Buyingguide October2020
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BUYINGGUIDE OCTOBER2020 THIS MONTH 2 CALIFORNIA 110 PIEDMONT 54 OREGON 116 LOMBARDY 69 WASHINGTON 118 NORTHEAST ITALY 78 CANADA 123 CAMPANIA 79 ARGENTINA 124 PUGLIA 82 AUSTRALIA 127 SICILY 86 SPAIN 130 SPIRITS 88 ALSACE 132 BEER 98 BORDEAUX Vineyard in Santa Rita Hills at sunrise FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS MACDUFF EVERTON MACDUFF WINEMAG.COM | 1 BUYINGGUIDE nose of this dark, inky wine. There’s a hint of cara- mel on the palate, and then zesty flavors of black- berry, cola, brown sugar and cracked pepper, framed by deeply textured structure and tons of refreshing acidity. —M.K. CALIFORNIA abv: 15.2% Price: $75 The Central Coast’s cool-climate Syrahs Copain Wines 2016 Hawk’s Butte Syrah (Yorkville Highlands). An enticing aroma early two decades ago, it was a sip of expressions is called rotundone, which also 94 of violets and dark chocolate leads to concentrated, cool-climate Syrah that revealed to me shows up in peppercorns and rosemary. Pope deep flavors that are beefy, berry-like and a bit pep- the sensory magic of wine—the way that isn’t sure why levels spike in cooler climates, pery, giving the wine lots of complexity and interest. fermented grape juice can taste more like but has heard they increase as grapes mature. Fine-grained tannins add nicely to the mouthfeel. Ncured meat, dried flowers and cracked pepper “Maybe because we have a much longer grow- Best from 2024. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $50 than just simple fruit and smoked wood. To this ing season, the rotundone levels could build day, Syrah from cooler regions, whether the up higher, before sugar and ripeness levels are Donnachadh 2017 Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills). wind-whipped Northern Rhône reached,” said Pope, who often Bloody meats, squid ink, black raspberry, 94 or California’s ocean-chilled picks her Syrah in mid- to late- crushed rocks and char show on the nose of this Central Coast, still fascinates my The compound November. bottling. The palate is loaded with dried herbs, lav- ender and black plum flavors, finishing with a pinch palate most. In Santa Barbara County’s that causes these of white pepper. —M.K. Such spice, game and floral expressions is Sta. Rita Hills, producers such abv: 13.5% Price: $45 notes aren’t for everybody, and called rotundone, as Melville have been inter- the style can be quite divisive rupting the region’s heavy flow Jeff Cohn 2017 Buffalo Hill Rockpile Vineyard Syrah (Rockpile). Aged in 100% new French at parties, with half loving the which also shows of Pinot Noir with such Syr- 94 oak, this wine offers substantial layers of leather, wine and the other half believ- ahs for decades. Chad Melville up in peppercorns black pepper and blackberry jam. Luscious and ing something ran afoul in the and rosemary. founded Samsara Winery in opulently over-the-top in style, it packs remarkable bottle. But for those who do opt 2002 to push these extremes, power and flavor into a satisfyingly cohesive whole. for challenging complexity over and Winemaker Matt Brady —V.B. casual comfort, Central Coast Syrahs offer this continues the tradition. abv: 15.5% Price: $125 style in spades. Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, Cass 2016 Backbone Estate Grown Syrah The most extreme example of this style is you’ll find reviews from Italy, France, Argentina, (Paso Robles). For full review see page 8. 93 from Stolo Vineyards. Grown just miles from Australia and beyond. Be sure to check out our abv: 14.5% Price: $49 the rugged San Luis Obispo County coastline, online database at winemag.com/ratings for Nicole Pope’s wines are redolent with stunning thousands more reviews. Copain Wines 2016 Les Voisins Syrah (York ville Highlands). Nicely ripe fruit aromas pepper notes. The compound that causes these Cheers! —Matt Kettmann 93 and flavors meet seductive baking-spice and choco- late accents in this medium-bodied, poised and silky textured wine. It’s surprisingly elegant and well balanced for a wine so concentrated. —J.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $36 Stolo 2018 Syrah (San Luis Obispo County). Melville 2018 Donna’s Block Syrah (Sta. Rita This extremely cool-climate style of Syrah Hills). Cracked black pepper, black currant Drew 2017 Valenti Syrah (Mendocino Ridge). 97 96 can be divisive, but this is a brilliant version for and dark violet make for a cool-climate expression Potent and peppery, this bold and tannic 93 those who crave the savory experience. Aromas of with tons of floral smoothness. There is heft to wine is packed with meaty, smoky, black-pepper underripe blackberry, seaweed, green peppercorn, the sip, where black pepper, dried herbs and black and blackberry flavors wrapped in a firm gripping rosemary, lavender and charred lamb lead into a fruits are sliced by a zesty acidity. —M.K. texture that needs cellaring to soften. It was made palate that bursts with acidity. Flavors of violet, bay abv: 14.1% Price: $48 with 75% whole clusters and aged in neutral oak. leaf, wet rocks and more pepper decorate the purple Best after 2027. —J.G. fruits. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Samsara 2015 Om Reserve Syrah (Santa abv: 13% Price: $50 abv: 13.2% Price: $46 Barbara County). Fresh black-plum and 95 black-raspberry aromas are cut by lavender, rose- Jeff Cohn 2017 Silver Eagle Vineyard Syrah McPrice Myers 2017 Cuvée Kristina Syrah mary and iodine on the floral-focused nose of this (Russian River Valley). From a Ulises Val- 93 (Paso Robles). Deep and rich aromas of cas- reserve bottling. Layers of nori wrap, roast beef and dez-farmed vineyard, this tastes of strawberry jam, 96 sis, wet slate, lavender and a touch of pine needle are black cardamom meet with black fruit on the palate, nutmeg and white pepper. Secondary layers of meat layered and lavish on the nose of this Syrah, which proving denser than other Melville Syrahs, confirm- and garrigue develop along a full-throttled, softly also includes 2% each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Gra- ing its reserve status. —M.K. round and rich palate of lush opulence and ripeness, ciano and Clairette Blanche. The palate is hefty but abv: 14.3% Price: $75 leading to a hit of leather. —V.B. smooth, showing blackberry and black-currant fla- abv: 15.6% Price: $85 vors spiced up by vanilla, cardamom and star anise. Villa Creek 2018 3 Syrah (San Luis Obispo Drink now through 2030. Cellar Selection. —M.K. County). Roasted black-currant, charred 95 abv: 14.8% Price: $75 beef crust and iodine aromas are redolent on the Continued on page 25 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2020 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Edi- tors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in Eng- Cliff Lede 2017 Poetry Cabernet Sauvignon land; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Austin Hope 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi (Stags Leap District). The producer’s Poetry Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean 96 P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey. gnon (Paso Robles). Luxurious, lush aromas Vineyard is steep and at a high-elevation for the 96 If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s of black cherry, caramel, clove and oak show on the appellation. The wine opens in tones of tar, tobacco initials appear following the note. When no initials appear fol- lowing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more nose of this reserve bottling. Polished tannins frame and brooding black currant, with highlights of cedar, reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all the unctuous palate, where black cherry and cream lavender and sage. It’s powerfully built and concen- tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by John Holl. tones meet with milk chocolate and mint while trated, showing the structure to last in the cellar. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its bright acidity pops on the finish. —M.K. Best from 2027–2032. Cellar Selection. —V.B. suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us abv: 15% Price: $125 abv: 15% Price: $285 by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended.