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BUYINGGUIDE FEBRUARY 2016

IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE

2 OREGON 23 CALIFORNIA 42 ARGENTINA 46 AUSTRALIA 47 PORTUGAL 55 SPAIN 61 63 66 67 SOUTHWEST FRANCE 70 87 GERMANY 93 96 SPIRITS Cover crop management BEER at Antiquum Farm in the 98 Willamette Valley, Oregon. MARC LOBJOY/ALAMY MARC

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS WINEMAG.COM | 1

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depth and density than its companion Bayliss- Bower designate. Along with the soft and sultry fruit flavors comes a cavalcade of barrel- generated details: baking spices, toasted coconut, caramel and salted peanuts. —P.G. OREGON abv: 13.5% Price: $55 The Golden Era Ponzi 2013 Reserve (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar regon’s modern era recently as the Jackson Family and Maison Lou- 94 Selection. passed the half century mark, and it’s re- is Jadot. The 2013 , though challenging, abv: 13.6% Price: $60 ally just in the past two decades that its has produced ageworthy, elegant Pinots from industry growth has accelerated. Such a many producers including Angela Estate, Anti- Ponzi 2013 Vigneto Pinot Noir (Willamette Oyoung region might be expected to be more of quum Farm, Archery Summit, Bethel Heights, 94 Valley). Vigneto annually honors a single grower from among Ponzi’s suppliers; here the spot- a work in progress than one capable of attract- Elk Cove, the Eyrie , Owen Roe, Ponzi light is Bieze vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills ing worldwide attention. But as the ratings and and Winderlea. AVA. The sweet raspberry fruit brings overtones reviews here show, Oregon’s growers and With their moderate alcohol levels, vibrant of spiced orange peel, clove and , and the vintners have accomplished near acidity and impressive balance has sustained length and power, with excep- miracles in a very short time. and length, these wines will not tional purity throughout. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $75 Great wines begin in the Oregon’s grape only shine when new, but with vineyards, and ongoing improve- growers and proper cellaring will age into the Archery Summit 2013 Red Hills Estate Pinot ments in clonal selection, root- vintners have resonant, subtle, palate-bend- 93 Noir (Dundee Hills). For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. stock and site selection, along accomplished near ing wines that make Pinot Noir with maturing vines in many the Holy Grail of winemaking. abv: 13% Price: $85 locations, have all contribut- miracles in a very There is much here to admire, Big Table Farm 2013 Sunnyside Vineyard Pi- ed. New AVAs—there are now short time. and much to explore. 93 not Noir (Willamette Valley). Among a fas- 18 in the state, and more on the Elsewhere in this issue’s cinating array of low-alcohol Pinots from this pro- way—have proven to be much Buying Guide, we have ducer, this is the standout. Bright, tart raspberry more than marketing gimmicks. When you taste additional New World reviews from California, fruit, immaculately clean and refreshing, is backed with crystalline minerality. There’s a touch of wet Pinot Noir from McMinnville, for example, it’s Argentina, Australia and Israel, as well as cement and a persistent, engaging finish.Editors’ distinctively different from Ribbon Ridge or Old World selections from Portugal, Spain, Choice. —P.G. Eola-Amity Hills. France, and Germany. As always, be abv: 11.5% Price: $48 Oregon is best known for its outstanding Pi- sure to check out our complete database at not Noir, which is why the Willamette Valley winemag.com/ratings. Ghost Hill 2012 Bayliss-Bower Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). For full re- continues to attract important investors such Cheers! —Paul Gregutt 93 view see page 5. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

Owen Roe 2013 Sojourner Vineyard Pinot 93 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This wine lives and opening scents, laden with complex and perfectly breathes , with the rock and wild herb char- PINOT NOIR fused notes of blackberry, mineral, coriander and acter of the AVA and the vivid cherry fruit of the cacao, right on through the extended, captivating vineyard. It’s beautifully proportioned, with a vein Ponzi 2013 Madrona Pinot Noir (Willamette finish, this is a wine that is almost impossible to of cola, a toasty bouquet and a focused finish.Edi - 96 Valley). For full review see page 3. Cellar put down, yet will drink well at least through 2025. tors’ Choice. —P.G. Selection. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $42 abv: 13.3% Price: $100 abv: 13.6% Price: $36 Sineann 2014 TFL Pinot Noir (Willamette Ponzi 2013 Aurora Vineyard Pinot Noir (Wil- Angela Estate 2012 Abbott Claim Pinot Noir 93 Valley). This is a reserve-level bottling, from 95 lamette Valley). This wine shows excep- 94 (Yamhill-Carlton District). Here is a power- Yates Conwill fruit, made in half bottles only. Dark, tional detail—scents of rose petals and milk choco- ful young wine with concentrated plum and cherry dense and concentrated, it shows hints of raisin- late, subtle suggestions of dried wood, incense and fruit. It’s beautifully built around perfectly ripened ing in the nose, yet is a balanced and potent wine smoke, and a vein of maple syrup. The foundation is tannins that provide solid support without being anchored in superb black cherry fruit. Enjoy it now the beautifully ripened cherry fruit, set in 50% new intrusive. Compact and well proportioned, it lingers and through 2021. —P.G. French . —P.G. with highlights of espresso grounds, dark chocolate abv: 14.8% Price: $30/375 ml abv: 13.5% Price: $100 and black tea. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $60 Angela Estate 2013 Pinot Noir (Yamhill- Sineann 2014 Wy’east Pinot Noir (Columbia 92 Carlton District). The label does not bear the 95 Gorge). Wy’east is better than ever in this Ghost Hill 2012 Prospector’s Reserve Pinot name Angela Vineyard, but the fruit is estate grown. vintage, a divine balancing act with berry, plum, 94 Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). A six-barrel Asian spices and chocolate all in focus. From the reserve selection, this offers a notch or two more Continued on page 16

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Manag- ing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Ital- Elvio Cogno 2011 Ravera (). This is an- ian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne other impressive effort from Cogno, offering Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim 95 Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors aromas of ripe dark-skinned fruit, fragrant flowers, Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. underbrush and menthol. The firm, precise palate If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini- offers dried black cherry, , , clove, tials appear following the note. When no initials appear follow- ing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more review- cocoa and mineral set against a tannic backbone and ers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Ponzi 2013 Madrona Pinot Noir (Willamette brisk acidity. Give this time to develop even more Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman Valley). Search carefully and you’ll note complexity. Drink 2019–2031. Wilson Daniels Ltd. and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. 96 Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its delicate scents of tamarind, cola, ginger, coriander, Cellar Selection. —K.O. suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us cocoa and pepper. The palate opens with a gener- abv: 14.5% Price: $76 by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content ous, exotic potpourri of baking spices, amaro, hon- cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. ey, dark chocolate and caramel. There is the slight- est hint of barnyard, and everything plays together TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. beautifully. Drink now through 2025. Cellar Selec- Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 tion. —P.G. samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or —but never abv: 13.3% Price: $100 the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Fairsing 2013 (Yamhill-Carlton District). Stunning is the only word that Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. 95 Superb 94–97: A great achievement. does justice to this exceptional wine. It’s fragrant Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. and compelling, from the first sniffs of almond Often good value; well recommended. Very Good 87–89: paste, butter cream and apple pie, right on through Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. a magnificent palate loaded with well-balanced Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- Arista 2013 Two Birds Estate Grown Pinot fruit, pastry and nut flavors. Rich, complex, and critical circumstances. 95 Noir (Russian River Valley). Chock-a-block beautifully proportioned, it rolls into a seamless, Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 full of strawberry, black cherry and a sliver of or- toasty finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. points) are not reviewed. ange peel, this wine is big-boned, well-structured abv: 14.2% Price: $42 SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS and fleshy. Mouthfilling and juicy, the palate shows Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price touches of black tea and tobacco, making for a lively with unique qualities that merit special attention. tension between the earthiness and exuberance of Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled to fruit. Drink now through 2022. Cellar Selection. reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation —V.B. does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but abv: 14.4% Price: $78 that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less, and are designated Best Buys after surpassing a specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo- cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast. net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make Ponzi 2013 Avellana Chardonnay (Willa- every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there mette Valley). This Ponzi-owned vineyard is is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or 95 that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be 2013 La Réserve de in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, yet is listed sim- accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may 95 l’Obédience Les Blanchots Grand Cru ply as Willamette Valley. Aromatically intense and be downloaded from our Web site. (Chablis). Named after the Laroche , intriguing, it opens quickly with scents of chamo- LABELS L’Obédiencerie, this wine is a selection from the mile, plum, peach and apricot, leading to hints of Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given Blanchots Grand Cru vineyard. It is rich, but en- honey and tea. Aged entirely in neutral oak, this the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information dowed with a taut minerality that cuts through the wine fully engages the palate through a lingering, on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax ripe green plum and crisp pear flavors. It demands beautifully proportioned and optimally ripe finish. 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. aging. Drink from 2020. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at abv: 13% Price: $170 abv: 13.2% Price: $60 buyingguide.winemag.com

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S.A. Prüm 2011 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Old 95 Vines GG Erste Lage Dry (Mosel). Fontanafredda 2011 Vigna La Rosa (Barolo). This late-release GG is a stunning showcase of how 94 Enticing scents of wild berries, violets, just a few years of bottle age impact a dry, richly grilled herbs and white pepper take center stage Happy Canyon Vineyard 2011 Barrack Family concentrated Riesling. Yellow peach and grapefruit in this structured wine. The taut palate offers suc- 94 Estate X Ten-Goal (Happy Canyon of Santa tones shine brightly still, but are glazed by layers culent red berry, clove, cooking spice and licorice Barbara). Quite approachable for such a heady of slick, penetrating minerals. While moderate in flavors alongside a network of firm, fine-grained blend of 82% , 5% , 5% alcohol, it feels dense and creamy on the palate. tannins. Drink 2018–2031. Palm Bay International. , 5% and 3% , The finish meanders almost endlessly, punctuated —K.O. this wine shows blueberry, black cherry, turned playfully by strikes of lemon-lime acidity. It’s sing- abv: NA Price: $96 loam and toasted sage on the dense nose. Though ing now, but should improve till at least 2020. Palm driven by ripe purple fruit and purple flower flavors, Bay International. —A.I. the palate is lightly spiced with cedar, juniper, to- abv: 12.5% Price: $50 bacco and turned earth. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $78

Gary Farrell 2013 Olivet Lane Vineyard Char- 94 donnay (Russian River Valley). Almond and anise open what evolves into a concentrated expres- sion of a stellar vineyard site in a great vintage in Benovia 2013 Chardonnay (Fort Ross- good winemaking hands. Honey and baked peach 94 Seaview). Sourced from the Martinelli initially fool the palate into anticipating that this Leto 2012 The Hidden One Estate Grown Cab- family’s Charles Vineyard out on the coast, this is wine might into full-blown hedonism, but 94 ernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). From a single a gorgeously rich and balanced , whole- subtle layers of lemon, grapefruit and pear keep it vineyard source, this wine offers sinewy blackberry cluster fermented and given just less than a quarter crisp, fresh and ultimately complex. Creamy, it re- and black currant, as well as a pleasant note of soy, of new French oak. Pretty, floral aromas of orange tains plenty of acidity for balance. —V.B. across a fine-grained background and integrated use blossom pique the nose before a compelling com- abv: 13.8% Price: $45 of French oak. Clove and black pepper star between bination of salty , ginger and lemon custard the layers of fruit, finishing harmoniously. —V.B. layer over a mountain of structured acidity. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14.2% Price: $48

Gary Farrell 2013 Rochioli-Allen Vineyards 94 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Marsh- mallow and fig compote provide the sultry goods Ponzi 2013 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Croix 2013 Starling Morelli Roost Chardon- in this wine from two exceptional vineyard sites 94 Valley). This bottling spent 20 months in 94 nay (Russian River Valley). From a Dutton within the appellation’s Middle Reach neighbor- French oak (30% new), and incorporates fruit from family-farmed site in the Green Valley of Russian hood. Borderline salty, with a scent of matchstick, it Ponzi’s Aurora, Abetina and Madrona vineyards. River Valley, this wine is seductively rich on the evolves in the glass into a complex, complete wine, Superripe aromas and flavors conjure up a rich and nose in honey and cinnamon toast, complement- elements of pear pie and lemon zest rising to the riveting mix of black cherry with amaro-like botani- ed by an exotic fruit profile in taste, a mixture of fore. —V.B. cal nuances. This profound wine is already irresist- peach, pear and baked pineapple. Complex and lay- abv: 14.3% Price: $55 ible, but stash a few bottles in your cellar, to drink ered, this will benefit from further aging. Drink now now through 2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. through 2021. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $60 abv: 14.2% Price: $75

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Spring Mountain Vineyard 2012 Elivette 94 (Napa Valley). Beginning with a velvety tex- Bel Colle 2011 Simposio (Barolo). Smoky ture and inviting bouquet of strawberry and rose, 93 aromas, underbrush, dark berry, clove and this classic blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% a whiff of leather slowly emerge on this structured García Figuero 2012 Viñas Viejas (Ribera del Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot and 2% Merlot is red. The palate displays power and finesse, deliver- 93 Duero). Concentrated tight-grained oaky grown on the winery’s 845-acre estate atop Spring ing juicy wild cherry, white pepper, tobacco, licorice aromas rest on top of deep smoky blackberry and Mountain. Kirsch, black pepper and chocolate com- and mineral alongside assertive but refined tan- cassis scents. This is solid as an ox and quite ripe bine atop a smooth, integrated palate that’s elegant nins and fresh acidity. It already has depth but hold across the palate. Flavors of blackberry, pepper, fine from start to finish, the oak tempered to good effect. for more complexity. Drink 2019–2029. Premium oak and herbs are integrated, while a toasty choco- Drink now through 2027. Cellar Selection. —V.B. Brands. —K.O. laty lightly herbal finish tastes and feels right. Drink abv: 14.2% Price: $150 abv: NA Price: $60 through 2022. Quintessential Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $69

Croix 2013 Old Manzana Slope Pinot Noir Travaglini 2009 Tre Vigne (Gattinara). 93 (Russian River Valley). From a Kirk Venge 94 Loaded with finesse, this luminous, struc- project devoted to coastal Pinot Noir and Char- Gary Farrell 2013 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot tured wine opens with enticing aromas of pressed donnay, this full-bodied, fruit-forward vineyard- 93 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Crisp undercurrents rose, wild berry, clove and a balsamic note. The designate comes from a Dutton Ranch property rich of tangerine, grapefruit and cranberry provide a polished, delicious palate smacks of raspberry jel- in Goldridge soil. Stemmy and cinnamon spicy, it’s brightness and light to this wine, which is velvety- ly, wild cherry, cinnamon and star anise alongside concentrated in black cherry and earth, with a twist smooth on the palate. An inaugural release for the bright acidity and lithe tannins. A mineral note en- of dried herb, wild rose and black pepper on the fin- producer from this vineyard, it bristles with cinna- ergizes the lingering finish. Drink 2018–2029. Palm ish. Give it until 2018 in bottle and enjoy through mon and clove, delving into black pepper spiciness Bay International. —K.O. 2025. Cellar Selection. —V.B. as well. Drink this structured wine now through abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.3% Price: $100 2023. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $70

Archery Summit 2013 Red Hills Estate Pinot Ghost Hill 2012 Bayliss-Bower Vineyard Pinot 93 Noir (Dundee Hills). One of the markers for Fontanafredda 2011 del Comune di Serralun- 93 Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). The color from the heart of the Dundee Hills is a deep 93 ga d’Alba (Barolo). Rose, violet, red berry, alone catches your attention; it’s a deep, smoky black-cherry fruit core, and it’s here in spades. In cake spice and aniseed are some of the aromas you’ll sunset hue that leads into an equally captivating this penetrating, powerful wine, that dense fruit find on this delicious Barolo. On the balanced pal- palate. Rich, warm and dense with cherry pastry fla- comes close to cassis, along with coffee and cola ate, notes of tobacco, licorice, clove and dried herb vors, it also brings accents of cherry tobacco, orange streaks. Drink now through 2026. Cellar Selection. accent the juicy cherry-berry core. Ripe, firm tan- liqueur and a glassy minerality. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. nins and fresh acidity provide structure. Palm Bay —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $85 International. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $42 abv: 14% Price: $45

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Michele Chiarlo 2011 Tortoniano (Barolo). Parallel 2013 Chardonnay (Russian River Val- 93 Crushed violet, herb, wild berry, leather, 93 ley). Fresh lemon and orange blossom aro- exotic incense, eucalyptus and balsamic aromas mas make for an inviting entry to this impressively Happy Canyon Vineyard 2011 Piocho (Happy carry over to the elegantly structured palate un- fragrant wine. Surprisingly light on the palate, de- 93 Canyon of Santa Barbara). Blackberry and derscored by a mineral vein. It’s bright and fresh, spite the concentration and power, this is a focused, grapeseed offer a fun and punchy aroma to this with young, tightly wound tannins that need time subtle expression of the variety, with layers of ripe blend of 74% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% to unfurl. Drink 2018–2031. Kobrand. Cellar Selec- apple, pear and peach, unimpeded by the supportive Petit Verdot, 5% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. tion. —K.O. oak. —V.B. Black rocks and black-olive elements keep the wine abv: 14% Price: $55 abv: 14.8% Price: $55 serious. The palate shows Asian spice on a plum and dried berry fruit frame, boosted by earth, pipe smoke and cement. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $32

Robert Biale 2013 Royal Punishers Petite Monteviejo 2009 Lindaflor La Violeta Mal- 93 Sirah (Rutherford). Wound tightly, this bur- 93 bec (Uco Valley). Black as night in color then ly, brawny bruiser comes out of its shell slowly to lush, ripe and silky smooth on the nose, this heady reveal soft, perfumy notes of violet and blueberry. Malbec offers aromas of marzipan, balsam, licorice Flavors of dark chocolate and jam sit atop powerful- Hyde de Villaine 2012 Ysabel Pinot Noir (So- and cassis. The palate is intense and tannic, with ly rich, dense pockets of leather and black pepper. 93 noma Mountain). From the 1,400-elevation lusty flavors of blackberry, prune and chocolate. Drink now through 2023. Cellar Selection. —V.B. Van der Kamp Vineyard, this wine conveys roses Finishing flavors of mocha, cocoa and toast are lush abv: 14.9% Price: $42 and black tea, along with a woodsy, truffle-like and long. Drink through 2018. Esprit du Vin. —M.S. character. While powerfully round and soft, it offers abv: 15.5% Price: $111 elegance in abundance, alongside a swatch of fresh- dug earth and a thick finish of forest floor. Drink now through 2022. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $116

Viader 2013 Estate Limited Edition (Napa 93 Valley). A skyscraper-sized blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% , 9% Cabernet Franc and 4% Malbec, this is a generously struc- tured, tannic and bold expression of plum, leather Padis 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- and pencil lead that leans into gamy, black pepper Lombardi 2013 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). 93 ley). Made by Robert Foley, a sought-after notes as well. Velvety smooth, it has years to go in 93 Made in minuscule amounts, with fruit in the Napa Valley, this older-vintage the bottle. Cellar through 2025. Cellar Selection. sourced from the Martinelli family’s Charles Ranch, Cab evokes mocha-chocolate fudge bar in aroma —V.B. this is a fulsome, come-hither white. It’s ripe in ap- and secondary flavors, accompanied by strong, full- abv: 15.1% Price: $100 ple caramel and butterscotch, beautifully unctuous bodied jolts of blackberry jam. Brooding, soft and on the palate in all the right ways. Finding a balance lightly spicy in clove, it finishes with elusive hints beneath the generosity, it ends in crisp lemon and of pencil and cedar. —V.B. lime. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $95 abv: 14.5% Price: $36

