidity and ity and allure. It was made with 25% whole-cluster Saintsbury 2018 Donnelly Creek Pinot Noir mineral elements of oyster shell and crushed rock. fermentation and 40% new French oak. —J.G. 93 (Anderson Valley). This gorgeous, deep and Strawberry, pomegranate and a bite of tangerine abv: 14.6% Price: $78 concentrated wine overflows with black-cherry, combine with ease across a taut, complex palate of stewed plum, rosemary and strawberry flavors great length. —V.B. Donum 2018 Ten Oaks Pinot Noir (Russian ­nicely framed by light tannins and fresh-tasting abv: 13.4% Price: $75 93 River Valley). This edgy, delicately ripe wine acidity. It’s easy to love its richness, ripeness and is pushing the envelope on savory character, earthy good depth. —J.G. Red Car 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). in black tea, clove and stemmy energy. Tannins are abv: 14.3% Price: $68 94 Juicy and shimmering in wild strawberry, enveloped within the folds of the tangy acidity and pomegranate and orange peel, this is a crisp and the nuanced fruit notes of orange peel and cran- Brashley 2018 Hacienda Sequoia Vineyard persistently fresh red wine, evocative of its cool- berry. —V.B. 92 ­Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review climate bona fides. With length and balance, it abv: 13.3% Price: $100 see page 10. intrigues in whispers of black tea, cardamom and abv: 13.7% Price: $65 white pepper. —V.B. Donum 2018 White Barn Pinot Noir (­Carneros). abv: 13.1% Price: $45 93 Perfumed and effusively inviting on the Diora 2018 La Grande Majesté San Bernabe nose, this light, delicate red is earthy and stemmy, 92 Vineyard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Mon- Bargetto 2019 Regan Vineyards Reserve brimming in forest floor, clove and black tea. Plum terey). For full review see page 10. 93 ­Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Muddled and pomegranate notes are crisp and tangy. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 mulberry and peppery spices meet with a gamy abv: 13.1% Price: $100 streak of raw lamb on the intriguing nose of this Donum 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Carneros). A bottling. Ample fruit and hearty earth flavors show Joyce 2019 Submarine Canyon Pinot Noir 92 perfumed, juicy wine bold and expressive in on the sip, which recalls a pork tenderloin topped 93 (Monterey). For full review see page 8. Edi- black cherry, blood orange and wild strawberry, this with plum sauce and crumpled herbs of oregano and tors’ Choice. offers a thick foundation of profound structure and thyme. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $25 pronounced oak. Full bodied, it is intensely complex abv: 13.9% Price: $45 and powerful. —V.B. Lester 2018 Mercurio Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz abv: 14.5% Price: $80 Bee Hunter 2016 Angel Camp Vineyard Pinot 93 Mountains). For full review see page 9. 93 Noir (Anderson Valley). Minty aromas and abv: 13.5% Price: $55 Donum 2018 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir dense dark-fruit flavors are wrapped in firm tannins 92 (­Russian River Valley). This is a thick, con- and bracing acidity in this full-bodied, ageworthy Lumen 2017 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara centrated and robustly ripe red wine, intensely fla- wine. It offers well concentrated black-cherry and 93 County).­ Made by female winemaking trail- vored in dark tones of cherry and blackberry. Tannic black-plum notes that should open up to more com- blazer Lane Tanner from the Garey and Sierra Madre and oak driven, it dances around complex edges of plexity by 2023 and beyond. —J.G. vineyards in the Santa Maria Valley, this thirst- power and structure, suggesting a desire for more abv: 14.3% Price: $80 quenching wine is very light in the glass, offering aging. Enjoy this red best from 2028–2032. Cellar aromas of cranberry, wild thyme, dark sage and Selection. —V.B. Bee Hunter 2016 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley).­ rust. Brisk acidity and spicy white-pepper flavors abv: 14.8% Price: $125 93 Subtle, complex and glorious aromas and frame the dried strawberry, salumi and sagebrush flavors of black fruits, mint and oak spices give this elements of the palate. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Ken Brown 2016 La Encantada Vineyard full-bodied wine plenty to savor. Generous cinna- abv: 12.9% Price: $40 92 ­Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Roasted red- mon, nutmeg, clove and toasted oak accents weave plum and berry aromas meet with hints of hickory through the nose, palate and finish. —J.G. Montemar 2016 Zotovich Vineyard Pinot Noir smoke, baked soil and dried mint on the nose of this abv: 13.8% Price: $42 93 (Sta. Rita Hills). Clean while voluptuous bottling by pioneer winemaker Ken Brown. The pal- aromas of strawberry, star anise and cinnamon ate is quite rich, offering baked raspberry, mace and Centralas 2019 Syren Spear Vineyards Pinot Red Hots candies show on the nose of this bottling, minty herb flavors. —M.K. 93 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page which remains very fresh. Grippy tannins frame abv: 14.8% Price: $60 8. cranberry, strawberry, rose-petal and mace flavors abv: 14.4% Price: $39 on the tight palate. —M.K. Lafond 2018 SRH Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). abv: 13.7% Price: $48 92 Subtle aromas of mulberry and wild red D’Alfonso-Curran 2018 Sanford & Benedict cherry meet with smoked pork, peppercorns and 93 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Generous while Paradise Springs 2018 Founders Block San- mint on the nose of this bottling. It lands softly on crisp and clean aromas of boysenberry, dark straw- 93 ford & Benedict Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. the palate, where baked cherry and pomegranate berry and cherry paste meet with underlying hints Rita Hills). This is a superfresh expression of this flavors meet with rose petals and more mint. —M.K. of mint and baking spice on the nose of this bottling hallowed block of grapes, starting with crisp aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 from legends Kris Curran and Bruno D’Alfonso, who mas of black raspberry, pomegranate and light fen- worked with this vineyard for decades as former nel pollen. It zips across the palate with fresh red- Sangiacomo 2018 Roberts Road Vineyard winemaker for Sanford Winery. The acid-driven fruit flavors that are lifted by bay leaf and sage and 92 ­Pinot Noir (Petaluma Gap). Dark and brood- palate pops with sour cherry, tarragon, sage and wrapped in tangible tension. —M.K. ing in richly fruity layers of plum, dark cherry and pepper spices. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $79 sweet oak, this is an opulent and succulent wine, abv: 14.7% Price: $64 textured and complex in tannin structure and Rootdown 2019 Pinot Noir (Cole Ranch). An weight. Notes of baking spice, black tea and forest Donelan 2017 Tripp’s Block Perli Vineyard 93 intriguing, earthy, minerally aroma con- provide savory contrast to the ripe fruit. —V.B. 93 Pinot Noir (Mendocino Ridge). Ripe plums tinues in the flavors of this medium-bodied and abv: 14.6% Price: $70 and warm baking spices give this full-bodied wine a attractively taut wine from the tiny American Viti- generous, inviting quality while a broad texture laced cultural Area of Cole Ranch. Snappy red-cherry and Sarah’s Vineyard 2018 Estate Pinot Noir with fine-grained tannins is nicely mouthfilling. cranberry flavors meet a chalky, tangy quality on the 92 (Santa Clara Valley). Densely packed aromas Clove, cedar and rosemary notes add to its complex- palate for a sense of freshness and grip. —J.G. of boysenberry and blackberry are lifter by purple abv: 13.4% Price: $39 flowers, loamy earth and iron shavings on the nose

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BUYINGGUIDE of this bottling. It lands hearty on the palate, where plum and red-currant flavors meet with star anise ate, where tangy black-raspberry and black-plum the berry fruits are dark but still brisk and a linger- and warm clove spices on the palate. —M.K. flavors meet with sagebrush and wild thyme. —M.K. ing licorice spice leads into the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $64 abv: 13.85% Price: $55 abv: 14.2% Price: $48 Highlands 41 2019 Pinot Noir (Monterey Cooper-Garrod 2018 Two Vineyards Pinot Square Peg 2017 Riddle Vineyard Pinot Noir 91 County). The Riboli family is providing great 90 Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). An earthy, 92 (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 12. value with this newer line of wines, even in the very dry take on the grape, this bottle offers aromas abv: 13.9% Price: $65 hard-to-master affordably priced Pinot Noir cat- of dried strawberry, desiccated beef and rose-petal egory. Generous aromas of baked red plum, straw- potpourri on the nose. The palate combines smoked The Great Brain Cell Sacrifice 2018 Pinot Noir berry, nutmeg and star anise lead into a palate that’s red currant and plum with tar and black-pepper 92 (Santa Barbara County). This fundraising amply tense with prickly acidity. That balances the flavors. —M.K. wine, made by the Lieu Dit team and supporting rich stewed fruit, caramel and mint flavors.Editors’ abv: 12.9% Price: $43 the Books for Kids Foundation, begins with herbal Choice. —M.K. aromas of incense, moss and smudged green sage as abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Estancia 2016 Stonewall Vineyard Pinot well as dark cherry and plum. The palate is hearty, 90 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Scorched with roasted cherry and plum flavors alongside tart McIntyre Vineyards 2015 Block 3 McIntyre boysenberry, cola, violet, aged meats and baking- plum-skin flavors, with a delicate rosewater ele- 91 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- spice aromas mesh together on the heady nose of ment that carries into the finish. —M.K. lands). Dark in the glass, this bottling offers a very this bottling. There’s a touch of sour plum on the abv: 13% Price: $35 earthy, genuinely Burgundian nose of mud, clay, palate, where star anise and roasted meat flavors mushroom and mulberry, with a light mint ele- lead into a long, smoky finish. —M.K. Bee Hunter 2017 Pinot Noir (Mendocino). ment providing lift. The palate is quite textural and abv: 14.9% Price: $27 91 A full body and a brawny texture give this deep, showing more mulberry as well as roasted figs impressive and concentrated wine a big impact on alongside light pepper spice. —M.K. Etude 2018 Grace Benoist Ranch Estate the palate, where deep black-cherry, mint and cran- abv: 14.3% Price: $56 90 Grown Pinot Noir (Carneros). A well-made, berry flavors vie for attention. Moderate tannins larger production offering, this wine is richly lay- and good acidity add to its impression of strength Montemar 2016 Radian Vineyard Pinot Noir ered in strawberry, raspberry and black tea, the oak and power. —J.G. 91 (Sta. Rita Hills). Hearty aromas of roasted slightly sweet and toasty. Smoky overtones provide abv: 14.3% Price: $42 black plum and boysenberry meet with game, star a hint of game and earth, leading to a cohesive, anise and nutmeg on the nose of this bottling. The ­resolved finish. —V.B. Cartograph 2018 Pinot Noir (Russian River palate combines flavors of baked berry with vanilla abv: 14.1% Price: $48 91 Valley). For full review see page 13. and clove dust. —M.K. abv: 13.3% Price: $48 abv: 13.8% Price: $52 Etude 2017 Heirloom Grace Benoist Ranch 90 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Jammy with earthy, Castello di Amorosa 2018 Terra de Promissio Pennyroyal Farm 2018 Jean Sheep Vineyard savory elements throughout, this velvety, lush wine 91 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Juicy black fruit 91 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This generous, is made in a generously, brawny style. Dark red fruit leads the way to a wealth of black-tea, oak and for- mouthfilling wine offers abundant black-cherry, mingles with black tea, clove and toasted oak, full- est notes in this well-made, elegantly styled wine. strawberry and mint flavors while fresh acidity and bodied and ripe on the lengthy finish. —V.B. Good acidity keeps it fresh and lengthy, the tannins light tannins add a nice grip to the texture. It’s quite abv: 14.9% Price: $95 supple and well behaved, providing structure and flavorful, well balanced and enjoyable. —J.G. balance. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $59 Montemar 2016 Hilliard Bruce Vineyard abv: 13.7% Price: $NA 90 ­Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Boysenberry, Phillips Hill 2018 L’Air de Mer Pinot Noir mulberry, mace, star anise and sandalwood make Chateau St. Jean 2017 Gap’s Crown Pinot Noir 91 (Anderson­ Valley). Abundant toasted oak for a spicy, fruity nose on this bottling. There is a 91 (Petaluma Gap). Juicy black fruit and a hint aromas and flavors dominate this full-bodied, bold woody flavor of cedar on the palate, where dark- of black licorice dot the thick, opulent palate of this and spicy wine. Wood smoke, black pepper and raspberry, wild-mint and pine-needle elements hearty wine from a warm vintage. Dried herb, clove black cherry blend on the palate as moderate tan- converge. —M.K. and toasted oak finish in a swirl of vanilla. —V.B. nins give the texture a bit of a bite. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $48 abv: 14.9% Price: $75 abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Ram’s Gate 2018 Cellar Note Pinot Noir Colluvial 2018 Las Nenas Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Tassajara 2019 Pinot Noir (Monterey). For full 90 (Sonoma­ Coast). This wine pushes the 91 Hills). Fresh hibiscus and boysenberry-pie 91 review see page 15. Editors’ Choice. envelope in thick, tannic intensity, savory and aromas show on the nose of this bottling. Crisp and abv: 13.5% Price: $18 earthy in forest floor and black tea. The fruit is elu- tart berry flavors pop on the sip, where rose-petal sive, a hint of orange peel and cranberry coming to elements add complexity and the acidity keeps the Buena Vista 2018 Chateau Buena Vista the fore on the midpalate, boosted by lasting acid- entire package very fresh. —M.K. 90 ­Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Smoky oak ity. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $50 wraps around baked cherry and baking spice in this abv: 13.8% Price: $58 robustly concentrated and full-bodied wine, warm- Complicated 2019 Pinot Noir (Monterey climate in nature and style. The jammy rich fruit is Schug 2018 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Carne- 91 County).­ For full review see page 13. layered and lengthy. —V.B. 90 ros). This is a light-bodied, earthy and abv: 13.9% Price: $24 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 textured estate wine, brightly layered in pomegran- ate and strawberry flavors. Varietal seasonings of D’Alfonso-Curran 2018 Rancho La Vina Pinot Colluvial 2017 Sanford & Benedict Vine- clove and black tea give it complexity and a lengthy, 91 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Tart and tangy aromas 90 yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Somewhat ­savory finish. —V.B. of red plum, hibiscus and dewy herbs show on the extracted aromas of dark berries and cola meet with abv: 13.9% Price: $50 nose of this bottling, which comes from the vineyard brighter edges of rosewater extract on the nose of that’s on the same property as this winery. Blistered this bottling. There’s a depth and power to the pal- Estancia 2018 Pinot Noir (Monterey County). 89 Slightly reductive hints of tar, dried plum,

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 and crumpled hibiscus meet with hints of charcute- the nose of this bottling. Wild-sage flavors kick off Sierra Del Mar 2018 Pinot Noir (­California). rie on the nose of this bottling. Tar and wood quali- the sip, where a very sharp acidity cuts into ripe 86 This full-bodied wine shows a flinty, ties kick off the palate, where dark strawberry and boysenberry jam. —M.K. charred aroma followed by robust cherry and grilled mulberry flavors meet with oregano and rose petal. abv: 13.8% Price: $52 plum flavors wrapped in moderate tannins. It’s a Best Buy. —M.K. hearty weekday beverage. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Chateau St. Jean 2017 Pinot Noir (Sonoma abv: 13.5% Price: $13 87 Coast). This is a thick, toasty and oak-driven Montemar 2016 Rancho La Vina Vineyard red wine, with waxy red fruit at its heart. Medium Bogle 2018 Juggernaut Pinot Noir (Rus- 89 ­Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Black cherry, bodied and concentrated in flavor, it has a straight- 84 sian River Valley). Reductive and thick in purple-flower and smoke aromas make for a clean forward and ripe finish. —V.B. waxy, dry tannins, this wine is robustly ripe. It and rich nose on this single-vineyard expression. abv: 14.4% Price: $75 offers jammy black-cherry and cola flavors, with an The palate offers dark-berry jam, tarragon and men- astringent quality to the finish. —V.B. thol flavors, with a light veil of smoke. —M.K. Folly of the Beast 2019 Pinot Noir (Central abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.1% Price: $48 87 Coast). Slightly tarry aromas of cranberry, charred beef and dusty, baked earth show on the Phillips Hill 2018 Boontling Pinot Noir (Ander- nose of this bottling. Blistered cranberry flavors CABERNET SAUVIGNON 89 son Valley). This earthy and inviting wine meet with slightly bitter earth tones on the palate. is named for the quirky dialect of early ranchers —M.K. Lail 2018 Blueprint Cabernet Sauvignon in Anderson Valley. It offers rather rich red- and abv: 13.5% Price: $19 96 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 3. black-cherry flavors laced with hints of licorice and Cellar Selection. leather on a well-balanced structure of light tannins Hamdog 2018 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz abv: 14.9% Price: $80 and good acidity. —J.G. 87 Mountains). Rosewater-extract, balsamic-­ abv: 13.5% Price: $30 cranberry-sauce and potpourri aromas show on the Penfolds 2018 Bin 704 Cabernet Sauvignon tangy, slightly funky nose of this bottling. There’s a 96 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 3. Summerland 2018 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). strongly tart tang on the palate of red-plum skins and Cellar Selection. 89 Lightly colored in the glass, this bottling pickled herbs. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 ­begins with clean lines of black raspberry and boy- abv: 13.5% Price: $26 senberry, with hints of tarragon and nutmeg. The Spottswoode 2017 Estate Grown Cabernet palate is broad with flavors of baked red berry, KIng Chancho 2018 Pinot Noir (Central 96 Sauvignon (St. Helena). This is from the ­juniper and tarragon, wrapped in resinous tannins. 87 Coast). Dried strawberries, leather and producer’s organically farmed estate and blended —M.K. hibiscus aromas show on the nose of this bottling. with 7% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. A abv: 13.8% Price: $17 There’s a slightly sweet ripe quality to the red fruit beautiful, elegant and youthful wine, it offers seam- of the sip, yet the smoke and dried herb elements less texture and integration, quiet hints of blue- Theopolis 2019 Pinot Noir (Yorkville High- keep it serious. —M.K. berry and black currant and a hint of cocoa powder. 89 lands). Meaty and savory flavors are well abv: 14.1% Price: $17 Gentle in nature and approach, it has a complex matched with a firm texture and backed by good depth and more to say. Enjoy best from 2027–2037. under­lying cherry notes in this full-bodied and Mon Frere 2019 Vintner’s Selection Pinot Noir Cellar Selection. —V.B. moderately tannic wine. Best from 2023. —J.G. 87 (California). Bold and fruity, this medium- abv: 13.7% Price: $225 abv: 13.8% Price: $45 bodied wine adds buttery overtones to almost jammy black-cherry and strawberry flavors. It feels soft and Chappellet 2017 Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sau- Fathers Daughters 2017 Ellas’s Reserve broad on the palate. —J.G. 95 vignon (Napa Valley). For full review see 88 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson abv: 13.9% Price: $17 page 4. Cellar Selection. Valley).­ This smooth, almost sweet-tasting and abv: 14.5% Price: $250 medium-bodied wine from the owners of Ferrington Montemar 2016 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Vineyard offers mild cherry and raspberry flavors 87 Rather extracted aromas of black plum Janzen 2018 Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper accented by ample vanilla and cinnamon touches on paste, clove and mace show on the nose of this bot- 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Earthy a polished texture. —J.G. tling. The palate is very ripe with black-plum-pud- in compost, iron and graphite, this is a full-bodied abv: 13.8% Price: $52 ding, nutmeg and dominant clove flavors. —M.K. and fully integrated wine with a remarkably elegant abv: 13.8% Price: $44 structure. Black-currant and blackberry-fruit com- Kokomo 2018 Winemaker’s Reserve Peters ponents are richly layered throughout a core of sup- 88 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This Porter & Plot 2018 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara ple tannin and lasting oak. —V.B. is a robust, hearty and meaty red wine, brimming 87 County). Scorched beef, singed sage, iron abv: 15.2% Price: $165 in tangy red fruit. Elements of baking spice, vanilla shavings and cranberry aromas make for a unique and earth accent a foundation of toasty oak. —V.B. nose on this bottling. There’s a rugged quality to the Janzen 2018 Beckstoffer To Kalon Cabernet abv: 14.2% Price: $56 sip, where sun-dried earth and charred meat flavors 95 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Entirely varietal sit atop the light strawberry and cranberry fruit. and given 22 months in 100% new French oak, this Longhouse 2018 Pinot Noir (Monterey —M.K. wine exudes dark-mocha, black-currant and cas- 88 County).­ Dried red-plum and juicy berry abv: 13.7% Price: $20 sis flavors, coming together in a seamless, opulent aromas meet with a touch of oak on the nose of style. Sweet oak and notes of clove, cinnamon and this bottling. On the palate, charred strawberry Cherry Pie 2016 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir black pepper dot a structured, complex and full- and vanilla-bean­ flavors met with a hint of oak, all 86 (Carneros). This is a simple, hearty and bodied wine of considerable length. —V.B. wrapped in grippy, long-lingering tannins. —M.K. robustly ripe wine from the famous site that traffics abv: 15.1% Price: $225 abv: 13.8% Price: $15 in jammy black cherry and strawberry. Herbal com- ponents and clove notes give it an earthiness. —V.B. Janzen 2018 Cloudy’s Vineyard Cabernet Montemar 2016 Barrel Select Pinot Noir abv: 14.9% Price: $50 95 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). From the pro- 88 (Sta. Rita Hills). Ripe aromas of blackberry ducer’s estate vineyard on the north-eastern side of syrup, black cherry, clove and cola are quite rich on the valley, this is an earthy, elegant and classically

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BUYINGGUIDE structured wine, 100% varietal and aged 22 months lush and rounded with a length of baking spice. leathery tannins wrap up savory herb and sandal- in entirely new French oak. Cedar, pencil shavings —V.B. wood flavors. —M.K. and cassis combine around a core of structured tan- abv: 15% Price: $70 abv: 13.8% Price: $60 nin and powerful length. —V.B. abv: 15.1% Price: $165 J. Lohr 2018 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Bridge 2017 Collinwood Cabernet­ 93 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 8. 92 Sauvignon (Knights Valley). A woody, savory­ Waypoint 2018 Oakville Ranch Vineyard Cab- Editors’ Choice. small-production wine, with notes of graphite 95 ernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Made from an abv: 15.1% Price: $35 around dense black fruit, this red offers substantial outstanding site in the eastern hills of the appel- oak and tannin. It is also full bodied and structured lation, this wine is thick and concentrated in Knights Bridge 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon within a complex context. Made entirely from one blackberry and mocha. Sage, dried herb and cedar 93 (Knights Valley). For full review see page 8. variety, it was aged 20 months in all new oak. It contribute earthiness and complex varietal charac- abv: 14.5% Price: $115 will do well with further cellaring; enjoy best from ter—the tannins sturdy and strongly represented 2027–2032. Cellar Selection. —V.B. within the grippy intensity of the wine. Consider Neyers 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 14.5% Price: $150 cellaring and enjoy best from 2028–2035. Cellar 93 Valley).­ For full review see page 9. Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $60 Merryvale 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 15.9% Price: $149 92 Valley). Thick, woody and savory in cedar, Poetic Justice 2018 Lowrey Vineyard South pencil shaving and sage, this wine is substantial in Bacio Divino 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon 93 View Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Soft style and weight, with firm tannin and toasty oak. 94 (Napa Valley). This is a big red wine, and supple in dark chocolate, tree bark and rich lay- Rich layers of black fruit, tobacco and dark chocolate ­blended with 3% Sangiovese and aged 22 months ers of blue fruit, this powerfully built red is ­grippy complement the earthy opening. This will do well in all new French oak, sourced from Beckstoffer and textured, with enviable length. Cedar, dried with further aging; enjoy best from 2025–2030. Heritage Vineyards. A sweetness of berry compote herb and sage make appearances along the way, add- Cellar Selection. —V.B. and cassis rises on the nose and entry on the pal- ing to the complex sophistication of the palate. This abv: 14.7% Price: $70 ate, lifted by underlying acidity and earthy notes of big-boned wine could do with more aging; enjoy cedar and pencil. It will do well in the cellar; enjoy best 2028–2035. Cellar Selection. —V.B. Neyers 2017 AME Neyers Ranch Estate Grown best from 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 15.9% Price: $225 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full abv: 14.9% Price: $110 review see page 11. Cellar Selection. Robert Young 2016 Scion Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.6% Price: $110 Janzen 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- 93 gnon (Alexander Valley). This impressive red 94 ley). This 100% varietal wine is made from combines 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Ver- Neyers 2017 Neyers Ranch Estate Grown Beckstoffer Heritage vineyards’ fruit as well as the dot, 8% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, nearly all 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full producer’s own Cloudy’s Vineyard. Juicy in black hillside fruit. Together they offer a spicy, lively palate review see page 11. cherry and berry, with a hint of vanilla, it is power- of brown spice, toasted oak and dark, brooding black abv: 14.6% Price: $75 fully built with underlying elegance and impressive fruit, integrated and structured to a complete finish. integration. —V.B. —V.B. Raymond 2018 District Collection Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $70 92 Sauvignon (Calistoga). Sweet and tangy in cassis and dark cherry, this well-integrated wine Jax 2018 Block 3 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calis- Sunstone 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa is lengthy and relatively subdued, with an elegant 94 toga). For full review see page 7. 93 Ynez Valley). From the estate’s original structure. Dried herb, cedar and a note of tobacco abv: 14.9% Price: $125 planting of about one acre, this bottling begins with round out the yin and yang of the wine. —V.B. aromas of crushed rocks, dark boysenberry and abv: 14.5% Price: $95 Rangeland 2016 Limestone Reserve Caber- light fennel on the nose. Firm and dry tannins frame 94 net Sauvignon (Adelaida District). For full the sip, where ripe berry-paste flavors are cut by Raymond 2018 Generations Cabernet Sauvi- review see page 7. pencil shavings, turned earth, dried herb and more 92 gnon (Napa Valley). Brawny, fleshy and full abv: 15.3% Price: $50 crushed rock. —M.K. bodied, as well as blended with 3% Petit Verdot, this abv: 14% Price: $65 red sizzles in black cherry, cassis and brown sugar. Stone Edge Farm 2015 Estate Bottled Cab- Integrated tannins contribute support and additional 94 ernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). For full Waypoint 2018 Lowrey Vineyard Basalt power, as a length of toasted oak weighs in. —V.B. review see page 7. Cellar Selection. 93 Ledge Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). abv: 15% Price: $145 abv: 14.6% Price: $130 For full review see page 10. Cellar Selection. abv: 15.6% Price: $149 Ruby Hill Winery 2017 Jewel Collection Series Benom 2018 Origin Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Liver- 93 (Paso Robles). Still a bit young, this wine Etude 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa more Valley). This big, complex and lavishly oaked takes a long time to open, but is wondrous once it 92 Valley).­ Thick, leathery tannins support a wine offers abundant aromas of wood smoke, salt hits that mark. Aromas of black cherry, blackberry, core of full-bodied, opulent blue fruit in this grippy, and pepper that expand to rich blackberry and black wet soil, crushed lava rocks and mushroom lead robustly styled red. Baking spice, mocha, sage and cherry on the palate accented by cedar and tobacco. into a palate loaded with dark-plum, elderberry and oak support the varietal fruitiness and exuberant Well integrated tannins and full body give the wine ­eucalyptus-leaf flavors. With patience, the fruit, length. —V.B. plenty of structure. Best through 2028. —J.G. herb and earth elements converge in compelling abv: 14.5% Price: $90 abv: 15.3% Price: $55 ways. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $68 Joyce 2018 Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon Cakebread 2017 Benchland Select Cabernet 92 (Carmel Valley). Deep and dark black-cherry­ 91 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A 100% varietal Beringer 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon aromas meet with woody caramel, light leather wine made in a full-bodied, robustly thick and 93 (Knights Valley). Creamy in texture and dec- and dusty oregano on the nose of this bottling. The substantial style, this red offers firm, ample tan- adent in style, this reserve-worthy, 100% ­varietal palate pops with fresher fruit and dark flowers, as nin and oak. Mocha, black currant and black cherry red is a mix of cherry cola and vanilla cream, that’s are hugely impactful in flavor (within the context of

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 the body weight) and buzzy in acidity on the finish. cedar and crushed rock. The oak and tannins are There’s a strong impact of herbs on the nose of this —V.B. well integrated amid a full-bodied expression of mountain bottling, along with iron shavings, dried abv: 14.9% Price: $129 concentrated length. —V.B. shiitake, baked earth and an underlying sense of abv: 14.5% Price: $60 dried red fruit. Redwood spice shows on the palate, Cultivar 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa where dried cherry, leather and dusty herbs battle 91 Valley).­ Thick and juicy in dense black fruit, Robert Young 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon for attention. —M.K. the tannins of this wine are supple and well inte- 91 (Alexander­ Valley). Thick in earthy sage and abv: 13.5% Price: $43 grated, with a broad undercurrent of tingly acidity. oak, this wine includes 12% Merlot, 6% Malbec, Tree bark, tobacco and black olives dot the medium- 5% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. It was J. Wilkes 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso bodied palate of firm, impressive structure. —V.B. aged in French oak, 40% of it new. Full bodied 90 Robles Highlands District). For full review abv: 14.3% Price: $50 and well integrated, it delivers bold flavors of waxy see page 17. Editors’ Choice. plum, baking spice and coffee bean. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $30 Écluse 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso abv: 14.7% Price: $56 91 Robles).­ Intensely woody aromas of dark Knights Bridge 2017 Haggerty Cabernet Sau- cedar and mahogany morph into creamier baked Ruby Hill Winery 2017 Reserve Collection 90 vignon (Knights Valley). A spiciness of cin- fruit aromas on the nose of this bottling. The pal- 91 C­abernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). namon Red Hots heats up a core of soft red fruit in ate is cohesive in flavors, with red cherry and brown Packed with tasty chocolate, tobacco and baked this full-bodied, small-production, 100% varietal spice all wrapped in firm tannins. —M.K. plum flavors, this concentrated and full-bodied wine. Pillowy tannins surround an earthy comple- abv: 14.1% Price: $49 wine balances generous fruit flavors with supple, ment of graphite, iron and rock. —V.B. moderate tannins and attractive oak spices of abv: 14.5% Price: $150 Écluse 2017 Lock Vineyard Reserve Cabernet ­vanilla and cedar. —J.G. 91 Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Dark-berry aromas abv: 14.6% Price: $29 Lucas & Lewellen 2016 Clone 6 Cabernet meet with wet rocks and turned soil on the nose of 90 Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Toasty, this bottling. There is a strong sense of minerality to Akrasia 2015 Line of Fire Vineyard Cabernet caramelized oak is prominent on the nose of this the palate as well, with crushed rock and earthy clay 90 Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full review see bottling, which also shows smoked cherry-compote flavors as well as baked blackberry and light fennel page 16. and seasoning-salt scents. The oak drives the pal- spice. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $80 ate as well, where mesquite wraps up the baked red abv: 14.9% Price: $74 fruit, with lingering mocha and vanilla on the finish. Ancient Peaks 2017 Pearl Collection Cab- —M.K. Hearst Ranch 2018 Bunkhouse Cabernet Sau- 90 ernet Sauvignon (Santa Margarita Ranch). abv: 14.5% Price: $64 91 vignon (Paso Robles). Very fresh in its lively Black cherry, cola nut, iron shavings and clove show color and lively aromas, this bottling offers black on the nose of this bottling, which is a new upper Raymond 2018 District Collection Cabernet raspberry, cocoa and mint on the juicy, accessible tier release for this brand. There’s a strong cedar 90 Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). Reductive nose. It hits the palate very dry, with blackberry and and sandalwood kick to the sip, where dark-plum, and waxy on the palate, this wine has powerful boysenberry flavors as well as mint, vanilla and cola dried beef and soy flavors arise. —M.K. concentration and tannin weight—substantial ele- spice. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $70 ments that make it robust and lengthy. Soft, lush abv: 14.1% Price: $35 and approachable, it has a wide appeal and round- Beringer 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights ness. —V.B. Oakville Winery 2017 Estate Grown Cabernet 90 Valley). Toasted oak and swirls of vanilla abv: 15% Price: $108 91 Sauvignon (Oakville). Waxy plum, bark and make for a jammy rich and softly likable wine, value- sage ride along a throughput of thick tannin and minded in price and blended with small amounts of Raymond 2018 District Collection Cabernet integrated oak in this well-made, full-bodied wine. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Blueberry 90 Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). Perfumed Varietally earthy and herbal, it offers good value for a and blackberry flavors are supple and fleshy on the in red fruit, crushed rock and a note of sage, this big high-quality experience of length and breadth. —V.B. palate. —V.B. red is oak-driven and firm in lengthy, substantial abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: 14.3% Price: $36 tannin. Powerfully ripe and lush, it delivers velvety richness for days. —V.B. Raymond 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calis- Byron Blatty 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Los abv: 15% Price: $108 91 toga). Earthy compost and dried herb notes 90 Angeles County). Dark-cherry aromas meet complement a full-bodied exploration of oak and with crumpled flowers and minty cocoa tones on Raymond 2018 District Collection Cabernet tannin that finds integration and elegance within the nose of this bottling, which includes 7% Syrah. 90 Sauvignon (St. Helena). Thick, concen- the powerful framework of intensity. Dark cherry, Toast and red cherry are expected flavors on the trated waves of dark brooding fruit rise from this red currant and a freshening note of orange peel palate, where there are also intriguing hints of red warm-climate wine, the tannins sweet and lengthy. combine well to offer refined flavor. —V.B. plum, tar, asphalt and charred meats. Vanilla hangs Toasted oak adds additional texture and a lasting abv: 15% Price: $95 onto the finish. —M.K. note of vanilla. —V.B. abv: 15.2% Price: $45 abv: 15% Price: $95 Raymond 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell 91 Mountain). Thick, concentrated layers of Calla Lily 2015 Audax Cabernet Sauvignon Raymond 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. dark-red fruit are cradled in well-integrated oak 90 (Napa Valley). From the producer’s Howell 90 Helena). Opening in a sweetness of oak and tannin in this mountain wine. Powerfully built, Mountain estate, this wine bursts in juicy red fruit and tannin, this highly ripe, robust wine bursts in it offers opulent weight and lasting lushness, find- and baking spice. It is a lengthy and full-bodied juicy waves of cassis and dark cherry, lengthy and ing its groove on the long, clove-laden finish. —V.B. expression of the grape blended with small amounts rounded in undeniable richness. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $108 of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Supple tan- abv: 15.5% Price: $95 nins show a lasting intensity. —V.B. Reynoso 2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.6% Price: $120 Raymond 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yount- 91 (Alexander Valley). Bursting in classic ele- 90 ville). Rich and juicy with a lingering sweet- ments of red currant and cassis, this reserve-wor- Cooper-Garrod 2015 Two Vineyards Cab- ness of cherry, vanilla and cassis, this wine is soft thy wine is fresh in acidity and savory in dried herb, 90 ernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains). and smooth, with full-bodied intensity. It delivers

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BUYINGGUIDE plenty of flavor and rounded approachability that lot, this is a delightfully balanced and elegant red Sean Minor 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso will appeal across palates. —V.B. wine, supple in red fruit and muted tannin. The 89 Robles). Pleasant aromas of black cherry abv: 15.5% Price: $125 structure offers integration and lifted acidity, the and blackberry meet with hints of wood, dried wine light in savory tones of earth and cedar. —V.B. herbs, asphalt and black olive on the nose of this Raymond 2017 District Collection Cabernet abv: 14.4% Price: $83 bottling. Dark leather and roasted berry flavors 90 Sauvignon (Coombsville). Tangy currant show on the palate, where firm tannins lead into a and cranberry is complemented by earthy compost, AJA Vineyards 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon tea-leaf and chocolate-brushed finish. —M.K. cedar and crushed rock elements: a nice showcase 89 (Malibu Coast). Jammy fruit aromas of abv: 13.5% Price: $16 for the appellation. Made in a thick, substantive strawberry and plum are cut by toasted wood aro- style, it offers robust ripeness and hearty oak. —V.B. mas on the nose of this bottling. The palate offers Broadside 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso abv: 15.5% Price: $88 purple-flower flavors and hints of mint and pine, 88 Robles). Blackberry, loamy soil, incense with red and black plums providing the slight tart and roasted meat aromas show on the nose of this Raymond 2017 Generations Cabernet Sau- core. —M.K. bottling. It lands on the palate with clean red fruit 90 vignon (Napa Valley). Emphasizing a sub- abv: 14.1% Price: $50 and sharp acidity, as waves of pine and smoke ride stantial body weight of red fruit, cedar and graphite, slightly chunky tannins into the finish. —M.K. this is a hearty and considerably ripe wine, rich and Hungry Hawk 2018 Elliot Ranch Cabernet abv: 13.5% Price: $18 deeply layered. Lingering oak adds a touch of vanilla 89 Sauvignon (San Diego County). Polished and baking spice. —V.B. aromas of smoked cherry, cocoa and dried mint Calla Lily 2016 Ultimate Red Cabernet Sau- abv: 15.5% Price: $135 show on the nose of this bottling. It’s lightly bod- 88 vignon (Napa Valley). From a vineyard high ied on the palate, where strawberry-juice, purple-­ atop Howell Mountain, with small amounts of Cab- Raymond 2016 District Collection Cabernet flower and dried herb flavors arise. —M.K. ernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, this red is 90 Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). Herbal in style, abv: 13.7% Price: $48 thick and densely built in mocha, sage and cedar. this aged red is leathery and powerful in oak and Rich layers of vanilla and milk chocolate give it a tannin. Black olive, nutmeg and blackberry combine Knights Bridge 2017 Estate Cabernet Sau- roundedness and soft, supple structure. —V.B. around a hearty ripeness and lasting grip. —V.B. 89 vignon (Knights Valley). A 100% varietal abv: 14.8% Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $95 wine that spent 18 months in barrel, this shows a thickness of iron and tar and quite a bit of reduc- Curious Beasts 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Reynoso 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alex- tion, while still youthfully unwinding in the bottle. 88 (California). This well-balanced wine is 90 ander Valley). Thick, dusty tannin and oak An intensity of mineral-like rock and tannin give it true to the grape variety and not nearly as out-there give way to a powerful layering of rich red fruit in a powerful imprint. —V.B. as its label. Good black-cherry and black-olive fla- this full-bodied mountain-grown wine. Dark cur- abv: 14.5% Price: $60 vors and light tannins give this traditionally styled rant, cherry and cassis mingle around crushed rock, full-bodied wine a nicely filled out frame. —J.G. iron and enduring earthiness. —V.B. One Stone 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso abv: 13.9% Price: $14 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 89 Robles). For full review see page 19. abv: 14.1% Price: $20 Josh Cellars 2018 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- Sei Querce 2016 Six Oaks Cabernet Sauvi- 88 gnon (Paso Robles). Dark aromas of Morello 90 gnon (Alexander Valley). This wine is sup- Raymond 2018 District Collection C­abernet cherry, seared cedar and sarsaparilla show on the ple and richly layered, with a viscous, roundedness 89 Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). Reduced and unde- nose of this bottling. The palate is framed by clean, that emphasizes its plush, full-bodied style. Cedar, niably earthy, this appellation wine tastes of cedar, slightly tense lines of roasted black cherry and pur- blackberry and sweet oak make it a likable expres- pencil shaving and coffee. It is savory and tannic up ple flower, leaning a tad sweet but dried out by the sion of the grape that doesn’t overthink things, front. Powerfully built, it ends in a strong jolt of oak. tannins. —M.K. delivering lasting notes of vanilla and chocolate. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $95 abv: 15.1% Price: $79 KIng Chancho 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Raymond 2018 District Collection Cabernet 88 (Central Coast). Light red-fruit aromas meet Silver Ghost 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon 89 Sauvignon (Rutherford). Graphite, rock and with darker mint, crumpled carnation and light oak 90 (Napa Valley). Deeply concentrated in iron elements contribute an underlying earthiness on the nose of this bottling. There’s a flash of sweet- tangy black cherry and berry, this wine is perfumed to this intensely concentrated wine—a good repre- ness at the tip of the sip before more complex tones and approachable, ready to enjoy and priced fairly sentation of the appellation’s warmth and richness. of dark cherry and charred fennel arise. —M.K. for its fine quality. Clove, tobacco and vanilla oak —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $17 round out the lengthy finish. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $95 abv: 14.8% Price: $50 Meadowlark 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Raymond 2018 District Collection Cabernet­ 88 (Santa Barbara County). Slightly extracted Sobon Estate 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon 89 Sauvignon (Yountville). This is a tannic, aromas of black plum meet with lavender, sandal- 90 (California). For full review see page 18. thick and deeply concentrated wine, robust in wood, soy and grilled meats on the savory nose of abv: 13.8% Price: $18 dried herb, jammy black cherry and cocoa powder. this bottling. Charred wood, dried fruit and beef- It packs a memorable punch, the savory earthiness jerky flavors meet with a slightly bitter palo santo Stringer 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak providing contrast with subdued complexity. —V.B. kick on the palate. —M.K. 90 Knoll District). Herbal and dusty, this cooler- abv: 15% Price: $88 abv: 15% Price: $35 climate red is 100% varietal and old school in ­nature. Leather, earth and a touch of barnyard give Raymond 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Hills 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso it a rustic edge around mellow layers of blueberry 89 (Oakville). High-pitched in dried herb and 88 Robles). Dried strawberry, light leather, and plum. —V.B. cedar, this wine offers substantial tannin presence sour cranberry, dark hibiscus and a hint of tar show abv: 14.1% Price: $65 and an intensity of oaky spice. The midpalate is a on the nose of this bottling. Plenty of plum and rich layering of cassis and black cherry with second- strawberry flavors show on the sip, where a dried Textbook 2017 Mise En Place Cabernet Sau- ary components of coconut and vanilla. —V.B. mint balances the fresh fruits. —M.K. 90 vignon (Oakville). Blended with 10% Mer- abv: 15% Price: $108 abv: 13.9% Price: $18

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Porter & Plot 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon wine offers plenty of cinnamon, nut and vanilla aro- Bottle Jack 2016 Zayante Vineyard Cabernet 88 (Paso Robles). Tight and brisk aromas of mas, followed by blackberry and blueberry flavors 86 Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains). Black- black raspberry meet with strong cedar and a touch and a softly tannic texture. —J.G. berry, black-cherry, oregano and oak aromas show of mint on the nose of this bottling. There’s an abv: 14% Price: $25 on the slightly tangy nose of this bottling. It’s very herbal streak of oregano to the palate, where ripe grippy on the palate, where tangy, acid-drive black- berries, mushroom and tobacco flavors arise. —M.K. Estancia 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso plum-juice flavors meet with lots of herbal influence. abv: 14.1% Price: $20 87 Robles).­ Dried leather, black-plum and —M.K. ­purple-flower aromas show on the nose of this bot- abv: 14.2% Price: $40 Pure Ugly 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa tling. There’s a large helping of dried oregano and 88 Valley). This Napa Valley can is simple and bay leaf on the palate, which also shows black-plum CK Mondavi and Family 2018 Cabernet Sau- approachable in blackberry and black cherry, with a and incense flavors. —M.K. 86 vignon (California). For full review see page mocha backdrop. Hearty and rich in style, it delivers abv: 13.5% Price: $14 22. Best Buy. smooth, velvety texture and likable hints of baking abv: 13.6% Price: $7 spice that overdelivers on its price. —V.B. McClain Cellars 2018 Sacred Love Reserve abv: 15.3% Price: $15/375 ml 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Kenwood 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendo­ Fairly extracted aromas of black plum meet with 86 cino County-Sonoma County). This is a good, Raymond 2018 District Collection Cabernet­ mahogany, incense and dark soil on the nose of this well-made, straightforward and rather full-bodied 88 Sauvignon (Spring Mountain District). bottling. The blackberry-jam and licorice flavors of wine that brings black olives to the aromas and Earthy elements of dried herb, sage and cedar give the palate are a bit rich. —M.K. black cherries to the palate. —J.G. this wine a green, herbal quality that outweighs the abv: 14.8% Price: $69 abv: 14.8% Price: $15 tangy fruit notes of currant and cranberry. The tan- nins are lengthy and help to emphasize the overall Raymond 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Raymond 2015 District Collection Cabernet grip. —V.B. 87 Mountain District). This wine is waxy and 86 Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). Smooth and dusty, abv: 15% Price: $95 tannic on the palate, offering a sturdy, full-bodied this wine is on the downside of its peak, is thick in and richly ripe expression of mountain sage, dusty tannin and elusive in black fruit and toasted oak. Raymond 2018 District Collection Cabernet rock and black cherry. —V.B. —V.B. 88 Sauvignon (Oakville). Iron, sage and cedar abv: 15% Price: $95 abv: 15% Price: $95 lead the way to a midpalate of soft, supple richness and substantial ripeness in this appellation wine. Three Finger Jack 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Summerland 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Thick tannins wrap around the layered fruit, under- 87 (Lodi). This ripe, flavorful and almost thick- 86 (Central Coast). Wild herb and baked red- lining the fistfuls of power. —V.B. textured wine is very deep in color, packed with fruit aromas meet with black pepper on the nose of abv: 15% Price: $108 jammy blackberry flavors and supported by moder- this bottling. Flavors of pencil shavings, dried herb ate tannins. It’s bold and full bodied. —J.G. and sour red fruits are almost bitter on the palate. Raymond 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 15% Price: $20 —M.K. 88 (Rutherford).­ Softly structured, this wine abv: 13.8% Price: $17 appeals in richly concentrated black cherry and Trentadue La Storia 2017 Estate Cabernet plum. Supple and integrated, it has wide appeal in 87 Sauvignon (Sonoma County). Thick and 689 Cellars 2018 Submission Cabernet Sau- its approachability and lasting vanilla oak. —V.B. herbal, this wine is leathery thick and brimming 85 vignon (California). An aroma of f­reshly abv: 15.5% Price: $95 in black cherry and graham cracker. The oak is well sawn wood leads to very oaky, vanilla and cedar ­integrated and adds to the weight and richness. flavors in this heavily spiced, medium-bodied wine. Rubino Estates Winery 2017 Riserva —V.B. —J.G. 88 ­Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Valley). Abundant black-cherry and blackberry fla- vors fill out this full-bodied and somewhat tannic W. Paso 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Hobo 2018 The Way Back Cabernet Sauvi- wine. Its powerful structure supports dark-chocolate 87 Robles). Slightly minty aromas meet with 85 gnon (California). This sturdy, firm-tex- accents and a good sense of ripeness and roundness. strawberries, lilac, herbs and mushroom on the nose tured, moderately tannic wine offers low-key fruit —J.G. of this bottling. Black-plum-extract flavors meet flavors dominated by slightly earthy, iron and black abv: 15.5% Price: $29 with oregano and more mushroom on the palate. olive notes. —J.G. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $18 Stephen Vincent 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 13.3% Price: $10 88 (Napa Valley). Blended with 14% Mer- lot and 7% Petit Verdot, this red is soft, supple 689 Cellars 2018 Lucky Draw Cabernet CABERNET FRANC and approachable—a force of tar, leather and juicy 86 Sauvignon (California). This smooth and red and black cherry. The oak imparts elements of straightforward wine offers mild blueberry and Justice 2018 Frontier Justice Beckstoffer Dr. tobacco, cinnamon and coconut. —V.B. baking-spice flavors, light tannins and medium body. 95 Crane Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Napa Val- abv: 14.5% Price: $24 —J.G. ley). For full review see page 4. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 15.9% Price: $225 1924 2019 Double Black Limited Edition 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Packed with 7 Deadly 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Lieu Dit 2019 Cabernet Franc (Santa Ynez blackberry-jam and milk-chocolate flavors, this 86 This hyper-spicy wine is practically drip- 95 Valley). It would be easy to mistake this full-bodied wine is broad, rich and almost sweet on ping with clove, cedar, vanilla and heavily toasted herbally complex, texturally taut and tantalizingly the palate. Full body and nicely integrated tannins bread aromas, which are followed by almost-sweet fresh Cabernet Franc for a bottling, make it mouthfilling. —J.G. milk-chocolate and cherry flavors. It is full bodied, which is the inspiration. Aromas of just-ripe boy- abv: 14.5% Price: $13 firmly tannic and overtly oaky. —J.G. senberry, green tobacco and wet rocks lead into abv: 14% Price: $15 a tightly woven palate full of crunchy cranberry, Appellations Cellars 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 (California). This mature and spicy scented

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BUYINGGUIDE chaparral shrubs and lingering carnation. Beware: gushing black-fruit flavors give a lot of charm to this French and American oak, this approachable red is bottle empties easily. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. full-bodied but fresh-feeling wine. It tastes pure earthy and herbal, with full-bodied fruit concentra- abv: 13% Price: $30 and uncomplicated, simply full of enjoyment. —J.G. tion. The flavors range from black currant to plum abv: 14.9% Price: $34 and nutmeg, finishing robustly in oak. —V.B. Jax 2018 4 Barrels Cabernet Franc (Calis- abv: 14.5% Price: $24 94 toga). For full review see page 6. Fasi Estate 2019 Cabernet Franc (Madera abv: 14.9% Price: $60 87 County). This smooth and easygoing wine Appellations Cellars 2016 Cellar Reserve offers dried cranberry aromas, red-currant flavors 84 Merlot (Lodi). This mature, mellow and full- Sol Rouge 2016 Cabernet Franc (Red Hills). and moderate tannins that beef up the texture bodied wine is tasty and smooth, but teetering on 94 Great complexity, luscious fruit flavors and slightly. Light butter and vanilla notes add an oaky the edge of oxidation. Best to enjoy its cedar, cinna- a firm but polished texture give this full-bodied flair. —J.G. mon, baked earth and nut flavors ASAP. —J.G. wine everything it needs for enjoyment now and for abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 15% Price: $25 several years to come. Black cherries, black olives, tobacco and clove mingle on a fabric of fine-grained Oakville East 2017 Franc ’N Stern Cabernet Pacific Redwood 2019 Merlot (North Coast). tannins for a luxurious and savory palate. Best 87 Franc (Oakville). Sage, dried herb and pencil 83 Bold, tobacco aromas and veggie flavors give through 2026. Cellar Selection. —J.G. shavings accent a tannic and substantial palate of this rustic wine something to savor before a some- abv: 14.3% Price: $45 ripeness and power in this earthy, full-bodied wine. what bitter, drying finish. —J.G. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $15 Lang & Reed 2010 Franc de Pied Cabernet abv: 14.8% Price: $100 93 Franc (Lake County). This tightly woven wine is on the way to maturity but still holding its Park Avenue 2017 Cabernet Franc (Napa MALBEC abundant black-cherry, black-pepper­ and olive fla- 85 Valley). This wine is somewhat dull on the vors firmly in masses of fine-grained tannins. Light palate, showing ripe, simple layers of red fruit and Opaque 2018 Malbec (Paso Robles). For full toasted oak and mint aromas segue into the savory, dried herb. The tannins are pushy. —V.B. 92 review see page 11. deep fruit flavors and linger on the finish. It’s a abv: 14.3% Price: $24 abv: 14.9% Price: $30 ­library release made from ungrafted, high-elevation vines. Best from 2024. Cellar Selection. —J.G. Saracina 2018 Skid Row Malbec (Mendocino abv: 14.5% Price: $125 MERLOT 91 County). For full review see page 15. abv: 14.2% Price: $30 Cooper-Garrod 2017 Francville Vineyard Paradise Springs 2018 F’ing Merlot (Happy 92 ­Cabernet Franc (Santa Cruz Mountains). The 93 Canyon of Santa Barbara). This antidote to Hungry Hawk 2017 Estate Reserve Malbec nose on this bottling smells of cherry-soaked pork the Sideways treatment of Merlot makes a strong 90 (San Diego County). Dark plum, heavy chai roasted with mushrooms over a smoldering oak fire. defense for the grape. Dark-cherry and dark-choc- spice and also crisper red fruits pop on the nose of The palate aligns with that, offering shiitake, dried olate aromas are lifted by hints of oak on the nose. this agile bottling. The palate is crisp and refresh- cherry and beefy charcuterie flavors—an altogether Grippy tannins frame the sip, where cedar, dark ing, offering candied cherry and red currant as well savory and well-integrated expression. —M.K. berry and cherry and lingering spice notes make for as baking spice and a searing acidity. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $45 a very serious expression. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $54 abv: 14.7% Price: $45 Crystal Basin Cellars 2017 Reserve Cabernet McClain Cellars 2018 Covent Garden Reserve 92 Franc (El Dorado). This deep and robust Silenus 2017 Merlot (Oak Knoll District). For 90 Malbec (Santa Ynez Valley). Cocoa and car- wine combines power with complexity, offering fra- 93 full review see page 9. amel scents meet with baked black cherry, licorice, grant black-currant and tobacco aromas, and rich abv: 14.5% Price: $45 oak and cola ice cream floats on the nose of this bot- blackberry flavors with a hint of dark chocolate. tling. It’s thick and hearty on the palate, where bold Firm, fine-grained tannins give it a lip-smacking Four Lanterns 2017 Reserva Merlot (Temple- smoke, baking-spice and rich red-fruit flavors align. texture that bodes well for aging. Best from 2024. 92 ton Gap District). This is a very lively and —M.K. Cellar Selection. —J.G. juicy take on Merlot, starting with fruity straw- abv: 15.1% Price: $69 abv: 13.8% Price: $32 berry aromas that are lifted by hints of gingerbread and star anise spices. It’s soft and suave on the Wood Family Vineyards 2018 Malbec (Liver- Brick Barn 2017 Reserve Cabernet Franc sip, where baked and fresh strawberry flavors pop 90 more Valley). This is a well-balanced, mod- 91 (­Santa Ynez Valley). This is a slightly ­denser out above the light yet lingering vanilla elements. erately tannic wine with plenty of juicy cherry and take on the grape, beginning with smoke, baked —M.K. raspberry flavors under a light coating of cinnamon cherry, sarsaparilla and vanilla cream on the nose, abv: 15.5% Price: $92 and nutmeg aromas. It’s medium to full bodied and with a crushed graphite minerality lingering in has a touch of red pepper to add extra spice. —J.G. the backdrop. Fairly tight tannins wrap up the sip, CK Mondavi and Family 2017 Merlot (Califor- abv: 14.5% Price: $32 where smoked cherry, red plum, marjoram and bay 87 nia). For full review see page 22. Best Buy. leaf make for a complex expression. —M.K. abv: 13.6% Price: $7 Byron Blatty 2018 Pragmatic Malbec (Los abv: 14.5% Price: $85 89 Angeles County). Ripe blackberry-jam aro- Sunstone 2018 Reserve Merlot (Santa Ynez mas meet with wild herbs of fennel and tarragon Darioush 2018 Cabernet Franc (Mount 87 Valley). There’s a strong degree of extraction, on the nose of this bottling, which includes 5% 90 Veeder).­ This is juicy and substantial red ripeness and wood throughout this bottling. The nose Petite Sirah. There is a wild-chaparral kick to the wine, the tannins thick and foundational. Oak, dried begins with mashed berry, caramel and a Scotch-like sip, which is thick with lush blackberry and black- herb and richly layered jolts of dark cherry and cas- wood spice, while the palate recalls Bourbon, with its cherry flavors. —M.K. sis dominate on a long, concentrated palate. —V.B. caramel and baked fruitcake flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $50 abv: 14.8% Price: $80 abv: 14.4% Price: $65

Wood Family Vineyards 2018 Cabernet Franc Kendall-Jackson 2017 Vintner’s Reserve 90 (Livermore Valley). Rose-petal aromas and 86 ­Merlot (Sonoma County). Aged in both

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 with lavender and crumpled dahlia on the nose of It’s full flavored on the palate, where espresso- SYRAH this bottling. The white-pepper, wild-thyme and bean, grilled berry and charred plum elements are bay leaf flavors are focused and pure on the palate, wrapped in heavy woodsmoke. —M.K. Clos Solène 2018 Cuvée Jean Syrah (Santa where black-plum and more lavender tones make for abv: 14.9% Price: $52 97 Maria Valley). So intensely dark that it’s a fresh, lightly bodied and zesty expression. —M.K. almost opaque in the glass, this bottling from the abv: 13% Price: $50 Montemar 2015 Watch Hill Vineyard Syrah famed Z and X blocks of Bien Nacido Vineyard is 91 (Santa Barbara County). Baked black-cur- extremely polished on the seductive nose, where Écluse 2018 Syrah (Paso Robles). Lavish rant, woodsmoke, raspberry jam and smoked beef black currant, singed violet, charred lamb and subtle 94 aromas of cassis, baked berry, caramel, aromas show on the nose of this bottling. There’s a waves of earth and herb converge. Suave, silky tan- vanilla cream and cracked pepper make for a very tarragon and fennel combination on the palate that nins frame the sip, where the dark-berry and vio- heady, impressive nose on this bottling. Smooth gives depth to the black-plum, dried berry and light let flavors meet with singed game and pepper dust. tannins start the sip before standing up to be more cocoa flavors. —M.K. —M.K. firm, as rich, thick flavors of currant and baking abv: 14.6% Price: $40 abv: 14.7% Price: $98 spice get washed by acid into the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $44 San Simeon 2019 Syrah (Paso Robles). This Clos Solène 2018 Hommage a Nos Pairs 91 very dark bottling begins with powerful aro- 97 ­Reserve Syrah (Paso Robles). This is an epic Montemar 2015 McGinley Vineyard Syrah mas of baked black currant, rich cocoa sauce and Dr bottling, overloaded with lush layers of umami and 94 (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Brooding Pepper-like spices on the nose. The palate is deep expertly captured fruit. Aromas of baked black aromas of dark plum, roasted fig, asphalt and black in purple fruits and flowers, with earthy stone, cap- plum, currant, cappuccino, dark chocolate and black pepper are deep, rich and savory on the nose of this puccino and charred meat flavors also popping up. pepper play on the nose. Framed by firm yet forgiv- bottling. Tightly woven tannins frame the generous —M.K. ing tannins, the palate combines dry elderberry and black-currant, cracked pepper, espresso and violet abv: 14.5% Price: $25 prune flavors with charred lamb and beef, asphalt flavors of the acid-boosted sip. —M.K. and cracked pepper. This is powerfully elegant, with abv: 14.3% Price: $40 One Leaf 2018 Shiraz (California). This 3% Viognier and 2% Grenache. —M.K. 90 ­robust and mouthcoating wine offers gen- abv: 15% Price: $98 Top 2017 Exert Syrah (Paso Robles). erous black fruits, hints of white and black pepper 94 ­Refreshing and lively yet savory in all the and a firm but rich texture. It flirts with a gamy, Epoch 2017 Authenticity Syrah (Paso Robles right ways, this bottling offers black-currant, violet, earthy character for added complexity that’s rare in 96 Willow Creek District). This showcase of the white-pepper and charred lamb aromas on the nose. a wine this affordable.Best Buy. —J.G. historic Paderewski property, which includes 6% Crisp acidity frames the sip, where acai and other abv: 14.5% Price: $10 Mourvèdre and 2% Viognier, begins with expertly purple-fruit flavors mix with lavender, dark pepper captured aromas of black current, dark berry, mocha,­ and star anise spices. —M.K. Cooper-Garrod 2015 Test Pilot F-104 cappuccino cream and hot vanilla cake. Elegant lay- abv: 15.4% Price: $68 89 Starfighter Syrah (Santa Cruz Mountains). ers of violet, lilac and acai mesh into roasted cocoa on Roasted coffee, black-plum-extract and fig aromas the palate, where polished tannins keep the waves of Copia 2018 The Source Syrah (Central Coast). show on the nose of this bottling, which includes flavor and texture coming. —M.K. 93 Cocoa dust, hints of caramel and lush black 9% Viognier. The palate is medium to lighter bod- abv: 15.8% Price: $85 cherry meet with hints of tar and asphalt on the ied, with tangy acidity and taut tannins revealing nose of this bottling, which includes 3% Grenache. wild plum, dried berry and clay flavors. —M.K. Epoch 2017 Block B Syrah (Paso Robles Soft, polished tannins frame the smoky cassis and abv: 13.9% Price: $41 95 Willow Creek District). From the historic black-plum core of the sip, with more savory notes ­Paderewski Vineyard, this complex bottling begins of roasted fig on the fringes. —M.K. Skinner 2018 Syrah (El Dorado). Well with aromas of crumpled lavender, charred lamb, abv: 14.7% Price: $58 89 ­balanced and elegant, this medium-bodied tangy elderberry jam and savory white pepper, sur- wine blends tasty but not showy cherry, black-and rounding a rich black-currant streak at the core. Crystal Basin Cellars 2017 Reserve Syrah (El blackberry flavors on light tannins. It’s easy to sip The charred meat and deep, dark fruit character 93 Dorado). Powerful flavors of charcoal, black and appreciate and will be equally easy to pair with rolls through the palate, where elegant spices are pepper, wood smoke and coffee bean crowd around food. —J.G. sure to grow more intriguing with time. Drink now a core of jazzy, ripe and meaty black-fruit flavors abv: 13.9% Price: $30 through 2032. Cellar Selection. —M.K. for a great display of the complexity that Syrah can abv: 15.3% Price: $95 offer. Full body and moderate tannins are balanced Thacher 2017 Solo Concert Coastview Vine- by fresh acidity, making it a good candidate for mid- 89 yard Syrah (Monterey). Blackberry-jam, Justin 2016 Focus Syrah (Paso Robles). For term aging. Best from 2023. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. muddled prune and fruitcake aromas show on the 95 full review see page 4. abv: 13.2% Price: $30 nose of this bottling from a high-elevation vineyard abv: 16% Price: $110 east of Salinas. Savory and rich flavors of roasted Fasi Estate 2019 Private Reserve Estate fig and plum meet with fudge and nutmeg on the Paradise Springs 2018 Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills). 93 Grown Syrah (Madera). Full bodied and palate. —M.K. 95 A blend of the 470, 174 and Estrella clones, firmly structured with tannins, this wine from an abv: 14.8% Price: $52 this is an excellent show of cool-climate Syrah, under-the-radar producer shows abundant wild, beginning with the tart black-plum, lavender, roasted, gamy and singed-herb flavors. It’s deeply Meadowlark 2016 Syrah (Santa Barbara charred and raw meat and cracked pepper aromas savory, smoky and yet offers a great foundation of 88 County). Cedar and dark-plum aromas meet on the nose. Piquant purple flower and tart plum blueberry and blackberry underneath. Best from with crumpled herbs and a hint of charred game on flavors pop on the palate, where white pepper and 2023. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. the nose of this bottling. There are hints of asphalt game provide the savory touchstones. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $38 and black pepper on the palate, but it’s the woody, abv: 13.7% Price: $45 roasted plum element that is more dominant. —M.K. McClain Cellars 2018 Sofia’s Star Syrah abv: 16% Price: $30 Piedrasassi 2018 Bien Nacido Vineyard ­Syrah 92 (Santa Ynez Valley). Toasty aromas of cara- 95 (Santa Maria Valley). Piquant, tart and melized black plums and blackberry jam meet with Santa Barbara Winery 2017 Syrah (Santa snappy aromas of underripe berries and plums meet a wet soil minerality on the nose of this bottling. 88 Ynez Valley). Fresh black-currant and

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BUYINGGUIDE black-plum-extract aromas show on the nose of this female winemaker in Santa Barbara County history, exudes earthy, leathery, sandalwood aromas, flavors bottling, as do hints of purple flowers. It’s lightly is applying her Pinot Noir acumen to Grenache, of dried fruits and toasted nuts and has a full body bodied on the sip, with light lavender touches, mak- with great results. This bright and fresh bottling, but rather light tannins. It’s easy to love for its mel- ing for an easy quaff. —M.K. from the biodynamic grapes at Martian Ranch, low complexity and soothing mouthfeel. —J.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $22 begins with beautiful aromas of raspberry, hibiscus abv: 14.8% Price: $42 and rose petal on the nose before the tightly woven Vie Winery 2017 Les Amours Syrah (Santa yet generously flavorful palate unleashes waves of Wood Family Vineyards 2018 Grenache 88 Barbara County). Candied yet sour black- plum, berry and peppery herbs. Editors’ Choice. 90 (Livermore Valley). This rich, broad and berry aromas are a bit tangy on the nose of this bot- —M.K. ­relaxed wine floods the taste buds with warm plum, tling, and are also lifted by hints of violet. The palate abv: 14.5% Price: $36 ripe cherry and light spices of cinnamon and orange is slightly sour but smoothed out with boysenberry, peel. It’s full bodied and light in tannins. —J.G. aged meat, white-pepper and licorice flavors. —M.K. Buttonwood 2016 Grenache (Santa Ynez abv: 14.9% Price: $32 abv: 14.7% Price: $47 92 Valley).­ Though a half-decade old, this wine remains quite lively. Aromas of baked strawberry, Iron Hub 2017 Grenache (Amador County). Vie Winery 2017 White Hawk Vineyard Syrah nutmeg and gingerbread lead into a palate of roasted­ 89 An aromatic coating of cinnamon and tama- 88 (Santa Barbara County). Black-plum skins, cherry, blistered plum caramel and light mint, prov- rind wraps around rather crisp, tangy, sour-cherry lavender and a hint of balsamic berries show on the ing lush in texture yet with a buoyant acidity. —M.K. and black-plum flavors in this full-bodied, stylistic nose of this bottling. The palate is tart and tangy abv: 14.4% Price: $24 and well-balanced wine. Light tannins and good with black plum, as complexity comes through with acidity keep it dry and fresh. —J.G. hints of thyme and black pepper. —M.K. Cavaletti 2018 The 109 Mile Grenache (Los abv: 14.8% Price: $27 abv: 14.7% Price: $49 92 Angeles County). An ambitious project tying disparate Los Angeles County vineyards into Écluse 2018 Lock Vineyard Winemaker Series Lafond 2017 Lafond Vineyard Syrah (Sta. one bottling, this wine, which includes 4% Mour­ 88 Grenache (Paso Robles). Quite ripe and 87 Rita Hills). Slightly overextracted aromas vèdre, begins with aromas of salted meats, pome- extracted on the nose, this bottling begins with of blackberry paste, raisin and root beer show on granate paste, roasted strawberry and light smoke. baked blackberry, prune, cola and root-beer aro- the nose of this bottling. It’s similar on the palate, The palate packs the variety’s typical red-fruit and mas. The richness works better on the palate, where where those extract fruit tones meet with a crushed gingerbread-spice flavors with hints of caramel and thick fruitcake and raisin flavors lead into a Bour- rock minerality. —M.K. more smoke, lingering deep into the finish.Editors’ bon-like finish. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $24 Choice. —M.K. abv: 15.1% Price: $48 abv: 14.3% Price: $38 Jigar 2017 Tollini Vineyard Syrah (Redwood 86 Valley). Superripe and chocolaty in flavor, Donkey & Goat 2019 Grenache Noir (El MOURVÈDRE this full-bodied and smooth-textured wine offers 92 Dorado). Great balance, a lively texture and raisin and dried plum notes topped with a dusty, complex flavors all combine to make this wine out- Edio 2019 Estate Blend Mourvèdre (Sierra­ sunbaked character. —J.G. standing. It blends good acidity and light tannins 94 Foothills). This deeply concentrated and abv: 14.7% Price: $30 to lift rich plum, apricot and cherry flavors on a ­focused wine from David Girard Vineyards wraps medium body. —J.G. a blanket of fine-grained tannins around a core of Meadowlark 2012 Syrah (Santa Barbara abv: 13.1% Price: $32 black-currant, black-cherry and juicy plum flavors. 85 County). There’s still a bountiful rush of Built for at least mid-term aging, it is full bodied acidity on this nearly decade-old bottle, yet the Bokisch 2017 Estate Grown Terra Alta Vine- but balanced and tempting to drink but it is hold- age is showing in other ways. Aromas of very ripe 91 yard Garnacha (Clements Hills). Powerful but ing back its best stuff until 2023 and beyond. —J.G. yet leathery caramelized berry lead into a smoky, not too tannic, this ripe and round wine matches abv: 14.7% Price: $40 charred berry palate, with slightly bitter tannins. light oak spices of cinnamon and toast with gener- —M.K. ous black-plum and mulled cherry flavors. It’s well Crystal Basin Cellars 2017 Reserve Mourvèdre abv: 15% Price: $35 ­balanced and easy to enjoy. —J.G. 93 (El Dorado). This full-bodied wine captures abv: 14.6% Price: $27 all the meaty, earthy, nutty character of this Rhône Meadowlark 2009 Estate Syrah (Santa Bar- varietal, backing those savory elements with rich 85 bara County). Dried berries and light leather Copia 2018 The Story Grenache (Edna V­alley). plum and tangy notes. Its color is slightly­ aromas show on the nose of this decade-old bottling. 91 This is a dark and intense expression of tawny (not too dark) and telegraphs that this mem- The palate is also leathery, with a hint of cracked ­Grenache, starting with boysenberry fruit and warm orable wine is not a commercial, color-adjusted pepper and woody palo santo flavors. —M.K. licorice spice. The roasted black-plum flavor of the pour. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.75% Price: $35 palate is layered with oak smoke, star anise and gin- abv: 14% Price: $30 gersnaps, with brisk acidity and a tense structure Donkey & Goat 2019 GiGi Sans Soufre Syrah holding up the finish. —M.K. Donkey & Goat 2019 Twinkle Mourvèdre (El 84 (El Dorado). This natural-style, low-alcohol abv: 15.1% Price: $48 88 Dorado). A lively, peppery character gives wine has a funky, doughy, burnt-candy aroma and this light-bodied wine a fresh, brash feel while rather severe mouthfeel that holds cherry and cran- Montemar 2015 Watch Hill Vineyard Grenache vivid plum-skin and cranberry flavors offer plenty berry flavors very tightly. It deserves a try, though, 91 (Santa Barbara County). Dried red cherry, of refreshment. It seems primed for bistro food like because it’s made without added sulfites and may star anise, mace, light pine and smoke aromas steak frites. —J.G. work out with time and the right, rich pairing. —J.G. emerge on the nose of this bottling. There are deli- abv: 11.3% Price: $28 abv: 11.7% Price: $32 cious layers of clove, star anise and dried cherry on the palate, which remains fresh despite five years Montemar 2015 Thompson Vineyard of age. —M.K. 88 Mourvèdre (Santa Barbara County). A bit GRENACHE abv: 14.2% Price: $32 thin on the nose, this bottling slowly lets aromas of black raspberry, carnation and fennel pollen to Lumen 2019 Grenache (Santa Barbara Bee Hunter 2015 Eagle Point Ranch ­Grenache 94 County).­ Lane Tanner, the first independent 90 (Mendocino). This smooth, mature wine

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 emerge. The light flavors of red currant and pome- flavors of this intensely packed wine are held tightly Trentadue 2018 Shoestring Vineyard Estate granate are amped up by rust and licorice. —M.K. by firm tannins, indicating it may be decades before 87 Sangiovese (Alexander Valley). Reduced and abv: 12.1% Price: $38 it opens up for greater enjoyment. A deep dark color waxy, with an enduring earthiness, this red is robust leads to espresso, clove, graphite and 90% cacao in oak and body weight, with brawny black fruit at chocolate on a full body. Best from 2028. —J.G. its core. Baked plum and tobacco play around dry, PETITE SIRAH abv: 14.2% Price: $35 supple tannins that add length. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $36 Theopolis 2018 Estate Grown Petite Sirah Vahali 2018 Jauhar Estate Petite Sirah (Paso 96 (Yorkville Highlands). For full review see 90 Robles). Black-currant, baked plum-cake, Frey 2018 Organic Sangiovese (Mendocino). page 4. Cellar Selection. Dr Pepper and gingerbread aromas make for a very 86 This medium- to full-bodied wine shows abv: 14.5% Price: $40 rich and spicy nose on this bottling. The palate smoky, earthy aromas and a good blackberry-rasp- offers clean, inviting flavors of elderflower and cas- berry core flanked by moderate tannins. It’s on the Rubino Estates Winery 2017 Riserva Collec- sis. —M.K. hearty, rustic side of the spectrum. —J.G. 94 tion Petite Sirah (Livermore Valley). Entic- abv: 14.3% Price: $58 abv: 13.9% Price: $15 ing aromas of singed rosemary and dark chocolate lead to intense flavors of cooked blackberries, sau- Fasi Estate 2019 Petite Sirah (Madera Imagery 2017 Sangiovese (Sonoma County). téed sage and black pepper on a texture of rich, 89 County).­ Full bodied and firmly tannic, 86 Thick tannins gird a palate of dried herb, fine-grained tannins. Great depth and an amazing, this wine offers salt-and-pepper aromas and beefy cedar and oak in this earthy, rustic wine, dipped palate-saturating blend of fruitiness and savoriness blackberry, woodsmoke and black-pepper flavors in lavender and a hint of black licorice. The oak is make this wine well worth seeking out. Best through that are nicely concentrated and lingering. —J.G. chewy and pronounced. —V.B. 2027. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $35 abv: 14.7% Price: $42 abv: 14.9% Price: $29 Vinum Cellars 2017 Pets Petite Sirah (Clarks- Pedroncelli 2018 Alto Vineyards Sangiovese Sol Rouge 2017 Petite Sirah (Lake County). 88 burg). This robust and smoky wine offers 85 (Dry Creek Valley). Thick and tannic, this 94 Monumental concentration and great struc- black-pepper and grilled beef aromas, rich black- substantial red is given 10 months in American oak, ture set up this full-bodied, tannin-laced wine for berry and woodsmoke flavors and a firm, moder- the barrels neutral. Meaty and rustic, it offers notes a long window of drinkability. A mélange of iron, ately tannic texture. It’s fun and rowdy for drinking of cranberry, plum and tobacco. —V.B. black-pepper, grilled beef and blackberry flavors sat- around a firepit with fellow carnivores. —J.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $18 urate the palate and linger a long time on the finish. abv: 14.5% Price: $14 Best from 2024. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Appellations Cellars 2017 Petite Sirah (Cali- BARBERA 84 fornia). This wine has potent black-fruit Donati Family Vineyard 2018 Family Reserve flavors, light to medium body and the usual firm Preston 2018 Barbera (Dry Creek Valley). With 93 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). Dark in the glass, tannins. The aroma is doughy and reduced while the 91 a fruity nose of blackberry and black licorice, this bottling offers deep aromas of black currant and texture feels a bit spritzy, so it’s a mixed bag. —J.G. this light, refined and food-friendly wine is textured blackberry, as well as a slightly savory streak involv- abv: 15% Price: $25 dust and sage. Vibrant acidity keeps it lively and ing black pepper and charred meats. The palate is lengthy. It was made from organically grown grapes. tightly woven for such a big wine, offering fresh —V.B. black fruits plus baking spice, char and vanilla bean. SANGIOVESE abv: 13.8% Price: $32 —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $45 Bottle Jack 2017 Machado Creek Vineyard Bella Grace 2018 Barbera (Amador County). 93 Sangiovese (Santa Clara Valley). Dark-berry 90 This full-bodied wine goes deep and wide, LangeTwins 2018 Diablo Vineyard Petite aromas are wrapped in leather, oregano and a bit of offering concentrated and fairly complex flavors 92 Sirah (Clarksburg). For full review see page game on the nose of this bottling. Flashes of black carried on a more generous texture than usual. It 11. Cellar Selection. plum and berry meet with pine resin, ­cedar and is packed with red and black cherries, some ripe abv: 15% Price: $32 forest-floor elements on the sip, where the acid plums and subtle cinnamon and tamarind flavors. grows steadily and tannins remains firm. Drink now —J.G. Terra d’Oro 2018 Petite Sirah (Amador through 2032. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $34 92 County).­ For full review see page 12. Editors’­ abv: 14.5% Price: $32 Choice. Sobon Estate 2018 Barbera (Amador C­ounty). abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Castello di Amorosa 2016 Voyager Vineyard 88 This is a versatile, well-balanced wine that 88 Sangiovese (Napa Valley). With 2% ­Merlot, will pair with a wide variety of foods. It’s rather Bogle 2018 Petite Sirah (California). ­For full this wine is thick and meaty in baked plum and trim in texture, lightly tannic and backed by good 91 review see page 19. Best Buy. strawberry. A juicy, vibrant midpalate helps to tem- acidity supporting sour-cherry and black-cherry abv: 14.5% Price: $12 per the earthy rusticity and dusty tannin. —V.B. flavors. —J.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $45 abv: 13.8% Price: $17 Hearst Ranch 2018 The Pergola Petite Sirah 91 (Paso Robles). Toasty aromas of blackberry Oak Mountain 2017 Sangiovese (Temecula William Gunn 2016 Barbera (Sierra Foot- jam, vanilla and warm pie crust make for a very 88 Valley). There’s an array of unique quali- 88 hills). Bright cherry and raspberry aromas inviting, oak-kissed nose on this bottling. The oak ties to the nose of this bottling, where aromas of are followed by a deeper red-fruit character on the is prominent, while welcomed on the palate, where muddled strawberry, light licorice, wet soil and palate, and bolstered by lively acidity for a fresh, flavors of butterscotch and cappuccino are drizzled dusty herbs arise. The palate is loaded with mace tangy texture. —J.G. with blackberry compote. —M.K. and nutmeg spice, which lifts the dried cranberry abv: 14.3% Price: $22 abv: 14.2% Price: $35 and wet clay core. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $41 Meyer Family Cellars 2016 Petite Sirah (Yor- 90 kville Highlands). The dark fruit and spice

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BUYINGGUIDE

The Prisoner 2018 Saldo Zinfandel (Califor- amidst the leathery texture and lasting baking spice. ZINFANDEL 92 nia). This posh, smooth and layered wine is —V.B. well packed with blackberry and blueberry flavors abv: 15% Price: $30 Gary Farrell 2017 Grist Vineyard Zinfandel and sprinkled with black and white pepper. A very 94 (Dry Creek Valley). For full review see page full body and velvety tannins give it a broad, mouth- Appellations Cellars 2017 Survivor Old Vine 6. coating texture that helps carry all that tasty fruit 89 Westwind Vineyard Zinfandel (Lodi). Deep abv: 13.5% Price: $50 flavor through the finish. —J.G. blackberry and black-olive flavors are tinged with abv: 15.5% Price: $32 mint and licorice in this full-bodied, rich-textured Sobon Estate 2018 Cougar Hill Zinfandel wine. It’s generous and mouthfilling, showing 93 (Amador County). For full review see page 9. Cavaletti 2019 4th and Haven Zinfandel ­elevated alcohol and not too much tannin. —J.G. Editors’ Choice. 91 (Cucamonga­ Valley). Ripe and accessible abv: 16.1% Price: $38 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 aromas of red currant, strawberry, loamy soil and sweet flowers show on the nose of this bottling from Écluse 2018 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). V. Sattui 2018 Duarte Vineyard Zinfandel a region that once grew the most grapes in Califor- 89 ­Candied, slightly extracted aromas of black 93 (Contra Costa County). Quite deep and con- nia. Cedar and sandalwood flavors frame the jammy, plum and blackberry are a touch tangy on the nose centrated, this luxuriously ripe wine overflows with sappy palate, where blackberry and black-plum fla- of this bottling. The palate is snappy with fresh blackberry-jam and black-pepper flavors on a full vors meet with an herbal hint of pine needle and boysenberry and light licorice flavors, as tart acidity body that is laced with moderate tannins. Hints of finish on a caramel tone. —M.K. carries into the finish. —M.K. wood char and cedar add a spicy, oaky touch that’s abv: 16.6% Price: $42 abv: 14.9% Price: $44 well integrated. —J.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $36 Opaque 2018 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Black- Pedroncelli 2018 Mother Clone Zinfandel 91 berry, cherry, soy and hints of damp oak 88 (Dry Creek Valley). Herbal and peppery, this Beauregard 2018 Beauregard Ranch Zinfandel show on the lush nose of this bottling. Soft tannins wine includes 10% Petite Sirah. Thick and jammy 92 (Santa Cruz Mountains). Ryan Beauregard is make for a voluptuous palate, where roasted black layers of blackberry provide richness along a supple showing smart restraint in his effort to tame and cherry and smoky oak leads to a familiar caramel- palate of weight and breadth, finishing in vanilla- direct this mountain-grown Zinfandel. Aromas of laced finished. —M.K. laced oak. —V.B. berry jam, redwood and charcuterie are complex abv: 15.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.8% Price: $19 and savory on the nose. The lightly bodied palate offers crunchy cranberry, light pomegranate, hints Sidebar 2018 Old Vine Zinfandel (Mokelumne Portalupi 2018 Dolinsek Ranch Old Vine of baked earth and crumpled herbs. There’s a toasty 91 River). This smoky, spicy wine wraps potent 88 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Tasting of tone to the finish.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. blackberry flavors around accents of black pepper, chocolate-covered espresso bean and dark cherry abv: 15% Price: $35 beef and woodsmoke for a dark and delicious effect. and currant, this wine is thick and supple, with It is full-bodied, moderately tannic and nicely con- substantial ripeness. Jammy flavors meet a foun- Bee Hunter 2016 Fashauer Vineyard Zinfandel centrated. —J.G. dation of toasted oak and baking spice, finishing 92 (Anderson Valley). Packed with vibrant red- abv: 14.5% Price: $28 earthy and rustic. —V.B. cherry and raspberry flavors, this technically full- abv: 15% Price: $52 bodied wine feels fresh and lively in texture and has Boekenoogen 2018 Bell Ranch Vineyard mild tannins that give a bit of grip. Its appetizing 90 Zinfandel (Monterey). This is a ripe, tradi- Frey 2019 Organic Zinfandel (Mendocino). balance was probably enhanced by the Anderson tional Zinfandel in all its jammy glory. Aromas of 87 Concentrated in flavor and firmly tannic in Valley’s cool climate. —J.G. strawberry sorbet and blackberry syrup lead into a texture, this full-bodied wine offers smoky, tarry abv: 14.8% Price: $42 fresh, juicy palate of grape Jolly Rancher and baking aromas, potent blackberry flavors and accents of spice, proving playful and joyous to sip. —M.K. grilled herbs. No sulfites added. —J.G. Bella Grace 2018 Zinfandel (Amador County). abv: 15% Price: $42 abv: 14% Price: $15 92 This hearty, almost meaty, wine offers bold blackberry and light woodsmoke flavors on a firm Oak Farm 2019 Estate Grown Primitivo Oak Mountain 2016 Zinfandel (Temecula texture of tannins and good acidity. It has chewy, 90 (Lodi). For full review see page 18. 87 Valley).­ Extracted and smoky aromas of grippy mouthfeel and the concentrated fruit flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $35 hickory, baked black plum, caramel and fudge con- to match that structure. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. verge on the oaky nose of this bottling. The palate abv: 14.3% Price: $20 Paul Dolan 2019 Made with Organic Grapes is coated in oak as well, but touches of baked plum, 90 Zinfandel (Mendocino County). For full nutmeg, clove and caramel also show. —M.K. Ruby Hill Winery 2017 Peacock Patch ­Reserve review see page 18. abv: 16.4% Price: $34 92 Zinfandel (Livermore Valley). Enticing ­spices abv: 14.5% Price: $19 and luscious, ripe fruit flavors make a great combi- Preston 2017 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). nation in this lushly textured full-bodied wine. Aro- Steele 2017 Catfish Vineyard Zinfandel 87 With accents of leather, this red is thick in matic notes of vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg com- 90 (Lake County). This hearty wine shapes dense black fruit, iron and a note of reduction. Made plement palate impressions of warm, sun ripened blackberry and black-pepper flavors with moderate from certified-organic grapes, it contains small blackberries and raspberries. —J.G. tannins and a full body that are attractively mouth- amounts of Mourvèdre and Petite Sirah. —V.B. abv: 15.1% Price: $29 filling. Hints of vanilla, clove and cedar add extra abv: 14.6% Price: $38 interest and a lingering finish. —J.G. Sobon Estate 2018 Rocky Top Zinfandel abv: 14.3% Price: $25 ZinPhomaniac 2019 Old Vines Zinfandel 92 (Amador County). For full review see page 87 (Lodi). This exuberant and fruity wine over- 12. Editors’ Choice. Whipsmart Wine Company 2018 Mossy flows with raspberry and strawberry flavors and abv: 14.5% Price: $18 90 Block Ancient Vines Zinfandel (Russian offers subtle salty, toasty accents. Although full River Valley). Pruney, old-vine red fruit dominates bodied, it’s fairly soft in texture and leaves a sugary Sobon Estate 2018 Zinfandel (Fiddletown). in this bold, brawny wine, which is dense and sub- impression on the finish. —J.G. 92 For full review see page 12. stantial on the palate. From a site planted in 1885 it abv: 15% Price: $18 abv: 15.5% Price: $22 shows Old World ruggedness and a hint of potpourri

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Acre 2018 Zinfandel (Napa Valley). This once this does, there are flavors of rich red fruits, Carol Shelton 2018 Coquille Rouge (Central 86 is an intensely built, ripe and robust red peppery spices and dark chocolate that shifts from 93 Coast). For full review see page 8. Editors’ wine, aged in both European and American oak. slightly bitter to comforting by the finish. —M.K. Choice. Smoked meats, coffee grounds and woody cedar abv: 14.8% Price: $73 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 combine around a supple, richly layered midpalate that finishes smooth and simple. —V.B. Epoch 2017 Veracity (Paso Robles Willow Copia 2018 The Cure (Central Coast). Tightly abv: 14.9% Price: $32 95 Creek District). Quite dark in the glass, this 93 wound aromas of black currant, blackberry blend of 47% Mourvèdre, 34% Grenache and 19% and lavender meet with light herbs and a lava rock Shenandoah Vineyards 2018 Special R­eserve Syrah offers seared plum, purple flower and richly minerality on the still-shy nose of this blend of 36% 86 Zinfandel (Amador County). Superripe and layered spice aromas on the nose. The palate is a Grenache, 32% Syrah and 32% Mourvèdre. Chis- somewhat sweet flavors of dried fruit give this wine lesson in cohesion, with well-integrated waves of eled tannins frame the palate, where blackberry- a Port-like expression. It is quite full bodied and boysenberry, black cherry, purple flowers and lico- jam-on-toast flavors lead into charred caramel packed with raisin and prune notes. —J.G. rice, framed by polished tannins and fresh acidity. toward the finish. There is much complexity to abv: 14.5% Price: $12 —M.K. come. Drink 2022–2032. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 15.4% Price: $70 abv: 14.8% Price: $48 Frey 2019 Biodynamic Zinfandel (Mendocino).­ 84 This full-bodied wine wraps smoky, dark- Justin 2016 Isosceles Reserve (Paso Robles). Écluse 2018 Improv (Paso Robles). Vanilla- berry flavors in firm tannins that give it a drying 95 For full review see page 4. 93 soaked-cherry aromas are remarkably mouthfeel. —J.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $115 subtle and pinpointed on the nose of this blend of abv: 15% Price: $20 29% Carignan, 29% Petite Sirah, 21% Merlot, 14% Benom 2018 Hoc (Paso Robles). It must Zinfandel and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, which also The Messenger 2018 28 Zinfandel (Moon 94 be challenging to make nontraditional red shows star anise and mace scents. There’s a flash 84 Mountain District Sonoma County). Vegan blends that stand out in a lineup, but the French- of acidity on the tip of the sip and then tannins and reductive, this wine is gargantuan in size and born Fabre brothers are doing just that. This blend envelop the palate, delivering black-currant and ripeness, with earthy iron and notes of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Syrah and 17% blackplum flavors. —M.K. ­accenting a core of jammy, over-the-top blackberry Carignan starts with aromas of oregano, marjoram, abv: 14.5% Price: $46 flavor. —V.B. baked earth and black plums. The palate picks up abv: 15.7% Price: $25 the herbal tones, then delivers dark-chocolate, Écluse 2018 Rendition (Paso Robles). This smoked beef and black-currant flavors. —M.K. 93 is a boldly ripe blend of 32% Syrah, 31% Appellations Cellars 2017 Ancestor Reserve abv: 14.8% Price: $68 Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre, 6% Counoise and 6% 83 Zinfandel (Lodi). Tasting mature and mel- Petite Sirah, sure to satisfy those seeking a powerful low, the jammy fruit flavors in this full-bodied wine Paradise Springs 2018 The Roshi (­California). Rhône expression. Smooth aromas of cassis, roasted are giving way to tired balsamic notes. It’s smooth, 94 There’s a lovely integration of purple flow- fig, vanilla cream and hot chocolate lead into a pal- not very tannic and ready to drink. —J.G. ers, fresh blackberry and black plum on the nose ate where firm tannins frame the pleasant raisin, fig abv: 15.12% Price: $65 of this blend of 39% Petit Verdot, 23% Cabernet and even prune flavors. The finish shows Scotch- Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 16% Cabernet Franc. A like smokiness. —M.K. touch of oaky wood spice shows on the palate, where abv: 15.7% Price: $44 RED BLENDS just-right tannins frame rich fruit flavors that are lifted by star anise and licorice spices. —M.K. Edio 2018 Frank’s Blend (Sierra Foothills). Clos Solène 2018 Harmonie (Paso Robles). abv: 14.5% Price: $59 93 Very firm and structured, this tightly knit 96 Very dark in the glass and intense on the wine compresses black cherry, blueberry and dark nose, this blend of 70% Grenache, 16% Syrah and Rangeland 2016 The Watershed (Adelaida chocolate into a moderately tannic frame. Admirably 14% Mourvèdre begins with focused aromas of 94 District). Concentrated black-cherry-­cordial concentrated and deep, it’s built for further aging, black raspberry, dark plum and penetrating spices, aromas meet with toasty mahogany, soy and dried and should be best from 2023. Cellar Selection. proving very rich yet not overextracted. Grippy tan- mushroom aromas on the intense nose of this blend —J.G. nins and balanced acidity frame the sip, which con- of 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 20% abv: 14.7% Price: $60 tinues the intensity, delivering dark-red and purple ­Petit Verdot and 10% Cabernet Franc. There’s a firm fruit with a light dusting of baking spice. Drink now density to the palate, where suave tannins wrap up Hungry Hawk 2018 Estate Super Tuscan (San through 2033. Cellar Selection. —M.K. cocoa, black-plum and purple-flower flavors. —M.K. 93 Diego County). Dark aromas of turned earth, abv: 14.9% Price: $88 abv: 14.3% Price: $40 crushed rocks and dark berries meet with fresh tones of rose petal and raspberry sorbet on the nose of this Benom 2018 Muze (Paso Robles). Dark Ancient Peaks 2017 Oyster Ridge (Santa Mar- blend of 39% Sangiovese, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 95 black-currant and baking-spice aromas float 93 garita Ranch). For full review see page 8. 22% Merlot, 14% Malbec and 1% Shiraz.­ Rounded atop a subtle sense of rugged charred meat and tar abv: 14.5% Price: $60 red-fruit and flower flavors of strawberry, hibiscus on the compelling nose of this blend of 50% Cab- and more rose meet with cedar and tight tannins on ernet Sauvignon, 46% Mourvèdre and 4% Syrah. Aver Family Vineyards 2017 Faith (Santa the medium-bodied palate. —M.K. Tar and charcoal flavors show on the sip alongside 93 Clara Valley). Fresh aromas of cassis, lico- abv: 13.8% Price: $48 dark-purple fruits and flowers, with a touch of dried rice, cocoa and a hint of toasted wood show on the herbs. Still young, but it will age gracefully. —M.K. nose of this blend of 53% Petite Sirah, 44% Syrah, Penfolds 2018 Bin 600 Cabernet-Shiraz (Cal- abv: 14.9% Price: $65 2% Mourvèdre and 1% Grenache. Firm tannins 93 ifornia). For full review see page 9. present dark-fruit flavors along with cocoa and cof- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Clos Solène 2018 Fleur de Solene (Paso fee cream, yet it’s the persistent acidity that keeps 95 Robles).­ Dark aromas of charred black cur- the wine elegant, all the way through the lavender- Pursuit 2018 Campfire Red (Napa Valley). rant and black plums meet with pepper dust, game kissed finish. —M.K. 93 For full review see page 9. and charcoal on the nose of this blend of 53% Syrah, abv: 15.1% Price: $48 abv: 15.5% Price: $55 27% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Grenache. These young wines need plenty of time to open up, but

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BUYINGGUIDE

Top 2017 Inertia G-S-M (Central Coast). Rich ­Merlot. Firm tannins hold up flavors of roasted slightly tangy fruit flavors carrying to the finish. 93 aromas of black plum and fig lead into suave cherry, vanilla and crème brûlée on the palate. —M.K. spices of cola and sarsaparilla and rugged hints of —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $39 earth and leather on the nose of this blend of 49% abv: 15.4% Price: $50 Grenache, 46% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre. Smooth, Buttonwood 2018 Classic Cuvée (Santa Ynez polished tannins frame the sip, where roasted red Cary Q 2018 G-S-M (Amador County). Complex 90 Valley). This is a great go-to wine for mid- cherry, smoke, baked licorice and star anise flavors 91 and full bodied, this bold but smooth wine week satisfaction over pizza, burgers or even more arise. —M.K. offers a delicious mix of fruit, spice and savory fla- elevated fare. Aromas of baked clay, cranberry, abv: 15.3% Price: $68 vors from dried cherry to new leather to black pep- dried oregano and thyme lead into an earthy yet per and clove. It’s layered on the palate and lingers fresh palate of red plums, tart berries and a graph- Benom 2018 Lapsus (Paso Robles). Rich on the finish. —J.G. ite minerality. —M.K. 92 aromas of pomegranate sauce meet with red abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 13.9% Price: $24 flowers, wet soil and crushed rocks on the nose of this blend of 30% Graciano, 30% Mourvèdre, 25% Écluse 2018 Ensemble (Paso Robles). Dark Castello di Amorosa 2016 La Castellana Grenache and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Charred 91 cassis and black-plum aromas meet with 90 ­Super Tuscan (Napa Valley). Made from berry and plum flavors show on the palate, where ­cocoa and oak on the nose of this blend of 33% 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 13% San- hints of leather and tar make for a wild, slightly ­Malbec, 22% Merlot, 17% Petit Verdot, 17% Cab- giovese and 1% each of Malbec and Petit Verdot, gamy experience. —M.K. ernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cari- this is substantial red wine, thick in tannin and abv: 15% Price: $68 gnan. The oak is prominent on the sip, where mocha smoky oak. Plummy and lush, it finishes in deep, and more cassis flavors make for a lush and complex dark chocolate. —V.B. Hood 2016 Red Blend (Paso Robles). experience. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $98 92 Crisp black-raspberry, baked plum and abv: 14.1% Price: $48 ­strawberry-in-caramel-sauce aromas make for a Écluse 2018 Intonation Winemaker Series creamy and lush nose on this bottling. Purple-­flower Justin 2017 Trilateral (Paso Robles). For full 90 (Paso Robles). Crumpled lavender and vio- flavors of lilac and violet meet with underlying cas- 91 review see page 14. let aromas meet with crisp black raspberry, tangy sis, smoke and caramel on the sip, where lingering abv: 15.5% Price: $55 black plum and a hint of incense on the nose of this acidity carries into the finish. —M.K. blend of 29% Cabernet Franc, 29% Cabernet Sau- abv: 15.2% Price: $30 Karine 2018 Accomplice Smith Vineyards vignon, 28% Merlot and 14% Zinfandel. There’s 91 (Calaveras­ County). This full-bodied and a lighter tone on the palate, where those tight red San Simeon 2017 Stormwatch Estate Reserve appropriately tannic wine offers effusive black-fruit fruits meet with bay leaf, herbs and a bit of toast. 92 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 12. aromas, concentrated and dense fruit flavors and —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $80 nicely integrated accents of smoke and toasted oak. abv: 14.2% Price: $50 This blend of 70% Alicante Bouschet and 30% Zin- Skinner 2018 Native (El Dorado). This pol- fandel is big but joyful, bringing buckets of black- Estancia 2017 Reserve Meritage (Paso 92 ished but full-bodied wine accelerates from berries and black cherries to coat the palate. Best 90 Robles).­ Crumpled purple flowers, elder- light earth, leather and plum aromas to rich, broad from 2022–2030. Cellar Selection. —J.G. berry and pencil shavings make for a focused, lin- flavors of dark chocolate, mushrooms and black abv: 14.8% Price: $36 ear nose on this blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, cherries. Made with a field blend of traditional Cali- 16% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 6% Malbec. The fornia grape varieties, its concentration, depth and Meadowlark 2013 Los Olivos Red Blend (Santa palate is also very focused and floral, showing black complexity are compelling. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. 91 Barbara County). For full review see page 15. plum as well as lilac, violet and lavender flavors. abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 14% Price: $30 —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $27 Wood Family Vineyards 2018 G-S-M (Liver- Rangeland 2017 The Shepherd (Adelaida Dis- 92 more Valley). Full bodied and full flavored, 91 trict). Exuberant purple flower aromas meet Highlands 41 2019 Black Granite (Paso this generous wine layers plum and blackberry on with aacia, and cola spice on the 90 Robles).­ For full review see page 20. Best black-pepper and grilled beef flavors for an abso- nose of this blend of 35% Syrah, 35% Mourvèdre Buy. lutely satisfying blend of fruity and savory refer- and 30% Grenache. There’s a wild array of pepper abv: 14.5% Price: $15 ences. Moderate tannins and a touch of acidity give and herbs on the lighter bodied palate, from green it an appetizing texture. —J.G. and white peppercorns to wild thyme and berry Knights Bridge 2017 Estate (Knights Valley). abv: 14.8% Price: $34 juice. —M.K. 90 Iron and rock elements complement a thick abv: 14.8% Price: $40 and concentrated midpalate of black currant, gun- Buttonwood 2016 Trevin (Los Olivos District). powder and tannin in this robust, complex blend. 91 Dried red-plum paste, rose petals, pepper- Skinner 2018 Eighteen Sixty-One (El Dorado). Powerfully intense, it delivers a wealth of flavor and corns and pencil shavings make for an elegant nose 91 Floral and fruity notes compete for attention texture, finishing in substantial oak. —V.B. on this blend of 30% Cabernet Franc, 27% Merlot, in this flavorful, full-bodied Rhône-style blend as abv: 14.5% Price: $50 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Malbec. The moderate tannins support rose petal, strawberry palate is loaded with earthy herbs of marjoram and and concentrated black cherry on the palate. Best Meadowlark 2015 Red (Santa Barbara oregano alongside flavors of crumpled rose petals through 2024. —J.G. 90 County).­ Dried berries, leather and damp and roasted cranberry. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $36 wood aromas show on this blend Cabernet Franc, abv: 14% Price: $36 Petit Verdot, Sangiovese and Syrah. Leather also AJA Vineyards 2014 Proprietary Red Wine comes through on the sip, as do incense and red- Byron Blatty 2018 Tremor (Los Angeles 90 (Malibu Coast). Tart black-raspberry and wood flavors as well as licorice and dark, deep red- 91 County).­ There’s a pleasantly rustic, per- light yet fresh strawberry aromas meet with hints fruit flavors. —M.K. haps old-vine-related character to Grenache-based of slate and turned soil on the nose of this bottling abv: 15% Price: $30 wines from Los Angeles County, including the dried from Malibu. There’s an earthy streak of crushed cherry, dried meat and salt-and-pepper nose on rocks and loamy earth on the palate, with snappy, Rootdown 2019 Es Okay (Mendocino). this bottling, which includes 20% Syrah and 10% 90 G­rapey, jammy and packed with enough

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 black-pepper aromas to trigger a sneeze, this and mace flavors on the palate, which finishes on a grape, and this bottling bursts forth with aromas of medium-bodied wine is fresh and gulpable. Light ­Concord grape tone. —M.K. strawberry, cranberry, rose potpourri, rusty earth tannins and subtle acidity keep the texture lively. abv: 13.9% Price: $17 and cinnamon. There’s tension to the brisk sip, —J.G. where sage, marjoram and bay leaf give depth to the abv: 13.9% Price: $18 Meadowlark 2016 Red (Santa Barbara crisp cranberry fruit. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 88 County).­ This kitchen-sink blend of Cab- abv: 13.51% Price: $36 Thacher 2017 Constant Variable (Central ernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese and Syrah 90 Coast). This blend of 54% Grenache, 32% shows charred meat, blackberry-jam, licorice and Bargetto 2018 Regan Vineyards Syrah and 14% Mourvèdre starts with a somewhat purple-flower aromas on the nose. Deep and dark 92 (Santa Cruz Mountains). Grown from a grape tangy nose of aacia, lilac and plum skins. The palate flavors arise on the palate, where dry tannins frame native to the family’s Italian hometown, this darkly is a bit tart as well, yet that fresh character adds rugged flavors of charred meat and cedar, leading colored wine begins with surprisingly subtle aromas length to the juicy dark-fruit, cola, mint, sandal- into a slightly bitter finish. —M.K. of boysenberry, black plum and spice cake. Sandy wood and potpourri flavors. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $30 tannins frame the dark-plum and sandalwood fla- abv: 14.3% Price: $48 vors, which are dissected by a mineral streak of rust Sobon Estate 2018 A Pemium (Amador and blood. The elegance will only shine with time. William Gunn NV The Boss A Big Red Blend 88 County). This full-bodied and moderately Drink now–2033. Cellar Selection. —M.K. 90 (El Dorado). ­For full review see page 21. tannic wine offers handsome white-pepper and abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Best Buy. toasted oak aromas followed by tasty blackberry abv: 14.5% Price: $15 and beef flavors. It shows good concentration and a LangeTwins 2017 Jahant Woods 02 Vineyard firm but rounded texture. —J.G. 92 Teroldego (Jahant). For full review see page Broadside 2018 Printers Alley (Paso Robles). abv: 14.5% Price: $17 11. Editors’ Choice. 89 Cola and Dr Pepper spice aromas meet with abv: 14% Price: $32 dark cherry and oregano on the complex nose of this Steele 2017 Persona Non Grata (Lake bottling. The cola spice is strong on the palate as 88 County).­ Tasty blackberry and blueberry Angeleno 2018 Alonso Family Vineyard T­annat well, where cappuccino, star anise, nutmeg and bay flavors are ripe and jammy in this medium-bodied, 91 (Sierra Pelona Valley). Intriguing aromas leaf also arise, alongside dry notes of cocoa. Editors’­ lightly tannic wine. It’s well packed with fruitiness, of incense and singed pine meet with dark cherry Choice. —M.K. smooth in texture and easy to enjoy. —J.G. and berry fruits on the nose of this bottling from abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 a region northeast of Los Angeles. There’s a woody hint of palo santo to the sip, with light brushes of Donkey & Goat 2019 The Gallivanter (Cali- Verdon Estate 2018 Reserve No. 5 (Cali- cranberry and plum, set against still-tight tannins. 89 fornia). This light-bodied wine has a slim, 88 fornia). This superdense, full-bodied and —M.K. gripping texture and fresh berry and red-cherry firmly tannic wine is quite dry and somewhat aus- abv: 13% Price: $40 flavors accented by hints of earth and black pepper. tere, yet offers attractive dark-chocolate, charcoal It’s lively and fresh, great for lunch instead of a rosé. and black-licorice flavors. Best from 2023. —J.G. LangeTwins 2017 River Ranch Vineyard Petit —J.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $58 91 Verdot (Jahant). For full review see page 14. abv: 12% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $32 Donkey & Goat 2018 The Bear (El Dorado). Miro 2018 Cuvée Sasha Grenache-Syrah 87 Bright black-cherry and strawberry aromas Battuello 2018 Valdiguié (St. Helena). For 89 (Mendocino County). What a good, meaty lead to a tangy, moderately tannic palate full of 90 full review see page 16. alternative to simply fruity-oaky red blends! This sour-cherry and blackberry flavors that are ener- abv: 12.5% Price: $45 medium-bodied and lightly tannic Rhône-style gized by a tangy, almost spritzy texture. It’s an blend is savory, offering flavors of mushroom, roast enjoyable, non-conformist wine. —J.G. Écluse 2018 Lock Vineyard Winemaker beef, leather and earth over subtle pomegranate abv: 12.2% Price: $42 90 ­Series Tannat (Paso Robles). Roasted black fruit. —J.G. cherry aromas make for a gooey entry to this wine, abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Bota Box NV RedVolution (California). A which is wrapped in caramel and strong oak on the 85 touch of sweetness smooths out this nicely nose. It’s thick on the palate with coffee cream, milk Montemar 2015 Thompson Vineyard (Santa fruity and lightly spicy wine. It’s soft in texture, full chocolate and more roasted red-fruit flavors. —M.K. 89 Barbara County). A simple bottling that bodied and mouthfilling, offering blackberry and abv: 16.1% Price: $52 would work well as a midweek , this hints of black pepper. Best Buy. —J.G. wine begins with lean aromas of roasted red plum, abv: 13.5% Price: $23/3 L LangeTwins 2018 Redtail Vineyard Nero crumpled red flower and ample baking spice. The 90 d’Avola (Jahant). For full review see page 17. palate is crisp, with red-fruit and carnation flavors, abv: 14% Price: $32 wrapped in tense tannins and finishing on roasted OTHER RED WINES meat. —M.K. Portalupi 2018 L Venturi Vineyard Charbono abv: 13.1% Price: $38 Lieu Dit 2017 (Santa Maria Valley). 90 (Mendocino County). This dense, tannic 96 Stunning aromas of dark cherry, wild rasp- and concentrated wine holds its deep blueberry, 689 Cellars 2018 Killer Drop (California). berry, gamy meats, dark soil and slate recall a hike cranberry and woodsmoke flavors tightly. It’s a rare 88 Attractive mint, menthol and cedar aromas through a damp forest full of mushrooms, moss and varietal in California and requires either patience continue in the flavors of this full-bodied, oaky and fallen trees. The game-like umami character of the on the part of the drinker or an indulgent, rich dish chocolaty wine. —J.G. palate meets with fresh strawberry, tarragon, sage to pair it with. Best after 2028. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 and toasted pumpkin seed, making for a unique and abv: 12.9% Price: $40 compelling wine. —M.K. KIng Chancho 2017 Bandito’s Blood (Cen- abv: 12.8% Price: $40 Trentadue 2017 Old Orchard Estate Monte­ 88 tral Coast). Aromas of black plum, baked 90 pulciano (Alexander Valley). Soft and blackberry, nutmeg and flower petals show on the Thacher 2019 Glenrose Vineyard Cinsault supple in rustic blueberry, cranberry and cherry, nose of this blend, which comes in a squat bottle. 93 (Adelaida District). Sherman Thacher and this is a big, bold wine with considerable tannins Dry, slightly rough tannins frame dark red-fruit crew are leaders in the resurgence of this Rhône that integrate with ease. Toasted oak notes carry it

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BUYINGGUIDE through a long finish of leathery baking spice and notes combine in this rather lean, dry, moderately Bluebird Hill 2018 Reserve Chardonnay (Wil- cocoa powder. —V.B. tannic wine. —J.G. 93 lamette Valley). Rich and creamy, with a abv: 14.8% Price: $34 abv: 13.6% Price: $35 leesy, textured mouthfeel, this offers perfectly rip- ened tree fruits along with light streaks of caramel Whipsmart Wine Company 2019 One Fine and buttered nuts. It’s a wine of impeccable balance, 90 Morning Dolcetto (Russian River Valley). SWEET WINES with what seems to be more new oak exposure than This wine is whole-cluster fermented via carbonic the regular bottling, but not at all too much. The , providing a lasting freshness and verve Amador Cellars NV Doce Flor ­ youthful energy of this young wine argues for drink- on the palate. Light and delicate in color and struc- 92 (Amador County). This luscious, forti- ing it sooner rather than later, though it should be ture, this wine is simple, focused and food-friendly, fied wine made from a variety famous in Portugal fine over the next half decade. —P.G. fruity in plum and wild grape, ideally served chilled. is super­saturated with semisweet flavors of black abv: 14.3% Price: $49 —V.B. plum, boysenberry and spicy notes like vanilla, cin- abv: 13% Price: $25 namon and clove. Blue cheese and toasted walnuts Rex Hill 2016 Jacob-Hart Vineyard Chardon- will love it. —J.G. 93 nay (Chehalem Mountains). This has plenty Appellations Cellars 2016 Centenarians abv: 19% Price: $28/375 ml of bottle age, so drink up. From the estate’s top 89 ­Reserve Century Vine Carignane (Lodi). This vineyard, it’s rich and creamy, with buttery apple full-bodied wine is well packed with black fruit Amador Cellars 2015 Rocky Point Vineyard pie flavors in abundance. It was fermented and aged flavors on a moderately tannic structure that gives 90 Late Harvest Zinfandel (Amador County). in a mix of oak barrels and concrete egg. Just 14% of some bite to the texture. Black-cherry and cherry- When Zinfandel grapes are left to ripen and shrivel the barrels were new. —P.G. cola flavors are accented by mellow, woody, nutty to the point of overt sweetness, they can make a abv: 14.1% Price: $75 notes. —J.G. potently flavorful wine like this that is lightly sweet abv: 15.7% Price: $65 and very full bodied. It will be a good after-dinner The Eyrie Vineyards 2018 Chardonnay drink or a good choice for pairing with dried, aged 93 (Dundee Hills). Not many pedigreed, iconic, Karine 2017 The Dance Old Victorian Vine- cheese. —J.G. pioneering American put out estate-grown 88 yard Alicante Bouschet (Calaveras County). abv: 16% Price: $32 wines at this price. Wiht 60% of the grapes coming Handsome oaky flavors are intertwined with grilled from the original 53-year-old vines, this delicious plum and mulled black cherries in this full-bodied V. Sattui 2019 Riesling (Anderson Valley). wine is scented with Bourbon barrel, flavored with and moderately tannic wine. Balsam, clove and 88 This sweet wine overflows with ripe peach ripe mixed apples, and finished with spicy pie crust. woodsmoke join mellow, mature fruit flavors. —J.G. flavors and has a characteristic light smoke and Yet it remains elegant, supple and precise; it’s in no abv: 13.5% Price: $34 meat aroma. It’s mouthcoating and medium bodie way over the top. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. and similar in sweetness to a German Auslese. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $27 Hawley 2017 Camporelli Vineyard Reserve abv: 12.5% Price: $29 88 (Sonoma Valley). Tannic and Abbott Claim 2018 Chardonnay (Willamette smoky, with meaty midpalate, this is a robust, rustic 92 Valley). This new Oregon project from Beck and dusty wine, chewy in raisiny tannins. —V.B. OREGON Family Estates debuts with a fresh, minerally blend abv: 14.8% Price: $48 of grapes from Seven Springs, X Omni and Chehalem CHARDONNAY Mountain vineyards. Indigenous yeast fermenta- Rootdown 2019 St Amant Vineyard Trous- tions were done in one-third new oak, then aged in 88 seau (Amador County). This light, fresh and Abbott Claim 2017 X Omni Vineyards Char- stainless steel prior to bottling. Green melon, green quaffable wine is light in color, medium in body and 95 donnay (Eola-Amity Hills). For full review apple, apple skin and cucumber flavors combine in a nicely fruity-spicy in flavor. Raspberries and red see page 4. wine with excellent balance and penetration. —P.G. cherries are accented by black pepper giving it a abv: 13% Price: $115 abv: 13.3% Price: $65 lively, refreshing character. —J.G. abv: 12% Price: $34 Day 2018 Belle Pente Vineyard Chardonnay Ayoub 2018 Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Rich 95 (Yamhill-Carlton). This astonishing wine 92 and tangy lemon drop candy fruit sasses the Saini 2018 Trailer Block Old Vine Carignane does for Oregon Chardonnay what Cayuse has done palate, with more citrus, pineapple and nectarine 88 (Dry Creek Valley). Inviting fruity flavors of for Oregon Syrah—utterly reinvented it. Thick with right behind. With its mouthfilling, chunky qual- cherry and berry are accented in vibrant vanilla in flavors of mashed pears, peaches and sweet lem- ity, this fruit-powered, big-shouldered Chardon- this easygoing, full-bodied wine. Tobacco, leather ons, it’s big but still nuanced. Scents and streaks nay retains enough acidity to lift itself up through a and cedar components give it additional likability of flower pollen, lemon meringue, baking spices and racy, cleansing finish. Barrel fermented in 10% new and length. —V.B. more make this compelling wine both fascinating French oak, it should be enjoyed over the next half abv: 14.5% Price: $45 and challenging. Winemaker Brianne Day ferments decade. —P.G. with native yeast in one-third new puncheon and abv: 13.2% Price: $55 Temecula Hills 2016 Estate Tempranillo (Cal- two-thirds neutral barrels. This is simply stunning. 88 ifornia). For full review see page 19. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Bluebird Hill 2019 Chardonnay (Willamette abv: 14.7% Price: $34 abv: 13.4% Price: $40 92 Valley). For full review see page 10. Editors’ Choice. Wood Family Vineyards 2018 Petit Verdot White Walnut 2018 Worden Hill Rd. Chardon- abv: 13.9% Price: $32 87 (Livermore Valley). Bold cherry and mint 95 nay (Dundee Hills). For full review see page aromas lead to spicy notes and good black-cherry fla- 5. Brick House 2018 Cascadia Chardonnay (Rib- vors that come out on the palate in this full-bodied abv: 13.6% Price: $55 92 bon Ridge). Crisp and layered, with whiffs of high-octane wine. —J.G. flower and spice, this appealing young wine offers abv: 15.4% Price: $32 White Walnut 2018 Chardonnay (Dundee fresh apple fruit, along with lighter, well-defined 94 Hills). For full review see page 7. Editors’ flavors of cucumber and white peach. The low alco- Fasi Estate 2019 Estate Charbono (Madera). Choice. hol is in keeping with the flavor profile, but the 82 Cola, roasted veggies and black-pepper abv: 13.5% Price: $40

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 biodynamic farming brings great depth and detail, numerous details of pollen and yeast and herbal tea. this is a limited edition wine, sourced from the orig- unusual in such a lightly ripened wine. —P.G. —P.G. inal vines, now a half century old. This is done in abv: 12% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $55 a subtle, elegant style that rewards your full atten- tion. Hints of bee pollen, lemon rind and brioche Chehalem 2018 Reserve Chardonnay A to Z 2019 Chardonnay (Oregon). Solid adorn a deceptively light but textured and layered 92 (Dundee Hills). Formerly Ian’s Reserve, then 88 winemaking elevates this affordable wine, wine with a lingering finish. The green apple fruit Stoller Reserve, what’s in the bottle remains the sourced from vineyards north, south and in- anchors the palate without dominating. —P.G. same—fresh, clean and tasty single-vineyard juice. between. The fruit mix is pleasant but generic, abv: 13.5% Price: $41 There’s a polished mix of apple and pear fruit, anno- mostly apple flavors. There are interesting hints of tated with touches of sliced orange and a smooth, buttered herbs and chicken stock, light enough to be The Eyrie Vineyards 2018 Pinot Gris (Dundee well-integrated finish with a lingering suggestion of considered unusual accents. The wine was not put 93 Hills). Eyrie was the first to plant Pinot Gris butter cookie. It was barrel fermented and aged in through . —P.G. in America, long before it became Oregon’s most 20% new oak. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 famous white grape. No surprise that five decades abv: 13.9% Price: $40 later it’s Eyrie that makes the state’s most distinc- Acrobat 2019 Chardonnay (Oregon). Quite tive, elegant version of the grape. Beautifully tex- The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 Original Vines Char- 88 accessible and enjoyable already, this mixes tured mixed tree fruits—apple and white peach— 92 donnay (Dundee Hills). As the label indi- pear and apple flavors into a smooth, fruit-driven are on display here, along with details of freshly cates, some of these vines date back half a century. wine with just the right dollop of buttery bar- baked bread and light herbs such as parsley. A touch The layered flavors of kiwi, apple and pear fruit are rel toast. It’s balanced and medium-bodied, nicely of melon comes up in the back palate, and the wine accented with scents and hints of mint and bubble- pulled together and a fine value. —P.G. just keeps chugging along through a marvelous fin- gum. The long, detailed finish brings a touch of bit- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 ish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ter lemon rind. As with so many of Eyrie’s white and abv: 13.9% Price: $21 red wines, the aging potential on this is well beyond Trathen Hall 2018 Arlyn Vineyard Chardon- average. Drink now and over the next decade. —P.G. 88 nay (Chehalem Mountains). This verges on Cardwell Hill 2019 Estate Bottled Pinot Gris abv: 13% Price: $60 sourness, with green apple fruit flavors and a touch 92 (Willamette Valley). A chunky, fruity, tangy of gooseberry. Fermented and aged 16 months in style, this delicious bottle pulls tangerine, pear and Cardwell Hill 2019 Estate Bottled The Bard neutral barrels, it nonetheless shows a hint of toast apple fruit flavors into the center ring. It’s spicy, 91 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Done in a in the finish. Definitely a wine for acid lovers, best juicy and just plain yummy. As in past , the fine-tuned, lightly spicy style, this offers focused served as an accompaniment to something along the intensity is further amped up by perfectly pitched fruit flavors of apple, melon and tangerine. It was lines of garlic-roasted chicken. —P.G. acidity, thanks to no malolactic fermentation. Edi- organically farmed and barrel fermented, and abv: 13% Price: $26 tors’ Choice. —P.G. though there’s little evidence of new wood, a pleas- abv: 12.9% Price: $20 ant hint of coconut water rolls through the finish. —P.G. PINOT BLANC Winter’s Hill 2018 Reserve Pinot Gris (Dundee abv: 13.5% Price: $24 92 Hills). Fermented in a mix of French oak The Eyrie Vineyards 2019 Pinot Blanc (Dundee barrels and stainless steel, this rich, textural take Wilkens Family 2018 Chardonnay (Willamette 91 Hills). This is a finesse wine, scented and fla- on Pinot Gris boasts multiple layers. Plenty of ripe 91 Valley). This is the reserve label for Abbey vored with apple skins as well as flesh. There are pear fruit anchors the palate, laced with touches of Road Farm. It’s a two-barrel selection from the subtle suggestions of green pineapple and citrus, baking spice, vanilla cream and toasted walnuts. A same sources as the regular Chardonnay, but here and the wine is balanced and quite refreshing. The most pleasurable wine for enjoying over the next one of the barrels was new, bringing strong scents overall impact lingers far beyond the immediate two or three years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. of clove and cinnamon spice as the wine is poured. lightness of flavor.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $29 Pure apple fruit flavors carry out the impression abv: 13% Price: $21 of cinnamon, and the flavors hold firm though the A to Z 2019 Pinot Gris (Oregon). For full mouthfeel seems to flatten out a bit through the Yamhill Valley 2018 Estate Pinot Blanc 90 review see page 15. Editors’ Choice. back palate. Drink this over the next two or three 91 (McMinnville). This is nicely differentiated abv: 13.5% Price: $16 years. —P.G. from both Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, grapes it may abv: 11.6% Price: $70 often closely resemble. Here it occupies the middle Yamhill Valley 2019 Estate Pinot Gris ground, picking up the apple, pear and melon fruit 90 (McMinnville). Well-defined flavors feature Abbey Road Farm 2018 Chardonnay (Willa- of the former, and some of the buttery barrel toast green melon, lime and apple, with a sharp hint of 90 mette Valley). A 50-50 blend of Yamhill- of the latter. Overall it’s fresh, balanced and moder- gooseberry. It’s a fresh, minerally style, relatively Carlton and Ribbon Ridge fruit, this outperforms ately long. —P.G. low in alcohol but nicely balanced. It did not go the listed low alcohol degree of ripeness. It’s crisp abv: 13.8% Price: $25 through malolactic, so it’s a style that favors acid and lean to be sure, with ample lime, grapefruit lovers. —P.G. and green apple flavors firmly framed with phenolic Winter’s Hill 2018 Reserve Pinot Blanc abv: 13% Price: $22 highlights from whole-cluster . No new oak 90 (Dundee Hills). This barrel-fermented wine was used. —P.G. features green and yellow apple flavors, edged with Territorial 2019 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val- abv: 11.9% Price: $37 citrusy acidity. There’s a hint of skin contact in the 88 ley). This is done in an easy-going, lightly tart, sharp and well-defined finish. This should fruity style, with an appealing flinty character. Fer- White Walnut 2018 North Blocks Chardon- drink nicely over the next half decade. —P.G. mented entirely in stainless, its slightly granular 90 nay (Dundee Hills). This complex, organi- abv: 13.3% Price: $29 pear fruit is laced with lemon. The finish leaves a cally grown block selection dramatically reflects lingering hint of spice. —P.G. the winery’s dedication to native yeasts, minimal abv: 13.2% Price: $19 intervention and mixed fermentation vessels. It’s PINOT GRIS got a wild streak a mile wide, which may delight The Great Company 2019 La some palates and mystify others. The tart peach and The Eyrie Vineyards 2019 Pinot Gris (Dundee 87 Chouette Vineyard Pinot Gris (Willamette citrus flavors turn sour as they wind down, with 94 Hills). The handwritten label indicates that Valley). Despite its youth, this is a mellow, simple

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BUYINGGUIDE wine, with pleasantly generic varietal flavors touch- intensely fragrant wine bursting with citrus oil and The Eyrie Vineyards NV Spark (Willamette ing on pear fruit. The buttery finish suggests that white flower scents and flavors. Spicy lemon, apple 87 Valley). Spark is a light, crown-capped some or all may have gone through malolactic fer- and white peach fruit shows both focus and com- blend of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir and Doré. mentation. Drink this over the next year or two, plexity, leading into a finish with bitter botanicals. Despite the low alcohol it’s finished dry, with sim- chilled a bit to bring more focus. —P.G. —P.G. ple, pleasant flavors of watermelon and strawberry. abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 14.4% Price: $28 It’s basically a blended rosé with light carbonation added. —P.G. Willamette Valley Vineyards 2019 White abv: 11.4% Price: $28 OTHER WHITE WINES 90 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 18. Ransom 2019 Frizzante Bianco Pinot Noir Trathen Hall 2018 Le Pavillon Vineyard Ries- abv: 12.5% Price: $30 85 (Eola-Amity Hills). This crown-capped pét- 93 ling (Dundee Hills). This exceptional wine nat has scents of hay and funk, with light apple fruit is made from old vines dating back to 1972. It’s The Eyrie Vineyards 2019 Chasselas Doré flavors. It’s like drinking an apple-flavored sparkling bursting with zippy fruit flavors of lemon, melon, 88 (Dundee Hills). A pale, dry, ephemeral water—refreshing, simple and evanescent. —P.G. tangerine and pineapple. Though fermented dry, expression of a grape originally from the Jura and abv: 12.9% Price: $26 it has enough residual sweetness to bring hints of Alps regions of France, this white wine is exception- rock candy along for the ride. Drink now through ally rare in the U.S. Sourced from a scant two rows the mid-2030s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. in the winery’s Sisters Vineyard, it’s not as searingly ROSÉ abv: 11.9% Price: $28 acidic as one might expect, but does bring pleasant flavors of apple juice and skins. It was organically Rex Hill 2019 Pinot Noir Rosé (Willamette Territorial 2018 Equinox Vineyard Riesling grown and aged about six months on the lees. —P.G. 92 Valley). Rex Hill’s rosé is as good as it gets 92 (Willamette Valley). Consistency is the abv: 9.5% Price: $27 in Oregon. The fun begins with the clear bottle, watchword for this single-vineyard effort. It’s lushly covered with embossed white flowers, that lets the fruity with a ripe mix of pears, tangerines and apri- The Eyrie Vineyards 2016 Melon de Bour- pretty coral color of the wine show through (just cots. Balancing acidity doesn’t push it too hard, and 88 gogne (Dundee Hills). Now rarely seen, keep it away from any sunlight). Strawberries and 16 g/L of residual sugar rounds it off without turn- this light white wine used to be fairly common in cocoa powder flavors shine here, with an appealing ing it sugary. It’s built to age well over the next eight Oregon, though mired in confusion as to its actual dusty character and a layered, lingering finish.Edi - to 10 years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. origins. Done here in a forward, roundly fruity style, tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 it’s lightly spiced with appealing apple and pear fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 vors. —P.G. Trathen Hall 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Wil- abv: 12% Price: $45 92 lamette Valley). The pungent, racy aromas PINOT NOIR are reminiscent of South African versions of the Troon 2019 Amphora Amber grape, married to rich and sappy fruit flavors. It’s 88 (Applegate Valley). A slightly muddy yel- Dion 2018 Old Vines Pinot Noir (Chehalem strongly varietal with ripe lemon, lime and grape- low-orange hue, this was fermented and aged 10 96 Mountains). The old vines—Pommard fruit commanding the broad citrus display. Juicy months in amphorae on the skins. It is a decid- clone, own-rooted, and planted in 1976—offer a rare acidity keeps it refreshing through the finish. The edly . Soft, slightly oxidized and silky peek into Oregon’s winemaking past. The subtle lay- fruit was sourced from the Croft and La Chenaie smooth, it shows pretty orange and tangerine fruit, ering, depth and detail of this wine are impressive, vineyards, then fermented and aged principally in more like fruit leather than freshly squeezed. The as is the sheer power of these old vines. Red berries, neutral French oak. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. winery believes it’s a style that will age well; time cherries, nectarines and even a hint of pineapple are abv: 13.2% Price: $24 will tell. —P.G. evident, with silky tannins and perfectly set acid- abv: 13.1% Price: $35 ity. Aged in 50% new barrels, it’s a gem. Editors’ Troon 2019 Côtes du Kubli Cowhorn Vineyard Choice. —P.G. 92 Blanc (Applegate Valley). This rich blend abv: 13.8% Price: $65 of Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne was sourced SPARKLING WINES from the biodynamic Cowhorn Vineyard and fer- The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 Pinot Noir (Dundee mented with wild yeasts. It’s thick and viscous, The Great Oregon Wine Company 2016 Coles 95 Hills). This single-vineyard cuvée features loaded with ripe, almost unctuous fruit flavors of 90 Valley Vineyard Blanc de Noir (Umpqua Val- some of the original vines from the 1965 planting peach, apricot and sweet pear. Though not a dessert ley). This was disgorged in September 2020 after at Eyrie. It’s as Burgundian in style as it gets in wine, there’s enough fruit sweetness to give it a full- four years en tirage. It’s a crisp, clean, fresh and Oregon, without losing its sense of prime place in bodied finish, buoyed by moderate acidity. —P.G. youthful sparkling wine, all Pinot Noir but more like the Dundee Hills. Subtle, elegant and detailed, it’s abv: 13.4% Price: $35 a Blanc de Blancs in flavors. Grapefruit, apple and layered with cherries, strawberries and hints of white peach fruit mix together, with a fine mousse nectarines. There’s an appealing creamy character, Cowhorn 2019 Reserve Viognier (Applegate and moderate aging potential. —P.G. and a whiff of sweet tobacco. It’s perfectly balanced 91 Valley). Cowhorn’s invariably abv: 14.2% Price: $44 and should age beautifully. Drink now through the present themselves as concentrated, aromatic and mid-2030s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. loaded with citrusy highlights. This new reserve Abbey Road Farm 2019 Sparkling Pinot Gris abv: 13% Price: $80 is no exception, with lemon rind and lemon curd 88 (Chehalem Mountains). Sourced from the among the full-bodied tree fruit flavors. It seems to Dion Vineyard, this refreshing, lightly sweet bubbly The Eyrie Vineyards 2015 South Block Origi- have spent some time in new wood, bringing pretty is much like a Prosecco, done with the pear fruit fla- 95 nal Vines Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). The flavors of vanilla wafer and butter cookie into the vors of this iconic Oregon grape. Hints of honey that South Block designate, from the original planting at finish. —P.G. streak through the nose and the palate, along with Eyrie, had not been produced since founder David abv: 14.4% Price: $50 the fruit sweetness that rounds off the acidity, make Lett passed away. Until now. These half-century- this exceptionally versatile as an aperitif, a mimosa old, phylloxera-ravaged vines don’t have much far- Cowhorn 2019 Spiral 36 (Applegate Val- mixer or even poured after dinner with a chunk of ther to go, so this is a real treasure. Richly layered 90 ley). The blend in 2019 is 45% Viognier, blue cheese. —P.G. with strawberries, cherries and orange peel, the 20% Marsanne and 35% Roussanne, yielding an abv: 11.6% Price: $29 flavors tunnel down and through, bringing black

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 fruits along with streaks of dark chocolate and cara- Lichtenwalter 2018 Joy Block Pinot Noir continue the highlighting of dark fruits and barrel mel. It’s full, round and surprisingly fruity, drink- 94 (Ribbon Ridge). The first estate wines from toast, finishing with a seam of espresso. —P.G. ing nicely but cellarable over the next half decade. this excellent vineyard were made by Drew Voit. abv: 13.8% Price: $55 —P.G. This limited bottling is a field blend of seven clones abv: 12% Price: $180 from the original planting 15 years ago. It’s wonder- Day 2017 Momtazi Vineyard Pinot Noir fully detailed with subtle, lingering, layered flavors 93 (McMinnville). Sourced from a much- Abbott Claim 2018 Due North Pinot Noir of berries, rock and seashell. Hints of lime and sought-after biodynamic vineyard, this wine sneaks 94 (Yamhill-Carlton). For full review see page peavine bring further complexity as the wine keeps up on you. At first it’s light and herbal, but as it 5. developing on the palate. A wonderful debut that breathes open it gains texture, detail and length. abv: 13% Price: $115 may be enjoyed immediately or cellared for another Tart wild berries, dried leaves, the barest hint of half decade. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. new barrel toast (15% were new) and a mix of dried Ayoub 2018 Brittan Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 14.1% Price: $49 herbs all come together in this beautifully balanced 94 (McMinnville). This captures the expres- effort. It’s a salute to the complexity possible even sive minerality of Robert and Ellen Brittan’s vine- The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 Daphne Pinot Noir in a lighter, more challenging vintage. —P.G. yard, with pinpoint details of bright, focused rasp- 94 (Dundee Hills). The five single-vineyard abv: 13.5% Price: $54 berry fruit and tongue-drying rock. It’s dense and selections from Eyrie are partially determined by focused, young and tightly wound, with the struc- elevation, Daphne being the highest, topping out at Dion 2018 Winemaker’s Reserve Pinot Noir ture and acidity to age for a considerably long time. 860 feet. All Pommard clones between 45 and 35 93 (Chehalem Mountains). Four Dion clones Drink 2022–2032. Cellar Selection. —P.G. years of age, it was fermented with wild yeast and are in the blend here, and the finished blend spent abv: 13.5% Price: $55 aged in 12% new barrels. Tart and elegant, the basic 14 months in half new French oak. It’s a muscular framing of fruit and acidity and tannin is perfect, wine, with blueberries and plums and cherries and Bluebird Hill 2018 South Block Reserve Pinot the raspberry core bright and lingering as it leads chocolate. The tannins are substantial, ripe and 94 Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see into a long finish touching on cherry. From start firm, and anchor a balanced wine that should age page 5. to finish it’s an elegant wine, which should drink well. Drink now and over the next decade. Cellar abv: 13.5% Price: $49 nicely into the mid-2030s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Selection. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $80 abv: 13.9% Price: $50 Brick House 2018 Cuvée du Tonnelier Pinot 94 Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Sourced from the Bluebird Hill 2018 Mom’s Reserve Pinot Noir The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 Outcrop Pinot Noir estate’s original 1990 plantings, this sadly marks 93 (Willamette Valley). A lovely, bright wine, 93 (Dundee Hills). This site sits on thin, rocky, the final vintage for these phylloxera-affected vines, the fruit flavors focus on cranberry, pomegranate volcanic soils, bringing a mineral foundation to the which have now been removed and replanted. It’s a and raspberry. It’s stylish and fresh, with snappy, flavors. There’s a lightly funky, leathery note as well, sweet farewell, dense and aromatic with plum and acidity-boosted flavors and the structure to age. along with more elegant fruit flavors of tart rasp- black cherry fruit. The seashell highlights charac- Drink now for its youthful pizzazz, or cellar it berry and pie cherry. The acidity adds touches of teristic of the AVA can be sniffed out, along with another five or six years to amend the slightly bitter orange peel, and the overall impression is a well- a substrate of lightly bitter herb. This lovely wine tannins. —P.G. balanced, somewhat quirky wine with interesting should bring pleasure for many years to come. Edi- abv: 14.2% Price: $49 threads of fruit, rock and leather. —P.G. tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $50 abv: 13.3% Price: $48 Bluebird Hill 2018 Zenith Vineyard Reserve 93 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This is an The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 Roland Green Pinot Broadley 2018 Jessica Pinot Noir (Willa- aromatic wine with sweet spices and floral scents. 93 Noir (Dundee Hills). The ripest and most 94 mette Valley). This is smooth and rich, Sharp boysenberry fruit cuts across the palate. fruit-forward of the five single-vineyard Pinots already drinking well and likely to hold well for up There are streaks of clean earth and slightly bitter from Eyrie, this seems almost chunky by compari- to a decade. The flavors coat the palate with lush herbs, all well-integrated in terms of balance, but a son with the elegance of the others. That’s no criti- cherry fruit and accents of cherry cola and sassa- few more years of bottle age will help to smooth out cism, as right out of the bottle it’s the most acces- fras. All Wadenswil clone, half whole-cluster fer- any rough edges. —P.G. sible, with a solid core of cherry fruit and balancing mented, and aged over a year in 30% new French abv: 14.3% Price: $49 acidity. A mix of Wadenswil and Pommard clones oak, this doesn’t have the smoky darkness of the planted in 1988, the site is directly south-facing, companion release (Claudia’s Choice) but instead Brick House 2018 Les Djonnais Pinot Noir which may account for that extra burst of ripe fruit. shows the barrel influence with coconut flakes and 93 (Ribbon Ridge). Mixing five different Dijon Drink now through 2028. —P.G. light baking spices. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. clones (hence the name), this tightly wound young abv: 13.6% Price: $60 abv: 13.8% Price: $55 wine is wrapped in earthy, herbal scents and tex- tures. There’s a compact weave of red berry and Abbott Claim 2018 Abbott Claim Vineyard Dion 2018 Hang Time Pinot Noir (Chehalem pomegranate fruits, and further details from biody- 92 Orientate Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). 94 Mountains). This features fruit that was left namic farming, 30% whole-cluster fermentation, Native yeasts and mixed ferments in wood, concrete to hang an extra two weeks. It’s a risky proposition, native yeasts and aging in one-third new French and steel are hallmarks here. This tightly woven given unpredictable weather and ravenous birds, oak. It seems clear that a bit more bottle age will small-barrel selection opens with rhubarb, cran- but this time around the gamble has paid off big- reveal more of the depth and detail currently bound berry and strawberry leaves, then breathes into time. A lovely light color just hinting at sunset, this up in this wine. —P.G. pure cherry fruit with accents of chamomile tea. delicate, balanced wine is a classic compendium of abv: 13.3% Price: $54 It’s a wine you will surely want to decant to give it red fruits, cherry candy, citrus highlights, baking maximum opportunity to expand. —P.G. spices and beautifully managed tannins. It was aged Broadley 2018 Claudia’s Choice Pinot Noir abv: 13% Price: $115 for 14 months in half new French oak, and it’s har- 93 (Willamette Valley). This mix of Pommard monious, deeply penetrating and elegant to the end. and Wadenswil clones was fermented with wild Ayoub 2018 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir Editors’ Choice. —P.G. yeast, 40% whole clusters and aged in 30% new 92 (Dundee Hills). This young wine opens with abv: 14.2% Price: $45 French oak. It’s a complex, sophisticated wine, strong herbal scents and flavors. That slight bitter- powerfully built with black cherry fruit, whiffs of ness smooths out with a burst of vanilla. The flavors wood smoke and a streak of Dr Pepper. The tannins evolve in the glass into a mix of thistle, lovage, wild

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BUYINGGUIDE berry and sour cherry candy. It’s destined for a long decanting) with impressive details from biodynamic the mouth, with the floral details of wild yeasts, life and should be tucked away until 2025. —P.G. farming. Beetroot, dried herbs, spicy floral notes and suggestions of bread and toast. It’s well-bal- abv: 13.8% Price: $65 and even stem flavors are in the mix, but with none anced and should drink well through the rest of the of the bitterness that too often accompanies wines decade. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Ayoub 2018 Estate Whole Cluster Pinot Noir in which the fruit flavors are subdued. Raspberry abv: 12.8% Price: $45 92 (Dundee Hills). Whole-cluster fermentation punches through, along with pomegranate and a is the hallmark of this wine, which remains stub- hint of bay leaf. The wine is fermented with wild Abbott Claim 2018 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carl- bornly closed. Aggressive aeration and hours of time yeasts and aged 22 months in 15% new oak. —P.G. 91 ton). This is the first estate bottling from help considerably, bringing up tight layers of dried abv: 13% Price: $46 this acclaimed (pun intended) vineyard since new tea leaves, chamomile, fruit leather and an overrid- owner Antony Beck and his team took over. The ing minerality. This is a wine that clearly shows the Dion 2018 115 West Pinot Noir (Chehalem vineyard is being managed organically with some hand of the winemaker and the stamp of the soil. 92 Mountains). This is a single clone, single biodynamic practices. Wild yeasts are used for fer- Give it more bottle age and decant it prior to drink- block selection, replete with red fruits. It hints at mentation, which brings some unusual floral and ing. —P.G. the lighter side of ripeness, touching upon rhubarb textural components. The wine is lightly ripened, abv: 13.2% Price: $75 and tart cherry, along with a seam of orange marma- with cranberry, raspberry and mineral highlights. lade. It’s a tasty and complex effort, with a tongue- It was aged for about a year in one-third new oak. Ayoub 2018 Memoirs Pinot Noir (Willamette drying mineral-herbal finish. —P.G. —P.G. 92 Valley). The label honors Mo Ayoub’s late abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.3% Price: $65 brother, and the wine is done in classic Willamette Valley style. Crisp, precise and fresh, it’s replete Granville 2018 Louie Pinot Noir (Dundee Ayoub 2018 Anonimo Vineyard Pinot Noir with red berries, tart cherry and underlying miner- 92 Hills). Louie is the estate reserve bottling, 91 (Dundee Hills). This vineyard was planted ality. The acidity lifts the flavors as they sail into a sourced from the Holstein Vineyard. It’s a smooth, by Mo Ayoub in 2013, with nine Pinot Noir clones lingering finish with a hint of buttered toast. —P.G. seductive wine, sourced principally from the oldest mixed across five acres. It’s a juicy wine, with zesty abv: 13.8% Price: $45 vines in the vineyard. Plum jam and vanilla cream flavors of citrus and raspberries. The minerality flavors combine in a plush palate. There’s a mix of common to many Ayoub Pinots is evident here as Bluebird Hill 2018 Pinot Noir (Willamette mulberry and blueberry fruit also, and a lick of milk well, and with an astringent herbaceousness (20% 92 Valley). Replete with a lush mix of blue chocolate from aging in one-quarter new barrels. of the ferment was whole clusters). The mouthfeel and purple fruits, this supple and satisfying wine This is the sort of irresistible young Pinot that may is lively and the aging potential apparent. Drink pops with juicy acidity and ripe blueberries. A thin be at its best already. —P.G. 2022–2030. —P.G. thread of bitter herbs suggests that some whole abv: 14.3% Price: $90 abv: 13.8% Price: $55 clusters might be in the mix, but the overall balance and ripeness is spot-on. —P.G. Lichtenwalter 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Rib- Benza 2018 Three Tuxedos Pinot Noir (Che- abv: 14.2% Price: $32 92 bon Ridge). Wines from this estate, located 91 halem Mountains). The name honors the in a prime spot atop Ribbon Ridge, neatly capture owners’ three cats, also referenced by the bow-tie Brick House 2018 Halliday Hill Pinot Noir the essence of the AVA. Fresh cranberry and rasp- logo and notched label. This reserve is a deeper, 92 (Ribbon Ridge). This is the first time this berry fruit are accented with a mineral foundation. more robust companion to the winery’s regular vineyard designate has been offered. It’s from a There are scents and highlights of seashells, and 2018, with ripe raspberry and cherry fruit that have site right across the road from Brick House that is the flavors penetrate well into the lingering finish, a bit of a candy character. Aging in 40% new French farmed biodynamically by the Brick House team. It’s retaining excellent balance throughout. —P.G. oak brings touches of toast and cracker. —P.G. a sexy wine with sharp scents and flavors of berries, abv: 14.2% Price: $39 abv: 13.5% Price: $65 along with focused details of pepper, rosemary and thyme. Half was whole-cluster fermented, and one- Lichtenwalter 2018 Estate Reserve Pinot Cherry Hill 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity third of the cooperage was new. —P.G. 92 Noir (Ribbon Ridge). A two-barrel selection, 91 Hills). Supple, vivid raspberry fruit is on full abv: 13.3% Price: $45 one of which was all Pommard clone, this needs display and is juicy and bright. The wine was aged a bit more time to fully integrate itself. There are 18 months in French oak, though little or no toast Day 2018 Johan Vineyards Pinot Noir (Van excellent components of pomegranate fruit, seashell flavors are evident. Rather there are well-handled 92 Duzer Corridor). As with all of Brianne Day’s minerality and savory umami and fungus flavors. details of skin and stem, and fine balance through- wines this is detailed and well-balanced, a mix of The mouthfeel is a bit chalky and astringent, but out. —P.G. raspberry and cherry fruit with phenolic herbal further bottle age should smooth things out. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $40 flavors and textures. The complementary acidity abv: 14.2% Price: $59 brings a splash of orange juice, and the finish has Dion 2018 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). the slightest hint of leather. Drink now and over the Rex Hill 2017 Jacob-Hart Vineyard Pinot Noir 91 This estate-grown wine is packed with Pinot next five years. —P.G. 92 (Chehalem Mountains). Already in what power. Scents and flavors open with strawberry abv: 13.8% Price: $48 feels like its prime drinking window, this is display- leaves and Bing cherry fruit, backed by grippy tan- ing bountiful herbal phenolic flavors, and moving nins. The herbal side of the grape is much in evi- Day 2018 Momtazi Vineyard Pinot Noir the black fruits into the background. Shadows of dence, but balanced throughout. It spend just under 92 (McMinnville). Bright and full-bodied fruit earth, cola and dried herbs continue into a fading a year in 18% new French oak. —P.G. from this biodynamic site opens broadly across the finish. Enjoy it at its peak and drink over the next abv: 13.8% Price: $32 palate. Aged 22 months in French oak, just 12% two or three years. —P.G. new, it artfully mixes strawberry and raspberry abv: 13.8% Price: $75 Rex Hill 2017 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Moun- flavors with penetrating streaks of lemon pith and 91 tains). This cuvée is mostly a blend of fruit rind. The balance throughout is exceptional. —P.G. The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 Sisters Pinot Noir from the Jacob-Hart and Alloro vineyards. Tasted at abv: 14% Price: $56 92 (Dundee Hills). The five single-vineyard three years of age it has smoothed out, so what may selections from Eyrie are partially determined by have been somewhat bitter herbal highlights are Day 2017 Johan Vineyards Pinot Noir (Van elevation, Sisters being the lowest site. It’s a gentle softened and matched to fig and briary berry fruit. 92 Duzer Corridor). A bit austere when first wine, with flowery highlights and pretty strawberry opened, this rewards extra breathing time (or fruit. But it flexes its muscle and gains power in

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Barrel aging 11 months in one-third new French oak Abbey Road Farm 2018 Pinot Noir (Willa- it a good airing out, or another couple of years of adds a finishing streak of espresso. —P.G. 90 mette Valley). This aromatically inviting bottle age. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $45 wine is sourced from the RainSong and Carlton abv: 13.9% Price: $25 Hills Vineyards. Scents of plum, fig and cassis seem The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 Estate Pinot Noir to promise a rather hefty wine, but it lightens up in The Four Graces 2019 Pinot Noir (Willamette 91 (Dundee Hills). Eyrie now makes five sin- the mouth with a complex of fruit and spice flavors 89 Valley). This melds together fruit from mul- gle-vineyard Pinots, along with this estate blend. that call to mind Fig Newton cookies. In fact, it’s tiple Willamette Valley AVAs into a clean, aromatic There’s a pretty potent whiff of leather, and the pal- at a good point for near-term drinking right now, and gulpable style. Even at this young age the bri- ate carries a funky note that will please some pal- and should be enjoyed over the next three or four ary, peppery berry fruit is quite appealing, and the ates more than others. Other highlights of sassafras years. —P.G. wine has already settled into a comfortable groove. come around a core of classic Dundee Hills cherry abv: 13.9% Price: $37 It’s got a bit of stuffing also, and should be enjoyed fruit, but the palate seems a bit muted by the tack over the next half decade. —P.G. room notes. Drink this over the next couple of years. Benza 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Chehalem abv: 13.5% Price: $30 —P.G. 90 Mountains). This five-clone blend sports abv: 13% Price: $38 juicy raspberry fruit, with delicate hints of coco- Winter’s Hill 2018 Block 9 Pommard Pinot nut and vanilla from aging 10 months in 15% new 89 Noir (Dundee Hills). This tightens its flavor Trathen Hall 2017 Ana Vineyard Pinot Noir French oak. Just the second vintage from this new focus, being both a select block and a single clone. 91 (Dundee Hills). From an older vineyard estate, it’s a light, clean and quite lively wine that The strawberry fruit has an earthy note, with a light planted in the mid-1970s and since renamed, this is should show nicely over the next half decade. —P.G. hint of compost. The flavors expand broadly across an elegant wine with fresh raspberry and Satsuma abv: 13.5% Price: $50 the palate before heading down and through. The orange flavors. All neutral oak was used, though a finish turns bitter, with suggestions of hard rubber light suggestion of cocoa remains, to good effect. Brick House 2018 Select Pinot Noir (Ribbon and coffee grounds. —P.G. Enjoyable now, while it’s young and juicy, this 90 Ridge). This is the winery’s most affordable abv: 13.8% Price: $54 should continue to develop and even improve over Pinot Noir, and it’s a blend of barrels from all the the next six to eight years. —P.G. various estate-grown clones and vineyard blocks. Acrobat 2018 Pinot Noir (Oregon). One of abv: 13.8% Price: $45 It opens a bit rugged and tannic, with dominant 88 the most widely available Oregon Pinots, flavors of chewy herbs and grape skins. Decanting the Acrobat maintains its easy-drinking style while Trathen Hall 2017 Momtazi Vineyard Pinot helps, revealing tart mixed berries, and fine-tuning capturing the basic varietal character of the grape. 91 Noir (McMinnville). Half of the ferment was the overall balance. —P.G. Fruity berry flavors, moderate alcohol, balanced whole clusters, and the wine has astringent pheno- abv: 13.3% Price: $34 acidity and tamed tannins all bring this forward, lic flavors showing, with details of mint, tarragon, pleasant wine into focus. Drink over the next half sage and dried Mediterranean herbs. The fruit tilts Trathen Hall 2017 Pinot Noir (Willamette decade. —P.G. toward cranberry, with plenty of backing acidity. 90 Valley). Forward and fruity, this brings abv: 13.5% Price: $20 The wine was aged entirely in neutral oak. —P.G. raspberries and blackberries, supporting acidity abv: 13.5% Price: $45 and balanced tannins. Overall it’s fairly light but Duck Pond 2017 Front Yard Pinot Noir (Wil- complete and satisfying, with an underlying miner- 88 lamette Valley). This is a block selection, Wilkens Family 2018 Pinot Noir (Willamette ality. Some 40% of the ferment was whole clusters. with light fruit flavors of mixed red berries. The 91 Valley). This is the reserve label for Abbey —P.G. overall structure is balanced but lacks depth and Road Farm. It’s a two-barrel selection from the same abv: 13.8% Price: $28 complexity, with modest acidity and little impact sources as the regular Pinot Noir; one barrel was from barrel aging. Drink up. —P.G. new. Supple dark fruits, along with a slightly bitter Winter’s Hill 2018 Watershed Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $55 streak of barrel toast, give the cherry flavors a sort 90 (Dundee Hills). Estate-grown Dundee Hills of charred character. The wine is in good shape for Pinots are rare at this price. This palate-pleaser Duck Pond 2017 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willa- near-term drinking, with medium length and bal- brings red berries, light fresh herbs and a hint of 88 mette Valley). The raspberry fruit is fresh ance. Decanting first is recommended to soften the minerals into the mix. Partial whole cluster fermen- but falls on the thin side, without the sort of depth barrel impact. —P.G. tation adds texture and length. —P.G. and complexity that a reserve designation implies. abv: 11.6% Price: $70 abv: 13.7% Price: $25 All in all it’s a balanced, fruity, simple wine that should be enjoyed within the next year. —P.G. Winter’s Hill 2018 Block 10 Pinot Noir (Dundee A to Z 2017 The Essence of Oregon Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $28 91 Hills). A second all-Pommard clone offering 89 (Oregon). For full review see page 19. from the winery, this showcases a different vineyard abv: 13.8% Price: $25 Ransom 2015 Cattrall Vineyard Pinot Noir block. It’s an aromatic wine, redolent with roses and 88 (Eola-Amity Hills). This vineyard selec- raspberries. It’s tangy and tasty in the mouth, with Duck Pond 2019 Pinot Noir (Willamette tion shows slightly faded flavors of strawberry and fresh raspberry fruit buoyed with well-balanced 89 Valley). A fine value, this affordable Willa- cherry. The vines date back almost four decades and acidity. The underlying minerality expands and mette Valley Pinot is worth hunting for (break out bring delicate details of herb and stone into the mix. extends the finish. —P.G. that duck whistle!). Pretty cherry fruit takes hold Best to drink this over the next two years. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $54 quickly, with mild acidity and light tannins. It’s abv: 13.5% Price: $42 fruit-driven and pleasantly light, perfect for early Winter’s Hill 2017 Reserve Pinot Noir (Dundee drinking with roast fowl. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. The Great Oregon Wine Company 2018 Pinot 91 Hills). This eight-barrel selection handles abv: 13.5% Price: $19 88 Noir (Willamette Valley). This middle-of- the challenges of a lighter vintage well, delivering a the-road style brings light and fresh fruit flavors of balanced palate with red currants, raspberries and Territorial 2016 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- strawberry, raspberry and cherry fruit, with high- sweet spice. All components are well-integrated, 89 ley). Sourced from estate vineyards, this lights of sassafras. A finishing lick of coffee wraps and the lingering finish suggests aging potential wraps pretty cherry fruit in darker notes of smoke it up. —P.G. through the rest of the decade. —P.G. and espresso. Its 18 months in 20% new French oak abv: 13.6% Price: $30 abv: 13.1% Price: $65 is showing strongly now, along with just a hint of reduction expressed as a tinge of burnt rubber. Give

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The Great Oregon Wine Company 2018 Coles Troon 2018 Kubli Bench Syrah (Applegate The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 87 Valley Vineyard Pinot Noir (Umpqua Valley). 92 Valley). Classic varietal flavors come with 91 (Dundee Hills). Rarely bottled as a stand- There’s not much depth here, just light cherry and the extra intensity of biodynamic farming practices. alone varietal, this grape is generally perceived as cola flavors. A whiff of vanilla and hints of mocha The southern Oregon sunshine gives Syrah a real the sturdy relative of more elegant Pinot Noir. Here add some detail, and the wine does a quick fade, fin- boost throughout the region. It’s bursting with boy- it’s surprisingly light in color and flavor, with a ishing with slightly bitter tannins. —P.G. senberry jam, brightened with citrusy acidity, and strong component of tack room leather. The rasp- abv: 14.2% Price: $30 the flavors penetrate deeply down and through a berry fruit is bright and fresh, but the surrounding lingering, clean finish. —P.G. barnyard flavors tend to overtake it. Drink this over LifeVine 2019 Pinot Noir (Oregon). This is abv: 14.5% Price: $30 the next couple of years. —P.G. 86 certified pesticide free, which is not the abv: 12.2% Price: $45 same as organic. It’s a modest, astringent wine with Cowhorn 2016 Sentience Syrah (Applegate light flavors of black cherry and cola. A slightly 91 Valley). Varietally true, this proffers up the earthy streak runs through the finish. —P.G. classic blue and purple fruits and earthy tannins, WASHINGTON abv: 13.5% Price: $18 along with plenty of astringent herbal accents. Hints of umami, including dried seaweed, can be CHARDONNAY Ransom 2015 Selection Pinot Noir (Eola- sniffed and tasted along with prettier plummy fruit. 86 Amity Hills). This wine seems to be at or It finishes with ample, rather sticky tannins. —P.G. Valdemar 2018 DuBrul Vineyard Chardon- slightly past its prime. Cherry cola fruit has a faded abv: 14% Price: $55 94 nay (Yakima Valley). Winemaker Marie-Eve feeling, and the accents of leather and funk empha- Gilla has consistently made some of Washington’s size the sense that it should be consumed now. It Day 2017 A Peridot Afternoon Syrah (Yam- most delicious Chardonnay, and here at her new finishes with a dash of lemon oil. —P.G. 89 hill-Carlton). Sourced from the Deux Vert assignment working with some of the state’s best abv: 13.6% Price: $35 Vineyard, this includes 10% Viognier, presumably fruit, she takes it to another level. It’s all about sub- cofermented. It’s a delicate but deeply penetrating tlety, with aromas of apple, pear, spice and whiffs of Dough 2019 Pinot Noir (Oregon). The Ore- style, atypical for most Oregon . Light, tart pineapple. The palate is textured and flavorful, but 85 gon AVA may include fruit from anywhere red fruits, citrus and a hint of leather push down it’s the balance that captivates. Structure, balance, in the state. This is the first Pinot Noir from Dough, and through, maintaining a fine balance in an evoca- texture, acidity: This wine has it all—a true accom- and it’s a simple wine which feels generic rather tive, herbal finish. —P.G. plishment for this winemaker and for the state. Edi- than specific to any well-defined place. Very light abv: 13% Price: $34 tors’ Choice. —S.S. red berry fruit is balanced with clean acidity. Any abv: 13.8% Price: $50 barrel influence remains invisible. —P.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $22 OTHER RED WINES Saviah 2019 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Char- 91 donnay (Columbia Valley). This wine comes Ransom 2017 Jigsaw Pinot Noir (Willa- History 2017 The Pines Vineyard Zinfan- from the recently approved Royal Slope appellation, 85 mette Valley). Thin flavors of black cherry 92 del (Columbia Valley). Fruit for this wine and the aromas show pleasing subtlety, with notes have a sparkling soda-like mouthfeel, with none of comes from the oldest vines in the Pacific North- of pear, crayon and wet stone. The lightly creamy the depth of the grape. It’s refreshing, simple and west, planted in the late 1800s. Appealing aromas of stone fruit flavors are light on their feet, bringing utterly ephemeral. —P.G. raspberry, cranberry and baking spice are followed the bright acidity typical of the vintage. The bal- abv: 13% Price: $20 by a broad but sophisticated palate. It’s a tribute to ance impresses, and it lingers on the finish.Editors’ the variety. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Choice. —S.S. abv: 15% Price: $65 abv: 13.8% Price: $25 SYRAH History 2017 Windrow Vineyard Cabernet Sau- Gård 2018 Lawrence Vineyards Chardonnay Troon 2018 Whole Cluster Fermented Syrah 91 vignon (Walla Walla Valley). This side project 90 (Columbia Valley). The aromas offer notes 93 (Applegate Valley). This splendid reserve from the Oregon’s Stoller focuses on some of the of candlewax and crayon. There’s plenty of deftness encapsulates the many exciting changes at this pio- oldest vines in the Pacific Northwest, with this one to the lightly creamy flavors, keeping the interest neering winery. Though the founder is long gone, coming from the first commercial plantings in the high, with lovely balance to it all. —S.S. the name remains, and now stands for biodynamic, valley (1981). It leans into the variety’s savory side, abv: 13.7% Price: $28 soil-sensitive farming and innovative, cutting edge with aromas of fresh huckleberry, marionberry, winemaking. Deep layers of boysenberry and black- nori, dark soil and whiffs of whole green pepper. Mercer Bros. 2019 Chardonnay (Horse berry fruit, a lovely touch of whipped cream and The soft, supple flavors show sneaky intensity. It 89 Heaven Hills). Pear, apple and candlewax orange marmalade, and lingering streaks of clove hangs on the finish. The oak is pulled back, letting aromas lead to light but creamy feeling peach fla- and espresso are all in the mix in this focused, bal- the fruit shine. This is all about sophistication. Edi- vors. There’s a mouthwatering aspect to it that ups anced, delicious wine. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. tors’ Choice. —S.S. the interest. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $30 abv: 14.3% Price: $75 abv: 13.5% Price: $17

Cowhorn 2016 Reserve Syrah (Applegate Le Doubblé Troubblé 2019 Dry Hollow Vineyard Headturner 2018 Flyaway Chardonnay 92 Valley). Cowhorn’s reserves are given extra 91 Merlot (Columbia Valley). This is fascinat- 88 (Horse Heaven Hills). Panna cotta and bottle age before release—a good policy with wines ing—an Oregon side of the Columbia Valley Merlot vanilla make up the aromas and the flavors. A such as this dark, earthy and aromatic Syrah. Tart, in a Rhône-shaped bottle released extremely early creamy feel caps it off, along with a light medicinal chewy boysenberry and marionberry fruit is in with the oak pulled way back. Aromas of red plum, accent. It finishes warm. —S.S. play, along with chewy tannins and a broad streak muscat gummy and pomegranate lead to pleasantly abv: 14.4% Price: $25 of vanilla. This would best be tucked away another pure, textured, layered fruit flavors. It’s a radically few years or aggressively decanted prior to drink- different interpretation of this variety. Give it a bit ing. —P.G. of additional time in bottle or decant to see it at its GEWÜRZTRAMINER abv: 14% Price: $75 best. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $30 History 2016 Mont Elise Vineyard Gewürz- 92 traminer (Columbia Gorge). Fruit for this

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 wine comes from some of the oldest vines in the Callan 2019 Boushey Vineyards Grenache with ratatouille. Best after 2025 with a very long Columbia Gorge, planted in 1968. Generous aromas 90 Blanc (Yakima Valley). For full review see life beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.S. of Mandarin orange, flower, lychee and ginger lead page 16. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.2% Price: $95 to just off-dry drinking, exquisitely balanced fruit abv: 12.3% Price: $25 flavors that are light on their feet but bring inten- Woodward Canyon 2018 Old Vines Cabernet sity. It’s gorgeous, exhibiting the area’s acidity and Kerloo 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia 93 Sauvignon (Washington). Dark chocolate, mineral streaks. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 90 Valley). The aromas suggest notes of star barrel spice, vanilla, cherry and licorice aromas abv: 14.1% Price: $30 fruit, grass, tropical fruit and herb. Bright, light on are followed by luscious black fruit flavors. There’s their feet kiwi skin and pineapple rind flavors fol- plenty of richness, texture and seamlessness along Le Doubblé Troubblé 2019 Gewürztraminer low. It’s a very pretty, food-friendly offering. Pair it with a whole lot of structure. A long finish caps 89 (Columbia Gorge). Boom! The aromas with halibut with a pineapple-kiwi relish. —S.S. it off. It’s all about hedonism, but still possesses explode with notes of lychee, ginger and white flow- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 impressive balance, a classically Woodward styled ers, bringing vitality. The palate drinks dry and wine. The oak is forward at present. Give it some is light on its feet but with plenty of flavor, with Rocky Pond 2019 Double D Vineyard Semil- time in the cellar or decant. Best after 2024.Cellar mouthwatering acidity that brings it home. —S.S. 90 lon (Columbia Valley). Fruit for this wine Selection. —S.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $30 comes from the young Rocky Reach region south of abv: 14.7% Price: $99 Chelan. Reticent pear aromas lead to textured stone Rocky Pond 2019 Clos CheValle Vineyard fruit flavors. Lovely acidity stretches throughout. Be Human 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- 87 Gewürztraminer (Lake Chelan). The aromas —S.S. 91 bia Valley). For full review see page 13. Edi- are reserved for the variety, with notes of lychee and abv: 13.3% Price: $24 tors’ Choice. flower. Light floral flavors follow, with the concen- abv: 14.5% Price: $17 tration not always seeming there. —S.S. Rocky Pond 2019 Double D Vineyard Rous- abv: 13% Price: $24 89 sanne-Marsanne (Columbia Valley). Fruit Gård 2017 Winemaker’s Select Lawrence for this wine comes from the Rocky Reach grow- 91 Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia ing region. A 50-50 blend, the aromas are light but Valley). The aromas bring notes of raspberry com- OTHER WHITE WINES the palate is broad feeling and textured, leading to pote, coffee and spice. Plentiful cherry and black a warm finish. There are a lot of good things hap- licorice flavors follow, with the lightly grainy tan- Valdemar 2019 Component Trial 019-A Sage- pening. —S.S. nins giving a squeeze. Coffee notes linger on the fin- 93 moor Vineyards Roussanne (Columbia Val- abv: 14% Price: $24 ish. This one needs time to be fully appreciated but ley). This is a classic example of the variety, with has good stuffing. —S.S. notes of pear, white peach, toast and savory spice. Gård 2017 Grand Klasse Reserve Lawrence abv: 14.9% Price: $85 The palate is flavorful, broad and textured. The 88 Vineyards Roussanne (Columbia Valley). acidity balance is exquisite. It’s a standout. Editors’ The aromas bring notes of toast and char that are Goose Ridge 2018 g3 Estate Grown Family Choice. —S.S. quite prominent. Aromas of nut oil follow. The 91 Owned Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Val- abv: 13.6% Price: $40 flavors are sleek and savory, with pleasing acidity. ley). For full review see page 20. Editors’ Choice. There are good things happening if the oak inte- abv: 14.8% Price: $15 L’Ecole No. 41 2019 Semillon (Columbia Val- grates. —S.S. 92 ley). For full review see page 19. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 Headturner 2018 The Nerve Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 91 gnon (Red Mountain). For full review see page 14. Editors’ Choice. Callan 2019 Boushey Vineyards Picpoul ROSÉS abv: 14.8% Price: $25 91 (Yakima Valley). For full review see page 13. Editors’ Choice. Callan 2019 Rosé (Yakima Valley). Pale pink Rocky Pond 2017 Reserve Double D Vineyard abv: 11.7% Price: $25 88 with an orange tint, this wine is 70% Cin- 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). For sault and 30% Grenache. Aromas of strawberry and full review see page 15. Editors’ Choice. Saviah 2019 Estate Vineyard Viognier (Walla peach are followed by full feeling flavors that show abv: 14.7% Price: $59 91 Walla Valley). Very varietal aromas of rich some sweetness but with enough acidity to pull it peach, pear, spice and flower are followed by fuller- off. —S.S. 10,000 Hours 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon feeling but still restrained stone fruit flavors. The abv: 12.7% Price: $NA 90 (Red Mountain). This wine is still wound concrete egg fermenting shows, giving the wine up tightly right now, with notes of toasty oak, herb pleasing mineral accents. It brings intriguing acid- Huston 2019 Chicken Dinner Rosé (Washing- and dark fruit. Blackberry and black cherry flavors ity for the variety. A long finish keeps the interest 88 ton). Coming from an Idaho producer, this follow. The tannins are tightly wound. There’s a lot up. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. pale salmon wine with a gold tinge could be vari- of goodness to be had. Give it a decant. Editors’ abv: 13.4% Price: $30 etally labeled as Mourvèdre. The aromas bring notes Choice. —S.S. of apple and raspberry leading to tart, medium- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Calendar 2019 White Blend (Yakima Valley). bodied flavors. There’s a lot to like. —S.S. 90 Consisting mostly of , the abv: 13.2% Price: $19 Chasing Rain 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red aromas pop, with notes of Mandarin orange spritz, 90 Mountain). For full review see page 16. Edi- flower and honey. It delights by drinking just about tors’ Choice. bone-dry, remaining light on its feet, and bring- CABERNET SAUVIGNON abv: 14.5% Price: $25 ing structure rarely seen for the variety. Best Buy. —S.S. Gramercy 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Gård 2017 Lawrence Estate Wines Cabernet abv: 12.5% Price: $14 93 (Columbia Valley). Aromas of mocha, pierc- 90 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Roasted cof- ingly pure cherry, graphite and cedar box lead to a fee bean and dark chocolate aromas are upfront, textured, graceful palate. The style is very pulled with cherry behind. Lighter-styled vanilla and cof- back and is all about elegance and grace. It brings fee flavors follow, with a pleasing sense of texture a fine sense of acidity and tannin structure. Pair it and balance. It’s a restrained offering of the variety.

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The oak plays a prominent part in the show but the structure that this appellation brings. Time will captivating as is the exceptionally lengthy, flavorful plays it well. —S.S. tell if the aromas and palate sync up. —S.S. finish, kicking it up a notch. Gorgeous stuff. It wins abv: 14.1% Price: $40 abv: 15.33% Price: $24 on grace, balance and sneaky intensity rather than brawn. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Pambrun 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Pamplin 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- abv: 14.2% Price: $75 90 Walla Valley). The oak leads on the aromas 88 bia Valley). This is 100% varietal. The aro- initially, with notes of vanilla in front of cherry and mas are wound up tight, and the palate is grainy and Valdemar 2018 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). raspberry. The fruit flavors are bunched up right gritty right now. The concentration seems light, as 93 For full review see page 10. Editors’ Choice. now, extending over time. It’s a light, pretty offering with many wines from this vintage, but the acid- abv: 13.9% Price: $65 of this variety. —S.S. ity is impressive. Some time should bring it all abv: 14% Price: $70 together. Best after 2025. —S.S. Valdemar 2018 Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah abv: 14.3% Price: $50 93 (Walla Walla Valley). Rocks District wines The Soldier 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon are sometimes known for their brawn and outra- 90 (Columbia Valley). For full review see page Kennedy Shah 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon geousness. This example shows the area is plenty 18. 87 (Yakima Valley). The aromas bring notes of capable of making wines focused on grace and abv: 14.47% Price: $22 brown and green stem, dried leaves, hay and plum finesse, too. The aromas are brooding, with notes of followed by tart tobacco and hay flavors. The acidity moist earth, blue fruits, plum and orange rind. The Woodward Canyon 2018 Artist Series #27 of the vintage is primary. Put it on the dinner table palate is rich in flavor and silky soft in feel, loaded 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington). This to see it at its best. —S.S. with blue fruit flavors. The balance is exquisite and wine isn’t ready to reveal itself right now, with abv: 13.5% Price: $18 the length impressive. It’s a very pretty, classy offer- locked up aromas of chocolate, cocoa, cherry and ing from the area but with no shortage of hedonism. spice. Coffee and cherry flavors follow. Give it some Kennedy Shah 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sau- Editors’ Choice. —S.S. additional time in the cellar to blossom. —S.S. 87 vignon (Yakima Valley). Aromas of vanilla, abv: 14.3% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $59 garden fresh herb, tar, dried black currant and black cherry lead to a palate that paints around the edges. Gramercy 2017 John Lewis Syrah (Walla Gård 2016 Reserve Grand Klasse Lawrence There’s brightness to the acidity, with the tannins 92 Walla Valley). This wine is light in color for 89 Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia giving a light squeeze. —S.S. the variety and vintage. The aromas bring notes of Valley). The aromas offer notes of dark roasted cof- abv: 14.3% Price: $55 peat, dried stem and moist soil. The elegant, tex- fee bean, green pepper, dried herbs, orange rind and tured smoked meat flavors meanwhile are all about cherry. Sleek coffee and cherry flavors follow. Coffee Stemilt Creek 2017 Thomas Cycle Mathison grace and precision. A lingering finish follows. As notes linger on the finish. Like a number of wines 85 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- always with this producer, it’s a wine intended to be from this vintage, the fruit concentration is light, bia Valley). Braised green pepper and black cherry enjoyed with food. Pair it with grilled lamb chops. but what’s there is tasty. —S.S. aromas are followed by soft fruit flavors that bring a Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 sense of elegance. Dried orange rind notes linger on abv: NA Price: $87 the finish. The fruit seems quite underripe. —S.S. Mercer Bros. 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 15.8% Price: $28 Saviah 2018 The Funk Estate Syrah (Walla 89 (Horse Heaven Hills). Blueberry and plum 92 Walla Valley). This Syrah is cofermented aromas announce themselves. Ripe, plush flavors with 4% Viognier, and its aromas are bright, with follow. Herb notes linger on the finish. There’s a MERLOT notes of fresh orange zest, black olive, medicine, pleasing sense of balance throughout. It’s hard to smoked meat and firepit. Soft, plush, velvety flavors pin down as Cabernet, but who cares? —S.S. Chasing Rain 2018 Merlot (Red Mountain). follow. Orange rind notes linger on the finish. It has abv: 14.5% Price: $20 91 For full review see page 13. Editors’ Choice. a juicy feel that ups the interest. The Viognier plays abv: 14.5% Price: $25 a prominent role at present. —S.S. Bergevin Lane 2016 Moonspell Cabernet abv: 14.4% Price: $65 88 Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). With this Mercer 2017 Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). 100% varietal, aromas of gummy, cinnamon and 88 Brooding dark raspberry aromas lead to Maison Bleue 2018 Frontière Funk Vineyard cherry are followed by green pepper, vanilla and somewhat streamlined-seeming blueberry and 91 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). For full review see cherry flavors with a lightly grainy feel. Give a short plum flavors. The vintage’s acidity supports it all. page 15. decant. —S.S. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $75 abv: 14.6% Price: $35 abv: 14.1% Price: $25 Saviah 2018 The Stones Speak Estate Syrah Marion-Field 2016 Toby Tylor Cabernet Pambrun 2017 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). 91 (Walla Walla Valley). This wine is a clas- 88 Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). This wine 88 Aromas of red apple skin, cream, cherry sic expression of Rocks District fruit, with notes explores the variety’s greener, more savory side, cordial and raspberry gummy lead to center focused of green olive tapenade, chopped parsley, flower, with notes of stem, green and poblano peppers, fruit flavors. It wants more around the edges. —S.S. orange rind, soot and, of course, a whiff of funk. flower, cocoa and cherry. There’s plenty of density abv: 14% Price: $60 Broad, expansive medicine and olive flavors follow, to the flavors. It might be too green for some tastes, showing intensity and depth. —S.S. but there are good things happening. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $55 abv: 14.1% Price: $28 SYRAH Maison Bleue 2018 Gravière Stone Valley Old Tavern Farm 2018 Big Barn Cabernet Valdemar 2018 Blue Mountain Vineyard 90 Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Bright 88 Sauvignon (Red Mountain). This wine 94 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This is a flat-out aromas of berry, gummy and cherry along with doesn’t seem to have fully settled in initially, with beautiful expression of valley Syrah. The aromas whiffs of smoke are followed by fruit flavors that notes of asphalt, spice, cedar, cigar box and cherry draw you into the glass, with notes of blueberry, bring purity. The balance is lovely. —S.S. cordial. Full-bodied fruit flavors follow, with all of plum and herb. The palate brings weight and vol- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 ume but never gets bogged down, showing plenty of deftness and dexterity. The balance throughout is

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Maison Bleue 2018 Voyageur LeFore Vine- green pepper. Ripe black currant and raspberry fla- Rickshaw 2018 Red Blend (Washington). 90 yard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Coming vors follow, bringing layering and seamlessness. It 90 For full review see page 18. Editors’ Choice. from a Rocks District vineyard known for its quality sticks around for a long time on the raspberry- and abv: 14% Price: $16 but never the area’s signature funk, this producer’s cocoa-filled finish. It is absolutely delicious.Edi - fruit-forward style is on display. Fresh berry, orange tors’ Choice. —S.S. Saviah 2017 Big Sky Cuvée (Columbia Val- rind, flower and gummy bear aromas lead to elegant, abv: 14.4% Price: $34 90 ley). Merlot makes up half of this wine, pure fruit flavors. It’s a vivid display of this area and Cabernet Sauvignon a quarter, and the rest Cab- vineyard. —S.S. Matthews 2018 Reserve Cuvée (Columbia ernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The aromas abv: 14.4% Price: $50 93 Valley). This is the inaugural release of this intrigue, with notes of wet rock, cigar box, dark wine, with Merlot making up just under three-quar- chocolate and cherry. The flavors bring pleasing Saviah 2018 Reserve Syrah (Walla Walla Val- ters and the rest Cabernet Franc (16%), Cabernet restraint but also plushness—a winning combina- 90 ley). The aromas are reserved, with notes Sauvignon (8%) and Petit Verdot (2%). Still set- tion. Medicinal notes linger on the finish. —S.S. of green olive, cigar box, medicine and firepit. Sleek tling in, baking spice aromas are out front, followed abv: 14.5% Price: $40 plum and savory flavors follow. It’s pleasing, but all by notes of cinnamon and raspberry. Fruit and bar- seems quite pulled back. —S.S. rel intertwine on the palate. It needs time, but the Be Human 2018 Red Blend (Columbia Val- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 stuffing is all there. Best after 2024. —S.S. 89 ley). This vintage offers a bounty of fruit, abv: 14.6% Price: $85 and this wine is a great example of it. Aromas of Saviah 2018 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The light toasty oak meld with plum, leading to boun- 89 aromas draw you into the glass, with notes 10,000 Hours 2018 Red Blend (Red Moun- tiful black currant and raspberry flavors. There’s of ember, funk, plum and coffee. With fruit coming 92 tain). For full review see page 10. Editors’ pleasing balance throughout. —S.S. from Watermill, Funk, Lewis and Anna Marie vine- Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 yards, the palate is more elegantly styled but still abv: 14.5% Price: $35 flavorful. It’s a very pulled back, pretty expression Chasing Rain 2018 Red Blend (Red Moun- of the variety. —S.S. History 2017 Red Blend (Columbia Valley). 88 tain). Aromas of chocolate and cherry lead abv: 14.5% Price: $32 92 Coming from some of the oldest vines in the to soft fruit flavors. There’s a lot of structure sur- Pacific Northwest, this wine is 71% Cabernet Sauvi- rounding them, upping the interest. Decant if drink- Saviah 2017 Lewis Vineyard Syrah (Yakima gnon, 20% Malbec and 9% Merlot. The aromas are ing in the near term. —S.S. 89 Valley). Firepit and Kalamata olive aromas pulled back, with notes of plum, dried leaves, cherry abv: 14.5% Price: $25 are followed by pillowy soft smoke and medicine fla- and whiffs of tar. The flavors are plump, joyful and vors. It brings plenty of goodness, but the medicinal well-balanced, with an emphasis on purity. It’s a Elevation Cellars 2013 Monolith (Columbia notes distract. —S.S. testament to old vine fruit—and all about sophisti- 88 Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 70% abv: 14.7% Price: $50 cation. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. of this wine, with the rest Merlot (14%) and near abv: 14.3% Price: $40 equal parts Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mercer 2017 Reserve Syrah (Horse Heaven Malbec. The aromas bring notes of dried herbs, cel- 88 Hills). Aromas of forest floor, brown stem, Rocky Pond 2017 La Domestique Reserve ery salt and dried cherry. Tire rubber and cherry fla- red apple and flower are followed by light, grace- 92 Double D Vineyard (Columbia Valley). For vors follow, with the tannins showing some astrin- ful fruit flavors. It’s part intrigue, part delivery, full review see page 11. Cellar Selection. gency. —S.S. with good things happening, but the concentration abv: 14.4% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $41 seems light. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $42 Grounded Wine Co. 2018 Collusion (Columbia Gård 2017 The Don Lawrence Estate Wines 91 Valley). The aromas bring notes of caramel, 88 (Columbia Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon Stemilt Creek NV Boss Lady Adelaide AJ plum, tobacco and cherry. The luscious, plump, makes up a little more than three-quarters of this 88 Mathison Estate Grown Syrah (Columbia Val- juicy fruit flavors have more than enough acid- wine, with the rest Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Mer- ley). The aromas offer notes of cocoa, sweet barrel ity and tannin structure to hold them up. Editors’ lot and Malbec. The aromas offer notes of cherry, spice and red fruit. The palate is light but flavorful, Choice. —S.S. tobacco and mesquite, not seeming entirely settled. tapering toward the blue fruit-filled finish. There’s abv: 14.1% Price: $23 The flavors are pulled back, surrounded by bright less concentration than the listed abv would sug- acidity and smoky flavors. —S.S. gest. —S.S. Saviah 2018 Une Vallée Red Wine (Walla Walla abv: 14.1% Price: $24 abv: 15.8% Price: $28 91 Valley). This is 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc. With fruit Stemilt Creek NV Earthen (Columbia Valley). Claar 2018 White Bluffs Vineyard Estate coming from McClellan, Pepper Bridge, Anna Marie 88 Cocoa, green pepper and baking spice aro- 87 Grown & Bottled Syrah (Columbia Valley). and Eritage vineyards, the aromas bring notes of mas are followed by broad, seamless flavors of green Light aromas of plum and wood spice are followed plum, blue fruit, earth, dried and fresh herbs and pepper, cherry and a bit of smoke. Pleasing acidity by somewhat lighter-styled black pepper and plum flowers. Soft, lighter-styled coffee, cherry and choc- enlivens it. —S.S. flavors. The concentration seems a bit light at olate flavors follow. It’s all about grace. —S.S. abv: 15% Price: $15 times, but what’s there pleases. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $40 abv: 14.4% Price: $30 Elevation Cellars 2013 Jammin’ Red Blend Pambrun 2017 Chrysologue (Walla Walla 87 (Columbia Valley). This wine is 68% Cab- 90 Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon makes up ernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, RED BLENDS three-quarters of this wine, with the rest Merlot 5% Cabernet Franc and 4% Malbec. The aromas (17%) and Cabernet Franc. Reductive aromas domi- bring notes of fresh garden herbs, hay, cocoa, cherry Matthews 2018 Cuvée (Columbia Valley). nate initially, with notes of asphalt and wet tar fol- and dark chocolate. Despite the age, the palate is 93 This is a new offering from this long-time lowed by plum, blue fruits and berries. The palate bunched up and short. It brings surprising acidity winery, a blend of 60% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sau- shows flashy fruit flavors and acidity of the vintage. given the warmth of the vintage. —S.S. vignon and 19% Cabernet Franc. The aromas take Time should bring it all together. The stuffing is abv: 14.5% Price: $25 some time to get going, with notes of cocoa powder, there. —S.S. barrel spice, dark chocolate, cherry and whiffs of abv: 14% Price: $65

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Mercer Bros. 2018 Edge of Heaven (Horse Stemilt Creek 2017 Successive Generations by tart pomegranate on the palate. It finishes spicy 87 Heaven Hills). Plum, medicine and asphalt 86 Estate Grown Cabernet Franc (Columbia Val- with prickling tannins hugging the tongue. —F.A. aromas are followed by plump, fleshy blue fruit, ley). The aromas offer notes of dried tobacco, dried abv: 13.5% Price: $39 green herb and smoke flavors that paint around the orange rind, cherry and barrel spice. Creamy-feel- edges. The medicinal notes provide some distrac- ing, lightly smoky flavors follow. It all seems a bit The Williamsburg Winery 2018 John Arundell tion. —S.S. dried out. —S.S. 85 Cabernet Sauvignon (Virginia). This opens abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 15.4% Price: $30 with intense notes of overripe berry on the nose. The palate is pure cotton candy and blue raspberry Next 2017 Red Blend (Columbia Valley). Aro- hard candy carrying through the finish where it’s 85 mas of smoke and Vicks VapoRub lead to IDAHO met by a hint of vanilla. —F.A. flavors that are plump around the edges and lighter abv: 14.3% Price: $14 in the middle. —S.S. WHITE WINE abv: 13.74% Price: $13 Vint Hill 2017 Covert Wineworks Bombshell Huston 2019 Chicken Dinner White Wine 84 Cabernet Sauvignon (Virginia). Aromas of 90 (Snake River Valley). For full review see black currant and blackberry lead to raspberry and OTHER RED WINES page 17. Editors’ Choice. herbs on the palate. Bright acidity keeps this pleas- abv: 13.6% Price: $16 ant enough and easily sippable. —F.A. Woodward Canyon 2018 Estate Barbera abv: 13.5% Price: $29 92 (Walla Walla Valley). This variety is an extreme rarity in the state let alone in the valley, RED WINES though this producer has been making it for more CABERNET FRANC than 20 years. The fruit-forward notes of cherry, Huston 2018 Malbec (Snake River Valley). dark raspberry and bramble capture the attention. 88 Asphalt aromas are at the fore and eventu- The Williamsburg Winery 2017 Trianion Bright, tart, acidity-driven flavors deliver. It’s thor- ally give way to green pepper, orange essence, exotic 89 Cabernet Franc (Virginia). Fresh cranberry, oughly delightful. Pizza anyone? Editors’ Choice. spice and loose gravel. Reserved, bunched up fruit raspberry and just picked violet blend together on —S.S. flavors follow. The tannins give a grip, and the acid- the nose. The palate combines cranberry and goji abv: 14.8% Price: $32 ity is bright. It’s not clear where it’s all going. —S.S. with black tea and leather. A persistent banana abv: 14.3% Price: $32 pepper note tangos with the tannins. This is a high Saviah 2017 Tempranillo (Walla Walla Val- energy Cab Franc with streamlined acidity. —F.A. 90 ley). Fruit for this wine comes from Funk, Huston 2019 Chicken Dinner Red (Idaho). abv: 12.5% Price: $40 Dugger Creek and Watermill Estate vineyards. The 87 Fruit-forward aromas of plum, huckleberry aromas bring notes of funk, roasted coffee bean, and dried herbs lead to tart, center-focused green Narmada 2016 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Vir- fresh and dried tobacco and ember. A savory, grace- pepper and cherry flavors with some tart acidity 88 ginia). The nose delivers cedar and muddled ful, dried tobacco-filled palate follows. It’s equal behind them. There are good things happening, but raspberry with a subtle hint of rubber. The palate parts intrigue and delivery. —S.S. it comes off as a bit green. —S.S. is rich in Virginia tobacco and cedar with a blend abv: 14.5% Price: $38 abv: 14.3% Price: $18 of black cherry and pomegranate fruit flavors. The tannins are dry and supportive, balanced by ample Mercer 2017 Malbec (Horse Heaven Hills). acidity. —F.A. 89 The aromas are reserved, with notes of VIRGINIA abv: 13.4% Price: $38 plum and dried herbs. Plump but still light, appeal- ing fruit flavors follow, dipping in the middle. Pleas- CABERNET SAUVIGNON Horton 2016 Cabernet Franc (Virginia). The ingly bright acidity accent it. —S.S. 83 aroma offers notes of cranberry and cherry abv: 14.8% Price: $25 Keswick Vineyards 2016 Estate Reserve while the palate delivers balsamic soaked raspberry 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Monticello). Boysen- and cherry with sharp acidity. —F.A. Mercer 2016 Petit Verdot (Horse Heaven berry and black currant are savory on the nose with abv: 13% Price: $18 89 Hills). The aromas offer notes of garden subtle aromas of tea and white pepper. It’s bright herbs, blue fruit, crushed plum, orange, flowers and upfront on the palate with blackberry and crunchy vanilla, with the vanilla and plum flavors being bal- cranberry flavors. There’s plenty of tart acidity, and RED BLENDS ance and polish. The variety’s acidity keeps it all in the midpalate slides into green tobacco leaves and focus, though the oak gets a bit out front. —S.S. oak tones before diving into a spicy and peppery fin- Rosemont 2017 Kilravock Signature Red abv: 13.9% Price: $32 ish developing more vanilla and black plum flavors. 90 (Virginia). Raspberry and cranberry aromas —F.A. take on a floral edge on the nose. The palate echoes Palencia 2016 El Viñador Petit Verdot (Wah- abv: 14% Price: $75 and amps up those notes, adding vanilla and tin- 88 luke Slope). The aromas are bright, with gling spice. The tannins are firmly structured and notes of raspberry, cranberry and green herbs. The Casanel 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon the acidity is perfectly balanced, adding just enough palate brings a whole lot of acidity and tannin. A 87 (Middleburg). Aromas of blackberry and verve with a long lingering finish. —F.A. warm, chocolate-filled finish caps it off. —S.S. plum are inviting on the nose. The palate displays abv: 14% Price: $35 abv: 14.9% Price: $50 juicy notes of cranberry and more blackberry. Tan- nins are gritty but balanced well by bouncy acidity Lovingston 2017 Josie’s Knoll Rotunda Red Elevation Cellars 2016 Black Peak StoneTree leading to a long peppery finish laced with rasp- 89 (Monticello). Cherry aromas ride notes of 87 Vineyard Tempranillo (Wahluke Slope). Aro- berry. —F.A. new leather and cedar planks. Bouncy and crisp mas of vanilla, baking spice, wood and cherry lead abv: 13% Price: $38 acidity brighten cherry and wild raspberry flavors, to vanilla-laden, creamy-feeling flavors backed by and tannins are supportive, carrying leather, cedar astringent tannins. The oak gets far out in front of Pearmund 2016 Silver Creek Vineyard Cab- and tobacco flavors through the finish. —F.A. the fruit. —S.S. 86 ernet Sauvignon (Virginia). The nose com- abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: 14.9% Price: $38 bines peppercorn, red plum and cherry notes. The wine is full of leather and tobacco flavors sharpened

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Revalation 2017 Village (Virginia). Aromas Horton 2017 (Virginia). Cranberry, the crisp orchard fruit flavors, making this a clean, 88 of black plum, blackberry and leather com- 88 cherry and raspberry aromas show just a affable wine that many will enjoy. —A.P. bine to form the nose. The palate mirrors the nose, whiff of red meat and rubber. The palate opens with abv: 12.6% Price: $16 adding tobacco and black pepper notes with firm ripe fruit but sprints toward raw tobacco and oak dusty tannins forming the structure. —F.A. tones that overwhelm toward the finish that hits Hound’s Tree 2017 Chardonnay (North Fork abv: 13% Price: $31 with a kick of spice. The tannins are dry, and the 90 of Long Island). Aromas of blossomy white acidity is balanced. Very enjoyable, this shows off flowers, crushed salt and lime peel carry the driven Pearmund NV Black Ops (Virginia). Cassis the potential of Pinotage in the state. —F.A. nose. There’s a gentle creaminess to the medium- 87 and black cherry meld with leather on the abv: 12% Price: $20 bodied palate, with savory elements of blanched nose. The palate is loaded with plum and cranberry almond and salt leading over gently seared lemon. with bright acidity. Tannins are gentle leading into Narmada 2017 Tannat (Virginia). Fresh It ends nutty yet lifted. —A.P. a spicy finish with rich oak tones. —F.A. 88 tobacco wraps around cranberry on the abv: 13.4% Price: $26 abv: NA Price: $39 nose. Leather and cedar take the lead on the pal- ate, punctuated by pomegranate and raspberry. The Hound’s Tree 2017 Highwire Chardonnay Veramar 2018 JB Terracotta (Virginia). Cran- tannins are dry and build steam toward the finish 90 (North Fork of Long Island). Zesty aromas 86 berry and apple peel form the nose. The pal- with gentle yet balanced acidity and a peppery note of lemon and lime peels ride over delicate creamy ate offers tart acidity, red apple and red plum that at the end. —F.A. yeast in this unoaked Chardonnay. There’s a gentle are juicy upfront but lead to slightly unruly tannins abv: 14.5% Price: $38 creaminess to the medium-bodied palate, filled out and rubber on the finish. —F.A. by juicy flavors of yellow apple and pear. A mild abv: 13.8% Price: $30 Gray Ghost 2017 Petit Verdot (Virginia). salty accent gives some pleasing depth to an other- 85 Weathered oak and stale peppercorns form wise brisk expression. —A.P. James River 2015 Monitor VS. CSS Virginia most of the aroma. Flavors of fresh black pepper and abv: 11.8% Price: $18 84 (Virginia). Black cherry aromas are reminis- cherry introduce the palate. The tannins are drying cent of cough syrup. The palate delivers black plum and dampen the charm of the acidity and fresh fruit One Woman 2017 Estate Reserve Chardon- tied to tangy acidity, with notes of cedar and leather flavors. The finish is all cigar wrapper and tingling 90 nay (North Fork of Long Island). Aromas along with dusty tannin. —F.A. pepper. —F.A. of brûléed lemon, fresh citrus peels and sea spray abv: NA Price: $24 abv: 13.9% Price: $35 are energetic and lifted on the nose of this barrel- aged Chardonnay. There’s a silky richness to the medium-bodied palate, yet it’s driven by a taut OTHER RED WINES NEW YORK line of acidity that extends to the finish. A delicate frame of toasty spice accents the crisp fruit, making Early Mountain 2017 Quaker Run Vineyards CHARDONNAY this a well-balanced offering. —A.P. 90 Tannat (Virginia). For full review see page abv: 12.8% Price: $42 17. Jamesport 2018 Saddleback Chardonnay abv: 15.3% Price: $45 91 (North Fork of Long Island). A rich nose of sea Fox Run 2019 Doyle Family Chardonnay spray, citrus cream, blanched almond, chamomile 89 (Seneca Lake). For full review see page 21. Keswick Vineyards 2017 Estate Reserve and yellow plum starts off this delightful Chardon- Best Buy. 90 Touriga (Monticello). Aromas of blueberry nay. The medium-bodied palate is silken in feel yet abv: 12.9% Price: $13 and wild raspberry introduce this utterly delightful drawn out by a taut line of acidity. Flavors of lemon wine and are joined by notes of crushed herbs. The peel, white blossoms and lemongrass are lifted and Living Roots 2018 Orchards of Seneca Char- palate is slick, loaded with crushed granite plus for- pure, with a delicate white tea note extending on 89 donnay (Finger Lakes). Delicate aromas of aged raspberry and blackberry. The acidity vibrates the textured finish. —A.P. lemon peel and pineapple open up as this wine sits like cold steel while tannins play the strong but abv: 13.5% Price: $27 in the glass. There’s admirable breadth and juiciness quiet type. It finishes with dried and candied violet to the fruit on the palate, with a gentle creaminess and tart cranberry. —F.A. Trestle Thirty One 2017 Chardonnay (Finger undercut by lifted acidity and a dash of crushed salt. abv: 15% Price: $35 91 Lakes). Ripe lemon and yellow plum aromas Overall, it shows nice energy and lift, ending with are dotted with accents of sea spray, citrus cream citrus and warm spice accents. —A.P. The Williamsburg Winery 2017 Limited and white blossoms in this Chardonnay, of which abv: 12% Price: $22 89 Release Norton (Virginia). A fascinating about a third sees time in French oak. The palate is nose of rooibos tea creates instant intrigue joined creamy and concentrated in juicy yellow fruit, with Millbrook 2018 Proprietor’s Special Reserve by subtle aromas of rose hip and goji berry. The pal- ample lift from bright acidity and a seared lemon 89 Chardonnay (New York). Rich aromas ate is juicy, offering up cranberry, more goji berry, note that lingers on the close. —A.P. of chamomile, peach and pineapple carry to the dried apple slices and baking spice. Tea tannins are abv: 13% Price: $32 weighty, unctuous palate. For all that weight, there’s cohesive and well structured, while plenty of tart a taut texture and bright acidity to lift it all up, mak- acidity keeps it bouncy and lively through the fin- Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Chardonnay (Fin- ing this a well-balanced, creamy white. —A.P. ish. —F.A. 90 ger Lakes). For full review see page 20. Best abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 12% Price: $36 Buy. abv: 13% Price: $15 Pellegrini Vineyards 2016 Vintner’s Pride Casanel 2016 Estate Carmenère (Middle- 89 Estate Grown Unfiltered Chardonnay (North 88 burg). Black fruits blend with green and Hosmer 2018 Chardonnay (Cayuga Lake). A Fork of Long Island). There’s depth and richness to black pepper aromas on the nose. Savory and tart 90 surprising result from such a difficult vin- this barrel-fermented and barrel-aged Chardonnay. on the palate, the acidity is angular, bolstering the tage, this white offers bright aromas of peach and Luscious yellow plum, lemon and melon flavors are cranberry and cherry flavors. The tannins are dry yellow apple that are shot through with a blossomy wrapped in a toasty, warm spice embrace. —A.P. and well mannered, much like the tobacco and white flower accent. A small portion of this wine abv: 13.5% Price: $30 leather tones leading to the red apple and peppery saw time in barrel, yielding a gentle roundness to spice finish. —F.A. the medium-bodied palate. There’s ample lift to Anthony Road 2018 Unoaked Chardonnay abv: 12.5% Price: $60 88 (Finger Lakes). Mildly coiled aromas of

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BUYINGGUIDE lemon-lime and pear carry the nose. This is light in lemon peel, crushed stone and pear carry the nose. Bedell 2018 Chardonnay (North Fork of Long feel, with streamlined citrus and apple flavors filled There’s a gentle creamy, yeasty note on the medium- 86 Island). A streamlined nose of lemon, pine- out by a gently creamy yeast note. It ends lifted and bodied palate, lifted by juicy flavors of yellow apple apple and steel starts off this zesty white. It’s light bright on a burst of citrus. —A.P. and lemon. A final burst of citrus-laden acidity and crisp on the palate, with demure peach and abv: 12.2% Price: $16 lends brightness to the close. —A.P. pineapple flavors that end with a creamy, yeasty abv: 13% Price: $18 vibe. —A.P. Bright Leaf 2018 Reserve Chardonnay (Fin- abv: 11.5% Price: $30 88 ger Lakes). A mild nose of butterscotch, Pellegrini Vineyards 2017 Estate Grown Char- lemon and crushed salt carries the nose of this 87 donnay (North Fork of Long Island). Charred Bright Leaf 2018 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Chardonnay. Seeing time in both stainless steel citrus and toasted hazelnut carry the nose. The 86 A faint nose shows just hints of pear and and oak, the wine has a creaminess on the palate medium-bodied palate is linear and focused, with crushed stone. The palate is rounded in feel yet light as well as some toasty spice. The citrus fruit takes brisk lemon and seared yellow plum flavors ending on its feet, displaying delicate citrus and orchard on a brûléed character, ending taut and lifted. —A.P. with a flurry of toasty spice. —A.P. fruit flavors. It ends savory and yeasty, but with abv: 13.2% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $20 enough lift from bright acidity to bring balance. —A.P. Jamesport 2019 76 Chardonnay (North Fork Pindar Vineyards 2019 Sunflower Special abv: 13.2% Price: $16 88 of Long Island). Quiet aromas of banana and 87 Reserve Chardonnay (North Fork of Long melon meld with a gentle butter cookie accent on Island). Perfumed aromas of jasmine and peach Heron Hill 2019 Unoaked Chardonnay (Fin- the nose. There’s ample juiciness to the light-bodied­ carry the nose. The delicate palate shows more of 86 ger Lakes). The nose shows a perfumed jas- palate, with tart lemon and apple flavors framed by the same, with a slightly soapy floral tone arising mine element mixed with apple and pear. There’s quiet, savory accents. —A.P. on the midpalate. Lemony acidity arises toward the punch and gusto to the juicy yellow apple and lemon abv: 12% Price: $37 finish to cinch things up. —A.P. flavors on the medium-bodied palate, but it ends abv: 12.6% Price: $22 short. —A.P. Lamoreaux Landing 2019 Reserve Estate abv: 12.9% Price: $14 88 Bottled Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). A RGNY 2018 Scielo NY Chardonnay (North slightly brûléed lemon note melds with fresh melon 87 Fork of Long Island). A tiny portion (2%) of Pellegrini Vineyards 2019 Stainless Steel and sea spray in this Chardonnay. There’s pleasing this wine was aged in French oak and 20% went 86 Estate Grown Chardonnay (North Fork of creaminess to the palate, with lifted acidity pushing through malolactic fermentation, yielding a white Long Island). Bright, zesty aromas of lemon and it along. —A.P. that blends both creamy and fresh elements. But- lime peels meld with a bit of creamy pear on the abv: 13.1% Price: $20 terscotch, lemon peel and pear are carried along nose. The medium-bodied palate is soft in feel, with by bright acidity and supported on a gently creamy mellow orchard fruit flavors lifted by gentle acidity. Lamoreaux Landing 2018 Reserve Estate frame. —A.P. —A.P. 88 Bottled Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Aro- abv: 12.4% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $20 mas of lemon and pear meld with a slightly brûléed lemon tone, which adds richness and depth to the Wagner 2019 Unoaked Estate Bottled Char- Stony Lonesome 2018 Unoaked Chardonnay nose. There’s a subtle creaminess to the delicate 87 donnay (Finger Lakes). Aromas of banana, 86 (Finger Lakes). Perfumed aromas of apple, palate, with pear, apple and citrus flavors pushed guava and pear carry the fruit-laden nose. It’s light pear and lemon drive the nose and palate, with a along by balanced acidity. —A.P. in feel on the palate, with flavors of mixed tropical gentle creaminess filling it out. It’s a bit low in verve abv: 12.9% Price: $20 fruit lifted by bright enough acidity. It’s enjoyable on the clipped finish. —A.P. for its straightforward, easy nature. —A.P. abv: 11.6% Price: $15 Lenz 2015 Old Vines Chardonnay (North abv: 12.5% Price: $13 88 Fork of Long Island). Billowing aromas of Wagner 2019 Reserve Estate Bottled Char- pineapple, melon and peach carry the nose of this Wagner 2018 Reserve Estate Bottled Char- 86 donnay (Finger Lakes). A delicate nose Chardonnay. It’s rich and fruity on the palate, with a 87 donnay (Finger Lakes). Quiet aromas of but- of coconut and banana shows in this Chardonnay gentle creaminess that is immediately pushed aside terscotch and pear carry the nose. It’s rather light in that has seen some time in older American oak. It’s by racing acidity. —A.P. feel, with lifted lemon and apple flavors wrapped in light on its feet, with easy melon and citrus flavors abv: 13% Price: $30 a slightly toasty sheen. It’s balanced well by bright decently balanced by bright acidity. —A.P. acidity, ending savory and creamy. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Wölffer 2018 Perle Chardonnay (The Hamp- abv: 12.1% Price: $18 88 tons, Long Island). Aromas of blanched Point of the Bluff 2018 Chardonnay (Finger almond, yellow plum and crushed salt are rich on Wölffer 2019 Chardonnay (Long Island). 85 Lakes). Rich aromas of lemon furniture pol- the nose. The wine’s creamy and rounded in feel 87 This rich yet balanced Chardonnay displays ish and preserved lemons carry the nose and palate. on the palate, driven by a juicy yellow fruit that’s creamy melon and pear flavors balanced by lifted It shows an astringent, drying feel that’s decently dotted with savory, salty elements. For all its plush- citrus. It’s straightforward in its appeal, but is a held in check by some nice creaminess. —A.P. ness, it has bright acidity in equal measure. —A.P. composed, complete package that will please many. abv: 11.5% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 —A.P. abv: 13.2% Price: $18 Harbes 2019 Steel Chardonnay (North Fork Buttonwood Grove 2017 Chardonnay (Finger 83 of Long Island). Muddled aromas of citrus 87 Lakes). Coconut and lemon curd aromas are Atwater 2017 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). and candied apple carry a yeasty funk on the nose. at the fore in this oaked Chardonnay, which has a 86 Aromas of yellow plum and lemon carry a The palate is light in feel, with a slight lemon tone juicy pineapple note at the core. It’s creamy in feel slightly toasty edge on the nose. The medium-bod- shining through a blanket of savory accents. —A.P. yet lifted by bright acidity, with a sheen of oaky ied palate is rounded in feel, lifted by bright shots abv: 12.7% Price: $22 spice riding over the lusciously fruity core. —A.P. of lemony acidity. It ends creamy and savory, with a abv: 12% Price: $30 mild toasty grip. —A.P. Stony Lonesome 2018 Barrel Fermented abv: 13.1% Price: $18 83 Reserve Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Not Heron Hill 2018 Ingle Vineyard Unoaked a lot of fruit emerges on the nose, with a struck 87 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Lifted aromas of match aroma that holds court. It shows some gentle

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 creaminess on the palate, with bright enough acid- Pindar Vineyards 2019 Sauvignon Blanc waxy. Bright acidity shines through, with a gentle ity to lend balance, but candied flowers and savory 88 (North Fork of Long Island). Pear, melon creaminess lingering on the close. —A.P. yeast tones are the dominate flavors. —A.P. and lemon peels are lifted and pure on the nose and abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 11.4% Price: $25 carry to the juicy, light-bodied palate. Spritzy acid- ity lends ample lift, with the fruit lingering nicely on Bedell 2019 Pinot Gris (North Fork of Long the finish. —A.P. 90 Island). From young vines planted in 2016, SAUVIGNON BLANC abv: 12.5% Price: $19 this wine is a triumph. Bright, zesty aromas of yel- low apple, Meyer lemon and honeysuckle are con- Hector Wine Company 2019 Sauvignon Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2019 Sauvignon Blanc centrated and lifted on the nose. There’s a gentle 90 Blanc (Seneca Lake). Playful aromas of 87 (Finger Lakes). Straightforward aromas roundness to the light-bodied palate, with juicy, passion fruit, guava and gooseberry meld with a of pear, pineapple and gooseberries carry to the plush apple and lemon flavors that don’t falter from crushed stone element on the nose. There’s nice medium-bodied palate. There’s real weight and heft start to finish. A bit of pithy waxiness lends some ampleness to the medium-bodied palate, with a to the fruit, with just enough acidity to tie it up. grip to an otherwise delightfully fruity wine. —A.P. taut line of acidity holding all the fruit in check. —A.P. abv: 11.5% Price: $25 A gentle pithiness cinches it up, lending good tex- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 ture to an otherwise delightfully fruity yet balanced Red Newt Cellars 2017 Pinot Gris (Finger wine. —A.P. One Woman 2016 Estate Reserve Sauvignon 90 Lakes). Lemon and lime peel aromas meld abv: 12.6% Price: $18 87 Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). Ripe yel- with depths of honeysuckle and honeycomb wax low plum, lemon-lime popsicle and fennel frond on the nose. There’s a pleasing silkiness to the One Woman 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (North aromas grace the nose. There’s silkiness to the medium-bodied palate, with ample acidity lending 90 Fork of Long Island). Ripe pear and tart medium-bodied palate, with a stony mineral note lift. A gentle waxy lemon-rind note lingers on the pineapple aromas are cut with freshly chopped pushing through alongside tart fruit. It ends slightly close of this textural white. —A.P. herbs on the nose. The medium-bodied palate hot and peppery. —A.P. abv: 12.1% Price: $17 shows plenty of juicy orchard and tropical fruit fla- abv: 12.9% Price: $32 vors, yet remains taut and polished, rounded out by Living Roots 2018 Golden Bosc Pinot Gris some gentle creaminess. —A.P. Saltbird 2017 Migratus Sauvignon Blanc 89 (Finger Lakes). Ripe yellow plum, apple, abv: 12.9% Price: $28 87 (North Fork of Long Island). Aged in French honeysuckle and honeycomb wax aromas carry to oak for six months, this white offers tones of creamy the billowy, textured palate. There’s a gentle waxi- Wölffer 2019 Antonov Sauvignon Blanc melon, yellow plum and candlewax. There’s not ness to the fruit flavors on the rich, medium-bodied 90 (Long Island). Bright aromas of pineapple much intensity to the fruit on the palate, but what’s palate, with just enough acidity for lift. It ends with and lemon meet a touch of herbal spice on the nose. there is enjoyable for its fruity and savory elements. some floral bitters. —A.P. There’s weight and roundness to the palate, filled —A.P. abv: 13.7% Price: $22 out by plenty of juicy pineapple and yellow plum abv: 13.1% Price: $27 flavors. Herbal, peppery spices chime in on the mid- Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2019 Pinot Gris (Fin- palate to ground all that fruit, while a tangy line of Glenora 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Seneca 88 ger Lakes). Apple, pear and lemon peel fresh acidity extends from start to finish. —A.P. 86 Lake). Mild aromas of lemongrass, candied aromas are zesty and brisk on the nose. There’s a abv: 13.2% Price: $30 melon and pear carry the nose. This is light in feel, pleasing roundness to the palate, with plenty of taut with zesty, fresh acidity outlining the crunchy cit- acidity and juicy orchard fruit flavors to lift it up. Buttonwood Grove 2019 Fumé Blanc (Finger rus and pear notes. —A.P. —A.P. 89 Lakes). Zesty aromas of lemon-lime pop- abv: 13% Price: $19 abv: 12% Price: $17 sicle, gooseberries and peppery herbs start off this crisp white. It’s light in feel yet lifted by loads of RGNY 2018 Scielo NY Sauvignon Blanc Hector Wine Company 2018 Pinot Gris (Sen- tangy citrus on the palate. There’s a pleasing purity 86 (North Fork of Long Island). Crunchy green 88 eca Lake). Aromas of juiced apple and pear to it all, with some delicate creamed citrus lingering pear, seared lemon and grass clippings carry the meld with a bit of warm spice tones in this Pinot on the close. —A.P. delicate nose. The palate is demure, not giving much Gris that’s partially aged in neutral French oak. abv: 12% Price: $22 away beyond pithy yellow fruit all honed by bright Firmly medium in weight, there’s roundness to acidity. —A.P. the juicy orchard fruit on the palate, with a gentle Jamesport 2019 Estate Sauvignon Blanc abv: 12.9% Price: $27 wrapping of warm spice. —A.P. 89 (North Fork of Long Island). Aromas of abv: 12% Price: $18 juiced pear, fresh green herbs and a bit of earthy, Pellegrini Vineyards 2019 Sauvignon Blanc warm spice carry the nose of this Sauvignon Blanc. 84 (North Fork of Long Island). There’s a green, Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2018 Pinot Gris About a third of this wine sees time in large for- leafy quality on the nose, riding over tones of green 88 (Finger Lakes). Aromas of fresh apple and mat Italian botti, which lends some roundness and pear, citrus peels and wet moss. The palate is light honeysuckle carry the delicate nose. There’s a gen- spice to the palate, yet the taut orchard-fruit flavors in feel, with citrus and melon flavors wrapped in tle roundness to the medium-bodied palate, with are the main focus. A slightly briny edge adds some a peppery, grassy note. A green peppercorn accent juicy orchard fruit flavors wrapped in a bit of dry savory appeal to the finish. —A.P. arises on the finish. —A.P. honeycomb and white flowers. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 12.2% Price: $15

Bedell 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (North Fork of Atwater 2018 Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). Brisk 88 Long Island). Demure aromas of lemongrass PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO 87 aromas of lemon-lime popsicle and red apple and crushed stone lead to the juicy, spritzy palate. carry to the medium-bodied palate. There’s taut- Ripe pear and yellow plum flavors show nice round- Lenz 2015 Estate Selection Pinot Gris (North ness to the acidity and texture, holding all that juicy ness, with just enough citrusy acidity to lend bal- 91 Fork of Long Island). This medium-bodied fruit in check, but it ends rather quickly. —A.P. ance. It’s light in style, but utterly refreshing. —A.P. white starts off with zesty aromas of crushed stone, abv: 13.1% Price: $18 abv: 12% Price: $30 lime peel and white blossoms. There’s rounded, juicy weight on the palate, yet still a tautness to the Bedell 2019 Small Batch Series Corey Creek yellow plum and pear fruit that comes off slightly 87 Vineyard Pinot Grigio (North Fork of Long

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Island). This bright, fruity wine is driven by banana, peppery spice. It’s a refreshing, streamlined expres- pineapple, pear and apple on the nose. There’s a sion that does justice to the Austrian variety. —A.P. OTHER WHITE WINES gentle creaminess to the palate, where the orchard abv: 12.5% Price: $17 fruit flavors are demure and are lifted by a mild vein Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Amber Rkatsiteli on acidity. —A.P. Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Grüner Veltliner 91 (Finger Lakes). For full review see page 14. abv: 12% Price: $25 87 (Finger Lakes). A fruity explosion of peach abv: 12% Price: $40 and pineapple starts this off, with accents of white Lakewood 2018 Gigliotti Vineyards Pinot Gris pepper and lemongrass grounding it all. The light- Hector Wine Company 2019 Pinot Blanc (Sen- 87 (Finger Lakes). There’s a distinct white but- bodied palate offers brisk flavors of gooseberry and 91 eca Lake). Ripe yellow plum and apple aromas ton mushroom aroma to this wine, which adds a tart tropical fruit, all honed by an integrated vein of are met with gentle warm-spice accents on the nose pleasing earthiness to the citrus and pear fruit. It’s acidity. —A.P. of this Pinot Blanc that was fermented and aged in light in feel but properly lifted by refreshing acid- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 French oak. It’s rounded and rather full in feel, with ity. —A.P. juicy yellow fruit leading the way but grounded by abv: 11.85% Price: $15 Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2018 Grüner Veltliner more delicate warm spices, candlewax and a gentle 86 (Finger Lakes). Rather light on fruit on the floral kick. —A.P. Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Pinot Gris (Fin- nose, this Grüner shows hints of lemon peel along- abv: 12.6% Price: $20 86 ger Lakes). There’s a slightly candied vibe side peppery spice. There’s some nice juiciness to to the brisk aromas of apple, pear and lemon on the citrus and yellow apple fruit on the palate, with Lieb 2019 Estate Pinot Blanc (North Fork the nose. It’s light in feel on the palate, with brisk crisp acidity leading the way. —A.P. 90 of Long Island). A portion of this white is orchard fruit flavors that end a bit short. —A.P. abv: 12.6% Price: $16 sourced from vineyards planted in 1983, making abv: 12% Price: $17 them some of the oldest on the North Fork. It kicks Hosmer 2019 Grüner Veltliner (Cayuga off with cohesive aromas of ripe yellow apple, pear, Glenora 2019 Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). Aro- 86 Lake). Faint aromas of lemon peel, white jasmine and lemongrass. These tones echo on the 85 mas of candied lemon and lime peels meld pepper and green herbs carry to the streamlined medium-bodied palate, where rounded, juicy fruit with a bit of savory yeast on the nose. It starts off palate. This is brisk and light in profile, with a short, is met with bright, zesty acidity. —A.P. creamy on the light-bodied palate, lifted by brisk savory finish. —A.P. abv: 11.9% Price: $20 flavors of yellow apple and citrus, with sharp acid- abv: 12.2% Price: $16 ity and more savoriness arising on the finish. —A.P. Atwater 2017 Skin Ferment Gewürztraminer- abv: 12% Price: $15 88 Vignoles (Finger Lakes). Billowing aromas ALBARIÑO of ripe peach, jasmine, oolong tea and honeycomb Penguin Bay 2019 Pinot Grigio (Finger carry the nose of this blend of Gewürztraminer and 85 Lakes). Aromas of juiced pear and a hint of Bedell 2019 Albariño (North Fork of Long Vignoles that spent 14 days on the skins. The palate warm spice lead to the juicy palate. The flavors are a 89 Island). Peach, apple and white flower aro- is dry, with a gentle smokiness surrounding flavors bit muted, but what’s there is nice. —A.P. mas are bright and pure on the nose, dotted with of peach and white flowers. Juicy acidity and a thin abv: 11% Price: $16 a hint of sea spray. This is crisp and juicy on the blanket of tannins frame it all, making this an inter- palate, showing rounded orchard fruit flavors lifted esting orange wine expression. —A.P. Wölffer 2019 Cellar Series Pinot Gris (Long by lots of lemony acidity. The fruit gracefully lingers abv: 12.7% Price: $32 84 Island). There’s not a whole lot of fruit on the finish, making this quite easy to enjoy. —A.P. intensity to this white, giving just hints of citrus abv: 12% Price: $40 Bedell 2019 Viognier (North Fork of Long and apple away. Texturally, it shows some round- 88 Island). This blossomy, floral wine offers ness that’s held in check by taut acidity. —A.P. Fjord 2019 Albariño (Hudson River Region). jasmine, honeysuckle and peach backed by accents abv: 12.5% Price: $24 89 Perfumed aromas of peach, pineapple and of lemon and pine. The palate lands softly, with a white blossoms show pleasing depth on the nose. pillowy feel that’s still adequately lifted by bright There’s heft to the palate, with citrus and floral acidity. —A.P. GRÜNER VELTLINER flavors holding court but wavering slightly on the abv: 12.5% Price: $30 midpalate. Overall, this is a fruity, bold wine that One Woman 2019 Grüner Veltliner (North many will enjoy. —A.P. Pindar Vineyards 2019 Dr. Dan’s Signature 89 Fork of Long Island). Defined aromas of abv: 13.9% Price: $23 88 Collections (North Fork of Long Island). peach, apple and white pepper grace the nose. Bright aromas of white blossoms, candied lemon There’s admirable concentration of fruit on the Billsboro 2019 Sawmill Creek Vineyards peels and orchard fruit carry the nose of this blend medium-bodied palate, with taut stone fruit flavors 86 Albariño (Finger Lakes). Lemon and peach of Viognier, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Ries- honed by a pithy texture. It ends lifted in acidity, aromas are covered in a savory blanket of yeast on ling. Juicy citrus and yellow plum flavors are housed with a final kick of peppery spice. —A.P. the nose. The palate is streamlined in feel, driven on a juicy, easy-to-like palate. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $25 by racy acidity that leads to a lingering lemon-juice abv: 12.5% Price: $25 tone. —A.P. Weis 2019 Grüner Veltliner (Finger Lakes). abv: 12.7% Price: $24 Pindar Vineyards 2019 Viognier (North Fork 88 A fresh, vibrant nose of lemongrass, white 87 of Long Island). This billowy white offers pepper and peach leads to the slightly rounded, Jamesport 2019 Estate Albariño (North peach, apricot and white flower tones dusted in light-bodied palate. Juicy stone fruit flavors are 85 Fork of Long Island). An odd geranium tone some bubblegum spice. There’s good balance to it lifted by bright, sunny acidity, ending on a crisp, distracts from the juicy pineapple and peach core all, making it an enjoyable choice as an aperitif. fruity finish. —A.P. of this wine. It’s light in profile, with tart, lemony —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $19 acidity driving the palate. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $37 Zugibe 2019 Grüner Veltliner (Finger Lakes). One Woman 2019 Chenin Blanc (North Fork 88 From vineyards planted in 2007, this brisk 85 of Long Island). Initially this doesn’t give white offers crisp tones of lime peel, tart apple and much away, eventually showing sharp aromas of melon and guava. The palate leans more blossomy,

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 with slight elements of lemon and melon. It ends short and savory. —A.P. PORTUGAL DÃO abv: 13% Price: $28 WHITE WINES Quinta da Taboadella 2019 Reserva Encru- Wölffer 2019 Cellar Series Semillon (Long 92 zado (Dão). This rich, partially wood-aged 83 Island). Aromas of green bell pepper, jala- DOURO wine is finely textured, with smooth yellow fruits peño and za’atar spice carry the nose. The palate is and a well-judged spiciness from the wood aging. It lean in feel, with sharp acidity leading the way. It Quinta das Carvalhas 2019 Carvalhas Branco is ripe while also having great freshness, acidity and ends hot. —A.P. 93 (Douro). This wine is rich and wood aged, crispness at the end. Drink from late 2021. Terroir abv: 13.5% Price: $25 full of apricot, pear and fresher lime flavors. These Selections. —R.V. are highlighted by the toastiness, the spice and abv: 13.5% Price: $34 vanilla as well as the mineral texture. The wine is OTHER AMERICA still young, so wait until 2022. Vinofiamma. —R.V. Broadbent 2019 Broadbent White (Dão). abv: 13.5% Price: $30 87 Fruity, with a fine creamy touch, this wine is SPARKLING WINE perfumed and ripe. The wine’s tangy character adds Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo lemon to the green-apple fruitiness and luminous Battle Creek NV Yamhela Vineyard Blanc de 93 2019 Mirabilis (Douro). From old vineyards aftertaste. Drink now. Broadbent Selections, Inc. 90 Noir (America). This was given an Ameri- dominated by Viosinho and Gouveio, the wine is —R.V. can label, but don’t be fooled—this is all Willamette serious, wood aged and rich. Concentration comes abv: 13% Price: $15 Valley fruit. Strawberry and raspberry aromas lead from the old vines and has been channeled into to bright, fresh flavors. There’s a lot to like. —S.S. the white fruit and toasty flavors. The wine is still abv: 12.5% Price: $45 young, intense and should age. Drink from 2022 ALENTEJANO Terroir Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $88 Luis Duarte 2019 Rubrica (Alentejano). ROSÉ 92 ­Antão Vaz and Verdelho go with a dash of Wine & Soul 2019 Guru (Douro). From old Viognier to produce a fine rich, floral and wood- Steamboat Winery 2019 Ranch Dog Rosé 90 white vines and aged in wood, this is a aged wine. Its lemon and apricot fruits give crisp- 87 (America). Made from Sonoma County- dense wine, with strong minerality from the schist ness and ripeness at the same time promising more grown Pinot Noir in a Colorado-based winery, this soil and a tight texture. The wine needs to age with time before maturity. Drink from 2022. Specialty pink wine is light, crisp and simple, the palate tex- its rich kiwi fruitiness and tense acidity. Drink from Cellars. —R.V. ture steely and metallic. Flavors range from orange late 2021. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 and grapefruit to wild strawberry. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.8% Price: $20 Monte da Ravasqueira 2018 Ravasqueira Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 91 ­Premium Branco (Alentejano). A year in wood 89 2019 Grainha Reserva (Douro). The second has enriched this fine blend of Viognier,­Alvarinho, CABERNET SAUVIGNON range from this great estate in the Douro’s central Arinto and Marsanne. Richly textured, showing great Cima Corgo region is easily accessible when young. white fruits, citrus and hints of tropical flavors, the Bieler Family 2018 Born To Run Cabernet This fruity, lightly oaked wine exemplifies this char- wine will need a few more months to reach its peak. 90 Sauvignon (America). For full review see acteristic, with its fine mix of citrus, peach and Drink from late 2021. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. page 20. Best Buy. vanilla flavors. Drink the wine from late 2021. Ter- abv: 12.5% Price: $35 abv: 13.9% Price: $12 roir Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 Luis Duarte 2019 Rapariga da Quinta Colheita Steamboat Winery 2017 The Antlers Caber- 89 Seleccionada Branco (Alentejano). This wine 89 net Sauvignon (America). Tight and thick Wine & Soul 2019 Manoella Branco (Douro). celebrates crisp fruit, bright acidity and fine fresh in tannins, this wine is concentrated in dust, sage 89 Produced from old vines, this crisp, apple apples and citrus. The wine has a majority of ­Antão and cedar highlights that ride along a palate of flavored and textured wine is already delicious. But Vaz along with and Arinto; its crisp- dense, chewy blackberry and cherry. The oak is pro- it will be even better as the taut character softens ness and fruitiness work well together. Drink now. nounced and adds to the length and breadth. —V.B. slightly, so wait to drink until late 2021. Winebow. S­pecialty Cellars. —R.V. abv: 14.7% Price: $39 —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 12% Price: $22 Steamboat Winery 2017 River Angler Cab- 88 ernet Sauvignon (America). Made from Real Companhia Velha 2019 Quinta dos LISBOA Cabernet Sauvignon and a sizable amount of Cab- 88 Aciprestes Branco (Douro). Ripe, creamy ernet Franc, this wine opens with inviting aromas textured with a line of citrus flavors, this is a fruity Quinta do Pinto 2016 Grande Escolha (Lisboa). of baking spice and blackberry, flavors that follow wine. Its fresh acidity, zesty lemon and ripe apple 93 Portuguese blending is sometimes a mys- through on the dense, chewy palate. It is deeply rich flavors are refreshingly bright. The wine is ready to tery. How did Chardonnay, Marsanne, Roussanne in chocolate and vanilla notes. —V.B. drink. Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. and Sémillon end up in one wine? Except that it abv: 14.8% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 works effortlessly with a wine that is now mature, boasting pineapple, apricot and spice flavors in an Real Companhia Velha 2018 Quinta do Síbio impressive combination. The wine is ready to drink. 87 Arinto (Douro). The wine’s freshness is still Cru Selections. —R.V. complete and is exemplified by the bright apple abv: 14% Price: $34 acidity and the tangy citrus character. The wine is pure fruitiness, ready to drink now. Vinofiamma. Companhia das Quintas 2017 Quinta de —R.V. 90 ­Pancas Reserva Chardonnay (Lisboa). abv: 13% Price: $25 Oak-aged Chardonnay, now mature, this wine has touches­ of tropical fruits to match its creamy

