BUYINGGUIDE OCTOBER2020

THIS MONTH

2 CALIFORNIA 110 PIEDMONT

54 OREGON 116 LOMBARDY

69 WASHINGTON 118 NORTHEAST ITALY

78 CANADA 123 CAMPANIA

79 ARGENTINA 124 PUGLIA

82 AUSTRALIA 127 SICILY

86 SPAIN 130 SPIRITS

88 ALSACE 132 BEER

98 BORDEAUX

Vineyard in Santa Rita Hills at sunrise

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nose of this dark, inky wine. There’s a hint of cara- mel on the palate, and then zesty flavors of black- berry, cola, brown sugar and cracked pepper, framed by deeply textured structure and tons of refreshing acidity. —M.K. CALIFORNIA abv: 15.2% Price: $75 The Central Coast’s cool-climate Syrahs Copain Wines 2016 Hawk’s Butte Syrah (Yorkville Highlands). An enticing aroma early two decades ago, it was a sip of expressions is called rotundone, which also 94 of violets and dark chocolate leads to concentrated, cool-climate Syrah that revealed to me shows up in peppercorns and rosemary. Pope deep flavors that are beefy, berry-like and a bit pep- the sensory magic of wine—the way that isn’t sure why levels spike in cooler climates, pery, giving the wine lots of complexity and interest. fermented grape juice can taste more like but has heard they increase as grapes mature. Fine-grained tannins add nicely to the mouthfeel. curedN meat, dried flowers and cracked pepper “Maybe because we have a much longer grow- Best from 2024. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $50 than just simple fruit and smoked wood. To this ing season, the rotundone levels could build day, Syrah from cooler regions, whether the up higher, before sugar and ripeness levels are Donnachadh 2017 Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills). wind-whipped Northern Rhône reached,” said Pope, who often 94 Bloody meats, squid ink, black raspberry, or California’s ocean-chilled picks her Syrah in mid- to late- crushed rocks and char show on the nose of this Central Coast, still fascinates my The compound November. bottling. The palate is loaded with dried herbs, lav- ender and black plum flavors, finishing with a pinch palate most. In Santa Barbara County’s that causes these of white pepper. —M.K. Such spice, game and floral expressions is Sta. Rita Hills, producers such abv: 13.5% Price: $45 notes aren’t for everybody, and called rotundone, as Melville have been inter- the style can be quite divisive rupting the region’s heavy flow Jeff Cohn 2017 Buffalo Hill Rockpile Vineyard at parties, with half loving the which also shows of Pinot Noir with such Syr- 94 Syrah (Rockpile). Aged in 100% new French oak, this wine offers substantial layers of leather, wine and the other half believ- ahs for decades. Chad Melville up in peppercorns black pepper and blackberry jam. Luscious and ing something ran afoul in the and rosemary. founded Samsara Winery in opulently over-the-top in style, it packs remarkable bottle. But for those who do opt 2002 to push these extremes, power and flavor into a satisfyingly cohesive whole. for challenging complexity over and Winemaker Matt Brady —V.B. casual comfort, Central Coast Syrahs offer this continues the tradition. abv: 15.5% Price: $125 style in spades. Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, Cass 2016 Backbone Estate Grown Syrah The most extreme example of this style is you’ll find reviews from Italy, France, Argentina, 93 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 8. from Stolo Vineyards. Grown just miles from Australia and beyond. Be sure to check out our abv: 14.5% Price: $49 the rugged San Luis Obispo County coastline, online database at winemag.com/ratings for Nicole Pope’s wines are redolent with stunning thousands more reviews. Copain Wines 2016 Les Voisins Syrah (York­ ville Highlands). Nicely ripe fruit aromas pepper notes. The compound that causes these Cheers! —Matt Kettmann 93 and flavors meet seductive baking-spice and choco- late accents in this medium-bodied, poised and silky textured wine. It’s surprisingly elegant and well balanced for a wine so concentrated. —J.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $36 Stolo 2018 Syrah (San Luis Obispo County). Melville 2018 Donna’s Block Syrah (Sta. Rita 97 This extremely cool-climate style of Syrah 96 Hills). Cracked black pepper, black currant Drew 2017 Valenti Syrah (Mendocino Ridge). can be divisive, but this is a brilliant version for and dark violet make for a cool-climate expression 93 Potent and peppery, this bold and tannic those who crave the savory experience. Aromas of with tons of floral smoothness. There is heft to wine is packed with meaty, smoky, black-pepper underripe blackberry, seaweed, green peppercorn, the sip, where black pepper, dried herbs and black and blackberry flavors wrapped in a firm gripping rosemary, lavender and charred lamb lead into a fruits are sliced by a zesty acidity. —M.K. texture that needs cellaring to soften. It was made palate that bursts with acidity. Flavors of violet, bay abv: 14.1% Price: $48 with 75% whole clusters and aged in neutral oak. leaf, wet rocks and more pepper decorate the purple Best after 2027. —J.G. fruits. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Samsara 2015 Om Reserve Syrah (Santa abv: 13% Price: $50 abv: 13.2% Price: $46 95 Barbara County). Fresh black-plum and black-raspberry aromas are cut by lavender, rose- Jeff Cohn 2017 Silver Eagle Vineyard Syrah McPrice Myers 2017 Cuvée Kristina Syrah mary and iodine on the floral-focused nose of this 93 (Russian River Valley). From a Ulises Val- 96 (Paso Robles). Deep and rich aromas of cas- reserve bottling. Layers of nori wrap, roast beef and dez-farmed vineyard, this tastes of strawberry jam, sis, wet slate, lavender and a touch of pine needle are black cardamom meet with black fruit on the palate, nutmeg and white pepper. Secondary layers of meat layered and lavish on the nose of this Syrah, which proving denser than other Melville Syrahs, confirm- and garrigue develop along a full-throttled, softly also includes 2% each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Gra- ing its reserve status. —M.K. round and rich palate of lush opulence and ripeness, ciano and Clairette Blanche. The palate is hefty but abv: 14.3% Price: $75 leading to a hit of leather. —V.B. smooth, showing blackberry and black-currant fla- abv: 15.6% Price: $85 vors spiced up by vanilla, cardamom and star anise. Villa Creek 2018 3 Syrah (San Luis Obispo Drink now through 2030. Cellar Selection. —M.K. 95 County). Roasted black-currant, charred abv: 14.8% Price: $75 beef crust and iodine aromas are redolent on the Continued on page 25

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander­ ­Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor ­Lauren ­Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams,­ Contributing­ Edi- tors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina­ Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; ­Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne­­ Krebiehl­ in Eng- Cliff Lede 2017 Poetry Cabernet Sauvignon land; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Austin Hope 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi­ 96 (Stags Leap District). The producer’s ­Poetry P. Sullivan in ­Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey. 96 gnon (Paso Robles). Luxurious, lush aromas Vineyard is steep and at a high-elevation for the If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s of black cherry, caramel, clove and oak show on the appellation. The wine opens in tones of tar, tobacco initials appear following the note. When no initials appear fol- lowing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more nose of this reserve bottling. Polished tannins frame and brooding black currant, with highlights of cedar, reviewers­ and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all the unctuous palate, where black cherry and cream lavender and sage. It’s powerfully built and concen- tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by John Holl. tones meet with milk chocolate and mint while trated, showing the structure to last in the cellar. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its bright acidity pops on the finish. —M.K. Best from 2027–2032. Cellar Selection. —V.B. suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us abv: 15% Price: $125 abv: 15% Price: $285 by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Castello di Neive 2017 Albesani Santo Ste­ Daou 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (­Adelaida Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; 96 fano (Barbaresco). Aromas of ripe black- 96 District). Deep aromas of ­cassis and violet often good value. skinned fruit, fragrant blue flowers, new leather lead into savory tones of coffee bean, charred meat Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances. and a whiff of menthol form the alluring nose. Full and oak on the layered nose of this impressive estate Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 in feel and savory, the enveloping palate doles out bottling. The intense black-fruit and purple-flower points) are not reviewed. fleshy Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, crushed elements continue on the palate, yet it’s the array of SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS mint and tobacco set against firm, fine-grained tan- charred beef, soy and espresso elements that set it Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- nins. Drink 2023–2029. LLS–Winebow. Editors’ apart, as well as the firm structure and penetrating ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price Choice. —K.O. acidity. —M.K. with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 14.9% Price: $85 and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less, and are designated Best Buys after surpassing a specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo- cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ contact-us. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast. net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be Cliff Lede 2017 Dancing Heart Rock Block Hors Categorie 2017 Syrah (Walla Walla accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our website. 96 Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap Dis­ 96 Valley).­ The nose shows classic Walla Walla LABELS trict). This Cabernet Sauvignon was blended with Valley Syrah aromas of soot, black olive, black pep- Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given 7% Petit Verdot, 3% Merlot and 1% Malbec, and per and salami. The palate is intense and flavorful, the opportunity to submit labels only after the reviews have been given 21 months in a majority of new French oak. but also brings a sense of deftness, density, inten- finalized and assigned to a specific issue. Labels are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information Succulent dark cherry, plum and cassis are comple- sity and detail, with abundant savory and floral on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax mented by woody tannin and prominent oak, with accents. The balance is impeccable and the finish 866.896.8786; or email [email protected] considerable length and breadth. Enjoy from 2027– is seemingly endless. Best after­ 2026.Cellar Selec- Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at 2031. Cellar Selection. —V.B. tion. —S.S. winemag.com/ratings abv: 15.2% Price: $110 abv: 14.1% Price: $250

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Horsepower 2017 High Contrast Vineyard Blue Farm 2017 King Ridge Vineyard Estate Donnachadh 2017 Hillside Heritage Vines 96 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas 95 Farmed Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). 95 ­Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Aromas of bay explode from the glass, with notes of fire pit, pot- From high-elevation slopes overlooking the ocean, leaf, mint tea, pine needle, iron and sour cherry show pourri, black olive, wet stone, dried porcini and this powerhouse wine is ­intensely built and struc- on the layered nose of this bottling from Winemaker stone. The palate is sumptuous, layered, elegant and tured for aging. Youthful tannins offer fistfuls of Ernst Storm. There’s a fascinating convergence of intensely flavorful, showing abundant savory notes. grip, providing a foundation for dense tones of black those green-herb elements and ripe flashes of boy- A lingering black olive and earthy finish caps it off. cherry, earth and black tea. Enjoy from 2027–2030. senberry and black raspberry on the palate, with Best after 2025.Cellar Selection. —S.S. Cellar Selection. —V.B. hints of tobacco and tarragon ­throughout. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $121 abv: 14.8% Price: $85 abv: 13.1% Price: $52

Asuncion Ridge 2016 Lascivious (Paso Cayuse 2017 Bionic Frog Syrah (Walla Walla Donum 2017 Year of the Rooster Mikado 95 Robles). Deep aromas of smoked beef and 95 Valley). The aromas start off reserved and 95 Tree Single Vineyard Pinot Noir (­Carneros). iodine combine with boysenberry and soy on the then ramp up intensity, with notes of peat, black Blueberry, blackberry and spicy cardamom domi- nose of this blend of 76% Mourvèdre, 16% Syrah pepper, crushed flower, soot and charcuterie. The nate in this bold and brawny wine. Bright acidity and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon. Richness extends to flavors are intense but far from full throttle, show- underscores its delicious core of berry and spice fla- the palate, where shiitake mushroom and roasted ing a mesmerizing sense of restraint to the savory vors. The tannins and oak are substantial yet fully boar flavors are drizzled with a boysenberry-sage and potpourri notes. A lingering finish caps it off. supportive to the whole. —V.B. reduction sauce. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $100 abv: 14.6% Price: $40 abv: 14.1% Price: $115

Gary Farrell 2017 Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Benovia 2018 Martaella Chardonnay (Rus­ Devil Proof 2017 Farrow Ranch Malbec (Alex­ 95 Noir (Russian River Valley). Forceful in black 95 sian River Valley). This wine is bright and 95 ander Valley). Firm, supple tannins support tea, warm spice and forest floor, this bold, beauti- juicy in tangerine and peach, with a subdued thread an earthy, herbal undercurrent of cedar, pencil lead fully layered vineyard-designate wine is comple- of vanilla bean that adds richness and complex- and sweet tobacco in this varietal wine. A rich blue- mented by underlying red tones of pomegranate, ity. Balanced acidity and weight keep it fresh and berry flavor explodes on the palate, while a leathery cranberry and wild strawberry. Balanced, complex intriguing, as hints of ginger and clove play on the texture melds with a hint of dark chocolate. —V.B. and eminently appealing, it features silky, elegant­ long finish. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $175 tannins. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $55 abv: 13.8% Price: $55

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Holdredge 2018 Saralee’s Vineyard Pinot Les Belles Collines 2017 Les Sommets Aperture 2017 Oliver Ranch Cabernet Sau­ 95 Noir (Russian River Valley). Starting off on 95 ­Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Juicy 94 vignon (Alexander Valley). Robustly rich an inviting rose aroma, this wine is juicy and savory and broad in inviting red fruit, this wine has a back- in red and black cherry, with finely etched details on the palate, with intense flavors of black cherry bone of classic structure and focused acidity that of clove and dried herb, this is a well-integrated and strawberry that are accented by spice and for- give it lift and length. Blended with 6% Cabernet and opulent red. The broad structure supports the est floor. Balanced ripeness and weight give it a Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, it spent two years in power and ripeness of the fruit. It finishes on tones smoothly integrated texture and long finish. —V.B. new French oak, which adds elements of baking of black and white pepper. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $54 spice and toasted brioche. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $125 abv: 14.8% Price: $100

J. Lohr 2016 Cuvée Pau Red Wine (Paso Aperture 2017 SJ Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 95 Robles). This is a dense and detailed wine, Les Belles Collines 2015 Les Sommets Cab­ 94 (Alexander Valley). Juicy, spiced and herbal, starting with rich, inviting aromas of dark berries, 95 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This vintage this 100% varietal wine is lifted by tremendous cherries, cocoa, vanilla and mocha on the nose. contains 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, underlying acidity. This structure helps it to hold Those lavish tones carry to the palate, which is and it was given two years in entirely new French its weight and power within check, finishing with framed by chiseled tannins. But the most intrigu- oak. Time has treated it well, allowing effusive fruit flavors of black cherry, cassis and clove. —V.B. ing aspects are the wild array of oregano and dried to layer along a wall of robust, rewarding texture abv: 14.9% Price: $125 herbs that decorate the blackberry-jam and cherry- and savory spice. —V.B. juice core. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $100 abv: 14.9% Price: $60

Belle Glos 2018 Clark & Telephone Pinot Noir 94 (Santa Maria Valley). Plush aromas of black Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Freedom Hill Vine­ cherry, baked strawberry, caramel and vanilla make Jermann 2018 Vintage Tunina (Venezia 95 yard Dijon 115 Clone Pinot Noir (Willamette for a rich, inviting nose. There’s a hearty texture to 95 Giulia). One of Friuli’s most iconic wines, Valley). A striking, dense and muscular wine, this the palate, yet freshness remains intact, with a ripe this racy, elegant white opens with enticing scents is a standout among a slew of Freedom Hill desig- boysenberry flavor that’s accented by licorice and of white spring flowers, orchard fruit, citrus and nates from Patricia Green Cellars. Sappy blackberry fennel pollen. —M.K. wet stone. Savory and vibrant, the palate boasts and black-cherry fruit is streaked with highlights of abv: 14.7% Price: $55 intriguing energy and tension, delivering ripe pear, red licorice, coffee and a whiff of charred wood. The peach, nectarine and lemon drop candy alongside a tannins are polished and firm, and at 14 years of age, mineral vein and crisp acidity. Drink through 2028. these vines are just entering their prime. Editors’ LUX Wines. —K.O. Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $70 abv: 14% Price: $48

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Donum 2017 Year of the Rooster West Slope La Spinona 2016 Secondine (Barbaresco). Benovia 2018 Chardonnay (Russian River 94 Single Vineyard Pinot Noir (C­arneros). Bright 94 Iris, camphor and woodland berry aromas 94 Valley). Beautifully layered in tangerine acidity and cardamom thread throughout the con- are front and center in this fragrant red. Taut and and lemon rind, this wine is sourced from Martaella centrated core of this small-production wine, the focused, the elegant, medium-bodied palate fea- Estate and Zio Tony Ranch. Light in oak, it lets the structure and substance undeniably generous. Can- tures ripe red cherry, strawberry compote and star fruit speak, offering white peach and apricot tinged died strawberry, black cherry and pomegranate give anise set against tightly wound, fine-grained tan- in nutmeg. —V.B. a rich consistency to the flavor profile, weaving in nins. It’s well balanced, with bright acidity. Drink abv: 14.1% Price: $42 the tannins and oak with ease. —V.B. 2022–2030. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.9% Price: $125 abv: 14% Price: $65

Benovia 2017 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). 94 From the Cohn Estate Vineyard planted in Les Belles Collines 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon 1970, this brambly wine retains elegance and struc- Gary Farrell 2017 Martaella Vineyard Pinot 94 (Napa Valley). Blended with 12% Merlot, ture within its undeniable fruitiness. Brawny in 94 Noir (Russian River Valley). Savory black tea 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, this lovely cinnamon, black pepper and dark chocolate, bright meets crisp cranberry and pomegranate in this bot- wine was aged 20 months in 75% new French oak. acidity keeps it balanced and poised. —V.B. tling from the great site. Showing powerful, persis- Cedar, pencil lead, clove and dark chocolate accent abv: 15.2% Price: $42 tent tannins and a silky smooth feel, graceful oak a powerful core of cassis, with a frame of focused tones are well integrated and it finishes on flavors acidity and polished tannins. —V.B. of rose and cardamom. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $70 abv: 13.2% Price: $65

Devil Proof 2017 Rockpile Ridge Malbec 94 (Rockpile). This bold, brawny wine opens on tones of blueberry and graham cracker,­ with a Les Belles Collines 2016 Les Sommets Cab­ flow of seductive tannins and toasted oak. Lifted Holdredge 2018 Petits Cadeaux Pinot Noir 94 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This wine acidity complements the overriding fruit intensity, 94 (Russian River Valley). Delicate aromas of is a study in power and structure, with classically with strong fistfuls of black pepper, tobacco and rose petal and orange peel carry the nose. The mus- entwined elements of red fruit, earth, herb and clove playing beneath. —V.B. cular palate maintains deliciously integrated tones graceful tannins. Pencil shavings, cedar and cur- abv: 14.8% Price: $175 of succulent cranberry, strawberry and raspberry, rant give it a savory contrast and add to the length. with elegant accents of forest floor, cardamom and It will do well in the cellar. Best from 2026–2031. black tea on the finish. —V.B. Cellar­ Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $54 abv: 14.8% Price: $100

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Penley Estate 2018 Tolmer Cabernet Sauvi­ Sanford 2016 Block 5 Single Block Estate Mauritson 2017 Loam Cabernet Sauvignon 94 gnon (Coonawarra). The female clad label 94 Grown Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This spe- 94 (Sonoma County). One of the producer’s on this wine is both elegant and fierce, a reflection cial block designate from Sanford & Benedict Vine- single-soil wines, this wine is a grown on a combi- of the rock star team of women responsible for the yard starts with earthy aromas of cranberry, baked nation of three types of loam: Positas, Suther and liquid inside. This wine walks a deft line between adobe and wet clay on the nose. There’s an elegant Clough. Bright, chewy tannins wrap around power- power and restraint, layering flavors of plush dark structure to the palate, where regal, long-lasting ful baking-spice elements that highlight a core of berries with graphite, mint, bay leaf, black olive and tannins frame flavors of strawberry, cranberry, black cherry, crushed rock and dark chocolate. The earthy spice. The palate is linear and tightly knit orange rind, turned earth and flowers. —M.K. oak is pronounced yet integrated, helping to accen- with chalky tannins that lend length and complex- abv: 13.5% Price: $90 tuate clove and cinnamon tones. —V.B. ity. Drink now–2040. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ abv: 14.57% Price: $95 Choice. —C.P. abv: 14% Price: $25

Sanford 2016 Founders’ Vines Single Block 94 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). From the original block of vines first planted in 1971, Mauritson 2017 Suther Cabernet Sauvignon Planeta 2018 Eruzione 1614 Carricante this bottling exhibits the vineyard’s classic ele- 94 (Sonoma County). From a gravelly loam site 94 (Etna). Delicious, crisp and showing a great gance, starting with aromas of rounded red cherry, dappled in sandstone and shale, this 100% varietal depth of flavor, this white from the slopes of Mount nutmeg, sage and baked earth. Cranberry leads the wine is concentrated and weighty, with ripe, force- Etna doles out juicy yellow apple, peach, wild herb sip, yet layers of bay leaf and pepper provide a spicy, ful tannins. Vanilla bean, blackberry, black cherry and savory, almost salty, mineral notes. Made with earthy tension, with strong acidity still pumping. and dried herb contribute complex, lingering fla- Carricante and 10% Riesling, it has racy acidity, Drink through 2036. Cellar Selection­ . —M.K. vors. —V.B. energy and captivating mineral tension before fin- abv: 13% Price: $120 abv: 14.57% Price: $95 ishing on mouthwatering notes of honeyed lemon drop candy. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

Trimbach 2013 Cuvée des Seigneurs de 94 Ribeaupierre Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Robert Renzoni 2016 Estate Grown Sangio­ Notes of mandarin and rose petal are alluring on the Peachy Canyon 2018 G-S-M (Adelaida Dis­ 94 vese (Temecula Valley). This lightly colored nose, hovering above a peach compote core that also 94 trict). Roasted cherry, black tea, iodine and clonal selection of Sangiovese starts with elegant defines the the juicy palate. The purity of the peach charred blood-sausage aromas make for a heady mix aromas of baked strawberry, cardamom and vanilla note is sublime and uplifting, pervaded by fresh- of earth, fruit and game elements in this blend of on the nose. The palate is suave and smooth in fla- ness. Gentle sweetness makes this wine medium 69% Grenache, 22% Syrah and 9% Mourvèdre. vors of roasted strawberry and French toast spice, dry and boosts the fruit notes to perfection. Drink It’s thick, full and rich on the palate, with flavors of with a firm texture bolstered by just enough acidity. by 2050. Taub Family Selections. —A.K. mulberry jam, roasted plum, cola and tarragon, all Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 framed by polished tannins. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $58 abv: 14.8% Price: $50

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Big Table Farm 2018 Pelos Sandberg Vine­ 93 yard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This Cass 2016 Backbone Estate Grown Syrah toasty single-­vineyard cuvée gives great pleasure 93 (Paso Robles). Strong hints of charred meat, vintage after vintage. Berry and cherry fruit, bak- violet, stewed blueberry and black pepper make for ing spices and black-tea tannins come together in a heady and appealing nose. The palate offers more Valette 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). a well-balanced­ and flavor-packed young wine. The of the same, with an additional flavor reminiscent of 94 A rich, robust wine made by Winemaker depth and persistence, along with details of spice pepper- and herb-crusted lamb covered in a black- Jesse Katz for Healdsburg-based restaurateur and tobacco, make this bold and potent wine a good berry coulis. —M.K. Dustin Valette, this impresses in its brightness of candidate for cellaring. Drink through 2030. Cellar abv: 14.5% Price: $49 acidity and lengthy oak. Black cherry, plum, dried Selection. —P.G. herb and clove highlight a full-bodied opulence that abv: 13.9% Price: $62 has complexity and enduring grace. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $125

Daou 2017 Micho (Paso Robles). Aromas of Brokenwood 2019 Semillon (Hunter Val­ 93 soy, cocoa, charred meat and dried berries 93 ley). This delicate and slightly green-tinged show on the nose of this blend of 51% Merlot and Albatross Ridge 2018 Cuvée Béton Estate Semillon is made by one of the Hunter’s most 49% Cabernet Sauvignon. There’s a ripe hint of 93 Grown Chardonnay (Monterey). The nose of renowned estates. Fresh and youthful, it bounces blackberry on the midpalate, where plenty of acid- this concrete-aged bottling is tense yet generous, with aromas of fresh flower blossoms, lemon and ity and oak carry flavors of grilled meat and purple showing Meyer lemon rind and chalk tones as well lime leaf. In the mouth, Semillon’s typically waxy flowers. —M.K. as the warmth of white peach. The palate is crisp in texture and citrus oil notes are tempered by crisp abv: 14% Price: $85 nectarine and apple, yet there are rounded hints of acidity. Drink now–2030. Old Bridge Cellars. Edi- toast and sea salt. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. tors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 11% Price: $20

Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2016 Block 93 Three Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Hills). This Cass 2017 Damas Noir Estate Grown Mourvè­ impressive and well-balanced wine is concentrated Aperture 2017 Del Rio Vineyard Cabernet 93 dre (Paso Robles Geneseo District). This in a delicious black-fruit flavor, with a softly tannic, 93 Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This bold, winery is consistently showcasing the benefits of velvety texture that’s seductive. Layers of pure blue- full-bodied wine is dense in dark fruit, tar and oak, Paso’s Eastside, where warmer temperatures can berry, black cherry and dark chocolate are wrapped with accents of cinnamon, iron and crushed rock. amplify tricky varieties like Mourvèdre. This is a in a creamy mouthfeel. Best through 2028. Cellar Firm, structured tannins are supportive and grippy, ripe and rich bottling, full of baked cherry, plum, Selection. —J.G. showing their youth. Put this wine in the cellar and leather and cinnamon on the nose. The palate shows abv: 14.1% Price: $50 enjoy from 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. roasted meat, boysenberry paste and more baking abv: 14.9% Price: $125 spices. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 15.5% Price: $90

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2014 Latigo Lava Cap 2017 Reserve Petite Sirah Les Belles Collines 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon 93 ­Cabernet Franc (Red Hills). This beautiful 93 (El­ Dorado). An inky dark color, potent 93 (Napa Valley). Plush, lush and brightly Port-style dessert wine offers tempting,­concentrated graphite and dark chocolate aromas, and dense encased in rich red fruit, this bold, full-bodied wine black-fruit flavors accented by flower and orange- blueberry, mint and cedar flavors offer plenty to includes 10% Merlot and trace amounts of Caber- peel notes. It is quite sweet and full in weight, feel- ponder in this wine. It’s deep, concentrated and net Franc and Petit Verdot. Integrated oak and pow- ing smooth and just a touch tannic in texture. Best will keep improve for several more years. Best after erful tannic weight lend balance to the strucutred through 2030. —J.G. 2027. Cellar Selection. —J.G. frame. —V.B. abv: 19% Price: $50/375 ml abv: 15.4% Price: $32 abv: 14.6% Price: $70

Keller Estate 2018 El Coro Pinot Noir (Peta­ Lava Cap 2016 Estate Bottled Cabernet Franc Maidenstoen 2019 Grüner Veltliner (San Luis 93 luma Gap). Spicy cherry and black plum 93 (El Dorado). Rich and indulgent, this ripe, 93 Obispo County). There’s a dynamic array of tones wrap around well-integrated layers of savory flavorful wine packs in plenty of plump blackberry tightly spun aromas on the nose of this bottling, allspice, black tea and oak. The coolness of the and blueberry flavors and wraps them in a velvety including lime peel, grapefruit pith and a brush of appellation comes through in the lasting freshness, blanket of fine-grained tannins. While ­enjoyable white rose petal. The palate is all about zip and grip, giving it an almost crunchy texture. —V.B. now with rich foods, it will improve through at least proving extremely tense and offering plenty of cit- abv: 14.2% Price: $64 2027. Cellar Selection. —J.G. rus pith flavors.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $40 abv: 14.21% Price: $20

King Estate 2018 Steiner Block Estate Grown 93 Certified Biodynamic Pinot Gris (Willamette Les Belles Collines 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Mauritson 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). This elevated Pinot Gris offers textured 93 (Napa Valley). Sumptuous layers of mocha, 93 Valley). From the family’s Hardie Ranch, minerality from fermentation in a concrete egg, and blackberry and black cherry wrap around tight- this complex, weighty wine was fermented and fresh, layered fruit flavors of citrus flesh and rind. grained tannins and oak. The freshness on the back aged in both stainless steel and oak foudres. Sleek, There’s ample acidity as well, and it sets an example of the palate helps keep the wine crisp and focused sublime flavors of wet stone, mango and melon are for a strikingly unique style. —P.G. against the powerful ripeness. —V.B. boosted by ample acidity and a fleshy texture. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.6% Price: $70 abv: 14.1% Price: $27

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Papapietro Perry 2017 Charles Vineyard Pinot 93 Noir (Anderson Valley). This wine has a mys- Silverado 2017 Geo Cabernet Sauvignon terious slant to the flavors, offering intriguing notes Rockpile Winery 2018 Rockpile Ridge Vine­ 93 (Coombsville). This is a 100% varietal of mushroom, moss and forest floor along with rich 93 yard ­Zinfandel (Rockpile). This estate wine wine that hails from the producer’s Mount George black plum. On the finish, a touch of baking spice is among the last picked by the producer due to the Vineyard in the relatively cool appellation. Woody follows through. This kind of complexity helps it high-elevation vineyard. It tastes of blackberry, and herbal, it offers integrated layers of blueberry, stand out from the crowd, and the medium to full cherry, nutmeg and cola, with underlying notes of cranberry and red currant. Tangy acidity boosts the body and velvety tannins make it easy to sip. —J.G. dried herb and crushed rock. The texture is velvety, dense underbelly of tannin and oak, while the finish abv: 13.2% Price: $60 with a lasting chewiness. —V.B. is awash in crushed rock. —V.B. abv: 14.57% Price: $49 abv: 14.7% Price: $75

Penfolds 2017 Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 93 (South Australia). This is a strong vintage Shea 2017 Shea Vineyard Chardonnay (Wil­ Sky Devil 2017 Formation Proprietary Red of Bin 407, a multiregional South Australian Cab. 93 lamette Valley). This top-notch Chardonnay 93 Wine (Napa Valley). This ripe, powerful It opens with aromas of chocolate, cola, plush plum rests easy on the palate, rippled with citrus, apple, blend bursts across the palate in juicy black cherry, and black cherry, backed by accents of mint and melon and guava fruit. Barrel fermented in French blackberry and lasting concentration. Thick, grippy other crushed herbs. On the palate, fine, chalky oak, 14% new, it’s fragrant in a toasted hazelnut tannins support the richness and well-integrated tannins slink around silky fruit and savory herbs. tone and perfectly balanced around the fruit, barrel oak. Enjoy from 2025–2030. Cellar­ Selection. —V.B. Poised and harmonious, this has the potential to age and acid components. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 16.1% Price: $85 until 2030, but is drinking well right now. Treasury abv: 13.3% Price: $40 Wine Estates. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

Talbott 2017 Audrey Diamond T Vineyard Shea 2017 Shea Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir 93 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Monterey). Aro- 93 (Willamette Valley). The estate bottling mas of toasted almond, tangerine zest and browned Rockpile Winery 2018 Jack’s Cabin Vineyard brings together the various clones planted at this butter converge on the nose. Seared lemon, smooth 93 Zinfandel­ (Rockpile). Blended with 5% iconic vineyard. Offering a complex weave of plum, oak, sea salt and grilled pineapple flavors make for a ­Petite Sirah, this estate wine from high-elevation marionberry and blackberry, it matches its deli- fresh yet powerful expression on the palate. —M.K. vines tastes of crushed rock and tilled soil. With cious fruit with 40% new French oak, adding a abv: 14.4% Price: $75 elegance and understated power, it delivers fresh, seam of coffee and dark chocolate. The tannins are focused flavors of black cherry, cinnamon and polished to a fine gloss.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. chocolate, the tannins plushly layered and well inte- abv: 14% Price: $45 grated. —V.B. abv: 14.57% Price: $49

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Talbott 2017 Diamond T Vineyard Estate Williams Selyem 2018 Papera Vineyard Balverne 2019 Forever Wild Estate Grown 93 Grown Chardonnay (Monterey). Aromas of 93 ­Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Tones of 92 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). plump white peach, seared lemon and schmaltz orange peel, cranberry and blackberry carry the From the certified sustainable, 710-acre Notre Vue make for a savory entry to the nose of this bottling nose, offering all the brambly elements of the vari- Estate, this crisp, citrus-driven wine is fleshy and from a vineyard above the Carmel Valley. There is a ety. Bold, ripe and cohesive, it retains bright acidity textured in feel, with bold, layered flavors of straw- comforting richness to the sip, yet it’s cut by strong and a nervy feel that lend balance. —V.B. berry and peach. Fruity and fresh, it delivers bal- acidity, lemon zest and an engaging texture. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $65 ance and complexity. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $52 abv: 14.1% Price: $24

Williams Selyem 2018 Unoaked Chardon­ Talbott 2017 Sarah Case Sleepy Hollow Vine­ 93 nay (Russian River Valley). Juicy, fresh and Bartholomew Estate 2018 Garden Block 93 yard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia bright, this wine is driven by citrus-laden acidity 92 ­Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). This is a rich, Highlands). Dried cherry and berry aromas meet that boosts an underlying richness. Robust apple brawny wine that shows class and structure. It with leather, game and baked earth on the complex and pear flavors wrap around touches of earth and offers dense tones of dark plum, cranberry and nose of this bottling from a famed vineyard—one of wet stone that persist on the finish. —V.B. orange peel, with a healthy overlay of Christmas the oldest in the appellation. The palate is reminis- abv: 13.6% Price: $39 spice and gingerbread. Elongated tannins and inte- cent of pork roasted in a cherry compote with car- grated oak frame it all. —V.B. damom dust, proving delicious and layered. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $45 abv: 14.4% Price: $75

Aperture 2017 Soil Specific Red Wine (Alex­ 92 ander Valley). Made from 52% Malbec and 48% Merlot, this red is fleshy and soft on the pal- Borgo Conventi 2018 Sauvignon (Collio). Williams Selyem 2018 Heintz Vineyard Char­ ate, with flavors of iron, plum, cinnamon and inte- 92 Enticing aromas of tropical fruit, citrus, hay 93 donnay (Russian River Valley). Anise, fen- grated oak. Lushly textured, the tannins are plush and crushed tomato vine leap out of the glass in this nel and honey open the way to a creamy, lush and and lend to the richness. —V.B. fragrant, inviting white. The savory, racy palate deliv- earthy midpalate. Interwoven layers of Gravenstein abv: 14.4% Price: $55 ers juicy white grapefruit, white peach and grilled apple, pear and nutmeg round out the flavor profile, herb alongside crisp acidity. Lemon drop candy and with sleek acidity persistent beneath. —V.B. tangy oyster shell notes linger on the close. Folio Fine abv: 13.9% Price: $65 Wine Partners. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

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Château de Lestiac 2018 Cuvée Prestige FEL 2018 Chardonnay (Anderson Valley). J. Lohr 2016 Cuvée Pom Red Wine (Paso 92 (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). This beauti- 92 Fresh, vibrant fruit aromas and flavors drive 92 Robles). P­olished aromas of dark blackberry fully perfumed wine is rich in generous black fruits this full-bodied and well-balanced wine. It floods and cherry are wrapped around cedar on the well- and ripe tannins. The dark, dry core will soften in the palate with flavors of crisp apple, ripe pear and integrated nose of this bottling. It’s heavy and thick time to meld with the juicy acidity and dense body. a touch of pineapple while subtle hints of baking on the palate, where black currant, blackberry, dried Drink from 2022. Misa Imports. —R.V. spice play in the background. —J.G. herbs and soy sauce mingle. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.6% Price: $32 abv: 14.9% Price: $60

Château Tanesse 2018 Cadillac Côtes de Bor­ Iron Horse 2018 Unoaked Chardonnay (Green J. Lohr 2016 Cuvée St. E Red Wine (Paso 92 deaux. This ripe, wood-aged wine comes 92 Valley). Peach, pear and a touch of anise 92 Robles). Strong aromas of black cherry, from a 130-acre estate close to Garonne river. It is rise to the fore of this buzzy, energetic white that’s toasted oak, caramel, vanilla, charred coffee bean and rich, toasty, spicy and packed with dark berry fla- unfettered by oak. Clean and crisp in style, it simul- milk chocolate make for a heavy nose in this blend. vors. While full in feel, the weight is balanced by taneously offers enough body weight and lush tex- Blackberry and dry elderberry flavors are framed by juicy blackberry fruit and bright acidity on the fin- ture to be balanced and lengthy. —V.B. firm tannins and asphalt on the palate. —M.K. ish. Drink from 2021. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $32 abv: 14.9% Price: $60 abv: 14% Price: $21

Iron Horse 2017 Rued Clone Chardonnay Jermann 2019 Pinot Grigio (Friuli). Aromas Davis Bynum 2019 Jane’s Vineyard Rosé of 92 (Green Valley). Light, focused and fresh, this 92 of Alpine herb, white spring flower and ripe 92 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Pretty aro- clone-specific wine is intense in aromas of honey- orchard fruit mingle together in the glass. Tangy and mas of cherry pie, rose and blood orange highlight suckle and apple blossom. On the palate, lifted acid- rounded, the savory palate boasts intense flavor and a crisp, lengthy explosion of fresh fruitiness in this ity boosts elegant flavors of white peach and Meyer finesse, doling out ripe yellow pear, white peach and vineyard-designated wine. Meyer lemon and water- lemon. —V.B. a hint of green melon alongside fresh acidity. LUX melon linger on the lengthy finish. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $57 Wines. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $30

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020

Jermann 2019 Vinnae Ribolla Gialla (Venezia King Estate 2018 Quail Run Vineyards Viog­ McKinney 2017 Tuscan Nights (Santa Bar­ 92 Giulia). Made with small additions of Ries- 92 nier (Rogue Valley). This is a blend of two 92 bara County). Lively aromas of red cherry ling and Friulano, this elegant white has enticing lots, one fermented in stainless, one in new oak. and raspberry are warmed up by a touch of cara- aromas of spring blossoms, yellow stone fruit and a It’s a lovely, acid-driven wine, with pinpoint fla- mel on the nose of this blend of 66% Sangiovese light whiff of toasted nut. Racy and linear, the crisp, vors of lemon, lime, gooseberry and green apple. and 34% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark strawberry and savory palate delivers honeydew, yellow peach and The botanical highlights often found in Viognier are black raspberry flavors are wrapped in fresh acidity a tangy mineral note alongside bright acidity. LUX light, and the overall balance is excellent. ­Editors’ on the palate, where the structure holds firm into a Wines. —K.O. Choice. —P.G. wood-spice-kissed finish. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $34 abv: 13.6% Price: $26 abv: 14.2% Price: $75

King Estate 2018 Backbone Pinot Gris (Wil­ Matchbook 2017 The Arsonist Red Blend 92 lamette Valley). This wine is a blend of top 92 (California). This wine is superconcentrated barrels from five different vineyards, and offers the and complex in its array of red and black fruit fla- Penley Estate 2018 Phoenix Cabernet Sauvi­ sort of layered complexity that argues for Pinot Gris vors, with subtle oak spices and a rich texture. A 92 gnon (Coonawarra). Tannin hounds rejoice, as a top-tier, world-class variety. Well-integrated blend of Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvi- this quintessential Aussie Cab is awash with plump fruit flavors of apple and pear, with mixed spices gnon, it has a mouthcoating effect and a lingering currant and plum fruit, with bay leaf, olive, tobacco and a dash of vanilla, keep expanding and leaving a gorgeous finish. —J.G. and eucalyptus tones all cinched by muscular, nuanced impression through the long finish. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $22 leathery tannins. It’s a powerful but balanced wine abv: 13.7% Price: $28 crying out for a slab of rare steak. Drink now–2035. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P. abv: 14% Price: $20

Mauritson 2018 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). King Estate 2018 Johnson School Vineyard 92 This exuberant, complex red is made from a Prunotto 2017 Barbaresco. Enticing aromas 92 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Leesy, tex- mix of estate vineyards as well as grower sites, like 92 of violet and iris mingle with forest berry tural, lemony and anchored in a crushed rock tone, Treborce and Montecillo. While it is concentrated and crushed herb in this sleek, savory red. Smooth this tasty wine is from a Chehalem Mountains in black cherry, its soul leans more savory and and elegantly structured, the bright palate shows vineyard, though labeled­ simply Willamette Valley. herbal to display an understated elegance. —V.B. juicy red cherry, blood orange and star anise along- The flavors round out nicely on the palate in citrus abv: 14.75% Price: $40 side taut, polished tannins. It’s already enjoyable and apple fruit tones, with pretty accents of vanilla but also has a youthful vibrance that will carry it wafer and macaroon. ­Editors’ Choice. —P.G. for several years or more. Drink through 2027. Ste. abv: 14% Price: $26 Michelle Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

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Sanford 2017 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sta. 92 Rita Hills). Crisp aromas of black-cherry Williams Selyem 2018 Fanucchi-Wood Road sorbet, slate and wet earth show on the nose of this 92 Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). appellation blend. There’s a great mineral streak on Brawny and aromatic in blackberry, dark cherry the palate, where concrete and crushed stone flavors Septima 2016 Gran Reserva (Mendoza). and dried herb, this old-vine wine is thick and well frame the cranberry core. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 92 Berry and black plum aromas are forward integrated. The flavors veer from rich and broad to abv: 13.5% Price: $48 for the vintage, a year best known for heavy rains savory and spicy, with a lasting element of crushed and leaner wines. The palate feel is more lean in rock —V.B. profile, offering flavors of red plum, currant and abv: 15.1% Price: $65 coconut. Drink this blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sau- vignon and Tannat through 2023. Raventos Codor- niu. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $35

Sanford 2016 Dominio del Falcon Single 92 Block Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Aromas of baked cherry, rose petal and Williams Selyem 2018 Olivet Lane Vineyard ­leather show on the nose of this bottling. The savory 92 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). From a and earthy elements arise on the palate as well, yet historic site in the heart of the appellation, this wine there is a bright core of cherry and cranberry that offers tones of flowers and earth, with rounded notes persists. —M.K. Silverado 2016 Mt George Vineyard Estate of baked apple and pear. It is complex, opulent and abv: 14% Price: $90 92 Grown Merlot (Coombsville). Sharp red cur- textured, finishing on a toasted oak accent. —V.B. rant, plum and cherry tones wrap around a firm abv: 14.8% Price: $65 texture in this well-structured wine. Rich and full in feel, it delivers softness and touches of clove and black pepper on the long finish. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $40

Sangiacomo 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma 92 Coast). Sourced from the family’s Green Andis 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Sierra Foot­ Acres and Roberts Road Vineyards, this wine is 91 hills). Ripe, rounded and full bodied, this hearty and oak-driven yet unctuously styled in pear, wine offers ripe apple and pear flavors that are peach and vanilla.­ The richness continues on the especially mouthfilling. The addition of 15% Sémil- lush, opulent palate, finishing in a flurry of crème Trione 2016 Henry’s Blend Geyserville Ranch lon may account for that. A tangy foundation of brûlée. —V.B. 92 (Alexander Valley). This is a blend of 35% acidity keeps it well balanced. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $55 Cabernet Sauvignon and 34% Merlot, with smaller abv: 14.5% Price: $25 amounts of Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit ­Verdot. Tones of clove, cassis and blackberry jam carry the effusive palate, with a floral accent adding lift. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $58

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020

Banshee 2019 Rosé (Mendocino County). Château de Lyde 2018 Cadillac Côtes de Bor­ Cooper Mountain 2017 Made With Bio­dynamic 91 Complex fruit flavors and a snappy texture 91 deaux. With 70% Merlot in the blend, this is 91 Grapes Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This make this medium-bodied wine both refreshing and a rich wine. Succulent black plum and berry fruits estate-grown, biodynamic wine brings extra nuances satisfying. Brilliant sour cherry and rich grapefruit are still developing into a juicy, ripe place while the that add considerable flavor interest. It’s striated notes light up the palate. —J.G. tannins are beginning to soften. Drink this dense with streaks of flower and earth, while the palate abv: 13.2% Price: $22 wine from 2021. Misa Imports. —R.V. opens into black fruits and coffee grounds. It is all abv: 14% Price: $17 well integrated­ and proportionate, with good texture and impressive length. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

Borgo Conventi 2018 Friulano (Collio). Aro- 91 mas of yellow stone fruit, spring wildflower Château Hyot 2018 Réserve (Castillon Côtes and Alpine herb lead the nose. Elegant and linear, 91 de Bordeaux). This densely textured wine the vibrant, savory palate offers yellow peach, apri- is concentrated and dark, with a layer of tannins cot and a hint of graphite alongside bright acid- and plenty of toasty flavors from wood aging. Rich ity. It closes on an almond note. Folio Fine Wine black-plum and -berry fruits are moving forward to Coppi 2017 Senatore Primitivo (Gioia del Partners. —K.O. become part of a wine that has good aging potential. 91 Colle). This elegant red starts off with lifted abv: 13% Price: $19 Drink from 2022. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. tones of cherry and blackberry on the nose, dotted abv: 14.5% Price: $40 with hints of tilled earth and violet. It’s polished yet firm on the palate, giving a solid frame for tones of crushed gravel and orange peel to shine against the berry fruit. It’s accessible now, but should hold well through 2025. Wine 4 All. —A.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

Cave Spring 2018 Riesling (Niagara Penin­ 91 sula). Balance is the watchword for this wine, reaching across the dynamic tension between the residual fruit sugar and the searing acidity. In the Château le Gardera 2018 Cuvée Bio (Bordeaux mix are tangy flavors of apple, white melon, lemon 91 Supérieur). On the southern slopes of the and tangerine. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Entre-deux-Mers, this vineyard surrounds a grand abv: 11% Price: $17 19th-century chateau. This organic wine offers rich Diora 2018 Le Splendeur du Soleil Chardon­ tannins and powerful black fruits. Its structure will 91 nay (Monterey). Aromas of smoked apple, red soften and the wine will be ready from 2021. Wine- pear and chamomile show on the nose of this bot- berry America LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. tling. There’s a flashy sizzle of acidity on the palate, abv: 13.5% Price: $18 where pineapple, Asian pear, toast and white peach make for a rich, creamy expression. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

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Domaine Divio 2019 Pinot Beurot (Willamette Grosgrain 2018 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah Ken Wright 2017 Pinot Noir (Willamette 91 Valley). The unusual moniker, Winemaker 91 (Walla Walla Valley). This wine hails from 91 Valley).­ Ken Wright’s most affordable Pinot Bruno Corneaux explains, is the traditional Burgun- one of the most esteemed Syrah vineyards in the Noir is back in good supply, and just as aromatic and dian name for Pinot Gris. Fermented in neutral oak state. Coming from Block 36 and aged 11 months in beautifully structured as ever. It starts out on the and left on the lees until bottling, this is a smooth, neutral oak, plum and boysenberry aromas are out lean side, hinting at rhubarb but rolling into riper supple wine, with lovely flavors of cut pear and front, followed by violet, thistle and dried herb. The raspberry and spicy plum fruit. The herbs have apple cobbler. The texture and lingering fruit flavors palate brings exquisitely pure, sharply etched red- a peppery bite, and the overall impression is of a suggest drinking this while young, though it should fruit flavors. It’s a beautifully understated wine that complex and layered wine. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. age well through 2025. —P.G. also shows impressive staying power, boding well abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 12.8% Price: $28 for its life in the cellar. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $40

Kettmeir 2019 Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). Dry Creek Vineyard 2019 Sauvignon Blanc 91 Hawthorn and yellow pear aromas form the 91 (Dry Creek Valley). A perennial bright star, Iron Horse 2017 Heart of the Vineyard Char­ nose. The aromas segue over to the smooth, crisp this white opens on tones of lemon rind, stone and 91 donnay (Green Valley). Powerful and fleshy palate, along with white peach, baking spice and lychee. Textured and lively in acidity, it has com- on the palate, this is a blend of five blocks from the a hint of white almond. Vibrant acidity lifts the plexity and approachability in equal measure. —V.B. estate. Delicious flavors of mango, fig and toasted creamy, delicious flavors. Santa Margherita USA. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 oak deliver plenty of intensity, with crisp acidity Editors’ Choice. —K.O. lending balance. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.4% Price: $57

Eberle 2017 Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sau­ 91 vignon (Paso Robles). Roasted blackberry King Estate 2018 Foris Vineyard Pinot Blanc and toasted brioche aromas make for a cohesive mix Iron Horse 2017 Native Yeast Chardonnay 91 (Rogue Valley). The Foris vineyard is a cool of smoke and fruit on the nose of this bottling. The 91 (Green Valley). Steely and floral, this wine is site in southwestern Oregon. This is a tart, tangy, texture on the palate is engaging, with just enough light in approach and brimming in elegance. Apple tasty style of Pinot Blanc that features crisp lemon, tannins and acidity to hold up those seared berry, and pear appear on the palate in a crunchy form, grapefruit, apple and a touch of white peach. It’s a dried pepper and cracked pepper flavors. —M.K. while the texture turns silky on the finish. —V.B. spicy, delightful wine for those who revel in high- abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 13.4% Price: $57 acid whites. Editors’­ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $24

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 King Estate 2018 Inscription Pinot Noir (Willa­ Legaris 2016 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). A San Simeon 2017 Estate Reserve Petite Sirah 91 mette Valley). This new project from the 91 savory nose with ripe berry aromas and 91 (Paso Robles). Baked blackberry and pinches estate offers ample production and a savvy price integrated oak hits the right notes. The medium to of nutmeg and star anise make for a rich and pleas- point. Best of all, it’s mighty tasty. Aged in 30% full palate is bold and brightened by acidity. Fla- ant entry on the nose of this wine. Those baking new oak, this wine ripples in blackberry and black vors of dark berry, peppery spice and oak finish spices decorate the palate as well, where charred raspberry flavors, balanced by fresh acidity and ripe with some warmth. Drink through 2023. Raventos meat and blistered berry flavors also show. —M.K. tannins. Editors’­ Choice. —P.G. Codorniu. —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $30 abv: 13.2% Price:­ $20 abv: 15% Price: $26

Sevtap 2019 Rosé of Grenache (Santa Ynez 91 Valley). Clean hints of chalk, strawberry and Lava Cap NV Mourvèdre (El Dorado). Dense Lük 2017 Crater View Vineyard Petite Sirah a hint of mint show on the nose of this Grenache- 91 and flavorful, this complex, ripe wine offers a 91 (Rogue Valley). This impressive wine builds based rosé. The palate remains crisp in texture yet great array of baking spice and black pepper aromas on ripe black-cherry fruit with a wide seam of cola. rounded in feel, with flavors of melon, wet stone followed by meaty, rich, berry flavors. It is full in The tannins are polished and provide plenty of grip, and a hint of brine. —M.K. feel and firmly tannic. Drink through 2025. —J.G. but do not dominate. The Petite Sirah was cofer- abv: 13.3% Price: $35 abv: 14.6% Price: $32 mented with 7% Roussanne. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

Talbott 2017 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Estate Lava Cap 2017 Estate Bottled Merlot (El 91 Grown Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). 91 Dorado). Deep and plummy in flavor, this Matchbook 2018 Estate Bottled Petite Sirah Lime balm, nectarine, mint and gardenia aromas concentrated and full-bodied wine frames rich 91 (Dunnigan Hills). This wine is richly flavored combine on the nose of this bottling from the famed blackberry and black plum flavors with moderate and boldly tannic, literally coating the mouth. It is vineyard. The palate is bright, with orange peel and tannins. Subtle oak spices add some complexity and deep and dark in color, packed with blackberry jam seared Meyer lemon flavors alongside warmer tones linger on the finish, adding extra interest. —J.G. and strawberry flavors, with a mouthfeel that is vel- of toasted almond and butter that arise toward the abv: 14% Price: $25 vety in texture. Best through 2028. —J.G. finish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 abv: 14.6% Price: $42

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The Four Graces 2018 Dundee Hills Reserve Willamette Valley Vineyards 2017 Dijon Clone Antigal 2015 Aduentus Cabernet Franc 91 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). A pretty violet 91 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Immedi- 90 (Mendoza). Leafy, spicy berry aromas are aroma leads the way into a solid wine packed with ately drinkable, this opens with pretty accents of true to the Cab Franc variety and include notes of blueberry, blackberry and plum fruit flavors. A hint toasted coconut around stone fruit and apple. It’s smoked paprika and fennel. A full palate rings with of cola and a streak of dark chocolate contribute to spicy and delicious, and 16 months in 20% new tartaric bite, while this tastes of spicy black fruits a potent, powerful Pinot that can take on almost any French oak adds a swirl of butterscotch trailing the and chocolaty oak. A warm finish caps it off. Cork sort of meat entrée, including a big burger. —P.G. finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Alliance. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 14.8% Price: $20

Valentín Bianchi 2017 Famiglia Bianchi Gran 2Hawk 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Rogue Baileyana 2018 Firepeak Chardonnay (Edna 91 Malbec (Uco Valley). Ripe berry aromas are 90 Valley).­ This is sappy wine is driven by a 90 Valley). Dried lemon peel and sandalwood at the heart of a smooth nose, while this red shows lip-smacking lemon tone. Lemon, grapefruit and lead into earthier tones of damp forest logs and the freshness and snap that high-elevation Uco Val- green-pineapple flavors abound. If you love lemon- struck match on the nose of this bottling. There’s ley Malbec is known for. Blackberry, cassis, coffee ade, but with the extra complexity of a ripe Sauvi- a tight, linear texture to the palate, where ashy and and spice flavors finish dark and toasty, with some gnon Blanc, this is for you. —P.G. chalky flavors meet with light oak and seared pine- good intensity. Drink through 2023. Quintessential abv: 13.1% Price: $26 apple. —M.K. Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $28 abv: 14.1% Price: $30

Acrobat 2018 Pinot Gris (Oregon). Punchy, 90 firm and full in feel, this white brings a Belle Glos 2018 Dairyman Pinot Noir (Rus­ Willamette Valley Vineyards 2019 Whole crisp Asian pear flavor framed by apple-skin pheno- 90 sian River Valley). Toasted oak and cherry 91 ­Cluster Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). The lics. It’s a straightforward style, but well done and a cola make for a jammy experience on the palate. winery consistently hits a home run with this young, good value. —P.G. This is robust and rich in feel, perfect for lovers of bright and delicious wine. It’s a perfect light red for abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Pinot’s hedonistic side. —V.B. picnics or garden parties, with effusive plum and abv: 14.5% Price: $55 cherry fruit lightly touched with milk chocolate. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Château Langoiran 2018 Cadillac Côtes de Decoy 2018 Pinot Noir (California). Fresh Dry Creek Vineyard 2017 Cabernet Sauvi­ 90 Bordeaux. The estate sits on the slopes 90 raspberry and black-cherry aromas light up 90 gnon (Dry Creek Valley). This is a greatly above the Garonne river southeast of Bordeaux city. this lively, mouthwatering, medium-bodied wine. approachable and well-made wine, blended with This wine shows richness and density while also The exuberant fruitiness up front leads to subtle small amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec having a smooth texture of tannins sustained by baking-spice tones on the palate and tangy cran- and Petit Verdot. Smoky, perfumed oak leads to a blackberry fruits. Although it is rich, it is lifted by berry on the finish. —J.G. juicy center of black currant, black cherry, cedar bright acidity on the finish. Drink from 2021. Misa abv: 14.1% Price: $25 and dried herb, finishing on supple tannins. —V.B. Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 12.5% Price: $21

Diora 2018 La Petite Grace Pinot Noir (Mon­ 90 terey). This is a boldly ripe and oaky wine, Coppi 2017 Don Antonio Primitivo (Puglia). offering rich comfort to those in search of such ele- 90 Spicy bramble berry, blood orange and vio- ments. The barrel influence on the nose is strong, Dry Creek Vineyard 2017 Old Vine Zinfandel let start off this fresh, focused red. The palate is with loads of vanilla and caramel over the baked 90 (Dry Creek Valley). From vines averaging medium in weight and juicy in flavors of tart cherry cherry core. The palate shows the same, picking 100 years in age, this hearty wine brings blackberry and red plum. Acidity is the main driver here, but a up nutmeg, mace and clove, with a smooth cherry- jam, vanilla and black cherry to the fore. Thick tan- firm frame of tannins lends support, yielding a pol- paste flavor. —M.K. nins support a full-bodied palate, highlighted in ished, delicious outcome. Wine 4 All. —A.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $26 black pepper and baking spice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 abv: 14.9% Price: $35

Dry Creek Vineyard 2018 Heritage Vines 90 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). Blended with 22% Petite Sirah and 1% Carignan, this thick, full- Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2015 Cabernet bodied wine is robust in feel. Cranberry, plum and 90 Sauvignon (Red Hills). This immense wine Darcie Kent Vineyards 2016 Old Vines Merlot blackberry give the fruit a tangy brightness before is wrapped tightly in tannins, holding the black cur- 90 (San Francisco Bay). Fruity and delicious, finishing touches of cola and cinnamon. —V.B. rant and black cherry flavors firmly in check while this silky and nicely concentrated wine tastes pure abv: 14.5% Price: $26 a drying sensation puckers the palate. It has good and feels smooth. A medium body and ultrasoft tan- focus and concentration underneath all that, which nins lift fresh flavors of blackberry and poached bodes well for aging. Best after 2026. —J.G. plum. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $75 abv: 13.9% Price: $45

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J. Lohr 2016 Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sau­ Lawer 2019 Rosé of Syrah (Knights Valley). Nubori 2016 Edición Limitada Crianza 90 vignon (St. Helena). With a smattering of 90 This rosé offers tones of ripe strawberry, 90 (Rioja). Forget the normal criteria for Rioja Petit Verdot, this hearty, full-bodied red is robust in raspberry and garrigue. Crisp acidity complements crianza, because this isn’t light in fruit, weight or oak. Tobacco, leather, clove and char highlight a con- the herbal complexity, adding length and breadth to oak. Just the opposite: The nose is concentrated, centrated dark-berry frame, with a lingering mocha the wine. —V.B. dark and a touch raisiny, with overt oak aromas. tone on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $25 A full palate is cut by healthy acidity, while this is abv: 14.9% Price: $60 packed with blackberry and chocolate flavors. Drink through 2026. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

Lük 2018 West Block Havlin Vineyard Char­ Jermann 2018 Where Dreams Have No End 90 donnay (Van Duzer Corridor). This is a leesy, 90 (Venezia Giulia). Aromas of French oak, textured wine, with apple and pear flavors. Entirely toast and yellow apple are front and center. Made barrel fermented, it was aged 10 months in 15% Opaque 2017 Darkness (Paso Robles). This predominantly with Chardonnay and aged in oak new French oak. A light hint of cinnamon runs 90 red blend of six varieties is zesty in style, barrels, it has a smooth, elegant palate offering ripe pleasantly through the finish. —P.G. starting with fresh boysenberry and lavender aro- pear, white peach, vanilla and butterscotch along- abv: 13.2% Price: $34 mas. The floral aspects grow on the palate, where side fresh acidity. LUX Wines. —K.O. violet and lilac flavors meet with boysenberry sor- abv: 13% Price: $70 bet. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

Nectar Of The Dogs NV CCF Mikmurphy 90 (Paso Robles). Black olive, dried berry and Kettmeir 2019 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). charred beef aromas show on the nose of this Cab- 90 Tangy and delicious, this vibrant white ernet Sauvignon-based blend. Deep black-plum and opens with delicate scents of spring blossoms and black-currant flavors meet with smoked meat and white stone fruit. On the crisp palate, fresh acidity black pepper on the palate, framed by tense acidity accompanies green apple, white peach and fennel. and dense tannins. —M.K. Santa Margherita USA. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $43 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Russiz Superiore 2016 Col Disôre (Collio). 90 Aromas of French oak, vanilla, toast and white orchard fruit waft out of the glass. On the elegant palate, fresh acidity lifts ripe yellow apple, peach and butterscotch before a café au lait finish. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Sidecar Wine Trials 2017 Off The Wagon Terras Gauda 2019 Abadía de San Campio 90 (Rogue Valley). This is a blend of 31% Car- 90 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Apple, stone fruit menère, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet and mineral aromas are a touch leesy on the nose. Franc and 19% Malbec. Dark fruits and light toast This Albariño shows some fullness, while pine, from a small percentage of new oak ­barrels lead St. Huberts The Stag 2017 Red (Paso ­Robles). apple, nectarine and citrus flavors cover the full through a substantial wine, with firm tannins and a 90 There’s a powerful boysenberry core to the spectrum of flavors. Drink now. Trinchero Family streak of graphite. —P.G. nose of this bottling, which also offers brown spice Estates. —M.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $29 and smoke on the cohesive nose. It lands quite rich abv: 12.5% Price: $20 on the palate, where dark berry flavors meet with lavender, caramel and French toast. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $20

Silverado 2017 Estate Grown Cabernet Sau­ The Four Graces 2019 Pinot Blanc (Willa­ 90 vignon (Napa Valley). A healthy 13% Mer- 90 mette Valley). Tart yet still rather soft on lot contributes softness and lifted red fruit to this the palate, this brings a mix of light green herbs, food-friendly, balanced wine. Cherry and currant Talbott 2018 Kali Hart Estate Grown Chardon­ apples, lemons and limes. The overall weight is light accent the smooth, rounded texture and supple, 90 nay (Monterey). Gravenstein apple, fresh and tangy, the balance spot on. It’s a most refreshing lengthy tannins. —V.B. pear and a hint of gardenia make for a clean and style to enjoy through 2022. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $56 broad nose in this always solid bottling. It’s plush abv: 13.5% Price: $23 and round on the palate, where baked white-peach and vanilla flavors are lifted by clove and cinnamon accents. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $20

Troon 2019 Estate Bottled Kubli Bench 90 Piquette Méthode Ancestrale (Applegate Valley). ­Piquette is made from the must after press- ing with the addition of water. Using a mix of white Tangent 2018 Paragon Vineyard Albariño and red grapes, this delightful wine was blended, St. Huberts The Stag 2017 Cabernet Sau­ 90 (Edna Valley). There’s a pleasant stony partially fermented in the bottle, disgorged and re- 90 vignon (Paso Robles). Polished aromas of streak on the nose of this bottling, where aromas of capped with a crown seal. Pétillant, bone dry and roasted blackberry, crushed rocks, fresh violet and lime and lemon meet with wet gravel. That wet-rock a lovely persimmon hue, it’s lightly fruity in apple wet slate show on the nose of this bottling. The minerality coats the palate as well, which also offers and berry tones—a perfect summer sipper. Editors’ smooth palate packs ripe blackberry jam and black more rounded peach and lemon-pith flavors. —M.K. Choice. —P.G. cherry with toasted and roasted flavors, made more abv: 14.1% Price: $17 abv: 10.5% Price: $25 complex by a punch of green herbs. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

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BEST BUYS

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2019 Whole 90 Cluster Rosé of Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).­ Bright and spicy, this does not shy away Bogle 2017 Pinot Noir (California). Seduc- from herbal scents and flavors, notably thyme 91 tive and spicy, this full-bodied, abundantly and chervil. The crunchy fruit conjures up freshly Andis 2019 Painted Fields Cuvée Blanc flavorful wine combines ripe black fruits with picked mountain strawberries. It’s clean, crisp and 88 (Sierra Foothills). Crisp and citrusy, this ­attractive wood smoke, clove and anise nuances. It’s most refreshing. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. medium-bodied wine is mostly a blend of Vermen- mouthfilling and rich, but well balanced by acidity abv: 13% Price: $18 tino and Grenache Blanc. It leads with good acidity and light tannins. Best Buy. —J.G. and bright lemon, lime and grapefruit notes. The abv: 14.5% Price: $12 texture is tangy and palate cleansing. —J.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $25

Ryder Estate 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (­Central 89 Coast). This reliable white wine combines Château de Benauge 2018 Cuvée des Seig­ sharp tones of grass, rainy cement and lime peel 91 neurs (Bordeaux Supérieur). The 12th- with rounder yellow apple on the nose. The palate Greg Norman Estates 2018 Shiraz (Lime­ century castle of Benauge is on the heights above pulls a similar trick, offering juicy pear with wet- 85 stone Coast). This Shiraz offers flavors of the Garonne valley. This wine from the old estate gravel minerality and apple-rind tartness. Editors’ sun-ripened plums and currants, with accents of is softly rich, with a firm background of tannins. Choice. —M.K. vanilla and spiced oak. The palate is on the smooth Dense wood and spice flavors indicate its youth and abv: 13.5% Price: $15 side, rich but with a bite of astringent tannins and also its potential. Drink this rich wine from 2021. tart fruit. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 abv: 14.5% Price: $15

BEST BUYS

Scheid 2019 Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc 89 (Monterey). Aromas of green pear, lime peel and lawn clippings show on the zesty nose of this Flat Top Hills 2019 Rosé (California). This bottling. There’s a fresh and easy energy to the pal- 91 nicely balanced wine combines a light, crisp ate, where green apple peel, red apple and guava fla- feel with substantive and concentrated fruit flavors vors slide into the finish. —M.K. Famille Sichel 2019 Sirius (Bordeaux Blanc). that grow and expand on the palate, making it espe- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 92 Partly fermented in wood, this balanced cially appetizing. Best Buy. —J.G. wine reveals delicious citrus acidity allied to tropi- abv: 13% Price: $14 cal fruits and cinnamon. The wine is both fruity and textured, with minerality and zingy orange zest. Drink now. Chambers & Chambers. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Matchbook 2018 Estate Bottled Red Gravel Château de Marsan 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. The Show 2018 Malbec (Mendoza). Berry 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dunnigan Hills). This is 90 Aromatic and rich in spice as well as tangy 90 aromas are pleasant and ripe, with an a brawny, full-bodied and firmly tannic wine that’s acidity, this wine is fruity in a raspberry flavor. herbal note in the backdrop. A fleshy, fruity pal- nevertheless seductive, complex and layered. A dark Zesty acidity lends plenty of balance. Drink now. ate is easy to process, while this Malbec tastes of color and impressions of tobacco, black currant and Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. lightly spiced oak, raspberry and cassis. A steady sage make it delicious to sip. Best through 2027. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 finish confirms the wine’s overall quality. Trinchero Best Buy. —J.G. Family Estates. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $15 abv: 13.8% Price: $15

Chloe 2019 Rosé (Central Coast). Brisk aro- Vignobles Gonfrier 2018 Marquis de Bern (Bor­ 90 mas of wet stone, orange peel and melon 91 deaux). A blend of parcels goes into this rich, greet the nose on this widely available bottling. Avalon 2018 Pinot Noir (California). This full-bodied wine. Generous textures are still devel- There is a grippy texture to the sip, where soft rose- 89 warm and broad-textured wine soothes the oping while the spicy black fruit is full of young tan- petal, lemon peel, strawberry and Rainier cherry palate with soft tannins and ample ripe-plum and nins and bright acidity. Ripe and concentrated, the flavors align.Best Buy. —M.K. mulled-cherry flavors. It is full, mouthfilling and wine will likely be ready from 2021. Misa Imports. abv: 13% Price: $15 laced with subtle baking spices. Best Buy. —J.G. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 14% Price: $13

Cycles Gladiator 2018 Chardonnay (Califor­ 90 nia). This spicy, oaky and attractive wine Ironstone 2018 Petite Sirah (Lodi). Full that was aged 14 months on the lees carries vivid 89 ­bodied and firmly tannic, this wine is nicely aromas and flavors of ginger, nutmeg and toasted stuffed with blueberry and chocolate flavors and Bonterra NV Made with Organic Grapes nuts backed by ripe pears. It is full, mouthfilling and wrapped in a thick, clinging texture. Best Buy. —J.G. 90 Sauvignon Blanc (California). Well concen- has a good, lingering finish.Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 trated and lively in texture, this medium-bodied abv: 14.5% Price: $13 wine offers nice lemon and grapefruit aromas. These vivid citrus flavors carry to the palate, backed by snappy acidity. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $23/1.5 L

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BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Kirkland Signature 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Scotto Family Cellars 2019 Mohr-Fry Ranch 87 (Washington). Aromas of cherry, coffee, tire 89 Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). Charming and rela- rubber and herb lead to linear, sleek, coffee-­accented tively light bodied, this mineral- and dried herb- Dark Horse 2019 Rosé (California). This pit-fruit flavors that show pleasing balance. There’s driven wine blends citrus and thyme flavors in an 88 unabashedly fruity wine smells and tastes plenty of enjoyment to be had. Best Buy. —S.S. appetizing way. It’s easy and light for sipping by like just-picked grapes. It’s pure, focused and abv: 14.7% Price: $9 itself and with lunch or appetizers. Best Buy. —J.G. straightforward, offering excellent refreshment and abv: 13.6% Price: $13 a lively texture. Best Buy.—J.G. abv: 13% Price: $8

Avalon 2017 Red Blend (California). This is 86 a solid wine, with good dark-fruit flavors, Three Thieves 2019 Pinot Noir (California). a smooth, rich texture and a touch of tannin. Best 89 This firm-textured and lightly tannic wine SeaGlass 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Buy. —J.G. is a great value. It offers deep black-cherry and dried 88 Barbara County). Zesty aromas of Key abv: 13.5% Price: $11 plum flavors on a full body. Sweet baking spices and lime, lemongrass, apple blossom and a slight hint wood smoke in the aroma give way to a tighter, more of ­jalapeño show on the nose of this bottling. It’s chewy palate. Best Buy. —J.G. more ripe on the palate, with pear, apple and melon SPIRITS abv: 13.5% Price: $11 flavors, yet sansho pepper spice keeps the ripeness in check. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

González Byass Vermouth La Copa Extra Avalon 2018 Chardonnay (California). 96 Seco (Spain; González Byass, Chicago, IL). 88 Enticing baking-spice aromas and rich but- Made with fino Sherry, this pale-straw vermouth ter and pear flavors enhance this likeable, full-bod- CK Mondavi and Family 2019 Chardonnay greets with a mild, slightly herbaceous aroma. The ied wine. Its smooth texture makes it easy to sip. 87 (California). This soft, fruity, medium-­ palate shows golden raisin and ripe pear tinged with Best Buy. —J.G. bodied wine is nicely packed with peach, lemon and basil and sweet cinnamon, with mouthwatering abv: 13.5% Price: $11 apple flavors. It offers a smooth mouthfeel and a salinity on the finish. It’s delightful to sip straight— touch of butter on the finish.Best Buy. —J.G. especially when chilled—or mix into killer Martinis. abv: 13.4% Price: $7 abv: 17% Price: $25

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Stringer 2017 Harrison Clarke Vineyard Syrah SPIRITS BEERS 93 (Ballard Canyon). Roasted coffee, molasses and cassis flavors make for a rich and satisfying nose on this bottling by a Napa-based winemaker. The palate is rich with caramelized strawberry, blueberry and milk-chocolate flavors, yet there is an angular acidity that cuts through the depth. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $35

Cottonwood Canyon 2017 Syrah (Santa Maria 92 Valley). Ripe blackberry aromas meet with herbal tones of bay leaf as well as smoke, iodine and blood on the nose of this bottling. It’s taut on the palate, where blistered tomato and underripe blackberry flavors meet with pine needle and green peppercorns. —M.K. Mommenpop Vin D’Pampe Pamplemousse Weldwerks Juicy Bits India Pale Ale (Juicy/ abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 95 Vermouth (USA; Mommenpop, Napa, CA). 97 Hazy India Pale Ale; Weldwerks Brewing, CO). This highly quaffable vermouth blends Pinot Noir This is a mouthwatering IPA filled with a fresh com- Jeff Cohn 2017 So Serine Rockpile Vine­ rosé and grapefruit fortified with American brandy bination of sweet orange, pineapple, pear, underripe 92 yard Syrah (Rockpile). Brawny in tones of (also made with Pinot Noir). Look for a peachy hue mango, watermelon and berry. Still, there is a touch gamy meat, leather, blueberry and graham cracker, and flavors that suggest both grapefruit-peel bit- of bitterness that threads itself through the whole this wine is velvety on the palate. It offers a rich terness and grapefruit-flesh juiciness. It’s a joy to drinking experience, helping to keep the beer expe- and boldly ripe take on the variety from the high-­ drink, including in a Martini. rience at the forefront and not just a full-on glass elevation appellation. Rockpile’s rocky, volcano abv: 17% Price: $22/357 ml of juice. soils figure into the mix, contributing to an overall abv: 6.7% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack appeal of garrigue and crushed rock. —V.B. abv: 15.2% Price: $125

Doffo 2017 Syrah (Temecula Valley). Smoky 91 blackberry aromas meet with dried soil and a pinch of tarragon on the nose of this bottling. The palate is tightly wound and cut by judicious acidity, offering roasted black plum, blackberry, dried mint and, on the finish, a light vanilla tone. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $65

Epiphany 2017 Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah Orono Tubular India Pale Ale (Juicy/Hazy 91 (Napa Valley). A 100% varietal wine, this 93 India Pale Ale; Orono Brewing, ME). With can offers bold, structured layers of smoked meat, bacon Boissiere Extra Dry Vermouth (Italy; Palm artwork reminiscent of an 1980s Trapper Keeper, fat and black pepper. Weighty and powerful, it has 93 Bay International, Port Washington, NY). this forward-looking IPA is brewed with Citra, El been aged 20 months in French oak, 44% of it new. Brisk and drying, look for a pale straw hue and mild Dorado, Galaxy, and Topaz hops that create a host of —V.B. melon aroma coupled with a breezy whiff of mint. flavors and aromas that include peach, clementine, abv: 14.1% Price: $49 The palate offers fleeting honeydew, pear, elder- a little green onion and a snap of spice on an other- flower and lemon peel, finishing dry.Best Buy. wise juicy finish. Folded Hills 2017 Stolpman Vineyard Syrah abv: 18% Price: $9 abv: 7.2% Price: $16/16 oz 4 pack 91 (Ballard Canyon). Strongly dank aromas kick off the nose of this bottling, where peppercorns, bay leaf and tarragon elements lead the way. A kelpy tone consumed the palate, where the black- berry base is wrapped in roasted seaweed and damp herbs. —M.K. abv: 13.3% Price: $71

Frey 2019 Organic Syrah (California). Very 91 ripe-tasting and robust, this full-bodied wine is one of the best no-sulfites-added wines on the market. It layers subtle baking spices over jammy blackberry flavors that run deep in the rich, moder- Wormtown Be Hoppy India Pale Ale (Ameri­ ately tannic texture. Best Buy. —J.G. 92 can IPA; Wormtown Brewery, MA). A tra- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Boissiere Sweet Vermouth (Italy; Palm ditional West Coast IPA, but with hints of orange, 90 Bay International, Port Washington, NY). vanilla and a light topical note of underripe pine- Copain Wines 2016 Tous Ensemble Syrah Nutmeg, cinnamon and clove lead into a jammy apple mixed, as well as accents of pine and grape- 90 (Mendocino County). This is a ripe, rich blackberry palate and muddy cocoa fade accented fruit. Brewed with local malts and a touch of wheat, and smooth wine that coats the palate with deli- by black pepper. Mix into Manhattans or Negronis. this ale bridges the gap between the traditional and cious blackberry and baking-spice flavors. It’s full Best Buy. contemporary styles. abv: 18% Price: $9 abv: 6.5% Price: $13/16 oz 4 Pack

WINEMAG.COM | 25

BUYINGGUIDE bodied, moderately tannic and has a good, mouth- tart cranberry, rust, dried red flowers and an earthy, that cling to strong tannins and a bouncy acidity. filling texture. —J.G. gamy quality show on the nose of this bottling. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 There’s a zip of acidity and a hit of white pepper to abv: 14.9% Price: $36 the tip of the sip, which leads into flavors of pome- Comartin 2017 Tierra Alta Vineyard Syrah granate and rusty earth. —M.K. Koehler 2014 Reserve Grenache (Santa Ynez 88 (Ballard Canyon). Light hints of red currant abv: 12.7% Price: $35 90 Valley). Red cherries, mint, clove and rusty and white pepper meet with a bit of fennel frond earth aromas show on the nose of this bottling, which on the nose of this bottling. The tarry palate is a Betwixt 2017 Boer Vineyard Grenache is doing well for a Grenache with lots of age. Dried bit ­reductive, with coffee and black-pepper flavors 92 (Chalone).­ Dried cherry, pressed hibiscus strawberry, thyme and more rust appear on the sip, as well as tart yet dried fruit and flower elements. and light baking-spice aromas show on the nose where a flash of acidity shows on the finish. —M.K. —M.K. of this single-vineyard expression from one of the abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.4% Price: $49 few vineyards in this appellation. Hearty flavors of cranberry, sagebrush and baked soil show on the Cass 2018 Grenache (Paso Robles). Strong Pacific Redwood 2019 Organic Syrah (Cali­ sip. As with most Chalone wines, it is framed in a 89 hints of cola, dried cherry, leather, marjoram 88 fornia). This wine is intense, peppery and firm structure that takes time to mature, so drink and dried earth show on the nose of this bottling. tannic, offering tightly wound flavors of blackberry 2022–2042. Cellar Selection. —M.K. There’s a leathery streak to the palate, where the and dark chocolate in a firm texture. It has no added abv: 14.8% Price: $30 dried cherry and cola combo is prominent. —M.K. sulfites. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $44 abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Caliza 2017 Grenache (Paso Robles Willow 92 Creek District). Rich aromas of baked cherry, Marimar 2015 Don Miguel Vineyard Syrah star anise, potpourri and mace show on the hearty MOURVÈDRE 87 (Russian River Valley). An estate-grown, nose of this bottling. The tannins are strong on the organic wine from a cool, coastal site, this offers sip, carrying lush flavors of baked plum,boysenberry ­ Cass 2017 Damas Noir Estate Grown Mourvè­ earthy elements of iron, crushed rock and meat. and loamy earth. —M.K. 93 dre (Paso ­Robles Geneseo District). For full Orange and red fruit brighten and complement. abv: 15% Price: $65 review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $90 abv: 13.5% Price: $53 MCV 2018 Grenache (Paso Robles). Deep 92 and dark aromas of cherry, sweet smoke Clementine Carter 2018 Mourvèdre (Santa and roasted meats show on the robust nose of this 93 Barbara County). There are sanguine hints GRENACHE bottling. Powerful flavors of boysenberry, roasted of rust alongside bursting raspberry, tight hibiscus, cherry and smoked meat show on the sip, where a clean pomegranate and a pinch of dried herbs on Scar of the Sea 2019 Hofer Vineyard rocky texture holds the ripeness together. —M.K. the nose of this bottling. The palate is bright and 95 ­Grenache (Cucamonga Valley). From a dry- abv: 16% Price: $45 focused, combining candied strawberry and melon farmed vineyard that was planted in the 1930s, this flavors with tobacco leaf and pepper spice. —M.K. bottling reminds of a walk through the late summer Sol Rouge 2016 Grenache (Red Hills). Beau- abv: 15.1% Price: $48 chaparral, full of sage, baked earth and crumpled 92 tiful cedar and sage aromas lead to rich, laurel. There are also aromas of olive and elderberry generous plum and baking-spice flavors in this full- Paix Sur Terre 2018 The Other One Glenrose on the nose, and flavors of raspberry and red cur- bodied and moderately tannic wine. It’s broad and 92 Vineyard Mourvèdre (Adelaida District). rant on the palate, but it’s the gray sage that coats mouthfilling and offers very enticing fruit and oak Smashed boysenberry, baking-spice and cracked everything. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. expressions. —J.G. peppercorn aromas converge for a vibrant nose on abv: 14% Price: $32 abv: 14.4% Price: $39 this single-vineyard expression. There is plenty of pepper spice on the palate, along with black rasp- Babcock 2017 Opportunity Knocks Spanish Comartin 2017 Tierra Alta Vineyard Grenache berry, lavender and a slightly nutty tone of cashew 94 Springs Vineyard Grenache (San Luis Obispo 91 (Ballard Canyon). Dark and deep aromas of brittle. —M.K. County). Here’s an interesting combination: veteran­ black cherry, sarsaparilla, baked earth and crushed abv: 14.9% Price: $55 Santa Barbara winemaker takes Grenache from rocks show on the nose of this bottling. It’s a hearty an extremely coastal vineyard and creates a Paso display of Grenache, offering roasted cherry and Lava Cap NV Mourvèdre (El Dorado). For full ­Robles-style Grenache. That’s the wonder of this berry flavors as well as cola and cracked pepper 91 review see page 17. wine, which begins with hearty kirsch and cinna- spices. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $32 mon roll aromas and then excites the palate with abv: 14.4% Price: $49 thick black-cherry, licorice and star anise flavors. Strong acidity and firm tannins hold the power La Marea 2017 Grenache (Central Coast). PETITE SIRAH package in check. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 91 Light in the glass and almost rusty in color, abv: 15.8% Price: $60 this bottling begins with aromas of dried cherry Lava Cap 2017 Reserve Petite Sirah juice, chaparral spice and toasted sage. Lightly bod- 93 (El­ Dorado). For full review see page 9. Cel- Folded Hills 2018 Cluster Grenache (Santa ied on the palate, it’s an herbal display, showing lar Selection. 94 Ynez Valley). This whole-cluster carbonic thyme, sagebrush and toasted nuts, with touches of abv: 15.4% Price: $32 style offers more depth than most carbonic wines. rosewater and red currant. —M.K. Bright and snappy aromas of red plum, crumpled abv: 13% Price: $30 V. Sattui 2017 Petite Sirah (North Coast). rose, light mint and cola lead into a palate that’s 93 Rich, ripe and mouthfilling, this impressive, both playful in red fruit but layered in tarragon, Clos La Chance 2017 Reserve Grenache full-bodied wine overflows with blackberry and carnation and licorice spice. The grippy tannins 90 (Santa Clara Valley). Concentrated aromas cooked blueberry flavors that are laced with gen- further set it apart. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. of red cherry, clove and sharp mace make for a pow- erous vanilla, chocolate and mint accents. Infused abv: 14.5% Price: $34 erful nose on this reserve bottling. It’s also strong with fine-grained tannins, it will age nicely through on the palate, with black-cherry and nutmeg flavors at least 2030. Cellar Selection. —J.G. Joyce 2018 Small Lot Collection by Russell abv: 13% Price: $46 93 Joyce Grenache (Central Coast). Raspberry,

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 MCV 2018 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). Hearty Donnachadh 2017 Hillside Heritage Vines 92 aromas of violets and acai are powerful but PINOT NOIR 95 ­Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review not overblown on the nose of this bottling. It’s a big, see page 4. brawny wine on the palate, with cassis and more FEL 2018 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 13.1% Price: $52 acai at the core, yet sprinkled with lavender and 96 (Anderson Valley). Aromatic but also nervy white pepper, proving complex while rich. —M.K. and restrained at first sip, this tightly wound wine Donum 2017 Year of the Rooster Mikado abv: 14.9% Price: $36 has a classic profile of brisk acidity and fine-grained 95 Tree Single Vineyard Pinot Noir (­Carneros). tannins to support vivid and concentrated rhubarb, For full review see page 4. Le Casque 2017 Petite Sirah (Sierra Foothills). red cherry and oolong-tea flavors. It is built to age abv: 14.9% Price: $100 91 Bold but polished, this wine has a big struc- gracefully. Best after 2025.Cellar Selection. —J.G. ture of tannins and body filled with nicely ripe but abv: 13.8% Price: $65 Gary Farrell 2017 Hallberg Vineyard Pinot not jammy fruit flavors and accented by cocoa and 95 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review mint. It is concentrated, layered and deep. Best after FEL 2018 Wendling Vineyard Pinot Noir see page 4. 2023. —J.G. 96 (Anderson­ Valley). This is a delicious, deep abv: 13.8% Price: $55 abv: 14.2% Price: $30 and brooding wine that holds back just a bit on ripe- ness and spiciness to bring attention to black fruits, Holdredge 2018 Saralee’s Vineyard Pinot Matchbook 2018 Estate Bottled Petite Sirah black tea and forest-floor nuances. An elegant tex- 95 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review 91 (Dunnigan Hills). For full review see page 17. ture of fine-grained tannins and nervy acidity give see page 5. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 it a rare balance. Best through at least 2028. Cellar abv: 14.2% Price: $54 Selection. —J.G. Opolo 2017 Reserve Collection Petite Sirah abv: 14.5% Price: $65 Sea Smoke 2017 Ten Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita 91 (Paso Robles). Roasted black-currant and 95 Hills). Candied cherry and darker berry aro- blueberry-jam aromas meet with caramel and vanilla Melville 2018 Block M Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita mas meet with star anise, crumple purple flowers on the nose of this bottling. Polished tannins and 96 Hills). Light in the glass, this herb-forward and crushed slate on the intoxicating nose of this ample acidity frame the purple-flower, oak-spice, bottling begins with aromas of bay leaf, green pep- bottling from the estate biodynamically farmed chai and black-currant flavors. —M.K. percorn, cracked pepper and wet forest, set against monopole vineyard. Intense acidity and lavish tan- abv: 14.8% Price: $40 the brisk raspberry core. The palate snaps with nins make for a simultaneously bright and rich underripe raspberry and bramble, veering into the expression on the palate, where black cherry and San Simeon 2017 Estate Reserve Petite Sirah herbal tea tones throughout the sip for a refreshing black raspberry are lofted by cardamom and mace. 91 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 17. and complex experience. —M.K. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $30 abv: 13.7% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $82

Wood Family Vineyards 2017 Casa de Viñas Blue Farm 2017 1861 Vineyard Estate Farmed Storm 2017 Duvarita Vineyard Pinot Noir 91 ­Petite Sirah (Livermore Valley). ­Concentrated, 95 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Valley). With plenty of 95 (Santa Barbara County). There’s a dark and full bodied and firmly tannic, this wine neverthe- influence from the San Pablo Bay at 1,000-feet- ripe sense of boysenberry jam on the nose of this less is gentle enough to release wonderful black- elevation, this site contributes high-toned acidity bottling from a unique vineyard that sits west of berry, raspberry and black-pepper flavors that coat to the wine as well as a persistence of savory for- the Sta. Rita Hills, yet there is also a mineral streak the taste buds and linger nicely on the finish. Best est floor, allspice and white pepper. With substan- of slate and a zesty citrus element. The palate is through 2027. —J.G. tial weight and concentration, it unwinds slowly in invigoratingly grippy, offering cherry, mulberry and abv: 14.5% Price: $30 the glass, offering crunchy red fruit along the way. star anise flavors that are sliced through with bright —V.B. acidity. —M.K. Dunning Vineyards 2017 Reserve Petite abv: 14.5% Price: $95 abv: 13.3% Price: $55 90 Sirah (Paso Robles Willow Creek District). Meaty aromas of tar and char converge with black Blue Farm 2017 King Ridge Vineyard Estate Babcock 2018 Ocean’s Ghost Estate Pinot currant and violet on the nose of this bottling. The 95 Farmed Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). For 94 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This estate bottling, palate zips with acidity into the charcoal grilled full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. which is based on Bryan Babcock’s “Individual Vine lamb and bloody beef flavors, with hints of violet abv: 14.8% Price: $85 Architecture” system, begins with a tightly pack- throughout. —M.K. aged nose, full of cherry, toast, light cardamom and abv: 15% Price: $45 Cobb 2017 Rice-Spivak Vineyard Pinot Noir black pepper. The palate combines raspberry with 95 (Sonoma Coast). Pungent compostable sandalwood, pepper spice and warm brioche, all Ironstone 2018 Petite Sirah (Lodi). For full earth and forest pine form a foundation of savory riding a sprightly acidity. —M.K. 89 review see page 23. Best Buy. sensation across the palate of this lively vineyard- abv: 13.5% Price: $70 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 designate, brightly intertwined in pomegranate and rhubarb. Grippy and spicy in both baking and Asian Babcock 2018 Opposites Attract Peake Frey 2018 Biodynamic Petite Sirah (Mendo­ spice, it impresses across a lengthy finish. —V.B. 94 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Brisk 87 cino). This attractive and relatively smooth abv: 13.3% Price: $75 aromas of black raspberry, intense lavender and wine is full bodied, moderately tannic and offers concentrated rose petals are tightly woven on the plenty of chocolate and blueberry flavors. It’s a bit Copain Wines 2017 Les Voisins Pinot Noir nose of this single-vineyard expression. The palate light for the famously big varietal. —J.G. 95 (Anderson Valley). This elegant, superbly is also taut and floral with more lavender and rose abv: 13.3% Price: $20 balanced wine offers tempting, just-ripe fruit flavors as well as wild mint and intense boysenberry-jam on a medium to full body, and has a lively, slightly flavors. —M.K. Frey 2018 Organic Petite Sirah (Mendocino). grippy mouthfeel that showcases the vivid red- abv: 14% Price: $70 86 Tight and compact, this medium-bodied and black-cherry flavors and subtle baking-spice wine offers potent blackberry and blueberry flavors ­accents. Best through 2027. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. Belle Glos 2018 Clark & Telephone Pinot Noir tinged with iron and earth. It is firmly tannic and abv: 13.2% Price: $42 94 (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see somewhat tangy in texture. —J.G. page 5. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 14.7% Price: $55

WINEMAG.COM | 27

BUYINGGUIDE

Cobb 2017 Coastlands Vineyard Old Firs that slices through, and the pinch of white pepper Sanford 2016 Founders’ Vines Single Block 94 Block Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Made adds complexity. —M.K. 94 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For from older vines within the famous estate site, this abv: 13.9% Price: $64 full review see page 7. Cellar Selection­ . resplendent wine offers fresh strawberry, blueberry abv: 13% Price: $120 and perfumed rose—bursts that are underscored by FEL 2018 Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir (Ander­ linear, focused acidity. Tasting of the woods, with 94 son Valley). This lovely, fragrant wine is Scar of the Sea 2018 Seven Leagues Pinot a crunch to the texture, it finishes in a refreshing abundantly fruity and subtly spicy, blending ripe 94 Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Light in the glass, tease of orange peel. —V.B. strawberry and red-cherry flavors with absolutely this appellation blend starts with inviting aromas abv: 12.1% Price: $80 tempting cinnamon, clove and cedar spices. It has of crisp cherry, hibiscus and raspberry, with hints a generous, mouthfilling texture lifted by a touch of of anise and fennel pollen on the nose. The palate Cobb 2017 Diane Cobb Coastlands Pinot Noir tannin and fresh acidity. —J.G. snaps with cranberry skin and chaparral spices, 94 (Sonoma Coast). Named to honor one of the abv: 13.8% Price: $70 leading into more rounded cherry flavors in the mid- vineyard’s visionary founders, Diane Cobb comes palate, as clean acidity pushes through the finish. from a 1.5-acre block of the site. Leathery, earthy Gary Farrell 2017 Martaella Vineyard Pinot —M.K. and grippy, it has a wealth of tangy red-fruit and flo- 94 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review abv: 13.2% Price: $46 ral aromatics, the core tightly structured and youth- see page 6. ful, with fresh, high-toned acidity. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $65 Storm 2017 Donnachadh Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 13% Price: $120 94 (Sta. Rita Hills). This new estate project is Holdredge 2018 Petits Cadeaux Pinot Noir extremely promising, as evidenced in the nose of this Cobb 2017 Doc’s Ranch Swan and Calera 94 (Russian River Valley). For full review see bottling, which shows bay leaf, peppercorn, blood, 94 Selection Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Juicy page 6. iodine and mulberry on the nose. The palate is savory red fruit invites one into an exuberantly perfumed abv: 14.8% Price: $54 with peppercorns, crushed marjoram and oregano explosion of grip, earth and black tea. With youth- set against underripe raspberry and lavender. —M.K. ful tannin and focused structure, it unwinds slowly Joyce 2018 Tondre Grapefield Pinot Noir abv: 13% Price: $55 in the glass, unfurling further flavors of exotic spice 94 (Santa Lucia Highlands). This bottling is and mineral. —V.B. great evidence of how the traditionally rich Santa Storm 2017 John Sebastiano Vineyard Pinot abv: 12.3% Price: $80 Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir can be done in a l­ighter 94 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Wondrously stemmy style. Aromas of crystallized raspberry, Alpine aromas of cracked peppercorns, seaweed and salted Copain Wines 2017 Abel Pinot Noir (Anderson strawberry and a pinch of tarragon roll into a palate meats combine with black raspberry on the nose of 94 Valley). Opulent and spicy, this medium- loaded with berry sorbet, singed strawberry, green this bottling. The nori wrap flavors continue on the bodied wine shows tempting dark spices of clove cardamom and bay leaf on the acid-washed finish. sip, where dank forest-floor moss meets with cran- and toasted oak along with ripe black-cherry fla- Editors’ Choice. —M.K. berry and orange-rind elements. —M.K. vors and a velvety texture. A good structure of abv: 13.8% Price: $45 abv: 12.7% Price: $55 fine-grained tannins adds an appetizing grip. Best through 2027. Cellar Selection. —J.G. Lynmar Estate 2018 Old Vines Pinot Noir Storm 2017 Presqu’ile Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 12.6% Price: $65 94 (Russian River Valley). From an aptly named 94 (Santa Maria Valley). Dark mulberry and section of the estate’s Quail Hill Vineyard, this wine blistered tomato flavors meet with cracked pepper­ Domaine Della 2018 Earl Stephens Pinot Noir is intensely focused and textured, exuding brooding corn, bay leaf and eucalyptus tea on the nose of 94 (Russian River Valley). A warm, rich depth of notes of plum, wild strawberry, black tea and clove. this bottling from an extremely chilly vineyard. wild strawberry, black cherry, cinnamon and vanilla The oak and tannin are well behaved, accentuating There’s a lot of herbal zest to the palate, where tea wrap around a soft, layered and lengthy expression a duality of dust and grip. —V.B. and tomato-leaf­ flavors converge with green carda- of the variety, offering length and breadth in addi- abv: 14.2% Price: $82 mom, Kalamata olive and brisk, underripe raspberry. tion to enduring earthiness. Cardamom and black —M.K. tea accent the finish contrasted by a twist of tan- Melville 2018 Anna’s Block Pinot Noir (Sta. abv: 12.5% Price: $55 gerine. —V.B. 94 Rita Hills). Candied Bing cherry aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $78 meet with savory stemmy aromas of damp under- Babcock 2018 Deja Vu Bentrock Vineyard brush, forest floor and cannabis-like funk. The pal- 93 ­Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Dried cherry, Domaine Della 2018 Four Amours Pinot Noir ate is complex with blistered cherry tomato, ­slivered turned earth, carnation and hibiscus aromas meet 94 (Sonoma Coast). A four-barrel blend of the strawberry, minty tarragon and bay leaf flavors. with savory hints of soy and leather on the nose of this vintage, this small-production specialty offering —M.K. bottling. Black-cherry, mulberry and ­elderberry-jam opens in a wealth of high-toned red fruit and cit- abv: 13.5% Price: $60 flavors meet with dried purple ­flowers and a hint of rus. From the bright start it develops velvety rich- char in this darkly styled wine. —M.K. ness and savory character on the palate, bursting in Melville 2018 Sandy’s Block Pinot Noir (Sta. abv: 14.1% Price: $70 black tea, clove, compost and white pepper. —V.B. 94 Rita Hills). Tangy aromas of raspberry and abv: 14.5% Price: $150 rose petal meet with dried sage and tarragon on the Benziger 2018 De Coelo Quintus Pinot Noir nose of this block-designated bottling. Brisk rasp- 93 (Sonoma Coast). Woody, forested and Donum 2017 Year of the Rooster West Slope berry flavors are lifted by bay leaf and eucalyptus crunchy in red fruit, this coastal wine has bright, 94 Single Vineyard Pinot Noir (C­arneros). For sap on the zesty palate. —M.K. nervy energy and acidity. A pop of orange peel bal- full review see page 6. abv: 14.1% Price: $50 ances out the savory nature of its tannins and oak, abv: 14.9% Price: $125 as well as exotic spice. —V.B. Sanford 2016 Block 5 Single Block Estate abv: 14.1% Price: $69 Eden Rift 2018 Terraces Pinot Noir (Cienega 94 Grown Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full 94 Valley). Bright and fresh aromas of pome- review see page 7. Cobb 2017 Doc’s Ranch Pommard and 114 granate and zesty raspberry are warmed up by abv: 13.5% Price: $90 93 ­Selection Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a star anise and nutmeg on the nose of this bottling. site that neighbors Coastlands, in the foggy moors There are ripe red-fruit flavors on the palate yet above Occidental, this wine is unabashedly earthy there is a persistently energetic and bright acidity and ethereal. Tasting lightly of red fruit, orange

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 peel and tea, it has a lingering persistence of sea Flying Goat Cellars 2016 Dijon Clone Rio Vista Ernst Storm. There’s a vibrant explosion on the pal- air, ­almost as if fog had been captured in the bottle. 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Deep ate of black-raspberry sorbet, decorated by pinches —V.B. and dark boysenberry aromas meet with purple of thyme and sagebrush. —M.K. abv: 13.2% Price: $80 flowers, hints of herb and toast on the nose of this abv: 13% Price: $40 bottling. It’s hearty on the palate, with black rasp- Cobb 2017 Emmaline Ann Pinot Noir (Sonoma berry, more boysenberry, black cardamom as well as Stringer 2018 Shokrian Vineyard Pinot Noir 93 Coast). Textured and earthy, with a firmness licorice flavors. —M.K. 93 (Santa Barbara County). Ripe and easily of tannin, this youthful wine is high toned and full abv: 14.7% Price: $50 accessible aromas of black cherry, star anise and of energy. Layers of crunchy pomegranate, rhubarb cardamom draw the nose into this bottling from a and black tea mingle and meld across the palate, Fort Ross Vineyard 2017 Stagecoach Road vineyard near Los Alamos. The big fruit flavors blow seasoned in cardamom and white pepper. —V.B. 93 Fort Ross Vineyard Pinot Noir (Fort Ross- up on the palate too, with cherry, hibiscus, vanilla abv: 12.4% Price: $75 Seaview). From a selection of Calera grapes grown and oak toast, yet a firm tannic texture and plenty of on the extreme coast, this wine offers spice, wax and acidity maintain balance. —M.K. Cobb 2017 Wendling Vineyard Pinot Noir edgy acidity. Pomegranate, tangerine, cherry and abv: 14% Price: $35 93 (Anderson­ Valley). Beautifully focused mint flavors follow along a structured, complex and black-fruit and subtle dark spice aromas give way to lengthy palate of balanced tannin and oak, finishing Talbott 2017 Sarah Case Sleepy Hollow Vine­ rich but not heavy black cherry, black tea and forest in lasting earthiness. —V.B. 93 yard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia floor on the palate in this dazzling medium- to full- abv: 13.8% Price: $80 Highlands). For full review see page 11. bodied wine. Light tannins and good acidity set it abv: 14.4% Price: $75 up for drinking now through 2027. —J.G. Gainey 2018 Limited Selection Pinot Noir abv: 13.6% Price: $75 93 (Sta. Rita Hills). Dark and deep aromas of Tondré 2018 Tondre Grapefield Pinot Noir boysenberry and tarragon are framed by salty hints 93 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Sandalwood aro- Copain Wines 2017 Edmeades Pinot Noir of oak on the nose of this bottling. It’s a bold and mas wrap around the strawberry, light orange-rind 93 (Anderson­ Valley). This flavorful and well- standout style on the palate, where the boysenberry and anise touches on the nose of this complex bot- balanced wine offers generous strawberry and cherry elements are dusted in licorice and cling to a taut tling. There’s a baking-spice kick to the front of the flavors, a broad mouthfeel and just a touch of tannin structure and penetrating acidity. —M.K. palate, while green peppercorn, hibiscus, rooibos for texture. It’s full bodied, moderately spicy and abv: 14.1% Price: $60 tea and fruit-punch flavors lead into a tangy red- quite expressive overall. Best through 2027. —J.G. plum finish. —M.K. abv: 13.1% Price: $60 Keller Estate 2018 El Coro Pinot Noir (Peta­ abv: 14.3% Price: $40 93 luma Gap). For full review see page 9. Domaine Della 2018 Pinot Noir (Russian abv: 14.2% Price: $64 Toretti 2017 Valentino Pinot Noir (Santa 93 River Valley). Earthy rhubarb, black tea and 93 Maria­ Valley). Mellow aromas of nutmeg, cola combine effortlessly with a dense richness of Keller Estate 2018 La Cruz Vineyard Pinot sour black cherry and black cardamom kick off the wild strawberry in this full-bodied, well-structured 93 Noir (Petaluma Gap). Smoothly textured nose of this bottling from a longtime Santa Maria- and memorable wine. Bright acidity keeps it fresh with flecks of allspice, chamomile tea and forest residing family. Very firm tannins frame the sip, and crisp in the glass as a long finish of additional notes, this medium-bodied red is crisp in acidity where rich black-cherry flavors meet with nutmeg baking spice lingers. —V.B. and crunchy pomegranate, strawberry and a lasting and vanilla. Drink 2021–2037. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 tease of mint. —V.B. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $55 abv: 14.5% Price: $49 Domaine Della 2018 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia 93 Highlands). Subtly elegant violet, lavender MacRostie 2018 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Babcock 2018 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). and rose petal aromas meet with a black-raspberry 93 Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Comforting aro- 92 Light in the glass, this bottling offers loads sorbet and hint of wood on the nose of this appel- mas of black cherry and baking spices are warm and of heady sage, wild thyme and dried flower aromas, lation blend. The floral tones of the palate surround inviting on the nose of this bottling, which is quite with dried cherry and subtle beef-jerky tones in the dark-berry, earthy mushroom and wild mint flavors light in the glass. The palate is fresh and fruity with backdrop. The taut structure delivers brisk cherry atop a taut texture that holds through the finish. cherry juice, vanilla and light nutmeg flavors, bring- and muddled red-plum flavors as well as wood spice —M.K. ing plenty of spice to the nimble structure. —M.K. and a pinch of herbs. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14.2% Price: $58 abv: NA Price: $35

Domaine Della 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Papapietro Perry 2017 Charles Vineyard Babcock 2018 Radical Radian Vineyard Pinot 93 Coast). Crisp red fruit, citrus and blueberry 93 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review 92 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Concentrated aromas brighten a core of biting acidity in this coastal appel- see page 10. of dark-red cherry and mulberry are lifted by spicy lation wine, impressive in texture and length. Coated abv: 13.2% Price: $60 clove on the nose of this single-vineyard expression. in cinnamon, nutmeg and black tea, it ­offers the best Black cherry, cola, hibiscus extract and clove make of the variety’s fruit and savory components. —V.B. Piro 2017 Runway Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa for big flavors on the palate, yet there is a buoyant abv: 14.5% Price: $65 93 Maria Valley). Dried cranberry and cherry acidity that drives into the finish. —M.K. meet with a rusty minerality on the nose of this abv: 13.5% Price: $70 Domaine Della 2018 Soberanes Vineyard bottling, from a newer vineyard adjacent to Bien 93 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Dark Nacido. The hearty palate combines rich wild cher- Benziger 2018 De Coelo Arbore Sacra Pinot cranberry, light pomegranate, turned earth and a ries with sage, orange-rind and roast pork flavors. 92 Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a site five miles hint of mace aromas show on the dynamic nose of —M.K. from the ocean, this wine is high toned, tart and this single-vineyard expression. Ripe cherry and abv: 13.6% Price: $44 tangy. The acidity threads throughout a soft middle mulberry flavors pop on the ripe sip, yet there are of layered spicy black cherry, raspberry and crunchy spicy touches of mace and herbal tons of tarragon Storm 2018 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara pomegranate. —V.B. and rosemary to round it out. —M.K. 93 County).­ Raspberry, hibiscus and carna- abv: 14.1% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $78 tion make for a zesty, tart and floral nose on this countywide blend by South African winemaker

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BUYINGGUIDE

Copain Wines 2017 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Sanford 2016 Dominio del Falcon Single Donum 2017 Estate Pinot Noir (Carneros). 92 (Anderson Valley). This relatively light- 92 Block Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita 91 Thick and viscous in brawny, concentrated bodied wine is broad and delicious, layering bak- Hills). For full review see page 14. flavors of baked strawberry, savory earth and an ing spices like cinnamon, vanilla and clove over abv: 14% Price: $90 intensity of caramel, this is a well-structured, full- considerable black-cherry flavors. It highlights the bodied and robustly ripe wine from the winery Anderson ­Valley’s fresh fruitiness and supple tex- Sanford 2017 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sta. ­estate. Black tea, compost and rhubarb furl around ture. —J.G. 92 Rita Hills). For full review see page 14. Edi- its edges. —V.B. abv: 12.6% Price: $65 tors’ Choice. abv: 14.8% Price: $80 abv: 13.5% Price: $48 Eden Rift 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Cienega Donum 2017 Estate Pinot Noir (Russian River 92 Valley). Clean lines of plump black rasp- Tongue Dancer 2017 The Sly One Pinot Noir 91 Valley). A wealth of juicy black fruit, forest berry, pastry crust and tarragon make for a deli- 92 (Sonoma Coast). This tiny-production wine floor and tea comes to the fore of this bold, ripe cious nose on this estate bottling. Snappy raspberry is made from one barrel from Van Der Kamp Vine- wine, thickly concentrated and solidly built with flavors kick off the sip, where lilac, wild mint and yard and another from Placida, aged 29 months in structure. The tannins grip the palate and empha- dried herbs prove both fresh and delicate. —M.K. French oak. Thick and extracted blue fruit, clove size the overall intensity, as toasted oak and flecks abv: 13.8% Price: $48 and earthy allspice combine around an expanse of of cola accent the lengthy finish. —V.B. velvety texture and tannin. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $85 Eden Rift 2018 Valliant Pinot Noir (Central abv: 14.3% Price: $59 92 Coast). This affordable series from the Eden Donum 2017 White Barn Pinot Noir (C­arneros). Rift team offers great value with the same level of Walt 2018 The Corners Pinot Noir (Anderson 91 Warm baking spice and clove season an ele- winemaking. Tight aromas of boysenberry, wet clay, 92 Valley). Almost-sweet flavors of butter and gant core of refined tannin and silky blackberry and dried flowers and a hint of pepper lead into a hearty butterscotch complement plenty of ripe straw- cherry in this lighter style wine. A grip of tannin palate of rich dark fruit, black licorice and violet. A berry and black-plum notes in this full-bodied and adds weight and complexity as toasty oak integrates chalky tension rises on the finish.Editors’ Choice. very smooth-textured wine. It’s generous, ripe and with the fruit. —V.B. —M.K. delicious. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $125 abv: 14.2% Price: $25 abv: 15.2% Price: $75 Gainey 2018 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This Flying Goat Cellars 2016 Rancho Santa Rosa YNOT 2017 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara 91 entry-level bottling from the historic win- 92 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). There’s 92 County). Mulberry, macerated wild cherry, ery is always a solid choice for everyday sipping, a powerful amount of clove and nutmeg on the nose cherry pit and dusty garam masala spices show on starting with aromas of dark hibiscus, wild berry, of this bottling, which presents plenty of baked the nose of this bottling, Norm Yost’s affordable sumac and spicy cinnamon. The herbal palate offers cherry and licorice aromas as well. The ripe red- appellation blend. There’s a black-plum tang to the bay leaf and dried sagebrush against a core of black currant and plum core of the palate gets a dose of sip, where cardamom and curry spices decorate the plum and tart cranberry. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. that spice rack too, with mace and star anise finish- roasted tomato and black-cherry flavors.Editors’ abv: 14.2% Price: $30 ing the job. —M.K. Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $48 abv: 14.23% Price: $28 Holman Ranch 2015 Jarman Pinot Noir (­Carmel 91 Valley). Black-cherry, ripe berry, star anise Hartford Court 2017 Pinot Noir (Marin County).­ Albatross Ridge 2018 Cuvée Vivienne Pinot and light licorice aromas show on the nose of this 92 Wild in forest floor, with a velvety texture, 91 Noir (Monterey). Seared pork and muddled bottling. It’s quite thick on the palate, where rich this coastal wine shows elegant layers of plum, wild mulberry aromas make for a distinctive entry to the blackberry and black-cherry flavors are lifted by strawberry and black tea. Additional savory compo- nose of this bottling, from one of the most stunning tarragon and anise seed. —M.K. nents of clove and cardamom contribute sizzle to its mountaintop vineyards in the state. Tangy raspberry­ abv: 14.2% Price: $80 exotic, ethereal nature. —V.B. and tart plum flavors play with wild thyme and abv: 13.6% Price: $70 lightly dusty elements on the palate. —M.K. Kings Mountain 2016 Clone 13 Pinot Noir (S­anta abv: 13% Price: $45 91 Cruz Mountains). There’s a strong amount of Holman Ranch 2017 Three Brothers Pinot oak on the nose of this bottling, which shows bold 92 Noir (Carmel Valley). Warm aromas of baked Alma Rosa 2017 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). cola, cinnamon-roll and brown-spice notes against red cherry and vanilla meet with wet stone and 91 Tangy aromas of red plums, sumac and sour a dark-cherry core. There’s a bright strawberry tone damp earth on the complex nose of this bottling, cherry peels kick off the nose of this appellation to the palate, where sandalwood and more wood- whose 20% new French oak treatment does shine blend. There’s a tartness to the red-plum-skin and spice flavors add character. —M.K. through. There’s a hickory-smoke touch to the pal- sour cherry flavors that also show on the sip, but abv: 13.5% Price: $65 ate, where cherry, strawberry, vanilla and star anise they are warmed by nutmeg and mace spices. —M.K. spices make for a delicious sip. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $45 Sanford 2016 Vista al Rio Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita abv: 13.5% Price: $35 91 Hills). Dark boysenberry, leather, wood, light Betwixt 2017 Lester Family Vineyard Pinot herb, cinnamon and nutmeg aromas make for a very Melville 2018 Indigene Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita 91 Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Very light in suave and complex nose on this bottling. Black- 92 Hills). Brisk black raspberry, crumpled red the glass, this wine begins with tart pomegranate raspberry, crumbled hibiscus and turned earth flowers and hint of grape seed show on the nose of and pine-needle aromas on the nose. There’s a great ­flavors show on the palate. —M.K. this bottling. There are plenty of herbs on the pal- snap to the palate, where tangy raspberry flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $90 ate, from thyme to coriander seed and green pep- are spiced by white pepper and dried rose petals. percorn, set against a brisk raspberry background. —M.K. Sanford 2015 Block 6 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $45 91 Hills). Stewed cherries, leather, salt and abv: 14.2% Price: $50 earth tones are starting to show some extraction Bogle 2017 Pinot Noir (California). For full and age on the nose of this bottling, but it’s hold- 91 review see page 22. Best Buy. ing up rather well. Strawberry, plum and cranberry abv: 14.5% Price: $12