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Wines & 2012 Pegos Claros García Figuero 2012 12 Crianza 93 Vinhas Velhas Reserva (Palmela). A serious 92 (). Rock-solid aromas of and dense wine, this is rich and full of dark juicy Domaine des Baumard 2013 Savennières. toasty oak, black fruits and leather are textbook for fruit. It has plenty of structure of course, with its 92 This is a rich, beautifully textured dry wine. Ribera del Duero. This is structurally sound, with rich tannins and wood aging flavors right up front. It is terroir-driven, with the volcanic soil of Saven- deep earthy blackberry, coffee and chocolate flavors The acidity is perfumed, underlining the ripe fruit. nières underlying the tight texture. By contrast, it that announce quality wood work. A long warm Drink this concentrated wine from 2018. Iberia offers hints of honey and flavors of yellow fruits bal- toasty finish means this ends as well as it opens. Wine & Spirits LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. anced with fruity lemon flavors. Drink from 2017. Drink through 2020. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Vintus LLC. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 13% Price: $28

Gary Farrell 2013 Rochioli-Allen Vineyards Elk Cove 2013 Five Mountain Pinot Noir (Che- 92 Oak Puncheon Fermented Chardonnay (Rus- 92 halem Mountains). This is a solid, sharply sian River Valley). With the goal of adding subtle 18401 Cellars 2013 Proprietary Red (Walla defined, taut wine with a refined core of cherry aromatics and structure, this wine was given eight 92 Walla Valley). This is the inaugural release fruit. The through-line is straight and true, finish- months in 50% new French oak puncheons, with from this Oregon-based winery, with the fruit com- ing with a lick of citrus. Give this one a little more the other 50% in neutral. The wine intrigues as ing from Loess and Seven Hills vineyards. A blend time to smooth itself out, and drink with pleasure much as refreshes, with crisp acidity and bright of Cabernet Sauvignon (54%), Merlot (38%) and after 2018. —P.G. sparks of citrus prominent. Medium bodied, it has Petit Verdot, it offers laromas of pencil box, high- abv: 13% Price: $60 a complexity of baked apple and pear lurking in the toned flowers, bittersweet chocolate, herbs and background. —V.B. barrel spices. The flavors show depth and intensity abv: 14.1% Price: $60 as well as exquisite balance and length. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $75

Elk Cove 2013 La Bohème Pinot Noir (Yam- 92 hill-Carlton District). This well-made wine brings briary, brambly notes to its core raspberry fruit. The impression of light herbaceousness con- tinues through a medium-long finish, with a hint of thistle and wet stone. The wine spent 10 months in Kenefick Ranch 2012 Chris’s Cuvée Estate Brecon Estate 2013 Forty Two (Paso Robles). 50% new French oak. —P.G. 92 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga). 92 Inspired by “The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the abv: 13% Price: $60 Dark and brooding, this Cuvée of Cabernet Sauvi- Galaxy,” this blend of 49% Syrah, 46% Mourvèdre gnon with smaller amounts of Petit Verdot and Mal- and 5% Petite Sirah shows smoky blackberry, con- bec opens with spicy acidity before it delves into densed violet and bacon fat on the nose. A sip un- mouthcoating layers of mocha and black licorice. leashes mouthcoating flavors, from rich blackberry Nearly black in color and definitely full bodied, it to tart plum , with lots of smoked plum and a finishes with length and a strong seasoning of cin- touch of asphalt as well. —M.K. namon. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $42 abv: 15.1% Price: $65

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Ponzi 2013 Reserve Chardonnay (Willamette Lawer Family 2014 Betsy’s Vineyard Parallel 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- 92 Valley). Although 2013 may have been a dif- 92 (Knights Valley). This is a pretty wine, re- 92 ley). Dusty, silky tannins wrap themselves ficult vintage, for some winemakers it resulted in splendent in jasmine and honeysuckle, with a light- around dried herb, cedar and rich, dark chocolate in immaculate wines with impeccable precision and bodied, integrated approach to highlighting fresh this powerhouse of a wine, dense and concentrated. focus. In this wine, the medium-bodied fruit runs layers of apricot and peach. The viscosity is just Blackberry and currant peak on the lingering, cigar- from apple to pineapple. Twenty months in 10% right, focused and restrained, while the finish puts and clove-tinged finish. —V.B. new French oak has left an indelible impression of an exclamation point to the freshness of fruit. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $72 buttered nuts and a pleasantly oily mouthfeel. Edi- abv: 14.3% Price: $24 tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $35

S.A. Prüm 2013 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Migration 2013 Charles Heintz Vineyard 92 Kabinett Grosse Lage (Mosel). Penetrat- 92 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Bright and Peachy Canyon 2013 Clevenger ing strikes of honey, peach and chamomile charge balanced, this is a fine wine from an exceptional 92 (Paso Robles Willow Creek District). A vin- through this light-footed yet powerful Kabinett. It’s vineyard site that coaxes a lovely combination of tage leader in this Zin house’s series of site stud- blossomy and perfumed from start to finish, lifted elegance and complexity from the grapes. Opulent ies, this shows rose petals, violets, black tobacco, by a dazzling spray of lemon-lime acidity and lacy on the nose in caramel and quince, it’s layered and crushed anise and black sage on the delicately com- filigreed sweetness. A lovely wine to drink now, but lengthy, even viscous toward the finish, ending with plex nose. Presenting great tension between the will hold nicely, if not improve, until 2020. Palm depth and a touch of vanilla. Drink now through tannins and acidity, the palate offers candied black- Bay International. —A.I. 2021. Cellar Selection. —V.B. berries and red cherries, cut by spearmint and green abv: 8.5% Price: $27 abv: 14.5% Price: $55 tea. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $38

Monteviejo 2010 Lindaflor Malbec (Uco Ponzi 2013 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Sequoia Grove 2013 Chardonnay (Napa Val- 92 Valley). This is a ripe oaky specimen with 92 Compelling aromatics vault it into rarefied 92 ley). A classically rich, generous version of smoky aromas of hickory along with licorice, pencil company, a riot of black cherry, pepper, graphite the variety from the appellation, this wine holds a lead and jammy blackberry. In the mouth, it’s huge and cigar box. The fruit is immaculate and aging for ripeness of baked apple, pear and vanilla toffee at its and spreads out like a blanket. Flavors of baked almost a year in one-third new French oak polishes heart. A depth of oak influence is consistently kept black fruits are fully ripe, while oak-driven toasty, it perfectly. The finish has grip, length and power. in check by a balance of minerality. —V.B. blackened, chocolaty flavors push the finish. Drink Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $28 through 2018. Esprit du Vin. —M.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $40 abv: 15% Price: $50

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Siduri 2013 Sonatera Vineyard Pinot Noir 92 (Sonoma Coast). A funk of truffle and for- esty pine resin is joined by orange peel for an invit- ing and intriguing opening to this wine that is oth- B Side 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- erwise velvety, structured and intense. Juicy on the 91 ley). This wine over-delivers in quality for finish, it shares flavors of black cherry and black tea. the price. It’s made from mostly Cabernet Sauvi- Drink now through 2021. Cellar Selection. —V.B. gnon, with handfuls of Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot Eleven Eleven 2012 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot abv: 14.3% Price: $49 and Cabernet Franc blended in to good effect. The 91 Noir (Russian River Valley). The first Pinot whole combines into layers of chocolate and graham Noir release from this producer, this is a velvety- cracker, dappled in vanilla and jam. Thick tannins smooth, exotic and charming wine, light on the suggest a swirl or two of the glass. The finish is all palate despite a concentration of ripe, rich fruit. tobacco. —V.B. Kirsch, cherry, raspberry and cinnamon combine to abv: 14.5% Price: $28 make the wine invitingly lush and plush. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $65

William Hill Estate 2012 Cabernet Sauvi- 92 gnon (Napa Valley). This impressive wine dances in hearty clove and cinnamon sparked by a floral bouquet of rose. High-toned, structured and elegant, it has subtle power and concentration but Castello di Amorosa 2012 Morisoli-Borges remains fresh in the glass. Drink now through 2020. 91 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Galerie 2012 Latro Cabernet Sauvignon Cellar Selection. —V.B. From decades’ old vines in the heart of the appel- 91 (Knights Valley). Dense, rich red fruit belies abv: 14.8% Price: $45 lation, this wine conveys dusty milk chocolate and an elegant wine that finds balance despite the con- baked plum. It’s 100% , aged almost two centration of vanilla and berry. Soft, approachable years in 60-gallon French oak barrels. Softly lay- and integrated tannin and oak let the whole exist ered, and full bodied, it’s approachable now, linear as one, instead of separate parts. This shows off the in its acidity. —V.B. appellation’s mountain fruit and rocky minerality. abv: 14.5% Price: $195 —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

Archery Summit 2013 Premier Cuvée Pinot 91 Noir (Willamette Valley). An elegant blend from different estate vineyards, this widely avail- able cuvée brings sturdy tannins and red currant fruit, highlighted with pretty baking spices. It would be an ideal match for roast duck with an orange Chateau St. Jean 2012 Cinq Cépages (Sonoma sauce. —P.G. 91 County). The producer’s flagship Bordeaux- Grieve 2013 Grieve Family Vineyard Sauvignon abv: 13% Price: $54 inspired blend combines 84% Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Blanc (Napa Valley). From the Lovall Valley with 6% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec section of the Napa Valley quite near Sonoma, this and 2% Petit Verdot. Sanguine, it has a refined lovely wine is awash in tropical mango, with lilts sense of cedar and pencil shavings around still-tight of pear and vanilla. Creamy, it’s made in a fuller- tannins that lean savory in tea and dark chocolate. bodied style but never gets ridiculous, instead offer- Dried herbs dominate the finish. Cellar through ing balance and elegance, finishing with a squeeze of 2020. Cellar Selection. —V.B. grapefruit. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $80 abv: 14.2% Price: $45

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J. Lohr 2013 Fog’s Reach Pinot Noir (Arroyo Lawer Family 2014 of Syrah (Knights Moniker 2013 Chardonnay (Mendocino Coun- 91 Seco). A fairly complex, rich and layered 91 Valley). A pretty salmon-pink in color, and a 91 ty). A beautiful and lightly spicy nutmeg nose of stewed plum, root beer, mace and allspice lovable quaffer, this wine is dry, crisp and brightly character lights up this full-bodied wine from the is set against an oak-laden, vanilla-based structure refreshing in succulent waves of grapefruit and tan- first sniff to the lingering finish. The texture feels on the nose of this bottling. The palate offers rich gerine, remarkably light in alcohol but not shy in very rich, the pear-tart flavors are generous and the black plum, but with decent tang, as well as earthy flavor. Enjoy it on its own or with a range of foods­— spiciness is intriguing. Hints of tannin and tartness chipped slate and iron elements, before settling into its lightness begets versatility. —V.B. firm up the mouthfeel nicely. —J.G. light licorice spice. —M.K. abv: 12.1% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.93% Price: $35

Sequoia Grove 2012 Syrah (Napa Valley). A 91 sizable percentage of Cabernet Franc (19%) makes it into this wine, as does 1% Viognier. Inky Louis M. Martini 2012 Lot No. 1 Cabernet Sauvi- and plummy, it’s a full-bodied, brawny mix of ripe 91 gnon (Napa Valley). Reduced and highly con- plum, blackberry, leather and black pepper, well Jason-Stephens 2011 Estate Select Syrah centrated, this powerful wine is brooding in black structured and built to age. Drink now through 91 (Santa Clara Valley). Fresh boysenberries peppercorn, leather and a wealth of black color and 2020. Cellar Selection. —V.B. and a blueberry sorbet character mix with notes of black fruit. Chewy on the entry, it softens and in- abv: 14.2% Price: $40 minty tarragon, dill and hot gravel on the nose of tegrates over time, getting better in the glass as it this wine, from an area between Gilroy and Morgan goes, a rich, rewarding mix of blackberry, clove and Hill. Peppercorns are prominent on the relatively cigar. —V.B. light palate, along with tobacco, espresso and boy- abv: 15.1% Price: $145 senberry. —M.K. abv: 15.3% Price: $36

Spring Mountain Vineyard 2012 Cabernet Sau- 91 vignon (Napa Valley). This grippy Cab exhib- MacRostie 2013 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). its the power of the 10% Petit Verdot in the blend, 91 The largest production offering of this variety softened by 6% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. La Crema 2013 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- for this producer, this features fruit sourced from a Cassis and raspberry provide a fruity core around 91 ley). This lush offering opens with appealing who’s who of local growers, including Sangiacomo, lush, tight tannins and a black pepper-seasoned aromas of rose petals and fresh strawberries, then Dutton and Martinelli, in addition to the estate-run finish. Full bodied, it remains elegant in the glass. glides into a smooth-as-silk midpalate. The berry/ Wildcat Mountain Vineyard. The result is satisfy- —V.B. cherry fruit is nicely adorned with toasty barrel fla- ingly impressive in viscous oak, graham cracker and abv: 14.1% Price: $75 vors, and it’s as satiny as new sheets. You’ll find it Meyer lemon. Tangy and flinty on the finish, it’s hard to keep from gulping this by the glassful. Edi- smooth and focused. —V.B. tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.1% Price: $30

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Vite Colte 2011 Paesi Tuoi (Barolo). Engaging 91 aromas of red rose, iris, wild berry, cinnamon Burgess 2012 Estate Vineyards Syrah (Napa Counter Punch 2013 Petite Sirah (Paso Ro- and a balsamic note waft out of the glass while juicy 90 Valley). Full bodied, this estate-made, 90 bles). Black as night in the glass, this wine cherry, white pepper, anise and chopped mint drive 100% varietal wine is sinewy and dense, a combi- shows black cherries, lava rocks and espresso beans the spicy, polished palate. Firm but refined tannins nation of ripe, luscious blackberry and blueberry, on the dense nose. It’s thick and chewy once sipped, provide structure. Drink 2017–2021. Opera Wine akin to a compote, seasoned in lavender and black with zesty acidity that sizzles across the palate, Imports. —K.O. licorice. Weighty, it’ll pair well with wintertime showing blackberry and coffee flavors. It’s all pow- abv: 13.5% Price: $60 meals, finishing with a suggestion of vanilla bean. er, with very little finesse. Sales of the wine benefit —V.B. multiple sclerosis research. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $36 abv: 14.5% Price: $40

Decoy 2013 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). 90 Made in a relatively restrained style, this is Vite Colte 2004 Essenze Riserva (Barolo). Chamisal Vineyards 2013 Estate Grown Pi- a dark, juicy and smoky wine from Dry Creek and 91 Aromas of leafy underbrush, mature berry, 90 not Noir (Edna Valley). Nicely layered aro- Alexander Valley area vineyard sites. Lengthy and chopped herb and mocha lead the nose. The firm, mas of clove, graphite, iron and simmering black smooth, it takes a decidedly medium-bodied route, full-bodied palate offers black cherry, licorice, men- cherries show on the complex nose of this well- with traces of leather pouch on the nose and a soft thol and clove alongside polished, fine-grained tan- priced bottling. More iron and raspberry appear on layering of milk chocolate on the finish. —V.B. nins. Drink 2017–2029. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. the palate, where a balanced acidity pairs well with abv: 13.9% Price: $25 abv: NA Price: $90 the strong mineral character. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2013 Vintage 40 91 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Some years Château de la Ragotiere 2014 Cuvée Amélie ago, Willamette Valley Vineyards purchased the Tu- 90 Sur Lie ( Sèvre et Maine). Named alatin Estate vineyards and winery founded by Bill after the winemaker, Amélie Couillard, this soft, Fuller in 1973. To mark the return of Mr. Fuller to rounded wine is smooth with creamed apple flavors winemaking, the new cuvée celebrates his 40th vin- while also having a proper tangy of acidity. That tage. A tawny gold, it’s scented with honeycomb and tight and tangy edge makes the wine refreshing now Eleven Eleven 2013 Estate Syrah (Oak Knoll pineapple. Potent and focused, it carries those fla- while also allowing it to age for a few more months. 90 District). Inky, rich and dense, this wine has vors into a finish rich with bee pollen and preserved Drink now or from late 2016. Vineyard Brands. an abundance of red and black berry pie going on lemon intensity. —P.G. —R.V. that makes it decadently inviting. Thick on the pal- abv: 12.3% Price: $35 abv: 12% Price: $16 ate, it’s ready to pair with saucy cuts of meat, its background note of smoke the ideal way to bring out charred flavors in a food. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $55

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Left Coast Cellars 2014 Truffle Hill Chardon- 90 nay (Willamette Valley). This 100% Dijon- clone bottling offers a bold mix of peach, banana and pineapple. It’s fruit-driven from top to bottom, with supporting acids to keep it fresh and invigorat- Padis 2011 Merlot (Napa Valley). Brioche Eleven Eleven 2012 Laki’s Vineyard Estate ing. —P.G. 90 and vanilla-cherry are the stars in this full- 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak Knoll District). abv: 13.8% Price: $24 bodied yet savory, herbal wine sourced mostly from While soft and approachable, this wine also offers the Oak Knoll District. Complex in flavor, it spikes a density of black currant and cherry that gives sig- in clove and cinnamon, finishing with a taste of gun- nificant power and juicy exuberance. Sizable tan- powder and tobacco. —V.B. nins risk overtaking the fruit, but never do, with abv: 14.5% Price: $65 the oak imparting a jolt of smokiness on the finish. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $111

Louis M. Martini 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 (Napa Valley). Rich blackberry and choco- Parmeson 2013 Josephine Hill Vineyard late form around chalky tannins and a juicy palate, 90 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Muted with a waft of cigar in the distance. Medium bodied, on the nose, this offers shy notes of anise and fen- José Maria da Fonseca 2013 Periquita Reser- round and soft, the finish is brushed in cherry and nel that arises out of the glass over time, buoyed by 90 va (Península de Setúbal). This is a finely pomegranate. —V.B. a generous proportion of golden apple and honey. integrated, rich wine that shows impeccable balance abv: 14.4% Price: $38 It veers briny around the full-bodied finish. —V.B. between dusty tannins and juicy dark berry tones. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 The wood aging shows through in a smooth texture that gives a sense of richness to the ripe fruit. This is an elegant wine that can be drunk now although it will benefit from some aging. Drink from 2017. Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16

Merryvale 2014 (Napa 90 Valley). While barrel-influenced and full- Travaglini 2010 Gattinara. Enticing aromas bodied, this unctuous wine remains crisp in edgy 90 of pressed rose, iris and perfumed berry José Maria da Fonseca 2010 Alambre acidity, with lean flavors of lemon and grapefruit lead the nose, with a whiff of cake spice on this 90 (Moscatel de Setúbal). This is a wine that amidst a deeper, richer background of oak and cara- straightforward red. The elegant, enjoyable palate reveals the younger side of Moscatel in Setúbal. It mel. —V.B. offers sour red cherry, raspberry, white pepper and shows honey, spice and perfumed fruitiness that abv: 14.5% Price: $28 a hint star anise alongside firm, refined tannins. A contrast with the richness of the texture and its tobacco note signals the close. Palm Bay Interna- fresh peach and apricot flavors. Drink now for im- tional. —K.O. mediate enjoyment. Palm Bay International. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 18% Price: $16

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Trefethen 2014 Dry Riesling (Oak Knoll Dis- Wines & Winemakers 2014 Lua Cheia em 90 trict). Waxy and aromatic in petrol, this 90 Vinhas Velhas Maria Papoila Escolha (Vinho stainless-steel-fermented white offers flavors of Verde). Produced from old vines, this crisp wine is white flowers, green apple and lime around sizzling floral and fresh. Concentrated with white and citrus Peachy Canyon 2013 Westside Zinfandel acidity. From the Main Ranch Vineyard, an estate fruit flavors over tight steeliness, it has a serious 88 (Paso Robles). Quite a solid deal from an ex- property, it finishes high-pitched and lean, com- side of complex textures that will allow it to develop pert Zin house, this wine shows aromas of candied pletely refreshing. —V.B. over the next few months. Drink now for the fresh cherry and pomegranate, with cinnamon, a hint of abv: 12.5% Price: $25 fruit tones, although it will be better from late 2016. tar and a little crushed espresso bean. Dried blue- C & P Wines, LLC. —R.V. berries enliven the palate, along with mineral tones abv: 11.5% Price: $20 and more cinnamon-based baking spice. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