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BUYINGGUIDE texture and spice from the wood aging. Full bod- holds together well, and the wine is ready to drink. Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo ied and opulent, this fine wine is ready to drink. ­Vintage Wine Marketing. —R.V. 94 2017 Grande Reserva (Douro). Blending H­ungaricum LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Touriga Nacional and 100-year-old vines, this wine abv: 13.5% Price: $35 is impressively rich. Dusty tannins give a rich struc- Broadbent NV Vinho Verde. The freshly sliced ture that will certainly allow the wine to age further. Quinta do Pinto 2018 Viognier-Chardonnay­ 87 apple fruitiness combined with citrus acid- The dense black fruits, with touches of licorice are 90 (Lisboa). Rich, smoothly textured (­although ity give this fruity wine an attractive lively charac- also ready to continue to mature. Drink from 2024. with just a tang of bright acidity), this is a wood- ter. It is tangy, crisp and ready to drink. Broadbent Terroir Selections. —R.V. aged wine with a fine balance. Acidity and fresh Selections, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $123 lemons contrast with the wine’s riper apple and abv: 9% Price: $10 pear flavors in a blend that will age further. Drink Real Companhia Velha 2015 Quinta dos from 2022. Cru Selections. —R.V. Quinta do Pinto 2019 Vinhas do Lasso 94 Aciprestes Grande Reserva Talhão 14 Touriga abv: 14% Price: $34 86 (Alenquer).­ A fruity, ripe blend of Arinto Nacional (Douro). Produced from a small parcel of and Fernão Pires, this is light and bright. Crisp acid- 25-year-old vines known as Talhão 14, this wine Companhia das Quintas 2019 Quinta de Pan- ity gives a fine lift of acidity and freshness. Drink is finely balanced and impressive in its richness. 88 cas Branco (Lisboa). Crisp and fruity, this the wine now. Cru Selections. —R.V. The wood aging and dark fruits have produced a pineapple-flavored wine is ripe while cut with cit- abv: 13% Price: $13 great Touriga Nacional, perfumed structured, with rus flavors to give freshness. It is lively, perfumed intense black-currant fruits and some gracious and ready to drink. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. freshness at the end. Drink from 2022. Metrowine abv: 13.5% Price: $18 ROSÉS ­Distribution. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $75 Quinta do Pinto 2018 Reserva Arinto (Lisboa).­ Real Companhia Velha 2019 Síbio Rosé 86 The wine, still young, was wood aged giving 87 (Douro).­ With a ripe blend of Touriga Nacio- Real Companhia Velha 2014 Quinta dos both rich toastiness and tropical fruits. The combi- nal and Touriga Franca, this is a full wine, now soft 94 Aciprestes Grande Reserva Sousão (Douro). nation doesn’t quite work, as it is unbalanced and and open, with a warm red-fruit character. Acidity Revealing the rich tannins the Sousão variety showing too much woodiness. Cru Selections. —R.V. comes through at the end. Drink now. Vinofiamma. can produce, the wine is complex and ripe. Dark, abv: 14% Price: $28 —R.V. smoky tannins are still firm but show well against abv: 13% Price: $25 the blackberry fruits and acidity. The wine is not Adega Mãe 2019 Lisboa Valley Selection showing any sign of aging yet, so drink from 2022. 84 (Lisboa). Crisp, and with almost too intense Broadbent NV Rosé (Vinho Verde). With its Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. acidity, this lemon-flavored wine is herbal and 86 light prickle on the tongue, this off-dry rosé abv: 13.5% Price: $75 ­really fresh. Drink this tight, bright wine now. Aidil is fresh and fruity. There is an attractive red-berry Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. fruitiness that is touched by baked apple at the end. Wine & Soul 2018 Pintas (Douro). For full abv: 13% Price: $10 Drink now. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Best Buy. 94 review see page 8. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $115 abv: 10% Price: $10 OTHER WHITE WINES Wine & Soul 2017 Quinta da Manoella Vinhas 94 Velhas (Douro). Old vines, at least 100 years Quinta do Pinto 2018 Arinto (Alenquer). PORTUGAL old, have yielded their bounty of dense concentra- 92 The wine is produced from Arinto, the local­ tion and powerful rich fruits. The wine’s structure white hero grape. Partially wood aged and with RED WINES is still dry, with a solid core of tannins that will beautiful ripe apricot and toast flavors, the wine is soften into a very fine, ripe wine. Drink from 2024. impressive, ripe and ready to drink. Cru Selections. DOURO Winebow. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $115 abv: 14% Price: $24 Casa Ferreirinha 2017 Quinta da Leda (Douro).­ 95 The wine comes from a quinta in the Douro Companhia das Quintas 2014 Uniqo Grande Herdade do Esporão 2019 Esporão Reserva Superior that forms part of the blend for the iconic 93 Reserva (Douro). Blending Tinta Roriz and 90 (Alentejo). For full review see page 17. Barca Velha wine. This wine shows the same pedi- Touriga Franca with just a touch of Touriga Nacional, abv: 14% Price: $20 gree and richness, with a beautiful balance and this powerful wine has dark tannins and smoky fla- ­restraint. The black fruits are still vivid and need to vors from the mature fruits. Secondary flavors, spice Valados de Melgaço 2019 Reserva Alvarinho soften further into the concentrated tannins. This and acidity have comfortably come together in this 90 (Vinho Verde). A tense, richly fruity wine, is a wine for serious aging and should not be drunk fine, generous wine. Drink now. Hungaricum LLC. this has a fine balance and poise. Fresh apples and before 2024. Evaton, Inc. —R.V. —R.V. citrus flavors are allied with a mineral texture in abv: 13.5% Price: $75 abv: 15% Price: $60 a wine that is tight, perfumed and would benefit from a few more months. Drink from late 2021. Quinta das Carvalhas 2018 Carvalhas Old Quinta das Carvalhas 2016 Carvalhas Touriga Sommtable.com. —R.V. 95 Vines (Douro). For full review see page 5. 93 Nacional (Douro). This is a finely textured abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 14% Price: $100 wine, just approaching maturity but its tannins and perfumes are impressive. The spectacular vineyard Valle Pradinhos 2019 Reserva Branco (Trás-os- Wine & Soul 2017 Pintas (Douro). An on the southern bank of the Douro has given a ripe 90 Montes). Even for Portugal, home of the 95 impressive wine, concentrated from old wine, packed with black fruits and with a fine future. blended wine, this is unusual. Riesling, Gewürztra- vines in a field blend, this is set for long-term aging. Drink from 2022. Vinofiamma. —R.V. miner and come together in a perfumed The tannins are rich rather than dry—a reflection of abv: 13% Price: $75 wine, spicy with lychee flavors as well as crisper the succulent fruits and the massive structure. This acidity and minerality. The fascinating blend wood-aged wine needs to age much longer. Drink Quinta do Pessegueiro 2017 Douro. This from 2024. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 93 estate, near São João de Pesqueira on the abv: 14.5% Price: $115 southern bank of the Douro, has produced a struc-

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 tured and firm wine. Its big tannins are balanced by Quinta das Carvalhas 2016 Carvalhas Tinta Broadbent 2019 Red (Douro). Lightly struc- the black-currant fruits and spice from wood aging. 91 Francisca (Douro). Produced from one of 88 tured, this wine brings out fruitiness as It’s a fine wine, rich and just approaching maturity. the less familiar varieties in the Douro, the wine is well as some firm tannins It is elegant and bright. Drink now or from 2022. Cognac One, LLC. —R.V. smoothly textured, with poise and attractive acid- A mineral texture gives the wine a good bite at the abv: 14.5% Price: $32 ity. Red-berry fruits shine through the wine, bring- end along with the fruitiness. Drink now. Broadbent ing acidity as well as lightness. The wine is ready to Selections, Inc. —R.V. Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo drink. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 93 2017 Referência Grande Reserva (Douro). A abv: 13% Price: $60 blend of old vines and rich Tinta Roriz, the wine Delaforce 2017 Red (Douro). This soft, red- is powerful and still carries plenty of aging poten- Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 2018 88 fruit flavored wine is easy on the palate. tial. The wine’s structure and the rich licorice and 91 Reserva Terroir Blend (Douro). This is a mas- With an attractive balance between fruit and sus- black-plum flavors are underlined by the 12 months sive wine, solid with tannins as well as young fruit. taining tannins, the wine has reached its peak and is of wood aging. The result is a powerful, dense wine It comes from a blend of different parcels, aged for ready to drink. Signature Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. that should be ready from 2023. Terroir Selections. six months in wood. The wine has concentration abv: 13.5% Price: $12 —R.V. and structure, both of which need to soften. Drink abv: 14% Price: $123 from 2023. Terroir Selections. —R.V. Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo abv: 14% Price: $35 88 2019 Unoaked (Douro). As its name indi- Wine & Soul 2018 Quinta da Manoella Vinhas cates, this wine was matured in tanks rather than 93 Velhas (Douro). Centenarian vines from a Quinta Vale d’Aldeia 2018 Xaino Selection wood. That has brought out ripe black fruits as well vineyard in the depths of the Pinhão Valley have 91 (Douro). Rich and juicy, this is a powerful as an earthy character that will soften as the wine produced an immense wine. It is dark, with choco- wine. Tannins and concentrated dark fruits are ages. Its perfumed fruitiness is already promising late flavors and powerful tannins. But it does also right up front. The fruit, black currants and black- good things—just give this wine until 2022. Terroir have a layer of black fruits that will come through plum skins are dense but kept fresh by the wine’s Selections. —R.V. strongly. Drink the wine from 2024. Winebow. perfumed acidity. Drink from 2023. Leo’s Choice. abv: 14% Price: $21 —R.V. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $115 abv: 14.5% Price: $12 Companhia das Quintas 2016 Uniqo (Douro). 87 Soft and fruity, the wine is now ready to Fiuza 2018 Casa d’Arrachella Grandes Quintas Real Companhia Velha 2018 Quinta dos drink. Its berry fruits have softened into the tannins 92 Colheita (Douro). This is a luscious wine, 91 Aciprestes Reserva (Douro). This estate on to give a wine that is rounded with a fresh edge of rich with opulent black fruits and generous cush- the south bank of the Douro is marked by a line of acidity. Drink now. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. ioned tannins. There is a succulent character as cypress trees (Aciprestes). The wine is dense with abv: 14% Price: $20 well, giving a wine with power and simultaneous tannins that are still young and are just beginning to charm. Drink from 2023. Votto Vines Importing. soften. With its rich black fruits, this fine wine will Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo —R.V. be generously ready to drink from 2023. Metrowine 86 2019 Pomares (Douro). An open, accessible abv: 14% Price: $30 Distribution. —R.V. wine with ripe berry fruits and soft tannins, this is abv: 14.5% Price: $25 full of fruitiness and layers of acidity. It needs a few Wine & Soul 2018 Pintas Character (Douro). months to soften and fully integrate, so drink from 92 From old vines in the Vale de Mendiz, above Wine & Soul 2018 Manoella (Douro). For full late 2021. Terroir Selections. —R.V. the Pinhão river, this wine has dark fruits that are 91 review see page 15. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 laced with the freshness of acidity. There is a strong abv: 14% Price: $22 minerality here—a wine that bursts with richness Real Companhia Velha 2018 Porca de Murça and black-chocolate flavors. Drink the wine from Quinta das Carvalhas 2016 Tinto (Douro). 86 (Douro). Four grapes go into this attractive 2023. Winebow. —R.V. 89 Now, a smoothly textured wine, this is rich blend with its soft tannins and open texture. It is abv: 14.5% Price: $37 with black fruits that have opened out to give ripe fresh, with red-berry fruits and a readily accessi- acidity and a rich poise. The wine is ready to drink. ble character. Drink now. Metrowine Distribution. Wine & Soul 2017 Manoella (Douro). Choco- Vinofiamma. —R.V. —R.V. 92 late and black-coffee flavored and with a abv: 15% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 considerable dark texture, the wine has richness and concentration. It is still young, the black-plum Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Real Companhia Velha 2017 Quinta de Cîdro flavors and acidity still pounding their way through 89 2018 Grainha Reserva (Douro). Aged in a 86 Touriga Nacional (Douro). The firm tannins the tannins, so it does need to age, Drink from 2022. mix of French and American oak, this is made to be of this wine are still densely up front, masking the Winebow. —R.V. a wine that matures quickly. Tinta Roriz, Touriga black-currant fruits. The wine seems to be heavily abv: 14.5% Price: $115 Nacional and Touriga Franca are blended into a extracted, with some bitterness as well as dark- smooth wine that has juicy black fruits, with fresh- chocolate flavors. It could soften, but will remain Wine & Soul 2017 Pintas Character (Douro). ness as well as a core of structure. The wine will be tough. Vinofiamma. —R.V. 92 For full review see page 12. ready from 2022. Terroir Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $37 abv: 14% Price: $29

Casa Ferreirinha 2018 Callabriga (Douro). Quinta Vale d’Aldeia 2015 Xaino Grande LISBOA 91 Named after a Roman city that existed in the 89 Reserva (Douro). Definitely mature now, Douro region, this wine is impressively balanced, this wine is rich with secondary flavors. Its tannins, Companhia das Quintas 2016 Quinta de rich with both tannins and vanilla flavors. They go though, do suggest that it is beginning to dry out, 95 ­Pancas Grande Reserva (Lisboa). Still young with the perfumed blackberry fruits and the wine’s having almost reached its tipping point into old age. and still showing its immense power and structure, sophistication. Drink from 2022. Evaton, Inc. —R.V. So enjoy the dense structure, the perfumed under- this is a seriously wood-aged wine. That means it abv: 13.5% Price: $40 growth flavors now. Leo’s Choice. —R.V. will need time to fully develop to match the opulent abv: 13.5% Price: $26

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BUYINGGUIDE black fruits and concentration. Drink this fine wine Adega Mãe 2019 Dory (Lisboa). Named ­after Quinta de S. Sebastião 2019 Janela Branca from 2023. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. 88 fishing boats, the wine is an eclectic blend of 86 (Lisboa). A spicy blend of Syrah and abv: 14% Price: $60 four varieties, including Syrah and Pinot Noir. The Castelão, this wine (red, despite the word Branca result is perfumed, ripe and softly texture. Wood- in the name) has obvious wood aging that needs to Quinta do Pinto 2017 Syrah (Lisboa). This is aging flavors bring some dryness to the wine’s gener- integrate better with the red fruits before it is ready 94 a spicy, lusciously fruity wine. Rich black- ous fruitiness but they will soften. Drink now. Aidil to drink. Give it until late 2021. Wein Bauer Inc. berry flavors are sustained by the tannins and the Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy. —R.V. Best Buy. —R.V. succulent acidity and texture. Aged for 18 months abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $9 in wood, the wine was selected from what the pro- ducer considered a fine harvest. Drink this generous Companhia das Quintas 2018 Tradição DFJ Vinhos 2019 Coreto (Lisboa). Six grapes wine from 2022. Cru Selections. —R.V. 88 Reserva (Lisboa). Aged in wood, this 85 go into this soft, fruity blend. Red fruits and abv: 15% Price: $28 smooth vanilla and black-fruit-flavored wine is a light tannic structure are matched by the bright solid, structured while also having generous fruiti- acidity and fruity aftertaste. Drink now. Multiple Quinta do Pinto 2016 Grande Escolha ness. The combination gives a wine that will shortly U.S. importers. Best Buy. —R.V. 94 (Lisboa).­ This rich blend of Merlot, Petit be very drinkable, ripe, full bodied and approach- abv: 11.5% Price: $9 Verdot and Touriga Nacional is bold and bighearted, able. Drink from late 2021. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. with rich tannins as well as dense black-plum and abv: 14% Price: $25 damson fruits with layers of acidity. A powerful TEJO wine, fully textured and with a dark structure, this DFJ Vinhos 2019 Paxis (Lisboa). Three ­Douro could age further. Drink from 2022. Cru Selections. 88 varieties, grown in the Lisboa region, go into Fiuza 2019 Ikon Touriga Nacional (Tejo). The —R.V. this wine. That gives it some structure, although not 93 top wine from this producer is rich, dense abv: 14.5% Price: $34 too much to mask the blackberry fruits. So the wine and an impressive exposition of Touriga Nacional. is a little young, but it will certainly be ready from The wine’s structure and dry core go with the black- Companhia das Quintas 2017 Quinta de late 2021. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. plum fruits and the mineral texture. This has a way 93 ­Pancas Reserva (Lisboa). Produced from abv: 12.5% Price: $10 to go, so drink from 2023. Votto Vines Importing. a selection of fruit, this wine is a blend of Caber- —R.V. net Sauvignon, Alicante Bouschet and Syrah. It is DFJ Vinhos 2018 Pedras do Monte (Lisboa). abv: 14.5% Price: $54 dense, deeply structured, full of dark-plum and 88 A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Tinta damson fruits that are shaped by the tannins. The Roriz has produced an elegant, lightly structured Fiuza 2019 Reserva Premium Alicante Bous- wine has fine potential, and should not be touched and wood-aged wine. Ripe tannins and juicy black 92 chet (Tejo). Eight months of wood aging before 2022. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. fruits come together in a wine that is ready to drink. bring out the richness, the dark color and the dense abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Multiple U.S. importers. Best Buy. —R.V. perfumes of the Alicante Bouschet. Dusty tannins, abv: 13% Price: $10 eucalyptus perfumes from the wood aging and Companhia das Quintas 2016 Quinta de considerable potential mark the wine. Drink from 92 ­Pancas Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon Quinta de S. Sebastião 2019 Mil Caminhos­ 2023. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. (Lisboa). Ripe, wood-aged and now just ready to 88 (Lisboa). This is a smoothly textured and abv: 14% Price: $40 drink, the wine has all the fruity character of Cab- ­vibrantly fruity wine. Red fruits shine through the ernet Sauvignon, black currants and intense acid- light texture to give attractive freshness, red-berry Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2017 Bridão ity. That goes with the structure that is still in place flavors and acidity. The wine is ready to drink. Wein 91 Colheita Seleccionada Trincadeira (Tejo). One while leaving plenty of room for the vibrant fruits. Bauer Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. in a well-matured range of single-variety wines The wine, still full of fruitiness, is ready to drink but abv: 13% Price: $10 from this cooperative, this wine is wood aged and is could certainly be held until 2022. Hungaricum LLC. rich with tannins, spice and deliciously appetizing —R.V. Adega Mãe 2019 Lisboa Valley Selection Red fruit. The wine could do with a few more months, so abv: 13.5% Price: $50 87 (Lisboa). The wine is both structured and drink from late 2021. Wine Enterprises LLC. —R.V. generously rich. The tannins and wood-aging flavors abv: 15% Price: $12 Companhia das Quintas 2015 Quinta de Pan- are cushioned by the ripe black fruits to give a wine 90 cas Grande Reserva (Lisboa). Dominated by that has a soft texture and is open and ready to drink. Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2016 Bridão Touriga Nacional and Cabernet Sauvignon, it is no Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy. —R.V. 90 Colheita Seleccionada Alicante Bouschet surprise that this wine shows dense tannins. The abv: 13.5% Price: $10 (Tejo). The richness and dark color of the Alicante fruit seems to be going missing and only comes Bouschet is readily apparent in this wine. It has the through slowly as the wine opens up. To get the full DFJ Vinhos 2019 Portada Winemaker’s right power and density and black-plum flavors. effect of this wine’s power, it needs to be decanted. 87 Selection­ (Lisboa). While the wine has a fine After time in the bottle, everything has smoothed Drink from 2022. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. balance between fruit and light tannins, it also has out to produce a solid wine, ready to drink. Watch abv: 14% Price: $60 a cool streak of acidity that comes from a vineyard the alcohol. Wine Enterprises LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. location influenced by the Atlantic Ocean. It is an abv: 15% Price: $12 DFJ Vinhos 2018 Portada Reserva (Lisboa). attractive, fruity wine that is ready to drink. Tri-Vin 90 For full review see page 20. Best Buy. Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2017 Bridão abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Price: $10 89 Colheita Seleccionada Touriga Nacional (Tejo). Aged for nine months in wood, this struc- Companhia das Quintas 2018 Quinta de DFJ Vinhos 2019 Casa do Lago (Lisboa). tured wine is still young. The black-currant fruits 89 ­Pancas Tinto (Lisboa). This is the estate 86 One of the multi-varietal wines that are a and vibrant acidity are right up front, juicy and with wine from this historic vineyard. It is fruity, juicy s­pecialty of this producer, the wine is finely bal- tannins that should soften further. One in a well- with red-berry flavors and tannins that are still anced. Red fruits and a succulent texture are fresh- matured range of single-variety wines from this young. The wine’s black-currant­ flavors burst from ened by the wine’s crisp acidity and fresh aftertaste. producer, the wine should be ready from late 2021. the glass, promising plenty of aging. Drink this Drink now. Multiple U.S. importers. Best Buy. —R.V. Wine Enterprises LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. ­attractive wine from 2022. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 14.5% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $18

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Fiuza 2019 3 Castas Reserva (Tejo). The Monte da Ravasqueira 2018 Alentejano. The Port is has turned wood aging into acidity and Eng- 89 three Castas—the three grape variet- 93 wine’s blend takes its cue from the wines of lish-toffee flavors. If it also has a medicinal edge, ies—are Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet and the northern Rhône Valley in France. As there, the that is just right for the kind of wine that can only Sousão. Together, they bring structure and dense white Viognier mitigates the tannins of the Syrah. be sipped and meditated upon. Drink now. Saranty fruitiness. The wine is rich, still with some dry tan- This wine is powerfully rich with its impressive Imports. —R.V. nin along with the black currant and vanilla flavors. tannins and layers of black fruits. Concentrated and abv: 20% Price: $175 Drink from late 2021. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. with serious tannins at this stage, the wood-aged abv: 13.5% Price: $25 wine will be ready from 2023. LGL Imports LLC. Quinta das Carvalhas 2018 Vintage Port. For —R.V. 94 full review see page 7. Fiuza 2019 Touriga Nacional (Tejo). The abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 20% Price: $70 89 wine has a fine core of tannins that give shape to the rich black fruits. Pure Touriga Nacio- Luis Duarte 2018 Rapariga da Quinta Colheita Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo nal, it is perfumed and with ripe blackberry flavors, 90 Seleccionada (Alentejano). Wood aged for 94 2018 Vintage Port. Old vines form the ­basis the wine is juicy and will be ready to drink from late six months, the wine has generous black fruits that of this impressive, rich and certainly ­ageworthy 2021. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. have been smoothed and given added complexity wine. Pepper, spice and massive black fruits are abv: 14% Price: $16 by the wood. This is a rich, damson-flavored wine, lightened by acidity. The Port is on the dry side, the tannins cushioned by the generous fruits. Drink with a core of firm tannins to contrast with the Fiuza 2019 Oceanus Reserva (Tejo). A blend from 2022. Specialty Cellars. —R.V. prunes and wood flavors. Drink from 2030. Terroir 88 of Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet, abv: 14% Price: $16 Selections. —R.V. the wine is perfumed with violets and blackberry abv: 20.5% Price: $126 fruits. On the palate, it is densely textured, smooth Monte da Ravasqueira 2018 Ravasqueria and already drinkable. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. 90 Touriga Franca (Alentejano). This grape, Wine & Soul 2018 Pintas Porto Vintage Port. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 normally found in the Douro, makes a perfumed 94 The Port has great fruits that envelope appearance in the Alentejo. The wine’s ripe tan- the tannins and give it richness. There is plenty of Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2017 Bridão nins give density while bringing out red fruits and a structure and obvious aging potential, but there are 87 Merlot (Tejo). Lightly tannic and with jammy fresh edge. Sourced from two parcels, the wine will also the swathes of perfumed black fruits and dense red fruits, the wine is soft, open and ready to drink. be ready from 2023. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. black-prune and plum flavors. The wine will age for The acidity gives the wine the freshness and under- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 many years, do not touch before 2029. Winebow. lines the fruitiness. Wine Enterprises LLC. Best Cellar Selection. —R.V. Buy. —R.V. Companhia das Quintas 2019 Portal da abv: 20% Price: $110 abv: 14% Price: $7 86 Vinha (Alentejano). This fresh and fruity wine is lightly touched by wood and sports vibrant, Quinta das Carvalhas NV 30 Year Old Tawny Fiuza 2019 Silent Oak (Tejo). The wine is youthful red fruits. It is immediately attractive and 93 Port. With the maturity of this fine wine has 86 all about bright red-berry fruits. Juicy and immediately drinkable—a wine packed with fruiti- come wisdom without wrinkles. The Port has a vel- touched with mint and spice, the wine has a light ness and a light texture. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. vet texture that just slips by—the dried fruits offer core of tannins. Drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 a glimpse through the wine’s maturity. Drink this abv: 13.5% Price: $15 wine now. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $120 Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2017 Bridão OTHER RED WINES 85 Syrah (Tejo). This earthy wine has tannins as Real Companhia Velha 2018 Síbio Vintage well as black fruits. The wine’s structure is perhaps Valle Pradinhos 2018 Reserva (Trás-os-­ 93 Port. This hard-to-reach quinta in a side too prominent at this stage, masking the red-fruit 93 Montes). From the far northeast of Portugal, valley from the Douro has produced a rich, sweet, flavors. Drink now. Wine Enterprises LLC.Best Buy. north of the Douro Valley, this wine is full bodied, deliciously luxurious Vintage Port. Dense and with —R.V. packed with blackberry fruits and has the structure luscious black fruits and blackberry-jam flavors, the abv: 14% Price: $7 to allow it to age. A blend that includes 50 percent wine also has the necessary structure and tannins to Cabernet Sauvignon gives tannins, structured fruit- allow it to age. The wine, produced from old vines, iness and aging potential. Drink from 2023. Vintage should be ready from 2030. Vinofiamma. —R.V. ALENTEJANO Wine Marketing. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $70 abv: 14.5% Price: $21 Luis Duarte 2017 Rubrica (Alentejano). For Broadbent NV Tawny Porto 20 Years Port. 95 full review see page 5. Companhia das Quintas 2017 Barão de 92 The style encapsulates a fine, aged tawny, abv: 14.5% Price: $50 87 Figueira Reserva (Beira Interior). From a showing rich concentration as well as a touch of vineyard created by a maybe real, maybe legendary spirit and luscious sweetness. The acidity gives the Monte da Ravasqueira 2017 Ravasqueira baron, Barão de Figueira, this wine is fresh and full wine a lightly medicinal character as well as nec- 94 Premium­ (Alentejano). This is an impres- of red fruits with bright acidity. It is ready to drink. essary freshness. This is a delicious wine, ready to sive wine, perfumed from wood aging and with ­Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. drink now. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —R.V. powerful dark fruits and densely rich textures. The abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 19.5% Price: $54/500 ml wine is just beginning, still packed with tannins. The wine’s future is assured. Drink from 2023. LGL Quinta das Carvalhas 2016 Late Bottled Imports LLC. —R.V. PORT 92 Vintage­ Port. For full review see page 11. abv: 14% Price: $50 abv: 20% Price: $20 Quinta das Carvalhas NV 20 Year Old Tawny Luis Duarte 2018 Rapariga da Quinta Reserva 94 Port. For full review see page 7. Real Companhia Velha 2018 Vintage Port. 93 (Alentejano). For full review see page 9. abv: 20% Price: $60 92 A blend across different vineyards, this abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Port is dense, darkly textured and with firm tan- Quinta das Carvalhas NV 40 Year Old Tawny nins. Its smoky fruit and edge of sweetness are bal- 94 Port. Dense, rich and so concentrated, this anced by the dry core that demands aging. This is a

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BUYINGGUIDE fine Vintage, ready to drink from 2029. Metrowine Delaforce 2016 Late Bottled Vintage Port. accompanied by a grassy side note. Green melon and Distribution. —R.V. 88 This is a Port that has matured well to give banana-like flavors rise up on the finish. Grapes of abv: 20% Price: $70 a fine poise between maturity and perfumed fruiti- Spain. —M.S. ness. With raisin and prune flavors alongside the abv: 13% Price: $18 Broadbent NV Auction Reserve Port. Celebrat- wood aging, the wine is rich and on the dry side for 91 ing the life of the legendary and an LBV. Drink now. Signature Imports. —R.V. auctioneer Michael Broadbent, this rich, fruit-­ abv: 20% Price: $20 driven and finely textured Port is impressive. On the dry side and with plenty of dried fruit flavors, Real Companhia Velha 2016 Síbio Late Talai Berri 2018 Oreka Hondarrabi Zuri (Getar- this is a great example of a Reserve Port. Drink now. 88 ­Bottled Vintage Port. This is a dry style of 87 iako Txakolina). Aromas of golden delicious Broadbent Selections, Inc. —R.V. Port, rich in tannins and with a fresh edge of red apple include a funky, sweaty hint of chicken soup. abv: 19.5% Price: $28 fruits. The spirit shows in the burnt edge and that A light-bodied palate is mildly spritzy, while this needs to integrate. But the wine could develop, so Txakoli is classic in style, with salty flavors of tart Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 2014 drink this from 2022. Vinofiamma. —R.V. apple and gooseberry. A cleansing finish is scouring 91 Late Bottled Vintage Port. Showing just the abv: 20% Price: $22 and mostly fresh. Drink now. Domaines and Appela- right amount of aging, but with the potential for tions. —M.S. more, this Port brings dried fruits and fresher dam- Wine & Soul NV Manoella Tawny Finest abv: 11% Price: $19 son flavors into a satisfyingly rich combination. 88 Reserve­ Port. Wood aged and smoothly tex- The wine is full, ripe, generous and softly textured. tured, this is a ripe, dried fruit and spicy wine. It is Alleme 2018 Getariako Txakolina. Lightly It is ready to drink now and until 2028. Terroir rich while having a light touch of acidity. Drink now. 86 oxidized aromas of apple cider, brioche and Selections.­ —R.V. Winebow. —R.V. butterscotch open this round-bodied but highly abv: 19.5% Price: $34 abv: 19.5% Price: $50 malic Txakoli. Mild flavors of wheat bread and orange are just vital enough, while closing notes of Broadbent NV Tawny Porto 10 Years Port. oxidation and dried apple make for a waxy finish. 90 Like all good 10-year-old tawnies, this Port SPAIN Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. strikes a fine balance between fruit and wood aging, abv: 12% Price: $22 so it still has freshness from the red fruits. This WHITE WINES contrasts with the wine’s spice, wood-aging flavors K5 Argiñano 2018 K Pilota Sobre Lías Hond- and intensity. Drink now. Broadbent Selections, Inc. RÍAS BAIXAS 86 arrabi Zuri (Getariako Txakolina). Briny aro- —R.V. mas of seashell turn more intense and funky as this abv: 19.5% Price: $18/500 ml Pazo de Rubianes 2019 1411 Albariño (Rías lees-aged Txakoli sits. This highly particular Basque 90 Baixas). Elegant aromas of lemon-lime and white is shallow in depth despite there being round- Quinta das Carvalhas NV 10 Year Old Tawny wet stone are crystalline and set up a fresh palate ness to the palate. Tangy orange and tangerine fla- 90 Port. For a 10-year-old Port, this is impres- that’s smooth and easy as well as vital. Apple, melon vors are briny and finish with a jolt of citric acidity. sively mature, showing plenty of wood-aging flavors and white pepper flavors fade little by little on a Classical Wines. —M.S. that have fully embraced the more youthful fruiti- healthy finish. Misa Imports. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $22 ness. Sweet and with hints of caramel, this is a fine, abv: 13.5% Price: $40 ripe Port to be drunk now. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Hiruzta 2018 Berezia Hondarrabi Zuri (Getar- abv: 20% Price: $30 Don Olegario 2019 Albariño (Rías Baixas). A 84 iako Txakolina). Briny apple aromas control 89 mellow nose offers aromas of pound cake, a muddled nose, while this no-spritz Txakoli feels Delaforce 2018 Vintage Port. This small- apple, melon and lemon. A round palate is braced soft and rather flat. Flavors of green grape skins, 89 production Vintage Port from an old-vine by sound acidity, while flavors of apple cider, lemon underripe pear, wax bean and carrot finish with- field blend is ripe, with dark fruits and dense tan- and sea brine fade quickly on a finish that leaves a out much lift or energy. Grape Expectations (CA). nins. It has plenty of the structure needed for aging minerally aftertaste. Kobrand. —M.S. —M.S. although this is not for decades but rather years. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $25 There is already a fine balance here: black fruits with sweetness contrasting with wood and acidity. Noelia Bebelia 2019 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Drink from 2028. Signature Imports. —R.V. 88 Aromas of lime, pine sap and pineapple are RUEDA abv: 20% Price: $70 punchy in front of a lively palate driven by the tang of citric acidity. Tangerine and white pineapple fla- Palacio de Bornos 2019 (Rueda). Real Companhia Velha 2016 Royal Oporto vors play out on a stony finish that tastes ever so 88 Fresh and fairly light and airy on the nose, 89 Late Bottled Vintage Port. Foot trodden slightly chemical. Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. this Verdejo is clean and easygoing on the palate, in open lagars, this is a generous Port. It has an —M.S. with kiwi, green apple and pineapple flavors. A open texture, neatly sustained by the tannins but abv: 14% Price: $25 refreshingly light finish is both pure and cleansing. ­certainly ready to drink. Red-berry flavors are gen- Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. erously partnered with spice and a luscious sweet- Mar de Frades 2019 Albariño (Rías Baixas). abv: 13.5% Price: $18 ness. Drink now. Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. 87 A yellowish color and briny aromas of apple abv: 20% Price: $20 and pineapple lead to a chunky palate that’s cidery Protos 2019 Verdejo (Rueda). Tangerine, in feel and high in malic acid. Flavors of passion 88 green apple and stone fruit aromas include Real Companhia Velha 2010 Royal Oporto fruit and lemon are a bit wayward in front of a cit- a yeasty whiff of sourdough bread. This everyday 89 Colheita Port. As a vintage tawny goes, this rusy finish. Zamora Company USA. —M.S. Verdejo sports a medium body braced by crisp acid- is young. It has preserved plenty of fruit, and shows abv: 12.5% Price: $27 ity, while flavors of green melon and peach pit are raisin and dark-plum flavors alongside touches of slightly bitter and salty. Monsieur Touton Selection spice and sweetness from wood aging. The wine is, Adegas Gran Vinum 2019 Mar de Viñas Ltd. —M.S. of course, ready to drink. Metrowine Distribution. 86 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Yeasty apple aro- abv: 13% Price: $14 —R.V. mas come with hints of compost and funk. This abv: 20% Price: $20 feels round and pulpy, with melon and peach flavors

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Bodegas Caserío de Dueñas 2019 Superior and honey finish round and weighty, with acidic cut. peach flavors become lightly oxidized on a slightly 87 Verdejo (Rueda). Slightly mealy apple aro- Europvin USA. —M.S. bitter finish. Aviva Vino.Best Buy. —M.S. mas are not the most fresh and pristine, while this abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 12.5% Price: $10 feels round and chunky, with acidic offset. Salty apple and green melon flavors finish with some Godelia 2019 Godello (Bierzo). Briny apple Campo Viejo 2019 Crisp & Elegant Rosé length due to the wine’s core acidity. Torgar Group. 87 and citrus aromas are a bit sketchy, while 85 (Spain). A neutral nose is the opening act —M.S. this Godello is highly citric on the palate, with sharp to a bland, obtuse palate. Bitter grape-skin flavors abv: 13.5% Price: $19 acidity and not much body. Tart clementine and are backed by hints of cantaloupe and peach. This is lemony flavors are crisp and show some of Bierzo’s competently fresh but lacks character and depth on Cuatro Rayas 2019 Caballito de Mar Verdejo patented slate character, while a lean finish is tangy the finish. Pernod Ricard. —M.S. 85 (Rueda). Yeasty apple and haystack aromas as well as mildly bitter. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA are briny and a touch muddled. A simple palate abv: 13.5% Price: $20 offers basic apple and green grape flavors that finish 2019 Merlot Rosado (Navarra). This slightly bitter and dilute, with a pop of lasting acid- Bat Gara 2018 Urtaran Cuvée (Txakoli de 85 rosé of Merlot is translucent red in color, ity. Vinaio Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. 86 Álava). This barrel-fermented Txakoli with candied red fruit and red apple flavors offset abv: 13% Price: $10 smells of spent yeast, vanilla, oxidized apple and by notes of lettuce and grass. A weighty palate deals oak grain. The palate is round and soft, with just slightly bitter and dull strawberry and raspberry enough acidity to keep things afloat. A heavily oxi- flavors, and a sucking candy sweetness comes up on OTHER WHITE WINES dative character dominates this unusual example; the finish. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. proceed with caution, as this is only for fans of oxi- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Alma das Donas 2019 Almalarga Godello dized white wines. Vintage Wine Marketing. —M.S. 91 (Ribeira Sacra). An aromatic mix of yellow abv: 13% Price: $38 Pago del Vicario 2019 Rubi Edition Petit Ver- apple, wet river rocks and lemon verbena com- 84 dot Rosado ( de Castilla). prise a nose that’s right on for Godello from Ribeira A red color and yeasty aromas of sourdough bread Sacra. A round palate with bracing acidity is healthy ROSADOS open this Petit Verdot rosé. A lazy palate is medium in feel, while this tastes of apple and minerals. A in weight and short on kick and zest. Flavors of red pure and lasting finish is clean and crisp. Drink now. La Maldita 2019 Garnacha Rosé (Rioja). This apple skins and cherry struggle to make a mark on Misa Imports. —M.S. 88 rosé starts off clean and stony on the nose a sleepy finish. City Moonlight Wines and Liquors. abv: 12.5% Price: $40 then turns lively and citric on the palate. Salt and —M.S. citrus juice flavors carry it along, while a lemon peel abv: 15% Price: $30 Avancia 2019 Old Vines Godello (Valdeorras). note marks the steady finish. Guarachi Wine Part- 91 For full review see page 13. ners. —M.S. Radio Boka 2019 Rosé (Vino de la Tierra de abv: 14.1% Price: $34 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 84 Castilla). Melon and peach aromas are mild, while this offers a pop of citrusy acidity on an other- Pazo de Toubes 2019 Tamborá Godello Ramirez de la Piscina 2019 Rosado (Rioja). A wise bland palate. Flavors of orange, nectarine and 89 (Ribeiro). Briny apple, citrus and hay aro- 88 light tan color and melony aromas touched cantaloupe are shy, while this falls flat on the finish. mas lead to a full and round palate with modest up by a note of honey open this claret style rosé MHW, Ltd. —M.S. acidity that suggests “drink now.” Flavors of apple, that’s made from 75% white Viura and 25% red abv: 12.5% Price: $10 honeydew, green banana and white pepper hold Garnacha. A fresh, pinchy palate comes with citric steady on a finish with mild grape-skin bitterness. acidity and flavors of tangerine and apple that hint W. Direct. —M.S. at bitterness on a solid finish. Jorge Ordóñez Selec- SPAIN abv: 13% Price: $29 tions. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11 RED WINES Silva Daponte 2019 Godello (Monterrei). 89 Dusty, yeasty apple and vanilla aromas set Bodegas Faustino 2019 VII Rosé (Rioja). up a round palate that’s mostly pure and reflective 87 A rusty deep-orange color and aromas of of very good Galician Godello. Yellow apple and stone fruits, carrot juice and yeasty vanilla lead Bodegas y Viñedos Tábula 2018 Damana peach flavors are slightly minerally, while this is to a medium-to-full palate that’s flush and plump 90 5 (Ribera del Duero). Cherry, cassis and clean on the finish, with nothing unwelcome. Table by rosé standards. Nonspecific citrus and generic blackberry aromas are standard for Ribera del 31 Imports. —M.S. melon flavors turn slightly bitter on a chunky finish. Duero but score points for being undemanding and abv: 13% Price: $23 Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. clean. A tightly wound palate is full but not heavy, abv: 13.5% Price: $15 and blackberry and earthy black plum flavors finish Bat Gara 2018 Uno (Txakoli de Álava). Aro- warm, round and pleasant. For a large-production 88 mas of sourdough bread include notes of Ramón Bilbao 2019 Rosado (Rioja). A tan wine from a marginal year, this is impressive. Las pear and apple. This lees-aged Txakoli feels full 86 color is backed by aromas of cantaloupe Arribes LLC. —M.S. and round, with citric acidity providing lift. Briny and petrol. This light-bodied rosé is crisp in feel and abv: 14% Price: $18 apple and green-herb flavors are limited, while this superficial, not deep. Dried apricot and underripe expands a bit on a medium-weight finish. Drink melon flavors sway toward bitter prior to an easy Bodegas Gormaz 2018 12 Linajes (Ribera now. Vintage Wine Marketing. —M.S. finish. Zamora Company USA. —M.S. 87 del Duero). Candied cherry and raspberry abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 aromas are backed by a palate that’s fresh on first impression then more jammy and simple as this airs Belondrade 2019 Quinta Apolonia Verdejo Bodegas Luzón 2019 Colección Monastrell out. Cherry, plum and berry flavors are friendly but 88 (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). Cidery 85 Rosado (Jumilla). Bland but clean stone generic, while this feels jammy on the finish. Clas- aromas of apple and pear include a yeasty note and fruit aromas are basic, while this feels narrow and sical Wines. —M.S. tropical hints. This feels fairly full and pulpy for tight. Salty cantaloupe and generic nectarine and abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Verdejo, while flavors of golden apple, citrus fruits

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BUYINGGUIDE

Portia 2018 Roble (Ribera del Duero). Rub- palate that’s slightly choppy and prodding. Woody and tastes lightly spiced. The future is now for this. 84 bery aromas suggest new tires. A sticky, barrel spice and vanilla notes accompany plum, cas- Drink through 2023. Arano LLC. —M.S. resiny palate tastes heavily worked, with vanilla sis and cinnamon flavors, while this warm-vintage abv: 13.5% Price: $42 oak flavors running wild. A woody, grainy finish reserva that spent two years in French oak feels includes a can’t-miss green note. Pacific Highway strapping and shows nice length on the finish. Drink Bodegas Olarra 2017 Cerro Añon Crianza Wines & Spirits. —M.S. through 2028. W. Direct. —M.S. 90 (Rioja). Berry and plum aromas are lightly abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $49 spiced and show a touch of baby powder. On the palate, this is bright and juicy, with chalky tannins. Bodegas LAN 2017 Crianza D-12 (Rioja). A Spicy berry and plum flavors are aided by a touch of RIOJA 92 dark color and ripe aromas of blackberry, charred oak, while this is toasty, dark and chocolaty prune, lemony oak and graphite get this crianza tasting on the finish. Drink through 2023. Classic Gómez de Segura 2015 Finca Ratón Reserva off to a serious start. A concentrated palate feel Wines, Inc. —M.S. 94 (Rioja). Blackberry, prune, cinnamon and is juiced up by bright acidity, while this tastes of abv: 14.5% Price: $16 chocolate aromas lead to a lush, wide-bodied pal- wild berry fruits topped with chocolaty oak. Drink ate that spreads out with comfort and class. Black- this smooth operator through 2025. Bodegas LAN. Gómez de Segura 2017 Crianza (Rioja). berry, chocolate and coffee are the key flavors on —M.S. 90 Blackberry, cassis and jammy blueberry this warm-year single-vineyard reserva. Richness abv: 13% Price: $20 aromas include hints of vanilla and nutmeg. On and chocolaty depth carry over to the finish. Drink the palate, this feels fleshy and grabby. Wild berry, through 2028. W. Direct. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Contino 2017 Viña del Olivo (Rioja). Cool herbal plum and dry brush flavors lead to a finish abv: 14% Price: $55 92 herbal notes atop berry fruit aromas lend a with clinging tannins. W. Direct. —M.S. spicy, mildly green essence to the nose. The palate abv: NA Price: $28 San Vicente 2015 Rioja. Lightly baked black on this single-vineyard Rioja is a bit wiry and acidic, 94 fruit aromas are oaky and powerful, while but that also means that this feels fresh and juicy. Marqués de Riscal 2015 Reserva (Rioja). For this feels dry, firm, tannic and well structured for Tangy plum, currant, tomato and berry flavors are 90 full review see page 18. a warm-year Rioja. Lush berry, black currant and backed by spicy oak and licorice notes, while this abv: 14.5% Price: $19 dried beef flavors come with plenty of oak, while stays fresh on an acidity-driven finish that guar- tannic pinch and dryness anchor a full-sized finish antees a long life. Drink through 2034. Arano LLC. Ramón Bilbao 2015 Reserva (Rioja). For full with oaky spice. Drink through 2034. Jorge Ordóñez —M.S. 90 review see page 18. Selections. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $145 abv: 14.5% Price: $27 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA CVNE 2014 Imperial Gran Reserva (Rioja). Alonso López 2017 Crianza (Rioja). A com- Bodegas LAN 2017 A Mano Edición Limitada 92 Rooty, reedy aromas of licorice and fennel 89 pact nose smells of bacon and rubbery black 93 (Rioja). Oaky scents of vanilla and cream blend with oak grain and spiced berry and cherry fruits, while this feels gravelly and sticky due to enrich an herbal nose that sports a note of euca- scents to form a welcoming nose. The palate on this pronounced tannins. Roasted berry and barbecued lyptus along with black fruit aromas. On the pal- gran reserva from a difficult year feels lean and lin- flavors of pork ribs, baked beans and oak spice fin- ate, this is flush and smooth, but kind of soft and ear, with raw acidity. Plum, currant and vanilla oak ish dry and clamping. Misa Imports. —M.S. creamy. Vanilla, coffee, tobacco and wood spice flavors turn dry, tight, snappy and a touch tart on abv: 14.5% Price: $35 flavors blend with ripe blackberry and black plum the finish. Drink through 2032. Arano LLC. —M.S. notes, while this is generously oaked and thus tastes abv: 13.5% Price: $92 Bodegas LAN 2017 Xtrème Crianza Made chocolaty on the finish. Drink through 2028. Bode- 89 With Organic Grapes (Rioja). A ripe and for- gas LAN. —M.S. Bodegas Olarra 2017 Reciente Crianza (Rioja). ward nose leans heavily on balsamic plum and berry abv: 14% Price: $55 91 Smoky, tarry aromas blend with wild berry aromas with oaky support. A wide and full palate and cured beef scents, while this crianza is medium is a touch flat and heavy, while this tastes of fully Bodegas Tobía 2014 Óscar Tobía Gran Reserva in body with zesty acidity that creates a racy pal- toasted oak, black cherry, dark plum and raisin. Dry 93 (Rioja). Foresty berry and spiced black ate feel. Flavors of plum and tomato sauce dwell on tannins and oak rule the back end of this rich and cherry aromas blend with notes of dried fruits and the savory side, while this is composed and fresh figgy crianza. Bodegas LAN. —M.S. pipe tobacco. A supple palate is full and resolute but on the finish. Drink through 2023. Classic Wines, abv: 14% Price: $20 charming, with smooth tannins and a welcome pop Inc. —M.S. of lively acidity. Integrated flavors of plum, currant abv: 14.5% Price: $16 Bodegas Ugalde 2017 Crianza (Rioja). Plum and peppery spice are supported by creamy vanilla 89 and raspberry aromas show a spot of lem- oak through the finish. Drink through 2031. Tri-Vin Bodegas Tobía 2017 Viñedos de Altura (Rioja). ony oak in front of a lively palate bolstered by juicy Imports. —M.S. 91 Prickly aromas of pine needle and summer acidity. Cherry, raspberry and currant flavors come abv: 14.5% Price: $50 herbs provide sharp accents to an otherwise earthy with hints of green peppercorn and green herbs, nose with tobacco and spicy berry fruit scents. while light spice notes are spread across the finish. Gómez de Segura 2015 Reserva (Rioja). While this feels plump and full, the tannins are edgy 4Front Imports, LLC. —M.S. 93 Befitting a warm vintage like 2015, this and rubbing. Blackberry, chocolate, coffee and oaky abv: 14% Price: $18 reserva smells of ripe blackberry, prune, spice cake flavors of vanilla and spice finish with tobacco notes and cedary oak. The palate is stout and balanced, and a touch of heat. Drink through 2030. Tri-Vin Contino 2014 Gran Reserva (Rioja). Raisin with pulpy weight offset by healthy acidity. Black- Imports. —M.S. 89 and cassis aromas range from fully ripe to berry, cassis, cola and oaky flavors finish long and abv: 14.5% Price: $50 overripe, while this is baked and a touch flabby in smooth. Enjoy through 2027. W. Direct. —M.S. feel, with moderate to low acidity. Dried berry, plum abv: 14% Price: $42 CVNE 2014 Cune Gran Reserva (Rioja). and cassis flavors land on raisin and prune, indicat- 91 Woodsy raspberry and currant aromas are ing that finding balance was a challenge in 2014. Señorío de Villarrica 2015 Reserva (Rioja). dry and distant, while this gran reserva from a diffi- Desiccation on the finish brings this gran reserva 93 Nicely perfumed aromas of purple flowers, cult vintage feels solid and gets the job done. Toast, back to raisiny. Drink through 2023. Arano LLC. dark berry fruits, tobacco and mountain brush are coffee and wood spice notes accent raspberry and —M.S. highly appealing and set the stage for a full and lively plum flavors, while a steady finish is dry feeling abv: 13.5% Price: $68

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Kirkland Signature 2016 Reserva (Rioja). For grabby and blocky, not sleek. Flavors of marshmal- soupy in feel, without much verve or bounce to the 89 full review see page 21. Best Buy. low, milk chocolate and baked plum finish full but palate. Minty blueberry and cassis flavors border abv: 13.5% Price: $7 sticky. Finesse and flow are not part of the package on syrupy, while this is thick and sticky on a finish on this imperfect wine from a drought year. Axial that’s not uncommon for Monastrell. Kysela Père et Ramón Bilbao 2016 Limited Edition (Rioja). Vinos USA. —M.S. Fils. —M.S. 89 Ripe berry aromas are a touch jammy and abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $17 include hints of vanilla and spiced beef. The palate on this barrel-select Rioja is compact in feel, while Viña Eguía 2015 Reserva (Rioja). For full Crápula 2019 Cr Gold 5 Monastrell-Syrah plum and currant flavors are aided by conventional 88 review see page 19. 85 (Jumilla). Aromas of raisin and prune are oak spice. Light oak and related cinnamon and spice abv: 13.5% Price: $19 dense and stewy, while this blend of Monastrell and notes hang around on a mild finish. Zamora Com- Syrah feels thick and sappy, with raisiny desicca- pany USA. —M.S. Bodegas Ondarre 2016 Primeur (Rioja). tion. Prune, raisin, fig and chocolate flavors fail to abv: 14% Price: $19 87 Earthy red berry aromas show a touch of shed an overripe character on a baked and heavy spice while leading to a hard-hitting palate that’s finish. Misa Imports. —M.S. Vivanco 2017 Crianza Selección de Familia narrow and aggressive. Plum, currant and vanilla abv: 14.5% Price: $35 89 (Rioja). Scratchy red plum and currant aro- flavors are common for Rioja, while this is dry and mas set up a palate with gravelly tannins that cause kicking on the finish. Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. Bodegas Luzón 2019 Colección Roble Monas- moderate roughness. Plum, cherry and tomato sauce abv: 14.5% Price: $18 83 trell (Jumilla). A flat and stewy nose smells flavors come with a touch of wood spice, while this mostly like clove, while this Monastrell feels jammy is fresh and lively on a racy finish. Drink through and syrupy. Outright flavors of clove and nutmeg 2022. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. PRIORAT overwhelm any natural fruit character this might abv: 14.5% Price: $20 offer, while the finish deals more of the same. Aviva Cellers Unió 2018 Tendral Selecció (Priorat). Vino. —M.S. Bodegas Ondarre 2016 Señorio de Ondarre 92 Snappy plum and berry aromas include a abv: 14.5% Price: $11 88 Reserva (Rioja). Lemony oak and wood classic Priorat note of schisty minerality that sug- grain aromas are upfront on this barrel-driven Rioja gests dried blood. A racy palate settles on juicy reserva. A tight palate is drawing and tannic, while brightness, while this blend of Garnacha and Cari- OTHER RED WINES this emphasizes woody flavors and related spice gnan tastes of raspberry, red plum, red currant, more than fruit character. Fittingly, this tastes cured beef and iron. A steady finish closes this out. Arínzano 2014 Gran Vino Tempranillo (Pago lightly woody on a lighter-weight finish. Classic Drink through 2023. Monsieur Touton Selection 92 de Arínzano). Blackberry and prune aromas Wines, Inc. —M.S. Ltd. —M.S. are backed by cheesy oak and vanilla notes as well as abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 hints of tobacco and cedar. A deep palate is concen- trated and showing proper balance, while this Pago- Luxus One 2017 Crianza Singular Wine Bon Mas 2018 Priorat. Cheesy vanilla oak aro- specific Navarran Tempranillo tastes of blackberry, 88 (Rioja). Saucy barbecued aromas lead a 91 mas sit atop earthy plum, cherry and prune wood spice and bacon. A jammy finish is thick and nose with reedy green hints, earthy plum scents scents, while this feels both tight and fleshy, but somewhat creamy in texture. Drink through 2026. and raisiny overtones. A flush palate is rough and inexact. Black cherry, baked plum, prune and choco- Stoli Group USA. —M.S. edgy, while this crianza tastes of baked plum and late flavors finish with a raisiny hint of dried black abv: 14.5% Price: $95 raisin prior to a finish with marinated beefy notes fruits. Drink through 2023. Misa Imports. —M.S. and residual oak. Arco Globus International. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $40 Potente 2018 Montsant. Plum, berry and abv: 14% Price: $17 92 prune aromas are on the cusp of smelling Clos de Tafall 2018 Priorat. Black cherry, dark baked and cooked but airing allows for expansion Marqués de Riscal 2017 Arienzo Crianza 91 plum and animal aromas include hints of and the emergence of iron and schist notes. A full 88 (Rioja). For full review see page 21. Best dried blood and iron-rich schist. A stout palate is and round palate qualifies as dense, while this Gar- Buy. flush and full, with flavors of black cherry, plum, fig nacha blend deals cassis, dark plum and chocolaty abv: 14.5% Price: $10 and chocolaty oak. A warm finish with baked berry flavors in front of a composed but chunky finish. and cocoa flavors is generous but low on complex- Drink through 2023. Misa Imports. —M.S. Marqués de Riscal 2016 Finca Torrea (Rioja). ity. Drink through 2022. Vinamericas Selections. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 88 Initial aromas of raisin and spice cake —M.S. match a dark color and suggest full ripeness. Fol- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 De Haan Altés 2018 Lo Patinet Organically lowing that lead, this is plump in feel, with mild 89 Grown Grapes (Montsant). Soft black fruit tannic rub. Slightly baked berry flavors ease into a aromas are baked and pruny, with a touch of road finish with mild heat and a raisiny aftertaste. Shaw- JUMILLA tar thrown in. Smacking tannins create a grabby Ross International Importers. —M.S. palate feel, while slightly stalky plum and black- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Crápula 2018 CR Soul Monastrell (Jumilla). berry flavors end with tannic rub. 4Front Imports, 87 Sappy berry and cassis aromas are a touch LLC. —M.S. Proelio 2017 Crianza (Rioja). Aromas of green and crowded by milk chocolate oak notes. abv: 15% Price: $30 88 warm tar and earthy black plum set up a A thick and dense palate is enlivened by tartaric full palate that’s wide in scope. Oaky flavors of clove acidity, while this tastes of plum, berry fruits Príncipe de Viana 2015 Reserva Tempranillo and mint accent herbal plum and berry fruit notes, and creamy oak. A sticky finish feels chunky and 89 (Navarra). Reedy currant and raspberry while this doesn’t change much on a finish with weighty. Misa Imports. —M.S. aromas are a bit sharp and hint at green, while the tannic rawness. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 palate is fuller almost to the point of creamy. Herbal abv: 14% Price: $16 notes of mint and thyme accompany red plum and Bodegas San Dionisio 2018 Toza Monas- cherry flavors. On the finish, punchy acidity, lin- Vallobera 2017 Terran de Vallobera (Rioja). 86 trell (Jumilla). Aggressive aromas of berry gering green hints and mild oaky vanilla combine 88 Creamy oak-driven aromas of vanilla and fruits are fiery, slightly green and suggestive of wet forces. Sybarite Global LLC. —M.S. milk chocolate open this plump Rioja that feels cement. Conversely, this Monastrell is bulky and abv: 14% Price: $22

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Jorge Ordóñez & Co. 2018 Triton Old Vines by popping acidity. Drink through 2030. Grapes of green-fruit flavors that gain richness from hints 88 (Toro). Friendly berry and cassis aromas are Spain. —M.S. of tropical fruits in the background. Wood aging balsamic and baked, with a note of molasses. This abv: 18% Price: $36 weaves its smoothing magic to give a wine with ripe and beefy Toro is creamy in feel, with sticky complexity and richness that will age. Drink from tannins. Roasted berry, cassis and chocolaty oak fla- Bodegas y Viñedos Diez Merito NV Pemartín 2023. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. vors finish short and woody. Jorge Ordóñez Selec- 89 Amontillado (Jerez). A cloudy brown color abv: 13.5% Price: $65 tions. —M.S. and earthy aromas of raisin and sweat get this abv: 15% Price: $20 amontillado off to a sketchy start, but once this Château Couhins 2018 Pessac-Léognan. A hits the palate things seem to be in order. Flavors 94 great success for the estate, this crisp, tex- Clos de Lôm 2018 Monastrell (Valencia). of cocoa, roasted nuts and mushroom finish with a tured wine is packed with herbal and grassy flavors 86 Waxy, yeasty aromas of stone fruit pit, touch of burn and heat. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. from Sauvignon Blanc and attractive perfumes from carrot juice and petrol are lightly oxidized. On the abv: 18% Price: $24 Sauvignon Gris. The wine is going to age well. Drink palate, a bolt of sharp citric acidity is keeping this from 2023. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. mostly in balance. Oxidized flavors of tangerine and Herederos de Argüeso NV Amontillado 1822 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 nectarine finish with some bitterness. Jack Harvey 88 Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Jerez). A tawny Group LLC. —M.S. color with a twinge of orange along with sharp Domaine de Chevalier 2018 L’Esprit de Che- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 peanutty aromas are burning and intense. On the 94 valier (Pessac-Léognan). The ripe layer of palate, this is all about scouring acidity and the Sémillon in this wine gives richness, a creamed- Finca Anzil 2018 La Poda (Toro). A rus- tang and zest that it creates. Flavors of sour citrus apple character and plenty of aging potential. The 85 tic nose includes dark berry notes as well fruits, burnt nuts and cocoa finish dry as a bone second white wine of Domaine de Chevalier, it is as rubbery harshness. A raw and grabby palate is and chalky, with little richness or depth. Classical ripe, wood aged and generous in fruitiness. Drink tannic but doesn’t show much structure or depth. Wines. —M.S. the wine from 2023. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. Lightly green berry flavors are dunked in oak, while abv: 21.5% Price: $149 abv: 13.5% Price: $37 this tastes of clove and wood grain on the finish. HAB North America. —M.S. González Byass NV Viña AB 12 Años Amon- Château Bouscaut 2018 Pessac-Léognan. abv: 15% Price: $15 87 tillado Seco (Jerez). A burnished gold color 93 Rich, ageworthy Sémillon combines with along with cheesy aromas of ocean foam and oak set crisper Sauvignon Blanc in this satisfyingly ripe Gran Pasas 2018 Monastrell (Yecla). Stalky up an expansive but regular palate. Nutty caramel wine. Still young, it has a rich, full-bodied future 84 berry aromas are leathery, tomatoey and and rancio flavors show little to no complexity on that will keep the wine’s freshness in focus. Drink raw, while this Monastrell feels creamy, with grabby the finish. Gonzalez Byass USA. —M.S. from 2023. Joanne Bordeaux USA. —R.V. tannins. Flavors of green herbs, vanilla and oak abv: 16.5% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $45 grain finish jammy and thick. Hammeken Cellars USA. —M.S. Château Couhins 2018 La Gravette (Pessac- abv: 14% Price: $18 BORDEAUX 93 Léognan). There is young brightness to this attractive wine. Kiwi and green fruits go with layers WHITE WINES of tight acidity and a vibrant texture. The wine is SHERRY likely to develop well. Drink from 2022. Fruit of the PESSAC-LÉOGNAN Vines, Inc. —R.V. González Byass NV Del Duque Vinum Opti- abv: 14% Price: $25 93 mum Rare Signatum Amontillado (Jerez). Domaine de Chevalier 2018 Pessac-Léognan. A tawny color and deep, lush aromas of pecan pie, 97 One of the iconic white wines of Bordeaux, Château Lespault-Martillac 2018 Pessac- toasted almond and brown sugar open this stylish produced in small quantities, this is a powerful 93 Léognan. This richly endowed wine is full amontillado made from wines that went into barrel and rich expression of ripe Sauvignon Blanc. The of white stone fruits cut with gooseberry flavors. 30 years ago or longer. Toasty richness accompa- fruitiness, with its tropical hints, is enhanced by Spice and toastiness from wood aging are discreetly nies requisite flavors of almond and peanut, while the wine’s complexity, touches of spice and density. in the background offering a crisp edge to the ripe this is elegant and lasts for ages on the finish. Drink Drink this impressive wine from 2024. Multiple fruitiness. Drink this wine from 2022. Multiple U.S. through 2040. Gonzalez Byass USA. —M.S. U.S. importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. importers. —R.V. abv: 21.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $119 abv: 13.5% Price: $37

Lustau NV Almacenista Antonio Caballero Château de Fieuzal 2018 Pessac-Léognan. Château de Fieuzal 2018 L’Abeille de Fieuzal 92 y Sobrinos Amontillado del Castillo (Jerez). 96 This wine is rich, generously textured and 91 (Pessac-Léognan). The estate has made a This is tawny in color, with an intense nose that’s ripe. Acidity is comfortably integrated into the reputation for its white wines. This second wine nutty and suggests brown sugar, citrus and dried wine’s texture, offering hints of tropical fruits, taut reflects the equilibrium and ripeness of the top apricot. Prickly acidity is the driver of a racy palate minerality and a spicy and warm future. Drink from white while having a lighter, more instantly acces- with toasty flavors of roasted nuts, toffee, coffee and 2024. The Wine Trust. —R.V. sible character. With judicious wood aging, it will be cocoa. A long and aggressive finish shows some heat abv: 13.5% Price: $72 ready from 2022. The Wine Trust. —R.V. and fire. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $41 abv: 21.5% Price: $35/500 ml Château Carbonnieux 2018 Pessac-Léognan. 95 Always a success, the releases of whites Château Roche-Lalande 2019 Pessac-­ Bodegas y Viñedos Diez Merito NV Bertola from this estate continue with this tight, textured, 91 Léognan. This perfumed wine is full of trop- 91 Amontillado 12 Years Old (Jerez). A tawny wood-aged and ripe wine. It is still young, balancing ical-fruit flavors laced with acidity. Light touches color and mild but smooth aromas of roasted nuts between citrus and crisp acidity, with a texture that from wood aging have added nutmeg flavors to the and yeasty flor lead to a fresh and zingy palate with will open as the wine ages. Drink from 2023. —R.V. structured fruitiness. Developing well, the wine will bright acidity and a lean-to-medium body. Tart cit- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA show best from late 2021. —R.V. rus flavors are backed by nutty toffee notes, while abv: 13% Price: $50 this finishes long and steady, with length propelled Château Couhins-Lurton 2018 Pessac- 95 Léognan. This pure Sauvignon Blanc offers

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Domaine de la Solitude 2018 Pessac-Léognan. should be so fine. Subtly rich, with generous Château Rahoul 2019 . This wood- 91 The religious order that owns this vineyard white fruits, ripeness and concentration, the wine 90 aged wine has richness and a tight texture has entrusted the winemaking to Domaine de Che- is developing well. Drink from 2022. AP Wine that needs to soften. With its intense acidity and valier. The team there has produced a crisp, tight Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. perfumed, ripe herbal character, the wine needs Sauvignon Blanc-dominated wine. Offering flavors abv: 12.5% Price: $23 time. Drink from 2022. & Châteaux of green fruit and citrus, the wine has weight to go USA. —R.V. with that tangy character, giving it a fine future. It Château de Chantegrive 2019 Graves. This abv: 13.5% Price: $33 should be ready to drink from 2023. Multiple U.S. 91 full, generous wood-aged wine is full of white importers. —R.V. fruits, with a hint of pineapple and plenty of spice Château Saint-Robert 2019 Cuvée Poncet- abv: 13.5% Price: $31 and tangy acidity. The wine’s richness will see it age 90 Deville (Graves). This wood-aged wine well, so drink from 2022. Saranty Imports. —R.V. combines fresh minerality and a more tropical-fruit Château Bouscaut 2018 Les Chênes de Bous- abv: 13% Price: $20 aspect. It is still very young, but will develop into a 90 caut (Pessac-Léognan). While this wine balanced, fruity and textured wine worthy of aging. has an initial earthiness, that will go as it develops. Château de Portets 2019 Graves. This estate Drink from 2023. Organic. Advantage International. An herbal, green fruitiness is beginning to come 91 has produced a balanced, ripe and sophis- —R.V. through. With its freshness intact, the wine will be ticated wine. Acidity and texture go with the cit- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 ready from 2022. Joanne Bordeaux USA. —R.V. rus and spice flavors. Hints of tropical fruits come abv: 13.5% Price: $20 through at the end. Drink from late 2021. Som- Château de Cérons 2019 Graves. Light but mailier. —R.V. 89 well structured, this wine has ripe white Château Pont Saint-Martin 2019 Pessac-­ abv: 12.5% Price: $25 fruits, touches of white currants, plenty of herbal 89 Léognan. A smoothly textured, rounded acidity plus some spice. A toasty hint and texture wine, this offers fresh apple and citrus fruits. Light Château Ferrande 2019 Graves. Fresh, fruity give aging potential. Drink from 2022. Wineberry wood-aging flavors lift the fruitiness and give extra 91 and also toasty, this wine contrasts ripe green America LLC. —R.V. depth to this attractive wine. Drink from late 2021. fruits with white stone fruits. It has a zesty char- abv: 12.5% Price: $24 —R.V. acter, allied to the flavors of wood aging. The wine abv: 13% Price: $42 will come together well from 2022. Luneau USA Inc. Château des Places 2019 Agora (Graves). —R.V. 89 This wine is herbal and catty, with intense Château Latour-Martillac 2019 Lagrave- abv: 12.5% Price: $27 acidity. It needs to soften, open and integrate, but 88 Martillac (Pessac-Léognan). A blend of has good potential. A perfumed aftertaste makes an half-and-half Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, this Château Haut Selve 2019 Graves. This ripe, attractive finish. Drink from 2022. DHI Selections. wine shows a grassy, young character. This sec- 91 wood-aged wine brings together structure, —R.V. ond wine of Latour-Martillac, it has lightly herbal spice from toastiness and touches of white-peach abv: 13% Price: $38 green-fruits flavors, with a fresh, tangy aftertaste. and red-apple flavors. It is a well-judged wine offer- Drink from late 2021. Wine Source International. ing fruit and potential. Drink this ageworthy wine Château des Places 2019 Graves. This wine —R.V. from 2022. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. 89 is light on the texture but heavy on white abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 fruits, fresh acidity and open, accessible character. Drink this attractive wine now. DHI Selections. Château Pont de Brion 2019 Graves. This is —R.V. GRAVES 91 a soft, creamy and toasty wine, with a good abv: 12.5% Price: $29 proportion of Sémillon in the blend. Creamed-pear Château de Chantegrive 2019 Cuvée Caroline and apple flavors are smooth, rich with a fine tex- Château La Rose Sarron 2019 Graves. Ripe 92 (Graves). This well-structured wine offers ture. The wine is balanced and ready to drink from 89 with creamed apples while also freshened wood-aging flavors and a texture that is still tight 2022. Novovino Wine Company. —R.V. with crisp citrus flavors, this wine has an herbal and young. It has great potential, the ripe fruits abv: 13% Price: $22 edge. It needs a few months to bring itself together, and spicy flavors allied to the wine’s concentration. so drink from 2022. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. Drink from 2022. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Château de Beau-Site 2019 Graves. Lightly abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $30 90 spicy and rich, this wine has weight and a texture that demands some aging. Tangy green Vieux Château Gaubert 2019 Graves. This Château Lugaud 2019 Graves. This warm, fruits bring a fresh element to the wine. Drink from 89 young wine is packed with clean, perfumed 92 ripe and generous wine has a good balance 2022. —R.V. fruit. A light texture along with spice balances the between fresh citrus flavors and rich, spicy baked- abv: 13% Price: $25 fruitiness. The wine’s freshness and lively acidity apple fruits. With touches of toast attractively in will soon soften, so wait to drink until late 2021. DS place, the wine will age well. Drink from 2022. DHI Château de la Brède 2019 Graves. Hints of Trading Co. —R.V. Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 90 tropical fruit and toastiness from wood abv: 12.5% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $29 aging give this wine richness to contrast with the green-apple fruits and tangy lime flavors. The wine Château Calvimont 2019 Graves. Selected Château Trébiac 2019 Graves. This unusual needs to age, so wait to drink untll 2022. DS Trad- 88 parcels from the Château de Cérons estate 92 100% Sémillon shows excellent potential. ing Co. —R.V. have produced this warm, richly fruity and lightly The richness promises a full, creamy-textured and abv: 12.5% Price: $32 tangy wine. Lemon and kiwi flavors are fresh while white-fruit-flavored wine. Although the wine is rich enough to promise some aging. Drink this wine drinkable now, it would be a shame not to wait until Château du Seuil 2019 Graves. This well- from 2022. EU. Family Estates. —R.V. 2022. The Wine Company. Best Buy. —R.V. 90 structured, wood-aged wine is poised, with abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 13% Price: $15 good fruit and acidity. A light touch of spice part- ners with the tangy, lightly herbal flavors. Drink this Château Crabitey 2019 Graves. An easygo- Clos Floridène 2019 Graves. The late founder wine from 2022. Organic. DB Wine Selection. Edi- 88 ing and fresh wine, this brings out a crisp 92 Denis Dubourdieu was the master of white tors’ Choice. —R.V. texture of citrus as well as richer white stone fruits. wine in Bordeaux. So it is pleasing that this wine abv: 125% Price: $19