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 flavors on the palate meet with cardamom and dried season dark brooding fruit with plenty of viscosity. with rose-petal flavors in the midpalate, and then mint. —M.K. —V.B. there’s a kick of vanilla on the finish. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $90 abv: 14.5% Price: $54 abv: 14.1% Price: $40

Stasis 2017 Murmur Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa­ Kendric 2017 Proprietor Grown Pinot Noir Dunstan 2017 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir 91 Maria Valley). Baked black-cherry, black- 90 (Petaluma Gap-Marin County). A rich coat- 88 (Sonoma­ Coast). Savory in tea and forest, currant and licorice aromas make for a fairly ripe ing of spices like clove, cedar and vanilla comple- this wine offers bold, bombastic tannin weight and expression from this cool-climate vineyard. It’s a ments good black-cherry flavors in this medium- to intensity alongside subdued dark fruit. —V.B. boisterous wine on the palate, with ripe boysen- full-bodied wine. It is very flavorful, putting the oak abv: 14.2% Price: $60 berry and mulberry flavors lifted by hints of roasted spices front and center. —J.G. fennel and cracked pepper. —M.K. abv: 13.3% Price: $38 Minus Tide 2017 Mariah Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 13.9% Price: $42 88 (Mendocino Ridge). Distinctive floral and Red Car 2017 Heaven and Earth Pinot Noir rosemary aromas dress up this medium-bodied and Stolo 2018 Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo C­ounty). 90 (Sonoma Coast). Cool climate in style and soft-textured wine, making it fragrant and likeable 91 Quite light in the glass, this bottling offers ripeness, this balanced red is fruity and savory, with but atypical, offering light and herbaceous-leaning wild aromas of rust, tarry earth, mossy forest floor a nice arrangement between crunchy pomegranate, fruit flavors underneath. —J.G. and crisp raspberry. There’s a strong wood-spice cherry and strawberry alongside cardamom and abv: 13.5% Price: $42 streak across the palate, where toasted cedar and black tea. Light bodied, it retains acidity through a sandalwood flavors surround the black-plum and lengthy finish. —V.B. Verraco Ridge 2018 Pinot Noir (Monterey white-pepper flavors. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $75 88 County). Dried cherry and cranberry aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $46 mas meet with red spice and light smoke on the Trombetta 2017 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). nose of this bottling. There is a freshness to the sip, Stressed Vines 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 90 Earthy funk and back tea lead to a velvety with flavors of hibiscus and tart raspberry, making 91 Coast). Juicy black cherry and strawberry smooth core of cherry cola in this brooding, medium- for a lively sip. —M.K. highlight a thick, concentrated center of balanced bodied wine, Crisp acidity boosts its inherent rich- abv: 13.7% Price: $15 tannin and integrated oak in this well-made wine. ness and denser tendencies. —V.B. Forested spice accents and enlivens the fruit. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $45 Bota Box 2018 Nighthawk Lush Pinot Noir abv: 14.3% Price: $65 87 (California). Seductive baking-spice aromas Avalon 2018 Pinot Noir (California). For full and rich, seemingly sweet cherry-pie flavors make Talisman 2016 Gunsalus Vineyard Pinot Noir 89 review see page 23. Best Buy. this full-bodied wine instantly attractive. It is gen- 91 (Russian River Valley). Rich and rewarding, abv: 13.5% Price: $11 erously laced with cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla. this is a hearty, full-bodied and immensely opu- Best Buy. —J.G. lent wine, velvety in texture with plenty of length. Blair 2016 Delfina’s Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $23/3 L Blueberry and dark cherry fruit complement an 89 (Arroyo­ Seco). Baked red-cherry, clove, star ­unshakeable core of forest floor and spicy cardamom. anise and cinnamon aromas make for a ripe expres- Ocnautic 2018 Pinot Noir (Monterey County). —V.B. sion on this bottling, which is starting to show some 87 Dark-purple flower-petal aromas meet abv: 14.5% Price: $58 of its age. It’s lively on the palate, where snappy with blackberry and slate on the nose of his bot- raspberry and ripe strawberry meet with clove and tling. The palate is dark, with violet, lavender and Three Sticks 2018 Price Family Estates Pinot more baking-spice flavors. —M.K. ­boysenberry-syrup flavors, all cut by wet gravel 91 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Blended from a selec- abv: 14.29% Price: $45 minerality and a bright acidity. —M.K. tion of estate sites, from Walala and Gap’s Crown to abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Durell, this red is hearty in blue fruit, black cherry Cornerstone 2017 Fiddlestix Vineyard and earthy forest floor. Burly tannins wrap around 89 ­Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Seared cherry, Rickshaw 2019 Pinot Noir (California). This the dense core of length and expanse—a bold state- scorched earth and singed sagebrush aromas meet 87 smooth, medium-bodied wine is lavishly ment of a wine. —V.B. with prominent oak on the nose of this bottling. The spiced with vanilla, cinnamon and toasted oak fla- abv: 14.1% Price: $65 oak is quite strong on the sip as well, where ripe vors, while a modest vein of red cherry remains in cherries and seared wood flavors dominate. —M.K. the background. —J.G. Belle Glos 2018 Dairyman Pinot Noir (Rus­ abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 90 sian River Valley). For full review see page 18. Three Thieves 2019 Pinot Noir (California). Beringer 2018 Founder’s Estate Pinot Noir abv: 14.5% Price: $55 89 For full review see page 24. Best Buy. 86 (California). A strong vein of oak spices abv: 13.5% Price: $11 gives this full-bodied wine an almost sweet effect, Decoy 2018 Pinot Noir (California). For full as cinnamon and vanilla fill the aroma and flavors. 90 review see page 19. Cottonwood Canyon 2015 HD Reserve Pinot It is broad and fairly soft in texture.Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $25 88 Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Very light in the abv: 13.9% Price: $9 glass, this transparent bottling offers aromas of dried Diora 2018 La Petite Grace Pinot Noir (Mon­ strawberry and earth on the nose. It’s light on the Firefly Ridge 2018 Pinot Noir (Central 90 terey). For full review see page 19. palate, where floral flavors of rose petal and laven- 86 Coast). Earthy aromas of dried plum and abv: 14.5% Price: $26 der meet with rusty and cranberry-orange elements. turned soil show on the nose of this bottling. Dried —M.K. cherry and berry flavors meet with hints of game Holdredge 2018 Bucher Vineyard Pinot abv: 13.6% Price: $NA and sagebrush on the palate. Best Buy. —M.K. 90 Noir (Russian River Valley). Earthy tea and abv: 13.5% Price: $10 f­orest accentuate this wine’s savory, tannic-driven Darcie Kent Vineyards 2018 Rava Blackjack nature, the weight and ripeness muscular in style 88 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Monterey). Ripe red- Fogscape 2018 Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco). and intensely energetic. The buzzy spice and acidity cherry aromas meet with smoked game on the nose 86 Struck slate, smashed stone and light cran- of this bottling. The palate combines tart red plum berry aromas show on the nose of this bottling. There is a prominent wet clay minerality on the

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BUYINGGUIDE palate, with tart red fruit and crushed slate as well. two years in barrel, 85% of it new French oak, this Valette 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). —M.K. powerful wine offers dense layers of dark chocolate, 94 For full review see page 8. abv: 13.2% Price: $25 blackberry and iron, plus a texture of crushed rock, abv: 14.9% Price: $125 with grip. Lengthy tannins are supple and well inte- Shooting Star 2017 Pinot Noir (Lake ­County). grated, contributing complexity and graceful struc- Aperture 2017 Del Rio Vineyard Cabernet 86 Tasting mature and mellow, this medium- ture. This will do well in the cellar; enjoy best from 93 Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). For full bodied wine has a tinge of amber in the color and 2027–2032. Cellar Selection. —V.B. review see page 8. Cellar Selection. offers lean red-cherry and cider flavors. —J.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $185 abv: 14.9% Price: $125 abv: 13.8% Price: $15 Les Belles Collines 2017 Les Sommets Cavaletti 2018 Whispering Bells Cabernet A&D Wines 2018 Pinot Noir (North Coast). 95 ­Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full 93 Sauvignon (Malibu Coast). Polished and 84 This wine is supersmooth but earthy, review see page 5. intriguing aromas of black cherry, mocha and sage blending black plum and grilled herbs on a non- abv: 14.8% Price: $100 show on the nose of this bottling from Malibu. The tannic texture. —J.G. rich black-currant-sorbet flavors of the palate are abv: 13% Price: $20 Les Belles Collines 2015 Les Sommets Caber­ balanced by black tea, dried herbs and minty cocoa 95 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review elements. —M.K. Lola 2018 Pinot Noir (California). This wine see page 5. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 83 is supercharged with baking spices and abv: 14.8% Price: $100 charred oak notes. These aspects make it entertain- Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2016 Block Three ing and attention-getting but also smother the vari- Aperture 2017 Oliver Ranch Cabernet Sauvi­ 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Hills). For full etal fruit characteristics. —J.G. 94 gnon (Alexander Valley). For full review see review see page 8. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.4% Price: $22 page 5. abv: 14.1% Price: $50 abv: 14.7% Price: $125 Les Belles Collines 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon CABERNET SAUVIGNON Aperture 2017 SJ Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 93 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 9. 94 (Alexander Valley). For full review see page abv: 14.6% Price: $70 Austin Hope 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi­ 5. 96 gnon (Paso Robles). For full review see page abv: 14.9% Price: $125 Les Belles Collines 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon 3. 93 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 9. abv: 15% Price: $125 Cliff Lede 2017 Songbook Cabernet Sauvi­ abv: 14.6% Price: $70 94 gnon (Napa Valley). This wine is sourced Cliff Lede 2017 Dancing Heart Rock Block from two David Abreu-farmed vineyards and is a Mauritson 2017 Clough Cabernet Sauvignon 96 Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap Dis­ study in concentrated richness. Grippy, meaty and 93 (Sonoma County). This wine is made from trict). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. intensely layered, it bursts in dark plum, cherry and an eroded riverbed layered in quartz and chert. abv: 15.2% Price: $110 currant, with a note of fig. Earthy mushroom and The wine is linear, savory and bright in underlying tobacco complement and contrast, lasting through- acidity, with aromas of violet and baking spice. The Cliff Lede 2017 Poetry Cabernet Sauvignon out a supple, memorable finish. Enjoy best from densely packed midpalate is a burst of black currant 96 (Stags Leap District). For full review see 2027–2032. Cellar Selection. —V.B. and cassis. —V.B. page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.9% Price: $210 abv: 14.57% Price: $95 abv: 15% Price: $285 Ehlers Estate 2017 1886 Estate Cabernet Silverado 2017 Geo Cabernet Sauvignon Daou 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (­Adelaida 94 Sauvignon (St. Helena). This 100% varietal 93 (Coombsville). For full review see page 10. 96 District). For full review see page 3. wine is from several blocks of the property—a bright, abv: 14.7% Price: $75 abv: 14.9% Price: $85 cohesive expression of cassis, raspberry and savory black pepper. Hearty, it retains underlying freshness Cass 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Jeremy Nickel Cellars 2015 Reserve Cabernet throughout, with silky smooth tannins that are well 92 (Paso Robles Geneseo District). Intriguing 96 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Barrel-fermented integrated and play well with the oak. —V.B. aromas of grape seed meet with blackberry juice and in 50% new oak and then barrel-aged in mostly new abv: 14.5% Price: $125 intense cola spice on the nose of this bottling, which oak for 16 months, this age-worthy red is brimming includes 12% Petit Verdot and 4% Malbec. Dried in clove, cigar box, currant and cassis. Elongated Les Belles Collines 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon berry, black-plum and peppercorn flavors make for tannins are matched by well-behaved oak dazzling 94 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 6. an intense and dynamic expression on the palate. in lasting tones of mocha and hazelnut. This wine is abv: 14.6% Price: $70 —M.K. elegantly rich. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $125 abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Les Belles Collines 2016 Les Sommets Caber­ 94 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review Cavus 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap Seavey 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa see page 6. Cellar­ Selection. 92 District). Burly in tobacco, earth and plenty 96 Valley).­ This is a 100% varietal wine made abv: 14.8% Price: $100 of power, this robust wine is plummy and rich in by Jim Duane and Philippe Melka from estate- dark cherry, the fruit taking on a jammy, concen- grown grapes. Bright, expansive and plush, it offers Mauritson 2017 Loam Cabernet Sauvignon trated aura. Notes of sage, dust and crushed rock considerable length, breadth and beauty—an earthy 94 (Sonoma County). For full review see page 7. add complexity to the undeniable ripeness. —V.B. concoction of crushed rock and black pepper laced abv: 14.57% Price: $95 abv: 15.5% Price: $115 between layers of cassis and blackberry. The tan- nins are polished and integrated well. —V.B. Mauritson 2017 Suther Cabernet Sauvignon Hall 2016 Eighteen Seventy Three Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $150 94 (Sonoma County). For full review see page 7. 92 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Full bodied, with abv: 14.57% Price: $95 powerful oak and tannin, this is an opulently earthy, Cliff Lede 2017 Beckstoffer To Kalon Caber­ fleshy wine with an entry of dried herb, pencil and 95 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). With nearly cedar. The fruit is black and brooding, appropriately­

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 matched by sweet tobacco and lasting intensity. Eberle 2017 Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sau­ Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2015 Cabernet —V.B. 91 vignon (Paso Robles). For full review see page 90 Sauvignon (Red Hills). For full review see abv: 15.2% Price: $85 16. page 19. abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 14.3% Price: $75 La P’tit Paysan 2018 Old Vines Cabernet Sau­ 92 vignon (San Benito County). From a secret Matchbook 2018 Estate Bottled Red Gravel J. Lohr 2016 Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sau­ selection of old vines, Ian Brand delivers aromas 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dunnigan Hills). For full 90 vignon (St. Helena). For full review see page of dried blackberry, leather, cocoa and a touch of review see page 23. Best Buy. 20. lavender on the very dry nose. The palate is tightly abv: 13.9% Price: $15 abv: 14.9% Price: $60 wound with tannins and a rocky minerality, offer- ing flavors of black currant, pastry and coffee bean. Opolo 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Notary Public 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon —M.K. 91 Quite dark and strongly aromatic in the glass, 90 (Santa Ynez Valley). Crushed stone, tart abv: 12.9% Price: $25 this bottling begins with cola, sarsaparilla, coffee- berry, dried earth and seared wood aromas show flavored candy and charred black currant on the rich on the nose of this bottling. Sandalwood and cedar Rockpile Winery 2017 Rockpile Ridge Vine­ nose. The palate is also full of pleasant and approach- flavors come through on the sip, where dried black- 92 yard Cabernet­ Sauvignon (Rockpile). able smoke and caramel flavors, from roasted black cherry flavors are dry as a bone. —M.K. Roundly ripe and richly layered on the palate, this is cherry to vanilla paste, butterscotch and toffee. abv: 13.5% Price: $26 blended with 10% Merlot, 9% Malbec and 3% Cab- —M.K. ernet Franc. Candied black fruit, blueberry, clove, abv: 14.9% Price: $36 Peltier 2017 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvi­ dark chocolate and crushed rock combine nicely 90 gnon (Lodi). Nicely balanced and sleek in across a lengthy, balanced core of power and inte- Pine Ridge 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ruth­ texture, this medium-bodied wine is easy to enjoy grated ­tannin. —V.B. 91 erford). Seamless in black cherry and cassis, without having to think about it, offering a smooth abv: 14.57% Price: $65 with a persistent undertone of cedar, this is a bright, texture, good acidity and well-blended berry and elegantly styled wine with supple tannin and well- plum flavors. —J.G. Seavey 2016 Caravina Cabernet Sauvignon integrated oak. Ready for the table, it appeals in its abv: 14% Price: $25 92 (Napa Valley). This is an estate-grown soft texture and balanced approachability. —V.B. wine blended with 11% Petit Verdot and 3% abv: 14% Price: $100 Silverado 2017 Estate Grown Cabernet Sau­ ­Merlot. Integrated and lush on the palate, it sings 90 vignon (Napa Valley). For full review see in black cherry­ and cassis, with a jammy richness Wood Family Vineyards 2017 Especial Caber­ page 21. and rounded texture. Tobacco, dark chocolate and 91 net Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). An entic- abv: 14.4% Price: $56 a hint of clove dust the soft, inviting texture and ing, spicy aroma of mint and cedar leads to good, approachability. This wine heartily overdelivers on ripe cherry and berry flavor in this full-bodied and St. Huberts The Stag 2017 Cabernet Sauvi­ its price point. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. moderately tannic wine. It is very smooth in texture 90 gnon (Paso Robles). For full review see page abv: 14.5% Price: $75 and softly spicy on the finish. —J.G. 21. abv: 14.2% Price: $55 abv: 13.9% Price: $25 Stags’ Leap Winery 2017 Cabernet Sauvi­ 92 gnon (Napa Valley). With small amounts of Brecon Estate 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi­ V. Sattui 2016 Reserve Stock Cabernet Sau­ Merlot and mixed reds, this wine is thick in tannin 90 gnon (Adelaida District). There’s an intense 90 vignon (Napa Valley). Blended with small and bright in red fruit, with complementary char- streak of black currant on the nose of this bottling, amounts of Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot, this acteristics of graphite, clove and cedar. An elegant bolstered by loamy soil, dark herbs, anise and sad- reserve-level wine opens in a wealth of toasted oak midpalate of balanced weight lens to a soft, graceful dle leather. The palate is cohesive, offering roasted and big tannin. Cedar, tobacco and baked cherry fla- finish. —V.B. blackberry, caramel and cola spice, proving quite vors meet seamlessly across the jammy midpalate, abv: 14.3% Price: $60 rich yet with firm tannins. —M.K. finishing in a swirl of chocolate. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $74 abv: 14.9% Price: $125 Wood Family Vineyards 2017 Viva Cabernet 92 Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). This ter- Dry Creek Vineyard 2017 Cabernet Sauvi­ Wood Family Vineyards 2017 Clone 30 Cab­ rific wine packs in all the classic Cabernet flavors 90 gnon (Dry Creek Valley). For full review see 90 ernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). This of black currants, black olives and tobacco, rest- page 19. full-bodied, velvety textured wine is nicely concen- ing them on a solid frame of moderate tannins and abv: 14.5% Price: $30 trated, a touch tannic and offers deep black-cherry full body. Aged in French barrels for 20 months, it and blackberry flavors. It is well focused on deli- shows a lot of complexity and depth, and is ready to Dry Creek Vineyard 2017 Iron Slopes Cab­ cious fruit flavors and should be best after 2023. drink now. —J.G. 90 ernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley). From —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $38 the producer’s site-specific terroir series—in this abv: 14.3% Price: $60 case a site replete with rocky iron-rich soils—this Clos La Chance 2017 Whitestone Vineyard is blended with 5% Malbec and richly flavorful in Caliza 2017 End of the Day Cabernet Sauvi­ 91 ­Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Clara Valley). black cherry, plum, cedar and dried herb. Pillowy 89 gnon (Paso Robles). Ripe cherries and ber- Blackberry and black-currant aromas meet with tannins support a powerful midpalate of structure ries meet with baking spice and oak on the nose of fudge and caramel on the lavish nose of this bot- and texture. —V.B. this bottling. The wine lands on the palate with full tling. Intriguing spices and herbs show on the pal- abv: 14.2% Price: $65 and ripe flavors of blackberry and black currant, yet ate, from thyme to incense, and a broad-shouldered there is a persistent buzz of acidity and intriguing structure holds up the hearty blackberry and cocoa Erin Danette Wines 2017 Jessy Cabernet herbal touches throughout. —M.K. flavors. —M.K. 90 Sauvignon (Napa County). Juicy in black abv: 15% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 and red berry, this is an expansive, well-integrated and softly textured wine that delivers full flavor and Cass 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso ­Robles). body weight. Lengthy, it has elements of vanilla, 89 Slightly sour aromas of black plum meet leather and tobacco that accent the fruit. —V.B. with dusty earth, dried oregano and black olive on abv: 14.5% Price: $100 the nose of this bottling, which includes 12% Mer-

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BUYINGGUIDE lot, 6% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet this soft, supple wine. Enduring earthiness persists cherry and strawberry flavors on the palate. It’s Franc. Strong oak hits the palate right away, then along a lengthy, refined finish. —V.B. attractive and well coated with baking spices from come tightly woven blackberry, violet and mocha abv: 14.8% Price: $65 oak. —J.G. flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $55 Provenance Vineyards 2017 Cabernet Sauvi­ 88 gnon (Napa Valley). With violet perfume, Educated Guess 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Grosso Kresser 2014 Reserve Cabernet Sau­ this full-bodied wine is compressed in dry tannin, 86 (North Coast). Extremely spicy and smoky, 89 vignon (Paso Robles). Dried cherries, black leading the way to a foundation of approachable this heavily oaked wine covers good black-cherry tea, coffee and wood show on the nose of this bot- red fruit, sage and herb. The oak is integrated and nuances with lots of wood-char, black-pepper and tling, which is starting to show its age but retains a moderate. —V.B. beef-juice flavors. —J.G. regal tone. The texture is hearty, offering dark-­cherry abv: 15.2% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 and chai-spice flavors on a thick texture. —M.K. abv: 15.6% Price: $75 Ancient Oak Cellars 2015 Berger Vineyard Gallegos 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Mountain). 86 Valley). This wine tastes of black cherry Sketchbook 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Perfumed in sweet oak, this wine develops crisp and plum as it rides to a midpalate of more desic- 89 (Mendocino County). This full-bodied wine flavors of cassis surround by soft rounded layers of cated dried fruit flavors. The structure is flat and is well structured, well balanced and packed with supple lengthy tannins. —V.B. the wine ripely round. —V.B. good, ripe black-cherry and blackberry flavors. Firm abv: 14.1% Price: $48 abv: 14.9% Price: $125 fine-grained tannins enrich the texture while a bit of tangy acidity keeps it lively. —J.G. Charles B. Mitchell 2018 Estate Reserve Light Horse 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali­ abv: 14.5% Price: $20 87 ­Cabernet Sauvignon (Fair Play). This full- 86 fornia). This wine tastes mellow and smoky, bodied wine is firmly tannic, very dry and offers giving a savory edge to the subdued, ripe plum fla- Akash 2018 Dreamville Cabernet Sauvignon tight black-cherry and wood-smoke flavors. Not a vors underneath. Medium body and soft tannins 88 (California). This attractive, full-bodied cocktail wine but it will pair nicely with roasts and make it easy to sip. —J.G. and firmly tannic wine shows good complexity in braises. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $13 the aromas of tobacco, oak and graphite, and has abv: 14.5% Price: $32 solid, concentrated black-cherry flavors to back Precision Wine 2017 Gabrielle Ashley Reserve them up. —J.G. Darcie Kent Vineyards 2016 Clone 337 Caber­ 86 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Tannic abv: 14.2% Price: $39 87 net Sauvignon (San Francisco Bay). An aroma and oaky, this wine has moderate structure and ripe of cedar and balsamic gives this full-bodied wine a power—an explosion of black fruit at its core. The Charles B. Mitchell 2017 Estate Reserve dramatic start, while the blueberry and cranberry puckering finish is dry and leathery. —V.B. 88 ­Cabernet Sauvignon (Fair Play). Black fruits flavors are subdued. Toasty, peppery flavors from abv: 14.5% Price: $30 and dark spices like clove and black pepper give this oak and firm tannins build on the palate. —J.G. dry wine a serious expression that’s underscored by abv: 14.5% Price: $55 Roots Run Deep Winery 2017 Bound + Deter­ firm tannins. Best with rich protein dishes. —J.G. 86 mined Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).­ abv: 14.5% Price: $32 Gooseneck 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali­ Wrapped in sweet vanilla-laden oak, this wine is 87 fornia). This medium-bodied wine offers thick and concentrated in baked plum and dark- Joyce 2018 James Joyce Cabernet Sauvignon tasty, black-fruit flavors on a dry and rather spare cherry jam, with pronounced tannin. —V.B. 88 (San Benito). Blackberry and slightly funky texture, giving it a low-key but well-balanced abv: 14.8% Price: $50 leather aromas meet with lanolin tones on the nose ­expression. —J.G. of this bottling. It’s bone dry on the palate, where abv: 14.6% Price: $16 The Federalist 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon leathery flavors of dried blackberry and smoke 86 (Lodi). An at-first earthy aroma leads to arise. —M.K. Grosso Kresser 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon dried fruit flavors in this full-bodied, broad-tex- abv: 14.2% Price: $25 87 (Paso Robles). Cherry-syrup, caramel, bour- tured and generous-tasting wine that could pass bon and wood aromas are reminiscent of port on as a Zinfandel. Plums, prunes and raisins give an Midnight 2017 Nebula Cabernet Sauvignon this older vintage release. Dried black cherries and a­lmost sweet aspect. —J.G. 88 (Paso Robles). Mellow aromas of purple Scotch-like flavors show on the palate. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $23 flowers, boysenberry, dark earth and a slightly abv: 14.7% Price: $52 tangy black-plum-skin touch show on the nose of Grosso Kresser 2013 Reserve Cabernet Sau­ this bottling. Mouthcoating tannins frame the ripe The Vice 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond 85 vignon (Paso Robles). Extracted aromas of blackberry-jam and cassis flavors, which are cut by 87 Mountain District). This is a thick, concen- blackberry jam, slightly sour fruit and some bak- sharp acidity. —M.K. trated and tannic varietal wine from the mountain ing spice show on the nose of this bottling. There abv: 15.5% Price: $55 appellation, burly in black cherry, dark chocolate is licorice spice on the palate as well as more of the and clove. It grips in lasting oak. —V.B. sour-leaning yet concentrated black fruit. —M.K. Parducci 2018 Small Lot Cabernet Sauvi­ abv: 14.8% Price: $55 abv: 14.6% Price: $75 88 gnon (Mendocino County). Nicely balanced and sleek in texture, this medium-bodied wine is Tortoise Creek 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Jamieson Ranch 2018 Whiplash Cabernet easy to enjoy and uncomplicated, offering a smooth 87 (California). A strong beefy, peppery char- 85 Sauvignon (California). Light, smooth and texture, good acidity and well-blended berry and acter runs through this full-bodied wine from first easygoing in texture, this fruity and slightly earthy plum flavors. —J.G. whiff to the finish. Mostly smoky, dark spices fill wine is full bodied, flavorful and low in tannins. It abv: 14.5% Price: $15 the palate while moderate tannins shape a firm will be good for a low-key evening. —J.G. mouthfeel. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $13 Pine Ridge 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 13.5% Price: $12 88 Valley). American oak wraps around strong- Precision Wine 2018 Gabrielle Ashley Caber­ willed flavors of cinnamon stick, clove and iron in Cycles Gladiator 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon 85 net Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). With an 86 (California). This wine practically bursts up-front perfume of woody oak, this wine develops with spicy, toasty aromas and blends them with hints of cedar and herb atop its core of jammy red

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 fruit. Soft, simple and a tad flabby, it is approach- a sensation of sweetness make this light-bodied Stags’ Leap Winery 2017 Merlot (Napa able and meant to enjoy now. —V.B. wine festive and appealing. —J.G. 90 Valley).­ Strengthened by small amounts abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.8% Price: $18 of Petite Sirah and mixed reds, this is a tart, high- toned red, dusty in texture and well-integrated Hook or Crook 2018 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi­ acidity. Plum, dark cherry and a whiff of dark choco- 84 gnon (Napa Valley). This wine offers thickly MERLOT late accent the full-bodied power and soft approach. concentrated jammy fruit that veers into cloying —V.B. territory, without much acidity to balance. —V.B. Calluna 2017 Aux Raynauds Merlot (Chalk abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.8% Price: $40 94 Hill). Blended with 14% Cabernet Franc, this is an herbal, classically structured wine with Starmont 2018 Merlot (Napa Valley). Hook or Crook 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sau­ enduring elegance and class. Tart and tangy red 90 Blended with 15% Malbec, this wine is 84 vignon (Napa Valley). Reductive, this wine fruit lifted by underlying acidity are girded in pushy reductive and high toned, with fresh acidity lifting is oaky and somewhat green, with a tease of black tannin structure that is still unwinding. Enjoy best its otherwise intensely built layers of clove, toasted olive. —V.B. from 2025 through 2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. oak, cedar and iron. Red-currant flavor provides a abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 14.2% Price: $40 worthwhile contrast and crisp finish. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $27 Seavey 2016 Estate Grown Merlot (Napa CABERNET FRANC 94 Valley).­ The winery’s 23rd vintage of this Sutro 2017 Merlot (Alexander Valley). Softly wine, made from hillside-grown grapes on its estate, 90 layered in red plum and cherry, this is an Lava Cap 2016 Estate Bottled Cabernet Franc this sings in earthy herbalness, an effortless mix herbaceous wine made with the addition of 12% 93 (El Dorado). For full review see page 9. Cel- of pencil shavings, cedar and compost. Complex, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petit Verdot and 2% Cab- lar Selection. structured and ultimately elegant, it offers smooth ernet Franc. The oak is complementary and well abv: 14.2% Price: $40 layers of pomegranate, red cherry and a depth of ­integrated, contributing a lasting hint of vanilla and dark chocolate. —V.B. baking spice. —V.B. Maxville 2016 Cabernet Franc (Chiles Valley).­ abv: 14.5% Price: $70 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 90 With a hearty 22.63% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in, this is a deeply concentrated wine, with Cornerstone 2016 Oakville Station Merlot San Simeon 2017 Merlot (Paso Robles). Dark woody tannin and oak. Elegant red currant and 93 (Oakville). Juicy in plum and dark cherry, 89 aromas of charred cedar, blackberry and a raspberry give it a thick fruitiness dusted in cocoa this is classic Oakville richness and bright fruit in hint of potpourri show on the nose of this bottling. powder and cedar. —V.B. one glass. Toasted oak complements a soft, rounded The tannins rise up quickly on the palate, high- abv: 14.5% Price: $67 and textured palate of supple tannin and lasting lighting thick black-cherry, mocha and oak flavors. baking spice, as well as black pepper, leather and a —M.K. Sequoia Grove 2016 Tonella Vineyard trace of tobacco. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $30 90 ­Cabernet Franc (Rutherford). A 100% abv: 14.6% Price: $85 ­varietal wine from the vineyard, this was given 22 Benziger 2017 Merlot (Sonoma County). months in barrel, half of it new French oak. Dusty Silverado 2016 Mt George Vineyard Estate 88 Perfumed oak supports a big, plush palate dried herb, blueberry and currant meld around a 92 Grown Merlot (Coombsville). For full review of dry, supple tannin and robustly ripe plum and soft, smoothly round palate of full-bodied intensity see page 14. black cherry. Herbal notes of cedar accent the fruit and concentration. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $40 alongside an earthy plume of clove. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Steele 2017 Merlot (Lake County). Smooth Delta 2019 Cabernet Franc (California). 92 but serious, this full-bodied and firm-tex- Heron 2017 Merlot (California). Clean, ripe 88 This wine offers outstanding value for the tured wine wraps gorgeous black cherry and dark 88 and well balanced, this attractive and rather quality, a mix of herbal, perfumed oak atop soft, chocolate in velvety tannins. A creamy mouthfeel, light-bodied wine offers ample black-fruit flavors, ­approachable layers of raspberry and cassis. Bright layered fruits, baking spices and good length on the light herbal accents and a hint of baking spices. —J.G. and unfussy, it delivers nuanced flavor and a lasting finish complete a beautiful picture.Editors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $18 hint of char. —V.B. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Highland Valley 2016 Merlot (Dry Creek 88 Valley).­ A spicy perfume of clove and nut- Gibbs 2017 Cabernet Franc (St. Helena). Lava Cap 2017 Estate Bottled Merlot (El meg leads to a plush, rounded midpalate of savory 88 ­Cedar, pencil shavings and peppercorn 91 Dorado). For full review see page 17. black fruit and thick tannin in this small-produc- greet the nose before juicy, rounded layers of rasp- abv: 14% Price: $25 tion wine. The finish is easy. —V.B. berry and blackberry figure in. Soft supple tannin abv: 14% Price: $40 make for a lighter style of intensity, finishing in Buttonwood Farm 2017 Merlot (Santa Ynez clove. —V.B. 90 Valley). Merlot is not the typical candidate Provenance Vineyards 2017 Merlot (Napa abv: 14.5% Price: $30 for a chillable red, but this fresh bottling would 88 Valley). Soft elongated tannins wrap around work great cooled down. Zesty aromas of cran-rasp- a thick body of hugely concentrated black fruit and a Charles B. Mitchell 2017 Thompson Vine­ berry juice, red flowers and white pepper lead into a wealth of oak in this brawny wine. Dried herb, cedar 86 yards Reserve Cabernet Franc (Fair Play). poppy palate of oregano, marjoram, cracked pepper and pencil shavings adhere to the variety’s character- This wine is bold, concentrated and firmly tannic, and candied cranberry. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. istic earthiness. —V.B. holding black-currant, rosemary and toasted oak abv: 13.8% Price: $26 abv: 15.1% Price: $40 flavors tightly on the palate. Best from 2023. —J.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $28 Darcie Kent Vineyards 2016 Old Vines Merlot Gallegos 2016 Rancho De Gallegos Merlot 90 (San Francisco Bay). For full review see page 87 (Rutherford). Raisiny plum flavors go deep Steele 2019 Cabernet Franc (Lake County). 19. and rich against a thick texture of tannin and 86 Effusive floral and tropical fruit flavors and abv: 13.9% Price: $45 toasted oak in this full-bodied, powerfully concen-

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BUYINGGUIDE trated wine. Touches of dried herb and sage pop on into a palate of thick, nondescript fruit and ample Jeff Cohn 2017 Orcio Sweetwater Springs the finish. —V.B. tannin, the grapes grown at high-elevation. —V.B. 94 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Fermented abv: 14.9% Price: $75 abv: 14.1% Price: $75 and aged in terra-cotta amphora, this hearty wine is perfumed in white pepper and thickets of wild Pacific Redwood 2018 Organic Merlot (North V. Sattui 2017 Petit Verdot (Napa Valley). raspberry. Buzzy acidity keeps it fresh and balanced 86 Coast). Lots of fresh fruit flavors—rasp- 87 Stainless-steel fermented and blended amidst the concentrated jammy nature of the wine, berry and strawberry—are nicely accented by bak- with 4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Merlot, this giving it enduring complexity. —V.B. ing spices in this full-bodied, uncomplicated wine robustly full-bodied wine is brimming in coffee, abv: 15.6% Price: $60 that contains no added sulfites. —J.G. leather and toasted oak. Blueberry and blackberry abv: 14.3% Price: $15 flavors give it a fruity complement that jams onto Rockpile Winery 2018 Westphall Ridge Vine­ the palate. —V.B. 94 yard Zinfandel (Rockpile). This estate site is Roots Run Deep Winery 2017 Educated Guess abv: 14.8% Price: $47 the highest elevation in the winery’s portfolio, the 84 Merlot (Napa County). Blended with 10% vines steeply planted in red volcanic soil. Its min- Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petite Sirah, this is a erality is front and center, as are inviting aromas dark and brooding wine, tannic and herbal, with lay- SANGIOVESE of violet and tea. Balanced, bright and complex, it ers of vanilla cream and sweet, charred oak. —V.B. provides supple texture in contrast to its crisp red abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Robert Renzoni 2016 Estate Grown Sangio­ and black fruit, finishing in a subtle swirl of vanilla 94 vese (Temecula Valley). For full review see latte. —V.B. page 7. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.75% Price: $49 MALBEC abv: 13.9% Price: $58 Jeff Cohn 2017 St Peter’s Church Zinfandel Devil Proof 2017 Farrow Ranch Malbec (Alex­ Prima Materia 2017 Sangiovese (Kelsey 93 (Alexander Valley). Winemaker Cohn has 95 ander Valley). For full review see page 4. 90 Bench). Complex in flavors and grippy in made this wine since his days at Rosenblum Cel- abv: 14.7% Price: $175 texture, this full-bodied wine offers lightly smoky, lars, starting in 1996, and his deftness with the site meaty aromas, tangy red-cherry and raspberry fla- shows here. Thick in blackberry jam, pepper, ­leather Devil Proof 2017 Rockpile Ridge Malbec vors and a firm, tannic mouthfeel. It certainly whets and bacon, it is thick and structured and leaves a 94 (Rockpile). For full review see page 6. the appetite. —J.G. trace of dust and black pepper as it finishes. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $175 abv: 14.1% Price: $28 abv: 15.5% Price: $45

Opaque 2017 Malbec (Paso Robles). Quite Scotto Family Cellars 2017 Res­erve Mohr Fry Jeff Cohn 2017 Sweetwater Springs Vineyard 91 dark in the glass, this bottling shows black- 89 Ranch Sangiovese (Lodi). This full-bodied, 93 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). This is a cherry jam and nutmeg aromas on the nose. There’s ripe and inviting wine offers enticing olive and sage smooth, textured vineyard-designate, from a hill- a satisfying viscosity on the palate, where rich aromas, rich red-fruit flavors and light tannins to side site, robustly opulent in red and black cherry. blackberry and licorice flavors lead into a caramel firm up the texture. —J.G. Black pepper, leather and tobacco weave their way and vanilla finish, with fresh acidity to keep it in abv: 14.8% Price: $20 in across a seamlessly integrated, complex core of check. —M.K. varietal intensity. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $40 Martin Ranch 2016 Therese Vineyards Dos abv: 15.6% Price: $45 88 Ninas Vineyard Sangiovese (Santa Clara Dry Creek Vineyard 2017 Malbec (Dry Creek Valley).­ Strong aromas of incense and wood coat Rockpile Winery 2018 Jack’s Cabin Vineyard 89 Valley). A 100% varietal wine, this opens in the extracted berry and roasted black-plum aromas 93 Zinfandel­ (Rockpile). For full review see thick, brawny tannins and oak before allowing room on the nose of this wine. The barrel spice is power- page 10. to reveal smoothly robust flavors of leather, pepper ful on the palate, where clove spice and pine needle abv: 14.57% Price: $49 and blackberry jam. Relatively light in style, it has play against the rich cassis core. —M.K. measured ripeness and length. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $32 Rockpile Winery 2018 Rockpile Ridge Vine­ abv: 13.8% Price: $40 93 yard Zinfandel­ (Rockpile). For full review McKinney 2017 Blood of Jove Sangiovese see page 10. Midnight 2017 Solstice Malbec (Paso ­Robles). 88 (Santa Barbara County). Rustic aromas of abv: 14.57% Price: $49 87 Blackberry and cherry-paste aromas meet dried cherries, dried plums, light leather, salt and with wild mint on the nose of this bottling. Black- pepper show on the nose of this bottling. There’s Sol Rouge 2016 Zinfandel (Red Hills). This plum, lilac and lavender flavors show on the slightly an earthy streak to the palate, where oregano, 93 engaging and robust wine has the classic sour palate. —M.K. thyme and marjoram meet with light cherry on the v­arietal attributes of brambly, berry-like aromas, abv: 14.9% Price: $49 ­medium-bodied frame. —M.K. rich and very ripe fruit flavors, full body and a abv: 14% Price: $60 broad, softly tannic texture. It’s tasty and complex, well rounded and satisfying. —J.G. PETIT VERDOT Kendric 2016 Reward Ranch Sangiovese abv: 14.5% Price: $36 87 (Shenandoah Valley). This light-colored, Jarvis 2014 Estate Grown Cave Fermented lean, vibrant, medium-bodied wine is energized by Williams Selyem 2018 Papera Vineyard 90 Petit Verdot (Napa Valley). Reductive and acidity and firm tannins that wrap around good red- 93 ­Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). For full tannic, this brawny, structured wine is intensely cherry and cranberry flavors. —J.G. review see page 11. layered in dried herb, cedar and tobacco, with subtle abv: 13.7% Price: $22 abv: 15% Price: $65 black fruit and lasting oak. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $165 Baca 2018 Double Dutch Dusi Vineyard ZINFANDEL 92 Z­infandel (Paso Robles). Roasted blueberry Spicy Vines 2017 Petit Verdot (Pine Moun­ and black-currant aromas are laid across wet rocks 87 tain-Cloverdale Peak). This is a 100% vari- Benovia 2017 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). and dusted with a pinch of thyme on the rich and etal wine aged 26 months in aged French oak. With 94 For full review see page 6. lush nose of this bottling, which satisfies like com- an inviting bouquet of tobacco and cedar, it dives abv: 15.2% Price: $42 fort food. The hearty blueberry and cassis flavors

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 of the palate are layered with crushed oregano and around dense, brambly blackberry and cherry, find- Opaque 2017 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Plump more wild herbs. —M.K. ing a cohesive structure on the finish. —V.B. 91 and ripe aromas of black cherry, toast and abv: 15.4% Price: $35 abv: 15.3% Price: $30 spicy pepper kick off the nose on this bottling. Roasted black-currant and nutmeg flavors arise on Baca 2018 Somersault Pacini Vineyard Mauritson 2018 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). the sip, which is thick with tannins, balanced in 92 Zinfandel­ (Mendocino). Gorgeous fruit fla- 92 For full review see page 13. acidity and finishes on a vanilla tone. —M.K. vors practically ooze from the glass in this very ripe, abv: 14.75% Price: $40 abv: 14.9% Price: $40 very tasty and full-bodied wine. Blackberry jam, strawberries and black plums flood the palate while Williams Selyem 2018 Fanucchi-Wood Road Seawolf 2018 Marcucci Vineyard Zinfandel soft tannins give a velvety texture. —J.G. 92 Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). 91 (Russian River Valley). This is a tiny produc- abv: 14.9% Price: $50 For full review see page 14. —V.B. tion field blend led by Zin with smaller amounts of abv: 15.1% Price: $65 Alicante Bouschet, Carignan, Petite Sirah and Golden Bartholomew Estate 2018 Garden Block Chasselas. Cofermented, it was given 14 months in 92 ­Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). For full review Baca 2018 Home Base Zinfandel (Dry Creek French oak, a minority new. Baked red fruit, spicy see page 11. 91 Valley). With grapes grown by the Mauritson cinnamon and sweet oak contribute soft, rounded abv: 15% Price: $45 family, this wine is gritty, textured and gravely on layers of flavor boosted by underling acidity. —V.B. the palate, with exuberantly full-bodied red fruit. abv: 14.8% Price: $52 Caliza 2017 Primitivo (Paso Robles Willow Bringing heat and intensity to the fore, it settles 92 Creek District). Crushed rock aromas meet into a structured finish of dusty black pepper and Seghesio 2018 Todd Brothers Zinfandel (Alex­ with ripe cassis on the mineral-driven nose of this nutmeg. —V.B. 91 ander Valley). From head-trained vines, this bottling. The palate is deep and dark with blueberry abv: 15.4% Price: $40 wine is thick, concentrated and richly layered in red pound-cake flavors as well as a touch of licorice, and black berry and cherry. High-toned acidity lifts with a firm tension that holds into the finish. —M.K. Baca 2018 Tug O’ War Maffei Vineyard the density of the fruit as shocks of black pepper, abv: 15% Price: $65 91 ­Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Fruity, with nutmeg and leather weigh in. —V.B. a dusty nose of baked plum, cinnamon and prune, abv: 16.2% Price: $50 Charles B. Mitchell 2017 Estate Reserve this wine comes from a vineyard planted between 92 ­Zinfandel (El Dorado). This well-balanced, 1929 and 1949. Still in the same family, it offers Terra d’Oro 2018 SHR Field Blend Zinfandel well-structured wine grips the palate with firm bright, quenching acidity beneath the brawn and 91 (Amador County). This interesting and com- tannins and fills the mouth with ripe, focused lasting heat. —V.B. plex wine blends savory and mineral flavors with blackberry and raspberry flavors. It’s chewy, con- abv: 15.5% Price: $60 ripe berries on a full body and smooth, non-tannic centrated and will make a great pairing with meats, texture. The 13% Petite Sirah and 7% Barbera add risottos and pastas. —J.G. Carol Shelton 2017 Rocky Reserve Florence depth and lift to the Zin. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $25 91 Vineyard Zinfandel (Rockpile). From a 1,400- abv: 15.5% Price: $35 feet elevation site thick in volcanic soils, this wine Comartin 2018 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). is blended with 13% Petite Sirah and shows a touch Ancient Oak Cellars 2016 Pagnano Zinfandel 92 This full-bodied wine emphasizes savory, of reduction on opening. It evolves to impart juicy 90 (Russian River Valley). Winemaker Greg La salty, white-peppery complexity backed by a solid lengths of blueberry, black cherry and licorice, with Follette has created a wine with a slight reductive core of raspberry and blackberry, giving it extra a jolt of cola, the tannins lush and plush. —V.B. edge, opening in thick, intensely concentrated fla- ­dimensions that are a treat to taste. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $38 vors of dark plum, blackberry and cherry. Tobacco abv: 14.8% Price: $33 and nutmeg season a juicy underbelly of bold rich- Eden Rift 2018 Dickinson Block Zinfandel ness that lasts on the palate. —V.B. Dashe Cellars 2018 Vineyard Select Zinfandel 91 (Cienega Valley). For a wine from vines abv: 14.7% Price: $40 92 (California). This seductive wine shows a lot ­planted in 1906, this bottling is full of youthful of polish and nuanced oak spices for a Zinfandel, ­vibrancy rather than austere elegance. Buoyant aro- Baca 2018 I Spy Black Sears Vineyard as cinnamon, cedar and vanilla mingle with deep, mas of boysenberry syrup, nutmeg and mace are ripe 90 ­Zinfandel (Howell Mountain). Voluptuously dark-blackberry and black-currant flavors. Blended but fresh, while the palate’s blueberry-compote, over the top in style and approach, this wine offers from various Northern California vineyards, it’s black-pepper and licorice flavors are playful and velvety concentration and sweet heat, with burst- laced with fine-grained tannins and will certainly juicy. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. ing red fruit. From a dry-farmed, head-trained site improve through at least 2025. —J.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $45 farmed organically and biodynamically, it threads abv: 14.5% Price: $24 a needle of bright acidity throughout the ripeness. Fritz Underground 2017 Estate Zinfandel —V.B. Dashe Cellars 2017 Les Enfants Terribles 91 (Dry Creek Valley). Blackberry and cinnamon abv: 15.1% Price: $60 92 Mendo­cino Cuvée Zinfandel (Mendocino highlight this wine’s well-integrated core of oak and County). This wine is nicely ripe and nicely dry, tannin, the spicy complexity offering lasting flavor Carol Shelton 2016 Karma Bastoni Vineyard bracing its focused raspberry and black-plum and balance. A touch of vanilla sparks on the velvety 90 Zinfandel (Fountaingrove District). A field ­flavors with firm tannins and full body. Hints of finish. —V.B. blend composed of 12% Alicante Bouschet, 8% ­cedar and rosemary in the aroma and on the finish abv: 14.6% Price: $35 ­Petite Sirah and 3% Carignan, this wine is complex add interesting complexity. —J.G. and layered, tasting of mocha chocolate, sweet oak, abv: 14.3% Price: $32 Jeff Cohn 2017 Iron Hill Vineyard Zinfandel nutmeg and cinnamon. The fruit is dark and bram- 91 (Sonoma Valley). From a hillside site where bly, richly defined in blackberry and black cherry. Joseph Swan Vineyards 2013 Bastoni Vine­ the vines are planted in solid volcanic rock, this wine —V.B. 92 yards Zinfandel (Sonoma County). From is surprisingly bright and inviting blue and red fruit. abv: 14.5% Price: $33 winemaker Rod Berglund comes this earthy, funky Thick and rich on the palate, it has powerfully firm, wine, intense in dusty, chalky tannin and well-inte- structured tannin to support the concentration. Charles B. Mitchell 2018 Late Harvest Estate grated oak. The spice and leather take center stage —V.B. 90 Zinfandel (El Dorado). This is an excellent, abv: 15.2% Price: $45 smooth and very ripe-tasting semisweet wine that is full bodied and has a touch of tannin to balance

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BUYINGGUIDE its lavish red- and black-fruit flavors. True to the Gallo Signature Series 2017 Zinfandel (Dry sugar and plums in this full-bodied, and moderately late-harvest style, it turns sweet in mouthfeel and 88 Creek Valley). This is a soft, round and tannic wine. —J.G. on the finish. —J.G. approachable wine, boldly ripe and lush on the pal- abv: 14.5% Price: $12 abv: 14.9% Price: $25 ate. Vanilla and black cherry dominate in flavor. —V.B. Tussock Jumper 2018 Zinfandel (California). De Loach 2017 Riebli Valley Vineyard abv: 16% Price: $50 85 This full-bodied wine offers earthy, funky, 90 ­Zinfandel (Fountaingrove District). From black peppery aromas followed by good blackberry dry-farmed, century-old vines, this wine is richly Kokomo 2018 Pauline’s Vineyard Zinfandel and strawberry flavors on a rich texture. —J.G. ripe in plum and black cherry, with a hot and heavy 88 (Dry Creek Valley). This is a lushly concen- abv: 15% Price: $14 presence tempered by a lift of acidity. Dusty tannin trated and ripe wine, viscously textured and rich in and tobacco ride out the finish. —V.B. cherry and vanilla. The oak takes on a sweetness abv: 15.5% Price: $50 that lingers. —V.B. RED BLENDS abv: 15.3% Price: $36 Delta 2018 Zinfandel (California). This is Asuncion Ridge 2016 Lascivious (Paso 90 such a solidly made, ultimately drinkable Opolo 2018 Mountain Zinfandel (Paso 95 Robles). For full review see page 4. Editors’ wine at such a value-minded price that it is hard 88 Robles).­ Muddled blueberry, clove and nut- Choice. to resist. Smoky dark chocolate meets thick black- meg aromas show on the nose of this bottling. The abv: 14.6% Price: $40 berry jam as a lift of brightness keeps it balanced palate is thick and heavy with flavors of blackberry and lengthy. Best Buy. —V.B. paste, backed up by loads of baking spice and oak. J. Lohr 2016 Cuvée Pau Red Wine (Paso abv: 14.5% Price: $15 —M.K. 95 Robles). For full review see page 5. abv: 15.7% Price: $30 abv: 14.9% Price: $60 Dry Creek Vineyard 2018 Heritage Vines Zin­ 90 fandel (Sonoma County). For full review see Charles B. Mitchell 2018 Merrill Vineyards Portfolio 2016 Red (Napa Valley). A classi- page 19. 87 Reserve Zinfandel (El Dorado). Abundant 95 cally structured Bordeaux blend made by abv: 14.5% Price: $26 baking spices and a touch of wood smoke dominate Geneviève Janssens, this vintage impresses as much the aroma of this full-bodied and moderately tan- as its previous colleagues. Thick tannin lies beneath Dry Creek Vineyard 2017 Old Vine Zinfandel nic wine, while jammy fruit flavors come out on the complex layers of cedar, pencil shavings, raspberry 90 (Dry Creek Valley). For full review see page palate. —J.G. and coconut, the wine lengthy and powerful. This 19. abv: 13.8% Price: $35 will do well over time; enjoy best from 2026–2031. abv: 14.9% Price: $35 Cellar Selection. —V.B. Charles B. Mitchell 2018 Spanish Creek abv: 15% Price: $165 Lola 2018 Zinfandel (St. Helena). Made in a 87 ­Reserve Zinfandel (El Dorado). Jammy, 90 light, bright style, this elegant wine is tangy ­almost sweet flavors and a wild berry component Villa Creek 2017 Avenger (Paso Robles). and spicy, aged in neutral oak. Sweet tobacco, black give this medium-bodied and non-tannic wine 95 Deep and hearty aromas of stewed plum, cherry and plum hit the palate with restraint. —V.B. plenty of varietal character uncompromised by blueberry and a touch of violet stay smooth and abv: 12.5% Price: $45 oaky flavors. It bursts with fruitiness and freshness. balanced on the nose of this blend of 70% Syrah, —J.G. 20% Mourvèdre and 10% Grenache. The texture Rock Wall 2018 Maggie’s Reserve Zinfandel abv: 13.8% Price: $28 is immediately compelling, with firm tannins that 90 (Sonoma Valley). Mocha and nutmeg season frame that rich flavors of roasted berry, smoked a soft, restrained and elegant core of blueberry and Maddalena 2018 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). meat and peppery spice, with a pinch of lavender. candied plum in this well-made wine. From vines 87 Deep, dark and oaky aromas of black cherry, —M.K. planted in the 1800s, this Zin was cofermented­ with toast, vanilla and caramel are quite ripe and woody abv: 15.5% Price: $60 Sémillon, Muscadelle and Palomino. —V.B. on the nose of this bottling. There is more lushness abv: 14.4% Price: $50 to the palate, where those same exact elements are Villa Creek 2017 High Road James Berry Vine­ all at play. —M.K. 95 yard (Paso Robles Willow Creek District). Eberle 2018 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). A abv: 14.9% Price: $25 Dark-berry, cola-spice and rich loamy soil aromas 89 blend of three vineyards, this bottling show on the rich nose of this blend of 40% Gre- ­begins with rustic aromas of tangy cranberry, richer Mount Peak 2017 Rattlesnake Zinfandel nache, 30% Syrah and 30% Mourvèdre. Firm tan- strawberry and charred fennel. Those roasted fruit 87 (Sonoma­ County). Gigantically ripe and nins and a high-toned acidity, which will ensure a flavors meet with a touch of oak and dusting of star concentrated, this wine is thick and rich in tar, long cellar life, frame thick and rich flavors of black anise on the palate, which is framed by decent acid- blackberry syrup and dark chocolate. It finishes vel- cherry, soy and purple flowers. Drink 2021–2036. ity and noticeable tannins. —M.K. vety and sweet in tobacco leaf. —V.B. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 15.3% Price: $34 abv: 16% Price: $48 abv: 15.2% Price: $80

Jeff Cohn 2017 Rossi Ranch Vineyard Rabble 2017 Mossfire Ranch Zinfandel (Paso Folded Hills 2017 August (Santa Ynez ­Valley). 89 Z­infandel (Sonoma Valley). From an organ- 87 Robles). Baked cherry, seared blackberry, a 94 There’s a lot of cool-climate spice on the ically farmed site, this full-bodied, ultraripe wine is hint of herbs and a bit of charcoal show on the nose nose of this blend, starting with aromas of bay leaf, pruney and viscous, with meaty elements alongside of this bottling. The palate is quite young and unre- thyme, cracked green peppercorns and light cran- vanilla oak. —V.B. fined still, with roasted blackberry and tar flavors, berry on the nose. The palate is tense and herbal, abv: 15.6% Price: $45 and stiff tannins. —M.K. with black-tea and eucalyptus flavors playing abv: 14.5% Price: $23 against the taut raspberry fruit. —M.K. Terra d’Oro 2018 Home Vineyard Zinfandel abv: 13.6% Price: $43 89 (Amador County). This is a very good, richly Tortoise Creek 2018 The Chelonian Zinfandel flavored wine, quite full bodied and generously 85 (Lodi). Earthy and black-peppery aromas Peachy Canyon 2018 G-S-M (Adelaida Dis­ spiced, with vanilla and brown sugar notes. —J.G. lead to mostly oaky flavors of cedar, maple, brown 94 trict). For full review see page 7. abv: 15.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.8% Price: $50

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Stags’ Leap Winery 2016 Twelve Falls (Stags ral shrub, which taste so much like the Santa Ynez elements just grow more expressive and cohesive as 94 Leap District). This wine is led by 45% Mountains. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. the wine breathes. —M.K. Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Petite Sirah, with abv: 13.8% Price: $45 abv: 14.1% Price: $66 small accents of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec, all estate-grown.­ Robustly built, muscular no less, it Le P’tit Paysan 2017 Le P’tit Pape (Central The Feminist Party 2018 G-S-M (Santa has sturdy structure and powerful black fruit, with 93 Coast). Clean raspberry and strawberry aro- 93 Barbara County). Brisk hits of cherry and secondary characteristics of garrigue, leather and mas are lifted by a pinch of pepper and fresh mar- hibiscus are surrounded by more leathery tones forest earth. This will do well in the cellar; enjoy joram on the nose of this blend of 57% Grenache, of smoked meat on the nose of this blend of 50% best from 2026–2031. Cellar Selection. —V.B. 34% Syrah, 6% Mourvèdre and 3% Counoise. Tart Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre and 20% Syrah. The abv: 14.1% Price: $100 cranberry and strawberry flavors are quite fresh on core flavors of red cherry and raspberry are lifted by the palate, but there are also savory hints of meat toasted sage and seared pork, providing the lighter Tablas Creek 2018 Cotes de Tablas (Adelaida and white pepper. —M.K. bodied wine with lots of intrigue. —M.K. 94 District). There’s an utter smoothness abv: 13.9% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $36 to this wine that must come from the decades of experience that the winery has in blending Rhône McPrice Myers 2017 Paper Street (Paso Aperture 2017 Soil Specific Red Wine (Alex­ varieties. This mix of 45% Grenache, 33% Syrah, 93 R­obles Willow Creek District). Quite dark in 92 ander Valley). For full review see page 11. 12% Counoise and 10% Mourvèdre starts with the glass, this blend of 54% Syrah, 24% Grenache, abv: 14.4% Price: $55 cherry, hibiscus, crushed gravel and cola on the 10% Mourvèdre, 4% Petite Sirah, 4% Zinfandel nose. The palate combines berry, baking-spice and and 4% Clairette Blanche shows aromas of boysen- Cass 2017 Rockin’ One (Paso Robles). ­Roasted ­cappuccino flavors, wrapped in a leathery structure. berry paste, crushed black rocks, liquefied purple 92 boysenberry, scorched red-plum, baked lic- Editors’ Choice. —M.K. flowers, sliced beef and iodine. Intense flavors of orice and warm toast aromas show on the nose of abv: 14.5% Price: $35 berry, black currant and barrel spice are framed by this blend of 42% Mourvèdre, 40% ­Grenache, 12% solid tannins. —M.K. Syrah and 6% Petite Sirah. The palate is very ripe Villa Creek 2017 This Way That Way (Paso abv: 15.2% Price: $55 and broad, combining baked blackberry and plums 94 Robles). This split between cofermented with melted licorice and sarsaparilla spice. —M.K. Grenache and Mourvèdre begins with berry jam Paix Sur Terre 2018 Songs of Its Own Glenrose abv: 15% Price: $49 and nutmeg on the rich cohesive nose. The palate is 93 Vineyard (Adelaida District). Dark raspberry wrapped in lavish yet chiseled tannins that are both and boysenberry-jam aromas meet with a strong Foxen 2017 Cuvée Jeanne Marie Willamson- grippy and smooth, carrying dark-cherry, mocha­ and hint of crushed gravel and dried herb on the nose of 92 Dore Vineyard (Los Olivos District). Candied chai-spice flavors on a frame that will last for a long this blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvèdre. black-raspberry sorbet makes for a deliciously time. Drink now through 2037. Cellar Selection. Roasted berries and smoked meats make for a cohe- pure fruit aroma on the nose of this blend of 70% —M.K. sive flavor profile on the palate. —M.K. ­Grenache and 30% Mourvèdre, which is further abv: 15% Price: $85 abv: 14.9% Price: $55 lifted by fennel and minty sage. The snappy fresh fruit flavors meet with lavender, sandalwood and Barrack 2017 Ten-Goal (Happy Canyon of Parducci 2018 True Grit Reserve (Mendocino Concord grape on the palate. —M.K. 93 Santa Barbara). This is an extremely struc- 93 County). So polished and creamy that it’s abv: 14.5% Price: $48 tural wine, starting with aromas of blackberry, seductive, this full-bodied blend of Syrah, Zinfandel ­cedar, black olive and black pepper. The dark-fruit and other varieties lavishes tempting baking spices J. Lohr 2016 Cuvée Pom Red Wine (Paso flavors meet with cedar spice on the palate, where on top of deep ripe black-cherry and dark-chocolate 92 Robles). For full review see page 12. the tannins and acidity will smooth out and ­reveal flavors. With 48% Petite Sirah in the blend, it’s abv: 14.9% Price: $60 more character with time. Drink 2022–2037. ­Cellar very concentrated and should develop well through Selection. —M.K. at least 2025. —J.G. J. Lohr 2016 Cuvée St. E Red Wine (Paso abv: 14.1% Price: $85 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 92 Robles). For full review see page 12. abv: 14.9% Price: $60 Caliza 2017 Azimuth (Paso Robles Willow Refugio Ranch 2017 Barbareño Syrah-Petite 93 Creek District). Deep, dark and hearty aro- 93 Sirah (Santa Ynez Valley). Grown on the rug- Jeff Cohn 2017 Pure Yum Syrah-Grenache mas of black plum, boysenberry and nutmeg show ged northern slopes of the Santa Ynez Mountains, 92 (Sonoma County). This is made from 67% on the nose of this blend of 48% Mourvèdre, 35% this blend of 78% Syrah and 22% Petite Sirah Rockpile-grown Syrah and 33% Grenache from El Syrah, 17% Grenache, which was treated to 48% starts with aromas of cassis, char, beef, pepper and Diablo Vineyard. Aged in large-format French bar- new oak. Clean lines of mulberry and black plum soy. The palate is framed by strong tannins and rels, it is robust in graphite, garrigue and dark, meet with mace on the densely textured palate. acidity, with hearty black-currant and grilled meat brooding black fruit. Shocks of white and black —M.K. flavors. Drink 2022–2032.Cellar Selection. —M.K. pepper complement and enliven the richness. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 15.2% Price: $45

Daou 2017 Micho (Paso Robles). For full Sky Devil 2017 Formation Proprietary Red Maha 2016 Backlit (Adelaida District). Dark 93 review see page 8. 93 Wine (Napa Valley). For full review see page 92 plum-paste and baked black-cherry aromas abv: 14% Price: $85 10. Cellar­ Selection. meet with chai, vanilla and cardamom spices on the abv: 16.1% Price: $85 lush nose of this bottling. The palate is thick with Folded Hills 2018 G-S-M (Santa Ynez Valley).­ lingering tannins that are both sandy and sticky. 93 There’s a lot of appealing subtlety to enjoy TH Estate 2017 The 46 (Paso Robles Wil­ They uphold the rich core of black cherry and in this blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 93 low Creek District). Cranberry and rasp- ­vanilla while acidity zings throughout. —M.K. 20% Mourvèdre from the Stolpman, Thompson berry fruit tones meet with wet rock aromas and a abv: 15% Price: $98 and Folded Hills vineyards, starting with soft straw- hint of lavender on the nose of this blend of 46% berries, crumbled hibiscus and white sage on the ­Grenache, 40% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre and 2% Matchbook 2017 The Arsonist Red Blend nose. The palate’s buoyant flavors of raspberry and Graciano. Clean and polished tannins frame flavors 92 (California). For full review see page 13. cranberry are sprinkled with dried sage and chapar- of black plum, dried violet and potpourri, and those abv: 13.9% Price: $22

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BUYINGGUIDE

McKinney 2017 Tuscan Nights (Santa Bar­ into the palate, where black-raspberry and black- Municipal Winemakers 2017 Dark Red Wine 92 bara County). For full review see page 13. plum flavors show. —M.K. 91 (Santa Barbara County). Smoked boysen- abv: 14.2% Price: $75 abv: 13.2% Price: $49 berry, pencil-shavings, dried sage and wood-spice aromas show on the nose of this blend of 60% Cab- Midnight 2017 Mare Nectaris (Paso Robles). Caliza 2017 Sympatico (Paso Robles Willow ernet Sauvignon, 33% Syrah and 7% Alvarahao. 92 Roast beef, soy, candied blackberry, black 91 Creek District). Candied berry, blackberry- Roasted black-plum, black-cherry, cola and vanilla plum and an elegant line of purple flowers show on sorbet and mint aromas are mellow on the nose of flavors make for a full and cohesive palate. —M.K. the nose of this blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, this blend of 72% Tempranillo, 16% Mourvèdre and abv: 14.1% Price: $34 15% Merlot, 15% Malbec, 15% Petite Verdot and 12% Grenache. Black-plum and blackberry flavors 5% Cabernet Franc. Polished tannins showcase meet with earthy herbs and roasted meat on the pal- Patel 2017 Red (Napa Valley). This com- flavors of roasted strawberry and mulberry, with ate, where a firm texture holds deep into the finish. 91 bines Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot into a ample black-pepper spice adding nuance. —M.K. —M.K. seamless whole, still tightly wound in tannins and abv: 15.5% Price: $60 abv: 15.5% Price: $60 encased in refined oak. Made in small amounts, it reveals seasonings of cedar, pencil shavings, red Piocho 2016 Reserve (Happy Canyon of ­Santa Calluna 2016 Calluna Vineyards Cuvée (Chalk currant and cherry, powerfully built with a thread 92 Barbara). This reserve blend, led by 80% 91 Hill). Led by 49% Merlot, this blends in 26% of acidity. —V.B. Cabernet Franc, begins with aromas of smashed red Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 8% abv: 14.9% Price: $75 and black berries, lavender extract and a crunchy Malbec and 7% Petit Verdot. Earthy in sage and tartness. The purple-flower elements cruise across woody earth, it is structured and chalky in tannin, Piocho 2017 Red (Happy Canyon of Santa the palate, with white pepper and aromatic herbs with refined red fruit. —V.B. 91 Barbara).­ Dried cranberry and strawberry in the background. The tight grippy tannins will abv: 14.3% Price: $33 aromas meet with charred wood and pencil shav- last a long time. Drink now through 2036. Cellar ings on the nose of this blend of 35% Cabernet Selection. —M.K. Delta 2018 Red (Napa Valley). This is a heck Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc, abv: 14% Price: $45 91 of a wine, immeasurably drinkable and juicy 6% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot. There is a strong in black cherry and currant, with a fleshy roundness structure to the palate, upholding the dark black- Spicerack 2018 G-S-M (Santa Barbara to the texture. Balanced with just enough weight, berry, charred fudge and black-olive flavors. —M.K. 92 County­ -Mendocino County). Layered and it has secondary aspects of cedar, black pepper and abv: 13.7% Price: $32 rich with dark-fruit flavors, this full-bodied wine toasted oak that impress on the finish.Editors’ made from Syrah, Mourvédre and Grenache is con- Choice. —V.B. Sol Rouge 2016 The Keep (Red Hills). Super- centrated and seductive. Moderate tannins and a abv: 14.5% Price: $25 91 ripe and concentrated fruit flavors give this supple texture build a broad mouthfeel that helps full-bodied wine a big profile. Blackberry, black all the wonderful fruity, spicy characters spread out Doffo 2017 Mistura (Temecula Valley). Lightly cherry and a touch of balsamic stand out on a rich, on the palate and linger on the finish. —J.G. 91 baked boysenberry aromas meet with turned mouthfilling texture. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $23 earth and wet rocks on the nose of this blend of abv: 14.5% Price: $60 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Syrah. There Tablas Creek 2018 Patelin de Tablas (Paso are clean and herbal flavors of wild thyme and mint Acaibo 2016 Red (Sonoma County). A blend 92 Robles). There’s a strongly stony streak on on the palate, where a dark-strawberry core meets 90 of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet the nose of this blend of 40% Syrah, 33% ­Grenache, with slightly charred meats. —M.K. Franc and 10% Merlot from the French-based Lurton 21% Mourvèdre, 3% Counoise and 3% Terret Noir, abv: 13.9% Price: $62 family, this wine is classically structured and grace- which also offers dried berry and purple-flower aro- ful. Leather, black pepper, black currant and woody mas. The palate is earthy and full of rocky flavors, Drew 2017 The Field Blend G-S-M (Mendocino oak have an earthy thread that will appeal to fans of yet also offers black-raspberry, red-plum and wild 91 Ridge). This firm-textured, tannic wine is the the style. —V.B. herb elements. —M.K. first Drew GSM we’ve tasted, and it captures plenty abv: 14% Price: $75 abv: 13% Price: $25 of black-fruit flavors lifted by good acidity. It seems more lean than the winery’s Syrahs in recent vin- Asuncion Ridge 2016 Inception Cabernet Trione 2016 Henry’s Blend Geyserville Ranch tages and may need time to mellow. Best from 2024. 90 Sauvignon-Syrah (Paso Robles). ­Blackberry, 92 (Alexander Valley). For full review see page —J.G. sandalwood, black plum and a hint of balsamic 14. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 ­reduction show on the nose of this Cab-led bot- abv: 14.7% Price: $58 tling, which includes 10% Syrah. Dried plum and Jeff Cohn 2017 Smoke and Mirrors (Sonoma blueberry flavors are lifted by dried oregano, vanilla Villa Creek 2018 Cherry House (Paso Robles). 91 County). Textured, powerful and velvety, this and clove on the sip, where he texture holds tense. 92 Soft aromas of polished red cherry, licorice, combines 60% Zinfandel with 28% Syrah, 6% —M.K. red flowers and wet gravel show on the nose of this ­Petite Sirah and 6% Grenache. Aged in mostly con- abv: 14.2% Price: $65 new offering from proprietor Cris Cherry. The core crete and large-format barrels, it is characterized by of dark-red fruits are lifted by carnation and rose iron, garrigue and blueberry jam. —V.B. Cornerstone 2016 Oakville Station flavors, with firm tannins and a light licorice pop on abv: 14.9% Price: $25 90 (Oakville). The tannic intensity of this the finish. —M.K. wine is complemented by dense, dark layers of black abv: 14.9% Price: $25 Le Casque 2017 Adrian (Sierra Foothills). Con- cherry, currant and oak. Elongated, it shows well- 91 centrated, ripe and round, this full-bodied integrated ripeness and a length of black pepper, Barrack 2017 Brand (Happy Canyon of Santa blend of Mourvèdre, Syrah and Grenache packs a sage and cedar. —V.B. 91 Barbara). Tart and crunchy cranberry and full load of berry and late picked cherry flavors and abv: 14.5% Price: $120 raspberry-fruit tones are met with black-pepper wraps them in a smooth texture. It has a nice sense and wood-oil aromas on the nose of this Merlot-led of layering from fine-grained tannins and good Crux 2017 G-S-M (Russian River Valley). blend, which includes little bits of the other four length on the finish. —J.G. 90 Bringing together 60% Grenache, 23% Bordeaux grapes as well. The woody element carries abv: 15.3% Price: $30 Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre and 2% Petite Sirah, a forceful combination of gamy meat and perfumed rose and violet. Soft and velvety, it layers t­ogether

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 lush strawberry, blackberry and white pepper. Thacher 2016 Original Copy (Central Coast). cous jammy intensity, this is a gulpable red brim- —V.B. 90 Strongly herbal tones of oregano and dried ming in fleshy black fruit. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $45 sage meet with punchy black currant and lighter red abv: 15% Price: $45 fruits on the nose of this blend of 66% Cabernet Crux 2016 G-S-M (Russian River Valley). Sauvignon and 34% Cabernet Franc. Tart and tangy Asuncion Ridge 2016 3 Sum (Paso Robles). 90 Combining 56% Grenache, 26% Syrah flavors of black plum meet with a pinch of lavender 88 Dark-plum, smoked berry, leather and and 18% Mourvèdre from different sites, this is a on the palate. —M.K. turned earth aromas show on the nose of this blend thick, concentrated wine. The tannins are forceful abv: 14.8% Price: $60 of 70% Zinfandel, 15% Syrah and 15% Cabernet but softening, with rich layers of plum, orange and Sauvignon. Baked berry and cherry flavors lead gamy meat. —V.B. Trail 3150 2016 Proprietary (Oak Knoll the sip, where clove, licorice and vanilla flavors fly abv: 14.3% Price: $45 90 District).­ Soft and roundly approachable, t­oward the finish. —M.K. this tastes of baked plum, fig and sweet oak, the full- abv: 15.7% Price: $40 Doffo 2017 Salute (California). This rich bodied weight integrating well within supple tannin 90 and unctuous blend of 60% Petite Sirah structure and savory secondary character. —V.B. Brecon Estate 2017 Red (Adelaida District). and 40% Malbec offers concentrated black-currant, abv: 14.5% Price: $60 88 This unique blend of Syrah and Tannat­ leather, toast and fennel-frond aromas on the nose. starts with aromas of teriyaki, beef jerky and car- A compellingly firm structure grabs hold of the pal- Vie Winery 2016 L’Etranger (North Coast). amelized fruits. The palate is full of dried fruit ate and delivers more black-fruit and roasted licorice 90 Flavors of dark chocolate and late-picked ­flavors, with black-plum and wild berry elements flavors. —M.K. fruit dominate this very full-bodied, brooding and spiced up by a pinch of licorice. —M.K. abv: 13.4% Price: $65 broad-textured wine. It’s bold and rich enough to be abv: 14.8% Price: $58 an after-dinner drink. —J.G. Girard 2017 Artistry (Napa Valley). This is abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Doffo 2017 Motodoffo Gran Tinto (Temecula 90 made from a majority of Cabernet Sauvi- 88 Valley). Loads of fennel and licorice spice gnon and Merlot, with smaller percentages of Petit Anarchist Wine Co. 2016 Conspiracy Theory meet with white sage and black plum on the nose of Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Fruit forward, 89 (North Coast). This full-bodied concen- this blend of 85% Zinfandel and 15% Petite Sirah, it offers bold, brawny black fruit, char and toasted trated and moderately tannic wine is nicely dry, which come in a stylishly frosted bottle. The palate oak. Wraparound tannins are accented in a touch of well-structured and impressive. It has the deep pairs the anise tones with roasted red fruit, and is dried herb and earth. —V.B. black-fruit flavors and velvety tannins to stand up quite ripe, nearing sweetness. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $47 to the richest meaty or and cheesy dishes. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $52 abv: 14.5% Price: $38 Hayes Valley 2018 Meritage (Central Coast). Fess Parker NV Frontier Red Lot 91 (Central 90 This is a screaming deal of a Bordeaux blend. Bota Box 2018 Red (California). This deep- 88 Coast). Roasted berries and baked earth Light aromas of cherry, oregano, marjoram and black 89 colored and concentrated wine packs in aromas show on the nose of this nonvintage blend pepper lead into a complex palate of blackberry and ­ample black-fruit flavors and supports them with that recalls the winery founder’s acting days. The more dried herbs. The light body rests on a ­pleasantly firm tannins. Baking spices and cedar add complex- palate is grippy in texture, delivering flavors of dark stiff frame with buoyantacidity. ­ Best Buy. —M.K. ity to the core of tasty berries. Best Buy. —J.G. berry, toasted wood and warm vanilla. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $23/3 L abv: 14.5% Price: $15

Nectar Of The Dogs NV CCF Mikmurphy Clos La Chance 2018 22 Pirates (Central Foxen 7200 2017 Pajarito (Happy Canyon of 90 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 20. 89 Coast). This kitchen-sink blend starts with 88 Santa Barbara). Snappy boysenberry aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $43 aromas of strawberry sorbet and dark mint on the mas meet with savory tobacco-leaf elements on the fresh and spicy nose. The palate is very ripe and nose of this evenly split blend of Petit Verdot and Opaque 2017 Darkness (Paso Robles). For leans toward sweetness, but the flavors of straw- Merlot. Slightly sour black-plum flavors are joined 90 full review see page 20. berry, plum and tarragon are quite pleasant. —M.K. by lavender, sage and toasted wood on the sip. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $19 —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $46 Opolo 2017 Rhapsody (Paso Robles). ­Roasted Dashe Cellars 2018 Delta Reds (California). 90 black currant, black plum, dark cocoa and 89 Tangy and attractive, this vibrant wine Foxen 7200 2017 Range 30 West (Happy a hint of smoke show on the nose of this Bordeaux ­offers tasty raspberry and red-cherry flavors, light 88 Canyon of Santa Barbara). This blend of blend. Soft, chalky tannins frame the mocha- and tannins and fresh acidity. Blended from mostly 61% Cabernet Franc and 39% Merlot starts with caramel-laced sip, where rich black cherry forms Carignan, Tannat and Teroldego, it’s a great choice lighter cranberry, saddle-leather and dust aromas. the core flavor. —M.K. for pairing with first courses and lighter entrées. The palate is delicate, offering sour cherry and more abv: 14.9% Price: $50 —J.G. leather touches. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $24 abv: 14% Price: $34 Spicy Vines 2016 Edge (Dry Creek Valley). 90 This is a old-vine field blend of Cinsault, Tooth & Nail 2016 The Fiend (Paso Robles). Enkidu 2017 Humbaba (Sonoma County- Carignan, Grenache, Zinfandel and Syrah. Earthy 89 Deep and hearty aromas of blackberry, 88 Lake County). Equal parts Petite Sirah in strawberry, it is lushly textured in dust and oak, baked earth and charred meat show on the nose and Syrah are joined by 15% Grenache and 5% with a juicy core of black and red berry. The oak is of this blend of 51% Merlot, 32% Petite Sirah and ­Mourvèdre, the fruit from both appellations. Mint, a combination of American and French, a minority 17% Cabernet Sauvignon. Roasted berry and meat dill and black olive highlight a thick, tannic middle of it new. —V.B. flavors meet with red flowers on the palate, which is of ripeness and brawny blackberry. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $42 dry and well structured. —M.K. abv: 15.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.8% Price: $30 St. Huberts The Stag 2017 Red (Paso ­Robles). Michael David 2018 Lodi Red (Lodi). Quite 90 For full review see page 21. 1849 Wine Company 2017 Triumph (Sonoma 88 concentrated but also fresh and lively, this abv: 14.8% Price: $20 88 County). Full bodied and fruity, with vis- deeply colored and moderately tannic wine oozes

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BUYINGGUIDE blackberry-jam and blueberry flavors. It’s exuberant Beringer 2017 Rye Barrel Aged (California). bottling, which includes 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and hard to resist. —J.G. 84 Heavy flavors of cedar, wood char and sawn does so with aromas of crushed rocks, blackberry abv: 15% Price: $15 oak blanket this full-bodied and otherwise jammy- and violet on the nose. The palate is rich and deep tasting wine that’s based on 52% Pinot Noir. —J.G. with flavors of black currant, blueberry and nutmeg Noceto NV Rosso (Amador County). This abv: 14.5% Price: $20 spice. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 88 full-bodied and easy-going wine tastes ripe abv: 14.5% Price: $35 and jammy, offers strawberry and red-plum flavors Frey 2019 Chateau Frey (Mendocino). Dry and light tannins for a slight grip in the texture. 84 and full bodied, this wine offers potent Matela 2013 Le Bon Climat Vineyard Teroldego —J.G. blackberry, earth and char flavors bolstered by light 91 (Santa Barbara County). Made from a little- abv: 14% Price: $22 tannins. —J.G. seen grape, at least in the New World, this is always abv: 14% Price: $15 a fascinating wine to try, and it begins with aromas Provenance Vineyards 2017 Deadeye (Napa of darkly roasted berry, black-plum skins and dried 88 Valley). Made from a mix of Merlot, ­Malbec, rose petals. Even at this age, there is a strong tannic Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Syrah, this OTHER RED WINES edge to the palate, where blueberry and blackberry wine is hearty and brawny in blue fruit and a sweet- are spiced by mace, clove and cola into the firm ness of tannin. Ripe, round and rich, it has moder- Dashe Cellars 2017 Les Enfants Terribles ­finish. —M.K. ate structure and soft layers of texture. —V.B. 93 Evangelho Vineyard Old Vines Carignane abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 15.3% Price: $60 (Contra Costa County). This remarkable wine has intensely focused and gorgeous fruit flavors and a Prima Materia 2018 Vinum in Agris Negro­ Vintage Cowboy 2017 Manchego’s Fate silky texture due to very light tannins. It’s big in 91 amaro (Kelsey Bench). Meaty, gamy aromas 88 (San Luis Obispo County). Crushed slate, terms of concentrated black cherry and blackberry and rich plummy flavors make this full-bodied graphite, charred wood, blackberry, black-olive and flavors, but beautifully polished and ready to drink. wine likeable and different. It feels extra smooth in tea-leaf aromas show on the nose of this blend of —J.G. texture, low in tannins but high in fruit and subtle 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% abv: 13.8% Price: $32 ­peppery spices. —J.G. Zinfandel. The palate is more candied and tangy, abv: 14.1% Price: $28 with Concord grape, lavender, balsamic and oregano Clementine Carter 2018 Graciano (Santa flavors. —M.K. 92 Ynez Valley). The many acres of unknow- Terra d’Oro 2018 Aglianico (Amador County). abv: 15% Price: $28 ingly planted Graciano that everyone thought was 91 This full-bodied muscular wine is bold in Mourvèdre are starting to bear fruit, and this bot- flavor and moderately tannic in texture, offering Stephen Vincent 2018 Crimson (North tling shows why many are embracing the goof. Aro- mineral, pepper and smoke nuances along with rich 87 Coast). Deep, ripe blackberries and sweet- mas of intense blueberry, boysenberry and purple blackberry and black cherry. It nicely balances ele- seeming baking spices make an attractive combo in flowers are both bright and dark. The texture is ments of strength and complexity. —J.G. this full-bodied superfruity wine. —J.G. stony and fresh, with more dark fruit and wet gravel abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $15 flavors.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $48 Thacher 2019 Nouveau Shell Creek Vineyards Avalon 2017 Red Blend (California). For full 91 Valdiguié (Paso Robles). This nouveau-style 86 review see page 24. Best Buy. Michael David 2018 Ancient Vines Bechthold Valdiguié is as unique as wine comes these days, abv: 13.5% Price: $11 92 Vineyard Cinsault (Lodi). A wonderful floral starting with crisp aromas of raspberry, strawberry,­ aroma and abundant fruit and spice flavors make dark melon and wild herbs. The vibrant palate, which Mount Bullion Vineyard 2014 Casto Oaks this smooth and polished wine almost irresistible. is great chilled, is framed with an edgy texture, deliv- 86 Man’s Best Friend (Sierra Foothills). Bold It has a charming freshness and fruitiness backed by ering boysenberry-jam and black-raspberry flavors. fruit aromas and touches of VA and bottle bouquet good acidity and layers of flavor. —J.G. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. mark this wine as mature and ready to drink. It’s abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 10.2% Price: $28 full bodied, oaky and a bit rustic. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $27 Terra d’Oro 2018 Teroldego (Amador C­ounty). Croma Vera 2017 Maduro Tempranillo (Paso 92 This full-bodied, bold wine is rich in color, 89 Robles). Deep and dark aromas of cherry, Beringer 2017 Bourbon Barrel Aged (Califor­ flavor and texture, showing a black hue with deep wood spice and slightly sour tar start the nose of 85 nia). This rich, jammy and slightly sweet ruby rim, aromas of cooked blueberries and dark this bottling. The palate combines black plum, pot- wine is full of ripe berry flavors and has a mouthfill- chocolate, and generous black-fruit flavors wrapped ting soil, crushed rocks and a leather element, lead- ing texture. It’s simple, fruity and full bodied. —J.G. in dense fine-grained tannins. Best through 2026. ing into a toasty vanilla finish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Pacific Redwood NV Organic (California). Kessler-Haak 2016 Nebbiolo (Santa Barbara 85 This medium-bodied wine bursts with 2 Plank 2016 Barbera (San Diego County). 89 County). A mix of tar and bright raspberry ­jammy grapey aromas that lead to similar fresh 91 Black raspberry, roasted fennel bulb and a kick off the nose of this bottling, which leads into flavors and a lively texture. It’s pretty much pure, hint of light clove appear on the nose of this bot- warmer aromas of vanilla and baking spice. ­Rounded straight-ahead tasty berries and plums. No added tling, which shows strong promise for this Southern flavors of roasted strawberry and red plum meet sulfites.Best Buy. —J.G. California region. There is a strong peppery spice to with sandalwood and light cardamom the palate.­ abv: 13.9% Price: $10 the palate, where rose petals, roasted strawberries —M.K. and charred cherries ride strong acid into the finish. abv: 15.5% Price: $50 Three Thieves 2018 Red (California). S o ft Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 85 and smooth, this lightly sweet wine has abv: 13% Price: $29 Prima Materia 2016 Refosco (Kelsey Bench). generous berry and cherry flavors and a medium 88 This wine is deep in color, bold in flavors body. —J.G. Cavaletti 2018 Swayze Vineyard Alicante and firm in texture, offering focused blackberry and abv: 13.5% Price: $11 91 Bouschet (Los Angeles County). Winemaker black pepper and moderate tannins. It needs rich Patrick Kelley is amplifying the potential for Los Angeles County vineyards like few others, and this

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 proteins to pair with and should be best after 2023. yuzu zest, chamomile and crushed sea-shell flavors. with kiwi and restrained guava, wrapped up in a —J.G. —M.K. delicate texture. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $38 abv: 12.8% Price: $42 abv: 13.9% Price: $38

Hartford Court 2017 Jennifer’s Chardonnay Anaba 2017 J McK Estate Vineyard Chardon­ CHARDONNAY 95 (Russian River Valley). From a late-ripening 93 nay (Carneros). Seamless and velvety in site in the cool, windy Sebastopol Hills, Jennifer’s mango, apple and lemon chiffon, this wine has a Hartford Court 2017 Stone Cote Vineyard gives off a rounded richness and voluptuous texture, medium-weighted body and balanced creaminess. 97 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This is from alongside flavors of pear compote and baking spice. An enduring thread of bright acidity lifts and main- an estate block within the original Durell Vineyard, Classically structured and racy, it has undeniable tains enduring freshness. —V.B. 100% barrel fermented and aged, only 27% of the weight and concentration that taste unexpectedly abv: 13.8% Price: $46 French oak new. Complex and exotic in baked pear, light on the palate. —V.B. nuts, tangerine and crushed rock, it offers a fulsome abv: 14.7% Price: $65 Copain Wines 2017 DuPratt Chardonnay richness balanced by mineral-laden tension and 93 (Anderson­ Valley). Not your average buttery lasting acidity. —V.B. Hartford Court 2017 Three Jacks Vineyard Chardonnay, this dry, subtle and bracing wine is abv: 14.4% Price: $65 95 Chardonnay (Green Valley). From a site driven by minerality, as a chalky and almost metal- planted in 1995 to a myriad of clones, Three Jacks lic sensation dominates subtle apple, almond and Hartford Court 2017 Far Coast Vineyard is richly woven in a mix of tropical pineapple, suc- lemon-zest notes. Best through 2025. —J.G. 96 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). From a far culent peach and crème brûlée. The mix contrasts abv: 13.1% Price: $50 coastal site dipped in Goldridge soils at 700-feet well, offering both richness and juicy freshness, elevation, this white is adorned in mineral-laden compelling in the glass in lengthy tension and grace. Domaine Della 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma earth, stone and briny fog. Pear, vanilla and orange —V.B. 93 Coast). Quenching in crisp acidity while peel contrast a refined richness, buzzing in tension abv: 14.2% Price: $65 offering robustly opulent layers of pear and peach, and acidity. —V.B. this wine finds a happy balance through its undeni- abv: 13.5% Price: $65 Scar of the Sea 2018 Rancho Tepusquet Char­ able richness, the oak well integrated and bursting 95 donnay (Santa Maria Valley). From own- in baking spice and vanilla bean. —V.B. Hartford Court 2017 Fog Dance Vineyard rooted vines planted in 1973, this bottling offers abv: 14.5% Price: $65 96 Chardonnay (Green Valley). Intensely fla- aromas of Asian pear, strong chalk, jicama and soft vored and full bodied in style, this wine shows butter. The palate is incredibly crisp, clean chalky Eden Rift 2018 Terraces Chardonnay (Cienega golden oak, honey and flint, with a floral earthiness and tense, with tightly wound flavors of lime pith, 93 Valley). Lemon balm, light mint, acacia throughout. Fig, pear and quince dance around the talc, more jicama and loads of white-fleshed fruits. flower and a light hint of oak make for a very sooth- opulence and texture, as forest mushroom and a —M.K. ing nose on this bottling. The palate is chiseled in touch of spice tease on the finish. —V.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $38 structure and vibrant, with penetrating acidity, abv: 14.6% Price: $65 combining flavors of lemon balm, sandalwood and Benovia 2018 Chardonnay (Russian River toasted almond. —M.K. Benovia 2018 Martaella Chardonnay (Rus­ 94 Valley). For full review see page 6. abv: 13.9% Price: $54 95 sian River Valley). For full review see page 4. abv: 14.1% Price: $42 abv: 14.3% Price: $55 Flowers 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Domaine Della 2018 Ritchie Vineyard Char­ 93 Bursting with fresh, salty acidity, this appel- Benovia 2018 Three Sisters Chardonnay 94 donnay (Russian River Valley). Mineral- lation wine conjures the coast from which it comes, 95 (Fort Ross-Seaview). From a coastal site laden earthiness underlies a richly textured and offering beguilingly soft layers of elegant richness. farmed by the Martinelli family, this impresses in lengthy expression of ample tropical and stone fruit Apple, pear, nutmeg and a whiff of lemon meringue its grasp of white flower and sea spray. The pal- in this impressive vineyard designate. Baking spice play well on the palate, with plenty of length and ate reveals juicy nectarine and pear with a hint and baked pear complete the cohesive picture of breadth to impress. —V.B. of crushed rock, a sprinkling of baking spice and full-bodied power and grace. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 lemon meringue. It is both beautifully complex and abv: 14.5% Price: $78 elegant. —V.B. Niner 2017 Jespersen Ranch Reserve Char­ abv: 14.2% Price: $55 Hartford Court 2017 Sevens Bench Vineyard 93 donnay (Edna Valley). There’s a compelling 94 Chardonnay (Carneros). Hearty and robust, tightness to the nose of this bottling, where aromas Copain Wines 2018 Skycrest Chardonnay this wine tastes of tropical honey, brioche and cara- of melon and citrus pith meet with a touch of sea 95 (Anderson Valley). A tempting fresh-bread mel. Thickly concentrated, it retains enough acidity salt. It’s smooth and easy on the palate, where light aroma tops this ripe, buttery and creamy-textured to balance and complement the richness, deftly rep- pineapple flavors meet with pleasantly briny ele- wine that is medium bodied and beautifully con- resented by a lasting character of lemon meringue. ments, all clinging to a taut frame. —M.K. centrated. It offers complexity of flavor, as notes of —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $50 earth and mineral join in, and a rich lingering fin- abv: 13.9% Price: $65 ish. Built to improve with age, it should keep gaining Sanford 2018 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). through at least 2028. Cellar Selection. —J.G. Albatross Ridge 2018 Cuvée Béton Estate 93 Crisp and chalky on the nose, this appella- abv: 13.1% Price: $50 93 Grown Chardonnay (Monterey). For full tion blend offers aromas of grapefruit peel, white- review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. fleshed fruits and a light touch of wood. The sip siz- Donnachadh 2017 Estate Chardonnay (Sta. abv: 13% Price: $45 zle with acid, offering flavors of seared lime, brine 95 Rita Hills). Meyer lemon, crisp jicama, light and rounded white peach. —M.K. mint and chipped oak aromas show on the very Alma Rosa 2017 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). abv: 13.5% Price: $40 exciting and inviting nose of this bottling from a 93 Especially for an appellation blend, this is new vineyard on the southern side of the Sta. Rita a wondrous, regionally indicative bottling, starting Stolo 2018 Chardonnay (San Luis Obispo Hills. The light kiss of oak on the palate frames with clean and fresh aromas of honeysuckle, Asian 93 County).­ Brisk aromas of Asian pear flesh, pear and lime pith. There’s a flashy sizzle of acidity light crème fraiche and a hint of salt make for a clean on the sip, where lily and honeysuckle flavors meet and fresh nose on this bottling. There’s a streak of

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BUYINGGUIDE grapefruit peel and warmer peach flavors on the a unique and compelling expression of the grape. citrus flesh, yet with warmer elements of blanched palate, where high-toned acidity cuts through the —M.K. cashew and light butter in the background. —M.K. aromatic apple and warm brioche flavors. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $25 abv: 13.3% Price: $54 abv: 13.2% Price: $30 Copain Wines 2017 Les Voisins ­Chardonnay Sangiacomo 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma Talbott 2017 Audrey Diamond T Vineyard 92 (Anderson­ Valley). This layered wine 92 Coast). For full review see page 14. 93 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Monterey). For comes from the neighbors’ grapes, largely the noted abv: 14.3% Price: $55 full review see page 10. ­Ferrington Vineyard, and offers enticing apple-pie abv: 14.4% Price: $75 aromas, ripe and zesty citrus and apple-skin flavors Sarah’s Vineyard 2018 Tondre Grapefield and a nicely tangy, almost chewy texture. Aged in 92 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Talbott 2017 Diamond T Vineyard Estate 95% used oak barrels, it’s a complex and tempting Tightly wound aromas of Gravenstein apple, lemon 93 Grown Chardonnay (Monterey). For full wine. Editors’­ Choice. —J.G. spray, honeysuckle and macadamia nut show on the review see page 11. abv: 13.4% Price: $36 inviting nose of this bottling. There is strong texture abv: 14.4% Price: $52 to the sip, where sea-salt and white-peach flavors FEL 2018 Chardonnay (Anderson Valley). For are wrapped up in a chalky frame, leading toward a Tongue Dancer 2018 Pratt Vineyard Irwin 92 full review see page 12. grapefruit-pith finish. —M.K. 93 Lane Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). abv: 13.6% Price: $32 abv: 13.9% Price: $36 Fleshy, floral­ and fruity, with a dense core of Gra- venstein apple, pear and apricot, this wine is round Gainey 2018 Limited Selection Chardonnay Trombetta 2018 Four Brothers Vineyard and richly layered. The texture is opulent and mem- 92 (Sta. Rita Hills). Zesty lemon-balm aromas 92 Chardonnay (Sonoma Mountain). Dark gold orable, while an uplift of acidity keeps it fresh and lead into light pastry, acacia flower and seared in color, this wine is perfumed in delicate oak, with balanced in the glass. —V.B. nectarine scents on the nose of this bottling from nuanced aromas of clove and brioche. Uplifted acid- abv: 13.5% Price: $42 the family’s westernmost estates. Polished tannins ity brightens the midpalate of fresh peach, pear and deliver lightly smoky flavors on the palate, where vanilla, finding a hit of power and weight on the fin- Trombetta 2018 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Char­ ripe apple-flesh and sea-salt elements converge. ish. —V.B. 93 donnay (Petaluma Gap). Golden apple, pear —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $50 and brioche flavors present as richly layered and abv: 14.1% Price: $38 lush in texture in this vineyard-designate from the Trombetta 2018 Petersen Vineyard Char­ cool, windswept site. A tropical flirtation persists Iron Horse 2018 Unoaked Chardonnay (Green 92 donnay (Sonoma Coast). Salty stone and a through toasted oak and a hint of vanilla cream. 92 Valley). For full review see page 12. lushness of mango combine well against a cohesive, —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $32 succulent and richly layered whole in this new vine- abv: 14.3% Price: $65 yard designate, given time in both stainless steel Iron Horse 2017 Rued Clone Chardonnay and French oak. The acidity keeps it balanced and Williams Selyem 2018 Heintz Vineyard 92 (Green Valley). For full review see page 12. fresh in the glass. —V.B. 93 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full abv: 13% Price: $57 abv: 13.9% Price: $38 review see page 11. abv: 13.9% Price: $65 Joyce 2018 Escolle Vineyard Chardonnay Walt 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). 92 (­Santa Lucia Highlands). Plump aromas of 92 Demure and focused, this wine is opulently Williams Selyem 2018 Unoaked Chardonnay orange and lemon cream meet with a toasty edge textured in creamy vanilla and pear. A thread of 93 (Russian River Valley). For full review see on the nose of this bottling. There is a crisp sizzle pineapple weaves through the midpalate, nuanced page 11. of acidity on the sip, where orange pith leads into in oak and balanced in weight. Throughout, an effu- abv: 13.6% Price: $39 warmer tones of white melon, jicama and a hint of sive nose of apple and orange blossom permeate. mint, with a lingering texture on the finish. —M.K. —V.B. Anaba 2017 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). abv: 13.3% Price: $35 abv: 14.2% Price: $40 92 Steely with lovely layers of lemon meringue and pear, this wine has a plump midpalate of juicy Peltier 2017 Winemaker’s Select French Oak Williams Selyem 2018 Olivet Lane Vineyard and lasting acidity, the grapes coming from a range 92 Chardonnay (Lodi). Generous baking-spice 92 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full of sites, including Dutton Shop Block and J McK aromas and flavors and full body give this delicious review see page 14. Estate. Oak is integrated and adds a touch of baking wine a big presence. It is nicely concentrated, rich abv: 14.8% Price: $65 spice. —V.B. and complex without overdoing the oak spices. Edi- abv: 13.2% Price: $40 tors’ Choice. —J.G. Albatross Ridge 2018 Estate Chardonnay abv: 14% Price: $21 91 (Monterey). Waxy aromas of orange peel and Anaba 2017 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay crushed walnut make for a savory style on the nose 92 (Sonoma Coast). From two vineyards within Prima Materia 2018 Chardonnay (Kelsey of this bottling. The palate combines the wax and the Dutton portfolio, this wine opens in steely, high- 92 Bench). This mellow and minerally wine walnut tones with baked pear and apple as well toned elements of lemon, lime and fig, with floral brings savory elements to the aromas and flavors as clove, chamomile and light cardamom spices. aromas persistently at the fore. Balanced and light rather than overt fruity ones, giving it an unusual —M.K. in style, it refreshes as much as it impresses. —V.B. and interesting complexity. Earthy tones meet sub- abv: 13% Price: $68 abv: 12.8% Price: $46 tle fennel and lemon flavors on the palate, and good concentration leads to a lingering finish. —J.G. Comartin 2018 R-Bar-R Ranch Chardonnay Bevela 2018 Fractured Emergence Chardon­ abv: 13.8% Price: $25 91 (Santa Cruz Mountains). From a vineyard 92 nay (Santa Barbara County). Damp sandal- 1,100 feet high at the southern end of the appel- wood, chamomile and dried apple aromas make Samsara 2018 Bentrock Vineyard lation, this bottling offers lemon balm, macadamia for an intriguing nose on this bottling. There is a 92 ­Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). The nose on nut, white peach, chamomile and sea salt on the toasted wood aspect to the palate, with underlying this bottling sizzles with aromas of lime peel, tan- umami-laden nose. Strong flavors of dried honey- streaks of pine needle and lemon peel, making for gerine zest and minty shiso. The sip is very grippy and textural, showing flavors of yuzu zest and fresh

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 suckle, orange peel and roasted apples lead into a Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2018 Karia Chardon­ vors consume the palate, from pecans and roasted waxy finish. —M.K. 91 nay (Napa Valley). This is an opulent, struc- apple to peanut brittle on the finish. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $44 tured and mineral-driven white wine, richly layered abv: 14.2% Price: $44 and robustly built with weight and ample body. Bri- De Loach 2017 Hawk Hill Chardonnay (Green oche, honeycomb and baked apple meet a comple- Cottonwood Canyon 2018 Chardonnay 91 Valley). Luscious, layered and rich in butter- ment of fresh acidity and a lasting note of stone. 90 (Santa Maria Valley). Strongly nutty aro- scotch, toast and nutmeg, this vineyard designate is —V.B. mas of cashew and macadamia nut lead into lemon influenced by its cool-climate provenance in last- abv: 14.5% Price: $34 balm, hot sand and wax aromas on the nose of this ing acidity and a twist of mineral, which helps to bottling by pioneer Norman Beko. The dynamic pal- balance the bolder flavors of mango and baked pear. Stringer 2018 John Sebastiano Vineyard Char­ ate combines beeswax and orange rind with light —V.B. 91 donnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Clean and smooth mint, salt and honey flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $52 aromas of yellow peach, honey butter, pineapple, abv: 13.1% Price: $38 toast and chalk show on the nose of this bottling. De Loach 2017 Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay The palate is taut and fresh with crisp flavors of Cycles Gladiator 2018 Chardonnay (Califor­ 91 (Green Valley). With an inviting nose of but- Gravenstein apple, nectarine and a pinch of vanilla. 90 nia). For full review see page 23. Best Buy. terscotch and sea air, this lengthy and broadly con- —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $13 centrated wine is brimming in lush flavors of peach abv: 13.7% Price: $35 and pineapple. The juicy richness persists and is Ferrari-Carano 2017 Reserve Chardonnay lifted by complementary acidity and a wealth of Talbott 2017 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Estate 90 (Carneros). Richly layered in honeycomb toasted oak. —V.B. 91 Grown Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). and baked apple, this wine is powerfully built and abv: 14.5% Price: $52 For full review see page 17. viscous on the palate, with a lasting weight and abv: 14.6% Price: $42 breadth. Made in a full-bodied, lush style, it deliv- Diora 2018 Le Splendeur du Soleil Chardonnay ers creamy, buttery opulence and toasted oak. —V.B. 91 (Monterey). For full review see page 15. Trombetta 2018 Indindoli Vineyard Chardon­ abv: 14.2% Price: $34 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 91 nay (Russian River Valley). Rich, tropical lay- ers of pineapple, guava and melon are balanced by a Holman Ranch 2016 Jarman Chardonnay Eden Rift 2018 Estate Chardonnay (Cienega persistence of acidity that helps to cut through the 90 (Carmel Valley). There’s a light touch of 91 Valley). Salty lemon- and orange-peel aromas wine’s overall concentration. Salt and baking spice wood on the nose of this bottling alongside brushes meet with grippy chalk and the hint of stuck match accent it well, giving it additional energy and verve. of honey, chamomile tea, beach sand and pear flesh. on the nose of this bottling. There is a stony quality —V.B. Tightly woven flavors of Asian pear, exotic apple and to the sip, where lime-pith and seared orange-slice abv: 14.1% Price: $50 lemon peel on the palate lead into a honeyed finish, flavors arise. —M.K. as the wine’s age is just starting to show. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $42 Baileyana 2018 Firepeak Chardonnay (Edna abv: 13.8% Price: $47 90 Valley). For full review see page 18. Four Vines 2018 Naked Chardonnay (Central abv: 13.9% Price: $28 Iron Horse 2017 Heritage Chardonnay (Green 91 Coast). There’s a vibrant sense of crisp Asian 90 Valley). From estate vines planted to the pear flesh, citrus blossom and light mint on the nose Buena Vista 2018 Chateau Buena Vista Hyde Old Wente clone, this white is understated of this very affordable bottling. The palate is tightly 90 Chardonnay (Carneros). Nutty and robust, and elegant in style and approach. Apple, mango wound with melon rind, lime pith, pear flesh and a this wine is well structured within its fleshy, oak- and lime commingle along a refined palate of inte- slight hint of guava. —M.K. driven profile of full-bodied concentration and grated oak and balanced ripeness. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 intensity. Pineapple and mango dominate with a abv: 13.5% Price: $57 thread of salinity peeking through the finish. —V.B. Iron Horse 2017 Heart of the Vineyard Char­ abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Iron Horse 2017 Two Clones Chardonnay 91 donnay (Green Valley). For full review see 90 (Green Valley). From vines planted both to page 16. Buoyant 2018 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia the Hyde Old Wente and Rued clones, this wine is abv: 13.4% Price: $57 90 Highlands). Mellow aromas of yellow pear, richly layered within a context of enduring fresh- light lemon pith, sliced mandarin and salted almond ness. The acidity lifts an elegant midpalate of pear Iron Horse 2017 Native Yeast Chardonnay show on the nose of this bottling. The palate is also and Meyer lemon. —V.B. 91 (Green Valley). For full review see page 16. delicate, with hints of Asian and yellow pears as abv: 13.3% Price: $57 abv: 13.4% Price: $57 well as underripe pineapple flavors. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $30 Keller Estate 2018 La Cruz Chardonnay (Pet­ Kendric 2018 Proprietor Grown Chardonnay 90 aluma Gap). Thick and richly concentrated, 91 (Petaluma Gap-Marin County). This lively Comartin 2019 Private Reserve Chardon­ this estate-grown wine is burly in pear, pineapple and well-balanced wine also offers rich poached 90 nay (Monterey). Light aromas of honeydew and nutmeg, with the lasting tastiness of butter- pear and butter flavors, and a nicely layered texture rind, white melon and a hint of guava show on the scotch pudding. —V.B. that extends the finish. It’s easy to enjoy the crisp nose of this bottling. It leans tropical on the palate, abv: 14.2% Price: $45 apple, lemon and white-peach nuances in such a where mango, guava and papaya flavors are strong well-sculpted package. —J.G. yet clean and crisp. —M.K. Keller Estate 2018 Precioso Chardonnay abv: 13.7% Price: $28 abv: 13.4% Price: $35 90 (Petaluma Gap). Tight-grained and youth- ful, this is a barrel-selection of the vintage. Sea-salt Niner 2018 Chardonnay (Edna Valley). This is Comartin 2017 R-Bar-R Ranch Chardonnay caramel, pear and mango provide a rich, layered 91 a rich and ripe style of Chardonnay, starting 90 (Santa Cruz Mountains). Quite yellow in the center of bold flavor seasoned in oak and baking with butter, white-peach and sea-salt flavors. Those glass, this bottling begins with blossoming aromas spice. Fresh coastal-influenced acidity keeps it bal- rounded flavors of citrus and stone fruit meet with of chamomile, honey and butterscotch on the nose. anced. —V.B. more toasty oak on the palate, which is clean and After hits of tangerine and citrus spray, toasty fla- abv: 14.1% Price: $75 lush. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