Lake & Vine 2012 Single Vineyard Cabernet 89 Sauvignon (Red Hills Lake County). This Valdubón 2009 Reserva (Ribera del Duero). densely flavored and full-bodied wine has a very 90 Cherry and plum aromas are accented by deep, dark color and aromas that suggest oak bar- Collina San Ponzio 2011 Barolo. This slowly buttery oak, leather and animal notes. Solid in feel rels, nutmeg and . The palate shows ten- 87 reveals aromas of pressed rose, star anise, with firm tannins, this warm-vintage Tempranillo is sion between firm tannins and acidity, and carries ripe berry and a menthol note. On the firm, straight- ripe, loamy and loaded with berry and cassis flavors. ripe blackberries, with spicy accents. Drink now forward palate, hints of licorice and clove add inter- A lightly raisiny finish is friendly and round. Drink through 2020. —J.G. est to dried black cherry. Give the bracing tannins through 2019. Freixenet USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 a few more years to unclench and then drink up abv: 13.5% Price: $24 to capture the remaining fruit. Pacific Rim Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2013 Vintage Lake & Vine 2012 (Lake County). 90 40 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Hon- 89 This gutsy blend of two-thirds Zinfandel oring the 40th vintage for these vines, planted at plus Syrah and Tempranillo has a deep color, fresh Tualatin Estate in 1973, this elegant and subtle spicy oak aromas, vivid fruit flavors and a lip- wine shows pinpoint varietal character. It charms smacking layer of fine tannin. It should be just the immediately with scents of dusty baking spices and thing with a grilled steak or pulled pork. —J.G. Collina San Ponzio 2014 d’Alba. cherry pie. Flavors follow into a graceful and pro- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 86 Fresh and fruity, this simple, easy-drinking portionate finish. —P.G. red doles out black cherry, blackberry, white pep- abv: 13% Price: $45 per and clove. Racy acidity brightens the juicy fruit flavors. Pacific Rim Wines. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $17

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BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Château de la Ragotiere 2014 Les Schistes Sur Château de la Ragotiere 2014 Sélection 91 Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). Schist soil is 89 Vieilles Vignes Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Mirassou 2014 Moscato (California). This is characteristic of the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine re- Maine). The old vines here do give some concentra- 88 a great find in this category. Gentle, floral gion. It gives texture to a wine such as this, with tion. More importantly, they give a great swathe of notes of honey and apple mark nose and palate. The its tight, mineral character and great freshness. This ripe fruit that is so crisp and refreshing. Lemon and light body gives a charming, almost delicate charac- complex, densely structured wine is packed with the lightest texture are lifted by intense acidity and ter to this well-balanced and refreshing sweet wine. very crisp fruit and lively acidity. This is the per- a lively, fresh aftertaste. This wine is ready to drink. Best Buy. —J.G. fect wine for Muscadet’s natural partner, shellfish. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 7.5% Price: $12 Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $14 abv: 12% Price: $15

Francis Ford Coppola 2013 Votre Santé Pinot José Maria da Fonseca 2013 Domini (Douro). 89 Noir (California). The spicy aromas resem- Moselland 2013 Jahrgang Riesling (Mosel). 91 This is a tight and structured wine, showing a ble black pepper and anise. Fruit flavors are ripe and 88 A whiff of crushed chalk lends some com- fine balance between tannin and acidity, with dark, delicious, and the creamy texture seems to melt in plexity to this crisp refreshing Riesling full of fresh brooding fruit that still need time to develop. Give the mouth. This wine offers lots of personality and apple, tangerine and lemon flavors. Off-dry on the this wine until 2018. Palm Bay International. Best very good balance. Best Buy. —J.G. palate, it’s a juicy widely appealing wine for youth- Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 ful consumption. Halby Marketing. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 8.5% Price: $13

Red Rock 2012 Winemaker’s Blend Reserve Heinz Eifel 2014 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). 90 (California). This extroverted and very 88 Exotic, warming spices like turmeric, saf- yummy wine is dark and deep in color. It smells like fron and coriander seem to accent this sweet-savory it’s drenched in blackberry jam and tastes almost as Riesling. The palate is citrusy and bright, calibrat- Outlander 2013 Meritage (Paso Robles). thick. Gobs of boysenberry and blackberry flavors ing sunny tangerines and orange peels against a 88 Lush aromas of black cherry, vanilla, kola carry hints of chocolate and cherry. It’s not too full backdrop of stark lemony acidity. The finish is brisk nut and blackberry fudge pack lots of action into bodied, just full flavored.Best Buy. —J.G. and clean. Winesellers, Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. this bottling. The palate confirms the complexity, abv: 13.6% Price: $14 abv: 7.5% Price: $13 with blueberry and black cherry backed by pipe tobacco, dried marjoram and a pencil lead-driven structure. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS SPIRITS

Mandolin 2014 Chardonnay (Monterey). 85 Canned pears and plumeria show on the Vinum 2014 V Series Chardonnay (Mon- nose of this bargain-priced offering, worthy of a 88 terey). One of the more reliable, big-pro- weeknight dinner or later in the evening. The pal- duction brands in the market right now, this wine ate shows lots of ripe stone fruit, apple syrup and shows fresh white flowers, with just a dollop of va- tangy citrus, the finish delivering a lasting acidity. nilla butter and a touch of wet stone on the nose. Best Buy. —M.K. There is decent verve to the evenly presented and abv: 14.5% Price: $10 light palate, with flavors of cooked apples and sea Borducan Orange Liqueur (Italy; Borducan salt. Best Buy. —M.K. 90 Ltd., Lexington, KY). Deep golden in the abv: 13.5% Price: $13 SPIRITS glass, for a pleasant citrus peel and orange blossom scent. The flavor shows big, bold orange and honey notes. A touch of bitter orange peel on the exit cuts through the sweetness nicely. abv: 35% Price: $36/L

Belle Ambiance 2013 Red Wine Blend (Cali- 87 fornia). This blends almost-sweet fruit fla- vors of strawberry and red cherry with savory and spicy notes, making a nicely complex and multi- Faretti Decadent Biscotti Chocolate (Italy; Marie Brizard Liqueur Pear William (France; dimensional, medium-bodied wine. It’s smooth and 97 Chatham Imports, New York, NY). Dessert- 90 The Other Wine & Spirits, Miami, FL). This fruity, with no harsh tannins. Best Buy. —J.G. like and delicious, this medium-bodied liqueur has viscous, pale straw liqueur mingles honey and pear abv: 13.5% Price: $10 a rich cocoa and marzipan scent, and tastes just like in the fragrance. The sweet but relatively light flavor its namesake biscotti cookies. It warms the palate profile starts with pear, gives over to vanilla mid- with nutty and chocolate flavors, perked up by hints palate, and finishes with a bright flick of ginger. of fennel and orange peel. Recommended for cocktails. Best Buy. abv: 28% Price: $27 abv: 25% Price: $20

Montoya 2011 Cuvée E.M.H. Reserva Garna- 86 cha (Cariñena). Floral blueberry and black- currant aromas are jammy. Following the nose, this Garnacha feels chunky and low in acidity. Jammy Licor 43 (Spain; WJ Deutsch, White Plains, flavors of blueberry and cassis end in a pudgy but 93 NY). Bright yellow in the glass and lightly friendly way. Drink this low-acid offering sooner spiced, this versatile liqueur is made with 43 in- rather than later. DC Flynt MW Selections. Best gredients, hence the name. The flavor profile runs Buy. —M.S. from vanilla to brown sugar and baking spice. It abv: 14% Price: $10 plays particularly well with dark spirits like rum and brandy, without overpowering. abv: 31% Price: $26

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This is a tight, focused, young red wine, with tangy Elk Cove 2013 Five Mountain Pinot Noir (Che- fruit. Tart and tangy, it carries a light savory note raspberry fruit that touches on black cherry. Vivid 92 halem Mountains). For full review see page as well. This has the acidity to improve and age and penetrating, it needs plenty of time to breathe, 7. through 2026. —P.G. and as it does it reveals subtle layers of mocha abv: 13% Price: $60 abv: 13% Price: $85 and caramel. This has the bones to age. Drink now through 2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Elk Cove 2013 La Bohème Pinot Noir (Yamhill- Archery Summit 2013 Premier Cuvée Pinot abv: 13% Price: $48 92 Carlton District). For full review see page 7. 91 Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see abv: 13% Price: $60 page 9. Angela Estate 2013 Abbott Claim Pinot Noir abv: 13% Price: $54 92 (Yamhill-Carlton District). Ken Wright re- Panther Creek 2013 Lazy River Vineyard Pi- cently sold the vineyard to Angela Estate, but con- 92 not Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Despite Argyle 2013 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette tinues to make these wines for the owners. The its low alcohol, this is the most complex and com- 91 Valley). Strawberry fruit sails above a light 2013 is sleek and refined, with pristine clarity. Let pelling of Panther Creek’s 2013 Pinots. Aromatic, layer of milk chocolate, leading into a well-textured it breathe and it warms into nicely rounded fla- with entwined scents of cocoa powder, rose petals wine layered with leafy highlights. The tannins have vors of cherry fruit, along with highlights of orange and earth, it is delicate but beautifully defined with a breakfast-tea component, keeping them dry, rath- peel and pekoe tea. Finishing notes suggest coffee raspberry/cherry fruit, underscored with wet stone. er light and lifted. The overall texture and balance grounds and dark chocolate. —P.G. It is a graceful wine with a decade of life ahead. are spot-on. Give this extra breathing time and it abv: 12.5% Price: $60 Drink now through 2025. Cellar Selection. —P.G. gives you extra depth and flavor. —P.G. abv: 12.4% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Antiquum Farm 2013 Luxuria Pinot Noir (Wil- 92 lamette Valley). Just one barrel was made, Ponzi 2013 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Bethel Heights 2013 Aeolian Pinot Noir (Eola- all 777 clone and aged in 100% new French oak. Ex- 92 For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. 91 Amity Hills). Generous black-cherry fruit tra concentration and darker fruit flavors of black- abv: 13.2% Price: $40 anchors this barrel-aged wine that remains tartly berry and black cherry are the payoff. It’s a wine acidic, with pretty accents of toast and mocha. Fo- resonant with complex streaks of mineral and steel. Sineann 2014 Yates Conwill Vineyard Pinot cused, young and fresh, it should drink optimally —P.G. 92 Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Always a top 2018–2028. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $75 cuvée for Sineann, this refined and detailed effort abv: 12.7% Price: $42 shows distinct mineral notes in both its nose and Archery Summit 2013 Renegade Ridge Estate its finish. Concentrated raspberry and plum fruit is Big Table Farm 2013 Pinot Noir (Willamette 92 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This vineyard was lightly dusted with cocoa powder, and the extended 91 Valley). Lush aromatics conjure up dreams of developed between 10 and 20 years ago. The matur- finish has highlights of baking spices. —P.G. strawberry cream. This is quite pretty, with perfect ing vines deliver a supple yet firm wine, anchored in abv: 14.5% Price: $42 balance among its components of fruit, acid and a core of candy cherry fruit. Aromatic and flavorful tannin, set comfortably in a compact frame. —P.G. highlights of cinnamon, clove and candied orange Walt 2013 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir (Or- abv: 12.1% Price: $42 are also in play, along with a subtle hint of herb. 92 egon). Yummy is the descriptor that comes —P.G. to mind here. A soft entry brings butterscotch and David Hill 2012 Estate BlackJack Pinot Noir abv: 13% Price: $85 butter-pecan highlights, gliding around a deep core 91 (Willamette Valley). BlackJack is sourced of cherry cola. Though forward and well-rounded, from the oldest block in the vineyard, planted in Archery Summit 2013 Whole Cluster Cuvée it’s not simple like soda pop. In fact, it’s quite sat- 1965. In this warm, ripe vintage it shows lovely 92 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Roughly 75% of isfying, with good body and balance, just built for blackberry and black cherry fruit, fully ripened and the fruit was fermented with the stems, using na- immediate enjoyment. —P.G. wreathed in streaks of smoke, ground coffee and tive yeast. The richly perfumed nose of this wine abv: 12.7% Price: $75 dark chocolate. —P.G. mixes floral tones with hints of body powder and a abv: 13.8% Price: $55 touch of cocoa. This is a sensuous wine, with a be- Winderlea 2013 Winderlea Vineyard Pinot guiling palate loaded with plum, cherry, mocha and 92 Noir (Dundee Hills). The old-vine estate La Crema 2013 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). sassafras. —P.G. vineyard delivers a well-balanced, elegant wine that 91 For full review see page 10. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $85 shows mineral and steel along with tart berry fruit. abv: 13.1% Price: $30 Despite a much lighter vintage than 2012, there is Bethel Heights 2013 Casteel Pinot Noir (Wil- enough density and depth to reward some addition- Owen Roe 2014 Sharecropper’s Pinot Noir 92 lamette Valley). A barrel by barrel selection al cellar time. —P.G. 91 (Willamette Valley). This deservedly popu- results in this reserve-level cuvée. Round, forward, abv: 13.1% Price: $60 lar value bottle gets the star Pinot treatment—nine spicy and toasty, it’s a solid, almost chunky style months in French oak, 27% new. It’s spicy and full- with bold black-cherry fruit. Barrel aging brings Antiquum Farm 2013 Passiflora Pinot Noir flavored, with resonant blue plum fruit, buttery up highlights of coffee and toast. Think duck con- 91 (Willamette Valley). This bottling is a two- toast and a tannic frame. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. fit with this bottle, and enjoy it over the next few block selection from the highest spots in the vine- abv: 14.1% Price: $21 years. —P.G. yard. Don’t be fooled by the lightness of the flavors, abv: 12.7% Price: $60 but do pay attention to the refined, elegant struc- Panther Creek 2013 Schindler Vineyard Pinot ture. Raspberry and cherry flavors, abundant acid- 91 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Big, bold, dark and Big Table Farm 2013 Wirtz Vineyard Pinot ity and a mineral underpinning all contribute, along chewy, this builds upon substantial black-cherry 92 Noir (Willamette Valley). This elegant wine with almost a year in 50% new French oak. —P.G. fruit and supporting acids. Still knitting together, is spicy and aromatic, with pretty floral highlights. abv: 13.3% Price: $55 it shows highlights of cedar and tobacco, along with Orange peel, rosewater, cherry soda and clean, re- thick tannins. Give this a couple more years of bot- freshing acidity are all in play. The lingering finish Archery Summit 2013 Archer’s Edge Estate tle age, and drink after 2018. —P.G. is a bonus. —P.G. 91 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). These relatively abv: 13.1% Price: $50 abv: 11.5% Price: $48 young vines deliver a juicy wine with bright berry

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Ponzi 2014 Tavola Pinot Noir (Willamette proportional bed of tart acid and pretty oak, 40% Roco 2013 Wits’ End Vineyard Pinot Noir 91 Valley). Who puts their lowest-priced Pinot new. —P.G. 90 (Chehalem Mountains). The regular bot- Noir in 20% new French oak, and includes fruit abv: 13.4% Price: $37 tling from the estate vineyard takes the spotlight in from their best vineyards in the blend? Ponzi does, 2013, with a lightness and delicacy that in no way and the result is a terrific vintage for Tavola. Bright, Argyle 2013 Nuthouse Lone Star Vineyard means it is simple or insubstantial. There’s much to compact, aromatic and lushly fruited with plum and 90 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Firm and fo- admire, from the silky cherry fruit to the dusty trac- black cherry, this is a stunning value. Cola, caramel cused, this lightly spiced effort supports its tart es of sandalwood, saffron and butter brickle. —P.G. and cinnamon spice add further details and high- cherry fruit with ample acidity. Hints of toasted co- abv: 14% Price: $60 lights. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. conut build in the finish. A few more years of bottle abv: 13.7% Price: $25 age should bring further integration. —P.G. Sineann 2014 Russell-Grooters Vineyard abv: 13.5% Price: $50 90 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Wild berries, Sineann 2014 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Wonder- from elderberry to salmonberry to mountain straw- 91 fully aromatic and packed with flavor, this David Hill 2012 Winemakers Cuvée Pinot berries, are in play in this wine. The underpinning outstanding value opens lightly spicy with zingy 90 Noir (Willamette Valley). At David Hill, the scents suggest earth and wet cement, while in the raspberry fruit. It’s like a tart jam, with citrus-peel Winemakers Cuvée is a cut above the reserve. It’s finish a strong flavor of breakfast tea lingers. This is highlights peeking through in the sappy finish.Edi - a muscular blend of scents and flavors of lavender, an interesting addition to the Sineann lineup. —P.G. tors’ Choice. —P.G. cherry and chocolate wrapped into a firm, focused abv: 13.9% Price: $36 abv: 13.8% Price: $30 finish. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $50 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2013 Vintage Winderlea 2013 Crawford Beck Vineyard Pinot 90 40 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full 91 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Tart, firm and (for Hayward by Folin Cellars 2013 Utopia Vine- review see page 13. this lighter vintage) showing good concentration, 90 yard Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Winemaker abv: 13% Price: $45 this well-constructed effort is built around tangy Rob Folin scores again, crafting a silky and sleek Pi- cherry/berry fruit. With above-average length and not from the Ribbon Ridge AVA. Fig, plum and choc- Winderlea 2013 Maresh Vineyard Pinot Noir depth, and naturally high acidity, this can continue olate flavors are wrapped into a smooth and supple 90 (Dundee Hills). Old-vine fruit delivers an to develop further refinement through 2026.Edi - wine that is already heading towards maturity. It’s elegant Pinot that combines low alcohol with grace- tors’ Choice. —P.G. delicious now, so there is no reason to wait on this ful details of pretty spices and red fruits. Young, abv: 12.8% Price: $48 one. —P.G. tangy cherry flavors are precisely defined, with a abv: 14.1% Price: $45 delicate tension. This might very well improve dra- Winderlea 2013 Juliard Vineyard Pinot Noir matically with a decade or more of cellaring. Drink 91 (Dundee Hills). A limited, popular entry in King Estate 2012 Backbone Pinot Noir (Or- 2020–2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Winderlea’s extensive single-vineyard lineup, this 90 egon). This appealing, youthful wine wraps abv: 12.5% Price: $48 suggests cherry kirsch with streaks of coffee and bright raspberry fruit in a fragrant blanket of toasty tobacco. The pretty fruit leads into darker notes of oak. It’s lively, detailed and impeccably fresh, with Winderlea 2013 Meredith Mitchell Vineyard tar and espresso. Still young and primary, the Ju- the balance to age gracefully through at least 2021. 90 Pinot Noir (McMinnville). Planted in 1988, liard may be among the vintage’s most long-lasting —P.G. this vineyard ’s fruit captures the unique minerality wines. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $57 found in this AVA. It leaves an impression of suck- abv: 13.1% Price: $48 ing on rock—not a bad thing in a wine. The black- Omero 2012 Bass Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir cherry fruit grips the palate with real power and Winderlea 2013 Weber Vineyard Pinot Noir 90 (McMinnville). Fermented with roughly some density, with potent herbal highlights as well. 91 (Dundee Hills). A bit chewy, this brings old- one-third whole clusters, this wine brings a juicy Drink this now through the mid-2020s. —P.G. vine texture into play, with herbal highlights around mix of blackberry and black-cherry fruit front and abv: 13% Price: $48 fruit flavors of mountain berry and pie cherry. The center, with the AVA’s wet-stone minerality under- snap and tang of tart, just-ripe fruit is much in evi- neath. This young wine seems built for the wine cel- Winderlea 2013 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir dence. Young and sassy, this should continue to im- lar. If you plan to drink it sooner, give it an hour in 90 (Yamhill-Carlton District). This is definitely prove with further bottle age. —P.G. the . Drink 2020–2030. Cellar Selection. a light vintage for this vineyard-designate. It deftly abv: 13% Price: $48 —P.G. mixes cranberry and raspberry fruit with hints of abv: 13.2% Price: $48 wet stone. Proportionate, drying tannins line the Winderlea 2013 Winderlea Legacy Pinot Noir finish. —P.G. 91 (Dundee Hills). The Legacy estate reserve is a Panther Creek 2013 Carter Vineyard Pi- abv: 13.5% Price: $60 limited selection from the original mid-1970s vines. 90 not Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This spent 18 It remains stubbornly closed, even after hours of months in 50% new French oak, which underscores Bethel Heights 2013 Estate Pinot Noir (Eo- breathing time. Grudgingly, pomegranate and cran- its pretty berry/cherry fruit with a vein of dark 89 la-Amity Hills). A slight whiff of leathery berry fruit flavors peek through a high-acid base chocolate. Dr Pepper and spicy herbs decorate a funk in the nose carries into the palate, but it does with mineral undertones. The balance is there for solid midpalate that flows into a lengthy finish with not override the rich cherry fruit. Extra details of further aging. —P.G. confectionary highlights. —P.G. mineral and earth bring further interest, and more abv: 12.5% Price: $75 abv: 13.2% Price: $65 bottle age may serve to lengthen the finish. —P.G. abv: 12.6% Price: $32 Antiquum Farm 2013 Juel Pinot Noir (Wil- Roco 2013 Roserock Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eo- 90 lamette Valley). One of the most beautiful 90 la-Amity Hills). A solid blend of aromatic Big Table Farm 2013 Pinot Noir (Yamhill- package designs in the state introduces a fresh and floral notes and spicy fruit, this opens with scents 89 Carlton District). This fruit-forward, elegant toasty wine that translates this cool, wet vintage of rose petals and moves into a midpalate featuring wine offers gentle flavors of strawberry and cherry, into a most delicate and enjoyable bottle of Pinot. red plum. There are hints of dried pine needles and with a lightly candied aspect. It’s like a cherry lol- Light cranberry and cherry fruit is set in a gently overall a palate-pleasing texture. —P.G. lipop, with a lingering, slightly earthy finish. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $50 abv: 11.8% Price: $48