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The wine’s bright fruitiness and lively acidity are Château Ducasse 2018 Graves. An herbal acidity, the wine is ready to drink. Angel’s Share delicious. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. 87 wine with crisp lime and gooseberry fla- Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22 vors, this is tangy and needs a little time to soften. abv: 13% Price: $15 Drink this fruity wine from late 2021. Heritage Fine Château de Chantegrive 2019 Les Oiseaux Wines. —R.V. Marquis De Bern 2019 Graves. This simple 88 de Chantegrive La Purete (Graves). A ripe abv: 13% Price: $20 85 wine offers gentle fruits and a light tex- blend of half-and-half Sauvignon Blanc and Sémil- ture. It is easy, generous and ready to drink. Misa lon, this wine is tangy, packed with white stone Château Grand Abord 2019 Graves. This Imports. —R.V. fruits conveying a lightly herbal character. The bot- 87 smoothly textured wine has fresh lemon and abv: 13% Price: $26 tling is part of a series of wines contributing a por- tangerine flavors that are given texture by tangy tion of proceeds to creating bird sanctuaries. It is acidity and touches of spice. The wine is bright, fresh and ready to drink. Saranty Imports. —R.V. fruity and ready to drink. Imports. —R.V. BORDEAUX BLANC abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $28 Clos des Lunes 2018 Lune d’Or (Bordeaux Château Jouvente 2019 Graves. Fresh and Château la Fleur des Pins 2019 Graves. In 92 Blanc). This dry, wood-aged wine comes 88 crisp, this wine is packed with fruitiness 87 this aromatic wine, hints of tropical fruit from vineyards in the region. A touch and open acidity. It is gently textured but full of cit- contrast with the ripe citrus and tangy texture. The of honey comes through creamed-lemon and spice rus and apple flavors. Drink now. Amphorium LLC. wine will be ready during 2021. Sommailier. —R.V. flavors. Well structured and with aging potential, —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 the wine should be drunk from 2023. Multiple U.S. abv: 13% Price: $29 importers. —R.V. Château Lagrange 2019 Graves. A crisply abv: 13.5% Price: $66 Château le Bonnat 2019 Graves. Rich Sémil- 87 herbal wine, this is tangy, full of lemon zest 88 lon and a touch of perfumed Sauvignon Gris and tight acidity. Floral and fruity, the wine needs Château de Malherbes 2015 Bordeaux Blanc. are the keys to this wine’s refreshing, apple and kiwi a few months to soften. Drink from late 2021. DHI 90 The richness of Sémillon shows strongly flavors. It is a young, tangy wine, offering crispness Selections. —R.V. in this wine and has allowed it to age well. It has while also showing the potential for aging. Drink abv: 12.5% Price: $38 a yeasty character, shot through with lemon and from 2022. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. touches of honey. This complex wine is definitely abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Château Magneau 2019 Graves. This softly mature and should be drunk now. JP Bourgeois. 87 textured, perfumed wine is ready to drink. —R.V. Château Simon 2019 Graves. Bright and Fresh fruitiness and a slight tang of acidity give abv: 13.5% Price: $39 88 floral, with a crisp herbal edge, this wine immediate pleasure. Drink from late 2021. Wine is taut and textured. Flavors of white currants, tex- Traditions. —R.V. Le Nardian 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. This rich tured acidity and an edge of minerality will come abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 90 fruit salad of a wine offers all manner of together in the next few months. Drink from late tropical and citrus fruits combined with some wood 2021. Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. —R.V. Château Moutin 2019 Graves. Bright, crisp aging. The wine is opulent, with both freshness and abv: 13% Price: $18 87 and fruity, this wine is all about fresh and great richness. It will age but should be ready rela- tangy fruit. Citrus and herbalness come through tively quickly. Drink from 2022. World’s End LLC. Château Tour de Calens 2019 Graves. Fruity strongly, giving the wine a cool, green-fruit charac- —R.V. 88 and crisp, this wine offers citrus and herbal ter. Drink from late 2021. Elixirs du Monde. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 flavors that are filled out with tropical and ripe abv: 13% Price: $30 accents. It’s an attractive wine that is developing Producta Vignobles 2019 Grain de Lune (Bor- quickly. Drink from late 2021. The Wine List Inc. Château Coustaut 2019 Graves. This dense, 90 deaux Blanc). Sauvignon Gris is increas- —R.V. 86 full wine has perfumed white-currant fruits ingly recognized as an important part of a white abv: 12.5% Price: $22 alongside warm acidity. The wine is soft and ripe, Bordeaux blend. Here in its pure form it shows its fully textured and likely to be ready to drink from perfumed pedigree and juicy fruitiness. This wine Domaine du Salut 2019 Graves. Fresh and late 2021. David Bowler Wine. —R.V. is refreshing, tangy and ready to drink. Wine Circle 88 with attractive perfumed fruit, this wine abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. has a lift to it. Fresh citrus and white-apple fla- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 vors are enhanced by the wine’s spiciness and crisp Château de Castres 2019 Graves. With a aftertaste. Drink from late 2021. Grand Cru Selec- 86 soft, ripe texture and rounded corners, this Clos des Lunes 2018 Lune d’Argent (Bor- tions. —R.V. wine is already approaching drinkability. It is full in 89 deaux Blanc). One of a pair of dry wines abv: 12.5% Price: $18 the mouth, smoothed by pear and kiwi fruit. Drink produced by the Domaine de Chevalier team from now. —R.V. vines in the Sauternes region, this is bright and Château Boyrein 2019 Graves. This herbal abv: 13% Price: $30 fruity. With its generous citrus character and tangy 87 wine is full of tangy, zesty fruits. It is bright, texture, it is both ripe and fresh. The wine is just with a tight texture that will open out. Drink this Château Doms 2019 Graves. Softly tex- ready to drink. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. attractive wine from late 2021. Boivin Selections. 85 tured and with ripe fruits, this wine is abv: 13% Price: $22 —R.V. already developed. Green apple and kiwi flavors are abv: 13% Price: $25 accented by tangy citrus. The wine is ready to drink. Producta Vignobles 2019 L’Enigme (Bor- Misa Imports. —R.V. 88 deaux Blanc). Lightly wood aged, this wine Château du Mouret 2019 Medeville Collection abv: 13.5% Price: $20 is brightly fruity, just hinting at toastiness. Pineap- 87 (Graves). This grassy, herbal wine shows ple flavors contrast with the citrus cut of the fresh crisp citrus and zesty acidity. It is a young wine, full Château Mayne du Cros 2019 Landot Sauvignon Blanc. The wine has a few months to go of fruitiness while needing a few months to soften. 85 (Graves). This wine is soft, just lightly tex- yet, so drink from late 2021. Jandell Selections. Drink from late 2021. Shiverick Imports. —R.V. tured. With citrus and sliced-apple flavors lifted by —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 12% Price: $20

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Producta Vignobles 2018 Grain de Lune of the appellation are balanced by powerful black well-structured, black-currant fruits. With a slight 88 (Bordeaux Blanc). Predominantly perfumed fruits and smoky, wood-aging flavors. The 63% preponderance of Merlot, the blend still leaves Sauvignon Gris, this is a beautifully fresh wine. Its Cabernet Sauvignon is the key to the wine’s struc- room for the fine texture of Cabernet Sauvignon. crisp texture and lively acidity are enhanced by the ture and aging potential. Drink from 2025. Cham- Drink from 2023. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. wine’s aromatic nature and floral aftertaste. Drink pagnes & Châteaux USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 the wine now. Wine Circle Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $54 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Château Tour des Termes 2018 Cru Bourgeois Château Le Crock 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Saint- 91 (Saint-Estèphe). The Anney family, own- 94 Estèphe). The Cuvelier family of Léoville- ers of this estate, have been growers in the Médoc OTHER WHITE WINES Poyferré in Saint-Julien have given us a strongly since the 17th century. This wine, with rich tannins textured and rich wine from this property in Saint- and the typical structure of the appellation, is ripe, Château Cantelaudette 2019 Cuvée Pres- Estèphe. Its power and density will allow it to age packed with black-plum fruits and generous Merlot 90 tige (Graves de Vayres). This floral, fra- well. Drink this wine from 2025. K&L Wine Mer- richness. It is a wine to age, best left until 2024. grant wine, pure Sémillon, is ripe and creamy, with chants. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. touches of toastiness from wood aging. Kiwi fruit abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 acidity is balanced by hints of honey and white- peach freshness. The wine is still young and will be Château Lilian Ladouys 2018 Cru Bourgeois Château Haut Coteau 2017 Saint-Estèphe. better from 2022. Artisans & Vines. —R.V. 94 (Saint-Estèphe). Considerable renovation 89 Reflecting the comparative lightness of the abv: 13% Price: $22 work is beginning to pay off in the quality of this vintage, this wine has open blackberry fruits and latest vintage from this estate. The wine has depth, tannins that are just beginning to soften. It will Château de la Grave 2019 Grains Fins (Côtes concentration, dark-chocolate flavors, rich tannins develop into smooth wine as it matures. Drink from 89 de Bourg). A creamed-apple-flavored wine and equally rich blackberry fruits. With its high 2022. —R.V. with a generous texture and perfumed acidity, this percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon,the wine is set abv: 13.5% Price: $NA is immediately attractive. Acidity and fruitiness are for aging and will not be ready before 2025. Château balanced by the textured edge to give a wine that is Lilian Ladouys. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château la Commanderie 2018 Cru Bourgeois ready to drink. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 88 (Saint-Estèphe). Packed with richness, this abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Merlot-dominated wine has perfumed black fruits Château Haut Coteau 2018 Saint-Estèphe. shot through with dark tannins. It will take time to Château Cantelaudette 2019 Graves de 93 This dense wine has ripe black-currant fla- soften and fully integrate. Drink from 2024. Wine 86 Vayres. The 85% Sémillon in this wine vors from the 50% of Cabernet Sauvignon. It shows Source International. —R.V. promises an attractive future. Ripe creamed apples the opulence of the vintage allied to a fresh, crisp abv: 13.5% Price: $30 are beginning to appear through the crisp texture. edge of acidity. Tannins and wood aging accentuate The wine will be ready soon, from late 2021. Polaner the youth of the wine, which needs time to soften. Château Tour de Pez 2018 Cru Bourgeois Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. Drink from 2025. —R.V. 88 (Saint-Estèphe). The Pez plateau close to abv: NA Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA the village of Saint-Estèphe is home to many estates that use its name. This wine with its solid texture Château Sérilhan 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Saint- and bold tannins is richly fruity while having a dry, SWEET WINES 93 Estèphe). A rich, generous wine, this has dense core. It will be ready from 2024. Monsieur dense black fruits and ripe tannins. Solid struc- Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. Château Bastor-Lamontagne 2018 Sau- ture marks the wine out as ageworthy. Wait for this abv: 14% Price: $20 93 ternes. Rich sweetness balanced by textured blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot botrytis flavors are hallmarks of this ageworthy to come together. Drink from 2024. Sherry Lehm- wine. Honey and apricots give lusciousness but ann. —R.V. LISTRAC-MÉDOC leave room for orange-marmalade freshness. The abv: 14.5% Price: $30 wine is still very young, so wait to drink until 2025. Château Fourcas-Borie 2018 Cru Bourgeois Advantage International. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château de Côme 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Saint- 92 (Listrac-Médoc). From one of the estates abv: 13.5% Price: $50/500 ml 92 Estèphe). This small 17-acre property has owned by the Borie family of Ducru-Beaucaillou in produced a sophisticated, black-fruit-flavored Saint-Julien, this wine has the same fine attention Maison Bertrand Ravache 2019 Coteau 85 wine. Smooth tannins and dense black fruits offer to detail, from the rich tannins to the warm black 88 (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux). This sweet, the prospect of a rich wine that is both structured fruits. Its rich structure is equalled by the generous ripe wine touched with botrytis is worth aging. and fruity. Drink this wine from 2025. Baron Fran- fruits and considerable aging potential. Drink the Named after the elevation (in meters) of the vine- cois Ltd. —R.V. wine from 2024. Winebow. —R.V. yard, the wine has apricot and honey flavors, with a abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $38 dryness that will open up as it matures. Drink from 2022. Evaki Imports Inc. —R.V. Château Laffitte Carcasset 2018 Cru Bour- Château Reverdi 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Listrac-­ abv: 12.5% Price: $30 92 geois (Saint-Estèphe). The estate on the 92 Médoc). With 25% Petit Verdot in the plateau of Saint-Estèphe is well situated to produce blend, this is an unusual wine but one that wears this rich, full-bodied wine. Broad tannins give the its rich, dusty tannins easily. It is full bodied, with BORDEAUX dry core essential for aging. They are balanced by structure and dark and concentrated blackberry black-currant fruits from the 50% Cabernet Sauvi- fruits. Drink this wine from 2024. Petit Pois. —R.V. RED WINES gnon in the blend. It will age well; drink from 2025. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 The Wine Trust. —R.V. SAINT-ESTÈPHE abv: 14% Price: $25 Château Cap Léon Veyrin 2018 Cru Bourgeois 91 (Listrac-Médoc). Wood aged and with attrac- Château Le Boscq 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Saint- Château Coussieu-Coutelin 2017 Saint-­ tive blackberry fruits, this solid wine is packed with 94 Estèphe). This well-run estate shows its 91 Estèphe. This ripe, elegant wine has layers dry tannins that will soften. With its structure and pedigree in this latest release. The firm tannins of the typical tannins of the appellation alongside concentrated fruits, the wine will age well. Drink

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BUYINGGUIDE this full-bodied wine from 2023. Baron Francois and wood aging. The wine’s power is mitigated by from 2025. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. Cel- Ltd. —R.V. juicy black-currant flavors and the great ripeness. lar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Drink this wine from 2024. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $30 Château Lestage 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Listrac- Château la Fortune 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Mar- 91 Médoc). From an estate owned by the Chan- Château Caroline 2018 Cru Bourgeois 93 gaux). A mere six acres, this property is freau family in Listrac, this wine currently shows 92 (Moulis-en-Médoc).­ From one of several producing some fine wines. This vintage has initial considerable wood-aging flavors that need to inte- estates owned by the Chanfreau family in Moulis softness and elegance. Fresh black fruits partner grate. Once they have, the weight of the succulent and Listrac, this is a spicy, obviously wood-aged, with the underlying tannic structure that will let it black fruits will start to come through. The wine wine. If the wood flavors are too prominent at this age. Drink this wine from 2025. Advantage Interna- has potential. Drink from 2024. Monsieur Touton stage, proper integration comes with the dense tional. —R.V. Selection Ltd. —R.V. blackberry fruits and acidity. So give the wine time abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $29 and drink from 2024. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château Deyrem Valentin 2018 Cru Bourgeois Château Vieux Moulin 2018 Cru Bourgeois abv: 14.5% Price: $25 92 (Margaux). While this wine does suffer from 89 (Listrac-Médoc). Well placed in the village high alcohol, it also shows much of the Margaux of Listrac, this is a fourth-generation estate. This Château Chemin-Royal 2018 Cru Bourgeois elegance. The firm tannins and bold structure are wine’s rich tannins are typical of the appellation, 90 (Moulis-en-Médoc). While this wine shows mitigated by succulent and ripe black-currant fla- underlying the dense black-plum fruits and com- considerable wood-aging flavors, that is temporary. vors. It needs to age, not to be drunk before 2025. plex structure. The wine will age well and firmly. Under that toastiness lies layers of rich tannins APS Wine & Spirits. —R.V. Drink from 2024. Private Cask Imports. —R.V. and impressive black-currant flavors. The wine has abv: 15% Price: $47 abv: 14.5% Price: $26 a fine future. Drink from 2024. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. Château Paveil de Luze 2018 Cru Bourgeois Château Saransot-Dupré 2018 Cru Bourgeois abv: 14% Price: $25 92 (Margaux). Young but already elegant and 88 (Listrac-Médoc). Named after the Dupré complex, this wine is destined for long-term aging. family, this estate to the west of Listrac has pro- Château Guitignan 2018 Cru Bourgeois Ripe blackberry fruits and serious tannins will take duced a strict, tannic wine. Rich tannins are in dan- 88 (Moulis-en-Médoc). Produced by the coop- time to mature. Drink from 2025 when this wine ger of overwhelming the fruits. Time will tell, but erative in neighboring Listrac, this wine is spicy and will be in balance. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. the wine certainly needs time. Wait to drink until packed with wood-aging flavors that hopefully will abv: 14% Price: $40 2024. HB Wine Merchants. —R.V. integrate better. Black-currant fruits provide suste- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 nance and weight behind the tannins. Let the wine age and drink from 2023. Private Cask Imports. HAUT-MÉDOC Château Capdet 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Listrac- —R.V. 87 Médoc). Produced by the cooperative of Lis- abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Château Belle-Vue 2018 Cru Bourgeois trac, this wine comes from a family-owned estate. 93 (Haut-Médoc). With a blend that has an The wine has a dry core and hints of the wood aging. unusual 18% Petit Verdot, this wine is dark in color Black-fruit flavors with a majority of jammy Mer- MARGAUX and firm, with big black-fruit flavors. It is rich, lot contrast with firm tannins that will soften. The intense and full of tannins that indicate great aging wine will be ready from 2023. Private Cask Imports. Château d’Arsac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Mar- potential. This powerful wine is likely to be ready —R.V. 94 gaux). This wine comes from an estate in from 2025. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 the western end of the Margaux appellation. The abv: 13.5% Price: $19 rich tannins and structure of the wine show its Château L’Ermitage 2018 Cru Bourgeois aging potential. It is complex and structured, black Château Cissac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- 87 (Listrac-Médoc). Dominated by Merlot sup- fruits working with the well-judged tannins and 93 Médoc). This is an impressive wine. Domi- ported by 20% Petit Verdot, this rich, densely tex- dense texture. Drink this wine from 2026. Mon- nated by Cabernet Sauvignon, it is full of black-plum tured blend shows powerful tannins. Dark choco- sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. fruits, rich tannins and great potential. The velvet late and licorice flavors suggest firm extraction that abv: 13.5% Price: $35 texture brings out an opulent, succulent character gives the wine a dry character. Everything needs to that will remain as the wine ages. It needs to age, so open, but the elements are there. Drink from 2023. Château Mongravey 2018 Cru Bourgeois drink from 2025. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. The Wine List Inc. —R.V. 94 (Margaux). A richly structured wine burst- abv: 14% Price: $29 abv: 14% Price: $25 ing with black fruits, this is rich in tannins and wood-aging flavors. This latest release from the Château d’Agassac 2018 Cru Bourgeois estate in western Margaux is still very young but 93 (Haut-Médoc). This elegantly structured MOULIS-EN-MÉDOC has great promise. The dominance of Cabernet Sau- wine already shows good balance between its tan- vignon gives the black-currant fruit and the tannins nins and generous black-currant fruits. The struc- Château Biston-Brillette 2018 Cru Bourgeois for aging. Drink this wine from 2024. Aquitaine ture will allow it to age, promising a civilized wine 93 (Moulis-en-Médoc). Owned by the Barbar- Wine Company. Cellar Selection. —R.V. that will be ready from 2023. MS Walker. —R.V. ian family, this 64-acre estate has produced a con- abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 13% Price: $35 centrated wine. Bold tannins mingle with perfumed blackberry fruits, promising good aging. Drink this Château Bellevue de Tayac 2018 Cru Bour- Château de Lamarque 2018 Haut-Médoc. The concentrated wine from 2024. Cynthia Hurley Wine 93 geois (Margaux). This is a small, 10-acre 93 estate associated with this medieval bastion Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. estate at the northern limit of Margaux. Perfumed of Lamarque is producing some fine wines. This lat- abv: 14% Price: $30 and showing new-wood-aging flavors, this wine is est release certainly has the density and powerful well balanced with blackberry fruits. The wine’s richness of the vintage. But this is balanced by the Château Lalaudey 2018 Cru Bourgeois elegance is assured as is its aging potential. Drink structure and tannins from the Cabernet Sauvignon 93 (Moulis-en-Médoc).­ This wine is richly structured, with fine tannins from both the fruit

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 in the blend. The wine should wait. It will be ready berry fruits and spiciness. The wine, ripe with have given intense spice to this wine that is bold, from 2025. Advantage International. —R.V. Merlot, will age well. Drink from 2024. Fruit of the rich and concentrated. The vivid, ripe black fruits abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. will calm down as the wine ages further, giving a abv: 14.5% Price: $25 balanced, smooth blend. Drink from 2025. AHD Château du Taillan 2018 Cru Bourgeois Vintners. Best Buy. —R.V. 93 (Haut-Médoc). A high proportion of Mer- Château du Cartillon 2018 Cru Bourgeois abv: 14.5% Price: $15 lot in this blend gives richness and fruity intensity. 92 (Haut-Médoc). Close to the small port of The wine is juicy, succulent with black-plum flavors Lamarque in central Haut-Médoc, this estate offers Château Peyredon Lagravette 2018 Cru Bour- that are full and fleshy in the mouth. Its structure a wine that is rich and densely packed with black 92 geois (Haut-Médoc). This 24-acre property promises plenty of aging, so wait to drink the wine fruits. Wood aging has given this young wine a dry has large plantings of old vines, dominated by the until 2024. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar core that promises good aging. Drink from 2024. Cabernet Sauvignon that appears in this blend. Selection. —R.V. Advantage International. —R.V. That gives the wine shape and tannins, as well as abv: 14.5% Price: $28 abv: 14% Price: $24 rich black-currant fruits. This succulent wine is likely to age well. Drink from 2024. Polaner Selec- Château la Tonnelle 2018 Cru Bourgeois Château du Retout 2018 Cru Bourgeois tions. —R.V. 93 (Haut-Médoc). This is already a delicious 92 (Haut-Médoc). This wine has dense tannins abv: 12.5% Price: $25 wine. Black fruits shine through the wood and tan- along with perfumed spice, rich blackberry fruits nin structure to promise a fine future. Rich while and the weight of the alcohol. At this stage, all the Château Clément-Pichon 2018 Cru Bourgeois not at all overwhelming, the wine’s perfumes and elements are poised to integrate, promising a wine 91 (Haut-Médoc). Under the same ownership black-currant flavors come from the high propor- with a rich, full and concentrated future. Drink as Château la Dominique in Saint-Émilion, this tion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. This is a from 2024. Saranty Imports. —R.V. estate has produced a ripe, Merlot-dominated wine. wine to age well. Drink from 2024. Deutsch Family abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Although the fruit is intense, this wine has poise Wine and Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. and clarity, giving some lightness. It will be worth abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Château Larose Perganson 2018 Cru Bour- waiting for this wine until 2024. Atherton Wine 92 geois (Haut-Médoc). Associated with Imports. —R.V. Château Paloumey 2018 Cru Bourgeois Larose-Trintaudon, this estate has produced a abv: 13% Price: $26 93 (Haut-Médoc). Situated in the southern dense wine. Rich tannins, spice, blackberry fruits Médoc, this estate of 84 acres has produced a per- and smoky acidity are all set for good aging. The Château de Braude 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- fumed and rich wine. It has sensuality to it from the wine’s concentration is impressive and it should 91 Médoc). The vineyard is situated just west ripe Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Wood aging not be drunk before 2024. Monsieur Touton Selec- of Château Mongravey. Firm tannins are derived gives spice and a full, generous texture. Everything tion Ltd. —R.V. both from wood and fruit, giving this wine power is in place for a good future. Drink from 2025. Mon- abv: 14% Price: $35 and potential. Black fruits are beautifully perfumed sieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. from the wood aging. This wine should develop well. abv: 14% Price: $25 Château le Monteil d’Arsac 2018 Cru Bour- Drink from 2024. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. 92 geois (Haut-Médoc). This wine comes from abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Château Reysson 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- the portion of the Arsac estate that is not in the 93 Médoc). Rich in black fruits, this wine appellation of Margaux. Rich tannins and full-bod- Château Haut-Logat 2018 Cru Bourgeois shows great promise. Ripe tannins and spice are cut ied ripeness indicate the finesse of the estate and 91 (Haut-Médoc). A smooth and richly textured by juicy black-currant flavors. The 133-acre estate, the potential of the wine. The juicy aftertaste bodes wine, this has equal proportions of Merlot and Cab- west of Pauillac, has produced a wine that will age. equally well. Drink from 2024. Monsieur Touton ernet Sauvignon. Dark-chocolate flavors balance Drink from 2025. Champagnes & Châteaux USA. Selection Ltd. —R.V. ripe blackberry fruits and firm tannins to produce Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA a wine that is sure to age. Drink from 2023. Cheval abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Quancard. —R.V. Château Lestage Simon 2018 Cru Bourgeois abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Château Arnauld 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- 92 (Haut-Médoc). This complex wine has lay- 92 Médoc). This ripe, juicy wine comes from ers of black-currant fruits under the firm, dry tex- Château Lamothe-Cissac 2018 Cru Bourgeois a vineyard planted around a medieval priory. The ture. It shows great potential, with the Cabernet 91 (Haut-Médoc). From an estate owned by the wine has spice, ripe tannins and attractive black- Sauvignon lending structure to the ripe Merlot. The Fabre family, this juicy wine offers black-currant currant and red-berry fruits. The winning combina- wine should be ready from 2024. Advantage Inter- flavors from the 58% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is ripe tion should age well, so drink from 2023. Monsieur national. —R.V. and attractively balanced, full of berry flavors and Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $26 good acidity. The wine has the vibrancy of youth abv: 14% Price: $55 but will age well, so wait until 2023. Deutsch Fam- Château Maurac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- ily Wine and Spirits. —R.V. Château Beaumont 2018 Cru Bourgeois 92 Médoc). A 24-acre vineyard close to Saint- abv: 14% Price: $30 92 (Haut-Médoc). Under the same manage- Estèphe has produced this rich and dense wine. ment as Château Beychevelle in Saint-Julien, this Tannins give a solid base to generous black-plum Château Larose-Trintaudon 2018 Cru Bour- estate is now showing its fine potential. The balance and berry fruits. Initially it seems as though this 91 geois (Haut-Médoc). From one of the larg- between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot means wine will develop quickly, but that is deceptive. est estates in the Médoc, this wine is packed with vivid fruits as well as rich tannins. The wine should With the tannic core and firm aftertaste, the wine black-currant fruits and elegant tannins. Initially it develop well but it will be best to wait until 2024. will take its time. Drink from 2024. Michael Corso seems light, but a core of structure and classic poise Maison Barriere USA. —R.V. Selections. —R.V. between fruit and tannin make the wine a candidate abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $28 for aging. Drink from 2024. Monsieur Touton Selec- tion Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Château de Malleret 2018 Cru Bourgeois Château Peyrabon 2018 Cru Bourgeois abv: 13.5% Price: $25 92 (Haut-Médoc). This is the latest release 92 (Haut-Médoc). This estate, touching Pauil- from this grand estate in the southern Médoc. Bold lac, belongs to the Bernard family, also owners of Château Maucamps 2018 Cru Bourgeois tannins go well with the richly structured black- Domaine de Chevalier. Rich tannins and wood aging 91 (Haut-Médoc). Balanced between tannins

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BUYINGGUIDE and black fruits, this wine is dense and solid, show- Médoc close to Margaux. Finely wrought tannins has a good future. Drink from 2024. Traditions & ing the opulent fruit of this vintage. It does have support black-currant fruits. Drink this attractive Innovations. —R.V. a structure and therefore aging potential, rich in wine that has potential balance from 2023. Advan- abv: 14% Price: $35 blackberry flavors and with a dry core. Drink from tage International. —R.V. 2023. DS Trading Co. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Château Balac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 88 Médoc). Owned by the Touchais family Château d’Arcins 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- originally from Anjou in the Loire, this estate is now Château Bernadotte 2018 Cru Bourgeois 89 Médoc). This estate owned by the Castel in its third generation. The wine is spicy, showing 90 (Haut-Médoc). Named after the royal fam- family is starting to show its real potential. The dry tannins that are sure to soften. It will mature ily of Sweden, this estate is now producing wines wine has fine tannins and elegant black fruits, into a full wine, structured and ready to drink from worthy of the pedigree. This latest release is rich encased in a structure that will allow the wine to 2023. E-Corp Inc. —R.V. and balanced, offering black fruits dominated by age. Drink from 2022. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20 Merlot and bold tannins. It is a powerful wine that abv: 14% Price: $25 will take time. Drink from 2024. Fruit of the Vines, Château Barreyres 2018 Cru Bourgeois Inc. —R.V. Château du Moulin Rouge 2018 Cru Bour- 88 (Haut-Médoc). From near the village of abv: 14.5% Price: $40 89 geois (Haut-Médoc). This wine from a Arcins in the heart of the Haut-Medoc, this is an 44-acre estate close to the Gironde estuary is rich easygoing, juicy wine. The tannins, already soft, Château Corconnac 2018 Cru Bourgeois in jammy black fruit from the Merlot in the blend. generously support the ripe, black-currant fruits. 90 (Haut-Médoc). This 21-acre, family-owned There is plenty of structure as well, giving the wine It is likely to develop quickly, so drink from 2022. estate has produced an attractively fruity wine. The a chance to age. Drink this attractive wine from Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. balance between tannins and vibrant black fruits 2023. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $27 promises a generous future. Black-currant flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $20 from the 65% Cabernet Sauvignon gives a final Château Bellegrave du Poujeau 2018 Cru fresh layer on top of the tannins. Drink from 2023. Château Haut-Logat 2016 Cru Bourgeois 88 Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). In the southern MS Walker. —R.V. 89 (Haut-Médoc). Almost half-and-half Merlot Médoc, this 10-acre estate has produced an open, abv: 13.5% Price: $30 and Cabernet Sauvignon with just a touch of Caber- softly fruity wine. The tannins and the wood aging net Franc, this wine is ripe, firm with smoky black offer structure to support the black fruits and fresh Château la Croix Margautot 2018 Haut-­ fruits and solid tannins. The tannins of the year are acidity. This wine will be ready from 2023. DS 90 Médoc. Ripe and juicy, this wine is all about still in place and likely to remain but the weight of Trading Co. —R.V. generous black fruits. Its dense texture and struc- fruit gives contrast and balance. Drink from 2022. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 ture from the 55% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend MHW, Ltd. —R.V. shows the aging potential. Drink from 2023. MHW, abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Château Bibian 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- Ltd. —R.V. 88 Médoc). This estate close to Listrac has pro- abv: 14% Price: $25 Château la Lauzette Declercq 2018 Cru Bour- duced a wine that shares some of the firm tannins 89 geois (Haut-Médoc). The 55% Cabernet of that appellation. Dark and with a strong struc- Château Magnol 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- Sauvignon and the 14 months in wood have pro- ture, this wine will take time to develop. Drink from 90 Médoc). For full review see page 16. duced a wine that has good balance and potential. 2023. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30 Black-currant flavors are still firmly in thrall to tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 nins that will surely soften. Drink from 2023. Eagle Château Meyre 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- Eye Brands. —R.V. Château Doyac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- 90 Médoc). With luscious black fruits, this abv: 14% Price: $27 88 Médoc). This blend with 80% Merlot has wine is immediately attractive. The structure also considerable power and richness. The weight is pal- has plenty of promise. Underneath the blackberry Château Landat 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- pable, bursting with black fruits and dry tannins. It fruitiness, a dry, solid base will allow the wine to 89 Médoc). This vibrant wine is packed with is still young and the wine will soften over the next age. Drink from 2024. Organic. BBR Imports. —R.V. blackberry flavors. While the wood aging shows years. Drink from 2023. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $29 strongly at this stage, that will subside as the fruiti- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 ness makes its presence felt. This full, generous Château Ramage la Batisse 2018 Cru Bour- wine will be ready to drink from 2024. Deutsch Château Lacour Jacquet 2018 Cru Bourgeois 90 geois (Haut-Médoc). This structured wine Family Wine and Spirits. —R.V. 88 (Haut-Médoc). In the heart of the Médoc is elegant in its balance between tannins and black abv: 14% Price: $27 and close to the Gironde estuary, this vineyard has fruits, making it a candidate for long-term aging. A produced a wine solidly based on dry, firm tannins. smoky character from wood aging is integrating well Château Liversan 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- Blackberry fruits emphasize the rich texture. The with the structure. Drink this wine from 2024. Vin- 89 Médoc). This structured and firm wine wine will certainly age, and should be ready from tage Imports, Inc. —R.V. shows bold tannins and rich black fruits. Spice from 2023. LBV Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 wood aging mingles with the juicy acidity and pow- abv: 14% Price: $24 erful texture. The edge of extraction does spoil the Château Troupian 2018 Haut-Médoc. Under wine, but it could dissipate. Wait until 2024. Can- Château Vieux Landat 2018 Cru Bourgeois 90 the same ownership as Château Lestage non Wines Limited. —R.V. 88 (Haut-Médoc). This estate in Cissac, north Simon, this wine has a richly balanced, solidly tex- abv: 14% Price: $25 of Saint-Estèphe, has produced a ripe and struc- tured character. Black-currant and red-berry fruits tured wine that balances fresh black fruitiness and already show well, offering the potential for ripe- Château Puy Castera 2018 Cru Bourgeois acidity with a core of dry tannins. The shape of the ness and freshness as the wine matures. Drink from 89 (Haut-Médoc). This ripe and spicy wine wine and its finely wrought texture promise good 2023. Advantage International. —R.V. shows plenty of wood-aging flavors while not leav- aging. Drink from 2023. Pier 71 Wines. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $19 ing any of the rich black-currant fruits behind. The abv: 14% Price: $29 wine is full, typically generous for the vintage, and Château Cap l’Ousteau 2018 Haut-Médoc. Château de Villambis 2018 Cru Bourgeois 89 This is a stylish wine from the central 87 (Haut-Médoc). This wine is richly textured,

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 with both ripe tannins and generous black fruits. drop of tannins. Fruity now, the wine is worth wait- tial for a little more aging. Drink from 2022. Black Offering spice, black-currant flavors and fresh acid- ing for. Drink from 2024. Baron Francois Ltd. Cellar Hawk Imports. —R.V. ity at the end, this very drinkable wine will be ready Selection. —R.V. abv: 125% Price: $17 soon. Drink from 2022. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: NA Price: $13 Château Campillot 2018 Cru Bourgeois Château Castera 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). 90 (Médoc). This wine is immediately attrac- Château Haut-Logat 2016 Haut-Galot (Haut- 91 The wine from this large 150-acre estate is tive. Wood aging gives a smoky character to the 87 Médoc). From an estate owned by negociant always reliable. This latest release may have consid- warm black fruits. Tannins give support and a dry Cheval Quancard, this second wine is lightly spicy erable wood-aging flavors at this stage but it also core that will allow the wine to age. Drink from while also structured and firm from tannins that lie offers delicious black-currant fruits to go with the 2023. The Wine Source. —R.V. behind the blackberry fruits. Rich and with a solid, ripe tannins. It is a wine to age, so wait until 2024. abv: 14% Price: $25 dry core, the wine is developing well, ready from Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. late 2021. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $28 Château Fontis 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). abv: 13% Price: $26 90 The 24-acre estate has produced a struc- Château Fonréaud 2018 Cru Bourgeois tured wine, still showing some of its wood aging Château Saint Ahon 2018 Cru Bourgeois 91 (Médoc). The home vineyard for the Chan- but also giving richness and density. Because of its 87 (Haut-Médoc). With 61% Cabernet Sau- freau family has produced this dense wine that youthful fruit and tannins, this wine is set for aging. vignon, this blend is well structured and layered shows some of the firm tannins of a Listrac. At the Drink from 2023. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. with tannins and fresh blackberry fruits. A dry same time, the rich fruit typical of the vintage, from abv: 14% Price: $9 core needs to soften, so wait until 2023. Elixirs du equal proportions of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvi- Monde. —R.V. gnon, is prominent, giving good aging potential. Château Gemeillan 2018 Cru Bourgeois abv: 13% Price: $23 Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. 90 (Médoc). Full-bodied, ripe blackberry abv: 14.5% Price: $29 fruits shine strongly in this rich wine. Succulent Château Tour Saint-Joseph 2018 Cru Bour- fruitiness is allied to a core of tannins. This wine 84 geois (Haut-Médoc). Owned by negociant Château Grivière 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). comes from a much improved and restored estate, Cheval Quancard, this toasty wine offers superripe 91 This powerful, Merlot-dominated wine now worth watching. Drink the wine from 2023. black fruits. Big tannins push the wine out of shape, shows great concentration and richness. The den- Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. flattening overripeness. Cheval Quancard. —R.V. sity is enhanced by the core of dark tannins while abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 leaving plenty of room for the blackberry and dark- plum flavors. This will be an attractive wine, but Château Le Bourdieu 2018 Cru Bourgeois wait until 2024. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. 90 (Médoc). Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon MÉDOC —R.V. with a touch of Petit Verdot make a satisfying blend abv: 14% Price: $23 in this ripe, smoky and warmly structured wine. Château Fleur la Mothe 2018 Cru Bourgeois It still has plenty of tannin while the black fruits 92 (Médoc). A group of the top wine consul- Château la Tour de By 2018 Médoc. The struc- are pushing forward. The wine needs more time, so tants in the Médoc own this estate, where most 91 tured Cabernet Sauvignon in this ripe wine drink from 2023. Cutting Edge Selections. —R.V. vines are on gravel mounds (mothe in the local gives attractive black-currant flavors and a core of abv: 13.5% Price: $18 patois means mound). This latest release balances tannins that will allow it to age. It is a great food the necessary structure and rich, black-currant wine: fruity, structured and sure to age well. Drink Château le Vieux Fort 2018 Cru Bourgeois fruits. With a dense texture of tannins, the wine from 2024. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. 90 (Médoc). This elegant wine is spiced with will age. Drink from 2023. Premier Wine Co. Best abv: 14% Price: $22 wood aging that will soften and poised with black- Buy. —R.V. currant fruits. A fine layer of acidity balances the abv: 14% Price: $14 Château Lestruelle 2018 Cru Bourgeois tannins and gives the wine freshness and potential. 91 (Médoc). Succulent and juicy, this is a full, Drink from 2023. Advantage International. —R.V. Château La Cardonne 2018 Cru Bourgeois rich wine. Its tannins and black-currant fruiti- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 92 (Médoc). This wine offers rich tannins and ness are already in harmony, giving a wine that is dense black fruits in equal proportions. The struc- both delicious and structured. It should age well, Château Patache d’Aux 2018 Cru Bourgeois ture, with the dry core, shows great promise and the so drink this full-bodied wine from 2023. Tri-Vin 90 (Médoc). With its preponderance of Cab- wine is definitely worth aging. Drink from 2024. Imports. —R.V. ernet Sauvignon, this wine has rich, structured Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $15 tannins as well as black-currant fruits. Wood aging —R.V. has smoothed the wine, leaving a spicy character abv: 14% Price: $25 Château Amour 2018 Médoc. A half-and- and plenty of ripeness. This latest release from the 90 half blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sau- estate, which is on an upward trend, needs some Château la Tour de By 2018 Cuvée Héritage vignon, this is a ripe, black-currant-flavored and aging. Drink from 2023. Cannon Wines Limited. 92 (Médoc). Sophisticated tannins and rich smoothly textured wine. Light smokiness from —R.V. wood flavors go with the generous black fruits of wood aging brings complexity. Acidity comes abv: 14% Price: $NA this Merlot-dominated wine. It is powered by dark through freshly and strongly at the end. Drink from berry flavors and the core of dryness, both of which 2022. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. Château Tour Prignac 2018 Cru Bourgeois promise good aging over the years. Drink this wine abv: 14% Price: $15 90 (Médoc). Half-and-half Cabernet Sauvi- from 2024. K&L Wine Merchants. Cellar Selection. gnon and Merlot, this wine from a 350-acre estate —R.V. Château Bessan Ségur 2016 Cru Bourgeois is perfumed, ripe with rich tannins. At the same abv: 14% Price: $30 90 (Médoc). Ripe and smoky, this wine is time, a juicy, black-currant character gives fresh- just approaching maturity. Blackberry fruits are ness. The structure promises the aging, so drink Château Ramafort 2018 Cru Bourgeois matched by spice and hints of toastiness from wood from 2023. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. 92 (Médoc). From an 18 parcel vineyard once aging. It has ripe berries, acidity and the poten- abv: 14.5% Price: $21 owned by Lafite-Rothschild. Rich tannins are pol- ished and smoothly textured, belying the firm back-

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Château Beauvillage 2018 Cru Bourgeois and promise. Drink this ripe wine from 2024. Fruit release is structured and full of dry tannins, but 89 (Médoc). This wine falls just on the right of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. with the promise of balanced black-fruit flavors. It side of too much wood aging. The fruit is dense and abv: 13.5% Price: $17 will take time to develop and should not be drunk powerful enough to cope with the toastiness, but it before 2023. Misa Imports. —R.V. will take time for the wine to integrate fully. Drink Château Clément Saint-Jean 2018 Cru Bour- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA from 2023. L & L International. —R.V. 88 geois (Médoc). This estate, inland from the abv: 14% Price: $25 Gironde, has produced a ripe, generously textured Château la France Delhomme 2018 Cru Bour- and black-currant-flavored wine. It is full, spicy 87 geois (Médoc). The 90% Merlot in this Château Bessan Ségur 2018 Cru Bourgeois with a touch of pepper and bursting with young wine gives richness while the high alcohol brings 89 (Médoc). Still showing its wood aging, this tannins and fruit. Drink the wine from 2023. Misa in a burn of pepper on the palate. Black fruits are wine nevertheless has a balanced future. Black-cur- Imports. —R.V. rich, dense and packed with juicy acidity to contrast rant fruits from the blend of four grapes, including abv: 13.5% Price: $23 with the bold structure. The wine will be ready from Petit Verdot and Malbec, are bold with flavor and 2023. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. ripe acidity. Drink this wine from 2023. Château Château l’Argenteyre 2016 Cru Bourgeois abv: 15% Price: $20 Bessan Ségur. —R.V. 88 (Médoc). A rich and juicy wine with a fine abv: 13% Price: $21 future, this is full of berry fruits and still-young, Château la Ribaud 2018 Cru Bourgeois firm tannins. Wood aging does show at the moment 87 (Médoc). Unusually there is a small percent- Château des Collines 2015 Médoc. This but the rich fruit will allow everything to come age of Malbec in this wine. It is fruity ,with fresh 89 wine, now mature, is ripe with generous together. Drink the wine from 2023. Misa Imports. black-currant flavors as well as juicy acidity. Drink black fruits that have softened and opened into the —R.V. this attractive wine from 2022. Tri-Vin Imports. tannic structure. Produced by the Colmeyn family, abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Best Buy. —R.V. the softly textured blend holds mainly Merlot and abv: 14% Price: $10 Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink the wine now. Artisans Château la Gorce 2018 Cru Bourgeois & Vines. —R.V. 88 (Médoc). This wine comes from a 118-acre Château les Tresquots 2018 Cru Bourgeois abv: 13% Price: $23 estate. It is stalky, with closed black fruits that need 87 (Médoc). This fresh, ripe wine shows spicy time to soften and smooth out. Likewise, the tannin wood-aging flavors as well as black-currant fruits. Château la Chandellière 2018 Cru Bourgeois structure is still dry and also needs time. But this The wood aging needs to integrate better before the 89 (Médoc). The Secret family has produced a wine has a future. Wait to drink until 2023. Bridge wine will be ready to drink. Wait until 2023. Misa firm wine, structured with tannins but also with a Imports. —R.V. Imports. —R.V. serious weight of fruit. High alcohol doesn’t seem a abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 problem with this wine because of its fresh, bright black currants. It will age and smooth out, so wait Château la Tour de By 2017 Médoc. This wine Château Moulin de Canhaut 2018 Cru Bour- until 2024. Joanne Bordeaux USA. —R.V. 88 is dry, the tannins still dominant. But it will 87 geois (Médoc). With a fresh, juicy character, abv: 14.5% Price: $20 soften, bringing out some fruitiness. But the black- this wine is bright, full of black-currant fruits and currant flavors are light, leaving tight acidity at the fresh acidity. With its light texture and tannins, the Château la Roque de By 2018 Cru Bourgeois end. Drink from late 2021. K&L Wine Merchants. wine will age quickly. Drink from 2022. Verity Wine 89 (Médoc). This property of the Pagès family —R.V. Partners. —R.V. has given us an attractively fruity wine. Tannins are abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $NA still young and the black-currant fruit is still fresh and juicy. This half-and-half blend of Merlot and Château Pey de Pont 2018 Cru Bourgeois Château Bournac 2018 Cru Bourgeois Cabernet Sauvignon will develop well, ready from 88 (Médoc). This third-generation-owned 86 (Médoc). This big, rich wine is solid with 2023. K&L Wine Merchants. Best Buy. —R.V. estate planted to a majority of Merlot has given us ripe Merlot fruits and dense tannins. The wine does abv: 14% Price: $13 a smoothly textured, rich wine, full of juicy black have some juiciness, but its weight and pepper edge fruits that mask the firm tannins. The wine will from alcohol spoil the blackberry fruits. Drink the Château la Tour de By 2017 Cuvée Héritage develop quickly and be ready from 2023. Fruit of wine from 2023. Joanne Bordeaux USA. —R.V. 89 (Médoc). This is a lean wine, with fresh the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $20 black currant fruits and a light touch of tannins. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Brightness is enhanced by acidity and the perfumed Château Haut Barrail 2018 Cru Bourgeois aftertaste. Drink from 2022. K&L Wine Merchants. Château Poitevin 2018 Cru Bourgeois 86 (Médoc). A high proportion of Merlot gives —R.V. 88 (Médoc). This ripe, spicy wine is full of this wine a juicy, jammy character that dominates abv: 13% Price: $30 black-currant fruits. It has a layer of firm tannins the core of tannins and the spicy, grilled-almond as well as hints of wood-aging flavors. All these ele- flavors. The wine will develop quickly, so drink from Château le Temple 2018 Cru Bourgeois ments will come together well as the wine matures. 2022. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 89 (Médoc). A rich, Cabernet Sauvignon- It will be worth waiting until 2023. Verity Wine abv: 14.5% Price: $25 dominated wine, this is spicy, hinting at the wood Partners. —R.V. aging but packed with full, ripe blackberry flavors. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Château Ladignac 2018 Cru Bourgeois Tannins and fruit are developing in parallel, and the 86 (Médoc). This simple fruity wine is lightly wine will be ready from 2022. Monsieur Touton Château Saint-Hilaire 2018 Cru Bourgeois spicy, with plenty of blackberry fruits. Although Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. 88 (Médoc). This softly textured wine is spicy, tannins are up front at this stage they will soon give abv: 14% Price: $14 with some smokiness to go with the black fruits. A way to the wine’s natural fruitiness. Drink from core of tannins is maturing behind the vibrant fruit. 2023. Misa Imports. —R.V. Château Noaillac 2018 Cru Bourgeois Drink this wine from 2023. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20 89 (Médoc). With almost equal proportions of abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is clas- Château Maison Blanche 2018 Cru Bourgeois sic. Touched by wood, but with the fruit very much Château Vieux Robin 2018 Cru Bourgeois 86 (Médoc). From one of the estates owned by up front, the wine has richness, a smoky character 88 (Médoc). This 25-acre estate has been the Bouey family, this wine has richness as well as owned by the same family since 1840. Its latest straight, taut structure. The combination, tough at

84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 this stage, promises well and the wine should be Château de Fieuzal 2018 Pessac-Léognan. A while it does have tannins, it emphasizes the rich drunk from 2023. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. 94 wine that will take time to balance out, this black fruits. A touch of smokiness from wood aging abv: 14% Price: $15 has dense, dark and dry tannins at this stage. These gives spice to the wine. Drink from 2023. Wine underline the richness of the black fruits and acid- Source International. —R.V. Château Méric 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). ity, giving a wine that will need to age to lose its abv: 14.5% Price: $30 86 Although this wine is fruity, the tannins firm edge. Drink from 2025. The Wine Trust.Edi - and wood-aging toastiness show most strongly. The tors’ Choice. —R.V. Château Pont Saint-Martin 2018 Pessac- wine has some future but it is likely to be a dry, firm abv: 14.5% Price: $49 92 Léognan. A powerful and dense wine, this one. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —R.V. shows the richness and the alcohol of the year. From abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Château Bouscaut 2018 Pessac-Léognan. vines that grow just south of Bordeaux city, the wine 93 While wood-aging shows strongly at this offers great tannins, a juicy black-currant character Château Roquegrave 2018 Cru Bourgeois stage, this wine has a fine future thanks to dense and obvious potential. Drink from 2023. —R.V. 86 (Médoc). From an estate close to Gironde black fruits that give richness, balance and acidity. abv: 14.5% Price: $42 estuary, this wine has tannins that are already soft- The wine will develop slowly, so wait until 2025. ening, giving fresh fruitiness and lightly perfumed Joanne Bordeaux USA. —R.V. Château Roche-Lalande 2018 Pessac­- acidity. Aged partly in wood, the wine will develop abv: 14.5% Price: $40 92 -Léognan. A blend of 50% Cabernets, this quickly. Drink from 2022. Lionstone International. is solid and rich in black-currant and spice flavors. —R.V. Château Carbonnieux 2018 La Croix de Car- It has the weight and potential to age well, showing abv: 14% Price: $18 93 bonnieux (Pessac-Léognan). The second plenty of dark tannins and acidity. Drink this wine wine of Carbonnieux, this has structure and a firm from 2024. —R.V. Château La Branne 2018 Cru Bourgeois core of tannins. Despite the high alcohol, it is fruity abv: 14.5% Price: $48 85 (Médoc). There was probably over-enthu- with black-currant flavors and some aging poten- siastic wood aging in this wine that suffers from tial. Drink this well-formed wine from 2023. —R.V. Domaine de la Solitude 2018 Pessac-­ heavy toastiness. Fruit has been submerged by spice abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 92 Léognan. This wine comes from an estate and smokiness. While the balance will be restored, owned by a religious order and managed by Domaine there will always be this residue of wood flavors. Château Couhins 2018 Pessac-Léognan. This de Chevalier. Luscious black fruits are sophisticated Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 93 wine is richly endowed with dark tannins and full. Embedded in the black fruits, the tannins abv: 13.5% Price: $26 and swathes of ripe black fruits. Dry with a dense are just showing their potential as the wine opens tannic character, the wine has a good future. The out. This will be a fine wine with time. Drink from Château Pontey 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). black fruits and rich structure promise much. Drink 2025. Multiple U.S. importers. Cellar Selection. 84 The superripe fruit is mushy, softly textured from 2025. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. and probably too generous. The tannins do come to —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $31 the rescue, giving some shape to this wine’s flabby abv: 14.5% Price: $NA fruitiness. Traditions & Innovations. —R.V. Château Bouscaut 2018 Les Chênes de Bous- abv: 14% Price: $25 Château la Garde 2016 Pessac-Léognan. This 91 caut (Pessac-Léognan). Smoky and ripe, this 93 wine from a large estate in the southern generously textured, rich second wine has delicious part of Pessac-Léognan is richly textured, packed black-currant fruitiness as well as layers of spice PESSAC-LÉOGNAN with dense black-currant fruits. The concentration from wood aging. The wine will be ready from 2023. and density are enhanced by firm black tannins and Joanne Bordeaux USA. —R.V. Domaine de Chevalier 2018 Pessac-Léognan. succulent fruitiness. Drink this wine from 2024. abv: 14% Price: $20 96 With the 65% Cabernet Sauvignon in the Champagnes & Châteaux USA. Cellar Selection. blend, this wine shows its pedigree, richness and —R.V. Château Couhins 2018 La Dame de Couhins potential. Tannins are almost velvet in their texture abv: 14.5% Price: $49 91 (Pessac-Léognan). Structured with firm, while packing a fine punch and conveying plenty of dark tannins and rich with concentrated black longevity. The ripeness of the vintage balances with Château Lespault-Martillac 2018 Pessac- fruits, this second wine is still coming together. the structure. Drink the wine from 2027. Multiple 93 Léognan. This wine, produced by the wine- The tight, spicy character will soften over the next U.S. importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. making team of Domaine de Chevalier, is dense months giving a dense, rich wine. Drink from 2023. abv: 14.5% Price: $93 with solid tannins and black fruits. Everything is Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. bursting with energy, still very young. But the wine abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Château Carbonnieux 2018 Pessac-Léognan. has potential, the succulent black-currant flavors 95 This structured, dense wine is packed with showing the way forward. Drink from 2025. Mul- Château de Fieuzal 2018 L’Abeille de Fieuzal as much tannins as fruit at this stage. Balance is tiple U.S. importers. —R.V. 91 (Pessac-Léognan). For full review see page coming and this ripe wine, with its solid, dark tex- abv: 14.5% Price: $37 13. ture and black-plum fruits, holds good promise. abv: 13% Price: $41 Drink from 2025. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Domaine de Chevalier 2018 L’Esprit de Che- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 93 valier (Pessac-Léognan). The second wine Château Latour-Martillac 2017 Lagrave-­ of Domaine de Chevalier, this shows all the richness 90 Martillac (Pessac-Léognan). The second Château Couhins-Lurton 2018 Pessac-Léog- of the vintage, with weighty tannins and a generous wine of Château Latour-Martillac, this is ripe and 94 nan. This wine comes from one of several future. Blackberry fruits and a core that promises juicy, with light wood aging and a spicy character. estates owned by the Lurton family in Pessac- plenty of potential as the dryness softens contribute Soft but with a good streak of tight acidity, the Léognan. Rich in tannins as well as black fruits, to what will be a richly structured, complex wine. wine is likely to be ready to drink from 2023. Wine this release is dense and complex, powered by its Drink from 2026. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. Source International. —R.V. structure as much as by the fruit. It is a wine with abv: 14% Price: $37 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 potential, so wait to drink until 2026. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. Château Latour-Martillac 2018 Lagrave-­ Domaine La Roche 2018 Pessac-Léognan. abv: 13.5% Price: $65 92 Martillac (Pessac-Léognan). This is the sec- 88 With its soft tannins and balance between ond wine of Latour-Martillac. The wine is ripe and black fruits and structure, this generous, open wine

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BUYINGGUIDE is developing well. The fruitiness, spice and wood- Château Calvimont 2018 Graves. This wine ing tannins as well as generous black fruits. The aging flavors are still young. Drink from 2023. —R.V. 91 comes from specific parcels in the Château de richness and smoothing nature of the wood aging abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Cérons estate. It is light, with a fresh line of black- have given this wine excellent potential. Drink from currant fruits. Solid tannins in the background 2023. Advantage International. —R.V. assure further aging. Drink from 2022. EU. Family abv: 14% Price: $29 GRAVES Estates. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Château Trébiac 2018 Graves. Owned by the Château de Cérons 2018 Graves. This grand 90 De Butler family, this estate has produced a 93 estate is located just north of the village of Clos Floridène 2018 Graves. One of the prop- soft, juicy and black-fruited wine. Generous tannins Cérons. Its renaissance is now complete and this 91 erties of the Dubourdieu family, this estate and crisp acidity come together with succulent fruit latest release is well structured, rich with dense has made a rich wine, packed with tannins as well to give a wine that will develop quickly. Drink from tannins and juicy with black-currant flavors. The as black fruits. It has concentration and wood-aging 2022. The Wine Company. Best Buy. —R.V. wine will certainly age. Drink from 2023. Wine- flavors that are still prominent, but the future looks abv: 14.5% Price: $15 berry America LLC. —R.V. good. Drink from 2023. AP Wine Imports. Editors’ abv: 14% Price: $24 Choice. —R.V. Vieux Château Gaubert 2018 Graves. This abv: 14% Price: $23 90 dry yet ripe wine comes from one of the top Château de Chantegrive 2018 Graves. This estates in the Graves. Tannins confer richness and 92 wine is young but has great potential. The Château Crabitey 2018 Graves. This rich add substance to the black fruits. Drink this wine tannins shine, balanced with powerful black fruits 90 wine is powered by tannins and generous from 2022. DS Trading Co. —R.V. and a solid, dense texture. The wine will age well blackberry fruits. It is currently dry, with a firm abv: 13% Price: $32 and will be at its best from 2023. Saranty Imports. core. But the wine has weight and will develop well. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Drink from 2023. Premier Wine Co. —R.V. Château Lagrange 2018 Graves. This wine abv: 14.5% Price: $26 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 89 is rich and concentrated. Powerful tannins and a dense texture are supported by solid black- Château de la Brède 2018 Graves. The vine- Château de Castres 2018 Graves. This berry fruits. The wine will take time to develop to 92 yard of the ancient moated castle of La 90 wine has perfumed wood flavors, hints of drinkabilty, so wait until 2023. DHI Selections. Brède, birthplace of writer Montesquieu, has pro- mint and plenty of black fruits. Rich tannins come —R.V. duced a densely structured, dark and firm wine. It through strongly in this full-bodied wine that offers abv: 14.5% Price: $38 is lots of potential with ripe tannins and powerful generous fruitiness and structure. Drink from 2023. black fruits developing in the background. Drink —R.V. Château le Bonnat 2018 Graves. A rich, per- from 2023. DS Trading Co. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 89 fumed wine from an estate owned by the abv: 13% Price: $45 Lesgourgues family that also produces Armagnac. Château de Chantegrive 2018 Les Oiseaux The wine is juicy and with an attractive freshness Château des Places 2018 Agora (Graves). 90 de Chantegrive L’Origine (Graves). Power- and bright fruitiness. Drink from 2022. Baron Fran- 92 Wood aging has given this rich wine a per- ful and rich, this is a densely textured, wood-aged cois Ltd. —R.V. fumed character, as well as dry tannins that will wine. Ripe blackberry fruits are laced with per- abv: 14% Price: $25 soften over the next years. This ripe and structured fumed crisp acidity that will support the wine as it wine will be ready from 2023. DHI Selections. —R.V. matures. It will be a full and juicy wine from 2022. Château Magneau 2018 Graves. Smoky and abv: 14% Price: $38 Saranty Imports. —R.V. 89 strongly toasty, this wine has a firm struc- abv: 14% Price: $20 ture. The blackberry fruits are a hint in the distance, Château du Seuil 2018 Graves. This is an but they are there and will begin to show their juicy 92 elegant wine, structured with firm tannins Château de Portets 2018 Graves. This ripe, attractiveness. It is worth waiting for this wine. and finely wrought black fruits. Hints of the wood 90 spicy wine is full of black fruits and toasty Drink from 2022. Wine Traditions. —R.V. aging will become fully integrated with the other wood-aging flavors. Tannins and a rich structure abv: NA Price: $NA elements over the next few months. This wine needs add to the density and potential. This wine will be time, so drink from 2023. Organic. DB Wine Selec- ready from 2023. Sommailier. —R.V. Château Peyreblanque 2018 Medeville Col- tion. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $27 89 lection (Graves). This wine has a dry core abv: 13.5% Price: $35 that shows strongly beside the black-currant fla- Château Ducasse 2018 Graves. This struc- vors. It is generous, with good potential in the fruit- Château Ferrande 2018 Graves. From one of 90 tured wine with generous tannins has a fine iness stakes as well as plenty of structure for aging. 92 the best-performing estates in the Graves future. Black fruits and the rich texture promise a Drink from 2023. Shiverick Imports. —R.V. appellation, this wine has rich tannins as well as wine that will be warm, full and packed with fruiti- abv: 13% Price: $30 dense black-currant fruits. It is a solid, dark and ness. Drink from 2022. Heritage Fine Wines. —R.V. likely long-lived wine. Drink from 2022. Luneau abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Château Tour de Calens 2018 Graves. This USA Inc. —R.V. 89 structured wine has firm tannins under abv: 13% Price: $27 Château Haut Selve 2018 Graves. The Graves the luscious blackberry fruits. Acidity and touches 90 estate is now on its 23rd vintage since the of spice bring balance and richness. The wine Château Haut Selve 2018 Réserve (Graves). purchase by the Lesgourgues family. This vintage should age well, filling out the tannins over the next 92 Low-yielding parcels of vines provide the has richness and a ripe line of black fruits that are months. Drink from 2022. The Wine List Inc. —R.V. fruit for this wood-aged wine. It has weight and a richly embedded in the still young tannic structure. abv: 13% Price: $22 serious side, emphasizing ripeness and powerful The wood aging has added spice to the mix. Drink concentration. The wine’s density will soften into this wine from 2023. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. Château Tour de Castres 2018 Graves. A richness and opulence. Drink from 2023. Baron abv: 14% Price: $25 89 modern, polished style of wine, this offers Francois Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. rich tannins, aromatic wood flavors and a good abv: 14% Price: $35 Château Saint-Robert 2018 Cuvée Poncet- structure. The density and concentration will take 90 Deville (Graves). Almost pure Merlot, this some time to soften, so drink from 2023. —R.V. wine comes from old vines that give rich, envelop- abv: 14.5% Price: $20

86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Château Camus 2018 Graves. The tannins bodied and suffers from a burn of pepper from the is hard to discern the fruit under the extraction and 88 are dense and richly concentrated in this high alcohol. Drink from 2023. HB Wine Merchants. wood aging. USA Wine West. —R.V. blackberry-flavored, structured wine. It is obviously —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 very young, showing its wood aging as well as suc- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 culent fruits and acidity. The wine will take its time, Château des Places 2018 Graves. This wine’s so drink from 2022. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. Château Haura 2018 Graves. From a property 85 dry tannins tend to mask the fruit and give abv: 13.5% Price: $24 87 belonging to the Dubourdieu family, this a firm, extracted character. The wine will soften wine is the baby brother of Clos Floridène. Light and open up a space for the fruits, but probably not Château Coustaut 2018 Graves. Fruity and and fruity with attractive black-currant flavors, the enough. DHI Selections. —R.V. 88 soft, this is already an attractive wine. Uno- wine still has some dryness but that will go shortly. abv: 14% Price: $38 aked and unfined, it has light tannins that are com- Drink from 2022. AP Wine Imports. —R.V. ing together with fresh black-currant fruits. The abv: 14.5% Price: $14 Marquis De Bern 2018 Graves. This wine wine will be ready from 2022. David Bowler Wine. 85 shows its alcoholic weight and has an aus- —R.V. Château La Rose Sarron 2018 Graves. A fresh tere, tannic character. The wine is dry and needs abv: 14% Price: $22 87 wine that has a core of firm, ageworthy tan- more fruitiness to blossom. Misa Imports. —R.V. nins, this shows fruitiness before dryness. It should abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Château Doms 2018 Graves. Big and ripe, age well and quickly. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. 88 this is a full-bodied, generous wine. Rich abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Château de Rieufret 2018 Agapes de Reiu- blackberry fruits and dark tannins burst with 84 fret (Graves). The winemaker was overen- energy and juicy acidity. Drink the wine from 2022. Château Mayne du Cros 2018 Graves. This thusiastic with his wood aging in this wine. After Misa Imports. —R.V. 87 wine is rich and firm, with solid dry tannins. two years, the new-wood plank character should abv: 14% Price: $25 The wine’s weight indicates fruitiness in its future have softened and it hasn’t. Cynthia Hurley Wine as the tannins soften. That will take time, so drink Imports. —R.V. Château du Mouret 2018 Medeville Collec- from 2023. Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 88 tion (Graves). This full, ripe and juicy wine —R.V. is full of balanced blackberry fruits. Tannins sup- abv: 14% Price: $22 Château Jouvente 2018 Graves. A dry, port this bright fruitiness while marching with the 84 extracted wine, this has bitter tannins that acidity towards some good aging. Drink from 2022. Château Saint-Robert 2019 Graves. Young mask touches of berry fruits. It is hard to see much Shiverick Imports. —R.V. 87 and somewhat rustic, this blend of Merlot future for this tough wine. Amphorium LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30 and Cabernet Sauvignon has blackberry fruits and abv: 14.5% Price: $29 a bitter edge of tannins. The future is suggested by Château Grand Abord 2018 Graves. This fruitiness and acidity at the end. Drink from 2022. 88 wine is firm and dry, with a bitter edge of Advantage International. —R.V. POMEROL extraction that needs to soften. It has freshness that abv: 13.5% Price: $23 will stand the wine in good stead as it move for- Château la Cabanne 2018 Pomerol. This ward. But wait for the wine to soften until 2022. Château de Beau-Site 2018 Graves. This 94 wine offers great fruits and sophisticated Vitis Imports. —R.V. 86 wine is dry, with touches of bitter extrac- wood-aging and spice flavors. The wine has weight, abv: 13% Price: $38 tion that lessen the fruitiness and balance. While it with rich berry flavors sustained by the dry core of will soften, it seems the wine will remain dry. —R.V. tannins. It also has perfumed fruits, hints of mint Château Lugaud 2018 Graves. This wine abv: 14.5% Price: $25 from the new wood and a good future. Drink this 88 is rich, but its acidity and red fruits are wine from 2025. Multiple U.S. importers. Cellar already balanced. There are some firm tannins in Château de Landiras 2018 Graves. Heavy Selection. —R.V. this young wine but the freshness and juiciness will 86 wood aging mars this wine. It confers a abv: 14.5% Price: $NA bring it forward quickly. Drink from late 2021. DHI toasty character, aromas of freshly sawn planks and Selections. —R.V. leaves little room for the fruit. The fruit is there, Chateau Grange-Neuve 2016 Pomerol. While abv: 14% Price: $29 but unlikely to get much of a chance. Master Brands 93 this wine, mainly Merlot, still has its struc- Distribution. —R.V. ture and dry core, it is just showing richness from Domaine du Salut 2018 Graves. While you abv: 13% Price: $NA the generous black fruits. The wine has power and 88 can taste the wood aging in this wine, there the potential for opulence. Drink from 2022. AP is also plenty of potential fruitiness to balance. The Château Jouvente 2018 La Source de Jou- Wine Imports. —R.V. black-currant flavors, spice and acidity mean the 86 vente (Graves). Dry and dense, this wine abv: 14% Price: $45 wine will be ready from 2022. Grand Cru Selec- has firm tannins that suggest heavy extraction. That tions. —R.V. should dissipate although tannins that dry could Chateau Grange-Neuve 2018 Pomerol. This abv: 13% Price: $20 well persist. Try the wine from 2022. Amphorium 92 is a rich, juicy and structured wine. Bold LLC. —R.V. tannins combine with black-currant flavors to give Château Boyrein 2018 Graves. In this per- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 a ripe wine, equally solid with fruit and tannin. It 87 fumed wine, serious layers of wood aging should develop well, bringing out fruit and smooth- currently mask the black-currant fruits. There is Château Pont de Brion 2018 Graves. This ing the texture. Drink from 2024. AP Wine Imports. enough weight to give potential richness and fresh- 86 wine lacks focus. Attractive black fruits are —R.V. ness, promising a balanced wine. Drink from 2022. a bit lost in the welter of dry tannins and extraction. abv: 14% Price: $45 Boivin Selections. —R.V. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $21 Château Haut-Maillet 2018 Pomerol. Domi- 92 nated by Merlot, this wine is still full of Château des Graves 2018 Graves. Firm, dry Château Venus 2018 Graves. Shadowed by dense tannins. But the jammy black fruits and gen- 87 and showing some signs of extraction, this 86 tannins and with a powerful structure, this erous texture point to a more open future. Succu- is a richly worked wine. Solid and dense in the wine may have too much dryness for its own good. It center and paired with black fruits, the wine is full

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BUYINGGUIDE lent and juicy, the wine will be ready from 2024. to shine. Drink from 2023. Adventures In Wine. Château Vieux Mazerat 2018 Saint-Émilion. Saranty Imports. —R.V. —R.V. 95 This wine comes from a prized vineyard on abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $40 the slopes of Saint-Émilion. It is beautifully propor- tioned, rich in tannins and lush with black fruits. Clos Beauregard 2018 Pomerol. Big, ripe and Château Altimar 2017 Solemnis (Lalande de More importantly it is well shaped, with the rich- 92 packed with opulent Merlot fruit, this wine 89 Pomerol). Smoky and tightly textured, this ness and power masked by finesse. Drink this wine is not shy. Its full black fruits and velvet tannins are wine is as tight with tannins as it is full of black from 2026. World’s End LLC. —R.V. luscious and will mature relatively quickly. Drink fruits. Its firm edges are not likely to soften fully. abv: 14.5% Price: $118 this rich wine from 2023. Advantage International. The aftertaste hints at a more juicy, fruity character. —R.V. Connoisseur Wines. —R.V. Les Astéries 2018 Saint-Émilion. This wine abv: 15% Price: $53 abv: 13.5% Price: $39 95 displays the textured, tight mineral charac- ter for which it has become known. It comes from a Château Haut Chatain 2018 Lalande de small parcel on the plateau of Saint-Émilion close LALANDE DE POMEROL 89 Pomerol. The power of the Merlot in this to the village. The wine combines powerful tannins wine is palpable. It is not a shy wine, instead packed and solid black fruits. Drink from 2026. World’s Château Altimar 2018 Solemnis (Lalande with black fruits and solid, rich tannins. The wine End LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 93 de Pomerol). The 90% Merlot in this wine has concentration and power, just spoiled by the abv: 15% Price: $135 defines its richness and dark power. Wood aging bite of alcohol at the end. Drink from 2022. Con- gives spice and a smoky character that will stay in noisseur Wines. —R.V. Château Yon Figeac 2018 Saint-Émilion. this ripe, full-bodied wine as it ages. It will develop abv: 15% Price: $27 94 This is one of the many wines associated well, the tannins ready to soften and the fruit pow- with the Figeac sector of Saint-Émilion. It has the erful and dense. Drink from 2023. Connoisseur Château Sergant 2018 Lalande de Pomerol. unusual addition for the area of Petit Verdot, which Wines. —R.V. 89 This Merlot-dominated wine offers solid darkens the color and enhances tannins. It is a rich, abv: 14.5% Price: $39 black fruits and rich tannins. It suffers a little from full wine, solid and serious, full of promising tan- the high alcohol and bitter extraction flavors, with nins and black fruits. The wine will age well and Château Altimar 2018 Lalande de Pomerol. hope that these go as the wine ages. Drink from over a good many years. Drink from 2025. Advan- 92 Dark and rich, this is a strongly structured 2023. Advantage International. —R.V. tage International. —R.V. wine, with a majority of Cabernet Franc. Big tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 14% Price: $44 nins go with dark-chocolate flavors to contrast with black-plum fruits and general richness. Drink Château Altimar 2017 Lalande de Pomerol. Le Carré 2018 Saint-Émilion. A small parcel this ripe, perfumed wine from 2023. Connoisseur 88 The lightness of this vintage is apparent in 94 close to the city of Saint-Émilion produces Wines. —R.V. the black-currant fruits and dry core of this wine. It this luscious wine. Black fruits mask the serious abv: 14.5% Price: $35 is not likely to develop very far, but is attractive to tannins and solid base of a wine that will certainly drink now. Connoisseur Wines. —R.V. age. It is a full, powerful wine that will be ready to Château Vieux Cardinal Lafaurie 2018 Lal- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 drink from 2025. World’s End LLC. —R.V. 92 ande de Pomerol. A bold, smoky and gener- abv: 14.5% Price: $90 ous wine, this shows perfumed wood-aging flavors Château Canon Chaigneau 2018 Lalande as well as ripe blackberry fruits. Dominated by Mer- 88 de Pomerol. This smoky, spicy wine is still Château Croix de Labrie 2018 Saint-Émilion. lot, but with a good proportion of Cabernet Franc, young. Wood-aging flavors show more strongly than 93 This wine from Pierre and Axelle Cour- the wine should age well. Drink from 2022. MHW, the perfumed black fruits but that will change. It durié’s small Saint-Émilion estate is a powerful Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. has a good future, so drink from 2024. Adventures reminder of the richness of the vintage. Its solid abv: 13.5% Price: $30 In Wine. —R.V. tannins and concentrated black fruits are impres- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 sive, dark with a structure that needs to age. The Château Bourseau 2018 Lalande de Pomerol. wine will take its time, so don’t drink before 2025. 91 In this wine, rich berry flavors cover the firm Château Canon Chaigneau 2012 Lalande de —R.V. structure that brings in tannins and wood-aging fla- 88 Pomerol. Beginning to show its age, this abv: 14.5% Price: $NA vors. The black fruits are ripe, spicy and laden with wine is still attractively balanced. Its maturity is jammy, succulent Merlot. Drink from 2023. Misa expressed in spiciness that is balanced by a dry edge Château Fleur Cardinale 2018 Saint-Émilion. Imports. —R.V. as well as a vegetal flavor. This wine is totally ready 93 The Decoster family, formerly producers of abv: 14.5% Price: $35 to drink. Adventures In Wine. —R.V. porcelain in Limoges, have given this estate consid- abv: 13% Price: $45 erable luster. This latest release shows a solid char- Château Canon Chaigneau 2015 Lalande de acter, powered by dark tannins, hints of licorice and 91 Pomerol. The estate lies in the village of Néac. Château Canon Chaigneau 2011 Lalande de rich fruit. Cabernet Franc aromas shine through the At five years old, this wine is just beginning to show 85 Pomerol. This wine is definitely old, a curi- jammy Merlot. Drink from 2025. —R.V. signs of maturity, with tannins that are smooth- osity. Its tannins are dense and have already left the abv: 14.5% Price: $NA ing out and blackberry fruits and generous Merlot fruit behind. Like so many wines from this vintage it flavors coming forward. Drink the wine from late has moved from tannic youth straight to tannic old Château Jean Faure 2018 Saint-Émilion. This 2021. Adventures In Wine. —R.V. age. Adventures In Wine. —R.V. 93 Saint-Émilion classed growth shows dense abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 13% Price: $45 black fruits, dominated by structured and perfumed Cabernet Franc. The richness is palpable, with Château Canon Chaigneau 2016 Lalande de blackberry and dark damson-plum flavors giving 90 Pomerol. This wine has the dry tannins of SAINT-ÉMILION acidity. Solid tannins come both from the fruit and the vintage at this stage, which give a dense charac- the wood aging. The wine has a fine journey ahead ter that needs to soften and open out. As the under- Le Dôme 2018 Saint-Émilion. For full review of it. Drink from 2025. Organic and biodynamic. J.J. lying berry fruits come forward, this wine will begin 97 see page 3. Cellar Selection. Buckley Fine Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $210 abv: 13.5% Price: $70