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BUYINGGUIDE

Lola 2017 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). tropical fruit, butter and baking spices. It has great vors, offering sliced apple and lemon-peel elements. 90 Aged in older oak, this wine is light in style acidity and will be best after 2022. —J.G. —M.K. and approach, with perfumed and reductive notes abv: 13.5% Price: $42 abv: 13.8% Price: $50 of honeycomb, pear and brioche. Tight-grained tan- nins accent a subtle richness with steely underbelly. Lorenzi Estate 2018 Dijon Clone 76 Chardon­ Provenance Vineyards 2018 Chardonnay —V.B. 89 nay (Temecula Valley). Aromas of browned 88 (Carneros). Oaky intensity bursts in the abv: 13.4% Price: $22 butter, vanilla and clove spice make for a rich dis- form of nutmeg, cinnamon and vanilla in this opu- play of Chardonnay in this clonal selection. Toasted lent, tropically sweet white wine. Baked apple and MacRostie 2018 Tollini Vineyard Chardonnay brioche, butter and nut-spread flavors show on the peach add to the fruity nature of its weight and 90 (Redwood Valley). This wine offers subtle palate, which is cut by sour orange peels. —M.K. richness. —V.B. oak and a whole lot of butter to give it a rich, palate- abv: 14.65% Price: $45 abv: 14.6% Price: $35 clinging expression. It is full bodied, creamy in tex- ture and has a lingering buttery finish. —J.G. Peltier 2018 Unoaked Chardonnay (Lodi). A&D Wines 2018 Chardonnay (North Coast). abv: 14.1% Price: $46 89 Well balanced and palate cleansing, this 87 This wine is wrapped pretty tightly, but has nicely structured wine offers good acidity, fresh and a good structure of acidity to make it food friendly. Olelo 2018 Chardonnay (Central Coast). tempting peach flavors and an appetizing tang on The lemon and green-apple flavors are vibrant but 90 Fresh, clean and lively aromas of lemon- the tongue. —J.G. subtle and the texture is palate cleansing. —J.G. grass, jicama and wet rocks show on the nose of this abv: 13.8% Price: $21 abv: 13% Price: $15 bottling. Ash and chalk flavors are evident on the palate, with rounded nectarine and honeysuckle Avalon 2018 Chardonnay (California). For Beringer 2017 Bourbon Barrel Aged Chardon­ flavors that lead into a tangerine-kissed finish.Best 88 full review see page 24. Best Buy. 87 nay (California). Full bodied and buttery, this Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 wine shows lots of oak influence in the vanilla and abv: 13.5% Price: $15 light wood-char notes, and sports a posh, almost Blair 2017 Delfina’s Vineyard Chardonnay thick texture. —J.G. Sanctuary 2018 Chardonnay (Russian River 88 (Arroyo­ Seco). Dried lemon, white-peach abv: 14.5% Price: $20 90 Valley). Strongly flavored in caramel and and orange-rind aromas come across as a bit botan- French butter, this wine has a light touch of acid- ical on the nose of this bottling. There is zesty fresh- CK Mondavi and Family 2019 Chardonnay ity with full-bodied layers of vanilla oak, pear and ness to the sip, where rounded flavors of melon, 87 (California). For full review see page 24. Best pineapple. Fleshy and textured, it packs a lasting peach and ­almond are cut by seared lemon. —M.K. Buy. punch of richness and roundness. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.4% Price: $7 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Hahn 2018 Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco). Yel- Iconic 2019 Sidekick Chardonnay (California). Talbott 2018 Kali Hart Estate Grown Chardon­ 88 low peach-flesh, lemon-balm and light 87 This wine tastes lively, medium bodied, and 90 nay (Monterey). For full review see page 21. almond aromas show on the nose of this appella- not oaky, relying on crisp citrus flavors and a tangy abv: 14.4% Price: $20 tion blend. Dried lemons, baked apple and a hint of texture for its considerable charm. —J.G. salt arise as flavors on the smooth and easy palate. abv: 14.1% Price: $18 Blair 2017 The Matriarch Delfina’s Vineyard —M.K. 89 Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco). Orange-blossom, abv: 14.3% Price: $20 Portola Vineyards 2018 Chardonnay (Santa quinine, butter-poached peach and rich nut aromas 87 Cruz Mountains). Dark yellow in the glass, show on the nose of this bottling. Sour orange-peel Hahn 2018 SLH Chardonnay (Santa Lucia this is a savory, nutty style of Chardonnay, offering flavors hit the palate alongside cashew cream and 88 Highlands).­ Tight aromas of Meyer lemon aromas of dried orange peel and toasted pecan. The seared lemon elements, with a dash of honeysuckle rind, dried melon and salted nuts show on the nose palate combines dried apple and nut flavors with a on the finish. —M.K. of this appellation blend. There’s a strong acidic tangy citrus acidity. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 kick to the palate, where hints of warm honeysuckle abv: 14.1% Price: $30 and tangy lemon are both rich and tart. —M.K. Bogle 2018 Phantom Chardonnay (Clarks­ abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Nectar Of The Dogs 2015 Chardonnay (Lodi). 89 burg). This is a bold, ripe and lush-textured 86 This full-bodied wine is deep gold in color wine that exudes butter and baking-spice aromas Jamieson Ranch 2018 Whiplash Chardonnay and offers plenty of nutty, buttery flavors on a rich, backed by poached pear flavors. It offers plenty of 88 (California). This buttery, full-bodied wine smooth texture. It seems well along the maturity fruit saturating a soft, round texture. —J.G. is smooth and generous to sip, offering a touch of curve, and is more than ready to drink. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 toasted bread along with vanilla and ripe pear fla- abv: 14.9% Price: $28 vors to add to an attractive buttery expression. Best Four Vines 2017 The Form Chardonnay (Edna Buy. —J.G. Chloe 2017 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). 89 Valley). This is a solid wine for the price, abv: 14% Price: $13 85 Perfumed in sweet oak, this big, ebullient ­offering all that most Chardonnay lovers need for wine is dripping in a richness of vanilla and honey, satisfaction. Aromas of baked apple, poached pear Kendall-Jackson 2019 avant unoaked Char­ with a viscous texture. —V.B. and chamomile lead into a rounded palate of melon, 88 donnay (California). Lots of fresh apple and abv: 14.5% Price: $17 baked peach, marmalade and a touch of dark hazel- a touch of lemon give this medium-bodied wine an nut. Editors’­ Choice. —M.K. appealing, fruity profile, while a touch of good acid- Stephen Vincent 2018 Chardonnay (North abv: 14.5% Price: $18 ity keeps it feeling fresh and well balanced. —J.G. 85 Coast). This medium-bodied wine is rather abv: 13.5% Price: $17 lean in flavor, showing dusty, metallic aromas and Long Meadow Ranch 2017 Chardonnay crisp, green-apple flavors. —J.G. 89 (Anderson Valley). This full-bodied and Martin R­anch 2017 Soulmate Lester Family­ abv: 13.5% Price: $15 assertive wine starts with an earthy, reduced aroma 88 Vineyards Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Moun­ before revealing attractive, concentrated flavors of tains). Freshly sliced Meyer lemon, mango and light Tortoise Creek 2018 Jam’s Blend Chardonnay guava aromas show on the pleasant nose of this bot- 85 (Lodi). Strong toasted oak aromas and fla- tling. The palate is light in texture but full on fla- vors dominate this full-bodied and rich-textured

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 wine. It offers a wallop of oakiness and a spicy, Andis 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Sierra Foot­ and structured, with strong herbal and earthy ele- warm mouthfeel. —J.G. 91 hills). For full review see page 14. ments of wet stone and legume. The finishing touch abv: 14.2% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 is defined in lemon peel, both in flavor and texture. —V.B. Andis 2018 Old Vine Codevilla Vineyard Sau­ abv: 13.2% Price: $24 SAUVIGNON BLANC 91 vignon Blanc (Sierra Foothills). A deft touch of baking spices from partial barrel fermentation in Kendall-Jackson 2019 Vintner’s Reserve Spottswoode 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa- new French oak, and a savory minerality give this 90 Sauvignon Blanc (California). Lots of bright, 94 Sonoma). The producer sources from a medium- to full-bodied wine extra complexity to ripe fruit flavors and great acidity give this full-bod- handful of exceptional sites here, including Hyde in enhance the core of citrus and apple flavors. —J.G. ied wine plenty of charm. Tangy citrus and apricot Carneros and Farina on Sonoma Mountain, as well abv: 14.5% Price: $40 aromas meet zesty but rich flavors in this super­ as its own St. Helena estate. Juicy and lengthy with consistent wine. Best Buy. —J.G. power and substance, it is fresh and well integrated, Dry Creek Vineyard 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry abv: 13.5% Price: $15 blossoming in bright lemon peel, peach and guava. 91 Creek Valley). For full review see page 16. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Niner 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Edna Valley). abv: 14.1% Price: $42 90 Grassy aromas of cut lawn, lime peel and Tilth 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). light cement show on the nose of this bottling. It’s Clos du Val 2019 Estate Sauvignon Blanc 91 Floral and fleshy, this white wine is appeal- very lean and grassy on the palate as well, with 93 (Yountville). Fresh and fruity with depth ing in exotic layers of lychee, green apple and peach, touches of lime peel and a smooth texture. —M.K. and complexity, this brilliant wine is bursting in seemingly conflicting flavors that instead comple- abv: 13.8% Price: $20 grapefruit, tangerine and pineapple, with an herbal ment and overlap. Softly textured, it is nicely bal- undercurrent of lemongrass. A lasting note of peach anced in acidity. —V.B. Peju 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). lingers from the midpalate onward, accentuated by abv: 13.8% Price: $25 90 This is a fresh and unfussy white wine, ­lively the bright, lasting acidity. —V.B. in acidity and lengthy in grapefruit, fig and dried abv: 13.9% Price: $30 Vincent Vineyards 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Los herb. It stays light and bright throughout, offering 91 Olivos District). Very light in the glass, this balanced weight and ripeness. —V.B. Gamble Family Vineyards 2019 Gamble Vine­ bottling begins with aromas of light passion fruit, abv: 13.8% Price: $28 93 yard Sauvignon Blanc (Yountville). Earthy wet stone and lemongrass on the tightly wound nose. and dusty on the nose, this wine explodes into a pal- There’s a compellingly grippy texture on the sip, Picayune 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma- ate of citrus peel, lime and grapefruit, with under- where apple-flesh flavors meet with a wet concrete 90 Napa). The small producer’s 10th vintage lying exoticism in the form of honeysuckle, banana minerality. —M.K. of this wine, this lively white spends time in both and papaya. Lengthy and fresh, it delivers light, bal- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 stainless steel and neutral French oak. Floral and anced flavors that meld and complement, finishing herbal in legume, it evolves to reveal fleshy and in steely wet stone. —V.B. Vincent Vineyards 2018 Concrete Brunette fruity flavors of apricot and peach. —V.B. abv: 13.1% Price: $28 91 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). Faint abv: 14.2% Price: $21 hints of tangerine peel and light lime make for a Mauritson 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek very pleasant and mellow nose on this bottling. Plein Air 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Amador 93 Valley). For full review see page 9. A firm texture on the palate frames flavors of cut 90 County). Light and fresh yet nicely con- abv: 14.1% Price: $27 grass, lime peel, honeydew and peachy nectarine centrated too, this medium-bodied wine combines elements. —M.K. citrus and fresh herb aromas with focused and deep Stewart 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). abv: 14.1% Price: $25 lemon and melon flavors. It comes off as complete 93 Whole-cluster pressed grapes are fermented and well balanced, refreshing and satisfying. —J.G. and aged in stainless steel and neutral oak, leading Bonterra NV Made with Organic Grapes Sau­ abv: 13.5% Price: $24 to tangy citrus- and peach-flavored goodness on the 90 vignon Blanc (California). For full review palate, with an undercurrent of vanilla bean. Fleshy see page 23. Best Buy. Reynoso 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Alexander and lush, the steely acidity balances the richness abv: 13.2% Price: $23/1.5 L 90 Valley). Stone fruit meets lemon, lime and without dampening it completely, leading to a satis- grapefruit-influenced acidity in this brawny, sub- fying, lengthy finish. —V.B. Buttonwood Farm 2019 Zingy Sauvignon stantial white wine. Made in a medium-bodied abv: 13.9% Price: $25 90 Blanc (Los Olivos District). Juicy aromas of style, with flesh on the bones, it delivers balanced ripe apple and bubblegum show on the nose of this richness and lasting fruit flavor. —V.B. Benziger 2019 Paradiso De Maria Sauvignon always zesty bottling. There’s a firm grip to the sip, abv: 14.1% Price: $20 92 Blanc (Sonoma Mountain). Lemony, grainy where easygoing flavors of pear and lime slide toward and freshly wrapped in lime salt, this is a sophisti- the structured finish. —M.K. Shooting Star 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake cated and lengthy white wine, with body and grace. abv: 13% Price: $22 90 County). This attractive and well-balanced A steely finish caps off and underscores the lively wine blends snappy fruit flavors with savory, figgy acidity beneath. —V.B. Gainey 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez and minerally accents that give it depth and inter- abv: 14.1% Price: $36 90 Valley). Mellow on the nose at first, this est. Full body and a crisp texture add to its appeal. wine opens up toward aromas of green chile, deli- Best Buy. —J.G. Storm 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez cate honeysuckle, sweet lemon and warm concrete. abv: 14.2% Price: $15 92 Valley). Very stony aromas of wet cement There’s a mineral hit of wet gravel at first on the sip, lead into riper tones of Asian pear and guava on the before red-apple flesh and ripe melon flavors com- Stolo 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (San Luis nose of this bottling. The palate is very dry and taut, plete the picture. Best Buy. —M.K. 90 Obispo County). Light and bright aromas delivering grassy flavors of green pineapple, lemon- abv: 13.4% Price: $15 of green flower buds, green pear, wet cement and grass and kaffir lime leaf. —M.K. a hint of kelpy seawater show on the nose of this abv: 13% Price: $25 Joseph Jewell 2019 Grist Vineyard Sauvi­ bottling. The palate verges from crisp Alpine creek 90 gnon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Floral and steely more than fruity, this grippy white is light

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BUYINGGUIDE water tones to more oceanic flavors, proving rela- adds complex composure, with high-toned acidity Classic in style, this charming apricot and petrol- tively light in both flavor and texture. —M.K. integrated throughout. —V.B. scented wine fills the palate with white peach and abv: 13.3% Price: $27 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 a touch of lemon-lime while good, nervy acidity wakes up the taste buds for another sip. Editors’ Ryder Estate 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (­Central Navarro 2019 Pinot Blanc (Mendocino). Choice. —J.G. 89 Coast). For full review see page 22. Editors’ 90 Smooth, rich and rounded in texture, this abv: 13% Price: $30 Choice. comfortably fruity wine is most notable for the abv: 13.5% Price: $15 luxurious mouthfeel but it also has a snap of green Lola 2018 The Artisanal Series Riesling (Mon­ apple to back the full pear notes. Editors’ Choice. 91 terey). Orange rind, light melon, slightly trop- Scheid 2019 Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc —J.G. ical tones and a wet gravel minerality show on the 89 (Monterey). For full review see page 22. abv: 13.2% Price: $18 easy and likable nose of this bottling. There’s a tac- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 tile grip and sharp acidity to the sip, which underlies Foundry 2018 Schrader Ranch Pinot Blanc otherwise full flavors of orange and kumquat. —M.K. Scotto Family Cellars 2019 Mohr-Fry Ranch 88 (Mendocino County). This full-bodied wine abv: 14% Price: $32 89 Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). For full review see combines a rich texture with ample fruit flavors page 24. Best Buy. and good underlying acidity that gives a sense of Dashe Cellars 2019 McFadden Farm Dry abv: 13.6% Price: $13 freshness. —J.G. 88 Riesling (Potter Valley). This vibrant wine abv: 13.8% Price: $50 exudes tropical-fruit aromas of banana and mango, Vincent Vineyards 2018 Platinum Blond Sau­ and tangy flavors of green apple and spiced apple. 89 vignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). Quite light It is medium to full bodied and nicely mouthfilling. in the glass, this bottling offers pleasantly delicate PINOT GRIS —J.G. aromas of nectarine and lemon peel on the nose. It’s abv: 13.5% Price: $26 quite mellow in the glass, where apple-flesh, wet FEL 2019 Pinot Gris (Anderson Valley). Bril- stone and brisk citrus flavors arise. —M.K. 92 liant Fuji apple and Anjou pear flavors light abv: 14.1% Price: $25 up this smooth and elegant, medium-bodied wine VERMENTINO that was aged on its lees for five months. A silky Abandon 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake mouthfeel and subtle acidity make it instantly Tablas Creek 2019 Vermentino (Adelaida 88 County). This refreshing, lively wine shows appealing and hard to put down. Editors’ Choice. 94 District). Winemaker Jason Haas continu- crisp lemon and green-apple aromas and zingy fruit —J.G. ally reveals the magic potential of this grape for a flavors. A full body also gives it a rounded texture. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 warmer weather region like Paso Robles. In this vin- —J.G. tage, crisp and light aromas of pear, lemon and lily abv: 13.9% Price: $23 Blair 2017 Pinot Gris (Arroyo Seco). Dried lead into a fascinating palate of nectarine, honey- 89 lemon peels, orange surf wax and a hint of suckle and ripe melon, all wrapped in an immensely SeaGlass 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Bar­ nuts show on the nose of this bottling. It’s a com- chalky structure. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 88 bara County). For full review see page 24. plex wine on the palate, moving from lemon-like abv: 13% Price: $27 Best Buy. wax flavors to blanched almonds, all with a viscous abv: 13.5% Price: $12 length to the finish. —M.K. Joseph Jewell 2019 Raymond Burr Vineyard abv: 14.2% Price: $30 93 Vermentino (Dry Creek Valley). From the Amador Cellars 2019 Estate Sauvignon Blanc vineyard grafted to Vermentino in 2017, this wine 87 (Shenandoah Valley). This medium-bodied Brassfield 2019 High Serenity Ranch Pinot shows how wise it was to try such a variety in this wine tastes fresh and juicy, blending citrus and herb 89 Gris (High Valley). A charming floral aroma hot appellation while being beautifully floral in flavors that are nicely lifted by crisp acidity. —J.G. and abundant honeydew-melon flavors give this lemon peel. Grip and texture present along a steely, abv: 13.2% Price: $22 medium-bodied wine plenty to like. A nicely high-toned palate of green apple. —V.B. ­rounded texture is braced by subtle acidity for a abv: 13.6% Price: $24 Navarro 2019 Cuvée 128 Sauvignon Blanc clean mouthfeel. —J.G. 86 (Anderson Valley). This light-bodied wine abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Peltier 2019 Estate Grown Vermentino serves up simple and refreshing lemon and crisp 86 (Lodi). This lean and tangy wine offers apple flavors on a rather soft texture. —J.G. Eden Rift 2018 Terraces Pinot Gris (Cienega plenty of crisp apple flavors, good acidity and light abv: 12.7% Price: $22 88 Valley). There’s an alkaline streak across body. —J.G. the nose of this bottling, which offers dried honey- abv: 12.4% Price: $18 Peltier 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). Light suckle and lanolin aromas as well. Dried lemon peel 86 bodied and very crisp in texture, this wine and quinine elements show on the palate, which offers simple and refreshing green-apple and herb is likely to blossom into other flavors with time. VIOGNIER flavors. It’s clean and uncomplicated. —J.G. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.1% Price: $32 Babcock 2018 Once in a Lifetime Ultra Late 93 Harvest Viognier (Santa Barbara County). Folie à Deux 2019 Pinot Gris (Sonoma Coast). A golden yellow hue in the glass, this botrytized PINOT BLANC 88 Invitingly crisp and floral, this white wine Viognier is the first instance of that noble rot hap- is tropical with a fleshy opulence and lasting note of pening in Byan Babcock’s long career. Aromas of Dutton-Goldfield 2019 Dutton Ranch Shop sweet vanilla. —V.B. orange blossom extract and oozing honey lead into 94 Block Pinot Blanc (Green Valley). Stainless- abv: 13.9% Price: $18 an extremely viscous palate of more honey drizzled fermented, this perennially beautiful white is burst- on ripe melons and sprinkled with lemon zest, clove ing in fruity, floral aromas and flavors of fresh apri- dust and butterscotch. Its unctuous sweetness cot, peach and fig. Crushed rock, oyster shell and RIESLING a­lmost makes the teeth hurt. —M.K. wet stone contribute a minerality that intrigues and abv: 9.6% Price: $75 Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Chileno Valley Vine­ 93 yard Riesling (Petaluma Gap-Marin County).

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Doffo 2019 Concrete Fermented Viognier mine and more peach ride bright acidity into the tling. There’s a strong lime-peel tension to the sip, 93 (Temecula Valley). This concrete-fermented finish. —M.K. where touches of green pear are wrapped around a Viognier is easily one of the best white wines to abv: 14.9% Price: $25 tightly spun texture. —M.K. emerge from this region in recent years. Clean and abv: 12.3% Price: $24 crisp aromas of Asian pear flesh, lime zest, honey­ Ampelos 2019 Phi Viognier (Santa Barbara suckle and chalk lead into a tight palate of wet 88 County). Made 100% varietal, the grapes La Marea 2019 Kristy Vineyard Albariño (Mon­ gravel, ash, apple blossom and more pear flesh. The stainless-steel fermented and aged, this wine is 91 terey County). Rainy cement, Meyer lemon texture lingers long into the finish.Editors’ Choice. earthy in jasmine and geranium, the texture viscous rind and very tight apple aromas show on the nose —M.K. and thick. Pineapple and pear flavors round out the of this single-vineyard expression. The palate shows abv: 14.8% Price: $38 experience. —V.B. both brisk, sizzling acidity and warmer tones of abv: 13.9% Price: $25 baked pear, with a taut texture holding firm into the Thacher 2018 Hastings Ranch Vineyard bubblegum-kissed finish. —M.K. 93 ­Viognier (Adelaida District). Peach, pear, Cass 2019 Viognier (Paso Robles). Broad abv: 13.2% Price: $24 melon, Meyer lemon peel and wet rock aromas 88 aromas of melon, peach, baked apple and show on the engaging nose of this bottling, which is tropical guava flesh show on the nose of this bot- Niner 2019 Albariño (Edna Valley). Broad expertly restrained for an often overripe grape. The tling. There is a flash of sizzling acidity to the sip, 91 peach, nectarine and melon aromas gain sizzling acidity of the palate leads into stony and before the ripe pear and peach flavors return. —M.K. compelling complexity with brushes of wet slate mineral-driven flavors, with a citrus-slicked melon abv: 14% Price: $28 and wild spearmint on the nose of this bottling. The tone that never loses appeal. —M.K. palate is very zesty and fresh, offering pear flesh, abv: 11.75% Price: $32 Frey 2018 Organic Viognier (California). This struck stone and white-pepper flavors. —M.K. 82 full-bodied wine offers subtle chalk, fig and abv: 13.2% Price: $20 McKahn 2019 Catie’s Corner Viognier (Rus­ peach flavors wrapped in buttery overtones and it 92 sian River Valley). This is a bright and effu- finishes with a chalky bitterness. —J.G. Caliza 2019 End of the Day Albariño (Paso sive white from the great site, steely in texture abv: 14.2% Price: $18 90 Robles). Warm aromas of honey-drizzled, with vibrant characteristics of lychee, peach skin pan-seared apples on brioche make for a very invit- and pineapple. The nose is deeply defined in hon- ing entry to this bottling. The palate leans into the eysuckle, winding its way to a complete, cohesive CHENIN BLANC mineral side of the grape, showing ash and wet con- finish of neutral oak. —V.B. crete flavors as well as lime pith and apple flesh. abv: 14.1% Price: $34 Notary Public 2017 Jurassic Park Vineyard —M.K. 91 Chenin Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). Light and abv: 14% Price: $24 Carol Shelton 2018 Damiano Vineyard ­Viognier crisp, there is a pinpoint florality on the nose of this 91 (Placer County). This medium-bodied wine bottling, which shows lemon blossom, yellow pear Tangent 2018 Paragon Vineyard Albariño blends fig and mineral and apricot flavors on a rich and kumquat on the nose. Loads of tangy and ener- 90 (Edna Valley). For full review see page 21. texture that’s nicely lifted by tangy acidity. It has a getic citrus flavors pop on the palate, where more abv: 14.1% Price: $17 smooth, broad mouthfeel and lingering finish. —J.G. kumquat leads into a broader sense of apple flesh. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 OTHER WHITE WINES Refugio Ranch 2018 Viognier (Santa Ynez 91 Valley).­ There’s a bright sizzle of lime as Dashe Cellars 2019 Les Enfant Terrible Con­ Paix Sur Terre 2019 Maison Mason Vine­ well as creamier tones of pear flesh and honey on 90 crete Cuvée Chenin Blanc (Clarksburg). This 95 yards Ugni Blanc (Paso Robles Willow Creek the nose of this bottling. A hint of toast kicks off attractive, technically light-bodied wine fermented District). Always high in the running for best Paso the sip before brisk lemon and apple-flesh flavors in a concrete egg is rich in ripe fruit flavors and has Robles white wine each vintage, this bottling does arise, with fresh acidity and a tightly wound texture a mouthcoating texture, but stays nicely balanced anything but disappoint. Bright and fresh aromas carry­ing toward the finish. —M.K. thanks to underlying acidity. —J.G. of melon, mango and jasmine are quite floral, while abv: 14.8% Price: $30 abv: 12.4% Price: $24 the palate zips across the tongue with glee, sprin- kling honeysuckle, Key lime pith and even delicate Kendric 2019 Proprietor Grown Viognier T. Berkley Wines 2018 Norgard Farms Chenin bubblegum flavors into the finish.Editors’ Choice. 90 (Petaluma Gap-Marin County). Big flavors 90 Blanc (Mendocino County). Plenty of ripe —M.K. and a full rich texture make this wine very robust, fruits like honeydew melon and yellow peach give abv: 13.5% Price: $32 mouthfilling and delicious. Luckily it has good acid- a generous expression to this full-bodied wine, and ity to nicely balance the ripe apricot and orange- a big smooth texture wraps it all up. Best through Maidenstoen 2019 Grüner Veltliner (San Luis blossom notes. —J.G. 2024. —J.G. 93 Obispo County). For full review see page 9. abv: 13.7% Price: $24 abv: 12.9% Price: $30 Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.21% Price: $20 Materra Cunat Family Vineyards 2019 Viog­ Aperture 2019 Chenin Blanc (Clarksburg). 90 nier (Oak Knoll District). Sizzling acidity lies 89 This exciting wine is crisp and tangy, full of Stolo 2019 Gewürztraminer (San Luis Obispo beneath oily apricot and green apple in this earthy, vivid fruit flavors like kiwi, lime and green apple. 93 County). Crisp and yet floral aromas of viscous and brightly high-toned white wine. —V.B. Good acidity gives it a lively, appetizing mouthfeel. honeysuckle, elderflower and plumeria meet with abv: 14% Price: $36 —J.G. scratched citrus peel on the dynamic nose of this abv: 13.1% Price: $30 bottling. It’s extremely lively on the palate, offering San Simeon 2019 Stefano Vineyard Viognier grapefruit-peel, Asian pear and wet cement flavors, 90 (Paso Robles). Light aromas of ripe peach, staying brisk and mineral-driven deep into the f­inish. orange and honeysuckle kick off this well-honed ALBARIÑO —M.K. Viognier. There is tactile energy and grippy texture abv: 12.9% Price: $25 to the sip, where broad flavors of orange cream, jas- Joyce 2019 Mission Ranch Albariño (Arroyo 91 Seco). Gardenia, pear-flesh and lime-balm Paix Sur Terre 2019 Glenrose Vineyard Picpoul aromas converge of the nose of this refreshing bot- 92 Blanc (Adelaida District). Tightly wound

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BUYINGGUIDE aromas of tangerine pith, talc and struck limestone as the flavors are, the balance is good from a touch Cobden Wini 2018 Dalton Vineyard Marsanne- show on the nose of this bottling. The wine is very of tangy acidity. —J.G. 91 Roussanne (Sierra Foothills). Fat and buttery, stony on the palate, with uplifting flavors of honey- abv: 13.7% Price: $35 this full-bodied wine puts all its cards on the table. suckle, jasmine and brisk lemon. —M.K. Ripe pears and apples, vanilla, fig and toasted oak all abv: 13.2% Price: $32 Bonny Doon 2019 Beeswax Vineyard Picpoul come together on a creamy, viscous texture. —J.G. 88 (Arroyo Seco). Very mellow on the nose, this abv: 14.2% Price: $36 Paix Sur Terre 2019 Paper Street Vineyard bottling offers brisk touches of wet cement, apple 92 Clairette Blanche (Paso Robles Willow Creek flesh, white flower and pomelo rind. Dried apple Thacher 2018 Approximately Perfect (Paso District). Fresh nectarine, frozen pineapple and and lime-peel flavors show on the palate, which is 91 Robles). Tightly wound aromas of lemon and faint coconut aromas are reminiscent of a piña mellow in texture. —M.K. kumquat juice meet with a ripe pear aroma on the colada on the nose of this bottling. Those tropi- abv: 11% Price: $15 nose of this bottling. There is a fun zip to the sip, cal elements carry to the sip, where a fresh acidity where ripe pear, red-apple and melon aromas are washes through the pineapple and ripe apple-flesh Cass 2019 Roussanne (Paso Robles). Ripe wrapped in a chalky, ashy frame. —M.K. flavors. —M.K. 87 aromas of pear, tuberose and lily are very abv: 13.45% Price: $32 abv: 14.4% Price: $32 tropical, yet cut with a twist of lime. The palate is driven by ripe pear and guava flavors, highlighted by Anaba 2018 Turbine (Sonoma Valley). Tablas Creek 2018 Roussanne (Adelaida Dis­ a decent acidity. —M.K. 90 Combining 30% Viognier, 28% Grenache 92 trict). Lemon rind and blossom meet with abv: 14% Price: $26 Blanc, 26% Marsanne and 16% Picpoul Blanc, this lemongrass and lemon verbena on the citrus-driven is an appealing wine, with focused acidity and steely nose of this bottling. The grape’s more familiar vis- Epiphany 2019 Rodney’s Vineyard Grenache texture. Lovely floral flavors of apple, apricot and cosity arises on the sip, where beeswax, lemon-peel, 87 Blanc (Santa Barbara County). Very light pineapple are lifted by a tease of lemon peel. —V.B. orange-rind and cashew flavors align. —M.K. in the glass, this canned wine starts with aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $32 abv: 12.4% Price: $40 of honeysuckle and lime sorbet, with a slight bit of reduction. Bright and fresh flavors of guava and Bonny Doon 2019 Le Cigare Blanc (Central Bevela 2019 White Lotus Camp 4 Vineyard orange flesh show on the sip, yet there remains a 90 Coast). Very light in the glass, this blend of 91 ­Grenache Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). Very lingering funk, likely from the can. —M.K. 46% Grenache Blanc, 34% Vermentino and 20% light in the glass, this bottling begins with crisp aro- abv: 13% Price: $13/375 ml Clairette Blanche offers honeydew, lime pith, wet mas of Alpine water alongside hints of red apple and gravel and a hint of lanolin on the nose. The palate honeysuckle. There’s a compelling almond-cream Fasi Estate 2019 Malvasia Bianca (C­alifornia). is full of flavors, offering sliced pear and lime peel flavor on the palate, where passion fruit and apple- 86 Very dry and tangy, this light-bodied wine set upon a delicate texture. —M.K. blossom elements make for a refreshing sip. —M.K. offers fresh herb aromas and nervy, veggie flavors. It abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 makes a refreshing change from heavy, rich whites. —J.G. Le Casque 2019 Calotte (Sierra Foothills). Villa Creek 2017 Luna Matta Vineyard Fiano abv: 12.3% Price: $22 90 This well-balanced blend combines good 91 (Adelaida District). A slightly dark shade of fruit concentration with a touch of tanginess in the yellow in the glass, this bottling of a grape that’s texture, offering crisp apple and ripe peach notes rare in California shows aromas of lemon peel, bees- WHITE BLENDS that build on the palate. It is superclean and fresh wax and toasted nuts. The texture is rich and waxy to sip. —J.G. on the palate, where orange-peel, yellow-apple and Inglenook 2018 Blancaneaux (Rutherford). abv: 13.1% Price: $24 more toasted nut flavors arise. —M.K. 93 The winery’s signature white blends 38% abv: 13% Price: $50 Viognier, 38% Marsanne and 24% Roussanne into Robert Biale 2019 Clementina (Oak Knoll a cohesive whole, aging the wine in stainless steel as 90 District). The Zinfandel specialist offers Camins 2 Dreams 2019 Spear Vineyards well as French oak. Bright layers of lemon peel and a brilliant white wine from its estate here, 100% 90 Grüner Veltliner (Sta. Rita Hills). Superfresh tangerine meet grippy acidity and length, with an Greco—an Italian grape variety not officially recog- aromas of orange peel, tangerine flesh and a hint of appealing creaminess to the finish. —V.B. nized in the United States, thus not listed on the grapefruit show on the nose of this bottling. There abv: 14% Price: $65 label. A tribute to the matriarch of the Biale family, is a broad sense of nectarine and ripe orange on the it is crisp and sleek in slate, grippy tangerine and palate, but the tension is driven by grapefruit peel Babcock 2018 Galvanized Synergy (Santa pomelo. —V.B. into the finish. —M.K. 92 Barbara County). Bryan Babcock loves abv: 13.8% Price: $42 abv: 13% Price: $30 experimenting with new grapes, and this blend of 56% Clairette Blanche and 44% Grenache Blanc Tooth & Nail 2018 Fragrant Snare (­California). Mauritson 2019 Muscat Blanc (Big Val­ is a great example. Light smoke, dried lemon and 90 Slightly sour lemon-peel aromas play 90 ley District). The first vintage of this wine baked peach aromas lead into a palate that’s warm against the more ripe tone of pear flesh and honey­ for the Sonoma-based producer, it comes from at first with roasted orange flavors before a sizzle dew on the nose of this Chardonnay-led blend. organically grown grapes farmed on an estate site. of acidity and chalky structure complete the sip. There’s a toasty quality to the sip, where clean and Fermented and aged in stainless steel, the clean, —M.K. rich flavors of lemon, baked apple and sea salt carry focused and freshly conceived white is dry, light and abv: 14% Price: $25 long into the finish. —M.K. silky on the palate, bursting in lime, orange peel and abv: 14% Price: $30 a hint of lychee. —V.B. Caliza 2019 Kissin’ Cousins (Paso Robles). abv: 12.57% Price: $27 91 This blend of 48% Viognier, 30% Grenache Peltier 2018 Preeminence (Lodi). This rich, Blanc and 22% Roussanne begins with aromas of 89 almost thick wine exudes strong buttery, Las Positas 2019 Estate Verdelho (Livermore Meyer lemon peel, light brine, white flowers and toasty aromas and flavors and full body. It has a 89 Valley). Honey-like aromas and generous drying honeysuckle. The palate combines lemon- mouthcoating density that nicely wraps up almond, honeydew-melon flavors make this medium-bodied peel, tangerine-rind and yellow-apple flavors, with poached pear and sawn oak nuances. —J.G. wine superfruity and focused. As ripe and bursting a lingering sense of paraffin that stretches into the abv: 13% Price: $28 finish. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $36

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Andis 2019 Painted Fields Cuvée Blanc Goat Bubbles 2016 Sierra Madre Vineyard Joseph Jewell 2019 Slusser Vineyard Rosé 88 (Sierra Foothills). For full review see page 91 (Santa Maria Valley). Sizzling aromas of 92 of Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Light, 22. lemon peel meet with a steely minerality and yeasty bright and fruity in strawberry, tangerine and abv: 13.1% Price: $25 sourdough streak on the nose of this bottling. ­cherry, this well-made, balanced and complex wine ­Yellow-grapefruit-pith flavors engage the palate, offers lasting refreshment and style. —V.B. Cass 2019 Mr. Blanc (Paso Robles Geneseo which is crisp and clean while offering a yeasty tone abv: 13.5% Price: $24 88 District). Hints of honey and blanched as well. —M.K. almonds meet with honeysuckle on the soft and abv: 12.8% Price: $40 Scar of the Sea 2019 Seven Leagues Rosé of smooth nose of this blend of 56% Roussanne, 24% 92 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Wet stone Viognier and 20% Marsanne. Ripe flavors of guava and chiseled granite aromas meet with tangerine and orange blossom show on the palate, with a bit ROSÉ OF PINOT NOIR and melon on the mineral-driven nose of this rosé. more honey. —M.K. There’s a watermelon and lime-pith aspect to the abv: 14% Price: $20 Auteur Wines 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir sip, but the stony qualities dominate there as well. 94 (Sonoma­ Coast). Tangerine, blood orange —M.K. Imagery 2018 White Burgundy (North Coast). and strawberry fruit are met by a meaty center of abv: 13.3% Price: $28 87 This blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and crisp, bursting acidity, the layers of the wine com- Pinot Meunier is very fruity and friendly, offering plex and textured for the long haul. Beyond just Dutton-Goldfield 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir generous peach and pear flavors, a full body and a light and bright, it impresses from color to aroma 91 (Sonoma­ Coast). This is made from a selec- smooth texture. —J.G. to length. —V.B. tion of rock-star sites, including McDougall, Fox abv: 14.1% Price: $32 abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Den and Emerald Ridge. Stainless fermented, it retains undeniable freshness and minerality, offer- Apothic 2018 White (California). This easy- Benovia 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian ing cranberry color and elegant layers of rose petal, 86 going, seemingly sweet wine combines flo- 94 River Valley). Beautifully inviting in candied candied strawberry and watermelon. —V.B. ral and fruity notes on a soft, broad texture. —J.G. cherry and orange, this is a crisp, dry and thirst- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 12% Price: $14 quenching wine, with a lemony texture. Made from grapes grown on the estate’s Martaella Vineyard, it La Crema 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Monterey). Nectar Of The Dogs 2017 3 Dogs White was harvested and pressed for vibrancy and fresh- 91 Crisp and clean aromas of strawberry, water- 86 (Santa Barbara County). There is a pleas- ness, fermenting in older French oak and stainless melon, chalk and citrus pith make for a very com- ant tightness to the nose of this obscure blend of steel. It is refined and delicious. —V.B. pelling nose on this bottling. There’s a great snap Viognier, Gewürztraminer and Muscat Canelli, with abv: 14% Price: $32 to the palate, where pure but delicate strawberry hints of crushed rock as well as lemon-pith aromas.­ flavors leveled by an ashy streak.Editors’ Choice. The palate is quite ripe, with loads of pear and Flowers 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma —M.K. ­apples and a slight smoke tone. —M.K. 93 Coast). Mineral-driven and floral, this wine abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.8% Price: $30 is textured in stone, with elusive layers of Meyer lemon, lemongrass and wild strawberry. Crisp and MacRostie 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian fresh, it offers layers of structure and elegance. 91 River Valley). Rich and viscous, this wine is SPARKLING WINES —V.B. fruity in strawberry and dark cherry, with an herbal abv: 13% Price: $35 underbelly that contrasts well. While lush and opu- Solminer 2019 Poils de Chien Pet-Nat Rosé lent, it finishes crisp and clean. —V.B. 92 (Santa Barbara County). A clean version of Balverne 2019 Forever Wild Estate Grown abv: 13.5% Price: $28 pét-nat, this sparkler begins with aromas of pink 92 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For lemon, apricot blossom and a hint of strawberry on full review see page 11. Stolo 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo the nose. The flavors are crisp and focused, showing abv: 14.1% Price: $24 91 County). A slightly dark shade of pink, this light apricot and red pear, which ride a very generous Pinot Noir-based pink starts with delicious and rich mousse. —M.K. Bruliam 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma aromas of cherry cola. The palate is rounded and abv: 13.3% Price: $38 92 County). Light, crisp and refreshing, this ripe in cherry and strawberry, yet there’s a mineral wine is endearing in layered fruit flavors of tan- streak of chalk and ash that keeps the texture tight. Solminer 2018 Nebullite Sparkling Syrah gerine and Meyer lemon, an accompanying tease of —M.K. 92 (Santa Ynez Valley). Sparkling red wines wild strawberry never far away. Though made in an abv: 12.9% Price: $27 don’t always work, but this herbaceous blend of easily accessible style, it offers graceful structure 72% Syrah, 27% Grenache and 1% Riesling suc- and length. —V.B. V. Sattui 2019 Rosato di Pinot Noir (Anderson ceeds in spicy ways. Aromas of cracked pepper, abv: 13.6% Price: $25 91 Valley). Juicy, fruity flavors are backed by bright black raspberry, thyme and marjoram lead good tangy acidity in this fresh-tasting, raspberry- into a boysenberry, peppercorn and dried herb pal- Clos du Val 2019 Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir tinged wine. It shows great balance and refreshment. ate. There’s tannic tension and a great mousse to 92 (Carneros). Dry, crisp and citrus-driven, —J.G. boot. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. this wine is from estate grapes that are picked early, abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 13.2% Price: $42 fermented and aged in stainless steel and ready to enjoy. Strawberry, tangerine and watermelon Cobden Wini 2019 O’Sullivan Family Vineyard Albatross Ridge 2018 Petillant Naturel Rosé ­accent an enduring structure of fresh acidity that 90 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). 91 Pinot Noir (Monterey). A cloudy pink and finishes smooth and clean. —V.B. Earthy cherry, strawberry and watermelon glide blushed apricot color in the glass, this refreshing abv: 12% Price: $30 across the palate with ease, taking on a candied sparkler shows peach, talc and zesty citrus aromas quality that works against the nuanced neutral oak. on the nose. The palate hits with a lively tang of Davis Bynum 2019 Jane’s Vineyard Rosé of Medium bodied, it presents as unctuous and herbal. lemon and orange peel, then shows warmer melon 92 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full —V.B. tones and funkier pizza-dough flavors—a wild ride. review see page 12. abv: 14.2% Price: $35 —M.K. abv: 12% Price: $25 abv: 12.8% Price: $45

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BUYINGGUIDE

Domaine Carneros 2019 Avant Garde Rosé watermelon, this is an earthy, light and crisply floral Wood Family Vineyards 2019 Pink Pearl 90 of Pinot Noir (Carneros). This vegan wine is wine, with lasting highlights of saline and dried herb. 90 Rose of Grenache (Livermore Valley). This 100% varietal and light in style. Golden-pink and —V.B. charming wine made from Grenache grapes has orange in color, it is crisp and refreshing: a invita- abv: 13.8% Price: $22 more depth and flavor than the pale-pink color tion to layers of strawberry, peach and tangerine, would suggest. It shows pleasant, generous fruit fla- with a steely texture and lasting acidity. —V.B. Kendric 2019 Proprietor Grown Rosé of ­Pinot vors on a medium to full body and the rounded tex- abv: 13% Price: $30 87 Noir (Petaluma Gap-Marin County). This ture that this grape variety tends to produce. —J.G. light-bodied wine tastes lively, flinty and notovertly ­ abv: 13.6% Price: $30 Etude 2019 Grace Benoist Ranch Estate fruity. An earthy, saltwater aroma is followed by 90 Grown Rosé of Pinot Noir (Carneros). Sweet, melon and prosciutto flavors and hints of smoke and Gallegos 2019 Boekenoogen Vineyard Rosé succulent strawberry opens the gate to a viscous, mineral. —J.G. 89 of Grenache (Monterey County). A yellow- textured midpalate of juicy acidity and lasting abv: 13.2% Price: $15 ish shade of pink in the glass, this bottling offers freshness in this wine which has plenty of meat on clean lines of raspberry and tart red-plum peels its bones. —V.B. Lola 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (California). on the nose. There’s a chalky grip to the sip before abv: 13.4% Price: $34 87 This light-bodied, tangy wine offers mild riper cherry and strawberry flavors meet with dried watermelon and raspberry flavors and a refreshing earth. —M.K. Sangiacomo 2019 Roberts Road Vineyard texture that has a good nip of acidity. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $24 90 Vin Gris of Pinot Noir (Petaluma Gap). From abv: 12.8% Price: $20 the family’s cool-climate estate, winemaker James Epiphany 2019 Rodney’s Vineyard Rosé of MacPhail whole-cluster pressed the grapes, with Nectar Of The Dogs 2018 Princess Edition 88 Grenache (Santa Barbara County). A beauti- much of the juice going into stainless steel for fer- 87 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). ful shade of fuschia in the glass, this canned wine mentation, the rest in neutral oak. With minimal Aromas of bruised watermelon, a hint of kirsch and offers aromas of raspberry, watermelon and rust on barrel aging, it retains fresh, fruity flavors of straw- a touch of muddy earth show on the nose of this the nose. There’s a slight funk to the palate, but ripe berry, tangerine and lime within a crisp framework. bottling. The palate combines tea, dried cherry and flavors of cherry and strawberry dominate. —M.K. —V.B. clay, with lots of acidity and a firm texture. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $13/375 ml abv: 12.5% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $26 Lorenzi Estate 2019 M Rosé of Grenache Niner 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Long Meadow Ranch 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir 87 (Temecula­ Valley). Wet earth, light ­cranberry 89 This bottling, which is treated to 2% Alba- 85 (Anderson Valley). This extremely pale-col- and shy orange peel make for a very mellow nose rino, begins with aromas of lime, lemon, light berry ored wine is light bodied, lean and subtly fruity in on this bottling. The palate is a bit soft in texture, and earth on the nose. There’s a chalky grip framing flavor. —J.G. offering baked cherry and mint flavors. —M.K. the sip, where muddled strawberry and light mint abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 14.4% Price: $35 flavors align. —M.K. abv: 12% Price: $25 ROSÉ OF GRENACHE ROSÉ OF SYRAH Au Contraire 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian­ 88 River Valley). Candied strawberry and vanilla­ Buttonwood Farm 2019 Rosé of Grenache Buttonwood Farm 2019 Rosé of Syrah (­Santa flavors highlight a viscous, lush and ripely rich expe- 93 (Los Olivos District). One of the most com- 90 Ynez Valley). Strong aromas of red plum, rience of varietal abundance in this medium-bodied, pelling rosés of the year, this bottling shows aromas cherry, raspberry and shiso leaf show on the nose of hearty wine. —V.B. of singed chalk, crushed rocks and a lingering straw- this Syrah-based rosé. Rich cherry and strawberry abv: 14.2% Price: $28 berry streak that floats behind the pinpoint miner- flavors arise on the palate, where there’s just enough ality. The palate sizzles with acidity as flavors of red texture to keep the riper tones in check. —M.K. Blair 2018 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco). apple, raspberry and rose water bounce against the abv: 11% Price: $24 88 Dried herbs, baked earth and a light cran- chalky and rocky backbone. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. berry backdrop show on the slightly vinous nose of abv: 13.8% Price: $24 Lawer 2019 Rosé of Syrah (Knights Valley). this bottling. Similar flavors arise on the sip, which 90 For full review see page 20. also offers dried strawberry, oregano and a rusty Notary Public 2019 Rosé of Grenache (Santa abv: 13.8% Price: $25 minerality. —M.K. 91 Barbara County). A chalky tone surrounds abv: 13.8% Price: $25 the strawberry, watermelon and lemongrass aro- Camins 2 Dreams 2019 Rosé of Syrah (Sta. mas on the nose of this Grenache-based rosé. The 88 Rita Hills). Light cherry-candy aromas and Cuvaison 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Los texture is tense, with zesty flavors of ash, lime and tangy lemon and orange-rind elements are wrapped 88 Carneros).­ From a single block of the pro- pluot flesh that rush into the midpalate. —M.K. in a beautiful color on this rosé. The palate offers ducer’s estate, this wine offers the texture of grape- abv: 13% Price: $24 tart red-plum skins, with lemon rind and brisk fruit pith and has a meaty weight, balanced by deft grapefruit juice flavors. —M.K. acidity. Orange and peach flavors persist and shine Sevtap 2019 Rosé of Grenache (Santa Ynez abv: 14% Price: $24 in freshness. —V.B. 91 Valley). For full review see page 17. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.3% Price: $35 Riley’s Rows 2019 Rosé of Syrah (North 88 Coast). This attractive wine is a very pale Hahn 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Monterey). Stringer 2019 Babbling Brook Rosé of pink color, and offers fresh, lively raspberry and 88 Rusty aromas of muddled red plums and 90 G­renache (Sonoma Valley). This is 100% red-cherry flavors on a light body. —J.G. damp soil show on the nose of this rosé. Wild, varietal. The grapes are from the Dry Stack Vine- abv: 12.8% Price: $27 earthy flavors appear on the sip, from cherry and yard—a cool site that lends itself to the retention of ripe orange to wet rocks. —M.K. bright acidity. Strawberry, tangerine, lime and earth Fasi Estate 2019 Estate Syrah Rosé (Madera). abv: 14.2% Price: $15 form a lengthy, quenching palate of finesse and bal- 87 This medium-bodied wine is quite dry, ance that form atop a stony texture. —V.B. offering a prosciutto aroma and white-pepper fla- Lawer 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Knights abv: 13.4% Price: $19 88 Valley).­ Candied in cherry, strawberry and

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 vors. It’s an unusual style of rosé that has a serious, stone. A tightly wound texture delivers brisk flavors Thacher 2019 Rosé (Paso Robles). Subtle on savory ­appeal. —J.G. of light strawberry, Rainier cherry and a touch of 91 the nose at first, this delicate rosé shows aro- abv: 13.1% Price: $22 lanolin-like earthiness. —M.K. mas of chilly Alpine water, light cherry, brisk straw- abv: 14.7% Price: $30 berry and a unique hint of papaya. It’s very crisp and alkaline on the palate, where ashy flavors meet OTHER ROSÉS Mauritson 2019 Rosé (Rockpile). Made with very light red fruits and texturally engaging 92 ­entirely from Zinfandel, this is a ­refreshingly citrus pith. —M.K. Halter Ranch 2019 Rosé (Adelaida ­District). light, bright and intentional wine, zippy, herbal and abv: 12.8% Price: $28 93 The nose on this rosé blend of 65% citrus-driven, with a fruity undercurrent of wild ­Grenache, 19% Mourvèdre and 16% Picpoul Blanc strawberry. Dry and pretty in pink color, it offers Chloe 2019 Rosé (Central Coast). For full is extremely inviting, offering cherry and ­trawberrys complexity within its undeniable appeal. —V.B. 90 review see page 23. Best Buy. as well as chalky aromas. That talc-like crushed abv: 13.9% Price: $28 abv: 13% Price: $15 white-rock minerality is firm on the palate, framing the strawberry-flesh and rosewater flavors. —M.K. Stewart 2019 Rosé (Sonoma Mountain). Joyce 2019 Turbidity Current Rosé (Mon­ abv: 13.3% Price: $30 92 U­sing both Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, 90 terey). Wet stone, light lemon peel and whole-cluster pressing the grapes after time on the brisk aromas of underrripe strawberry show on Samsara 2019 Rosé (Santa Barbara County). skins, this is a crisp, refreshingly complex wine, the nose of this pink blend of 50% Mourvèdre and 93 Pale-pink in color, this pink blend of 50% bright and lengthy on the palate in sophisticated 50% Grenache. The palate zings with lemon-peel Mourvèdre and 50% Grenache shows rose petals, flavors of strawberry and white peach. —V.B. acidity at first and then leads into warmer hints of light berry and sliced pluot on the sharp and pin- abv: 13% Price: $28 nectarine in the midpalate. —M.K. point nose. The palate is framed by a stony grip, abv: 12.5% Price: $24 delivering flavors of Rainier cherry, light strawberry Banshee 2019 Rosé (Mendocino County). For and crisp nectarine, with searing acidity into the 91 full review see page 15. Kanpai 2019 Hi No Tori Rosé of Cabernet f­inish. —M.K. abv: 13.2% Price: $22 90 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Copper-pink in abv: 13.9% Price: $28 color, this bold, dry and elegant wine reflects the Belden Barns 2019 Estate Grown Rosé of ­Pinot variety in its grasp of cranberry, currant and clove. Tablas Creek 2019 Patelin de Tablas Rosé 91 Noir-Syrah (Sonoma Mountain). Blending It also retains plenty of its signature tannin, giving 93 (Paso Robles). Very light and tight aromas both Pinot Noir and Syrah from the property into a the wine a heft and breadth despite its underlying of lime, strawberry and crushed stone show on the cohesive whole, this wine tastes of candied water- acidity. —V.B. nose of this blend of 76% Grenache, 19% ­Mourvèdre melon and cherry. Ebullient in style and approach, abv: 12.5% Price: $25 and 5% Counoise. There is a strong stony streak on it has texture and a lasting sense of opulence that is the palate, where a brisk acidity delivers flavors of fully in balance. —V.B. Paraduxx 2019 Rosé (Napa Valley). This melon, nectarine and light berry. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $24 90 ­relies on 94% Syrah to do the heavy lift- abv: 13% Price: $23 ing, complemented by 6% Grenache. Cherry, rasp- Cass 2019 Oasis Rosé (Paso Robles). Clean berry and vanilla flavors sizzle in crisp companions Tres Sabores 2019 Ingrid and Julia Rosé 91 and pure aromas of watermelon and straw- of tangerine and grapefruit, with a meaty backdrop 93 (Napa Valley). Inspired by two beloved berry are joyous but properly reserved on the nose contributing varietal complexity and texture. —V.B. types of roses named for Ingrid Bergman and Julia of this pink blend of 63% Mourvèdre and 37% abv: 13.5% Price:­ $34 Child, also grown on winemaker Julie Johnson’s ­Grenache. The palate is crisp and chalky in texture, ­estate, this is an ideal garden quaffer. High in acid- delivering strawberry cream, watermelon juice and Picayune 2019 Hay Penny Rosé (­Mendocino ity, it sings in grapefruit and tangerine, remaining tangy lime flavors. —M.K. 90 County). With 75% Syrah and 25% gracefully refreshing and structured. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $24 ­Grenache in the mix, this wine is copper-colored abv: 12.1% Price: $30 and metallic on the tongue—a textured element of Cavaletti 2019 The 109 Mile Rosé (Los Angeles stainless-steel influence—with a crisp, underlying Bonny Doon 2019 Vin Gris de Cigare Rosé 91 County). This pink blend of 52% Tempranillo, acidity that supports earthy lemon peel and grape- 92 (Central Coast). Light raspberry, delicate 46% Grenache, 1% Mourvèdre and 1% Roussanne fruit. —V.B. cotton candy, brisk melon and a hint of citrus show is in the running for L.A.’s best rosé ever, admittedly abv: 12.8% Price: $19 on the nose of this pale rosé. There’s a great zip and not a huge category. Clean aromas of blood orange, tense texture to the sip, where ash and talc flavors rose, red apple, orange sherbet and strawberry lead Tablas Creek 2019 Dianthus Rosé (Adelaida meet with rounded red plum, strawberry and water­ into a palate with candied melon and ripe peach. A 90 District). This pink blend of 52% Mour­ melon, all sliced by strong acidity. —M.K. cement-like texture drives it home. ­Editors’ Choice. vèdre, 33% Grenache and 15% Counoise is mellow abv: 13.5% Price: $15 —M.K. on the nose at first, with strawberry, cherry and cola abv: 14% Price: $25 aromas slowly rising. It’s crisp on the palate, with Lady of the Sunshine 2019 Rosé (Edna V­alley). bright cherry flavors that are framed by a chalky 92 This intriguing blend of 70% Pinot Noir and Clos Solène 2019 La Rose Rosé (Paso Robles). texture. —M.K. 30% Sauvignon Blanc delivers a reminder that rosé 91 Quite light in color, this pink blend of 46% abv: 14.1% Price: $30 can be made in many ways. A beautiful shade of Grenache, 28% Mourvèdre, 24% Cinsault and 2% pink, the wine begins with aromas of red plum, lan- Syrah offers delicate aromas of watermelon and a Anarchist Wine Co. 2019 Rosé Against olin and wet gravel on the nose. The palate is very brisk hit of citrus on the nose. It’s tight and bright 89 The Machine (Clarksburg). This light- to textural, mixing up plump pluot flavors with grassy, on the sip, where apple-flesh and nectarine flavors medium-bodied wine, made from mostly Tempra- dried pasilla elements. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. cling to a tense texture and flashy acidity. —M.K. nillo grapes, shows appetizing acidity, light water- abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 13.7% Price: $42 melon and raspberry flavors and a good, crisp tex- ture. —J.G. Martin Ranch 2019 Therese Vineyards Victoria Flat Top Hills 2019 Rosé (California). For full abv: 13.5% Price: $28 92 Denice Vineyard Rosé (Santa Clara Valley). 91 review see page 22. Best Buy. The very delicate and pleasant nose of this rosé abv: 13% Price: $14 Berrycream 2019 Rosé (California). Very begins with rose petals and lots of crushed wet 89 fresh and flavorful, this medium-bodied,

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BUYINGGUIDE dry wine offers dazzling raspberry aromas and fla- Vincent Vineyards 2019 La Chaine Rosé Nola Grace 2019 Dry Rosé (California). Light vors, good balance and a soothingly smooth texture. 88 (Santa Ynez Valley). Tart and tangy aromas 85 in body and lean in flavor, this nervy, tangy Best Buy. —J.G. of citrus-sprayed strawberries show on the nose of wine is refreshing and simple. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 rosé, which is beautiful in color. The red-fruit fla- abv: 12% Price: $12 vors pop on the sip and then are consumed by the Lava Cap 2019 Estate Bottled Rosé (El tangy tangerine and mandarin flavors. —M.K. Scotto Family Cellars 2019 Mohr-Fry Ranch 89 Dorado).­ A deep-pink color and substantial abv: 14.1% Price: $25 85 Dry Rosé Sangiovese (Lodi). This buoyant berry flavors make this wine more than an apéritif. wine offers heady, candied fruit aromas, lots of Good acidity lifts raspberry and cranberry flavors Beach Juice 2019 Rosé (California). The fun almost-sweet berry and cherry flavors and a candy- for an appetizing palate-cleansing effect. —J.G. 87 and playful packaging on this canned rosé like finish. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $20 should win awards. The wine itself is just fine, offer- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 ing aromas of light nectarine and red pear. There is Minus Tide 2019 Feliz Creek Vineyard Carignan a decent sizzle of acidity on the sip, though it fades Sol Rouge 2019 Rosé (Lake County). A 89 Rosé (Mendocino). This tangy, light-bodied quickly, leading through light peach and more red- 83 r­educed, earthy aroma is followed by rather wine delivers good refreshment and enjoyable light apple flavors. —M.K. thin fruit and nut flavors in this light-bodied wine. berry flavors on a crisp and appetizing texture. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $6/375 ml —J.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $24 abv: 12.5% Price: $24 Chronic Cellars 2019 Pink Pedals Rosé (Paso Vincent Vineyards 2019 Cabriole Rosé (­Santa 87 Robles). A salmon-color in the glass, this 89 Ynez Valley). Very light and delicate on the rosé is quite light on the nose, offering cherry and SWEET WINES nose, this rosé starts with aromas of red plum and wet clay aromas. There’s a touch of cherry sweet- lime. The palate is singed with acidity, offering fla- ness to the palate, yet with enough stony minerality Navarro 2019 Cluster Select Late Harvest vors of orange rind and strawberry. —M.K. to keep it refreshing. —M.K. 96 Riesling (Anderson Valley). This intense, abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 deep and wonderfully complex wine offers deli- cious layers of apricot, honey and toasted almond Caliza 2019 Pink Rosé (Paso Robles). Red- Electra 2019 Moscato Rosé (California). This that waft up from the glass, coat the mouth and 88 plum skin, underripe orange flesh and a 87 light-bodied and overtly sweet wine smells linger long on the finish. It’s a rare treat for special earthy kick of lanolin show on the nose of this bot- just as ripe and honeyed as it tastes, exuding potent ­occasions, and will age nicely through at least 2030. tling. The palate combines a taut texture and splash floral plummy candied notes from the first whiff Cellar Selection. —J.G. of acidity with orange flesh, lime peel and more through the lingering finish. —J.G. abv: 10% Price: $39 earth tones. —M.K. abv: 5.5% Price: $16 abv: 14% Price: $26 Navarro 2019 Cluster Select Late Harvest Le Casque 2019 Vin Gris Rosé (Sierra Foot­ 94 Gewürztraminer (Anderson Valley). Super- Dark Horse 2019 Rosé (California). For full 87 hills). Lots of fruit flavors and a broad, concentrated and indulgent, this late-harvest 88 review see page 24. Best Buy. almost sweet mouthfeel make this full-bodied wine dessert wine was made from grapes shriveled abv: 13% Price: $8 unusually soft for a rosé, but flavorful and enjoyable. by Botrytis. It is saturated with delicious honey, —J.G. orange-blossom and peach flavors and has a sur- Gehricke 2019 Rosé (Los Carneros). Whole- abv: 14.1% Price: $25 prisingly light and graceful texture. Best through 88 cluster pressed Pinot Noir grapes were fer- 2028. Cellar Selection. —J.G. mented in stainless-steel for this crisp, fleshy wine. Matchbook 2019 Tinto Rey Estate Bottled abv: 10% Price: $39/375 ml Grapefruit, tangerine and strawberry accent an 87 Rosé (Dunnigan Hills). Ripe peach and plum earthy foundation of thick tannin and grippy texture. flavors in this medium- to full-bodied wine are quite Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2014 Latigo —V.B. rich and the texture is rather soft and mouthfilling. 93 ­Cabernet Franc (Red Hills). For full review abv: 12.5% Price: $29 —J.G. see page 9. abv: 12.8% Price: $17 abv: 19% Price: $50/375 ml Spicy Vines 2018 Violet Rosé (Dry Creek 88 Valley).­ This is made from a field blend of Okapi 2019 Jungle Love Estate Rosé of Caber­ Navarro 2019 Late Harvest Gewürztraminer Cinsault, Carignan, Grenache and Zinfandel—the 87 net Sauvignon (Oak Knoll District). This is a 92 (Anderson Valley). This gorgeously sweet result aged a year in neutral French oak. Thick in meaty, thickly viscous and robust blush wine made wine is well balanced enough to serve before or dur- tannin and a whiff of earth, it wraps itself around from the substantial variety, known for its tannin ing a meal as well as with dessert. It offers wonderful layers of watermelon, grapefruit and lime. —V.B. and structure. Sweet vanilla and cherry round out rose-petal and grapefruit flavors, a rich texture and abv: 13% Price: $28 the opulent style. —V.B. a touch of brisk acidity to counter the sweetness. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 —J.G. St. Eva Hill 2019 Rosé (Paso Robles). A abv: 11% Price: $25/375 ml 88 slightly brown shade of pink in the glass, CK Mondavi and Family NV Spritzed Rosé this bottling begins with earthy aromas of cola, 86 Moscato (California). This sweet wine is vanilla and light cherry. There is a zip to the sip, packed with cherry, pistachio and peach nectar fla- OREGON where dried cherry, orange rind and more cola fla- vors that are rich and satisfying. Pair it with cheese vors prove pleasantly refreshing. —M.K. for your sweet-toothed friends. Best Buy. —J.G. CHARDONNAY abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 11% Price: $7 Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2018 Édition Vie Winery 2019 Belle-Amie Rosé (North Matchbook 2019 Estate Bottled Rosé of 96 ­Limitée Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). As 88 Coast). This generous and fruity wine made 86 Tempranillo (Dunnigan Hills). Generous and prices for top-tier Oregon Chardonnay continue to from Rhône grape varieties leads with ripe honeydew fruity, this medium-bodied wine sports a bowl full climb well into the triple digits, this is becoming melon aromas and adds peach and cantaloupe flavors of fresh peach and raspberry flavors on a smooth a real bargain given the quality. Complex and aro- on a medium body and nicely rounded texture. —J.G. soft texture. —J.G. matic with a generous burst of lemon, apple, peach abv: 12.5% Price: $24 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 and papaya fruits, the juicy acids keep the flavors on

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 point through a long, lingering finish. Highlights of bomb of a wine. In baseball terms it’s a five-tool Big Table Farm 2018 The Wild Bee Chardonnay­ warm spices and barrel toast keep the wine evolving player, with a fruit mix of pear, peach, melon and 92 (Willamette Valley). This boasts lemons and and impressing. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. guava leading off. Acids are perfectly poised, the apples galore, with a hint of toasted walnuts. In the abv: 14.1% Price: $75 mouthfeel is smooth and supple, the barrel manage- mix are fresh green herbs, lightly grassy and tart ment spot on and the finish long and lush.Editors’ acids. This barrel-fermented wine was made, notes Drouhin Oregon Roserock 2016 Maigold Choice. —P.G. winemaker Brian Marcy, “with whatever yeast blows 96 Chardonnay (Eola-Amity Hills). This unique, abv: 13.3% Price: $50 in the door.” There’s a lightly tannic frame that firms reserve-level wine is named for a particular variety up the finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. of rose. It has been given extra barrel and bottle age, Walter Scott 2018 Seven Springs Vineyard abv: 13.5% Price: $28 showing in its lush aromas and deep yellow-gold 94 Chardonnay (Eola-Amity Hills). This full- hue. Along with floral accents come full-throttle fla- bodied, sappy wine has the sort of sweet-tart appeal Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2018 Arthur Char­ vors of stone fruits, buttered hazelnuts, café crème of a very fine Vouvray. Ripe lemon and grapefruit 92 donnay (Dundee Hills). Hewing to a well- and coconut butter. It’s decadently rich yet beau- carry the citrus fruit, with nectarine filling out the established style of Burgundian elegance, the lat- tifully framed with acids through an impressively palate. There’s a delicate saltiness coming up in the est Arthur shows pinpoint fruit-acid balance. The long finish. —P.G. lingering finish. As it breathes it opens nicely into fruits are a lovely blend of apples, lemons and sat- abv: 14.1% Price: $75 a well-rounded wine with palate-coating richness. suma oranges, with good energy resonating around Editors’ Choice. —P.G. a firm core. Delicious now, this should age well over Dusky Goose 2016 Chardonnay (Willamette abv: 13% Price: $65 the next half decade. —P.G. 96 Valley). Rarely does a release from a new abv: 14.1% Price: $35 winery impress as does this sensational Chardonnay. Drouhin Oregon Roserock 2018 Chardonnay Luscious flavors of apple, pear, peach and papaya 93 (Eola-Amity Hills). Drouhin Oregon’s Eola- Lange 2018 Estate Chardonnay (Dundee fruit are wrapped in a burst of caramel. The wine Amity Hills Roserock vineyard is maturing nicely, as 92 Hills). Dijon clones anchor this young and spent 18 months in 30% new French oak (the rest this rich, almost unctuous new Chardonnay dem- refreshing wine. Flavors of lemon flesh and rind are neutral) which has opened up the flavors of what onstrates. Rippled with butterscotch around fruit matched to immaculate acids, and penetrate deeply is often a rather tight vintage. The flavors not only flavors of apples and nectarines, this tasty bottle into the finish. Fermented in three-year-old French extend through a long finish, they continue to expand is buoyed with Meyer lemon acidity, and accented oak puncheons, this is for acid-lovers and would be and add further details. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. with whiffs of toasted hazelnuts.Editors’ Choice. best over the next three or four years. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $60 —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $65 abv: 14.1% Price: $35 Walter Scott 2018 X-Novo Vineyard Chardon­ Martin Woods 2018 Chardonnay (Willamette 95 nay (Eola-Amity Hills). This superb effort, Lange 2018 Freedom Hill Vineyard Chardon­ 92 Valley). This lively wine has an electricity though still quite young, springs to life with flavors 93 nay (Willamette Valley). The fruit from this about it, with lip-smackingly delicious and crisp of pink grapefruit, lemon drops, tangerines and outstanding vineyard really shines brightly here, green apples. It’s blended from McMinnville and nectarines. Floral and mineral highlights adorn the with yummy lemon, grapefruit and apple flavors. Van Duzer Corridor grapes, with highlights of fresh aromatics and the finish, and to say it’s a complete Some skin flavors put a frame around the fruit, add- green herbs and a finishing lick of buttery caramel. wine doesn’t sufficiently do it justice. It’s the sort ing texture and length. These Dijon 76 vines were —P.G. of immediately appealing yet entirely age-worthy planted 20 years ago and are entering peak maturity. abv: 13.3% Price: $32 Chardonnay that is making this AVA the epicenter —P.G. for many of the most exciting third-wave producers. abv: 13.5% Price: $65 Walter Scott 2018 Cuvée Anne Chardonnay Drink through 2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 92 (Eola-Amity Hills). Five vineyards contrib- abv: 13% Price: $65 Shea 2017 Shea Vineyard Chardonnay (Wil­ ute to this cuvée, which offers a clear, focused look 93 lamette Valley). For full review see page 10. at this winery’s style across all its Chardonnays. Bethel Heights 2017 Casteel Chardonnay Editors’ Choice. Razor sharp acidity, zippy and zesty Meyer lemon, 94 (Eola-Amity Hills). This barrel-fermented abv: 13.3% Price: $40 grapefruit and green-apple flavors that cut across reserve has a spicy mix of aromas, with hints of and through the palate, and a finishing hint of sea- mint and menthol, along with cedar plank notes Walter Scott 2018 Freedom Hill Vineyard shell all contribute to a wine that shines well above from the barrels. It needs aggressive decanting if 93 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). The aro- its price point. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. you plan to drink it soon, so that those barrel flavors matics are exceptional across the entire Walter abv: 13% Price: $40 are fully integrated. But when put all together with Scott portfolio: here sending up citrus highlights the lush mix of stone fruits and balancing acids, leading to a luscious core of apple and peach, buoyed Cooper Mountain 2018 Chardonnay (Wil­ this is a deep, dense, splendid example of top-tier by juicy acidity. Some 40% of the oak was new, in 91 lamette Valley). Part of the winery’s 5 Ele- O­regon Chardonnay. —P.G. 350 and 500 liter casks. There is little or no barrel ment Series, this old-vine Chardonnay is intensely abv: 13.3% Price: $75 toast, but an overall melding and strengthening of focused, with tart, rich apple fruit and lush accents flavors, highlighted with elegant phenolics. —P.G. of Meyer lemon, lime and pineapple. Flavors take a Big Table Farm 2018 The Elusive Queen Char­ abv: 13% Price: $55 deep dive down through the palate, finishing with a 94 donnay (Willamette Valley). This reserve- light caramel kick. —P.G. level barrel selection bursts open with a lovely mix Bethel Heights 2017 Estate Chardonnay abv: 13.5% Price: $35 of Meyer lemon, pear tart and baked apple. Far from 92 (Eola­ -Amity Hills). Crisp apple fruit is a simple wine, its complexity sneaks up on your threaded with light suggestions of vanilla and but- Fullerton 2018 Lux Chardonnay (Willamette taste buds as the wine breathes open. The juicy terscotch. The relatively low alcohol brings white- 91 Valley).­ This is a barrel-fermented, reserve- acids keep the flavors lively through a long, vibrant radish highlights into play, along with some citrusy level selection. The fruit is ripe and tangy, with finish, with a lovely streak of caramel. —P.G. herbs such as pineapple sage. It’s definitely on the flavors that run through the spectrum from Meyer abv: 13.5% Price: $85 light side, but with the acids and structure to nicely lemon to white peach to green pineapple. It glides match white fish or simple poultry.Editors’ Choice. into a smooth, palate-coating finish with a pleasing Soléna 2018 Domaine Danielle Laurent Char­ —P.G. touch of toast. —P.G. 94 donnay (Yamhill-Carlton). Back in its accus- abv: 13.1% Price: $32 abv: 12.7% Price: $55 tomed style, this is a rich, palate-coating pleasure

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BUYINGGUIDE

Lange 2019 Classiqué Chardonnay (Willa­ keep the fruit flavors down low. There is a mix of La Randonnée 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Yam­ 91 mette Valley). A fine value, this is loaded the standard apple and tree fruits, and the overall 88 hill-Carlton). A severe style with the empha- with vivid flavors of grapefruit, apple flesh, apple mouthfeel is big and chunky. But that blocky, asser- sis on searingly tart, grassy gooseberry flavors. The skin and mixed citrus. It’s tart but not sour, with tive oak, though it may please some palates, takes high acids bring grapefruit and lemon flavors front the sort of steely acidity that makes a great match away any nuances. —P.G. and center. Despite the acids, there’s just enough with shellfish.E ditors’­ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $20 remaining grape sugar to soften it up a touch. Try abv: 13.2% Price: $19 this with shellfish, especially raw oysters. —P.G. Wy’East Vineyards 2018 Chardonnay abv: 12.9% Price: $23 Suzor 2017 The Sunflower Chardonnay (Wil­ 88 (­Columbia Gorge). As the AVA and low alco- 91 lamette Valley). This lovely follow-up to hol indicate, this is a lightly ripened wine, but one the 2016 debut brings the same complex aromas that reflects the northern location of the vineyard. PINOT GRIS of flower pollens, leading into a detailed fruit mix Fresh scents of just-picked salad greens, citrus and of crisp apple, ripe banana and cantaloupe melon. apples lead into that blend of flavors, with a hint King Estate 2018 Steiner Block Estate Grown Barrel fermented with native yeast in one-quarter of oranges also. Barrel fermented in what appears 93 Certified Biodynamic Pinot Gris (Willamette new French oak, it’s got excellent length and subtle to be mostly neutral wood, this is an elegant, easy- Valley). For full review see page 9. details that reward your patience and attention. drinking wine that should be enjoyed over the next abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Editors’ Choice. —P.G. two or three years. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $28 abv: 12.6% Price: $24 Croft Vineyards 2019 Pinot Gris (Willamette 92 Valley). This top-tier vineyard does excep- Willamette Valley Vineyards 2017 Dijon Clone Elouan 2018 Chardonnay (Oregon). This tionally well with its Sauvignon Blancs, and applies 91 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). For full 85 ­generic white wine bears no resemblance to similar practices to this Pinot Gris. Spicy, leesy review see page 18. Editors’ Choice. the precise, detailed, acid-driven Chardonnays found and loaded with citrus, apple and pear, it’s a crisp, abv: 13% Price: $25 throughout the Willamette Valley. The dominant fla- ­refreshing wine with a foundation of wet stones. vor here is vanilla and little else. —P.G. Just a hint of residual sugar helps to round off the Cória 2018 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). abv: 13.8% Price: $22 acids, but it’s quite dry. —P.G. 90 Still pulling itself together, this has an abv: 13.3% Price: $18 aggressively toasty nose, and firm flavors of baked apples, backed with tart lemon-juice flavors. The SAUVIGNON BLANC King Estate 2018 Backbone Pinot Gris (Wil­ fruit, barrel influences and acids are still compart- 92 lamette Valley). For full review see page 13. mentalized, and an additional year in bottle prior Croft Vineyards 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (Willa­ abv: 13.7% Price: $28 to drinking is recommended. —P.G. 93 mette Valley). Though not the most recent abv: 13.3% Price: $45 vintage it’s still available and well worth searching King Estate 2018 Johnson School Vineyard out. With 7% Sémillon in the blend, it has excep- 92 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). For full Lük 2018 West Block Havlin Vineyard Char­ tional richness across a palate of mixed stone fruits. review see page 13. ­Editors’ Choice. 90 donnay (Van Duzer Corridor). For full review There may be a touch of residual sugar, rounding off abv: 14% Price: $26 see page 20. the finish, which lingers gracefully with a refreshing abv: 13.2% Price: $34 minerality. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Soléna 2019 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). abv: 13.4% Price: $26 92 Soléna kills it with this grape, and this is the Willamette Valley Vineyards 2018 Estate best vintage yet. Classy wine styling is here on full 90 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). This is a Division 2019 La Frontière Sauvignon Blanc display, with ripe and fleshy fruit flavors of pear and tasty ­effort, with chunky fruit flavors of ripe lemon 92 (Oregon). This is part of the Division-­ melon, alongside splendid details of cinnamon and and tart apple. Aged 10 months in 27% new French Villages portfolio. It was sourced from two toast. It’s taken decades, but Oregon’s best exam- oak barrels, it sports pretty toasty scents and flavors vineyards—Redford-Wetle­ in the Eola-Amity Hills, ples of Pinot Gris belong with the nation’s top-tier of toasted­ hazelnuts,­ along with a lick of peanut but- and Allegre in the Columbia Gorge—and fermented white wines from any grape. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ter. —P.G. sur lie in a mix of puncheons, barrels and stainless. abv: 13.3% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Lovely scents of clover and honeysuckle lead into a lively wine with a lush mix of apple, pear and melon Domaine Divio 2019 Pinot Beurot (Willamette Division 2018 Johan Vineyard Trois fruits. There’s a dash of barrel toast and just enough 91 Valley). For full review see page 16. 89 ­Chardonnay (Van Duzer Corridor). This sin- residual sugar-acid­ tension to elevate and lengthen abv: 12.8% Price: $28 gle-vineyard ­offering wraps crunchy, chunky, spicy the finish.E ditors’­ Choice. —P.G. jicama and green-apple flavors in an herbal frame. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Fullerton 2019 Three Otters Pinot Gris (Willa­ Lemongrass and pea-vine highlights, along with 91 mette Valley). This sensational wine was plenty of supporting acidity, make this a good every- Croft Vineyards 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Wil­ sourced from old-vine plantings at the Lavelle day white wine to chill down with picnic fare. —P.G. 91 lamette Valley). Croft supplies Sauvignon vineyard. It’s breathtakingly floral, with an elegant abv: 13.1% Price: $36 Blanc grapes to a number of Oregon wineries, and frame that dapples scents of clover around tart fruit has a sure hand with its own version. The newest flavors of apple and peach. It was fermented in a Willamette Valley Vineyards 2017 Vintage 44 vintage is young, pungent, penetrating and grassy. mix of stainless tanks and neutral barrels. Enjoy 89 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Opening It touches on pea-vine, thistle, grapefruit and apple this over the next two years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. with scents and flavors of barrel toast, this is old scents and flavors, and will benefit from another abv: 12.5% Price: $20 school in style, full bodied and broad across the pal- year or two of bottle age and/or aggressive aeration. ate. Apple is the dominant fruit, with enough tan- —P.G. King Estate 2018 Croft Vineyard Pinot Gris nin to put a touch of bitterness in the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $25 91 (Willamette Valley). A rich, palate-coating abv: 12.6% Price: $45 yet high-acid style, this is loaded with bright flavors 2Hawk 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Rogue Val­ of citrus, nectarines and apples. It’s a fruit-fest for Cardwell Hill 2018 Estate Bottled The Bard 90 ley). For full review see page 18. sure, and if you love a zippy, acid-driven white wine, 88 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). At first, abv: 13.1% Price: $26 this is sure to please. —P.G. the wine’s aggressively oaky aromas and flavors abv: 13.3% Price: $26

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 King Estate 2018 Paradox Barrel Aged Pinot Cória 2019 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). The Four Graces 2019 Pinot Blanc (Willa­ 91 Gris (Willamette Valley). Unique among the 89 Showing definite sweetness on the palate, 90 mette Valley). For full review see page 21. winery’s portfolio of six or more different versions this skirts the border of off dry. Honey, ripe pears, abv: 13.5% Price: $23 of Pinot Gris, this is oak-aged. The barrel time peaches and a streak of vanilla complete a full-bod- smooths out the flavors, while imparting a lightly ied, well-rounded and fruit-forward style. It would Brigadoon 2019 Pinot Blanc (Willamette buttery, toasty accent. Scents of clover and fruit fla- be interesting to try this with a slice of peach pie or 88 Valley).­ Light and fresh, though not quite vors of apple and citrus fill out the palate. Note to pear tart. —P.G. fully ripened, this pleasant wine conjures up stamp collectors: the label is printed upside down abv: 13.1% Price: $22 impressions of celery, watercress, white radish and on purpose! —P.G. green apple. It’s an elegant wine, with a finishing abv: 13.3% Price: $35 Alexana 2019 Terroir Series Pinot Gris (Willa­ dash of cinnamon spice. —P.G. 88 mette Valley). A solid, fruity wine, this abv: 13% Price: $19 Lange 2019 Reserve Pinot Gris (Willamette mixes crisp apple and white-peach flavors. It con- 91 Valley). There’s some extra concentration in tinues along that path and into a finish that displays the reserve, which retains the tart, bracing fresh- some phenolic bite and skin tannins. —P.G. WHITE PINOT NOIR ness of the regular bottling. Fermented in a mix abv: 13.5% Price: $32 of neutral oak puncheons and concrete, it’s loaded Left Coast 2019 White Pinot Noir (Van Duzer with gooseberry, citrus, lemon rind and minerals. Apolloni 2019 Estate Pinot Gris (Willamette 92 Corridor). If you’ve not yet tried a white —P.G. 88 Valley). Ripe pear fruit, drizzled with a Pinot from Oregon, here’s a great opportunity. A abv: 13.4% Price: $28 squeeze of lemon, incorporates a subtle grainy, distinctive style is emerging, positioned halfway fleshy mouthfeel. It’s clean and straightforward, a between Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay. Some are Acrobat 2018 Pinot Gris (Oregon). For full solid example of classic Oregon Pinot Gris. Drink styled more like a rosé; others, like this one, lean 90 review see page 18. over the next two vintages while it’s at its freshest. more toward white wine flavors. Here the soft entry abv: 13.5% Price: $16 —P.G. is lightly buttery, with pretty fruit flavors of white abv: 12.9% Price: $19 peach and melon. There’s suggestion of some bar- Conveyance 2019 Pinot Gris (Willamette rel time in the scents of toasted cashews. The blend 90 Valley). This is fresh, clean and fruit for- Montinore 2018 Pinot Gris (Willamette includes 6% Pinot Meunier and 3% Pinot Blanc. ward, with flavors of pear and apple. The texture is 88 Valley).­ The color is a light tawny straw, Editors’ Choice. —P.G. spot on, keeping the fruit lively across the palate, and the aromas have a pleasantly dusty spiciness. abv: 13.9% Price: $24 and the wine finishes with a hint of wet stone. —P.G. The fruit reflects the flavors of early oxidation, with abv: 13% Price: $20 autumnal apples and hints of pollen and clover. It’s Tendril 2017 Pretender White Pinot Noir (Wil­ quite nice but should be consumed over the next 92 lamette Valley). A red grape “pretending” to Greetings 2019 Pinot Gris (Willamette year or two. —P.G. be white (hence the name), there’s a lot to love here. 90 Valley).­ The wine is much better than abv: 13.6% Price: $20 A toasty, creamy palate pulls together rich flavors of the looks of the label might suggest. It’s packed pear, peach and buttery pastry. It’s a palate-coating with ripe flavors of sliced Bartlett pears, with that Pebblestone 2018 Ellis Vineyards Block 1 pleasure bomb, and should be enjoyed over the next ­slightly grainy texture also. Though there isn’t a 88 ­Pinot Gris (Rogue Valley). Broad, palate- year. —P.G. whole lot more going on, the basic fruit is so good, coating flavors of lemon cake lead a smooth and abv: 14% Price: $65 clean and lingering, that it’s more than sufficient as lightly spicy wine. There’s a suggestion of mashed a fine all-purpose white wine.Best Buy. —P.G. pears also. The wine was fermented and aged in Willamette Valley Vineyards 2018 White abv: 13% Price: $15 stainless, and kept on the lees for a full year. —P.G. 92 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). White flow- abv: 13.4% Price: $17 ers, lemon curd, fresh apples and a streak of vanilla Lange 2019 Classiqué Pinot Gris (Willa­ wafer combine seamlessly in this flavorful white 90 mette Valley). So young and fresh it’s still Primarius 2019 Pinot Gris (Oregon). The wine. It’s a bit jarring to think that all of this comes got a bit of light fizz (CO2) going on, this is a brac- 87 ­aromas of whole pear, wet stone and apple from immediately pressing Pinot Noir as you would ing wine, with lemon verbena, green apple, lemon are followed by light bright pear flavors. It’s a a white wine grape, but it’s a magic trick that can oil and a palate-cleansing minerality. Made for early straight-down-the-fairway offering of this variety, dazzle, as it does here. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. drinking, it’s best with a light chill. Editors’ Choice. with acid driving it. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 13.2% Price: $19 RIESLING Second Growth 2019 Pinot Gris (Willamette PINOT BLANC 90 Valley). This delicious young wine is a close Brigadoon 2019 Off-dry Riesling (Willamette match to the company’s less expensive ‘Greetings’ King Estate 2018 Foris Vineyard Pinot Blanc 93 Valley). A perfect example of the off-dry version. Ripe pear fruit, along with some crisp 91 (Rogue Valley). For full review see page 16. style, this brings scents and flavors of honeysuckle apple, highlights a clean and fresh-tasting style, Editors’­ Choice. and honeydew melon, moving into a midpalate with while the supporting acids lend a squeeze of lemon. abv: 13.8% Price: $24 sweet nectarine and Cosmic Crisp apple fruit. It’s Drink over the next couple of years. —P.G. high in acid but 18 g/l of residual sugar provides a abv: 13.1% Price: $17 Bryn Mawr Vineyards 2019 David’s Block delicious sweet-tart balance. Drink now or age it for 90 Pinot Blanc (Eola-Amity Hills). Quite dry up to a decade. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Compton Family 2018 Garden Series Pinot and tart, this is a wine for acid lovers. It opens with abv: 12% Price: $22 89 Gris (Willamette Valley). Smooth fruit fla- light scents of white flowers and flavors of tart tan- vors of pear and peach come with a spicy, lightly gerines. The theme continues with hints of botani- Montinore 2019 Almost Dry Riesling (Wil­ peppery kick. This was fermented entirely in stain- cal herbs and a squeeze of lime. The concentration 93 lamette Valley). Sourced from old vines less steel, and has enough bottle age to be approach- and balance belie a wine with alcohol under 12%. with an average age of 37 years, this outstanding ing its best drinking window. —P.G. —P.G. wine will show best if it’s not over-chilled. Fer- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 11.6% Price: $25 mented entirely­ in stainless steel with a German yeast strain, it’s smooth and supple, with rounded

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BUYINGGUIDE flavors of apples, citrus, pears and kumquats. The cal scents and flavors abound, and the palate is pre- King Estate 2018 Quail Run Vineyards Rous­ lengthy finish adds a streak of breakfast tea.Edi - cise and punches down in clear, crisp detail. Drink 87 sanne-Marsanne (Rogue Valley). This pleas- tors’ Choice. —P.G. this slightly chilled to firm up the finish. —P.G. ant blend is 64% Roussanne, 23% Marsanne and abv: 11.3% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $32 13% Viognier. Round and lightly toasty, it has just enough acid to keep the flavors lively. There are Brigadoon 2019 Dry Riesling (Willamette Pebblestone 2018 Ellis Vineyards Block light green fruits and herbs and a finish with lemon 92 Valley).­ This will have plenty of appeal for 87 8 Viognier (Rogue Valley). A sharp and meringue. The overall impression is that this fruit those who enjoy a high-acid style. The searing tart- strongly herbal wine, this amplifies Viognier’s natu- was on the lean edge of ripeness. —P.G. ness is somewhat mitigated by 8 g/l of residual ral bent toward botanical flavors, with bitter citrus abv: 13.9% Price: $28 sugar, just enough to round things off a bit. Dried rind. Grapefruit pith and lime skins come through, apples, oranges, grapefruit and lemon-rind fla- along with other citrus notes, but what’s absent is vors give this exceptional density and complexity any off-setting fruit sweetness. —P.G. SPARKLING WINES through a long finish. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $22 abv: 12% Price: $22 Left Coast 2016 Brut Rosé of Pinot Meunier 92 (Van Duzer Corridor). This exceptional spar- Bryn Mawr Vineyards 2019 Estate Ries­ OTHER WHITE WINES kler weaves together complex, nutty flavors in a 92 ling (Eola­ -Amity Hills). Estate grown and snappy, sexy, delicious and irresistible style. Apples medium dry (as the back label indicates), this is a Abacela 2019 Albariño (Umpqua Valley). are the core (forgive the pun) fruit, but that’s just complex weave of lemon juice, curd, dried apricot 91 This rich, ripe and supremely fragrant effort the beginning. Buttered popcorn, toasted hazel- and orange peel. It tilts toward tartness, though bursts open with scents of lemon oil and orange nuts, lemon oil and citrus-rind components can be rounded out just a bit with a dollop of residual peel. The palate-coating fruit flavors run through sniffed and savored. This is the sort of wine that sugar. With good balance and plenty of acid, it can Mandarin ­oranges, ripe apple and a frame of lemon should be bottled in a one liter size—a standard 750 age indefinitely, but should be in a prime drinking rind. It’s lush and lively, bolstered with sappy acids, disappears way too soon. —P.G. window for the next six to year years. —P.G. through a long finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.1% Price: $55 abv: 11.8% Price: $25 abv: 13.2% Price: $21 Trinity Vineyards 2018 This-n-That Pinot Alexana 2019 Revana Vineyard Riesling Cooper Mountain 2019 Tocai Friulano (Wil­ 90 Noir (Willamette Valley). A pét-nat sealed 91 (Dundee Hills). Dry and balanced, this is a 90 lamette Valley). A relative of Sauvignon with a crown cap, this is utterly captivating. Bold fruit-driven wine with good aging potential. Tart Blanc, this unusual grape has lovely floral highlights fruitcandy flavors of strawberry and cherry are the apple, lemon, pineapple and peach flavors come and plenty of tart citrus. The crunchy apple fruit stars here, with lively bubbles and immaculate acid- together in a well-integrated whole, with snappy is paired with tangy tangerine, and it adds up to ity. The wine was fermented with native yeast and acids and excellent concentration. —P.G. a refreshing, acid-driven alternative to the more bottle conditioned with no added sulfites. Drink abv: 12.9% Price: $32 standard Willamette Valley whites. —P.G. this gem right now. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13.4% Price: $36 Argyle 2018 Nuthouse Riesling (Eola-Amity 91 Hills). Flavors of ripe golden apples and nec- Troon 2019 Kubli Bench Amber (Applegate Troon 2019 Estate Bottled Kubli Bench tarines, with a defining lick of pink grapefruit, set 90 Valley). An orange wine, this was produced 90 Piquette Méthode Ancestrale (Applegate up this palate-perfect old-vine Riesling. At 12 g/l from a blend of three-quarters Riesling and one- Valley). ­For full review see page 21. Editors’ Choice. r­esidual sugar it is still basically dry, but rounded quarter split between Vermentino and Viognier, all abv: 10.5% Price: $25 off a bit. There is certainly the potential to age this, fermented on the skins. Scents of orange blossoms but the fresh fruit is awfully compelling. It finishes abound, and the flavors are exceptionally fresh and Bryn Mawr Vineyards 2019 Sparkling Rosé with a hint of bubblegum. —P.G. clean. The sharp acids emphasize flavors of citrus 88 (Willamette Valley). Though not made in abv: 12.5% Price: $30 flesh and rind, and there are noticeable tannins, the Champagne method, this is neither simple nor firming up the finish. Drink now and into 2022. clumsy. In fact the unusual blend—52% Pinot Noir, Château Bianca 2019 Riesling (Van Duzer —P.G. 28% Pinot Gris, 17% Tempranillo and 3% Maréchal 90 Corridor).­ This has the appealing sweet- abv: 13.3% Price: $30 Foch—holds together well. Flavors of citrus, straw- tart puckery mouthfeel and flavor of past vintages. berry and red cherry come together with a hint of It’s a bright, fresh wine, with off-dry flavors of ripe Château Bianca 2019 Gewürztraminer (Van toast from barrel fermentation. It’s sealed with a apple. The balance between fruit and acid is spot 87 Duzer Corridor). This is a pleasant, quaffable crown cap and ready for immediate enjoyment. on, and it’s a good match to fruit-based desserts. white wine, slightly off-dry, but it almost ­ompletelyc —P.G. Best Buy. —P.G. lacks varietal specificity. Light flavors of clean apple abv: 11.8% Price: $28 abv: 12% Price: $15 and pear fruit are combined with moderate acidity and a touch of residual sugar. But in a blind tasting it would be hard to identify this as Gewürztraminer. ROSÉ OF PINOT NOIR VIOGNIER —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Big Table Farm 2019 Laughing Pig Pinot Noir King Estate 2018 Quail Run Vineyards Viog­ 92 Rosé (Willamette Valley). Fresh pressed and 92 nier (Rogue Valley). For full review see page King Estate 2018 Crater View Vineyard Semil­ unpressed berries are soaked together for several 13. Editors’­ Choice. 87 lon (Rogue Valley). Rare in Oregon, this com- days, then pressed and the juice is barrel fermented. abv: 13.6% Price: $26 pletely dry Semillon is light and herbal, as the low Voilà—a splendid bottle of rosé, with the sort of lay- finished alcohol would suggest. Think wine salad, ered complexity rarely found in such “unserious” Left Coast 2017 Field of Dreams Viognier but with impeccable freshness and plenty of acid. vino. A floral mix of cherries and roses accompanies 91 (Willamette­ Valley). Viognier is rare in the The overall balance is fine, and this is the sort of ripe flavors of tart cherry and freshly picked straw- Willamette Valley, but examples such as Penner- easy-drinking, low alcohol quaffable white wine berries. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Ash prove its ­viability. Here’s another good one: a that is perfect for warm weather. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $32 judicious blend of one-third concrete egg and two- abv: 12.6% Price: $28 thirds French oak barrel ferments. Gin-like botani-

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Rambeaux 2018 Pinot Noir Rosé (Willamette pretty strawberry fruit dappled with white pepper. ­orange peel and lime zest—thoroughly fascinat- 92 Valley). Though it’s two years past vintage, The vibrant acids bring a touch of citrus, and the ing. Fresh, focused, vibrant flavors follow, showing this wine has only profited from the extra aging. wine is so round and ripe it feels almost fleshy. —P.G. depth, intensity, detail, texture and purity. Stone Sourced from Dundee Hills vineyards, it’s aromatic,­ abv: 13.2% Price: $25 and strawberry notes linger on the finish. It’s a little with scents and flavors of peaches and vanilla. sip of rosé nirvana. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. There’s a well-detailed finish, which brings in grace Willamette Valley Vineyards 2019 Estate abv: 12.4% Price: $50 notes of cinnamon and toast. —P.G. 90 Rosé (Willamette Valley). A textbook abv: 13.7% Price: $35 ­Oregon rosé produced entirely from Pinot Noir, this 2Hawk 2019 Grenache Rosé (Rogue Valley). is bursting with watermelon and strawberry fruit 91 Far beyond a simple quaffer, this is a classy, Samuel Robert 2019 Vintner’s Reserve Pinot flavors, and backed with juicy acidity. It’s a fresh, detailed wine built upon a solid foundation of 91 Noir Rosé (Willamette Valley). An astonish- clean, elegant and most quaffable style. —P.G. ­rhubarb, strawberry and cherry pastry. There’s a ing value, this all-Pinot, Willamette Valley rosé is abv: 13% Price: $24 bit of a whipped cream character, or maybe lemon scented with luxurious rose petals and piercing cit- ­meringue, adding depth and texture. Along with rus rind. The palate cascades through watermelon Willamette Valley Vineyards 2019 Whole Quady North, 2Hawk is making a very strong case and strawberry flavors, not sweet but round and full 90 Cluster Rosé of Pinot Noir (Willamette for placing Rogue Valley Grenache rosés among the bodied. There’s a lively spiciness as it winds down, Valley).­ For full review see page 22. Editors’ Choice. best in the country. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. and the finish just doesn’t quit.Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 12.9% Price: $26 abv: 13% Price: $15 Alexana 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Willamette Abacela 2019 Grenache Rosé (Umpqua Shea 2019 Shea Vineyard Rosé of Pinot Noir 89 Valley). Fermented in neutral oak, this all- 90 Valley).­ This is a powerful fruit-driven 91 (Yamhill-Carlton). A lovely expression of an Pinot rosé is smooth and supple. The fruit flavors wine. Flavors of ripe grapefruit, crisp apple and all-Pinot, single-vineyard rosé, this elegant wine show strawberries and citrus, and the wine finishes hints of lemon peel combine in a lovely bottle that offers watermelon, strawberry and white raspberry. with a lingering grip. —P.G. would be a perfect companion to cold chicken. It’s juicy and crisp, clean through the finish, with abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Editors’­ Choice. —P.G. an abundance of texture and beautiful definition. abv: 13.2% Price: $19 —P.G. Bryn Mawr Vineyards 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir abv: 12.5% Price: $35 88 (Willamette Valley). Picked early and barrel Red Hills Cellars 2019 Grenache Rosé (Rogue fermented, this is a bright and fresh rosé with a tasty 88 Valley). A deep cranberry hue, this is s­cented Apolloni 2019 Pinot Noir Rosé (Willamette fruit mix of watermelon, strawberry and raspberry. with rose petals and vanilla wafers. The fruit brings 90 Valley). A pale copper-salmon color, this It doesn’t move much past that, but most rosés are ripe strawberries and pie cherries front and center. is focused and tart, sporting sour plum and cherry not expected to delivers depth and complexity. Fresh It’s a big wine for a rosé, with enough concentration flavors. There are more tannins than the color might fruit is the goal here, and quite successfully met. to anchor a meal of poultry, salmon or pork. —P.G. suggest, and they beef up the finish and add some —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $25 staying power to the wine. —P.G. abv: 12.3% Price: $25 abv: 12.8% Price: $19 Cardwell Hill 2019 Rosé from Pinot Noir (Wil­ OTHER ROSÉS Argyle 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Willamette 88 lamette Valley). Made entirely with estate- 90 Valley). Sourced from the Knudsen and grown Pinot Noir, this is a pink-cherry color, and Fullerton 2019 Three Otters Rosé (Willa­ Spirit Hill vineyards, this is a light and pretty cop- tastes just barely sweet. The fruit flavors are typical 90 mette Valley). This blended rosé is princi- pery pink, scented with orange blossoms and laced watermelon and strawberry, fresh and quaffable. pally Pinot Gris, with 10% Pinot Noir providing the with bracing citrus flavors. The strawberry and Nothing too fancy here, but it is a fine all-purpose color. It’s fresh and leesy, with a crisp underlying watermelon fruit falls on the tart side, but the over- rosé to be enjoyed over the next few months. —P.G. minerality. The fruit flavors run to strawberry and all impression is that this is a stylish and impecca- abv: 13.2% Price: $20 white melon, with excellent length. —P.G. bly fresh rosé that can be chilled and enjoyed with abv: 12.5% Price: $20 almost any kind of outdoor picnic fare. Editors’ Cória 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Willamette Choice. —P.G. 88 Valley). A pale shade of copper, this all- Greetings 2019 Rosé (Willamette Val­ abv: 12% Price: $27 Pinot rosé is light in flavor as well. Close to white 90 ley). Though the actual variety content is wine flavors of grapefruit and green strawberries unknown, this appears to be made from Pinot Noir, Brigadoon 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Wil­ combine with plenty of acidity, setting this up as an with pretty aromas of rose petals and wild straw- 90 lamette Valley). A pretty, coppery rose, easy apéritif or accompaniment to chilled shrimp or berries. The juicy acidity keeps it lively and fresh, this is bursting with watermelon and strawberry chicken salad. —P.G. and the floral highlights add a touch of elegance. fruit. Though not at all spritzy, the minerality gives abv: 13.3% Price: $24 Best Buy. —P.G. an impression of a LaCroix Sparking Water berry abv: 13% Price: $15 mixer—all in all a most delightful rosé. —P.G. Elouan 2019 Rosé (Oregon). Though the abv: 13% Price: $20 88 ­label reads simply rosé, this is 100% Pinot Martin Woods 2019 Rosé (Willamette V­alley). Noir. A coppery rose color, it’s nicely loaded with 88 This blended rosé is composed of 40% Compton Family 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir fruit flavors of watermelon and strawberry, and ­Pinot Noir, 20% Gamay Noir, 30% Gewürztra- 90 (Willamette Valley). This light-copper-col- ­finishes tart and dry. —P.G. miner and 10% Riesling. Despite the aromatic ored wine was fermented in a concrete egg, which abv: 12.7% Price: $20 white grapes, it’s the Pinot and Gamay that domi- gives it unusual texture and some drying minerality. nate, with big-bodied flavors of strawberries and It’s a distinctive take on rosé, which does nothing to cherries, apples and citrus. It’s more substantial harm the strawberry fruit, highlighted with a whiff ROSÉ OF GRENACHE than all-Pinot rosés, yet less refined, with a chunky of fresh orange peel and ample acidity. —P.G. mouthfeel. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $18 Cayuse 2018 Edith Grenache Armada Vineyard abv: 13% Price: $28 94 Rosé (Walla Walla Valley). Pale copper in Hamacher 2019 Pinot Noir Rosé (Willamette color, this wine smells like it is a bowl of wet stones, Second Growth 2019 Rosé (Willamette 90 Valley). A full-bodied style, this pushes sprinkled with bits of dried strawberry, dried 88 Valley).­ Fragrant with a range of tree fruits,

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BUYINGGUIDE there is an inherent earthy character that puts some proportioned tannins. The integration and overall Frères). A mix of Dijon 114 and Pommard clones, it’s grit into the finish—a bit odd for a rosé. The light structure show a masterful touch, and this wine a sculpted wine, stylish and tart. It seems younger­ apple and citrus flavors seem slightly overmatched may be tucked away and revisited from the mid- than the rest of the 2018s, and more in need of fur- by the tannins, but a good hard cheese will fix all 2020s on into the 2030s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. ther bottle age to flesh out. Blackberry fruit and tart that. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $85 tangy acids define a compact wine with pinpoint abv: 12.7% Price: $17 focus. Drink this from 2022 on and over the next Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Estate Vine­ decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Troon 2019 Kubli Bench Rosé (Applegate 95 yard First Vines Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). abv: 13.8% Price: $60 88 Valley). A unique blend of 60% Tinta Roriz, The previous owners planted these vines in 1984, 35% Primitivo and 5% Grenache, this is a light and and they’ve been overtaken by phylloxera, so this is Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Freedom Hill Vine­ lively wine, finished quite dry with modest alcohol. ­likely the last edition of the ‘First Vines’ cuvée. With 94 yard Pommard Clone Pinot Noir (Willamette Hints of berry, apple and a whiff of ham make it old-vine elegance and subtle detail, it mixes brambly Valley). This bursts open with lovely blackberry and more than one-dimensional. —P.G. berries along with a streak of cherry cola. Balance black-cherry fruit, along with generous streaks of abv: 11.7% Price: $25 and texture are its hallmarks, and if this indeed is mocha and cola. It’s balanced and well integrated the end of it, it’s a graceful, generous goodbye. —P.G. already, with a long, clean, textured finish: a very Conveyance 2019 Rosé (Willamette Valley). abv: 13.7% Price: $72 fine value.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 87 This is a blended and fruity rosé, not made abv: 14.1% Price: $48 with Pinot Noir, other than as a color-adding grape. Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Freedom Hill Vine­ Apple and pear fruit dominates, with a light hint of 95 yard Dijon 115 Clone Pinot Noir (Willamette Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Olenik Vine­ wild strawberries. It’s full bodied and pleasant, in a Valley). For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. 94 yard Wadensvil Block Pinot Noir (Chehalem simple but satisfying style. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $48 Mountains). Licorice and espresso highlights cloak abv: 12.8% Price: $20 ripe black-cherry fruit sourced from vines planted Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Notorious Pinot­ in 1991. There’s a lightly roasted, slightly charred Croft Vineyards 2019 Ridge Roamer Pinot Gris 95 Noir (Willamette Valley). This multi-vine- character, adding texture and aromatics, and the 87 Rosé (Willamette Valley). Note that this is yard, barrel-select reserve wine sports a green finishing tannins are ripe and polished. —P.G. essentially Pinot Gris, with just 2% Pinot Noir added ­label and is given the royal treatment of 100% abv: 13.9% Price: $48 to give it a rosé hue. Flavors are white wine all the new French oak. It’s rich and toasty, loaded with way, light citrus and apple, with plenty of acid. —P.G. ripe berry and cherry fruit, and streaked with cola. Shea 2017 Shea Vineyard Homer Pinot Noir abv: 12.6% Price: $18 The full-bodied, deeply-driven flavors build into a 94 (Willamette Valley). Homer is the winery’s lush, sexy finish. It’s instantly impressive, long and barrel-selection reserve: a full-bodied, full-flavored The Four Graces 2019 Rosé (Willamette smooth, and beautifully proportioned. —P.G. compendium of two favored blocks. Fermented and 86 Valley).­ This is 92% Pinot Gris, with 7% abv: 13.9% Price: $85 aged in 50% new French oak, the dominant fruits Pinot Noir, mostly for color, and a splash of Muscat, are blueberries and black cherry, with a rich vein of presumably for enhanced aromatics. Apple flavors, Bethel Heights 2017 West Block Pinot Noir coffee and roasted nuts. —P.G. with a light hint of strawberry, pretty much sum it 94 (Eola-Amity Hills). The West Block vines abv: 14.7% Price: $92 up. It’s a pleasant, but rather nondescript style of date back to 1977, yielding a stylish, tart, black- rosé. —P.G. fruited Pinot with complementary layers of choco- Walter Scott 2018 Seven Springs Vineyard abv: 13% Price: $21 late, mocha, cola and sandalwood. The long, smooth 94 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Crafted from a finish remains compact but should broaden out blend of four Dijon clones planted in the Selection Acrobat 2019 Rosé (Oregon). It seems that with further bottle age. The tannins, as with all Massale (genetically diverse) method, this lovely 85 Acrobat has dumped its all-Pinot Noir rosé of Bethel Heights Pinots, are beautifully ripened. wine is a perfect expression of what is arguably the in favor of this simple Pinot Gris, colored with a Editors’­ Choice. —P.G. most widely-celebrated vineyard in the Eola-Amity splash of its red brother. Although this is pink like abv: 13.2% Price: $60 AVA. The aromas run from lavender to strawberry a rosé, in terms of flavor it just a light, tart, generic to raspberry, with a streak of vanilla coming up from Pinot Gris. —P.G. Brittan Vineyards 2017 Cygnus Block Pinot aging 15 months in 35% new oak. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 94 Noir (McMinnville). The Cygnus is 100% —P.G. Swan clone, and stands out among the 2017s for its abv: 13.5% Price: $65 exceptional fruit mix of strawberry, raspberry and PINOT NOIR cherry. The acids bring a twist of lemon, while aging Walter Scott 2018 X-Novo Vineyard Pinot in 28% new French oak adds a streak of caramel and 94 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Mixed aromatics Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Durant Vineyard a whiff of toast. Though all of Brittan’s 2017s show show dried leaves, pie cherries, breakfast tea and 96 Madrone Block Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). less of the site’s defining minerality, it’s evident here mushrooms, anticipating a marvelously complex Yet another standout among the two dozen Pinots in the drying finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. palate comprised of 15 different clones. The nuanced from Patricia Green Cellars, this melds scents of abv: 13.7% Price: $60 subtlety is on full display, propelled by 30% whole pretty baking spices to spicy cherry fruit. Complex clusters and a very sure touch by the winemaker. and expressive, among the details are hints of orange Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Balcombe Block It’s exciting to see the richness of detail that can peel and a whiff of composted earth. It’s a stylish and 94 1B Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This brightly result from finding the perfect time to pick these unique expression of this quality site in the Dundee fruity, downright pretty wine brings silky blueberry grapes. Drink this gem now into the early 2030s. Hills, and at this price represents a sensational and cherry fruit front and center. The slightly loamy Cellar ­ ­Selection. —P.G. ­bargain. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. tannins have a generous texture, and the finish is abv: 13.5% Price: $65 abv: 13.9% Price: $42 supported with balanced acidity and a sprinkling of baking spices. —P.G. Alexana 2017 Revana Vineyard Block 8-Clone Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2017 Édition ­Limitée abv: 14% Price: $60 93 777 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Both a block 95 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Svelte is a good and barrel selection, this is concentrated and tightly word for the mouthfeel of this smooth, even silky Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Estate Vineyard focused, powered by ripe black-cherry fruit. There’s expression. There’s a touch of char around dense 94 Etzel Block Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This a thread of compost, a hint of wet hay, sharp acids, black-cherry fruit, with perfectly ripened and block borders the vineyards of Michael Etzel (Beaux