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David Hill 2012 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir Winderlea 2013 Imprint Pinot Noir (Dundee Omero 2012 Coats and Whitney Vineyard Pi- 89 (Willamette Valley). Bright fruit flavors of 89 Hills). Imprint joins the Dundee Hills Vine- 88 not Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Brambly mountain berries are bolstered with steely acidity. yards cuvée as Winderlea’s entry-level blends. This berry flavors carry a streak of cola throughout this This firm, lightly herbal wine sneaks in a hint of clo- is quite delicious, a refined mix of plum and berry. wine, 80% of which was whole-cluster fermented. ver as well. It may improve with another couple of Delicate scents of rosewater and cherries contribute The pleasant fruit is somewhat offset with chalky years of bottle age. —P.G. to the overall sense of elegance. —P.G. acids and drying tannins. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $38 abv: 14.1% Price: $48

Lumos 2013 Temperance Hill Vineyard Pinot Battle Creek 2013 Unconditional Pinot Noir Panther Creek 2013 Kalita Vineyard Pi- 89 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This is certified 88 (Oregon). The aromas of wild strawberries, 88 not Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Floral organic, from one of Oregon’s leading vineyards. spice and sarsaparilla are immediate in their appeal. scents float above a chunky, cherry-fruited, single- Somewhat muted in this cool, wet vintage, it’s The palate is light bodied and elegant, with mouth- vineyard wine. It’s quite refreshing, with appealing nonetheless a sturdy effort with a potent herbal watering acids and flavors that linger. This wine is texture and underlying minerality that compensates component. The stiff red fruits conjure up a tart delicate but brings a lot of enjoyment. —S.S. for the overall impression of palate lightness. Drink cranberry and cherry mix. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 now through 2018, while the freshness remains at abv: 13.2% Price: $45 its peak. —P.G. Big Table Farm 2013 Cattrall Brothers Vine- abv: 13% Price: $50 Omero 2012 Omero Vineyard Pinot Noir (Rib- 88 yard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This wine 89 bon Ridge). Nicely textural, this propels offers clean, slightly dilute raspberry fruit, along Panther Creek 2013 Reserve Pinot Noir (Wil- its black-cherry fruit into a tasty finish. The wine with lovely aromatics and a persistent, engaging 88 lamette Valley). This wine is a blend of De spent 16 months in French oak, yielding grace notes finish. In spite of the lightness, it holds your inter- Ponte, Schindler and Kalita fruit, smooth and sup- of coffee grounds, cola and a dash of mocha. —P.G. est. —P.G. ple, though falling a bit flat in terms of mouthfeel. abv: 14% Price: $48 abv: 11.2% Price: $48 Leafy herbal components come up soonest, followed with sweet barrel notes, from 15 months in half new Panther Creek 2013 De Ponte Vineyard Pinot City Winery of New York 2012 Hyland Vine- French oak. —P.G. 89 Noir (Dundee Hills). This single-vineyard 88 yard Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). abv: 13.9% Price: $50 cuvée brings bold red fruit backed with steely min- Spicy berry, chocolate and bitter greens are in play, erality. After 14 months in 50% new French oak, the though slightly muted. The components smooth out Roco 2013 Gravel Road Pinot Noir (Willa- barrel flavors remain unintrusive, allowing pretty and surf into a broad, easygoing finish. Drink up. 88 mette Valley). Tight and tart, this entry- aromas of roses, raspberries, cherries and choco- —P.G. level bottling marries sharp fruit flavors of rasp- late to emerge. It’s drinking well already, and should abv: 13.5% Price: $38 berry and cherry to a high-acid foundation. It’s continue to shine through 2026. —P.G. fruit-forward, perfect to gulp down with a favorite abv: 13.3% Price: $45 Coeur de Terre 2013 Héritage Reserve Pinot sandwich or football food. —P.G. 88 Noir (McMinnville). Full-bodied flavors of abv: 14% Price: $30 Roco 2013 Marsh Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir cherry accented with orange peel are at the center of 89 (Yamhill-Carlton District). Aromatically this wine. There are hints of earth and leather, and Roco 2013 The Stalker Pinot Noir (Willa- spicy, with a blast of citrus, this follows through tight, dry tannins that resolve into residual flavors 88 mette Valley). This new cuvée takes its with tart cranberry fruit. It’s accented with pine of mineral and metal. —P.G. name from the fermentation practice of mixing needles and more of that tangy citrusy acidity. abv: 13.5% Price: $36 whole berries with grape-cluster stalks—just stalks, —P.G. not whole clusters. Herbs and pine needle flavors abv: 14% Price: $50 Day 2014 Cancilla Vineyard Pinot Noir (Wil- dominate brambly berry fruit. It’s quite young and 88 lamette Valley). Pretty scents and flavors raw, and will benefit from further bottle age. —P.G. Roco 2013 Private Stash #11 Pinot Noir (Che- of bright cherry fruit come up quickly, with enough abv: 14% Price: $50 89 halem Mountains). This bottling is sourced concentration to batten down a medium-long fin- from the Wit’ End estate vineyard. The palate ish. A light hint of sweat or animal comes up also. Trinity Vineyards 2013 Pinot Noir (Willa- boasts broad cherry flavors, showing medium con- —P.G. 88 mette Valley). About 30% was aged in new centration and definiton. It’s clean, clear and one- abv: 13% Price: $45 French oak, the rest in neutral wood. A bit closed, dimensional. —P.G. it offers tight, tart rhubarb and cherry fruit, with a abv: 14% Price: $75 Lumos 2013 Five Blocks Wren and Temper- fading wash of milk chocolate. It’s a lighter style in 88 ance Hill Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). a lighter vintage, but nicely balanced and drinking Sineann 2014 Zenith Vineyard Pinot Noir This Pinot does not shy away from some sharp, well. —P.G. 89 (Eola-Amity Hills). Slightly muted aromati- slightly bitter herbal flavors, but keeps them in bal- abv: 14% Price: $35 cally and on the palate, this sports clean and fresh ance against a core of tart cranberry fruit. It’s well cherry fruit, with a pleasing suggestion of mineral- made and solid, with medium-long persistence. Winderlea 2013 Dundee Hills Vineyards Pi- ity. The midpalate feels a bit hollow. —P.G. —P.G. 88 not Noir (Dundee Hills). This cuvée reflects abv: 13.9% Price: $36 abv: 13.2% Price: $25 the lean vintage with modest alcohol and slightly dilute fruit flavors. Pretty aromatics suggest rose- Swick 2014 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Monte Ferro 2013 Bradley Vineyard Pinot water and sandalwood, and the wine fades grace- 89 Raspberry flavors are front and center in 88 Noir (Elkton Oregon). Sourced from old-vine fully with plum and cherry fruit. —P.G. this young, light wine. It keeps the tart acids in pro- Wädenswil clones, this effort carries the new Elkton abv: 12.8% Price: $38 portion, and the palate is focused and well defined. AVA designation. Pretty raspberry and strawberry The finish turns hard and tannic, but further bottle fruit is set in lightly toasty tannins. This is a lovely Coeur de Terre 2013 Oregon Pinot Noir (Wil- age should soften it up a bit. —P.G. everyday Pinot Noir with some density. —P.G. 87 lamette Valley). Scents softly suggest rose abv: 11.9% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 petals and milk chocolate, leading into a wine that seems to hit a hard stop midpalate. A clear flavor of

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 cold steel resonates against a counterpoint of tart the finish is short, showing mostly acid and herbal Oak Knoll 2012 Dion Vineyard Pinot Noir (Wil- berry fruit. —P.G. components. —P.G. 84 lamette Valley). This wine, aged in stainless abv: 13.4% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 steel barrels, offers muted berry fruit, somewhat masked by aromas of rubber tire and plastic. The Cummins Road 2012 Pinot Noir (Yamhill- Silvan Ridge 2013 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- finish is short and slightly bitter. —P.G. 87 Carlton District). A hint of sweat in the nose 87 ley). Anchored in fig, plum and berry fruit, abv: 13.6% Price: $26 blows away to reveal a solid core of cherry fruit, this is a substantial effort for both the vintage and along with broad flavors of stem, coffee and earth. the price. It will show best with hearty, cold-weath- Del Rio 2013 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Rogue This wine is substantial, though that slightly funky er dishes. Hints of cinnamon and chocolate extend 83 Valley). Redolent of mushrooms and forest- character lingers into the finish. —P.G. the finish. —P.G. floor aromas, this barely hints at fruit, and what is abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 there could be any thin, generic red wine. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $28 Day 2014 Johan Vineyards Pinot Noir (Willa- Silvan Ridge 2013 Falcon Glen Vineyard Pi- 87 mette Valley). The grapes were farmed bio- 87 not Noir (Willamette Valley). This single- dynamically, fermented with wild yeasts, and just vineyard selection brings black cherry and graham SYRAH two barrels were aged in new oak. The stiff berry cracker flavors, with a background of stem and herb. fruit is cloaked in details of stem and earth, tart ac- Somewhat muted, it could benefit holding to 2017– Folin Cellars 2012 Estate Syrah (Rogue Val- ids and a whiff of compost. —P.G. 2018 in bottle. —P.G. 89 ley). The color of oxblood, this meaty, tan- abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $36 nic wine pours espresso, black licorice and compos- ted earth around tart blackberry fruit. It’s aromatic, Larkspur 2013 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Perfumed Sweet Cheeks 2013 Pinot Noir (Willamette spicy and nicely balanced. —P.G. 87 aromas of cherry, forest floor and cinnamon 87 Valley). Fresh, forward and fruity, this abv: 13.9% Price: $32 bring appeal to this light-colored wine. It’s delicate brings light strawberry fruit and streaks of root and airy in style, with cranberry flavors on the fin- beer. It’s tasty and quaffable, though done in a light- Obsidian 2011 Syrah (Oregon). Immensely ish. —S.S. er style. —P.G. 86 toasty aromas overcome the light fruit from abv: 12.5% Price: $17 abv: 12.7% Price: $25 the get-go. Thin flavors of raspberry and black- cherry candy carry it a while, but the oaky finish Maison L’Envoyé 2013 The Attaché Pinot Winderlea 2013 Murto Vineyard Pinot Noir seems way out of proportion to the fruit. —P.G. 87 Noir (Willamette Valley). This wine shows 87 (Dundee Hills). Sharp acidity underscores abv: 13% Price: $28 smooth red fruit that is light and generic, with mod- light, quite tart cranberry fruit. This has herbal est weight and an earthy flavor. The wine spent a bit notes in abundance, and an earthy note to the tan- Del Rio 2012 Estate Grown Syrah (Rogue Val- of time in 25% new oak, though it doesn’t show up nins. But it all comes together with a clean, polished 82 ley). Medicinal, pungent pine-needle scents in the flavors. —P.G. finish. —P.G. continue into the main palate. This shows barely abv: 13% Price: $40 abv: 12.5% Price: $48 any trace of varietal character. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $35 Maison L’Envoyé 2013 Two Messengers Pinot Day 2014 Crowley Station Vineyards Pinot 87 Noir (Willamette Valley). Soft and ultra- 86 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). There’s a hint of a Sweet Cheeks 2012 Barrel Select Syrah smooth, this is crafted in a drink-now style that sweaty, earthy undertone in the nose, and this wine 82 (Southern Oregon). This is a thin, watery holds considerable appeal. Lightly spiced purple shows a fair amount of stem and earth flavors. Sour wine with flavors of stem rather than fruit. —P.G. fruits are in place, and a hint of a vegetal note is cherry fruit adds a lighter layer, with notes of ce- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 almost invisible. If there is a drawback, it is that the ment and bark. It spent time in 11% new oak. —P.G. wine has been smoothed out to the point of being abv: 13% Price: $45 almost generic. —P.G. TEMPRANILLO abv: 13% Price: $30 Omero 2013 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). 86 The unusually low finished alcohol suggests Folin Cellars 2012 Estate Tempranillo Omero 2013 Ribbon Ridge Pinot Noir (Willa- grapes picked a bit early. Scents of violets and light 90 (Rogue Valley). In this ripe vintage Folin 87 mette Valley). This verges on dilute flavors flavors of purple plums give way to an herbal mid- has produced a full-throttle Tempranillo: tannic, with alcohol not quite reaching 12%. Light scents palate, with streaks of graphite and bitter chocolate. chewy and firm. Blue plum and black cherry anchor of plum and sassafras continue with accents of lime The tannins are stiff and assertive. —P.G. the palate, with notes of tobacco, toast and compos- and mineral. Try this with light fare that won’t abv: 12.1% Price: $28 ted earth. —P.G. overwhelm the flavors. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $32 abv: 11.8% Price: $38 Mahonia 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- 85 ley). This soft, approachable Pinot is light Obsidian 2012 Tempranillo (Oregon). Panther Creek 2013 Fir Crest Vineyard Pinot and spicy, with an earthy character. That sense of 90 Smooth and appealing, with a smoky edge 87 Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). This seems herb and earth dominates light red fruits. Try this to the purple plum and berry fruits, this is a fla- slightly underripe, with tart fruit that has as much chilled with cold cuts or poultry. —P.G. vorful, forward and easy-drinking rendition of what apple as berry character. Light hints of cola and abv: 13.9% Price: $25 may become Southern Oregon’s signature grape. earth fade into a lemony finish. —P.G. The tannins are silky and the length impressive. abv: 13.1% Price: $45 Henry Estate 2014 Pinot Noir (Umpqua Val- —P.G. 84 ley). Somewhat disjointed, this watery ef- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Panther Creek 2013 Winemaker’s Cuvée Pi- fort hints at berry flavors, with a bit of road tar and 87 not Noir (Willamette Valley). Taut, young cola. —P.G. Silvan Ridge 2013 Tempranillo (Rogue Val- and laced with accents of bitter greens, the fruit is abv: 13.5% Price: $20 88 ley). There is no lack of dark, smoky flavors peppery and sharp, with plenty of backing acidity. in this 100% varietal bottling. Leather, cola, cassis, Tannins are proportionate and well managed, while tar, burnt rubber and smoke all whirl about, with

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an underlying impression of dried leaves. The listed Obsidian 2011 Molten Red (Or- in sight. The finish turns bitter, with dry tannins. flavors may not stir you with longing when named 85 egon). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, —P.G. in this way, but taken all together and accompanied Syrah and Merlot comes across as simple and ge- abv: 13.6% Price: $28 by a bowl of beef stew, they will satisfy. —P.G. neric. None of the three components stands out, abv: 14.8% Price: $26 and the blend is diffuse and slightly sour. —P.G. Del Rio 2012 Estate Grown Cabernet Franc abv: 13% Price: $38 82 (Rogue Valley). This wine has very intense Upper Five 2013 Tempranillo (Rogue Valley). vegetal, stemmy aromas and flavors. It was aged en- 88 Still tightly wound, this pure varietal wine tirely in stainless steel. —P.G. spent 15 months in one-third new oak. Waxy plum OTHER RED WINES abv: 13% Price: $32 fruit is supported with plenty of acidity and a hint of leather. The wine is young and fresh, with some 18401 Cellars 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon years of development ahead. —P.G. 92 (Walla Walla Valley). This wine is all varietal CHARDONNAY abv: 13.5% Price: $28 coming from the esteemed Seven Hills Vineyard. Aromas of moist earth, bittersweet chocolate, cher- The Eyrie Vineyards 2014 Estate Chardonnay Sweet Cheeks 2012 Barrel Select Tempranillo ry and spice lead to beautifully balanced pit-fruit 96 (Dundee Hills). Even if winemaker Jason 87 (Umpqua Valley). Aged two years in French flavors that show intensity and suppleness, with a Lett tripled the price of this wine, it would still be a and American oak, this is a dark and meaty wine, finish that won’t quit. —S.S. standout among its peers. This opens with intense with black fruits and a hint of blood. There’s a bit abv: 14.5% Price: $75 aromatics of pineapple fruit, bracing acidity, and of a hole in the midpalate, but streaks of cola and compelling length. On the second and third day af- licorice revive the finish. —P.G. Sineann 2014 Old Vine Zinfandel (Columbia ter opening it remained quite fresh and expressive, abv: 13.8% Price: $25 92 Valley). The original vines date back almost with further details of fruit and mineral beginning a century, perched above the Columbia River on the to emerge. Drink now through 2035. Cellar Selec- Oregon side. This is ultraripe, with brambly fruit tion. —P.G. RED BLENDS running from strawberry preserves right on through abv: 12.5% Price: $27 cherry pie. As the alcohol would suggest, it’s full 18401 Cellars 2013 Proprietary Red (Walla bodied and loaded with jammy fruit. —P.G. Fairsing 2013 Chardonnay (Yamhill-Carlton 92 Walla Valley). For full review see page 7. Edi- abv: 15.2% Price: $39 95 District). For full review see page 3. Editors’ tors’ Choice. Choice. abv: 14.7% Price: $75 Folin Cellars 2013 Estate (Rogue abv: 14.2% Price: $42 89 Valley). This is 100% varietal, and sports Day 2013 Hock & Deuce Mae’s Vineyard Red interesting aromas of Provençal herbs. Peppery Ponzi 2013 Avellana Chardonnay (Willa- 89 (Applegate Valley). Composed of 80% Syr- cranberry fruit is spicy and tart, fading through the 95 mette Valley). For full review see page 3. ah and 20% Viognier, this is rather light in color midpalate into a lean, but lingering finish. —P.G. Editors’ Choice. for Syrah, but flavors are full and penetrating. It’s abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 13.2% Price: $60 intensely aromatic, with a mix of smoke, sage and briary flavors. —P.G. Ledger David 2013 Malbec (Rogue Valley). The Eyrie Vineyards 2013 Original Vines Re- abv: 13.5% Price: $34 87 This estate-grown effort is almost jet black, 95 serve Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). The oldest and scented with tar, smoke and black fruits. It’s Chardonnay vines in the Willamette Valley, planted Folin Cellars 2012 Misceo Red (Rogue Val- dense beyond dense, and completely shut down. in 1965, create a spicy, textural, refined wine with 88 ley). Misceo is a GSM blend, vinified in a Even after aeration, decanting, and hours of breath- tremendous length and detail. All the wine was aged mix of new, once-filled and neutral barrels. The ing time, it remained stubbornly closed. Brief hints in neutral wood, which shines a light on the beau- woody flavors and aromas dominate, with hints of of tobacco and earth, cassis and coffee suggest that tiful fruit, with green apple, almonds, and hints of sandalwood, cocoa and dust around tart blue fruits. with more bottle age, this one could really blossom. butter and vanilla. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. —P.G. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.6% Price: $30 Ponzi 2013 Aurora Vineyard Chardonnay Folin Cellars 2013 Passive Aggressive Red Folin Cellars 2012 Petite Sirah (Rogue Val- 94 (Willamette Valley). One of a pair of single- 88 Wine (Rogue Valley). An unusual blend of 86 ley). This has a lively, albeit unconvention- vineyard, reserve-level Chardonnays, this seamless- Syrah, Tempranillo, Petite Sirah and Mourvèdre, al entry, with aromatics conjuring up gingersnap ly pulls together yellow apple, lemon panna cotta, this tasty wine keeps its focus, offering up a palate- cookies. Coffee, blackberry and a potent whiff of white pepper and a suggestion of wet rock. Located pleasing mix of plum and blueberry. There’s a dash barnyard take over, the earthy flavors muting the in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, Aurora fruit is of pepper and pleasantly earthy tannins. All in all, fruit. —P.G. fermented with wild yeast all the way through ma- this is a fine, out-of-the-ordinary and burger abv: 13.5% Price: $35 lolactic, and aged in one-third new and two-thirds wine. —P.G. neutral French oak. The wild yeast adds detail and abv: 13.9% Price: $18 Del Rio 2013 Estate Grown Cabernet Sau- texture, and the wine makes a soft, buttery, graceful, 83 vignon (Rogue Valley). Tannic and earthy, prolonged exit. —P.G. Day 2013 Running Bare Mae’s Vineyard Red this is dominated by the scents and flavors of dried abv: 13.3% Price: $60 85 (Applegate Valley). Half Cabernet Franc mushrooms. There are hints of fruit leather, and not and 25% each and Malbec, this rough-and- much else. —P.G. Domaine Serene 2012 Récolte Grand Cru tumble red is tannic and earthy. That tannic stiff- abv: 13.9% Price: $28 93 Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). This is the ness might subside with further bottle age, but this winery’s ultra-reserve-level Chardonnay, labeled wine may be best opened soon and served with Del Rio 2013 Estate Grown Merlot (Rogue “Grand Cru” just to make the point. In this vin- spicy, hearty food. —P.G. 83 Valley). This pure varietal seems under- tage of exceptionally ripe fruit, its superrich style abv: 13% Price: $42 ripe, with scents of mushrooms and tar, and no fruit explodes from the glass, with a cavalcade of apple pie, buttered nuts and popcorn flavors. It’s big, bold