88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Château Petit Faurie de Soutard 2018 Saint- tured wine. Mint perfumes from the wood aging are Château Teyssier 2018 Saint-Émilion. Big 93 Émilion. This blend of 80% Merlot and balanced by the concentrated black-plum fruit. This 90 and rich, this balanced and accessible wine 20% Cabernet Franc brings out the huge richness is a big wine, ready to age. Drink from 2024. BNP is generous both with its black fruits and smooth of the year but tempers it with structure and age- Distributing. —R.V. texture. The density and core of tannins do not ability. The weight and concentration contrast with abv: 14.5% Price: $35 detract from the full, fruity character. The wine will fresher black currants that come through at the end. develop quickly. Drink from 2023. World’s End LLC. Drink from 2025. Advantage International. Cellar Château Bardoulet 2016 Saint-Émilion. From Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Selection. —R.V. 91 a vineyard on the eastern side of Saint-Émil- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $37 ion, this wine offers stylish Merlot that is fresh and well balanced. The supple texture is underpinned Château Billeron Bouquey 2018 Saint-­ Vieux Château des Combes 2018 Saint-Émil- by tannins that are now just soft enough. The wine, 88 Émilion. This 80–20 Merlot and Cabernet 93 ion. An estate once associated with Bene- though, is still fresh and will age further. Drink from Franc blend has stylish richness. It is juicy, with dictine monks has produced this dark and concen- 2022. Advantage International. —R.V. succulent blackberry flavors that offer relief from trated wine. Big tannins promise a full, rich future abv: 14% Price: $26 the powerful tannins. The wine has weight and that will be freshened by the black-currant fruits. structure but is sure to soften. Drink from 2024. The wine will need time, so wait to drink until Château Cantin 2018 Saint-Émilion. A struc- Advantage International. —R.V. 2024. Advantage International. Editors’ Choice. 91 tured wine, this comes from a vineyard abv: 14% Price: $26 —R.V. around a 17th-century chateau. It has tannins, per- abv: 15% Price: $34 fumes from the Cabernets in the blend and a rich Château de l’Annonciation 2017 Saint-­ future. Drink this powerful wine from 2024. Advan- 88 Émilion. A dry wine, this is textured while Château Ascumbas 2018 Cuvée Saint Vincent tage International. —R.V. also having a light touch. Black-currant fruits are 92 (Saint-Émilion). This richly structured wine abv: 15% Price: $43 beginning to show promise and release their per- with layers of black tannins and solid berry fruits fumed character. Drink this balanced wine from shows good concentration. Spice from wood aging Château Croix de Labrie 2018 Chapelle de Lab- 2023. DHI Selections. —R.V. and perfumes from Cabernet Franc contribute to 91 rie (Saint-Émilion). The second wine of Croix abv: 12.5% Price: $25 the wine’s generous completeness. It has plenty of de Labrie, this offers rich black fruits and a smooth potential, so drink from 2023. Advantage Interna- texture. Tannins have already softened into the ripe Château de Monturon 2018 Saint-Émilion. tional. —R.V. black fruits that are packed with black-plum-skin 88 While superripe Merlot dominates this abv: 13.5% Price: $26 flavors, with an immediately accessible juicy fruiti- wine, the finer structure of the Cabernet Franc add ness. Drink the wine from 2023. —R.V. shape and firmness. The wine will age well. Drink Château Cadet-Bon 2018 Saint-Émilion. Big, abv: 14% Price: $NA from 2022. Advantage International. —R.V. 92 bold black fruits and rich tannins give struc- abv: 14% Price: $26 ture to this solid, dense and concentrated wine. It Château Franc Lartigue 2018 Saint-Émilion. shows maybe a tad too much alcohol, but that will 91 Bold and rich, this ripe black-currant-fla- Château Laforge 2018 Saint-Émilion. This go as this Merlot and Cabernet Franc blend ages. vored wine come from vineyards on the plain below 88 wine is superrich, heavy on the alcohol Drink from 2024. Advantage International. —R.V. Saint-Émilion center. With the rich Merlot domi- initially but then showing layers of black fruits, abv: 14.5% Price: $53 nant, the wine has density and concentration that rich tannins and some aging potential. As the wine will allow it to age. Drink from 2023. Lanterna Dis- comes together it is likely to coalesce around the Château de l’Annonciation 2018 Saint-­ tributors Inc. —R.V. rich black-plum and spice flavors. Drink from 2024. 92 Émilion. This ripe wine already has an abv: 14% Price: $49 World’s End LLC. —R.V. attractive balance between structure and black- abv: 15% Price: $35 berry fruits. The smoky, dry character will soften as Château Altimar 2018 Puy Versannes (Saint- it ages. The wine will mature well. Drink from 2024. 90 Émilion). Although it is based in Lalande de Château Vieux Pourret 2018 Saint-Émilion. DHI Selections. —R.V. Pomerol, the estate also has vines in Saint-Émilion. 87 This smooth, velvet-textured wine is rich abv: 13.5% Price: $25 This wine with its elegant proportion of Cabernet and advancing well. Tannins and black fruits have Franc is structured and ageworthy. It has a poised been softened by wood aging to give a generous wine Château Fleur Cardinale 2018 Intuition de freshness, with juicy acidity and texture from the that will be attractive from 2023. Advantage Inter- 92 Fleur Cardinale (Saint-Émilion). This second dry core. Drink from 2022. Connoisseur Wines. national. —R.V. wine of Fleur Cardinale is ripe and on the fruity —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $26 side, with fine tannins that are already integrated abv: 14.5% Price: $28 with the structure of sweet tannins. Dominated by Merlot, it is a fruity, succulent wine that will Château Croix Cardinale 2018 Saint-Émilion. LUSSAC SAINT-ÉMILION develop quickly. Drink from 2023. —R.V. 90 This smoothly rich wine comes from an abv: 14.5% Price: $NA estate under the same ownership as cru classé Fleur Château la Perrière 2018 Lussac Saint- Cardinale. It is spicy, dense with blackberry fruits 92 Émilion. A bold, ripe and juicy wine, this Château Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac and swathes of ripeness. This opulent wine will age is developing well. Its big tannins and satisfying 92 2018 Saint-Émilion. Vineyards in the west of relatively quickly. Drink from 2023. —R.V. blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc show potential Saint-Émilion have produced this well-structured, abv: 14.5% Price: $NA richness and structure. Blackberry and black-plum balanced wine. Although still young, the rich tan- flavors are impressive. Drink from 2023. Aquitaine nins and blackberry flavors have great promise. It Château la Rose Beauséjour 2018 Saint- Wine Company. —R.V. shows good equilibrium between fruit and dense 90 Émilion. With rich black fruits and jammy abv: 14% Price: $45 structure and needs more time. Drink from 2025. Merlot flavors, this wine is open and powerful. Champagnes & Châteaux USA. —R.V. Wood aging and tannins combine to smooth the Château du Courlat 2016 Lussac Saint-Émil- abv: 13.5% Price: $40 fruit and bring a core of dryness, which will allow 90 ion. Black, solid and richly structured, this the wine to age. Drink from 2023. Wine Wine Situ- wine is all about its dark fruits and dry core. A sug- Château la Confession 2018 Saint-Émilion. ation LLC. —R.V. gestion of too much extraction gives a dry edge to 92 Dark tannins dominate this richly struc- abv: 14% Price: $30 the wine while the rich tannins of the year are still a

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BUYINGGUIDE major factor. It should soften, so it’s best to wait for Château Beauséjour 2018 Puisseguin Saint- tannins. The wine will be ready from 2023. Blicker the rich fruits to come through from 2022. Artisans 91 Émilion. A generous, rich and velvet-textured Pierce Wagner Wine Merchants. —R.V. & Vines. —R.V. wine, this is full bodied and opulent. A core of tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $19 abv: 14% Price: $30 nins gives aging promise, but the blackberry fruits are cushioning and plump, imparting fruitiness. Château de Belcier 2018 Cuvée B (Castillon Château du Courlat 2015 Lussac Saint-Émil- Drink from 2024. Organic. T. Edward Wines Ltd. 90 Côtes de Bordeaux). The high percentage 89 ion. This is a heavily structured and weighty —R.V. of Cabernet Franc in this blend gives it an elegant wine. Powerful dark Merlot flavors are dominated abv: 14% Price: $36 and perfumed character. It contrasts with the by the dry core that is still developing. Blackberry more jammy Merlot to give the wine stylish rich- flavors will come through over the next few months, Barons Edmond Benjamin de Rothschild ness. Drink from 2022. Vintage Imports (Colorado). so this wine will be best from late 2021. Artisans & 90 2016 L’Enclos des Domaines Edmond de —R.V. Vines. —R.V. Rothschild (Puisseguin Saint-Émilion). This is a abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $30 stylish, if also powerful, wine. Layers of black fruits and dark tannins give the wine weight. The 20% Domaine Gonzague Maurice 2017 Cuvée Cabernet Franc in the blend brings in its ineffable 89 Victor (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). This MONTAGNE-SAINT-ÉMILION perfume and structure. Drink the wine from 2023. producer, with vines also in Saint-Émilion satel- Advantage International. —R.V. lite villages, has crafted a balanced, ripe and fruity Domaine Gonzague Maurice 2015 La Folie abv: 14% Price: $50 wine. Tannins are happily integrated into the black- 91 (Montagne-Saint-Émilion). This dark, still currant flavors. The Merlot gives boldness to this dry and firmly structured wine comes from vines Domaine Gonzague Maurice 2015 Clos du generous wine. Drink from 2022. USA Wine West. surrounding an 18th-century tower (the folly). The 90 Pavillon (Puisseguin Saint-Émilion). This —R.V. rich tannins and black fruits are still developing and bold, rich wine comes from a six-acre vineyard abv: 14.5% Price: $15 moving towards generous richness. This wine has a planted at a high density. Tannins and black-fruit fine future ahead of it. Drink from 2022. Lanterna flavors have softened into one other, just hinting at Distributors Inc. —R.V. dark chocolate and a dry core. This concentrated, GRAVES DE VAYRES abv: 14% Price: $35 dark wine is ready to drink. Lanterna Distributors Inc. —R.V. Château Cantelaudette 2018 Grand Vin Château la Papeterie 2018 Montagne-Saint- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 92 (Graves de Vayres). Aged for 12 months in 90 Émilion. Almost entirely Merlot, this gen- wood, this wine is richly dense with solid tannins, erous wine is packed with black-plum fruits. Rich dark blackberry flavors and ripe smokiness. The tannins, spice and touches of licorice go with the CASTILLON CÔTES DE wine is generous and full in the mouth, with a struc- bold fruits and structure. The wine will be ready BORDEAUX ture that will soften very satisfactorily. Drink from from 2023. Saranty Imports. —R.V. 2023. Artisans & Vines. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA Château de Belcier 2018 Le Pin de Belcier abv: 14.5% Price: $32 92 (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). A perfumed, Château Guillou 2018 Montagne-Saint-­ wood-aged wine, this has richness and complexity. Château Cantelaudette 2016 Cuvée Prestige 89 Émilion. Richness in this blend comes from Warm, ripe tannins show dryness at this stage but 91 (Graves de Vayres). This wood-aged wine the 90% of Merlot, which brings rich blackberry- are imminently turning into a generous support for with its rich, jammy Merlot is now just mature. jam flavors laced with acidity. The structure and the black-plum fruits. This wine has a fine future. The black fruits and firm tannins are there but have ripeness suggest the wine will be ready soon. Drink Wait to drink until 2023. Vintage Imports (Colo- softened into a comfortable relationship. With the this ripe, attractive wine from late 2021. Advantage rado). —R.V. smoky character coming through to add complexity, International. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 the wine is now ready to drink. Artisans & Vines. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 —R.V. Château Mauperey 2018 Castillon Côtes de abv: 14% Price: $24 Château Faizeau 2018 Sélection Vieilles 92 Bordeaux. A blend of Cabernet Franc and 87 Vignes (Montagne-Saint-Émilion). This Merlot, this wine has fruitiness, richness and struc- Château Cantelaudette 2015 Grand Vin 30-acre estate has produced an immensely rich ture. Tannins are cushioned by generous, vibrant 91 (Graves de Vayres). In this wine, dusty tan- wine, perhaps too rich. It does suffer from super- black-plum fruits that will bear further aging. Rich nins are richly integrated into the mature fruits and ripe, jammy Merlot flavors that swamp the wine. If and full, the wine will best from 2023. Fruit of the acidity. Produced from selected parcels, the wine is it all calms down, the wine will be ready from 2023. Vines, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. concentrated, ripe and generous with black cher- Wine.com. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $12 ries and dark spice. Drink the wine now. Artisans abv: 15% Price: $22 & Vines. —R.V. Château Beynat 2018 Cuvée Léonard (Castil- abv: 14.5% Price: $33 91 lon Côtes de Bordeaux). Named after Léonard PUISSEGUIN SAINT-ÉMILION Nebout who was a founder of this estate, this gener- Château Cantelaudette 2019 San Soufre ous wine was produced from old vines. It offers firm 87 Ajouté (Graves de Vayres). With no added Château Beauséjour 2015 Old Vines (Puisse- tannins along with swathes of black-currant fruits sulfur, this wine has a slight metallic edge along 92 guin Saint-Émilion). A richly perfumed, full- and richness. Drink from 2023. Organic. G. Montot with bright cherry flavors that are fresh and packed bodied wine, this has dense tannins and equally Wines. —R.V. with fruitiness. The wine needs a little time to open dense black fruits. With a firm hold on the struc- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 out fully, so drink from 2022. Artisans & Vines. ture, the wine will will age well, giving concentra- —R.V. tion and powerful fruits. Drink now, but the wine Château Bréhat 2018 Castillon Côtes de Bor- abv: 14.5% Price: $24 will be better from 2022. Wine Wine Situation LLC. 91 deaux. A south-facing vineyard on the slope —R.V. above the city of Castillon has yielded this generous, Château Cantelaudette 2018 Graves de abv: 14% Price: $70 rich and juicy wine. Black fruits are already shin- 87 Vayres. Celebrating the ripe berry fruits ing with ripeness, about to burst out through the of the vintage, this wine is rich while also having a young structure and acidity, which suggest aging

90 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 potential. The wine is likely to be ready from 2022. the wine to retain this tension. Drink now. JP Bour- fruits that are still fresh but ready to drink. MHW, Artisans & Vines. —R.V. geois. —R.V. Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: 13% Price: $20

Château de Malherbes 2017 Cadillac Côtes Château Croix Mouton 2019 Bordeaux Supéri- CÔTES DE BOURG 88 de Bordeaux. This ripe, wood-aged wine is 87 eur. From land originally planted to vines by just ready to drink. It has the lightness of the vin- the Romans, this wine is smoky, dense and blackly Château de Passedieu 2018 Côtes de Bourg. tage, with blackberry fruits and attractive acidity. rich. Bold plum fruits and tannins that are on the 91 A powerful and full-bodied wine still with Tannins give backbone but are now fully integrated. cusp of softening are the prominent features of this some signs of wood aging, this is rich with black Drink now or wait until late 2021. JP Bourgeois. mainly Merlot wine. Drink from 2022. BNP Distrib- fruits and seriously structured with tannins. Its —R.V. uting. —R.V. spicy character, hints of toast and dry core all point abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $16 to ageworthiness. Drink this wine from 2023. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. Château de Macard 2018 Tradition (Bordeaux abv: 14% Price: $11 BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR 87 Supérieur). A jammy, ripe and lightly tex- tured wine, this has delicious smoky black fruits Château de la Grave 2016 Caractère (Côtes Château Timberlay 2018 Bordeaux Supéri- and juicy acidity. Fruit cushions the wine’s smooth 90 de Bourg). The top wine from this estate, 90 eur. From a vineyard in the northern Bor- structure and acidity. It is ready to drink. The Wine this is densely textured and rich with dry tannins deaux region, this ripe, spicy wine is packed with Source. —R.V. and juicy black-plum-skin flavors. The wine has dark fruits and worth aging. Rich tannins march abv: 14.5% Price: $25 weight, concentration and a fine future. Drink from with dark berry flavors to give a dense, full-bodied 2023. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. wine. Age this wine and drink from 2022. Terlato Kirkland Signature 2018 Bordeaux Supérieur. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Wines International. —R.V. 87 Produced in the Entre-deux-Mers, this wine abv: 14% Price: $20 is perfumed and lightly structured, with attractive, Château de la Grave 2018 Côtes de Bourg. ripe wood-aged black-currant flavors. It is fruity 89 Firm and tannic, this wine needs to soften. Château Féret-Lambert 2018 Costes du Châ- but with a texture that gives shape as well as acces- Its dense structure is very much in control, although 89 teau Féret-Lambert (Bordeaux Supérieur). sibility. Drink now. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. the black fruits are there. It needs time, so drink This is a rich, Merlot-dominated wine, with gen- abv: 14.5% Price: $8 from 2022. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. erous tannins and structure. Youthful juicy black abv: 13.5% Price: $18 fruits are perfumed, fragrant with acidity and a suc- culent texture. Drink this wine from 2022. Aquita- BORDEAUX Château Peychaud 2018 Côtes de Bourg. ine Wine Company. —R.V. 88 This long-established vineyard has pro- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Château Bois Pertuis 2018 Bordeaux. This duced a wood-aged wine, ripe with red fruits and 88 wine reflects the vintage, showing bold still structured with a core of dry tannins. With a Château Ribebon 2018 Tradition (Bordeaux black fruits and high alcohol. It is full bodied, gen- high percentage of Merlot in the blend, it is suc- 89 Supérieur). This estate close to Castillon erous to a fault with succulent flavors and a well- culent, full bodied and shows its alcohol. It will be has produced a tight, spicy and structured wine. integrated texture. Drink now to revel in the exuber- ready to drink from 2022. Advantage International. Rich tannins are still working through the wine, giv- ant fruits, or age until 2022 to get a softer, broader —R.V. ing it the density to age. The wine will be at its best view. Advantage International. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $17 from 2022. The Wine Source. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Château Perthus 2018 Côtes de Bourg. At Château Jacquet de la Grave 2019 Bordeaux. 87 98% Merlot, this wine is packed with rich Château de Ribebon 2018 Cabernet Franc 88 With 80% Merlot and equal quantities of black fruits and the beginnings of jammy richness. 88 (Bordeaux Supérieur). Ripe and perfumed, the two Cabernets, this wine is young, spicy and There are still tannins to soften and an oxidative this is an unusual wine, with 80% Cabernet Franc. rich with black-currant flavors and tannins. The edge to disappear before the wine is ready. Drink It comes from the region of Castillon in the east of wine’s structure and smoky character point to from 2022. Advantage International. —R.V. Bordeaux. Red berries are allied to a smoky charac- aging. Drink from 2022. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $17 ter and spice from wood aging in a rich wine that abv: 14% Price: $15 will age further. Drink from 2022. Serge Doré Selec- tions. —R.V. Château La Rose Montauran 2018 Bordeaux. CADILLAC CÔTES DE abv: 14.5% Price: $55 88 This estate in the heart of the Entre-deux- BORDEAUX Mers region has produced a perfumed and fruity Château Grand Français 2018 Grande Cuvée wine. Although a little young at the moment, it Château Peybrun 2016 Cuvée Colombe 88 (Bordeaux Supérieur). This wine comes offers ripe black fruits, acidity and light tannins. 90 (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). Produced from a vineyard to the north of Saint-Émilion. Ripe This polished wine will be ready from 2022. T. from a three-acre parcel, this wine is richly endowed tannins and attractive black-currant fruits suggest Elenteny Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. with layers of Merlot. It has good balance between a wine that will develop easily and quickly. An inte- abv: 14.5% Price: $12 the blackberry fruits and acidity, with tannins pro- grated structure contrasts with the final freshness. viding ballast for the freshness. Drink now. David Drink from 2022. Organic. JP Bourgeois. —R.V. Château de Bordes-Quancard 2018 Bordeaux. Bowler Wine. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 87 A soft, attractively fruity wine, this is fresh abv: 13% Price: $22 with black currants and plenty of acidity. While it is Château Haut-Liloie 2016 Bordeaux Supéri- young and could age, it is best to appreciate it now Château de Malherbes 2014 Grand Vin 88 eur. This wine shows structure and firm with the fruitiness right up front. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. 89 (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). Aged in new tannins from the Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. abv: 13% Price: $17 wood, this mature wine still shows signs of toasti- It has concentration as well as brighter blackberry ness. That gives it a prominent dry core that tastes Château des Hautes Combes 2019 Bordeaux. as strongly as the wine’s secondary flavors. Expect 87 A bright and fruity wine, this shows a supple

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BUYINGGUIDE texture and attractive red fruits. It could be drunk Blanc. That gives the wine concentration while pre- in its youthful vibrancy, but might be better from OTHER RED WINES serving tangy, citrus Sauvignon flavors balanced by 2022. Organic. Black Hawk Imports. Best Buy. touches of spice. The wine is ripe, full in the mouth —R.V. Château Grand-Puy Ducasse 2018 Prélude and likely to be better in late 2021. Organic. Mar- abv: 14.5% Price: $12 92 à Grand-Puy Ducasse (Pauillac). Produced tine’s Wines. —R.V. from the youngest vines at this classed growth abv: 14.5% Price: $41 Château Haut Boutisse 2019 Bordeaux. Softly estate, this wine has good balance between per- 87 textured, fruity and young, this is a generous fumed wood aging and buoyant black fruits. The Château Tour des Gendres 2019 Cuvée des blend of a majority Cabernet Franc with Merlot. The tannins and dense structure promise aging although 91 Conti (Bergerac Sec). The addition of Mus- wine is all blackberry flavors, with a hint of smoki- the wine is likely to develop relatively quickly as cadelle to this rich blend of Sémillon and Sauvi- ness. Drink from 2022. Latitude Wines, Inc. —R.V. befits a second wine. Drink from 2024. —R.V. gnon Blanc gives a ripe wine, with tropical fruits abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA to complement the kiwi and lime flavors. The wine is young, but already very drinkable. Organic. Mar- Baron la Rose 2018 Bordeaux. An open, Château Haut Baillou 2018 Blaye Côtes de tine’s Wines. —R.V. 86 lightly spicy and fruity wine, this is fresh 91 Bordeaux. Pure Merlot, this wine is luscious abv: 14% Price: $21 with black currants. The wood aging is just right, and rich. It still has tannins but these give the ripe giving vanilla to go with the fruitiness. Drink now. plum fruits concentration and potential succulence. Le Clos du Breil 2020 Bergerac Sec. This T. Elenteny Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. Wood aged, the wine needs time to develop its full 84 fresh, crisp Sauvignon Blanc, with just a abv: 13% Price: $10 potential. Drink from 2022. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. touch of Sémillon, is lively, with citrus and kiwi fla- abv: 14.5% Price: $19 vors. Tangy with a streak of lemon zest, it is refresh- Château de Bernardon 2018 Bordeaux. This ingly ready to drink. —R.V. 86 bright, ripe and soft wine shows the rich- Château Belugue 2018 Fronsac. Almost abv: 12.5% Price: $9 ness of the vintage. The open texture brings out the 90 entirely Merlot, this smooth, ripely tex- red fruits and acidity. It is ready to drink. T. Elen- tured wine has generous black fruits that show well teny Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. against the background of firm tannins and solid SAINT MONT abv: 14.5% Price: $10 wood-aging flavors. The wine will be ready from 2025. JP Bourgeois. —R.V. Plaimont 2018 Le Faîte Blanc (Saint Mont). Château Moulin de la Faye 2018 Bordeaux. abv: 14.5% Price: $29 92 Gros Manseng, Arrufiac and Petit Courbu 86 This vineyard in the Entre-deux-Mers come together in this dry blend. The rich, honeyed region has given a rich and full, black-fruited wine. Château Cap d’Or 2018 Saint-Georges-Saint- character also emphasizes the acidity and the pear Ripe tannins are lifted by acidity although the after- 90 Émilion. From a village north of Saint-Émil- and kiwi fruits, shot through with spice and pepper taste does leave the pepper and bitterness of high ion, this chocolate- and black-fruit flavored wine is from wood aging. Drink this wine from 2022. Brick- alcohol. Drink from 2022. Advantage International. young, dense and firm with tannins. A succulent ell Wines LLC. —R.V. —R.V. edge promises well for the future of this powerful abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $17 blend with its 86% Merlot. Drink from 2023. Z Wine Gallery Imports. —R.V. Plaimont 2010 Le Faîte Blanc (Saint Mont). Château Tour Chapoux 2019 Bordeaux. Sim- abv: 14.5% Price: $19 92 The result of a tasting by two wine profes- 86 ple, young and fruity, this has ripe black sionals, this is a rich blend, now mature, of Gros fruits shot through with crisp acidity and supported Château Peyredoulle 2018 Blaye Côtes de Manseng, Arrufiac and Petit Courbu. It shows the by light tannins. With 60% Merlot, its future as a 90 Bordeaux. This estate that dates to the 16th wide variety and longevity of local grapes in the ripe, jammy wine is assured. Drink from late 2021. century is producing some attractive, ripe wines, Gascony region. Offering spice, lemon and a mature MHW, Ltd. —R.V. such as this one. Rich black fruits and minerality perfumed character, this enticing wine is ready to abv: 14.5% Price: $15 point towards a textured, ripe wine that will age. drink. Brickell Wines LLC. —R.V. Drink this generous wine from 2022. Advantage abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Château Camarsan 2019 Bordeaux. This International. —R.V. 85 young wine has fresh black-plum and berry abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Plaimont 2009 Château Saint-Go (Saint fruits and gentle tannins, The three main Bordeaux 91 Mont). The gold color shows that this is a grapes make a comfortable blend that will soften mature wine and one that conveys the aging power and broaden over the next months. Drink from SOUTHWEST FRANCE of the Gros Manseng grape. Keeping a strong citrus 2022. Black Hawk Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. character along with tight acidity, it also brings in abv: 12.5% Price: $10 WHITE WINES more tropical flavors and ripe spiciness. This is a lesson in longevity. Drink the wine now. Brickell Château Vieux Manoir 2019 Bordeaux. This BERGERAC SEC Wines LLC. —R.V. 85 estate in the Entre-deux-Mers about 30 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 miles from Bordeaux has produced a wine that has Château Tour des Gendres 2019 Conti-ne attractive black-currant fruits, fresh acidity and a 93 Périgourdine (Bergerac Sec). The estate is medium-term potential. Young now, it will be ready in a region known as Périgord and this wine’s name JURANÇON SEC to drink from 2023. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. comes from a local folk song featured on the label. abv: 13% Price: $12 Perfumed, concentrated Muscadelle gives the wine Lapeyre 2015 Mantoulan (Jurançon Sec). a rare richness as well as fresh intensity. It will be 93 With the honeyed freshness of Petit Man- Château la Commanderie de Combeau 2018 ready to drink from late 2021. Martine’s Wines. seng, this dry wine has ripeness, apricot and crisp 84 Bordeaux. This lightly fruity wine has per- —R.V. lemon fruits and a texture that pushes the wine for- fumed berry flavors and a light touch of tannin. The abv: 13.5% Price: $36 ward into a rich future. Full in the mouth, the wine wine is juicy, fresh and ready to drink. Artisans & will likely be ready from 2022. Organic. Charles Vines. —R.V. Château Tour des Gendres 2019 Moulin des Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14 92 Dames Parcelle A296 (Bergerac Sec). This abv: 14% Price: $40 wine comes from a parcel of mainly old Sauvignon

92 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Lapeyre 2016 Vitatge Vielh (Jurançon Sec). flavors that are still young and vibrant. This wine be drunk before 2023. Organic. Martine’s Wines. 92 From vines dating back to the 1940s, this will age for many years and will be at its mellifluous —R.V. wine is rich in its intensity and concentration. best from 2023. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA Powerful and ripe green fruit and citrus flavors abv: 13% Price: $42 are lightly touched with honey, typical of the two Le Clos du Breil 2018 Lei Peires (Côtes de Manseng grapes. It is now ready to drink. Organic. Lapeyre 2016 Balaguéra (Jurançon). Pro- 91 Bergerac). Aged for over a year in new wood, Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. 93 duced from late-harvest fruit, this wine is this wine has a spicy, toasty character. But that abv: 14% Price: $26 intense with the sweetness and superb acidity that plays a supporting role to the rich black-currant mark a fine Jurançon. Orange freshness and zest are fruits and serious tannins from the 90% Cabernet Lapeyre 2019 Lapeyre Sec (Jurançon Sec). touched by honey, with a good balance that allows Sauvignon in the blend. The wine is ready to age 89 Rich, dense and textured, this wine has the wine to age further. Drink at its best in 2022. further. Drink from 2023. —R.V. both freshness and a taut, mineral character. The Organic. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $21 zesty texture is just right, ready to drink with ripe abv: 12% Price: $60 apple-skin and citrus-zest flavors. Organic. Charles Château Tour des Gendres 2019 Cuvée des Neal Selections. —R.V. Lapeyre 2019 Lapeyre Moelleux (Jurançon). 89 Conti (Côtes de Bergerac). A soft and fruity abv: 13.5% Price: $18 88 Young and poised between sweetness and blend of Merlot and Malbec, this wine is lightly tex- dryness, this wine has the good acidity that comes tured, with red-berry fruits and vibrant acidity. The from the two Manseng grapes. Orange zest and wine is still young, packed with fruitiness that can OTHER WHITE WINES fruitiness give freshness, with a rich undercurrent be enjoyed now, although it will be even better from from the late-harvest fruit. Drink the wine now. 2022. Organic. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. Domaine Borie-Vieille 2019 Confidences Organic. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $21 89 Prunelard (Côtes du Tarn). Prunelard was abv: 12.5% Price: $20 largely forgotten in Gaillac before the efforts of a Le Clos du Breil 2018 Expression (Côtes de few growers brought it back to the vineyards and 89 Bergerac). Dominated by structured, per- into wines such as this. It has given a rich, luscious OTHER SWEET WINES fumed Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is juicy with wine, generous to a fault, and with the tannins and acidity and rich with wood-aged black fruits and acidity to allow it to age. Ripe black fruits are right Château Suau 2018 Barsac. While already generous tannins. The wine is for aging and will be up front at the moment but will soften. Drink from 93 well balanced, this wine is still very young. ready to drink from 2022. Best Buy. —R.V. 2022. Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. Best Its poise between apricot and honey flavors and the abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Buy. —R.V. dry core of botrytis is starting to develop. There is abv: 14% Price: $14 liquorous richness to this wine, along with essential touches of freshness. Drink the wine from 2024. CAHORS Famille Laplace 2018 Odé d’Aydie (Pacher- Multiple U.S. importers. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 89 enc du Vic Bilh). The two Manseng grapes abv: 13% Price: $29/500 ml Château de Chambert 2015 Grand Vin come together in this rich wine that is full of white 94 (Cahors). A selection of the best parcels fruits, with riper hints of pineapple. The wine is Domaine Rotier 2016 Renaissance Vendan- of this estate, this is a perfumed, wood-aged wine. still young and full of fruitiness, with concentrated 92 ges Tardives (Gaillac). This late-harvest Rich in mature tannins while the texture remains acidity that needs to soften. Drink the wine from wine is ripe, and liquorous, with a smooth, luscious dense and concentrated, the wine has great heft and 2022. Wineberry America LLC. —R.V. texture. The rich Loin de l’Oeil grapes give honey, structure. Now just mature, it still offers impressive abv: 13.5% Price: $24 apricots and orange-marmalade flavors. Drink this life and fruit. Drink now or wait until at least 2022. wine now. Organic. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. Organic and biodynamic. MS Walker. Cellar Selec- Domaine Rotier 2019 Les Gravels Blanc abv: 12% Price: $44 tion. —R.V. 88 (Gaillac). The local Loin de l’Oeil grape (the abv: 14% Price: $75 name means far from the eye, because it’s difficult to spot the bunches) makes up 85% of this wine, SOUTHWEST FRANCE Château du Cèdre 2018 Le Cèdre Extra Libre giving it lemon and kiwi fruit flavors. These gain 94 (Cahors). The top wine of this estate, this richness from touches of spice and creamed pear. RED WINES was bottled without added sulfur and is developing Drink this perfumed, still-young wine from late well. It has great richness as well as density. Black- 2021. Organic. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. CÔTES DE BERGERAC berry fruitiness shines through dry core, promis- abv: 13% Price: $23 ing an exciting future. The wine will be ready from Château Tour des Gendres 2018 Les Anciens 2024. Organic. Martine’s Wines. Cellar Selection. Domaine la Taste 2019 Harmonie de la Taste 92 Francs Parcelle No A252 (Côtes de Bergerac). —R.V. 86 (Côtes de Gascogne). A typical Gascon blend This rich, perfumed and smoky wine comes from abv: 13.5% Price: $73 of and Ugni Blanc is perfumed with Gros a parcel of old Cabernet Franc. It is very young, Manseng. The result is this brightly textured, crisp expressing black-currant fruits and consider- Château de Chambert 2016 Cahors. Pro- wine that has a tangy citrus character along with able acidity, both of which will soften as the wine 93 duced from old vines, this wine is just mov- friendly white fruits. Drink this wine now. T. Elen- matures. The structure is just right and the wine ing towards maturity. Perfumed from wood aging, teny Imports. —R.V. will be impressive. Drink from 2023. Organic. Mar- rich in structure that is softening into the black- abv: 11.5% Price: $14 tine’s Wines. —R.V. berry fruits, the wine is impressively shaped with abv: 13.5% Price: $NA its tannins and vibrant aftertaste. Drink from 2022. Organic and biodynamic. MS Walker. —R.V. JURANÇON Château Tour des Gendres 2018 La Gloire abv: 13.5% Price: $40 91 de Mon Père (Côtes de Bergerac). This is a Lapeyre 2017 La Magendia de Lapeyre powerful wine, rich in tannins as well as black- Château Haut-Monplaisir 2018 Prestige 94 (Jurançon). Petit Manseng works its mar- berry fruits. With a good proportion of Malbec in 93 (Cahors). This elegant wine with ripe, per- vels in this late-harvest wine. While it has great the blend, the wine is dark in color and in tannin fumed tannins and rich structure is produced by freshness, it also has ripe apricot, honey and zesty intensity. It needs plenty of aging and should not Cathy and Daniel Fournié. The texture, smooth

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BUYINGGUIDE wood-aging character and generous black-plum- Château Nozières 2016 L’Elegance (Cahors). Château du Cèdre 2019 Extra Libre (Cahors). skin flavors all promise plenty of aging. Drink this 91 From a single vineyard of 50-year-old Mal- 88 Bottled without added sulfur, this wine has wine from 2024. Organic. Vintage ’59 Imports. bec, this wine has the potential to be rich and opu- a firm, dry structure. It suffers from a metallic edge —R.V. lent as it ages. Big tannins and black-fruit flavors that perhaps just reflects its youth. The wine needs abv: 14% Price: $30 make for a powerful, smoothly textured wine. Drink more time to soften, so wait to drink until 2023. from 2023. USA Wine West. —R.V. Organic. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. Clos Troteligotte 2017 K-2 (Cahors). Aging abv: 15% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $34 93 in amphoras has expanded the richness and ripe fruits of this wine. It has also given it structure Clos d’Audhuy 2018 Cahors. This rich, wood- Château Lamartine 2018 Prestige du Malbec and density, which will allow it to age well. This bal- 91 aged wine is dense with tannins and powerful 88 (Cahors). Aged only in tank, this wine cel- anced, ripe wine is shot through with acidity. Drink black fruits, both of which are still very young. The ebrates its rich fruitiness. The solid tannins of the from 2022. Organic. Authentique Vin. —R.V. structure and concentration promise a full, concen- Malbec come through strongly and ripely, bringing abv: 13.5% Price: $57 trated future. Drink from 2024. Ripe Wine Imports. with them powerful dark fruits, acidity, spice and —R.V. concentration. The wine needs time, so drink from Jean-Luc Baldès 2015 Clos Triguedina Probus abv: 14.5% Price: $26 2023. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. 93 (Cahors). Even after five years, some dry abv: 13.5% Price: $18 tannins sustain the black Malbec fruits. But the Clos Troteligotte 2014 K-Lys (Cahors). Aged balance is there with rich damson and black-plum 91 for 24 months in large barrels, this is now a Château Nozières 2018 Cahors. Ripe and flavors, showing structure with fruit. It is just ready smoothly textured wine. Its maturity is just right, 88 dense with opulence as well as big tannins, to drink. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. still with plenty of black fruits as well as developing this classic Cahors is deliciously rich. It has 85% abv: 14% Price: $72 secondary flavors. This ripe, balanced wine is ready Malbec with a touch of Merlot that has softened the to drink. Organic. Authentique Vin. —R.V. structure and brought out the fruit. Drink from late Château de Chambert 2015 Cahors. This ripe, abv: 13% Price: $40 2021. USA Wine West. —R.V. 92 full-bodied wine has now reached maturity. abv: 15% Price: $15 Tannins still show the density of a 100% Malbec Domaine Capelanel 2014 Amphût (Cahors). wine, but everything is soft and juicy enough to be 91 Partially aged in amphora, this wine comes Clos Troteligotte 2019 K-Or (Cahors). Aged delicious, rich and ready to drink. Organic and bio- from an unusual clay and ironstone vineyard, giv- 88 in tanks, this pure Malbec wine shows dynamic. MS Walker. —R.V. ing structure and mineral texture to the plummy structured fruits, crisp acidity and a dry core. Fruit- abv: 13.5% Price: $40 character. With tannins now fully cushioned by the iness is the key to its immediate attractiveness, but mature black fruits, the wine has great density and it will take a short while more to be ready. Wait Château du Cèdre 2018 Cahors. This estate is ready to drink. H Wines. —R.V. until late 2021. Organic. Authentique Vin. —R.V. 92 has produced a powerful wine that com- abv: 14% Price: $36 abv: 13% Price: $20 bines richness and a dense structure. The wine has weight, balance and potential. It needs to age, so Jean-Luc Baldès 2018 Clos Triguedina Domaine Capelanel 2014 Cuvée Pech Petit wait to drink until 2023. Organic. Martine’s Wines. 91 (Cahors). This estate wine shows the struc- 88 (Cahors). Aging in old barrels has pol- —R.V. ture as well as richness that comes from the Trigue- ished the mature black fruits of this wine. While abv: 13.5% Price: $34 dina vineyard. Tannins are richly balanced by the the wine’s age gives it a leathery texture, ripe black dark fruits, while licorice gives an edge of bitterness fruits still come through. The wine is ready to drink. Château Lamartine 2018 Cuvée Particulière that will soften. Drink from 2022. Vineyard Brands. H Wines. —R.V. 92 (Cahors). This is a ripe, polished wine. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29 Wood aging brings a perfumed character to the bold abv: 13.5% Price: $34 black fruits from old vines. The wine has heft and Château du Cèdre 2019 Juveniles (Cahors). richness while keeping a succulent character. This Château Lamartine 2018 Cahors. With 30% 87 Produced from young vines, this is a softly estate is situated in the west of the Cahors appel- 90 wood aging, this wine has both richness textured, succulent and fruity wine. It is all black- lation on the north bank of the Lot river. T. Edward and structure. It has a tight, black plum and tan- berry flavors, ripe tannins and attractive acidity. Wines Ltd. —R.V. nin character, with layers of wood and spice coming This wine is ready to drink. Organic. Elite Wines abv: 13.5% Price: $24 through the dense fruitiness. The wine has a future. Import. —R.V. Drink from 2023. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 Domaine Capelanel 2015 Cuvée Titouan abv: 13.5% Price: $20 92 (Cahors). Aged entirely in clay amphora, Clos d’Audhuy 2019 Le Pommier Gourmand this wine has tannic texture that gives it a dry core. Château Nozières 2018 Ambroise de l’Her 87 (Cahors). This full, ripe and fruity wine Rich, generous black fruits pulse with vibrancy and 90 (Cahors). Named after an ancestor of the brings out vibrant black fruits and soft tannins. The minerality from the clay and ironstone soil. Drink present owners, this wine has powerful, dark tan- wine has been made to drink young and fresh, with this wine now, but it could well age further. H nins. Licorice and dark-chocolate flavors give a dry generous textures and an open aftertaste. Drink Wines. —R.V. edge, while tannins form a firm background to the from late 2021. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $36 black-plum-skin flavors. Drink this full-bodied abv: 14% Price: $13 wine from 2023. USA Wine West. —R.V. Jean-Luc Baldès 2017 Clos Triguedina Probus abv: 15% Price: $20 Domaine Capelanel 2019 Cuvée Petitou 92 (Cahors). Named after the Roman emperor 87 (Cahors). This wine is about rich blackberry who allowed vines to be planted in Cahors, this ripe Château de Chambert 2019 La Tour Cham- flavors, lots of spice and a few tannins. It has been wine is perfumed with wood spice. Black fruits are 88 bert Cuvée des Hauts Coteaux (Cahors). This made in an approachable style, ready to drink young still firmly controlled by tannins, suggesting further bottling is a ripe and fruity wine that has soft tan- so as to enjoy the fruity side of Malbec. Drink now. aging. Drink this wine from 2022. Vineyard Brands. nins and plenty of fresh black-damson-plum flavors. H Wines. —R.V. —R.V. The structure is fully integrated already, promising abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 13.5% Price: $72 early drinking. Drink from late 2021. Organic and biodynamic. MS Walker. —R.V. Domaine Capelanel 2016 La Rangée du Curé abv: NA Price: $NA 87 (Cahors). Now mature, this gently textured

94 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 wine is soft but has plenty of vibrant, juicy fruits. Plaimont 1999 Château de Sabazan (Saint Freshness and acidity shine through the texture, 92 Mont). This is a remarkable wine, both for OTHER RED WINES producing balance and a wine that is ready to drink. its age and its completeness. Everything is still H Wines. —R.V. there, with the mature fruit still showing life and Château Tour des Gendres 2019 La Vigne abv: 13% Price: $22 freshness alongside the secondary flavors and dusty 90 d’Albert (Bergerac). A blend that includes tannins. The single-estate wine, with 91% Tan- the rare local Abouriou, this wine is made to drink Clos d’Audhuy 2019 Les Polissons (Cahors). nat in the blend, is, of course, very ready to drink. young and fruity. It’s a great success, packed with 86 This wine is soft and fruity, with only the Brickell Wines LLC. —R.V. red-berry flavors and soft tannins freshened by lightest tannic touch. It is juicy, fresh with red fruits abv: 13% Price: $70 tight acidity. Named after the grandfather of the and good acidity. Drink from late 2021. Ripe Wine present generation of the Conti family, the wine is Imports. —R.V. Plaimont 2017 Le Faîte (Saint Mont). The juicy and ready to drink. Organic. Martine’s Wines. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 91 blend for this wine is decided each year —R.V. by two professional tasters. This release brings abv: 13.5% Price: $23 together Tannat, Pinenc and Cabernet Sauvignon in GAILLAC a generous wood-aged wine that is still young. Firm Le Clos du Breil 2018 L’Odyssée (Bergerac). tannins and rich damson-plum fruits are powerful, 90 Aged in egg-shaped tanks, this wine is Domaine Rotier 2018 Les Gravels Rouge (Gail- demanding time. Drink from 2023. Brickell Wines based on Cabernet Franc, which gives it a smoky 91 lac). Five grapes go into this blend, including LLC. —R.V. character as well as minerality from the flint soil. local varieties Braucol and Prunelard. The result- abv: NA Price: $50 The wine has potential and needs aging to enhance ing wine is well structured, smoothly textured and the red fruits and acidity. Drink from 2022. Best welcoming. Red fruits and a core of tannins balance Plaimont 2008 Château Saint-Go (Saint Buy. —R.V. each other to give a wine that will be ready from late 90 Mont). This wine is showing age while abv: NA Price: $11 2021. Organic. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. retaining complexity and richness. Dusty tannins abv: 13% Price: $23 are integrated into the mature texture, with juicy Vignerons de Buzet 2018 La Tuque de Gueyze acidity still giving balance. The wine has richness, 88 (Buzet). From the small region between Château Bal Ségur 2018 Tradition (Gaillac). density from the Tannat’s tannins and is ready to Bordeaux and Toulouse, this is a classic Bordeaux- 88 Jérome Bezios makes this attractive blend enjoy a great moment with rich meat dishes. Drink style blend with 50% Merlot. The wine is bright of Syrah, Braucol and Duras that is full of fresh now. Brickell Wines LLC. —R.V. and lightly structured, with fresh acidity contrast- fruit, with a touch of pepper and light tannins. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 ing with the black-currant fruits. Drink the wine Berry flavors and good acidity come together in a from late 2021. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. wine that is ready to drink. Wine Circle Imports. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Best Buy. —R.V. MADIRAN abv: 14% Price: $9 Domaine la Taste 2019 Harmonie de la Taste Château Peyros 2017 Vieilles Vignes (Madi- 85 (Côtes de Gascogne). This stalky, young Château Bal Ségur 2017 Cuvée Vieilles 93 ran). This rich, wood-aged wine comes blend of Merlot and Tannat is full of red fruits, 86 Vignes­ (Gaillac). Produced from old vines, from 40- to 50-year-old vines on an estate at the with bright acidity and a texture that emphasizes this wine suffers from too much wood aging. While southern limit of the Madiran appellation. It brings freshness. Drink the wine now. T. Elenteny Imports. some of that toasty character will go, it masks the together dense tannins and old-vine concentration. —R.V. blend of Syrah and Braucol that clamors to get out. The acidity, black-plum flavors and tannins will abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Drink from 2022. Wine Circle Imports. —R.V. keep this wine developing for many years. Drink abv: 14% Price: $12 from 2023. Baron Francois Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. NORTHERN ITALY abv: 13% Price: $20 SAINT MONT SPARKLING WINES Famille Laplace 2017 Odé d’Aydie (Madiran). Plaimont 2008 Château de la Roque (Saint 93 The practice of micro-bullage (adding oxy- ALTA LANGA 93 Mont). From an estate managed by the gen during fermentation to soften the tannins of Plaimont cooperative, this wine is mature while still Tannat)was created at this estate. This ripe, gener- Banfi 2010 Cuvée Aurora Pas Dosé 100 Mesi having considerable life and freshness. It shows the ously structured wine does have tannins but these 93 Riserva (Alta Langa). Aromas of mature aging ability of Tannat, which dominates the blend are already integrated into the generous black fruits white stone fruit, citrus and bread crust carry over with Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinenc. The wine is and acidity. Perfumed and ripe, the wine will be to the focused, elegantly structured palate along ready to drink. Brickell Wines LLC. Editors’ Choice. ready from 2023. The Wine Company. —R.V. with notes of honey and almond. Bright acidity —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25 gives it a crisp finish while an extremely refined per- abv: 13.5% Price: $50 lage of tiny, continuous bubbles lends finesse. Banfi Château Peyros 2017 Tannat-Cabernet Vintners. —K.O. Plaimont 2017 Château de Sabazan (Saint 91 (Madiran). With 60% Tannat in the blend abv: 13% Price: $140/1.5 L 92 Mont). The vineyard surrounding this medi- with Cabernet Franc, this wine is inevitably rich eval fortress is managed by the Plaimont coopera- and structured. Under the still-young tannins and Enrico Serafino 2016 Oudeis Brut Rosé (Alta tive. This vintage is a rich blend, with 90% Tan- black-fruit flavors, the wine is balanced, with fresh 93 Langa). Aromas of red woodland berry, pas- nat just releasing its tannins and breathing out its acidity and juicy black-currant flavors. The wine try cream and wild herb form the enticing nose. On powerful damson fruits. The wine has great acidity should age further, and will be best drunk from the elegant palate, bright acidity and a silky perlage along with dense fruitiness and texture, and could 2023. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. accompany pomegranate, orange zest and star anise. age further. Drink from 2022. Brickell Wines LLC. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $27 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Gancia 2013 Cuvée 36 Mesi Brut (Alta 93 Langa). A blend of 80% Pinot Nero and

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BUYINGGUIDE

20% Chardonnay, this radiant sparkler offers entic- of bread crust framed in racy acidity and a lively perlage further fuels the energy and finesse. Zerbina ing aromas of ripe white stone fruit, brioche and ­perlage. MHB Wine Merchants. —K.O. Imports. —K.O. yellow spring flower. The palate boasts freshness abv: 12.5% Price: $60 abv: 11.5% Price: $45 and depth, delivering pomegranate, bread crust, white peach and hazelnut. Crisp acidity brightens Tosti 2016 Giulio I Brut (Alta Langa). ­Aromas Fongaro 2014 Pas Dosé Bio (Lessini Durello). the rich flavors while an elegant, persistent perlage 89 of bread crust, toasted walnut and orange 94 Citrusy and mineral-driven, this pristine, lends finesse. Roust.Editors’ Choice. —K.O. rind carry over to the linear palate along with yellow- racy sparkler features aromas of yellow spring abv: 12% Price: $25 apple skin. Racy acidity and a lively perlage provide flower, white stone fruit and a dollop of honeyed backup. —K.O. ­almond. On the dry, energized palate, an elegant, Gancia 2011 Cuvée 60 Mesi Riserva Brut abv: 12.5% Price: $30 persistent perlage and crisp acidity accompany 93 (Alta Langa). ­For full review see page 8. Golden Delicious apple and Meyer lemon while a Editors’ Choice. Tosti 2012 Giulio I Brut Extra Brut Riserva mineral vein of saline lends depth to the close. Great abv: 12.5% Price: $30 89 (Alta Langa). Subtle aromas of flint, brioche focus and finesse. —K.O. and white stone fruit form the delicate nose. The abv: NA Price: $32 Giribaldi 2015 Matteo Giribaldi Pas Dosé aromas carry over to the dry palate along with notes 93 (Alta Langa). Radiant and loaded with of hazelnut and espresso set against a persistent Franchetto 2013 Metodo Classico Dosaggio­ ­finesse, this has aromas of ripe white stone fruit, ­perlage. MHW, Ltd. —K.O. 94 Zero Riserva (Lessini Durello). Racy and brioche and lemon zest. The aromas carry on to the abv: 12.5% Price: $40 ­focused, this radiant sparkler has enticing aromas racy, bone-dry palate along with mineral notes sug- of citrus, hazelnut, sage and a whiff of underbrush. gesting saline and briny oyster shell. A lively, ele- The bone-dry, delicious palate has knife-like pre- gant perlage and crisp acidity provide the energized LAMBRUSCO cision and depth, delivering yellow apple, Meyer setting. CTS Distributing. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. lemon, slate mineral notes and hints of white pep- abv: 13% Price: $31 Villa di Corlo NV Metodo Classico Elettra per alongside crisp acidity. An extremely refined 92 Brut Rosé (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Aromas perlage lends finesse. J. Strecker Selections. —K.O. Enrico Serafino 2014 Pas Dosé Zero Riserva of just-pressed grapes, white rose and orange rind abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 92 (Alta Langa). Made entirely with Pinot form the nose. On the elegantly foaming, tangy Nero, this racy sparkler offers enticing aromas of palate, crisp acidity lifts juicy strawberry, tart red Sandro de Bruno 2015 Extra Brut 36 (Les- white spring flower, brioche, crushed botanical herb cherry and hints of baking spice. Ethica Wines. 94 sini Durello). Tantalizing aromas of white and white stone fruit. The dry, focused palate offers Editors’­ Choice. —K.O. stone fruit, wet rock and baking spice take shape yellow apple, bread crust and citrusy notes along- abv: 11.5% Price: $22 on this vibrant sparkler. Dry and delicious, the racy, side an elegant perlage and crisp acidity. It closes focused palate delivers ripe Bartlett pear, unsweet- on a saline note. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. Villa di Corlo 2019 Corleto (Lambrusco ened lemon drop and mineral notes recalling graph- abv: 12.5% Price: $55 89 Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Deeply colored, ite and saline. It boasts great energy, structure and dry and lightly fizzy, this has aromas of blue flower elegance as well as a crisp, pristine close. Vignaioli Enrico Serafino 2007 Pas Dosé Riserva Zero and blackberry jam. On the foaming, savory palate, Selection. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. 92 140 (Alta Langa). Delicate aromas of mature zesty acidity and light tannins accompany ripe black abv: 12.5% Price: $22 white stone fruit, bread crust and toasted nut make cherry and a hint of white pepper. Ethica Wines. their way to the forefront. Made with 85% Pinot —K.O. Corte Moschina 2015 Extra Brut (Lessini Nero and 15% Chardonnay, the elegant, structured abv: 11.5% Price: $20 93 ­Durello). Dry and focused, this elegant, palate offers acacia honey, chamomile, dried yellow- vibrant sparkler has delicate scents of white spring apple slices and bitter almond alongside a refined Cantina Settecani di Castelvetro NV Vini del flower, yellow pear and a whiff of wet stone. It’s perlage. Firm acidity lifts the rich flavors. Dalla 86 Re (Lambrusco di ). Vinous aromas dry, crisp and savory, delivering ripe yellow apple, Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. of just pressed grapes and a whiff of violet form the lemon zest and tangy saline before closing on a abv: 12.5% Price: $122 nose. The aromas follow over to the simple, lightly hazelnut note. A refined perlage and vibrant acid- sparkling palate along with juicy raspberry, black ity keep it energized and polished. FJN Fine Wines. Gancia 2015 Cuvée 36 Mesi Rosé (Alta Langa).­ cherry and crisp acidity. Mitchell Wine Group. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. 92 Made entirely with Pinot Nero, this vibrant, —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $35 focused sparkler has enticing aromas of red berry, abv: 11% Price: $14 violet and botanical herb. Dry and tangy, the savory Corte Moschina 2013 Dosaggio Zero Riserva palate offers juicy strawberry, pomegranate and 93 (Lessini Durello). Aromas of mature white baking spice alongside bright acidity. An elegant LESSINI DURELLO stone fruit, acacia honey and balsamic notes form perlage lends finesse. Roust. —K.O. the nose on this lovely sparkler. On the dry, radiant abv: 12% Price: $25 Dal Maso 2016 Pas Dosé Riserva Metodo palate, honeyed mineral notes underscore mature 94 Classico (Lessini Durello). For full review see yellow apple, lychee and hazelnut before a mineral- Bel Colle 2016 Cuvée Valentina Nature (Alta page 6. driven close. Crisp acidity and a refined, persistent 91 Langa). Hawthorn, brioche and white stone abv: 12.5% Price: $40 perlage provide the framework. FJN Fine Wines. fruit aromas carry over to the palate along with yel- —K.O. low apple and citrus zest. Saline mineral notes back Fattori 2013 Roncà Non Dosato Riserva abv: 12.5% Price: $55 up the crisp finish while a polished perlage lends 94 (Lessini­ Durello). Crisp but also boasting elegance. Quintessential Wines. —K.O. complexity, this energized, precise sparkler has Fongaro 2014 Brut Riserva (Lessini Durello). abv: 12.5% Price: $75 aromas of mature white stone fruit, pressed chamo- 93 Made with organically grown grapes, this mile flower, dried botanical herb and aniseed. The radiant sparkler has aromas of yellow spring flower, Tosti 2016 Rachele Rosé Brut (Alta Langa). dry, racy palate features ripe yellow apple, Meyer ripe yellow apple, citrus zest and hazelnut. On the 91 Made entirely with Pinot Nero, this has lemon, saline mineral notes and yeasty hints of bri- focused, dry palate, racy acidity energizes yellow delicate aromas of rose, rhubarb, red berry and wet oche alongside vibrant acidity. A refined, persistent pear, Meyer lemon and flinty mineral while a refined stone. Reflecting the nose, the dry, linear palate perlage lends finesse. —K.O. features pomegranate, smoky graphite and a hint abv: 12.5% Price: $30

96 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Franchetto 2015 Brut Riserva (Lessini yellow pear, botanical herb and saline mineral notes chamomile. The rather assertive palate offers cof- 93 Durello). Aromas of white spring flower, alongside crisp acidity and an elegant perlage. fee-bean and honeyed notes alongside brisk acidity citrus and wet stone waft out of the glass. On the —K.O. and vigorous bubbles. Illyrian Imports. —K.O. racy, almost vertical palate, crisp acidity accompa- abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA nies Meyer lemon, orange zest and Golden Delicious apple while an extremely refined, persistent perlage Franchetto 2018 Borgoletto Brut (Lessini Cavazza NV Brut (Lessini Durello). Fun and lends finesse. J. Strecker Selections. —K.O. 91 Durello).­ Crisp and dry, this racy sparkler 86 foaming, this simple sparkler has aromas abv: 12.5% Price: $NA has delicate aromas recalling hawthorn, citrus and a and flavors of tart green apple, candied lemon drop whiff of wet flint. Young and savory, the vibrant pal- and a hint of pastry. Crisp acidity and a soft mousse Sandro de Bruno 2010 60 Mesi Extra Brut ate is pristine, featuring Meyer lemon, grapefruit and provide the backdrop. FX Magner Selection. —K.O. 93 (­Lessini Durello). Heady aromas of yellow tangy saline alongside a refined perlage. J. Strecker abv: 11.5% Price: $NA spring flower, ripe white stone fruit, botanical herb Selections. —K.O. and honey shape the nose. The aromas follow over abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Del Maso NV Lessini Durello. Aromas of to the dry, silky palate along with mature yellow 86 white spring flower, chestnut honey and apple, hazelnut and a sprinkling of baking spice Casa Cecchin 2016 Nostrum Extra Brut white stone fruit form the subtle nose. On the foam- before a slate finish. Crisp acidity and a light per- 90 Riserva (Lessini Durello). Aromas of toasted ing, straightforward palate, tangy acidity accompa- lage accompany the rich flavors. Vignaioli Selection. hazelnut, underbrush and yellow spring flower form nies suggestions of ripe pear, mature yellow-apple —K.O. the nose. The dry, vibrant palate offers mature yel- skin and honeyed nuts. Downey Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 low apple, lemon rind and yeasty notes of bread abv: 12% Price: $15 dough alongside a lively perlage and racy acidity. Sandro de Bruno 2010 Extra Brut 100 Mesi —K.O. Antiche Terre Venete NV Metodo Martinotti 93 (Lessini­ Durello). Made from high-altitude abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 85 Brut (Lessini Durello). This opens with aro- vineyards situated 1,640 feet above sea level, this mas of green apple, honeysuckle and tropical fruit. dazzling sparkler opens with aromas suggesting Tonello 2016 Io Teti Brut (Lessini Durello). The aromas carry over to the simple palate along white spring flower, botanical herb, citrus and flint. 90 This vibrant sparkler has aromas of lychee, with bitter almond and a candied note. Brisk, steely Boasting freshness and depth, the dry, vibrant pal- citrus and botanical herb. On the palate, a refined, bubbles provide the setting. Tri-Vin Imports. —K.O. ate features ripe yellow apple, crushed mint, grape- persistent perlage accompanies lemon drop, white abv: 12% Price: $15 fruit, lemon drop and underpinnings of mineral. peach, aniseed and a hint of smoky flint set against Crisp acidity keeps it racy while a refined perlage crisp acidity. —K.O. lends finesse. ­Vignaioli Selection. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $NA OLTREPÒ PAVESE abv: 12.5% Price: $38 Casa Cecchin 2014 Dosaggio Zero Riserva Castello di Cigognola 2013 Moratti Rosé Brut Ca’ Rugate 2015 Amedeo Pas Dosé Riserva 89 (Lessini­ Durello). Toasted hazelnut, under- 94 Nature (Oltrepò Pavese). Red berry, violet 92 (Lessini Durello). Racy and bone-dry, this brush and brioche aromas form the nose. On the and brioche aromas waft out of the glass on this has aromas suggesting underbrush, white stone fruit dry, racy palate, crisp acidity accompanies yellow- lovely, dry Metodo Classico. Loaded with finesse and a whiff of fresh bread dough. On the crisp, pre- apple skin, lemon rind, walnut and a hint of saline and flavor, it features juicy strawberry, pomegran- cise palate, firm acidity accompanies yellow apple, alongside a lively perlage. —K.O. ate, vanilla and a yeasty hint of bread dough along- Meyer lemon and saline mineral notes while a abv: 12.5% Price: $NA side a silky perlage. Bright acidity keeps it remark- refined, lively perlage lends finesse. This is for lovers ably fresh and youthful. Crus & Stills. Editors’ of razor-sharp precision and energy. Maritime Wine Cantina di NV Settecento33 Brut Choice. —K.O. Trading Collective. —K.O. 88 (­Lessini Durello). Aromas of white spring abv: 12.5% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $30 flower mingle with citrus on this lively sparkler. The aromas carry over to the racy palate along with Castello di Cigognola 2013 Moratti Cuvée Fattori 2013 Ronca Brut 60 Mesi (Lessini saline notes and a vibrant perlage. Freixenet Mio- 93 dell’Angelo Pas Dosé (Oltrepò Pavese). 92 Durello).­ White spring flower, ripe white netto USA. —K.O. ­Elegant, structured and bone-dry, this enticing stone fruit, honey and balsamic aromas form the abv: 12% Price: $NA sparkler offers aromas of Spanish broom, bread expressive nose. Mirroring the nose, the dry, ele- dough, white stone fruit and balsamic notes. The gant palate offers acacia honey, ripe yellow pear Cantina di Soave NV Settecento33 Brut focused, savory palate delivers white peach, Meyer and a note of lemon drop alongside a refined per- 88 ­Riserva (Lessini Durello). Scents of white lemon and hazelnut set against racy acidity. A silky, lage. Crisp acidity brightens the rich flavors while spring f­lower, brioche and white stone fruit lead the persistent mousse lends finesse while a ginger note the barest hint of slate lingers on the close. Zerbina way. On the bright, straightforward palate, lively, lingers on the finish. Crus & Stills. —K.O. Imports. —K.O. small bubbles accompany ripe white peach and can- abv: 12% Price: $50 abv: 11.5% Price: $45 died notes suggesting lemon drop. Freixenet Mio- netto USA. —K.O. Oltrenero 2017 Pinot Meunier (Oltrepò Fongaro 2012 Brut Riserva (Lessini Durello). abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 93 Pavese).­ One of the few sparklers made 92 Aromas of white spring flower, baking spice, with 100% Meunier produced in the world, this botanical herb and mature white stone fruit form Gianni Tessari 2013 60 Mesi (Lessini soft, lovely sparkling wine has delicate scents of the nose on this smooth sparkler. On the vibrant, 88 Durello). Aromas of citrus, medicinal herb strawberry compote, citrus and a whiff of pastry savory palate, crisp acidity lifts ripe white peach, and saline lead the nose on this lively sparkler. cream. The tantalizing aromas flow over to the lemon drop and sage before a saline finish. A silky On the palate, vigorous bubbles and crisp acid- ­vibrant, supple palate along with the barest hint of perlage lends finesse. —K.O. ity accompany Meyer lemon, honey, hazelnut, and hazelnut. Bright acidity keeps it energized while a abv: 12.5% Price: $37 thyme. Rapp Wine ­Selections. —K.O. foaming perlage lends silky finesse. 1821 Fine Wines abv: 12% Price: $NA & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. Tonello 2015 Io Aura Brut Nature Pas Dosé abv: 12% Price: $60 92 (Lessini­ Durello). This racy, focused spar- Cantina di Monteforte 2012 Brut Riserva kler has delicate aromas of hawthorn and citrus. 86 (Lessini­ Durello). Aromas of underbrush Castello di Cigognola NV Moratti Metodo Clas- The savory, bone-dry palate features Meyer lemon, and toasted­ nut form the nose along with a whiff of 91 sico Cuvée More Pas Dosé (Oltrepò Pavese).

