HOW DO WE FEEL ABOUT NATURAL WINE? We Drink, Breathe, and Sleep Thinking About the History of the Humble Grape and Its Importance in the World
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HOW DO WE FEEL ABOUT NATURAL WINE? We drink, breathe, and sleep thinking about the history of the humble grape and its importance in the world. Kinda a lot of pressure for a fermented beverage, but we know Wine can handle it. We’ve gone all in on natural wine because we believe in celebrating farmers and other stewards of the land who work tirelessly to create biodiverse landscapes. Think of wine as a transmitter of a certain place and time in history: if made with nothing but grapes, a bottle has the ability to tell us what the soil in the vineyard is composed of, what the weather was like in a given vintage, and what the surrounding flora and fauna are doing. Cover it up with any number of 60-plus legal chemical additives, and what are you left with? Something engineered that no longer transmits its story. There is no official definition of what natural wine is. But we have our definition, and here’s our promise: every wine on this list is grown organically or biodynamically, free of any chemicals in the vineyard. Every wine on this list is made without any additives except sulfur, which is naturally occurring in grapes. Every wine on this list is fermented with its own living, wild yeast. And every wine on this list is made in small, or very small, amounts. It’s difficult to find fault with any of that. We love these wines and the people behind them, and we hope you do too. Corkage: $20 per 750ml not on our list, limit 2 bottles per party. Thank you. BY THE GLASS SPARKLING Domaine des Terres Blanches ‘Ancestral’, Loire Valley FR 2015 Chenin Blanc 12 Melaric ‘Globules Roses’, Loire Valley FR 2013 Cabernet Franc 13 WHITE Domaine de La Pépière Muscadet, Loire Valley FR 2016 Melon de Bourgogne 10 Olivier Pithon ‘Cuvée Laïs’, Côtes Catalanes, Rousillon FR 2015 Maccabeu, Grenache Gris and Blanc 13 Auxerrois, Müller-Thurgau, Château de Vaux ‘Gryphées’, Moselle FR 2015 11 Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer Angiolino Maule ‘Masieri’, Veneto IT 2015 Garganega 12 Weiser-Kuenstler Riesling, Mosel GER 2016 Riesling 12 ORANGE/ROSÉ Trebbiano, Malvasia, Verdicchio, Monastero Suore Cistercensi ‘Ruscum’, Lazio IT 2015 15 Grechetto Frantz Saumon ‘Vin de Frantz’, Loire Valley FR 2016 Gamay, Grolleau 12 RED Bernard Baudry Chinon 'Les Granges’, Loire Valley FR 2015 Cabernet Franc 11 Bigardo ‘Vino Tinto Experimental’, Toro ESP 2015 Tinto de Toro 14 Claus Preisinger ‘Puszta Libre!’, Burgenland AUT 2015 Zweigelt, St. Laurent 12 Martinčič Cviček, Posavje SLO (served chilled) 2015 Žametovka, Frankinja, Kraljevina, etc. 11 Colombera & Garella Coste della Sesia, Alto Piedmont IT 2013 Nebbiolo, Croatina, Vespolina 13 BOTTLES SPARKLING FRANCE/WHITE Dominique Belluard ‘Mont Blanc’, Savoie 2012 Gringet 87 Dominique Belluard ‘Les Perles du Mont Blanc’, Savoie NV Gringet 40 Philippe Tessier ‘Phil’en Bulle’, Loire Valley NV Menu Pineau, Romarantin 48 Martin Texier ‘Petite Nature’, Rhône 2015 Chasselas, Muscat 41 Marie-Courtin Extra Brut ‘Efflorescence’, Champagne 2012 Pinot Noir 118 Thomas Perseval Extra Brut ‘Tradition’, Champagne 2012 Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay 99 Jacques Lassaigne Brut ‘Vignes de Montgueux’, Champagne NV Chardonnay 85 Champagne Bourgeois-Diaz Extra Brut ‘3C’, Champagne NV Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier 78 FRANCE/ROSÉ Tarlant ‘Rosé Zero’, Champagne NV Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier 120 Le Sot de l’Ange ‘Sottise’, Loire Valley 2015 Gamay, Grolleau 46 Terres Dorées ‘FRV100’, Beaujolais 2014 Gamay 38 ITALY/WHITE Ca’ dei Zago Prosecco col Fondo, Veneto 2015 Glera, Verdiso, Perera, Bianchetta 39 Casa Coste Piane ‘Brichet’, Veneto 2015 Glera 42 Angiolino Maule ‘Garg'n'Go', Veneto 2015 Garganega 38 iClivi ‘R_B_L’, Friuli NV Ribolla Gialla 44 ITALY/RED Cà de Noci ‘Sottobosco’, Emilia Romagna 2014 Grasparossa, Montericco, Malbo, etc. 45 Vigneto Saetti Lambrusco, Emilia Romagna 2015 Salamino di Santa Croce 33 OTHER REGIONS/WHITE Recaredo ‘Terrers’ Brut Nature Gran Reserva Cava, Penedes ESP 2009 Xarel-lo, Macabeo, Parellada 65 Štoka Vitovska, Kras SLO 2015 Vitovska 40 Swick Wines Pet’ Nat, Columbia Valley, Washington USA 2016 Verdelho 38 Montebruno Columbia Gorge, Washington USA 2014 Gewürztraminer 44 OTHER REGIONS/ROSÉ Via de la Plata Brut Cava, Extremadura ESP NV Garnacha, Pinot Noir 32 BOTTLES WHITE FRANCE Fraincois Cazin Cour-Cheverny ‘Cuvée Renaissance’, Loire Valley 2014 Romarantin 39 Le Sot de l’Ange ‘Sec Symbole’, Loire Valley 2015 Chenin Blanc 41 Gérard Boulay Sancerre ‘Monts Damnés’, Loire Valley 2015 Sauvignon Blanc 78 Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon ‘No. 2’, Loire Valley 2014 Sauvignon Blanc 40 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet ‘Clos des Briords’, Loire Valley 2015 Melon de Bourgogne 36 Complémen’Terre Muscadet ‘Le Petite Mortier Gobin’, Loire Valley 2014 Melon de Bourgogne 43 Marc Pesnot Muscadet ‘Nuitage’, Loire Valley 2014 Melon de Bourgogne 46 Marc Pesnot ‘La Folle Blanche Equinoxe’, Loire Valley 2015 Folle Blanche 41 Léon Boesch ‘Zinnkoepfle’, Alsace 2014 Gewürztraminer 58 Château de Vaux ‘Les Mages’, Moselle 2013 Müller-Thurgau 42 Dominique Belluard ‘Les Alpes’, Savoie 2015 Gringet 81 A NEW DOMAINE LABET: 4th generation grower and winemaker, Julien Labet, had, for many years made wine separately from his family’s estate. Domaine Labet remained in his father’s stead, while Julien started his own label focusing on ouillé styles of white wines, something that was a departure from the history of the Jura. The two estates have now merged: Domaine Labet is run by Julien and they have seamlessly blended the tradition of sous-voile whites (nutty, oxidized, from un-topped barrels) with new-ishly popular ouillé whites (fresh, minerally, from topped-up barrels). His wines labeled ‘Fleur’ are of this new ilk. Not to be missed: Julien’s Vin Jaune, a heady, rich, intensely oxidized white aged 6 years in barrel sous-voile before release. Domaine Labet Chardonnay ‘Fleur’, Jura 2014 Chardonnay 44 Domaine Labet Chardonnay ‘Les Varrons’, Jura 2014 Chardonnay 64 Domaine Labet Savagnin ‘Fleur-En Chalasse’, Jura 2014 Savagnin 64 Domaine Labet Vin Jaune, Jura 2008 Savagnin 120 Domaine des Marnes Blanche ‘Empreinte Tradition’, Jura 2011 Savagnin, Chardonnay 50 Domaine des Cavarodes ‘Les Lumachelles’, Jura 2014 Chardonnay 60 Gérard Duplessis Premier Cru ‘Vaillons’, Chablis 2013 Chardonnay 75 Vincent Paris ‘Granit Blanc’, Rhône 2015 Viognier, Roussanne 45 Dard & Ribo Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône 2014 Roussanne, Marsanne 82 BOTTLES WHITE ITALY Franco Noussan ‘Blanc du Tzanté’, Valle d’Aoste 2013 Pinot Grigio 58 Fattoria San Lorenzo ‘Il San Lorenzo’, Marche 2002 Verdicchio 125 Salvo Foti ‘Vigna di Milo’, Sicily 2014 Carricante 72 GERMANY J.B. Becker Spätlese Trocken ‘Walkenberg’, Rheingau 1994 Riesling 71 J.B. Becker Spätlese Trocken ‘Walkenberg’, Rheingau 2002 Riesling 67 J.B. Becker Spätlese Trocken ‘Walkenberg’ Alte Reben, Rheingau 2013 Riesling 48 Peter Lauer Spätlese ‘Lambertskirch', Saar 2014 Riesling 67 Weiser-Künstler Spätlese ‘Enkircher Ellergrub”, Mosel 2015 Riesling 60 Vetter ‘Steinterrassen Sandstein’, Franken 2013 Silvaner 56 Luckert Silvaner Trocken ‘Sulzfelder’, Franken 2015 Silvaner 43 OTHER REGIONS Nikolaihof ‘Hefeabzug’, Wachau AUT 2013 Grüner Veltliner 54 Johnneshof Reinisch ‘Spiegel’, Thermenregion AUT 2012 Zierfandler 61 Schellmann ‘In Gumpoldskirchen’, Thermenregion AUT 2012 Zierfandler, Rotgipfler 52 Apátsági Somló, HUN 2014 Hárslevelu 48 Tinon ‘Birtok’, Tokaj HUN 2014 Furmint 49 Ulibarri Artzaiak Bizkaiko Txakolina, Basque Country ESP 2009 Hondarrabi Zuri 63 Ulibarri Artzaiak Bizkaiko Txakolina, Basque Country ESP 2014 Hondarrabi Zuri 45 Bodega y Viñedos Akilia ‘K’, Bierzo ESP 2014 Palomino, Doña Blanca 63 UNITED STATES Minimus ‘I Have VA’, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2015 Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Aligoté 53 Bow & Arrow Melon, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2015 Melon de Bourgogne 35 Smock Shop Band Columbia Gorge, Washington 2014 Chardonnay, Pinot Gris 54 Forlorn Hope Picpoul, Calaveras County, California 2014 Picpoul 57 BOTTLES ORANGE WINE? The bottles below might be the closest representation of how wine was made over 5,000 years ago in the Republic of Georgia…what some may consider the ‘first’ wine ever produced. White grapes are left to ferment on their skins in barrels, steel vessels, or clay amphorae, lending all shades of color from golden yellow to burnt amber, as well as tannin, texture, and loads of complexity. Aromatics and flavors run the spectrum of toasted nuts, beeswax, mottled fruits, and farmhouse cider. They are a little wink at history and tremendous food wines. ORANGE/SKIN CONTACT FRANCE Jean-Yves Peron ‘La Petite Robe’, Savoie 2013 Jacquere 53 ITALY Foradori ‘Fuoripista’, Trentino 2015 Pinot Grigio 86 Škerk Vitovska, Friuli 2014 Vitovska 60 Radikon ‘Oslavje’, Friuli (500ml) 2008 Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc 78 Ezio Trinchero ‘Sogno di Bacco’, Piedmont 2014 Malvasia 66 Testalonga Bianco, Liguria 2015 Vermentino 62 La Stoppa ‘Ageno’, Emilia Romagna 2011 Malvasia, Ortrugo, Trebbiano 57 Paolo Bea ‘Arboreus', Umbria 2010 Trebbiano Spoletino 82 Vino di Anna Etna Bianco, Sicily 2014 Grecanico, Carricante, Riesling, etc. 72 Guccione ’T', Sicily 2015 Trebbiano 82 OTHER REGIONS Marenas Viñedo y Bodega ‘Mediacapa’, Andalucía ESP 2014 Pedro Ximenez 41 Kabaj Rebula, Goriška Brda SLO 2013 Rebula 56 Johan Vineyards ‘Drueskall’, Willamette Valley, Oregon USA 2013 Pinot Gris 60 Minimus ‘#18 Gouges’, Willamette Valley, Oregon USA 2015 Pinot Gouges 70 ROSÉ Domaine la Manarie Côtes du Rhône FR 2016 Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah 30 Bastide du Claux ‘Poudrière’, Luberon FR 2016 Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Carignan 33 Gut Oggau ‘Winifred’, Burgenland AUT 2015 Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt 60 MicroBio Wines ‘Correcaminos’, Castilla y León ESP 2016 Tempranillo 36 Los Bermejos Lanzarote ESP 2016 Listán Negro 38 Štoka Kras SLO 2016 Teran 36 Bow & Arrow Willamette Valley, Oregon USA 2016 Gamay, Pinot Noir 33 BOTTLES OBSESSION: GEORGIA The Republic of Georgia, nestled in the Caucasus between Russia, Azerbaijan, Armenia, and Turkey, is arguably the birthplace of wine. At 8,000 years old, its history is extremely deep, entwined not only in the food culture, but in art, philosophy, and religion. Even the written language is believed to have been created as a representation of the twisting, fruit- bearing grape vine.