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 and massively concentrated. This is best enjoyed trating punch of popcorn and nut oil carries it along citrus. The flavors continue through a long, clean through 2019. —P.G. nicely. —P.G. finish. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $125 abv: 12.9% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $48

Bethel Heights 2013 Casteel Chardonnay Mahonia 2013 Chardonnay (Willamette The Eyrie Vineyards 2014 (Dundee 92 (Eola-Amity Hills). A reserve-level, bar- 88 Valley). The fruit is the star here, ripe and 92 Hills). Stylish and detailed, this exemplary rel-fermented cuvée, this has a fresh and creamy round. Flavors are a nice mix of orange, apple and effort showcases a subtle and elegant approach to mouthfeel. It blends crisp tree fruits with bracing pear, with a light dusting of baking spices. This is the grape. Rather than fleshy fruit flavors, it offers minerality, and finishes lightly with a pat of butter. drinking at its freshest peak. —P.G. focused notes of pear skin, citrus rind and an over- —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 riding minerality. It’s drinking quite nicely already, abv: 13% Price: $60 and seems built to continue to evolve through 2020. Panther Creek 2013 French Creek Vineyard Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Ebony 2013 The Hive Chardonnay (Willa- 88 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Sourced abv: 12.5% Price: $21 92 mette Valley). This is the personal project from 35-year-old Wente clone vines, this offers of Archery Summit winemaker Chris Mazepink. It’s bright apple with hints of peach. It’s medium bod- Trinity Vineyards 2014 Pinot Gris (Willamette named for the bees that buzz around the vines. Rich ied and streaked with flavors of caramel and but- 91 Valley). Massively fruity, this is an apple/ gold in hue, it marries the flavors of ripe apples to terfinger candy. —P.G. pear bonanza, fleshy and almost lasciviously deli- bee pollen and lemon curd. The flavors fold into a abv: 13.5% Price: $45 cious. The huge fruit flavors convey an impression well-developed finish, bringing up highlights of cit- of sweetness, though this is not identified as off rus peel. —P.G. Omero 2013 Chardonnay (Willamette Val- dry. It has tremendous density and length. Editors’ abv: 13.5% Price: $30 87 ley). Bright gold in color, this has nutty, Choice. —P.G. buttery aromatics that lead to a low-alcohol palate abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Ponzi 2013 Reserve Chardonnay (Willamette built upon a sturdy base of crisp apples. Skin flavors 92 Valley). For full review see page 8. Editors’ add complexity and weight to what might otherwise Antiquum Farm 2014 Aurosa Pinot Gris (Wil- Choice. feel a bit too thin. —P.G. 90 lamette Valley). This falls between a rosé abv: 13.4% Price: $35 abv: 12% Price: $28 and an in its appearance, a pale salm- on/copper shade that results from 36 hours of skin King Estate 2014 Chardonnay (Oregon). Suc- Oak Knoll 2014 Unoaked Chardonnay (Wil- contact before . Scents of hibiscus tea and 91 culent, juicy fruit flavors combine lemon drop 86 lamette Valley). Light green-apple fruit and rosewater put a delicate top note ahead of rich, ripe, and butterscotch hard candy, buttressed with vivid gentle highlights of cinnamon are in place, though round and spicy citrus fruit. A strong impression of acidity. This irresistible wine is drinking beautifully this wine feels a little flat on the palate. A quick fin- cinnamon marks the finish. —P.G. already. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ish brings a hint of plastic. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $14 Big Table Farm 2014 Wirtz Vineyard Pinot Willamette Valley Vineyards 2013 Vintage 40 90 Gris (Willamette Valley). A striking shade 91 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). For full re- PINOT GRIS of amber/orange, this soft and fruity wine is open view see page 11. and loose knit, with broad flavors of mature, slightly abv: 12.3% Price: $35 The Eyrie Vineyards 2014 Original Vines Pi- oxidized tree fruits, plus lightly spicy notes of cin- 94 not Gris (Dundee Hills). Planted in 1965, namon and baking spices. It’s very well made, but Bethel Heights 2013 Estate Chardonnay these are the oldest examples of this variety in the well apart from any standard approach. —P.G. 90 (Eola-Amity Hills). Firm and polished, this entire country. Splendid texture is a defining char- abv: 13.6% Price: $32 barrel-fermented wine is just rounded off enough, acteristic, with a yeasty, creamy mouthfeel. Ripe without damping the bright, almost crunchy fruit. apples and toasted grains come through, as the wine Sweet Cheeks 2014 Pinot Gris (Willamette There’s a light touch of toast and the structure for extends through a long and powerful finish. Try it 90 Valley). This bright and spicy wine re- further bottle age to improve it. Drink 2017–2025. with grilled shrimp and a wine and butter sauce. freshes with palate-cleansing minerality. The crisp, —P.G. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. fresh-cut pear and apple fruit carries hints of or- abv: 12.6% Price: $28 abv: 12.5% Price: $41 ange liqueur. Drink this while it’s in the bloom of youth. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Left Coast Cellars 2014 Truffle Hill Chardon- Antiquum Farm 2014 Daisy Pinot Gris (Wil- abv: 13% Price: $16 90 nay (Willamette Valley). For full review see 92 lamette Valley). The less expensive of the page 12. winery’s two Pinot Gris, this is in some respects the Ancient Cellars 2014 Old Mill Pinot Gris (Wil- abv: 13.8% Price: $24 better wine. Excellent focus pulls crisp flavors of 88 lamette Valley). Barrel-fermented in neu- pear, lemon curd and flinty mineral into sharp reso- tral oak, this is ready to drink, softly flavorful with Big Table Farm 2013 Chardonnay (Willa- lution, and appealing minerality gives the acidity a yellow apple and other yellow fruits, and a warm, 88 mette Valley). Solidly built, almost chunky, resonant texture. It all resolves in a lovely, creamy autumnal mouthfeel. Drink now through 2018. the accent flavors suggest time spent in a percent- finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. —P.G. age of new wood. Citrus and apple are cloaked in abv: 13.3% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $18 oaky spices and barrel flavors of toast, vanilla and butter. —P.G. Archery Summit 2014 Ab Ovo Pinot Gris Château 2014 Pinot Gris (Willamette abv: 12.5% Price: $45 92 (Dundee Hills). Rich and creamy, this styl- 88 Valley). Pretty, pale and poised, this offers ish, concrete-egg-fermented Pinot Gris is both light pear flavors with a touch of cinnamon. Snappy David Hill 2013 Estate Reserve Chardonnay muscular and fleshy. Generous fruit flavors combine acidity and a clean, fresh finish all contribute.Best 88 (Willamette Valley). Soft and buttery, this pear and peach with highlights of orange peel and Buy. —P.G. drink-now style is as smooth as a polished stone. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 The fruit is fairly generic and light, but the pene-

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Omero 2014 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). rich enough to satisfy four tasters. Editors’ Choice. and pear flavors from the latter two components. All 88 This is a pretty, light-copper hue, from a —P.G. in all it’s an aromatic, floral, broadly flavorful and small percentage of the grapes being kept on the abv: 10% Price: $24/375 ml distinctive white wine. —P.G. skins. Fruity flavors of pear and apple dominate, abv: 13.4% Price: $28 while the acids conjure up suggestions of orange The Eyrie Vineyards 2014 juice. —P.G. 92 (Dundee Hills). Deep and rich in this land- Folin Cellars 2014 Estate Viognier (Rogue abv: 13% Price: $23 mark Oregon vintage, this Pinot Blanc abounds with 88 Valley). This yellow-gold wine is packed flavors of buttered pears, toast and vanilla custard. with bright floral and citrus scents and flavors. It’s Rainstorm 2014 Pinot Gris (Oregon). Of- The texture and balance are spot-on, and the wine is a mouthful of lemon-drop goodness, with the rough 88 fering fine flavor for the price, this release flat-out delicious.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. edges smoothed by a percentage aged in neutral oak. emphasizes spice over fruit, with a sharp, slightly abv: 12.5% Price: $23 The finish features light honey, with a slight burn. herbal edge. Crisp apple and pear show ginger high- —P.G. lights. Drink this lightly chilled with some spicy Ghost Hill 2013 Bayliss-Bower Vineyard Blanc abv: 14.2% Price: $27 Thai food. —P.G. 91 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Very few abv: 12.5% Price: $14 blanc takes on Pinot Noir attain the richness and Henry Estate 2014 Müller-Thurgau (Umpqua distinction of this coppery-colored wine. Styled as a 88 Valley). The spritz you see in the glass Mahonia 2014 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val- “Blanc de Noir minus the bubbles,” it falls more into translates into a tongue-tickling experience in the 87 ley). It might be a good idea to decant this to the rosé category in terms of its mix of light peach, mouth. Fresh flavors of orange, grapefruit and pine- let the burnt-match aromas blow off. They tend to pear and papaya flavors. By any name it’s exception- apple are supported with moderate acidity. This is mask the ripe, round, fruit-driven style of the wine. al, all stainless-steel fermented and drinking like a not a , but you’ll want to drink this Apart from that initial funk, it’s a pleasant, fruity, dream. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. while it retains that refreshing hint of fizz. —P.G. quaffable white wine. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Château Bianca 2014 Gewürztraminer (Wil- Del Rio 2013 Estate Grown Viognier (Rogue Henry Estate 2014 Pinot Gris (Umpqua Val- 90 lamette Valley). This lovely wine cap- 85 Valley). As with most Del Rio wines, this is 86 ley). On the plus side, this is a well-ripened, tures the floral, perfumed essence of the grape in 100% varietal. Fruity and forward, it’s a bowl full full-bodied wine, with a mix of pear and citrus. It’s a restrained, sippable style. It’s dry and crisp, with of peaches and apples. Flavors are light and fresh, lightly spicy and drinking at its peak, broad and just lemony fruit and the delicate sensation that you are without much substance. Drink up. —P.G. a little flat on the palate. —P.G. drinking fresh flowers.Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 12.5% Price: $15

Silvan Ridge 2014 Pinot Gris (Willamette Château Bianca 2014 Riesling (Willamette SPARKLING WINES 85 Valley). Almost completely transparent, 90 Valley). Despite the low alcohol reading, this wine is lightly fruity and perfectly pleasant; this comes across as dry rather than off dry. Apple, Argyle 2005 Extended Tirage Brut (Willa- there’s just not much to it. Traces of apple, pear and pear and white peach anchor a just-ripe-enough 93 mette Valley). Two-thirds Pinot Noir and white melon come up, quickly running into a short, wine with highlights of citrus oil. There’s good one-third Chardonnay, this aged a decade in bot- thin finish. —P.G. length and focus throughout. Best Buy. —P.G. tle on the yeast, before being disgorged in August abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 11.5% Price: $15 2015. Amazingly fresh, it bursts with subtle, well- integrated flavors of citrus rind, peach, almond and Del Rio 2013 Estate Grown Pinot Gris (Rogue David Hill 2014 Estate Gewürztraminer (Wil- pastry. The length and imposing structure suggest 84 Valley). Herbal and thin, this is not the 90 lamette Valley). Though 28 g/L of residual it can age for another decade. Drink now through fleshy, fruity style typical of Oregon Pinot Gris. Di- sugar is indicated, this lushly fruity and thoroughly 2025. Cellar Selection. —P.G. lute flavors of apple and melon are smothered in delicious wine does not seem at all sweet, and just abv: 12.5% Price: $75 herbs. —P.G. barely off dry. Peaches and pears combine in a light- abv: 12.8% Price: $16 ly spicy but intensely flavorful wine with a myriad Argyle 2011 Brut Rosé (Willamette Valley). of food pairing possibilities, notably Thai 91 Principally Pinot Noir, the blend includes Hinman 2014 Pinot Gris (Oregon). This wine dishes, or poultry with a fruit sauce. —P.G. 25% and a splash of Chardonnay. 83 has a perceptible tawny tone despite its abv: 12.1% Price: $18 It’s a light and pretty salmon pink in hue, with hints youth, and the scents also seem to suggest that the of honeysuckle and moist earth in the nose. Flavors wine is slightly oxidized. Whiffs of and apple Sweet Cheeks 2014 Riesling (Oregon). Here suggest tart raspberries and Bing cherries, with cider lead into a soft, flat, rather dull palate of non- 89 is an easy-drinking, off-dry and delightfully impressive minerality in the crisp, lingering finish. descript fruit. —P.G. fragrant wine to enjoy as an apéritif or with lightly —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $14 spiced Asian fare. Honeysuckle and orange blossom abv: 12.5% Price: $50 aromatics dovetail with pear and papaya fruit fla- vors. It’s round and appealing, with a good lift to the Argyle 2011 Knudsen Vineyard Blanc de Blancs OTHER WHITE WINES finish.Best Buy. —P.G. 91 (Dundee Hills). This is made in a steely, abv: 9% Price: $14 high-acid style, harvested at low (18.5) brix and Sineann 2013 Riesling (Oregon). This sweet, put through 25% malolactic just to keep it all in 95 luscious, dessert-style wine keeps enough Big Table Farm 2014 Wirtz Vineyard Edel- proportion. Give this some time in the glass and it acidity to contrast and compensate for the sugar. 88 zwicker White Wine (Willamette Valley). shines, with a focused mix of lemon, apple and min- There’s nothing flabby here, but how sweet it is! Edelzwicker is an Alsatian term meaning noble eral flavors. This can easily age for another decade Caramel apples, molasses, maple syrup and honey blend, and is applied to any blend of white wine at least. Drink 2020–2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. coalesce around concentrated fruits, ranging from grapes. Here, it is Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and abv: 12.5% Price: $50 citrus through tropical. Orange and peach, pine- Riesling, capturing the floral aromatics and lightly apple and papaya are all to be found. A half bottle is oily mouthfeel of the former, along with the citrus

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Argyle 2012 Vintage Brut (Willamette Val- Gary Farrell 2013 Olivet Lane Vineyard Char- effortless acidity throughout, finishing with just the 90 ley). Clean, crisp and bright, this was 94 donnay (Russian River Valley). For full re- right twist of lemon peel. —V.B. fermented in stainless (with just 10% in neutral view see page 4. abv: 14.1% Price: $28 wood), and not put through malolactic. The blend is abv: 13.8% Price: $45 60/40 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir, yielding fresh fruit Gary Farrell 2013 Rochioli-Allen Vineyards flavors of apple and melon that are focused and pre- Gary Farrell 2013 Rochioli-Allen Vineyards 92 Oak Puncheon Fermented Chardonnay (Rus- cise. A streak of ginger runs through racy acidity. 94 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full sian River Valley). For full review see page 7. —P.G. review see page 4. abv: 14.1% Price: $60 abv: 12.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.3% Price: $55 Keller 2013 Oro de Plata Chardonnay (So- Lombardi 2013 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). 92 noma Coast). A complex mélange of briny, ROSÉS 93 For full review see page 6. preserved lemon, apple crisp and caramel brittle, abv: 14.5% Price: $36 this wine is deceptively elegant and refined, with a Swick 2014 Cancilla Vineyard Blanc de Noir dark, brooding finish. —V.B. 90 (Willamette Valley). All Pinot Noir, fer- Lynmar 2013 La Sereinité Chardonnay (Rus- abv: 14.1% Price: $33 mented in neutral oak and put through partial ma- 93 sian River Valley). Flinty lemon and caramel lolactic, this belongs in the rosé category. A pretty, are flouted around rich layers of caramel and baked Lynmar 2013 Old Wente Chardonnay (Rus- pale-copper color, it offers a pleasing toasted-crack- quince in this blend of two vineyard sites, both 92 sian River Valley). An exuberance of deca- er frame around stone fruit and supple acids. Drink planted to Wente selection Chardonnay. The rich- dent oak combines with a full-bodied figure of apple this chilled to white wine temperature. —P.G. ness of the vineyards speaks loudly enough to call crumble and baked peach to make this wine mouth- abv: 13% Price: $20 for only neutral oak to be used in aging. The fin- coating and deliriously spicy in ginger and nutmeg. ish brings a spark of pineapple and mango custard. Given 83% new oak, with power and concentration Trinity Vineyards 2014 Pinot Noir Rosé (Wil- —V.B. integrated, it finds a streak of elegance on the fin- 90 lamette Valley). This low-alcohol rosé abv: 14.3% Price: $70 ish. —V.B. spent five months in neutral oak, yielding additional abv: 14.2% Price: $55 complexity and an appealing creaminess to the fin- Lynmar 2013 Susanna’s Vineyard Chardon- ish. Strawberry and cherry flavors are accompanied 93 nay (Sonoma Coast). This vineyard desig- Migration 2013 Charles Heintz Vineyard Char- by lighter hints of peaches and sweet spices. It’s a nate is consistently richer and rounder than many 92 donnay (Sonoma Coast). For full review see thoroughly modern, delicious rosé. Editors’ Choice. of the other whites made by the producer, a mix of page 8. Cellar Selection. —P.G. thick and concentrated barrel influence and savory- abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: 12.5% Price: $19 sweet fruit and spice. Full bodied, it offers a curi- ously compelling briny edge, decadent yet bright. Sequoia Grove 2013 Chardonnay (Napa Val- Mahonia 2014 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Willa- —V.B. 92 ley). For full review see page 8. 86 mette Valley). Fresh and fruity, this cherry- abv: 14.4% Price: $55 abv: 14.1% Price: $28 red rosé cloaks its strawberry and raspberry fruit in a graham-cracker frame. Tart fruit flavors carry an Parallel 2013 Chardonnay (Russian River Val- Bernardus 2013 Rosella’s Vineyard Chardon- initial impression of sweetness, but in fact this is 93 ley). For full review see page 6. 91 nay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Creamy on the finished dry. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $55 nose, this wine shows seared pineapple, apple cus- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 tard, lemon oil and faint iodine aromas. The flavors Testarossa 2013 Diana’s Chardonnay (Cali- are evenly placed between lemon yogurt and salted Château Bianca 2014 Rosé (Willamette Val- 93 fornia). An oily character of tangerine skin, apples, mixing a bit of tang and ripe fruit with a sa- 85 ley). Though unstated on the label, this is peach flesh and condensed nuts meets with cara- vory sea salt. —M.K. made from Pinot Gris. It seems to be glowing, an mel, pinched soda and cut stone-fruit freshness on abv: 15.4% Price: $40 almost day-glo shade of orange, and is quite dry, the nose of this top bottling from the Los Gatos pro- with flavors of pine needles and watermelon.Best ducer. The palate shows ripe Granny Smith apple Carneros Hills 2012 Chardenet Durell Vineyard Buy. —P.G. flesh, seared pears and almond oil, with a sea-salt 91 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This is an in- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 splash on the finish. —M.K. augural release for the winery, established in 2013 abv: 14.3% Price: $70 where a former part of Buena Vista Winery stood. The grapes come from rocky Durell nearby, and take CALIFORNIA Testarossa 2013 La Rinconada Vineyard Char- on its signature concentration and celebration of 93 donnay (Sta. Rita Hills). The fantastic nose fruit. Golden in color, this is a ripe mingling of pear, WHITE WINES pitches French toast together with Meyer lemon baked apple and caramel that is entirely full bodied. pith, crushed rock, struck match and a slight sour- —V.B. CHARDONNAY cream element. This wine is immediately lively on abv: 14.5% Price: $65 the tongue, with lots of but not overdone acidity. Benovia 2013 Chardonnay (Fort Ross- Yeasty toast flavors are cut by lemon and poached La Chertosa 2013 Reserve Chardonnay (So- 94 Seaview). For full review see page 4. pear on a racy and focused palate. —M.K. 91 noma Valley). Waxy pear and white plum abv: 14.2% Price: $48 abv: 14.1% Price: $48 provide the fruit-forward flavors of this wine, which exhibits plenty of minerality on the midpalate be- Croix 2013 Starling Morelli Roost Chardon- City Winery of New York 2014 Scopus Vine- fore offering a wave of richness and vanilla cream. 94 nay (Russian River Valley). For full review 92 yard Reserve Chardonnay (Sonoma County). The finish finds a focus and balance between these see page 4. Cellar Selection. This is a lovely vineyard-designate, floral and crisp two ends, ending light and bright. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $75 in tangy grapefruit and tangerine. With plenty of abv: 13.8% Price: $25 complexity to its breadth and depth, it maintains

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Lynmar 2013 Quail Hill Vineyard Chardonnay Dry Creek Vineyard 2013 DCV Estate Block cut with walnut oil and a citrus edge. It’s more pithy 91 (Russian River Valley). Briny, with a taste of 90 10 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Waxy in flavor, showing orange bitters, dried apples and salted kettle corn, this offers a nice balance between apple stars in this brisk, approachable white from a more nut oils, slightly oxidative in style. —M.K. an edgier, more savory character and the fine-tuned single estate-farmed block, the oak briny and salty abv: 14.5% Price: $70 minerality that extends into the finish as bristles of in toast and honey. Textured and elegantly light Meyer lemon and wet stone. The aromatics reveal bodied, it finishes with a satisfying note of lemon Acacia 2013 Winery Lake Vineyard Char- an inviting touch of orange peel and lemon custard. candy. —V.B. 89 donnay (Carneros). Tropical with notes of —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 gingerbread and vanilla, this wine tastes full bod- abv: 14.2% Price: $55 ied despite its medium level of alcohol. It offers a Gainey 2013 Limited Selection Chardonnay reduced note on the finish, anchored otherwise in MacRostie 2013 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). 90 (Sta. Rita Hills). A bit tight and dainty on sweet toffee. —V.B. 91 For full review see page 10. the nose, with reserved apple custard and white- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 flower aromas, this top-level bottling shows lots of nerve and verve once sipped. It offers salt, lime juice Bernardus 2013 Soberanes Vineyard Char- Moniker 2013 Chardonnay (Mendocino Coun- and honeysuckle on the palate, with lots of tension 89 donnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Toasted 91 ty). For full review see page 10. that lasts long after the bottle has been opened. It’s nuts, seared marshmallows, roasted corn and dried abv: 13.5% Price: $25 a well-structured white. —M.K. apple play on the nose of this richly layered wine. abv: 14.1% Price: $38 The palate shows plenty of lively sea salt from front Small Vines 2013 Chardonnay (Sonoma to back, along with concentrated citrus character 91 Coast). From an estate vineyard and given Migration 2013 Searby Vineyard Chardonnay and an apple-syrup ripeness. —M.K. very little oak, this white sings in Key-lime pie and 90 (Russian River Valley). Dark in color and of- abv: 14.7% Price: $40 orange blossom, a heady, floral liquid invitation that fering opulent aromas of crème brûlée and marsh- gives way to unctuous texture and medium weight. mallow, this vineyard-designate is marked by its Bright Angel WInes 2013 Courtney’s Vine- Chalky somewhat on the finish, it should continue wealth of orange blossom aromas, an inviting, floral 89 yard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Named af- to integrate over time. —V.B. entry. While it exudes richness on the nose, it re- ter a trail in the Grand Canyon, this Napa-made bot- abv: 14.1% Price: $53 mains much more restrained and dry on the palate, tling shows Japanese pear and cracked vanilla candy finishing with leanness and length. —V.B. on a complex nose. It offers ample amounts of min- Testarossa 2013 Lone Oak Vineyard Chardon- abv: 14.5% Price: $55 erality, from slate to chalk, on the palate, followed 91 nay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Warm vanilla by smoked stone fruit in the middle and pencil-lead notes are laid across ripe nectarine, apple skin and Parmeson 2013 Josephine Hill Vineyard elements toward the finish. —M.K. a twist of lemon rind on this single-vineyard study 90 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full abv: 14.3% Price: $40 by the Los Gatos-based winery. Pencil lead kicks off review see page 12. the palate, which then opens into poached apples abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Agnitio 2013 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay and lemon oil, laid across a sizzling acidity that lasts 88 (Sonoma Coast). From a vineyard known long. —M.K. Tamber Bey 2013 Deux Chevaux Vineyard for producing powerfully ripe, dense fruit with abv: 14.1% Price: $48 90 Chardonnay (Yountville). An oily, rich and wet-stone minerality, this wine delivers on many of full-figured white from the producer’s estate vine- those points. It offers intense, rich tastes of baked Thomas George 2012 Starr Ridge Vineyard yard, this wine offers elements of honey-baked ap- apple, graham-cracker crust and crème brûlée. Soft 91 Estate Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). ple and caramel. Well made in a big style, it’s listed and layered, it ends in a statement of big fruit. —V.B. Lemony and light on entry, this tropically kissed, as 100% from the Dijon clone of Chardonnay. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $60 textured white develops body and weight over time, abv: 14.9% Price: $55 finding a balance and elegance that’s hard to ignore. Bernardus 2013 Sierra Mar Vineyard Char- A touch of white peach wraps up the finish. —V.B. Testarossa 2013 Sierra Madre Vineyard Char- 88 donnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Quite yel- abv: 14.2% Price: $40 90 donnay (Santa Maria Valley). Toast, iodine, low in color, nearing orange, this oxidative-style steel and kumquat-skin aromas show on this bot- wine shows quinine, walnuts and preserved lemons Wedell Cellars 2011 Sierra Madre Vineyard tling from one of the region’s older properties. The on the very concentrated, oily nose. The texture is 91 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Caramel- palate offers stone fruit ripeness but is driven by a sticky, with flavors of seared lemons and orange oil, ized white peach, salted lemon, pear skin, red apple sharp, citrusy acidity of Meyer lemon and Mexican yet it retains a lime-skin liveliness. It’s quite an in- and the hint of white flowers show on the nose of lime. —M.K. teresting bottling for fans of the style. —M.K. this wine by these longtime but under-the-radar abv: 14.4% Price: $48 abv: 14.9% Price: $40 producers. The palate blends orange skins and grapefruit pith with buttered toast, sea salt and a Thomas George 2012 Estate Chardonnay 2013 El Camino Vineyard Chardon- dill-like herb character. —M.K. 90 (Russian River Valley). A blend of three 88 nay (Santa Barbara County). Ripe yellow abv: 14.5% Price: $50 estate-farmed vineyards, this is a velvety-smooth apples and yellow pears meet with a tropical sense expression of the variety. It conveys a touch more of guava and tuberose on this bottling from a vine- Zaca Mesa 2013 Chardonnay (Santa Ynez richness and concentration than some of the pro- yard near the intersection of Highways 101 and 154. 91 Valley). Tart aromas of sour cream, yogurt, ducer’s other wines, at least at the beginning of the The flavors are more tart, with green-apple flesh, candied lime and pressed quince show on the nose glass, when almond and hazelnut rule the day. But light pear and a much more reserved touch of tropi- of this stylishly structured Chardonnay. The palate then it takes on a lightness toward the lengthy fin- cal fruit and flower. —M.K. carries the theme forward, with pithy pink grape- ish, ending in a mix of lemon zest and apple. —V.B. abv: 15.4% Price: $16 fruit notes, lime ade and brie rinds, showing firm abv: 14.2% Price: $36 tension on the tongue and bound-up energy that Carneros Hills 2012 Chardenet Coteau Blanc will keep this bottle alive for years. —M.K. Wedell Cellars 2012 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita 88 Chardonnay (Carneros). From a particular abv: 13.5% Price: $16 90 Hills). The nose on this appellation blend is block with limestone soils, this is indeed a light, full of soft tones of ripe nectarine and pluot, though steely and minerally white wine, given nine months

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 in French oak, only 17% of it new. It takes on that by aromas of honeysuckle and refreshing flavors of Orogeny 2013 Chardonnay (Russian River Val- oak with subtle concentration, offering a touch of pear and quince. —V.B. 87 ley). The barrel speaks loudly here, fortress- baked pineapple, peach and vanilla, ending in a bit- abv: 14.1% Price: $25 ing deep, full-bodied layers of vanilla, tropical guava tersweet bite of Meyer lemon. —V.B. and pineapple. Creamy and textured, it finishes in abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Thomas George 2012 Baker Ridge Vineyard more vanilla. —V.B. 88 Estate Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). abv: 14.2% Price: $35 Chamisal Vineyards 2014 Stainless Unoaked Richly intense, this wine wraps thick textures of 88 Chardonnay (Central Coast). Zesty aromas caramel and toffee around tropical mango. The full Acacia 2013 Sangiacomo Vineyard Chardon- of just-cut apple, lemon-lime soda and tuberose body celebrates ripeness while finding enough re- 86 nay (Carneros). Opulently dense, this wine meet a stony quality on the nose of this popular straint. —V.B. opens nicely in orange blossom and caramel apple, wine from the Edna Valley producer. It’s fresh and abv: 14.6% Price: $47 followed by a palate that’s somewhat incomplete in crisp on the palate, with ripe apples, kiwi and sea- fruit-flavor follow-up. Concentrated and full bod- salt flavors. —M.K. Vinum 2014 V Series Chardonnay (Mon- ied, it packs a powerful punch, ending in oak. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $18 88 terey). For full review see page 15. Best Buy. abv: 14.6% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Comartin 2013 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Bellacana 2013 Bellacana Vineyard Chardon- 88 Mountains). This appellation blend shows White Hart Wine 2014 Chardonnay (Arroyo 86 nay (Alexander Valley). Coconut-laden oak buttered toast with lemon marmalade on the nose, 88 Seco). Plush, showy aromas of candied kicks off the entry of this wine, a crisp version of with a growing sense of tropicality. The palate is apples, caramelized pears, condensed honeysuckle, the variety that nonetheless exhibits plenty of oak plush and smoky, with vanilla and cream flavors yellow peach, quinine and cinnamon spice show on characteristics and a rich ripeness of baked apple, cut by just enough citrusy tang to keep it serious. the nose of this wine. The palate takes a sour turn, pear and pineapple. —V.B. —M.K. with lemon peels, pear skins and a touch of chamo- abv: 13.8% Price: $19 abv: 14.4% Price: $35 mile. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Bouchaine 2013 Estate Chardonnay (Carne- Eco Terreno 2013 Barrel Fermented Chardon- 86 ros-Napa Valley). Floral and inviting in va- 88 nay (Alexander Valley). In this gold-colored Bernardus 2014 Precis Unoaked Chardonnay nilla and caramel, this wine tastes bigger and richer wine, green-apple skin and nutmeg-ginger spice 87 (Monterey County). This stainless bottling than it is, offering more in the way of ripeness and wrap around a full-bodied build, with a preponder- shows fresh-squeezed lemons, yellow melon and texture than acidity. It finishes full bodied. —V.B. ance of ripe peach within its makeup too. Decadent, canned pear on the fresh, clean and not overly tropi- abv: 13.8% Price: $30 and nutty from the oak, it brings a fulsomeness of cal nose. The palate is smooth and plush down the crème brûlée to the finish. —V.B. middle, but sharply tight on the edges, with flavors Francis Ford Coppola 2013 Director’s Cut abv: 14.8% Price: $29 of pear, lime and apple that prove a bit sour and tart 86 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This toward the finish. —M.K. ripe wine is intense and full bodied, with sultry lay- Materra 2013 Chardonnay (Oak Knoll Dis- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 ers of baked apple and peach. A flinty note marks 88 trict). Well integrated in terms of barrel the finish. —V.B. use (listed as 60% used French oak and 40% new), Inception 2013 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara abv: 14.5% Price: $21 this features a robust exuberance of fruit, from 87 County). A dense vanilla-bean character Asian pear to Meyer lemon. Spicy with a touch of coats a nose of seared white peach and toasted nuts. Gary Farrell 2013 100% Skin Fermented nutmeg and ginger, it hones a fine line of minerality The palate features thick, ripe fruits, preserved 86 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Very throughout. —V.B. lemon, a touch of walnut and a rocky grip. —M.K. little of this bottling was made. It’s an experiment abv: 14.4% Price: $25 abv: 14.8% Price: $20 in making a white wine the way one would a red, fermented with skins and seeds, then aged eight San Simeon 2014 Estate Reserve Chardon- Keller 2013 La Cruz Vineyard Chardonnay (So- months in new French oak. It’s not for everyone. 88 nay (Monterey). Crisp and fresh aromas of 87 noma Coast). Ripe butterscotch and a nota- Cloudy and funky, it’s teeming with acidity and yet lime sorbet and iced apple flesh greet the nose on ble flank of big vanilla and oak greet the entry of this somewhat dense on the palate, the fruit muted in this Riboli family bottling. The palate is steely and vineyard-designate. It makes for a luxurious wine favor of a taste of flowers and clay. —V.B. bright, with Anjou pear flesh, a bit of smoke and reflective of a warm vintage and approach. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $50 some red-apple ripeness. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $38 abv: 14.9% Price: $18 Michael Mondavi Family Estate 2013 Isabel Migration 2013 Chardonnay (Russian River 86 Mondavi Chardonnay (Carneros). Sharply Testarossa 2013 Cuvee Los Gatos Chardon- 87 Valley). A rich, thick and oaky 100% va- etched in pineapple and Meyer lemon, this wine re- 88 nay (Monterey County). Broad aromas of rietal, this comes from the Green Valley area, and tains a brightness of fruit and acidity throughout, seared lemons, white peach and nectarine are given possesses power and flavor in abundance. Baked never overly impeded by oak. A subtle, earthy herb- nuance with a bit of quinine on this entry-level apple and pear dance around lighter remembrances al streak plays in the background. —V.B. bottling. Stewed lemons and apple-custard flavors of lemon soufflé, finishing in a touch of ginger and abv: 13.8% Price: $30 show on the plush and pillowy palate, cut with an nutmeg. —V.B. acidic sizzle. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $32 Red Car 2013 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). abv: 14.1% Price: $23 86 High in acidity and low in oak, this is a Myka 2014 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This white that pushes the limits, reflective of the ex- Thomas George 2014 Sons and Daughters 87 white is a mix of tropical pineapple, tanger- treme, cool-climate vineyards from which it sourc- 88 Ranch Estate Chardonnay (Russian River ine and marshmallow, offering a creamy, doughy and es. Fresh-squeezed lemon is the star, the wet-stone Valley). Unoaked, and instead fermented for 10 yeasty texture on the palate. Chalky, it is medium minerality razor sharp. —V.B. months in both stainless steel and concrete egg, bodied with a hint of richness, finishing more steely abv: 13.4% Price: $38 this white remains light-bodied and crisp, touched than stuffy. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $15