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 excellent texture and impressive length. Drink now The texture and depth reward your focused should drink very well over the next half decade or through the mid-2020s. —P.G. ­attention. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. longer. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $125 abv: 14.4% Price: $60 abv: 13.8% Price: $38

Bethel Heights 2017 Southeast Block Pinot Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2017 Laurène Pinot Lenné Estate 2017 Jill’s 115 Pinot Noir (Yam­ 93 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Sourced from own- 93 Noir (Dundee Hills). Not to overgeneralize, 93 hill-Carlton). As is often true of single-clone rooted Pommard planted in 1979, this taut, racy but many if not most Willamette Valley Pinots were selections, this drills vertically down through the wine brings up a tightly woven matrix of raspberry, significantly bigger, bolder and richer in 2016 than palate. What it sacrifices in breadth it gains in blackberry and black-cherry fruit. Barrel aging adds in 2017. DDO’s 2017s are one exception: just as good depth and focus, here centered around bright rasp- well-proportioned elements of cola, toast and bak- and in some instances even better this vintage. Ripe berry fruit and highlights of orange peel. It’s a styl- ing spices. Drinking quite well already, this should scents and flavors highlight blueberry compote, ish wine that should reward cellaring. Drink 2022 continue to improve over the next half decade. dappled with fresh herbs, notably rosemary and and into the early 2030s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. —P.G. thyme. It’s an elegant, nicely detailed wine, with the abv: 13.6% Price: $55 abv: 13.5% Price: $60 structure to improve over the next decade or longer. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Freedom Hill Big Table Farm 2018 Earth Pinot Noir (Willa­ abv: 13.9% Price: $75 93 Vineyard Coury Clone Pinot Noir (Willamette 93 mette Valley). Earth is the winery’s reserve Valley). The cuttings were obtained from Hyland bottling. This new vintage is smooth and rich, with Drouhin Oregon Roserock 2017 Zéphirine vineyard vines planted in 1972. It’s an aromatic extra ripe fruit flavors of plum and cherry compote. 93 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This barrel wine, with clean and fresh scents and flavors of Time in barrel adds sweet spices and a light dusting selection, a so-called “reference expression of the rhubarb and raspberry. Some pretty toasty accents of coffee grounds. —P.G. site”, is named for a species of climbing rose. As a come up through the elegant, complex finish. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $105 reference point for the site and the AVA it works abv: 13.9% Price: $75 quite well, with firm black-cherry fruit at the core, Big Table Farm 2018 Pelos Sandberg Vineyard and highlights of coffee and earth in the polished Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Medici Vineyard 93 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). For full review tannins. —P.G. 93 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). The ­color see page 8. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.1% Price: $65 already shows hints of bricking, and this wine abv: 13.9% Price: $62 seems to be maturing quickly, and may be enjoyed Dusky Goose 2015 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). immediately. There’s a whiff of compost in the nose, Brittan Vineyards 2017 Basalt Block Pinot 93 With inviting fruit flavors of strawberry muted cherry fruit, and an impression of sawdust. 93 Noir (McMinnville). Lovely scents of violets puree and cherry pie, this smooth and tasty wine That said, it’s forward, full bodied and quite deli- and strawberries introduce this new release. Straw- beguiles from the first sniff on through the last sip. cious once it’s breathed open a bit. Drink now and berry and cherry-fruit flavors are balanced against Dusty baking spices add texture and detail, along over the next two or three years. —P.G. a range of baking spices, notably cumin and saffron. with a taste of pastry crust. The wine was aged abv: 13.9% Price: $48 The balance and persistence are exceptional. The 18 months in one-quarter new French oak. At five wine was aged a year in 15% new barrels. —P.G. years of age it’s entering a prime drinking window. Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Weber Vineyard abv: 13.2% Price: $60 Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 93 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). The vines date abv: 14.3% Price: $75 back to 1983, among the oldest in the entire Patri- Brittan Vineyards 2017 Gestalt Block Pinot cia Green portfolio. Brambly purple plum and berry 93 Noir (McMinnville). All of Robert Brittan’s Fullerton 2018 Bjornson Vineyard Pinot Noir fruits come with a streak of graphite or pencil lead, 2017 Pinots are finished at lower alcohol levels than 93 (Eola-Amity Hills). This lively, sappy wine is which underscores the slightly grainy tannins. the previous vintage, but remain balanced and rip- an early standout from the 2018 vintage. Ripe fruit There’s a whiff of fresh ground coffee also. —P.G. ened appropriately. This is full flavored, with rasp- flavors of raspberry puree are adorned with ginger abv: 14% Price: $48 berry and black-cherry fruit, juicy acids, and hints bread and baking-spice highlights. It finishes tight of mushroom and earth. It’s a bit high-toned, with and tart, balanced and with enough ripe tannins to Shea 2017 Shea Vineyard Block 23 Pinot Noir subtle volatility that will only be obvious to those warrant a decade of aging. Drink 2022 to the early 93 (Willamette Valley). Pure Pommard clone, quite sensitive to it. But the overall concentration 2030s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. this lovely bottle is smooth as silk with luscious and length power it beautifully. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $65 fruit flavors of blueberry and plum. The wine is abv: 13.1% Price: $60 elevated and elongated with deliciously toasty bar- Lange 2017 Lange Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir rel flavors, and the inclusion of 12% whole clusters Broadley 2018 Temperance Hill Pinot Noir 93 (Dundee Hills). The estate vineyard dates puts a light frame around the finish. —P.G. 93 (Willamette Valley). This single-vineyard from the late 1980s, and delivers ripe deep flavors abv: 14.6% Price: $66 offering shows firm flavors and scents of figs, black of sweet blueberry pie. Aging in one-third new fruits and cola. There’s a hint of orange liqueur, French oak puts the pastry and baking-spice flavors Shea 2017 Shea Vineyard Block 5 Pinot Noir and a streak of citrus. The flavors plunge dense, up front, but the concentrated fruit is the perfect 93 (Willamette Valley). Block 5 is all Dijon deep and detailed on through the palate, with well- match, and the wine retains its focus through a lin- 777 clone, fermented and aged in 40% new French managed phenolics framing the tannins. One year in gering, utterly delicious finish. —P.G. oak. It’s tightly focused with bright fruit flavors of 30% new French oak puts on the perfect finishing abv: 13.9% Price: $70 raspberry jam. Clean and precise, it would be an touches. —P.G. interesting wine to cellar for another half decade, abv: 13.9% Price: $55 Left Coast 2016 Latitude 45 Pinot Noir (Van although the youth and freshness make it difficult 93 Duzer Corridor). This is a reserve-level bar- to set aside. —P.G. Cooper Mountain 2017 Old Vines Mountain rel selection from the oldest estate vineyard. In this abv: 14.6% Price: $66 93 Terroir Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). From excellent vintage, it’s a superstar—firm, dense and vines planted in 1978, this is a smooth, supple and supple, loaded with black fruits and highlights of Shea 2017 Shea Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir richly fruity wine, with a lush mix of blackberries, cola. There’s a light hint of peat moss and a dust- 93 (Willamette Valley). For full review see page ripe figs and black-cherry fruit. There’s a whiff of ing of spice. The wine knits together beautifully and 10. Editors’ Choice. smoke and streaks of dark chocolate and espresso.­ abv: 14% Price: $45

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Soléna 2018 Hyland Vineyard Pinot Noir nolics. It’s been entirely whole-cluster fermented, City Winery Hudson Valley 2017 Durant 93 (McMinnville).­ Many vintners seek out and aged just under a year in 12% new French oak. 92 Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). ­Hyland fruit, but Soléna owns the vineyard, so one There’s an elegance to the frame and a deft balance A full-bodied well-rounded wine, with immediate must assume they get the pick of the crop from the throughout, which suggests tucking a few bottles appeal, this is loaded with pretty cherry fruit, a old-vine mix of Coury, Pommard and Wädenswil away for a few years longer. —P.G. broad streak of cola and sweet spices from aging 18 clones. Licorice, coffee and chocolate highlights set abv: 13.2% Price: $85 months in 20% new French oak. The wine saturates the tone here, with blackberry and black-cherry the palate, adding hints of cut tobacco, ground cof- fruit providing an ample foundation. —P.G. White Rose 2018 White Rose Vineyard Pinot fee and a dusting of cocoa. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $55 93 Noir (Dundee Hills). As with the winery’s abv: 14.5% Price: $55 other Pinots, there’s a gentle hand at work, using Tendril 2016 TightRope Pinot Noir (Willa­ just 10% new French oak, though this is the top Cória 2016 Mary Sharon Estate Pinot Noir 93 mette Valley). Layered and complex, this wine from the estate. The low alcohol suggests it 92 (Willamette Valley). At four years old and punches up blackberry and black-cherry fruit with was picked early, and the flavors offer a subtle mix sourced from an exceptional vintage, this wine is seams of tobacco and sea salt chocolate. Aged 18 of blood orange, plum, blueberry and blackberry just now beginning to show its long-term potential. months in two thirds new French oak, it’s dusted fruit. Though delicate, it’s not lacking for depth Supple, well-knit flavors combine brambly fruit, with baking spices and still retains the supporting or complexity, and shows medium concentration cedar, tobacco, baking spices and whiffs of lightly acids that make this vintage a good one to cellar. At through a long finish. —P.G. charred wood. The wine has texture, length and four years of age, this is just now entering its best abv: 12.9% Price: $125 power to spare. The only question: will the fruit drinking window. —P.G. continue to hold up against all the barrel flavors? abv: 14.1% Price: $70 Andrew Rich 2017 Eola Pinot Noir (Eola- Time will tell. —P.G. 92 Amity Hills). Sweet marionberry fruit rocks abv: 13.5% Price: $60 Walter Scott 2018 Freedom Hill Vineyard this wine, from the enticing aromas on through the 93 ­Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A fine note of sappy, sexy finish. As those flavors gently trail away, Drouhin Oregon Roserock 2017 Pinot Noir silty earth underscores the herbal accents particu- harmonious notes of chocolate and coffee lead a 92 (Eola-Amity Hills). Supple and sexy, this is lar to fruit from this outstanding vineyard. Brambly pleasing finish. —P.G. anchored in purple and black fruits, accented with berries and tart pie cherries are the principal fruits, abv: 14.2% Price: $45 a wash of coffee liqueur. Further barrel-related fla- well balanced against the earthiness. Aging in 35% vors bring malted milk candy into the mix, yet the new oak adds a hint of allspice. —P.G. Bethel Heights 2017 Flat Block Pinot Noir wine remains balanced and beautifully integrated, abv: 13.5% Price: $55 92 (Eola-Amity Hills). Sourced from own-rooted­ and none of the expressive flavors seem overdone. Pommard vines planted in 1979, this puts its fruit Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Walter Scott 2018 Justice Vineyard Pinot Noir flavors on broad display across the full palate, with abv: 14.1% Price: $35 93 (Eola-Amity Hills). This vineyard is owned blackberry dominant amidst streaks of cola. It shows and farmed by the Casteel family, whose Bethel some minerality more than earthiness, which lends a Fullerton 2017 Bella Vida Vineyard Pinot Heights winery is just up the road. Wild, sauvage drying aspect to the finishing tannins. Drink now and 92 Noir (Dundee Hills). Another fine vintage for berry flavors are highlighted with orange rind, and over the next decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. this single-vineyard cuvée, it opens with a whiff of there’s a touch of rhubarb also. It’s an earthy, edgy abv: 13.3% Price: $60 minty spice, truffle and red fruits. On the palate it wine, with drying tannins that carry a bottom note mingles raspberry, red plum and Bing cherry, with of mineral. —P.G. Big Table Farm 2018 Pinot Noir (Willamette svelte tannins buoyed by hints of citrus. Just one- abv: 13.5% Price: $55 92 Valley). Clare Carver’s hand-drawn label quarter of the barrels were new French oak. —P.G. honors the winery’s farm pigs Sam and Rick, who abv: 13.5% Price: $65 Walter Scott 2018 Sequitur Vineyard Pinot had “a great life, one bad moment”. Bright fruit 93 Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Sourced from Mike flavors of berry candy, cranberry and black cherry Fullerton 2017 Fir Crest Vineyard Pinot Noir Etzel’s vineyard above Beaux Frères, this is Walter are backed with tongue-tickling acids. The bal- 92 (Yamhill-Carlton). At first warmly fruity Scott’s only Ribbon Ridge offering. One-quarter anced tannins push the big bold fruit flavors right and laced with scents of baking spices, this turns a whole clusters were included, yielding a rich palate, on through the finish, streaked with cola.Editors’ bit more brisk through the palate, while maintain- with bright raspberry fruit and highlights of light Choice. —P.G. ing pleasingly fruity flavors of cherry pie and apple compost and cedar plank. It’s a smooth full-bodied abv: 14.1% Price: $45 cobbler. The underlying acidity provides dynamic wine, and the young vines, farmed biodynamically, tension through the finish. The wine saw 30% new should continue to deliver more and more complex- Brittan Vineyards 2017 Estate Pinot Noir French oak during the aging process. —P.G. ity in the years ahead. —P.G. 92 (Willamette Valley). This is a blend of abv: 13.7% Price: $65 abv: 13.5% Price: $65 fruit from the estate’s three designated blocks, and includes all five clones grown here. Full bodied and Hamacher 2016 Pinot Noir (Willamette Walter Scott 2018 Temperance Hill Vineyard ripe, it’s loaded with plum and sweet cherry fruit. 92 Valley).­ Rich and evocative aromas call up 93 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This iconic A touch of spice elevates the finish, which is just baking spices, bread dough, pastry crust and cherry vineyard is notable for its remarkably diverse eleva- slightly high-toned, but more than slightly delicious. cobbler. The flavors do not disappoint, with ample tions and slopes. This one-acre block of 28-year-old Editors’ Choice. —P.G. acidity keeping them lively and adding touches of vines gets hit hard by the Van Duzer Corridor winds, abv: 13.5% Price: $40 lemon verbena. Lightly herbal and peppery, it’s and the finished wine is redolent with scents of vio- a well-balanced wine with the delicious fruit and lets, spicy pine needles, sage and clove. Wild berries Broadley 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette barrel mix of flavors that urge near-term drinking. and plums, juicy acids and exceptional balance are 92 Valley). This enchants immediately with a —P.G. among the core strengths. Enjoy this over the next lush mix of aromas and flavors from fruit, soil and abv: 13.5% Price: $60 decade or longer. Cellar Selection. —P.G. barrel. Earth, graphite, ripe raspberries and Dr abv: 13.5% Price: $65 ­Pepper highlights combine to offer plenty of imme- Lange 2017 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir diate pleasure. Tannins are grippy but contained. 92 (Willamette Valley). This marquee vineyard White Rose 2018 Guillen Vineyard Pinot This should drink nicely over the next half decade. delivers the goods as usual in a lovely wine packed 93 Noir (Dundee Hills). Bright, spicy plum and Editors’ Choice. —P.G. with sassy blueberries. The barrel aging in French cherry fruit is underscored with skin and stem phe- abv: 13.9% Price: $35 oak, 40% new, adds a welcome touch of toast, with-

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 out diminishing the delicious freshness of the fruit. Résonance 2017 Résonance Vineyard Pinot Sojourner), this mixes generous floral, herbal and It firms up through the finish, with tannins that 92 Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). Lovely aromas of earthy aromas, leading into a complex palate loaded bring a seam of graphite and flavors of black tea. blackberries, along with hints of pepper and smoke, with blackberry fruit. The fermentation included —P.G. lead into a tasty wine with even more berries and 30% whole clusters and the wine was aged in 228 abv: 14.1% Price: $70 plums. Aged 17 months in 30% new oak, it’s got a liter barrels for 15 months, 35% new. The drying streak of roasted coffee, and further highlights of Dr tannins leave an impression of astringent rock, and Le Cadeau 2018 Diversité Pinot Noir (Willa­ Pepper, buoyed with ample acidity. —P.G. suggest that a couple more years of bottle age would 92 mette Valley). There is indeed great diver- abv: 13.5% Price: $65 be optimal. —P.G. sity here in the flavor mix of cilantro, raspberry, abv: 13.5% Price: $65 cherry and citrus. Those citrus components up the Shea 2017 Shea Vineyard Block 7 Pinot Noir acidity, with lemon, grapefruit and even a touch of 92 (Willamette Valley). This block selection is White Rose 2018 The Convivial Feast Pinot green pineapple coming through. Though young, the 100% Wädenswil clone, 24% whole cluster fer- 92 Noir (Willamette Valley). This is an aromatic wine shows good focus, with lightly grainy but ripe mented, and aged in 60% new French oak. It’s a wine with blue- and red-berry fruits, highlighted tannins. The prime drinking window should open toasty, chocolatey wine, broadly fruity with plush with milk chocolate. The palate is satiny and full, fully in a couple more years. —P.G. strawberry and raspberry flavors that lead into a and expands to include plums and cherries. New abv: 14.1% Price: $60 palate-drying wash of mocha and stem. —P.G. barrel baking-spice accents contribute a dollop of abv: 14.8% Price: $66 plum pudding, gingerbread and more. It’s a beauti- Le Cadeau 2018 Rocheux Pinot Noir (Willa­ fully integrated wine, even at this young age. —P.G. 92 mette Valley). Blending Pommard and Dijon Soléna 2018 Prince Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 13.3% Price: $60 777 clones, this is aromatic to the brink of pungent, 92 (Dundee Hills). A lively streak of citrus with a striking scent of Italian herbs, plums and ­elevates the blackberry and black-cherry fruit, and White Rose 2018 The Neo-Classical Objective cherries. As with all the Le Cadeau Pinots, there is a the flavors continue focused and piercingly tight 92 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Old vines compelling smoothness and a well-integrated mix of through the palate. There’s a streak of chocolate (age unspecified) make up this cuvée, a weave of herb, fruit, acid and tannin. The barrel aging puts a also, and the overall structure suggests giving this mashed berries and baking spices. Scents of cherry streak of mocha through the finish. —P.G. wine another two or three years of bottle age before tobacco lift the aroma, and the whole cluster fer- abv: 13.5% Price: $60 popping the cork. —P.G. ment plus minimal new French oak keeps all com- abv: 14.1% Price: $52 ponents in measured balance. —P.G. Lenné Estate 2017 South Slope Select Pinot abv: 13.3% Price: $80 92 Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). This cuvée is 80% Soléna 2018 Zena Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir Pommard clone, yielding rich black-cherry fruit 92 (Eola-Amity Hills). This tasty wine is silky 2Plank 2016 Reserve Pinot Noir (Oregon). A underscored with highlights of citrus rind and oil. smooth, with a parade of black-cherry fruit and 91 smooth, toasty, accessible style makes this It’s a bit tight through the finish, but balanced and ­accents of mocha and cocoa powder. The tannins are an immediate go-to bottle. The ripe berry fruit is lightly toasty from aging in 25% new French oak. polished and hint at a pleasantly dusty ­character, wrapped in layers of mocha and toasted hazelnuts. —P.G. with further highlights of cut tobacco. —P.G. Aged 18 months in 30% new French oak, it’s an abv: 13.9% Price: $55 abv: 14.2% Price: $52 Oregon wine that reflects a California sensibility. —P.G. Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Hyland Vineyard Tendril 2016 Extrovert Pinot Noir (Willa­ abv: 14% Price: $35 92 Coury Clone Pinot Noir (McMinnville). A 92 mette Valley). Mixed floral aromas of ­clover strong citrus streak runs through this wine, from and violets open into a mélange of mulberries and Alexana 2017 Revana Vineyard Single Clone- top to bottom. Flavors highlight oranges, limes and blueberries. Sourced principally from Yamhill-­ 91 Pommard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This is tart berries. As is typical in this small AVA, there’s Carlton fruit, this hints gently at earth and stem. a can’t miss bottle that should be enjoyed in its a sliver of minerality anchoring the finish. Unspeci- Aging 18 months in 40% new French oak adds a youth—now through the mid-2020s. Lovely black- fied (new, neutral?) barrel aging shows in a lightly lightly toasty note. —P.G. berry fruit is here in abundance, well defined and toasty frame. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $52 extending into a long clean refreshing finish, with abv: 13.9% Price: $75 ample supporting acidity. —P.G. Trinity Vineyards 2016 Pinot Noir (Willa­ abv: 14.1% Price: $75 Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Mysterious Pinot­ 92 mette Valley). The color of blueberry pie 92 Noir (Dundee Hills). From an unnamed, filling, this lovely, lively effort mingles mint, blue- Alexana 2017 Signature Pinot Noir (Dundee ­apparently high-profile vineyard, this is 100% berries and spice. The palate is soft and very lightly 91 Hills). A reserve-level selection of estate- Pommard from vines over 20 years old. Bright red leathery (in a good way), the finish smooth and well grown fruit, this is firmly anchored in blackberries, fruits favor strawberry and raspberry, with tart balanced, with a lick of citrus. It was aged for 12 with a tannic base. It’s smooth, medium ripe and acidity under some black-cherry muscle. The finish months in 30% new French oak. —P.G. has an appealing earthy streak along with barrel fla- brings in astringent minerality, with little apparent abv: 14.1% Price: $36 vors of coffee and dark chocolate. —P.G. new barrel influence (so far). —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $75 abv: 13.8% Price: $100 Walter Scott 2018 Cuvée Ruth Pinot Noir 92 (Eola-Amity Hills). A quartet of top tier Andrew Rich 2017 Prelude Pinot Noir (Willa­ Rambeaux 2017 Pinot Noir (Willamette vineyards comprise this lovely blend. The ferment 91 mette Valley). This immaculately clean wine 92 Valley).­ Rambeaux is a companion label to included 30% whole clusters in 40% new barrels, brings crystalline details into sharp focus. Pretty Dusky Goose, with wines priced a bit lower. This without sacrificing any detail or overdoing the phe- cherry fruit pops out, with supporting citrus. Those potent Pinot Noir is dark and black fruited, with nolics. Raspberry, marionberry and blueberry fruit acid-driven flavors round off and resolve in a light, streaks of smoke, char and chocolate. Aged nine comes with a vein of dark chocolate. The tannins mineral-soaked finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. months in 31% new French oak, it seems to be on are firm and polished, leaving a bit of black-tea­ abv: 13.8% Price: $26 a relatively fast path to maturity, and should be ­astringency as they trail off.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. enjoyed over the next two or three years. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Andrew Rich 2017 Volcanic Pinot Noir (Willa­ abv: 14.1% Price: $40 91 mette Valley). One of the winery’s soil-based Walter Scott 2018 Sojeau Vineyard Pinot cuvées, this brings a palate-drying minerality into 92 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Renamed (formerly play. The blackberry and black-cherry fruit is a good

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BUYINGGUIDE counterbalance, and the wine has excellent persis- fruit, with an earthy, musky note running through wild raspberries and mixed red fruits. Perhaps a bit tence and proportion throughout. —P.G. the finish. —P.G. more bottle age will help to open it up. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $90 abv: 13.6% Price: $60

Aubichon Cellars 2018 Pinot Noir (Willamette Joleté 2018 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Red Hills Cellars 2016 Pinot Noir (Willamette 91 Valley). Scents of fresh coffee and red licorice 91 This is a step up from its companion release, 91 Valley). Tony Rynders handles the winemak- lead into a refined, even elegant wine with a gen- Le Verre Cuvée, with concentrated flavors of cran- ing at this impressive new winery. Replete with erous plum and cherry core. The barrel aging adds berry and raspberry fruit. There are chewy tannins, aromas of fertile earth, it’s a smooth, well-defined light chocolate notes, the tannins are ripe and pol- which should continue to smooth out with further wine with ripe plum and black-cherry fruit. The ished, and this fills a neat slot in the middle of the bottle age, and a lightly earthy foundation, all in creamy texture and lingering finish put a light soak portfolio. —P.G. good proportion. Best to give this another year or of ­mocha on the fruit, making this instantly deli- abv: 14.1% Price: $35 two in the cellar before popping the cork. —P.G. cious and ready for near-term enjoyment. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $29 abv: 14.1% Price: $65 Cooper Mountain 2017 Made With Bio­dynamic 91 Grapes Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full Ken Wright 2017 Pinot Noir (Willamette Résonance 2017 Découverte Vineyard Pinot review see page 15. Editors’ Choice. 91 Valley).­ For full review see page 16. Editors’ 91 Noir (Dundee Hills). The potential is here for abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Choice. the wine to develop further complexity, though cur- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 rently it’s still a bit jangly. Raspberries and blueber- Croft Vineyards 2015 Pinot Noir (Willamette ries share the flavor podium with peppery herbs and 91 Valley). With some welcome bottle age King Estate 2018 Inscription Pinot Noir (Willa­ truffley fungus. The earthy, herbal flavors carry well ­already, this is a lush and complex weave of savory 91 mette Valley). For full review see page 17. into the finish, and further bottle age may help to herbs, blackberries and cherries, dusted with bak- Editors’­ Choice. soften some rough edges. Drink this wine after 2021. ing spices. It tightens up and hits a piercing citrus abv: 13.2% Price:­ $20 —P.G. note before finishing with a burst of mocha. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $65 abv: 13.4% Price: $42 La Randonnée 2017 Carlton Hill Vineyard 91 Pinot­­ Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). A svelte, almost Soléna 2018 Domaine Danielle Laurent Pinot Division 2018 Eola Springs Vineyard Deux ­sultry wine, with mulberry, strawberry, mocha and 91 Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). This dark and layered 91 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Another deli- toast flavors, nicely comingled. It’s modest in size, wine is front-loaded with black-cherry fruit and ciously complex wine from Division, this showcases smooth and balanced, with a dash of cumin high- highlights of licorice, espresso and sweet tobacco. blueberry fruit with streaks of anise and dark choc- lighting the finish. —P.G. Those flavors seem to fade away in the finish, leav- olate. There are lovely hints of allspice and a lightly abv: 13.6% Price: $42 ing a residual trace of bitter skin tannins. —P.G. salty note of dried seaweed as well. Sourced from abv: 13.5% Price: $55 vines that date back to 1980, this was fermented Lange 2017 Three Hills Cuvée Pinot Noir with 50% whole clusters, and wraps its flavors 91 (Willamette­ Valley). This ever-popular blend The Four Graces 2018 Dundee Hills Reserve ­together perfectly. —P.G. brings together fruit from Lange Estate, Freedom 91 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). For full review see abv: 13.8% Price: $39 Hill and Yamhill vineyards. Spicy, ripe blackberry page 18. and blueberry flavors have a juicy tang, along with abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Fullerton 2018 ArborBrook Vineyard Pinot light touches of fresh herbs. Modest in scale, bal- 91 Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Pretty aromas anced and barely showing the impact of aging in Willamette Valley Vineyards 2019 Whole of spicy cranberries breathe open into comparable 40% new French oak, this wine can rest another 91 ­Cluster Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For flavors, along with cherries and tart highlights of year or two ahead of peak drinking. —P.G. full review see page 18. Editors’ Choice. l­emon and orange peel. The definition andaromatics ­ abv: 13.9% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $24 are excellent, though at this young age the tannins finish earthy and astringent. A bit more bottle age Lenné Estate 2017 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-­ Andrew Rich 2017 Marine Sedimentary ­Pinot is recommended, so drink starting mid-2021. —P.G. 91 Carlton). An open and friendly wine, this 90 Noir (Willamette Valley). The vineyard abv: 13.9% Price: $65 brings cherry and mocha scents and flavors front source remains a mystery, so no telling if it’s the and center. There’s a brambly berry core, and a same as the excellent 2016. This new release is a Fullerton 2018 Claudius Pinot Noir (Chehalem streak of Dr Pepper. About half of the estate-grown taut wine, with rhubarb and strawberries the main 91 Mountains). This is a single clone (943) wine fruit was Pommard clone, and the wine was aged in fruits. Lemony acids give it a lively finish, with little from the ArborBrook vineyard. The aromas are a 20% new French oak. —P.G. or no hint of new oak. —P.G. bit bloody, as if the wine wants to punch you in the abv: 13.8% Price: $40 abv: 14.2% Price: $45 nose, and the color is almost as dark as oxblood. Tightly focused blackberry fruit has a peppery Martin Woods 2018 Hyland Vineyard Pinot Argyle 2018 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). ­accent, and there’s a dusty quality to the tannins, 91 Noir (McMinnville). This aromatic young wine 90 A surplus of good grapes makes this new heightening astringency. —P.G. offers sweet scents of cherries, with tart cherry fruit vintage of Argyle’s Grower Series Pinot especially abv: 13.7% Price: $75 to follow. One-quarter was whole clusters, from desirable. It’s a fragrant mix of berry, plum and 30-year-old vines. It needs aggressive aeration to chocolate, with ample backing tannins. The herbal Fullerton 2017 Tenebris Pinot Noir (Willa­ open up, and as with the other 2018 Pinots from and tobacco notes are light but add welcome details, 91 mette Valley). This interesting blend uses this winery, the tannins are quite astringent with as does the hint of roasted coffee beans. Drink up one barrel each from four of the single-vineyard an herbal edge. —P.G. while it’s young and fresh. —P.G. selections. That said, the whole seems a bit less abv: 13.7% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $27 than the sum of those excellent parts. The specific- ity that shines through each of them individually Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Olenik Vineyard Cardwell Hill 2017 Barrel Select Pinot Noir is here muted, though pleasantly enough. Principal 91 Anklebreaker Block Pinot Noir (Chehalem 90 (Willamette Valley). A small price bump flavors are tightly wound cranberry and raspberry Mountains). In this vintage this cuvée, named for over the regular estate bottling gets you a richer, the rocky soils, seems severely astringent, with sappy wine with concentrated raspberry fruit. It’s assertive minerality. The flavors are tart and thin, tart, tangy, focused and fresh, with sufficient but

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 unintrusive tannins. It’s the fruit that lingers and were planted in 1996. Light, tart raspberry fruit Willamette Valley Vineyards 2017 Vintage 44 shines brightly here. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. is cloaked in fresh herbs and plenty of acid before 90 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This limited abv: 13.6% Price: $26 ­resolving in tea-flavored tannins. —P.G. release, made by Oregon wine pioneer Bill Fuller, is abv: 13.5% Price: $48 still pulling together its fruit mix of raspberry and Compton Family 2018 Pinot Noir (Willa­ ­cherry lollipops. It was aged in one-third new oak, 90 mette Valley). Previously bottled under Montinore 2017 Reserve Pinot Noir (Wil­ and retains a light and fruit-driven flavor profile the Spindrift Cellars label, this has been rebranded 90 lamette Valley). An elegant wine, this is a through a balanced finish. —P.G. as Compton Family, with the same winemaker and nuanced mix of orange peel, strawberry and sweet abv: 14.2% Price: $50 ownership. Fragrant and inviting, this has scents cherry fruit. It’s entirely estate-grown and certi- of pollen and flavors of ripe raspberries and sweet fied organic and biodynamic. It finishes with a light Apolloni 2017 Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette maraschino cherries. Though not a big wine, the touch of barrel toast. —P.G. 89 Valley). From a lighter vintage, this brings concentration is sufficient and the herbs are lightly abv: 13.5% Price: $40 savory flavors to a wine with thin raspberry fruit shown. All in all, quite pleasurable and a fine value. and ample acidity. It’s all in good balance, and drinks Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Montinore 2016 Parson’s Ridge Pinot Noir much like a village Burgundy, only with richer fruit. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 90 (Willamette Valley). Pretty cherry fruit Drink now through the middle of the decade. —P.G. highlights this elegant, well-balanced, estate-grown abv: 13.2% Price: $35 Fullerton 2017 Five Faces Pinot Noir (Willa­ wine. Montinore is certified organic and ­biodynamic, 90 mette Valley). Very pretty aromas of roses and those practices enhance the aromatics with sug- Cardwell Hill 2017 Estate Pinot Noir (Willa­ and cherries lead into a taut, tart wine mixing rhu- gestions of farm and earth. Drinking well now, this 89 mette Valley). A good value, this offers barb and sour cherries. The tannins are well man- may be enjoyed through the mid-2020s. —P.G. spicy cranberry and raspberry flavors, in a wine that aged and bring a thin streak of coffee liqueur through abv: 13.8% Price: $50 is lively and crisply defined. The best feature is its the finish. The vinification included one-third whole balance, with the natural acids keeping it light and clusters and aging in 19% new French oak. —P.G. Oregon Territory 2017 Pinot Noir (Oregon). poised throughout. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $36 90 This lovely wine is 80% Umpqua valley and abv: 13.5% Price: $24 20% Willamette valley fruit, aged a full year in one- Joleté 2018 Le Verre Cuvée Pinot Noir (Wil­ quarter new French oak—pretty high standards for Cooper Mountain 2018 Life Pinot Noir (Willa­ 90 lamette Valley). A better than average a $20 Pinot. It’s soft, smooth, well modulated and 89 mette Valley). Organic grapes are fermented vintage for this entry-level cuvée, this offers spicy showing light rhubarb, strawberry and pie-cherry with native yeast and no additions at all, including red berries with pretty French herbs. There’s a fruit. No need to wait on this wine: it’s drinking sulfur. Citrus and raspberry flavors show first and hint of tomato leaf in the herbal mix, and the pal- perfectly right now. —P.G. foremost, and for those interested in entirely “natu- ate smooths out with light cherry fruit backed with abv: 13.5% Price: $20 ral” wine this is one worth exploring. It was aged for generous acidity. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. eight months in neutral French oak. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $24 Red Hills Cellars 2017 Pinot Noir (Willamette abv: 13.8% Price: $40 90 Valley). Significantly higher acid and a bit La Crema 2018 Pinot Noir (Willamette thinner than the previous vintage, this is nonethe- Cória 2017 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). 90 Valley).­ Part of the Jackson Family port­ less a well-balanced wine that takes full advantage 89 The winery identifies this as its grey label” folio, this widely-available wine marries spicy berry of its components. Tart raspberries and highlights cuvée. As the low alcohol would indicate, it’s done and black-cherry fruit to barrel flavors of cocoa of lemon, lime and grapefruit put a snappy edge on in a light, elegant style that emphasizes tangy rasp- powder. Tannins are buffed to a fine gloss, and come the flavors, and the tannins wrap it up without any berry and citrus flavors. It finishes gracefully, with to a final focus with a hint of green tea. Some 23% jarring bitterness. —P.G. gentle hints of mocha and toffee. —P.G. was aged in new French oak. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $55 abv: 12.9% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Samuel Robert 2019 Vintner’s Reserve Pinot Hamilton Russell Oregon 2018 Bramble Hill Lange 2018 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette 90 Noir (Willamette Valley). Most ‘reserves’ at 89 Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Hamilton Rus- 90 Valley). Here you’ll find a tart mix of wild this price point fail to justify the distinction, but sell Oregon has introduced a pair of Pinots for its blackberries, with a strong herbal element that given that Samuel Robert’s regular Pinot is four dol- first release. This is the better of the two, though ­resolves in tannins with a green-tea astringency. lars cheaper, and given that this has seriously good it is still on the light and fruity side. The fruit has Aged in one-third new French oak, there’s a toasty varietal flavors of blackberries, savory herbs, cola, a ripened past strawberry and into raspberry, with a twist of caramel threading through the finish. —P.G. touch of bitter thistle and even some earthy miner- pretty scent and clean flavor. The finish is simple abv: 13.6% Price: $35 ality, what’s not to like? Complexity and authentic- and quick, with a citric aftertaste. —P.G. ity, along with Willamette Valley credentials, make abv: 13.5% Price: $86 Lenné Estate 2017 LeNez Pinot Noir (Yamhill- this a peerless value. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 90 Carlton). As with all the Lenné Pinots, abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Lange 2018 Classiqué Pinot Noir (Willa­ LeNez is estate-grown, this one coming from 89 mette Valley). A sharp pine-needle note younger vines. This is a sexy, fruit-driven vintage, Suzor 2016 The Tower Pinot Noir (Yamhill- cuts through tart and herbal cranberry-raspberry mixing purple and black fruits with a dash of milk 90 Carlton). Winemaker Greg McClellan’s flavors. This value bottling includes fruit from chocolate from gentle aging in 10% new French i­mpressive resumé includes stints at Ponzi, Ham- separately fermented blocks from a cross-section of oak. With near-term drinkability and medium-term acher and Trisaetum, as well as postgraduate work Lange vineyards, all high quality fruit. It was aged in ageability this is a fine all-purpose Pinot.Editors’ in Beaune. This elegant Pinot is fermented with 15% new French oak. —P.G. Choice. —P.G. native yeast, which adds delicate aromas of cherry abv: 13.7% Price: $25 abv: 13.3% Price: $35 blossom and strawberries. Flavors are clean and pure, balanced with moderate acids, and bottled Martin Woods 2018 Bednarik Vineyard Pinot Martin Woods 2018 Jessie James Vineyard ­after 18 months in barrel. A light hint of mocha 89 Noir (Willamette Valley). Lightly ripened 90 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This is an trails through the finish. —P.G. fruit flavors of rhubarb and dried apples, along with austere, somewhat challenging, palate-drying wine, abv: 13% Price: $36 miscellaneous fruit-leather notes, lead you through fermented with 20% whole clusters and aged in this herbal, astringent wine. From a 1988 Pommard 8% new oak. The Pommard and Wädenswil vines

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BUYINGGUIDE planting, one-third of the ferment included whole vors and sweet toasty scents. It might be confused Siduri 2018 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir clusters, and 8% was aged in new oak. —P.G. for a Sangiovese. Tasty though it is, don’t look for 88 (Willamette Valley). This is bright and abv: 13.5% Price: $45 an expression of standard Pinot Noir. Drink over the spicy, with cranberry fruit at the core. It’s more like next couple of years. —P.G. a Northwest Gamay than most Willamette Valley Paul O’Brien 2018 Pinot Noir (Umpqua abv: 13.3% Price: $28 Pinots, dark and lively with an astringent minerally 89 Valley).­ Sharply focused raspberry fruit finish. —P.G. with a citrus tang carries this wine. The fermen- Fairsing 2018 Dardis Pinot Noir (Yamhill- abv: 14.2% Price: $40 tation in open-top concrete included 24% whole 88 Carlton). The flavors are bright and sharp, a clusters, and the finished wine was aged for 14 mix of tangy red and purple berries. There’s ample Willamette Valley Vineyards 2018 Founders’­ months in 30% new French oak. There’s a light acidity, adding citrus highlights, and a slight hint of 88 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). whiff of silage, not unpleasant, as it fades out with asparagus. The tannins have a trailing astringency, There are strong components here, and it’s a jostle drying tannins. —P.G. but extra aeration will help to smooth out the f­inish. among them with no clear direction. Tart berry abv: 14.1% Price: $28 —P.G. fruits, racy acids and a mix of herbs come up against abv: 14% Price: $62 earthy astringent tannins and then the wine seems Willamette Valley Vineyards 2018 Estate to lose focus and fade. —P.G. 89 ­Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). The fruit has Hamilton Russell Oregon 2018 Zena Crown abv: 14% Price: $45 a dusty quality, with rather thin mixed red-berry 88 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This marks flavors. Sharp acids and a sprinkling of fresh herbs a ­mildly disappointing debut in Oregon for this Fairsing 2018 Fairsing Vineyard Pinot Noir add texture and bite. The wine was aged 10 months esteemed South African producer. Zena Crown is a 87 (Yamhill-Carlton). Light plum and black- in 17% new French oak. —P.G. quality vineyard and 2018 a fine ripe year, but this cherry flavors come through along with highlights abv: 14.1% Price: $32 wine is light almost to a fault. The pretty strawberry of coffee grounds and dark chocolate. The wine was fruit lacks further detail, fades out quickly, and fin- aged just 10 months in 23% new French oak barrels. Aberrant Cellars 2017 Confero Pinot Noir ishes with a tart citric aftertaste. —P.G. A bit more bottle age is recommended. —P.G. 88 (Willamette Valley). Peppery, and slightly abv: 13.5% Price: $86 abv: 13.8% Price: $46 bitter herbal accents frame tart red fruits, pushed by strong acids into a short tight finish. This may well Montinore 2016 Graham’s Block 7 Pinot Fairsing 2018 Sullivan Pinot Noir (Yamhill- benefit from another year or two of bottle age. —P.G. 88 Noir (Willamette Valley). The fruit is a bit 87 Carlton). Tart berries and citrus, much the abv: 13.8% Price: $30 leathery, and there’s a whiff and taste of compost. same as the other 2018s from Fairsing, are the story The fruit flavors suggest plum and cherry. The wine here. This is a blocky, one-dimensional wine that Apolloni 2017 L Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette dries out quickly, with some citric acidity. There’s doesn’t promise much development in bottle. The 88 Valley). This affordable, estate-grown wine little flavor impact from the aging 10 months in one- first bottle tasted was lightly corked; this review is will soon carry the newly confirmed Tualatin Hills third new French oak. —P.G. based on the second bottle. —P.G. AVA. It’s forward and toasty, laced with vanilla and abv: 13.9% Price: $50 abv: 13.4% Price: $62 finished with black tea tannins. The red fruits are savory and sleek, the finish smooth, and the wine Paul O’Brien 2017 Pinot Noir (Umpqua Greetings 2018 Pinot Noir (Willamette V­alley). ready for near-term drinking. —P.G. 88 Valley).­ This is lightly spicy, with peppery 87 Greetings is a new budget label from the NW abv: 13.5% Price: $26 rhubarb and strawberry fruit. Fermentation in Wine Company. Solid winemaking throughout, with open-top concrete included 28% whole clusters, an emphasis on clean fruit, makes these wines more Brigadoon 2017 Taproot Pinot Noir (Willa­ so look for a dominating herbal presence. There’s a than a little interesting for consumers. Here the 88 mette Valley). This vintage of Taproot spent dash of dark chocolate as the wine fades out. —P.G. fruit is focused on black cherry, with ample flavors 14 months in 40% new French oak, and lists at 14% abv: 13.5% Price: $28 of coffee, vanilla and a touch of tobacco. The wine is alcohol. The extra barrel time is evident in sweet blocky, almost one-dimensional, but it has plenty of tobacco notes around a core of cherry cola. The fla- Primarius 2018 Pinot Noir (Oregon). The power. —P.G. vors are framed with orange peel, but the wine does 88 aromas display a sense of purity, with notes abv: 13.9% Price: $20 not have the pure power and length of past vintages. of strawberry, cinnamon stick, peppermint and —P.G. spice. Fresh fruit-forward flavors follow, backed by Montinore 2018 Red Cap Pinot Noir (Willa­ abv: 14% Price: $40 bunched up tannins. A lingering finish caps it off. It 87 mette Valley). The light and pretty red needs time to open up, but it delivers. —S.S. fruits—principally cranberry and raspberry—are Browne Family Vineyards 2017 Pinot Noir abv: 13.6% Price: $19 faintly earthy. They run hard up against drying tan- 88 (Willamette Valley). Bright aromas of pep- nins, but the finish resolves pleasantly with high- permint, herb and dried orange peel lead to light, Samuel Robert 2019 Conscious Pinot Noir lights of seashells and minerals. —P.G. juicy flavors on the palate. The mouthwatering acid- 88 (Willamette Valley). Don’t let the lowball abv: 13.9% Price: $25 ity brings a pleasing focus to the fruit. —S.S. price fool you; this is a fine expression of authentic abv: NA Price: $20 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. Sweet black-cherry Second Growth 2018 Pinot Noir (Willamette fruit is laced with cola scents and pretty highlights 87 Valley). This opens with a bit of a rough and Château Bianca 2017 Pinot Noir (Willamette of mocha—all in a faultless wine of modest propor- rugged mouthfeel. The strawberry and cherry fruit 88 Valley). This wine looks, smells and tastes tions. The tannins leave just a hint of bitterness as is supported with blocky tannins, and it finishes five years older than its vintage. That said, it’s got the wine trails away. Best Buy. —P.G. with just a slight burn. Nonetheless, this is a sound plenty of immediate flavor appeal, with soft pas- abv: 13% Price: $12 and solid example of Willamette Valley Pinot, and try fruits, smooth tannins and a finish that seems with a grilled salmon steak would work quite well. ­almost buttery. Drink up! —P.G. Second Growth 2018 Pinot Noir (Chehalem —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $18 88 Mountains). Well balanced and showing abv: 13.9% Price: $25 a mix of red fruits, this runs from hints of rhu- Croft Vineyards 2016 River Runner Red Pinot barb right through raspberries and lightly peppery Willamette Valley Vineyards 2017 Ingram 88 Noir (Willamette Valley). This is apparently cherry flavors. It’s an easy-drinking wine with a 87 Estate Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). There’s all Pinot Noir, though in past vintages it may have straightforward, no frills approach. —P.G. a bitter astringency here, buttressed by raw wood been a blend. It’s quite dark, with plummy fruit fla- abv: 14.1% Price: $30 flavors, that overtakes the tight tart raspberry fruit.

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 It may all jell with more bottle age. For now, aggres- boiled egg, and the overall impression is that this is sive decanting and aeration is recommended. —P.G. a bit high-toned, with a short finish. Drink up. —P.G. SYRAH abv: 13.8% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $26 Hors Categorie 2017 Syrah (Walla Walla Wy’East Vineyards 2018 Blue Chip Pinot Noir 96 Valley).­ For full review see page 3. Cellar 87 (Columbia Gorge). The light cherry fruit has GAMAY NOIR Selection. a leathery character, both in the nose and also when abv: 14.1% Price: $250 tasted. The net effect is to attenuate the fruit flavors Cooper Mountain 2018 Gamay Noir (Willa­ and turn the finish astringent and drying. The wine 90 mette Valley). Part of Cooper Mountain’s Horsepower 2017 High Contrast Vineyard spent 10 months in 15% new oak, adding a dash of ­­5 ­Element Series, this aromatic Gamay opens with 96 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). For full review sweet spice. Only one bottle was submitted. —P.G. plush scents of marionberries, plums, chocolate and see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.6% Price: $26 sandalwood. The flavors deliver on the promise, abv: 13.8% Price: $121 tightening up a bit and framed with orange peel and Brigadoon 2018 The Other Side Pinot Noir some lightly funky undergrowth. —P.G. Cayuse 2017 Bionic Frog Syrah (Walla Walla 86 (Willamette Valley). The fruit is thin, abv: 13.6% Price: $30 95 Valley). For full review see page 4. Editors’ ­almost dilute, despite 20% whole cluster fermenta- Choice. tion and almost a year in 20% new French oak. The Division 2018 Cru Gamay Noir (Eola-Amity abv: 14.1% Price: $115 light red-berry flavors fade quickly, leaving a bitter 90 Hills). Sourced from the Methven ­Family astringent aftertaste. —P.G. vineyards, this shows a bit of palate-expanding Cayuse 2017 Wallah Wallah Special #11 Syrah abv: 13.5% Price: $34 funk, both in the nose and through the flavors. But 95 (Walla Walla Valley). There no mistaking that lightly leathery note, at least for now, is nicely that this comes from the stones of Walla Walla Elouan 2018 Pinot Noir (Oregon). The label set against sour plum and sour cherry fruit. Further Valley, with its outrageous aromas of funk, earth, 86 speaks of sourcing from “prime vineyards complexity comes in details of pepper and mush- black pepper, peat, black olive tapenade, charcute- on Oregon’s coast” though no such vineyards exist, rooms, adding to an overall impression of well-­ rie plate, sea breeze and potpourri—an aromatic the coast being subject to ocean-driven storms and controlled gaminess. Drink now through 2024. —P.G. tour de force. A silky, plush, savory, earthy palate weather. It’s almost jet-black in color, light in fla- abv: 12.6% Price: $30 follows, full of saline and charcuterie notes. The vor, with suggestions of black cherries, new mowed supremely long, intensely rich finish grabs you and grass, and plenty of tobacco and vanilla. —P.G. Lük 2017 Havlin Vineyard Upper Slope shakes you, kicking it up a notch. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.7% Price: $22 88 Gamay Noir (Van Duzer Corridor). Not a big —S.S. wine, but full flavored and expressive, these grapes abv: 13.8% Price: $175/1.5 L Elouan 2017 Klamath’s Kettle Reserve Pinot were harvested late, while still at low brix, and the 86 Noir (Oregon). The components here lack flavors and scents convey bright raspberry fruit Horsepower 2017 Sur Echalas Vineyard Syrah focus, yielding a formless wine with vague hints of along with peppery herbs. It’s a spicy quaffer, with 95 (Walla Walla Valley). This wine brings the black cherry, mocha and vanilla. Vanilla seems to firm tannins and a streak of dark chocolate. —P.G. good old fashioned funk that made this estate and be a dominating feature of Elouan’s Oregon Pinot abv: 13.2% Price: $34 region famous. The aromas of crushed rock, fire pit, Noirs, without balancing ripeness, acid or texture. earth, whole black olive and potpourri show sub- —P.G. tlety and complexity. The palate offers richness, lay- abv: 14.3% Price: $45 GRENACHE ering, Rocks District texture and depth, all undulat- ing across the palate. It’s intense. A hyperextended Elouan 2017 Missoulan Wash Reserve Pinot No Girls 2017 La Paciencia Vineyard Grenache rich black-olive and savory-filled finish caps it off. 86 Noir (Oregon). This is a simple, forward 95 (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas announce A long list of superlatives describe this wine. Best wine, with berry fruit that seems like a thin veneer themselves with notes of peat, funk, potpourri, after 2025.Cellar Selection. —S.S. over a missing midpalate. The finishing tannins crushed rock, purple flowers, sea salt, umami, abv: 13.6% Price: $121 bring in flavors of earth and cut grass, but there’s strawberry and olive, showing layers of ­complexity. just not much there. —P.G. The flavors are simultaneously rich and elegant, Horsepower 2017 The Tribe Vineyard Syrah abv: 14% Price: $45 crashing across the palate in waves. Editors’ Choice. 94 (Walla Walla Valley). Initially brooding —S.S. crushed violet, ember, moist earth, herb, green- Fairsing 2018 Kenney Pinot Noir (Yamhill- abv: 13.6% Price: $76 olive, wet basalt and smoked meat aromas are fol- 86 Carlton). A disappointingly thin wine lowed by a velvet hammer of olive and other savory ­after the excellent 2017, the red-berry fruits seem Horsepower 2017 Sur Echalas Vineyard flavors, coating the palate in waves from end to end. border­line unripe. There’s a touch of lemon rind, 93 ­Grenache (Walla Walla Valley). ­Compelling A long lengthy, flower- and olive-filled finish caps it sharp acids and herbal astringent tannins that soot, green-olive, grilled asparagus, potpourri, lico- off. Its power and appeal are in its elegance, subtle- shorten the finish. —P.G. rice and raspberry aromas are followed by a palate ties and sophistication. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $62 that is more restrained in style than the aromas abv: 13.6% Price: $121 would suggest. It has a pillowy soft feel to the savory Fullerton 2018 Three Otters Pinot Noir (Wil­ flavors. Outrageous potpourri and sea-breeze notes No Girls 2017 La Paciencia Vineyard Syrah 86 lamette Valley). A peppery wine with a linger on the finish. —S.S. 94 (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas arrest you sharp herbal edge, this achieved minimal ripeness. abv: 13.5% Price: $121 in your tracks, with notes of potpourri, earthy funk, The light fruit flavors suggest rhubarb and unripe sea breeze and charcuterie plate. The black-olive raspberries. The tannins are balanced and firm. Love That Red NV Fillies & Mares Grenache and floral flavors are pillowy soft in feel, undulat- Only neutral oak barrels were used. —P.G. 90 (The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater). ing across the palate, showing depth and intensity, abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Darker in color than most examples of this variety leading to a hyperextended savory note and flower- from the appellation, the aromas intrigue, with filled finish. It’s a showstopper.Editors’ Choice. Hamacher 2017 H Pinot Noir (Willamette notes of plum, stick and brown stem. There’s a silky —S.S. 85 Valley). The aromas carry a scent of hard- softness to the lightly styled palate that is the hall- abv: 14.2% Price: $76 mark of this region. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $53

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BUYINGGUIDE

Cayuse 2017 Armada Vineyard Syrah (Walla of what Cabernet can achieve in this sub-appellation Oregon Territory 2017 Tempranillo (Oregon). 93 Walla Valley). Outrageous, perfumed aromas of the valley. Best after 2024.Cellar Selection. —S.S. 89 Though labeled simply Oregon, this is all of Stargazer lily, ember, chopped parsley, cherry pit, abv: 14.2% Price: $100 Umpqua Valley fruit, aged in a mix of barrels and moist earth after a rain, orange peel and savory herb larger casks for 18 months. It’s soft and approach- lead to elegant, snappy, fresh fruit flavors that show Tendril 2016 Octave Vineyard Cabernet Sau­ able, with dark fruits mixing mulberry and cassis. A intensity. The balance is beautiful. A 30-second 91 vignon (Walla Walla Valley). This vineyard in vein of green coffee beans runs through the drying flower-filled finish caps it off. Classic Cayuse. —S.S. the SeVein project is known for its firm structure, and tannins. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $103 we see that here. Blended with 21% Cabernet Franc abv: 13.5% Price: $20 and seeing just one-third new French oak, the aro- Cayuse 2017 En Cerise Vineyard Syrah (Walla mas are brooding, with notes of cherry, dried herb, Abacela 2017 Fiesta Tempranillo (Umpqua 93 Walla Valley). The aromas are quite reserved black licorice and barrel accents. Ripe fruit flavors 88 Valley). Fiesta is Abacela’s entry level bot- for this producer, with notes of flower, crushed follow, while bringing a firm sense of tightly wound tling. It’s fresh and fruity, with a chewy grainy tex- rock and fireplace. A flavorful palate follows, full tannic structure. It will be best with some time in ture. Flavors are front loaded, bringing blackberry of black-olive and earth notes. A lingering finish the cellar. Drink after 2025.Cellar Selection. —S.S. fruit along with streaks of espresso and dark choco- comes next. It’s a very understated offering. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $75 late. The tannins push through a quick, drying finish. abv: 14.3% Price: $90 —P.G. Lük 2017 Serra Vineyard Own Rooted abv: 14.2% Price: $25 Cayuse 2017 En Chamberlain Vineyard Syrah 89 C­abernet Sauvignon (Applegate Valley). 93 (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas jump out Overall, this wine is fairly light in this vintage. The Pebblestone 2015 Ellis Vineyards Block 7 of the glass, with notes of earthy funk, heaping brambly berry fruits are threaded with green tobacco­ 88 Tempranillo (Rogue Valley). A sturdy wine, amounts of wet stone, butcher shop, smoke, black and toasty coffee grounds. It was aged 22 months in this focuses on red-cherry flavors and slightly grainy pepper and salami. Earth-shaking fruit and savory a 50-50 mix of French and American oak barrels, chewy tannins. There’s a faint hint of volatility that flavors follow. A light medicinal streak runs through and the final blend includes 8% Malbec. —P.G. quickly blows off, and the wine finishes clean. Drink it. It’s a primer on what this estate is all about. abv: 14% Price: $50 now and through the middle of the decade. —P.G. Editors’­ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $30 abv: 13.8% Price: $90 TEMPRANILLO Cayuse 2017 Cailloux Vineyard Syrah (Walla RED BLENDS 92 Walla Valley). Coming from the estate’s first Bryn Mawr Vineyards 2016 Tempranillo vineyard planted in 1997, the aromas are reserved, 92 (Eola­ -Amity Hills). Bursting with dense fla- Cayuse 2017 God Only Knows Red Wine with notes of soot, raspberry, dried herb, smoked vors of black cherries and dark chocolate, this big 94 ­Armada Vineyard (Walla Walla Valley). meat, asparagus and plum. The palate brings a bold wine, despite its high alcohol, keeps itself in ­Floral aromas rise up, with notes of potpourri, Star- sense of elegance, purity and freshness that is cap- proper proportion. Notes of warm spices add inter- gazer lily and violet followed by notes of fire pit, sea tivating. A lingering finish caps it off. It’s a pretty, est, and the grainy textured tannins contribute fur- breeze and charcuterie. It’s palate shaking in inten- ­understated offering from this site. —S.S. ther length. It was barrel aged for two years in 40% sity while also bringing a sense of delicacy. Floral abv: 13.8% Price: $90 new French oak. —P.G. notes linger on the hyperextended finish. What a abv: 15.1% Price: $50 wine. You could just smell it and be completely satis- W.T. Vintners 2017 Stoney Vine Vineyard fied.Editors’ ­ Choice. —S.S. 90 ­Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Coming from Cayuse 2017 Impulsivo En Chamberlain Vine­ abv: 13.8% Price: $103 Block 2 of this vineyard, aromas of orange oil, 92 yard Tempranillo (Walla Walla Valley). The smoked meat, black olive, medicine and fire pit are aromas are locked up out of the gate, opening to Cayuse 2017 Camaspelo (Walla Walla followed by soft sumptuous savory flavors. Herb ­reveal notes of fresh tobacco, moist earth, orange 93 Valley).­ Appealing aromas of green pepper, and orange-peel notes linger on the finish. It’s a rind and cherry. The palate has a pleasing sumptu- cherry, fresh herb, saline and moist earth are fol- pretty interpretation of this site, bringing a sense of ousness to the mouthwatering earth, savory, olive lowed by concentrated, focused, pillowy-soft cherry acidity seldom seen. —S.S. and citrus flavors. The texture is lovely.Editors’ flavors. It brings a compelling sense of purity and abv: 13% Price: $49 Choice. —S.S. freshness, with mouthwatering acidity seldom seen abv: 13.6% Price: $100 from this area. It’s a complete standout. Editors’ Pebblestone 2014 Ellis Vineyards Block 6 Choice. —S.S. 86 Syrah (Rogue Valley). Syrah and other No Girls 2017 Tempranillo (Walla Walla abv: 13.8% Price: $90 Rhône grapes generally do well in the Rogue Valley. 92 Valley).­ The aromas explode from the glass, This seems not quite ripe enough, though varietally with notes of sweet pipe tobacco, fire pit, black- La Rata 2017 Red (Walla Walla Valley). true. It’s thin on the palate and slightly weedy, with olive tapenade, cherry, orange peel and earthy funk. 93 ­Grenache makes up 61% of this wine, with light-purple fruits and a hint of coffee. Drink up. The palate is more reserved than the aromas would the rest Cabernet Sauvignon (29%) and Syrah —P.G. suggest and brings a real sense of mouthwatering (10%). Aromas of earthy funk, crushed stone, rasp- abv: 14.4% Price: $26 freshness and restraint to the savory flavors. A long berry, Kalamata olive, dried peat, tobacco, ­orange and finish caps it off. —S.S. herb rise up from the glass. The fruit and savory­ fla- abv: 13.8% Price: $76 vors are fresh, pure and juicy. A raspberry- and olive- CABERNET SAUVIGNON filled finish caps it off. It’s a very pretty,sophisticated ­ Bryn Mawr Vineyards 2019 Tinto Joven offering from this appellation.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Cayuse 2017 Widowmaker En Chamberlain 90 ­Tempranillo (Eola-Amity Hills). This young abv: 13.8% Price: $76 94 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla red, done in a Beaujolais Nouveau style, is principally Valley). The aromas offer beguiling, complex notes Tempranillo, with 9% Tinta Cao. Scents of freshly Cayuse 2017 Flying Pig (Walla Walla Valley). of funk, cedar, plum, moist earth and black currant. baked bread rise from the glass, followed by fresh 92 Cabernet Franc makes up half of this wine, ­Intensely pure, ripe, dense, palate-coating flavors and lightly fruity flavors of tangy cranberries. This with the rest Merlot (39%) and Cabernet Sauvi- follow, showing impressive staying power. It’s an lovely wine is a perfect fit for a Thanksgiving feast, or gnon. Pungent aromas of sliced green pepper, jala- outrageously pleasurable wine—a textbook example anytime a light and lively red wine is wanted. —P.G. peño pepper, flower, ember and cherry are followed abv: 11.2% Price: $18 by velvety-soft cherry and green-pepper flavors. It

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 shows these varieties’ greener, more savory sides, 100% varietal, this is a rather light version of this Forgeron 2017 Chardonnay (Columbia but for those who enjoy that profile, look no further. grape, with leafy herbal tones over a veneer of ripe 90 Valley).­ Aromas of mango, honey and —S.S. strawberry fruit. The balance is fine, with the acids beeswax are followed by rounded but sleek lemony abv: 14.1% Price: $100 proportionate, and a hint of green coffee. It was aged ­flavors. It has the pleasing acidity of the vintage. in French oak for 20 months. —P.G. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Cayuse 2017 The Lovers Cabernet Sauvi­ abv: 14.3% Price: $26 abv: 13.9% Price: $25 90 gnon-Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for 87% of this wine, with Bryn Mawr Vineyards 2018 Dolcetto (Eola- Efeste 2018 Lola Evergreen Vineyard Char­ the rest Syrah. Aromas of stone, tobacco, peat, 87 Amity Hills). Not a common or easy variety 89 donnay (Ancient Lakes). Brooding aromas of herb, plum and cherry lead to a somewhat lighter to ripen in the Willamette valley, this is a tart, dry, crushed rock, talc and citrus are followed by reserved­ styled but almost creamy-feeling palate, full of austere wine that is a bit hard to love. The fruit but layered fruit flavors. It’s anunderstated ­ offer- mouth­watering cherry, plum, earth and savory is subsumed by the tannins, with notes of smoke, ing of the variety that needs some time to blossom. ­flavors. —S.S. black olive and graphite rather than any sweet ripe —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $103 berry flavors. That said, the right match (steak) abv: 13.5% Price: $35 would work with it. —P.G. Sidecar Wine Trials 2017 Off The Wagon abv: 14.7% Price: $35 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2018 Mimi Chardon­ 90 (Rogue Valley). For full review see page 21. 88 nay (Horse Heaven Hills). The aromas are abv: 14.4% Price: $29 Catman 2018 Reserve Barbera (Columbia expressive, with notes of baking spice, crayon and 87 Valley).­ Aromas of plum, asphalt, mineral peach. Medium-bodied supple flavors follow. Ripe Pebblestone 2014 Ellis Vineyards Mélange and dried herb lead to medium-bodied, fruitful peach notes linger on the finish. —S.S. 89 (Rogue Valley). This is a solidly built, Bor- cranberry and raspberry flavors, with a tangy warm abv: 14.5% Price: $20 deaux blend, roughly half Cabernet, 29% Merlot, finish. The acidity keeps the interest up, though the 19% Cab Franc and a splash of Petit Verdot. It’s warmth is a bit distracting. —S.S. Fielding Hills 2018 Chardonnay (Columbia smooth and smoky, with chewy assertive tannins. abv: 14.5% Price: $42 88 Valley). This is the winery’s first foray into The black fruits seem to be resting on a bed of under­ Chardonnay. The aromas bring notes of straw, peach brush, but as a hearty pizza wine, this definitely Catman 2017 Zinfandel (Columbia ­Valley). and anise. Full-bodied, sweet rounded tropical-fruit works. —P.G. 87 Caramel, char, toasty barrel-spice and cherry­ flavors follow. The fruit gets a bit ahead of itself on abv: 14% Price: $27 aromas lead to ripe red-fruit and coffee flavors that the palate, but there’s promise here. —S.S. are light through the middle. The variety seems hard abv: 14.5% Price: $30 2Hawk NV Plume Rouge v.2 (Rogue Valley). to find. —S.S. 88 Somewhat of a kitchen-sink blend, this abv: 14.8% Price: $32 Rolling Bay Winery 2018 Reserve Chardon­ nonetheless manages to feel like a well-structured 88 nay (Snipes Mountain). Toast, peach and red, with light red fruits and plenty of barrel toast pineapple aromas lead to full-bodied, almost sweet- (21% new). Principally Tempranillo, it also includes SWEET WINE seaming pineapple flavors. There is abundant acid- Cab Franc, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon ity that comes off as a bit sharp edged at present. in small proportions. Tannins are firm and grippy, Martin Woods 2018 Hyland Vineyard Riesling A light medicinal note lingers on the finish. There with a touch of herbs. —P.G. 94 (McMinnville). In this vintage the grapes are a lot of interesting things here, particularly the abv: 13.1% Price: $24 from 45-year-old Coury clone vines were com- acidity, but they don’t all come together at present. pletely botrytis infected, yielding this exceptional —S.S. Père Ami 2017 Red (Umpqua Valley). This dessert wine. Honey, caramel, golden apples and abv: 13.5% Price: $41 88 blend of Grenache, Tempranillo and Syrah highlights of cinnamon powder are supported by is toasty and broadly fruity, with some heat in the a perfect acid-sugar balance. This should age for Waterbrook 2018 Reserve Chardonnay finish. The blend doesn’t really jell, and the three ­another decade at least, and possibly twice that. 88 (Columbia­ Valley). Aromas of vanilla, toast components don’t seem to resonate with each other, Cellar Selection. —P.G. peach are out front. Baking-spice notes follow. leading into a diffuse borderline-generic red. —P.G. abv: 12.3% Price: $45/375 ml Full-bodied, almost nectarous fruit flavors follow. abv: 13.9% Price: $35 Toast notes linger on the finish, which brings some warmth. The oak drives much of the style, but for WASHINGTON those looking for a full-bodied, oaky style of Char- OTHER RED WINES donnay, look no further. —S.S. CHARDONNAY abv: 14.9% Price: $18 Division 2018 Mae’s Vineyard Granit Cab­ 92 ernet Franc (Applegate Valley). Dark, ripe Forgeron 2018 Anvil French Creek Vineyard High Heaven 2019 Cloud Mountain Chardon­ and packed with flavor, the Granit captures the 91 Old Wente Clone Chardonnay (Yakima Valley). 87 nay (Columbia Valley). The aromas seem a bit power of the grape, which thrives at this southern The aromas are generous but subtle, with notes of muddled, with notes of apple and toast. Full-feeling Oregon site. Black-cherry fruit is laced with flavors pear, yellow apple, toast and clarified butter. Full- fruit flavors follow, pulling up on the finish. —S.S. of licorice and espresso, and the tannins have the feeling richly textured flavors follow. A long finish abv: NA Price: $12 green-coffee signature of Cabernet Franc. Big and caps it off. —S.S. balanced, this will cellar nicely and may be enjoyed abv: 13.8% Price: $48 Washington Hills 2018 Chardonnay (Wash­ over the next decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 84 ington). The aromas offer notes of tin, medi- abv: 13.8% Price: $30 Forgeron 2019 Otherworldly Unoaked Char­ cine, diesel and peach—not identifiably Chardonnay. 90 donnay (Yakima Valley). Aromas of freshly A creamy-feeling and creamy-tasting palate follows. Lük 2017 Crater View Vineyard Petite Sirah cut apple and pear are followed by full-feeling fla- Butterscotch notes linger on the finish. —S.S. 91 (Rogue Valley). For full review see page 17. vors. Tart acidity backs it up. It has a pleasing sense abv: 13.93% Price: $11 abv: 14.3% Price: $40 of varietal purity. —S.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $25 Pebblestone 2014 Ellis Vineyards Block 2 88 Cabernet Franc (Rogue Valley). Although it’s

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eponymous Sauvignon Blanc makes a name for him. Forgeron 2019 Viognier (Walla Walla Valley).­ RIESLING The aromas are arresting, with notes of crushed 90 The aromas are bright, with notes of pear, rock, white grapefruit, citrus, dried herb and saline. flower and peach. Medium-plus bodied, quite pure- Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen 2018 Eroica­ The palate brings tart, puckering, electric acidity seeming melon and stone-fruit flavors follow. It 91 Riesling (Columbia Valley). The aromas are that commands attention. But there is much more brings a lot of appeal and spot-on balance. —S.S. vibrant, with notes of lime leaf, whole lime and here—texture, layering, purity, depth and length. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 wet slate. Medium-bodied, off-dry lime and white- An acid lover’s delight, it’s flat-out delicious and peach flavors follow, with mouthwatering acidity boundlessly ambitious, succeeding on every level. Time & Direction 2019 Fretboard Corfu Cross­ upping the interest. Nestea Iced Tea notes linger Enjoy it with oysters on the half shell for a sublime 90 ing Vineyard Viognier (Columbia Valley). on the finish. Delicious stuff. Pair it with shrimp experience. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Pear and peach aromas leap up out the glass, along ceviche with diced mango and lime juice. Editors’ abv: 12.5% Price: $25 with notes of flower, herb and melon. There’s a Choice. —S.S. sleekness and brightness to the white-peach flavors abv: 12% Price: $20 Ago 2019 Estate Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc that ups the interest for this often over-weighted 92 (Columbia Gorge). Aromas of melon, citrus and oily variety. —S.S. Pacific Rim 2018 Vin de Glaciere Riesling rind, crushed rock, sweet herb, grapefruit and whiffs abv: 14.2% Price: $25 90 (Columbia Valley). Expressive aromas of of pineapple lead to tart and lively squeezed lemon orange marmalade, citrus, brown sugar and honey flavors, with mouthwatering acidity. A long finish TruthTeller 2019 Frolic Viognier (Yakima are followed by sweet, rich but well balanced fruit caps it off. A complete delight, it practically emandsd­ 88 Valley).­ The aromas pop, with notes of flavors. The variety’s pleasing sense of acidity keeps oysters alongside it. Give it a bit of additional time in cantaloupe, canned peach, fresh flower and freshly the sugar well in check. Marmalade notes linger on bottle or decant. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. peeled orange rind. The palate is sleek in style, with the finish. —S.S. abv: 12.7% Price: $28 plenty of floral flavors and citrus flavors along with abv: 9.5% Price: $17/375 ml tart acidity. It’s an odd mixture of overripe and Avennia 2018 Oliane Sauvignon Blanc ­underripe fruit. —S.S. Chateau Ste. Michelle 2018 Late Harvest 92 (Yakima­ Valley). Boushey fruit makes up abv: 12.9% Price: $22 88 Riesling (Columbia Valley). The aromas are two-thirds of this wine, with the rest from equally surprisingly subdued for the variety, with notes of esteemed Red Willow Vineyard. Barrel fermented Waterbrook 2018 Icon Viognier (Columbia lime, jasmine and peach. Sweet stone-fruit flavors with native yeast, the aromas are brooding, with 88 Valley). Coming from Canyon Vineyard follow. It shows a lovely sense of balance. —S.S. notes of lemon pith, mineral, graham cracker, pink Ranch, aromas of flower, Creamsicle and barrel abv: 11% Price: $9 grapefruit and flower. The palate brings texture, spice are followed by full-bodied ripe apricot fla- nervy acidity, richness and deftness to the citrus and vors, with plentiful barrel accents. A warm toasty High Heaven 2019 Estate Grown & Bottled tropical-fruit flavors. Kiwi notes linger on the finish. finish follows. It shows the variety’s riper side, with 88 Starshower Riesling (Columbia Valley). It’s a unique wine for the state. Best enjoyed with the oak playing a prominent role. —S.S. Honeysuckle, lime and peach aromas are followed additional time in bottle. Best from 2023–2026. abv: 14.45% Price: $26 by off-dry peach and Nestea Iced Tea flavors. The Cellar Selection. —S.S. concentration seems a little light at times on an abv: 13.6% Price: $28 Stottle 2018 Elerding Vineyard Viognier otherwise enjoyable wine. —S.S. 84 (Washington). Produced from some of the abv: NA Price: $12 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2018 Horse Heaven oldest Viognier vines in Washington, the aromas of 91 Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Horse Heaven paint and orange rind seem to show some oxygen Washington Hills 2018 Dry Riesling (Wash­ Hills). Aged in stainless steel (70%) and barrel, this exposure. The palate falls flat, revealing some alco- 86 ington). The aromas offer notes of pear, 100% varietal wine showcases vibrant aromas of hol. —S.S. lime, diesel and lime leaf, showing a bit of evolution. lemon verbena, white grapefruit and spice. These abv: 13.7% Price: $27 Just off-dry-drinking Nestea Lemon Iced tea flavors lead to full creamy-feeling citrus flavors. The acid- follow. The acid balances them out well. —S.S. ity is impressive. Pair it with scallop ceviche with abv: 12.15% Price: $11 mango and lime. Best Buy. —S.S. CHENIN BLANC abv: 13% Price: $15 Washington Hills 2019 Riesling (Washington). Efeste 2019 Adrienne Chenin Blanc (Yakima 84 Aromas of diesel, medicine and dried rose Efeste 2019 Feral Evergreen Vineyard Sau­ 90 Valley). This is a variety change for this petal lead to flavors that show more of the same. 88 vignon Blanc (Ancient Lakes). This wine wine. Coming from vines planted in 1970, the aro- Lively acidity runs throughout. It’s all an uncom- starts out quite funky, so much so that it is off-put- mas are light, with notes of herb, honey and min- fortable mix. —S.S. ting. Beneath that are pleasing aromas of wet slate, eral. The palate shows an appealing sense of preci- abv: 12.49% Price: $11 pink grapefruit and herb. Sleek, tart, puckering pink sion, detail and balance. The bright acidity of the grapefruit flavors follow. The palate is delightful. The variety shines throughout. —S.S. Washington Hills 2018 Late Harvest Riesling aromas straighten but take significant time to do so. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 84 (Washington). Apple-cider aromas are out —S.S. front, followed by notes of peach, dried rose, and abv: 13% Price: $22 Convergence Zone 2019 Sunbreak Upland medicine. Sweet lemon iced tea flavors follow. The 89 Vineyard Chenin Blanc (Snipes Mountain). palate brings enjoyment but can’t offset the dis- The aromas are bright and fresh, with notes of cit- jointed aromas. —S.S. VIOGNIER rus zest, lemon balm and tangerine. The palate is abv: 9.17% Price: $11 sleek and juicy, with passion fruit flavors and bright Gramercy 2019 Viognier (Columbia Valley). acidity. There’s a lot to like. —S.S. 92 Gramercy has charted a new course for this abv: 13.5% Price: $16 SAUVIGNON BLANC often overripe variety. Citrus, white-peach and min- eral aromas are follow by exquisitely balanced pear Fielding Hills 2019 Estate Chenin Blanc Devison 2019 Evergreen Vineyard Sauvignon and peach flavors. It has a pleasing, mouthwatering 88 (Wahluke Slope). The aromas offer notes of 93 Blanc (Ancient Lakes). Winemaker Peter feel that is rare in Viognier in this state or elsewhere cut, slightly oxidized seeming red apple, along with ­Devison has made a name for others for two decades and that ups the interest. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. plentiful notes of pear. A licorice note lurks in the with best-in-the-state white wines. His inaugural abv: 13% Price: $28

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 background. The palate is textured in feel. It brings lectually interesting than hedonistically successful. up two-thirds of this wine, with the rest Roussanne. the acidity this variety is known for. —S.S. —S.S. The aromas are light, with notes of melon, peach abv: 13.2% Price: $28 abv: 13% Price: $34 and pear. Full-feeling flavors follow. A slight bitter note lingers on the finish. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $28 GRENACHE BLANC WHITE BLENDS Stottle 2018 Cuvée de la Reine (Washington). Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2018 Estate Avennia 2018 La Perle (Yakima Valley). 87 This is a 60-40 Viognier and Roussanne 93 White In the Rocks Vineyard Grenache Blanc 94 Roussanne makes up 65% of this wine, with blend. The aromas are quite toasty and creamy out (Walla Walla Valley). This estate’s red wines grab the rest Marsanne. Fruit comes from Sagemoor, stal- of the gate, causing distraction. Behind that are the headlines, but the winemakers are quietly pro- wart Boushey and, notably newcomer WeatherEye. notes of peach and pear. Full-bodied stone-fruit fla- ducing some of the most exciting whites in North It is a revelation. Appealing aromas of almond, corn vors follow, with a warm finish. It’s well made, but America. Aromas of wet stone, almond, lees and silk, custard, stone fruit and spice lead to a full-bod- the oak gets in the way. —S.S. spice are followed by seamless, textured flavors that ied richly textured palate, brightened by lively acid- abv: 13.9% Price: $28 carry on a seemingly endless finish. The balance ity and heightened by a hyper­extended finish. It’s a is impeccable, with a backbone of lemony acidity benchmark wine for the state—nothing short of an Stottle 2018 Zara Lina (Washington). ­sustaining it. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. accomplishment. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 87 V­iognier makes up three-quarters of this abv: 12.2% Price: $60 abv: 14.4% Price: $40 wine, with the rest Roussanne. Aromas of toast are at the fore, followed by notes of peach and pear. Pearl and Stone 2019 Old Rickety Grenache Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 Queen’s Full-bodied, viscous-feeling flavors follow. It shows 91 Blanc (Yakima Valley). This shows amazing 93 Road In the Rocks Vineyard Estate White a bit of warmth on the finish. —S.S. concentration and depth for a wine with such a (Walla Walla Valley). This is lightly cloudy in abv: 14.1% Price: $18 low level of alcohol. It’s all Boushey vineyard fruit, ­appearance. The aromas jump out of the glass, superfresh, with juicy apple, lemon, grapefruit and with notes of tangerine, flower, talc, ripe peach and pineapple flavors. It’s a big enough wine to come off wet rock. Full-feeling, richly textured and intense OTHER WHITE WINES the bench and pinch hit for your favorite unoaked stone-fruit flavors follow. It wins on every level, but Chardonnay. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. it’s the exceedingly long finish that separates this Ago 2019 Cor Estate Vineyard Tocai Friulano abv: 12% Price: $25 wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 92 (Columbia Gorge). This is a new variety abv: 14.5% Price: $65 within the state, and what a debut. All fermented Eternal 2019 Eternal Perspective Grenache in neutral oak, fresh aromas of pear, tangerine, 90 Blanc (Columbia Valley). Intriguing aromas Gård 2019 Freyja Lawrence Lawrence Vine­ mineral, citrus and flower yield exquisitely pure of lime zest, slate, green papaya, charcoal and whole 91 yards (Columbia Valley). Roussanne makes up flavors, with high-wire lemony acidity connecting it lemon are followed by medium-bodied flavors backed 52% of this wine, with the rest Viognier. The aromas all ­together. A gorgeous wine, its sense of vibrancy by lemony acidity. The balance is spot on. —S.S. are bright, with notes of melon, ripe peach and cit- separates it. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.1% Price: $29 rus, showing a sense of purity. Full-bodied, rounded abv: 12.3% Price: $32 feeling stone-fruit flavors follow. A tart finish caps it off. It’s delightful.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Cairdeas 2019 Picardan (Lake Chelan). This MARSANNE abv: 14.1% Price: $16 92 is the first bottling in the state of this vari- ety. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 In the Rocks Cairdeas 2019 Nellie Mae Lawrence Vineyard of lime zest, whole tangerine, lemon and schist. 93 Vineyard Marsanne (Walla Walla ­Valley). 90 (Columbia Valley). Viognier makes up two- Puckering, sleek, high-acid lemon and lime flavors Coming from the winery’s estate vineyard in the thirds of this wine, with the rest Roussanne. Bright follow. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Rocks District this wine is made only in magnum aromas of lemon zest, mineral and ripe peach are fol- abv: 12.3% Price: $30 size. Its alluring aromas of wet stone, almond, spice, lowed by textured, almost viscous feeling full-bodied peach and lemon peel are followed by nectarous, fruit flavors. Melon notes linger on the finish. —S.S. Gramercy 2019 Picpoul (Walla Walla Valley). palate-coating but still reserved stone-fruit flavors. abv: 14% Price: $24 92 Aromas of citrus zest, whole lemon and The balance and tension are compelling. —S.S. wet stone are followed by medium-bodied tart and abv: 14.6% Price: $250/1.5 L Miscreant Project NV White Lie Miscreant puckering white-grapefruit flavors backed by elec- 89 Affirmation #08 (Columbia Valley). Rous- tric acidity. This wine has always been a standout, Cairdeas 2019 Marsanne (Yakima Valley). sanne makes up 48% of this wine, with the rest but this vintage brings more of everything: more 91 Blended with 16% Roussanne from Law- Marsanne (40%) and Viognier. Aromas of whole ­aromatic and flavor complexity and even more acid- rence Vineyard with the rest of the fruit coming yellow apple, melon and peeled orange are followed ity. It requires food alongside it to be fully appreci- from famed Boushey, this wine was fermented in by a palate that is broad in feel, with a light guava ated. Pair it with grilled halibut with a lemon oreg- concrete and then aged in stainless steel and new note. A pleasing sense of acidity lifts it on the finish. ano sauce. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. French oak. The aromas are brooding out of the Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 gate, with notes of lemon balm, almond and crushed abv: 13.6% Price: $14 rock. The palate is medium bodied and seamless in Grosgrain 2019 Philips Vineyard Albariño feel. It brings a whole lot of acidity for this variety. Ducleaux 2018 Jordyn White (Ancient 91 (Walla Walla Valley). Newcomer Grosgrain Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 88 Lakes). Part of the proceeds of this wine is quickly making a name for itself with wines like abv: 13% Price: $30 benefit cancer research at the Fred Hutchinson Can- this. Primarily fermented and aged in concrete egg, cer Research Center. The peach, melon and gummy with the rest in neutral barrel and stainless steel, Eternal 2018 Eternal Insight Skin Contact aromas are followed by sweet center-focused stone- its bright compellingly fresh aromas of tangerine, 86 White Marsanne (Columbia Valley). This fruit flavors. There’s much to like. —S.S. citrus peel and melon are followed by full-feeling, white is golden colored showing but some browning. abv: 13.7% Price: $22 lively, lemony flavors, with racy acidity. It’s the fin- Aromas of ginger, flower, marmalade and citrus are est example I’ve had of this variety from the state to followed by light, bone-dry flavors. It’s more intel- Forgeron 2019 Blacksmith Blanc Crawford date. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 88 Vineyard (Yakima Valley). Viognier makes abv: 13.4% Price: $24

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Eternal 2019 Eternal Lust Albariño (Columbia and pink grapefruit. Bright acidity enlivens the light Time & Direction 2019 UpUpDownDown­ 90 Valley). Fruit for this wine comes from Otis palate. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 91 LeftRightLeftRightBASelectStart Thunder­ Vineyard. Fermented and aged in neutral oak, the abv: 11.4% Price: $29 stone Vineyard Rosé (Columbia Valley). This is aromas pop, with notes of fresh citrus zest, melon pale-copper in color. Pleasing (though light) aromas rind, flower, herb and whiffs of diesel. The pal- Grosgrain 2019 Les Collines Petillant ­Naturel of wet stone and grapefruit lead to fuller-feeling ate is medium bodied in style, with plentiful kiwi, 90 Sparkling Sémillon (Walla Walla Valley). The grapefruit and white-peach flavors. A citrusy finish ­watermelon and citrus flavors. A lovely sense of acid- aromas intrigue, with notes of sweet herb, lemon caps it off. It delivers a lot of flavor intensity and ity stitches it all together. It’s thoroughly delightful. zest and brioche. The palate is light and lively, bring- length. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. —S.S. ing all of the enjoyment that this style has to offer. abv: 13.4% Price: $22 abv: 12% Price: $29 —S.S. abv: 11.1% Price: $28 SMAK 2019 Fall/Winter Rosé (Columbia Fielding Hills 2018 Roussanne (Columbia 90 Valley). In keeping with its season, this is 90 Valley). Aromas of almond, nectarine, wheat Ducleaux 2019 Call Sign Petillant Naturel a heartier offering of rosé. A pretty light-bronze, the and lees are followed by full-bodied and rich layers 86 (Columbia Valley). This wine is 100% aromas bring appealing notes of cantaloupe, melon of stone-fruit flavors. A pleasing sense of acidity ties ­Grenache. Cloudy in appearance, red- and yellow- rind and citrus. Broad-feeling flavors follow. The it all together. This is an unabashedly full-bodied apple aromas are out front, along with notes of balance is lovely. —S.S. white wine, made in a red wine lover’s style. —S.S. apple skin, pear and cider. The palate brings more abv: 12.7% Price: $18 abv: 15% Price: $34 straightforward enjoyment. Drink now. —S.S. abv: 11.8% Price: $24 Charles & Charles 2019 Rosé (Columbia Convergence Zone 2017 Drizzle Ciel du Cheval 89 Valley).­ Syrah (71%) takes the lead on this 85 Vineyard Pinot Gris (Red Mountain). Despite wine, with the rest Grenache, Mourvèdre and bits its age, this wine is a bit reductive out of the gate. ROSÉS of Cabernet Sauvignon and Counoise. Substantially Aromas of cut apple and melon lead to medium- lighter in color than recent vintages, the aromas sweet full-bodied oxidized red-apple flavors. It Avennia 2019 L’Egérie Rosé (Columbia Valley).­ are reductive out of the gate. They open to reveal doesn’t have the acid to balance the sugar. —S.S. 92 Grenache (70%) makes up the heart of pleasing notes of watermelon, strawberry and herb. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 this wine, with the rest Mourvèdre. Coming from The palate is light, brisk and focused, with plenty of ­Upland and Heart of the Hill vineyards respectively, acidity to keep the interest high. It only gets better the aromas offer notes of strawberry, mineral, sweet with time open. —S.S. SPARKLING WINES herb and a whiff of orange zest. The palate is fuller abv: 11.4% Price: $14 in style, bringing a sense of weight, texture and seri- Cairdeas 2018 Brut Nature Sparkling Wine ousness, while possessing more than enough acidity Ducleaux 2018 One Night Stand Rosé 91 Clairette Blanche (Lake Chelan). This is the to keep it all together. It shows impressive length. 89 (Columbia­ Valley). This wine is a pretty first varietally designated offering in the state. Com- Give it a short decant. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. pale-peach color. Strawberry, watermelon and ing from the winery’s estate vineyard, the aromas abv: 13.8% Price: $28 sweet herb aromas are followed by well-balanced offer notes of baked bread, citrus peel and lemon. flavors. It’s a charmer. —S.S. Bright, tart citrus flavors follow, bringing a sense of Devison 2019 Boushey Vineyard Rosé abv: 12.9% Price: $20 freshness and a strong sense of acidity and precision. 92 (Yakima­ Valley). Mourvèdre makes up Editors’ Choice. —S.S. three-quarters of this wine, with the rest Grenache. Eternal 2019 Eternal Beauty Grenache Rosé abv: 12.3% Price: $50 Showing just a tinge of copper color, expressive 89 (Columbia Valley). Coming from Lawrence aromas of rhubarb, grapefruit and white peach are Vineyard, aromas of strawberry and herb are fol- Ago 2019 Pinot Noir (Columbia Gorge). followed by a tart, flavorful palate with snappy acid- lowed by light, bright, puckering flavors. It brings a 91 ­Composed of Pinot Noir, this lightly bronze- ity. It shows a lovely sense of layering and intensity, pleasing sense of acidity. —S.S. colored wine (with a touch of pink) brings appeal- delivering more seriousness than is typically found abv: 12.3% Price: $21 ing aromas of brioche and strawberry. The flavors in domestic pinks without sacrificing one iota of ­deliver a jolt of electric acidity that commands pleasure. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Pearl and Stone 2019 Unemployment Beach ­attention. Lemon-rind flavors linger on the finish. abv: 13% Price: $24 89 Rosé (Yakima Valley). All Cabernet Franc It’s an acid hound’s delight. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. from the Two Blondes vineyard, this is a pale- abv: 12.4% Price: $32 Gramercy 2019 Olsen Vineyard Rosé (Colum­ copper hue, with a delicious core of fruit centered 91 bia Valley). This one-of-a-kind wine in the around lemons and peaches. Most interesting is a Grosgrain 2019 Kiona Vineyard Old Vine state is led by Cinsault (44%), followed by Grenache whiff of warm spices—the same flavors that carry 91 ­Pétillant-Naturel Lemberger (Red Mountain). (28%) and Syrah. A pretty pale-salmon color, the on through the finish. —P.G. This wine hails from the first Lemberger vines in aromas offer notes of strawberry, herb, melon, min- abv: 12.7% Price: $19 the country, planted in 1976. Appealing aromas of eral and tangerine peel. The palate is medium bodied lemon pith, citrus and baked bread are followed by in style, with mouthwatering acidity accenting the Roaming Dog 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon bright, sharply etched citrus flavors. Electric acidity fruit flavors. Tasty stuff.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 89 Rosé (Columbia Valley). A pretty pale-pink enlivens it. It’s a one wine charm offensiveEditors’ abv: 13% Price: $22 color, the aromas bring bright notes of watermelon, Choice. —S.S. cherry and melon. Full-feeling, just off-dry-drink- abv: 12.2% Price: $28 Grosgrain 2019 Blush Angiolina Farm Grenache­ ing kiwi flavors follow. For those looking for a deli- 91 Rosé (Yakima Valley). This wine is all cious, fruity, off-dry rosé with enough acid to pull it Ago 2019 Sparkling (Columbia Gorge). ­Grenache, fermented and aged in concrete. So pale off, look no further. —S.S. 90 ­Coming in at an alcohol level unheard of in in color it could easily pass for a white wine, the abv: 12% Price: $13 the state, this wine is 85% Gewürztraminer, with aromas are reserved at present, while the palate is the rest Pinot Gris. From a mixture of Oak Ridge expressive, fuller in feel, with strawberry and pink- SMAK 2019 Spring Sangiovese Rosé (Walla and Dragonfly vineyards, the aromas bring plenty grapefruit flavors framed by zippy, lemony acidity. 89 Walla Valley). Coming from a producer of appeal, with notes of lemon rind, ginger, flower It’s still settling in but has excellent stuffing. Give it dedicated to the production of rosé, this wine is a short decant. —S.S. pale-bronze in color. The aromas are not ready to abv: 13.2% Price: $20 reveal themselves out of the gate, with light notes

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 of cherry, strawberry and herb. Tart mouthwatering TruthTeller 2019 Quip Rosé (Yakima Valley). Efeste 2017 Taylor Mag Estate Grown Cabernet flavors follow. One would like to see more generosity 87 Pale-salmon, with a slight orange tinge, the 91 Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Pleasing aromas aromatically, but the palate delivers. —S.S. aromas bring notes of tin, strawberry and herb. It’s of dark raspberry, cherry and earth are followed by abv: 11.9% Price: $18 thick in feel but still has enough acidity to hold it ripe palate-coating fruit flavors. It brings a lovely together. It’s a bit reductive at present. —S.S. sense of freshness considering the fruit intensity. Three Forks 2019 Gamache Vineyard Rosé abv: 13.3% Price: $17 Firm tannins back it up. It’s a guaranteed crowd- 89 (Columbia Valley). Pale-salmon in color, pleasing Cabernet. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. with a slight orange tinge, bright aromas of yellow Efeste 2019 Oldfield Estate Rosé (Yakima abv: 14.5% Price: $35 strawberry and melon lead to juicy orange-peel and 86 Valley). Mourvèdre (55%) is in the lead strawberry flavors. There’s a lot to like. —S.S. on this wine, with the rest Grenache (40%) and a Forgeron 2016 Anvil Dionysus Vineyard Block 11 abv: 12% Price: $20 splash of Syrah. Starting out slightly reductive, this 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Com- wine opens to show notes of medicine, strawberry ing from a block in this esteemed vineyard planted Be Human 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon and spice. Light but lively flavors follow. —S.S. in 1988, aromas of baking spice, chocolate, anise, 88 Rosé (Horse Heaven Hills). A pretty pale- abv: NA Price: $24 dark cherry and fig are followed by supple, rich, peach color, the aromas are forward, with notes of creamy-feeling dark-cherry and spice flavors. Quite ­watermelon, ripe strawberry and herb. Plentiful Spring Run 2019 Rosé (Columbia Valley). ripe in style, it has an immediate yum factor. —S.S. kiwi flavors follow. It’s a charmer. —S.S. 86 Syrah makes up 94% of this wine, with the abv: 15.3% Price: $65 abv: 12% Price: $16 rest bits of Grenache and Mourvèdre. It is cherry- red in color, which is dark by modern standards. Forgeron 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Dixie & Bass 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé Aromas of crayon and watermelon candy are fol- 91 Walla Valley). Birch Creek Vineyard fruit 88 (Horse Heaven Hills). The aromas bring lowed off-dry flavors that need more acidity to makes up the majority of this wine, with the rest ­appeal, with notes of strawberry, herb and melon stand them up. —S.S. from Minnick Hills and a dollop from Seven Hills. rind. The flavors are dry and broad in feel. It brings abv: 13% Price: $18 The aromas bring notes of baking spice, mesquite, a lot of charm. —S.S. cherry, cassis and vanilla. The palate paints around abv: 12% Price: $17 Underground Wine Project 2018 And why the edges initially, filling in over time. Firm tannins 86 am I Mr. Pink? Rosé (Columbia Valley). back it up. Like many wines from this vintage, it Ducleaux 2018 Pink Slip Rosé (Walla Walla ­Reductive out of the gate, this wine shows aromas needs a bit of time to show its best. Editors’ Choice. 88 Valley). This rosé of Grenache, Syrah and of rock salt and nori in front of cherry, strawberry —S.S. Mourvèdre is a very pretty pale-peach color. Aro- and watermelon.­ Apple and slightly leesy-seeming abv: 14.7% Price: $35 mas of cut apple, biscuit and gummy are followed flavors follow. It seems past peak. —S.S. by lightly styled, center-focused flavors. It pulls up abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Saviah 2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon on the finish. —S.S. 91 (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas are for- abv: 12.9% Price: $19 ward, with notes of black currant, freshly cut green CABERNET SAUVIGNON pepper, scorched earth, barrel spice and coffee. The Gård 2019 Grand Klasse Lawrence Estate full-feeling coffee and cherry flavors are sumptu- 88 Wines Rosé (Columbia Valley). The aromas Quilceda Creek 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon ous but fresh, bringing a pleasing sense of intensity. are reserved in style, with notes of melon and herb, 96 (Columbia Valley). This is 100% Cabernet Coffee notes linger on the finish. —S.S. along with wheat and a light medicinal note. The Sauvignon, with fruit coming from Horse Heaven abv: 14.8% Price: $45 flavors are full but also sleek in style, with plenty Hills sites Champoux, Lake Wallula, Palengat, of acidity backing it up. There are interesting things and Wallula. It’s aromatically brooding out of the Walla Walla Vintners 2017 Cut Bank Estate happening, but they don’t all come together. —S.S. gate, with notes of cherry meats, barrel spice and 91 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla abv: 12.5% Price: $24 incense, not yet ready to reveal its charms. Dense, Valley). Fruit for this wine comes from the winery’s focused, layered, almost creamy-feeling fruit flavors vineyard, located at nearly 1,500 feet in elevation. SMAK 2019 Summer Pinot Gris Rosé (Colum­ follow. It is coiled up tightly right now but has all of Raspberry, dark coffee, cherry and bittersweet- 88 bia Valley). Pale-bronze in color, the aromas the stuffing to go the distance and then some. Best chocolate aromas lead to generous, full-feeling bring notes of grape skin and lees. A full-feeling pal- from 2030–2037. Cellar Selection. —S.S. coffee and chocolate flavors. Firm, lightly grainy ate follows. It loses a bit of its balance on the finish. abv: 15.2% Price: $200 tannins back it up. It’s a classically Vintners’ style —S.S. wine, best enjoyed with some additional time in the abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Leonetti Cellar 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon bottle. Drink after 2024.Cellar Selection. —S.S. 94 (Walla Walla Valley). Up-front aromas abv: 14.9% Price: $50 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2019 Limited Release of cocoa, dark cherry, licorice, barrel spice and 87 Le Rosé (Yakima Valley). Pale-salmon in scorched earth are followed by dense, full, textured Convergence Zone 2016 Squall Line Phinny color, forward aromas of wild strawberry, whole fruit flavors backed by exquisitely balanced tannin 90 Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse tangerine and kiwi lead to just off-dry, heavier and acid structure. Everything is in perfect propor- Heaven Hills). This vineyard has quickly established styled flavors that gets bogged down. —S.S. tion, nary a hair out of place. Best from 2028–2035. itself as one of Washington’s top Cabernet sites. abv: 13% Price: $25 Cellar Selection. —S.S. The aromas are brooding out of the gate, open- abv: 14.5% Price: $100 ing to reveal­ notes of pencil lead, green pepper, J. Bookwalter 2019 Scarlet Hexflame Conner ­maraschino cherry, scorched earth and whiffs of 87 Lee Vineyard Rosé (Columbia Valley). This Efeste 2017 Big Papa Cabernet Sauvignon mountain blueberry. There’s a lovely sense of fresh- wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and 92 (Columbia Valley). This is 100% varietal ness to the palate that ups the interest. —S.S. Merlot, with bits of Syrah and Cabernet Franc fin- coming from vineyards with at least 30 years of age. abv: 14.4% Price: $35 ishing it off. Pale-peach in color, it’s reductive out The aromas bring appeal, with notes of earth, dried of the gate, with notes of struck match and savory herb and brooding dark cherry. Dense, focused fruit Forgeron 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla tones in front of cherry and tangerine. The palate is flavors follow, showing great texture and length. 90 Walla Valley). The aromas bring plenty medium bodied, with cherry flavors and a pleasing Brawny tannins back it up. This is a serious offering of appeal and complexity, with notes of tar, black mouthwatering sense to it. —S.S. of this variety. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. ­cherry, anise and dried herb. Full-feeling cherry fla- abv: 13.1% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $62 vors follow, showing exquisite balance and length.

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Black-currant notes linger on the finish. Tartacids ­ together. It’s a straightforward, Cabernet quaffer at raspberry compote, plum, dark chocolate and cedar finish it off. It’s a complete charmer.Editors’ Choice. the right price. —S.S. are followed by textured, layered, rich flavors that —S.S. abv: 13.86% Price: $11 a firm spine of tannins stands up. Lovely acidity abv: 14.2% Price: $35 brightens it. —S.S. Waterbrook 2017 AVA Series Cabernet Sauvi­ abv: 14.4% Price: $80 Love That Red 2015 Race Day Cabernet Sau­ 88 gnon (Red Mountain). Aromas of date, anise 90 vignon (Red Mountain). The aromas bring and spice are followed by quite ripe fruit flavors. A High Heaven 2018 Estate Grown and Bottled notes of cherry, coffee, barrel spice and herb. Front- tight coil of tannin ties it together. The fruit seems 88 Sea of Tranquility Merlot (Columbia Valley). loaded black-cherry flavors follow, fleshing out over to have overripened. —S.S. Aromas of smoke, blueberry, raspberry and cherry time. Date notes linger on the finish. It brings a lot abv: 14.55% Price: $25 are followed by blue and red fruit, vanilla and of appeal, with the heat of the vintage and appella- Creamsicle flavors that show a touch of bitterness tion kept in check. That said, its best days are in the Browne Family Vineyards 2017 Cabernet Sau­ on the finish. Firm, slightly dry tannins back it up. near term. —S.S. 87 vignon (Columbia Valley). The fruit seems to You wouldn’t peg it for Merlot, but it’s tasty all the abv: 14.7% Price: $60 have overripened here, revealing notes of dried fig, same. —S.S. date and anise. The palate pulls it off better, with abv: 13.7% Price: $15 Saviah 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla creamy vanilla and other barrel flavors but doesn’t 90 Walla Valley). Fruit from Anna Marie, have the fruit to match the oak. —S.S. Sightglass 2017 Stillwater Creek Vineyard ­Dugger Creek, McClellan and Seven Hills vineyards abv: 14.9% Price: $35 88 Merlot (Columbia Valley). This is 100% comprise this wine. Brooding aromas of dark ­roasted varietal. The aromas display a lot of ripe fruit, with coffee, barrel spice, blueberry and cherry lead to Kirkland Signature 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon notes of dark plum and spice. Plump fruit flavors fol- medium-bodied cherry, coffee and char flavors. It 87 (Washington). For full review see page 24. low, with lightly tacky tannins backing it up. —S.S. brings the sense of freshness of the vintage. —S.S. Best Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.7% Price: $9 Walla Walla Vintners 2017 Merlot (Walla Greenwing 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum­ Mount Si 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (­Columbia 88 Walla Valley). Raspberry-compote, tire- 89 bia Valley). This young-release wine brings 87 Valley). Aromas of vanilla, nougat and cherry rubber, coffee and spice aromas lead to rich, plump aromas of blueberry pie that open into cherry, cof- are followed by fruit and barrel flavors that show fruit flavors and firm tannins that bring a bit of fee, and barrel-spice notes over time. Cherry flavors some elegance considering the warmth of the vin- astringency. It has a pleasing sense of freshness. intertwine with creamy barrel notes. There’s more tage. It’s well made, with good things going, but There are good things going on, but they don’t all than enough tannin to keep it all together. The oak ­ultimately the wood gets in the way. —S.S. seem to come together at present. Additional time plays a primary part in the show. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 in bottle should serve it well. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Palencia 2016 Edgar Martinez Special Selec­ TruthTeller 2016 The Confidante Cabernet 87 tion Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Forgeron 2018 Minnick Hills Vineyard Merlot 89 Sauvignon (Red Mountain). The aromas Barrel notes are out front, with aromas of vanilla, 87 (Walla Walla Valley). Aromas of green herb provide plenty of intrigue, with notes of macerated coconut, menthol and freshly hewn green wood, so and freshly peeled orange are followed by flavors raspberry, tobacco leaf, anise and cherry. Plenti- much so that it’s hard to get at the fruit. Soft fruit that bring a strange mixture of ripeness and under- ful black-cherry flavors follow, with an abundance flavors follow. The oak completely dominates. —S.S. ripeness. The tannins give a firm squeeze. It’s an of firm, slightly grippy tannins providing support. abv: 14.9% Price: $120/1.5 L odd mix, particularly for Merlot. —S.S. It shows its appellation and variety well. Give it at abv: 14.8% Price: $35 another few years in bottle or decant to let the tan- Sagelands 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum­ nins settle in. —S.S. 87 bia Valley). The aromas are reserved, with Sagelands 2018 Merlot (Columbia Valley). abv: 14.7% Price: $55 notes of plum, berry and apple. Jammy fruit flavors 87 Fruit-forward aromas of plum and black follow. It’s a ripe, slightly sweet style but the price is currant lead to green-pepper and plum flavors. The Fly Rod 2016 Stimulator Cabernet Sauvignon right. It will find plenty of admirers.Best Buy. —S.S. oak is dialed back, putting a pleasant focus on the 88 (Columbia Valley). Aromas of tire rubber, abv: 13.65% Price: $12 freshness of the fruit. It doesn’t directly identify as black cherry and anise lead to soft, silky, almost Merlot, but it brings enjoyment. Best Buy. —S.S. creamy-feeling flavors. Coffee notes linger on the Stottle 2015 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Cabernet­ abv: 14.06% Price: $12 finish. It has an appealing sense of freshness. The 87 Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). Cedar-box, aromas and palate don’t quite sync. —S.S. wood-spice, cherry and anise aromas are followed Mount Si 2015 Merlot (Wahluke Slope). abv: 13.7% Price: $27 by fruit flavors that paint around the edges. A firm 85 ­Aromas of baking spice, tire rubber and sense of tannin and acid structure back it up. It all blackberry are followed by coffee and red fruit and High Heaven 2018 Estate Grown & Bottled­ needs time to settle in. —S.S. rubber flavors with a tacky feel. The variety seems 88 Majestic Pines Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.6% Price: $38 to get lost. —S.S. (Columbia­ Valley). Plum, raspberry, and bitter- abv: 15.4% Price: $30 sweet-chocolate aromas are followed by silky, full Sagelands 2018 Dark Cabernet Sauvignon fruit and barrel flavors. Vanilla aromas and flavors 86 (Columbia Valley). Aromas of freshly cut are laced throughout. Firm tannins back it up. It’s red apple and black currant are followed by off-dry- CABERNET FRANC not identifiably Cabernet, but it’s enjoyable all the drinking black-currant flavors. It has a place. —S.S. same. —S.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $12 Avennia 2017 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet abv: 13.8% Price: $15 92 Franc (Horse Heaven Hills). This wine comes from a vineyard best known for its Cabernet Sauvi- Washington Hills 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon MERLOT gnon, making this a hidden secret. It brings swoon- 88 (Washington). Reserved aromas of plum, worthy aromas of scorched earth, whole green pep- berry and gummy lead to plum and black-currant Leonetti Cellar 2018 Merlot (Walla Walla per, coffee, cherry and spice, showing nuance. The flavors. A pleasing amount of tannin holds it all 93 Valley). This wine is 100% varietal—what palate shows a classical, Bordelaise styling to its a glorious example of Merlot. Aromas of dark- cherry and coffee flavors that sail off into the dis-

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 tance, further than the eye can see. The texture only and blue-fruit-filled finish. It’s a rich, fruit forward notes linger on the finish. It’s a very pretty offering ups the appeal. Best after 2024.Cellar Selection. expression of this often savory sub-appellation of of this variety. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. —S.S. the valley with impressive staying power and a very abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.8% Price: $50 long life in front of it. Best from 2026–2032. Cellar Selection. —S.S. Gård 2017 Thunderstone Lawrence Estate Willow 2016 Boushey Vineyards Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $75 91 Wines Lawrence Vineyards Syrah (Columbia 89 Franc (Yakima Valley). The aromas are Valley). The aromas leap up, with notes of fresh ­appealing, with notes of flower, fresh and dried Devison 2018 Beneath the Stones Syrah parsley, green olive, smoke and herb, with the stem herb, green pepper and dark raspberry. Plump, ripe 93 (Walla Walla Valley). This is the winery’s influence out front. Black- and green-oliveflavors ­ fruit flavors follow, showing the warmth of the vin- inaugural offering from the Rocks District. The aro- follow, showing a sleek styling, with plentiful tage but also the purity of this producer. —S.S. mas announce themselves with notes of wet rock, ­medicinal accents. —S.S. abv: 14.2%­­ Price: $NA fresh herb, green olive, orange rind, asparagus, abv: 15.1% Price: $45 espresso bean and raspberry. The fruit and savory Efeste 2018 Estate Angela’s Vineyard Caber­ flavors show intensity, freshness and superb hang Grosgrain 2018 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah 88 net Franc (Red Mountain). The aromas are time. Showing a lot of detail and polish but also 91 (Walla Walla Valley). For full review see page light, with notes of berry and cherry, seeming closed the feral aspect of this appellation, it has a long life 16. Editors’ Choice. up at present. The flavors are ripe and full bodied, ahead of it. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $40 backed by grainy, slightly astringent tannins. It fin- abv: 14.5% Price: $49 ishes warm. It’s all an odd mix. —S.S. Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 The Con­ abv: 15% Price: $60 Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 In the Rocks 91 tender Estate In the Rocks Vineyard Syrah 93 Estate In the Rocks Vineyard Syrah (Walla (Walla Walla Valley). Brooding aromas of sea breeze, Gård 2017 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence Walla Valley). A bit reductive out of the gate, this umami, olive and struck match are followed by 88 Vineyards Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). wine opens to reveal aromas of black pepper, moist lighter styled olive flavors. Floral notes persist on The aromas offer notes of garden herb, smoke and earth after a rain, nori, olive and herb. Theblueberry, ­ the finish. —S.S. plenty of vanilla, with the fruit coming off coming black-olive and other savory flavors are rounded in abv: 13.9% Price: $90 off as quite green and the oak out front. Lightly feel while bringing a lovely sense of freshness. An smoky flavors follow, backed by tart acidity. Orange- orange-peel note lingers on the finish. Yum. —S.S. Walla Walla Vintners 2017 Syrah (Walla Walla peel and oak accents flesh it out. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $95 91 Valley). The aromas are expressive, with notes abv: 14.1% Price: $40 of blueberry pie, spice and herb. Plump ­expressive Saviah 2017 The Funk Estate Syrah (Walla blue-fruit flavors follow. It’s a rich, fruit-forward 93 Walla Valley). The aromas jump out of the expression of the variety. —S.S. SYRAH glass, with notes of umami, sea breeze, olive brine, abv: 15.3% Price: $35 shiitake mushroom, orange oil and soot. The palate Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 Foothills delivers all of that and a whole lot more, bringing Love That Red 2016 Dead Heat Syrah 94 Reserve Estate Foothills in the Sun Vineyard a sense of richness, layering, and intensity. A long 90 (Columbia­ Valley). The aromas are all high Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Right now, Reynvaan has finish caps it off. The balance is exquisite.Editors’ register, with notes of char and green olive, along this area almost all to themselves, but with wines Choice. —S.S. with whiffs of vanilla, black cherry and spice. like this, one can’t imagine that will last long. The abv: 14.6% Price: $65 There’s a plush, soft feel to the blue-fruit and barrel aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of rock flavors. It’s a charmer. —S.S. salt, nori, black pepper and whiffs of smoke. The Forgeron 2018 Boushey Vineyard Syrah abv: 14.8% Price: $36 savory, smoky and salty flavors coat the palate, 92 (Yakima­ Valley). One sniff of this wine and bringing a lot of richness but also a lot of deftness. the vineyard is immediately apparent. What more Efeste 2018 Jolie Bouche Estate Syrah It has a feather-light feel but also plenty of intensity could one ask? Cofermented with 6% Viognier, aro- 89 (Yakima­ Valley). Fruit for this wine all that adds to the appeal. A hyperextended finish caps mas of ember, bacon fat, blueberry pie and mineral comes from Oldfield Vineyard, adjacent to famed it off. It’s exquisite.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. are followed by ripe, full-feeling fruit and savory Boushey. Aromas of stem, blackberry and dark abv: 13.9% Price: $85 flavors. It’s a shining example of this esteemed site, raspberry are followed by juicy fruit flavors, with with enough tannic heft to do well with some time a lightly chalky tannins backing it up. It hasn’t all Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 In the Hills in the cellar. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. come together at present. —S.S. 94 Estate Foothills in the Sun Vineyard Syrah abv: 14.9% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $45 (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas are arresting, with notes of freshly ground black pepper, moist earth, Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 Stones­ Waterbrook 2018 Syrah (Columbia Valley). black and green olive and fire pit. The palate deliv- 92 sence Estate In the Rocks Vineyard Syrah 89 Aromas of dark cherry and barrel spice lead ers on all of that promise and more, while showing (Walla Walla Valley). This wine is quite reductive to a full, fleshy palate. The oak is more primary than a sense of deftness and balance that carries through out of the gate. Underneath that are aromas of sea desired for the variety, but it still delivers a lot of the long, savory, black-pepper-filled finish. It’s salt, olive brine, espresso and charcuterie plate. The enjoyment. A light medicinal note emerges with spectacular, all about expression and refinement palate brings a sense of deftness and detail, with some time open. —S.S. with a finish that goes on for days.Editors’ Choice. abundant savory and coffee notes on the long, salty abv: 14.44% Price: $15 —S.S. finish. Yum. —S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $80 abv: 14.3% Price: $110 Forgeron 2017 Anvil Boushey Vineyard Bird­ 88 house Block Syrah (Yakima Valley). The Delmas 2018 SJR Vineyard Syrah (Walla Cairdeas 2018 Concrete Syrah (Columbia ­aromas bring a bit of funk, along with notes of spice 93 Walla Valley). Coming from the edge of the 91 Valley).­ This is all Joseph Phelps clone Syrah,­ that are seemingly a bit muddled. Tart, wound-up Rocks District and blended with 8% Viognier, pure aged in concrete egg. The aromas are reserved out of fruit flavors follow. It finishes tart. The vineyard huckleberry, flower, olive, orange peel and cof- the gate, with notes of blue fruit, herb and mineral. seems to get lost. —S.S. fee aromas are the opening hand. It follows with Beautifully pure, sleek flavors follow.­Orange-peel abv: 14.6% Price: $65 abundant, palate-coating blue-fruit flavors with an almost creamy feel. The flavors persist on the coffee

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Love That Red 2016 Stakes Race Syrah has the acid and tannin structure for the long haul. are reserved in style and show a pleasing sense of 88 (­Walla Walla Valley). Aromas of stick, brown Best from 2030–2037. Cellar Selection. —S.S. purity. Black-pepper notes linger on the finish. It’s stem, coffee bean, green olive and funk lead to front-­ abv: 14.7% Price: $150 all about sophistication, bringing it in abundance. loaded fruit and savory flavors. There’s promise here, —S.S. but it doesn’t deliver on all of it. —S.S. Leonetti Cellar 2017 Mill Creek Upland (Walla abv: 14.3% Price: $45 abv: 13.2% Price: $53 95 Walla Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 67% of this wine, with the rest an impressive Cairdeas 2017 Consonance (Yakima Val­ TruthTeller 2017 The Cynic Syrah (Walla 33% Petit Verdot. The aromas bring immedi- 92 ley). Petit Sirah makes up 38% of this 88 Walla Valley). Locked-up on first pour, ate appeal,­ with notes of dark cherry, plum, spice, wine, followed by Syrah (37%), Mourvèdre (13%) the aromas open to show notes of blackberry jam, ­flower and licorice. The palate is rich and shows and Alicante Bouchet (12%). Heaping amounts of smoke and whiffs of flower. Cherry-pit flavors fol- outrageous texture and mouthfeel. A firm grip of black pepper are the opening hand of the aromas, low, painting around the edges. Raspberry notes tannins and pleasingly bright acidity back it up. followed by notes of plum, blue fruit, ground gran- linger on the finish. It’s an intriguing, fruit-forward It’s a knee-­buckler. Best from 2032–2040. Cellar ite and whiffs of smoke. Beautifully balanced fruit expression of this variety and appellation. —S.S. Selection­ . —S.S. flavors follow, with the black-pepper-filled finish abv: 14.7% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $138 sailing off into the distance.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $42 Eternal 2016 Eternal Echo Gamache Vineyard Leonetti Cellar 2017 Serra Pedace (Walla 87 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Vibrant aromas of 94 Walla Valley). Coming from the ­winery’s Cairdeas 2017 Trí (Yakima Valley). This raspberry compote, macerated cranberry and dried terraced vineyard in the SeVein project, this 92 wine is 60% Syrah, 30% Mourvèdre and herb are followed by red-fruit flavors that are ripe is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromas are 10% Grenache, with the fruit coming mostly from but lighter (particularly through the middle) than ­­penetrating, with notes of raspberry, dark cherry, Boushey Vineyard. Aromas of berry, mineral, blue- the aromas would suggest. It shows some warmth spice and scorched earth. The flavors explode across berry, black pepper, stem and earth are followed by on the finish. It’s a quite jammy take on the variety. the palate, while bringing richness, restraint, and palate-coating, pure, elegant flavors backed by tart —S.S. balance. The tannins give a quite firm handshake, acidity. It’s lovely, with a very long life ahead of it. abv: 15% Price: $59 showing some rusticity, with bright acids right Editors’ Choice. —S.S. there beside them. It’s a classically styled wine that abv: 14.3% Price: $42 Stottle 2015 6 Prong Vineyard Syrah (Horse is near impenetrable right now, with the tannins up 86 Heaven Hills). Aromas of cedar, char, bak- front. But it has the stuffing for an easy two or more Devison 2018 GPR (Columbia Valley). Syrah ing spice and cherry are followed by medium-plus-­ decades of enjoyment. Best from 2030–2040. Cel- 92 makes up 57% of this wine, with the rest bodied fruit and barrel flavors. The variety seems lar Selection­ . —S.S. Grenache (40%) and Mourvèdre. The aromas are hard to place, with the oak getting in the way. A abv: 14.7% Price: $138 reserved, with notes of crushed rock, wild rasp- b­itter note lingers on the finish. —S.S. berry, dried herb and whiffs of baker’s chocolate. abv: 14.7% Price: $34 Figgins 2017 Figlia (Walla Walla Valley). This The cherry and cranberry flavors bring a sense of 93 wine is a blend of Petit Verdot and ­Merlot. volume and density, coating the palate. Give it some Mount Si 2016 Arianses Vineyard Syrah Fruit-forward brooding aromas of dark cherry, time to open up, but it delivers big time and is an 85 (Wahluke Slope). Aromas of raspberry jam, flower, earth, herb and spice are followed by layered excellent value to boot. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. orange peel and spice are followed by light, soft fruit textured dark-fruit flavors that sail on the finish. It abv: 14.5% Price: $29 flavors that finish warm. A medicinal streak runs brings a sense of seriousness and gravitas but with- throughout. —S.S. out any shortage of unabashed, outright delicious- Figgins 2017 Estate (Walla Walla Valley). abv: 15.22% Price: $36 ness. Bright acidity accents it and firm tannins stand 92 This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvi- it up. The structure and balance are impressive. gnon, Petit Verdot and Merlot. The aromas are ­Enjoy from 2027–2032. Cellar Selection. —S.S. more brooding than other releases from this family, RED BLENDS abv: 14.8% Price: $55 with notes of cedar box, cherry, barrels spice and scorched earth. The palate brings no shortage of Leonetti Cellar 2017 Loess (Walla Walla Leonetti Cellar 2017 Holy Roller (Walla Walla fruit intensity, along with firm tannins and bright 96 Valley).­ Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 77% 93 Valley). Coming from the winery’s estate acidity. As with every release from Figgins, this is of this wine, with the rest Malbec (15%) and Petit vineyard in the Rocks District, this wine is a blend one for the cellar. Best from 2028–2033. Cellar Verdot. The aromas pop, with notes of dark cherry, of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Sangiovese. Selection. —S.S. cranberry, scorched earth, barrel spice and cedar. The aromas offer notes of cocoa, dark raspberry, abv: 14.8% Price: $85 Palate-enveloping, textured, rich, dense flavors plum, moist earth, cranberry and hints of savory follow. Firm, sneaky tannins and mouthwatering herb. Plush, forward, plate-coating flavors follow. A Forgeron 2017 Anvil Proprietary Blend (Walla ­acids back it up. One for the ages, this is more about lovely sense of structure holds it all together. Coffee 92 Walla Valley). This is a blend of Cabernet s­ophistication than brawn, though it brings plenty notes linger on the finish. It’s the most forward and Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec. Seeing just 40% of both. Best after 2030, with a decade beyond that. approachable of the 2017 single-vineyard offerings new oak, the focused aromas of dark raspberry, Cellar Selection. —S.S. but it still has plenty of life in front of it. Best from plum and black currant are followed by ripe fruit abv: 14.7% Price: $138 2025 to 2032 with time beyond that. Cellar Selec- flavors that bring texture. It’s beautiful now but will tion. —S.S. benefit from some time in the cellar. —S.S. Leonetti Cellar 2017 Reserve (Walla Walla abv: 14.6% Price: $138 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 96 Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 58% of this wine, followed by an impressive 32% Cairdeas 2017 Caisleán an Pápa Boushey Time & Direction 2018 Diamond Cutter Petit Verdot and 10% Malbec. The aromas pull you 92 Vineyard (Yakima Valley). This wine is 92 (Columbia­ Valley). Though labeled as a into the glass, with notes of dark cherry, coffee, 30% each Grenache and Syrah, followed by 20% red wine, Syrah makes up fully 95%, with the rest flower, plum, graphite and bittersweet chocolate, Mourvèdre, 10% Cinsault and 10% Counoise. Com- Mourvèdre. The aromas are effusive, with notes of showing a pleasing sense of complexity. The flavors ing from one of the most accomplished vineyards blueberry, raspberry, white pepper, herb and ­flower, are supple, textured and richly flavorful. Everything in the state, it was all aged in 500-liter puncheons. showing an appealing sense of­ purity. The silky is in perfect proportion, with spot-on balance. It The aromas are brooding, with notes of raspberry, smooth, fresh-feeling palate more than delivers on all drinks beautifully now, with an open texture, but earth, herb, black pepper, and blueberry. The flavors of that promise, while bringing a real sense of fresh-

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 ness. It’s as complete delight and a superb value. Edi- textured olive, smoke, plum and medicine flavors This wine is a blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, tors’ Choice. —S.S. follow. —S.S. 18% Merlot, 18% Petit Verdot and 11% Cabernet abv: 14.1% Price: $30 abv: 14.7% Price: $55 Franc. The aromas start out reductive, with notes of funk, snuffed out match and tar. Currant, green- Cairdeas 2018 Diffraction (Yakima Valley). Efeste 2016 Final-Final (Columbia Valley). pepper and scorched earth notes follow. The pal- 91 Syrah makes up 62% of this wine, with 90 Half Cabernet Sauvignon and half Syrah, ate shows lightly styled smoky, sleek flavors that the rest bits of Mourvèdre, Petit Sirah, Cinsault, this wine leads with aromas of ripe, fresh raspberry, bring more freshness than the Rocks District is G­renache, Carignan, Alicante Bouchet and Couno- cranberry and chocolate. The palate is balanced and often known for. Mesquite notes linger on the fin- ise. The aromas pop, with notes of blueberry pie, silky smooth in flavors of red fruit and chocolate. ish. —S.S. raspberry, bacon fat, herb, stem and berry, showing —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $75 a piercing sense of purity. The blue-fruit flavors are abv: 14% Price: $32 achingly pure. Smoked meat notes linger on the fin- Stottle 2015 Big Eddie (Columbia Valley). ish. It shows a lot of staying power. Editors’ Choice. Pearl and Stone 2016 Resolution Peaks 89 This wine is 58% Merlot, 28% Cabernet —S.S. 90 (Columbia Valley). Sourced from the Two Sauvignon and 14% Malbec. The warmth of the abv: 14.3% Price: $18 Blondes and Dionysus vineyards, this is principally vintage shows, with bright aromas of raspberry jam Cabernet Sauvignon, with the last 15% a blend of and barrel spice that lead to ripe, plump, full-bodied­ Convergence Zone 2016 Storm Front (­Columbia Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Flavors of sweet ­tomato, red-fruit flavors. A light grip of tannins holds it all 91 Valley). Merlot makes up 55% of this wine, pretty strawberry and a hint of cherries account for together. It’s an appealing, warm-vintage wine made with the balance Cabernets Sauvignon (28%) and the fruit, alongside an earthy, herbal component in a hedonistic style. —S.S. Franc. The aromas are vibrant, with notes of cherry and a streak of coffee. The overall balance is good abv: 14.7% Price: $38 meats, barrel spice, blackberry, licorice and cedar and the acids bring a note of orange citrus. —P.G. box. There’s a pleasing sense of brightness to the abv: 13.5% Price: $42 High Heaven 2018 Estate Grown & Bottled ripe well-balanced fruit flavors, with more than 88 Roaming Elk (Columbia Valley). Syrah enough acid and tannin structure to stand it up TruthTeller 2017 Pun (Yakima Valley). Cab- makes up 60% of this wine, with the rest Merlot. straight. —S.S. 90 ernet Sauvignon (60%) takes the lead on The aromas are fruit forward, with notes of black- abv: 14.5% Price: $29 this wine, with the rest equal parts Malbec and berry, plum, vanilla and smoke. Plump fruit and Merlot. The aromas are ripe and pure, with notes of barrel flavors follow, with a nice bit of tannic heft Gård 2017 Vaucluse Lawrence Estate Wines blackberry, black cherry, licorice, barrel spice and behind them. It’s a little light through the middle, 91 Lawrence Vineyards (Columbia Valley). plum. Full-bodied dark-fruit flavors follow, backed but the rest is lovely, though the oak is prominent. This wine is three-quarters Syrah, with the rest by lightly grainy tannins. Those looking for a fruit- —S.S. ­Grenache. The aromas explode from the glass, with forward, hedonistic wine, look no further. —S.S. abv: NA Price: $15 notes of pure blue fruit along with smoke, medicine, abv: 14.7% Price: $30 olive, fresh herb and flower. The palate is pillowy Miscreant Project NV Pun Intended Miscre­ soft and flavorful, with tart acids putting it all in Ducleaux 2016 Anarchy (Columbia Valley). 88 ant Affirmation #25 (Columbia Valley). This frame. It brings an appealing sense of precision. 89 The aromas on this Syrah-dominant wine wine is mostly Malbec (80%), with the rest Cab- —S.S. are fruit forward, with notes of dark raspberry, ernet Sauvignon. Aromas of plum, cherry, herb and abv: 14.6% Price: $40 cherry, crushed rock and spice along with a whiff of spice are followed by ripe cherry flavors that bring funk and bacon fat. The palate is more reserved in an appealing sense of purity. A light smoky note Pearl and Stone 2017 Resolution Peaks style than the aromas suggest, painting around the lingers on the finish. It’s a surefire crowd-pleaser. 91 (Columbia­ Valley). This new release edges, showing restraint along with the tart acidity —S.S. ­approaches the ripeness of the 2015s, with sweet of the vintage. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $16 fruit flavors of strawberries and plums. It’s prin- abv: 14% Price: $36 cipally Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from the Two Pearl and Stone 2017 Mailbox Peak (Yakima Blondes and Dionysus vineyards. The tannins are Efeste 2018 Paulie StoneTree Vineyard 88 Valley). Sourced from the Two Blondes and moderate and smooth, and the barrel aging has 89 (Wahluke Slope). Mourvèdre (42%) takes Pollard vineyards, this is an earthy, herbal wine, added a streak of coffee liqueur to the finish. —P.G. the lead on this blend, followed by Grenache (33%) with lightly ripened red fruits. It’s tart and a bit abv: 14% Price: $45 and Syrah. Aromas of raspberry candy, black pepper stiff, with tannins tasting of green tea. The overall and cherry compote are followed by rich, ripe, full- balance is fine, and the blend is 47% Merlot, 47% Saviah 2017 G-S-M (Walla Walla Valley). bodied fruit flavors. It finishes quite warm. There Cabernet Franc and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. —P.G. 91 G­renache (80%) takes the lead on this are lots of good things happening, but the warmth abv: 13.3% Price: $36 wine, with the rest equally split between Syrah and holds it back. —S.S. Mourvèdre. With the fruit coming from Lonesome abv: 15% Price: $40 Pearl and Stone 2017 Wandering (Yakima Springs Ranch, Sugarloaf and Elephant Mountain, 88 Valley). This vintage blends 54% Merlot, brooding aromas of espresso bean, scorched earth, Pearl and Stone 2016 Wandering (Yakima 39% Cabernet Sauvignon and just 7% Cabernet raspberry jam and dried herb reveal a silky smooth 89 Valley). Sourced from the Two Blondes Franc. It’s soft and herbal, with pronounced flavors palate. Coffee notes linger on the finish. —S.S. vineyard, this blend is quite different from the pre- of dill and pepper. The fruit is quite light, with rhu- abv: 14.6% Price: $38 vious vintage. It’s principally Merlot (58%) with barb and grilled tomatoes prominent. Drink this Cabernet Sauvignon (26%) and Cabernet Franc over the next two or three years. —P.G. Saviah 2015 Hunt & Gather (Walla Walla (16%) filling out the rest. Lightly smoky in the nose, abv: 13.6% Price: $29 91 Valley).­ This wine is half Syrah from Funk with a roasted note around fruit flavors of cherries Estate in the Rocks District, with the rest Cab- and plums. As with all wines from this site, there’s Sagelands 2018 Riverbed (Columbia Valley). ernet Sauvignon from nearby McClellan Estate. a significant herbal component, here with a lightly 88 Aromas of sugared plum and sweet black A late ­release from the warm vintage, the aromas charred flavor. —P.G. currant are followed by ripe straight-down-the- announce themselves, with notes of moist earth, abv: 13.6% Price: $29 fairway fruit flavors. Soft tannins back it up. It’s a flower, earth, green pepper, coffee and plum. Soft, crowd-pleaser. Best Buy. —S.S. Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 The Classic abv: 14.14% Price: $12 89 In the Rocks Vineyard (Walla Walla Valley).

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Miscreant Project 2017 Boldfaced Lie Mis­ crushed granite, black cherry, raspberry and leather.­ orange peel and raspberry lead to lightly styled fruit 87 creant Affirmation #03 (Columbia Valley). Anise shows over time. Dense, focused fruit flavors flavors with a snappy sense of acidity. The fruit Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for 60% of this wine, follow, with firm, slightly rustic tannins backing doesn’t quite seem to have fully ripened at times, with the rest Merlot. The aromas are bright, with them up. Lively acidity keeps it all in focus. Best with the concentration not entirely there. —S.S. notes of rose hips, raspberry gummy, dried herb and ­after 2026. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $45 spice. Fairly smoky cherry flavors follow, creating abv: 14.2% Price: $75 some distraction. —S.S. Forgeron 2017 Alder Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel­ abv: 14.7% Price: $16 Leonetti Cellar 2017 Sangiovese (Walla 87 (Horse Heaven Hills). Aromas of date and 93 Walla Valley). The aromas bring a dazzling fig are followed by front-loaded flavors that trail Stottle 2015 Red (Washington). This is a sense of detail, with notes of raspberry, cranberry, toward the warm finish. The fruit seems quite 87 kitchen sink blend of Malbec, Tempranillo, sweet dried flower and moist earth. Action-packed, evolved. Drink now. —S.S. Sangiovese, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Cab- dense but not overweighted red-fruit flavors ­ollow.f abv: 15.8% Price: $35 ernet Sauvignon. Vanilla and nougat aromas are The acidity is bright, and the tannins present but out front. Sleekly style dark-fruit flavors are sur- ­remarkably supple. It’s a pitch-perfect example Stottle 2015 Malbec (Columbia Valley). A rounded by plentiful barrel accents. The tannins of the variety, with a very long life in front of it. 87 blend of Malbec from 6 Prong and Angio- give a light grip. —S.S. Editors’­ Choice. —S.S. lina vineyards, the aromas offer notes of eucalyptus, abv: 14.2% Price: $20 abv: 14.3% Price: $75 pine and spice, with the barrel at the fore. Plump dark-fruit and barrel flavors follow, with lightly Willow 2016 Boushey Vineyards Merlot-­ Walla Walla Vintners 2018 Sangiovese grainy tannins in support. The variety seems to get 87 Cabernet Franc (Yakima Valley). This is 91 (Columbia­ Valley). Bright, fresh aromas of a little lost, but it’s interesting. —S.S. mostly Merlot (92%), with the Franc providing raspberry, cranberry and plum are followed by abv: 14.7% Price: $36 support. Tire-rubber aromas are out front, causing brawny fruit flavors, backed by firm, lightly grainy some distraction, with ripe raspberry and gummy tannins. A fine sense of acidity backs it up. It has all Mount Si 2016 Lonesome Springs Ranch bear notes following. Quite ripe fruit flavors follow. of the stuffing but needs time in the cellar for the 86 ­Malbec (Yakima Valley). Aromas of cherry It doesn’t all knit together, but there are some inter- tannins to stretch their legs. Best after 2023. —S.S. and blackberry-fruit leather are followed by quite esting things happening. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 ripe fruit flavors. The warmth of the vintage shows, abv: 14.2% Price: $NA with the fruit seeming desiccated. —S.S. Cairdeas 2017 Cinsault (Yakima Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $32 Convergence Zone NV Mistral Ciel du Cheval 89 Blended with 25% Petite Sirah, the aromas 86 Vineyard (Red Mountain). Aromas of cherry- intrigue, with notes of raspberry, cherry, milk and Stottle 2015 6 Prong Vineyard Tempranillo fruit leather, vanilla and coconut are followed by a whiffs of blue fruit. The palate is fruit forward, light 86 (Horse Heaven Hills). Barrel aromas are far palate where the wood largely takes over. The vari- and elegant, with a pleasing sense of tartness. It’s a out front, with notes of char, toast and freshly hewn ety and appellation seem impossible to find. —S.S. very pretty offering. It doesn’t quite stand up on its wood. The fruit flavors are lighter styled, unable abv: 15.2% Price: $33 own but would do well paired with roasted pork loin. to stand up to the oak. Vanilla notes linger on the —S.S. f­inish. —S.S. Forgeron 2017 Imaginarium (Columbia abv: 13% Price: $36 abv: 14.3% Price: $35 86 Valley).­ The aromas are underripe, with notes of orange oil, green pepper, smoke and green Cairdeas 2017 Carignan (Yakima Valley). herb. The palate is front loaded and shows more of 88 Blended with 25% Counoise, this wine CANADA the same. —S.S. is light in color and offers aromas of tire rubber, abv: 14.3% Price: $35 smoke and red berry, with the reduction clearing RIESLING up with some time open. It’s made in a light, grace- TruthTeller 2017 The Madman (Columbia ful style. Lightly smoky flavors linger on the finish. Cave Spring 2018 Estate Cave Spring Vine­ 86 Valley). Syrah makes up 60% of this wine, There are good things happening if the reduction 94 yard Riesling (Beamsville Bench). Dry, ripe with the rest equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and clears up. —S.S. and textured with bracing minerality, this bursts Cabernet Franc. The aromas don’t entirely knit abv: 13.2% Price: $34 forth with lemon fruit, flesh and rind, along with ­together, with notes of wood spice, funk, smoke and the crystalline acidity that would imply. It’s a dense, anise, and the palate showing more of the same. Gård 2017 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence expressive style, more complex than just lemony, —S.S. 88 Vineyards Grenache (Columbia Valley). The with penetration and focus. Will this age? Indefi- abv: 14.7% Price: $35 aromas offer notes of whole berry, gummy bear, nitely. Is it terrific already? You bet. Drink now into white pepper, earth and herb. There’s a lovely the 2030s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Convergence Zone 2017 Virga (Columbia sense of lightness and gracefulness to the palate’s abv: 12% Price: $20 85 Valley).­ Mourvèdre is in the lead here reserved fruit flavors. It’s a pretty interpretation of (55%), followed by Grenache (35%) and Syrah. the variety, though it might be too light for some. Cave Spring 2018 CSV Riesling (Beamsville Aromas of vanilla, wood spice, char and coffee are —S.S. 92 Bench). Old vines anchor this estate-grown followed by wood-forward flavors, with coffee and abv: 14.5% Price: $40 reserve wine. It’s dry and fruity, riper and with more vanilla notes lingering on the finish. The barrel alcohol than the previous vintage, so more forward ­influence rules the day. —S.S. TruthTeller 2017 Retort Petit Verdot (Colum­ and accessible as a result. A mix of citrus fruit and abv: 14.5% Price: $33 88 bia Valley). Raspberry and cherry-jam aro- lemon peel highlights fill the palate, with just a faint mas are out front. Full-bodied flavors follow with a suggestion of gin-like botanical herbs. It’s a fine big grip of firm tannins. It’s a beast of a wine, needing effort, more suitable for near-term drinking than OTHER RED WINES some time and food to tame it. Pair it with roasted long-term cellaring. —P.G. pork loin with a cherry glaze. —S.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 Leonetti Cellar 2014 Aglianico (Walla Walla abv: 14.7% Price: $40 93 Valley). This is the only example of this ­variety from the valley, but it shows the potential. Forgeron 2018 Boushey Vineyard Grenache The aromas are distinctive, with notes of earth, 87 (Yakima Valley). Aromas of cranberry, fresh

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Cave Spring 2018 Riesling (Niagara Penin­ wine. Or be adventurous and pair it with a mush- notes. This is mostly about ripe fruit character and 91 sula). For full review see page 15. Editors’ room tart. New England Uncorked. —P.G. richness, not nuance. Vines of Argentina. —M.S. Choice. abv: 11% Price: $70/375 ml abv: 14.8% Price: $45 abv: 11% Price: $17 Antigal 2015 Aduentus Cabernet Franc ARGENTINA 90 (Mendoza). For full review see page 18. PINOT NOIR abv: 14.8% Price: $20 CHARDONNAY Quails’ Gate 2018 Pinot Noir (Okanagan Val­ Argento 2016 Reserva Cabernet Franc 91 ley). A longtime leader in British Columbia, Puramun 2019 Reserva Chardonnay (Uco Val­ 90 (Mendoza). Mild reduction on a nose that this Quails’ Gate Pinot is a stylish, nicely focused 91 ley). Dusty aromas of lanolin are backed by smells of spiced beef, salami with fennel and dark wine that delivers light but true varietal fruit and peach and dried cheese notes. This has a full and berry fruits leads to a full and layered palate with balance, with a BC twist. The winery blends in 7% healthy palate toting melon, apple, vanilla and light good natural acidity. Blackberry and cassis flavors Gamay to pump up the color and the tannins, and oak flavors. A mild finish is pulpy but not flac- are backed by a savory stewed note, while this is the blend works well here. —P.G. cid. From the mind and hands of winemaker Pepe smooth and composed on the finish. Pacific High- abv: 13.5% Price: $26 Galante; drink through 2021. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. way Wines & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Cave Spring 2018 Pinot Noir (Niagara 88 Escarpment). Already showing hints of Luca 2019 G Lot Chardonnay (Tupungato). A early maturity around the robe, this delicate wine 90 smooth mix of melon, tropical fruit, vanilla CABERNET SAUVIGNON incorporates light flavors of wild berries, herbs and and woody aromas open this high-elevation, mostly citrus. There’s a vein of orange soda, balanced tan- barrel-fermented Chardonnay that’s balanced yet Los Bocheros 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon nins and more persistence through the finish than a touch creamy in feel. Light oak, buttered white- 88 (Luján de Cuyo). Dark berry aromas are the low alcohol might suggest. Drink now and over bread toast and subtle white-fruit flavors are short spicy and fairy dense and deep. On the palate, this the next three or four years. —P.G. on a plump finish. Drink through 2022. Vine Con- Cabernet is full but uncomplicated, while spicy abv: 12.5% Price: $21 nections. —M.S. black plum and berry flavors come with a meaty abv: 13.5% Price: $35 note. A slightly creamy finish offers a hint of oak and Quails’ Gate 2017 Stewart Family Reserve related chocolate. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. 88 Pinot Noir (Okanagan Valley). The reserve DiamAndes 2019 Perlita Chardonnay (Uco abv: 13.5% Price: $12 shows tannic black fruits, chalky citrus and deep 89 Valley). Basic but clean aromas of under- streaks of espresso and dark chocolate. Aged 11 ripe green melon and papaya are more subdued than Pascual Toso 2018 Estate Cabernet Sauvi­ months in a mix of new and used French oak, it lively. This Uco Valley Chardonnay offers a quality 88 gnon (Mendoza). Familiar berry aromas finishes firm and grainy, with astringent, dominant mouthfeel braced by more than adequate acidity, suggest good quality, while this feels tight, juicy tannins. —P.G. while flavors of melon, white fruits and light oak and fresh on the palate. Plum and red-berry flavors abv: 13.5% Price: $50 are steady on a round finish. MHW, Ltd.Best Buy. are lightly spiced, while this everyday Cabernet is —M.S. steady on the finish. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $14 CABERNET FRANC Domaine Bousquet 2019 Reserve Made With Ceibo 2019 Estate Bottled Sustainably Domaine de la Commanderie 2017 Tradition 89 Organic Grapes Chardonnay (Tupungato). 86 Farmed Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). 91 Cabernet Franc (Ontario). With its malolac- Aromas of papaya and dry melon are touched up Rubbery berry aromas come with mild spice notes, tic fermentation and aging in large barrels this is a by mild oak notes. This Chard is on the full-bodied cinnamon in particular. A standard palate is plump rich wine that is now just ready to drink. The black side, with a touch of flatness to a weighty palate. and balanced, while this tastes of spiced plum fruits and tannins have softened together, bringing Oak spice, green banana and melony flavors wrap blended with herbs. The finish is steady but offers out rich spice and a concentrated structure. While up on a plump finish with moderate acidity. WISD nothing new or complex. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. the wine is ready, it will age further and will be at LLC. —M.S. —M.S. its best from 2021. Jack Edwards Collection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 13.9% Price: $10 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Salentein 2019 Reserve Chardonnay (Uco Santa Julia 2018 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi­ Cave Spring 2018 Cabernet Franc (Niagara 88 Valley). Peach and other mild white-fruit 86 gnon (Uco Valley). Blackberry aromas come 86 Escarpment). Tongue lashing astringency scents are dusty and smell a bit like an oyster shell. with reduced notes of latex, rubber and black olive. rules the palate, with green tea tannins and more A tight, fairly lean palate (for Chardonnay) is driven This is fleshy but also dry and tannic, with grapy herbs than fruit. It’s an earthy, rather green wine, by bold acidity, while this tastes lightly briny and berry flavors that struggle to rise above generic. with light hints of sweet baking spices, presumably of stone fruits and green melon. Palm Bay Interna- Touches of herbs and spice are noted on an acidic from barrel aging. —P.G. tional. —M.S. finish. Winesellers, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 13% Price: $13

Almarada 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Uco ICE WINE CABERNET FRANC 85 Valley). Soft berry aromas hint at prune, while this feels jammy and a bit raisiny. Blueberry, Pillitteri 2016 Reserve Icewine Cabernet Franc Rule of Three 2014 Cabernet Franc (Uco Val­ black plum and raisin flavors conclude on a warm 91 (Niagara-On-The-Lake). This unique dessert 91 ley). Ripe, robust berry and prune aromas and fleshy finish. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. wine sports a scent and flavor imbued with mush- show a strong oak component, while this feels flush abv: 13.6% Price: $15 rooms, along with less savory flavors of orange fruit and powerful, but balanced. Raisiny berry, choco- and rind. Though just 11% alcohol, it is not cloyingly late and oak flavors play out on a finish with prune Los Haroldos 2018 Estate Cabernet Sauvi­ sweet, just sweet enough to serve as a light dessert 85 gnon (Mendoza). Red plum and cinnamon dust aromas are most prominent on a wiry nose.

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BUYINGGUIDE

This is a fresh but basic red with plum flavors that mas of desert scrub, plum, raspberry and rose pet- plum, currant, spice, graphite and even hot desert go only so far. A slight sensation of heat and burn als. A racy palate is composed and balanced, while stones. The palate on this old-vines Malbec is edgy, appears on the finish. Don Cano Wines.Best Buy. this is generous with its plum, berry and peppery with rubbing tannins and driving acidity. Chocolaty —M.S. spice flavors. A long, composed finish confirms that oak flavors blend with herbal berry fruit, while this abv: 14% Price: $10 this is a superb Malbec from a wet year in Argen- big wine from a difficult vintage finishes with last- tina. This will improve through 2025; drink through ing chocolaty oak. Drink through 2030. Vineyard P15 2018 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvi­ 2030. Copa Fina Imports CA. Cellar Selection. Brands. —M.S. 84 gnon (Patagonia). Raw, slightly weedy aro- —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $99 mas of red fruits lead to grassy red-berry flavors. abv: 14.9% Price: $56 A mild green note lingers on a standard finish with Navarro Correas 2018 Colección Privada Mal­ herbal overtones. G&B Importers. —M.S. Luca 2016 Nico Malbec (Mendoza). A satu- 91 bec (Mendoza). Fresh, almost minerally plum abv: NA Price: $13 94 rated blackish purple color and reduced and berry aromas are spot-on for an everyday Mal- aromas of black olive, road tar and ultimately bec such as this. A bright, juicy palate has verve Tenorio 2019 Single Vineyard Reserva Cab­ savory black fruits open this power-packed Malbec. along with depth and balance, while plum and berry 84 ernet Sauvignon (La Rioja). Saucy red-plum A deeply fruity palate is braced by rugged tannins, flavors come with a light hint of helpful oak. Spice aromas are herbal and grassy, with a minty green while this tastes decidedly toasty and dark, with and chocolate notes play out on a finish that offers note. A crisp palate is high in acidity, while plum crusty black-fruit flavors touched up by herbs and some complexity. August Wine Group. Best Buy. and red-berry flavors are lively and bright on a zesty oak. Toastiness and coffee notes remain up front on —M.S. finish. EcoValley. —M.S. a sizable finish; drink through 2032. Vine Connec- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 tions. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $125 The Pledge 2017 1000 Malbec (Mendoza). Tussock Jumper 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Ripe, earthy berry aromas are on the savory 84 (San Juan). A flat nose is dulled down by Terrazas de Los Andes 2017 Grand High Alti­ and leathery side, while this pulls inward on the raisiny berry aromas, while this feels full but sticky. 94 tude Vineyards Malbec (Mendoza). Ripe palate due to racy acidity. Tangy berry and black Flavors that lean towards prune and dried berry black-fruit aromas are potent and meaty, with com- plum flavors are lightly herbal, while this doesn’t fruits finish a bit mealy. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S. plex notes of savory beef stew and black coffee. A full show a lot besides mild oak on a long finish driven abv: 13% Price: $12 palate is plush and stylish, while this high-elevation by perky acidity. Drink through 2025. Tri-Vin Malbec tastes of blackberry, cassis and savory Imports. —M.S. Domaine Bousquet 2019 Virgin Organic Cab­ herbs. Black-fruit flavors remain forceful on a finish abv: 14.5% Price: $65 83 ernet Sauvignon (Tupungato). Lean, herbal with good depth and great feel; drink through 2026. red plum and currant aromas are slightly green, Moët Hennessy USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Valentín Bianchi 2017 Famiglia Bianchi Gran while this organic Cabernet feels tight and clipped. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 91 Malbec (Uco Valley). For full review see page Tart plum and red-berry flavors are green in the 18. middle, and this tastes grassy on a shallow finish. Luca 2017 Nico Rosas Vineyard Malbec (Men­ abv: 14.1% Price: $30 WISD LLC. —M.S. 93 doza). Savory, beefy blackberry aromas are abv: 14.5% Price: $13 lightly herbal and minty, which helps boost the Angulo Innocenti 2017 Nonni Estate Grown complexity factor on this lush, bold Malbec that 90 Malbec (La Consulta). Berry and plum aro- benefits from juicy acidity. Wild berry, dark plum mas are full and lightly dusty and earthy. A plump MALBEC and integrated oak flavors linger on a bright finish palate is braced by juicy acidity, while flavors of that’s more fresh than heavy. Drink through 2025. plum and berry fruits are touched up by a hint of Kaiken 2016 Mai The First Malbec (Men­ Vine Connections. —M.S. grainy oak. Overall, this is a smooth and solid Mal- 95 doza). Bold black-fruit aromas are slightly abv: 14% Price: $125 bec that should elicit zero complaints. Vineyard reduced and tarry at first, but with airing alluring Brands. Best Buy. —M.S. herbal notes and complexity take over. While this Matervini 2017 Antes Andes Valles Cal­ abv: 13.5% Price: $14 is fully ripe and full in body and color, it’s lively in 93 chaquíes Malbec (Salta). Exotic aromas feel. Toasty, almost charred oak goes toe to toe with familiar to the Calchaquí Valleys of Salta include Dante Robino 2017 Reserva Estate Bottled deep black-fruit flavors. All of this is backed by a blueberry, blackberry, cardamom, fennel and 90 Malbec (Mendoza). Dark berry aromas are smoky, chocolaty finish. A huge success for a 2016, a leather. The palate on this highly individual Malbec pure, with good depth. This is flush and packed year marred by rain. Drink through 2030. Guarachi is deep but lifted by a shock of bright acidity. Berry with fruit on a balanced palate, while typical Men- Wine Partners. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. fruit flavors are oaky and aided by Middle Eastern doza Malbec flavors of spicy dark-berry fruits finish abv: 14.5% Price: $80 spice notes. A steady finish of medium length and lightly toasty and peppery. Everything about this is depth is the final chapter to this small-production right and approachable. Carbe LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. Matervini 2017 Piedras Viejas El Challao Las Malbec. Drink through 2024. La Granja Winery. abv: 14.3% Price: $15 95 Heras Malbec (Mendoza). A dark purple- —M.S. meets-black color and concentrated black-fruit abv: 14.4% Price: $65 Los Haroldos 2017 Reserva Estate Bottled aromas set up an extracted palate that’s grapy and 90 12 Meses en Roble Malbec (Mendoza). Bold pulpy but not soft, jammy or out of balance. Inky Potrero 2016 Gran Malbec (Uco Valley). Flo- black fruit aromas come with a light blanket of oak. blackberry and cassis flavors come with notes of 93 ral blueberry aromas come with a note of On the palate, this feels lively and juicy, making it charred oak, graphite and peppery spice, while this cardamom on what is an exotic nose. A tight pal- food-friendly. Dark plum, blackberry and mild spice is bold but focused and controlled on a grabby fin- ate with drawing tannins deals spiced plum flavors flavors finish with a jolt of acidity. While this deliv- ish. Drink through 2028. La Granja Winery. Editors’ backed by dry oakiness. This Malbec is long on the ers nothing unusual or riveting, it’s a surefire Mal- Choice. —M.S. finish with spicy barrel notes. Drink through 2026. bec for drinking now. Graziano Imports. Best Buy. abv: 14.3% Price: $150 M Imports, LLC. —M.S. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $34 abv: 14% Price: $15 Siete Fincas 2016 Gran Secreto Malbec 95 (Mendoza). Complexity not saturation and TintoNegro 2016 1955 Vineyard Malbec (La extraction describes the nose, which features aro- 92 Consulta). An array of classy aromas include

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 The Show 2018 Malbec (Mendoza). For full a note of raspberry, while a medium-depth palate mas give this Malbec a dark outlook on the nose, 90 review see page 23. Best Buy. ranks as fleshy and pulpy. Blackberry and currant while the palate is basic and narrow in feel. Herbal abv: 13.8% Price: $15 flavors are maintained on the finish. For everyday plum and chocolaty oak flavors include a hint of purposes this gets it right. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. green. Saranty Imports. —M.S. Almarada 2017 Malbec (Uco Valley). Wild —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 89 berry aromas come with a touch of oak abv: 13.5% Price: $10 spice, while this feels bright with notable but con- Nampe 2019 Natural Expression Malbec trolled acidic bite. Spicy dark-berry flavors are Bodini 2019 Malbec (Mendoza). Spicy berry 86 (Mendoza). Cranberry and jammy red berry lightly oaked as this weakens on a finish with minty 87 fruit aromas come with mild herbal notes. scents come with a hint of cinnamon powder. A herbal hints. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. This Malbec is decidedly fresh and snappy, with tight, juicy palate is linear, while spicy red berry and abv: 13.8% Price: $15 grapy berry flavors that include wild brush notes plum flavors finish bright but a little raw. Don Cano that push rusticity. A simple but solid finish makes Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. Pampas del Sur 2017 Estilo Malbec (Men­ this easy to process. Vine Connections. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $8 89 doza). Berry and plum aromas are on the —M.S. jammy side, while this is full in body and gener- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Casir Dos Santos 2017 Reserve Malbec ally well balanced. Spicy, lightly herbal berry and 85 (Mendoza). Prickly, sharp-edged aromas plum flavors are backed by a woody accent, while on Lamadrid 2019 Single Vineyard Malbec of herbal berry fruits announce a scratchy Malbec. the finish this is firm in feel, spicy and has an oaky 87 (Agrelo). Spicy berry and plum aromas are Charred oak covers green-leaning berry flavors, fol- aftertaste. Saranty Imports. —M.S. reedy, while this has a clamping palate and rubbing lowed by mild bitterness. A full-feeling finish is hot abv: 13.5% Price: $17 tannins. Hard spice flavors accent herbal, minty and herbaceous. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. berry flavors. On the finish, this is dry and rubbing. abv: 13.9% Price: $21 Viñalba 2018 Reserva Malbec (Uco Valley). Vino Del Sol. —M.S. 89 A dark color and relatively deep aromas of abv: 14% Price: $15 Los Haroldos 2018 Estate Malbec (Men­ black fruits, iodine and minerals lead to a concen- 85 doza). Herbal plum aromas are dusted with trated palate that’s fairly serious in terms of com- Nieto Senetiner 2017 Don Nicanor Malbec cinnamon-like spice notes, while this feels punchy plexity. Blackberry, cassis and spice flavors finish 87 (Mendoza). Wiry plum and berry aromas are on the palate. Generic berry and baking spice flavors with a touch of heat. American Spirits Exchange on the raw and briny side, with a hint of green. A are mild on the finish. Graziano Imports.Best Buy. Ltd. —M.S. drying, tannic palate holds underdeveloped plum —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA and currant flavors that finish herbal and a bit oaky. abv: 14% Price: $10 Foley Family Wines. —M.S. Bodega Iaccarini 2017 Cavas Don Nicasio abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Manos Negras 2019 Quimay Malbec (Río 88 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Ripe berry 85 Negro Valley). Plum and herbal grassy notes and cassis aromas include raisin and prune notes. Proemio 2019 Origins Malbec (Mendoza). define the nose on this Patagonian Malbec. High Herbal, spicy berry and desiccated plum flavors 87 Reedy red berry aromas in this unoaked acidity makes for a gritty, grinding palate, while are a touch green, while this finishes with heft and Malbec offer a hint of charred beef and cinnamon- black fruit and plum flavors are peppery prior to a minty, peppery touches. EcoValley. —M.S. like spice. A bright, lively palate is medium in body, dry, acidic finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16 while this tastes of juicy plum and peppery spice abv: 13.5% Price: $15 prior to a finish that’s youthful and a touch fiery. Bodega Toneles 2017 Tonel 46 Reserve Mal­ Sommelier Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. Graffigna 2018 Malbec (San Juan). Warm, 88 bec (Mendoza). Dusty berry and black plum abv: 14.4% Price: $12 84 leathery aromas turn toward muddled and aromas come with a hint of oak-driven milk choco- green after airing. Herbal berry and spice flavors are late. A full palate tastes of generic berry fruits and Qaramy 2018 Latido Malbec (Uco Valley). lightly minty, while heat is a component of an herbal cocoa, while grainy oak notes on the finish remain in 87 Savory berry aromas are more stewed than finish. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. the chocolaty zone. This is a perfectly nice Malbec bright and fruity, while this is basic on the pal- abv: 13.7% Price: $10 to drink now through 2021. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S. ate. Herbal red fruit flavors are lightly spiced and a abv: 14% Price: $15 touch green, while this finishes similarly. Matador- Malma 2018 Finca La Papay Malbec (Patago­ vino LLC. —M.S. 84 nia). A wiry nose with citric leanings and Domaine Bousquet 2019 Virgen Organic Mal­ abv: 14% Price: $13 grassy overtones is low on perceptible ripeness. 88 bec (Tupungato). Berry aromas are lightly Herbal red fruit flavors show better than the nose, reduced at first, with notes of fresh asphalt and Santa Julia 2019 [+] Malbec (Mendoza). while this closes with a touch of green. While not purple flowers. The medium-bodied palate shows 87 Berry and plum aromas are a touch spicy but a bad wine, this Malbec reflects Patagonia’s cooler a deft touch, while it tastes of bright berry fruits. also a bit grassy upon deeper inspection. An acidic climate. Vias Imports. —M.S. The finish of this organic Malbec is juicy and steady. palate is fresh and lean, but chippy. Tart plum fla- abv: 14% Price: $14 WISD LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. vors are backed by spice notes, while this Malbec abv: 14.5% Price: $13 finishes fresh. Winesellers, Ltd.Best Buy. —M.S. Quara 2019 Estate Malbec (Cafayate). Mud- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 84 dled, earthy berry aromas are roasted and Finca Flichman 2018 Reserva Estate Bottled herbal in true Cafayate fashion. A firm palate deals 88 Malbec (Mendoza). Berry and plum aromas Tussock Jumper 2019 Malbec (San Juan). gritty cranberry flavors, with a rustic peppery qual- are matched by grainy, toasty oak that lends dark- 87 Standard berry aromas are ripe and inviting, ity to the finish. Pampa Beverages LLC. —M.S. ness to how this opens. A full and fleshy palate is while this feels spunky and alert. Berry and plum abv: 13.5% Price: $11 home to dark berry, spice and oaky flavors, while flavors are touched up with peppery spice notes, this Malbec runs long on a woody tasting finish. while this fades out with some heat and aggression. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. RED BLENDS abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $12 Estela Perinetti 2016 Finca Mangato Grand Bastante Bien 2019 Estate Bottled Malbec Finca Flichman 2018 Misterio Reserva Mal­ 94 Vin (Tupungato). Exotic aromas of dried 87 (Mendoza). Earthy plum aromas include 86 bec (Mendoza). Asphalt and charred aro- spices, desert herbs, leafy berry fruits and violets

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BUYINGGUIDE are attractive given how rainy the 2016 vintage was throughout Mendoza. Delicious berry fruit flavors AUSTRALIA SEMILLON include hints of cardamom, herbs and integrated oak spice, while Tupungato’s herbal essence is front CHARDONNAY Tyrrell’s 2014 Vat 1 Semillon (Hunter Valley). and center on a warm and long finish. Drink through 96 From a stellar vintage in Hunter Valley, this 2024. Seaview Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Ocean Eight 2015 Verve Chardonnay (Morn­ late-release wine is just coming into its own. Freshly abv: 14% Price: $55 94 ington Peninsula). You’d be forgiven for squeezed lemon bursts from the glass, accompanied guessing this was a more youthful wine than it is. by citrus leaf, blossom and white spice notes. A Durigutti 2016 Victoria Corte de Finca (Men­ Fresh as a daisy, this graceful, ageworthy Chard laser beam of crystalline acidity slices through the 92 doza). Linear aromas of plum, currant and opens with tangy fruit—oranges and nectarines— textural, citrus-driven palate. Drink now with but- licorice root are not overly expansive. A bouncy pal- streaked by seashell-like minerals, gingery spice, tery seafood, or cellar for through 2035. Broadbent ate is made dry by coarse tannins, while this blend honeysuckle and a hint of buttered toast. The palate Selections, Inc. —C.P. of Malbec, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Cordisco is brightened by a pristine line of acidity and those abv: 11.5% Price: $60 (Montepulciano) tastes of spicy plum and is snappy saline, mineral nuances run through to the lengthy in its attack. Toasty oak controls a finish of standard finish. This has another decade left in it at least. Tyrrell’s 2013 HVD Single Vineyard Semillon length. Drink through 2024. The Artisan Collection. Hudson Wine Brokers. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. 94 (Hunter Valley). From dry grown vineyards —M.S. abv: NA Price: $46 planted in 1908, this vintage, despite being on the abv: 14.5% Price: $70 tricky side, is showing beautifully. Radiant gold in Oxford Landing 2019 Chardonnay (South color, the nose is classic Hunter Semillon: honey, Septima 2016 Gran Reserva (Mendoza). For 88 Australia). This is a solid South Aussie beeswax, lemon oil and fresh ginger. The bone-dry 92 full review see page 14. Chard at a bargain price. Peach and pineapple are palate balances laser-like acidity with layers of tex- abv: 14% Price: $35 backed by a salted caramel note. The palate is neatly ture and an endlessly long, citrusy finish. Drinking balanced between a creamy texture and bright acid- deliciously now, especially if well paired with food, Hermandad 2016 Blend (Uco Valley). Berry ity, with a crisp, refreshing finish. Negociants USA– it has the capacity to age until 2030, at least. Broad- 91 fruit aromas include notes of raisin and Winebow. Best Buy. —C.P. bent Selections, Inc. —C.P. prune, while this blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sau- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 11.5% Price: $45 vignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot feels racy, which is ideal if you are looking for full-flavored reds with- Jip Jip Rocks 2019 Chardonnay (Padthaway). Brokenwood 2019 Semillon (Hunter Valley). out too much heft. Peppery spice and oak accent 87 This quintessential South Aussie Chardon- 93 For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. core plum flavors, while this finishes long and spicy, nay, from the terra rossa soils of the Padthaway abv: 11% Price: $20 with a twinge of toastiness. Drink through 2022. region, is buttery and a little toasty, with lemon Graziano Imports. —M.S. curd and peach notes. The mouthfeel is creamy with Ashbrook Estate 2018 Wilyabrup Single abv: 13.5% Price: $25 lifted acidity that feels somewhat forced. Kysela 89 Vineyard & Hand Picked Semillon (Margaret Père et Fils. —C.P. River). A little reductive at first but given time in Antigal 2016 Aduentus Petit Blend (Men­ abv: 13.5% Price: $20 the glass, subtle yet very Semillon-esque aromas 90 doza). Mild reduction on the nose is will show themselves: citrus, petrol, wax, grass and reflected through earthy aromas of black olive, Yalumba 2018 Made With Organic Grapes freshly sheered lanolin. There’s a prickly line of maple-like oak and rubber. A medium-full palate 86 Chardonnay (South Australia). This ripe rapier acidity, a talc-like texture and a tingly, cit- offers savory blue-green berry flavors along with but balanced and refreshing Chardonnay expresses rus finish. Young and a little austere at the moment, oak spice. As this blend of Malbec, Petit Verdot and melon, fig, toasted coconut and soft caramel notes this has potential to reach greater heights with time. Cabernet Franc finishes, a toasty blackened char- to start. There’s bright acidity on the palate along Drink 2021–2030. Little Peacock Imports. —C.P. acter emerges. Drink through 2023. Cork Alliance. with a creamy texture and what feels like little to abv: 13% Price: $28 —M.S. no oak influence. Negociants USA–Winebow. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 PINOT NOIR Algodon 2015 Premium Reserve Cabernet Mad Fish 2017 Chardonnay (Western Austra­ 89 Franc-Malbec (Mendoza). Fiery, aggressive 85 lia). This vintage of Mad Fish, sourced from Mac Forbes 2018 Pinot Noir (Yarra Valley). aromas of leafy berry fruits offer a touch of exotic multiple regions in Western Australia, feels ripe 93 What a joy-inducing drop! Radiant cherry in spice. This blend of Cab Franc and Malbec has a and borderline confected on the nose. Heady notes color, it smells like a bowl full of just picked red ber- scratchy mouthfeel in front of slightly cooked berry, of peach, stewed bananas and vanilla extract lead ries, rhubarb and watermelon. Subtle spice, min- raisin and spice flavors. Prune and raisin flavors to a palate that is markedly fresher, thanks to lifted eral and floral notes hang out underneath. All that carry over to the finish. MyWinesDirect Imports. acidity. There’s a lot of winemaking here without juicy, pulpy fruit washes over the tongue, cinched —M.S. much varietal or place expression. Craft+Estate– by gentle tannins and lingering long after swallow- abv: 14% Price: $30 Winebow. —C.P. ing. A lightweight red for drinking slightly chilled. abv: 13% Price: $16 The epitome of modern, cool-climate Aussie Pinot. Bodega Goulart 2015 B Black Legion Spe­ Hudson Wine Brokers. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. 88 cial Blend Old Vines Malbec-Cabernet Franc abv: NA Price: $32 (Mendoza). Spicy, leafy berry aromas are earthy, PINOT GRIS oaky and a touch green. This blend of Malbec and Cabernet Franc feels full and creamy, maybe even Holm Oak 2018 Pinot Gris (Tasmania). CABERNET SAUVIGNON a bit soupy. Plum and raisiny flavors are jacked up 89 This pale yellow Tasmanian Pinot Gris is a with oak spice, while this retains a woody character smartly put together summer sipper. With delicate Henschke 2015 Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sau­ on a hot finish. Opici Wines. —M.S. stone fruit, floral and ground ginger notes through- 96 vignon (Eden Valley). After a year’s hiatus, abv: 14.2% Price: $25 out, it’s crisp, balanced and refreshing, if not exactly Cyril is back, and almost entirely composed of 99% bursting with personality. Hudson Wine Brokers. Cabernet this vintage (with 1% Cab Franc). It’s —C.P. all the more expressive for it. Blueberry and black abv: 12.4% Price: $24 cherry fruit is neatly tucked behind notes of iodine,

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 cigar box, tomato leaf, dried herbs and flowers. famed terra rossa soils. A little shy at first, a austere, pinched by drying tannins that leave little The palate is slinky and sexy, but also powerful. It decanter is recommended. It opens to an intensely room for the fruit. It’s nice to see such restraint, but offers crunchy fruit, taut tannins and layers of tex- herbal nose, swimming with mint, black olive more generosity and texture would also be welcome. ture. Uniquely Henschke, there isn’t another wine tapenade, currant, black cherry, dried flowers and Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —C.P. in Australia like it. Drink now–2040. Negociants a medicinal and charred oak note. The palate is rich abv: 13.5% Price: $20 USA–Winebow. —C.P. and mouthcoating, cinched by dusty, muscular tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $180 nins. It lacks some of the elegance and complexity of Alpha Crucis 2018 Titan Cabernet Sauvignon other top Cabs but is nonetheless highly cellarwor- 88 (McLaren Vale). True to McLaren Vale’s Brothers in Arms 2012 Formby & Adams thy. Drink 2021–2040. Negociants USA–Winebow. Mediterranean climate, this Cab is plush and choc- 94 Leading Horse Cabernet Sauvignon (Lang­ —C.P. olaty, with notes of mint, vanilla, sun-ripened ber- horne Creek). This historic winery’s Cab rates high abv: 14% Price: $58 ries and a streak of oak. The palate is broad and rich, in the bang for buck category. The nose is a deep cinched by muscular, chalky tannins, with a nice well of aromas: plum, red currant, cedar, charred Chalk Hill 2018 Wits End Luna Cabernet Sau­ balance of savory and fruit flavors. Little Peacock beet, iodine and graphite, with bundles of spice. The 91 vignon (McLaren Vale). This wine neatly Imports. —C.P. palate shows Cabernet’s power but with restraint expresses the powerful, spicy McLaren Vale Cab abv: 14.5% Price: $28 and elegance. Dusty, spicy tannins weave through style while also feeling approachable and delicately flavors of spice and cigar box, lifted by juicy fruit. handled. Raisiny plum and savory spice are under- Helen and Joey 2017 Inara Cabernet Sau­ A quintessential South Aussie Cabernet drinking pinned by something more mineral and earthy. Juicy 86 vignon (Yarra Valley). This wine is a little beautifully after eight years of bottle age. American fruit on the palate is cinched by muscular, spicy stalky and vegetal and also ripe and plush. There’s Estates Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. tannins. A well-priced wintery sipper for drinking some lovely herbal characters and also some soapy, abv: 14.5% Price: $20 over the next few years. Little Peacock Imports. Edi- spicy oak. The palate is nicely gripped by herbal tors’ Choice. —C.P. tannins, but texturally it feels a bit thin and flat, Penley Estate 2018 Tolmer Cabernet Sauvi­ abv: 14% Price: $18 and the oak pokes out. Kosher. American Spirits 94 gnon (Coonawarra). For full review see page Exchange Ltd. —C.P. 7. Editors’ Choice. Helen and Joey 2017 Layla Cabernet Sauvi­ abv: 13.3% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $25 90 gnon (Yarra Valley). This is an herbaceous Cabernet that flies its cool climate colors high. Less Hopes End 2017 Brandy Barrel Aged 30 Days Penfolds 2017 Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon about the fruit and more about dried herb, tomato 82 Cabernet Sauvignon (South Australia). This 93 (South Australia). For full review see page leaf, tobacco and black olive brine characters— Cab is aged in brandy barrels, and as a result, vir- 10. along with a bit of soapy oak—this is a medium- tually all you can taste is the brandy barrel. Like abv: 14.5% Price: $80 bodied Yarra Valley wine. Savory tannins and a cinnamon chewing gum meets air freshener meets chalky texture make for a palate somewhat lacking stewed cherry fruit, it feels both odd and sweet, like Penley Estate 2018 Phoenix Cabernet Sauvi­ in fleshy fruit. But pair this with the right dish— an experiment gone south. Tannins are raspy and 92 gnon (Coonawarra). For full review see page maybe something gamy and roasted with berries or astringent, and the fruit is flat and muffled by the 13. a sweet glaze—and all should feel in balance. Ameri- wood. Trinchero Family Estates. —C.P. abv: 14% Price: $20 can Spirits Exchange Ltd. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Spring Seed Wine Co. 2017 Cockscomb Organ­ 92 ically Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (McLaren Barossa Valley Estate 2018 Cabernet Sauvi­ SHIRAZ Vale). This is a limpid and expressive Cab that is 89 gnon (Barossa Valley). This is a sunshine- approachable now without losing Cabernet’s—and soaked, juicy-fruited South Aussie Cab that offers Henschke 2015 Mount Edelstone Vineyard McLaren Vale’s—inherent power. Bright currant a backbone of tobacco leaf, graphite and spice to 96 Shiraz (Eden Valley). From one of South and cherry fruit are backed by an earthy, herbal, support the abundance of berries on both the nose Australia’s most historic vineyards (planted in 1912 cigar box spine. A lift of tingly acidity in the mouth and the palate. Tannins are textured and temper the and bottled as a single-vineyard wine since 1952), makes this more refreshing than you’d expect, and fruit plushness, but it’s hard to get a sense of place Henschke’s Shiraz ripples with flavor, texture and flavors flow from nose to palate. Fine savory tannins or personality here. A straightforward yet appealing length. Sun-puckered plum and cherry, milky cof- fasten everything into place. Epicurean Wines. Edi- red. Delegat USA, Inc. Best Buy. —C.P. fee with cocoa powder, ground pepper, beet, baking tors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 spices and warm stone all roll over the senses. Pow- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 dery, spicy tannins juxtapose the juicy, silky fruit. Battle of Bosworth 2017 Cabernet Sauvi­ Drinking nicely now but should cellar beautifully Yalumba 2018 The Y Series Cabernet Sauvi­ 89 gnon (McLaren Vale). This 2016 Cabernet for 20 years or more. Negociants USA–Winebow. 92 gnon (South Australia). Yalumba’s everyday from organic producer Battle of Bosworth is already —C.P. reds tend to have a brightness and approachability showing its age but in a more or less likable way. abv: 14.5% Price: $225 about them, and this latest Cab doesn’t disappoint. Plumy fruit is backed by mocha, mint and a pleth- The nose is a lovely combo of currant and red berry ora of dried herbs. The texture is nuanced, gripped Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards 2017 Shiraz backed by graphite, eucalyptus and large helpings of by muscular tannins, and some heat can be felt 93 (McLaren Vale). The Oliver family boasts a spice. The palate feels a touch warm on the alcohol from the alcohol. McLaren Vale Cab is never a shy long lineage as winegrowers in McLaren Vale. Their front. It’s bone-dry and cinched by raspy tannins, wine, but this offers restraint and interest amid the label is headed up by the talented Corrina Wright, the fruit taking a back seat to lovely layers of tex- power. Drink now. California Beverage Co. —C.P. who does her family proud. The Shiraz is bursting ture and tannin. An excellent intro to South Aus- abv: 14.5% Price: $27 with personality and a sense of place. Rhubarb, sie Cabernet. Drink now–2028. Negociants USA– plum, mint, violet, chocolate and a meaty element Winebow. Best Buy. —C.P. Robert Oatley 2018 Signature Series Cab­ envelop the senses, while in the mouth it’s rich (this abv: 14% Price: $14 89 ernet Sauvignon (Margaret River). Like the is McLaren Vale, after all) but focused less on power previous vintage, this west coast Cab is initially and more on layers of flavor and texture, like grilled Yalumba 2014 The Menzies Cabernet Sauvi­ somewhat closed on the nose, highlighting tomato rhubarb and myriad herbs and spices. A multidi- 92 gnon (Coonawarra). This Coonawarra Cab leaf and green bell pepper notes. But as it warms, mensional Shiraz with ease and limpidity for drink- comes from a 45-year-old vineyard in the region’s more fruit floats to the fore. The palate is equally

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BUYINGGUIDE ing over the next few years. Epicurean Wines. Edi- Morambro Creek 2017 Mt. Monster Shiraz nuances. As it opens in the glass, soapy oak notes tors’ Choice. —C.P. 88 (Limestone Coast). From South Australia’s float to the fore. The palate is medium in weight and abv: 14.5% Price: $35 sunshine soaked Limestone Coast, this is a ripe, straightforward with its plush fruit and gentle tan- polished Shiraz that opens with notes of chocolate nins. This won’t offend, but it won’t excite either. Syrahmi 2017 Demi Shiraz (Heathcote). Vic- plum cake, pepper spice, beets and vanillin oak. Taub Family Selections. —C.P. 93 toria is chock-full of small, interesting cool There’s an astringency to the granular tannins, abv: 14% Price: $15 climate regions with scatterings of small, interest- which dries the mouth out, but the fruit is there, ing producers, and Adam Foster’s Syrahmi is one of too. A bit more personality than most in its price Paxton 2018 MV Made with Organic Grapes them. This Shiraz sees what feels like a fair bit of range. Kysela Père et Fils. —C.P. 86 Shiraz (McLaren Vale). A combo of all four whole bunch, which gives a lovely lift to the crushed abv: 14.5% Price: $18 of Paxton’s organically farmed fruit, this is a ripe, rose petal, cherry bitters and vanilla bean aromas, mouthfilling wine that’s pretty heavy-handed, the along with adding a stalky, sarsaparilla and licorice Nugan Family Estates 2018 Third Generation winemaking overpowering the personality of the root note. It’s medium bodied with a grip of raspy 88 Shiraz (South Eastern Australia). This is a fruit and site. Mealy, soapy oak notes underpin tannins, a sappy texture and the same spicy root ripe, full-bodied, straightforward Shiraz that offers plush fruit—berry and plum preserves, with vanilla tones as the nose. Power welded to grace, and an oodles of juicy fruit characters like cherry and blue- and cloves. In the mouth the jammy and slightly excellent example of cool climate Victorian Shiraz. berry set to a backdrop of dusty oak, baking spice sour fruit feels forced by acidity, but they’re nicely Hudson Wine Brokers. —C.P. and flower stalks. The palate also oozes plush fruit, tempered by grainy tannins. Cabernet Corporation. abv: 13.8% Price: $30 wound by savory, spicy tannins and a slight oak bit- —C.P. terness. Southern Starz, Inc. —C.P. abv: NA Price: $20 Battle of Bosworth 2017 Shiraz (McLaren abv: 13.5% Price: $17 90 Vale). This small, long-time organic winery Schild Estate 2016 Ben Schild Reserve Shi­ consistently produces wines of balance and varietal Rubus 2015 Shiraz (Barossa). This is a ripe, 86 raz (Barossa Valley). Succulent plums and character. The Shiraz is no exception, offering notes 88 aromatic Barossa Shiraz that is show- cherry vanilla cola take the lead on this Shiraz, with of bright plum and cherry, intertwined with black ing some bottle age and also quite a bit of sweet, softly spicy but prominent, polished oak at its heels. olive and scrubby Mediterranean herbs. Supple vanillin oak (although the wine is dry). The fruit is A rich, big-boned wine in a heavy bottle, there’s a fruit, savory tannins and lifted acidity tie the palate appealing, however, like a baked plum and raspberry bite of acidity and heat from the alcohol, along with together into one classic South Aussie Shiraz that’s tart with cloves and a slight meaty, floral note at the plush, fleshy fruit. USA Wine West. —C.P. crying out for roast lamb. California Beverage Co. back. The palate lacks some fruit weight to balance abv: 14.5% Price: $30 —C.P. the oak and acidic bite, but tannins are sappy and abv: 14.5% Price: $27 the powdery texture is interesting. Kysela Père et Greg Norman Estates 2018 Shiraz (Lime­ Fils. —C.P. 85 stone Coast). For full review see page 22. Norfolk Rise 2018 Shiraz (Mount Benson). abv: 14.5% Price: $26 abv: 14.5% Price: $17 90 Bright blueberry and blackberry fruits harmonize with cedar, cracked pepper and bak- Alpha Crucis 2017 Titan Shiraz (McLaren Jip Jip Rocks 2017 Shiraz (Padthaway). This ing spices, with an underlying graphite nuance. 87 Vale). This is a sturdy Shiraz that ticks the 85 wine is very reductive at the moment, over- Textural tannins and lifted acidity keep this out of South Aussie boxes without drawing too much laid by sweaty onion and menthol notes. Red and jamsville, and while the spicy oak notes are there, attention to itself. The nose is dense and ripe but black fruit, licorice and peppery spice lurk beneath. they’re far more tucked away than in the previous likable, with dried cherry, cocoa powder, baking The palate is on the thin and astringent side, with vintage. Variety and site expression take prece- spice and dry wood characters. The chalky tannins drying, woody tannins, but there’s a nice spice here dence. Little Peacock Imports. —C.P. are on the aggressive and drying side, but there’s as well. Best head for the 2018 vintage, which fares abv: 14.5% Price: $20 rich fruit here, too. Little Peacock Imports. —C.P. better. Kysela Père et Fils. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Robert Oatley 2018 Signature Series Shi­ 90 raz (McLaren Vale). Oatley’s reds are often Red Knot 2016 Signature Shiraz (McLaren Palmetto 2017 Shiraz (Barossa). This is quite austere and tightly wound. By comparison, 87 Vale). Unmistakably South Aussie, this Shi- 85 a straightforward Shiraz with ultraripe, this is an accessible bottling. Fresh plums and ber- raz offers oodles of ripe plums and berries backed sweet-smelling red berry and grape jelly notes, ries lead, backed by licorice and earthy, mineral by mocha, licorice, cedar and dried spices. The pal- along with an appealing yet synthetic character of nuances. Spicy oak is there but in the background. ate is granular in texture with an acidic bite, savory rose- and cedar-scented soap bar. The palate falls Savory, granular tannins create textural interest, tannins and a woodiness throughout. The alcohol somewhat flat, with heavy-set fruit, a bite of tan- and while this is full-bodied, restraint and balance feels a little warm. A straightforward drop for big nins and alcohol, and an abrupt finish. Lots of wine- are key to keeping muscles from flexing too overtly. red lovers. Saranty Imports. —C.P. making here but not much to show for it. AB & D Drink now–2025. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. abv: 14% Price: $20 LLC. —C.P. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $20 Shoofly 2017 Shiraz (South Australia). 87 A little reductive at first sniff, this wine The Lackey 2018 Shiraz (South Australia). Morambro Creek 2018 Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz eventually opens into a plush, ripe nose of cherry, 85 This is an ultrafruity Shiraz that borders 88 (Padthaway). This inky-hued Shiraz from chocolate, spice and sweet oak notes, along with an on confected with its plum and currant fruit. The South Australia’s small Padthaway region is a rich, undertone of something green and leafy. The palate soapy, cola-like oak is prominent, too, and there’s robust wine with curbside appeal. It offers plush is fairly well balanced, the jammy fruit ensconced in a spine of dried spice and sap. The palate is on the cherry chocolate, licorice, pepper and earthy spice muscular, grainy tannins. There’s a woodiness that thin side yet the fruit is plush, with chunky oak and aromas. Powerful tannins pinch on the tongue, but flares up on the finish, and the alcohol is a little on a slight warmth to the alcohol. Old Bridge Cellars. there’s acidity and juicy fruit to balance the scales. the warm side. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P. —C.P. A powerful wine that requires protein. Kysela Père abv: 14.5% Price: $14 abv: 14.5% Price: $15 et Fils. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Wakefield 2018 Promised Land Shiraz (South Thorn Clarke 2018 Milton Park Shiraz (South 87 Australia). This wine opens with lifted, 85 Australia). This is a jammy wine with what tangy red fruit backed by soft floral and savory spice feels like synthetic cherry and raspberry, melted

84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 chocolate, furniture polish and savory spice notes. graphite are all here, too. The texture in the mouth rather aggressive tannins that feel like sandpaper on There’s some bitterness and astringency on the pal- is silky, with a lift of acidity and well-­structured, the tongue. Those brambly, savory flavors are there, ate from oak-derived tannins and some heat from elegant tannins. It’s a big but well-balanced wine, too, flowing through to the finish. Drink now–2025. the alcohol amid the ripe red berry fruit. Over- expressive of site and style. Pacific Highway Wines Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P. worked and underwhelming. Kysela Père et Fils. & Spirits. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 —C.P. abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $14 Hugh Hamilton 2017 Dark Arts Black Ops Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards 2018 Corrina’s Cab­ 88 (McLaren Vale). This rich, muscular wine is Oxford Landing 2018 Shiraz (South Austra­ 91 ernet Sauvignon-Shiraz (McLaren Vale). From an unusual blend of Shiraz (60%) and the Georgian 83 lia). Pale in color, this watery Shiraz initially a long-standing McLaren Vale wine family, this red grape Saperavi (40%). It opens very herbaceously offers some bright cherry fruit but quickly slides blend is rare Down Under in that it’s a cofermented and with distinctive green veg notes of bell pepper into synthetic territory with a dish soap and oak field blend of Cabernet and Shiraz. Cabernet’s dis- and tomato leaf, along with berries, mint, pepper spice quality. The palate is thin and astringent, and tinctive characters shine on the nose: eucalyptus, and savory spice. The palate is big but not overtly the fruit falls rapidly flat, finishing on the sour side. olive brine, juicy berry fruit and some pencil lead. syrupy, although the alcohol is a bit warm and the Negociants USA–Winebow. —C.P. But Shiraz’s chocolaty richness is there, too. At fruit has a sweet and sour quality. Taut, chalky tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 first sip, there’s a silkiness and easygoing nature nins hold it all together. Big red lovers will find this that belies a serious graphite-like tannin structure. an intriguing drop. Hugh Hamilton Wines. —C.P. Watch this change in the glass over time. Sip with abv: 14.9% Price: $25 RED BLENDS roast beef on a chilly winter’s eve. Epicurean Wines. —C.P. Leogate Estate Wines 2016 Gatecrasher La Vinaceous 2017 Red Right Hand Shiraz-­ abv: 13.5% Price: $35 88 Perouse (Central Ranges). This Cabernet 92 Grenache-Tempranillo (Margaret River). A and Merlot blend offers cool climate restraint by blend of mostly Shiraz with some Grenache and Leogate Estate Wines 2015 The Gatecrasher whispering notes of raspberry, cherry, earthy spice, a touch of Tempranillo, this affordable west coast 90 Balmain (Central Ranges). Shiraz, Cabernet mint and graphite. There’s a tight cinch of aggres- wine is an excellent example of red with both power and Merlot make up the blend of this cool climate, sive tannins on the palate that somewhat over- and refreshment. It bounces with blueberries, cin- Victorian wine. It takes a while to open in the glass, whelm the fruit, but overall the regional character namon bark, cracked pepper, cloves, mocha and an but have patience. With time, some interesting aro- isn’t lost. Epicurean Wines. —C.P. earthy, mineral streak. There’s an ease and drink- mas float to the fore: tree sap, graphite, black lico- abv: 14.8% Price: $15 ability to the palate. It’s silky in texture, and the rice, plum and cherry vanilla cola. The juicy fruit on fruit is plush but not overtly ripe, wound by winter the palate is wound by powerful, leathery tannins. Bremerton 2018 Matilda Plains Cabernet-­ warming spices. Tannins are supportive but gen- This is an affordable wine in need of a slab of rare 87 Shiraz (Langhorne Creek). This is a little tle, derived from fruit and not oak. Craft+Estate– red meat. Epicurean Wines. Best Buy. —C.P. reductive when first opened, but with time it offers Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 a nose of ripe red and black berries, earthy spice, abv: 14.5% Price: $17 dried mint and ground pepper. The tannins are on Bremerton 2017 Tamblyn (Langhorne the chewy side, and the fruit sits heavily in the D’Arenberg 2017 The Stump Jump Red 89 Creek). This Langhorne Creek wine, a blend mouth. There’s a woody, slightly bitter finish. Epi- 91 (McLaren Vale). This is a strong bottling of of Cabernet, Shiraz, Malbec and Merlot, starts curean Wines. —C.P. this Cabernet-dominant red blend. There’s a slight with a slightly earthy funk, but also offers plenty abv: 14.5% Price: $15 funk at first, which quickly blows off to reveal aro- of plummy fruit, savory, earthy spice and graphite mas of mint, tomato stem, iodine, pencil shavings nuances. In the mouth it’s full bodied with a lift of Château Tanunda 2017 Grand Barossa and warm clay, all weaving through puckered, sun- juicy fruit and a spicy line of supportive tannins. A 87 (Barossa). This red blend is appealing but kissed fruit. The palate is big and broad yet raspy straightforward, likable wine for drinking over the ultraripe and on the warm side, alcohol-wise. There and a little on the warm side alcohol-wise. It avoids next few years. Epicurean Wines. —C.P. are aromas of stewed rhubarb and blackberry pie, being syrupy, however, thanks to a lifted line of abv: 14.5% Price: $22 vanilla, baking spices, ground pepper and bay leaf. acidity and a grip of sinewy, spicy tannins. Shows There’s a nice grip of tannins on the palate, but the variety and place expression at an affordable price RedHeads 2018 Coco Rôtie (South Austra­ fruit is a little flat and syrupy, lacking in vivacity point. Old Bridge Cellars. Best Buy. —C.P. 89 lia). Hence the play on words, this is aim- and texture. AUSA Pacific. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $13 ing to nod toward the Rhône stylistically, which abv: 15% Price: $23 it partially achieves in its emphasis on Christmas Gilbert 2018 Rouge (Mudgee). From heavy spice and earthy characters rather than ultraripe Tait Wines 2016 The Ball Buster 100% Basket 91 soils at high elevation in New South Wales, fruit. It’s still packs in the South Aussie sunshine, 87 Pressed Old Vines (Barossa Valley). Scraping this wine blends six varieties, including Sangio- though: mocha, plum and cherry with an underbelly 16% alcohol, this Shiraz-dominant red blend is, vese, Barbera, Pinot and Tempranillo. There’s a of mint, bay leaf and clove. Rich and full bodied but unsurprisingly, ripe and luscious, but with some bit of funk on the nose at first but it quickly blows with restraint, the palate is lined with granular, secondary notes that add interest. It opens with away to reveal lovely brambly berry fruit, plum, vio- spice-filled tannins. It’s a little woody on the fin- notes of plum cake with anise and ground white let, earthy spice and whispers of iodine and warm ish, but overall is an appealing winter warmer wine. pepper, backed by iodine and bay leaf notes. The stone. The palate is equally lovely. There’s power Trinchero Family Estates. —C.P. palate is big and warm, with muscular and high but restraint. Textural, with fine tannins, the wine abv: 14.5% Price: $20 textural, sandpaper-like tannins that feel a little gives the fruit and place room to shine. Little Pea- aggressive. Large helpings of plush fruit add a feel- cock Imports. —C.P. D’Arenberg 2016 The Ironstone Pressings ing of sweetness. A high octane, high alcohol wine abv: 14% Price: $19 88 G-S-M (McLaren Vale). This vintage of this that lives up to its name. Southern Starz, Inc. —C.P. quintessential South Aussie blend leans heavily on abv: 15.9% Price: $23 Robert Oatley 2018 Signature Series G-S-M Grenache, with 25% Shiraz and 5% Mourvèdre. 91 (McLaren Vale). Predominantly made from Brambly blackberry, olive, sap and toasty, vanillin Alpha Box & Dice 2018 Kit & Kaboodle Grenache and Shiraz, with 14% Mourvèdre, this oak notes lead on the rich, heady nose. Rustic and 86 (South Australia). Hence the name, this is a blend is ripe, juicy and chocolaty on the nose. Notes fairly straightforward for a premium-priced wine, it multiregional blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sau- of tobacco leaf, dried flowers, savory spice and has a rich palate dominated by muscular, drying and vignon, Montepulciano and Shiraz that seems to

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BUYINGGUIDE have a bit of everything: dried savory spices, earthy Senda Verde 2019 Albariño (Rías Baixas). A Dominio de Atauta 2016 Parada de Atauta funk, ripe berries and plums, licorice, roasted beet 89 light color along with aromas of apple, pine- 89 (Ribera del Duero). Earthy berry aromas and violet. The nose is intriguing, but the palate apple and wet stone open this zesty number braced along with toasted bread crust and charred scents doesn’t seem to knit it all together. The fruit feels by citric acid. Green apple and underripe pineapple lead to a big, tannic palate. Oak is prominent along- flat and a bit sweet, while the tannins are big and flavors finish with a crisp mineral note. Winesellers, side a touch of green herbs. Residual oak and grippy chewy, and the alcohol on the warm side. Perhaps Ltd. —M.S. tannins carry the finish. Aviva Vino. —M.S. the label—a donkey pulling a cart piled so high it’s abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 tipped over—is apt for this wine, which feels like it’s had so much thrown at it, it’s toppled over. AB Vieira de Plata 2019 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Conde de Siruela 2016 Crianza (Ribera del & D LLC. —C.P. 89 Apple, pineapple, stone fruit and melon 88 Duero). Spicy blackberry aromas are topped abv: 14.5% Price: $20 aromas are perfectly good but standard for Rías with a coating of vanilla oak and creaminess. On the Baixas Albariño. Mild acidity is just bright enough palate, this is fairly juicy and racy, with fresh acid- Paxton 2018 AAA Made With Organic Grapes to keep things fresh and balanced, while apple and ity. Standard RDD black fruit flavors are backed by 86 (McLaren Vale). Where the previous vintage peach flavors finish tight. Vinamericas Selections. milk chocolate and spice notes, while this doesn’t of this classic Aussie red blend showed a lighter —M.S. change, improve or evolve on a straight-line finish. side, this vintage doesn’t achieve it as successfully. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Alphapac A Marketing Company. —M.S. The fruit feels a touch cooked and jammy, back by abv: 14.5% Price: $30 subtle savory spices and peppery oak notes. Despite a lack of freshness, there is something appealing CAVA Emina 2016 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). A about it. In the mouth, the fruit sits on the tongue 88 warm, malty nose features maple, prune somewhat flatly and tannins are on the astringent Jaume Serra NV Brut (Cava). A yellow color and balsamic aromas. A widespread palate is tan- side. This lacks some harmony and also some site 87 and toasty aromas suggesting spent yeast nic, fleshy and a bit hot, while lively acidity is a and fruit expression. Cabernet Corporation. —C.P. and autolysis lead to a round palate with a shot of surprise that adds zest to dark plum and black cur- abv: 14% Price: $20 acidic freshness. Flavors of brioche, butterscotch, rant flavors. Woody spice notes and cheek-grabbing apple and lemon finish rich and toasty at first, then tannins control the finish. USA Wine West. —M.S. Schild Estate 2017 Grenache-Mourvèdre- more dry and bitter. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30 85 Shiraz (Barossa Valley). This blend is very abv: 11.5% Price: $19 reductive to start, and it’s hard to get past the sweaty cabbage notes. It does open somewhat with Castillo Rocio NV Gran Brut (Cava). Generic RIOJA time, offering a sweet and sour note, along with 86 white fruit aromas control the nose, while ripe plum, blueberry, chocolate and white pepper, this brut is driven by fresh acidity. Standard nec- La Rioja Alta 2012 Viña Arana Gran Reserva backed by vanillin oak. The palate is rich and a bit tarine and apple cider flavors give way to wheaty, 94 (Rioja). Dry oak aromas are the greeting, flat, wanting for more freshness. There’s a grip of slightly mealy notes on a short finish. Hammeken and this smells earthy and cheesy in a classical way; nicely textured, spicy tannins, but overall there’s a Cellars USA. —M.S. along with that, this offers ripe scents of raisiny lot of winemaking here without a lot of reward. USA abv: 11.5% Price: $17 berry fruits and vanilla. A full palate is rich while Wine West. —C.P. holding on to its balance. Flavors of balsamic plum, abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Felix Solis NV Prospero Grand Selection Rosé berry fruits and tobacco finish bold more than fine 86 (Spain). Simple fresh-fruit aromas lead to and elegant. Drink through 2032. Skurnik Wines, a palate that’s reactive and foamy but also lean and Inc. Cellar Selection. —M.S. SPAIN acidic. Lemon-lime and green-apple flavors finish abv: 13.5% Price: $48 with a mix of yeastiness and citrus notes. Félix Solís RÍAS BAIXAS Avantis USA, Inc. —M.S. Baigorri 2010 Reserva (Rioja). Spicy dark- abv: 11% Price: $12 93 berry aromas come with complex side notes Granbazán 2019 Etiqueta Verde Albariño of tobacco and licorice root. A healthy palate is 91 (Rías Baixas). Apple and other white fruit Mas Fi NV Brut Mètode Tradicional (Cava). medium rich and slightly chocolaty, with balsamic aromas come with a touch of lanolin, while this 86 Light white fruit aromas of pear, apple and berry, savory herb and spice flavors. A smooth finish is fresh yet rounded on the palate. Nice flavors of clover lead to a foamy palate. Dry flavors of seltzer, echoes back to tobacco. Drink through 2024. Guara- golden apple, white stone fruits and sea salt finish soda cracker and peach are dilute in front of a light- chi Wine Partners. —M.S. with good length. Drink this rock-solid Albariño weight finish. Winesellers, Ltd.Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 through 2021. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $11 abv: 13% Price: $18 La Rioja Alta 2010 Viña Ardanza Reserva 93 (Rioja). A rusty color and classic Ardanza Terras Gauda 2019 Abadía de San Campio RIBERA DEL DUERO aromas of dry spice, fallen leaves, charred beef, 90 Albariño (Rías Baixas). For full review see tobacco and herbs announce a proprietary Rioja. page 21. Legaris 2016 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). For Typical raciness and blazing acidity drive the palate, abv: 12.5% Price: $20 91 full review see page 17. while spicy red berry and currant flavors are backed abv: 15% Price: $26 by dry oak. Only on the finish does this soften, with Bodegas Eidosela 2019 Ethereo Albariño a hint of raisin coming out. Drink now through 89 (Rías Baixas). Apple and peach aromas Loess 2016 Inspiration (Ribera del Duero). 2028. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —M.S. smell right for Spanish Albariño, while this is 90 Subdued black plum and cassis aromas are abv: 13.5% Price: $38 rounded and bounces with ease across the palate. jammy and show a whiff of cheesy oak. The palate Melon, stone fruit and light tropical fruit flavors is a touch fiery and prickly, but airing is the tonic Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2016 Royal Cri­ close out on a fit finish. Drink now. Vinamericas it needs. Standard RDD flavors of black fruits, spice 92 anza (Rioja). Ripe, spicy black cherry and Selections. —M.S. and toasty oak finish steady, with no major changes other black fruit aromas are aggressive but not abv: 12.5% Price: $19 from before. Solstars. —M.S. unrestrained. This crianza sports a healthy body abv: 14.5% Price: $17 driven by bold fruit and punchy acidity. Fully ripe berry and black plum flavors finish with mild oak

86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 notes that suggest chocolate. This is steady like a with balsamic richness precede a creamy palate Nubori 2016 Edición Limitada Crianza metronome and very well balanced. Drink through that starts out bullish but eases with airing. Savory 90 (Rioja). For full review see page 20. 2028. W. Direct. —M.S. tomato and berry fruit flavors are painted with dry abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $24 oak that creates a cocoa-like note. An easy finish says ready to drink. Wineco Corp. —M.S. Bodegas Valdemar 2016 Conde Valdemar Bodegas Riojanas 2016 Monte Real Reserva abv: 13.5% Price: $35 89 Crianza (Rioja). Soft berry aromas are mel- 92 (Rioja). Ripe berry, vanilla and dried cheese low but a touch flat and overripe. A dense palate aromas are moderately complex and true to tradi- Medievo 2014 Reserva (Rioja). Jammy berry feels a bit heavy, while ripe, toasty black fruit fla- tional Rioja. A full, fleshy palate is balanced by red 91 aromas are slightly candied and fluffy, while vors lead to a spicy finish that’s plump and weighty. fruit acidity, while plum, berry and oak flavors are this is plump on the palate, packed with fruit and Drink now. Cru Selections —M.S. ripe to the point that you can find a touch of raisin balanced by mellow tannins. Deep plum and berry abv: 13.5% Price: $20 if you dig deep. A warm, fully ripe finish is par for flavors show a fair amount of spicy oak, while this the course. Drink through 2024. Bodegas Riojanas. is full and a touch chocolaty on the finish. Drink Latitud 42 2010 Reserva (Rioja). Herbal red —M.S. through 2024. All Star Wine Imports, LLC. —M.S. 89 berry aromas are spicy and hint at desert abv: 14% Price: $24 abv: 13.5% Price: $21 herbs. Creamy oak on the palate means this feels a bit thick, while spicy oak and plum flavors finish Bodegas Riojanas 2016 Viña Albina Reserva Sierra Cantabria 2016 Crianza (Rioja). with clove and other baking spice notes. Gabriel 92 (Rioja). Mild reduction on the nose leaves 91 Smooth, ripe black fruit aromas are earthy Wilson Selections. —M.S. room for earthy plum and berry scents as well as and a touch spicy, but mostly just comfortable and abv: 13.5% Price: $20 floral aromas. This reserva from a great vintage is clean. On the palate, this crianza narrows a bit and lively and juicy on the palate, with rubbing tannins displays a grabby, choppy side. Flavors of spicy plum Nubori 2016 Crianza (Rioja). Jammy berry that should soften in short order. Cherry, cassis and and berry fruits are dusted with cocoa hints, while 89 aromas come with a candied note of rasp- wood spice flavors finish dry and firm, with residual this is dry and mildly tannic on the finish. Drink berry. Like the nose, this feels jammy and a touch red fruit notes. Drink through 2025. Bodegas Rio- through 2025. Jorge Ordóñez Selections. —M.S. sticky. Ultraripe berry flavors push toward raisiny, janas. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 while this is mild on a finish without much charge abv: 13.5% Price: $23 to it. Drink now. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2014 Rioja Bor­ abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Bodegas Riojanas 2012 Monte Real Gran 90 dón Reserva (Rioja). Plum and berry aro- 92 Reserva (Rioja). Balsamic berry fruit aro- mas meld with oak spices on the nose. Bright acidity Viña Otano 2014 Reserva (Rioja). Leafy mas are appropriate for a warm year like 2012. creates lift on the palate, with spicy black fruit and 89 plum and berry aromas come with inte- This is bullish and tannic, and definitely riper than toasty oak flavors filling it out. Drink now through grated oak scents. This is hard driving on the palate, most vintages of Monte Real gran reserva. Plum and 2030. W. Direct. —M.S. with rough tannins that draw everything inward. prune flavors stay giant on a tannic finish. Drink abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Black plum and black tea flavors wind down with through 2026. Bodegas Riojanas. —M.S. aggression on a hard finish. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $47 Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2014 Royal abv: 14% Price: $23 90 Reserva (Rioja). Plum and berry aromas fill Campillo 2009 Gran Reserva (Rioja). Black out the nose on this rugged reserva from a marginal Lealtanza 2012 Club Reserva (Rioja). Ripe, 92 plum and cassis aromas are ripe but mono- vintage. The palate is quite lifted in acidity, with 88 earthy black fruit aromas come with notes tone. On the palate, this warm-vintage gran reserva plum and herbal berry flavors filling it out. Drink of cumin, stewed plum and campfire smoke. The feels lush and fruity, but vaguely defined. Black through 2026. W. Direct. —M.S. palate on this is full and deep, but not well plotted. plum, oak and balsamic reduction are the flavor abv: 14% Price: $34 Chocolaty oak and smoke partially cover green notes ingredients, while this feels smooth, pulpy and in the fruit, while this is fierce on a finish stacked easygoing on the finish. Pacific Highway Wines & Bodegas Riojanas 2012 Viña Albina Gran with smoldering oak and tannins. Authentic Wine Spirits. —M.S. 90 Reserva (Rioja). A ripe nose settles with Selections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 floral berry, olive and herbal aromas. Turbocharged abv: 14% Price: $47 acidity is a dominant factor on the palate, with fla- Marqués de Cáceres 2012 Gran Reserva vors of red fruit, oak and spice. Drink now–2025. 92 (Rioja). A supple nose is loaded with ripe Bodegas Riojanas. —M.S. OTHER RED WINES black-fruit aromas that accurately reflect a warm abv: 13.5% Price: $45 vintage. A thick palate is tannic and on the heavy Arínzano 2016 Hacienda de Arínzano Tem­ side, again reflective of the year. Blackberry, plum Launa 2016 Crianza (Rioja). Earthy cherry, 91 pranillo (Pago de Arínzano). Ripe berry aro- and toast flavors remain on stage through a dry fin- 90 plum and berry aromas come with a floral mas are matched by oak-based notes of coffee and ish with simmering tannins. Drink through 2028. note and a hint of orange peel. A prodding palate is chocolate. An intense palate brings power but also Vineyard Brands. —M.S. far from shy, while this crianza tastes of plum and balance, while this Pago-specific Tempranillo tastes abv: 14.5% Price: $40 berry fruits and oak-based vanilla. Oak remains out of toasty berry, cassis, dark chocolate and vanilla. front on a finish that’s fresh and lifted. Aviva Vino. A rich and heady finish is the conclusion. Drink Finca Nueva 2010 Reserva (Rioja). Lightly —M.S. through 2023. Stoli Group USA. —M.S. 91 stewed aromas of ripe berry fruits and prune abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 are a bit dull, while this feels plump, dense and anchored by scratchy tannins. Baked berry flavors Marqués de Cáceres 2016 Crianza (Rioja). Bodegas Aragonesas 2018 Don Ramón transition to a chocolaty finish with savory black 90 Gritty, earthy berry aromas are not exuber- 89 (Campo de Borja). Lean red fruit aromas plum and prune notes. Drink through 2022. Trin- ant but do the job of getting you primed to drink are fit and clean while emitting citric notes. This chero Family Estates. —M.S. this solid crianza from an excellent vintage in Rioja. blend of 75% Garnacha and 25% Tempranillo feels abv: 14% Price: $30 An edgy palate is full and features rubbing tannins, healthy and fresh, but not overly full. Plum and cur- while roasted berry and plum flavors finish in down rant flavors hold form on a comfortable finish. For Marqués del Atrio 2014 Finca El Rubio (Rioja). the middle fashion. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. 91 Traditional Rioja aromas of leafy berry fruits abv: 14.5% Price: $20

WINEMAG.COM | 87

BUYINGGUIDE everyday red wine, this is hard to beat. Scoperta Felix Solis 2018 FYI Red Blend (Spain). Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2018 Roche Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. 86 Leathery berry aromas include an animal 93 Roulée Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Damask abv: 13% Price: $10 note and the suggestion of hot pavement. The blend rose, orange peel and pith and juicy peach make for is 60% Tempranillo and 20% each Cabernet Sau- an attractive combination on the nose of this wine. Bodegas Vegalfaro 2018 Rebel.lia Garnacha- vignon and Garnacha. On the palate, this is soft and The palate has gentle sweetness that is countered 88 Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). Leather and jammy. Raspberry and other berry flavors are a bit by pleasant, phenolic bitterness that lends shape to fiery blackberry and blueberry aromas open this candied and sweet, while this tastes and feels ripe this off-dry, spicy, mellow wine. Yes it is generous, blend of Garnacha Tintorera and Tempranillo. Fresh on the finish. Félix Solís Avantis USA, Inc.Best Buy. but all that zesty pithiness makes the wine intrigu- acidity makes for a tight and pulling palate, while —M.S. ing. The off-dry finish is textured. Kobrand. —A.K. dark berry, black plum and spice flavors finish with abv: 14% Price: $11 abv: 14.5% Price: $52 good length. Wine Universe Corp. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Frey-Sohler 2015 Frankstein Grand Cru ALSACE 93 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Ethereal citrus Bodem 2018 Las Margas Sierra de Algairén lift constitutes this wine’s nose, conveying not only 88 Garnacha (Cariñena). Lightly medicinal GEWURZTRAMINER lemon oil but the fresher, more vivid herbal note of aromas of saucy berry fruits and green herbs set up lemon balm. The medium-sweet palate also rings a jangly palate with ripeness and weight offset by Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2018 Clos Winds­ with citric freshness and wraps up juicy, ripe peach- smacking acidity. Red berry flavors are a touch can- 95 buhl Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Hints of gun- iness in its lively aroma. Concentration, warmth died as well as lightly green and minty in front of an powder and flint mix with a subtle but sonorous and texture become apparent on the rich finish, but herbal finish. Axial Vinos USA. —M.S. tone of Damask rose on the nose of this wine. The the sense of freshness lasts. Kindred Vines. —A.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $14 palate brings a much brighter, lemony note of sunny abv: 13% Price: $33 peach ripeness, suggesting the juiciness of peach Tintoralba 2018 Roble Syrah-Garnacha compote. The purity of flavor is highlighted by lem- Kirrenbourg SAS 2018 Terroir S Gewurztra­ 88 (Almansa). Pancetta, blackberry and cassis ony accents that frame this generous, nectar-like 93 miner (Alsace). In this wine, rounded notes aromas open an earthy, roasted nose with chocolaty wine. Drink 2025–2050. Kobrand. —A.K. of peach compote have a slight overtone of rose pet- notes. This blend of Syrah and Garnacha Tintorera abv: 13% Price: $99 als and a spicier hint of grapefruit peel. Each fruit is bold but juicy on the palate due to lively acidity. comes to the fore on the generous palate that drips Flavors of bacon and berry fruits finish with man- Domaine Weinbach 2018 Cuvée Laurence with richness and the slightest trace of sweetness. ageable heat. Vintage Wines Inc. —M.S. 94 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Damask rose and This is powerful and rounded but countered by a abv: 13% Price: $14 crushed elder leaf make for a subtle yet aromatic fine, slightly bitter citrus pithiness and spicy zest. topnote on the nose of this wine. The palate comes Drink 2025–2035. Vintage Wine Marketing. —A.K. Angosto 2018 Tinto (Valencia). This kitchen in with gentle, medium sweetness that accentuates abv: 14.5% Price: $48 87 sink red blend includes equal parts Cab peachy juiciness at the core and rounds things out Franc, Garnacha Tintorera, Graciano, Malbec and with smooth, candied-lemon flavor. Freshness bal- Marc Kreydenweiss 2018 Kritt Gewurztra­ Syrah. The nose is dark and smoky, but also a touch ances this harmonious wine with an endless, off-dry 93 miner (Alsace). A flinty touch of reduction herbal. A medium-bodied palate is edgy and acidic, finish. Drink 2025–2040. Vineyard Brands. —A.K. clings to faint rose-petal notions on the nose of this while this tastes of wild berry fruits, black plum abv: 14% Price: $50 wine. The palate comes in with distinct medium and dark spices prior to a short finish that falls flat. sweetness that, together with the lemon freshness, Drink now. Misa Imports. —M.S. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2018 Roche Cal­ creates a juicy, peachy core. Lemony brightness abv: 14.1% Price: $18 94 caire Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The nose on pulls the entire wine into focus on the medium- this wine conveys both dried and fresh lemon peel, sweet finish. All you need now is a superior stinky Bodega Virgen de la Sierra 2018 OGV Garna­ some smoky reduction and wet chalk. On the palate, cheese. AP Wine Imports. —A.K. 87 cha (Calatayud). A dark burgundy color and cool concentration homes in on a ripe but tingling abv: 13.5% Price: $41 a nose with reduced notes of black olive, asphalt notion of lemon zest. Earthiness anchors this all and black plum lead to an edgy palate with grating along with lemon notes that offer vivid freshness. Willm 2016 Clos Gaensbroennel Kirchberg acidity. Plum, wild berry and herbal flavors are a bit Stony, chalky lemony purity seems to radiate and 93 de Barr Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). soapy, while this is voluminous but unrefined on the real energy propels this powerful wine forward. Rich and rounded notes of peach jam show on this finish. Misa Imports. —M.S. The finish is bone dry and long. Drink 2025–2050. wine’s open nose and almost have a honeyed edge. abv: 14% Price: $23 Kobrand. —A.K. The palate offers the same rounded richness and abv: 13% Price: $52 a medium sweetness that boosts those peach and Grandes Vinos y Viñedos 2018 El Circo Acró­ honey notes, set against a textured backdrop of hon- 87 bato Garnacha (Cariñena). Berry aromas are Trimbach 2013 Cuvée des Seigneurs de eycomb and chalk. It’s an intense wine of great con- slightly reduced at first, then more fresh and open. 94 Ribeaupierre Gewurztraminer (Alsace). For centration. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —A.K. This Garnacha feels chunky and tastes of ripe berry full review see page 7. abv: 13% Price: $29 fruits and cocoa powder. A mild finish confirms that abv: 13.5% Price: $50 this is a good candidate for everyday drinking. Palm Cave de Ribeauvillé 2017 Altenberg de Ber­ Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S. Domaine Marcel Deiss 2016 Gewurztraminer 92 gheim Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). abv: 13.5% Price: $10 93 (Alsace). Notes of Damask rose and peach Clear blossom honey and Mirabelle compote are compote on the nose of this wine are drenched in the chief aromas on this wine’s vivid nose. Both Bodegas Aragonesas 2018 Crucillón Gre­ hints of blossom honey. Rounded, medium sweet- the notions get more intense as they are boosted by 86 nache-Tempranillo (Campo de Borja). Wiry, ness on the palate intensifies the peachiness, giv- the palate’s luscious sweetness, which tips the fruit dusty currant and raspberry aromas lead to a fresh ing a smooth, rich mouthfeel. An attractive edge of into the candied spectrum. Yet flavors remain pris- but lean palate without much depth or cushion. grapefruit zest counters this richness with welcome tine and get some backing from chalk and beeswax. Raspberry, strawberry and currant flavors quickly bitterness. Becky Wasserman Selections. —A.K. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. fade on a short finish. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Cave du Roi Dagobert 2017 Altenberg-Berg­ let this come into its own. Drink 2025–2035. Taub nose of this wine carries peach and Mirabelle. The 92 bieten Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Family Selections. —A.K. palate reveals a gentle, bright lemon note that man- This wine’s subtle nose suggests apricot compote, abv: 14.5% Price: $30 ages to highlight the Mirabelle and peach subtlety with a hint of lemon. Similar restrained flavors of the just-off-dry palate. A wonderful rendition of characterize the palate, even though its rounded, Allimant-Laugner 2018 Praelatenberg Grand this variety, the wine has a lasting, refined finish. medium sweetness helps those juicy stone-fruit 91 Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Notions of pear Banville Wine Merchants. —A.K. notes shine. The finish adds concentrated zestiness and peach compote create a mellow aroma. The pal- abv: 14% Price: $28 and just a little alcoholic heat, finishing with fruity ate of this wine falls right into step and presents purity. Votto Vines Importing. —A.K. a rich, medium-sweet mellowness of baked, creamy Ruhlmann 2018 Frankstein Grand Cru Gewurz­ abv: 13.5% Price: $60 fruit on a flowing, balanced body. Pure fruit flavors 91 traminer (Alsace). Notes of ripe peach are are long, boosted by sweetness. Vigneron Imports. vivid and inviting on this wine’s fresh nose, accented Domaine Pfister 2017 Lenz Gewurztraminer —A.K. by hints of iron oxide and lemon. The palate adds 92 (Alsace). Heady Damask rose notes almost abv: 13.5% Price: $27 rounded, honeyed richness to a concentrated, warm addle the senses on the intense nose of this wine. body that is guided by a bitter, phenolic edge. Lovely The palate tones this down with texture and fresh- Domaine Bott-Geyl 2018 Les Éléments peach aromas resurface on the finish. BBR Imports. ness, presenting a chalky backdrop with concen- 91 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Notes of Damask —A.K. trated lemon notes that counter the richness on the rose are heady on the nose of this wine. Underlying abv: 13.5% Price: $35 nose and lend elegance. The off-dry finish is appe- peach and tangerine come out with full force on the tizing and long. Vintage ’59 Imports. —A.K. just-off-dry palate. They are accompanied by fresh Andre Lorentz 2016 Clos Zisser Monopole abv: 13.5% Price: $31 lemon that adds welcome liveliness to this scented, 90 Kirchberg de Barr Grand Cru Gewurztraminer balanced wine. David Bowler Wine. —A.K. (Alsace). Honeysuckle and rose form the floral Domaine Weinbach 2018 Gewurztraminer abv: 14% Price: $35 aroma of this wine, dancing above peachy ripeness. 92 (Alsace). Honeysuckle plus tangerine fruit On the palate these notions give way to a bold dis- and peel show on the nose of this concentrated, Domaine Saint-Rémy 2016 Ehrhart Hengst play of peach with a bitter pith edge, channeling citrus-scented wine. Gentle sweetness adds juicy 91 Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Subtle medium sweetness on an almost viscous body. This peach to the midpalate. The off-dry finish is beau- flashes of peach burst above the blossom-honey wine is concentrated and full on. Advantage Inter- tifully balanced and zesty. Vineyard Brands. —A.K. nose of this wine. Uniting peach and honey in a national. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $29 rounded fashion, the palate gives just a tiny edge of abv: 14% Price: $NA honeycomb bitterness to counter that juicy, mellow Dopff & Irion 2018 Sporen Grand Cru Gewurz­ flow. The delicacy of the aromas stays throughout Domaine Charles Baur 2018 Fronenberg 92 traminer (Alsace). Ripe lemon freshness and make for a supersmooth finish. Fine Vines. 90 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). A subtle hint of frames ripe peach notes on this wine’s open nose. —A.K. Damask rose has a bit of creaminess on the nose of The palate has ease and flow, boosted by gentle abv: 13% Price: $32 this wine. The palate shows luscious but textured sweetness and guided by a phenolic edge of pleas- sweetness, rich with concentrated notes of peach ant, pithy bitterness. There is concentration and Domaine Viticole de la Ville de Colmar 2019 compote. A lovely bitter-almond edge accents the richness but also balance. The finish is long and 91 Pfersigberg Grand Cru Gewurztraminer medium-sweet finish. Best Case Wines. —A.K. mouthwatering. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —A.K. (Alsace). Hints of earth and lemon cling to Mira- abv: 14% Price: $31 abv: 13.5% Price: $35 belle notes on the nose of this wine that suggests both fresh fruit and jam. The concentrated, off-dry Domaine Charles Frey 2019 Collines de Gran­ Emile Beyer 2018 Eguisheim Gewurztraminer palate has a vein of freshness that lends verve. A 90 ite Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Gentle hon- 92 (Alsace). The nose of this wine is expres- phenolic edge of pithiness also lends direction to eysuckle accompanies fresh lemon ripeness on the sive with rose petal and blossom honey. Rounded this balanced wine. Advantage International. —A.K. nose of this wine. The palate comes in with ease and with residual sweetness, the palate carries those abv: 14% Price: $37 rich fruit, especially juicy peach, but also precision heady rose notes along with mandarin juiciness. and brightness. Lemon brightness returns on the That sweet citrus freshness creates balance on Frey-Sohler 2017 Frankstein Grand Cru Gewurz­ off-dry finish. BNP Distributing. —A.K. this medium-sweet, balanced wine. Michael Corso 91 traminer (Alsace). Rich notes of baked pear abv: 13% Price: $40 Selections. —A.K. on this wine’s nose come with touches of vanilla abv: 13.5% Price: $30 and lemon. The mellow, rounded palate mirrors Domaine Fernand Engel 2017 Réserve these flavors and presents them with concentrated 90 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). A bitter hint La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2018 richness. This wine is intense and medium-sweet, of licorice intrigues on the nose of this wine, sur- 92 Zinnkoepfle Grand Cru Gewurztraminer with emphasis on fruit and expression. Kindred rounded by honey and peach. The palate gives full (Alsace). The luscious headiness of peach compote Vines. —A.K. rein to the peach fruit, adding rounded, gentle is vivid on this wine’s nose. Equally vibrant notes abv: 14% Price: $33 sweetness to boost the ripe flavors. Zestiness lends of fresh peach and lemon on the palate present a balance and freshness to the medium-dry finish. concentrated picture of ripe, intense fruit. All is Kirrenbourg SAS 2018 Roche Granitique Grape Expectations (CA). —A.K. boosted by medium sweetness and zesty freshness. 91 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Intense Damask abv: 13.5% Price: $29 A slightly phenolic texture provides a fitting back- rose perfume is toned down by pithy tangerine peel drop for all this generosity. DHI Selections. —A.K. on the nose of this wine. Gentle sweetness on the Domaine François Schmitt 2018 Bollen­ abv: 13.5% Price: $35 nose enhances peachy juiciness at the core, coun- 90 berg Cuvée Marie-France Gewurztraminer tered by slightly bitter but pleasant notes of apple (Alsace). Subtle rose-petal richness and warmth Trimbach 2018 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). pip. Rounded, rich and off dry, the wine will benefit plays on the nose of this wine. The palate is rounded 92 Both flinty reduction and rose notes play on from bottle age. Drink 2025–2035. Vintage Wine with juicy peach, boosted by gentle sweetness that the nose. The palate comes in with concentration Marketing. —A.K. is countered by orange freshness. Zestiness and and a pithy, phenolic texture that lends structure abv: 15% Price: $33 pith lend texture to the midpalate and the medium- and backbone to this rich, rounded, almost oily but sweet, balanced finish. Riahi Selections. —A.K. dry wine. Pleasant citrus-pith bitterness sits well Leon Beyer 2018 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). abv: 13.5% Price: $33 with the bold, warm but dry generosity. It’s best to 91 Something creamy on the rose-oil-scented

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Domaine Gérard Neumeyer 2016 Taureau sweetness. On the finish the wine is fresh, intense richness. This wine is generous, concentrated and 90 Stierkopf Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Notes and medium dry. Maisons Marques & Domaines bold. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.K. of earthiness, peach and rhubarb are subtle on the USA. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $47 nose of this wine. Soft roundness on the palate abv: 13.5% Price: $28 shimmers with those fresh rhubarb notes, present- René Muré 2018 Orchidées Sauvages ing a zesty counterpoint to the subtle sweetness of Dopff Au Moulin 2017 Brand Crand Cru 90 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Honeysuckle the fruit. The finish is bright, fresh and medium- 90 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Notes of baked and peach on the nose of this wine are joined by a dry, with real texture and expression. Vin43. —A.K. pear with a hint of peach fill this wine’s nose with vivid streak of lychee. The palate tones the florals abv: 13.5% Price: $26 mellow richness. The palate boosts these fruit notes down and focuses on luscious peach flesh instead. with its medium sweetness, while a frame of bitter Medium sweetness intensifies the fruitiness while Domaine Gresser 2018 Kritt Gewurztraminer phenolics counterpoints the baked-fruit richness. mandarin zestiness counters the richness. A pleas- 90 (Alsace). Notes of Damask rose are tender The finish is bold and warm. Multiple U.S. import- ant bitter note intensifies the finish. Lovely now, the but distinct on the nose of this wine, enriched by ers. —A.K. wine is sure to evolve. Drink by 2030. Gargouille lovely peachiness. The palate is framed by a phe- abv: 14% Price: $38 Collection. —A.K. nolic richness that recalls beeswax, supporting the abv: 13.5% Price: $22 gentle freshness that highlights more rose aromas. Emile Beyer 2018 Tradition Gewurztraminer It finishes off dry and fresh. Wine Symphony, Inc. 90 (Alsace). Aromas of ripe, yellow pear are Sick-Dreyer 2016 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). —A.K. distinct on the nose of this wine. They become even 90 Hints of rose and orange peel can be made abv: 13.5% Price: $44 more expressive on the rounded palate where lovely out on the restrained nose of this wine. Gentle phenolic bitterness lends direction and drive along- sweetness on the palate highlights yellow-plum Domaine Jean Sipp 2018 Cuvée Particulière side bright freshness. The finish is long and off dry. juiciness at the core, balanced by subtle freshness 90 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Subtle notes of Michael Corso Selections. —A.K. and a slightly pithy texture. The finish is off dry to peach compote are rich and rounded on the nose of abv: 14% Price: $22 medium dry and echoes long. Marlin Imports. —A.K. this wine. Mandarin juiciness and a gentle sweet- abv: 13% Price: $24 ness on the palate boosts both peach and citrus. The François Baur 2016 Herrenweg Gewurztra­ lasting finish is aromatic, balanced and medium- 90 miner (Alsace). Honeysuckle and rose vie Sipp Mack 2016 Vieilles Vignes Gewurztra­ sweet. Vin de Garde Wines. —A.K. for attention on the nose of this wine. They also 90 miner (Alsace). On the nose of this wine, abv: 14% Price: $17 hover above the medium-sweet palate where peach- a subdued tone of rose has a top note of geranium iness offers a notion of candied ginger. Spicy and leaf. Aromatic mandarin peel shows on the palate. Domaine Jean Sipp 2017 Vieilles Vignes rich, the wine has a pleasantly bitter, lasting finish. Gentle sweetness rounds out the peachy fruit, pro- 90 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Notes of peach Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. viding textured balance. The finish is off dry and skin and rose petal make for a perfumed nose on abv: 13% Price: $21 zesty. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. —A.K. this wine. The palate comes in with gentle, rounded abv: 12.5% Price: $32 sweetness that transforms the fresh peach fruit on Hugel 2017 Classic Gewurztraminer (Alsace). the nose into compote richness. Citrus pithiness 90 A subtle veil of Damask rose encloses Wunsch & Mann 2017 Cuvée Saint Rémy sets a balancing accent on the medium-sweet fin- peachiness on the nose of this wine. Although the 90 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The subtle nose ish. Vin de Garde Wines. Best Buy. —A.K. palate reveals power and warmth, it cloaks it in sub- on this wine reveals nothing but gentle yeasti- abv: 14% Price: $15 tle rose notes. The finish is just about dry. It’s lovely ness. With more air, glimpses of rose petal peek and subtle. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. through. The palate of this soft, pliable wine offers Domaine Schoffit 2018 Lieu-dit Harth abv: 14% Price: $30 the slightly honeyed sweetness of peach and yellow 90 Tradition Cuvée Caroline Gewurztraminer plum. It finishes with a pithy, zesty edge of medium- (Alsace). Jasmine and narcissus cast a perfumed Joseph Scharsch 2018 Gewurztraminer sweet orange. Schneider’s of Capitol Hill. —A.K. spell on the intense nose of this wine. Focused on 90 (Alsace). A gentle note of jasmine hov- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 peach compote, the palate presents sweetness shot ers over ripe pear fruit on the nose of this wine. through with freshness. This wine is sweet but also The palate offers gentle sweetness that envelopes Armand Hurst 2018 Baronne Tonia de Turck­ balanced, with a long, perfumed echo. Weygandt- a core of juicy peach and pear, radiating richness. 89 heim Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Blossom Metzler. —A.K. Apple-like freshness tones this down and leads to a honey and honeysuckle notes create sweet scented- abv: 14% Price: $24 medium-dry, balanced finish. Wine Symphony, Inc. ness on the nose of this wine. The palate delivers —A.K. a perfumed, honeyed note of Mirabelle fruit that is Domaine Viticole de la Ville de Colmar 2017 abv: 13.5% Price: $35 ripe, generous and rounded. An edge of licorice bit- 90 Hengst Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). terness counters richness on the generous medium- Aromas of white summer blossom dance around Paul Blanck 2018 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). sweet finish. Amphorium LLC. —A.K. peach to create a charming nose in this wine. This 90 Honeysuckle notes highlight the mandarin abv: 14% Price: $NA floral delicacy moves aside on the palate to give and peach nose on this wine. The palate is con- full rein to the concentrated, medium-sweet force centrated with medium-sweet peachiness, pithy Cave de Cleebourg 2017 Grande Réserve of candied peach and blossom honey. Pithy bitter- concentration and a lovely edge of citrus-peel bit- 89 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Richness is ness rather than freshness counters and frames the terness. Citrus notions provide lovely balance to apparent from the first whiff of this wine, domi- generosity with its textural force. Advantage Inter- the richness and lead to a medium-sweet finish. nated by lush rose oil and peach compote notes. national. —A.K. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. The palate adds lemon freshness and a pithy edge abv: 12.5% Price: $37 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 to frame the concentrated fruit. On the finish the wine is off dry, juicy and appetizing. Premier Sell- Domaines Schlumberger 2018 Les Princes Pierre Sparr 2018 Mambourg Grand Cru ers. —A.K. 90 Abbé Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Honey- 90 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Concentrated abv: 13% Price: $16 suckle, peach and rose petal make for a perfumed peach, almost with an ethereal headiness, makes for nose on this wine. The palate carries these notions an intense nose on this wine. The palate frames the Cave de Hunawihr 2018 Gewurztraminer on a creamy, rounded body where they are joined peachy, medium-sweet richness with a hit of bitter 89 (Alsace). A suggestion of freshly cut Golden by welcome freshness and flavor-enhancing, gentle pith and overtones of honeycomb that counter the Delicious opens the nose on this wine. Juicy ripe-

90 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 ness also shows on the palate, where a rich, round rich, coming together on the medium-sweet finish. together, but the finish is both exquisitely rich and mouthfeel is scented like rose oil. Freshness returns Chemin Des Vins. —A.K. dry. Drink 2021–2025. F & R Wine Imports. —A.K. on the medium-sweet finish. Solstars. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $24 abv: 13% Price: $20 Domaine G. Metz 2018 Vieilles Vignes Koenig Vins Alsace 2018 Gewurztraminer Domaine Ansen 2017 Westhoffen Gewurz­ 89 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The subtle nose 89 (Alsace). Subtle notes of orange, cream and 89 traminer (Alsace). The nose on this wine on this wine shows mere hints of rose but promises peach make for a mellow nose on this wine. The offers fleshy, fruity richness with notes of rose juicy peach. The palate delivers the luscious peach wonderfully textured midpalate presents aromatic petal. Rounded peach on the palate is tempered by on its medium-dry body that has a lovely vein of highlights of orange peel. It is balanced and medium orange freshness and sweetness. An aromatic bal- freshness. There’s a mouthwatering, pleasant note dry on the finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. ance shimmers with ripe, sweet citrus all the way to of bitterness on the finish. Chemin Des Vins. —A.K. —A.K. a medium-sweet finish. Bon Vivant Imports. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $36 Domaine Roland Schmitt 2018 Glintzberg Lucien Albrecht 2019 Réserve Gewurztra­ Domaine Barmès-Buecher 2018 Gewurz 89 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Buttery notions 89 miner (Alsace). In this wine, a subtle nose 89 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Rose, honey- surround baked peach on the nose of this wine, unites rosy florals with ripe, juicy peach. These suckle and peach make a fragrant trinity on the nose suggesting peach crumble. The palate has textured notions also play on the rounded and juicy palate of this wine. The palate presents these perfumed, sweetness reminiscent of Red Delicious apple where fruity ripeness is boosted by medium sweet- fruity notions in a medium-sweet body, balanced and more baked-peach notes. The finish is juicy, ness. The finish brims with freshness. Foley Family with an almost zesty texture and freshness. This rounded and medium sweet. Beaune Imports. —A.K. Wines. —A.K. wine is rich but also sprightly. Petit Pois. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 Domaine Zinck 2016 Terroir Gewurztraminer Meyer-Fonné 2018 Réserve Gewurztraminer Domaine Charles Baur 2018 Gewurztraminer 89 (Alsace). Notes of melted butter on the 89 (Alsace). An earthy note dominates the 89 (Alsace). Candied peach notes on the nose nose of this wine gently envelope the honeysuckle nose on this wine before fruity, candied notions of of this wine have a hint of honeysuckle. The palate and peach aromas. Butteriness persists on the con- peach kick in on the palate. The body is rounded and then presents that peach in luscious, ripe juiciness. centrated palate where it seems enhanced by man- luscious with juicy peach and yellow plum, while This full-fruited wine is rich and rounded, framed darin freshness. The medium-sweet finish is bal- the sweet finish echoes long with richness. Kermit by gentle freshness. The finish is medium sweet and anced and bright. American B.D. —A.K. Lynch Wine Merchant. —A.K. long. Best Case Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $29 Gustave Lorentz 2019 Réserve Gewurztra­ Philippe Sohler 2018 Cuvée Marine Gewurz­ Domaine du Manoir 2018 Clos du Letzenberg 89 miner (Alsace). In this wine, notes of ripe 89 traminer (Alsace). Sweet apple freshness 89 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Rose notes sur- melon have overtones of dandelion blossom. The plays on the nose of this wine, enhanced by subtle round ripe notions of apricot and peach compote on concentrated palate brims with juicy freshness and floral notes. The palate shows similar brightness, the nose of this wine. The palate homes in on peachy verve. Ripe Mirabelle fruit is edged with lemony combining juicy yellow apple and plum with gentle richness, oozing with juicy, syrupy fruit. Freshness pith, coming to a refreshing, off-dry finish. Quintes- but zesty lemon. Although the finish is medium saves this from becoming too rich and the medium- sential Wines. —A.K. sweet, it’s very balanced and refreshing. Steven J sweet finish is balanced. De Novo Wines. —A.K. abv: 1.2% Price: $28 Berardi. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $21 Jean-Baptiste Adam 2019 Les Natures Domaine Fernand Engel 2018 Clos des Anges 89 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Subdued pear Pierre Sparr 2019 Grande Réserve Gewurz­ 89 de Rorschwihr Gewurztraminer (Alsace). freshness has hints of rose on the nose of this wine. 89 traminer (Alsace). A whiff of passion fruit Honey, baked apricot and cream unite into a rich, The palate comes in with pithy, phenolic structure lends a tropical twist to the nose on this wine. The promising nose on this wine. The palate brings out that balances the gentle residual sweetness. Fla- palate presents a juicy combination of peach, yellow the full roundness of blossom honey highlighted by vors of peach and Mirabelle plum abound, joined by plum and rose petal, with a soft sweetness and zesty, lemon freshness. Rounded and generous, the finish zesty orange and rose oil on the off-dry finish. The medium-dry finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.K. is medium sweet. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.K. Sorting Table. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $44 abv: 13% Price: $28 Ruhlmann 2018 Vieilles Vignes Gewurztra­ Domaine Fernand Engel 2018 Kugelberg Jean-Baptiste Adam 2018 Réserve Gewurz­ 89 miner (Alsace). A hint of flinty reduction 89 de Rorschwihr Gewurztraminer (Alsace). 89 traminer (Alsace). Hints of peach have hon- accompanies peach and rose notes on the nose of A touch of flinty reduction plays around honeyed eyed concentration on the nose of this wine. The this wine. The palate continues these notions on a sweetness on the nose of this wine. The palate con- palate intensifies the richness with peach-compote juicy, mellow but fresh body that has gentle sweet- tinues this honeyed sweetness, with a slight musky sweetness and gentle mandarin freshness. On the ness. It is elegant and restrained on the medium- edge and floral overtones. Peach compote juiciness finish, it is honeyed and medium sweet. The Sorting sweet finish. Cognac One, LLC. —A.K. fills the body that finishes medium sweet. Grape Table. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Expectations (CA). —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $38 Willm 2018 Cuvée Emile Willm Gewurztra­ Jean-Louis & Fabienne Mann 2018 Super Dry 89 miner (Alsace). Honeyed lychee and peach Domaine G. Metz 2018 Cuvée Mégane 89 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Honeyed apple notes on the nose of this wine come with overtones 89 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The restrained and rose notes signal richness on the nose of this of jasmine. The palate encapsulates candied man- nose on this wine leads onto a gently sweet palate, wine. The palate is fleshy, bold and rich, but instead darin and peach in its medium sweetness. Rich and with a generous mouthfeel where hints of barley of the expected sweetness, it brims with dry fresh- smooth, the finish is totally tinged with Damask sugar, peach and caramel meet. All is smooth and ness. This wine needs a little more bottle age to knit rose. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $18

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Wunsch & Mann 2018 Gewurztraminer edges and a sumptuous and slightly earthy tex- Domaine Viticole de la Ville de Colmar 2018 89 (Alsace). Funky, yeasty reduction still dom- ture. This wine is rounded, smooth and rich, with a 88 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Earthiness and inates the nose on this wine. The palate, however, medium-sweet finish. WineWise. —A.K. peachiness appear in equal measure on the nose already reveals rounded richness, balanced by zesty, abv: 14% Price: $19 of this wine. The palate sweeps in with rich, sweet pithy texture that adds pleasant bitterness to the notions of barley sugar and lemon brightness. A peachy fruit. The finish is balanced and medium Bott Frères 2017 Tradition Gewurztraminer phenolic edge offers a slight counterpoint to the dry. Schneider’s of Capitol Hill. —A.K. 88 (Alsace). Rich honeyed notes of baked apple lush richness. Advantage International. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $20 and rose abound on the nose of this wine. The sweet abv: 12.5% Price: $25 palate brings more baked fruit, adding the rich Allimant-Laugner 2018 Gewurztraminer aroma of apricot and peach. Sweet and rounded, the Dopff & Irion 2017 Château de Riquewihr Les 88 (Alsace). Notes of Damask rose and honey finish is as lush and honeyed as the nose. Fruit of 88 Sorcières Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Creamy dominate the aromatic nose on this wine. The the Vines, Inc. —A.K. notions of honeysuckle and mandarin fill the nose medium-sweet palate adds juicy mandarin notes abv: 13% Price: $50 on this wine. With an equally creamy midpalate, the and a pleasantly bitter phenolic backbone. This body has a concentrated texture that recalls candied wine is rich, rounded and indulgent. Vigneron Cave de Turckheim 2018 Tradition Gewurz­ mandarin peel. The medium-sweet palate is bal- Imports. —A.K. 88 traminer (Alsace). Subtle notes of rose rise anced and fresh. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $19 from the glass. The palate of this wine sweeps in abv: 13.5% Price: $28 with luscious sweetness and more of that rose per- André Kientzler 2018 Gewurztraminer fume, bedded on candied-peach richness. This wine Dopff Au Moulin 2018 Gewurztraminer 88 (Alsace). The merest hint of passion fruit is round, sweet and rich, but has a welcome fresh- 88 (Alsace). Damask rose and mandarin peel plays on the nose of this wine. Equally subdued aro- ness. Magnum Wines International. —A.K. are heady on the nose of this wine, joining peach and matically, the palate offers medium sweetness with abv: 13.5% Price: $25 lychee to promise sweet fruitiness. The medium- juicy, peachy generosity. The finish shows lots of dry palate adds a welcome dollop of freshness that ease and balance. AP Wine Imports. —A.K. Cave du Roi Dagobert 2018 Découverte keeps everything balanced and bright. Multiple U.S. abv: 14% Price: $20 88 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). In this wine, importers. —A.K. vivid notes of candied mandarin have an edge of abv: 13.5% Price: $21 Anne & Marc Wassler 2018 Gewurztraminer honey. The medium-sweet palate then delivers hon- 88 (Alsace). Passion fruit freshness fills the eysuckle-scented peachiness and juicy mandarin Dopff Au Moulin 2018 The Furst Gewurztra­ nose on this wine alongside honeysuckle notes. The fruit. This is rich and rounded but balanced, with a 88 miner (Alsace). Appetizing notes of rose palate comes in with rounded but balanced sweet- medium-sweet finish. Votto Vines Importing. —A.K. petal, peach and orange-peel on the nose of this ness that emphasizes peachy fruit at the core, along abv: 13.5% Price: $25 wine promise perfumed richness. The palate pres- with a pleasant, pithy texture. It is is medium dry ents this peach and rose with medium sweetness and aromatic on the finish. Pierreclos Imports. Domaine de la Tour Blanche 2017 Gewurz­ and orange freshness. It’s fresh and medium dry on —A.K. 88 traminer (Alsace). Intense notes of Dam- the finish. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $25 ask rose are heady on the perfumed nose of this abv: 13.5% Price: $19 wine. The palate continues in this intense vein and Armand Hurst 2018 Vieilles Vignes Gewurz­ clothes juicy peach in the same rosy scent. Concen- Frédéric Mallo 2018 Cuvée Saint-Jacques 88 traminer (Alsace). Honey and citrus pith trated perfume shows on this wine from start to 88 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). In this wine, promise concentration on the nose of this wine. The medium-sweet finish. Matinicus Wines, LLC. —A.K. rose-petal notes blend in with richer hints of maple palate follows this up with intense notions of com- abv: 13% Price: $37 syrup and lemon barley. These notions continue on pote and Mirabelle skin, with a pithy texture that the sweet, slightly musky body. The mouthfeel is is backed by citrus freshness. This wine is punchy, Domaine Michel Fonne 2018 Tradition rounded and rich, and the finish medium sweet and rich and medium sweet. Amphorium LLC. —A.K. 88 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Heady apple-pie long. USA Wine Imports. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA notes on the nose of this wine still have a yeasty abv: 13% Price: $21 edge. This yeastiness lends its lovely texture to the Bestheim 2018 Anne de K. Gewurztraminer rich, rounded midpalate and counters the medium Frey-Sohler 2017 Rittersberg Gewurztra­ 88 (Alsace). Hints of summer blossom and sweetness. The finish is fresh and bright. Kinson 88 miner (Alsace). Notes of gingerbread and rose play around notions of ripe Mirabelle on the Wholesale. —A.K. barley-sugar sweets are intense on the nose of this nose of this wine. The palate has the same softly abv: 12.5% Price: $16 wine. The palate has luscious richness, with notes scented fruit, rounded and beautifully balanced. of juicy peach compote and vanilla custard. Citrus This wine is easy, off dry, light and harmonious. Domaine Robert Klingenfus 2018 Bruder­ freshness counters all of this generosity. The finish Saranty Imports. —A.K. 88 tahl Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). A is medium sweet and lasting. Kindred Vines. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $20 hint of elderflower surrounds the juicy peach notes abv: 13.5% Price: $27 of this wine. The palate shows gentle sweetness, Bestheim 2018 Classic Gewurztraminer emphasizing juicy peach but framing it with a pleas- Joseph Cattin 2018 Grand C Réserve Gewurz­ 88 (Alsace). Peach-compote notes rise from antly bitter note that counterpoints the juiciness of 88 traminer (Alsace). A subtle nose on this the glass, promising both sweetness and richness. the sweet body. European Wine Imports. —A.K. wine just gives glimpses of rose and honeysuckle. The palate of this wine duly delivers, with rounded abv: 12.5% Price: $22 The palate presents peach-compote notes and sweetness and pithy but pleasant bitterness. It fin- imbues them with warmth, generosity and a dol- ishes medium sweet and lush. Innovino Interna- Domaine Vincent Stoeffler 2018 Tradition lop of sweetness. A touch of honey shows on the tional. —A.K. 88 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Yellow-plum medium-sweet finish. Multiple U.S. importers. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 notes on the nose of this wine have an earthy tinge. —A.K. On the palate, they attain a juicy, syrupy round- abv: 14% Price: $25 Boeckel 2018 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). A ness, with overtones of peach compote. The finish 88 touch of reduction and buttery richness is sweet, luscious and rich. Authentique Vin. —A.K. W. Gisselbrecht 2018 Tradition Gewurztra­ accompany mellow peach fruit on the nose of this abv: 13.5% Price: $32 88 miner (Alsace). Gentle peachiness on the wine. On the palate the peachiness shows floral nose of this wine speaks of ripeness and generos-

92 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 ity. The palate presents rounded, peachy sweet- generous richness. The medium-sweet finish is easy Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2018 Rotenberg ness, edged and balanced by orange-peel freshness and rich. Krewe du Bizou Wines. —A.K. 94 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Restrained zestiness that also harmonizes on the medium-sweet finish. abv: 13% Price: $24 and a sense of russet-pear peel is all the shy nose Chrissa Imports. —A.K. gives away for now. The palate of this wine comes abv: 13% Price: $18 Willm 2019 Réserve Gewurztraminer in with freshness supported by the liveliness of 87 (Alsace). Gentle notes of peach on the nose some residual carbon dioxide, and a richer, almost Arthur Metz 2018 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). of this wine are edged with slight honeysuckle aro- buttery notion of pear fruit. Vivacity has the upper 87 Notes of sweet Golden Delicious apple have mas. The palate adds more juiciness to the proceed- hand, especially on the sprightly finish that tapers floral overtones on the nose of this wine. Continu- ings to give an off-dry, rounded and generous wine from the rounded fruit. Kobrand. —A.K. ing in that rich apple fashion, the palate also adds full of ease. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $74 welcome citrus freshness on the rounded and full- abv: 13% Price: $15 fruited body. The finish is medium sweet and rich. Trimbach 2018 Réserve Personnelle Pinot Advantage International. —A.K. Wolfberger 2019 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). 94 Gris (Alsace). Flinty reduction hovers on abv: 13% Price: $25 87 Jasmine blossom and crisp apple notes on the nose of this wine like a promise of longevity. On the nose of this wine create appetizing freshness. the palate, residual carbon dioxide heightens fresh- Domaine Robert Klingenfus 2019 Signature The palate adds rounded sweetness that lends juici- ness before ripe, yellow pear takes over. This wine 87 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Honeysuckle and ness and ripeness to the apple and Mirabelle-plum is juicy and bold, with a lovely tone of saffron spice yellow Mirabelle plum appear with vivid freshness fruit on the rich but bright palate. The finish is easy edged with a hint of zestiness. Despite its energy on the lively nose of this wine, supported by a streak and medium sweet. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.K. and power, the wine remains taut and linear. The of lemon. Sweeping in on a cloud of juicy and sweet abv: 13.5% Price: $19 textured midpalate maximizes the sense of drive on Mirabelles, the palate has floral overtones. The the dry finish. Drink to 2040. Taub Family Selec- medium-dry finish broadens out with mellowness. Domaine Specht 2018 Gewurztraminer tions. —A.K. European Wine Imports. Best Buy. —A.K. 86 (Alsace). Subdued notes of yellow plum abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 13% Price: $12 on the nose of this wine have overtones of lily and jasmine. Rounded and rich, the palate has a sono- Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2018 Roche Cal­ Domaine Zinck 2018 Portrait Gewurztraminer rous sweetness informed by peach, yellow plum and 93 caire Pinot Gris (Alsace). Flint, smoke, chalk 87 (Alsace). In this wine, a subdued nose with some citrus. The medium-sweet finish once again and cream all appear in brief flashes on the nose of faint notions of mandarin leads onto a medium- brings out florality. USA Wine West. —A.K. this wine. The palate still holds some residual car- sweet palate. Rounded mandarin and peach notes abv: 13% Price: $20 bon dioxide but then slowly reveals serene and ripe create rich juiciness while gentle notes of honey- but bright pear fruit at its core. Freshness takes its suckle play on the finish. American B.D. —A.K. cue from a pithy texture and lends shape to this abv: 14% Price: $20 PINOT GRIS bold but fresh, bone-dry wine. Drink until 2035. Kobrand. —A.K. Gustave Lorentz 2018 Evidence Gewurztra­ Domaine Ostertag 2018 Zellberg Pinot Gris abv: 13% Price: $52 87 miner (Alsace). Subtle notes of jasmine play 94 (Alsace). A notion of freshly cut pear peel about ripe peach and plum on the nose of this wine. has the gentlest creaminess on the nose of this Josmeyer 2017 Le Fromenteau Pinot Gris Offering concentration and medium sweetness, the wine. The palate brims with similarly pure fresh 93 (Alsace). A hint of dried pear is slight but palate is framed by an almost zesty, pithy phenolic fruit while the texture recalls russet-pear peel and pure on the nose of this wine. The palate comes in edge that counters the sweetness. The fruit is par- citrus zest. Mild freshness pervades and brightens with spirited dryness, freshness, linear concentra- ticularly juicy on the appetizing finish. Quintessen- the flavors. The dry finish is luminous and long, as tion and elegance. On the finish, a richer, almost tial Wines. —A.K. well as uncommonly fresh for 2018. Drink by 2040. buttery note rounds things out. This classy wine abv: 14% Price: $33 Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —A.K. should be long-lived. Drink by 2030. French Liba- abv: 13.5% Price: $65 tion. —A.K. Henri Schoenheitz 2018 Gewurztraminer abv: 13% Price: $45 87 (Alsace). Subtle rose and slight licorice play Domaine Weinbach 2018 Cuvée Ste. around peachy notes on the nose of this wine. The 94 Cathérine Pinot Gris (Alsace). In this wine, Kirrenbourg SAS 2018 Roche Granitique palate comes in with luscious sweetness and a con- a flash of freshly cut Williams pear shows befor the 93 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Funky smokiness still centrated core. This wine is bold, rich, warm and nose closes down again. The palate reveals gentle, obscures any fruit on the nose of this wine. The medium sweet. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. rounded fruit and the kind of concentration that palate comes in with uncommon concentration and abv: 14% Price: $25 turns into elegance rather than power. With plenty unusual freshness for a 2018. Homing in on stoni- of energy at the core, sun-ripened and upright, the ness rather than fruit, the wine channels energy Kuentz-Bas 2018 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). wine remains finely chiseled. A freshness uncom- and power towards its lasting, dry and fresh finish. 87 Slight earthiness infuses subtle honeysuckle mon for 2018 pervades the pear notes and lets this Drink by 2035. Vintage Wine Marketing. Editors’ notes on the nose of this wine. The palate then shine. Drink by 2040. Vineyard Brands. —A.K. Choice. —A.K. presents juicy Mirabelle fruit, edged with a pleasant abv: 14.5% Price: $46 abv: 14% Price: $30 phenolic bitterness that lends structure and drive. It is off dry and earthy on the finish. Kermit Lynch Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2018 Clos Winds­ Bestheim 2017 Schlossberg Grand Cru Pinot Wine Merchant. —A.K. 94 buhl Pinot Gris (Alsace). The creamy juici- 92 Gris (Alsace). The aromatic freshness of abv: 14% Price: $25 ness of freshly cut, ripe Williams pear dances appe- freshly cut Conference pear peel shines from the tizingly on the nose of this wine. Fruit purity is also glass. The palate of this wine then presents riper Robert Karcher et Fils 2018 Gewurztraminer apparent on the palate, imbued by vivid, rounded and rounder pear fruit tinged and boosted with a 87 (Alsace). Flinty overtones of reduction still juiciness and supported by a lovely backdrop of dollop of sweetness, but also pervaded by vivid play on the nose of this wine, but underneath lus- pithy, slightly phenolic texture. This adds grace freshness. This wine is concentrated, bold, long and cious peachiness awaits. Coming in with sweetness, and backbone and lets the juicy pear notes express impressive, with a lasting, off-dry and resonant fin- the palate presents juicy peach-compote notes and themselves fully. The finish is wonderfully dry and ish. Saranty Imports. —A.K. lasting. Kobrand. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $99

WINEMAG.COM | 93

BUYINGGUIDE

Domaine Albert Mann 2017 Rosenberg Pinot elegance. Power, spice and length become apparent ate. The finish is elegant and lasting. David Bowler 92 Gris (Alsace). The shy nose on this wine on the dry finish. Leave this for a while and drink Wine. —A.K. allows mere glimpses of russet-pear peel and citrus 2022–2035. Vineyard Brands. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $33 zest. The palate preserves this zinginess but beds abv: 13.5% Price: $38 it on juicy, generous pear fruit. It has lovely con- Domaine Gresser 2018 Brandhof Pinot Gris centration and those lively pear notes seem to radi- Gustave Lorentz 2018 Evidence Pinot Gris 91 (Alsace). Hints of hay accompany pear notes ate ripeness and sunny joy. Meanwhile the finish is 92 (Alsace). Gentle pear notes on the nose of on the nose of this wine, along with subtle creami- balanced, poised and dry. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. this wine shine with purity and subtlety. The palate ness. On the palate the pear fruit comes through abv: 13.5% Price: $30 adds a pithy, textured mouthfeel that channels the with juiciness and verve. The off-dry finish sits well bold but dry richness. Freshness frames the finesse with the balanced, fresh fruit and bold concentra- Domaine Fernand Engel 2018 Renaissance at the core of this bold wine. Drink until 2030. tion. Wine Symphony, Inc. —A.K. 92 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Notes of hay and fresh Quintessential Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $44 pear play subtly on the shy nose of this dry wine. abv: 14% Price: $30 The palate adds apple freshness and lemon over- Domaine Jean Sipp 2017 Lieu-dit Trottacker de tones. There is concentration and lovely, pithy mid- Jean-Baptiste Adam 2018 Letzenberg Gas­ 91 Ribeauville Pinot Gris (Alsace). In this wine, palate texture, and the finish is fresh and dry, a real 92 tronomie Pinot Gris (Alsace). A slight but the shy nose reveals just a subtle creaminess. All the achievement in 2018. This lovely wine will evolve. aromatic hint of russet-pear peel on the nose of flavors come alive on the palate. Rounded, gently Drink to 2030. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.K. this wine promises ripeness. With more air subtle sweet pear is balanced by a pithy, insistent texture abv: 14.5% Price: $45 creaminess appears. The palate offers smoothness pervaded by juiciness. The finish is long, medium and rounded and ripe but gentle pear notes. There is dry and juicy. Vin de Garde Wines. Best Buy. —A.K. Domaine Gérard Neumeyer 2015 Schaef­ as much concentration as there is mellowness and abv: 13.5% Price: $13 92 ferstein Pinot Gris (Alsace). Notes of chalk the long, dry finish sets an elegant tone. The Sorting and hay accompany pear on the nose of this wine, Table. —A.K. Domaine Pfister 2018 Furd Pinot Gris (Alsace). with an overtone of dried yarrow. The palate holds abv: 14% Price: $50 91 The shy nose on this wine shows only the richness of ripe pear and comes with a pleasant glimpses of pear fruit. The palate, however, offers phenolic texture. This wine has lovely balance and Marc Kreydenweiss 2018 Lerchenberg Pinot russet-pear peel and textured, concentrated pithi- weight, shows ample freshness, and finishes off dry. 92 Gris (Alsace). An ethereal lift of hayflower ness. Gentle pear notes soften the picture while Vin43. —A.K. hovers above the pear-fruited nose on this wine. admirable freshness lifts everything. This wine is abv: 13.5% Price: $NA The palate then combines delicacy and bundled dry, powerful and expressive. Lovely now it will power, with a lovely, yeasty texture on the concen- develop. Drink by 2030. Vintage ’59 Imports. —A.K. Domaine Marcel Deiss 2016 Pinot Gris trated midpalate. It has a wonderfully funky but dry abv: 13.5% Price: $31 92 (Alsace). Rich notes of baked pear on the finish. AP Wine Imports. —A.K. nose of this wine are made even lusher by hints of abv: 13% Price: $33 Hugel 2016 Estate Pinot Gris (Alsace). Lifted marzipan and honey. The pear-fruited palate pres- 91 freshness and an ethereal hay-flower note ents similar ripeness, but keeps its balance with the Trimbach 2018 Réserve Pinot Gris (Alsace). suggest both liveliness and some evolution. The rounded generosity of spice, leading to an off-dry, 92 Only a hint of freshly cut, ripe pear peel palate adds a rounded, generous mouthfeel, creating but still fresh and creamy umami finish. Becky Was- appears briefly on the nose of this wine. The pal- a palate of juicy pear and bright lemon. This bold serman Selections. —A.K. ate presents a precise picture of concentrated ripe, wine stays poised and fresh. The dry finish is most abv: 14.5% Price: $29 green pear that comes with purity, precision and appetizing. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. restraint. All the fruit is there, but rather than abv: 14% Price: $42 Domaine Ostertag 2018 les jardins Pinot Gris rounding out, it soars with freshness, which is a real 92 (Alsace). A gentle note of ripe, yellow pear achievement in 2018. The finish is dry and vivid. Leon Beyer 2017 Pinot Gris (Alsace). A subtle, is pure on the nose of this wine, with the slight- Taub Family Selections. —A.K. 91 toned-down nose speaks gently of summer est edge of hazelnut and cinnamon. The palate abv: 14% Price: $30 blossom and creaminess. The palate of this wine adds bright but rounded freshness while the finish blossoms into ripe peach surrounded by mandarin remains dry, shining with purity and poise. Kermit Agathe Bursin 2018 Dirstelberg Pinot Gris freshness and honeysuckle spiciness. Juiciness at Lynch Wine Merchant. —A.K. 91 (Alsace). Gentle notes of ripe pear and yellow the core and a pleasant, mouthwatering bitterness abv: 13.5% Price: $39 apple are subtle on the nose of this wine. The pal- intensifies the moreishness. The medium-dry finish ate imbues the pear flavors with rounded richness. rings long with Damask rose. Banville Wine Mer- Domaine Pfister 2016 Silb Pinot Gris (Alsace). The mouthfeel is smooth and rounded, with a gentle chants. —A.K. 92 A gentle lick of creamy vanilla plays on the freshness. It’s elegant, echoing with a long, just off- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 nose of this wine. The palate intensifies this creami- dry finish. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —A.K. ness and adds notes of chalky earth and fresh, white abv: 13.5% Price: $32 Paul Blanck 2016 Patergarten Pinot Gris field mushroom. Something unctuous and generous 91 (Alsace). Ripe pear notes on the nose of shifts the focus from fruit onto texture on this pow- Domaine Albert Mann 2017 Pinot Gris this wine have something creamy and subtle about erful but balanced and rounded wine. The extended 91 (Alsace). Notions of freshly cut green-pear them. The palate continues in the same, mellow finish is dry and fresh. Drink by 2030. Vintage ’59 peel have citric lift on the nose of this wine. The vein, imbuing the fruit with gentle but concentrated Imports. Cellar Selection. —A.K. palate adds rounded, ripe pear notes that provide texture, creaminess and almost a hint of vanilla. abv: 14% Price: $39 the dry, lively palate with juiciness. A pithy texture Freshness counters and leaves a just off-cry, creamy adds to the enjoyment. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. and fruity finish. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. Domaine Weinbach 2018 Clos des Capucins abv: 13.5% Price: $27 abv: 14% Price: $23 92 Pinot Gris (Alsace). A very shy nose on this wine gives next to nothing away. The palate, how- Domaine Bott-Geyl 2017 Les Éléments Pinot René Muré 2018 Pierres Sèches Pinot Gris ever, comes in with intense creaminess that has 91 Gris (Alsace). Gentle hints of russet-pear peel 91 (Alsace). Pure and bold notes of freshly cut an edge of melted butter. It sits well with the rich, and ripe, yellow pear on the nose of this wine lead russet-pear peel fill the nose on this wine. The pal- rounded pear fruit that dominates the midpal- to a bone-dry body where concentration and texture ate adds flowing pear juiciness and concentration. ate. Gentle freshness frames the fruit and spells reign. Zesty freshness comes with a pithy midpal- Bold fruitiness is held in check by pithy, not quite

94 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 zesty freshness. This wine has drive and energy, of lemon assure a bright balance. The medium-dry and powerful. It is dry, bold and lasting on the fin- with a just off-dry finish. Gargouille Collection. finish is lasting. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.K. ish. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $39 abv: 14% Price: $19 abv: 14% Price: $25 Domaine G. Metz 2018 Vieilles Vignes Pinot Hugel 2018 Classic Pinot Gris (Alsace). In Armand Hurst 2018 Vieilles Vignes Pinot 90 Gris (Alsace). Only the merest hint of ripe, 90 this wine, notes of ripe yellow pear on the 90 Gris (Alsace). Subtle notes of ripe but fresh yellow pear appears on the shy nose of this wine. nose promise juiciness and freshness. Delivering on yellow pear appear on the shy nose of this wine. The The palate comes in with bright, easy and rounded both counts, the palate presents an easy and appe- palate imbues them with more freshness and fruit, freshness. Gentle concentration provides lovely tex- tizing core of green and yellow pear. The rounded creating a sense of concentrated freshness, balance ture. The dry finish reinforces the elegance. Chemin body preserves freshness that brightens the dry fin- and ripe ease. Restrained zestiness makes the just Des Vins. —A.K. ish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. off-dry finish more vivid. Amphorium LLC. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 abv: 14% Price: $29 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Domaine Rieflé-Landmann 2019 Pinot Gris Joseph Scharsch 2017 Clos Saint Materne Bott Frères 2018 Tradition Pinot Gris 90 (Alsace). A heady, almost lifted hint of Wil- 90 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Subtle notes of ripe, 90 (Alsace). A bright freshness of green but liams pear hovers over ripe yellow-pear notes on the yellow-pear flesh almost have a floral overtone on ripe pear fills the nose on this wine. The palate nose of this wine. The palate frames this fruit with the nose of this wine. The palate intensifies this redoubles on the pear fruit, presenting roundness easy charm on a juicy, rounded palate that brims mellow juiciness by adding a hint of sweetness to and generosity but staying slender and dry at the with richness. Bright freshness dominates the dry the concentrated palate. This sits well with the mel- same time. It is smooth and fresh on the finish. finish. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —A.K. low but fresh flavors and leads to a juicy, off-dry fin- Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 ish. Wine Symphony, Inc. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $21 abv: 14% Price: $46 Domaine Schoffit 2018 Lieu-dit Harth Tradi­ Cave de Turckheim 2017 Collection Terroirs 90 tion Pinot Gris (Alsace). In this wine, a shy Kuentz-Bas 2018 Trois Châteaux Pinot Gris 90 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Notes of yellow, ripe nose gives hints of russet-pear peel but concentra- 90 (Alsace). The shy nose on this wine keeps pear are fresh on the nose of this wine. The palate tion seems already implied. The palate shows inten- its secrets for now, showing only a hint of ripe pear. has an almost honeyed sweetness that turns the sity and mild juiciness. With its gentle pear fruit, The palate comes in with the subtle richness of fresh fruit from the nose into mellow and rich dried the wine is just off dry but exquisitely balanced. baked pear, freshness and gentle spice. A mellow pear. A lovely bitter pithiness adds texture and Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. fruit balance gives roundness and texture. The fin- frames the richness. The finish is medium sweet abv: 13.5% Price: $24 ish is off dry and bright. Kermit Lynch Wine Mer- and long. Magnum Wines International. —A.K. chant. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $35 Emile Beyer 2018 Tradition Pinot Gris abv: 14% Price: $30 90 (Alsace). Pure and vivid notes of ripe, juicy Domaine Agapé 2017 Expression Pinot Gris yellow pear fill the nose with the very first whiff. Meyer-Fonné 2018 Réserve Pinot Gris 90 (Alsace). Bitter almond and pear are aro- The palate of this wine continues this vividness, 90 (Alsace). A touch of reduction still clings matic and promising on the nose of this wine. The delivering a veritable pear party on the palate. to the nose but underneath, ripe pear notes peek palate comes in with rounded but defined richness Lovely texture assures structure while freshness through. The palate of this wine is mellow, with a and a smooth texture. The finish is dry, lasting and balances the bouncy fruitiness of the off-dry finish. lovely edge of baking spice and a rounded mouth- fresh. The Wine Trust. —A.K. Michael Corso Selections. —A.K. feel and texture. Concentration becomes apparent abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 on the dry, bright finish. Kermit Lynch Wine Mer- chant. —A.K. Domaine Charles Baur 2018 Pinot Gris François Baur 2018 Herrenweg Pinot Gris abv: 13.5% Price: $26 90 (Alsace). In this wine, a subtle nose makes 90 (Alsace). The shy nose on this wine allows shy promises of ripe pear. Ripe, fresh pear duly only glimpses of russet-pear peel but the pal- Paul Blanck 2018 Pinot Gris (Alsace). The appears on the concentrated palate where gentle ate presents ripe pear fruit in all its glory. Juicy, 90 shy nose on this wine has faint overtones of freshness highlights the pithy, not quite zesty tex- rounded and mellow, the wine is boosted by a touch bitter almond. The palate brings concentration and ture and adds verve to the fruit. The wine has lovely of sweetness and supported by gentle creaminess. It freshness, with ample bright but ripe pear fruit and balance and a freshness that was not easy to achieve is a mellow, full but also balanced wine with an off- more of that lovely almond bitterness that sits well in 2018. It is dry and bright on the finish. Best Case dry finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. with the rounded generosity and full body. Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $22 Wines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $27 abv: 13.5% Price: $21 Henri Schoenheitz 2017 Herrenreben Pinot Domaine Charles Frey 2019 Symbiose Pinot 90 Gris (Alsace). Faint hints of yellow pear are Sipp Mack 2018 Tradition Pinot Gris 90 Gris (Alsace). Mellow pear richness on the subtle but promising on the nose of this wine. The 90 (Alsace). The shy nose on this wine reveals nose of this wine sets the tone for the juicy, gener- palate fully fleshes out these juicy notes of yellow attractive glimpses of ripe but fresh pear. The palate ous palate. Bright freshness provides a counterpoint pear. It offers ripeness, gentle sweetness, subtle sweeps in with freshness at first, illuminating the and makes sure that the wine stays on the refresh- aroma and bright freshness. Pure and lasting, the subtle texture, but then adds a hint of rounded fruit ing, vivid side. The finish is just off dry and appetiz- flavors show a hint of chalky hinterland, while sweetness to come to an off-dry but very balanced ing. BNP Distributing. —A.K. the finish is medium dry and long. Multiple U.S. finish. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $40 importers. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $32 abv: 13% Price: $30 Domaine Fernand Engel 2017 Rotenberg Wolfberger 2019 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Ripe 90 Pinot Gris (Alsace). The nose on this wine Henry Fuchs 2018 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Sub- 90 Conference pear is pristine on the nose of does not want to give much away but the palate is 90 tle notes of green pear and russet-pear peel this wine. The palate holds the same ripe freshness, open and lovely. Gentle sweetness boosts ripe and promise freshness on the nose of this wine. The pal- adding a slightly textured creamy note, balancing dried-pear notes on the palate, inserting a tinge of ate delivers on a concentrated, subtly fruited body honey. Creaminess adds smoothness but highlights that has an almost zesty element, but is also ripe

WINEMAG.COM | 95

BUYINGGUIDE freshness and a hint of baking spice. It is off dry and Cave de Turckheim 2018 Tradition Pinot Gris mouthfeel. It is just off dry and vividly fresh on the bright on the finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.K. 89 (Alsace). In this wine, the subdued nose finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $20 reveals glimpses of ripe pear. The palate offers full- abv: 13% Price: $26 fruited pear ripeness, pithy phenolics and a slight Wunsch & Mann 2017 Cuvée de la Reine Clo­ but pleasant bitterness. Rounded and ripe, the wine Dopff Au Moulin 2018 The Furst Pinot Gris 90 tilde Pinot Gris (Alsace). Subtle hints of finishes dry. Magnum Wines International. —A.K. 89 (Alsace). A shy nose on this wine gives only citrus and pear are all that escape on the shy nose abv: 13.5% Price: $25 a hint of pear freshness. The palate unfolds with of this wine. On the palate the pear notes take on ripe pear, gentle almond bitterness, slight phenolic a full-fruited, rounded generosity and ripeness, Cave du Roi Dagobert 2018 Découverte Pinot pithiness and a rounded mouthfeel. It is vivid and boosted by a hint of residual sweetness. A lovely 89 Gris (Alsace). The gentle freshness of green dry on the finish. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. yeasty, phenolic texture counteracts alongside juicy but ripe pear plays subtly on the nose of this wine. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 freshness, leading to a medium-dry finish. Schnei- Continuing in this bright vein, the palate adds mel- der’s of Capitol Hill. —A.K. low fruitiness. The effect is juicy and rounded, but Frey-Sohler 2018 Rittersberg Pinot Gris abv: 12% Price: $25 all remains fresh. It is off dry and bright on the fin- 89 (Alsace). The closed nose on this wine gives ish. Votto Vines Importing. —A.K. next to nothing away. However, the palate presents Allimant-Laugner 2018 Pinot Gris (Alsace). abv: 13.5% Price: $25 a juicy flow of pear fruitiness. The body is mellow 89 Generous ripeness is already apparent on and fresh. Underneath flashes of orange juiciness the juicy, almost tropically inflected notes of pear Domaine de la Tour Blanche 2018 Pinot Gris lead to a just-dry finish. Kindred Vines. —A.K. on the nose of this wine. Juicy, mellow and fresh, 89 (Alsace). Ripe russet-pear notes are vivid abv: 13% Price: $25 the palate comes with creaminess that accentu- on the nose of this wine. The palate clings to these ates the richness. The finish is off dry and mellow. and comes in with juiciness and a little edge of bak- Gustave Lorentz 2019 Réserve Pinot Gris Vigneron Imports. —A.K. ing spices. The mouthfeel is rounded and generous, 89 (Alsace). Freshness and the fruity ease of abv: 13% Price: $18 with a fresh finish. Matinicus Wines, LLC. —A.K. ripe pear show on the nose of this wine. The pal- abv: 13.5% Price: $31 ate completes the picture with ripe and bright pear André Kientzler 2018 Pinot Gris (Alsace). fruit. There is something summery and bright about 89 Pear notes are subtle but fresh on the nose Domaine Fernand Engel 2018 Clos des Anges this, despite the full-bodied generosity. The finish is of this wine. The palate shows more ripe pear fruit 89 de Rorschwihr Pinot Gris (Alsace). Russet- dry and vivid. Quintessential Wines. —A.K. that’s rounded, medium bodied and off dry. It’s a pear-peel notes have an earthy edge on the nose abv: 14.5% Price: $25 mellow but balanced wine. AP Wine Imports. —A.K. of this wine. Sweeping in with rich sweetness, the abv: 13.5% Price: $17 palate carries honeyed pear notes with its smooth, Jean-Baptiste Adam 2018 Les Natures Pinot slightly viscous mouthfeel. The finish is medium 89 Gris (Alsace). Subtle notes of ripe and mel- Bestheim 2018 Anne de K. Pinot Gris sweet and long. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.K. low baked pear appear gently on the nose of this 89 (Alsace). Notes of fresh pear and Golden abv: 13% Price: $44 wine. The palate also presents this mix of freshness Delicious apple promise fruity ripeness on the nose and roundness, adding juiciness to boost the fruit. of this wine. The palate adds rounded mellowness Domaine Jean Sipp 2018 Réserve Pinot Gris It is off dry and appetizing on the finish. The Sorting as well as a lovely, textured phenolic edge that gives 89 (Alsace). A subtle hint of aromatic Wil- Table. —A.K. contour to the generous fruit. It is off dry and fresh liams pear flashes on the otherwise shy nose of this abv: 13.5% Price: $28 on the finish. Saranty Imports. —A.K. wine. Sweeping in with juicy fruitfulness, the palate abv: 13.5% Price: $25 presents abundant ripe, yellow pear that captures Jean-Louis & Fabienne Mann 2017 Eguisheim the generosity of 2018. The finish is just off dry and 89 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Vivid notes of melted Boeckel 2018 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Gentle vividly fresh. Vin de Garde Wines. —A.K. butter and baked pear on the nose of this wine 89 notes of ripe yellow pear on the nose of abv: 13.5% Price: $17 immediately spell richness. The palate delivers and this wine promise juiciness. The palate delivers adds aromatic baking spices as well as an almond with rounded, bouncy pear fruit on a body that is Domaine Robert Klingenfus 2019 Signature bitterness. This wine offers rounded, mellow but juicy and just about off dry. With a lovely balance 89 Pinot Gris (Alsace). The subtle nose on this dry richness. F & R Wine Imports. —A.K. of freshness and fruit, the wine has a lasting finish. wine combines ripe yellow apple and green pear. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 WineWise. —A.K. An almost zesty, green-pear-peel freshness on the abv: 13.5% Price: $18 palate provides texture. It’s a vividly fresh and bal- Joseph Cattin 2018 Grand C Réserve Pinot anced wine with an off-dry finish. European Wine 89 Gris (Alsace). The shy nose on this wine Cave de Cleebourg 2017 Grande Réserve Imports. —A.K. gives away nothing but a hint of freshness. On 89 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Gentle notes of ripe, abv: 12.5% Price: $16 the palate, ripe, pear-fruited generosity becomes juicy russet pear rise from the glass. The palate of apparent. The finish has a lovely apple-pip note and this wine comes in with gentle roundness, fram- Domaines Schlumberger 2018 Les Princes freshness. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. ing the ripe pear with generosity. Subtle freshness 89 Abbés Pinot Gris (Alsace). Hints of ripe, yel- abv: 14% Price: $20 counters the mellow finish. Premier Sellers. —A.K. low pear just peek through on the shy nose of this abv: 13% Price: $16 wine. The palate sweeps in with the ripe juiciness Joseph Cattin 2018 Sauvage Pinot Gris of yellow pear, adding lovely phenolic pithiness that 89 (Alsace). In this wine, a shy nose only Cave de Ribeauvillé 2017 Collection Pinot provides texture and direction. Subtle freshness allows a slight notion of fresh apple and the palate 89 Gris (Alsace). The richness of the ripe pear highlights the beautifully dry and concentrated fin- shows a similar subtlety. But the wine has bright- fruit becomes apparent on the generous nose of this ish. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —A.K. ness and a generous, juicy mouthfeel that leaves the wine. The palate gives full rein to this rounded pear abv: 13.5% Price: $22 impression of ripe, yellow pear. The finish is fresh generosity, amplified by medium sweetness. The and appetizing. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. richness remains balanced and fresh. Multiple U.S. Dopff & Irion 2018 Château de Riquewihr abv: 13.5% Price: $35 importers. —A.K. 89 Les Maquisards Pinot Gris (Alsace). Notes abv: 13.5% Price: $15 of ripe apple and juicy pear make for an appetiz- Kuentz-Bas 2018 Pinot Gris (Alsace). ing nose on this wine. The palate delivers balanced 89 Creamy, almost buttery notes of pear domi- juiciness and generous fruit, along with a mellow nate the nose on this wine and give a sense of rich-

96 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 ness. The creaminess continues on the rounded, is fresh and mellow, and the finish medium sweet Anne & Marc Wassler 2018 Vieilles Vignes mellow palate that has a distinct sense of maple- and rich. Kinson Wholesale. —A.K. 87 Pinot Gris (Alsace). In this wine, a very shy syrup spice and almond bitterness. This mellow, abv: 12% Price: $15 nose reveals just a hint of pear. The palate pres- generously fruited and spiced wine comes together ents itself in a similarly muted fashion, showing on the medium-sweet finish. Kermit Lynch Wine Domaine Roland Schmitt 2018 Pinot Gris some pear fruit and freshness, with a mellow, juicy Merchant. —A.K. 88 (Alsace). Faint hints of mellow baked apple mouthfeel. The finish is dryish but fresh. Pierreclos abv: 13.5% Price: $22 appear gently on the nose of this wine. Brimming Imports. —A.K. with juiciness, the palate presents ripe yellow apple abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Lucien Albrecht 2019 Cuvée Romanus Pinot and luscious pear. The finish is medium dry and full 89 Gris (Alsace). Pure notes of green Confer- of rich, mellow fruit. Beaune Imports. —A.K. Philippe Sohler 2018 Pinot Gris (Alsace). ence pear are evocative on the nose of this wine. abv: 13.8% Price: $22 87 Easy notes of baked pear fill the nose on this They become more intense on the palate and seem wine. The palate comes in with the same mellow- to gain ripeness. A pithy texture adds richness to Domaine Specht 2018 Pinot Gris (Alsace). ness, presenting generous pear fruit, rounded fresh- the ripeness and generosity. The finish is fresh and 88 The nose on this wine is shy, offering mel- ness and an off-dry finish. Steven J Berardi. —A.K. dry. Foley Family Wines. —A.K. low notes of ripe pear. These become more pro- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 nounced on the rounded palate where generosity and freshness create good balance. The finish is off Robert Karcher et Fils 2018 Pinot Gris Pierre Sparr 2018 Grande Réserve Pinot Gris dry and fresh. USA Wine West. —A.K. 87 (Alsace). A whiff of green pear comes and 89 (Alsace). The closed nose on this wine abv: 13% Price: $19 goes on the shy nose of this wine. Notions of russet- reveals only the slightest hint of pear peel. Next the pear peel and a pithy texture show on the palate. palate comes in with textured, pleasant pithiness Domaine Zinck 2018 Portrait Pinot Gris The mouthfeel is rich and rounded, and the gener- and slight bitterness that works well within the 88 (Alsace). The nose on this wine is chock- ous fruit is countered by freshness on the off-dry full-fruited pear generosity. The finish is dry and full of ripe, juicy pear fruit. Conveying equal juici- finish. Krewe du Bizou Wines. —A.K. fresh. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.K. ness, the rounded and fruity palate has just a little abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 pithiness. The finish is fresh and fruity. American B.D. —A.K. Ruhlmann 2018 Tête de Cuvée Pinot Gris W. Gisselbrecht 2018 Tradition Pinot Gris abv: 13% Price: $20 87 (Alsace). Despite swirling, the closed nose 89 (Alsace). The generous nose on this wine on this wine is not ready to give much away. On the is mellow with baked pear. That same rich fruit Dopff Au Moulin 2018 Pinot Gris (Alsace). palate, the roundness and juiciness of ripe pear gets characterizes the palate where it carries an edge of 88 Subtle notes of ripe yellow pear appear on proper billing. This wine is easy and generous, with marzipan bitterness. Freshness counters but leaves the nose of this wine. The palate presents ripe, juicy a medium finish that leaves just the right balance. a rounded, full-bodied wine with an off-dry finish. freshness, with an edge of phenolic texture that Cognac One, LLC. —A.K. Chrissa Imports. —A.K. adds a pleasant note of bitterness. It is dry and fresh abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 13% Price: $17 on the finish. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $21 Willm 2018 Réserve Pinot Gris (Alsace). Only OTHER WHITE WINES 89 faint hints of pear show on the closed nose Frédéric Mallo 2018 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Only of this wine. The palate, however, presents gener- 88 subtle hints of pear ripeness appear on the Kuentz-Bas 2018 Trois Châteaux Riesling ous, ripe yellow-pear notes. A vein of freshness shy nose of this wine. The palate comes in with ease 92 (Alsace). The subtle nose on this wine alter- adds juiciness and a hint of almond spice. Monsieur but also with brightness. Pear notes have an earthy nates between citrus freshness and Golden Deli- Touton Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —A.K. tinge and a textured mouthfeel while the finish cious roundness. Combining these two elements, abv: 13% Price: $14 remains dry and fresh. USA Wine Imports. —A.K. the palate homes in on the juicy apple ripeness that abv: 13% Price: $17 brings a lovely, textured mellowness. The finish is Armand Hurst 2018 Baronne Tonia de Turck­ dry and pervaded by lemon intensity. Kermit Lynch 88 heim Pinot Gris (Alsace). Vivid, generous Henri Schoenheitz 2018 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Wine Merchant. —A.K. notes of baked apple and pear abound on the nose of 88 A subtle hint of yellow pear is all that can abv: 13.5% Price: $30 this wine. The medium-sweet palate continues this be discerned on the nose of this wine. The palate, apple and pear theme and adds a creamy, spicy ele- however, comes in with ease and brightness. A juicy, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2018 Zind ment so that the overall effect suggests pear crum- balanced midpalate leads to an off-dry but vividly 90 (Alsace). A flinty whiff of reduction ble. It’s a rounded, generous wine with tons of fruit. fresh finish. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. obscures the nose on this wine. The palate comes Amphorium LLC. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 in with slight lemon freshness and nutty-textured, abv: 13.5% Price: $NA chalky brightness. Lovely balance fills the palate, Jean Biecher & Fils 2019 Réserve Pinot Gris still with those appetizing, flinty edges. Final fresh- Domaine G. Metz 2018 Cuvée Melody Pinot 88 (Alsace). Vivid notes of baked pear and pear ness gives the wine its joyful fillip. Kobrand. —A.K. 88 Gris (Alsace). Notes of juicy yellow pear compote immediately fill the nose on this wine. The abv: 12.5% Price: $35 dominate the nose on this wine. The palate comes palate capitalizes on this fruit with mellow, flowing in with a light, easy step that seems weightless and juiciness delivered in a light package. The finish is La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2019 refreshing. The gentle fruity flavors lead to a dry, off dry and fruity. Votto Vines Importing. —A.K. 90 Black Tie by Pfaff (Alsace). Ripe pear notes fresh finish. Chemin Des Vins. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $20 have an overtone of candied lime on the nose of this abv: 13% Price: $19 wine. The palate brims with fruit and freshness. Koenig Vins Alsace 2018 Pinot Gris (Alsace). This blend brings together the generosity, round- Domaine Michel Fonne 2018 Tradition Pinot 88 Subtle fruity freshness on the nose of this ness and texture of Pinot Gris with the soaring vigor 88 Gris (Alsace). The nose on this wine brims wine sets a vivid tone. The rounded palate is juicy of Riesling, showing why these two varieties com- with notes of honeyed pear crumble and baked and mellow, and comes together on a medium-dry plement each other so well. The finish is dry and apple, signaling sweetness from the start. On the finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —A.K. appetizing. DHI Selections. —A.K. palate, rounded, medium-sweet richness illumi- abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 12.5% Price: $19 nates every nuance of that ripe pear fruit. The body

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Famille Sichel 2019 Sirius (Bordeaux Blanc). aging. Still young the wine will be at its best from SWEET WINES 92 For full review see page 22. Best Buy. late 2020. Wine Traditions. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $15 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2018 Clos Jeb­ 97 sal Sélection de Grains Nobles Pinot Gris Château Argadens 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. Château Demi-Cours 2019 Cuvée Vitae (Alsace). Fir honey, dried pear and fruitcake exude 91 Owned by the Sichel family since 2002, this 90 (Bordeaux Blanc). For Bordeaux, the use their warm, sweet perfume on the nose of this wine. chateau is situated in the south of the Entre-deux- of a round-shouldered, Burgundy-shaped bottle is The honeyed palate brims wth dried-fruit intensity Mers. With its fine balance between Sauvignon revolutionary. The wine inside is more typical, crisp that encompasses fig, sultana and pear, with Christ- Blanc and Sémillon, this wine shows the ripeness Sauvignon Blanc with freshness and a tight, mineral mas spice richness. Hints of sandalwood and vanilla of the vintage allied to crisp green fruits and goose- texture. The wine has poise and lightness, ready to lend smoothness and even more aroma. A bright berry flavors. A structured wine, it will be better drink now. DHI Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. vein of lemon purity leaves a pure notion of dried from late 2020. Chambers & Chambers. Best Buy. abv: 12% Price: $13 fig on the long finish. It’s a SGN of rare balance and —R.V. beauty. Drink by 2050. Kobrand. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Château Franc Baudron 2019 Verso (Bor­ abv: 10.5% Price: $160/375 ml 90 deaux Blanc). Made with a good proportion Château La Grande Clotte 2019 Bordeaux of Sémillon as well as some perfumed Muscadelle, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2018 Clos Jebsal 91 Blanc. This wine comes from a 2.5-acre vine- this wine is rich. White fruits and a touch of peach 94 Vendange Tardive Pinot Gris (Alsace). In this yard of old vines close to Saint-Emilion. Wood aged, give an attractive ripeness that is spiced as well as wine, notions of honeyed, baked pear with clove it is ripe with tropical fruits and spice as well as floral. Still young, the wine will be better from late are tender at first but becomes full-blown on the more citrus flavors. The texture and vibrant fruiti- 2020. Rooted Selections LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. concentrated palate. The honeyed edge and distinct ness are still young, so this wine will be better from abv: 13.5% Price: $15 sweetness are countered by concentrated freshness, 2021. B-21 Liquors Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. creating a sweet late-harvest wine of precision, abv: 13% Price: $15 Château Haut-Rian 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. purity and poise. Sweetness enhances the touches 90 This is a rich wine, full of apple and grape- of pear, spice and honey, leaving lasting traces. Château le Grand Verdus 2019 Grande Réserve fruit flavors. A blend of old-vine Sémillon with Sau- Drink by 2050. Kobrand. —A.K. 91 (Bordeaux Blanc). Made from 70-year-old vignon Blanc, it is ripe, packed with fruit and ready abv: 13.5% Price: $102 vines and fermented and aged in Burgundy bar- to drink. Wine Warehouse Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. rels, this wine retains a touch of wood to amplify abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Bott Frères 2015 Vendanges Tardives the richness and smoothness. With a hint of honey 93 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). A full range of as well as plenty of crisp white fruits, the wine is Château La Maroutine 2019 Bordeaux peach fills the nose on this rich wine, suggesting still maturing. It will be at its best from 2021. Wine 90 Blanc. Based in the village of Loupiac on fresh fruit flesh as well as canned and candied ver- Universe Corp. —R.V. the heights above the Garonne river, this estate has sions. A hint of rose perfume plays above that. The abv: 13% Price: $30 produced a wine dominated by Sémillon. While it is palate comes with the roundness and sweetness still crisp, it has an attractive weight and ripeness to of canned-peach syrup. Lemon freshness counters Château Suau 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. Light its citrus flavors and will develop into a rich wine in this and highlights the purity of all those peachy 91 aging on lees has given this wine depth as the next few months. Wait to drink this wine until notions. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. well as an attractive spicy character. The wine is early 2021. Slocum & Sons, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $50 ripe, full of white fruits with a citrus edge. It would abv: 13% Price: $15 be best with food and is ready to drink. Organic. Willm 2015 Vendanges Tardives Gewurztra­ Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits.Best Buy. —R.V. Château Lamothe-Vincent 2019 Héritage 93 miner (Alsace). Musky notes of honey enrich abv: 13% Price: $15 90 (Bordeaux Blanc). The 55% of Sauvignon a sweet notion of peach compote on the nose of this Gris in the blend gives this wine a perfumed char- wine. Honey also pervades the sweet, concentrated Château Bastor-Lamontagne 2019 Confi­ acter. It offers style and freshness while also bring- palate with its aromatic intensity that seems to 90 dence (Bordeaux Blanc). Offering both ripe- ing in spice and a potential for richness as the wine bring out a supercharged peachiness. All is coun- ness and crisp herbal acidity, this perfumed wine develops. Drink from 2021. La Ville Imports. Best tered and made pristine by lemon freshness. This comes from the Sauternes Bastor-Lamontagne Buy. —R.V. intense, sweet wine has an endless finish. Drink by estate. Sauvignon Gris and a touch of Sémillon give abv: 13% Price: $15 2040. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —A.K. the wine its full character and add richness to the abv: 12.5% Price: $54 apple, citrus and white-peach flavors. Drink now. Château Le Bonalguet 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. Advantage International. —R.V. 90 The Sauvignon Gris in this blend gives the abv: 13% Price: $25 wine richness and a delicious perfumed character. It BORDEAUX has crispness and citrus flavors as well but these are Château Bois Malot 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. integrated into the riper white-fruit flavors. Drink WHITE WINES 90 This rich wine has a high percentage of now. Lionstone International. Best Buy. —R.V. Sauvignon Gris in the blend. That softens the acid- abv: 14% Price: $15 BORDEAUX BLANC ity and adds perfume as well as a ripe pear and spice character. The wine is intense and full, just hinting Château Milord 2019 Les Calcaires (Bor­ Château Haut-Rian 2019 Les Acacias (Bor­ at herbal acidity at the end. Drink now. Main Street 90 deaux Blanc). Lightly touched by wood 92 deaux Blanc). A wine from 90-year-old Wine Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. aging, this spicy wine has a ripe character. Fresh- Sémillon vines, this was wood aged to give extra abv: 14% Price: $9 ness has been tamed by the wood, bringing out richness and bring out the wonderful concentra- yellow-fruit and pineapple flavors held together by tion. Ripe white fruits have spiciness as well as a Château de la Vieille Tour 2019 Bordeaux a smooth texture. Drink this wine now. Wine Tradi- mineral texture and juicy acidity. Drink this wine 90 Blanc. Rich, fruity and softly textured, this tions. Best Buy. —R.V. from 2021. Wine Warehouse Imports. Editors’ wine brings out tropical fruits as well as crisper abv: 11.5% Price: $15 Choice. —R.V. herbal acidity. It is ripe, with density from the lees abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Château Roc Meynard 2019 Grande Cuvée 90 (Bordeaux Blanc). This wine’s fruit has

98 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 been softened and rounded by five months’ aging Blanc). This fruity wine has balanced the herbal Château Lamothe 2019 Château Lamothe in wood. A catty aroma from the herbal Sauvignon side of Sauvignon Blanc with hints of tropical fruits 88 de Haux (Bordeaux Blanc). Tangy, crisp Blanc needs to calm down. When that happens this and a perfumed edge from Sauvignon Gris. Drink and with plenty of tight citrus flavors, this is still will be a ripe, spicy white-fruit and citrus-flavored this refreshing wine now. Mr. Wine. —R.V. a young wine. A mineral texture balances with the wine. Drink from 2021. JP Bourgeois. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $22 fruitiness and vibrant acidity. Drink this wine from abv: 12.5% Price: $30 late 2020. Polaner Selections. —R.V. Calvet 2019 Limited Release Sauvignon abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Château Turcaud 2019 Cuvée Majeure (Bor­ 88 Blanc (Bordeaux Blanc). A comfortable, 90 deaux Blanc). Bottled unfiltered and with fruity wine, this is crisp with gooseberry and well Château Lamothe 2019 Château le Giron wood aging, this wine offers tropical flavors as well balanced with yellow-fruit flavors. The tangy tex- 88 (Bordeaux Blanc). Attractively perfumed as spice. Apricot fruitiness is balanced by a smoky ture complements the bright aftertaste. Drink now. Muscadelle in the blend sets this wine off lightly character and intense herbal acidity at the end. Aquitaine Wine Company. Best Buy. —R.V. and with freshness. The more herbal aspect of the Drink from 2021. Sussex Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 wine is bright, crisp and tangy. This balanced wine abv: 14.5% Price: $23 is totally ready to drink. Steep Hill Importing. Best Cap Royal 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. This ripe, Buy. —R.V. Vignobles Gabriel and Co. 2019 Château les 88 soft wine is packed with citrus fruits. Its abv: 12.5% Price: $13 90 Garelles (Bordeaux Blanc). This creamy perfumed character is rich, densely textured and a wine was bottled without sulfur, giving it a lightly little young. Let the wine’s vibrant, buzzy aspects Château le Grand Verdus 2019 Sauvignon oxidative edge. That adds to the wine’s complexity calm down before drinking in late 2020. Suitable 88 Blanc-Sémillon (Bordeaux Blanc). Crisp and and ripe green-plum fruits with their edge of zest. for vegans. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. fruity, this wine is brightly textured and fresh, hint- Drink from late 2020. Organic. Mr. Wine. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 ing at Sauvignon Blanc herbal flavors. With its min- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 eral texture, the wine is still young and will be best Caves de Rauzan 2019 Château Fontoy (Bor­ from 2021. Wine Universe Corp. —R.V. Château Bastor-Lamontagne 2019 Cuvée B 88 deaux Blanc). The 20% of Muscadelle in abv: 12.5% Price: $15 89 de Bastor (Bordeaux Blanc). This dry wine this blend softens the texture, bringing out perfume comes from Sauternes estate of Bastor Lamontagne. and a touch of spice that sit well with the crisp Château Pierrail 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. A The Sauvignon Blanc crispness has been lightly fruitiness. Drink the wine now. —R.V. 88 blend of two Sauvignons, Blanc and Gris, brushed with a touch of honey while keeping plenty abv: 12% Price: $14 this is a rich, aromatic wine. Tropical fruit flavors of tangy, mineral acidity. A textured wine, it will be are balanced by the crisp lime and perfumed acidity. better from 2021. Advantage International. —R.V. Château d’Haurets 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. This attractive wine will be ready from late 2020. abv: 12% Price: $17 88 Even a touch of Muscadelle can bring out a Regal Wine Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. floral character in a mainly Sauvignon Blanc wine. abv: 14% Price: $11 Château de la Bouyère 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. Here it adds a little perfume to the herbal nature of 89 From one of two estates owned by the the wine’s fruitiness. Drink from late 2020. Serge Château Recougne 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. A Queyrens family, this floral, rounded wine moves Doré Selections. —R.V. 88 fruity, aromatic wine, this is rich and full towards mango and tropical-fruit flavors. The rich abv: 12.5% Price: $14 of white fruits. A light touch of herbal acidity keeps Sémillon comes through in this wine, leaving ripe the wine soft and ripe. A white peach flavor joins lemon flavors at the end. Drink now. Slocum & Château du Claouset 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. bright acidity on the finish. Drink now. Vintus LLC. Sons, Inc. —R.V. 88 Ripe while also crisp, this wine has tangy —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $15 layers of white fruits and bright acidity. With a per- abv: 13% Price: $15 fumed character to contrast with the more herbal Château des Tourtes 2019 Le Duo (Bordeaux core, the wine is juicy, fruity and ready to drink. Château Roc de Minvielle 2019 Cuvée Les 89 Blanc). This rich wine has white-currant Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 88 Tourelles (Bordeaux Blanc). Ripe and fruity, flavors lifted by apricot fruitiness. It is a perfumed abv: 12.5% Price: $12 this is a smoothly textured wine. With its citrus and wine, with a zesty character that is refreshing and herbal notes balanced with riper apple and white- mineral at the same time. Drink from late 2020. Château Fonfroide 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. peach flavors, this floral wine is attractively ready to Vivino Selections. —R.V. 88 This light wine is bright with green-fruit drink. LVC Las Vegas Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 acidity and crisp lemon zest. Refreshing grapefruit abv: 13% Price: $12 juiciness has a touch of minerality and a lively after- Château Grand Plantey 2019 Bordeaux taste. Drink now. Advantage International. —R.V. Château Roc Meynard 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. 89 Blanc. In this wine, crisp pink-grapefruit abv: 12% Price: $20 88 Soft and ripe with flavors of apricot and flavors are balanced by a texture that is tangy, full apple, this blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémil- of lemon zest and finished with herbal acidity. Still Château l’Orangerie 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. lon has good acidity and fresh crispness. An herbal a little tight and young, the wine should open out 88 This wine has really herbal, grassy flavors. touch gives a cool edge to the aftertaste of this from late 2020. Advantage International. —R.V. It is tense, full of citrus as well as orange zest and refreshing, tangy wine. Drink now. JP Bourgeois. abv: 13% Price: $20 concentrated green fruits. Drink this wine from late —R.V. 2020. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Château les Reuilles 2019 Sauvignon Blanc abv: 12% Price: $15 89 (Bordeaux Blanc). This crisp wine is full of Château Roquefort 2019 Roquefortissime green apple as well as citrus flavors. Its brightness Château la France 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. A 88 (Bordeaux Blanc). Crisp with herbal flavors is fresh with acidity, with a touch of yellow fruits. 88 classic white wine from the heart of the and tight minerality, this is a lightly wood-aged The wine is ready to drink. Citadel Trading. Best Entre-deux-Mers region, this offers white fruits wine. The time in barrel has calmed the wine’s Buy. —R.V. and a soft texture. It has picked up the richness of greenness and intense acidity. However, it is still abv: 12.5% Price: $12 the vintage, giving lively acidity among all the fruit- young, so wait until 2021. DHI Selections. —R.V. iness. Drink the wine now. Eagle Estates Imports. abv: 13% Price: $25 Vignobles Gabriel and Co. 2019 La Closerie Best Buy. —R.V. 89 Saint-Vincent Grand Pavillon (Bordeaux abv: 13% Price: $9

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Château Roques Mauriac 2019 Bordeaux apple and citrus flavors, made richer by touches of ment, a soft, perfumed taste gives it a floral charac- 88 Blanc. Sauvignon Gris weaves its perfumed pineapple and mango. The wine is ready to drink. ter. The crisp texture is softened by ripe acidity and magic and also its alcohol in this rich, lime and Europvin USA. —R.V. orange-peel sweetness. Drink the wine now. Wine pear-flavored wine. It is full and densely textured, abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Cask Imports. —R.V. while not losing its fresher, crisper side. Drink now. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Saranty Imports. —R.V. Château de Bonhoste 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 87 The perfumed touch of Muscadelle in this Château Lamothe 2019 Madame Etienne wine gives plenty of ripeness to contrast with the 87 (Bordeaux Blanc). A fruity blend, this is per- Château Thieuley 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. crisp green fruits. This attractive, fruity wine is fumed, ripe, crisp and floral. The acidity and fresh 88 A perfumed wine with an attractive light ready to drink. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. edge are balanced by ripe apricot and citrus flavors. touch of Sauvignon Gris, this is both ripe and abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Drink this wine now. Boivin Selections. —R.V. intensely fresh. It has the richness of the vintage in abv: 12.5% Price: $14 the hints of apricot as well as tight lemon flavors. Château de l’Aubrade 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. Drink this balanced wine now. Fruit of the Vines, 87 Dominated by Sauvignon Blanc, this crisp Château Peneau 2019 II Sauvignons (Bor­ Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. and herbal wine is textured, mineral and full of 87 deaux Blanc). This blend of two Sauvignons, abv: 13% Price: $13 gooseberry flavors. Its tight, intense tangy charac- Blanc and Gris, is light, poised and perfumed. The ter needs to soften so drink from 2021. Profile Wine softness is lifted by the wine’s acidity and mineral Dourthe 2019 La Grande Cuvée Sauvignon Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. texture. Drink this balanced, floral wine now. Boivin 88 Blanc (Bordeaux Blanc). Bright lemon and abv: 12% Price: $12 Selections. —R.V. thyme flavors are hallmarks of this crisp wine. With abv: 12.5% Price: $15 its tangy texture and mineral edge, the wine is both Château du Cros 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. A fruity and lightly structured. Drink now. Thiénot 87 blend of Sauvignons Blanc and Gris, this is a Château Penin 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. This USA. —R.V. ripe, citrus and pear-flavored wine. A crisp texture 87 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon abv: 12.5% Price: $15 is balanced by creaminess to produce a bright, ripe Gris with a squeeze of Sémillon is softly textured. wine, ready to drink now. New France Wine Co. Best Green fruits mix with riper apple flavors to give it Gaston 2019 Grande Réserve (Bordeaux Buy. —R.V. a rounded texture, attractively lifted by the crisp 88 Blanc). This fruity, textured Sauvignon abv: 13% Price: $8 aftertaste. Drink now. Steep Hill Importing. —R.V. Blanc has style and balance. It is a bright wine, abv: 13% Price: $16 with a touch of minerality and plenty of white and Château Du Payre 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. A green fruits. Drink this attractive wine now. Misa 87 crisp edge contrasts with this wine’s juicy Château Pertignas 2019 Priolet (Bordeaux Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. richness. Lemon and apricots go together in a com- 87 Blanc). Tightly herbal and spicy, this young abv: 12.5% Price: $11 fortable, balanced blend. Drink the wine now. Terra wine needs some time. With crisp acidity, goose- au Verre. Best Buy. —R.V. berry and pink-grapefruit flavors, the wine is tangy VIgnobles Ducourt 2019 Réserve de Famille abv: 13.5% Price: $17 and likely to be ready to drink from late 2020. Petit 88 (Bordeaux Blanc). This grassy, herbal and Vin. —R.V. fruity wine has just a touch of spice from wood Château Haut-Mouleyre 2019 Sauvignon abv: 12.5% Price: $19 aging. With its crisp texture and lively citrus and 87 (Bordeaux Blanc). The herbal character of apple flavors, the wine is zesty, textured and ready this wine is soft, speaking through ripe fruit with Château Pilet 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. A blend to drink. BNP Distributing. —R.V. crisp apple flavors as well as citrus. An attractive 87 of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, this wine abv: 13% Price: $18 bite gives the wine a fresh lift, making it ready to is fruity and crisp. With fresh apple flavors lifted by drink. Saranty Imports. —R.V. lime, the wine is light, with a touch of minerality. It Vignobles Gabriel and Co. 2019 Château abv: 13% Price: $20 is ready to drink. HB Wine Merchants. —R.V. 88 Moulin de Vignolle (Bordeaux Blanc). abv: 12% Price: $15 Intensely herbal, this is a mineral- and spice-driven Château L’Oiseau 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. This wine. The fruitiness is muted at the moment while 87 soft wine is lightly textured, with attractive Château Pradeau Mazeau 2019 Bordeaux giving promise for the next few months. Clear and white-fruit flavors. It is tangy, zesty with an herbal 87 Blanc. This herbal wine is crisp, tangy and fragrant, the wine will be ready from late 2020. edge and a citrus aftertaste. The wine is ready to has a strong texture. The fruit is taking a while to Organic. Mr. Wine. —R.V. drink. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. come through all this structure but when it does abv: 12.5% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 soften, the wine will have a bright, tight and green- fruit-flavored future. Drink from late 2020. Acco- Yvon Mau 2019 Premius Sauvignon (Bor­ Château La Gabarre 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. lade Brands. —R.V. 88 deaux Blanc). While this wine is light, it has 87 This is a soft wine, with attractive ripe abv: 12.5% Price: $NA some density from the lees aging that has brought Sauvignon Blanc. Hints of yellow fruits fill out the out the ripeness. Offering plenty of crisp apples and structure, giving richness and depth from the lees Château Roquefort 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. lively acidity, it is ready to drink. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. aging. Drink the wine now. Michael Corso Selec- 87 This ripe blend of Sauvignon Blanc and abv: 12% Price: $15 tions. Best Buy. —R.V. Sémillon brings out tropical pineapple and mango abv: 13% Price: $12 as well as lively citrus acidity. The wine is fresh, Caves de Rauzan 2019 Château Charron already attractive to drink. DHI Selections. —R.V. 87 (Bordeaux Blanc). Tight and perfumed, this Château la Verrière 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. abv: 13% Price: $15 wine is fruity, crisp and fresh. Herbal flavors come 87 Ripe apple and citrus flavors fill out this through most strongly, bringing out grassiness and rich wine that has a balanced texture. Full, tangy Chai de Bordes 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. Sau- a zingy texture. Drink now. Laird & Company. —R.V. and herbal while also packed with fruit, the wine is 86 vignon Blanc dominates this crisp wine. abv: 12% Price: $13 perfumed and ready to drink. Citadel Trading. —R.V. Herbal acidity gives it a zingy texture with a floral abv: 13.5% Price: $17 character. A light wine packed with fruitiness, it is Château Briot 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. With ready to drink. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. 87 tropical-fruit flavors, this ripe style of Sau- Château Laborde 2019 Sauvignon (Bordeaux abv: 12.5% Price: $13 vignon Blanc reflects the vintage well. It is full of 87 Blanc). While this wine has an herbal ele-

100 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Château Bellevue 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. Château Timberlay 2019 Sauvignon (Bor­ of crispness with its acidity and tangy aftertaste. 86 Bright and fruity, this wine with 50% Sau- 86 deaux Blanc). This tight, crisp wine is full Drink now. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —R.V. vignon Blanc is also textured with tangy acidity and of young herbal flavors. Tasting of gooseberry as abv: 14% Price: $15 minerality that will soften. It is likely to be ready well as lime, the wine is heading for a green, fruity from late 2020. Taub Family Selections. —R.V. future. Drink now Terlato Wines International. Château Lamothe-Vincent 2019 Réserve abv: 12.5% Price: $22 —R.V. 85 Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon (Bordeaux Blanc). abv: 13% Price: $15 This soft wine is rounded. Sémillon in the blend Château de Marsan 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. A calms the vibrant Sauvignon Blanc to give a gentle 86 typical herbal and perfumed blend of Sau- Château Tour de Goupin 2019 Bordeaux fruity character. Acidity at the end is a reminder vignon Blanc and Sémillon, this is crisp, lightly per- 86 Blanc. This crisp, fruity wine has an attrac- that the wine is still attractively young. Drink now. fumed. It hints both at pineapple flavors and lime tive addition of perfumed Muscadelle in the blend. La Ville Imports. —R.V. crispness. Drink the wine now. Misa Imports. —R.V. It offers lively citrus and herbal flavors and a tight abv: 12.5% Price: $11 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 texture. The wine is bright and light at the end. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. Château le Gardera 2019 Le Ruisseau (Bor­ Château de Parenchère 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 85 deaux Blanc). Typically herbal and intense, 86 This is a rich wine with spice, white fruits this wine is tight, grassy and tangy. Green-fruit fla- and an orange-zest tang. Its soft texture and super- Château Toutigeac 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. vors and lively acidity dominate this crisp wine that ripe fruitiness mean that it has developed quickly 86 A classic blend of Sauvignon Blanc and is ready to drink. Wineberry America LLC. —R.V. and is ready to drink. Craft+Estate–Winebow. —R.V. Sémillon, this is a crisp, herbal wine. The young, abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $15 bright and tangy texture goes with the grapefruit and gooseberry flavors. Cool and fresh, the wine is Château Les Combes 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. Château de Seguin 2019 Sauvignon de ready to drink. Chemin Des Vins. —R.V. 85 This light, crisp wine offers green-fruit fla- 86 Seguin (Bordeaux Blanc). A light, bright and abv: 12.5% Price: $13 vors and a touch of lemon zest. Vibrant and full of crisp wine, this is lively and tangy. Attractive green gooseberry acidity, it is ready to drink. David Bowler fruit and light herbal flavors lift the wine and mean Domaine du Cheval Blanc 2019 Cuvée Wine. —R.V. it is ready to drink. Plume Ridge. Best Buy. —R.V. 86 Grandes Vignes (Bordeaux Blanc). This abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $6 bright fruity wine is just touched by minerality and packed with crisp green fruits. The perfumed acid- Chateau les Tuilleries 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. Château La Croix de Queynac 2019 Bordeaux ity and tangy aftertaste are immediately attractive. 85 A soft, lightly textured and open wine, 86 Blanc. In this warm, ripe wine, the Sauvi- It is ready to drink. Advantage International. —R.V. this is full of lemon flavors. It is a lively wine with gnon Blanc exhibits a tropical-fruit aspect. That abv: 12.5% Price: $15 attractive fruitiness at the end. Drink now. DHI contrasts with a crisper edge that brings out zingy Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. herbal flavors. Together the two make a wine that Producta Vignobles 2019 Mission St Vincent abv: 13% Price: $10 is ready to drink. Michael Corso Selections. —R.V. 86 (Bordeaux Blanc). A crisp, herbal wine with abv: 13% Price: $12 acidity and a refreshing tangy texture, this is bright Château Mezain 2019 Sauvignon (Bordeaux and fruity. In contrast to the green, fresh side of the 85 Blanc). This ripe, floral wine has fresh apple Château Lamothe-Vincent 2019 Intense wine, hints of apricot give it a rounded aftertaste. and grapefruit flavors. Lightly textured with just 86 (Bordeaux Blanc). Light and fruity, this Drink now. Vinamericas Selections. —R.V. a touch of minerality, the wine is ready to drink. crisp Sauvignon Blanc wine has herbal flavors and abv: 12% Price: $15 Advantage International. —R.V. perfumed acidity. The aftertaste brings out citrus abv: 13% Price: $13 aspects. Drink now. La Ville Imports. —R.V. A. de Luze et Fils 2019 De Luze Sauvignon abv: 13% Price: $13 85 (Bordeaux Blanc). A fruity wine, this is Château Saint-Germain 2019 Bordeaux crisply textured and light in weight. Attractive acid- 85 Blanc. This softly textured wine is full in the Château Larroque 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. A ity and a bright aftertaste are balanced by a mineral mouth, with ripe citrus and herbal flavors. The alco- 86 soft, ripe wine with green-fruit and white- texture and zing. Drink the wine now. Luxco. —R.V. hol shows in a pepper edge that gives a bite to the currant flavors, this is a fresh blend of Sauvignon abv: 12% Price: $13 wine’s texture. Drink now. Monsieur Touton Selec- Blanc and Colombard. Fruitiness, tangy texture tion Ltd. —R.V. and acidity come together in a wine that is ready to Château Buisson-Redon 2019 Bordeaux abv: 14.5% Price: $14 drink. BNP Distributing. —R.V. 85 Blanc. The ripeness of this wine has brought abv: 12.5% Price: $15 out tropical-fruit flavors that pour through the Delor 2019 Réserve Sauvignon Blanc (Bor­ crisper, herbal backdrop. They also mean the wine 85 deaux Blanc). With a good balance between Château Laubès 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Bor­ needs a little aging, so will be best drunk from 2021. ripeness and bright herbal acidity, this wine has a 86 deaux Blanc). Real lemon-juice freshness Pinnacle International. Best Buy. —R.V. fine depth of flavor as well as crisp acidity. Lightly and crispness come right through this wine. With abv: 14% Price: $10 textured and fresh, the wine is ready to drink. Misa its acidity and young herbal qualities, this work in Imports. —R.V. progress will be better from late 2020. Advantage Château de Hartes 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. abv: 12.5% Price: $11 International. —R.V. 85 This perfumed wine offers bright lemon fla- abv: 12% Price: $17 vors through a zesty mineral texture. Citrus sher- Vignobles Gonfrier 2019 Comte de Tassin bet and spice flavors are tangy and crisp at the end. 85 (Bordeaux Blanc). With 70% Sauvignon Château Lauduc 2019 Classic (Bordeaux Drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Blanc in the blend, this is an intensely herbal, crisp 86 Blanc). A simple, crisp blend of Sauvignon abv: 12.5% Price: $14 wine. Grassy and with gooseberry flavors and con- Blanc and Sémillon, this is fresh and fruity. Lemon siderable acidity, the wine is tight and ready to and lime flavors are touched by a spicy hint that Château La Rame 2019 Bordeaux Blanc. This drink. Misa Imports. —R.V. makes the fresh aftertaste attractive. Drink now. 85 wine has succumbed to the richness of the abv: 13% Price: $12 Lanterna Distributors Inc. —R.V. year. Very ripe fruit has a touch of pepper along with abv: 13% Price: $16 rich apple flavors. The aftertaste brings a reminder Yvon Mau 2019 Grand Palais (Bordeaux 84 Blanc). Light and tangy, this wine has easy

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BUYINGGUIDE fruitiness. A clean, fresh character gives the wine Château Bonnet 2019 Entre-Deux-Mers. fruitiness makes the wine very ready to drink. brightness as well as a simple, herbal aftertaste. 89 From the largest estate in the Entre-deux- Advantage International. Best Buy. —R.V. Drink now. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. Mers, this is a classic herbal and green-fruit-driven abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 wine. Grapefruit and lime flavors have an herbal texture that gives the wine a food-friendly bite. Château Moulin de Launay 2019 Entre-Deux- Château Maison Noble 2019 Cuvée Maurice Drink now. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —R.V. 88 Mers. This taut, tight wine has a strongly 83 (Bordeaux Blanc). Named after the current abv: 12.5% Price: $16 mineral edge as well as citrus flavors. Crisp and still owner’s grandfather, this wine is soft and probably young, it needs to soften before it is ready to drink. too rich. The yellow-fruit-flavored Sauvignon Blanc Château Haut Dambert 2019 Entre-Deux- Wait for it to calm down from 2021. Suitable for has been dulled by overripeness. It is ready to drink. 89 Mers. This typical Entre-deux-Mers white vegans. Wines Unlimited . Best Buy. —R.V. Lynda Allison Cellar Selections. —R.V. adds Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle to the blend, abv: 13% Price: $13 abv: 14.5% Price: $19 producing a fragrant, fruity wine. Floral and lightly textured, this young wine has ripeness as well as Château Rougier 2019 Entre-Deux-Mers. poise and final freshness. Drink now. David Bowler 88 Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle come ENTRE-DEUX-MERS Wine. —R.V. together in this crisp, textured wine. Fresh with abv: 12.5% Price: $15 herbal fruits and green-apple flavors, the attrac- Château de l’Aubrade 2019 Aubrade Le Pres­ tively textured wine has a zesty, mineral finish. 91 tige (Entre-Deux-Mers). A selection from the Château Landereau 2019 Entre-Deux-Mers. Drink now. Profile Wine Imports.Best Buy. —R.V. top parcels, this wine has attractive apple, pear and 89 A crisp while also perfumed wine, this abv: 13% Price: $11 nutmeg flavors. Added richness and complexity blends all four of the main Bordeaux white grapes comes from the wood aging that introduces satisfy- harmoniously. It is rich with ripe white fruits while Château Vignol 2019 Entre-Deux-Mers. ing spiciness. Drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. preserving plenty of freshness. Drink now. Lanterna 88 Bright and light with crisp acidity that has —R.V. Distributors Inc. —R.V. been filled out with perfumed Sauvignon Gris and abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $15 Muscadelle, this wine is textured, tangy and ready to drink. The Wine List Inc. —R.V. Château de Fontenille 2019 Entre-Deux- Château Moulin De Ferrand 2019 Entre-Deux- abv: 13% Price: $15 90 Mers. A deliciously ripe wine, this brings 89 Mers. In this attractive blend, Muscadelle together crisp acidity and smooth pineapple and weaves its perfumed spell. Aged on its lees before Cheval Quancard 2019 Cuvée Clémence apricot flavors thanks to the Sauvignon Gris and bottling, the wine has crisp acidity, refreshing cit- 88 (Entre-Deux-Mers). Aged for six months Muscadelle in the blend. The wine is balanced and rus flavors and a tight while fruity aftertaste. Drink in wood, this perfumed wine is spicy with nutmeg ready to drink. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V. now. Organic. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. and wood toastiness. The two Sauvignons, Gris abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $15 and Blanc, are the dominant forces, giving the aro- matic character as well as herbal acidity. Drink now. Château de L’Hoste Blanc 2019 Vieilles Château Turcaud 2019 Entre-Deux-Mers. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. 90 Vignes (Entre-Deux-Mers). This lightly 89 There is an attractive touch of perfumed abv: 12.5% Price: $18 wood-aged wine is smooth, with yellow and mango Sauvignon Gris in this ripe wine with its crisp tex- fruit flavors. A hint of spice from the wood aging tures and spicy aftertaste. The wine is rich, creamy Château de Beauregard-Ducourt 2019 Entre- rounds out the ripe blend to give a generous wine and full of tangy fruit, with a great bite of acidity at 87 Deux-Mers. Ripe white fruits are allied to that is ready to drink. Lanterna Distributors Inc. the end. Drink now. Sussex Wine Merchants. Best citrus and herbal flavors in this attractive, softly —R.V. Buy. —R.V. textured wine. A warm feel contrasts with the abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 crisper edge of acidity at the end. Drink now. Bay- state Wine & Spirits. —R.V. Château le Prieur 2019 Cuvée Passion Château Vermont 2019 Prestige (Entre- abv: 13% Price: $14 90 (Entre-­Deux-Mers). This wine is tangy and 89 Deux-Mers). This tight, zesty wine bursts bright, with acidity and pink-grapefruit fruitiness. with green fruits and lively acidity. Herbal, grassy Château de l’Aubrade 2019 Entre-Deux-Mers. A zesty feel is broadened by touches of spice and Sauvignon Blanc dominates this wine that comes 87 The Sauvignon Blanc that dominates this freshened by acidity. Drink now. Well Crafted Wine from a property dating back to the 19th century in wine has been tamed by the Muscadelle in the & Beverage. Best Buy. —R.V. the heart of the Entre-deux-Mers. Touton Selec- blend, which gives richness and contrasts with the abv: 13% Price: $12 tion. —R.V. herbal citrus flavors. It is fruity, textured and ready abv: 13% Price: $20 to drink. Profile Wine Imports.Best Buy. —R.V. Château Nicot 2019 Entre-Deux-Mers. In abv: 12.5% Price: $10 90 this wine, a dash of Muscadelle gives a per- Château Castenet 2019 Entre-Deux-Mers. fumed character to the Sauvignon Blanc and Sémil- 88 A ripe, warmly textured wine, this is full Château les Arromans 2019 Entre-Deux-Mers. lon. With flavors of orange zest and hints of pine- of pineapple as well as crisper citrus flavors. Mus- 87 A balanced wine poised between crisp cit- apple, the wine is richly textured and ready to drink. cadelle and Sémillon in the blend confer richness rus and riper white fruits, this is refreshing. Acid- Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. that contrasts with the herbal character of the ity shines a light through this ready-to-drink wine. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Sauvignon Blanc. Drink this full wine now. Jack Organic. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. Edwards Collection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17 Domaine du Bourdieu 2019 Sainte Anne abv: 88% Price: $14 90 (Entre-Deux-Mers). Organic since 1963, Château Martinon 2019 Entre-Deux-Mers. this vineyard has produced a ripe and full wine. Château Cathalogne 2019 Entre-Deux-Mers. 87 Ripe Sémillon gives this wine a smooth It has spice and touches of caramel as well as ripe 88 Owned by the Despagne family, well-known character. Creamed-apple flavors are prominent, peach and pear flavors. This rounded wine is ready white wine producers in the Entre-deux-Mers, the shot through with tangy gooseberry and grapefruit to drink. Organic. Chartrand Imports. Best Buy. estate has produced this bright, ripe wine with flavors. Really crisp now, it will be better from late —R.V. attractive acidity and a young texture. Balanced 2020. Signature Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $14

102 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Caves de Rauzan 2019 Château Canteloud­ Château Ferran Saint Pierre 2019 Tucaou is a blend of Sauvignon Gris, Muscadelle and Sau- 86 ette (Entre-Deux-Mers). A soft, simple wine 89 (Entre-deux-Mers Haut-Benauge). This vignon Blanc. It offers a heady perfume and ripe with crisp green-apple and citrus flavors, this is smoothly textured, rich wine shows both fruitiness tropical and white-fruit flavors, with some spice light and packed with fruitiness. The texture gives and spicy wood flavors. The wine is textured, full from some wood aging. Drink now. W. Direct. —R.V. a final bite to a wine that is ready to drink. Laird & of apricot fruits with a ripe, tangy aftertaste. Drink abv: 14% Price: $30 Company. —R.V. this wine now. Biodynamic. Suitable for vegans. abv: 12% Price: $14 Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. Château Haut Colombier 2019 Blaye Côtes abv: 13% Price: $28 87 de Bordeaux. This attractive, balanced wine Château Darzac 2019 Entre-Deux-Mers. This easily contrasts fresh apple and citrus fruits with 86 textured, delicious blend includes Sauvi- Château Grand-Portail 2019 Entre-deux- touches of peppered pineapple. The wine is ripe gnon Gris. With its mineral texture and zingy acid- 89 Mers Haut-Benauge. From the slopes of the while still retaining freshness. Drink now. Aquita- ity, the wine is vibrant and fruity. Drink now. DM Entre-deux-Mers region overlooking the Garonne, ine Wine Company. —R.V. Vineyards & Partners. —R.V. this well-balanced wine offers strong mineral and abv: 14.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 citrus flavors. It is fresh and floral while also tex- tured, giving an attractive bite to the fruitiness. Château Tanesse 2018 Palissades Moelleux Château La Mothe du Barry 2019 Cuvée Drink now. Lanterna Distributors Inc. —R.V. 85 (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux). Although 86 French Kiss (Entre-Deux-Mers). This wine is abv: 12.5% Price: $15 described as sweet, this wine really hovers between attractively balanced, ripe with a soft texture that freshness and medium sweetness. Apricots and ripe is complemented by the strong, grassy edge from Château Ferran Saint Pierre 2019 Tradition red apples balance each other, crispened by the final the 80% Sauvignon Blanc in the blend. Drink now. 85 (Entre-deux-Mers Haut-Benauge). This acidity. Drink now. Misa Imports. —R.V. Organic. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. wine is rich with spice and caramel flavors. It is abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $17 softly textured, with a light touch of acidity and green fruits. The wine is ready to drink. Biody- Château La Rose du Pin 2019 Entre-Deux- namic. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. CRÉMANT DE BORDEAUX 86 Mers. In this ripe wine, herbal fruits mingle abv: NA Price: $24 with more tropical flavors. It has crisp acidity and Château de Lisennes NV Bulles de Lisennes a zesty, spicy texture. The wine is ready to drink. 88 Brut (Crémant de Bordeaux). Sémillon, Cab- Planet Wine. —R.V. OTHER WHITE WINES ernet Franc and Muscadelle make this an attractive, abv: 13% Price: $14 perfumed wine. The blend gives the wine both its Michel Lynch 2019 Réserve (Graves). A classic freshness and ripe apple flavors. Drink this wine Château Bellevue 2019 Entre-Deux-Mers. 91 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, this now. Connoisseur Wines. —R.V. 84 Full of superripe fruit, this rich wine is is a partially wood-aged wine. Concentrated from a abv: 12% Price: $19 heavy and almost overweight. Green fruits are low-yield harvest, the aromatic fruit also hints at packed tightly into a full-bodied wine that partially spice and pineapple flavors. The tang and crispness Jaillance NV Héritage Brut (Crémant de Bor­ redeems itself by the tangy acidity at the end. Drink need to soften, to bring out the toast from the wood. 88 deaux). An attractively perfumed, crisp now. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. Drink from late 2020. Perfecta Wine Co. —R.V. and clean wine, this is packed full of apple flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 over the creamy mousse. With acidity and a touch of lemon zest, the wine is fruity and ready to drink. Château la Tuilerie du Puy 2019 Cuvée Tra­ Château Fage 2019 Graves de Vayres. The Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. 84 dition (Entre-Deux-Mers). A spicy edge of 90 small Graves de Vayres appellation faces abv: 12.5% Price: $18 caramel in this wine gives it an oxidative edge. It the hill of Fronsac across the Dordogne river. This also brings out a touch of bitterness that needs to wine, an attractive blend of Sémillon with Sauvi- Yvon Mau NV Premius Brut Rosé (Crémant de soften. Drink the wine from late 2020. Luneau USA gnon Blanc, is spicy with a hint of nutmeg as well as 88 Bordeaux). Made in a traditional style, this Inc. —R.V. perfumed floral and citrus flavors. Still young, the is a fruity, crisp blend of Cabernet Franc and Mer- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 wine will be at its best from 2021. Monsieur Touton lot. With its freshness allied to the attractive straw- Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. berry flavors, the wine has both a ripe character and ENTRE-DEUX-MERS abv: 12.5% Price: $15 a buoyant mousse and aftertaste. Drink now. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. HAUT-BENAUGE Château Langlet 2019 Sauvignon Blanc abv: 12% Price: $19 89 (Graves). One of the properties owned by Château Bel-Air l’Espérance 2019 Entre- the Kressmann family, this estate has produced a Calvet 2018 Brut (Crémant de Bordeaux). 90 deux-Mers Haut-Benauge. A bright, ripe and bright, ripe and fruity wine. Apple and yellow fla- 87 This soft wine offers a creamy mousse and smoothly textured wine, this offers tropical fruits as vors give a rich sensation while also keeping herbal lightly perfumed acidity. With a touch of herbal fla- well as crisper citrus. The wine is attractively per- freshness. Drink this wine now. Aquitaine Wine vors that contrast with the apple freshness of the fumed, shot through with final acidity. Drink now. Company. —R.V. texture, it is ready to drink. Calvet USA. —R.V. Speciality Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $12 Château Haut-La-Péreyre 2019 Bordeaux. Dulong NV Rosé Brut (Crémant de Bordeaux). Château Vermont 2018 La Grande Cuvée 88 Fragrant and fruity, this wine is crisply tex- 87 A pale sparkling rosé, this wine is crisp, 90 (Entre-deux-Mers Haut-Benauge). Wood tured. A strong herbal, green element is softened by clean, full of acidity and lively red-currant and rasp- aged for five months, this wine has ripe spice flavors perfume from the Sauvignon Gris. Still young and berry flavors. The attractive creamy mousse goes in harmony with the green fruit. The crisp, nervy with vibrant fruitiness, the wine is ready to drink. right through to the aftertaste. Advantage Interna- texture gives the wine shape and complexity, but Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. tional. —R.V. will be better when it has softened. Wait to drink abv: 12.5% Price: $17 abv: 12% Price: $18 this wine from 2021. Touton Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $29 Château Petit Boyer 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Yvon Mau NV Premius Brut (Crémant de 88 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). This rich wine 87 Bordeaux). This soft, creamy wine is full of

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BUYINGGUIDE baked-apple flavors that are balanced by fresh acid- Delor 2019 Villa des Dunes (Bordeaux Rosé). with a crisp texture that sings with red-berry fla- ity. This light, vibrant wine is ready to drink. MHW, 90 This wine’s name is a reminder that the vors, perfumed acidity and a bright aftertaste. Drink Ltd. —R.V. Atlantic coast close to Bordeaux has the highest the wine now. Wine Source International. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $19 sand dune, Pilat, in Europe.Soft, fruity and full of abv: 12.5% Price: $15 forward strawberry flavors, the wine is touched by Dulong NV Brut (Crémant de Bordeaux). caramel and spice that contrast with the tangy acid- Rosé de Chambrun 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. 86 This blend of Cabernet Franc and Sémil- ity. Drink now. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. 88 Made from 100% Cabernet Franc, this is lon is rounded, with juicy red-apple flavors. The abv: 12.5% Price: $15 an attractively perfumed, crisp wine. It is light and soft texture gives it a creamy character, but it has a fruity, flavors of raspberries mingling with a light more tangy aftertaste. Drink now. Advantage Inter- Château des Tourtes 2019 Merlot-Cabernet herbal, stalky character. Drink now. Ideal Wine and national. —R.V. 89 Sauvignon (Bordeaux Rosé). This blend is Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20 softly textured, with a touch of pepper as well as abv: 12.5% Price: $NA plenty of acidity. Still young, it shows the poten- Louis Vallon NV Brut (Crémant de Bordeaux). tial for fruitiness that will be expressed soon. Drink Vignobles Gabriel and Co. 2019 Château les 85 Fresh, crisp and fruity, this wine is per- from late 2020. Vivino Selections. —R.V. 88 Garelles (Bordeaux Rosé). This ripe, per- fumed and light, with attractive apple acidity. A abv: 13% Price: $20 fumed wine offers an interplay between Merlot and nutty character adds extra interest to the wine’s Cabernet Franc. It is full in the mouth and packed fruitiness. Drink now. Bridge Imports. —R.V. Château Tour de Bonnet 2019 Merlot-Cab­ with fruit. The wine’s acidity is of a piece with abv: 12% Price: $15 89 ernet Savignon (Bordeaux Rosé). Clean and its richness, giving a bright edge to the aftertaste. well-structured, this wine comes from this Lurton Drink now. Organic. Mr. Wine. —R.V. Louis Vallon NV Brut Rosé (Crémant de Bor­ family estate in the Entre-deux-Mers. It has bright abv: 12.5% Price: $25 83 deaux). This soft wine has a soapy mousse acidity, with an herbal hint giving great freshness. and light fruitiness that’s spoiled by a bitter edge. This red-fruit-flavored wine is ready to drink. Caves de Rauzan 2019 Fleur (Bordeaux Rosé). It finishes with crisp acidity. Bridge Imports. —R.V. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. 87 With over 80% Cabernet Franc in the blend, abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 this wine is perfumed, with fresh acidity to balance the crisp red-berry flavors. The wine is attractively Château du Claouset 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. fruity, light and ready to drink. Suitable for vegans. BORDEAUX ROSÉ 88 Perfumed Cabernet Franc gives this wine Laird & Company. Best Buy. —R.V. ripeness, crispness and wild-raspberry flavors. It abv: 12% Price: $11 Château de la Dauphine 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. is tangy and juicy, with fruitiness at the end. Drink 90 This wine comes from the well-known and now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Château La Croix de Queynac 2019 Bordeaux grand Fronsac estate west of Saint-Emilion. Well- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 87 Rosé. In this soft wine, gentle red fruits are judged crispness allows for bright acidity as well as set alongside a rounded texture. The acidity is there, wild-strawberry flavors. Perfumed and deliciously Château Lauduc 2019 Classic (Bordeaux just right for this rich wine and already fully inte- fruity, the wine is ready to drink. Laguna Cellar. 88 Rosé). Ripe strawberries are cut with grated. Drink now. Michael Corso Selections. Best Best Buy. —R.V. crisper red currants in this attractively perfumed, Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Cabernet Franc-based wine. Acidity balances the abv: 13.5% Price: $12 tangy texture. Drink now. David Bowler Wine. —R.V. Château de Marsan 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. For abv: 13% Price: $16 Château Landereau 2019 La Vie en Rosé 90 full review see page 23. Best Buy. 87 (Bordeaux Rosé). A spicy, perfumed blend abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Château Roquefort 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, this is smoothly 88 This 100% Cabernet Franc rosé offers textured, with a touch of crispness at the end. The Château La Rame 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. From spicy, perfumed and ripe strawberry flavors. The red-currant flavors and acidity are in complete har- 90 vineyards overlooking the Garonne river, weight and richness are balanced by final zesty mony, so the wine is ready to drink. Hand Picked this wine is crisp, clean and tangily fruity. Red- acidity. Drink now. DHI Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. Selections. —R.V. currant and spice flavors balance between freshness abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 13% Price: $15 and ripeness, with a lovely lilt of acidity at the end. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. Best Buy. —R.V. Château Thieuley 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. This Château Penin 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. This abv: 12.5% Price: $15 88 soft, ripe wine offers generous red fruits 87 refreshing, crisp wine has a good balance and well-balanced acidity. A touch of caramel comes between red fruits and bright acidity. The texture Château Laubès 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon from Merlot in the blend. The fruity wine is ready to is light and lively. Drink this attractive wine now. 90 (Bordeaux Rosé). Set on the heights above drink. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Steep Hill Importing. —R.V. the Garonne river, this estate has produced a crisply abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $15 fruity wine, with attractive acidity and a touch of tannins. Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, the wine Château Vermont 2019 Sensation (Bordeaux Château Pertignas 2019 Rosé de Pertignas has structure while never losing sight of the attrac- 88 Rosé). This refreshing wine has a good bal- 87 (Bordeaux Rosé). Showing the ripe fruit of tive red fruits. Drink now. Advantage International. ance between crispness and orange-peel flavors on the vintage, this balanced wine has a good combina- Editors’ Choice. —R.V. the one hand and ripe, red fruitiness on the other. tion of acidity with bright berry fruits and a tangy abv: 13% Price: $17 Lightly textured, the wine is ready to drink. Touton texture that gives it freshness and a great lift. Drink Selection. —R.V. now. Petit Vin. Best Buy. —R.V. Château Suau 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. Light abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 90 aging on lees has given this wine depth as well as an attractive spicy character. The wine is Delor 2019 Nature (Bordeaux Rosé). This Château Roc de Minvielle 2019 Cuvée Les ripe, full of white fruits with a citrus edge. It would 88 attractive wine aims to do everything 87 Tourelles (Bordeaux Rosé). Coming from be best with food and is ready to drink. Organic. 100%. It’s from organic vines and is totally Merlot. vineyards in the heart of the Entre-deux-Mers, this Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits.Best Buy. —R.V. Even the label foregoes tree paper for sugar cane, wine is soft, fruity with raspberry flavors but also abv: 13% Price: $15 hemp and flax fibers. The wine is fresh, balanced

104 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 cut with acidity. The wine is very ready to drink. ity, this wine is light and balanced. Freshness pro- Château Lamothe 2019 Miette (Bordeaux LVC Las Vegas Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. vides a bright beacon amid the intense fruitiness 85 Rosé). Mainly Cabernet Franc, this wine is abv: 13% Price: $12 and touch of caramel. Drink now. VOS Selections. perfumed, spicy and with an attractive bite of acid- —R.V. ity. It is lively and full of juicy fruitiness. Drink now. Dourthe 2019 La Grande Cuvée (Bordeaux abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Polaner Selections. —R.V. 87 Rosé). Made from 100% Cabernet Franc, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 this is a perfumed, fruity wine. Crisp red-currant Château la France 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. Cab- fruits have a spicy character that allows this attrac- 86 ernet Franc takes the lead in this blend, giv- Château Milord 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. This tive wine to shine. Drink now. Thiénot USA. —R.V. ing spiciness and richness. It is a shame that the 85 soft and fruity wine with caramel Merlot abv: 12.5% Price: $15 wine also has high alcohol that adds a pepper edge flavors is simple, ripe and refreshing. A light, crisp to the weight. The wine is more for food and is ready edge comes from the final acidity. Drink now. Wine Kressmann 2019 Croix Saint-Martin (Bor­ to drink. Eagle Estates Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. Traditions. —R.V. 87 deaux Rosé). Immediately attractive, this abv: 14.5% Price: $8 abv: 13% Price: $15 offers ripe fruits and crisp acidity. Merlot and Cab- ernet Sauvignon blend for a stylish, fresh, ready-to- Château Lamothe-Vincent 2018 Rosé (Bor­ Château Tour de Goupin 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. drink wine. Wine Source International. —R.V. 86 deaux Rosé). With touches of caramel and 85 This bright wine offers hints of caramel fla- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 richness from red fruits, this is an attractive blend vors as well as red-currant freshness. The wine is of the three main Bordeaux grapes. It is full of vivid lightly textured, tangy and ready to drink. Baron Vignobles Despagne 2019 Oh La La! Le Rosé fruitiness, ripe and full in the mouth. Drink now. La Francois Ltd. —R.V. 87 (Bordeaux Rosé). Bright and crisp, this Ville Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 fruity rosé has attractive structure as well as red abv: 13% Price: $11 fruits. Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, the wine A. de Luze et Fils 2019 De Luze (Bordeaux has just a touch of tannin to give it shape. Drink Château Tassin 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. A 84 Rosé). A soft wine with ripe, almost sweet now. Misa Imports. —R.V. 86 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, strawberry fruits, this is light and gently textured. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 this is crisp, tight with tangy acidity as well as red It is ready to drink. Luxco. —R.V. fruits. Fresh and laced with red currants, the wine abv: 11.5% Price: $13 Vignobles Gabriel and Co. 2019 Château les is ready to drink. Wineberry America LLC. —R.V. 87 Aubiers (Bordeaux Rosé). This rich blend abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Château de Lisennes 2019 7 Hectares (Bor­ with 60% Merlot has layers of ripe red-berry fruits. 84 deaux Rosé). This dark-pink-colored wine The wine is touched with acidity, leaving space for Kressmann 2019 Pink de Kressmann (Bor­ offers rich fruitiness, with an intense strawberry its fruitiness and final edge of perfumed caramel. 86 deaux Rosé). This soft, caramel and rasp- flavor. The ripeness has been exaggerated by heavy- Drink this attractive wine now. Mr. Wine. —R.V. berry-flavored wine is a 50/50 blend of Merlot and handed color and flavor extraction. Drink the wine abv: 12.5% Price: $23 Cabernet Sauvignon. It is vibrant and fruity, with now. Organic. Connoisseur Wines. —R.V. plenty of acidity to go with the riper aftertaste. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Vignobles Gabriel and Co. 2019 Château Drink this refreshing wine now. Wine Source Inter- 87 Marot (Bordeaux Rosé). This rich wine is full national. —R.V. Château Haut-Mouleyre 2019 Rosé (Bor­ of ripe strawberry fruits. The color is relatively dark abv: 12.5% Price: $13 84 deaux Rosé). Red-currant fruits have a ripe for a modern rosé, underlining the ripeness and character that is enhanced by the nutty quality of the full fruitiness of this ready-to-drink wine. Mr. Chai de Bordes 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. Light this wine. Softly textured and with a pinch of spice, Wine. —R.V. 85 caramel flavors are balanced by crisp acid- it is rich and ready to drink. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 ity and red-berry flavors to give a wine that bright, abv: 13% Price: $17 crisply texture and packed with fruitiness. Drink Château Bellevue 2019 Le Rosé de Bellevue now. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. Vignobles Gabriel and Co. 2019 La Closerie 86 (Bordeaux Rosé). This producer has taken abv: 12.5% Price: $13 84 Saint-Vincent Grand Pavillon (Bordeaux a leaf from the song sheet of Provence because the Rosé). This light wine has fruitiness and red-berry color of this rosé is almost white. Its soft texture Château Fonfroide 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. This flavors. That freshness is spoilt by bitter acidity and tangy red fruits are ripe, warm from the vintage. 85 lightly tangy wine has a spicy character as that cuts through and gives the wine a tight, hard It is ready to drink. Taub Family Selections. —R.V. well as refreshing acidity that complements the edge. Mr. Wine. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $22 red-currant fruits, bite of pepper and backdrop of abv: 12% Price: $22 caramel. Drink now. Advantage International. —R.V. Château de Fontenille 2019 Belle Rosée de abv: 13.5% Price: $17 86 Fontenille (Bordeaux Rosé). This fruity SAUTERNES wine has attractive textured acidity and crisp red- Château La Gabarre 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. currant flavors. A hint of caramel gives richness and 85 This smooth blend with almost equal pro- Château Lapinesse 2018 Vieilles Vignes (Sau­ softens the intense acidity that shoots through the portions of the three main Bordeaux red grapes is 91 ternes). A balanced wine, this rich Sauternes wine. Drink now. Winebow. —R.V. gentle and rounded. A zingy aftertaste brings in the is poised between sweetness and a citrus acidity, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 acidity. Drink now. Michael Corso Selections. —R.V. preventing any suggestion of cloying. That crisp abv: 13.5% Price: $12 edge keeps the wine fresh while the dry botrytis Château de l’Aubrade 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. core promises good aging over the next few years. 86 This soft wine has ripe strawberry fruits Château la Verrière 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. In Drink this wine from 2022. Road Cru. —R.V. and a fresher side of acidity. It is light and per- 85 the same family for four generations, this abv: 13% Price: $50 fumed, finishing with a touch of caramel. Profile estate has produced a ripe rosé. Caramel as well as Wine Imports. —R.V. strawberry flavors give richness along with a bitter Château Mauras 2016 Sauternes. With abv: 12.5% Price: $12 edge that needs to soften. Drink this wine from late 88 its typical Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc 2020. Citadel Trading. —R.V. blend, this is a smoothly textured, rounded and Château Haut-Rian 2019 Bordeaux Rosé. abv: 13% Price: $17 honeyed wine. It is on the light side, with attrac- 86 Offering crisp red fruits and attractive acid- tive acidity as well as touches of dry botrytis. It’s

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BUYINGGUIDE a style of wine that has aged relatively quickly, so ness that are happily balanced by final juicy acidity. drink now. Misa Imports. —R.V. LALANDE DE POMEROL Drink from 2021. Wine Warehouse Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $49 abv: 14% Price: $35 Château Tournefeuille 2018 Lalande de 92 Pomerol. Big and ripe, this wine balances Château Haut la Grâce Dieu 2016 Saint- BORDEAUX the opulence of Merlot and the structure of Caber- 91 Émilion. Owned by the Saby family that has net Franc. The wine is full of ripe, juicy black fruits estates in St Georges Saint-Emilion and elsewhere RED WINES that are underlined by the structure and tannin. in Bordeaux, this is a small estate east of the town With a fine future ahead of it, the wine will be ready of Saint-Emilion. The richness of the fruit comes BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDUEAX from 2023. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. both from the vintage and the Merlot in the blend. abv: 14.5% Price: $36 It gives a generous feel to the jammy black fruits and Château Petit Boyer 2018 Cuvée Paloma La ripe tannins. Drink the wine from 2022. —R.V. 93 Confidentiels (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). Château de Chambrun 2017 Lalande de abv: 14% Price: $NA This wine is full of dense fruits and rich tannins. 91 Pomerol. This luscious, rich wine is packed Aged for 18 months in wood, it is impressively rich with black fruits. It has weight and density but the Château Jacques Noir 2018 Saint-Émilion. while also retaining style and balance. This black- natural freshness of the vintage gives it a lift and 90 This spicy wine shows plenty of wood- fruit and spice-flavored wine still needs several acidity. Tannins have now almost fully integrated aging flavors alongside the black-currant fruits. years. Drink from 2023. W. Direct. —R.V. into this full-bodied wine that is ready to drink. That means that needs time to integrate and bring abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. —R.V. out both the fruit and the fine tannic structure. abv: 14% Price: $NA Drink this wine from 2022. BNP Distributing. —R.V. Château Petit Boyer 2018 Cuvée Armand abv: 14.5% Price: $35 91 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). A structured Château Moncets 2017 Lalande de Pomerol. wine packed with tannins, this is rich and dense. 90 This Merlot-dominated wine is ripe, with Château Palatin 2018 Saint-Émilion. A gen- Chocolate and coffee flavors are packed into a firm generous tannins. It also has great freshness along 90 erous blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cab- structure along with layers of black fruits. The wine with rich black-currant fruits that are still develop- ernet Franc, this is spicy, perfumed and still young. needs time. Drink from 2023. W. Direct. —R.V. ing. The wine’s smaller-than-usual production was Blackberry fruits are still integrating with the firm abv: 14.5% Price: $32 caused by frost. Drink from 2021. Calvert Woodley tannins, promising a rich experience from 2022. Fine Wines & Spirits. —R.V. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Château Petit Boyer 2018 Unique Terroir Pre­ abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $40 91 mium Lieu-Dit Galineau (Blaye Côtes de Bor­ deaux). Cabernet Franc gives a rich, perfumed char- Cheval Quancard 2018 Fleur du Roc (Saint- acter to this dense wine. Tannins and concentrated MONTAGNE-SAINT-ÉMILION 89 Émilion). Produced from vines grown in black-berry fruits are threaded together in a ripe, the plain that stretches from Saint-Emilion to the juicy and harmonious combination. This single- Château la Fleur 2016 Montagne-Saint- Dordogne river, this wine has some ripe, bold Mer- vineyard wine will age well. Drink from 2022. W. 89 Émilion. With its 60% Merlot, this wine is lot that gives richness to the black-plum fruits. The Direct. —R.V. just hinting at maturity. Ripe tannins still give a dry dark tannins are full and firm, with a solid struc- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 core, but they are surrounded by black fruit that is ture. Drink this wine from 2022. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. beginning to soften and show secondary flavors. It is abv: 14% Price: $27 Château Petit Boyer 2018 Unique Terroir just ready to drink. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. 89 Premium Lieu-Dit Merigot (Blaye Côtes de abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Cheval Quancard 2018 Fortin Plaisance Bordeaux). This powerful wine relishes its weight 88 (Saint-Émilion). A ripe, juicy and fruity and richness. Dense tannins speak of extraction as Château Plaisance 2018 Montagne-Saint- wine, this is full of black-currant acidity. The wine well as ripe black fruits. The wine has power, but it 89 Émilion. This ripe, attractive wine offers is fresh as well as structured, contrasting black is saved from excess by acidity and the core of juicy balanced black-currant flavors and a generous tan- fruits with the dry core of tannins. Drink this wine black currants. Drink from 2022. W. Direct. —R.V. nic structure. It is full of juicy fruitiness that mar- from 2022. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 ries well with the structure. Drink this wine from abv: 14% Price: $30 2021. BNP Distributing. —R.V. Château Cantinot 2016 Rivière du Château abv: 13.5% Price: $28 CASTILLON 88 Cantinot (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). The second wine of Château Cantinot, this is dominated Château les Tours de Bayard 2016 Cuvée CÔTES DE BORDEAUX by Merlot with the addition of Cabernet Sauvi- 88 Prestige (Montagne-Saint-Émilion). From gnon. Rich fruits are well balanced by acidity and selected parcels in the vineyard, this top wine from Domaine de l’A 2016 Castillon Côtes de Bor­ the smoky flavors that are developing as the wine the estate is rich with dense black fruits. Dark 93 deaux. From a property owned by top con- matures. It is still structured but is ready to drink. chocolate and spice flavors speak of extraction that sultant Stéphane Derenoncourt, this wine is a blend Anfora LLC. —R.V. has brought out the tannins, so everything needs to of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. It is ele- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 soften and coalesce for the wine to be ready. Wait gant, developing well in its balance of tannins and until 2021. Touton Selection. —R.V. maturing fruits. The dry core is destined to soften Château Petit Boyer 2018 Prestige (Blaye abv: 14.5% Price: $17 into a smooth final texture. Drink from late 2021. 87 Côtes de Bordeaux). Aged in wood for 10 Taub Family Selections. —R.V. months, this is a ripe blend of Merlot, Cabernet abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Sauvignon and Malbec. It is concentrated and ripe SAINT-ÉMILION with chocolate and spice flavors as much as fruit. It Château Hyot 2018 Réserve (Castillon Côtes needs to soften and let the fruit speak through the Château Mangot 2016 Saint-Émilion. Now 91 de Bordeaux). For full review see page 15. tough extraction. Drink from 2022. W. Direct. —R.V. 92 almost mature, this richly textured wine abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $33 is powered by dark tannins that sit comfortably with the black plum and berry fruits. The majority Château Hyot 2018 Castillon Côtes de Bor­ Merlot in the blend gives the wine weight and ripe- 90 deaux. A ripe and spicy wine, this shows

106 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 rich tannins and a solid texture. Juicy blackberry- Its balance is developing well, potentially giving a richness and density. Drink the wine from 2022. jelly flavors lighten the load of richness and shed an ripe but fresh wine from 2022. Misa Imports. —R.V. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. attractive light on the wine’s fruitiness. Drink from abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 2021. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Château de Marsan 2018 Cadillac Côtes de Château Guillaume Blanc 2018 Cuvée 1562 88 Bordeaux. This dense wine has dark-choc- 89 (Bordeaux Supérieur). This dense wine is Château Roquevieille 2018 Castillon Côtes olate flavors, suggesting some firm extraction. That rich, with generous tannins as well as bold black 90 de Bordeaux. This is an attractively bal- gives the wine a dry, solid character to go with the fruits. Black-plum flavors are balanced by the dry anced wine. Tannins and black-currant flavors har- still-young black fruits and final juicy acidity. Drink core and acidity. All these elements have produced a monize, giving richness and also structure. The ripe the wine from 2022. Misa Imports. —R.V. full wine that will age well. Drink from 2021. Hemi- Merlot, which forms 70% of the wine, is restrained, abv: 14.5% Price: $18 spheres. Best Buy. —R.V. giving juicy fruits and good acidity. Drink from abv: 14% Price: $13 2021. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18 BORDEAUX SUPÉRIOR Château Haut-La-Péreyre 2018 Bordeaux 89 Supérieur. Now in its sixth generation of Château des Demoiselles 2018 Castillon Château de Benauge 2018 Cuvée des Sei­ ownership by the same family, this estate in the 88 Côtes de Bordeaux. This rich, fruity and 91 gneurs (Bordeaux Supérieur). For full review Haut-Benauge region overlooks the Garonne valley. wood-aged wine promises balance from the black- see page 22. Best Buy. This wine is full and rich, reflecting the weight of berry fruits and generous tannins. At the moment, a abv: 14.5% Price: $15 the year, bringing out tannins, juicy black fruits as dry core shows strongly, but this will soften. Drink well as a bite of pepper from alcohol. The wine will from 2021. La Ville Imports. —R.V. Château le Gardera 2018 Cuvée Bio (Bordeaux be ready from 2021. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17 91 Supérieur). For full review see page 15. Edi- abv: 14% Price: $18 tors’ Choice. CADILLAC abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Château Jalousie Beaulieu 2018 Bordeaux 89 Supérieur. This firm wine is layered with CÔTES DE BORDEAUX Château de Macard 2018 Réserve (Bordeaux dark tannins and concentrated black fruits. With 90 Supérieur). This wine is dominated by fruit its richness comes a dry core and dark-chocolate Château de Lestiac 2018 Cuvée Prestige from century-old Cabernet Franc vines. Tannins flavors that are balanced by juicy acidity. The blend 92 (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). For full review and dark coffee flavors are prominent in this con- with 90% Merlot is generous but needs aging. Drink see page 12. centrated wine with a mineral edge. The youth of from 2021. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 the wine is increased by its dry edge of extraction. abv: 14% Price: $17 Let the wine soften and drink from 2022. Serge Château Tanesse 2018 Cadillac Côtes de Bor­ Doré Selections. —R.V. Château la Verrière 2018 Bordeaux Supéri­ 92 deaux. For full review see page 12. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 89 eur. Fourth-generation owners of this estate abv: 14% Price: $21 in the heart of the Entre-deux-Mers have produced Château de Terrefort-Quancard 2018 Bor­ this richly dense, smoothly textured wine. Dusty Château de Lyde 2018 Cadillac Côtes de Bor­ 90 deaux Supérieur. This rich wine is develop- tannins give a core of dryness, a center for the bold 91 deaux. For full review see page 15. ing well as it begins to bring out the black plum and black fruits. The succulent wine is developing well, abv: 14% Price: $17 berry fruits. Ripe tannins and acidity give a great ready to drink from 2021. Citadel Trading. —R.V. medium-term aging potential. Drink this wine from abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Château de Paillet-Quancard 2018 Cadillac 2021. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. 91 Côtes de Bordeaux. This estate in the hills abv: 14% Price: $18 Château le Gardera 2018 Bordeaux Supéri­ above the Garonne river has produced a dense wine, 89 eur. This rich wine packed with blackberry with layers of wood as well as juicy blackberry fla- Château Jalousie Beaulieu 2018 Cuvée Pres­ flavors comes from a property on the heights above vors. Spicy, ripe tannins are still very present to 90 tige (Bordeaux Supérieur). Pure Merlot has the Garonne river at Langoiran. Its ripe tannins and balance the fruit. Sure to develop well, the wine will produced this powerfully rich wine. Tannins and juicy fruits have married together into a wine that be at its best from 2022. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. dark black-plum flavors are still nudging each other is almost ready to drink. Just wait until 2021. Misa abv: 13.5% Price: $18 for balance. As it develops this wine will be densely Imports. —R.V. textured and rich with fruit and texture. Drink from abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Château Haut-La-Péreyre 2018 Cuvée Meste- 2021. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. 91 Jean (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). This wood- abv: 14% Price: $19 Château Meillier 2018 Cuvée Prestige (Bor­ aged wine is made from a selection of three parcels 89 deaux Supérieur). This fruity wine is well- in the vineyard. It is rich, packed with black-currant Château La Rose du Pin 2018 Bordeaux balanced, rich in black-currant flavors that are fruit. Tannins come from high proportions of Cab- 90 Supérieur. This wood-aged wine is rich in supported by tannins. The dominant Merlot in the ernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot in the blend. It is tannins as well as dense black-plum flavors and blend is packed with fruitiness and restrained by balanced and is developing well. Drink from 2022. juicy acidity. The wine’s spiciness and generous the dry core that will allow the wine to age. Drink Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. structure are fine foils to the fruitiness that sings from 2021. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24 through. Drink from 2021. La Ville Imports. Best abv: 14% Price: $16 Buy. —R.V. Château Langoiran 2018 Cadillac Côtes de abv: 13% Price: $14 Château Recougne 2018 Bordeaux Supéri­ 90 Bordeaux. For full review see page 19. 89 eur. Dense tannins and ripe black fruits abv: 12.5% Price: $21 Château de Ribebon 2018 Réserve (Bordeaux indicate the richness of this wine. The tannins are 89 Supérieur). Aged in wood for 18 months, still young, giving the wine a dry feel at this stage. Château Baracan 2018 Cadillac Côtes de this wine shows powerful tannins as well as a dry But generous fruits are there and will come through 88 Bordeaux. Full of black-currant flavors, this core that is still young. The juicy black-currant fla- shortly. Drink from 2021. Vintus LLC. —R.V. wine is structured while also attractively perfumed. vors are still developing, offering good potential for abv: 14.5% Price: $20

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Château Saby 2016 Bordeaux Supérieur. This Château de Ribebon 2018 Bordeaux Supéri­ months into attractive, fruity richness. Drink from 89 rich wine with chocolate and spice flavors 87 eur. This rich, Merlot-dominated wine is 2021. La Ville Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. is a dense expression of this powerful vintage. Dark powered by black-currant fruits. Tannins are still abv: 13% Price: $14 tannins are softening into the blackberry fruits with there, with a tough edge that suggests heavy extrac- their layers of acidity and structure. Drink this wine tion during winemaking. The wine needs to soften. Château d’Haurets 2018 Bordeaux. Full of from 2021. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. Wait to drink until 2021. Monsieur Touton Selec- 88 black fruit, this dense wine brings out the abv: 14% Price: $15 tion Ltd. —R.V. ripeness of the vintage. While the alcohol is obvi- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 ous, fresh blackberry flavors mask it. This rich wine Château Vieira 2018 Bordeaux Supérieur. is ready to drink. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. 89 This rich wine has firm tannins and layers Château du Grava Société Viticole de France abv: 14.5% Price: $14 of jammy blackberry fruits. The dryness of the tan- 87 2018 Bordeaux Supérieur. The estate, situ- nins is ascendant at this stage but this will go as ated in the Entre-deux-Mers, has produced this Château des Combes 2018 Bordeaux. Full the rich fruit comes forward. It has a good medium- softly textured, spicy wine. Wood aging has brought 88 of blackberry fruits, rich in tannins while term future. Drink from 2021. Misa Imports. —R.V. out the blackberry fruits and balanced acidity to also well balanced, this stylish wine demands some abv: 15% Price: $15 give a wine that will shortly be ready to drink. Just aging. It has the structure and bold fruit of the vin- wait until 2021. Misa Imports. —R.V. tage, ripe and with fine promise. Drink this lightly Château de Macard 2018 Bordeaux Supéri­ abv: 13.5% Price: $15 spicy wine with a succulent aftertaste from 2021. 88 eur. This ripe and spicy wine offering rich Planet Wine. —R.V. black-currant fruits is dominated by 80% Merlot Château l’Orangerie 2018 Bordeaux Supéri­ abv: 13.5% Price: $14 in the blend. This gives the wine its alcohol and also 87 eur. A wood-dominated wine, this is full of generous fruitiness. Drink the wine from 2021. The spice and toast flavors that gives it a dry character Château Fontana 2016 Bordeaux. This Wine Source. —R.V. that will soften although never quite go away. The 88 large estate has produced a softly textured abv: 14.5% Price: $20 black-currant flavors need time to come through, so and balanced wine. Ripe tannins and juicy Merlot wait until 2021. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. blackberry flavors give the wine a rounded char- Château du Grand Bern 2018 Bordeaux abv: 13% Price: $15 acter that still has freshness. After four years, the 88 Supérieur. Spice and a firm edge of extrac- wine is ready to drink. Schäfer-Reichart Selections. tion gives this wine plenty of structure. It has a Château Saint-Germain 2018 Bordeaux Best Buy. —R.V. more juicy, generous future as the ripe Merlot tan- 87 Supérieur. This smooth, rich wine has plenty abv: 13% Price: $11 nins soften. It will have density and already shows of full black-fruit flavors. Its texture still shows the potential for juicy blackberry fruits. Drink from youthful tannins that will soon be fully integrated Château Grand Meynau 2018 Bordeaux. This 2021. Misa Imports. —R.V. with the powerful fruitiness and acidity. It will be 88 rich wine is typical of the big, bold vintage. abv: 14.5% Price: $16 a dense wine, ready from 2021. Monsieur Touton Black fruits are lifted by spice and acidity, giving Selection Ltd. —R.V. ripeness that is surprisingly restrained given the Château Grand-Portail 2018 Bordeaux abv: 14.5% Price: $15 alcohol. The wine is ready to drink. Aquitaine Wine 88 Supérieur. This ripe wine is dominated by Company. Best Buy. —R.V. Merlot. Rich black fruits and generous tannins are Château Les Gravettes 2016 Bordeaux abv: 14.5% Price: $12 full bodied, concentrated and developing quickly. 86 Supérieur. This stalky, spicy wine still has a Drink this ripe wine from 2021. Lanterna Distribu- considerable tannic structure that gives a dry core Château Grandefont 2016 La Gabare (Bor­ tors Inc. —R.V. to the blackberry fruitiness. The 70/30 blend of 88 deaux). Named after the barges that trans- abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon has a crisp finish ported wine along the rivers to Bordeaux, this wine as well as juicy acidity. Drink the wine now. Misa is soft for the vintage, with attractive black-currant Château le Calvaire 2018 Bordeaux Supéri­ Imports. —R.V. fruit and acidity and only the gentlest of tannins. 88 eur. This firm, dry wine still has plenty of abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Drink this wine now. Hemispheres. Best Buy. —R.V. young tannins that will soon soften to allow the abv: 12.5% Price: $11 black-currant fruit its proper place. Rich while also stalky, the wine needs a little time. Drink from BORDEAUX Château Haut Peyruguet 2018 Bordeaux. 2021. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. 88 With firm, smoky tannins still in place, this abv: 13% Price: $17 Vignobles Gonfrier 2018 Marquis de Bern (Bor­ wine is developing. Black fruits lie under the wine’s 91 deaux). For full review see page 23. Best Buy. structure, giving richness and concentration. Drink Château Virecourt 2016 Cuvée Pillebourse abv: 14% Price: $13 this spicy, ripe wine from 2021. Aquitaine Wine 88 (Bordeaux Supérieur). A full-bodied wine, Company. Best Buy. —R.V. this has smoothly textured, black-currant fruit Château de Beauregard-Ducourt 2018 Bor­ abv: 13.5% Price: $13 backed by ripe tannins. The dry core contrasts with 89 deaux. With a good balance between Merlot the juicy fruitiness and gives the wine balance. and Cabernet Sauvignon, this blend is poised and Château Pasquet 2019 Bordeaux. This bold, Drink now. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. stylish. Juicy black fruits have structure and some 88 ripe wine has layers of black fruits, rich abv: 14.5% Price: $15 aging potential from tannins in the background. tannins and a generous texture. The estate, now in Drink this wine from 2021. Baystate Wine & Spirits. its second generation of family ownership, has pro- Château de Marze 2018 Réserve de la Famille Best Buy. —R.V. duced a wine that relishes richness that envelopes 87 (Bordeaux Supérieur). Rich, smoothly tex- abv: 13% Price: $14 the tannins. Drink the wine from 2021. Lanterna tured and full of ripe red fruits, this is a juicy wine. Distributors Inc. —R.V. Red-berry flavors and plenty of acidity contrast Château La Rose du Pin 2018 Bordeaux. A abv: 14% Price: $15 with the dry core and pepper touch from the high 89 ripe and juicy blend with almost equal pro- alcohol. The wine will be ready from 2021. Mon- portions of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this Château Tour de Goupin 2018 Bordeaux. sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. wine is fruity. Laced with tannins, the wine has 88 This estate in the Entre-deux-Mers region abv: 14.5% Price: $15 a firm, dry core that will soften over the next few has produced a rich, full wine in this vintage, show- ing the warmth of the year. Firm tannins are now integrating with smoky blackberry fruits to give a

108 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 dense but juicy wine. Drink from 2021. Baron Fran- also tannic. Balanced and ripe, it will be a great food mark this wine with potential. It is balanced, with cois Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. wine. Lynda Allison Cellar Selections. —R.V. a structure that highlights juicy fruitiness. Spice abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 and perfume come from the combination of the two Cabernets, with a more luscious contribution from Château La Rose Saint Germain 2018 Bor­ Château Landereau 2019 Bordeaux Clairet. Merlot. Drink from 2023. Vigneron Imports. —R.V. 87 deaux. Powered by ripe Cabernet Sauvignon, 87 The richness typical of a Bordeaux Clairet abv: 12.5% Price: $35 this dense wine has rich tannins. It is generous and is evident in this wine. It also has a stalky texture full bodied, the alcohol showing in a touch of pep- and definite structure. Ripeness is underlined by Château de la Coste 2016 Margaux. This is the per that comes through the blackberry-jelly flavors. the blueberry flavors. Drink from late 2020. Hand 91 second wine of Château Paveil de Luze in the Firm tannins give restraint. Drink from 2021. Misa Picked Selections. —R.V. north of the Margaux appellation. Still young, the Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 wine shows spice from wood aging as well as ripe abv: 14.5% Price: $14 tannins and black-currant fruits. It has potential Château Turcaud 2019 Merlot-Cabernet (Bor­ and will develop over the next few years. Drink from Château Redon 2018 Bordeaux. With a good 87 deaux Clairet). This Clairet-style wine, now 2021. Taub Family Selections. —R.V. 87 balance between tannins and black-currant revived by some producers, emphasizes structure abv: 13.5% Price: $50 flavors, this fresh wine is lightly structured and full and ripe red fruits. The wine has tannins as well as of juicy fruitiness. It is ready to drink. BNP Distrib- a smoky character and spice from the two Cabernets Château Goudichaud 2018 Graves de Vayres. uting. —R.V. in the blend. Drink from late 2020. Sussex Wine 91 A smooth, perfumed and rich wine, this is abv: 13% Price: $14 Merchants. Best Buy. —R.V. already impressive. Ripe tannins and spiciness are abv: 13% Price: $12 boosted by powerful blackberry flavors. The wine is Producta Vignobles 2016 Mission St Vincent ripe and juicy, finishing with a layer of tannins that 87 Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon (Bordeaux). Château Penin 2019 Bordeaux Clairet. This promise aging. Drink from 2022. Monsieur Touton Now mature, this is a fruity, balanced wine. It has 86 soft, raspberry-flavored wine has the edge Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. lightness and poise as well as a smoky character of tannins typical of a Bordeaux Clairet. Fruity, abv: 14% Price: $19 that comes through gentle tannins. Drink this wine almost sweet, it offers a ripe, juicy aftertaste. Drink now. Vinamericas Selections. —R.V. now. Steep Hill Importing. —R.V. Château Malescasse 2017 Cru Bourgeois abv: NA Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $15 91 (Haut-Médoc). Elegant, ripe and balanced, this blend has almost equal proportions of Merlot Château Bellevue 2019 Bordeaux. This Château de Parenchère 2019 Bordeaux and Cabernet Sauvignon. That gives a structured 86 young wine is full of black-currant fruits 84 Clairet. A hugely ripe wine full of red fruits wine from the Cru Bourgeois estate, juicy with Cab- and succulent acidity. The tannins are already fully and with a light tannic character, this is caught ernet freshness and with potential for future aging. integrated into a burst of bright fruitiness. Drink uncomfortably between the structure of a red and Drink from 2022. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —R.V. from 2021. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. and the crispness of a rosé. With food, it might abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $14 work. Craft+Estate–Winebow. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Château Fourcas Dupré 2016 Les Jardins de Château Briot 2018 Bordeaux. This wine is 90 Fourcas Dupré (Listrac-Médoc). The second 85 heavy on tannins, with dark chocolate and wine from this top château in Listrac is now mature. rich spice. The fruit is still not fully organized, sug- OTHER RED WINES It is ripe with hints of the firm tannins and now gesting a wine that will always have some bitter shows a generous structure to go with the smoky dryness. Europvin USA. —R.V. Château Lalande 2018 Saint-Julien. In this black fruits. The wine is totally ready to drink. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 93 ripe wine, velvet fruits surround firm tan- Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. nins that are so typically Saint-Julien. It is packed abv: 13% Price: $19 Château Cazeau 2018 Cuvée 1560 (Bor­ with the black-currant flavors of the majority Cab- 85 deaux). This lean wine has an austere, ernet Sauvignon. This rich wine needs aging. Drink Château Saint-André Corbin 2018 Saint- stalky character that emphasizes structure rather from 2024. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. 90 Georges-Saint-Émilion. The small Saint- than fruit. The dry tannic core will soften but maybe abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Georges enclave north of Saint-Emilion produced not enough. This large estate was first mentioned in some dense, ripe wines in the 2018 vintage. This 1560. Hemispheres. —R.V. Château Lapinesse 2018 Grand Vin (Graves). bottling is particularly rich and concentrated. For- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 93 Dark, concentrated and packed with young ward tannins go with the superripe black fruits tannins as well as rich black-currant flavors, this to give an opulent wine that will develop quickly. wine has a good future. Its structure, with a dry core Drink from 2021. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. BORDEAUX CLAIRET and layers of juicy black fruits, is full and dense. abv: 15% Price: $25 Drink this wine from 2023. Road Cru. —R.V. Château Penin 2019 Natur (Bordeaux abv: 14% Price: $70 Château Anthonic 2018 Les Aigles 90 Clairet). Clairet is a traditional halfway 89 d’Anthonic (Moulis-en-Médoc). The second house between rosé and red. This wine has the tan- Château Mongravey 2016 Margaux. This wine of this Moulis estate is properly fruity, while nic structure of a red and the fruitiness of a rosé. 93 estate in the village of Arsac, at the west- softly textured. Light tannins and black-currant fla- That makes it a food wine, rich and full, with plenty ern end of the Margaux appellation, has produced vors point to a wine that is developing well. Drink of red fruits and juicy acidity. Bottled without an elegant wine. Its wood aging and fruit are com- from 2021. Vigneron Imports. —R.V. added sulfur, the wine is ready to drink. Steep Hill ing well into balance, giving potential richness to abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Importing. —R.V. the black-currant flavors as well as attractive juicy abv: 13% Price: $17 acidity. The wine will age well. Drink from 2024. Château Malvat 2018 Merlot par Nature Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. 89 (Fronsac). A specific parcel of the Château Château Maison Noble 2019 Bordeaux abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Villars estate is given to this wine. It is powerful, 88 Clairet. With its freshness and attractive and dense, dark with tannins and rich in alcohol structure, this wine is fruity with raspberries and Château Anthonic 2018 Moulis-en-Médoc. and generous black fruits. A wine for aging, it will 92 Tannins and ripe black-currant flavors

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BUYINGGUIDE not be ready before 2022. Lanterna Distributors Drink 2023–2036. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Cellar fine-grained tannins. Drink 2021–2031. Tavolo Inc. —R.V. Selection. —K.O. Vigneto. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $25 abv: 15% Price: $96 abv: 14.5% Price: $75

Château Fage 2018 Graves de Vayres. With Principiano Ferdinando 2016 Ravera di Paolo Scavino 2016 Barolo. Fragrant blue 88 25% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, this 98 Monforte (Barolo). Menthol, new leather, 95 flower and perfumed berry aromas mingle wine has structure as well as more rounded black pressed rose and forest berry aromas shape the with whiffs of dark culinary spice and forest floor. fruits from the Merlot. It conveys lightness, with a enticing nose on this knockout red. Thoroughly Tightly knit and loaded with finesse, the full-bodied fresh feel to the balance of tannins and black-cur- delicious, the captivating, focused palate doles out palate features juicy cherry, strawberry compote, rant flavors. It comes from a small enclave across succulent Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, truf- star anise and a hint of white pepper alongside taut, the Dordogne from Fronsac. Drink from 2021. Mon- fle and tobacco while a minty note lingers on the polished tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. long finish. Firm, fine-grained tannins and bright Drink 2022–2030. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Editors’ abv: 12.5% Price: $15 acidity provide beautiful balance and ageworthy Choice. —K.O. structure. Drink 2024–2041. Porto Vino Italiano. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Château Lapinesse 2018 Cuvée Prestige Cellar Selection. —K.O. 88 (Graves). Ripe Merlot gives this wine rich- abv: 13.5% Price: $90 Paolo Scavino 2016 Bricco Ambrogio ness and a dense texture, while the 40% Cabernet 94 (Barolo). Fragrant blue flower, exotic spice, Sauvignon contributes a more nuanced structure. Paolo Scavino 2016 Monvigliero (Barolo). toasted notes and menthol aromas mingle with The result is a full wine that needs time, with tan- 97 Iris, woodland berry, menthol and exotic scents of fruitcake. Full bodied and concentrated, nins still intact while promising rich black fruits in spice scents shape the enticing nose. It’s firm and the palate doles out fleshy black cherry, steeped the future. Drink from 2021. Road Cru. —R.V. elegantly structured, delivering red cherry, spiced prune, and chocolate-covered coconut alongside abv: 14% Price: $30 cranberry and licorice before a minty finish. Fine- enveloping, velvety tannins before a drying, almost grained tannins and fresh acidity lend balance and salty close. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. support. Hold for even more complexity. Drink abv: 15% Price: $62 PIEDMONT 2026–2036. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Paolo Scavino 2016 Carobric (Barolo). Aro- BAROLO abv: 14.5% Price: $73 94 mas of camphor, fragrant purple flowers and exotic spice waft out of the glass. On the elegantly Paolo Scavino 2016 Cannubi (Barolo). Brezza 2016 Cannubi (Barolo). Aromas of structured palate, notes of licorice, orange zest and 99 Perfumed berry, fragrant purple flowers, 96 rose petal, perfumed berry and menthol a hint of truffle accent a core of juicy black cherry. chopped mint and baking spice are just some of the are front and center on this elegant, fragrant red. Polished tannins provide seamless support. Drink aromas you’ll find on this drop-dead gorgeous wine. Loaded with finesse, the focused, full-bodied palate through 2028. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. Impeccably balanced, structured, and loaded with combines grace and structure, delivering succulent abv: 15% Price: $76 finesse, it boasts a smooth texture, doling out juicy red cherry, raspberry compote, white pepper and Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, licorice and star anise alongside bright acidity and youthfully Paolo Scavino 2016 Prapò (Barolo). Men- white pepper alongside a backbone of polished tan- taut, refined tannins. It’s radiant. Drink 2024– 94 thol, iris, new leather and dark spice aro- nins and fresh acidity. Drink 2024–2036. Skurnik 2036. Coeur Wine Co. Cellar Selection. —K.O. mas shape the nose. Full bodied and concentrated, Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $67 the palate delivers mature Morello cherry, blood abv: 15% Price: $96 orange, licorice and white pepper alongside taut, La Ca’ Nova 2017 Montefico (Barolo). Loaded close-grained tannins before an espresso close. Sandrone 2014 Vite Talin (Barolo). The 96 with personality, this full-bodied red has Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. 99 newest addition to the firm’s iconic offer- earthy aromas of camphor, fragrant blue flowers, abv: 15% Price: $73 ings, this is the result of 25 years of Sandrone’s tilled soil and spiced plum. Round and concen- experiments with very old Nebbiolo vines. It’s an trated, the savory palate offers juicy black cherry, Paolo Scavino 2016 Ravera (Barolo). Aromas impressive combination of power and finesse, open- licorice and tobacco accompanied by smooth, close- 94 of menthol, small red berry and espresso ing with aromas of smoke, woodland berry, cam- knit tannins. Dink 2022–2029. Weygandt-Metzler. mingle with fragrant purple flowers on this full- phor, wild herb, new leather and truffle. The chis- —K.O. bodied red. Elegantly structured, the palate offers eled palate boasts youthful tension, delivering juicy abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Marasca cherry, spiced cranberry, star anise and Marasca cherry, strawberry compote, tobacco and crushed mint set against firm, fine-grained tannins. tangy mineral set against a backbone of youthfully Principiano Ferdinando 2016 del Comune di Give it time to fully develop. Drink 2024–2031. austere but refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it 96 Serralunga d’Alba (Barolo). Rose petal, cam- Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. impeccably balanced. Hold on to this one and you’ll phor, perfumed berry and forest floor are just some abv: 14.5% Price: $73 be rewarded. Drink 2026–2056. Vintus LLC. Cellar of the aromas you’ll find on this gorgeous, radiant Selection. —K.O. red. It’s delicious and loaded with an earthy finesse, Ascheri 2016 Coste & Bricco (Barolo). Tilled abv: NA Price: $450 delivering succulent red cherry, ripe strawberry, 93 earth, new leather and baked plum aromas licorice, game and almost salty mineral notes. Taut, mix with whiffs of pressed purple flowers on this Paolo Scavino 2016 Bric del Fiasc (Barolo). refined tannins and fresh acidity keep it impeccably full-bodied red. Reflecting the nose, the earthy, 98 What a gorgeous showing. It opens with balanced. Drink through 2031. Porto Vino Italiano. robust palate features dried black cherry, stewed heady aromas of menthol, forest berry, iris and new Editors’ Choice. —K.O. prune, clove and tobacco alongside tightly knit, leather while the enveloping, full-bodied palate abv: 13.5% Price: $58 close-grained tannins. Drink 2024–2032. Mar- delivers raspberry compote, ripe Marasca cherry, tignetti Companies. —K.O. licorice and baking spice before a minty finish. Bric Cenciurio 2015 Coste di Rose (Barolo). abv: 15% Price: $150 Enveloping, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity 95 Enticing aromas of rose petal, leather and provide perfect balance. Thanks to the ripe, juicy wild herb lead the way on this full-bodied red. The Lodali 2016 Bricco Ambrogio (Barolo). Aro- fruit, you’d never guess this had an abv of 15%. juicy, savory palate delivers raspberry jam, ripe 93 mas of red-skinned berry, forest floor and Morello cherry, star anise and tobacco alongside clove lead the way. The juicy, balanced palate fea- tures fresh red cherry, star anise and tobacco along-

110 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 side youthful, fine-grained tannins and bright acid- fine-grained tannins. Drink 2023–2028. Cuvée aromas lead the nose. The firm, elegant palate ity. Drink 2024–2032. Vino Veritas. —K.O. Imports. —K.O. offers cranberry, clove and white pepper alongside abv: 14.5% Price: $52 abv: 14.5% Price: $55 dusty tannins. Drink 2024–2031. AP Wine Imports. —K.O. Oddero 2014 Bussia Riserva (Barolo). New Cascina Ballarin 2016 Bricco Rocca (Barolo). abv: 14.5% Price: $60 93 leather, stewed cranberry, camphor and 92 Aromas of black-skinned berry, vanilla and exotic spice aromas lead the way. On the linear, star anise form the nose. The full-bodied palate Eraldo Viberti 2016 Roncaglie (Barolo). This youthfully austere palate, taut, grainy tannins offers dried black cherry, clove and licorice along- 91 opens with aromas of red-skinned berry, and bright acidity accompany pomegranate, blood side fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink truffle and cooking spice. The full-bodied pal- orange and licorice. Drink after 2024. The Piedmont 2024–2032. Aventine Hill LLC. —K.O. ate offers raspberry compote, tobacco and licorice Guy. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 alongside tightly wound tannins and fresh acidity. abv: 14% Price: $120 Drink 2025–2032. T. Elenteny Imports. —K.O. Castello di Verduno 2013 Monvigliero Riserva abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Pietro Rinaldi 2015 Monvigliero (Barolo). 92 (Barolo). Rose, red berry, camphor and 93 Pressed rose, camphor and forest berry aro- exotic spice aromas shape the nose. On the youth- Gianni Gagliardo 2016 Castelletto (Barolo). mas are front and center on this fragrant red. It’s full fully austere, chiseled palate, tightly wound, fine- 91 Rose, forest berry, camphor and espresso bodied and concentrated, offering juicy red cherry grained tannins support tart sour cherry, pome- aromas form the nose. On the firmly structured pal- marinated in spirits, ground clove and tobacco granate, licorice and tobacco while bright acidity ate, tightly wound, close-grained tannins support alongside enveloping, fine-grained tannins. Drink provides balance. Drink 2023–2033. Polaner Selec- Marasca cherry, blood orange, licorice and tobacco 2022–2030. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. tions. —K.O. alongside bright acidity. Give the tannins time to abv: 14.5% Price: $80 abv: 14% Price: $112 fully unwind. Drink after 2026. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2016 Terlo Vigna Costa Gianni Gagliardo 2016 Serra dei Turchi abv: 14.5% Price: $120 93 Grimaldi (Barolo). Aromas of iris, rose 92 (Barolo). Aromas of underbrush, ripe berry and fruitcake form the nose along with a whiff of and purple flowers form the delicate nose along La Carlina 2016 Bricco Carlina (Barolo). Neb- eucalyptus. On the firmly structured, full-bodied with a whiff of camphor. The enveloping palate 91 biolo aromas of red woodland berry, pressed palate, fresh acidity and tightly knit, fine-grained offers fleshy Marasca cherry, tobacco and licorice rose and camphor mingle with a whiff of under- tannins support dried black cherry, truffle and alongside smooth, polished tannins. Drink 2022– brush. On the full-bodied, rather accessible pal- tobacco before a clenching finish. Give it time to 2030. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. ate, tightly knit, polished tannins support dried fully unwind. Drink 2026–2036. Empson USA Ltd. abv: 14.5% Price: $1300/1.5 L red cherry, spiced cranberry and star anise. Drink —K.O. 2022–2028. Grape Expectations (CA). —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $123 Marchesi di Barolo 2012 Riserva (Barolo). abv: 14.5% Price: $40 92 This opens with aromas of black-skinned San Biagio 2016 Capalot (Barolo). Rose berry, eucalyptus and a whiff of cedar. The savory, Alberto Voerzio 2015 La Serra (Barolo). Ini- 93 petal, woodland berry, pipe tobacco and balanced palate offers dried black cherry, clove and 90 tially shy, the nose eventually reveals cam- baking spice aromas unfold in the glass. The savory, tobacco alongside fine-grained tannins and firm phor, French oak and a whiff of crushed rose. The balanced palate offers raspberry jam, star anise acidity. Drink 2021–2030. Frederick Wildman & firmly structured, austere palate mirrors the nose, and clove set against youthful, polished tannins Sons, Ltd. —K.O. offering coconut, toasted hazelnut and dried cherry and fresh acidity. Drink 2024–2033. Votto Vines abv: NA Price: $NA alongside assertive, close-grained tannins that leave Importing. —K.O. a lean, mouthdrying close. Despite the tannic back- abv: 14% Price: $75 San Biagio 2016 Bricco San Biagio (Barolo). bone, drink sooner rather than later to capture the 92 Red-skinned berry, rose petal and leather remaining fruit. Passionné de Vin Imports. —K.O. Alberto Voerzio 2016 Castagni (Barolo). aromas lead the way. The juicy, polished palate abv: 14.5% Price: $80 92 Coconut, French oak and woodland berry offers red cherry, tobacco and eucalyptus alongside aromas lead the way along with a whiff of rose. taut, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. Drink Alessandro Rivetto 2016 Barolo. Subtle aro- On the linear palate, star anise and espresso notes 2024–2032. Votto Vines Importing. —K.O. 90 mas of eucalyptus, tilled herb and red berry accent sour cherry and blood orange alongside taut, abv: 14% Price: $80 form the delicate nose. It’s linear and already almost fine-grained tannins. Passionné de Vin Imports. accessible, offering sour cherry, star anise and a —K.O. San Biagio 2015 Sorano (Barolo). Earthy hint of rusty nail alongside dusty, drying tannins. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 92 aromas of new leather, underbrush and Drink 2022–2028. Wine Universe Corp. —K.O. dark-skinned berry emerge from the glass. The abv: 14% Price: $50 Bric Cenciurio 2013 Coste di Rose Riserva structured palate offers ripe blackberry, star anise 92 (Barolo). Leather, culinary spice, dark- and tobacco alongside chewy tannins and firm Attilio Ghisolfi 2012 Ciabot Minat Riserva skinned berry and cedar aromas take center stage. acidity. Drink 2023–2030. Votto Vines Importing. 90 (Barolo). Balsamic aromas of camphor min- The structured palate offers dried black cherry, —K.O. gle with leather, toasted hazelnut, mature plum and ground clove and white pepper notes alongside abv: 14% Price: $80 underbrush. Full bodied and concentrated, the pal- taut, polished tannins. Drink 2022–2030. Tavolo ate offers dried cherry, steeped prune, tobacco and Vigneto. —K.O. Anna Maria Abbona 2016 Bricco Ambrogio dried sage alongside fine-grained tannins that leave abv: 14% Price: $90 91 (Barolo). Aromas of mature dark-skinned a firm, drying close. Quintessential Wines. —K.O. fruit, cedar and baking spice emerge from the glass. abv: 14.5% Price: $150 Camparo 2016 Boiolo (Barolo). Aromas of The taut palate offers black plum, clove and licorice 92 toasted hazelnut, camphor and underbrush alongside close-grained tannins. Drink 2024–2030. Demarie 2015 Barolo. Aromas of camphor, mingle together in the glass along with a whiff of Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O. 90 baked plum, dark spice and blue flowers rose. Made with organically grown grapes, the lin- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA waft out of the glass. On the rounded, solid palate, ear, full-bodied palate offers ripe Marasca cherry, firm tannins accompany ripe black cherry, rasp- blood orange and tobacco accompanied by firm, Crissante 2016 del Comune di La Morra 91 (Barolo). Tobacco, camphor and rose petal

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BUYINGGUIDE berry and tobacco. Drink 2022–2027. Uva Imports. alongside sandy tannins. Drink 2021–2028. Mon- alongside assertive tannins. Drink after 2023. J. —K.O. sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. Strecker Selections. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $80

Francone 2016 Barolo. Rose, red berry and Col dei Venti 2016 Debutto (Barolo). Sub- Gianni Gagliardo 2016 Mosconi (Barolo). Aro- 90 camphor aromas shape the nose along 88 dued aromas of baking spice, scorched 87 mas of coconut and French oak carry over to with a whiff of forest floor. On the full-bodied pal- earth and cedar slowly emerge from the glass. The the assertive, austere palate along with unripe cran- ate, solid tannins support ripe Morello cherry, star straightforward palate offers dried sage, nutmeg and berry, espresso and licorice. It doesn’t have enough anise, tobacco and a dollop of vanilla. Drink 2022– black plum alongside grainy tannins. Drink after fruit richness to stand up to the aggressive, grainy 2028. Cherio Holding & Trading. —K.O. 2023. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O. tannins that clench the astringent finish. Enotec abv: 14.5% Price: $42 abv: 14% Price: $NA Imports, Inc. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $113 Gianni Gagliardo 2016 Lazzarito Vigna Preve Crissante 2016 Galina (Barolo). This opens 90 (Barolo). This has a shy nose that eventu- 88 with aromas of mocha, toasted oak and ally reveals camphor, resin and underbrush. The camphor. The brawny palate offers prune, roasted BARBARESCO youthfully austere palate shows dried cherry, blood coffee bean and tobacco alongside assertive tannins orange, tobacco and vanilla alongside fresh acidity that lead to an astringent finish. Drink after 2023. Cantina del Pino 2016 Ovello (Barbaresco). while firm, grainy tannins grip the finish. Enotec AP Wine Imports. —K.O. 98 Rose, iris, woodland berry and crushed Imports, Inc. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 mint aromas shape the irresistible nose on this radi- abv: 14.5% Price: $143 ant, classy red. Showing a remarkable combination Eraldo Viberti 2016 Barolo. Aromas of of structure, elegance and pedigree, the delicious, Pertinace 2016 Barolo. Rose, graphite and 88 espresso, cedar and tobacco emerge from focused palate delivers juicy red cherry, raspberry 90 menthol aromas lead the way along with a the glass. The dense palate offers prune, licorice and compote, star anise and an almost salty minerality whiff of forest berry. On the smooth, already acces- roasted coffee alongside assertive tannins that cre- while firm but ultrarefined tannins provide seam- sible palate, polished, fine-grained tannins accom- ate a rather astringent finish. T. Elenteny Imports. less support. Bright acidity bestows impeccable bal- pany dried cherry, star anise and a hint of tobacco. —K.O. ance and youthful tension. Drink 2024–2036. Vin- Drink through 2026. Freixenet Mionetto USA. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 ity Wine Company. Cellar Selection. —K.O. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Gianni Gagliardo 2016 Barolo. This has sub- 88 dued aromas suggesting coffee bean and Cascina delle Rose 2016 Rio Sordo (Bar­ Achille Viglione 2014 Durè Riserva (Barolo). coconut with a whiff of menthol. On the solid, one- 97 baresco). Opening with enticing aromas of 89 Aromas of leather, dark-skinned fruit and dimensional palate, firm, grainy tannins accompany fragrant purple flowers, spiced cranberry and cam- grilled herb emerge from the glass. The linear pal- dried cherry, clove and espresso before a drying phor with a whiff of new leather, this is an abso- ate offers cherry marinated in spirit, clove and sage close. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. lutely gorgeous wine. The delicious palate takes up alongside tightly knit tannins. Drink 2021–2028. H. abv: 14.5% Price: $58 where the nose leaves off, delivering juicy Morello Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. —K.O. cherry, raspberry compote, licorice and cinnamon. abv: 14% Price: $NA Gianni Gagliardo 2016 del Comune di La Polished tannins and fresh acidity keep it elegant 88 Morra (Barolo). The shy nose eventually and balanced. Drink 2022–2029. Vinity Wine Com- Giacosa Fratelli 2015 Bussia (Barolo). Violet, reveals oak-driven sensations, hazelnut and under- pany. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. 89 tilled soil and cooking spice aromas lead the brush along with a whiff of pine resin. The firm pal- abv: 14% Price: $60 nose. The linear palate offers sour cherry, clove and ate starts off with sour cherry, cranberry and star mocha alongside solid, tightly wound tannins. Drink anise before assertive, grainy tannins rear up, creat- Bruno Rocca 2016 Rabajà (Barbaresco). Fra- 2023–2028. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. ing an extremely astringent, mouthdrying close that 96 grant, structured and loaded with finesse, abv: 14.5% Price: $65 truncates the finish. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. this delicious red opens with enticing aromas of abv: 14.5% Price: $83 iris, perfumed berry and baking spice. Smooth and Gianni Gagliardo 2016 Monvigliero (Barolo). concentrated, it has a weightless elegance and com- 89 Aromas of vanilla, menthol, dark-skinned Gianni Gagliardo 2016 Fossati (Barolo). pelling tension, featuring succulent Marasca cherry, berry and underbrush lead the nose. On the aus- 88 Subdued aromas of coconut, camphor and raspberry compote and licorice framed in taut, pol- tere palate, assertive, close-grained tannins support toasted notes mingle with underbrush. Firmly ished tannins and fresh acidity. It’s well balanced licorice, incense and notes of tart sour cherry before structured but lean in terms of fruit richness, the and already tempting, but hold for even more com- a tight, clenching finish. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. palate shows sour cherry, espresso and powdered plexity. Drink 2024–2036. Soilair Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $140 sage set against assertive, grainy tannins that clench abv: 14.5% Price: $103 the finish. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. San Biagio 2015 Rocchettevino (Barolo). abv: 14.5% Price: $113 Cantina del Pino 2016 Albesani (Bar­ 89 Subdued aromas evoking underbrush, 96 baresco). Camphor, tilled soil, rose and French oak and violet slowly emerge from the glass. Neirano 2016 Barolo. The shy nose eventu- wild red berry aromas slowly take shape along with The assertive palate offers sour cherry, sage and 88 ally reveals tilled soil, cooking spice and graphite. The radiant palate seamlessly combines orange peel alongside grainy tannins that leave a dark-skinned fruit. The tight, linear palate offers structure and elegance, featuring juicy Morello rather astringent finish. Drink 2024–2029. Votto cherry marinated in spirits, ground clove and pow- cherry, spiced cranberry, star anise and thyme Vines Importing. —K.O. dered sage alongside grainy tannins. Drink after alongside tightly wound, fine-grained tannins. abv: 14% Price: $75 2023. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. Bright acidity provides balance and an ageworthy abv: 14% Price: $40 structure. Drink 2024–2036. Vinity Wine Com- Cantina del Nebbiolo 2015 Riserva (Barolo). pany. Cellar Selection. —K.O. 88 This has aromas evoking white pepper, Pelassa 2016 San Lorenzo di Verduno abv: 14% Price: $60 cedar and grilled herb. The straightforward, full- 88 (Barolo). Aromas of espresso, cedar and bodied palate offers tart cranberry, mocha and clove pipe tobacco lead the nose. The dense palate offers Cantina del Pino 2016 Gallina (Barbaresco). blackberry jam, roasted coffee bean and coconut 96 Another gorgeous showing from this hard-

112 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 working estate, this opens with heady aromas of cranberry, star anise and tobacco framed in tightly whiffs of truffle and crushed mint. Full bodied and camphor, woodland berry and violet along with knit, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2023–2030. elegantly structured, the smooth, delicious palate a whiff of exotic spice. Elegantly structured and Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. boasts juicy black cherry, crushed raspberry, star radiant, the precise palate features succulent red abv: 14.5% Price: $75 anise and Alpine herb alongside velvety tannins. cherry, cranberry and licorice alongside the barest Surprisingly fresh acidity for the hot vintage keeps hint of espresso. Firm, fine-grained tannins and Sottimano 2016 Basarin (Barbaresco). it beautifully balanced. Drink 2021–2029. LLS– bright acidity provide balance and an ageworthy 96 Focused and full bodied, this has aromas Winebow. —K.O. structure. It’s still youthfully austere and will ben- of underbrush, eucalyptus, crushed botanical herb abv: 14.5% Price: $65 efit with more cellaring. Drink 2024–2041. Vinity and wild rose. The chiseled palate delivers ten- Wine Company. —K.O. sion, structure and finesse, featuring cranberry, La Ca’ Nova 2017 Barbaresco. Heady scents abv: 14% Price: $60 pomegranate, licorice and tobacco framed in tightly 95 of iris, violet, wild berry and crushed aro- wound, fine-grained tannins. Youthfully nervous matic herb lead the nose on this fragrant red along Castello di Neive 2017 Albesani Santo Ste­ acidity gives it balance and an ageworthy struc- with whiffs of new leather and underbrush. Full 96 fano (Barbaresco). For full review see page ture. Drink 2024–2036. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Cellar bodied and delicious, the firm palate features juicy 3. Editors’ Choice. Selection. —K.O. Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, baking spice abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $75 and star anise framed in youthfully assertive, fine- grained tannins. Drink 2023–2030. Weygandt- La Ca’ Nova 2017 Montestefano (Bar­ Ada Nada 2017 Rombone Elisa (Barbaresco). Metzler. —K.O. 96 baresco). Enticing, earthy aromas of iris, 95 Full bodied and fragrant, this boasts heady abv: 14.5% Price: $NA camphor and dark-skinned berry mingle with truf- aromas of red rose, wild berry, pipe tobacco and new fle, leather and wild herb on this full-bodied red. leather. On the enveloping, delicious palate, taut, Michele Chiarlo 2017 Asili (Barbaresco). Hailing from one of the best sites in Barbaresco, velvety tannins accompany juicy Marasca cherry, 95 Fragrant and loaded with personality, it’s firmly structured and incredibly delicious, spiced cranberry and star anise before closing on this opens with heady scents of violet, camphor, delivering raspberry compote, ripe Marasca cherry, a crushed mint note. Drink 2022–2032. Rosenthal tilled earth and wild berry. On the savory palate, tobacco and licorice alongside youthfully assertive, Wine Merchant. Cellar Selection. —K.O. taut, fine-grained tannins accompany dried black noble tannins. With its Barolo-like structure, this abv: 14.5% Price: $NA cherry, crushed raspberry, thyme and star anise. It is one for cellaring. Drink 2025–2037. Weygandt- closes on an almost salty note. Drink 2023–2030. Metzler. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Cascina delle Rose 2017 Tre Stelle (Bar­ Kobrand. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 95 baresco). Delicate scents of rose petal, blue abv: 14% Price: $90 flowers, woodland berry and forest floor shape the Nada Giuseppe 2017 Casot (Barbaresco). nose along with whiffs of camphor and tobacco on Poderi Colla 2017 Roncaglie (Barbaresco). 96 Perfumed, full bodied and elegant, this this fragrant red. Loaded with elegance, the focused, 95 Underbrush, pressed rose, forest berry and gorgeous wine has enticing scents of iris, fragrant savory palate delivers juicy red cherry, blood orange camphor aromas shape the nose on this earthy, woodland berry, aromatic herb and baking spice. and licorice alongside taut, polished tannins. Drink elegant red. Linear and firmly structured, the pal- Made with organic grapes, the delicious, structured 2022–2029. Polaner Selections. —K.O. ate features red cherry, blood orange, licorice and a palate delivers juicy black cherry, raspberry com- abv: 24% Price: $60 hint of rusty nail set against taut, refined tannins. pote, licorice and crushed mint set against taut, Give it time to fully develop. Drink 2024–2030. The refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Castello di Verduno 2015 Rabajà Riserva Source Imports. —K.O. Drink 2021–2029. Vintage ’59 Imports. Editors’ 95 (Barbaresco). Camphor, scorched forest abv: 14% Price: $68 Choice. —K.O. floor and new leather aromas mingle with mature abv: 14.5% Price: $40 berry and violet. On the smooth, succulent palate, Rizzi 2017 Nervo (Barbaresco). Rose, violet fine-grained tannins support dried cherry, crushed 95 and perfumed berry aromas lead the nose Rizzi 2017 Pajorè (Barbaresco). Wild rose, black cherry, truffle and a hint of baking spice. followed by whiffs of camphor and culinary spice. 96 forest berry and camphor aromas mingle Drink 2022–2028. Polaner Selections. —K.O. Full bodied, supremely elegant and surprisingly with star anise on this fragrant, full-bodied red. abv: 14% Price: $60 fresh for the hot vintage, the savory palate delivers Combining structure and finesse, the delicious pal- ripe Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice and ate doles out ripe Marasca cherry, orange zest and Francesco Versio 2017 Barbaresco. Ripe crushed mint alongside taut, refined tannins. Fresh licorice alongside firm, polished tannins. A fantas- 95 raspberry, camphor and iris aromas form acidity keeps it impeccably balanced. Drink 2022– tic wine. Drink 2023–2032. The Sorting Table. Edi- the expressive nose along with whiffs of dark spice. 2032. The Sorting Table. —K.O. tors’ Choice. —K.O. Focused and elegantly structured, the luminous pal- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 ate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, cedar, star anise and a hint of tobacco framed in taut, refined tan- Rizzi 2017 Rizzi (Barbaresco). Mouthwater- Rizzi 2015 Vigna Boito (Barbaresco). Cam- nins. Artisanal Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. 95 ing aromas of ripe berry, baking spice and 96 phor, pipe tobacco, iris and mature black- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 crushed aromatic herb mingle with new leather and skinned fruit aromas shape the nose on this full- camphor on this inviting red. The delicious, ele- bodied red. Delicious and structured, the firm Gaja 2017 Barbaresco. Fragrant and refined, gantly structured palate doles out juicy red cherry, palate delivers succulent black cherry, raspberry 95 this opens with heady scents of wild berry, crushed strawberry and licorice set against pol- and licorice framed in firm, tightly knit but noble rose petal, camphor and underbrush. Elegantly ished, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2021–2029. The tannins. Drink 2023–2030. The Sorting Table. Cel- structured, the polished palate offers ripe Marasca Sorting Table. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. lar Selection. —K.O. cherry, blood orange and star anise framed in taut, abv: 14.5% Price: $43 abv: 14.5% Price: $95 fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2029. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. San Biagio 2017 Montersino (Barbaresco). Sottimano 2017 Pajorè (Barbaresco). Violet, abv: 14% Price: $250 95 Enticing aromas evoking new leather, black- 96 new leather, truffle and spiced plum are just skinned berry, camphor and blue flowers waft out some of the aromas you’ll find on this captivating Giuseppe Cortese 2017 Rabajà (Barbaresco). of the glass. Full bodied and delicious, the envelop- red. Full bodied and boasting youthful tension, the 95 Classic Nebbiolo aromas of rose, violet and ing palate doles out raspberry compote, fleshy Mar- linear palate delivers mature Morello cherry, spiced woodland berry shape the enticing nose along with asca cherry and baking spice framed in tightly knit,

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BUYINGGUIDE polished tannins. Drink 2022–2029. Votto Vines pomegranate, cinnamon and star anise alongside through 2027. AP Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. Importing. —K.O. taut, polished tannins. Drink 2022–2029. Polaner —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $70 Selections. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $36 abv: 14% Price: $35 Sottimano 2017 Cottà (Barbaresco). Blue Socré 2015 Roncaglie Riserva (Barbaresco). 95 flower, rose, camphor and baking spice La Spinona 2016 Secondine (Barbaresco). 94 Crushed rose petal, graphite, wild herb and aromas waft out of the glass. Juicy and delicious, 94 For full review see page 6. forest berry aromas emerge from the glass along the polished palate doles out juicy Marasca cherry, abv: 14% Price: $65 with a whiff of eucalyptus. Full bodied and rather crushed raspberry and star anise alongside taut, austere, the palate shows both concentration and fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2029. Skurnik Michele Chiarlo 2017 Faset (Barbaresco). finesse, offering dried cherry, blood orange, star Wines, Inc. —K.O. 94 Woodland berry, eucalyptus and blue anise and tobacco alongside assertive, close-grained abv: 14% Price: $75 flower aromas mingle with whiffs of new leather tannins that leave a drying close. Drink 2021–2027. and underbrush. Savory and juicy, the palate AP Wine Imports. —K.O. Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2017 Sanadaive offers fleshy raspberry, Morello cherry and baking abv: 14.5% Price: $75 94 (Barbaresco). Inviting aromas of ripe black- spice alongside a hint of game. Drink 2022–2029. skinned fruit, new leather and blue flowers with a Kobrand. —K.O. Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2017 Basarin (Bar­ whiff of menthol shape the nose. Chewy and savory, abv: 14% Price: $90 93 baresco). Fragrant blue flower, menthol and the palate doles out succulent Marasca cherry, woodland berry aromas appear in the glass. On the crushed raspberry and licorice alongside taut, fine- Musso 2017 Rio Sordo (Barbaresco). Under- focused, medium-bodied palate, tightly wound, grained tannins. Drink 2022–2029. Monsieur Tou- 94 brush, new leather, violet and mature for- close-grained tannins surround sour cherry, blood ton Selection Ltd. —K.O. est berry aromas lift out of the glass with a whiff orange and star anise. Give it a few more years to abv: 14% Price: $30 of menthol. On the full-bodied palate, tightly knit, fully develop. Drink 2023–2029. Monsieur Touton close-grained tannins support dried cherry, spiced Selection Ltd. —K.O. Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2015 Basarin cranberry and star anise alongside surprisingly abv: 14% Price: $35 94 Riserva (Barbaresco). Enticing aromas of fresh acidity for the hot vintage. A hint of espresso iris, mature red berry, crushed botanical herb and signals the close. Drink 2022–2029. Panebianco. Boffa 2017 Pajè (Barbaresco). Savory and new leather fill the glass. Full bodied and smooth, —K.O. 93 full bodied, this opens with aromas of ripe the taut palate offers mature Marasca cherry, spiced abv: 14.5% Price: $40 plum, underbrush and tobacco. The ripe palate is cranberry and tobacco framed in firm, fine-grained already rather accessible, showing dried cherry, tannins. Drink 2022–2027. Monsieur Touton Nada Giuseppe 2015 Casot Riserva (Bar­ mature cranberry and licorice alongside velvety Selection Ltd. —K.O. 94 baresco). Graphite, eucalyptus, rose and tannins. Drink 2021–2026. Glazer’s. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 wild berry aromas shape the alluring nose. The abv: 14.5% Price: $60 full-bodied, rather austere palate mirrors the nose, Cantina del Pino 2016 Barbaresco. Iris, men- offering dried cherry, blood orange, crushed herb Castello di Neive 2015 Albesani Santo Ste­ 94 thol, cranberry and exotic spice aromas and star anise alongside notes suggesting flinty 93 fano Riserva (Barbaresco). Underbrush, new take center stage. Elegant and focused, the fresh, mineral. Tightly knit, close-grained tannins provide leather and balsamic notes of camphor lead the nose polished palate doles our pomegranate, red cherry, support and lead to a firm finish. Drink 2022–2027. along with a whiff of prune. The full-bodied palate licorice and baking spice while sleek, fine-grained Vintage ’59 Imports. —K.O. shows the heat of the vintage but is still savory, tannins offer lithe support. Drink through 2031. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 offering dried cherry, marinated prune, licorice Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. and tobacco alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink abv: NA Price: $40 Prunotto 2017 Bric Turot (Barbaresco). Aro- through 2025 to capture the fruit richness. LLS– 94 mas of iris, woodland berry, wild herb and Winebow. —K.O. Cascina Alberta 2017 Giacone (Barbaresco). dark spice waft out of the glass. Focused and loaded abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 94 Intensely fragrant, this opens with aro- with finesse, the savory palate doles out juicy mas of white pepper, aromatic herb, blue flowers Morello cherry, spiced cranberry and star anise Figli Luigi Oddero 2017 Rombone (Bar­ and ripe wild berry. Boasting concentrated flavors before a savory, almost salty finish. Taut, polished 93 baresco). Mature black-skinned fruit, rose, of succulent black cherry, crushed raspberry, star tannins and fresh acidity keep it balanced. Drink eucalyptus and dark spice aromas emerge in the anise and baking spice, it shows finesse, thanks to 2022–2029. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. glass. Juicy and elegantly structured, the savory polished tannins. Fresh acidity and crushed mint abv: 13.5% Price: $70 palate doles out raspberry, strawberry compote and lift the finish. Drink through 2027. Cherio Holding star anise accompanied by taut, refined tannins. It & Trading. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. Prunotto 2017 Secondine (Barbaresco). has surprising freshness for the scorching vintage. abv: 14% Price: $39 94 Menthol, forest floor and wild berry aromas Drink 2022–2029. Ionia Atlantic Imports, LLC. with a whiff of clove appear in the glass. Full bod- —K.O. Castello di Neive 2017 Barbaresco. Ripe wild ied, enveloping yet elegant, the delicious, juicy pal- abv: 14% Price: $50 94 berry, violet and camphor aromas lead the ate delivers succulent Marasca cherry, fleshy rasp- way on this full-bodied, inviting red. On the savory berry, cinnamon and star anise set against refined Fontanabianca 2017 Barbaresco. Ripe dark- palate, assertive, close-grained tannins accompany tannins. Drink 2022–2029. Ste. Michelle Wine 93 skinned berry, pressed rose, new leather and dried cherry, blood orange and licorice before clos- Estates. —K.O. eucalyptus aromas form the nose. Chewy and full ing on a hint of coffee bean. Drink 2022–2027. LLS– abv: 14% Price: $80 of flavor, the taut palate shows concentrated black Winebow. —K.O. raspberry, mature Morello cherry and baking spice abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Socré 2017 Barbaresco. Underbrush, blue framed in fine-grained tannins. Drink 2021–2027. 94 flower, wild berry and new leather aromas Ethica Wines. —K.O. Castello di Verduno 2017 Barbaresco. Ripe form the nose along with a whiff of citrus zest. Full abv: 14% Price: $50 94 forest berry, fragrant blue flower, menthol bodied and enveloping, the palate boasts an earthy and baking spice aromas lift out of the glass along elegance, featuring succulent Marasca cherry, Giuseppe Cortese 2013 Rabajà Riserva (Bar­ with an earthy dose of underbrush. Savory and ele- crushed botanical herb, white pepper and a hint of 93 baresco). Aromas of underbrush, dried gant, the smooth palate offers ripe red cherry, juicy salted game alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink mint, hazelnut and prune lead the nose. The full-

114 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 bodied, classically crafted palate features juicy Prunotto 2017 Barbaresco. For full review cherry extract and tobacco framed in fine-grained Marasca cherry, baking spice and tobacco framed in 92 see page 13. Editors’ Choice. tannins. Drink 2021–2027. Panebianco. —K.O. taut, polished tannins while fresh acidity keeps it abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $32 well balanced. Drink through 2028. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. Bruno Rocca 2014 Currà Riserva (Barbaresco). Boffa 2017 Barbaresco. Aromas of pressed abv: 14.5% Price: $140 91 Truffle, espresso, hazelnut and blue flower 90 rose, scorched earth, underbrush and aromas emerge from the glass along with whiffs mature berry lead the way. The full-bodied palate Lodali 2017 Rocche dei 7 Fratelli (Bar­ of toasted oak. On the elegantly structured pal- is rather austere, offering dried cherry, prune, star 93 baresco). Aromas of blue flowers, red ber- ate, fine-grained tannins support red cherry, blood anise and the barest hint of game alongside asser- ries and menthol with a whiff of tilled soil lift out of orange, star anise and a hint of espresso. Bright tive, close-grained tannins that leave a lean, drying the glass. Full bodied and elegantly structured, the acidity keeps it balanced. Drink through 2026. Soil- close. Glazer’s. —K.O. linear palate features juicy red cherry, strawberry air Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 compote and tobacco alongside firm, fine-grained abv: 14.5% Price: $201 tannins. Drink 2023–2031. Vino Veritas. —K.O. Lodali 2017 Lorens (Barbaresco). Earthy abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Ceretto 2017 Asili (Barbaresco). Rose, red 90 aromas of new leather, underbrush and 91 berry and camphor aromas slowly shape the violet mingle with baked plum, vanilla and menthol Marchesi di Barolo 2016 Tradizione (Bar­ subtle nose along with a whiff of underbrush. Linear on this full-bodied red. Showing the heat of the 93 baresco). Fragrant purple flower, woodland and lean, the palate offers cranberry, blood orange vintage, the muscular palate offers dried cherry and berry, eucalyptus and exotic spice aromas mingle and star anise alongside assertive, close-grained tobacco alongside close-grained tannins that leave together on this fragrant red. The savory, linear pal- tannins that clench the finish. Drink 2022–2029. a bracing, mouthdrying finish. Vino Veritas. —K.O. ate boasts finesse and flavor, delivering juicy cherry, Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $72 blood orange and star anise framed in taut, fine- abv: 13.5% Price: $240 grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Pier 2012 Rio Sordo (Barbaresco). Aromas Drink 2022–2028. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Ceretto 2017 Bernardot (Barbaresco). This 90 suggesting stewed prune, blue flowers and —K.O. 91 offers aromas suggesting red berry, coco- camphor lead the nose along with a whiff of game. abv: NA Price: $45 nut, underbrush and menthol. On the focused, It’s concentrated and enveloping, offering mature rather austere palate, tightly wound, close-grained plum, fleshy black cherry, dried mint and a hint of Michele Chiarlo 2017 Reyna (Barbaresco). tannins accompany cranberry, pomegranate and baking spice alongside polished tannins. It’s already 93 This opens with aromas of scorched earth, roasted coffee bean before a lean, assertive finish. approachable. Drink through 2024. Mesk & Co. truffle, ripe black-skinned fruit and new leather. Give the tannins a few more years to unfurl, then —K.O. The smooth, chewy palate is loaded with personal- drink to capture the remaining fruit. Monsieur Tou- abv: 14% Price: $50 ity, doling out fleshy Morello cherry, licorice and a ton Selection Ltd. —K.O. hint of salted game alongside pliant, fine-grained abv: 13.5% Price: $150 Pier 2007 Piccola Emma Riserva (Bar­ tannins. Drink 2022–2027. Kobrand. —K.O. 90 baresco). Graphite, underbrush, scorched abv: 14% Price: $50 Fontanabianca 2017 Bordini (Barbaresco). earth and pressed violet aromas emerge from the 91 Iris, menthol, plum and sandalwood aromas glass along with a eucalyptus note. On the smooth, Rivetto 2017 Marcarini (Barbaresco). Wild are behind the delicate, alluring nose. The already medium-bodied palate, you’ll find dried cherry, star 93 berry, camphor, fragrant blue flower and accessible, smooth palate features dried cherry, anise and tobacco alongside seasoned, close-grained tilled soil aromas mingle with whiffs of star anise. blood orange, star anise and an espresso note. Lithe, tannins. Drink through 2023. Mesk & Co. —K.O. Made with organically farmed grapes, the taut pal- polished tannins offer polished support. Drink abv: 14% Price: $90 ate offers dried cherry, licorice and tobacco framed through 2027. Ethica Wines. —K.O. in tightly wound, close-grained tannins. Drink abv: 14% Price: $70 Pier Paolo Grasso 2016 La Fenice (Bar­ 2022–2029. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Editors’ Choice. 90 baresco). Blue flower, botanical herb and —K.O. Giuseppe Cortese 2017 Barbaresco. Aromas forest berry aromas lead the nose. Bright and savory, abv: 14.5% Price: $30 91 evoking scorched earth, blue flowers, cam- the polished, accessible palate offers juicy Marasca phor and tobacco mingle together. The full-bodied cherry, cranberry and baking spice alongside pol- Ada Nada 2017 Valeirano (Barbaresco). Blue palate features dried black cherry, blood orange, ished tannins. Drink 2021–2028. Mesk & Co. —K.O. 92 flower, crushed botanical herb, crushed licorice and a hint of espresso alongside firm, fine- abv: 14% Price: $40 berry and sunbaked earth aromas slowly take shape grained tannins. Drink 2021–2027. LLS–Winebow. in the glass. The compact, rather austere palate fea- —K.O. Pietro Rinaldi 2017 San Crsitoforo (Bar­ tures dried cherry, blood orange, licorice and a hint abv: 14.5% Price: $40 90 baresco). Opening with aromas suggesting of coffee bean alongside tightly wound, fine-grained stewed prune, blue flowers and spiced blueberry, tannins. Drink 2023–2028. Rosenthal Wine Mer- Michele Chiarlo 2017 Palas (Barbaresco). this full-bodied red reflects the heat of the vintage. chant. —K.O. 91 Earthy aromas of truffle, leather, dried herb It’s rounded and accessible but savory, featuring abv: 14.5% Price: $NA and game follow over to the rounded palate along baked plum, fleshy Marasca cherry and licorice fla- with mature black cherry, blood orange, clove and a vors alongside chewy tannins. Drink through 2027. Bel Colle 2017 Montersino (Barbaresco). salty note. Taut, close-grained tannins provide sup- Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. 92 Botanical herb, blue flower, rusty iron and port. Drink 2021–2029. Kobrand. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $46 new leather aromas come together on this full-bod- abv: 14% Price: $40 ied red. It’s linear and youthfully austere, showing Pietro Rinaldi 2015 Massirano (Barbaresco). mature black cherry, prune and star anise framed Musso 2017 Barbaresco. Blue flower, mature 90 Blue flower, underbrush and red berry aro- in firm, close-grained tannins. Drink 2023–2029. 91 black-skinned fruit and dark spice mingle mas mingle with a whiff of eucalyptus. On the firmly Quintessential Wines. —K.O. with balsamic notes of camphor on this full-bodied structured palate, tight, close-grained tannins sup- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 red. Concentrated yet still elegantly structured, the port dried cherry, star anise and roasted coffee bean chewy, accessible palate shows ripe black raspberry, before a firm finish. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

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Ceretto 2017 Barbaresco. Aromas suggest- Montaribaldi 2017 Palazzina (Barbaresco). 89 ing camphor, pipe tobacco and blue flowers 88 Underbrush, eucalyptus and rose aromas LOMBARDY waft out of the glass. On the lean and austere palate, lead the nose with a hint of hazelnut. On the taut, taut, fine-grained tannins support tart sour cherry, medium-bodied palate, cranberry, blood orange and LUGANA espresso and star anise. Monsieur Touton Selection star anise are accompanied by dusty but extremely Ltd. —K.O. drying tannins. Drink 2021–2027. Shiverick Selva Capuzza 2019 Selva (Lugana). Haw- abv: 13.5% Price: $70 Imports. —K.O. 92 thorne and white stone fruit aromas mingle abv: 14% Price: $25 with whiffs of wild herb on the savory white. On the Ressia 2017 Canova (Barbaresco). Fragrant medium-bodied palate, crisp acidity accompanies 89 purple flower and baked plum aromas La Vedetta 2017 Cà Grossa (Barbaresco). Blue ripe Bartlett pear, yellow apple and tangy citrus waft out of the glass along with a whiff of French 87 flower, baked plum and oak-driven spice before an almond and saline finish. Ambrosia Wine oak. Reflecting the nose, the medium-bodied pal- aromas lift out of the glass. On the one-dimensional Group. —K.O. ate offers dried cherry, blood orange and a dollop palate, solid but rather fleeting tannins accompany abv: 13% Price: $NA of vanilla alongside grainy but fleeting tannins that prune and ground clove. Five Star Fine Products. generate a rather lean, mouthdrying finish. Tra- —K.O. Cà dei Frati 2019 I Frati (Lugana). Aromas of dizione Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $76 91 mature pear, citrus and white spring flowers abv: 14% Price: $50 form the delicately enticing nose. The savory palate Montaribaldi 2017 Sorì Montaribaldi (Bar­ offers gooseberry, white peach and juicy grapefruit Alessandro Rivetto 2017 Montersino (Bar­ 87 baresco). This has subdued aromas suggest- alongside tangy acidity. It closes on a white almond 88 baresco). Pipe tobacco, forest floor and ing stewed prune and leather with a whiff of sun- note. Ethica Wines. —K.O. camphor aromas lead the nose along with a whiff baked soil. Reflecting the aromas, the evolved palate abv: 13% Price: $20 of coconut. On the subtle, not very persistent pal- appears tired, suggesting prune and dark spice set ate, dusty, drying tannins accompany prune, dried against grainy tannins that leave a lean, drying fin- Le Morette 2017 Riserva (Lugana). Mature cherry and a hint of vanilla. Wine Universe Corp. ish. Shiverick Imports. —K.O. 91 yellow stone fruit, toasted hazelnut and —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $30 dried herb aromas lead the nose along with a whiff abv: 14.5% Price: $NA of honey. The round, enveloping palate offers ripe Pier Paolo Grasso 1997 Piccola Emma Riserva yellow peach and lemon drop candy before a hon- Boffa 2017 Ovello (Barbaresco). Scorched 87 (Barbaresco). Aromas of scorched earth, eyed almond close. Uva Imports. —K.O. 88 earth, coconut, espresso and baked plum toasted nut, burnt rubber and stewed prune form abv: 13.5% Price: $35 aromas are front and center. The aromas carry the nose. On the evolved palate, grainy tannins over to the firm palate along with prune, vanilla accompany dried cherry, prune, rusty nail and a Perla del Garda 2019 Organic (Lugana). and tobacco set against grainy, astringent tannins. hint of nutmeg before a lean, mouthdrying finish 90 Enticing scents of spring blossoms, white Showing the heat of the vintage, it’s lean on fruit that grips the close. Despite the astringent tannins, stone fruit and citrus shape the delicate nose. Made richness, so despite the assertive tannins, drink drink sooner rather than later to capture what little with organic grapes, it’s fresh, savory and under- sooner rather than later before it dries out com- fruit remains. Wine by the Bay. —K.O. stated, offering ripe yellow pear, grapefruit and bit- pletely. Glazer’s. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $150 ter almond alongside tangy acidity. RWK Imports. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA —K.O. Rattalino 2017 Barbaresco. This opens with abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Enrico Serafino 2017 Sanavento (Bar­ 87 aromas of tobacco, violet and baked plum 88 baresco). Aromas suggesting forest floor, along with a whiff of scorched earth. The lean pal- Selva Capuzza 2019 San Vigilio (Lugana). prune and eucalyptus are at the forefront. The no- ate reflects the extreme heat of the vintage, offering 90 Spring wildflower and white stone fruit frills, straightforward palate offers dried cherry, suggestions of prune, clove and a gamy note along- aromas form the delicate, alluring nose. On the hazelnut and a hint of licorice accompanied by side grainy but fleeting tannins that leave a mouth- bright, tangy palate, fresh acidity accompanies yel- dusty tannins that dry out the finish. Dalla Terra drying close. Drink soon. Ribevi Wine Int. —K.O. low apple and white peach before a bitter almond Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $23 close. Artisan Wines, Inc. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Poderi Elia 2016 Serracapelli (Barbaresco). Giacosa Fratelli 2017 Basarin Vigna 86 This has aromas of weedy underbrush, used Selva Capuzza 2016 Menasso Riserva 88 Gianmatè (Barbaresco). Aged in bar- leather and moist soil. The lean palate is already 90 (Lugana). Lightly scented, this opens with riques, this opens with aromas of scorched earth, evolved, suggesting prune, blood orange and the whiffs of toasted hazelnut, beeswax and yellow blue flowers and French oak along with a whiff of barest hint of roasted coffee bean alongside grainy, apple. On the palate, hints of bitter almond and a burnt rubber. Reflecting the nose, the firm palate fleeting tannins. August Wine Group. —K.O. dollop of vanilla accent ripe pear and white peach. offers stewed prune, vanilla and coffee bean framed abv: 14% Price: $57 Fresh acidity lifts the finish. Artisan Wines, Inc. in close-grained, astringent tannins that leave a —K.O. firm, mouthdrying close. Despite the assertive tan- Villadoria 2017 Barbaresco. This is really abv: 13.5% Price: $30 nins, drink sooner rather than later to capture the 85 lightweight for Barbaresco, offering sug- remaining fruit. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. gestions of fleshy black cherry and a hint of spice. Allegrini 2018 Oasi Mantellina (Lugana). abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Loose, dusty and fleeting tannins provide the 89 Aromas of yellow stone fruit and beeswax relaxed, short framework. Drink now. WinesU. with a whiff of honey form the nose. The aromas Luca Bosio 2017 Barbaresco. This opens —K.O. follow over to the vibrant, medium-bodied palate 88 with aromas of used leather, blue flow- abv: 14% Price: $32 along with yellow apple and bitter almond accom- ers, underbrush and toasted hazelnut, while the panied by bright acidity. —K.O. straightforward palate offers dried cherry, coffee abv: 13% Price: $25 bean and hints of rusty nail. Dusty, rather fleeting tannins create a rather abrupt, drying finish. Quint- Cà dei Frati 2018 Brolettino (Lugana). Aro- essential Wines. —K.O. 89 mas of exotic fruit, hay and toasted nut abv: 14% Price: $37 shape the subtle nose. It racy and linear, offering

116 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 yellow apple, spearmint, citrus zest and hazelnut Aldegheri 2019 Le Querce (Lugana). Lightly an elegant perlage and fresh acidity. Artisan Wines, alongside vibrant acidity. Ethica Wines. —K.O. 87 scented, this tangy white has delicate aro- Inc. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 mas of green melon and white spring flowers. It’s abv: 12.5% Price: $30 fresh and easygoing, offering ripe pear, tropical fruit Perla del Garda 2019 Perla (Lugana). Hon- and a citrus note alongside bright acidity. Guidi 89 eysuckle and tropical fruit aromas lead the Marcello. —K.O. ROSATOS way on this bright, tangy white from the shores of abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Lake Garda. The juicy palate offers white peach and Selva Capuzza 2019 Chiaretto San Donino green melon before a white almond finish. RWK Santa Sofia 2019 Lugana. Tangy and fresh, 92 Rosé (Riviera del Garda Classico). A juicy Imports. —K.O. 87 this has aromas of white spring flowers and blend of Marzemino, Groppello, Sangiovese and abv: 12.5% Price: $NA tropical fruit. The bright palate offers honeydew Barbera, this delicious, copper-colored rosato has and citrus alongside vibrant acidity before a lemon heady aromas of spring wildflowers, stone fruit and Pratello 2019 90+10 (Lugana). Made with drop candy close. —K.O. Alpine herb. It’s bright and savory, offering juicy 89 90% Turbiana and 10% Chardonnay, this abv: 13% Price: $NA peach, tart cherry, white pepper and a hint of pink has aromas of acacia, toasted nut and yellow apple. grapefruit before a tangy, almost salty close. Artisan The flavors follow over to the vibrant palate along Seiterre 2019 Lugana. Aromas of grapefruit, Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. with peach, lemon drop candy and bitter almond. 87 elderflower and tropical fruit jump out of abv: 12% Price: $19 Beva Imports, LLC. —K.O. the glass. The grapefruit note carries over to the abv: 13% Price: $22 tangy palate along with ripe green melon and bright Cà dei Frati 2019 Rosa dei Frati Rosé (Riviera acidity. John Vestri. —K.O. 91 del Garda Classico). Tangy and delicious, this Pratello 2019 Catulliano (Lugana). Subtle abv: 13% Price: $18 vibrant rosato has inviting aromas of grapefruit, 89 scents of beeswax and acacia flower shape elderflower and grilled herb. On the dry, savory the nose along with a whiff of honey. The aromas Villabella 2019 Lugana. This has aromas of palate, crisp acidity and white pepper notes accent carry on to the palate along with ripe pear and white 87 honeysuckle and tropical fruit with a whiff ripe red cherry, peach and citrus zest. Ethica Wines. almond, all set against tangy acidity. Beva Imports, of hay. On the rounded palate, tangy acidity accom- Editors’ Choice. —K.O. LLC. —K.O. panies passion fruit and banana before closing on a abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 note of bitter almond. Lentino Imports. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Pasini San Giovanni 2019 Il Chiaretto di Una Menegotti 2019 Lugana. This has floral and 90 Notte (Valtènesi). Made with organically 88 fruity aromas of hawthorn and exotic fruit. Monte Zovo 2019 Le Civaie (Lugana). This grown grapes, this dry, racy rosé has delicate aro- On the lively palate, bright acidity accompanies yel- 86 simple white has subtle aromas of hon- mas of yellow spring flowers and summer orchard low pear, honeydew and white almond. Vignaioli eysuckle and passion fruit. The fruity palate mir- fruit with a whiff of wild herb. The vibrant, savory Selection. —K.O. rors the nose, offering tropical fruit and honeydew palate offers juicy strawberry, red cherry and a hint abv: 13.5% Price: $18 alongside tangy acidity. It closes on a bitter almond of fennel seed alongside crisp acidity. Coeur Wine note. Monte Zovo USA. —K.O. Co. —K.O. Monte Cicogna 2018 Imperiale (Lugana). abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 12.5% Price: $22 88 White spring blossom and Bartlett pear aromas waft out of the glass. On the tangy palate, Tommasi 2019 Il Fornaci (Lugana). Aromas Pratello 2019 Riva del Garda Classico crisp acidity accompanies ripe yellow apple, honey- 86 suggesting ripe pear and exotic fruit shape 88 Sant’Emiliano (Valtènesi). Inviting aromas dew and Meyer lemon before a white almond close. the delicate nose. Mirroring the nose, the simple suggest a potpourri of wild red berries and spring The Harvest Importing. —K.O. palate offers yellow apple and honeydew accompa- blossoms. It’s bright and tangy, showing juicy sour abv: 13.5% Price: $NA nied by lively acidity. Vintus LLC. —K.O. cherry, cranberry and a hint of white pepper framed abv: 12.5% Price: $20 in crisp acidity. Beva Imports, LLC. —K.O. Monte Cicogna 2018 S. Caterina (Lugana). abv: NA Price: $16 88 Lightly scented, this has aromas of yellow Tinazzi 2019 Tarciso (Lugana). This has a flowers, yellow stone fruit and citrus. The aromas 85 shy nose that eventually reveals whiffs of follow on to the crisp palate along with lemon drop spring flowers and the barest hint of tropical fruit. VALTELLINA SUPERIORE candy and bitter almond. Lively acidity keeps bright On the extremely simple, light-bodied palate, fresh and fresh. The Harvest Importing. —K.O. acidity accompanies suggestions of peach and bitter Arpepe 2009 Sassella Rocce Rosse (Valtel­ abv: 13.5% Price: $NA almond. Caput Mundi Wine Import. —K.O. 98 lina Superiore). Underbrush, camphor, for- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA est berry and a potpourri of botanical herbs lead Pasini San Giovanni 2019 Il Lugana (Lugana). the way on this stunning wine. The chiseled, savory 88 Made with organically farmed grapes, this Villa Girardi 2019 Lugana. The shy nose palate is loaded with finesse and intriguing tension, offers alluring aromas of spring blossoms and white 85 doesn’t give much away, while the informal, doling out pomegranate, blood orange, licorice and stone fruit with a whiff of nut. It’s fresh and tangy, rather diluted palate suggests citrus and pear. It truffle while flinty mineral adds depth. Firm, refined with pear and green melon flavors before an almond closes on a bitter note. Petrea Imports. —K.O. tannins and bright acidity provide the elegant back- close. Coeur Wine Co. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $19 bone. Drink through 2034. USA Wine West. Cellar abv: 12.5% Price: $22 Selection. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $110 Perla del Garda 2019 Ora (Lugana). Lightly SPARKLING WINE 88 scented, this has aromas of white stone Arpepe 2009 Grunello Buon Consiglio fruit and spring blossoms with a whiff of grilled Selva Capuzza NV Metodo Classico Brut 97 (Valtellina Superiore). All about elegance herb. It’s crisp and light bodied, evoking flavors of 91 Hirundo (Lugana). Aromas of bread crust and and energy, this gorgeous Nebbiolo has invigorat- white peach and green melon alongside racy acidity. white stone form the inviting nose. On the bright, ing scents of Alpine herb, wild red berry, dog rose RWK Imports. —K.O. savory palate, tangy acidity accompanies ripe yellow and smoky flint with a whiff of new leather. Focused abv: 12% Price: $NA apple, creamy Bartlett pear and hazelnut alongside and boasting great energy, the vibrant palate deliv- ers wild strawberry, red cherry, tobacco and a saline

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BUYINGGUIDE mineral note set against a backbone of taut, refined acidity. Drink through 2026. USA Wine West. tannins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced and youth- —K.O. PINOT GRIGIO fully tense. Drink through 2034. USA Wine West. abv: 13% Price: $49 —K.O. Venica & Venica 2019 Ronco del Cerò Pinot abv: 13% Price: $110 93 Grigio (Collio). Classic varietal aromas of VALTELLINA crushed tomato vine, exotic fruit and wild herb Arpepe 2009 Sassella Vigna Regina Riserva almost jump out of the glass. On the vibrant, savory 97 (Valtellina Superiore). Fragrant and loaded Arpepe 2017 Rosso (Valtellina). Aromas of palate, tangy acidity underscores pineapple, grape- with finesse, this radiant red opens with entic- 92 dark-skinned berry, eucalyptus, star anise fruit and green melon, while an energizing mineral ing scents of woodland berry, forest floor, smoky and graphite fill the glass with this mountain Neb- note evoking saline lingers on the finish. Grand Cru flint and wild Alpine herb. The still youthful pal- biolo. Fresh and focused, the savory palate doles out Selections. —K.O. ate shows tension and finesse, featuring ripe sour ripe Morello cherry, black raspberry, Alpine herb abv: 13.5% Price: $28 cherry, strawberry compote, tobacco and a mineral and white pepper before an almost salty mineral vein of graphite. Firm, refined tannins and bright close. Polished tannins and bright acidity provide Jermann 2019 Pinot Grigio (Friuli). For full acidity lend balance and structure, while an almost freshness and finesse. Drink through 2027. USA 92 review see page 12. salty saline note lingers on the close. Drink through Wine West. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $30 2034. USA Wine West. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $110 Venica & Venica 2019 Jesera Pinot Grigio 92 (Collio). This copper-colored wine has a Arpepe 2009 Grumello Sant’Antonio Riserva NORTHEAST ITALY perfumed nose evoking spring wildflowers and 95 (Valtellina Superiore). Camphor, wild rose white stone fruit with whiffs of wild herb. The and red berry aromas mingle with botanical herb. PINOT BIANCO savory palate features juicy peach, white cherry Taut and focused, the palate has structure and and ginger notes alongside tangy acidity. Grand Cru precision, delivering dried cherry, blood orange, Castello di Spessa 2018 Santarosa Pinot Selections. —K.O. star anise and a hint of clove set against a vein of 92 Bianco (Collio). Aromas of white stone fruit abv: 13.5% Price: $24 savory mineral. It’s balanced, with tightly wound, and spring blossoms mingle together in the glass fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. USA Wine along with a delicate scent of fresh bread dough. Schiopetto 2018 Pinot Grigio (Collio). Aromas West. —K.O. Elegant and savory, the polished, precise palate 91 evoking hawthorn and cantaloupe mingle abv: 13.5% Price: $110 delivers ripe apple, pear and creamy white peach with scents of Alpine herb on this savory, struc- before a hint of white almond graces the finish. tured Pinot Grigio. On the rounded palate, fresh Arpepe 2015 Sassella Stella Retica (Valtel­ Bright acidity keeps youthfully tense and fresh. Vias acidity lifts mature pear, Rennet apple and a hint 93 lina Superiore). Woodland berry, camphor, Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. of nectarine. It closes on a saline note. Golden State wild rose and wet stone aromas shape the nose. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Wine Co. —K.O. The chiseled palate delivers red cherry, cranberry, abv: 13% Price: $30 Alpine herb and star anise set against taut, ultra- Villa Russiz 2018 Pinot Bianco (Collio). Aro- fine tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 92 mas of freshly baked bread align with ripe Borgo Conventi 2018 Pinot Grigio (Collio). 2022–2030. USA Wine West. —K.O. yellow apple, botanical herb and citrus on this 90 Aromas of spring blossoms waft out of the abv: 13% Price: $59 rounded white. Notes of cedar and a hint of ginger glass. Bright and savory, the palate doles out ripe accent a core of creamy Bartlett pear before a white Bartlett pear, lemon drop candy and an inviting hint Arpepe 2009 Inferno Sesto Canto (Valtel­ almond close. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. of bread dough alongside tangy acidity. Folio Fine 93 lina Superiore). The balsamic, fragrant nose abv: 13% Price: $25 Wine Partners. —K.O. expresses this wine’s mountain origins and grape abv: 13.5% Price: $19 variety, offering graphite, dried Alpine herb, pressed Ferruccio Sgubin 2018 Pinot Bianco (Collio). rose and forest berry. Featuring elegance and ten- 91 Aged partly in tonneaux, this polished white Castello di Spessa 2018 Joy Pinot Grigio sion, the focused palate show juicy Marasca cherry, has alluring aromas of spring blossoms, ripe white 90 (Collio). Aromas of white stone fruit and ripe strawberry, star anise and a hint of tobacco orchard fruit and dried botanical herb. It’s both chamomile shape the nose along with a yeasty whiff before a flinty mineral close. It’s well balanced, creamy and crisp, showing white peach, yellow pear of bread crust. On the racy palate, crisp acidity with taut, refined tannins and fresh acidity. Drink and a dollop of vanilla alongside vibrant acidity. accompanies mature pear, white cherry and a dol- through 2034. USA Wine West. —K.O. Bacchus Cellar. —K.O. lop of vanilla before an almond close. Vias Imports. abv: 13% Price: $110 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Arpepe 2015 Grumello Rocca de Piro (Valtel­ Kettmeir 2019 Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). For 92 lina Superiore). Initially shy, the subtle nose 91 full review see page 16. Editors’ Choice. Ferruccio Sgubin 2018 Pinot Grigio (Collio). eventually reveals new leather, Alpine herb and abv: 13.5% Price: $20 90 Aromas of elderflower and green melon lead wild berry. The savory palate has an understated the nose along with a hint of hay. On the medium- elegance, offering Marasca cherry, pomegranate and Schiopetto 2018 Pinot Bianco (Collio). Span- bodied palate, a note of honeyed almond accompa- graphite alongside refined tannins. Drink through 91 ish broom and white stone fruit aromas form nies mature pear and ripe apple. Tangy acidity lifts 2027. USA Wine West. —K.O. the inviting nose along with a whiff of dried botani- the finish. Bacchus Cellar. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $59 cal herb. Savory and polished, the mouthwatering, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 elegant palate features creamy pear, white peach Arpepe 2016 Il Pettirosso (Valtellina Supe­ and lemon drop candy alongside tangy acidity. Gradis’ciutta 2018 Pinot Grigio (Collio). 92 riore). Bright and tangy, this fragrant wine It closes on a white almond note. One of the best 90 Lightly scented, this vibrant white offers offers head scents of red rose, pine forest, wet flint recent vintages I’ve had from the estate. Golden delicate aromas of white stone fruit and spring and Alpine herb. Vibrant and savory, the racy pal- State Wine Co. —K.O. wildflowers. It’s racy and chiseled, featuring apple, ate has lovely mineral energy and tension, doling abv: 13% Price: $30 pear and ginger flavors before a crisp, mineral fin- out juicy Marasca cherry, ground clove and a hint of ish. Vineyard Brands. —K.O. hazelnut alongside taut, refined tannins and bright abv: 13.5% Price: $22

118 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Kettmeir 2019 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). For honeydew. Bright acidity keeps it fresh and tangy. Castelvecchio 2019 Sauvignon (Carso). 90 full review see page 20. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. 93 Enticing varietal aromas of grapefruit, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA crushed tomato leaf and botanical herb propel out of the glass. The racy, elegant palate shows La Rajade 2018 Pinot Grigio (Collio). Bees- Monte Zovo 2019 Wolhlgemuth Pinot Gri­ more restraint, delivering green melon, the same 90 wax, fresh pollen and white stone fruit 87 gio (Delle Venezie). Made with organically grapefruit note from the nose, graphite and fen- aromas waft out of the glass. The tangy, polished farmed grapes and packaged in an extremely heavy nel. Vibrant acidity adds to the compelling mineral palate offers mature Bartlett pear, yellow apple and bottle, this has aromas of tropical fruit and green tension that keeps you coming back for more. Friuli citrus drop candy before an almond close. TC Fine apple. On the racy, rather lean palate, crisp acidity Italian Wines. —K.O. Imports. —K.O. accompanies suggestions of green melon, Granny abv: 14% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $18 Smith apple and a hint of citrus. Monte Zovo USA. —K.O. Borgo Conventi 2018 Sauvignon (Collio). For Ronco dei Tassi 2019 Pinot Grigio (Collio). abv: 13% Price: $17 92 full review see page 11. Editors’ Choice. 90 Aromas of hawthorn, white stone fruit and abv: 13.5% Price: $19 green melon jump out of the glass along with a whiff Pighin 2019 Pinot Grigio (Collio). Subtle of bread dough on this expressive white. Round and 87 aromas evoking beeswax and spring flow- Castello di Spessa 2018 Segrè Sauvignon juicy, the bright palate offers ripe pear, honeydew ers form the delicate nose. On the linear palate, 92 (Collio). Varietal aromas of elderflower, and lemon drop candy before a bitter almond close. bright acidity accompanies mature yellow pear and crushed tomato vine, citrus and botanical herb It’s a savory expression of Pinot Grigio. Indigenous a savory, saline-like mineral note. Kobrand. —K.O. shape the nose. Crisp and savory, the racy palate Selections. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 features grapefruit, white peach, aniseed and a abv: 13.5% Price: $25 saline mineral note alongside vibrant acidity. Vias Tenuta di Angoris 2018 Pinot Grigio (Collio). Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. Villa Russiz 2018 Pinot Grigio (Collio). 87 Delicate scents of spring wildflowers, white abv: 13.5% Price: $22 90 Spring blossom and summer orchard fruit stone fruit and a hint of nut form the subtle nose. aromas are front and center. On the savory, linear On the palate, bright acidity accompanies pear, can- Gradis’ciutta 2018 Sauvignon (Collio). Elder- palate, tangy acidity accompanies Bartlett pear, died tangerine slice and bitter almond. MS Walker. 92 flower, grapefruit and gooseberry aromas Granny Smith apple and white peach before a white —K.O. mingle in the glass along with a whiff of hay. The almond close. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 grapefruit note carries on to the savory, medium- abv: 13% Price: $23 bodied palate along with honeydew, pineapple and Ascevi Luwa 2018 Pinot Grigio (Collio). This rosemary. Crisp acidity gives it a juicy, tangy close. Primosic 2019 Pinot Grigio (Collio). This 86 has a shy nose that eventually offers mere Vineyard Brands. —K.O. 89 has subtle aromas suggesting spring blos- whiffs of yellow wildflowers and white stone fruit. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 soms and orchard fruit. On the medium-bodied The palate is also subdued, suggesting mature peach palate, tangy acidity accompanies honeydew and before a bitter almond close. Quintessential Wines. Ronco Blanchis 2019 Sauvignon (Collio). green apple before a bitter almond close. Massanois —K.O. 92 Classic varietal aromas of exotic fruit, elder- Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $18 flower, hay and crushed tomato vine almost leap out abv: 13% Price: $18 of the glass. Crisp and savory, the tangy palate deliv- Villa Girardi 2019 Pinot Grigio (Delle Vene­ ers grapefruit, ripe yellow apple and lemon thyme Ronco Blanchis 2019 Pinot Grigio (Collio). 86 zie). Banana and elderflower aromas leap to before an almost salty close. Arte Vino. —K.O. 89 Ripe white stone fruit and spring blossom the forefront. The banana note follows on the tangy abv: 13.5% Price: $25 aromas waft out of the glass on this medium-bodied palate along with green apple and tangy acidity. It’s white along with a whiff of sea breeze. The vibrant simple but well-made. Montcalm Wine Importers. Schiopetto 2018 Sauvignon (Collio). Classic palate offers ripe pear, saline and white almond —K.O. 92 varietal aromas of grapefruit and crushed alongside tangy acidity. Arte Vino. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $19 tomato leaf with a whiff of exotic fruit waft out of abv: 14% Price: $20 the glass. On the vibrant, medium-bodied palate, Tommasi 2019 Le Rosse Pinot Grigio (Delle bright acidity accompanies juicy citrus, white peach Sturm 2019 Pinot Grigio (Collio). White 85 Venezie). This simple white has a shy nose and green melon before a savory saline close. Golden 89 spring blossoms and Granny Smith apple offering whiffs of spring flowers and white stone State Wine Co. —K.O. waft out of the glass along with an inviting, subtle fruit. It’s bright and informal, offering suggestions abv: 13% Price: $30 whiff evoking bread dough. Bright and savory, the of green apple and citrus alongside brisk acidity. medium-bodied palate shows Bartlett pear, green Vintus LLC. —K.O. Sturm 2019 Sauvignon (Collio). Honey- melon and citrus zest alongside tangy acidity. abv: 12% Price: $18 92 suckle, citrus and graphite aromas shape Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. the fragrant nose. Tangy and savory, the linear pal- abv: 13% Price: $24 ate delivers juicy grapefruit, pear and green melon SAUVIGNON alongside notes of vanilla and hay. Vibrant acidity Vigna del Lauro 2019 Pinot Grigio (Col­ and a hint of saline signal the close. Skurnik Wines, 89 lio). Spring blossom, ripe orchard fruit Jermann 2019 Sauvignon (Venezia Giulia). Inc. —K.O. and botanical herb aromas form the inviting nose. 94 Elderflower, hay, wild herb and crushed abv: 13% Price: $24 Round and medium bodied, the dry palate shows tomato vine align with juicy green melon aromas Bartlett pear, apple and a hint of white almond on this radiant white. The palate is both savory Conti Formentini 2019 Caligo Sauvignon (Col­ accompanied by tangy acidity. Indigenous Selec- and elegant, doling out ripe white peach, honeydew 91 lio). Varietal aromas of tomato vine, grape- tions. —K.O. and pineapple alongside crisp acidity. A mineral fruit and exotic fruit are front and center on this abv: 13.5% Price: $22 note evoking saline wraps up the close. LUX Wines. fragrant, fresh white. The grapefruit aroma marches —K.O. on to the savory palate along with creamy white Cantina Produttori di Cormons 2019 Pinot Gri­ abv: 13% Price: $34 peach, green melon and a hint of ginger. Frederick 87 gio (Collio). Aromas of banana and Granny Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. Smith apple follow over the palate along with ripe abv: 13.5% Price: $18

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BUYINGGUIDE

Ronco dei Tassi 2019 Sauvignon (Collio). This tangy mineral finish suggesting saline. Crisp acidity medium-bodied white has aromas of white and 91 bright, elegant white has rather restrained keeps it vibrant and focused. Drink through 2025. yellow stone fruit, honey and a hint of nut. On the varietal aromas evoking hawthorn, hay, citrus and Jan D’Amore Wines. —K.O. savory palate, bright acidity lifts ripe yellow pear, wild herb. It’s racy and tangy, featuring white grape- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 crushed mint and ginger before finishing on a bitter fruit, green melon and flinty mineral flavors along- almond note. Vias Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. side crisp acidity. Indigenous Selections. —K.O. Castelvecchio 2019 Malvasia (Carso). Entic- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 92 ing scents of botanical herb, wet stone, gera- nium and orchard fruit lift out of the glass. Savory Primosic 2019 Friulano (Collio). Inviting aro- Villa Russiz 2018 de la Tour Sauvignon (Col­ and fresh, the focused palate doles out ripe pear, 92 mas of grapefruit, hay, white stone fruit and 91 lio). Subtle aromas suggesting hay, elder- apple and lemon thyme before a tangy, flinty min- thyme lead the nose. The aromas carry on to the flower, grapefruit and crushed tomato leaf form the eral finish. It’s made with organically farmed grapes. savory, elegant palate along with yellow pear and nose. The full-bodied palate has a smooth, glycerin- Friuli Italian Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. tangy saline. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced and like texture that cushions ripe green melon, goose- abv: 13.5% Price: $23 tense. Massanois Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. berry and fennel before a saline close. Wilson Dan- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 iels Ltd. —K.O. Ronco dei Tassi 2019 Malvasia (Collio). Aro- abv: 14% Price: $23 91 mas of yellow stone fruit, Alpine herb and Schiopetto 2018 Friulano (Collio). Aromas wet stone shape the nose. Reflecting the aromas, the 92 of hazelnut, acacia flower, honey and white La Ponca 2018 Sauvignon (Collio). Exotic medium-bodied, rounded palate offers peach, yel- stone fruit shape the nose on this elegant white. On 90 fruit and hay aromas mix with hints of low apple and mature grapefruit before a flinty fin- the savory, focused palate, bright acidity accompa- crushed tomato vine on this full-bodied white. It’s ish. Tangy acidity keeps it juicy. Indigenous Selec- nies mature Bartlett pear, botanical herb and a hint ripe and enveloping, with flavors evoking grapefruit, tions. —K.O. of graphite before an almond finish. Golden State fennel and the warmth of alcohol alongside tangy abv: 14% Price: $28 Wine Co. —K.O. acidity. Tradizione Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Ronco Blanchis 2019 Malvasia (Collio). 90 Enticing scents of yellow stone fruit, gera- Borgo Conventi 2018 Friulano (Collio). For full Ferruccio Sgubin 2018 Sauvignon (Col­ nium and citrus form the delicate, alluring nose. 91 review see page 15. 89 lio). Aromas of crushed tomato leaf, hay On the savory, focused palate, racy acidity and abv: 13% Price: $19 and elderflower lift out of the glass. On the crisp, energizing mineral accompany tangerine, lime zest medium-bodied palate, vibrant acidity accompanies and saline before a white almond close. Arte Vino. Gradis’ciutta 2018 Friulano (Collio). Aromas white grapefruit, Alpine herb and pineapple before —K.O. 91 of spring blossoms and white stone fruit a saline close. Bacchus Cellar. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 form the nose along with a whiff of cantaloupe. Lin- abv: 14% Price: $25 ear and racy, the palate offers ripe pear, lemon drop Schiopetto 2018 Malvasia (Collio). Yel- candy and a hint of hazelnut alongside vibrant acid- La Rajade 2018 Sauvignon (Collio). This 90 low spring flower, Meyer lemon and white ity. Vineyard Brands. —K.O. 88 has aromas evoking graphite, grapefruit stone fruit aromas form the delicate nose along abv: 12.5% Price: $22 and botanical herb. The aromas march on to the with a whiff of thyme. On the savory, vibrant palate, racy palate along with a hint of dried pineapple and hazelnut and bread dough notes accent ripe yellow Livon 2018 Manditocai Friulano (Collio). Aro- mature yellow apple skin before a fennel finish. TC pear and white peach before a tangy mineral close 91 mas of yellow apple, spring blossoms and Fine Imports. —K.O. suggesting briny oyster shell. Golden State Wine Co. grapefruit form the delicate nose. The aromas fol- abv: 13% Price: $18 —K.O. low over to the savory, structured palate along with abv: 13% Price: $30 lemon drop candy, orange zest and a hint of ginger. Vigna del Lauro 2019 Sauvignon (Collio). Vibrant acidity brightens the rich flavors. Angelini 88 Racy and linear, this crisp white has sub- La Ponca 2018 Malvasia (Collio). Botanical Wine. —K.O. dued aromas of white spring flowers, white stone 88 herb, hazelnut and ripe exotic fruit aromas abv: 14% Price: $40 fruit and citrus. On the bright palate, vibrant acid- form the nose. On the full-bodied palate, fennel, ity accompanies grapefruit, crushed herb and green thyme and evident alcohol accompany dried apri- Ronco dei Tassi 2019 Friulano (Collio). Deli- melon. Indigenous Selections. —K.O. cot before an almost salty mineral close. Tradizione 91 cate scents evoking yellow peach, citrus, abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Imports. —K.O. and spring blossom aromas come together on this abv: 14.5% Price: $25 savory, enveloping white. The fresh, medium-bod- Cantina Produttori di Cormons 2019 Sau­ ied palate shows ripe pear, grapefruit, apricot and 87 vignon (Collio). Lightly scented, the nose a hint of fresh bread dough alongside tangy acidity. evokes tropical fruit and elderflower. It’s linear and FRIULANO It closes on a hazelnut note. Indigenous Selections. light-bodied, suggesting honeydew and white peach —K.O. alongside racy acidity. —K.O. Raccaro 2018 Rolat Friulano (Collio). Yel- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $NA 93 low spring flowers, apricot and crushed botanical herb waft out of the glass on this savory Venica & Venica 2019 Primarul Friulano (Col­ white, along with yeasty, inviting whiffs of fresh 91 lio). Delicate aromas of spring field flowers MALVASIA bread dough. The enveloping, medium-bodied pal- and white stone fruit form the nose along with ate picks up where the nose left off, delivering ripe whiffs of chamomile and nut. Reflecting the aromas, Raccaro 2018 Malvasia (Collio). Full bod- pear, unsweetened lemon drop candy, saline and the round palate offers ripe Bartlett pear, yellow 93 ied and loaded with finesse and flavor, this white almond alongside tangy acidity. A fennel note apple and a hint of grapefruit alongside tangy acid- opens with inviting aromas evoking Spanish broom, lingers on the finish. Jan D’Amore Wines.Editors’ ity. A bitter almond note signals the close. Grand crushed herb and mature white stone fruit along Choice. —K.O. Cru Selections. —K.O. with a whiff of bread dough. The full-bodied, savory abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $26 palate has the structure of a red wine along with a weightless finesse, delivering ripe yellow apple, Castello di Spessa 2018 Rassauer Fri­ Conti Formentini 2019 Friulano (Collio). white pepper, fennel and lemon thyme before a 92 ulano (Collio). Delicious and vibrant, this 90 Hawthorn, hay and tomato leaf mingle

120 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 with citrus aromas on this inviting, medium-bodied delicate scents of white stone fruit and spring flow- white. On the savory palate, notes of thyme, sage ers. On the juicy palate, fresh acidity lifts ripe pear, WHITE BLENDS and fennel accent ripe yellow pear and lemon drop apple, white peach and fennel before finishing on a candy before a honeyed almond close. Fresh acidity tangy mineral note suggesting oyster shell. Freder- Jermann 2018 Vintage Tunina (Venezia keeps it bright and focused. Frederick Wildman & ick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. 95 Giulia). For full review see page 5. Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $70 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Zuani 2018 Sodevo Ribolla Gialla (Collio). Raccaro 2018 Bianco (Collio). Made with Ferruccio Sgubin 2018 Friulano (Collio). 91 Lovely aromas of white spring flowers mingle 95 Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon and Ribolla Gialla, 90 Aromas of hay and tropical fruit mix with with pear and a whiff of freshly baked bread. Racy this delicious white has enticing scents of spring whiffs of elderflower and crushed tomato leaf. On and elegant, the savory palate offers ripe apple, blossoms and white stone fruit with citrusy notes. the racy palate, crisp acidity accompanies juicy white peach and citrusy notes alongside vibrant Rounded, full bodied and enveloping, the savory grapefruit, green melon and wild herb before a acidity. It has a crisp, pristine close. T. Edward palate doles out creamy white peach, mature apple clean, dry close. Bacchus Cellar. —K.O. Wines Ltd. —K.O. and grapefruit alongside crushed herb and ginger abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $19 notes set against fresh acidity. A saline note ener- gizes the close. Jan D’Amore Wines. —K.O. La Ponca 2018 Friulano (Collio). Aromas Primosic 2016 Ribolla di Oslavia Riserva abv: 14.5% Price: $35 90 of grapefruit and graphite interlace on the 90 Ribolla Gialla (Collio). Fermented and aged nose of this wine. On the savory, medium-bodied in Slavonian oak, this fragrant, amber-colored wine Zuani 2018 Vigne (Collio). Delicately palate, a hint of honey accents ripe pear and bit- opens with aromas of graphite, cedar, dried yellow 93 scented, this has soft aromas of white ter almond set against tangy acidity. Tradizione stone fruit and saffron. The understated, structured spring flowers, white stone fruit and botanical herb. Imports. —K.O. palate shows elegance and restraint, featuring dried Vibrant and elegant, the racy palate offers peach, abv: 13% Price: $25 apricot, orange zest, saline and a sprinkling of gin- Meyer lemon and ripe pear alongside crisp acidity ger before a honeyed almond close. Fans of orange before a tangy mineral close. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Vigna del Lauro 2019 Friulano (Collio). Aro- wine will love it. Massanois Imports. —K.O. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. 90 mas of mature yellow stone fruit, grapefruit abv: 14% Price: $38 abv: 13% Price: $24 and beeswax mingle together in the glass. Mirroring the nose, the medium-bodied, savory palate fea- Ferruccio Sgubin 2018 Ribolla Gialla (Collio). Gradis’ciutta 2017 Bratinis Bianco (Collio). tures ripe apricot, peach and hazelnut before finish- 89 Spring blossom, yellow apple and hazelnut 90 Subtle aromas evoking freshly baked bread, ing on a honeyed note. Fresh acidity accompanies aromas waft out of the glass. The aromas carry on ripe tropical fruit, citrus zest and toasted nut shape the rich flavors. Indigenous Selections. —K.O. to the vibrant, focused palate alongside yellow pear the delicate nose. On the rounded, medium-bodied abv: 13.5% Price: $22 and a hint of Meyer lemon. It’s crisp, with racy acid- palate, notes of lemon drop candy and bitter almond ity. Bacchus Cellar. —K.O. accent a core of ripe yellow apple and dried grape- Ferruccio Sgubin 2016 Collio Friulano (Col­ abv: 13% Price: $20 fruit slice. Vineyard Brands. —K.O. 89 lio). Aromas of honey, acacia and cedar form abv: 13.5% Price: $25 the nose together with a whiff of summer orchard La Rajade 2018 Ribolla Gialla (Collio). Yel- fruit. The racy, linear palate features mature yellow 89 low spring wildflower, botanical herb and Gradis’ciutta 2016 Riserva (Collio). A blend apple and toasted hazelnut alongside vibrant acid- white stone fruit aromas lead the nose. On the racy 90 of Friulano, Malvasia and Ribolla Gialla, ity. It closes on a tangy saline note. Bacchus Cellar. palate, crisp acidity accompanies yellow apple and this opens with aromas of acacia flower, ripe yellow —K.O. unsweetened lemon drop candy before closing on a stone fruit, citrus zest and hazelnut. Fermented in abv: 14% Price: $25 hint of white almond. TC Fine Imports. —K.O. large casks, the wine has a full-bodied palate offer- abv: 13% Price: $18 ing butterscotch, coconut, ripe yellow apple and a La Rajade 2018 Friulano (Collio). Graphite, honeyed almond note. This is a complex white made 89 acacia, hazelnut and honey aromas follow Ronco dei Tassi 2019 Ribolla Gialla (Venezia to accompany first and second courses as opposed over to the focused palate together with ripe apri- 89 Giulia). Lightly scented, this opens with to a fresh aperitivo. Vineyard Brands. —K.O. cot, bitter almond and a hint of grapefruit. Vibrant delicate aromas of spring field flowers and white abv: 14% Price: $43 acidity provides the setting. TC Fine Imports. —K.O. stone fruit. On the vibrant palate, crisp acidity abv: 13% Price: $18 accompanies ripe yellow pear, white peach and a Jermann 2018 Where Dreams Have No End hint of ginger. Indigenous Selections. —K.O. 90 (Venezia Giulia). For full review see page Primosic 2016 Skin Friulano (Collio). Oak, abv: 13% Price: $28 20. 87 toasted hazelnut and graphite aromas slowly abv: 13% Price: $70 take shape in the glass. The aromas follow over to La Ponca 2018 Ribolla Gialla (Collio). Heady the amber-hued palate along with vanilla and but- 88 scents evoking spring blossoms and sum- Primosic 2015 Klin Bianco (Collio). A blend terscotch before a bitter almond close. It’s medium mer orchard fruit waft out of the glass along with a 90 of Friulano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon and bodied but lacks fruit richness. Massanois Imports. whiff of wild herb. The lean, linear palate suggests Ribolla Gialla, this has subtle aromas of pressed yel- —K.O. apple, citrus and a dollop of acacia honey along- low field flowers, oak, dried tropical fruit and cedar. abv: 13% Price: $29 side a backbone of racy acidity. Tradizione Imports. It was aged for two years in Slavonian oak barrels, —K.O. and the palate offers dried yellow peach, mature abv: 12.5% Price: $NA yellow apple, saline and a dollop of vanilla alongside RIBOLLA GIALLA fresh acidity. It closes on a roasted coffee bean note. Sturm 2019 Ribolla Gialla (Collio). Aromas Massanois Imports. —K.O. Jermann 2019 Vinnae Ribolla Gialla (Venezia 88 of honeysuckle and banana are front and abv: 14% Price: $35 92 Giulia). For full review see page 13. center. The banana note carries on to the racy pal- abv: 12.5% Price: $34 ate along with green melon and Granny Smith apple Ronco Blanchis 2017 Blanc de Blanchis set against crisp acidity. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. 90 Riserva (Collio). Made with Friulano, Char- Conti Formentini 2019 Raiante Ribolla Gialla abv: 12.5% Price: $24 donnay, Malvasia and Sauvignon, this has aromas of 91 (Collio). Fresh and medium bodied, this has hazelnut and summer orchard fruit with whiffs of

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BUYINGGUIDE cedar. On the linear, medium-bodied palate, fresh Franchetto 2017 Recorbian (Soave). Subtle acidity accompanies mature Golden Delicious apple, 91 aromas of spring blossoms and yellow stone SPARKLING WINE Bartlett pear and grapefruit before closing on a bit- fruit escape the glass. On the enveloping, medium- ter almond note. Arte Vino. —K.O. bodied palate, fresh acidity lifts ripe peach, apricot Bortomiol 2018 Rive San Pietro di Barbozza abv: 14% Price: $35 and tangy lemon drop candy before closing on a 94 Grande Cuvée del Fondatore Motus Vitae savory saline note. J. Strecker Selections. Editors’ Brut (Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore). It may a Ronco dei Tassi 2018 Fosarin Bianco (Collio). Choice. —K.O. mouthful to pronounce, but once you score a bottle, 90 Graphite, yellow apple and freshly baked abv: 13% Price: $21 it’s so worth it. It opens with delicate but alluring bread aromas escape the glass. On the medium- scents of white spring flowers and orchard fruit, but bodied, elegantly structured palate, vibrant acidity Gradis’ciutta 2018 Chardonnay (Collio). it’s the palate that steals the show. Boasting green accompanies yellow peach, lemon drop candy and 90 Spring blossom, banana and white stone apple, ripe pear and creamy white peach, it’s bone- grapefruit before a toasted almond close. Indig- fruit aromas lift out of the glass. Made with organi- dry, with crisp acidity and a white almond close. An enous Selections. —K.O. cally farmed grapes, it’s crisp and tangy, offer- elegantly foaming mousse provides finesse. Wine abv: 13.5% Price: $32 ing yellow pear, mature golden apple and a hint of Warehouse Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. lemon drop candy alongside bright acidity. Vineyard abv: 12% Price: $24 Russiz Superiore 2016 Col Disôre (Collio). Brands. —K.O. 90 For full review see page 20. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $45 ROSATOS Cantina Produttori di Cormons 2019 Char­ Livon 2019 Solarco Bianco (Collio). A blend 89 donnay (Collio). Peach blossom, banana and Le Morette 2019 Classico (Bardolino Chi­ 89 of Friulano and Ribolla Gialla, this has aro- white stone fruit aromas form the expressive nose. 89 aretto). White stone fruit and wild berry mas of French oak, spring blossoms and ripe yellow Round and medium bodied, the palate offers ripe aromas lead the way. Reflecting the nose, the vibrant apple. On the medium-bodied palate, crisp acidity Golden Delicious apple, yellow pear and a hint of palate doles out juicy strawberry, white peach and supports white grapefruit, mature pear and bitter white almond alongside fresh acidity. —K.O. honeydew alongside crisp acidity. A white pepper almond before a butterscotch close. Angelini Wine. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA note signals the close. Uva Imports. —K.O. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Villa Russiz 2014 Grafin de la Tour Char­ 89 donnay (Collio). Aromas of vanilla, pastry Albino Piona 2019 Bardolino Chiaretto. This La Rajade 2016 Caprizi Riserva (Collio). This dough and toasted oak waft out of the glass along 88 opens with aromas evoking peach blossom, 88 opens with aromas of coconut, French oak with a whiff of orchard fruit. On the medium-bod- ripe orchard fruit and a whiff of red berry. It’s easy and grapefruit. The aromas follow over to the palate ied palate, racy acidity accompanies toasted hazel- drinking and savory, offering sour cherry, white along with butterscotch, saline and bitter almond nut, yellow apple, citrus zest and a hint of saline. peach and citrus zest alongside crisp acidity before set against firm acidity. TC Fine Imports. —K.O. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. an almost salty close. VOS Selections. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 14% Price: $70 abv: 12.5% Price: $16

Tenuta di Angoris 2017 Locatelli Riserva Primosic 2016 Gmajne Chardonnay (Col­ Giovanna Tantini 2019 Rosé (Bardolino Chi­ 88 Bianco (Collio). Aromas of yellow stone 88 lio). Fermented in barriques, this has sub- 88 aretto). Aromas of honeysuckle, citrus and fruit, thyme and graphite lead the nose. Reflecting tle, enticing aromas suggesting white stone fruit, honeydew lead the nose on this bright rosato. The the aromas, the rounded palate offers dried apricot, vanilla, toast and cedar. The structured palate is aromas carry over to the tangy palate along with saline and a bread crust note alongside soft acidity. lean on fruit richness, offering instead toasted nut, white peach and a hint of red berry. It closes crisp MS Walker. —K.O. butterscotch, lemon zest and saline alongside crisp and clean. Ethica Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 acidity and the barest hint of mature yellow apple. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Massanois Imports. —K.O. Zuani 2017 Riserva (Collio). A blend of equal abv: 14.5% Price: $29 Monte Zovo 2019 Bardolino Chiaretto. Red 88 parts Friulano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon and 86 berry and spring wildflower aromas lift out Pinot Grigio, this has aromas of French oak, vanilla Ronco Blanchis 2018 Particella 3 Chardon­ of the glass. On the tangy palate, vibrant acidity and white and yellow stone fruit. Lean and racy, 88 nay (Collio). Racy and full bodied, this opens accompanies sour cherry and pomegranate before a the firm palate offers hazelnut, mature yellow apple with delicate aromas evoking white stone fruit, yel- crisp close. Monte Zovo USA. Best Buy. —K.O. skin and butterscotch alongside bright acidity. T. low wildflowers, cedar and citrus. The understated abv: 12.5% Price: $11 Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. palate offers yellow apple, a hint of green melon and abv: 14% Price: $37 a dollop of vanilla alongside firm acidity before clos- Santa Sofia 2019 Classico (Bardolino Chi­ ing on a toasted note. Arte Vino. —K.O. 86 aretto). Delicate aromas of red berry and abv: 14.5% Price: $35 spring wildflowers waft out of the glass. Simple but OTHER WHITE WINES well-made, the bright palate offers raspberry and Gianni Tessari 2019 Soave. Aromas of spring strawberry alongside crisp acidity. —K.O. Castelvecchio 2019 Vitovska (Carso). Made 87 blossoms and pear form the delicate nose, abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 93 with organically farmed Vitovska, a native while the fresh, enjoyable palate offers yellow apple grape grown in Friuli’s Carso denomination, this and white peach. A bitter almond note signals the Villabella 2019 Classico (Bardolino Chi­ racy white offers aromas of ripe apple, lemon thyme close. Rapp Wine Selections. —K.O. 86 aretto). This has a shy nose that eventually and wet stone along with a whiff of fresh honey. abv: 12% Price: $19 reveals whiffs of spring flowers and almond. On the Racy and focused, the dry palate delivers Bartlett easygoing palate, crisp acidity accompanies sug- pear, white peach, unsweetened lemon drop candy Lenotti 2019 Soave Classico. Aromas of gestions of apricot and sour cherry. It’s simple but and savory mineral set against vibrant acidity. 87 honeysuckle and white stone fruit waft out well-made. Lentino Imports. —K.O. Great tension. Friuli Italian Wines. Editors’ Choice. of the glass. The fresh, tangy palate offers mature abv: 12% Price: $NA —K.O. white peach and honeydew before closing on a note abv: 12.5% Price: $23 of bitter almond. Giuliana Imports. —K.O. Antica Corte 2019 Bardolino Chiaretto. The abv: 12.5% Price: $13 85 shy nose eventually reveals whiffs of spring

122 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 wildflowers while the light-bodied, informal palate and citrus aromas mingle with a whiff of wet stone. Meyer lemon, saline and wild herb set against racy offers hints of sour cherry and strawberry. Crisp Linear and racy, the chiseled palate shows Bartlett acidity. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. acidity gives it a fresh finish. Saranty Imports.Best pear, Meyer lemon and hazelnut alongside vibrant abv: 13% Price: $28 Buy. —K.O. acidity. A flinty mineral further energizes the finish. abv: 12% Price: $10 Wine Icons. —K.O. Di Meo 2019 G (Greco di Tufo). Tropical fruit abv: 12.5% Price: $36 92 and yellow spring flower aromas fill the Menegotti 2019 Bardolino Chiaretto. Sub- glass. Juicy and savory, the medium-bodied pal- 85 dued aromas suggesting red berry and a Di Meo 2019 F (Fiano di Avellino). Acacia ate offers ripe pear, white peach and Meyer lemon whiff of field flowers form the shy nose. It’s simple 91 flower, yellow peach, pear and citrus aromas before a saline-mineral and almond close. Opera and light bodied, suggesting sour cherry and citrus mingle together. Tangy and linear, the palate offers Wine Imports. —K.O. alongside bright acidity. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O. apricot, honey, hazelnut and a lemon drop candy abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 12% Price: $14 note alongside fresh acidity. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. Di Meo 2018 G (Greco di Tufo). This radiant Monte Zovo 2019 Phasianus (Veronese). abv: 12.5% Price: $28 92 white opens with heady aromas of spring 85 This offers aromas of spring blossoms and blossoms, pear, exotic fruits and a delicate whisper red berry. It’s bright and simple, offering sour cherry Di Meo 2018 F (Fiano di Avellino). Spring of Mediterranean scrub. It’s smooth and savory, and strawberry alongside fresh acidity. Monte Zovo 91 blossom and white stone fruit aromas form featuring Rennet apple, white peach and Meyer USA. —K.O. the delicate nose along with a whiff of wet stone. lemon alongside crisp acidity. A saline note further abv: 13% Price: $17 Racy and focused, the palate delivers ripe yellow energizes the finish. Opera Wine Imports.Editors’ pear, hazelnut, citrus and smoky flint alongside Choice. —K.O. Seiterre 2019 Bardolino Chiaretto. Delicately bright acidity and mineral tension. Opera Wine abv: 12.5% Price: $28 85 scented, this has light aromas of sour cherry Imports. —K.O. and spring blossoms. The light-bodied, informal abv: 12.5% Price: $28 Cantine di Marzo 2018 Vigna Ortale (Greco di palate suggests tangy sour cherry set against crisp 91 Tufo). Wild herb, mature white stone fruit acidity. John Vestri. —K.O. Cantine di Marzo 2019 Fiano di Avellino. This and citrus aromas come together in the glass along abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 89 racy white has aromas reminiscent of exotic with the barest whiffs of exotic fruit and just baked fruit, Mediterranean brush and citrus zest. On bread. Racy and refined, the linear palate doles out Tommasi 2019 Granara (Bardolino Chi­ the crisp, linear palate, brisk acidity accompanies Meyer lemon, green melon and saline alongside 85 aretto). This simple, light-bodied wine has Bartlett pear, Meyer lemon and notes suggesting vibrant acidity. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. a shy nose that suggests spring wildflowers and red honeyed nut. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $28 berry. On the lively, informal palate, brisk acidity abv: 13% Price: $21 accompanies candied cherry notes. Vintus LLC. Cantine di Marzo 2019 Greco di Tufo. Aromas —K.O. Cantine di Marzo 2019 Linea Stemma (Fiano 90 of spring wildflowers and yellow stone fruit abv: 12% Price: $18 87 di Avellino). This vibrant white has subtle shape the nose along with a whiff of Mediterranean aromas suggesting botanical herb, citrus and acacia scrub. Crisp and savory, the racy palate offers yel- honey. The honeyed note follows over to the lean, low apple, Meyer lemon and tangy mineral notes CAMPANIA racy palate along with hints of pear, lemon and bit- evoking saline and briny oyster shell. Omniwines ter almond. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. Distribution. —K.O. FIANO DI AVELLINO abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $21

Feudi di San Gregorio 2017 Studi Morandi Terre d’Aione 2019 Fiano di Avellino. Aro- Cantine di Marzo 2018 Vigna Laure (Greco di 94 (Fiano di Avellino). Subtle aromas of wild 86 mas of tropical fruit and honeysuckle lead 90 Tufo). Enticing aromas suggesting spring herb, yellow flowers and stone fruit shape the deli- the nose. On the fresh, simple palate, bright acidity blossoms, white stone fruits and Mediterranean cate nose. The bright, focused palate delivers mature accompanies pear, honeydew and pineapple. Arte brush shape the nose along with a whiff of bread Bartlett pear, juicy Meyer lemon and tangy saline Vino. —K.O. dough. Elegant and racy, the chiseled palate offers alongside fresh acidity. A hazelnut note lingers on abv: 13% Price: $18 yellow pear, lemon thyme and briny oyster shell the linear close. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. alongside brisk acidity. Omniwines Distribution. abv: 13% Price: $60 —K.O. GRECO DI TUFO abv: 13% Price: $28 Feudi di San Gregorio 2017 Studi Arianiello 93 (Fiano di Avellino). Aromas of acacia honey, Feudi di San Gregorio 2017 Studi Nassano Claudio Quarta 2019 Cantina Sanpaolo chamomile, almond and bread crust carry over to 93 (Greco di Tufo). Showing structure and 88 (Greco di Tufo). Beeswax, eucalyptus and the palate along with dried apricot and lemon drop depth, this opens with aromas of hazelnut, freshly white stone fruit aromas emerge from the glass. candy. Accents of smoky flint and saline linger on baked bread and ripe yellow apple with a whiff of Crisp and savory, the tangy palate offers green the finish Terlato Wines International. —K.O. yellow spring flowers. Rounded and elegant, the melon, pear and lemon zest alongside vibrant abv: 13% Price: $60 dry, enveloping palate features yellow pear, almond, acidity. It closes on a bitter almond note. Enotec unsweetened lemon drop candy and flinty mineral Imports, Inc. —K.O. Feudi di San Gregorio 2017 Studi Sacconi alongside tangy acidity. It closes on a saline note. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 93 (Fiano di Avellino). Ripe yellow stone fruit, Terlato Wines International. —K.O. honey and hazelnut aromas lift out of the glass. The abv: 13.5% Price: $60 Cantine di Marzo 2018 Linea Stemma (Greco enveloping palate features mature apricot, yellow 87 di Tufo). Subtle aromas suggesting medicinal pear, lemon drop candy and smoky mineral before Cantine di Marzo 2018 Vigna Serrone (Greco herb and citrus lead the nose. On the racy, linear a honeyed close. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. 92 di Tufo). Eucalyptus, citrus and freshly palate, firm acidity accompanies Meyer lemon, pear abv: 13% Price: $60 baked bread aromas waft out of the glass. It’s tangy, and a hint of saline. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. savory and elegant, featuring flavors of green melon, abv: 13% Price: $16 Villa Raiano 2018 Satrano (Fiano di Avel­ 92 lino). Mediterranean herb, white stone fruit

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Terre d’Aione 2019 Greco di Tufo. White Rivera 2019 Marese Bombino Bianco (Castel Botromagno 2019 Gravina. A blend of 60% 85 spring flower and exotic fruit aromas take 88 del Monte). Boisterous tones of white blos- 88 Greco and 40% Malvasia, this savory white center stage on this informal white. The simple pal- soms, candied citrus peels and Gala apple give this offers tones of creamy white bean, blanched almond ate offers suggestions of pineapple and green melon fruity white a sense of ease. While the fruit comes and white blossoms on the nose. It has an almost alongside crisp acidity. Arte Vino. —K.O. in full blast on the palate, there’s still plenty of ten- fino Sherry quality to the palate, showing more abv: 13% Price: $18 sion holding it all in check. This is a playful, crowd- tones of blanched nuts alongside savory yeast and pleasing white that could easily be enjoyed as an a zippy line of lemon. This would sing alongside a aperitivo. Liber USA. Best Buy. —A.P. simple plate of shellfish cooked in white wine and OTHER WHITE WINES abv: 12.5% Price: $12 topped with fresh herbs. LLS–Winebow. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Vigne Chigi 2019 Pallagrello Bianco (Terre del Valentina Passalacqua 2018 Bombino (Pug­ 92 Volturno). Floral aromas of Spanish broom 87 lia). This natural-leaning wine is a bit Crifo 2019 Bianco (Castel del Monte). This mingle with Mediterranean scrub and yellow stone dichotomous. The nose starts off on rich aromas 87 blend of Pampanuto and Bombino Bianco fruit on this delicious white. Made with native of citrus oil, drawn butter, smoke and walnut skin, offers bright aromas of candied lemon blossoms and grape Pallagrello, the savory, medium-bodied palate while the palate is more tense and mineral driven. freshly cut Gala apple, with a bit of melon richness has a smooth, enveloping structure, featuring ripe Crushed stone and steely lemon flavors are ener- filling it out. Medium in weight, the palate is well apricot, yellow pear and Meyer lemon before a tangy getic and lifted, while drying tannins lend grip. Zev balanced in flavors of citrus, melon and apple, while mineral finish evoking saline. Cantiniere Imports & Rovine Selections. —A.P. bright acidity keeps it feeling fresh and crisp. Pul- Distributing, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 11% Price: $28 lano Imports. —A.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 11.5% Price: $13

Feudi di San Gregorio 2018 Campanaro VERDECA Villa Schinosa 2018 Pezza del Vado Bianco 89 Bianco (Irpinia). A blend of Fiano and Greco 86 (Puglia). A blend of Bombino Bianco and fermented and aged in tonneau, this has aromas of Masseria Li Veli 2019 Askos Verdeca Chardonnay, this white offers crisp aromas of apple beeswax, acacia flower and honey. The aromas fol- 90 (Salento). Rich aromas of melon and apple and citrus, with hints of smoke and stone chiming low over to the vibrant, linear palate along with meld with white blossoms on the nose. This is play- in. The palate is rounded out by a pleasing melon yellow apple, oak-driven spice and toasted almond ful and fruity on the palate in juicy tones of apricot tone, with lemon peel and walnut skin flavors giv- before a saline finish. Bright acidity keeps it fresh. skins and pineapple, while a gentle grip of white ing a slightly bitter edge. Massanois Imports. —A.P. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. tea and tangy acidity keep it all buttoned up. Dalla abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $40 Terra Winery Direct. —A.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $21 Di Meo 2019 S Falanghina (Campania). ROSATO 88 White spring flower and orchard fruit aro- Polvanera 2018 Verdeca (Puglia). A divi- mas lift out of the glass. The bright palate doles out 88 sive expression of Verdeca, this white sees Tenute Rubino 2019 Saturnino Negroamaro apricot, banana and a hint of pineapple alongside extended time on its skins to yield a straw-yellow 92 Rosato (Brindisi). This bold rosato starts tangy acidity. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. color, with burnt orange highlights. It’s rife with off with an integrated nose of peach, banana and abv: 13% Price: $18 herbal aromas of wild spearmint and elderflower melon, while bright shots of pink grapefruit and alongside rich elements of lemon oil and oolong tea. spice add lift. It’s rounded and juicy on the palate, The palate is bright and lifted in tones of crushed showing a pleasing progression of berry and melon ROSATO mint and apricot skins. It’s grippy in feel yet fresh flavors that are accented by orange-laden acidity. and utterly idiosyncratic. Jan D’Amore Wines. —A.P. Wet stone and citrus peels add depth and grip, and Vigne Chigi 2019 Rosa Canina Pallagrello abv: 12.5% Price: $24 contribute to the lingering finish. Soilair Selection. 87 Nero Rosato (Terre del Volturno). Aromas of Best Buy. —A.P. Spanish broom with a whiff of red berry are behind Produttori di Manduria 2019 Alice Verdeca abv: 13% Price: $11 the delicate nose. On the round, medium-bodied 87 (Salento). Lively aromas of papaya, melon palate, fennel notes back up pomegranate and red and lemon start off this fruity number. It’s well Leone de Castris 2019 Five Roses Rosato cherry before a salty close. Cantiniere Imports & balanced and juicy on the palate, with a soft curve 91 (Salento). This iconic bottling from a his- Distributing, Inc. —K.O. of melon against a sharper streak of lemon peel. toric estate offers a zesty, fresh nose of pink grape- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 “­Alice” means anchovy in Italian, and this zesty fruit, crushed black pepper and melon. The palate white could be a perfect match alongside some fresh is cohesive and lifted in tones of strawberry, melon seafood. Massanois Imports. —A.P. and citrus, with a gentle floral kick on the midpalate PUGLIA abv: 13% Price: $17 and a gentle cherry skin note on the lingering close. Billed as the first commercial rosato bottling in the BOMBINO BIANCO region, this is a delicious vintage. Vias Imports. OTHER WHITE WINES —A.P. Valentina Passalacqua 2018 Lux Bombino abv: 12% Price: $21 89 (Puglia). A hazy color of sunset orange, this Valentina Passalacqua 2018 Cosi Comé Greco lively white starts off on aromas of apple, peach and 91 (Puglia). A slightly hazy hue of burnt orange, Castello Monaci 2019 Kreos Negroamaro tangerine, with blossomy white flowers joining in. this natural-leaning white offers a playful nose of 90 Rosato (Salento). A slick nose of wet It’s tangy and racy on the palate, with textural fla- peach and apricot juice, alongside lifted elements stone, papaya and watermelon starts off this well- vors of apple and apricot skins that are elongated of orange and dried spring flowers. It’s tangy and balanced rosato. The flavors build on the palate, by a lingering oolong tea sensation. This is a great grippy on the palate, showing lots of fruit skin fla- beginning with a melon tone that leads to crushed hands-off expression of the boisterous Bombino vors that are filled out by a vein of juicy acidity. A strawberry and blood orange. There’s a gentle tan- variety. Zev Rovine Selections. —A.P. smoky oolong tea note extends on the finish. Zev nic grip and fresh acidity to house all the fruit, with abv: 10% Price: $28 Rovine Selections. —A.P. a lick of peppery spice to add depth, while crushed abv: 11% Price: $28

124 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 cherry skins linger on the close. Frederick Wildman Polvanera 2015 17 Vigneto Montevella & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —A.P. PRIMITIVO 90 Primitivo (Gioia del Colle). Lifted aromas of abv: 12.5% Price: $14 crushed black pepper, tar, violet and cherry carry Coppi 2017 Senatore Primitivo (Gioia del the nose of this single-vineyard wine. The palate is Masseria Li Veli 2019 Primerose Negroamaro 91 Colle). For full review see page 15. broad and rich in cherry and red plum flavors, with 90 Rosato (Salento). A bright, boisterous nose abv: 13.5% Price: $30 loads of spice, violet and herbal nuances. There’s a of peach, melon and apricot starts off this fruity bit of a fiery kick to this high-octane Primitivo, but but balanced rosato. Rounded and juicy in feel, the Produttori di Manduria 2017 Lirica (Primitivo is resolves well on the finish. Jan D’Amore Wines. palate offers creamy melon and stone fruit flavors 91 di Manduria). Cohesive aromas of tilled earth, —A.P. upfront that progress to more citric elements of tobacco and peppery spice are well-integrated into abv: 16.5% Price: $40 grapefruit and orange zest. It ends on a lingering a rich cherry jam core on the nose. This is full, apricot peel note that leaves a crisp, delightfully rounded and juicy in feel, showing luscious fruit San Marzano 2018 Talò (Primitivo di Man­ tactical sensation. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Best jam flavors that don’t falter or loose definition, 90 duria). A dense nose of tart cherry and Buy. —A.P. thanks to lifted acidity and a firm framing of pol- violet gives way to a plush, rounded palate of rich abv: 12% Price: $13 ished tannins. Tobacco, earth and violet tones bring fruit-jam intensity. This shows a good progression added depth, with a cherry skin tone lingers on the of fruit, spice and floral tones, while a polished Coppi 2019 Coré Negroamaro Rosato close. Massanois Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.P. frame of tannins lends support. Monsieur Touton 89 (Salento). This well-priced offering is abv: 14.5% Price: $16 Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.P. rounded and ripe in flavors of crushed strawberry, abv: 14% Price: $19 melon and blood orange. It’s built by vibrant acid- Rivera 2017 Triusco (Primitivo di Manduria). ity that carries all the fruit quite well, lending lift 91 There’s a cool, mentholated quality to the Tagaro 2015 Piè del Monaco Primitivo (Valle and vitality, while also allowing the flavors to shine. nose that sits over the concentrated yet fresh 90 d’Itria). Aromas of tar, iodine and violet are Wine 4 All. Best Buy. —A.P. blackberry jam and dark cherry core. Tense tones dense on the nose, with loads of peppery spice and abv: 12% Price: $13 of thick-skinned dark cherry and blackberry carry bramble berries at the core of this wine. It’s rich on the palate. The tannins are firm in feel, but there’s the palate in flavors of dark-berry jam and orange Valentina Passalacqua 2018 Negroamaro plenty of fruit to fill it out. Spice, violet and orange marmalade, yet a sturdy frame of gripping tannins 89 Rosato (Puglia). This wild, earthy rosato rind accents lend lift, with lingering tones of iodine and pulsing acidity keeps it balanced. There’s good shows lifted tones of strawberry and Mediterra- and jammy berry fruit. Liber USA. —A.P. integration and power here. Eagle Spirits Imports nean scrub. It’s juicy and crunchy in feel, with fruit, abv: 14.5% Price: $26 and Exports. —A.P. earth and tannins all in harmony. A slick of tangy abv: 15% Price: $25 wet stone marks the brisk close. Zev Rovine Selec- Amarama 2018 Appassimento Primitivo tions. —A.P. 90 (Puglia). Rich cherry and blackberry jam Tenute Rubino 2018 Primitivo (Salento). abv: 10% Price: $28 aromas kick off the nose while bubblegum spice 90 Showing the earthier side of the vari- chimes in. This is rounded and full on the palate, ety, this red starts off with aromas of turned soil, Cantele 2019 Negroamaro Rosato (Salento). with juicy, soft black and red fruit flavors. Plenty of crushed black pepper and violet on the nose, yet 88 The reserved nose of this wine offers hints lift from zesty acidity gives this ample brightness, there’s plenty of added appeal in the ripe berry core. of grapefruit, melon and peppery spice. The pal- while a soft framing of tannins rides throughout. It’s It’s rounded and full on the palate without being ate is more giving in the same mix of tones, with a style that will please a crowd: silken yet juicy fruit, overblown, giving way to juicy blackberry and dark- a pleasantly plump feel that’s well balanced. LLS– supple tannins and a heady dose of warm spices. plum flavors that linger nicely on the finish. Soilair Winebow. —A.P. Votto Vines Importing. —A.P. Selection. Best Buy. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 15% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Leone de Castris 2019 Il Medaglione Negroa­ Coppi 2017 Don Antonio Primitivo (Puglia). Tormaresca 2018 Torcicoda Primitivo 88 maro Rosato (Salento). Crushed straw- 90 For full review see page 19. 90 (Salento). This rich wine is all about suc- berry, gravel and peppery spice carry the mild nose. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 culent blackberry jam, cocoa powder and sizzling Creamy melon and red berry flavors are joined by a warm spices. There’s a creamy, polished feel to it well-integrated vein of acidity, while a bit of citric Giordano 2018 Appassimento Primitivo all, while lifted acidity keeps it balanced and entic- lift and a gentle grip of tannins arise on the finish. 90 (Puglia). Rich aromas of dark cherry jam, ing. Tilled earth and fruit go hand-in-hand on the Vias Imports. —A.P. anise and orange spice make for an inviting nose. lingering finish. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.Edi - abv: 12% Price: $15 It’s rounded and plump on the palate, displaying tors’ Choice. —A.P. well-balanced yet hefty tones of jammy dark fruit abv: 15% Price: $20 Tormaresca 2019 Calafuria Rosato (Salento). and sweet spices. It ends lifted and bright, making 87 Zesty aromas of peppery spice and tomato it accessible in the near term. Votto Vines Import- Coppi 2016 Siniscalco Primitivo (Puglia). vine meld with creamy melon on the nose. The ing. —A.P. 89 Pretty aromas of violet and pink peppercorn rounded palate brings flavors of banana, melon and abv: 15% Price: $50 ride over the raspberry jam and cherry core. It’s orange that are initially lifted and pure but end a bit smooth and supple in feel, with plenty of juicy red short. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —A.P. Pietraventosa 2017 Volere Volare Primitivo fruit to fill it out, while spice and floral tones add abv: 12% Price: $15 90 (Puglia). Aromas of tilled earth, geranium depth. Crunchy cherry skins linger on the close of and Mediterranean scrub ride over a pure, concen- this delicious lighter-styled Primitivo. Wine 4 All. Vespa 2019 Flarò il Rosa dei Vespa Rosato trated core of fresh blackberry and currant in this Best Buy. —A.P. 86 (Salento). A delicate nose of white blos- wine. It’s smooth and supple on the palate, with a abv: 13.5% Price: $13 soms, pollen and citrus holds a hint of herbal spice polished, easy feel to the crunchy berry flavors and in the background. Creamy on the palate, it shows earthy accents. This is a harmonious Primitivo that Masseria Li Veli 2018 Orion Primitivo subdued flavors of strawberry and melon, ending shows the grape’s savory, fresh side. RWK Imports. 89 (Salento). Aromas of crushed black pepper, short but refreshing. Ethica Wines. —A.P. —A.P. violet and tilled earth are front and center on the abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 nose, with blackberry jam and blood orange riding underneath. This is juicy and full on the smooth

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BUYINGGUIDE palate, lifted by bright shots of tart cranberry. It Tagaro 2017 Passo del Sud Zinfandel (Pug­ just enough fruit weight and acidity to balance it all shows a lot of appeal upfront, but ends a bit short 88 lia). Taking the American moniker for the out. Soilair Selection. —A.P. on the finish. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —A.P. grape variety—a tribute to the wine’s use of Ameri- abv: 15.5% Price: $27 abv: 14% Price: $15 can oak—this wine offers dark cherry fruit tones that are firmly ensconced in accents of coffee and Tormaresca 2018 Nèprica Primitivo (Puglia). Polvanera 2016 14 Vigneto Marchesana dark cocoa. It’s rich on the palate, fully fleshed out 87 Bright aromas of balsamic-dipped cherries, 89 Primitivo (Gioia del Colle). Aromas of earth, by the lush fruit tones, with oaky spice showing crushed black pepper and anise form the nose of farmyard, brandied cherry and crushed thyme carry good integration. Eagle Spirits Imports and Exports. this accessible red. It’s light and zesty on the pal- to the smooth, supple palate. It’s sturdy and lifted in Best Buy. —A.P. ate, driven by jammy cherry and blackberry flavors feel, with quite a delicious mix of fruit and savory abv: 14.5% Price: $12 that are lifted and pure. Fine tannins lend some grip characters. Jan D’Amore Wines. —A.P. to the feel, while an orange marmalade tone arises abv: 14.5% Price: $21 Tratturi 2018 Primitivo (Salento). Aromas on the finish. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.Best Buy. 88 of cherry cordial, brandy-soaked black- —A.P. Trullo di Pezza 2017 Mezzapezza Primitivo berry and a wealth of warm spices kick off the rich abv: 14.5% Price: $12 89 (Salento). Warm spices are at the fore nose. It’s rounded and ripe on the palate, echoing of this, with tar, peppery spice and violet accents the nose but adding in a dense blackberry jam tone. Trullo di Pezza 2017 Licurti (Primitivo di Man­ that are ensconced in the dense bramble berry jam It’s all lifted by refreshing acidity, framed by well- 87 duria). Heady aromas of toasted vanilla, core. Medium in weight, the palate offers lifted fruit mannered tannins and studded with spice. Polaner anise and clove carry over the rich dark berry jam tones, with an earthier undercurrent of tilled soil, Selections. Best Buy. —A.P. core. This is full in feel on the palate, with oak tones violet and warm spices. The acidity is bright and abv: 13% Price: $11 firmly wrapping around the coiled dark-berry fruit. poised while the tannins offer a bit of grit, but over- While there is a lot of oak, the fruit is still there to all it all resolves well. Soilair Selection. —A.P. Valentina Passalacqua 2018 Primitivo (Pug­ flesh it out. It’s a full, flashy and rich style. Soilair abv: 14.5% Price: $15 88 lia). A rather reserved nose eventually Selection. —A.P. opens up to cinnamon and orange peel, with purple abv: 15% Price: $22 Vespa 2018 Il Rosso dei Vespa (Primitivo di blossoms and cranberry riding underneath. This is 89 Manduria). Notes of violet, gardenia and ultralight in feel on the palate, driven by zesty acid- Verso 2019 Primitivo di Manduria. Bright, tilled earth are at the fore of the savory nose. Pep- ity that rounds out to juicy flavors of tart strawberry 87 easy aromas of cherry coulis and blackberry pery spice and a hint of baking spice bring up the and cherry. The fruit does linger a bit on the finish, jam form the nose, alongside integrated tones of rear, with juicy red berries filling out the core of but it’s a bit one-note. Zev Rovine Selections. —A.P. violet and peppery spice. Medium in weight, the the nose. This is tense on the palate, showing lots abv: 12% Price: $28 palate is smooth and juicy in rich cherry and berry of dark cocoa-dipped cherry flavors alongside brac- flavors, with an accent of tar and spice. The tannins ing acidity and a firm grip of tannins. Ethica Wines. Amastuola 2018 Organic Primitivo (Puglia). are mellowed and polished, while the acidity lively —A.P. 87 Bright, bouncy aromas of cherry and cran- and bright. It’s not very complex, or intense, but abv: 14.5% Price: $35 berry mix with integrated warm spice tones on the is still quite enjoyable and balanced. Votto Vines nose. It’s silky in feel on entry, with flavors of juicy Importing. —A.P. Amastuola 2017 Centosassi Primitivo (Pug­ spiced blackberry lifted by violet. Mildly clenching abv: 14% Price: $30 88 lia). Rich cherry and blackberry aromas tannins give a bit of grip and bite, but this rounds meld with violet and tilled earth tones on the nose. out well come the finish. Tuscan Vineyard Imports Amastuola 2017 Lamarossa Primitivo (Pug­ The palate shows a dried fruit character, with shots LLC. —A.P. 86 lia). This full, fleshy red is built by strong of orange rind and bright acidity to lend lift. This is abv: 14% Price: $13 seams of cocoa and anise alongside a rich dark- an approachable Primitivo that should be enjoyed in berry jam core. Polished tannins and lifted acidity the near term. Tuscan Vineyard Imports LLC. —A.P. Castello Monaci 2018 Pilùna Primitivo lend ample structure, but the warm spice dominate abv: 15.5% Price: $30 87 (Salento). A warm spice tone reminiscent the fruit. Tuscan Vineyard Imports LLC. —A.P. of Chinese five-spice powder is ensconced in the abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Borgo del Mandorlo 2018 Primitivo di Man­ ripe cherry and blackberry tones of this wine. It’s 88 duria. A bright nose of orange spice, black- smooth and silken on the palate, with creamy berry Danti 2017 Primitivo (Puglia). Bright aromas berry and dark cherry jam carries accents of anise flavors that are lifted by zesty acidity. Well-man- 86 of cherry, berry and bubblegum spices carry and violet. This is supple and smooth on the palate, nered tannins support it all, giving this a vibe that lots of intensity on the nose. This is full and fruity displaying polished fruit jam tones alongside shots will appeal to many. Frederick Wildman & Sons, on the palate, showing a supple, juicy mouthfeel of of blood orange and warm spice. A bit of warmth Ltd. —A.P. cherry and berry flavors. It doesn’t offer much else, shows on the palate, and it ends a little astringent, abv: 14% Price: $15 but is a well-balanced, tasty offering. Votto Vines but overall this is enjoyable for its forward nature. Importing. —A.P. Polaner Selections. —A.P. Tagaro 2017 Cinquenoci Primitivo (Puglia). abv: 15% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $16 87 The nose offers firm tones of toasted oak, toasted vanilla, bologna and warm spices. Medium Vespa 2019 Il Bruno di Vespa Primitivo Rivera 2018 Primitivo (Salento). A well- to full in weight, the palate echoes the nose, show- 86 (Salento). Very lively aromas of cherry and 88 rounded nose offers aromas of ripe cherry ing oak spices wrapping around cherry and plum bubblegum spice carry the nose, while the palate is and blackberry, sprinkled with hints of well-­ fruit. Eagle Spirits Imports and Exports. —A.P. equally fruit driven. Gentle tannins give a frame to integrated spice tones—both savory and sweet. The abv: 15% Price: $15 the soft cherry-laden body, with juicy acidity and medium-bodied palate is fleshed out and juicy in orange spice tones lifting it all up. Ethica Wines. berry tones, lifted by accents of blood orange and Tenute Rubino 2016 Visellio Primitivo —A.P. violet, all framed in a gentle webbing of tannins. 87 (Salento). Aromas of balsamic-dipped cher- abv: 14% Price: $20 It’s a well-structured yet approachable offering that ries, tar and rubber carry the nose, while the plush, will please many. Liber USA. Best Buy. —A.P. rounded palate offers more appeal in rich black- Vigneti del Salento 2018 I Muri Primitivo abv: 14% Price: $11 berry flavors. Oak and tannins are in full force, with 86 (Puglia). Aromas of dried cranberry and red cherry meld with hints of tilled earth and violet on the nose. It’s light and juicy on the palate, with a

126 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 mix of tart red and black berry flavors that carry a ity, giving it lift and length. Drink now–2030. Vias the palate, with flavors of sauced red fruit showing slight raisinated edge. The acidity is persistent and Imports. —A.P. some lift thanks to a zip of crushed granite. The tan- fresh, keeping everything lifted until the brisk, spicy abv: 14.5% Price: $48 nins are fine but crunchy, and this ends a bit hot. close. Gonzalez Byass USA. —A.P. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.P. abv: 14% Price: $13 Masseria Li Veli 2018 Passamante (Salice abv: 15% Price: $26 90 Salentino). Spicy and savory on the nose, this red shows loads of thyme, bay leaf and pep- NEGROAMARO per, with ripe dark plum riding behind. The palate SICILY is smooth and supple, with bright acidity pushing Tormaresca 2016 Masseria Maìme Negroa­ it along, yet all the while succulent flavors of dark ETNA BIANCO 92 maro (Salento). Aromas of crushed Medi- plum and berry fruit never skip a beat. Herbs and terranean herbs, olive tapenade and peppery spices spice play second fiddle to the fruit on the palate Planeta 2018 Eruzione 1614 Carricante meld with steeped prune and dark cherry tones in but lend nice grip alongside firm yet polished tan- 94 (Etna). For full review see page 7. this delicious red that’s sourced from the winery’s nins. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Best Buy. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Salento property. There’s weight and power to the abv: 13.5% Price: $15 palate, echoing the savory and fruity tones of the Biondi 2018 Pianta Bianco (Etna). Made nose. The structure is firm, yet polished, giving it an Schola Sarmenti 2015 Nerìo Riserva 93 with 80% Carricante, 10% Catarratto and approachable feel for enjoyment in the near term. 90 Negroamaro-­Malvasia (Nardò). Opaque 10% Minnella, this elegant white has aromas of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —A.P. ruby in the glass, this dense red offers aromas of white stone fruit, yellow spring flowers and Medi- abv: 14% Price: $35 liquor-soaked dark cherries, anisette and sweet oak terranean scrub. On the focused, savory palate, tones on the forward nose. The palate is supple in vibrant acidity supports ripe pear, citrus, graphite Coppi 2018 Pellirosso Negroamaro feel, with a rich red cherry flavor that’s ensconced and saline before a toasted almond close. Oliver 89 (Salento). Zesty aromas of crushed thyme, in warm spice tones. There’s good grip to the palate McCrum Wines. —K.O. bay leaf and eucalyptus ride over a spiced cranberry in fine, integrated tannins and lifted acidity. It cer- abv: 12.5% Price: $42 and plum core. This is light and easy on the palate, tainly isn’t bashful in oak, but there’s plenty of lush giving juicy red fruit and soft, polished tannins. fruit to fill it out—a style that many might enjoy. Palmento Costanzo 2019 Mofete (Etna). Integrated acidity is the main driver here, but it Massanois Imports. —A.P. 92 Spring blossom, white stone fruit and Medi- plays well with the fruit and spice elements, never abv: 14% Price: $25 terranean scrub aromas form the delicate, enticing seeming out of place. Wine 4 All. Best Buy. —A.P. nose. On the racy palate, crisp acidity accompanies abv: 13% Price: $13 Varvaglione 2015 Salice (Salice Salentino). ripe pear, apple and lemon drop candy, while a briny 89 A bit closed at first, this wine eventually note backs up the already energized finish. Artisanal Masseria Li Veli 2018 Primonero Negroamaro reveals charming aromas of dark cocoa, steeped Cellars. —K.O. 88 (Salento). Aromas of thyme, crushed pep- prune and cherry stem on the nose. The palate is abv: 12% Price: $25 per and mixed crushed berries take a bit to show on more expressive in nature, giving way to a juicy red the nose but carry good concentration as it opens cherry tone alongside sweet spice and firm tannins. Pietradolce 2019 Bianco (Etna). Made with up. Juicy red plum and wild bramble berries unite This blend of 85% Negroamaro and 15% Malvasia 92 Carricante grapes grown at 2,625 feet above alongside fistfuls of crushed herbs and peppery Nera offers the rounded structure, rich fruit and sea level on the slopes of Mount Etna, this savory, spice on the palate. This is pleasantly fruity, but warm spice tones that will please many. WinesU. vibrant white opens with delicate, enticing scents reined in well by a solid frame of gripping tannins —A.P. of Spanish broom, white stone fruit and a whiff of and persistent acidity. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. abv: 14% Price: $20 almond. On the racy, elegant palate, crisp acidity Best Buy. —A.P. accompanies ripe yellow pear, Meyer lemon, oyster abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Verso 2019 Rosso (Salento). A welcoming shell and tangy saline. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. 89 nose of anise cookies, cherry cordial and abv: 13% Price: $NA Rivera 2018 Negroamaro (Salento). Aromas crushed, mentholated herbs starts off this red. It’s 86 of bright cherry, anise and cinnamon start juicy and silky on the medium-bodied palate, with a Monterosso 2017 Crater Carricante (Etna). off this straightforward red. This is light in feel and mix of tangy and sweet berry fruit that is wrapped 89 Linear and vibrant, this has delicate aromas fruity on the palate in bouncy cherry and berry fla- in an envelope of warm spices. There’s good lift and of beeswax and hazelnut with a whiff of honey. On vors. It shows a nice balance but is ultimately quite grip, making this a balanced offering. Votto Vines the racy, understated palate, smoky mineral accents simple. It’s a great buy as a weekday red. Liber USA. Importing. —A.P. Meyer lemon and yellow apple before a saline close. Best Buy. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $26 Wine Source Group USA. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 12.5% Price: $40 Castello Monaci 2018 Liante (Salice Sal­ 88 entino). A blend of 80% Negroamaro and Biondi 2018 Outis Bianco (Etna). Subtle RED BLENDS 20% Malvasia Nera, this savory, fresh red starts 88 aromas of spring blossoms and beeswax off with aromas of red berry jam, tomato paste and form the delicate nose. On the racy, linear palate, Leone de Castris 2016 Donna Lisa Riserva olive tapenade. Flavors of tart cherry and red plum firm acidity accompanies yellow apple, lemon and 92 (Salice Salentino). Opaque ruby in the glass, glide alongside zesty acidity on the medium-bodied saline before a bitter almond close. Oliver McCrum this blend of 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malva- palate, with a bit of grit and grip to the texture. It’s Wines. —K.O. sia Nera offers a brooding nose of olive tapenade, a bit rustic in feel but still quite charming—perfect abv: 12% Price: $33 crushed thyme and pepper over a core of dark plum as a weekday red alongside pizza or pasta. Frederick and cherry. It’s smooth on entry, with a building Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.P. Federico Curtaz 2017 Ca Gamma (Etna). This structure of zesty acidity and firm tannins. Spice abv: 13.5% Price: $15 86 has subtle aromas suggesting beeswax and and fruit have a nice interplay here, with a savory, broom. It’s brisk and light bodied, offering acacia herbal note extending on the finish. There’s real Castello Monaci 2015 Aiace Riserva (Salice honey, hazelnut and bitter yellow apple skin along- energy to the core in a crushed granite-like qual- 87 Salentino). Prunes and cherries show a side firm acidity. Jan D’Amore Wines —K.O. slightly stewed quality on the nose alongside olive abv: 12.5% Price: $45 tapenade and crushed herbs. Zesty acidity drives

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nean brush, wild red berries, wet stone and fragrant nean scrub, ripe dark-skinned berry and eucalyptus SPARKLING WINE purple flowers. On the luminous, full-bodied palate, aromas are front and center on this sleek red, along taut, polished tannins accompany mature Morello with a whiff of graphite. Savory and concentrated, Gambino 2013 Metodo Classico Brut (Etna). cherry, crushed blackberry, wild herb and baking the succulent palate doles out mature Morello 90 Spanish broom, bread crust and white spice. Best 2021–2027. Panebianco. —K.O. cherry, ripe raspberry, star anise and clove before stone fruit aromas waft out of the glass. On the racy abv: 14.5% Price: $45 a salty mineral close. Polished tannins keep it sup- palate, vibrant acidity and a refined perlage accom- ple. Drink through 2025. Wine Source Group USA. pany mature yellow apple, Meyer lemon, aniseed Monterosso 2016 Sisma Nerello Mascalese —K.O. and saline before a hazelnut close. Multiple U.S. 95 (Etna). Enticingly fragrant, this offers heady abv: 14% Price: $30 importers. —K.O. scents of violet, wild rose, Mediterranean scrub abv: 12% Price: $NA and woodland berry. Smooth and absolutely deli- Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Calderara Sot­ cious, the round, enveloping palate has a weightless 93 tana Nerello Mascalese (Etna). Aromas of depth, delivering succulent crushed raspberry, ripe wild herb, violet, red berry and a hint of hazelnut ETNA ROSATO Morello cherry, licorice and tangy mineral notes come to the forefront. Taut and focused, the ethere- suggesting wet stone. It’s already accessible, with ally elegant palate offers red cherry, blood orange, I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna 2019 Contrada polished tannins and fresh acidity. Drink through star anise and a hint of espresso before a saline 92 Mugnazzi Alnus Rosato (Etna). Red berry, 2028. Wine Source Group USA. Editors’ Choice. close. Fine-grained tannins and bright acidity pro- Mediterranean scrub and wildflower aromas form —K.O. vide graceful support. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. the alluring nose on this Nerello Mascalese and Ner- abv: 13% Price: $40 abv: 14% Price: $45 ello Cappuccio blend. On the bright, savory palate, tangy acidity accompanies juicy red cherry, blood Fattorie Romeo del Castello 2017 Allegra­ Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Santo Spirito orange and star anise before a saline close. Porto 94 core Nerello Mascalese (Etna). Enticingly 93 Nerello Mascalese (Etna). Aromas of black- Vino Italiano. —K.O. fragrant, this delicious red opens with heady aro- berry, truffle, purple flowers and Mediterranean abv: 12.5% Price: $25 mas of rose, violet, perfumed berry and Mediter- scrub shape the enticing nose along with whiffs of ranean scrub. The savory, rounded palate doles out dark spice. Polished and bright, the elegantly struc- Torre Mora 2019 Scalunera Nerello Mascalese juicy black cherry, spiced cranberry, blood orange tured palate features ripe raspberry, black cherry 92 Rosato (Etna). Fruity and fresh, this savory and tobacco. Lithe tannins offer seamless support. and licorice alongside refined tannins. It closes on rosato opens with aromas of red berry, blue flowers Drink through 2025. Louis/Dressner Selections. a hint of espresso. Drink through 2028. Skurnik and citrus. Made entirely with Nerello Mascalese, —K.O. Wines, Inc. —K.O. the racy, delicious palate doles out tangy straw- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $45 berry, blood orange and saline mineral notes before a baking spice close. 8 Vini, Inc. —K.O. Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Feudo di Mezzo Barone di Villagrande 2017 Contrada Vil­ abv: 12.5% Price: $23 94 Nerello Mascalese (Etna). Graphite, thyme, 92 lagrande (Etna). Aromas of black-skinned brambly berry and violet aromas waft out of the berry, eucalyptus and star anise float out of the Gambino 2019 Tifeo Nerello Mascalese Rosato glass along with Mediterranean scrub. Boasting glass along with whiffs of violet and new leather. 91 (Etna). Refreshing and savory, this tangy youthful tension, the chiseled palate delivers succu- Savory and refined, the poised palate doles out juicy rosato has fruity and floral aromas of wild red berry, lent Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice and blackberry, ripe Morello cherry and baking spice orchard fruit and Spanish broom. The crisp palate coffee bean set against elegant, fine-grained tan- while lithe tannins provide seamless support. Drink offers juicy sour cherry, peach and pink grapefruit nins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced while a hint through 2027. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. before a saline close. Total Wine & More. —K.O. of saline lingers on the close. Drink through 2033. abv: 13.5% Price: $43 abv: 13% Price: $24 Skurnik Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45 Benanti 2018 Contrada Dafa Galluzzo Nerello Cottanera 2019 Nerello Mascalese Rosato 92 Mascalese (Etna). Mediterranean scrub, 89 (Etna). Fresh and fragrant, this has aromas Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 San Lorenzo plum and blue flower aromas mingle together in the of wisteria and tropical fruit with a whiff of botani- 94 Nerello Mascalese (Etna). Fragrant and glass along with whiffs of moist earth. Savory and cal herb. On the tangy palate, vibrant acidity accom- loaded with finesse, this opens with enticing aro- refined, the elegant, accessible palate delivers juicy panies peach, banana and sour cherry. Indigenous mas of Mediterranean brush, violet, crushed lemon black cherry, wild raspberry, star anise and saline Selections. —K.O. thyme and star anise. On the savory, focused palate, mineral notes framed in polished tannins. It’s fresh abv: 13% Price: $17 notes of licorice, hazelnut and flinty mineral accent and balanced, with bright acidity. Drink through a juicy red berry core. Polished tannins and fresh 2025. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. acidity provide seamless support and balance. Drink abv: 13.5% Price: $50 ETNA ROSSO 2021–2028. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. Biondi 2018 Outis (Etna). Fragrant and Tascante 2017 Contrada Sciaranuova Vigna abv: 14% Price: $54 92 loaded with finesse, this opens with cap- 97 Vecchia Nerello Mascalese (Etna). Cedar, tivating scents of Mediterranean scrub, violet and eucalyptus, Mediterranean scrub and wild berry Girolamo Russo 2017 Feudo di Mezzo Nerello wild berry with a whiff of camphor. Focused and are just some of the aromas you’ll find on this gor- 93 Mascalese (Etna). Heady aromas of botani- savory, the racy palate features sour cherry, blood geous red. On the drop-dead delicious palate, smoky cal herbs, fragrant purple flowers and eucalyptus orange and star anise alongside a salty mineral note. mineral and licorice accent a core of juicy Morello are front and center. On the full-bodied palate, Taut, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity keep cherry and blood orange. Fresh acidity and lithe, notes of licorice, blood orange and tangy mineral it balanced. Drink 2022–2028. Oliver McCrum polished tannins provide elegant support. Drink accent a core of dried cherry. Close-grained tannins Wines. —K.O. through 2029. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. offer taut support. Drink 2022–2029. Grand Cru abv: 13.5% Price: $33 abv: NA Price: $120 Selections. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Biondi 2017 Cisterna Fuori (Etna). Wild Girolamo Russo 2017 San Lorenzo (Etna). 92 strawberry, Mediterranean scrub and blue 95 Structured and loaded with finesse, this Monterosso 2017 Volcano Nerello Mascalese flower aromas mingle with a whiff of sea breeze on delicious red opens with heady scents of Mediterra- 93 (Etna). Fragrant purple flower, Mediterra- this elegant red. The chiseled palate mirrors the

128 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 nose, delivering cranberry, aromatic herb and notes toasted hazelnut and salted game alongside close- richness to stand up to the oak. Louis/Dressner of exotic spice alongside taut, fine-grained tannins. grained tannins. It has a rustic charm for sure. Soil- Selections. —K.O. Drink 2022–2027. Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O. air Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: 14% Price: $95 Scilio 2014 1815 Rosso (Etna). This has Girolamo Russo 2017 Caldera Sottana Nerello Palmento Costanzo 2016 Nero di Sei (Etna). 87 aromas of French oak, graphite, violet and 92 Mascalese (Etna). Camphor, Mediterranean 90 Camphor, cedar and Mediterranean brush scorched forest floor that follow on to the evolved, scrub and cedar aromas mingle with a whiff of blue aromas mingle with fragrant blue flowers. It’s taut rather abrupt palate along with prune and toasted flowers. Smooth and full bodied, the palate doles and rather austere, offering sour cherry, pomegran- hazelnut. Grainy tannins leave a lean, astringent out dried cherry, licorice and tobacco alongside ate and hints of dark spice alongside grainy tannins finish. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —K.O. fine-grained tannins. Drink 2021–2027. Grand Cru that leave a firm finish. Artisanal Cellars. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60 Selections. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Valenti 2015 Norma Nerello Mascalese Benanti 2018 Contrada Cavaliere Nerello 85 (Etna). Aromas of graphite, hazelnut and Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Guardiola Ner­ 89 Mascalese (Etna). Mediterranean brush, scorched earth form the subtle nose. The lean pal- 92 ello Mascalese (Etna). Fragrant blue flower, cedar and rose scents mingle with a whiff of toasted ate is already evolved, showing mere suggestions of underbrush, wild berry and Mediterranean brush nut. On the chiseled, rather lean palate, a smoky unripe berry, citrus, saline and roasted coffee bean. aromas form the nose on this vibrant red, grown on mineral note accents sour cherry, fennel and blood Astringent tannins give it an abrupt, mouthdrying high altitude slopes. The tense, racy palate offers orange alongside taut, dusty tannins that leave a close. Vino Veritas. —K.O. sour cherry, orange zest and star anise alongside lean, drying close. Drink 2021–2028. Wilson Dan- abv: 13% Price: $20 taut, fine-grained tannins and an acidic backbone. iels Ltd. —K.O. Drink 2022–2030. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Fedegraziani 2018 Etna. Earthy aromas of Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Moganazzi Ner­ 89 underbrush, truffle and wild berry mingle 91 ello Mascalese (Etna). This has a rather shy with whiffs of hazelnut and game. Reflecting the nose that eventually reveals whiffs of botanical nose, the rounded, accessible palate offers dried herb, cedar and underbrush. Racy and rather lean, cherry, nut and the same gamy note from the nose the focused palate shows dried cherry, coffee bean alongside sleek tannins. Drink now. Soilair Selec- and clove alongside bright acidity. Close-grained tion. —K.O. tannins leave a drying finish. Skurnik Wines, Inc. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Scilio 2017 Galfina (Etna). This fragrant red 89 has aromas of wild red berry, Mediterra- Torre Mora 2019 Cauru (Etna). Fresh and nean scrub and citrus with a smoky whiff of gun- 91 fruity, this has aromas of wild berries, blue flint. Smooth and easy-drinking, the polished palate flowers and a hint of spice. On the easygoing palate, offers juicy black cherry, blood orange and baking lithe tannins seamlessly support juicy strawberry, spice alongside a hint of graphite accompanied by blood orange and wild herbs before a hint of rusty lithe tannins. Drink through 2023. Deutsch Family nail. It’s made to be enjoyed young, so drink soon. 8 Wine and Spirits. —K.O. Vini, Inc. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $26 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Valenti 2014 Puritani (Etna). Delicate scents Torre Mora 2017 Scalunera (Etna). Aromas of 89 evoking wild berries and Mediterranean 91 scorched earth, French oak and eucalyptus scrub form the subtle nose on this smooth red. waft out of the glass. On the linear palate, close- Elegantly structured but already rather evolved, the grained, drying tannins frame dried cherry, toasted subdued, accessible palate suggests dried cherry, hazelnut and saline before a roasted coffee bean clove and a hint of saline alongside dusty tannins. close. 8 Vini, Inc. —K.O. Drink soon. Vino Veritas. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

Barone di Villagrande 2017 Etna. Made with Vivera 2014 Martinella (Etna). Made with 90 80% Nerello Mascalese 10% Nerello Cap- 88 90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello puccio and 10% Nerello Mantellato, this fragrant Cappuccio, this opens with aromas of French oak, red has compelling aromas of iris, plum, baking toasted hazelnut and underbrush. On the palate, spice and Mediterranean brush. It’s almost ethere- close-grained, not very persistent yet drying tan- ally elegant, featuring ripe blackberry, blood orange, nins support dried cherry, bitter almond and a licorice and rusty iron alongside polished tannins. hint of coffee bean. Drink sooner rather than later. Drink through 2025. Omniwines Distribution. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Fattorie Romeo del Castello 2016 Vigo Ner­ Fedegraziani 2017 Profumo di Vulcano 87 ello Mascalese (Etna). Aromas of French 90 (Etna). Scorched underbrush, used leather, oak, coconut and camphor lead the nose. Reflecting baked plum and light barnyard aromas make for the nose, the taut palate offers dried cherry, prune an earthy nose. Reflecting the aromas, the velvety, and oak-driven spice set against grainy tannins that enveloping palate offers raspberry jam, vanilla, leave an astringent finish. It doesn’t have the fruit

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and a suggestion of chamomile. The mild palate echoes the dried-herb hint, finishing brisk and dry- ing, with lemony acidity and faint bitterness. abv: 15% Price: $18/1 L

SPIRITS Atxa Dry Vermouth (Spain; T. Edward Wines, Vermouth goes global 88 New York, NY). The subdued nose and pal- ate show hints of dried basil, menthol and an appro- priate amount of bitterness. A faint almond note round the world, vermouth is continuing pop of sun-soaked California citrus, like Seville trails into the clean finish. Recommended to mix. to expand in exciting ways. The category orange or grapefruit, yielding a less austere, abv: 15% Price: $19 shows increasing personality and flair, in more approachable style. part owing to where it is made. Out of Italy, Piedmont’s Cocchi has part- Massican Dry White Vermouth (USA; Mas­ ASpain, for example, capitalizes on the nered with the American Bar at London’s Savoy 88 sican Winery, St Helena, CA). This is a Napa Valley vermouth inspired by Piedmont’s vermouth winemaking traditions of Jerez with a spate Hotel to construct a bespoke Savoy Dry Ver- traditions. Fresh cut red apple aromas mingle with of Sherry-based vermouths from legacy mak- mouth—a key component in what’s regarded an earthy tone. The palate adds a mild apple under- ers such as Lustau and Gonzàlez Byass, among as one of the top Martinis in the world. First tone, finishing with a light brush of basil and tar- others. These entrants are com- produced in 2014, for years the ragon. plex and delicious enough to sip vermouth was available only abv: 16% Price: $20 straight, as well as to add inter- After all, at the at the five-star hotel. In 2019, est to cocktails­ like the classic heart of vermouth that agreement expired, and BLANC/BLANCO Bamboo, made with equal parts is wine, albeit now Cocchi can produce and C. Comoz Vermouth de Chambery Blanc Sherry and vermouth. aromatized and sell the vermouth more broadly, Meanwhile, California pro- though it’s still available in lim- 93 (France; Haus Alpenz, Easthampton, MA). This golden-hued vermouth offers peach nectar and ducers are taking strides toward fortified. ited quantities. ripe pear aromas. The palate is sweet and honeyed, building accessible, quaffa- What’s key to this vermouth showing stone fruit and vanilla, finishing moder- ble vermouths. Consider offer- is that it has the integrity of ately long and mildly sweet. Pleasing to sip or mix. ings from Massican Winery, one of the few ver- a crisp Italian white, laced with just enough abv: 16% Price: $17 mouth producers to provide vintage years on Alpine herbs to add a breezy, minty accent. It Berto White Vermouth (Italy; T. Edward their bottlings—after all, at the heart of ver- would sip well alongside fresh crudo as neatly 92 Wines, New York, NY). Burnished gold in the mouth is wine, albeit aromatized and forti- as it shores up a Martini. Frankly, it’s easy to see glass, this bianco-style vermouth has a mild, slightly fied. And Napa’s Mommenpop has debuted why the bartenders at the Savoy wanted to keep savory nose and palate. Each sip starts mouthwa- a line of fruity, juicy vermouths that seem to it for themselves. tering and herbaceous, rounding into caramelized straddle easy-drinking aperitif wines like Lil- Cheers! pineapple sweetness on the exhale. abv: 17% Price: $15/1 L let and standard vermouths. Each features a —Kara Newman Mommenpop D’Orange Orange Vermouth 92 (USA; Mommenpop, Napa, CA). Straddling the line between blanc vermouth and aperitif wine, this “Vin d’Orange” starts with a Chardonnay base, EXTRA DRY/DRY 1757 Vermouth di Torino Extra Dry (Italy; Cam­ flavored with Seville orange and spices and fortified 91 pari America, New York, NY). Light and herba- with American brandy. The flavor doesn’t scream González Byass Vermouth La Copa Extra ceous on the nose and palate, this vermouth offers “orange,” but it’s pleasant nevertheless, with hon- 96 Seco (Spain; González Byass, Chicago, IL). fading hints of green apple, rosemary and marjoram. eyed notes of golden raisin and Sherry, plus vanilla For full review see page 24. The lemon peel exhale winds into mouthwatering sweetness and a suggestion of tangerine. abv: 17% Price: $25 salinity. abv: 17% Price: $22 abv: 18% Price: $30/1 L Boissiere Extra Dry Vermouth (Italy; Palm Cinzano Vermouth Bianco (Italy; Campari 93 Bay International, Port Washington, NY). For Ransom Dry Vermouth (USA; Ransom Spirits, 91 America, New York, NY). On the dry side of full review see page 25. Best Buy. 91 Sheridan, OR). A distinctly floral aroma leads the bianco spectrum, this pale straw vermouth has abv: 18% Price: $9 the nose, revealing gentle honeysuckle and spice. a crisp fragrance that hints at melon and fresh tar- The palate is sweet-tart and extremely herbaceous, ragon. The palate echoes honeydew and adds fresh- Cinzano Vermouth Extra Dry (Italy; Campari leading with sprightly cucumber and basil, plus a cut apple, leading into a vanilla-tinged finish. Ver- 92 America, New York, NY). Look for a mild, notion of overripe peach, pulling up abruptly into satile to sip or mix. Best Buy. earthy aroma with hints of fresh melon and pear. the drying finish with lemon peel and lemon ver- abv: 15% Price: $8 The palate is brisk, crisp and fresh, opening with bena. lemon and a twist of bittersweet grapefruit peel, abv: 18.4% Price: $18/375 ml Guerin Vermouth Blanc (France; Heavenly finishing with a green melon exhale.Best Buy. 91 Spirits LLC, Lakeville, MA). Sweet, sticky and abv: 18% Price: $8 Berto Extra Secco (Extra Dry White Ver­ fruity, this rose-gold vermouth leads with straw- 89 mouth) (Italy; T. Edward Wines, New York, berry jam on the nose and palate, but finishes with NY). Golden in the glass, with an herbaceous aroma a tartness closer to cranberry. Made with a base of

130 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 Pineau de Charentes and finished in Cognac casks. orange peel note. Sip with a curl of orange peel to and fruity-floral aroma. The juicy palate opens with Best well-chilled. accent. cranberry and a mouthwatering citric hint, leading abv: 17% Price: $22 abv: 17% Price: $16/1 L into a violet-tinged exhale that lands with grape- fruit peel bitterness. Atxa White Vermouth (Spain; T. Edward 1757 Vermouth di Torino Rosso (Italy; Cam­ abv: 17% Price: $34 90 Wines, New York, NY). Look for dried cherry 92 pari America, New York, NY). Dried cherry and honey on the mild, lightly sweet nose and pal- and cranberry lead the nose and palate. Each sip Matthiasson Sweet Vermouth (USA; T. ate, winding into an herb-tinged finish. Botanicals layers on hints of unsweetened chocolate and dried 85 Edward Wines, New York, NY). This Napa include marjoram and rosemary, according to the date, finishing with a dry, lightly bitter grapefruit Valley vermouth has an amber-orange hue and producer. Sip or mix this bianco-style off-dry ver- peel note. distinctly fermented, funky presence. Overripe mouth. abv: 16% Price: $30/1 L orange peel leads into yeasty apple and grape, with abv: 15% Price: $19 an aggressively drying finish. Vermouth No. 3; 590 Cinzano Rosso (Italy; Campari America, New cases of half bottles produced. Alma de Trabanco Quiniquina En Rama 92 York, NY). An earthy aroma mingles with abv: 17% Price: $35/375 ml 88 (Spain; T. Edward Wines, New York, NY). coffee, dried fig, and dried cherry. The first sips open Those who love natural wines, ciders and en rama sweet, with cocoa powder and mocha leaning into a Sherry will want to try this boundary-pushing bot- hint of raspberry jam, though it dries out on the fin- tling. The base is an unfiltered apple cider, blended ish. Overall it’s balanced, versatile and should play with white wine and flavored with bittering agents, well in a wide range of cocktails. Best Buy. spices, fruit and other botanicals. The end result abv: 15% Price: $8 sips like an intriguing spin on mead—it has a golden, slightly cloudy appearance and bold, golden Ransom Sweet Vermouth (USA; Ransom raisin aroma. The palate suggests honey and dried 92 Spirits, Sheridan, OR). The bold, rich aroma fruit, finishing bitter and surprisingly brisk and dry, is redolent with cocoa, cinnamon, fig jam and straw- with a coriander exhale. berry compote. The palate echoes the nose, layer- abv: 15% Price: $24/1 L ing on dried date, walnut and strawberry-rhubarb, winding into a gentle, lingering waft of cocoa and spice. ROSÉ abv: 17.8% Price: $18/375 ml

Mommenpop Vin D’Pampe Pamplemousse Boissiere Sweet Vermouth (Italy; Palm Bay 95 Vermouth (USA; Mommenpop, Napa, CA). 90 International, Port Washington, NY). For For full review see page 25. full review see page 25. Best Buy. abv: 17% Price: $22/357 ml abv: 18% Price: $9

Vermut Lustau Rosé (Spain; Europvin USA, González Byass Vermouth La Copa Rojo 91 Van Nuys, CA). A juicy, easy-drinking new- 90 (Spain; González Byass, Chicago, IL). A comer made with a fino Sherry base blended with blend of oloroso and Pedro Ximenez Sherries form Moscatel wine and Tintilla de Rota, a fruity red the base of this plush, super-spiced sweet ver- wine from the Jerez region. The end result is a ver- mouth. Intense cinnamon and clove sing forward mouth with a pretty dusty-rose hue and grapefruit- from start to finish, lifted by cocoa and dried fig. tinged aroma. The palate is quite sweet and juicy, abv: 15.5% Price: $25 finishing with soothing vanilla. Serve over ice or mixed with tonic water. Guerin Vermouth Rouge (France; Heavenly abv: 15% Price: $20 90 Spirits LLC, Lakeville, MA). Rosy and bright in the glass, dried cherry aromas meet with a floral hint. The pleasing palate echoes the dried cherry, SWEET finishing dry with hints of grapefruit peel and cin- namon bark. Made with a base of Pineau de Charen- Atxa Red Vermouth (Spain; T. Edward Wines, tes and finished in an ex-Cognac cask. 94 New York, NY). Look for a deep ruddy hue. abv: 17% Price: $22 The rich aroma evokes cocoa, walnut and dried fig. The complex palate shows dried cherry and cran- Massican Sweet Red Vermouth (USA; Mas­ berry, finishing slightly sweet with a brush of dusty 90 sican Winery, St Helena, CA). This garnet- cocoa and licorice. Ideal for enhancing a Manhattan. hued Napa Valley vermouth is lean and drinks abv: 15% Price: $19 almost like a dry red wine. Fleeting blackberry and cherry give way to grapefruit peel astringency and Berto Red Vermouth (Italy; T. Edward Wines, plum skin bitterness, leading into coriander and 93 New York, NY). The bracing, mentholated black pepper on the finish. 2018 vintage. aroma and lightly bitter palate makes this sweet abv: 16% Price: $22 vermouth reminiscent of some amaros. Allspice and clove lead into a long, complex finish tinged with Mommenpop D’Sange Blood Orange Ver­ dried fig, walnut and espresso, perked up with an 88 mouth (USA; Mommenpop, Napa, CA). This fun spin on sweet vermouth blends a Pinot Noir base with blood oranges, yielding a bright ruby hue

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ries, this has all the flavor of a full IPA, as one would expect from this revered hop-forward brewery. It is a lively combination of citrus and spearmint that leaves the palate cool and refreshed. Perfect for a hot afternoon in the back yard, there is a cracker- BEER like malt backbone that brings the whole beer into IPAs for days balance. abv: 4% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack he India pale ale is the most popular style and sometimes dank—hops are part of the can- Highland AVL IPA (American IPA; Highland in craft beer. These hop-forward ales nabis family after all. Hops are typically added 97 Brewing, NC). If you’re looking for a particu- helped fuel the growth of the category during the boil, extracting oils and imparting lar fruit, you’re likely to find it in this well-executed as dedicated drinkers were drawn to the that desired bitterness. A more traditional grain ale. Each sip reveals something new from the cit- assertive,T intriguing and punchy aromas and bill of two-row and crystal malt is often used. rus and tropical fruit families but expect to find it clementine-forward at the start with a passion fruit flavors brought out by lupulin, a sticky pow- The New England-style IPA is newer to finish. der inside of hop cones. For a long time, IPAs the market and is celebrated for both its hazy abv: 6.5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack were most commonly associated look and juicy nature. Copi- with bitterness, but an evolu- ous amounts of hops are added Hop Butcher Funderbolt India Pale Ale (Juicy/ tion in the style has brought new IPAs were most to the beer after the wort has 97 Hazy India Pale Ale; Hop Butcher for the World, IL). With an intriguing aroma that is remi- fans into the fold and served as cooled or during the fermen- commonly niscent of stuffed grape leaves, including lemon and an introduction to craft beer for associated with tation process. The result is an herbal. It stands out from other IPAs based on the coming-of-age drinkers. bitterness, but an intense, floral hop character aroma alone. It evolves into a ripe raspberry flavor The IPA originated in Eng- with very little bitterness. This that is sugary sweet and continues to the finish. land where it was a well-hopped evolution in the style uses traditional malts but abv: 6.5% Price: $15/16 oz 4 pack beer with a noticeable malt base. also benefits from the addition style has brought Weldwerks Juicy Bits India Pale Ale (Juicy/ When the first generation of new fans into the of oats and wheat for a fuller 97 Hazy India Pale Ale; Weldwerks Brewing, CO). American craft brewers started fold. and softer mouthfeel. For full review see page 25. making the style 40 years ago, Two of the most popu- abv: 6.7% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack they turned up the dosage on the lar hops today are Citra and Gilman Quarter Panel India Pale Ale (Ameri­ hops, trying to push the needle on the Interna- Mosaic, prized for their citrus and tropical-fruit 96 can IPA; Gilman Brewing, CA). Slightly hazy tional Bitterness Unit (IBU) scale. forward aromas and flavors. Growers are regu- but rooted in the West Coast tradition, this easy- The West Coast IPA, also known as the larly creating new varieties that impart a whole drinking IPA boasts a combination of tropical fruit, American IPA, is often clear and dark golden or host of desirable aromas. Fruit purées and lac- pine and a bit of citrus in a combination that is copper in color, with classic hop aromas and fla- tose are also regularly added to recipes to yield refreshing and vibrant. Brewed with Amarillo, Mosaic and Simcoe hops it ticks all the boxes an IPA vors that can be described as pine, grapefruit different, tasty results. Cheers! —John Holl lover would want. abv: 6.2% Price: $16/16 oz 4 pack

New Realm Hoptropolis IPA (American IPA; 96 New Realm Brewing, GA). This IPA is full in Rhinegeist Truth India Pale Ale (American Clown Shoes Rainbows are Real (Juicy/Hazy feel, with soft tones of pineapple, pear and peach. 98 IPA; Rhinegeist Brewing, OH). This IPA is 97 India Pale Ale; Clown Shoes, MA). This is It’s a well-crafted recipe that treats each flavor with like being punched with an iron fist in a velvet glove. the kind of IPA that fans would line up for. It’s fun, balance. There’s something new to discover as you It is fun and engaging with mango and pineapple vibrant, prickly and a zesty sipper that calls for a make your way through a six pack. hop flavors that are soft and inviting, followed by tall glass on a hot day with some friends. Filled with abv: 6.5% Price: $NA/12 oz 6 pack orange, grapefruit and a finishing touch of pine. It lime zest aromas, spruce, melon, cinnamon, and a has diversity in each sip and it drinks just a little too little pepper spice this IPA is a real delight. Parish Dr. Juice IPA (Juicy/Hazy India Pale easy for its above average alcohol level. abv: 6.7% Price: $13/16 oz 4 pack 96 Ale; Parish Brewing, LA). With a soft and abv: 7.2% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack welcoming tropical hop bouquet, this hazy IPA is Community That IPA (American IPA; Commu­ charming and not too heavy handed. True to its Bell’s Two Hearted Ale (American IPA; Bell’s 97 nity Beer Works, NY). A low abv IPA that does name, this is all juice in the glass with papaya and 97 Brewery, MI). With an assertive hop charac- not sacrifice on taste. Cut from the cloth of West blood orange the dominant aromas and flavors. It ter that does not sacrifice the malt, there is a reason Coast IPAs, this golden amber and clear ale has finishes with a touch of pith-like bitterness. this is one of the more celebrated IPAs in the coun- low hop bitterness overall but is big on pine, green abv: 6% Price: $10/12 oz 4 pack try. Pine sap heavy on the aroma and flavor with a onion, and a little dried orange peel. Enjoy after a handful of fresh needles mixed in for good measure. long day of hiking while sitting around a campfire. Wallenpaupack Wake Surfer White IPA The caramel malt comes through in a soft, bready, abv: 4.9% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack 96 (Juicy/Hazy India Pale Ale; Wallenpaupack way, and a little bit of dried citrus in the overall dry Brewing, PA). Big boozy fun with clementine orange finish makes this an old school IPA in the best way. Firestone Walker Flyjack Hazy India Pale Ale sweetness. It’s like the brewers squeezed fresh juice abv: 7% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack 97 (Juicy/Hazy India Pale Ale; Firestone Walker Brewing, CA). A session IPA that boasts just 96 calo-

132 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 and a dusting of zest into each batch before packag- bright fruit and is a great way to end an evening and raspberry. There’s a little pine and orange on ing. A perfect brunch beer. after a rich, savory meal. the finish, a hop snap that keeps it assertive and abv: 5.5% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack abv: 7% Price: $10/12 oz 4 pack interesting without overwhelming the palate. abv: 6.3% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack Bent Water Thunder Funk IPA (Juicy/Hazy Resident Culture Universal Mind Hazy India 95 India Pale Ale; Bent Water Brewing, MA). One 95 Pale Ale (Juicy/Hazy India Pale Ale; Resident Lakefront IPA (American IPA; Lakefront of the brewery’s flagship beers, this is tropical fruit Culture Brewing, NC). Bright in tones of orange pulp 94 Brewery, WI). This is the kind of classic IPA forward with pineapple, melon, passion fruit and and tangerine interspersed with fizzy pineapple, that you can drink all day and never get bored of. mango on the nose and palate. Finishes with a dry this ale has a soft mouthfeel and only the slightest Clear and amber-colored with a small rocky head it honey quality and low bitterness. hint of bitterness. Despite all its juicy characteris- is pine-forward with just a hint of citrus rounded abv: 7.3% Price: $12/12 oz 6 pack tics, it finishes dry and invites another sip. out by a vinous quality that adds earthy depth. Get abv: 6.5% Price: $18/16 oz 4 pack a six pack, put the ball game on the radio, and enjoy Blackberry Farm IPA (Juicy/Hazy India Pale an afternoon of relaxation. 95 Ale; Blackberry Farm Brewery, TN). A lively Springdale IPA (Juicy/Hazy India Pale Ale; abv: 6.7% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack warm topical fruit combination, heavy on melon 95 Springdale Brewing, MA). A cross between and pineapple. Hazy and strong, it ends dry with an two styles (West Coast and New England) and picks Lawson’s Super Session #6 IPA (American orange pith accent. A delight in the glass. the best of both. Bright hops of grapefruit and pine 94 IPA; Lawson’s Finest Liquids, VT). An easy abv: 6.9% Price: $14/12 oz 6 pack mix with tropical flavors like pineapple. Each sip drinking IPA that is built for long, lazy afternoons, reveals something different. An IPA that deserves this version is generously hopped with Galaxy, giv- Castle Island Vern Mosaic Wheat IPA (Juicy/ your attention. ing it a bit of a peach and some orange blossom aro- 95 Hazy India Pale Ale; Castle Island Brew­ abv: 6.2% Price: $13/16 oz 4 pack mas and flavors. ing, MA). This offers a great mix of hop flavors abv: 4.8% Price: $12/12 oz 6 pack that include tangerine, melon and grapefruit, with Surly Furious IPA (American IPA; Surly Brew­ touches of pine and green onion. All mixed together, 95 ing, MN). This is a forward IPA with a hoppy Odell Mountain Standard IPA (Juicy/Hazy it is like a fun game of hide and seek in the glass. This punch that hits with the first sip and keeps com- 94 India Pale Ale; Odell Brewing, CO). The brew- is a beer that wants your attention and deserves it. ing back. It’s not one dimensional, however. There ery is trying to shepherd in a new style of IPA with abv: 6.8% Price: $15/16 oz 4 pack is a savory, earthy character accented by an herbal this beer. It’s not quite a west coast, although it has quality that gives the beer a tea-like dryness on the the dryness and bitter finish, and not quite an east Chapman Zodiac Series Taurus (Juicy/Hazy finish. coast, although it has some haze and is big on tropi- 95 India Pale Ale; Chapman Crafted Beer, CA). abv: 6.7% Price: $12/12 oz 6 pack cal juicy hops. It lands somewhere in the middle Bursting with a fruit salad of aromas including and thus is just right when you want a beer big on melon, orange and mango, this hazy yellow ale also The Hop Concept Dank and Sticky India Pale modern hops but with some assertive character that has a bit of a tart lemon note at the finish that keeps 95 Ale (American IPA; The Hop Concept, CA). keeps the taste buds at attention. the sweetness in check. A lush mouthfeel from the Boasting eight different hop varieties, this boozy, abv: 6.5% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack grain bill gives it a pillowy drinking experience. assertive, and downright delicious IPA could have abv: 7% Price: $19/16 oz 4 pack otherwise been a jumbled mess of flavors if left to a New Realm Hazy Like a Fox IPA (Juicy/Hazy lesser brewery. Thankfully no hops were harmed in 94 India Pale Ale; New Realm Brewing, GA). Cosmic Eye Everything Has Eyes Pose-Haze the making of this beer that delivers on its name in Orange-forward with a soft mouthfeel and a lot of 95 IPA (Juicy/Hazy India Pale Ale; Cosmic Eye both flavor and aroma. There are marijuana under- fun to drink. It’s a beer you can get lost in. Hazy Brewing, NE). This offers a combination of candied tones but also some passion fruit, spruce, a little golden yellow in color and a touch of sweetness on orange, stone fruit and a little bit of pine. It has a bit of lime, and a soft bread crust flavor that keeps the end. generously oat-forward beer base, which gives this everything in check. abv: 5.5% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack an easy-drinking quality that makes it perfect for abv: 8.5% Price: $11/16 oz 4 pack several rounds at the bar. Night Shift Fluffinity New England India Pale abv: 5.8% Price: $10/ 12 oz 6 pack Von Ebert Volatile Substance Northwest 94 Ale (Juicy/Hazy India Pale Ale; Night Shift 95 India Pale Ale (Juicy/Hazy India Pale Ale; Von Brewing, MA). Big on juicy fruit aromas and flavors. Lakefront Hazy Rabbit India Pale Ale (Juicy/ Ebert Brewing, OR). Strong presence of just ripening Dark copper with a lively thick foam head. Asser- 95 Hazy India Pale Ale; Lakefront Brewery, WI). tropical fruit including mango and pineapple kick tive hop character that is a bit oniony and grassy at It is golden and hazy but has all of the calling cards off this beer experience and just keep going until times threaded with caramel sugar before a mostly of a west coast IPA but without the bitter finish. It the end. Add in some toasted orange, a little vanilla, dry finish. has huge aromas of pine and grapefruit and just a and just the slightest hop burn on the finish and you abv: 7% Price: $16/16 oz 4pack little woody note on the end. It’s a fun drinking beer can have a complex IPA that won’t last long in your that straddles styles. fridge. Port City Monumental IPA (American abv: 6.8% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack abv: 6.9% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack 94 IPA; Port City, VA). Refreshing and thirst quenching, this bright copper and clear IPA does not New Realm Hoplandia IPA (American IPA; Bent Water Sluice Juice New England India beat up your palate with too many hops or an overly 95 New Realm Brewing, GA). A fun to drink IPA 94 Pale Ale (Juicy/Hazy India Pale Ale; Bent strong malt content. It has all the components for that is great for grilling out at home. A bit of west Water Brewing, MA). Hazy yellow juice bursting the style, but is reserved. It’s the perfect mid-day coast hop vibrancy with pine and grapefruit, but with aromas of lime leaves and citrus. It is soft and pint with lunch when you want a little flavor, but lacks overall bitterness, making it a juicy sipper. pleasing, with a mineral note that shows up now there is still work to be done later in the day. abv: 7.3% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack and again. It’s a beer you could drink all day and abv: 6.7% Price: $12/12 oz 6 pack keep finding new things to enjoy. Proof White Orchid American IPA (Juicy/ abv: 6.5% Price: $16/16 oz 4 pack Surly Axe Man IPA (American IPA; Surly 95 Hazy India Pale Ale; Proof Brewing, FL). This 94 Brewing Co., MN). An easy drinking west is a fun and almost silly beer that smells and tastes Cosmic Eye Unlock the Time Dragon (Juicy/ coast-style IPA that is copper in color, well dosed like a strawberry milkshake. It offers low bitterness, 94 Hazy India Pale Ale; Cosmic Eye Brewing, with pine and grapefruit but still lets the malt shine NE). Big on candy flavors like vanilla and spun sugar through. With a slight alcohol heat on an otherwise

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BUYINGGUIDE dry finish, it’s the kind of beer you want in a shaker Resident Culture Over Soul India Pale Ale commemorate the establishment of the Katahdin pint during a night out with friends at the bar. 93 (Juicy/Hazy India Pale Ale; Resident Culture Woods and Waters National Monument this IPA abv: 7.2% Price: $16/16 oz 4 pack Brewing, NC). Pale yellow murky juicy with haze has a lot of traditional hop aromas in grapefruit that suggests it was fermented miles from the near- and pine. The hops are strongest in the aroma and Toppling Goliath Intergalactic Warrior India est filter. With, lime, clementine and a touch of muted on the palate. It has a pleasing bitterness 94 Pale Ale (Juicy/Hazy India Pale Ale; Top­ guava it is a low bitterness IPA that doesn’t skimp that builds over the consumption of the bottle. pling Goliath Brewing, IA). Brewed with Galaxy and on the hop content. abv: 6.2% Price: $6/500 ml Warrior hops, this IPA starts off with tropical fruit abv: 7% Price: $18/16 oz 4 pack ­aromas that yield to lemon peel and orange on the Pure Force of Nature Murky IPA (Juicy/Hazy palate. It is generously hopped and juicy, with a Two Roads Cloud Sourced Hazy Juicy IPA 91 India Pale Ale; Pure Project, CA). A mixture of smooth body and foam that coats the glass. The fin- 93 (Juicy/Hazy India Pale Ale; Two Roads Brew­ floral and pine-forward hops with just a touch a cit- ishes is slightly spicy, which helps keep the sweet- ing, CT). Brewed with six different variety of hops rus, this IPA is built for the modern era and has all ness in check. this hazy yellow ale starts with a lively lime-forward­ the haze-forward elements that create a soft mouth- abv: 6.2% Price: $15/16 oz 4 pack aroma. In the middle there is an earthy, low pine feel and bright hop aroma. Finishes with a touch of flavor that perks up the taste buds before it settles bitterness on the end to keep things interesting. Von Ebert Wolf Summoner American IPA into a herbal lemon finish. abv: 6.5% Price: $21/16 oz 4 pack 94 (American IPA; Von Ebert Brewing, OR). It abv: 6.5% Price: $12/12 oz 6 pack has a vibrant, spicy hop character with a little bit Reuben’s Crikey IPA (American IPA; Reuben’s of pineapple and ripe mango on the edges. Bitter- 4 Noses ‘Bout Damn Time India Pale Ale 91 Brews, WA). Soft and malt forward with some ness is mellow throughout and it finishes with a 92 (American IPA; 4Noses Brewing Co., CO). peach hop aroma accented by grapefruit. Green and swoosh of sweetness. It is always a good choice for Bronze colored and slightly hazy, a pour into a glass lively in flavor and orange golden in color. your glass. reveals a good, thick head of foam that leaves won- abv: 6.9% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack abv: 6.4% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack derful lacing on the glass. It’s hop forward but does not forget the malt and leaves you thirsty for more. Reuben’s Mind the Gap IPA (American IPA; 4 Noses Revised Copy New England Style abv: 7.1% Price: $12/12 oz 6 pack 91 Reuben’s Brews, WA). An easy-going session 93 India Pale Ale (Juicy/Hazy India Pale Ale; 4 IPA that delivers on a hop promise without the need Noses Brewing, CO). Full bodied and soft with easy Chapman Scenic Route (American IPA; Chap­ for a tongue scraper afterwards. Predominantly cit- tropical fruits and just a little bit of alcohol heat 92 man Crafted Beers; CA). Clear, bright and rusy, there are some catty notes that emerge here and bitterness on the finish, this is brewed with easy drinking. Orange and tangerine flavors mixed and there during sips that keep the palate paying Amarillo, Citra and Simcoe hops. The combination with big tropical aromas. Take your time with this attention. Finishes dry with a bit of cracker malt. brings a brightness in both the fruit and pine notes one and see where it takes you. abv: 5.3% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack that envelop this hazy gem. abv: 7.4% Price: $18/16 oz 4 pack abv: 7.2% Price: $17/16 oz 4 pack Dust Bowl Hops of Wrath India Pale Ale Lamplighter Cloud City India Pale Ale (Juicy/ 90 (American IPA; Dust Bowl Brewing, CA). Barn Town Citra Neon Hazy IPA (Juicy/Hazy 92 Hazy India Pale Ale; Lamplighter Brewing, Pine and grapefruit hops with some bitterness on 93 India Pale Ale; Barn Town Brewing, IA). A MA). Big aromas of candied orange, clementine and the finish. It has a rustic character with an earthi- dull, hazy pale yellow ale with big flavors of tan- flowers. A sweet, honeylike taste that is like spring- ness and a little vegetal, with some alcohol heat. gerine and sweet orange mixed with a little bit of time in a glass. It’s a lively a fun beer that is perfect abv: 6.6% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack papaya and mango. It is fun and vibrant, and cut for a warm afternoon outdoors. from the new cloth of IPA with all of the juicy char- abv: 6.6% Price: $16/16 oz 4 pack Two Roads Wee Demon IPA (American IPA; acter a drinker should expect. 90 Two Roads Brewing, CT). A “low-cal” IPA at abv: 6.5% Price: $21/16 oz 4 pack Wormtown Be Hoppy India Pale Ale (Ameri­ just 95 calories and a low abv make this an appeal- 92 can IPA; Wormtown Brewery, MA). For full ing IPA for long afternoons at a backyard party or Barn Town Neon Hazy IPA (Juicy/Hazy India review see page 25. during softball games with friends. Malt forward 93 Pale Ale; Barn Town Brewing, IA). A proper abv: 6.5% Price: $13/16 oz 4 Pack with candied orange hops and a little bit of bitter- representation of the New England-style IPA all ness on the finish. the way from the Midwest. Brewed with mosaic Barrel Culture Young CEO Hazy IPA (Juicy/ abv: 3.8% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack and citra hops this pours a murky yellow with a 91 Hazy India Pale Ale; Barrel Culture Brewing, juice-like body and presents with a lemon-forward NC). With a slightly dense body, this pleasing hazy West Sixth IPA (American IPA; West Sixth aroma. That’s followed by warm pineapple and a yellow-colored IPA delivers with tropical fruit fla- 90 Brewing, KY). Packs a hop punch of pine little mango and tangerine on the palate. vors, including a touch of coconut, accented by tart and grapefruit and although it has some haze, this abv: 6.5% Price: $16/16 oz 4 pack line. Finishes with a slightly astringent twang and golden orange ale is more of a classic American ver- a bit of wood. sion of the style. Barrelhouse Juicy IPA (Juicy/Hazy India abv: 6.5% Price: $17/16 oz 4 pack abv: 7% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack 93 Pale Ale; Barrelhouse Brewing Co., CA). Bright with tangerine, mango and passionfruit and Eppig 10:45 to Denver India Pale Ale (Ameri­ Albright Grove Newfound Gap Double-Dry rounded with a tart lemon curd this is an IPA to 91 can IPA; Eppig Brewing, CA). A classic West 89 Hopped IPA (Juicy/Hazy India Pale Ale; start off the day thanks to a dryness at the finish Coast IPA with the dank experience one would Albright Grove Brewing Co., TN). Generously double that mimics a Mimosa. A touch of spice throughout expect but with the addition of a tropical fruit dry hopped and brewed with locally grown malt, keeps things lively. thread that tamps down some of the bitterness. It’s oats, and wheat this IPA has an earthy and spicy abv: 6.5% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack not quite a hybrid, but tradition giving a nod to cur- aroma and flavor, rounded out with a fruity charac- rent trends. ter that gives it a sweet finish. Orono Tubular India Pale Ale (Juicy/Hazy abv: 7% Price: $16/16 oz 4 pack abv: 7.2% Price: $15/16 oz 4 pack 93 India Pale Ale; Orono Brewing, ME). For full review see page 25. Maine Beer Company Woods & Waters India Lost Worlds Vista West Coast India Pale Ale abv: 7.2% Price: $16/16 oz 4 pack 91 Pale Ale (American IPA; Maine Beer Company, 89 (American IPA; Lost Worlds Brewing, NC). ME). Brewed with locally harvested ingredients to This is a very green IPA, with a sweet vegetal char-

134 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 acter. The palate offers a green, stalky middle, with a pine and slightly citrusy hop bitterness ot the­ fin- ish. abv: 7.2% Price: $16/16 oz 4 pack

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