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Aromas of brioche, yellow spring flower and white geous, radiant palate boasts vibrancy and depth, lean palate picks up where the nose leaves off, stone fruit shape the nose. Made entirely with Pinot featuring juicy red cherry and pomegranate overlay- offering coconut, oak, Meyer lemon and yellow- Nero, the bone-dry, vibrant palate offers yellow ing rhubarb and mineral notes that recall graphite apple skin. An elegant perlage and crisp acidity apple, pomegranate and Meyer lemon alongside a and saline. A silky, persistent perlage provides loads ­accompany the linear palate. Taub Family Selec- hint of hazelnut. Crisp acidity and an elegant per- of finesse while bright acidity lends intensity and tions. —K.O. lage provide balance and finesse. Crus & Stills. precision. Extraordinary. Taub Family Selections. abv: 12.5% Price: $60 —K.O. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $30 abv: 12.5% Price: $250 Oro Rosso NV Brut Rosé (Trento). Racy and 90 focused, this opens with delicate aromas Oltrenero 2015 Brut Nature (Oltrepò Pavese). Ferrari NV Perlé Zero13 (Trento). Delicate of red berry, brioche and spring wild flower. On 91 Focused and vibrant, this wine offers aromas 95 aromas suggesting yellow spring flower, the crisp, dry palate, vibrant acidity accompanies of bread crust, botanical herb and white stone fruit. brioche and white stone fruit form the nose on this pomegranate, tangy citrus and a hint of saline. A Made entirely with Pinot Nero, the linear, racy pal- elegant, focused sparkler. It’s racy and dry, featuring lively, refined perlage provides the backdrop. Ethica ate delivers tart cherry, lemon zest and hazelnut yellow apple, Bartlett pear, Meyer lemon and toast Wines. —K.O. alongside crisp acidity and a lively perlage. 1821 alongside a persistent, refined perlage. Crisp acid- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Fine Wines & Spirits. —K.O. ity gives it a pristine close. Taub Family Selections. abv: 12% Price: $50 —K.O. Oro Rosso NV Dosaggio Zero (Trento). Aro- abv: 12.5% Price: $45 90 mas of hawthorn, white stone fruit and bri- Jako Wine 2016 Brut (Oltrepò Pavese). oche form the delicate nose on this silky sparkler. 90 ­Aromas of bread crust, eucalyptus and fen- Ferrari 2012 Perlé Nero Extra Brut Riserva On the dry, vibrant palate, crisp acidity accompa- nel carry over to the linear palate along with hazel- 95 (Trento). Radiant, polished and utterly nies mature yellow apple, bread crust and honeyed nut, orange rind and white cherry. An elegant per- -delicious, this divine sparkler hits all the right notes. Ethica Wines. —K.O. lage and bright acidity provide the setting. Strategic buttons. Made entirely with Pinot Nero, it has deli- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Importers. —K.O. cate but alluring aromas of white stone fruit, wild abv: 12.5% Price: $NA berry, yellow spring flower and brioche. The dry, Oro Rosso NV Brut (Trento). Aromas of bri- creamy palate is chock full of finesse, delivering 88 oche and white spring flower form the deli- Oltrenero NV Rosé Cruasé (Oltrepò Pavese). delicate layers of white peach, pomegranate, apple cate nose on this pretty sparkler. The palate offers 90 Made with Pinot Nero, this savory sparkler and bread crust alongside a silky perlage. Bright creamy yellow apple, tangy lemon drop and a hint of has enticing aromas of red berry, rose and rhubarb. acidity keeps it balanced. Taub Family Selections. almond alongside firm acidity and a lively perlage. On the bright, focused palate, crisp acidity and —K.O. Ethica Wines. —K.O. small, persistent bubbles provide an energized, pol- abv: 12.5% Price: $85 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ished setting. 1821 Fine Wines & Spirits. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $40 Giulio Ferrari 2009 Riserva del Fondatore 95 E­xtra Brut (Trento). Creamy and boast- OTHER SPARKLING WINES Castello di Cigognola NV Moratti Brut ing complexity, this iconic sparkler offers delicate 89 (Oltrepò­ Pavese). Made with Pinot Nero, aromas of white spring flower, white stone fruit Saracco 2019 Moscato d’Asti. For full review this has aromas of orange zest, walnut, white stone and toasted bread crust. On the elegantly sparkling 95 see page 5. Editors’ Choice. fruit and brioche. The aromas carry on to the bright palate, a silky perlage accompanies mature yellow abv: 6% Price: $17 palate along with candied lemon drop set against a apple, white peach, honey and a hint of lemon drop silky perlage. Crus & Stills. —K.O. alongside crisp acidity. Taub Family Selections. Castello di Neive 2014 Metodo Classico Extra abv: 12% Price: $30 —K.O. 91 Brut (). Dry, racy and elegant, this abv: 12.5% Price: $130 has subtle, enticing scents of spring wild flower, Oltrenero NV Brut (Oltrepò Pavese). ­Aromas wild herb and stone fruit. The focused, linear pal- 89 of orange rind, walnut and bread crust Ferrari 2015 Perlé Rosé Brut Riserva (Trento). ate features apple, Meyer lemon, saline and hazel- ­follow over to the straightforward but well made 92 Chamomile, hay, hazelnut and red-berry nut alongside crisp acidity. A lively, refined perlage palate, along with mature yellow apple. Crisp acidity aromas form the appealing nose. On the elegantly lends finesse. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. and a light perlage provide freshness and ­softness. sparkling palate, bright acidity lifts sour cherry, abv: 12.5% Price: $50 1821 Fine Wines & Spirits. —K.O. apple and pomegranate before a bread-crust close. abv: 12% Price: $40 Taub Family Selections. —K.O. Corte Moschina NV Purocaso Vino Frizzante abv: 12.5% Price: $50 91 (). Savory and refreshing, this has Jako Wine 2009 Metodo Classico Brut inviting aromas of chamomile, white stone fruit and 88 Riserva (Oltrepò Pavese). Aromas of orange Ferrari NV Brut (Trento). For full review see a yeasty whiff of brioche. On the dry, lightly spar- liqueur, toasted walnut and bread crust form the 91 page 14. kling palate, crisp acidity accompanies mature yel- nose. The aromas carry over to the palate along with abv: 12.5% Price: $NA low apple, Bartlett pear, saline and a hint of bitter honey, mature yellow-apple skin and a candied note almond. FJN Fine Wines. —K.O. set against a foaming perlage. Fresh acidity lifts the Ferrari 2015 Perlé Brut (Trento). For full abv: 11.5% Price: $25 rich, evolved flavors. Strategic Importers. —K.O. 91 review see page 14. abv: 12.5% Price: $80 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Cuvage 2016 Rosé Brut Metodo Classico (Neb- 91 biolo d’Alba). For full review see page 13. Ferrari NV Rosé Brut Metodo Classico abv: 12.5% Price: $40 TRENTO 90 (Trento). For full review see page 17. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Gancia NV Brut 19 Mesi (Piemonte). Fresh and Ferrari 2008 Riserva del Fondatore Rosé 91 savory, this elegant sparkler hits all the right 97 Extra Brut (Trento). Made with 70% Pinot Ferrari 2015 Lunelli Extra Brut Riserva buttons. Made with Pinot Nero and 20% Char- Nero and 30% Chardonnay, this exquisite, struc- 90 (Trento).­ Subdued aromas suggesting donnay, it features ripe white stone fruit, juicy red tured sparkler opens with enticing scents of rose toasted hazelnut, bread crust and mature white berry and brioche set against a refined, persistent petal, citrus, baking spice and red berry. The gor- stone fruit shape the nose. The dry, linear, rather

98 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 perlage. Lively acidity keeps it bright and balanced. COLLI DELLA Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this Roust. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. opens with aromas of cedar, black-skinned berry abv: 12% Price: $20 TOSCANA CENTRALE and mocha. The firm palate offers blackberry jam, tobacco, toasted oak and powdered sage alongside Fontodi 2017 Flaccianello della Pieve (Colli assertive, rather drying tannins that grip the finish. TUSCANY 96 della Toscana Centrale). Aromas of baked Drink through 2026. Maisons and Domaines Hen- plum, blue flower, French oak and camphor are riot. —K.O. CHIANTI RUFINA front and center on this bold, full-bodied red. Made abv: 14% Price: $NA entirely with organically grown Sangiovese, the deli- Selvapiana 2016 Vigneto Bucerchiale cious palate boasts concentration and a weightless VINO NOBILE 96 Riserva (Chianti Rufina). Loaded with per- elegance, doling out layers of ripe Marasca cherry, sonality, this opens with aromas of forest floor, new raspberry compote, licorice, cocoa and carob framed DI MONTEPULCIANO leather, camphor and ripe black-skinned fruit. The in tightly wound, close-grained tannins. Give it a palate boasts an earthy elegance reminiscent of top few more years to fully develop. Drink 2023–2037. Contucci 2016 Mulinvecchio (Vino Nobile di Burgundies, showcasing ripe black cherry, crushed Vinifera Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. 96 Montepulciano). For full review see page 3. raspberry, truffle, star anise and a hint of salted abv: 15% Price: $NA Cellar Selection. game. Firm, fine-grained tannins provide support abv: 14% Price: $55 while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2022– Casa Emma 2018 Harenae (Colli della Tos- 2036. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Editors’ Choice. 94 cana Centrale). For full review see page 6. Contucci 2016 Pietra Rossa (Vino Nobile di —K.O. Editors’ Choice. 96 Montepulciano). Truffle, rose, new leather abv: 14.5% Price: $36 abv: 14% Price: $30 and menthol aromas shape the enticing nose along with scents of forest berry. Delicious and loaded Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi 2017 Nipozzano with finesse, the smooth, taut palate delivers suc- 91 ­Vecchie Viti Riserva (Chianti Rufina). Under- COSTA TOSCANA culent red cherry, crushed strawberry, star anise brush, camphor, coffee been and cassis aromas and baking spice while firm, refined tannins provide follow on to the elegantly structured palate, along I Giusti e Zanza 2018 Dulcamara (Costa noble support. It’s well balanced, with fresh acidity. with hints of orange zest and star anise. Taut, 92 ­Toscana). Made with 70% Cabernet Sauvi- Drink 2024–2036. Specialty Cellars. —K.O. fine-grained tannins provide lithe support. Drink gnon, 25% Merlot and Petit Verdot, this has aromas abv: 14% Price: $49 2022–2027. Shaw-Ross International Importers. recalling ripe black-skinned berry, menthol and dark —K.O. spice. The concentrated, velvety palate offers cassis, Dei 2016 Madonna delle Querce (Vino Nob- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 dried cherry and licorice alongside close-grained, 95 ile di Montepulciano). Classic Sangiovese enveloping tannins. Drink 2022–2028. Votto Vines aromas of wild berry, blue flower, new leather and Selvapiana 2018 Chianti Rufina. Fragrant and Importing. —K.O. dark spice mingle together on this full-bodied red. 91 loaded with finesse, this vibrant red has aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Smooth and concentrated, it also boasts an almost mas of violet, wild berry, camphor and new leather. weightless elegance, delivering succulent black It’s radiant and racy, offering juicy cranberry, orange Tenuta di Ghizzano 2018 Il Ghizzano (Costa cherry, licorice and menthol framed in tightly knit zest, star anise and crushed mint before closing on 92 Toscana). Made with organically farmed fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. a hint of rusty nail. Lithe, polished tannins and Sangiovese and 5% Merlot, this opens with aro- Drink 2022–2031. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. vibrant acidity provide the setting. Drink through mas of red-skinned berry, iris and underbrush. The abv: 15% Price: $120 2023. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. juicy palate offers raspberry, red cherry, star anise abv: 13.5% Price: $19 and white pepper alongside polished tannins and Salcheto 2017 Vecchie Viti Salco (Vino Nobile bright acidity. Enjoy through 2026. Maisons and 95 di Montepulciano). Another stellar per- Frescobaldi 2017 Nipozzano Riserva (Chianti Domaines Henriot. —K.O. formance from this sustainable estate, this 100% 90 Rufina). For full review see page 17. Editors’ abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Sangiovese made from organically farmed grapes Choice. is smooth and delicious. Opening with aromas of abv: 13% Price: $20 I Giusti e Zanza 2019 Belcore (Costa Toscana). mature black-skinned fruit, violet and dark spice, 91 Earthy aromas of underbrush, leather and the velvety, medium-bodied expands into juicy Grignano 2018 Ritratto del Cardinale (Chi- blue flower mingle with grilled herb on this 80% Morello cherry, ripe plum and licorice before clos- 90 anti Rufina). Made with organically farmed Sangiovese and Merlot blend. Spicy and savory, ing on a tobacco note. Taut, fine-grained tannins grapes, 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo, this the linear palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, star provide elegant support. Drink through 2027. Mas- vibrant young red has aromas of wild berry, rose, anise and hints of game alongside taut, polished sanois Imports. —K.O. tilled earth and camphor. Bright and savory, the tannins. Tangy acidity keeps it fresh and balanced. abv: 14% Price: $85 bright palate features red cherry, pomegranate and Drink 2023–2029. Votto Vines Importing. —K.O. star anise framed in easygoing, lithe tannins. It’s abv: 13.5% Price: $42 Boscarelli 2017 Costa Grande (Vino Nobile made to for sheer drinking pleasure so enjoy soon. 94 di Montepulciano). Menthol, ripe black- Montcalm Wine Importers. Best Buy. —K.O. I Giusti e Zanza 2019 Nemorino (Costa skinned berry, iris and oak-driven spice aromas abv: 14% Price: $15 90 T­oscana). A blend of 60% Syrah, 20% San- take shape in the glass. The full-bodied, elegantly giovese and Merlot, this light-bodied red has aro- structured palate showcases ripe Morello cherry, Grignano 2018 Chianti Rufina. Made with mas of black-skinned berry, blue flower and cooking orange zest and licorice before closing on a note of 87 ­organically farmed grapes, this bright red spice. Reflecting the nose, the lithe palate doles out roasted coffee bean. Tightly knit, fine-grained tan- has aromas of forest berry, violet and a whiff of juicy Marasca cherry and cooking spice alongside nins provide firm support while surprisingly fresh moist earth. The somewhat lean palate offers sour fine-grained tannins that leave a somewhat drying acidity for the hot vintage keeps it balanced. Drink cherry, orange rind and hints of dark spice alongside f­inish. Votto Vines Importing. —K.O. 2023–2029. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. taut, drying tannins. Zesty acidity keeps it lively. abv: 13.5% Price: $26 abv: 14.5% Price: $95 Montcalm Wine Importers. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $10 Tenuta di Ghizzano 2017 Nambrot (Costa 89 Toscana). A blend of organically farmed

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Dei 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. For star anise mingle with camphor and blue flower. firm, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2028. Taub 94 full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. Savory and balanced, the taut palate has finesse and Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $34 surprising freshness for the vintage, showcasing abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, espresso and Poliziano 2017 Asinone (Vino Nobile di Monte­ licorice. Taut, velvety tannins provide polished sup- Boscarelli 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. 94 pulciano). Aromas of ripe black-skinned port. Drink though 2027. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. 92 Polished and savory, this medium-bodied fruit, menthol and French oak form the alluring abv: 14% Price: $50 red opens with aromas of camphor, wild berry nose. On the firm, full-bodied palate, tightly knit, and new leather. On the linear palate, taut tannins close-grained tannins accompany ripe Marasca Cantina Chiacchiera 2015 Mahti (Vino Nobile accompany juicy Marasca cherry and licorice. Drink cherry, orange zest, roasted coffee bean and star 93 di Montepulciano). Aromas of wild berry, through 2025. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. anise. It’s densely structured but also has a weight- rose, violet and new leather mingle with whiffs of abv: 14% Price: $40 less vibrancy. Drink 2023–2029. Dalla Terra Win- menthol on this 100% Sangiovese. Elegantly struc- ery Direct. —K.O. tured and delicious, the smooth, medium-bodied Cantina del Giusto 2017 San Claudio II (Vino abv: 15% Price: $63 palate presents juicy Marasca cherry, ripe pome- 92 Nobile di Montepulciano). Earthy aromas granate, cocoa and licorice. Refined tannins provide of new leather, underbrush and violet mingle with Salcheto 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. polished support. Drink through 2028. Vinifera crushed mint on this smooth, full-bodied red. Chewy 94 Made with organically grown Sangiovese ­Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. and enveloping, the juicy palate delivers ripe Marasca­ and adhering to certified sustainable practices, this abv: 14% Price: $35 cherry, baked plum and licorice while tightly knit, delicious, fragrant red offers enticing scents of dark fine grained tannins provide support. Drink through spice, new leather, wild berry and eucalyptus oil. Dei 2015 Bossona Riserva (Vino Nobile di 2027. H. Mercer Wine & Spirit ­Imports. Editors’­ The elegantly structured palate boasts wonderful 93 Montepulciano). The subtle nose slowly Choice. —K.O. fruit and spice, showcasing juicy Marasca cherry, opens to show mature plum, forest floor, blue flower abv: 15% Price: $23 raspberry compote and cinnamon while a licorice and oak-driven spice. The concentrated, enveloping note lingers on the close. Silky tannins and fresh palate features steeped prune, licorice and tobacco Casale Daviddi 2016 Vino Nobile di Monte­ acidity keep it nicely balanced. Drink through 2025. set against tightly knit, fine-grained tannins. You’ll 92 pulciano. Earthy aromas of leather, truffle, Massanois Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. also get the warmth of evident alcohol on the close. rose and tilled earth lead the nose on this blend of abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Drink through 2025. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. Sangiovese, 5% Cannaiolo and 5% Mammolo. The abv: 15% Price: $69 savory palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, straw- Salcheto 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Monte­ berry compote and star anise against taut, close- 94 pulciano). Aromas of plum, violet and Gracciano della Seta 2017 Vino Nobile di grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it bright. Drink ­tobacco are front and center along with a whiff of 93 Montepulciano.­ All about elegance, this through 2026. Vinarium Inc. —K.O. camphor on this fragrant, savory red. The smooth, fragrant red offers lovely scents of blue flower, for- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 enveloping palate has a weightless quality, featuring est berry, dark spice and a woodsy whiff of cedar. spiced blueberry, dried cherry and licorice framed in The lithe, savory palate delivers raspberry compote, Icario 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. tightly knit but elegant tannins. Drink through 2031. wild cherry and licorice framed in taut, fine-grained 92 Enticing, earthy aromas of blue flower, per- Massanois Imports. —K.O. tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it nicely balanced. fumed berry and new leather mingle with a hint of abv: 14% Price: $35 Drink 2022–2027. Ideal Wine and Spirits. —K.O. truffle on this fragrant red. Full bodied and savory, abv: 14% Price: $32 the juicy palate features mouthfuls of ripe Morello Salcheto 2016 Salco (Vino Nobile di Monte­ cherry, black plum, licorice and baking spice set 94 pulciano). Ripe plum, baking spice, menthol Gracciano della Seta 2017 Riserva (Vino against taut, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2027. and new leather are just some of the aromas you’ll 93 Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of red Golden Wine. —K.O. find on this fantastic Sangiovese. On the elegantly berry, rose and camphor slowly expand in the glass abv: 14.5% Price: $30 structured, delicious palate, notes of ground pep- to include accents of dark spice. Supremely elegant, per and licorice accent a core of juicy black cherry the lithe, savory palate features juicy black cherry, Il Conventino 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile di and crushed raspberry set against a backbone of raspberry compote and licorice before closing on a 92 Montepulciano). Forest floor, new leather, taut, refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it nicely ground cinnamon note. Taut, fine-grained tannins blue flower and camphor aromas are front and cen- balanced. Drink 2024–2034. Massanois Imports. provide polished support. Drink 2023–2032. Ideal ter. Firm and focused, the medium-bodied palate Cellar­ Selection. —K.O. Wine and Spirits. —K.O. offers Marasca cherry, licorice and hints of bak- abv: 14% Price: $60 abv: 14% Price: $48 ing spice set against taut, fine-grained tannins. ­Vignaioli Selection. —K.O. Boscarelli 2017 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Monte­ La Braccesca 2016 Maggiarino (Vino Nobile di abv: 14% Price: $45 93 pulciano). Subtle aromas of dark-skinned 93 Montepulciano). French oak, fig, dates and berry, star anise and a whiff of leather form the blue flower aromas are front and center. Elegantly Il Molinaccio di Montepulciano 2017 nose on this blend of Sangiovese and 10% Colorino. structured, the smooth palate offers spiced blue- 92 La ­Spinosa (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Medium bodied and rather austere, the linear pal- berry, prune, espresso and licorice accompanied by Aromas of ripe dark-skinned fruit, rose, star anise ate features dried Marasca cherry, white pepper and taut, fine-grained tannins. A tobacco note lingers and eucalyptus lead the nose on this 100% Sangio- ground clove alongside taut, fine-grained tannins. on the finish while velvety, fine-grained tannins and vese. Reflecting the nose, the savory, medium-bod- Drink 2022–2027. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. fresh acidity provide support. Drink through 2028. ied palate showcases ripe Marasca cherry, licorice abv: 14% Price: $50 Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. and hints of almond framed in lithe, polished tan- abv: 14% Price: $NA nins. Drink through 2024. Strade Bianche Wines. Boscarelli 2017 Sotto Casa Riserva (Vino Editors’ Choice. —K.O. 93 Nobile di Montepulciano). For full review see Trerose 2016 Simposio Riserva (Vino Nobile abv: 13.5% Price: $27 page 8. 93 di Montepulciano). Made entirely with San- abv: 14% Price: $77 giovese, this has aromas of forest floor, rose, new Il Molinaccio di Montepulciano 2016 Vino leather and menthol. Full bodied and elegantly 92 Nobile di Montepulciano. Heady aromas Boscarelli 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Monte­ structured, the palate shows Marasca cherry, blood ­recalling forest berry, underbrush, blue flower and 93 pulciano). Spicy aromas of white pepper and orange, star anise and spearmint accompanied by botanical herb escape the glass. On the juicy, savory

100 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 palate, notes of ground pepper and star anise accent oak-driven spice. The elegantly structured palate aromas slowly take shape in the glass. The brawny a red-cherry core before a tobacco close. Taut, features ripe red cherry, star anise and coffee bean palate doles out blackberry jam, cherry tart and refined tannins provide polished support while set against firm, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity licorice alongside close-grained tannins. You’ll also fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink through 2028. keeps it balanced. Drink now through 2031. Verve notice the warmth of evident alcohol on the close. Strade Bianche Wines. —K.O. Imports. —K.O. Drink 2022–2027. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $56 abv: 14.5% Price: $43 abv: 15% Price: $27

La Braccesca 2016 Vigneto Santa Pia Riserva Trerose 2017 Santa Caterina (Vino Nobile di Poggio alla Sala 2017 Vino Nobile di Monte­ 92 (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Red-berry, 92 Montepulciano). Blue flower, wild berry and 91 pulciano. Balsamic aromas of camphor mingle blue-flower and oak-driven aromas mingle together crushed mint are some of the aromas you’ll find on with cedar and oak-driven spice on this medium- in the glass. The linear, elegantly structured palate this medium-bodied Sangiovese. Elegantly struc- bodied red. The ripe but elegantly structured palate offers cranberry, star anise and coffee bean alongside tured and savory, the smooth palate features juicy presents juicy Morello cherry, orange zest, licorice polished, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it black cherry, raspberry compote and licorice set and toasted nut framed in fine-grained tannins. balanced. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. against firm, refined tannins. It’s also surprisingly Drink through 2025. Deutsch Family Wine and abv: 14% Price: $50 fresh for the scorching vintage. Drink through 2027. Spirits. —K.O. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25 Le Bèrne 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Monte­ abv: 14% Price: $40 92 pulciano). This big red has pronounced aro- Poliziano 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. mas of forest floor, ground cinnamon, baked plum Contucci 2016 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. 91 Black-skinned fruit, French oak and violet and violet. The chewy, savory palate has an earthy 91 Earthy aromas of forest floor, rose, new aromas slowly take shape on this full-bodied red. appeal, offering black cherry, licorice and salted leather and crushed botanical herb shape the nose Densely concentrated, the chewy palate features game set against tightly knit, close-grained tannins. on this classically crafted red. Racy and linear, the dried cherry, prune and licorice alongside fine- Drink now through 2026. Siena Imports. —K.O. vibrant palate features juicy red cherry, cranberry, grained tannins. Drink through 2025. Dalla Terra abv: 15% Price: $48 star anise and white pepper framed in taut tannins. Winery Direct. —K.O. It cries out for food. Drink 2022–2028. Specialty abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Lunadoro 2017 Pagliareto (Vino Nobile di Cellars. —K.O. 92 Montepulciano). Aromas of blue flower, ripe abv: 14% Price: $39 Villa S. Anna 2016 Poldo (Vino Nobile di Mon- berry and dark culinary spice lead the nose on this 91 tepulciano). Initially shy, the nose eventually inviting red. It’s full bodied and already accessible, De’ Ricci Cantine Storiche 2017 Vino Nobile di reveals French oak, underbrush, coconut and dried doling out flavors of baked plum, cherry compote 91 Montepulciano. Rose, new leather and cam- herb. The palate is more expressive, offering mature and star anise set against fine-grained tannins. phor mingle with a whiff of woodland berry on this Morello cherry, orange zest and licorice set against Drink through 2025. Schenk Wines USA. —K.O. 100% Sangiovese. Elegantly structured, the linear taut, close-grained tannins. A coffee-bean note abv: 14.5% Price: $35 palate offers ripe cherry, strawberry, coffee bean marks the finish. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —K.O. and ground clove set against fine-grained tannins. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Palazzo Vecchio 2017 Maestro (Vino Nobile di Drink through 2025. DJK Imports. —K.O. 92 Montepulciano). Inviting aromas of spiced abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Antico Colle 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepul- plum, crushed mint and blue flower are front and 90 ciano. Scorched earth, menthol and oak- center. A blend of Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo and Folonari 2017 Torcalvano (Vino Nobile di Monte­ driven spice aromas shape the nose along with 5% Mammolo, the brooding palate features dried 91 pulciano). Camphor, pressed rose and mature mature black-skinned fruit. The firm, full-bodied black cherry, cinnamon and star anise set against woodland berry shape the alluring nose. Savory palate takes up where the nose left off, recalling a backbone of firm, close-grained tannins. Drink and elegantly structured, the medium-bodied pal- ripe black cherry, menthol and star anise. Tightly 2022–2029. Girasole Imports. —K.O. ate features dried cherry, licorice and crushed mint wound, close-grained tannins grip the close. Drink abv: 14% Price: $24 before closing on a coffee note. Lithe, refined tan- 2023–2029. Kindred Spirits, Inc. —K.O. nins offer polished support. Drink through 2025. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Poggio alla Sala 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Kobrand. —K.O. 92 Montepulciano). Blue-flower, ripe berry and abv: 14% Price: $26 Casale Daviddi 2015 Riserva (Vino Nobile di spicy aromas of sandalwood form the nose. Medium- 90 Montepulciano). Scorched earth, leather bodied and elegantly structured, the palate offers Il Conventino 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepul- and game aromas come together on this earthy red mature blackberry, juicy plum and star anise along- 91 ciano. Aromas of scorched earth, new leather along with eucalyptus notes. Showing the heat of side taut, fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2026. and roasted nut form the nose along with a whiff the vintage, the medium-bodied palate is already Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —K.O. of violet. The chewy, savory palate doles out ripe rather evolved but also full of flavor, delivering abv: 14% Price: $34 plum, cherry compote and licorice alongside taut, fleshy black plum, ripe Marasca cherry and bak- fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2027. ­Vignaioli ing spice before finishing on the same gamy note Poliziano 2017 Le Caggiole (Vino Nobile di Selection. —K.O. from the nose. Enveloping tannins provide velvety 92 Montepulciano). Classic Sangiovese aromas abv: 14% Price: $30 ­support. Drink through 2025. Vinarium Inc. —K.O. of violet, ripe berry and forest floor mingle with a abv: 14% Price: $35 whiffs of menthol and exotic spice. Dense and pow- Il Macchione 2016 Vino Nobile di Montepul- erfully structured, the palate delivers dried cherry, 91 ciano. Fragrant and refined, this medium- La Braccesca 2017 Vino Nobile di Monte­ espresso and vanilla alongside tightly woven, fine- bodied red has aromas of iris, rose, ripe berry and 90 pulciano. For full review see page 17. grained tannins that leave a firm, drying finish. sandalwood. It’s elegant and already accessible, abv: 14.5% Price: $25 You’ll also feel the heat of evident alcohol. Drink offering juicy Marasca cherry, licorice and ground 2023–2029. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. clove. Polished tannins offer light support. Drink La Ciarliana 2016 Vino Nobile di Monte­ abv: 15% Price: $100 through 2023. APS Wine & Spirits. —K.O. 90 pulciano. Scorched earth, truffle and new abv: 14% Price: $36 leather aromas line up in the glass along with whiffs Talosa 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Monte­ of charcuterie. The big, chewy palate shows steeped 92 pulciano). This full-bodied red has enticing La Ciarliana 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. prune, licorice and espresso alongside enveloping, aromas of fragrant purple flower, forest floor and 91 Underbrush, baked plum, mint and cocoa

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BUYINGGUIDE fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2026. Regal alongside lithe, drying tannins. Bright acidity keeps Le Bertille 2015 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. it light on its feet. Enotria Wine Import. —K.O. 89 Montepulciano).­ Made with Sangiovese and abv: 15% Price: $27 abv: 14.5% Price: $34 a dollop of Colorino and Canaiolo, this has aromas of underbrush, scorched earth, leather and blue flower.­ Le Bèrne 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Bindella 2016 Vallocaia Riserva (Vino Nobile Medium bodied and straightforward, the palate 90 Aromas of rose, French oak and crushed 89 di Montepulciano). Aromas of ripe dark- offers dried cherry, baking spice and a hint of star mint lead the nose. Taut and elegantly structured, skinned berry, baking spice and blue flower come anise alongside dusty tannins. Drink through 2025. the medium-bodied palate offers dried Marasca together on this blend of 90% Sangiovese and Singular Selections. —K.O. cherry, ground pepper and star anise framed in Colorino. The linear palate stars off with ripe Mar- abv: 14% Price: $35 firm, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2027. Siena asca cherry, orange zest and licorice before grainy I­mports. —K.O. tannins abruptly shut it down, with a clenching, Lombardo 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. abv: 14% Price: $29 ­astringent finish. Vinaio Caprese. —K.O. 89 Blue-flower, steeped prune and nutmeg aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $54 mas mingle with whiffs of new leather. The robust Lunadoro 2016 Quercione Riserva (Vino palate shows the heat of the vintage, offering dried 90 Nobile di Montepulciano). Made with San- Cantina Chiacchiera 2017 Vino Nobile di Mon- cherry, raisin and licorice framed in brooding, envel- giovese and 10% Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, 89 tepulciano. Earthy whiffs of truffle, game oping tannins. You’ll also get the warmth of evident this has aromas recalling underbrush, menthol and and leather form the rather subdued nose on this alcohol on the close. Drink sooner rather than later. whiffs of violet. The linear palate reveals cassis, blend of 90% Sangiovese plus Mammolo, Eagle Eye Brands. —K.O. clove and powdered sage alongside dusty, drying and Canaiolo. The aromas carry on to the taut pal- abv: 15% Price: $28 tannins. A coffee-bean note marks the close. Schenk ate along with dried cherry, crushed mint and star Wines USA. —K.O. anise. It’s already accessible, with dusty tannins. Poggio alla Sala 2017 Parceto (Vino Nobile abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Drink through 2023. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. 89 di Montepulciano). Scorched earth, under­ abv: 14% Price: $21 brush and stewed prune aromas follow over to the Metinella 2017 Burberosso (Vino Nobile di austere palate along with licorice and a hint of men- 90 Montepulciano). Blue-flower, spiced blue- Carpineto 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile di thol. It’s on the lean side, with firm, drying tannins. berry and camphor aromas waft out of the glass. 89 Montepulciano).­ Earthy aromas of under- Drink 2022–2027. Deutsch Family Wine and ­Spirits. Taut and linear, the palate offers ripe black cherry, brush, leather and a whiff of game form the subtle —K.O. star anise and espresso alongside polished tannins. nose. The rather light-bodied, accessible palate abv: 14% Price: $55 Drink through 2024. Forza Wine Imports. —K.O. offers prune, licorice and a dollop of vanilla along- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 side dusty, drying tannins. Opici Wines. —K.O. Talosa 2017 Filai Lunghi (Vino Nobile di abv: 13.5% Price: $35 89 Montepulciano). Balsamic aromas of new Montemercurio 2016 Messaggero (Vino leather and camphor mingle with cedar on this full- 90 ­Nobile di Montepulciano). Forest floor, De’ Ricci Cantine Storiche 2016 Soraldo bodied red. Showing the heat of the vintage, the menthol and leather aromas mingle together on 89 (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of palate is rather evolved in terms of fruit richness, this robust red. On the big, brooding palate, close- blue flower, menthol, sandalwood and other oak- suggesting steeped prune, roasted coffee bean and grained tannins accompany cherry marinated in driven spices form the nose. It’s on the lighter side licorice alongside close-grained, drying tannins. spirits, prune and licorice. The heat of evident alco- of medium-bodied,­ offering dried cherry, coffee bean Verve Imports. —K.O. hol lingers on the close. Golden Vines. —K.O. and star anise alongside fresh acidity and dusty, abv: 14.5% Price: $62 abv: 15% Price: $29 close-grained tannins that leave a drying finish. Drink through 2024. DJK Imports. —K.O. Tiberini 2013 Vigna Fossatone Riserva (Vino Palazzo Vecchio 2013 Riserva (Vino Nobile abv: 14% Price: $60 89 Nobile di Montepulciano). Rose, new leather 90 di Montepulciano). Leather, porcini mush- and cedar aromas slowly form the nose. The palate room and balsamic aromas of camphor form the Fanetti–Tenuta S. Agnese 2016 Riserva is linear and austere, offering spiced cranberry, star subtle, earthy nose along with a whiff of cedar. The 89 (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of anise, coffee bean and menthol framed in taut, close- smooth, medium-bodied palate offers dried cherry, underbrush, blue flower, leather and stewed cherry grained tannins that leave a lean, drying f­inish. tobacco and baking spice alongside drying, fine- form the nose. The medium-bodied, no-frills palate Enotria­ Wine Import. —K.O. grained tannins. It still has fresh acidity but drink offers dried cherry, cinnamon and star anise along- abv: 14.5% Price: $49 sooner rather than later to capture the remaining side dusty, drying tannins. Enotec Imports, Inc. fruit. Girasole Imports. —K.O. —K.O. Triacca 2016 Santavenere (Vino Nobile di abv: 14% Price: $35 abv: 14% Price: $30 89 Montepulciano). Aromas of dark-skinned berry, underbrush and espresso form the subtle Talosa 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Fassati 2016 Gersemi (Vino Nobile di Monte­ nose. Mirroring the aromas, the palate offers mature 90 Wild-berry, botanical-herb and dark-spice 89 pulciano). Forest floor, scorched earth and Marasca cherry, prune, roasted coffee bean and a aromas mingle together on this 100% Sangiovese. camphor aromas form the earthy nose while the hint of licorice alongside dusty, drying tannins. On the polished, full-bodied palate, tightly knit, ­medium-bodied palate suggests dried cherry, orange Drink soon. Wineco Importing. —K.O. fine-grained tannins accompany dried cherry, orange rind and a hint of toasted nut. Dusty, drying tannins abv: 13.5% Price: $45 zest and licorice. Drink 2022–2027. Verve Imports. provide the setting. Maverick Selections. —K.O. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40 Valdipiatta 2017 Vigna d’Alfiero (Vino Nobile abv: 14.5% Price: $32 89 di Montepulciano). Underbrush, wild berry Fassati 2016 Salaracco Riserva (Vino Nobile di and coconut aromas come together on the 100% Tiberini 2016 Podere Le Caggiole (Vino 89 Montepulciano). Damp underbrush, leather­ Sangiovese. The taut, austere palate recalls sour 90 Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of vio- and blue-flower aromas mingle with a whiff of game. cherry, roasted coffee bean and toasted nut alongside let, red berry, baking spice and new leather form The earthy, no-frills palate offers driedcherry, ­ star tightly knit, grainy tannins that clench the finish. the nose on this fragrant blend of 90% Sangiovese, anise, sage and the same gamy note as the nose LLS–Winebow. —K.O. Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo. The vibrant palate is alongside dusty, rather drying tannins. Maverick abv: 13.5% Price: $50 already approachable, offering sour cherry, orange Selections. —K.O. zest, uncooked fennel and a note of crushed mint abv: 14% Price: $50

102 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Bindella 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Corte alla Flora 2015 Riserva (Vino Nobile Duca di Saragnano 2017 Vino Nobile di Monte­ 88 Linear and fragrant, this offers aromas of 87 di Montepulciano). Aromas of wood shop, 83 pulciano. Aromas of burned rubber and wild red berry, sunbaked earth and dark spice. The eucalyptus and a whiff of rose form the subdued scorched earth carry over to the lean, diluted palate taut, straightforward palate has Marasca cherry and nose. Made with Sangiovese, 10% Merlot and 10% along with the barest hint of prune. It also has green star anise alongside dusty, drying tannins. Vinaio Cabernet Sauvignon, this red has a palate that offers notes of powdered sage as well as astringent, fleet- Caprese. —K.O. more oak-driven spice, vanilla and candied notes ing tannins. Pazzione Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $27 alongside astringent, grainy tannins that clench the abv: 13% Price: $24 finish. It’s already evolved and doesn’t have the fruit Bindella 2017 I Quadri (Vino Nobile di Monte­ richness to stand up to the oak-driven sensations. 88 pulciano). French oak aromas take center Noble . —K.O. TOSCANA stage along with whiffs of camphor and underbrush. abv: 14% Price: $20 On the austere palate, assertive, close-grained tan- Castello dei Rampolla 2017 Sammarco nins accompany raisin, orange rind, licorice and Fattoria Del Cerro 2017 Silineo (Vino Nobile 96 (Toscana).­ A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, coffee bean while a note of powdered sage marks the 87 di Montepulciano). French oak, menthol and Sangiovese and Merlot, this delicious, juicy red astringent finish. Vinaio Caprese. —K.O. rose aromas slowly form in the glass. On the rather offers inviting aromas of new leather, blue flower, abv: 14.5% Price: $43 lean, austere palate, vanilla, espresso and candied ripe black-skinned fruit and grilled herb. On the notes accent a dried cherry core while close-grained smooth, savory palate, tightly knit, fine-grained Canneto 2015 Casina di Doro (Vino Nobile di tannins leave a dusty, drying finish. Drink through tannins seamlessly support fleshy black cherry, 88 Montepulciano). Aromas of burned rubber, 2025. Vias Imports. —K.O. raspberry compote, licorice and tobacco before violet and toasted nut mingle together on this San- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 closing on a mocha note. Drink through 2029. Vias giovese along with a whiff of camphor. On the dense Imports. Cellar­ Selection. —K.O. palate, the heat of alcohol accompanies prune, dried Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2017 Vino abv: 14% Price: $NA cherry and coffee bean before grainy, drying tan- 87 Nobile di Montepulciano. Blue flower, wild nins leave and astringent finish. Selected Estates of berry and a whiff of spice waft out of the glass. The Castello dei Rampolla 2016 d’Alceo ­Europe Ltd. —K.O. straightforward, no-frills palate offers ripe cherry 96 (Toscana).­ A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 15% Price: $42 and hints of star anise framed in dusty, rather dry- and Petit Verdot, this compelling wine opens with ing tannins. Drink through 2023. Saranty Imports. enticing aromas of ripe dark-skinned fruit, new Casale Daviddi 2015 Camaione (Vino Nobile —K.O. leather, pipe tobacco and menthol. Chewy and 88 di Montepulciano). Balsamic aromas of abv: 14% Price: $25 delicious, the palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, camphor mingle with leather, underbrush and blue crushed raspberry, star anise and baking spice flower on this earthy red. Made entirely with San- Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2017 framed in firm, refined tannins. It’s full bodied, with giovese, the medium-bodied palate offers prune, 86 ­Poggio Stella (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano).­ a weightless elegance and a crushed mint ­finish. blood orange vanilla and game alongside dusty, dry- Aromas of rose, graphite and botanical herb lift out Drink 2022–2028. Vias Imports. —K.O. ing tannins. Drink sooner rather than later to cap- of the glass along with a whiff of new leather. The abv: 14.5% Price: $NA ture the remaining fruit. Vinarium Inc. —K.O. medium-bodied, no-frills palate offers dried cherry, abv: 14% Price: $35 ground clove and a hint of dried mint alongside Isole e Olena 2017 Cepparello Sangiovese dusty, somewhat drying tannins. Drink through 94 (Toscana). Scorched earth, new leather, ripe Fattoria Del Cerro 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile 2024. Votto Vines Importing. —K.O. black-skinned berry and balsamic whiffs of camphor 88 di Montepulciano). Rose, graphite and oak- abv: 14% Price: $26 and cedar form the nose. Smooth and juicy, the driven aromas are front and center. The medium- savory palate delivers ripe Morello cherry, mature bodied palate opens with prune, licorice and coffee Duca di Cardino 2017 Vino Nobile di Monte­ plum, toasted hazelnut and ground clove set against bean before close-grained tannins shut it down with 85 pulciano. This has subtle aromas suggesting velvety, enveloping tannins. Drink 2022–2029. an astringent, tongue-drying close. Vias Imports. rose, weedy underbrush, eucalyptus oil and scorched Chambers & Chambers. —K.O. —K.O. earth. The light-bodied, lean palate recalls­ prune and abv: 15% Price: $95 abv: 14% Price: $36 roasted coffee bean alongside dusty, fleeting tannins that leave and abrupt, mouthdrying close. Lionstone Castello dei Rampolla 2018 Liù Merlot Gattavecchi 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepul­ International. —K.O. 93 (Toscana).­ New leather, menthol, cassis and 88 ciano. Dark-spice, new leather and sun- abv: 13% Price: $24 cured meat aromas lead the nose on this succulent baked earth aromas take shape in the glass. Austere Merlot. Savory and full bodied, the smooth, concen- and firm, the palate is bit lean in terms of fruit rich- Fattoria Svetoni 2017 Vino Nobile di Monte­ trated palate doles out mouthfuls of blackberry jam, ness, offering unripe cherry, orange rind and star 85 pulciano. Aromas suggesting weedy under­ Marasca cherry and star anise alongside polished, anise set against assertive, close-grained tannins brush, used leather and French oak lead the sub- enveloping tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it bright. that clench the finish. Give the tannins a few years dued nose. The lean, austere palate suggests unripe Drink through 2023. Vias Imports. —K.O. to unwind then drink sooner rather later. Deutsch berry, roasted coffee bean and green notes of pow- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Family Wine and Spirits. —K.O. dered sage, while raspy tannins leave an abrupt, abv: 14% Price: $25 ­astringent finish. Votto Vines Importing. —K.O. Castello dei Rampolla 2019 Santa Lucia abv: 14.5% Price: $45 92 Senza Solfiti Aggiunti Sangiovese (Tos- Gattavecchi 2016 Riserva dei Padri Serviti cana). Fresh and delicious, this 100% Sangiovese 88 (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2017 Can- has earthy aromas of sunbaked soil, truffle, leather weedy underbrush and leather lead the nose along 85 tina del Redi (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). and ripe plum. Made entirely in earthenware ves- with whiffs of dark culinary spice. The medium- This has aromas recalling underbrush, camphor and sels of cocciopesto (a blend of stone, sand, marl and bodied palate is rather light on its feet, offering a whiff of rose. The lean, austere palate opens with terra-cotta) and without added sulfites, the smooth, mature black cherry, prune and licorice alongside dried cherry and espresso before grainy tannins give juicy palate doles out ripe black cherry, blackberry, fresh acidity and dusty tannins that leave a drying it an abrupt, extremely astringent finish. Superior baking spice and mineral alongside supple tan- finish. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —K.O. Wines. —K.O. nins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. It’s made to abv: 14% Price: $27 abv: 13.5% Price: $60 be drunk young so enjoy soon. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Felsina 2017 Fontalloro Sangiovese (­Toscana). Tenuta Le Calcinaie 2016 Teodoro (Toscana). Diadema 2018 Damare (Toscana). This 92 Aromas of leather, camphor, underbrush 91 A blend of Sangiovese, 20% Merlot and 5% 89 blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer- and violet form the nose. The linear, medium- Cabernet Sauvignon, this opens with enticing aro- lot and Petit Verdot offers aromas of black-skinned bodied palate shows tart cherry, orange zest and mas of black-skinned berry, leather and cooking berry, mocha and coconut. The forward palate tobacco alongside grainy tannins that leave a rather spice. The savory, balanced palate offers blackberry shows blackberry jam, toasted oak and cooking drying finish. Polaner Selections. —K.O. jam, tobacco and clove alongside chewy tannins. spice alongside chewy tannins. Drink through 2026. abv: 13.5% Price: $62 Drink through 2027. de Grazia Imports, LLC. —K.O. Noble Harvest, LLC. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14% Price: $40 Marchesi Pancrazi 2018 Monte Ferrato Pinot 92 Nero (Toscana). Elegantly structured, this Brancatelli 2016 Valle del Sogno (Toscana). Il Palazzino 2018 Rosso del Palazzino 100% Pinot Nero is racy and loaded with finesse. It 90 This blend of organically grown Cabernet 89 (Toscana).­ Made with Sangiovese and small opens with aromas of rhubarb, red berry and baking Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc offers dark-skinned percentages of Canaiolo and Colorino, this has aro- spice that carry over to the focused palate along with fruit, cedar and mocha aromas. The chewy palate mas recalling red-skinned berry, violet and baking strawberry compote, mineral and licorice. Bright features blackberry jam, clove and white pepper spice. The juicy, easy-drinking palate offers rasp- acidity and refined, supple tannins provide energy alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2027. berry jam, clove and vanilla alongside smooth tan- and the polished framework. Drink through 2025. Uva Imports. —K.O. nins. Drink through 2023. de Grazia Imports, LLC. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $75 —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $16 La Selva 2019 Privo Organic Red (Toscana). Marchesi Pancrazi 2016 Vigna Baragazza 90 For full review see page 20. ­Best Buy. Il Palazzino 2016 Stagi Colorino (Toscana). 92 ­Pinot Nero (Toscana). Underbrush, eucalyp- abv: 14% Price: $15 89 This deeply colored wine opens with aromas tus, rhubarb and ripe berry form the nose on this of baked plum, underbrush and cedar. Made with 100% Pinot Nero. Elegantly structured and focused, Tenuta Le Calcinaie 2019 Ingredienti: Uva 100% Colorino, the solid palate offers ripe black- the linear palate features spiced cranberry, pome- 90 Sangiovese (Toscana). Made with no added berry, mocha and white pepper alongside firm tan- granate, star anise and a dollop of vanilla alongside sulfites, this 100% Sangiovese has aromas of red- nins. Drink through 2026. de Grazia Imports, LLC. polished tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. skinned berry, underbrush and baking spice. The —K.O. Drink through 2026. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. bright, juicy palate doles out red cherry, crushed abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA raspberry and cinnamon alongside taut tannins and lively acidity. It’s made to be enjoyed young, so Capezzana 2016 Ghiaie della Furba (Toscana).­ Tenuta Sette Cieli 2017 Indaco (Toscana). drink through 2023. de Grazia Imports, LLC. —K.O. 88 A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and 92 This blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Syrah, this offers aromas of toasted oak, espresso, Sauvignon opens with aromas of ripe black-skinned and ripe dark-skinned fruit. The extracted palate berry, Mediterranean herb and cedar. The firmly Tenuta Sette Cieli 2017 Scipio Cabernet offers raisin, roasted coffee bean and sage alongside structured palate delivers cassis, black currant, 90 Franc (Toscana). Made entirely with Caber- grainy, rather astringent tannins. Drink through licorice and black pepper alongside chewy tannins. net Franc, this offers aromas of toasted oak, green 2024. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. Drink through 2028. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. bell pepper and ripe dark-skinned fruit. The dense abv: 15% Price: $51 abv: 14.5% Price: $85 palate features black-currant jam, clove and sage alongside grainy tannins and a tart, drying finish. Casa di Terra 2019 Lenaia (Toscana). Made Certosa di Belriguardo 2016 Rosso di Clausura Drink through 2027. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. 88 entirely with Malbec, this opens with aro- 91 (Toscana). This blend of 80% Sangiovese abv: 15% Price: $125 mas of cassis, leather and graphite. The juicy palate and 20% Merlot offers aromas of cassis, forest floor offers dried blackberry, clove and vanilla alongside and tobacco. The savory, solid palate features black- Casa di Terra 2018 Poggio Querciolo Syrah velvety tannins. de Grazia Imports, LLC. —K.O. berry, clove and blood orange alongside dusty tan- 89 (Toscana). This Syrah has aromas of dark- abv: 13% Price: $19 nins that lead to a tart finish. Enjoy through 2028. skinned fruit, cedar and vanilla. The firm palate Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. —K.O. presents black-currant jam, licorice and mocha Gualdo del Re 2016 Quintorè Merlot (­Toscana). abv: 14% Price: $45 alongside polished tannins. de Grazia Imports, LLC. 88 This 100% Merlot has subdued aromas of —K.O. mocha, toasted oak and ripe dark-skinned fruit. Diadema 2018 Rosso (Toscana). A blend of abv: 13.5% Price: $32 The solid palate offers roasted coffee bean, prune 91 75% Sangiovese, 22% Merlot and 3% Petit and clove alongside close-grained, rather astrin- Verdot, this opens with aromas of black-skinned Certosa di Belriguardo 2017 Baccano gent tannins. Drink through 2024. The Wine Trust. berry, espresso and tobacco. The medium-bodied, 89 (Toscana).­ Made with 80% Sangiovese and —K.O. savory palate offers ripe black currant, vanilla 20% Syrah, this offers aromas of black-skinned abv: 14.5% Price: $153 and licorice alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink berry, green tea and tobacco. The savory palate through 2027. Noble Harvest, LLC. —K.O. displays black currant, cinnamon and white pep- Tenute di Mansalto 2018 Castello Rapale abv: 14% Price: $98 per alongside velvety tannins. Drink through 2025. 88 (Toscana). This blend of Cabernet Sauvi- ­Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. —K.O. gnon, Merlot and Sangiovese opens with aromas of Tenuta di Biserno 2019 Campo di Sasso abv: 14% Price: $25 dark-skinned fruit, tilled earth and cooking spice. 91 ­Insoglio del Cinghiale (Toscana). A blend of The dense, no-frills palate offers prune, clove and Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Certosa di Belriguardo 2016 Chiostro di ­Venere cedar alongside taut tannins. Drink through 2025. and Petit Verdot, this lithe red has aromas of cas- 89 (Toscana). Made with 60% Sangiovese and Trinity Beverage Group. —K.O. sis, blue flower and oak-driven spice. It’s medium 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, this has aromas of ripe abv: 14.5% Price: $38 bodied and smooth, featuring blueberry, blackberry black plum, roasted coffee bean and sunbaked soil. and star anise alongside polished tannins. Drink The dense palate offers sour cherry, espresso and Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano 2019 through 2022. Kobrand. —K.O. raw almond alongside close-grained tannins. Drink 88 Vin del Fattore Governo all’Uso Toscano abv: 14% Price: $34 through 2026. Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. (Toscana).­ Aromas of scorched earth, cooking spice —K.O. and dark-skinned fruit form the subtle nose on this abv: 14% Price: $NA 90% Sangiovese and 10% Ciliegiolo. The straight-

104 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 forward palate recalls prune, star anise and vanilla of saline while tangy acidity keeps it fresh and juicy. freshness give it an almost weightless feel. Drink alongside smooth tannins. Drink soon. Conexport Vineyard Brands. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. through 2026. Trinity Beverage Group. Editors’ Italy. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $19 Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $47 Umani Ronchi 2018 Vecchie Vigne ( Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano 2015 91 dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Made Fontanafredda 2016 Barolo. Aromas of red 88 Poco per Pochi (Toscana). Made with San- with organically farmed, old vines and aged in con- 91 woodland berry, menthol, rose and an earthy giovese, Ciliegiolo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and crete, this medium-bodied white has delicate aro- whiff of tilled soil are front and center on this lovely Merlot, this has aromas of sage, toasted oak and mas of white stone fruit, Spanish broom and a whiff red. The vibrant, elegant palate doles out straw- cooking spice. The straightforward, concentrated of hazelnut. Reflecting the nose, the rounded pal- berry compote, star anise and baking spice, along- palate shows blackberry jam, mocha and toasted ate offers ripe yellow pear, lemon drop and honeyed side taut, polished tannins. It’s already going down hazelnut alongside chewy tannins. Drink through almond alongside bright, tangy acidity. A hint of easily but will offer several years or more of sheer 2026. Conexport Italy. —K.O. saline lingers on the close. Vineyard Brands. —K.O. drinking pleasure. Enjoy through 2026. Taub Family abv: 14.5% Price: $100 abv: 13% Price: $40 Selections. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $47 Bonacchi 2018 Badesco (Toscana). A blend VERDICCHIO DEI 87 of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvi- gnon, this opens with roasted coffee bean, coconut CASTELLI DI JESI DOLCETTO D’ALBA and baking-spice aromas. The straightforward pal- ate offers prune, clove and espresso alongside dusty Umani Ronchi 2017 Plenio Riserva (Verdicchio Sandrone 2018 Dolcetto d’Alba. Savory and tannins. Tri-Vin Imports. —K.O. 89 dei Castelli di Jesi). This has delicate aromas 90 elegant, this lithe red has inviting aromas of abv: 14% Price: $20 suggesting chamomile, honey and balsamic aromas crushed berry, violet, star anise and botanical herb. of eucalyptus. The aromas carry over to the rounded The linear, juicy palate delivers Morello cherry, star Bonacchi 2018 Borghetto (Toscana). Made palate along with ripe yellow pear and toasted anise and a hint of bitter almond alongside grace- 86 with Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet almond before a hint of saline marks the close. ful tannins and bright acidity. Drink through 2022. Sauvignon, this has aromas recalling damp soil, It has an almost glycerine like texture. Vineyard Vintus LLC. —K.O. leather and clove. The simple palate offers red Brands. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $25 plum, ­vanilla and caramel alongside pliant tannins. abv: 13% Price: $40 Tri-Vin Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20 Umani Ronchi 2019 Villa Bianchi (Verdic- LANGHE 88 chio dei Castelli di Jesi). Tangy and fresh, this offers aromas of fragrant spring flower, tropical Cascina delle Rose 2019 Langhe. All about OTHER RED WINES fruit and citrus. On the tangy palate, crisp acidity 92 fragrance and finesse, this radiant red opens accompanies juicy pineapple, grapefruit and a hints with enticing scents of perfumed berry, menthol, Selvapiana 2017 Villa Petrognano (Pomino). of peach. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —K.O. rose petal and a hint of dried aromatic herb. Vini- 92 Fragrant and refined, this opens with entic- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 fied only in steel, it’s precise, pristine and delicious, ing scents of rose, violet, sandalwood and forest delivering strawberry compote, white pepper and floor. All about finesse, the elegantly structured pal- star anise alongside polished tannins. Bright acid- ate delivers ripe Marasca cherry, strawberry com- BARBERA D’ALBA ity keeps it fresh and focused. Polaner Selections. pote, star anise and ground cinnamon set against —K.O. firm, fine-grained tannins. It’s well balanced, with Anselma Giacomo 2018 Barbera d’Alba. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 fresh acidity. Drink 2023–2029. Dalla Terra Winery 90 Earthy and savory, this juicy red opens with Direct. —K.O. aromas of ripe Marasca cherry, truffle, tilled earth Ettore Germano 2019 Langhe. Bright and abv: 14.5% Price: $21 and blue flower. The smooth, succulent palate doles 88 savory, this shows Nebbiolo’s playful side, out ripe red cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise offering aromas and flavors of juicy red cherry, Frescobaldi 2019 Castiglioni (Chianti). A and white pepper framed in supple tannins. Drink botanical herb, menthol and star anise. Bright 88 blend of Sangiovese and 10% Merlot, this through 2022. Weygandt-Metzler. —K.O. acidity and lithe tannins keep it fresh and easygo- has pretty aromas of woodland berry, blue flower and abv: 14% Price: $NA ing. Drink through 2022. Sussex Wine Merchants. baking spice. Fresh and savory, the easygoing pal- —K.O. ate delivers juicy black cherry, cocoa and star anise Ettore Germano 2017 della Madre (Barbera abv: 13% Price: $NA framed in supple tannins. Shaw-Ross International 89 d’Alba). Ripe and concentrated, this has a Importers. —K.O. subtle nose that eventually reveals mature black- abv: 13% Price: $14 skinned fruit, toasted nut and cooking-spice aromas. SPARKLING WINES On the densely concentrated palate, polished tan- nins gently support fleshy black cherry, ripe plum Travaglini 2015 Metodo Classico Nebolè OTHER ITALY and white pepper. Sussex Wine Merchants. —K.O. 92 ­Dosaggio Zero (Vino Spumante). Made abv: 15% Price: $NA entirely with Nebbiolo, this vibrant sparkler offers VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI inviting aromas of white stone fruit, chamomile JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE and bread crust. On the bone-dry, savory palate, an BAROLO elegant perlage accompanies pomegranate, Empire Umani Ronchi 2018 Casal di Serra Bio (Verdic- apple and baking-spice notes lifted by crisp acid- 91 chio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Mirafiore 2016 Barolo. Delicate aromas of ity. A fennel note lingers on the close. Taub Family Aromas of botanical herb, white stone fruit and 93 forest berry, new leather, violet and cam- Selections. —K.O. ­almond carry on to the savory palate along with phor waft out of the glass. Elegantly structured, abv: 12.5% Price: $22 peach and a hint of lemon drop. It closes on a hint the savory palate doles out strawberry compote, crushed raspberry and star anise alongside bright Colonnara 2013 Metodo Classico Ubaldo Rosi acidity. It’s full bodied but the lithe tannins and the 91 Brut (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi). Aromas of

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BUYINGGUIDE hawthorn, ripe white stone fruit and botanical herb Dal Cero NV Rosé Brut Camely (Vino It’s a lavishly ripe, plumply textured sip balanced by waft out of the glass along with a hint of brioche. On 87 Spumante). Aromas of brioche, underbrush zingy lemon-lime acidity and a cooling mineral fin- the dry, foaming palate, crisp acidity and a refined and hazelnut mingle together. On the lively palate, ish. Best now–2023. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. perlage accompany mature yellow apple, lemon invigorating bubbles accompany juicy sour cherry, abv: 12% Price: $27 drop, thyme and hazelnut. Bluest Sky Group. —K.O. orange zest and a hint of walnut. Empson USA Ltd. abv: 12.5% Price: $90 —K.O. Fritz Haag 2019 Brauneberger Riesling abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 92 Trocken J (Mosel). Spicy notes of sunbaked Corte Giacobbe NV Brut (Vino Spumante). clay and slate penetrate through sunny yellow peach 90 Aromas of bread crust, toasted nut, graphite Damoli NV AvantGarde Nature (Vino and tangerine in this nuanced dry white. Equal parts and ripe stone fruit waft out of the glass. The aromas 87 Spumante). Made with the red grape fruit and earth bolstered against spine-tingling lime carry over to the racy, linear palate along with lemon C­orvina (of Amarone and fame), this acidity, it’s a complex but thirst-quenching wine drop and ginger set against a lively perlage. Empson blanc de noir sparkler has aromas of toasted bread that should drink at peak through 2025 but hold USA Ltd. —K.O. crust and nut. The aromas carry over to the lively longer as well. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA palate along with acacia honey and an invigorating abv: 12.5% Price: $30 perlage. Vino Veritas. —K.O. Dorigo NV Metodo Classico Blanc de Noir abv: 12.5% Price: $50 Ökonomierat Rebholz 2018 Birkweiler Vom 89 Dosaggio Zero (Vino Spumante). Subtle 92 Rotliegenden Riesling Trocken (Pfalz). Crisp aromas of botanical herb, hawthorn and cedar form Jako Wine 2015 Metodo Classico Pas Dosé pineapple, lime and lemon extend from nose to fin- the nose while the dry palate offers yellow apple, 87 (Vino Spumante). Aromas of medicinal herb, ish in this light-footed, laser-edged Riesling. Dry grapefruit and walnut. Crisp acidity and a lively grapefruit, lily flower and adhesive bandage follow in style yet invigorating and zippy, it’s a refreshing perlage provide the backdrop. Frederick Wildman & over to the dry palate along with bitter almond and contrast to increasingly voluptuous styles of dry Sons, Ltd. —K.O. yellow-apple skin. Racy acidity and steely bubbles German Riesling in riper vintages. Steely and long abv: 12.5% Price: $NA create a lean close. Strategic Importers. —K.O. on the finish, it should continue to develop nicely abv: 12.5% Price: $40 through 2028. The Collection. —A.I. Lungarotti NV Rosé Brut (Vino Spumante). abv: 12.5% Price: $49 89 Made with Pinot Grigio and Sangiovese, Lungarotti 2014 Extra Brut (Vino Spumante). this has delicate aromas suggesting pressed rose, 87 Aromas suggesting toasted nut and a whiff Schäfer-Fröhlich 2018 Riesling Trocken bread crust and botanical herb. The supple palate of adhesive bandage form the subdued nose. On the 92 (Nahe). Lime zest and graphite introduce shows sour cherry, hazelnut and a candied note lean and racy palate, brisk acidity accompanies sug- this piercing, strikingly mineral dry Riesling. Pierc- alongside bright acidity and a soft perlage. Frederick gestions of medicinal herb, lemon rind and bitter ing acidity and tangs of slate and steel on the palate Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. walnut. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. lend a firm, upright tone. An elegant, rather cerebral abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $NA wine that should meld beautifully now–2024. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. Lungarotti 2016 Brut (Vino Spumante). abv: 12% Price: $27 89 A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Nero, GERMANY this has aromas of bread crust and walnut. The Villa Wolf 2013 Wachenheimer Belz Library aromas follow over to the palate along with but- DRY RIESLING 92 Release Dry Riesling (Pfalz). It’s still rare in terscotch, mature yellow-apple skin and a dollop the U.S. for consumers to have access to dry, well- of vanilla. A lively perlage provides the setting. Schäfer-Fröhlich 2018 Vulkangestein Ries- aged Riesling, and the library-release bottlings from Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. 93 ling Trocken (Nahe). Smoke and struck flint Villa Wolf are both well-priced and high in quality. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA introduce this spicy, intensely mineral dry Riesling This full-bodied, deeply concentrated example is sourced from volcanic soils. It’s gorgeously steely showing its secondary characteristics beautifully Baracchi 2016 Metodo Classico Brut (Vino but packed with zesty grapefruit, lime and lemon now. Smoky and intensely earthen yet still fresh 88 Spumante). Made with , this has flavors as well. Slim in profile yet penetrating on the in lemon and lime, it’s a stately, textural wine that aromas of bread crust, citrus rind and white stone palate, it’s a wine that should improve well through should continue to develop well through 2030. fruit. The vibrant palate offers ripe yellow pear, can- 2028 and hold further. The German Wine Collec- Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. died orange slice and a hint of toasted walnut along- tion. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $32 side a soft perlage. Grapejuice Group. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $42 abv: 12.5% Price: $34 Dr. Loosen 2019 Red Slate Dry Riesling Villa Wolf 2013 Forster Pechstein Library 91 (Mosel). Sunbaked slate and dusty earth Dorigo NV Metodo Classico Brut (Vino 93 Release Dry Riesling (Pfalz). Glorious whiffs tones introduce this spry, spice-tinged Riesling. Dry 88 Spumante). White spring flower and white of petrichor and pristine white peach abound on and focused yet not at all stern in style, it offsets stone fruit aromas waft out of the glass. The ­gently this deeply concentrated library release. Full-bod- its mineral intensity with pristine lemon and white sparkling palate offers yellow apple, citrus and a ied and still fresh in demeanor, it offers a lovely peach flavors. A thirst-quenching, elegant wine hint of bread crust alongside crisp acidity. Frederick combination of bright peach and lemon flavors that’s best now–2024. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. against delicate maturity notes of earth, smoke and abv: 12% Price: $18 abv: 12.5% Price: $22 brine. A tug of tannins extends the finish along with a piercing strike of acidity. Lovely now but should Fritz Haag 2019 Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Colonnara NV Spumante Metodo Classico continue to gain interesting subtleties through the 91 Whiffs of plump white peach and pineapple 87 Luigi Ghisleri Brut (Verdicchio dei Castelli decade. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. on the nose contrast the steely intensity of this di Jesi). Made with Verdicchio grapes, this has abv: 13% Price: $40 totally dry, profoundly mineral Riesling. Focused unusual aromas recalling dill and celery that accent and gorgeously angular in style, it’s a refreshingly white stone fruit. The straightforward palate shows Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Bernkasteler svelte but concentrated expression of an intensely mature yellow apple, chestnut and toasted walnut 92 Alte Badstube Am Doctorberg Dry Riesling ripe vintage. A bit nervous in youth but should meld alongside lively bubbles. Bluest Sky Group. —K.O. (Mosel). Dry in style yet exuberantly fruity, this gorgeously through 2025. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $35 medium-bodied Riesling is packed to the rims with abv: 12% Price: $20 juicy Asian pear, tangerine and white peach flavors.

106 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Louis Guntrum 2018 Dry Riesling (Rheinhes- Drinks well now but should hold well through 2025. briskly balanced Riesling that’s likely to please a 91 sen). When asked what minerality tastes like Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. diverse crowd. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. in a wine, offering this dry, remarkably well-priced abv: 11.5% Price: $16 abv: 12% Price: $NA wine is the apt solution. From smoke and struck slate on the nose to an intriguingly spicy, crushed Gryphon Crest 2017 Dry Riesling (Rheinhes- mineral palate, this easy-drinking but elegant sip is 89 sen). Brisk tangs of lime and pineapple lend RIESLING KABINETT just what the doctor ordered. Full-bodied and silky, zest to this light-footed dry Riesling. Intently min- it’s at peak now–2024 but should hold further. eral on the palate, it’s a subtle yet thirst-quenching Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Bernkasteler Alte Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. white that’s ideal as an aperitif or party wine. Best 93 Badstube Am Doctorberg Riesling Kabinett abv: 13% Price: $20 now–2022. This cuvée is also labeled under the (Mosel). Preserved yellow peach and pineapple Hooked brand. The German Wine Collection. Best mingle with smoke and flint in this rich, powerful Pfeffingen 2019 Dry Riesling (Pfalz). Whiffs Buy. —A.I. off-dry Riesling. Reflective of a blockbuster vintage, 91 of lime zest and crushed stone mingle with abv: 12% Price: $14 it’s unusually robust in extraction and density for a crisp pineapple and grapefruit in this silky, textured Kabinett but a hedonistic, profoundly tropical sip dry Riesling. It’s zippy and spry but delightfully Hooked 2017 Dry Riesling (Rheinhessen). with a cheery, elegantly candied finish. Winesellers, mouthfilling, too, finishing long on tart white melon 89 Brisk tangs of lime and pineapple lend zest Ltd. —A.I. and lemongrass notes. An easy-drinking but elegant to this light-footed dry Riesling. Intently mineral on abv: 10% Price: $27 white that appeals broadly, it should be at peak the palate, it’s a subtle yet thirst-quenching white now–2023. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. that’s ideal as an aperitif or party wine. Best now– Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Graacher Himmel- abv: 12% Price: $20 2022. This cuvée is also labeled under the Gryphon 92 reich Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Luscious Crest brand. The German Wine Collection. Best in texture and voluminous on the palate, this pro- Robert Weil 2019 Riesling Trocken (Rhein- Buy. —A.I. foundly ripe off-dry Riesling offers juicy lemon and 91 gau). Fully dry yet slim in profile, this sleek, abv: 12% Price: $14 lime flavors edged by plumes of green floral perfume. penetrating Riesling offers elegance beyond its easy It’s a rich expression of Kabinett, but a zippy spine price point. Kissed by sprays of white blossom and Ökonomierat Rebholz 2018 Riesling Trocken of acidity lends balance and leads a long, stony fin- piercing grapefruit flavor, it’s a thirst-quenching, 89 (Pfalz). Notes of lemon, lime and goose- ish. At peak now–2025. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. zesty white best enjoyed now–2024. Loosen Bros. berry lend bristling freshness to this dry, medium- abv: 10% Price: $23 USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. bodied Riesling. Steely and bracing on the palate, abv: 12% Price: $20 it’s a savory, slightly smoky sip that’s marked by a Maximin Grünhäuser 2019 Herrenberg Ries- fringe of bitters on the finish. Ready now but should 92 ling Kabinett (Mosel). Hibiscus nectar Von Buhl 2018 Bone Dry Riesling (Pfalz). Aro- drink well through 2024. The German Wine Collec- and lime blossoms perfume this beautifully pure- 91 mas of tart greengage plum and lime blos- tion. —A.I. fruited, feather-light Kabinett. It’s delectably off- soms meld into grapefruit and lemon on the palate abv: 12.5% Price: $24 dry, balancing pert lemon acidity against pristine of this dry, medium-bodied white. Deeply extracted honeydew and white peach flavors. Piercing and and fringed by a whisper of tea tannin, it’s a sol- Peter Nicolay 2019 Ürziger Würzgarten Dry steely on the finish, it’s at peak now–2025 but will idly structured Riesling that could accompany even 89 Riesling (Mosel). Smoky spice and bright hold much longer. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. heartier dishes like pork or beef with ease. Ready tropical fruit introduce this succulent yet spine- abv: 7.5% Price: $34 now but should drink well through 2023. The Ger- tingling dry white. It’s a briskly concentrated, racy man Wine Collection. —A.I. sip with a lingering tangerine finish. Best enjoyed Willems-Willems 2018 Saar Riesling Kabi- abv: 12% Price: $21 now–2024. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. 92 nett Oberemmel Altenberg (Mosel). Just abv: 12.5% Price: $NA one whiff of this smoky, salty Kabinett places you Wittmann 2019 Estate Riesling Trocken (Rhe- in the Saar. Exceptionally light on its feet and pul- 91 inhessen). Dry in style and light as a feather, Villa Huesgen 2019 By The Glass Riesling sating with flavors of zippy lime, grapefruit and this perfumed Riesling wafts of orange blossoms 89 Trocken (Mosel). Cooling tones of fresh green apple, it’s a slim yet penetrating little Riesling and lime zest. Racy acidity is offset by mouthwater- mint and green melon rind introduce this slim, that’s particularly delicious young but concentrated ing grapefruit and white peach flavors on the palate. pure-fruited dry Riesling. Exceptionally light on enough to hold for years to come. The German Wine A fantastic entry-level offering from a consistently its feet and racy in style, it’s a lime-inflected white Collection. —A.I. outstanding producer that’s at peak now–2023 but that’s ideal as an accompaniment to anything from abv: 7.5% Price: $24 likely to hold further still. Loosen Bros. USA. Edi- sushi to roast chicken. Best now–2024. Miller tors’ Choice. —A.I. Squared Inc. —A.I. Bollig-Lehnert 2019 Trittenheimer Apotheke abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 11.5% Price: $16 91 Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Shades of slate and sunbaked earth permeate into pink grapefruit and Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2019 Dry Ries- Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2018 guava in this piercing ballerina-like Kabinett. Laced 90 ling (Mosel). For full review see page 16. 89 Vom Kalk Niersteiner Riesling Trocken-Dry with sweet nectar and backed by a firm undertone abv: 12% Price: $17 Kabinett (Rheinhessen). Bright yellow peach and of acidity and steel, it’s a laser-edged white that nectarine flavors are edged by chalky, dusty mineral finishes on a long, intensely mineral crush. Irresist- Dr. Loosen 2019 Dr. L Dry Riesling (Mosel). tones in this fresh-fruited yet deeply earthen wine. ible in youth but concentrated enough to drink well 90 For full review see page 20. Best Buy. Dry and full-bodied yet steely and focused, it fin- through 2025, at least. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $12 ishes on a fringe of spice. Best now–2023. Winesell- abv: 8% Price: $18 ers, Ltd. —A.I. Wittmann 2019 100 Hills Dry Riesling abv: 13% Price: $15 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2019 Wehlener 90 (Rheinhessen). Spicy, dusty mineral notes 91 Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Hints introduce this very spry, lemon-lime sip. Dry and Peter Nicolay 2019 Dry Riesling (Mosel). of yellow peach and cut stone are delicate on the slim in profile, it’s a refreshingly zippy expression 88 Yellow peach and nectarine flavors are lip- nose but amass power and concentration on the of Riesling from a ripe, rather voluptuous vintage. smacking and zesty in this bright-fruited but dry palate. Sumptuously off-dry, it’s a honeyed, nec- white. At peak now–2023, it’s an easy-drinking, tar-like sip that’s packed with juicy nectarine and tangerine flavors framed by a zesty spine of acidity.

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Penetrating through a long finish, it should drink Villa Huesgen 2019 Riesling Kabinett Fein- Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2019 Ber- at peak through 2025 and hold further still. Miller 90 herb (Mosel). In true feinherb style, there’s 92 nkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Ries- Squared Inc. —A.I. barely any perceptible residual sugar in this zingy ling Spätlese (Mosel). For full review see page 10. abv: 10% Price: $25 lightsaber of a Riesling. Zippy streaks of lime, lemon abv: 8% Price: $30 and grapefruit invigorate the senses and leave a long, Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Bernkasteler Bad- steely finish. Quite delightful young but should hold Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Bernkasteler Bad- 91 stube Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Juicy pine- through 2023. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. 92 stube Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Subtle apple and crystalline mineral tones abound in this abv: 10.5% Price: $18 aromas of honeydew and lime gain a tropical flair profoundly ripe but briskly balanced Kabinett. Off- on the palate of this juicy, profoundly fruity sweet dry and delightfully salty on the finish, it’s an easy- Weingut Albert Gessinger 2018 Zeltinger Riesling. Light-bodied but richly extracted in guava, drinking yet elegant, linear sip anchored by a back- 88 Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben mango and tangerine flavors, it’s a juicy wine that’s bone of steel. Ready now but should drink at peak (Mosel). Crisp honeydew and lime notes are etched delightful young but structured enough to develop through 2025. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. by hints of bee pollen and caramelized sugar in this complexity for another decade at least. Winesellers, abv: 10% Price: $20 delicately sweet Riesling. It’s a juicy, thirst-quench- Ltd. —A.I. ing sip with bright acidity and a pleasant murmur abv: 8% Price: $26 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Wehlener Son- of bitters on the finish. Drink now. Kysela Père et 91 nenuhr Riesling Kabinett Mosel). Passion fruit Fils. —A.I. Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Wehlener Son- and guava flavors are slicked with honey and lime abv: 10% Price: $24 92 nenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Tropical in this penetrating off-dry Riesling. It’s a powerfully flavors abound throughout this producer’s lineup of fruity sip countered by a bold spine of acidity. A bit 2019 Spätlese, but piercing flavors of guava, pink nervous in youth, it should meld and improve over RIESLING SPÄTLESE grapefruit and mango make this bottling particu- the next few years. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. larly exuberant. It’s profoundly ripe and succulent abv: 8% Price: $27 Dr. Hermann 2018 Erdener Herzlei Riesling in sweetness but balanced neatly by crisp tangerine 94 Spätlese Alte Reben (Mosel). Slicks of honey acidity and a clean, mineral finish. At peak now– Peter Nicolay 2019 Bernkastel Badstube Ries- and yellow peach are dusted by slate and scorched 2025 but should hold much further. Winesellers, 91 ling Kabinett (Mosel). This is a delightfully earth in this profoundly concentrated Spätlese. It’s Ltd. —A.I. spine-tingling off-dry Riesling that jolts the senses light as a feather but packed with powerful, pulsat- abv: 11.5% Price: $28 awake with piercing flavors of honeydew nectar, ing tangerine and orchard-fruit flavors and held lime and crushed slate. It’s exuberant and juicy but upright by a zippy spine of acidity. An exhilarating, Mönchhof 2018 Slate Riesling Spätlese complex and intensely mineral, too, finishing long intensely fruity wine now but should continue to 92 (Mosel). Struck slate and petrichor intro- on a Margarita-like kiss of salt and lime sorbet. Gor- develop complexity for decades. Broadbent Selec- duce this unmistakably Mosel Riesling. Pineapple geous in youth but concentrated enough to drink tions, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. and white peach flavors are profoundly ripe, sweet- at peak through 2025 and hold longer still. Miller abv: 7% Price: $50 ening the palate with streaks of honey and nectar, Squared Inc. —A.I. but it’s a balanced, reverberating sip that finishes abv: 10% Price: $NA Bastgen 2018 Paulinshofberg Riesling Spät- on staccato notes of acidity and steel. At peak now– 93 lese (Mosel). Spicy notes of struck flint and 2025. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. Ulrich Langguth 2019 Piesporter Günterslay slate lend earthen complexity to ripe, richly concen- abv: 8.5% Price: $32 91 Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Pert, cutting notes trated pineapple and yellow peach flavors. Light- of lime zest and green apple are dusted with salt and bodied but laser-edged in focus, it’s a racy, semi- Peter Nicolay 2019 Bernkastel Badstube slate in this bracing, classically Mosel Riesling. An sweet Riesling that awakens the palate and leaves 92 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). A touch of pollen electric shade of off-dry, it’s a zappy lemon-lime sip a long, steely finish. Enjoyable already but should lends complexity to pure, pristine lime, guava and marked by piercing acidity and a lingering, delicate evolve beautifully for decades. Kysela Père et Fils. grapefruit in this jubilant, fruit-focused Riesling. sweetness. Delicious now but should drink well —A.I. Medium-sweet and spry on the palate, it’s a juicy, through 2025, at least. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $35 deeply concentrated wine that should drink at peak abv: 8% Price: $21 through 2030 and hold further still. Miller Squared Fritz Haag 2019 Brauneberger Juffer Ries- Inc. —A.I. Dr. Hermann 2019 Ürziger Würzgarten Ries- 93 ling Spätlese (Mosel). A crush of salty, slaty abv: 8% Price: $NA 90 ling Kabinett (Mosel). Sourced from the minerals peppers pristine white peach and pink famed Würzgarten, or spice garden, there’s an spicy, grapefruit flavors in this luminous medium-sweet Weingut Albert Gessinger 2018 Zeltinger smoky sheen that lends an earthen backdrop to this Riesling. It’s a deftly balanced sip, calibrating glori- 92 Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Josefberg Old lip-smacking sip. Kissed by honeysuckle nectar, it’s ous fruit flavors against spine-tingling, steely acid- Vines (Mosel). Ripe honeydew and white peach delectably off-dry but racy, with acidity, too. The ity. Irresistible in youth but likely to develop well flavors penetrate this rich, intensely concentrated finish is long and marked by piercing yellow peach for at least a decade and hold further still. Loosen Spätlese. It’s sumptuously sweet and weighty on and apricot flavors. At peak now–2025 but should Bros. USA. —A.I. the palate yet balanced by zippy lime acidity and hold further. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $34/500 ml a lingering spray of crushed stones. Just reaching abv: 8.5% Price: $27 peak now, it should drink well for a decade to come. Weller-Lehnert 2019 Piesporter Goldtröp- Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. Mönchhof 2018 Ürzig Würzgarten Riesling 93 fchen Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Sun- abv: 8.5% Price: $37 90 Kabinett (Mosel). A crush of stony mineral drenched passion fruit and mango abound from notes introduces this spry, thirst-quenching Ries- nose to finish in this gloriously tropical sip. While Bollig-Lehnert 2019 Piesporter Goldtröpf- ling. Off-dry in style, it’s packed with juicy lime and ballerina-like in structure, it packs a powerful 91 chen Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Delicate but lemon flavors accented by veins of smoke and struck punch of juicy, intensely concentrated fruit backed perfumed, this deft, sprightly Riesling offers rich, flint. Ready now but should drink at peak through by a steely, spine-tingling frame of acidity. Hard to concentrated pink grapefruit and white peach fla- 2024. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. resist now for its fruity exuberance but should hold vors etched by lime and steel. It’s a juicy, thirst- abv: 8.5% Price: $27 much longer. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. quenching wine that’s gobs of fun to drink young abv: 9% Price: $31

108 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 but should continue to drink beautifully through green-fruited wine. Off-dry and racy on the palate, 2029. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. RIESLING AUSLESE it’s a spine-tingling, lime-kissed sip that finishes abv: 8% Price: $22 with a tickle of effervescence. A joy to drink young Fritz Haag 2019 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling but should hold well through 2024. The German Dr. Leimbrock 2018 Graacher Himmelreich 94 Auslese (Mosel). Intoxicating smells of pet- Wine Collection. —A.I. 91 Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (Mosel). Lime zest richor, slate and smoke accent ripe honeydew and abv: 10.5% Price: $27 and green apples perfume this zesty, green-fruited lemon. It’s a smoldering yet ballerina-like Auslese sip. Properly feinherb in style, there’s just a whisper that undulates with sweet honey and nectar on the Reinhold Haart 2018 Estate Medium Dry Ries- of sweetness glazing the palate like lace against a palate. A stunningly balanced expression of the 91 ling (Mosel). This is a smoldering, intensely backdrop of pristine, spine-tingling gooseberry and Mosel from an exceptionally ripe vintage. Delight- mineral wine studded with piercing lemon and grapefruit flavor. An energizing wine that’s delicious ful already but should reward for decades to come. grapefruit flavors. Spine-tingling acidity is coun- now but should hold well through 2024. Kysela Père Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. tered neatly by a delicate sheen of sweetness along et Fils. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $44 with hints of pastry, cut stone and spice. Quite com- abv: 11% Price: $35 plex for such a value-priced wine, it should drink Heinz Eifel 2019 Riesling Auslese (Mosel). well through 2025 at least. The German Wine Col- Ulrich Langguth 2019 Piesporter Günterslay 89 Whiffs of pineapple and white peach gain lection. —A.I. 91 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). The nose is quite power and concentration on the palate of this very abv: 12% Price: $23 subtle on this smoky, laser-edged Riesling, but the juicy, fruity sip. It’s a plump, elegantly sweet Ries- palate pierces with pristine pineapple and grape- ling balanced by a fresh mineral tone and piercing Zilliken 2019 Estate Riesling (Mosel). Glori- fruit flavors. It’s a featherweight, semisweet white lemon-lime acidity. An approachable, refreshing 91 ously tropical yet etched by layers of slate, that balances lacy sweetness against zippy streaks style of Auslese at peak now–2025. Winesellers, earth and spice, this well-priced, delightfully easy- of lime and lemon acidity. The finish lingers on Ltd. —A.I. drinking sip is a fantastic introduction to Zilliken’s tangs of slate and steel. Best now–2030 but should abv: 8% Price: $15 luminous, complex style. Just a shade off-dry, it bal- hold further. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. ances delicate sweetness against laser-light jolts of abv: 7.5% Price: $26 acidity and steel. Delightful now but concentrated OTHER RIESLING enough to drink well through at least 2024. The Heinz Eifel 2019 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). German Wine Collection. —A.I. 89 This is such a juicy, intensely fruity wine Fritz Haag 2019 Brauneberger Juffer Ries- abv: 9% Price: $22 packed with mouthwatering honeydew and mango 93 ling Feinherb (Mosel). The feinherb, or off- flavors. Off-dry and a bit honeyed in style, it’s a dry designation, of this single-vineyard bottling Dr. Hermann 2019 Dr. H Riesling (Mosel). light-bodied but luscious sip that drinks delight- appears only in small print on the back label here. 90 Struck flint and honeydew introduce this fully young. Winesellers, Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. When tasted blind, its residual sugar was almost lip-smacking, fruity off-dry Riesling. It’s a juicy, abv: 8% Price: $14 imperceptible. What you get, rather, are ebullient, thirst-quenching wine marked by pristine white electric white peach and lemon-lime flavors collid- grapefruit and yellow plum flavors but grounded by Leonard Kreusch 2019 Piesporter Michels- ing against a backdrop of crushed slate and earth. a firm undertone of minerality. Approachable yet 89 berg Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). This is a Medium-bodied and quite dry on the finish, it’s refined, it should drink well through 2024. Broad- profoundly fruity, forward sip packed with tropical an irresistible, thirst-quenching sip that’s perfect bent Selections, Inc. —A.I. melon, orange and mango flavors. Subtle under- young but likely to drink at peak through 2025 at abv: 10.5% Price: $19 tones of earth and pollen along with sunny lemon least. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. acidity lend balance throughout. Best enjoyed now– abv: 12.5% Price: $40 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2022 to enjoy its youthful exuberance. Leonard 90 2019 Riesling Feinherb (Mosel). Staccato Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2019 Single Vine- notes of caramelized honey and lime zest abound abv: 8% Price: $16 91 yard Wehlener Klosterberg Offdry Riesling in this spine-tingling white. Just a hint off-dry in (Mosel). Exuberantly tropical notes of mango and style, it’s a zippy, electric shock of steel and acidity Kreuznacher 2019 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen papaya are offset by spice and crushed earth in this softened by flavors of pristine lemon, white grape- 88 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Subtle notes of intensely fruity, exhilarating Riesling. It’s just a fruit and green apple. A lovely sip to enjoy young. green melon rind and gooseberry on the nose gain a shade off-dry with just enough sweetness to balance Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. honeyed sweetness on the palate of this fresh, easy- out racy acidity. A highly quaffable, invigorating sip abv: 10.5% Price: $17 drinking Riesling. Off-dry in style and balanced that’s at peak now–2025 but should hold longer by cutting lime acidity, it’s a refreshing sip best still. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2019 Offdry enjoyed now–2023. Wein Bauer Inc. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $20 90 Riesling (Mosel). Delicate hints of steel abv: 8.5% Price: $14 and slate mingle with white blossom and peach on Maximin Grünhäuser 2019 Monopol Ries- the nose of this seductive off-dry Riesling. Spine- Fritz Windisch 2018 Piesporter Goldtröpf- 91 ling (Mosel). There’s barely any perceptible tingling and pristinely fruity, it’s packed with sunny 87 chen Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Hints of pol- residual sugar on the palate of this crisp, profoundly tangerine and grapefruit flavors etched by crys- len and dusty minerals lend an earthen undertone mineral Riesling. A well-priced bottling sourced talline minerality. A thirst-quenching wine best to unctuous pineapple and yellow peach flavors. entirely from the estate’s monopole single vineyard, enjoyed young. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. Medium-sweet and zippy on the palate, it balances it offers crisp, cutting notes of honeydew and green- abv: 10.5% Price: $17 rich, slightly caramelized fruit tones against spine- gage plums dusted with slate and crushed earth. A tingling lime acidity. Best enjoyed now–2023. Regal uniquely zippy expression of a profoundly ripe vin- Fritz Haag 2019 Riesling (Mosel). Fritz Wine Imports Inc. —A.I. tage, it’s drinking beautifully young but should hold 90 Haag’s value entry-level Riesling shares abv: 9% Price: $18 well through 2025. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. the same smoky, seductive spice and earth tones of abv: 12% Price: $22 the producer’s more expensive single-vineyard bot- tlings, but with an immediately approachable fruiti- Mönchhof 2018 Riesling (Mosel). Swathes ness and zeal. Just a shade off-dry, it’s packed with 91 of freshly cut herb and crushed slate extend thirst-quenching white grapefruit and peachy good- from nose to palate in this exceptionally zippy,

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BUYINGGUIDE ness anchored by a firm, mineral undertone. Best concentrated, it’s a straightforward but hedonistic Medium sweet in style but balanced by fresh acid- now–2023. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. crowd-pleaser that begs to be enjoyed young. Wine- ity, it’s a straightforward, juicy sip best enjoyed abv: 11% Price: $20 sellers, Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. young. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $12 abv: 9.5% Price: $13 Maximin Grünhäuser 2019 Maximin Ries- 90 ling (Mosel). Crisp green apples and white Gryphon Crest 2018 Riesling (Mosel). This is Twisted River 2019 Bin 168 Riesling (Mosel). blossoms perfume this luminously fresh, mouth- 89 a pert, easy-drinking Riesling packed with 85 The nose is subtly earthen, but the palate watering white sourced from a handful of vineyards pristine yellow cherry and white peach flavors. It’s offers soft, juicy flavors of preserved yellow peach in the Mosel-Ruwer region outside of the estate’s a fresh, fruity sip framed by spine-tingling acid- and tangerine. It’s a loosely knit, semi-dry Ries- monopole. An ideal introduction to the zippy Maxi- ity and an elegant rim of bitters on the finish. Best ling that’s brightened by sunny lemon acidity. Best min Grünhaus style, it’s a crowd-pleasing, lemon- now–2023. This cuvée is also labeled under the enjoyed young. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. lime sip that finishes with just a trace of balancing Hooked brand. The German Wine Collection. Best abv: 11% Price: $13 sweetness on the finish. Best now–2024. Loosen Buy. —A.I. Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $14 abv: 12% Price: $16 PINOT BLANC Hansen-Lauer 2018 Bernkasteler Badstube Weingut Karp-Schreiber 2019 My Karp Ries- 89 Riesling (Mosel). Crisp green apple and Ökonomierat Rebholz 2018 Im Sonnenschein 90 ling Feinherb (Mosel). Layers of smoky, grapefruit on the nose turn riper on the palate of 95 GG Pinot Blanc (Pfalz). From nose to fin- dusty mineral and earth lend savory complexities to this light-bodied but richly concentrated white. ish, there’s so much complexity to be found in this dazzling yellow cherry, peach and tangerine flavors Off-dry and plush in fruit, it’s balanced neatly by landmark German Pinot Blanc. It’s dry and silken in in this ripe but zippy white. Approachably fruity yet zippy lime acidity. The finish is long and marked by texture, with delicate pear and yellow apple flavors focused and pure, it’s held upright by streaks of lime a hint of dry earth. Best enjoyed young. Kysela Père anchored by veins of smoky, crystalline minerality acidity and a firm, steely finish. Delicious young but et Fils. —A.I. and racy lime acidity. A subtle, steely wine in youth should hold through 2024. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $25 that will develop greater power and intensity with abv: 11% Price: $16 time. Best 2023–2030. The German Wine Collec- Hooked 2018 Riesling (Mosel). This is a tion. Cellar Selection. —A.I. Zilliken 2019 Butterfly Riesling (Mosel). 89 pert, easy-drinking Riesling packed with abv: 13.5% Price: $110 90 Just a whisper of sweetness accents plump pristine yellow cherry and white peach flavors. It’s white grapefruit and lime flavors in this almost-dry, a fresh, fruity sip framed by spine-tingling acid- Wagner-Stempel 2018 Siefersheim Weiss- lusciously textured Riesling. A blossomy, perfumed ity and an elegant rim of bitters on the finish. Best 95 burgunder Trocken (Rheinhessen). Stony white held upright by brisk acidity and a long, stony now–2023. This cuvée is also labeled under the minerality extends from nose to palate, lending finish, it’s at peak now–2024. Rudi Wiest Selec- Gryphon Crest brand. The German Wine Collection. weight and gravitas to concentrated yellow peach tions. —A.I. Best Buy. —A.I. and Mirabelle plum flavors. Sourced from volcanic abv: 11% Price: $22 abv: 10.5% Price: $14 soils of the Siefersheim vineyard, it’s an intensely ripe, voluptuous Pinot Blanc anchored by firm Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2019 Blitz Ries- Raimund Prüm 2019 Essence Riesling strikes of steel and smoke. While a bit nervous in 89 ling (Mosel). This is an intensely juicy 89 (Mosel). For full review see page 21. Best youth, it should blossom gloriously from 2023 to medium-dry Riesling bursting with sun-drenched Buy. 2030. The German Wine Collection. Cellar Selec- honeydew, white peach and guava flavors. Light on abv: 10.5% Price: $14 tion. —A.I. its feet but richly concentrated in fruit, it’s a lip- abv: 13% Price: $38 smacking, zesty white that’s particularly appealing St. Urbans-Hof 2019 Nik Weis Urban Riesling young. Miller Squared Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. 89 (Mosel). For full review see page 21. Best Friedrich Becker 2018 Becker Family Pinot abv: 10% Price: $11 Buy. 92 Blanc (Pfalz). Delicate notes of toast and abv: 10.5% Price: $13 hazelnut accent bristling yellow apple and Meyer Dr. Loosen 2019 Dr. L Riesling (Mosel). This lemon flavors in this delightfully fresh, piercing 89 is a joyously juicy, fruity off-dry Riesling Ulrich Langguth 2019 Gourmet Riesling Fein- white. Dry and steely yet plump on the palate, it’s packed with sun-drenched yellow cherry and peach 89 herb (Mosel). Just a whisper off-dry and remarkably well-priced for such a stately wine. flavors. Fresh with lemon-lime acidity and feather- zippy on the palate, Gourmet is an apt name for this Ready now but should drink well through 2024 at light on its feet, it’s an easy-drinking, revitalizing style of zesty, food-friendly Riesling. Quaffable and least. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. sip that rewards youthful drinking. Loosen Bros. spry, it offers crisp flavors of green apple and honey- abv: 12.5% Price: $22 USA. Best Buy. —A.I. dew lifted by zesty lime acidity on the midpalate. At abv: 8.5% Price: $12 peak now but should hold well through 2023. Miller Ökonomierat Rebholz 2018 Dry Pinot Blanc Squared Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. 92 (Pfalz). Cutting notes of green melon and Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Erdener Treppchen abv: 11% Price: $14 lime skin introduce this full-bodied but delightfully 89 Offdry Riesling (Mosel). The nose is subtle zippy Pinot Blanc. A well-priced, entry-level bot- and earthy, a contrast to ripe, sunny tangerine and Schmitt Söhne 2019 Relax Riesling (Ger- tling from the grandmaster of German Pinot Blanc, pineapple flavors in this light-footed off-dry white. 87 many). While the nose is quiet, there’s loads it’s a supple, fresh-fruited sip backed by a racy Piercing lime acidity and steely notes on the mid- of easy, juicy white peach and grapefruit flavors in backbone of acidity and a long, chalky finish. Ready palate accentuate it’s zesty, invigorating feel. Best this straightforward medium-sweet Riesling. Sunny now but should reward through 2024, at least. The enjoyed now–2024. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. tangerine acidity and just a whiff of freshly laun- German Wine Collection. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $28 dered linen linger on the finish. Drink now. Delicato abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Family Wines. —A.I. Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Noble House Ries- abv: 9% Price: $14 Wagner-Stempel 2018 Gutswein Weissbur- 89 ling (Mosel). In line with an exceptionally 92 gunder Trocken (Rheinhessen). Wagner- ripe vintage, the 2019 Noble House is an exuber- Leonard Kreusch 2019 Riesling (Mosel). Stempel’s entry-level Pinot Blanc is a profoundly antly tropical, fruit-forward sip packed with lus- 85 While light in body, there’s a slightly trea- smoky, mineral sip. Apple, pear and lemon flavors cious mango, tangerine and guava flavors. Juicy and cly nature to candied lemon and tangerine flavors. are crisp and cutting, accented by zippy lime acidity

110 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 and a firm, steely finish. A remarkably solid, weighty Wittmann 2019 100 Hills Weissburgunder dry white that should drink well through 2025. The 90 Trocken (Rheinhessen). Dry and intently OTHER WHITE WINES German Wine Collection. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. steely, this light-bodied, electric white offers zesty abv: 13% Price: $22 pear and lemon flavors etched by flint and slate. It’s Friedrich Becker 2016 Mineral Chardonnay a refreshing, zingy sip that’s best enjoyed young but 95 (Pfalz). Smoky tones of struck flint and Lucashof 2019 Pinot Blanc Trocken (Pfalz). will hold through 2024. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. toast linger from nose to finish in this gorgeously 91 Freshly cut pear and white blossoms abound abv: 12.5% Price: $16 steely Chardonnay. Moderately full-bodied yet in this light-bodied yet juicy white. Backed by zippy piercing and focused, it’s marked by zesty flavors streaks of lemony acidity and a bristling mineral of green apple and lemon etched by streaks of lime undertone, it’s a dry, invigorating Pinot Blanc that PINOT GRIS and chalk. Tasted in late 2020, it’s a bit nervous in should please a wide audience. At peak now–2024 youth but should be at peak from 2023–2030 and but can hold further. HB Wine Merchants. —A.I. Friedrich Becker 2018 Becker Family Pinot hold longer still. The German Wine Collection. Cel- abv: 12% Price: $19 91 Gris (Pfalz). Pinot Gris (aka Pinot Grigio) is lar Selection. —A.I. a pink-hued grape and this pretty, coppery-pink abv: 13.5% Price: $97 Maximin Grünhäuser 2019 Pinot Blanc wine tiptoes the line between a white and rosé 91 (Mosel). Delicate hints of toast, green apple wine. Macerated on its skins for 12–18 hours, it Hans Wirsching 2019 Trocken (Fran- and hazelnut skin introduce this dry, smoky Pinot offers concentrated raspberry and red apple flavors 91 ken). This is such a perfumed, fresh-fruited Blanc. Light-bodied yet quite silky in texture, it against a backdrop of citrusy acidity and a clean sip packed with pristine honeydew and lemon fla- offers concentrated pear and grapefruit flavors mineral tang. Dry and delightfully refreshing, it’s a vors. Dry and light on its feet, it’s a wonderfully against a dramatic, smoldering backdrop. Freshly fantastic year-round accompaniment to everything thirst-quenching white with a long, intensely min- balanced and thirst-quenching, it’s a lovely wine to from fish to game. The German Wine Collection. eral finish. A fantastic value for an elegant wine enjoy through 2027. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. with wide appeal. Best now–2024. The German abv: 12.5% Price: $24 abv: 13% Price: $24 Wine Collection. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 Salwey 2018 Kabinett Weissburgunder Salwey 2018 Kabinett Dry Pinot Gris (Baden). 91 Trocken (Baden). Wisps of smoke, lime 91 Hints of smoke and cashew accent zippy Pflüger 2020 Quarzit Sauvignon Blanc blossom and pear collide in this fresh-footed dry lemon, apple and grapefruit flavors in this dry, 91 Trocken (Pfalz). Gorgeously tropical notes white. Green melon and apple flavors are pristine medium-bodied white. Fresh-fruited yet anchored of guava and passion fruit are etched by veins of on the palate, edged by a fine filigree of cut stone by a firm mineral undertone, it’s a vibrant, juicy jalapeño and lime in this delightfully fruity, spicy and a zesty lemon acidity that lingers on the fin- wine that’s substantial enough to drink well through white. While light in body and slim in mouthfeel, ish. A refreshing, elegant wine that’s ready now but 2024. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. it’s a penetrating, sharply edged Sauvignon Blanc should hold through 2024. The German Wine Col- abv: 12.5% Price: $24 that’s irresistible young. Valckenberg International, lection. —A.I. Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $24 Villa Wolf 2019 Pinot Gris (Pfalz). Grape- abv: 12% Price: $23 89 fruit, pear and pineapple notes gain power Wittmann 2019 Weissburgunder Trocken from nose to finish in this fresh, fruity white. Dry Pfeffingen 2018 Dry Scheurebe (Pfalz). 91 (Rheinhessen). Pinot Blanc can be a quiet, and medium-bodied in style, it’s a thirst-quenching, 91 Scheurebe is such a woefully underappreci- subtle grape but Wittmann coaxes an abundance of delicately saline sip with an easy yet elegant appeal. ated grape and this jubilantly fruity, floral white crisp, vibrant pear and grapefruit flavors accented Best now–2023. Loosen Bros. USA. Best Buy. —A.I. is such a head turner. Lychee, pink grapefruit and by toast and hazelnut here. Slim in profile and abv: 12.5% Price: $12 grape gummy candies burst from nose to finish here. backed by a zesty mineral foundation, it’s a fresh- Dry in style and vibrantly balanced, it’s a conver- footed, lime-inflected sip that should drink beauti- sation starter of a wine that should delight a wide fully through 2024. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. GEWÜRZTRAMINER audience. Best enjoyed young. The German Wine abv: 12.5% Price: $24 Collection. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. Villa Wolf 2019 Gewürztraminer (Pfalz). For abv: 12.5% Price: $23 Willems-Willems 2018 Saar Weisser Burgunder 90 full review see page 21. Best Buy. 91 Trocken (Mosel). Pretty white blossom and abv: 12% Price: $12 Dr. Heyden 2019 Old Vines Silvaner (Rhein- lime perfume distinguishes this lithe Mosel Pinot 90 hessen). Whiffs of violet petal and lychee Blanc from heftier, stonier expressions of the grape Fitz-Ritter 2019 Dürkheimer Abtsfronhof lend exotic perfume to this dry but very fruity Sil- from the Pfalz or Rheinhessen. It’s a delightfully 88 Spätlese Gewürztraminer (Pfalz). Heady vaner. It’s a juicy, mouthwatering white marked spry, feather-light sip that packs a punch of zesty plumes of jasmine blossom and musk perfume this by tropical melon and peach flavors and finishing lemon, green-apple and pear flavors. The finish is sprightly semisweet Gewürztraminer. Light-bodied elegantly on a rim of tea tannins. An unusual bang- long and minty fresh. Best now–2023. The German but concentrated in lychee and white peach flavors, for-your-buck introduction to an underappreciated Wine Collection. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. it’s a juicy, easy-drinking sip rimmed by a murmur yet multifaceted grape variety. Best enjoyed young. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 of tea tannins on the finish. At peak now–2024. Winesellers, Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $14 Villa Wolf 2019 Pinot Blanc (Pfalz). Pretty abv: 10% Price: $24 90 white blossom and peach notes perfume Fritz Windisch 2014 Mainzer St. Alban this bang-for-your-buck Pinot Blanc. It’s an unusu- Sun Garden 2018 Gewürztraminer (Pfalz). 86 Scheurebe Kabinett (Rheinhessen). Crisp ally exuberant, fruit-forward expression of a typi- 86 Notes of pink grapefruit and lemon candy green apple and honeydew are offset by an intensely cally shy grape variety that should be enjoyed young mark this light-bodied, delicately sweet white. earthen minerality. Feather-light yet ripe in fruit but its pert acidity and concentrated flavors should Moderate in concentration, it’s an easy-drinking, concentration, it’s an easy-drinking semi-dry sip hold well through 2023. Loosen Bros. USA. Best fruity sip that’s best enjoyed young. Scoperta with a lingering, savory undertone. Drink soon. Buy. —A.I. Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 11% Price: $11 abv: 9.5% Price: $13

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Leonard Kreusch 2019 Weinkellerei Kreusch to improve through 2030. The German Wine Col- Alexakis 2019 Assyrtiko (Crete). Citrus and 86 Spätlese (Rheinhessen). Grapefruit, pine- lection. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. 91 mineral aromas are followed by savory, saline apple and peach are juicy and forward in this alpha- abv: 13.5% Price: $40 smoke and tropical fruit flavors on the palate. The bet-soup blend of Faberrebe, Silvaner, Bacchus, wine ends with an intriguing wave of smoke. Dia- Kerner and Huxelrebe grapes. Medium-sweet and Schnaitmann 2017 Steinwiege Pinot Noir mond Importers Inc. —S.K. balanced by bright tangerine acidity, it’s an easy- 92 (Württemberg). Violet, fur and spicy notes abv: 13.5% Price: $17 drinking, straightforward sip that’s best enjoyed of plum and black cherry compote collide in this young. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. decadently perfumed Pinot Noir. While light in Mylonas 2019 Assyrtiko (Attica). This abv: 9.5% Price: $15 body, it’s a penetrating, intensely fruity red held 91 intriguing white offers aromas of tropical upright by zesty cranberry acidity and very fine, fruit, herbs and white flowers, and a full-bodied but feathery tannins. Ready now but should drink at springy array of lime and herbs. The wine has an ROSÉS peak through 2027 and hold longer still. The Ger- appealing creaminess but still maintains an elegant man Wine Collection. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. poise. The finish is lingering with a clean, salty spin. Ökonomierat Rebholz 2019 Spätburgunder abv: 12.5% Price: $35 Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. 91 Trocken Rosé (Pfalz). Dusty pink in hue, this abv: 13% Price: $17 cutting, mineral rosé offers brisk sour cherry and Dr. Heyden 2018 Oppenheimer Unfiltered raspberry flavors edged by shards of cut slate and 90 Pinot Noir (Rheinhessen). A hint of incense Zacharias 2019 Assyrtiko (Peloponnese). A earth. It’s a racy, especially light-bodied sip with a lends sex appeal to pristine blackberry and black 91 nose of citrus, powder and salt starts this bracing, juicy finish. The German Wine Collection. cherry flavors in this full-bodied but spry red. pale white from Greece. On the palate, it’s viscous Editors’ Choice. —A.I. Freshly concentrated and invigorating in fruit pro- but tart, with juicy citrus fruit and a mineral back- abv: 11% Price: $29 file, it’s a crisp, easy-drinking Pinot that’s especially bone. Elegant but surprising, with a tasty sea salt appealing in youth. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. finish. Stellar Importing Company, LLC.Best Buy. Schäfer 2019 Made With Organic Grapes Dry abv: 13% Price: $18 —S.K. 91 Rosé (Rheinhessen). Black cherry candy and abv: 14% Price: $15 rose petals perfume this svelte but deeply concen- Villa Wolf 2018 Pinot Noir (Pfalz). Burnt trated Pinot Noir rosé. Bone-dry yet plump, it’s a 90 caramel, violet candy and freshly dug beets Domaine Papagiannakos 2019 Assyrtiko juicy, thirst-quenching sip packed with black plum scent this boldly perfumed Pinot Noir. It’s an easy- 90 (Attica). This Assyrtiko starts with mouth- and berry flavors etched by a smoky minerality. A drinking, crisply concentrated red marked by pert watering lime, orange and tropical fruit aromas, fol- solid evergreen rosé that should drink beautifully red cherry and plum flavors edged by delicate char lowed by bright white fruit flavors and zippy acid- year-round. Winesellers, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. and smoke. Solidly made and priced quite reason- ity. The wine has texture and complexity—and great abv: 12% Price: $14 ably, it’s a super find that’s best enjoyed now–2024. aging potential. Winebow. —S.K. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 Von Buhl 2019 Bone Dry Rosé (Pfalz). This abv: 13.5% Price: $16 90 is a zippy, delightfully raspberry-scented Gavalas 2019 Dry Assyrtiko (Santorini). Pinot Noir rosé. Bone-dry yet deeply concentrated, 90 Juicy fruit and citrus aromas start this with ripe, juicy blackberry and cherry flavors, it’s GREECE elegant white. The wine is a combination of full- a firmly structured sip that can stand up to colder bodied tropical fruit and sea salt austerity. It fin- weather and sturdier fare like game or salmon. ASSYRTIKO ishes elegant and clean, with a spin of white pepper. Finishes long on delicate tea tannins and a kiss of Dionysos Imports Inc. —S.K. smoky spice. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. Gaia Wines 2018 Wild Ferment Assyrtiko abv: 13.5% Price: $34 abv: 12% Price: $21 94 (Santorini). The aromas are clean and cit- ric, with a spin of crushed herbs and sea salt. On Tsantali 2019 Klima Klima Organic Assyrtiko the palate, the wine is both complex and refreshing, 88 (Halkidiki). This organic Assyrtiko starts LEMBERGER with lemon-lime, saline and spice flavors dancing with pert and focused citrus and salt aromas, and on the tongue. The finish is a combination of match- on the palate offers a crisp and lively combination of Schnaitmann 2017 Steinwiege Dry Lem- stick smoke and citrus. Craft+Estate–Winebow. citrus, tropical fruit and flowers. The wine finishes 90 berger (Württemberg). Smoky notes of —S.K. clean and crisp. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. graphite and incense accent crisp blackberry and abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA plum in this light-footed, spice-inflected Lemberger. It’s a brisk, fresh, concentrated red backed by pert Greek Wine Cellars 2019 Flowers Assyrtiko Kir-Yianni 2018 Vin de Haute Altitude Assyr- red currant acidity and very fine, feathery tannins. 92 (Santorini). For full review see page 11. 87 tiko (Florina). An intriguing and herbaceous Ready now but should drink at peak through 2027. abv: 13% Price: $27 nose married with bright fruit and mineral flavors The German Wine Collection. —A.I. gives this wine balance and versatility. Easy-drink- abv: 12.5% Price: $37 Skouras 2019 Wild Ferment Assyrtiko (Pelo- ing and fresh, it could age for three to five more 92 ponnese). The nose on this wild-ferment years. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. white is elegant, with wet stone, smoke and crushed abv: 13.5% Price: $17 PINOT NOIR herb aromas. On the palate, it’s complex but focused, with a balance of lively fruit, minerality Vassaltis 2018 Assyrtiko (Santorini). This Meyer-Näkel 2018 Pinot Noir (Ahr). An and spice. Diamond Importers Inc. Editors’ Choice. 87 full-bodied, assertive Assyrtiko offers a nose 94 exhilarating mineral crush extends from —S.K. of citrus fruit, spice and sea salt, plus white fruit nose to palate, lending freshness to profoundly ripe abv: 13% Price: $18 flavors that are generous and friendly. Its crowd- flavors of black plum and currant. Full-bodied yet pleasing style makes it a good introduction to the spry and lifted, it’s a piercing, deeply concentrated Wine Art Estate 2019 Plano Assyrtiko variety. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. Pinot Noir edged by hints of earth, smoke and violet 92 (Drama). For full review see page 12. abv: 13.5% Price: $42 florals. The finish is long and ruffled by fine, furry abv: 13% Price: $25 tannins. Welcoming in youth but structured enough Wine Art Estate 2018 Idisma Drios Assyrtiko 87 (Drama). Lemon, spice and vanilla start this

112 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 white from mainland Greece. It offers full-bodied, lemon fruit. Its finish is minerally and clean. Dia- of strawberry and pink grapefruit in this likable richer flavors of vanilla and toasted nut, mingled mond Importers Inc. —S.K. rosé. Pert and pretty, this is a great patio wine for with tropical fruit. R&R Selections LLC. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $28 the summer. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 12.5% Price: $25

ROSÉS Tsantali 2019 Kanenas Mavroudi-Syrah Rosé MOSCHOFILERO 86 (Greece). The wine offers aromas of forest Domaine Papagiannakos 2019 Granatus berries, vanilla and spice, followed by straight- Skouras 2019 George Skouras Moschofilero 92 Rosé (Attica). Beautiful aromas of zesty cit- forward strawberry and spice flavors. Velvety and 93 (Arcadia). This Moschofilero starts with rus and red berries lead into a lively and elegant mix smooth, as well as easy-drinking. Perfect for the a rich, fragrant nose of jasmine and rose, but its of spice, mineral and fruit. The wine finishes with patio. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. flavors are poised and pert in style, with a spin of sea salt and citrus rind. Winebow. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA bone-dry acid framing its refined citrus and spice abv: 13% Price: $22 flavors. A beautiful example of the variety’s versa- tility and character. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. Wine Art Estate 2019 Pink Bang Rosé AGIORGITIKO abv: 12% Price: $18 92 (Drama). For full review see page 12. abv: 12.5% Price: $36 Greek Wine Cellars 2018 Flowers Agiorgitiko Skouras 2018 Salto Wild Yeast Moschofilero 92 (Nemea). For full review see page 19. Best 90 (Peloponnese). Lemon-lime aromas with a Gaia Wines 2019 14-18h Agiorgitiko Rosé Buy. slight hint of herbs and toast start this elegant and 90 (Peloponnese). Savory and fruity aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $13 intriguing wild yeast white. The wine offers a lovely are followed by mouthwatering, spicy strawberry balance of chalky minerality and fresh fruit, fin- and vanilla flavors. The wine has a an herbal touch Greek Wine Cellars 2018 Kouros Agiorgitiko ished by an earthy wave of savory herbs. Diamond that gives it weigh and complexity. The finish is long 90 (Nemea). For full review see page 20. Best Importers Inc. —S.K. and full of spice. Craft+Estate–Winebow. —S.K. Buy. abv: 11.5% Price: $21 abv: 12% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $13

Zacharias 2019 Moschofilero (Pelopon- Zacharias 2019 St. George Rosé (Pelopon- Skouras 2017 Saint George Agiorgitiko 90 nese). Delicate aromas of rose petal, peach 90 nese). Poised, flinty, fresh and spicy, this 89 (Nemea). This volcanic-soil pour starts and citrus start this refined rosé. The wine offers wine starts with strawberry, raspberry and rhubarb with pronounced, fresh, black cherry and plum a delicious blend of crisp acidity and stone fruit aromas, followed by pert cherry flavors and a spicy aromas. The wine has smooth tannins, flavors of flavors, with a soft spin of spice on finish. Stellar finish. This is an interesting and successful mar- smoke, cherry and spice, and a zippy, mineral-heavy Importing Company, LLC. Best Buy. —S.K. riage of juicy but dry complexity. Stellar Importing finish. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $15 Company, LLC. Best Buy. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $15 Nikolaou 2018 Organic Vineyards Moschofi- Gaia Wines 2018 Agiorgitiko (Nemea). Aro- 88 lero (Peloponnese). The wine starts with an Palivou 2019 Vissino Rosé (Peloponnese). 88 mas of red berry, olive and spice lead into aromatic combination of herbal spice and lemon- 89 Full-bodied with a tart and tangy back pal- bright cherry, raspberry and plum flavors. The orange zing, followed by savory, mouthwatering ate, this wine offers raspberry, juicy watermelon wine is generous and fun, with a clean, fresh finish. minerals and peach fruit. Its finish is fruity and and spice flavors. Pair this pour with cheeses and Craft+Estate–Winebow. —S.K. fresh. Vitis Vinifera Inc. —S.K. dried meats. R&R Selections LLC. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $23 abv: 12% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Zacharias 2018 Agiorgitiko (Nemea). Aro- Palivou 2019 La Vie en Rose Moschofilero Dry 87 mas of anise, cherry, dried herbs and savory WHITE BLENDS 88 Rosé (Peloponnese). This wine offers fleshy meats lead into flavors of sweet tobacco, pepper, white fruit, spice and sea salt on the nose. The red cherry and vanilla in this lively red. The wine Tsantali 2019 Abaton Athiri-Assyrtiko wine’s character is earthy, with herbs and a touch has some power, so pair it with a hearty lamb or 90 (Mount Athos). This classic white blend of smokiness mingling with fresh-fruit flavors. It’s beef dish to bring out the best of its flavors. Stellar offers smoke, spice, flint and herbs on the nose, with unique and food-driven overall. R&R Selections Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. a touch of citrus lift. On the palate, it’s herbaceous LLC. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $15 but pert, with sea salt, pepper, spice and lemon fla- abv: 12.5% Price: $19 vors. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 La Tour Melas 2019 Idylle d’Achinos Rosé 87 (Greece). Pretty strawberry and mineral aro- Nasiakos 2019 White (Mantinia). Pretty flo- mas lead into zesty flavors of citrus peel, herbs and Tsantali 2017 Xinomavro (Naoussa). Straw- 87 ral and citrus aromas give this white blend fresh red fruits. Assertive and approachable, with a 93 berry, mineral and warming spice on the immediate appeal. On the palate, it’s fruity with a clean, mineral finish. Dionysos Imports Inc. —S.K. nose are followed by cherry jam fruit and grippy nice zap of acidity throughout. The wine is easy to abv: 12.5% Price: $25 tannins in this delicious, poised red. The wine fin- drink and offers a delicate balance of minerals and ishes long and spicy with an excellent acidity-fruit fleshier flavor. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. Mylonas 2019 Rosé (Attica). Luscious aro- balance. Save this one for the cellar for optimum —S.K. 87 mas of tropical fruits, herbs and red ber- enjoyment. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 12% Price: $18 ries start this elegant rosé. Its flavors are light and abv: 12.5% Price: $NA bright, with a clean line of acidity throughout. Dia- Santo Wines 2018 ASPA Volcanic Terroir mond Importers Inc. —S.K. Kir-Yianni 2016 Diaporos Single Vineyard 87 White (Santorini). This white blend offers abv: 13% Price: $17 92 Xinomavro (Imathia). Pretty aromas of vio- an intriguing nose of citrus spice, matchstick and let and warming spice mingle with tomato, cherry flowers, followed by vanilla spice, smoke, herbs and Skouras 2019 Peplo Rosé (Peloponnese). and earthy olive. The wine is elegant and integrated 87 Sweet berry aromas are followed by flavors with vanilla, red cherry, tobacco and cinnamon fla-

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BUYINGGUIDE vors. Gentle tannins and approachable poise make Aromas of ripe pineapple, lemon and kerosene lead it an excellent introduction to agreeable Greek reds. to the rounded, juicy palate. The fruit gets a bit Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. muddled, not showing much definition or purity, abv: 14% Price: $58 but there’s decent lift from bright acidity. Maiden + Liberty. —A.P. Kir-Yianni 2017 Cuveé Villages Xinomavro abv: 12.8% Price: $20 89 (Naoussa). Aromas of clove, cinnamon and cola are followed by flavors of earth, red berries and smoke on this elegant red. The wine offers bright- CABERNET SAUVIGNON ness as well as depth, with leather, herbs and black pepper balancing the fruit. Diamond Importers Inc. Penfolds 2018 Bin 149 Cabernet Sauvignon —S.K. 95 (Global). For full review see page 5. abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 14.7% Price: $149

Kir-Yianni 2016 Ramnista Single Vineyard Penfolds 2018 Quantum Bin 98 Cabernet 88 Xinomavro (Naoussa). Aromas of forest 95 Sauvignon (Global). For full review see page berries, cedar, pepper and tomato are followed by 5. sweet cedar and red fruit flavors. The wine offers abv: 14.7% Price: $700 grippy tannins and a smoky, tobacco finish. Dia- mond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

Kir-Yianni 2016 Kali Riza Vieilles Vignes Xino- 87 mavro (Amyndeon). Fig, olive and red cherry aromas give this wine an enticing start. On the pal- ate, tomato paste, olive and black cherry flavors are luscious but bright. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

OTHER RED WINES

Tsantali 2017 Klima Klima Organic Caber- 89 net Sauvignon (Halkidiki). This wine starts with aromas of plum, dried cherry and spice. It offers rich flavors of blackberry, warming spice and a touch of mineral zing. Its full-bodied style calls for a bigger dish. Think grilled beef or game. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $NA

Zacharias 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon 88 (Greece). This focused but fruity Cabernet starts with aromas of cherry and raspberry, fol- lowed by fresh, bright red fruit flavors. Tobacco, vanilla and cedar give it some gravitas. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Amalagos 2018 Plóes Cabernet Sauvignon- 87 Merlot (Drama). Aromas of strawberry, dark chocolate and cinnamon start this easy-drinking Cabernet-Merlot blend. Plush tannins and flavors of blueberry, cherry, smoke, soft spice and plum give it widespread appeal. Nestor Imports. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $14 GLOBAL WHITE WINE

Maiden + Liberty 2017 French-American 84 Blend No. 2. Julia’s Sauvignon Blend (Global). This global blend is made from 83% Sau- vignon Blanc sourced from New York’s North Fork and 17% Vermentino from the Languedoc in France.

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nutmeg and cayenne spice, coupled with a meaty, umami note. Adding water enhances the spice and brings forward toasted grain, oatmeal cookie and malted milk notes, finishing drying and astringent. This is blended Irish whiskey pot-distilled in Ire- SPIRITS land, proofed and bottled in Indiana. Best Buy. The Irish whiskey boom abv: 40% Price: $30

Teeling Blackpitts Peated Single Malt Irish ust a few years ago, Irish whiskey was seen In just a decade, the industry surged from a 93 Whiskey (Ireland; Bacardi, Coral Gables, FL). as relatively homogenous. It was billed as mere four distilleries in 2010 to 38 operational This is a peated single-malt Irish whisky, matured fruity, grassy, fresh as a bouquet of wild- facilities by November 2020, according to a in Bourbon and Sauternes casks. Mild peat and flowers and usually more affordable than December report by the trade group Drinks Ire- tropical fruit intertwine on nose and palate, giving counterpartsJ from Scotland. land/Irish Whiskey Association. Each of these an impression of pineapple playing hide-and-seek through the smoke. Torched rosemary, smoked sage, Fast-forward to today, and the category is distilleries is seeking to distinguish itself and lemon verbena and white pepper wind into the fin- much more diverse. Prices have inched higher, the spirits it produces. ish. with premium bottles more prevalent, and fla- According to the report, the U.S. is by far the abv: 46% Price: $75 vor profiles have broadened. largest market for Irish whis- Some are rich and spiced or key, accounting for 42% of all Silkie The Legendary Dark Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA). Peat extravagantly Sherried to the Sales of Irish sales in 2019, up from 28% in 92 smoke leads on nose and palate for this robust point of displaying fruitcake fla- whiskey in the U.S. 2010. This increase was driven blended whiskey. Look for baked apple mixed with vors. Others offer robust, smoky could surpass those by use in cocktails and inter- plenty of peat and a fleeting perception of vanilla sweetness, finishing with hints of lemon peel and ­characteristics that would of Scotch over the est in high-end, premium bot- ­satisfy those who love peated tlings. Furthermore, sales of black pepper. Adding water mellows the smoke a bit, brings more vanilla forward. Scotch. And like brethren in next decade. Irish whiskey in the U.S. could abv: 46% Price: $42 Scotland and America, Irish surpass those of Scotch over whiskeys sport an ever-­widening the next decade, the report pre- Silkie The Legendary Irish Whiskey (Ireland; variety of cask finishes. Bourbon and Sherry dicts. If that indeed comes to pass, it would be 92 Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA). This blended casks are common, but unusual options like the first time that has happened since before Irish offers light, fresh aromas of fresh-cut red apple, vanilla and coconut. The palate opens with stout, Calvados and Marsala can also be found. the 1920s. vanilla sweetness and cinnamon spice, winding into All this change makes sense against the More—and more diverse—Irish whiskey in a fruity midpalate and finishing with a faint hint of backdrop of growth among Ireland’s distilling the glasses of American consumers? Now that’s smoke. Adding water opens up more peaty flavor. industry, which was driven in part by a world- something to celebrate. Sip or mix. wide whiskey boom and the success of legacy Sláinte! abv: 46% Price: $40 brand Jameson. —Kara Newman Slane Triple Casked Irish Whiskey (Ireland; 92 Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). For full review see page 22. Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $30

Bushmills The Rare Casks 28 Years Limited The Whistler Oloroso Sherry Cask Finish Irish Teeling Small Batch Irish Whiskey (Ireland; 98 Release No. 01 Cognac Cask Irish Whiskey 94 Whiskey (Ireland; Prestige Beverage, Princ- 92 Bacardi, Coral Gables, FL). This Irish whiskey (Ireland; Proximo Spirits, Jersey City, NJ). For full eton, MN). The sweet, enticing aroma bursts with finished in rum casks has a bold baked-apple char- review see page 22. dried fruit. Those notes are echoed on the robust acter backed up with vanilla and lots of oak. Adding abv: 46.7% Price: $500 palate: dried apricot, booze-soaked golden raisins water unleashes grapefruit peel, a hoppy hint and and vanilla lead into a gentle nutty, gingery finish. clove sizzle. Drumshanbo Single Pot Still Irish Whis- Best Buy. abv: 46% Price: $40 95 key (Ireland; Palm Bay International, Port abv: 43% Price: $35 Washington, NY). Richly spiced aromas lead into a The Whistler Imperial Stout Cask Finish Irish smooth, luxurious palate that sinks into flavors of Kilbeggan Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey (Ire- 91 Whiskey (Ireland; Prestige Beverage, Princ- vanilla, dried apricot and dried date. Adding water 93 land; Beam Suntory, Chicago, IL). Fresh cut eton, MN). This complex whiskey smells lush and unlocks more vanilla and sweet spices like clove, apple and a hint of smoke lead the nose. The robust, sweet, though the palate is less so, reading as hoppy cinnamon and nutmeg. This is a big, mouthfilling flavorful palate offers a surprising plummy note, and darkly spiced with clove and allspice. Adding whiskey to sip with a cube of ice or consider as a finishing long and drying with cayenne and clove water frames it with cocoa, citrus and espresso dessert pairing. heat. Altogether, the pleasing effect is like spice cake bitterness. What’s in the glass is a mix of malt abv: 43% Price: $63 doused in whiskey. and grain Irish whiskeys, finished in an ex-oloroso abv: 43% Price: $45 Sherry barrel that was filled with Boyne Brewhouse The Busker Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Disaronno Imperial Stout, then emptied to finish the whiskey. 94 International, Somerset, NJ). For full review McCabe’s Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Hard Truth abv: 43% Price: $40 see page 22. Best Buy. 93 Distilling, Nashville, IN). Look for a pale abv: 40% Price: $25 gold hue and toasty aroma. The palate shows dusty

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The Whistler Calvados Cask Finish Irish tropical fruit note and a fleeting saline note that Bearface One Eleven Series Canadian Whisky 90 Whiskey (Ireland; Prestige Beverage, Prince- creates what a salted pretzel effect. 87 (Canada; Bearface Spirits, Toronto, ON). ton, MN). You don’t see many spirits finished in Cal- abv: 42% Price: $90 This is unique limited-edition spirit blends ten vados, a French apple brandy. This one opens with parts Canadian whisky with one part espadin agave a vanilla aroma and cinnamon spice up front that Whiskeynaut Hop Flavored Whiskey (USA; spirit, or mezcal without the designation. Look for a reads like Red Hots candies and cinnamon gum. The 92 Shelta Cavern Spirits, Huntsville, AL). From bright, golden hue and coconut aroma. The palate is midpalate shows sarsaparilla, leading into cayenne Straight to Ale, which has both a brewery and dis- slightly sweet at first, showing honey and coconut, heat on the exhale. A splash of water and little time tillery arm, this whiskey begins with brewer’s malt, rounding into hints of smoke and pecan. Sweet and to open up yields a faint apple hint and amps up the specifically the same used to make Straight to Ale’s smoky mingle into a mouthwatering salted honey cinnamon spice, creating an end result that suggests Monkeynaut IPA, then distilled, flavored with hops finish. candied apple, with a drying finish. Limited release. and aged in Hungarian and American oak. The end abv: 42.5% Price: $50 abv: 43% Price: $40 result is a deep nut-brown hue and aromas of sarsa- parilla and oak. The palate is relatively herbaceous Puni Alba Whisky (Italy; High Road Spirits, The Whistler Double Oaked Distiller’s Select and hoppy at first, then slides into a satisfyingly 87 Chicago, IL). Oak and smoke mark this Ital- 90 Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Prestige Beverage, fudgy, nutty finish. ian whiskey aged for three years, including in casks Princeton, MN). This robust Irish whiskey resounds abv: 40% Price: $40 that previously held Marsala, Italy’s , with vanilla on nose and palate, plus mocha and and Islay Scotch. Peat smoke dominates the nose a hint of cookie dough. Adding water draws out Devil’s Share American Whiskey (USA; Cut- and palate, underpinned by a very subtle honeyed the finish a bit, layering roasted coffee and spice. 91 water Spirits, San Diego, CA). The producer note underneath. What’s in the bottle is a mix of malt and grain whis- describes this as a “California Small Batch Ameri- abv: 43% Price: $115 keys aged in Bourbon casks, then finished in oloroso can Whiskey.” It begins with brewer’s malt, then, Sherry casks. Sip or mix. Best Buy. aged in new, heavily-charred oak barrels, similar abv: 40% Price: $30 to how Bourbon is made. The end result is oak and hazelnut on nose and palate. This complex sipper Grace O’Malley Blended Irish Whiskey (Ire- also shows hints of juicy red fruit, espresso bitter- 89 land; MHW Ltd., Manhasset, NY). Look for ness and plenty of bouncy spice: cinnamon, anise a vanilla aroma, plus a mild resin note; both carry and cayenne heat. over to the palate. Vanilla and ginger lead into a long, abv: 46% Price: $100 spiced finish laced with lemon peel. This is billed as the first Irish whiskey named for a woman, specifically Mythology Syrah Finished Whiskey (USA; a legendary 16th century Irish pirate queen. Best Buy. 90 Mythology Distillery, Denver, CO). What’s abv: 40% Price: $37 in the bottle is a blend of Bourbon and rye whis- keys finished for seven months in Syrah Barrels from Oregon winery Dominio IV. The end result is OTHER WHISKEY remarkably fruity, melding zingy orange peel with mellow notes of vanilla, cocoa and oak. The astrin- Wolves Wally’s Blend Whiskey (USA; Wolves, gent, mouthwatering finish offers juicy citrus and 94 Ukiah, CA). The third limited-release offer- fiery cinnamon. ing from Wolves is a blend of “hop-flavored whis- abv: 47% Price: $85 key,” rye and malt whiskeys. It has an amber hue and rich caramel aroma, while the distinctly hoppy Puni Vina Marsala Edition Whiskey (Italy; palate is likely to appeal to beer-lovers. Adding 90 High Road Spirits, Chicago, IL). This Italian water releases dried fig and grapefruit, with hints whiskey aged for five years, including in casks that of clove, caramel and spice that linger into the fin- previously held Marsala, Italy’s fortified wine. The ish. end result is an amber hue and raisin aroma, and a abv: 52% Price: $160 sip that fleetingly channels another Italian staple: Luxardo cherries. Especially with a splash of water, Glenmorangie A Tale of Cake Scotch Whiskey dried cherry, prunes in syrup and sticky marmalade 93 (Scotland, Moët Hennessy USA, New York, slide into long cocoa and dried fig finish. Mix into NY). While this limited-edition single-malt Scotch Manhattans. finished in wine casks doesn’t exactly taste abv: 43% Price: $115 like cake, it surely would make a fine dessert accom- paniment. Hints of coconut, pineapple and honey Ransom The Emerald 1865 American Whis- frame the nose and palate, finishing with accents of 90 key (USA; T. Henry Ransom, Sheridan, OR). oak, smoke and sticky orange marmalade. This is an Irish-inspired American whiskey, made abv: 46% Price: $99 from a 150-year-old mash bill sourced by cocktail historian David Wondrich and re-created by Ran- Cascade Moon Edition No. 1 Whisky (USA; som founder Tad Seestedt. The base is barley, rye 92 George Dickel & Co., Tullahoma, TN). First in and oats, which translates into a relatively lean, a new series of whiskeys from Dickel’s general man- herbaceous whiskey. Look for a bright topaz hue and ager/distiller Nicole Austin, this was inspired by the grassy, oaky aromas. The palate echoes that oaky tasting notes found in a gose-style beer. Look for a note, layering hints of burnt orange peel, sarsapa- burnished gold hue and hoppy aroma. The palate is rilla and chamomile. The finish is long and drying, hops-forward as well, showing hints of grapefruit finishing with a cinnamon bark and vanilla exhale. peel and toasted grain. Adding water coaxes out a abv: 43.8% Price: $78

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Great Lakes Brewing Edmund Fitzgerald Por- 97 ter (American Porter; Great Lakes Brewing, OH). The gold standard of American-brewed por- ters, the beauty of this beer is its simplicity. Named for the ship that met a tragic ending, this lovely BEER ale is a benchmark for the style and is never out of Prêt-a-porter fashion. It is roast forward in profile, with pleasing coffee and chocolate undertones and a slight chalky ash finish. alking past beer shelves or staring at Quite a few use the low-roast malt flavor abv: 6% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack tap handles across a bar, today’s mod- of the category as a base for coffee additions. ern beer consumer is likely to see From blending with cold brew, steeping grounds Highland Brewing Oatmeal Porter (American stouts outnumbering porters. That’s in fermenting beer or aging on coffee beans, the 97 Porter; Highland Brewing, NC). This smooth- tooW bad, because while both are dark colored marriage between java and porter is strong. As bodied oatmeal porter offers a full mouthfeel, with roasted notes and a touch of cereal sweetness. ales, porters generally offer a smoother tasting a result, these beers are often great for brunches Slightly nutty and less intense on coffee flavor than experience, letting the roasted malts shine a lit- and late-morning tailgating. others in the style, this is an unfussy ale that blends tle brighter. There is still no easy answer on the por- into the background at gatherings but remains Roasty aromas and flavors should be at the ter versus stout question, but one that is easy reliable pint after pint. Paired with sharp Ched- forefront of the style, including to rely on comes from histo- dar, Shepherd’s pie or raspberry sorbet, it’s just a delight to drink. others in the family like robust rian Ron Pattinson: “All stouts abv: 5.9% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack porter, and Baltic porter. Their The style is perfect are types of porter. But not all visual appeal is quite apparent. for drinkers who ­porters are stouts. Only the­ Deschutes Black Butte³ (Barrel-aged Porter; They can range from medium claim they don’t like stronger ones,” he wrote in a 96 Deschutes Brewing Co., OR). This luscious brown in color, with garnet 2015 feature in All About Beer porter is kicking with boozy attributes of wood dark beer. and vanilla, with a roast that is reminiscent of dark highlights, to darker brown with magazine. chocolate fudge. Brewed with cocoa powder, the tan- or mocha-colored heads He debunked some popular inception-like brewing wizardry means that this that usually last for a long time when properly myths and misconceptions about the styles, like was aged inside of Black Butte whiskey casks before poured into a glass. the notion that the only difference is roasted bottling. There is depth and warmth in each sip, A style rooted in history, the particulars of barley, which some say only appears in stout. much like what you would find in a fine whisky. abv: 14.1% Price: $15/500 ml what a porter should be are still under debate Today, while there may be fewer porters to this day. Brewers, especially Americans, color than stouts on the market, the style is perfect Jack’s Abby Lager Ness Monster Imperial Bal- outside of the lines when it comes to creating for drinkers who claim they don’t like dark beer. 96 tic Porter (Baltic Porter; Jack’s Abby, MA). recipes. Some release brown ales in the por- With a mellow, pleasing construction, porters This big, boozy beer brings in flavors of chocolate, ter category and vice versa, feeling that the two are a great entry into enjoying dark ales. dark cherry and fudge, and highlights the barrels used to age recipe. An occasional release from the share similar qualities. Cheers! —John Holl brewery, it is big on Bourbon, vanilla, and warm- ing characters as the beer opens up. It’s lusciously full-bodied, with just a touch of citrus hop essence on the back end. abv: 14% Price: $12/500 ml Alaskan Brewing 2020 Smoked Porter bitterness. A brewery only release, it offers a smooth 98 (Smoked Porter; Alaskan Brewing, AK). pour with a velvety mouthfeel and displays threads Left Hand Death Before Disco Porter (Ameri- Rauchbier, or smoked beer, when done right can of roasted cacao, toasted nuts and warmed fruit. It’s 96 can Porter; Left Hand Brewing, CO). This evoke any slew of memories: camping trips, nights a first-class ale that makes such a strong impression beer is smooth and satisfying, with soft roast notes around a backyard firepit, stops at roadside barbe- and will stay on your mind for days afterwards. It that give it a luxurious feel. It offers whiffs of choc- cue joints or a few drops of liquid smoke. This is an is like drinking a breakfast beer from the heavens. olate, toffee and red berries that will intrigue pint American classic and has been for decades. It offers Pour into your best glassware to enhance the expe- after pint. The bitterness has rounded edges making a medium amount of smoke where the porter’s roast rience—this beer deserves nothing less. it easy drinking and pleasurable for the long haul. A notes are not lost. Whiffs of cherry, apple wood and abv: 5.4% Price: $13/16 oz 4 pack beer like this never goes out of style. wet campfire all come together. A Band-Aid whiff abv: 6% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack is there, too. With a pleasing, oily character on the Ecliptic Capella Porter (American Porter; finish, this smoked porter continues to be the plati- 97 Ecliptic Brewing, OR). This ale offers a Mikkeller Chic…Chic…Chic-ary (American num standard for American Rauchbier. Pair with smooth body with semi-prickly carbonation and 95 Porter; Mikkeller, CA). Inky brown in color, smoked salmon, and make sure everyone has their flavors that focus on roasted malts, with whiffs with a strong mocha head when poured, this has own bottle. of an herbal character mixed with dark chocolate. a boozy character, some vanilla, wood, and shows abv: 6.5% Price: $8/22 oz This is a porter that evolves as it warms, revealing a signs of Sherry and age, in a graceful way. Brewed roasted depth to the ingredients that never teeters with chicory root, if offers whiffs of old tobacco and Fremont Morpheus Coffee Porter (Coffee into bitter, but manages to keep a liveliness going leather. It has a warming quality and heavy body 98 Porter; Fremont Brewing, WA). This elegant until the end. that feels welcoming with each sip. coffee porter offers aromas of perfectly roasted abv: 5.2% Price: $12/16 oz 4 pack abv: 6.6% Price: $12/16 oz 4 pack beans that showcase all of the java with none of the

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Bell’s Porter (American Porter; Bell’s Brew- and is all-around pleasing and enjoyable. It’s an late and bits of dark caramel that come through. 94 ery, MI). This is a strong porter with all of appropriate pub ale for the at-home experience. An American breakfast of bacon, eggs and pancakes the hallmarks of the style that come together in a abv: 7.3% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack with maple syrup would be a great pairing. reliable, familiar, and easygoing way. The no frills abv: 5.7% Price: $13/16 oz 4 pack nature of the roasted malts, slight hop bitterness Sketchbook Ripe Now (American Porter; and fruity yeast brings this beer together. Pint after 93 Sketchbook Brewing, IL). This porter is Lost Worlds Trek Porter (Porter, Lost Worlds pint it won’t dull your tastebuds or disappoint the a delightful drink any time of the day, offering a 91 Brewing, NC). Sometimes you just want a palate. The smooth mouthfeel and medium-bodied jaunty, sweet combination of coffee and tart fruit. beer that is reliable on a Tuesday night with tacos, nature make it the perfect companion to a cheddar Brewed with cranberries, this could be best enjoyed or Sunday at the tailgate, or when the mood strikes cheeseburger. in autumn paired alongside roasts and holiday for something comfortable, familiar and roast-for- abv: 5.6% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack meals of all kinds. ward. This beer is that beer thanks to a medium abv: 6.6% Price: $11/16 oz 4 pack body, with happily well-balanced roasted malt bill Blackberry Farm Leather Britches Porter that brings both coffee and bitter chocolate but nei- 94 (American Porter; Blackberry Farm Brewery, Alibi Porter (American Porter; Alibi Ale Works, ther ever seeking to take center stage. TN). This offers all of the roast characteristics one 92 CA). This is a fine pub ale for the at-home abv: 6.5% Price: $NA would expect from a porter but with a sweet cherry- experience. This offers a medium roast and a light- syrup note spun throughout. Hints of strawberry bodied palate. A bit of sugary chocolate chimes in Coppertail Night Swim Porter (American candy, vanilla and caramel chime in. It is a sweet on the midpalate, leading to an ashy, nutty finish. 90 Porter; Coppertail Brewing Co., FL). This is treat of a porter from a brewery that is clearly hav- abv: 6% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack an easy drinking, light-bodied porter, with notes of ing fun with the style. coffee roast, semisweet chocolate and flint. Brewed abv: 6.4% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack Bent Water Jolene American Porter (Ameri- with locally roasted chocolate, this finishes dry, 92 can Porter; Bent Water Brewing Co., MA). with a coffee ground flavor and a touch of sweet- Exhibit A Briefcase Porter (American Porter; Starting off with a soft mineral water flavor, this ness. 94 Exhibit A Brewing, MA). This is a minerally, beer evolves to show a pleasing coffee roast tone abv: 6.2% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack light-bodied ale that starts off with low roast in the alongside a hint of bitter chocolate for balance. aroma but builds in flavor as the beer is consumed. A roasty flavor lends this pour to be paired with Four Peaks Double Pumpkin Porter (Ameri- It offers tones of roasted coffee, with whiffs of wal- grilled meats or vegetables with a bit of char on 90 can Porter; Four Peaks Brewing, AZ). For nut and almond. It’s a satisfying beer that lands just them. The mild sweetness that is ever-present those who like a cup of coffee with their slice of right after an autumn hike. works in its favor. pumpkin pie, this beer is for you. A strong coffee abv: 5.4% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack abv: 5.4% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack roast is bumped up by claps of cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice, rounded out with a slightly spicy gin- Ferment Brewing Company Woodsman Por- Frog Alley Captain Ellis Porter (American ger kick. The spices help mask the alcohol content. 94 ter (American Porter; Ferment Brewing Co., 92 Porter; Frog Alley Brewing, NY). This light- The actual gourd is hard to detect, but that is not OR). On its own, the base beer is excellent, with a bodied porter is slightly woody, with hints of maple, always necessarily the point with a pumpkin beer, soft roast that is more coffee heavy than chocolate. coffee roast and dark chocolate. The roast builds as especially those using a robust style base. Small bits of citrus and herbal hops chime in. It is the glass empties, hitting all of the hallmarks of this abv: 8.5% Price: $14/12 oz 6 pack the addition of fir tips that brings this beer to the style. It’s enjoyable to drink and ready to stand up next level. A woodsy earthiness wraps around the to whatever comes fresh off the grill no matter the Great North RVP Robust Vanilla Porter whole beer with a light pine touch. It’s a calming time of year. 90 (American Porter; Great North Aleworks, pour, one that upon the first sip relaxes the brain abv: 6.4% Price: $10/16 oz 4 pack NH). This offers a blast of peppermint on the nose and seeks to make time move a little more slowly in that is boosted by sweet milk chocolate on the an appreciative manner. Dark brown in color, with Reuben’s Brews Robust Porter (American first sip. As you drink it, a little bit of spicy vanilla garnet highlights and a thick mocha head, this is a 92 Porter, Reuben’s Brews, WA). This is an extract arrives and grows. The vanilla adds to a porter best consumed as fresh to bottling as pos- assertive roasted ale that doesn’t weigh down the medium-body perception and brings a comforting, sible for the brightest flavors. palate and shows off a lot of nuance as the glass warming sensation. abv: 5.6% Price: $5/500 ml empties. Paired with a roast, or as a quick pint at abv: 6.5% Price: $10/16 oz 4 pack the train station bar on a cold, rainy night, this por- Greater Good Good Nitro Moon (American ter will deliver just the right amount of bitterness Greater Good Brewing Good Night Moon 94 Porter; Greater Good Brewing Co., MA). This and sweetness each and every time. 90 Imperial Milk Porter (Milk Porter; Greater milk porter receives the nitro treatment before abv: 5.9% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack Good Brewing, MA). This offers all the hallmarks of a canning. The result is a smooth, boozy, black lico- boozy milk chocolate, with a smooth coffee-flavored rice-inspired ale, with a prick of clove spice. It all Bonn Place In Rude Health Porter (American kick at the finish. Like its name suggests, this beer, morphs into flavors of vanilla cream soda and a 91 Porter; Bonn Place Brewing, PA). It’s a cold, with its high alcohol will put you out for the night hint of cherry cordial. There is depth and nuance to rainy day and you’ve finally made it home from after one, but sweet dreams are sure to follow. It’s this on the nose and initial sip that quickly yields work. You want warm dry socks, and a night of bing- a strong porter for those with a semisweet tooth. to a pleasing roast bitterness. This beer feels like it ing a show on TV. You need a beer that is not going abv: 11% Price: $15/16 oz 4 pack needs a special occasion, but it’s good on any cold to get in the way but offer a moderate alcohol, soft night that calls for excitement. chocolate and roasted coffee notes and a low-to- Alaskan Brewing Baltic Porter (Baltic Porter; abv: 11% Price: $15/16 oz 4 pack medium body that won’t weight you down. This is 89 Alaskan Brewing Co., AK). With a thick head that porter. Have it on hand for when the conditions of foam and a full body, this lager has strong roasted New Realm Pilotlight Coffee Porter (Coffee are favorable. notes that verge on fudgy and vinous. Brewed with 93 Porter; New Realm Brewing, GA). Whiffs of abv: 5.8% Price: $8/32 oz cherries, vanilla beans, brown sugar and aged on minerality and red berry land with a strong roast oak chips, there is a lot to unpack in this one, but character in this medium-bodied ale. An ashy roast Forgotten Boardwalk Morro Castle Smoked offers happy hunting. character builds with each sip, increasing the fla- 91 Porter (Smoked Porter; Forgotten Boardwalk abv: 9.8% Price: $8/22 oz bottle vors of coffee, chocolate and wood. This is a limited Brewing, NJ). This smoked porter is faintly herbal, brewery release, made with locally roasted coffee, with flavors of red berry, coffee, semisweet choco-

118 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021 Deschutes Black Butte Porter (American sweetness. This would benefit from an assertive with a sweet cream and coffee finish. The body is a 89 Porter; Deschutes Brewing Co., OR). This is a food companion like mustard seed cheddar. Sales of little thin and watery, lacking in depth. well-made porter, with whisps of caramel threaded this beer benefit local charities. abv: 6.7% Price: $13/16 oz 4 pack around coffee, dark chocolate and some hop bite abv: 6.5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack on the finish. It’s a familiar beer that won’t let you Oskar Blues Death by Coconut (American down and would complement everything from a Allagash Haunted House Hoppy Dark Ale 86 Porter; Oskar Blues Brewing, CO). There’s raspberry torte to grilled swordfish. 88 (Cascadian Dark Ale; Allagash Brewing, ME). no mistaking the coconut in this ale, which comes abv: 5.5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack The brewery calls this a “hoppy dark ale” and the more off as tanning oil than actual fruit. It is the hops are there, but not bright. It is slightly earthy, dominant flavor that leave a slickness on the Deschutes Black Butte XXXII Imperial Porter with a soft roast, some sweetness and whiffs of soft tongue. A fudgy chocolate character is in the mix 89 (American Imperial Porter; Deschutes Brew- leather and tobacco. The hops arrive on the finish but frequently gets lost. This was brewed with liq- ing, OR). Initial sips reveal a lot to unpack. This is with a pleasing, resinous bitterness. uid chocolate from Cholaca. an imperial porter aged in rum barrels, with addi- abv: 6.6% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack abv: 6.5% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack tions of orange peel, coffee, vanilla and nutmeg. It’s a limited release from the brewery that, when fresh, Hoppin’ Frog Infusion A Tower Tuesday Ivanhoe Park Tupac Shaporter (American is full of spice and booze notes. A few years of rest in 88 Series Coffee Porter (Coffee Porter; Hoppin’ 85 Porter; Ivanhoe Park Brewing, FL). This the cellar will likely reveal some nuance and let the Frog Brewing, OH). This one is for the sugary choco- offers a floral nose, verging on soapy, with spring dominant flavors mature. late lovers. The beer is completely lost in this, as orchard tones on the back end. Any roast or tradi- abv: 13.4% Price: $20/12 oz 4 pack it’s like drinking cocoa syrup right from the plas- tional hallmarks are pushed aside by the potpourri tic bottle. Medium in carbonation and quite sweet, aromas. Foothills People’s Porter (American Porter; what it lacks in nuance it makes up for with blunt abv: 7.3% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack 89 Foothills Brewing Co, NC). This is a mineral- chocolate hits. A thick, candy peanut butter flavor and roast-forward porter, with smacks of hop bit- appears to make this a true dessert beer. Switchback Dooley’s Belated Porter (Ameri- terness throughout. It’s a stalwart of the style and abv: 6.2% Price: $16/12 oz 4 pack 85 can Porter; Switchback Brewing, VT). This remains a good choice in your glass today as it has is a porter that can help drinkers who claim they been for years. Light on roast coffee and dark choco- Night Shift Awake Porter (American Porter; don’t like dark ales. Light in weight and low on roast late flavors, there is a vinous quality on the backend 88 Night Shift Brewery, MA). Notes of instant flavors, this has the color and clarity desired in the and a lively combination of green hops. coffee crystals and husky burnt malt are the domi- style but doesn’t overwhelm the palate. abv: 5.8% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack nant flavors of this dark ale. Made with house- abv: 5.7% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack roasted coffee, it changes seasonally and would be Hoppin’ Frog 2020 Plum Tuckered-Out Dou- perfectly at home with a diner breakfast heavy on Anchor Porter (American Porter, Anchor 89 ble Double Porter (American Porter; Hoppin’ the slightly burnt bacon. 84 Brewing Co., CA). This beers comes off little Frog Brewing, OH). This is a porter that will beat abv: 6% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack oxidized and thin, and with a hop bitterness mixed you up, take all your money and then call five years with strong roast on the finish. A staple on shelves later like nothing ever happened and ask if you want Highland Brewing Thunderstruck Coffee Por- since 1972, it’s a reliable porter that lets consumers to hit the bar. Like a dummy, you say “yes.” This 87 ter (Coffee Porter; Highland Brewing, NC). taste a bit of history. The slightest thread of a sour is a monstrously high alcohol porter brewed with Coffee forward, with jagged, roasted notes around tang near the finish is a trademark of this beer. plums. It pours heavy handed when fresh and starts the edges, this is like a pot of diner java that’s been abv: 5.6% Price: $12/12 oz 6 pack off with some boozy notes. With a few years to age on the burner for a bit too long. Faint lavender and mellow, this is going to be one beer you’re glad and floral notes ride in the distance. It’s a seasonal to have in your cellar. release with Dynamite Roasting Company. BROWN ALES abv: 17% Price: $8/12 oz abv: 5.8% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack Bolero Snort Moountie (Brown Ale; Bolero Small Change Night Windows Robust Porter River Horse Chocolate Porter (American Por- 95 Snort, NJ). This is a brown ale that feels at 89 (American Porter; Small Change Brewing, 87 ter; River Horse Brewing, NJ). A confection- home in the porter category thanks to a decent roast MA). This offers a strong roast, with some earthy ary-forward porter, this tastes like liquified sweet content. Faintly smoky, it offers aromas and flavors hop bitterness and a touch of dark chocolate fudge milk chocolate with a splash of coffee. If you like of sweet, wet pipe tobacco and a generous dash of on the back end. Medium in weight, there’s excel- M&Ms, you’re going to like this beer. sundae fudge. There’s a lot to unpack with this ale. lent foam lacing on the glass. It has prickly carbon- abv: 6.5% Price: $13/12 oz 6 pack Enjoy in a comfortable chair with some mid-tempo ation and a building bitterness as the glass empties. instrumental music to make for an excellent pairing. abv: 6.3% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack Four Peaks Kühl Beans Vanilla Coffee Porter abv: 7% Price: $15/16 oz 4 pack 86 (American Porter; Four Peaks Brewing, AZ). Smog City Coffee Porter (Coffee Porter, A combination of coffee and vanilla is welcome in Port Board Meeting (Brown Ale; Port Brew- 89 Smog City Brewing, CA). With a smooth a porter, and in this particular one the two flavors 89 ing Co., CA). Boozy and molasses forward, coffee roast, medium body and a lot of carbonation play well together. Neither the coffee addition nor and slightly astringent around the edges, there is a that keeps the taste buds alert, this pleasing porter doses of vanilla dominate on the palate but are grappa quality on the back end, with hints of chalky builds on the acidity with each sip. It was aged on intertwined around the roasted malt notes that roast on the finish. Brewed with coffee and cocao whole coffee beans and leaves a wonderful foam lac- offer up some chocolate. Ruddy brown in color, with nibs, this is an appealing beer for those who like ing on the inside of the glass. The finish brings a a thin, tan head that laces the glass well, this is a more assertive roast flavors. pleasing hop bitterness. fine pick-me-up ale for brunch, or midway through abv: 8% Price: $11/16 oz 4 pack abv: 6% Price: $14/12 oz 6 pack an afternoon get together. abv: 8.2% Price: $12/12 oz 6 pack West Sixth Pay It Forward Cocoa Porter 89 (American Porter; West Sixth Brewing, KY). Idle Hands 34 Robust American Porter Strong roast dominates from the fist sip to the 86 (American Porter; Idle Hands Craft Ales, last, building into a bit of a charred sensation on MA). The name is an homage to Red Sox slugger the taste buds yet still finishing with a noticeable David Ortiz. The beer is metallic and roast forward,

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