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Acacia 2013 Thornton Vineyard Chardonnay ity. This is a well-balanced, vibrant and refreshing with salty cheeses. It is full bodied, very smooth- 85 (Sonoma Coast). This is an intense, some- wine. —J.G. textured and long on the finish, where honey and what unformed vineyard-designate, ripe with sweet abv: 12.7% Price: $24 vanilla flavors echo.Best Buy. —J.G. tannins that takes on considerable barrel flavors of abv: 13.5% Price: $11 vanilla and caramel. —V.B. Kobler 2014 Kobler Family Vineyards Viog- abv: 14.5% Price: $39 89 nier (Russian River Valley). Woody in aroma, Inception 2012 Camp 4 Vineyard Viognier this is an exceptionally light-bodied, floral and 86 (Santa Barbara County). Quite shy in aro- Francis Coppola 2014 Diamond Collection herbal white, marked most by its high-pitched acid- mas at first, the nose on this wine focuses on apple 85 Gold Label Chardonnay (Monterey County). ity that threatens to veer into extreme territory. In- candies, lime blossoms and Anjou pear juice. The Nectarine flesh and a hint of guava combine for a stead, beeswax and white peach figure into the mix, palate shows slightly sour apples and tangy lime rather tropical-leaning nose on this wine from the finishing in a refreshing twist of lemon. —V.B. juice, with a crisp pear backbone. —M.K. famed Hollywood director’s collection. A straight- abv: 12.6% Price: $36 abv: 13.8% Price: $30 forward and very ripe Gala apple character charac- terizes the palate, boosted by honeysuckle and tan- Lucas & Lewellen 2014 Viognier (Santa Bar- Lion Ranch 2013 Viognier (Santa Clara Val- gerine, laid across a decently grippy texture. —M.K. 89 bara County). Bright floralilty greets the 86 ley). The nose on this densely layered wine abv: 13.5% Price: $16 nose on this bottling, which shows lime and grape- show both the richness of caramelized citrus and fruit blossom as well as a lighter nectarine flesh. the freshness of apple blossoms, with a touch of io- Mandolin 2014 Chardonnay (Monterey). For The palate is restrained and grippy, a tart take on dine tossed in for intrigue. There’s a nice lime-like 85 full review see page 15. Best Buy. the varietal, with lime sorbet, lemon peel and yel- liveliness on the palate, though it is quite sour, with abv: 14.5% Price: $10 low-grapefruit flavors. —M.K. tart stone fruit flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $25 MooBuzz 2014 Chardonnay (Monterey). The 85 nose of this widely available wine jumps Foundry 2013 Catie’s Corner Viognier (Rus- from condensed apples and honey to cut pear on the 88 sian River Valley). This is a light, crisp white SAUVIGNON BLANC more broad whiffs. The flavors are light and a tad from a tremendous vineyard source. A mix of cu- ripe, with red apples, citrus and orange juice flavors. cumber and white peach at the heart of this wine B Cellars 2014 Juliana Vineyard Sauvignon —M.K. makes it seem lighter than it is. Oaky caramel va- 91 Blanc (Napa Valley). Given four months in abv: 13.5% Price: $17 nilla closes out the finish. —V.B. concrete egg, this is an exotically crisp and tex- abv: 14.4% Price: $32 tured white, lean and high in acidity with plenty Mossback 2014 Chardonnay (Russian River of mouthcoating body to find its balance. Lemon, 84 Valley). This wine is somewhat diluted and Mounts 2013 Viognier (Dry Creek Valley). grapefruit and tangerine are the highlights, finished one-dimensional. It makes a straightforward at- 88 Golden honey in color and tone, this white in refreshing layers of white peach. —V.B. tempt at bringing a richness of apple and anise to is nonetheless crisp, adorned in orange blossom and abv: 14.1% Price: $38 the fore around neutral oak dynamics before finish- a taste of white peach, the minerality never in ques- ing ripe and full. —V.B. tion. Half of the fruit is estate grown, with 8% Mar- Grieve 2013 Grieve Family Vineyard Sauvignon abv: 13.9% Price: $18 sanne blended in. —V.B. 91 Blanc (Napa Valley). For full review see page abv: 14.4% Price: $24 9. abv: 14.2% Price: $45 VIOGNIER Von Holt 2014 Terra Alta Vineyard Viognier 88 (Clements Hills). Fresh pear, white peach Merryvale 2014 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- Lawer Family 2014 Betsy’s Vineyard Viognier and fig aromas, a rich texture, and generous vanilla 90 ley). For full review see page 12. 92 (Knights Valley). For full review see page 8. and layered almond flavors describe this tasty wine abv: 14.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.3% Price: $24 that stays fresh and fruity through the finish. It of- fers a medium body and nice balance. —J.G. S.R. Tonella 2014 Sauvignon Blanc (Ruth- Perry Creek 2012 Altitude 2401 Viognier (El abv: 13.3% Price: $25 90 erford). From a fourth-generation farming 90 Dorado). Full bodied, buttery and spicy in family, this wine is sourced from the Niebaum- aroma and oaky in flavor, this wine has a big, bold Zaca Mesa 2014 Viognier (Santa Ynez Val- Tonella and Morisoli-Borges vineyards along the personality from the first whiff through the linger- 88 ley). Honeysuckle and white peach show on Rutherford Bench. It opens with a bouquet of ing finish. Complexity and body are its strong suits the nose of this bottling from the region’s longtime sweetly ripened mango, peach and pear, which con- rather than fruitiness. —J.G. Rhône producer. It’s a simple and straightforward tinue on the palate. Fierce acidity and a drop of an- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 take on the grape, with dried white peach, lemon- ise form the backdrop of the wine, which finishes lime candy and apple-peel flavors, wrapped up with somewhat tropical. —V.B. Carol Shelton 2014 Damiano Vineyard Viog- buzzing acidity and grippy texture. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $29 89 nier (Placer County). This full-bodied wine abv: 14.1% Price: $18 smells ripe and buttery, like a pear tart, and has Blackbird Vineyards 2014 Dissonance (Napa similar tasty flavors like ripe apple, vanilla and Materra 2014 Viognier (Oak Knoll District). 88 Valley). Oak, almond and nutmeg represent cream. Though it’s not technically sweet, the per- 87 This is a light, crisp, simple 100% expres- the rounder, lusher aspects of the 10% Sémillon in sonality is generous and the texture soft and rich. sion of the variety. It shines best in its aromas of this Sauvignon Blanc-based wine, complemented —J.G. honeysuckle and peach. —V.B. by creamy pear, peach and melon. The two work to- abv: 13.8% Price: $20 abv: 14.4% Price: $30 gether well, providing soft layers of crisp goodness in a glass. —V.B. Kendric Vineyards 2014 Proprietor Grown McManis 2014 Viognier (River Junction). abv: 14.1% Price: $32 89 Viognier (Marin County). Subtle honeysuck- 87 Fresh cantaloupe aromas, mouth-filling pear le, orange and apricot aromas lead to nicely tangy and peach flavors and a generous texture make this Martin Ray 2014 Dutton Ranch George Vine- fruit flavors, medium body and good crisp acid- an extroverted wine that could make a great pairing 88 yard Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley).

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 This wine shows perfumed lychee on the nose, be- Balletto 2013 Estate Grown Gewürztraminer of layering and intensity develops with more sips, fore weightier tones of melon, lemon and oak enter 90 (Russian River Valley). Stainless-steel fer- and lingers on the finish. —J.G. the picture, providing a richness of body and power. mented, this wine remains pungently aromatic in abv: 13.2% Price: $28 The oak and a sprinkling of nutmeg remain firm and woody, earthy tones, with accents of fragrant orange focused on the finish. —V.B. blossom and pear, while staying crisp and light on Jada Vineyard & Winery 2014 XCV (Paso abv: 14.2% Price: $25 the palate. Honey and lemon combine on the com- 91 Robles Willow Creek District). There’s a plex finish. —V.B. cantaloupe-like ripeness on the nose of this blend Heritance 2014 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- abv: 13.7% Price: $18 of 37% , 33% Viognier and 30% 87 ley). Kiwi, peach and pineapple mark this , but not overdone, layered with seared blend of 93% Sauvignon Blanc and 7% Sémillon, Halleck 2014 Saralee’s Vineyard Dry Gewurz- white peach, caramelized pear, poached apple and providing a tropical character and personality. Me- 89 traminer (Russian River Valley). Varietal in almond aromas. The palate is more restrained and dium in body and weight, it finishes moderately in- its celebration of lychees and roses, this wine also quite grippy, with flavors of green-apple skins, Bosc fluenced by oak and a touch of vanilla cream. —V.B. exudes richness and oak, while remaining relatively pear and a touch of honey. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $18 low in alcohol. From a fantastic site in the heart of abv: 14.5% Price: $38 the Russian River, it finishes in a tropical flourish. The Rule 2014 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- —V.B. Tablas Creek 2014 Patelin de Tablas Blanc 87 ley). Full bodied and brimming in vanilla abv: 13.2% Price: $35 91 (Paso Robles). Light banana flambée, vanilla and ripe peach, this white also offers big flavors of meringue and yellow-cake aromas show on the gen- grass and lime zest, coming down in the middle in erous but not overbearing nose of this blend of 49% terms of acidity. Fermented in stainless steel, it’s RIESLING Grenache Blanc, 31% Viognier, 12% Roussanne and fresh and fruity, with a creaminess to the finish. 8% . The tropicality of the nose disap- —V.B. Gustafson Family 2013 Heritage Tree Vineyard pears on the palate, which is tart and grippy with abv: 14.6% Price: $23 91 Estate Riesling (Dry Creek Valley). Light bod- green apple and Anjou pear flavors as well as a ied and highly aromatic in petrol, waxy apple and touch of melon and smoke. —M.K. V. Sattui 2014 Carsi Vineyard Reserve Sauvi- pear, this vineyard-designate is crisp and floral, abv: 13.3% Price: $20 87 gnon Blanc (Napa Valley). Lemon and quince with buoyant acidity. It lists the residual sugar at 9 flavors characterize this crisp, dry, 100% varietal g/L but tastes more dry than sweet, finishing with a Davis Family 2014 Cuvée Luke Saralee’s wine from a single vineyard site. It was fermented touch of cream. —V.B. 90 Vineyard (Russian River Valley). This is a and aged in both stainless steel and oak, in addition abv: 13% Price: $20 floral blend of 48% Roussanne, 35% Marsanne and to concrete egg. High-toned acidity remains sharp 17% Viognier. The Roussanne speaks loudest, while on the palate around a medium build and spicy fin- Solminer 2014 Riesling (Santa Barbara Coun- the whole offers a mix of dried and fresh apricot and ish. —V.B. 91 ty). Ripe aromas of honeydew are cut down creamy vanilla wafer that’s light bodied and fresh abv: 14.4% Price: $28 the middle with a pointed petrol note as well as lime with acidity. —V.B. skins and grapefruit pith. The palate on this bot- abv: 13.4% Price: $30 Charthia 2014 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- tling from popular Riesling source Kick-On Ranch 85 ley). The oak is pronounced from the start is wound up very tight, showing lime skins, focused Montemaggiore 2014 3 Divas (Dry Creek Val- of this full-bodied, slightly over-the-top white, acidity and a gray-rock minerality. This would go 90 ley). Estate-grown Viognier makes up the which comes off as reduced among layers of caramel great with shellfish now, or continue to emerge and majority of this blend, followed by 25% Roussanne and almond. A hint of ripe cantaloupe, peach and uncurl in the cellar from 2018–2030. Cellar Selec- and 22% Marsanne. Delicate, the aromas lean floral apricot provides a sense of freshness on the finish. tion. —M.K. and tart, a combination of peaches and honey that —V.B. abv: 12.2% Price: $28 build into an oaky, powerful finish. —V.B. abv: 15.4% Price: $28 abv: 14.1% Price: $25 Trefethen 2014 Dry Riesling (Oak Knoll Dis- V. Sattui 2014 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- 90 trict). For full review see page 13. Paro 2014 Santo Giordano Vineyard Belle 85 ley). With a handful of Sémillon blended in, abv: 12.5% Price: $25 90 Torrette (Carneros). Although this wine is this white was fermented in both stainless steel and listed as a white blend, the producer says the vari- concrete egg, with less than 3% having spent time Wharton 2014 Riesling (Napa Valley). Stone ety is Vernaccia, not found often in California. Light in oak. Tart green apple is most pronounced in fla- 88 fruit like apricot and white peach dominate in alcohol and approach, it opens in a bouquet of vor, with a slight metallic edge to the finish. —V.B. on the nose of this wine that tastes slightly off dry, waxy apple and Meyer lemon, followed by a medi- abv: 14.4% Price: $25 though no residual sugar content is listed. Hedonis- um-powered palate of pear. The finish is crisp and tic, it remains rich and creamy through the honey- lean. —V.B. laced finish. —V.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $26 GEWÜRZTRAMINER abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Tablas Creek 2013 Esprit Blanc de Tablas Gundlach Bundschu 2014 Estate Vineyard Dry 90 (Paso Robles). This blend of 71% Rous- 91 Gewürztraminer (Sonoma Coast). Made in an WHITE BLENDS sanne, 21% Grenache Blanc and 8% Picpoul Blanc Alsatian style from a 150-plus-year-old estate vine- offers cut Meyer lemon, tangerine and pink-grape- yard, this dry, well-crafted white is 90% stainless- Donkey & Goat 2014 Sluice Box (El Dorado). Be fruit aromas on the nose, along with the promise of steel fermented, with the rest fermented in neutral 91 prepared for a murky visual in this unusual, a creamy palate. Instead, the palate is quite tight oak. It conveys jasmine and ripe stone fruit, crisp, concentrated and complex wine. The appearance is and restrained, starting tart but opening toward clean with very little oak intrusion and sharply hazy and the color brassy, but the flavors are vivid, lemon rinds and pear flesh, and wiping up clean on etched acidity. Flavors of pear and green apple mark fresh and bracing. The mouthfeel has great acidity, the finish. —M.K. the finish. —V.B. an unusually thick texture and fine tannins. A sense abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 14.3% Price: $22

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Anaba 2013 Turbine White (Sonoma Valley). Vie Winery 2013 Roussanne (Lake County). 88 Briny, thick and gravelly, this is a blend 88 This dry, almost austere wine has some SWEET WINES of 42% Roussanne, 20% Grenache Blanc, 20% tasty but subtle characteristics including a toasty, Picpoul Blanc and 18% Marsanne, fermented half in slightly earthy and buttery aroma followed by sub- Testarossa 2012 Novitiate Late neutral French oak and half in stainless steel. High- tle almond and apricot flavors. It will make a great 90 Sauvignon Blanc (Arroyo Seco). Luscious toned acidity and citrus wrap around salty, herbal choice with tapas or fish, and a nice change of pace golden in color, this shows aromas of undertones, finishing crisp and light. —V.B. anytime. —J.G. honeyed and seared lemons, with hints of marigold abv: 14% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $29 and toasted sunflower seeds. The palate is rich and sweet, but balanced expertly with a great tartness. Mounts 2013 Verah (Dry Creek Valley). This Lion Ranch 2013 Grenache Blanc (Santa Clara —M.K. 88 is an eclectic collection of white Rhône va- 87 Valley). Clean apple, crisp pear and fresh abv: 16.2% Price: $25 rieties, beginning with equal parts Roussanne and yellow pluot aromas are lifted even more by stony Viognier, supported by Grenache Blanc, Picpoul chalkiness on this wine’s nicely balanced nose. The Mirassou 2014 Moscato (California). For full Blanc and Marsanne. A combination of honey and palate is ripe with Japanese pear flesh and Anjou 88 review see page 14. Best Buy. dried apricot are the standouts, aligned with a lilt of pear skins, yet the edges are bursting with tart lime, abv: 7.5% Price: $12 fresh peach and salty caramel. —V.B. kumquat and green apple-skin flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $28 abv: 13% Price: $27 Martin & Weyrich 2012 Allegro Moscato 86 (California). Floral, grapefruity aromas and Murrieta’s Well 2013 The Whip (Livermore Husch 2014 (Mendocino). This sweet honey and peach flavors make this a very ef- 88 Valley). Vivid aromas and flavors of apricot 86 wine will be ideal for picnics, or to bring fusive and fruity wine. Though rich with flavor it’s define this blend of seven white varieties as some- a little summer to the cocktail hour in the cold not cloying and is light bodied. —J.G. thing different, tangy and delicious. While very months. It smells like fresh-cut apples, tastes de- abv: 8.5% Price: $12 fruity in flavor, the wine remains dry, and an ever- liciously fruity and has crispness rounded off by a so-slight bitterness adds an appetizing snap. —J.G. dash of sweetness. —J.G. Twisted Cedar 2013 Moscato (Clarksburg). abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 83 This medium-bodied and sugary tasting wine has lots of apple and pear flavors. The texture Two Arrowheads 2013 White (Paso Robles). V. Sattui 2014 Carsi Vineyard Sémillon (Napa is soft and the finish very sweet. —J.G. 88 Honeyed red-apple slices, ripe papaya, 86 Valley). Succulent apricot and creamy va- abv: 11.2% Price: $15 honeysuckle and honeydew aromas are nicely cut nilla add to the round, full-bodied expression of this by wet-cement minerality on this nose of this 71% robust white wine, the Sémillon blended with 15% Viognier and 29% Roussanne blend. It’s tight and Sauvignon Blanc from a single vineyard. A thick- ROSÉS reserved on the palate, tart with lime and apple- ness of caramel and more vanilla rises on the finish. juice flavors. —M.K. —V.B. Lawer Family 2014 Rosé of Syrah (Knights Val- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $26 91 ley). For full review see page 10. abv: 12.1% Price: $22 Lion Ranch 2013 Lion’s Share (Santa Clara Chacewater 2013 Orange (Lake Coun- 87 Valley). Deeply yellow in hue, this blend 85 ty). This unpretentious, grapy and slightly Scratch 2014 Pinot Noir Rosé (Monterey offers thick, ripe and tropically condensed aromas herbal-tasting dessert wine is sweet but thick in 89 County). A light mauve in color, this Pinot of mango syrup, peach custard, tuberose and dried texture and superfruity in flavor. —J.G. Noir-based wine shows boisterous plum fruit, mac- apples. It’s lively on the sip, showing apples, more abv: 13% Price: $16 erated strawberries and a hint of clove on the ripe dried mango, a hint of honey and some nut-based nose, making it more entrée-ready than apéritif- oil flavors. —M.K. Merisi 2014 Pinot Gris (Los Carneros). Con- aimed. The palate offers strawberry and bubble- abv: 13% Price: $23 84 centrated and intense, this wine has a mix gum notes deftly hidden behind a veil of sour cherry of sour lemon and potatoes going on aromatically. and plum-skin tartness. —M.K. Naggiar 2014 Mamma Mia White Blend (Si- It is medium to full bodied, rather than crisp and abv: 13.2% Price: $18 85 erra Foothills). While the aroma is a touch light. —V.B. earthy, the flavors in this full-bodied and plush- abv: 13.8% Price: $24 Bernardus 2014 Rosé (Santa Lucia High- textured wine resemble honey, peach and almond. 88 lands). Light pink in the glass, this Pinot With a hint of sweetness to round out the mouth- Twisted 2013 Moscato (California). Light Noir-based wine shows pink lemonade, lime and feel, this could be a good match for a wide variety of 84 apple and floral aromas lead to rich fla- watermelon on the nose alongside wet cement. cheeses. —J.G. vors like apple, honey and grapefruit and a definite There is lots of tangy power and fresh energy on the abv: 13.2% Price: $23 sweetness. This wine is fresh and easy to enjoy. Best palate, with lemon-zest flavors making the tongue Buy. —J.G. sizzle and cleaning the mouth perfectly. —M.K. abv: 10.5% Price: $8 abv: 12.9% Price: $24 OTHER WHITE WINES Quady 2014 Electra Moscato (California). Rodney Strong 2014 Rosé of Pinot Noir (So- Belden Barns 2013 Estate Grown Grüner Velt- 82 This smells heavily of grape skins, and tastes 88 noma County). Pretty in pink and orange 91 liner (Sonoma Mountain). From the only like golden raisins. The texture is slightly fizzy and hues, this stainless-steel-fermented charmer has a estate in Sonoma County growing the variety, this very thick, and the flavors are very sweet. —J.G. candied orange flavor that’s delicious, followed by full-bodied white was aged in a combination of abv: 4.5% Price: $14 fresh, crisp strawberry and tangerine-laced acidity. neutral French oak and stainless steel. Sly on the Medium bodied, it ends with a burst of peach. —V.B. nose, it opens slowly with a whiff of sour apple and abv: 13.5% Price: $25 a squeeze of lemon, an intensity of savory dill and white pepper at its core. —V.B. Sofia 2014 Rosé (Monterey County). Quite a abv: 14.5% Price: $26 88 deep color for a rosé—easily confused with

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 a light Pinot Noir—this shows blackberry, black Bernardus 2013 Pisoni Pinot Noir (Santa bread. A sip reveals lots of flowery and herbal ele- raspberry, hibiscus and fruit punch on the nose. For 94 Lucia Highlands). Elegant and power- ments, proving light and elegant, but with lots of such a ripe nose, the palate is quite fresh and en- ful sandalwood spice, myrrh, red-cherry juice and flavors, from tart berries to pencil lead and a lifting ergetic, with black-plum skins, red-apple flesh and cola play prominently on the lush nose of this wine menthol element. —M.K. grippy cherry-pit flavors. —M.K. from the vineyard of regional pioneer Gary Pisoni. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: 12.5% Price: $19 The palate is laced with cranberry fruit and hibis- cus notes, yet the reward is the lifting herbal tone Croix 2013 Old Manzana Slope Pinot Noir Summers 2014 Rosé of Charbono (Calis- of dried marjoram, thyme, rosemary lavender and 93 (Russian River Valley). For full review see 88 toga). From 100% Charbono, this offers menthol. —M.K. page 5. Cellar Selection. hints of raspberry, cherry and orange on the nose, abv: 14.9% Price: $70 abv: 14.3% Price: $100 amid dense cherry and strawberry flavors that are concentrated and yet doesn’t overwhelm the acid- Lynmar 2013 Quail Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir Gary Farrell 2013 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot ity. Medium body and weight make it a nice option 94 (Russian River Valley). Shy in the glass, this 93 Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see for sipping and at the table. —V.B. wine needs more time in bottle to unravel its com- page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.1% Price: $28 plexities of rose petal and cardamom, flanked by abv: 14.2% Price: $70 crisp red cherry and raspberry. Tangy acidity is the Gustafson Family 2014 Heritage Tree Vine- star and backbone of the lovely, structured wine, Hyde de Villaine 2012 Ysabel Pinot Noir (So- 87 yard Estate Rosé of Syrah (Dry Creek Valley). which is delightful now, but worth cellaring through 93 noma Mountain). For full review see page 6. Reddish-orange in color, this is a high-toned, cit- 2023. Cellar Selection. —V.B. Cellar Selection. rus-laden wine that retains fresh flavors of grape- abv: 14.4% Price: $60 abv: 14.1% Price: $116 fruit and mandarin orange. It stays crisp and dry on the palate, with just a tiny suggestion of its time in Arista 2013 Mononi Vineyard Pinot Noir (Rus- Lynmar 2013 Quail Hill Vineyard Old Vines neutral oak. Pomegranate and a tang of sour cherry 93 sian River Valley). From a tiny, three-acre 93 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). From finish things off. —V.B. vineyard, this wine is soft, seamless and delightfully 40-plus-year-old vines planted on old rootstock, abv: 14.2% Price: $20 floral, offering lithe layers of red cherry, tea and oak, this wine is tangy in pomegranate, rhubarb and barely able to rein in its savory underbrush of black kirsch, but marked most by an irresistible depth of Rodney Strong 2014 Rosé of Malbec (Sonoma earth. Crisp, the acidity is pronounced and lengthy earthy truffle and black tea. Fine, dusty tannins add 87 County). This wine comes from Alexander and the rose aromatics irresistibly persistent. —V.B. to the complexity of the mouthfeel and finish, with Valley-grown Malbec, a variety the producer has abv: 14.3% Price: $64 a hint of cinnamon at the end. —V.B. been planting in earnest over the last few years. abv: 14.2% Price: $70 Dark pink-red, it is medium bodied and refreshing, Arista 2013 Toboni Vineyard Pinot Noir (Rus- with notes of cherry, blueberry and vanilla. —V.B. 93 sian River Valley). From a longtime vine- Pali 2013 Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $25 yard source, this wine opens with dried herb and 93 (Sta. Rita Hills). Lavender, potpourri, cran- menthol aromas. It’s exotic on the palate too, with berry-orange juice, Sichuan peppercorn, graphite Tin Barn 2014 Coryelle Fields Vineyard Joon seductive, silky-smooth texture and a tightness of and cinnamon hit the nose on this bottling from 85 Rosé of Syrah (Sonoma Coast). Reduced, acidity. Black cherry meets black tea and pomegran- winemaker Aaron Walker. The complex, ever-evolv- with a pronounced aroma and flavor of barrel, in ac- ate, with just the slightest remembrance of cola. ing palate blends pomegranate and citrus rinds with tuality this is a stainless-steel-fermented wine that Drink now through 2023. Cellar Selection. —V.B. black slate, peppercorns, dried oregano, thyme and takes on weight and density as if it spent time in abv: 14.5% Price: $64 rosemary. —M.K. wood. Meaty, it has an end note of caramel. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $58 abv: 14.1% Price: $23 Balletto 2013 Burnside Road Vineyard Pinot 93 Noir (Russian River Valley). This estate- Stemmler 2013 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir grown wine is tart and tangy, with a backbone of 93 (Anderson Valley). Gorgeous fruit aromas CALIFORNIA enviable structure. Orange citrus adds an illusion of and flavors fill out this plush-textured and softly heightened acidity that balances the burly tannins balanced wine. It offers ripe black cherry and rasp- RED WINES that give strength and power. Red cherry and pome- berry tones and a full body, but has a delightful, granate round out savory clove and black tea on the light touch on the palate. The finish lingers nicely, PINOT NOIR way to an earthy finish. Drink now through 2023. too. —J.G. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $44 Arista 2013 Two Birds Estate Grown Pinot abv: 13.9% Price: $42 95 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review Talley 2013 Rincon Vineyard Pinot Noir (Ar- see page 3. Cellar Selection. Bernardus 2013 Garys Vineyard Pinot Noir 93 royo Grande Valley). Plump but not overripe abv: 14.4% Price: $78 93 (Santa Lucia Highlands). On the wonder- raspberry and alpine strawberry notes greet the fully plump, dense and floral nose, this wine shows nose on this bottling, with hints of shiitake mush- Arista 2013 Longbow Pinot Noir (Russian blackberry jam, black cherry, allspice, wet river rooms, turned earth and lavender. There’s lots of 94 River Valley). Longbow is a blend of sev- stones and lilac aromas. The palate packs plenty of herbal depth and chaparral character on the palate, eral vineyard sites otherwise vineyard-designated earthy tones, from juniper and asphalt to eucalyp- with a touch of candied cherry, all presented with by the producer, a chance to showcase winemaker tus and black pepper, proving quite complex and zesty energy that buzzes through the sip. —M.K. Matt Courtney’s way with fruit. In his first vintage layered. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $64 at Arista, he excels in crafting a wine exuberant in abv: 14.9% Price: $65 high-toned black cherry and structured, silky tan- Testarossa 2013 Soberanes Vineyard Pinot nin, lengthy and fresh in aromas of rose petal and Bernardus 2013 Sierra Mar Vineyard Pinot 93 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This wine’s cinnamon. —V.B. 93 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A strong and distinct and intriguing nose pairs cola and cinna- abv: 14.5% Price: $64 complex nose on this wine offers concentrated hi- mon with cranberry, chopped chaparral scrub and biscus and pomegranate fruit along with star anise, wildfire smoke. That scrubby character of green mace, cinnamon, rose petals and a bit of toasted sage and mugwort extends to the palate, spicing up

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the beet juice, ripe raspberries and a pencil-lead raspberries, sagebrush, cola, crushed coffee, red show on the nose of this appellation blend by a backbone. —M.K. roses and a Dr Pepper scent show on the nose of longtime boutique producer, who flies far under abv: 14.1% Price: $64 this bottling from a vineyard that overlooks High- the radar even within the region. The palate shows way 101. The palate shows lots of chipped slate and plum skin, tart dark berry and barely ripe red-cur- Arista 2013 U.V. Lucky Well Vineyard Pinot pencil lead, yet surrounds a black raspberry and tart rant flavors, along with ground espresso, juniper 92 Noir (Russian River Valley). From a Ulises pomegranate core, clinging to citrus-rind elements and sandalwood. —M.K. Valdez-farmed vineyard, along the same fence line on the edges. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $75 as Valdez’s Silver Eagle, this smoky, succulent wine abv: 14.1% Price: $48 has a reductive quality that will benefit from more Eleven Eleven 2012 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot time in bottle. Blackberry, strawberry and earth Siduri 2013 Ewald Vineyard Pinot Noir (Rus- 91 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see provide a fleshy aspect of intrigue. Cellar through 92 sian River Valley). A brooding, thick-skinned page 9. 2023. Cellar Selection. —V.B. wine with a tinge of juicy pomegranate and cherry, abv: 14.8% Price: $65 abv: 14.3% Price: $64 this has a thicket of reduced oak that enters on the nose. Over time in the glass, it evolves into a twist Foxen 2013 La Encantada Vineyard Pinot Bernardus 2013 Soberanes Vineyard Pinot of baking spices and pine forest. —V.B. 91 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). From a vineyard in the 92 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Minerality is abv: 14.9% Price: $49 heart of the appellation comes this bottling that’s front and center on this bottling, with concentrated redolent with hibiscus, Earl Grey tea, orange rind, pencil lead the focus, backed up by sandalwood and Siduri 2013 Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir (Fort black cherry, spiced plum and fennel bulb on the dried rose petals but no overt fruit. The palate of- 92 Ross-Seaview). Aromas of rose petals and nose. The palate plays a bit lighter, with brisk cran- fers ripe cranberries and buttered cherries, yet the fresh-hoed earth come to the fore as this wine berry, more hibiscus and lots of cola, proving quite graphite and iron mineral core remain prominent. opens, followed by fine-grained, intense tannins light and easy to sip though well structured as well. Drink 2018–2028, allowing the fruit to blossom and savory wooded notes. Black pepper, red cherry, —M.K. and slight star-anise warmth to emerge. Cellar Se- sea salt and dried herb pop at different times. It’s abv: 13.8% Price: $62 lection. —M.K. still tight, so let this wine open in the glass or de- abv: 14.2% Price: $55 cant; better yet, cellar through 2023. Cellar Selec- Foxen 2013 Melville Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. tion. —V.B. 91 Rita Hills). Surprisingly shy in aromas at Coomber Family Ranch 2013 Private Reserve abv: 14.1% Price: $54 first, this eventually releases pleasing elements of 92 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This is a beefy mace, nutmeg, star anise and red cherry. The pal- and potent bottling, with beef char, ripe cranberry, Siduri 2013 Keefer Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir ate is softly lush and earthy, with black rocks, heavy graphite and iron showing right away on the nose. 92 (Russian River Valley). One of the producer’s black plum, hoisin sauce, boysenberry and a cola The savory cooked-meat quality carries strongly to consistently top-notch vineyard designates, this character. With quite strong structure, this will the palate, where complexity comes thanks to pencil vintage maintains the mystique, coaxing out earthy smooth and grow more delicious with time. Drink lead, red-cherry fruit and baking spice. —M.K. sandalwood, smoke, char and truffle around richer 2018–2028. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $75 overtones of butterscotch, clove and baked plum. abv: 14% Price: $64 Balanced and succulent, this is a fun, complex wine. Della 2013 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian —V.B. J. Lohr 2013 Fog’s Reach Pinot Noir (Arroyo 92 River Valley). From a storied site, this wine abv: 14.2% Price: $54 91 Seco). For full review see page 10. opens in aromas of syrupy kirsch and baking spices, abv: 14.93% Price: $35 inviting and full bodied, with a marked intensity. Siduri 2013 Sonatera Vineyard Pinot Noir On the palate it delves into richer notes of wild 92 (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 9. Nuggucciet 2013 Clos Pepe Vineyard Pinot strawberry, cinnamon and rose petal, along with a Cellar Selection. 91 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Pomegranate aromas strong reminder of pine and forest floor. It remains abv: 14.3% Price: $49 on the fairly tight nose of this wine combine with soft through the finish. —V.B. sandalwood, hibiscus tang and minerality. It’s tight, abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Stemmler 2013 Lawler Vineyard Pinot Noir bright and rocky on the palate, with chipped slate 92 (Carneros). Sourced from the Donum Ranch flavors providing an earthy backbone to the cran- Pali 2013 Rancho La Vina Pinot Noir (Sta. and named for the entrance road, this estate wine berry fruit. —M.K. 92 Rita Hills). Rose petals, pomegranate, dried is brooding in red raspberry and cherry, beside a abv: 13.7% Price: $48 strawberry, a hint of tar and dried herbs combine distinct air of forest floor and mushroom. Offering for a complex nose on this bottling from the Lom- length, depth and complexity, it’s intense, yet struc- Pali 2013 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. poc-based winery. There is bright acidity on the tured, finishing in clove and black pepper. —V.B. 91 Rita Hills). Fairly tight in aromas with cran- palate, with cranberry, black pepper, coffee and abv: 14.1% Price: $44 berry, tart cherries and gravel, this shows fresher cherry-pit flavors. —M.K. squeezed bramble berries the longer it’s opened. abv: 14.7% Price: $58 Talley 2013 Rosemary’s Vineyard Pinot Noir The palate is also tart with cranberries and anise, 92 (Arroyo Grande Valley). This study of re- though streamlined with tones of gravel, slate and Red Car 2013 Heaven & Earth Pinot Noir straint shows a bit of beet juice and cherry blossom dark chocolate. —M.K. 92 (Sonoma Coast). Strawberry jam dances at first on the nose. With patience, red currant and abv: 14.8% Price: $58 around high-strung cranberry, pomegranate and more purple fruits settle in alongside brown spice. rhubarb, combining for a tantalizing experience of The fruit flavors range delicately from cranberry to Red Car 2013 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This earthy dried herb and cardamom. Light bodied but pomegranate to black raspberry, with lots of inter- 91 wine draws from a handful of tremendous never thin, it finishes with a flourish of succulent esting tension and black peppercorn spice on the vineyard sites, including the producer’s estate, Platt orange peel. —V.B. palate. —M.K. and Clary Ranch, all cool-climate and windswept. abv: 13.6% Price: $70 abv: 14.3% Price: $75 It’s a tight, light and minimally messed-with wine, bright in cherry, pomegranate and rose. —V.B. Rusack 2013 Solomon Hills VIneyard Pinot Wedell Cellars 2011 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita abv: 13.3% Price: $45 92 Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Roasting meat, 92 Hills). Cherry blossom and wild berries

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Siduri 2013 Van der Kamp Vineyard Pinot Noir cinnamon on the nose. The palate focuses on tight and brooding in black fruit and a touch of graphite, 91 (Sonoma Mountain). Soft and layered, this cherry and wild berries, made tart with black cherry with a balance of lush earthiness. —V.B. wine has firmness and depth to its structure, and is and plum skins. It manages to show a great deal of abv: 14.1% Price: $28 dark in brooding baked plum and cinnamon stick. A balanced restraint for rather ripe fruit. —M.K. pungency of tight oak wraps its way around the fruit abv: 14.9% Price: $100 Stemmler 2013 Whole Cluster Pinot Noir and savory spice, suggesting additional time in cel- 90 (Anderson Valley). Raisin and white pepper lar, through 2023. Cellar Selection. —V.B. Carneros Hills 2013 Pinot Noir (Carneros). aromas, ripe fruit, floral and spicy anise flavors and abv: 13.8% Price: $49 90 Another of the producer’s inaugural re- full body add up to a big wine in which the whole- leases, this hails from the heart of Carneros where cluster fermentation method can be tasted. The Small Vines 2013 Baranoff Vineyard Pinot vineyards once belonging to Buena Vista had stood. hearty flavors, complexity and firm tannins paint a 91 Noir (Russian River Valley). This wine skirts Characteristic of the appellation, the wine is earthy unique picture, and this bottling makes a dramatic the limits of low alcohol, given added weight and and herbal, with light, crisp waves of grenadine and contrast in style from the “regular” Anderson Valley body through 75% whole-cluster fermentation and strawberry, staying light and textured on the pal- Pinot Noir. —J.G. time in 25% new French oak. Light in color and ate. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $44 weight, it’s sauvage and floral in a crispness of rose abv: 14.2% Price: $45 petal, with accents of cranberry and cherry. Tight- Stemmler 2013 Winside Vineyard Pinot ly wound, it could stand some time in the cellar, Chamisal Vineyards 2013 Estate Grown Pi- 90 Noir (Russian River Valley). From what is through 2021. Cellar Selection. —V.B. 90 not Noir (Edna Valley). For full review see now an estate property, once known as the Nugent abv: 12.1% Price: $72 page 11. Vineyard, Winside is brawny and brooding in wild abv: 14.1% Price: $40 strawberry compote, dark plum, blackberry and an Small Vines 2013 Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir inviting lushness. High-toned acidity keeps it from 91 (Russian River Valley). Aromas and flavors Clos LaChance 2012 Murphy’s Choice Pinot becoming overly dense on the palate. Strong tannin of sandalwood and grenadine layer around this vel- 90 Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Root beer, on the finish reflects a high-tannin vintage overall. vety, seductive wine. It offers black tea, truffle and cola nut, black cherry, black raspberry and anise —V.B. forest floor, the body sinewy and complex. Savory seed combine for an exciting nose on this bottling abv: 14.5% Price: $44 in cinnamon and clove on the finish, it needs more from a winery near Morgan Hill. The mouthfeel is time to open; decant or cellar through 2021. Cellar full, with graphite and lively fennel-bulb spice mix- Cebada 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Ynez Valley). Selection. —V.B. ing with blackberry fruit and an earthy elegance on 89 Sandalwood, hibiscus and grapeseed aro- abv: 13.6% Price: $55 the pleasing palate. —M.K. mas converge on the nose of this wine that comes abv: 14.5% Price: $50 from a vineyard just west of the Sta. Rita Hills. The Small Vines 2013 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). palate shows barely ripe raspberry fruit, a touch of 91 Feral and smoky, this light-bodied, light-col- Della 2013 Terra de Promissio Pinot Noir grassiness and a spicing of anise seed, proving quite ored estate-farmed wine gives way to dark cherry, 90 (Sonoma Coast). Although red cherry and light and vibrant even at four years old. —M.K. white pepper and pronounced floral elements of raspberry make an appearance, this vineyard-desig- abv: 13.2% Price: $45 rose and violet. Given time in 35% new French oak, nate is otherwise all about forested pine and earthy it’s structured and intriguing, with a tannic punch pungency, accented by a pretty floral tease of rose City Winery of New York 2013 Reserve Alder on the finish. —V.B. petal. High in acidity and tannin, it takes time in 89 Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mendocino). abv: 12.9% Price: $55 the glass to settle down and find its balance, with Made from a high-elevation, steeply sloped vine- a lengthy finish of black licorice and clove. —V.B. yard, this has complex aromas resembling cherries, Stemmler 2013 Ferguson Cuttings Pinot Noir abv: 14.5% Price: $70 coffee and rosemary. Flavors are mouthfilling, the 91 (Carneros). A new designation from the pro- texture is lightly tannic and lively, and the body me- ducer, made in tiny amounts, this wine is sourced Renteria 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- dium to full. —J.G. from vines on the Donum Ranch property grafted to 90 ley). Forest floor and fresh-dug earth form a abv: 13.5% Price: $38 cuttings from the Ferguson Vineyard. Cardamom, core around this wine’s crisp, clear hit of red cherry. dark plum and earthy black cherry mingle on the Buoyant acidity keeps it light and bright, with un- Francis Ford Coppola 2013 Votre Santé Pinot palate around medium-bodied, softly layered tex- fettered oak and tannin. —V.B. 89 Noir (California). For full review see page 14. ture and a medium length. A persistence of savory abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Best Buy. black pepper and black olive tease on the finish. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 —V.B. Small Vines 2013 MK Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 14.1% Price: $44 90 (Sonoma Coast). Wild strawberry and a Año Verde 2013 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara thicket of dense tannin belie a powerfully strong 88 County). This wine conveys cola, root beer, Stemmler 2013 Laura Pinot Noir (Russian Riv- and elusive wine, still very much tightly wound, dried strawberry and graphite aromas, with an in- 91 er Valley). A new, reserve-level wine from the indicative of the vintage. A portion (35%) of the triguing twist of curry spice. It’s rich on the palate producer’s estate Winside Vineyard, Laura is both grapes were whole-cluster pressed, from tight- with decent weight, showing Indian spice, pepper, floral and sauvage, spicy, dense and full-figured. spaced, low-yielding vines. A little more oak was star anise and tart yet juicy cranberry. —M.K. Blackberry compote and black-cherry pie come to used than in most of the producer’s other wines, abv: 14.5% Price: $20 mind through its intensity, while it ends packed in helping to impart a spicy finish. —V.B. tight-grained tannins. Drink now through 2023. abv: 13.2% Price: $72 Clos La Chance 2013 Erwin Vineyard Pinot Cellar Selection. —V.B. 88 Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Notes of cin- abv: 14.5% Price: $44 Stemmler 2013 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). namon and peppercorns adds complexity to the 90 One of three new wines for the producer in cranberry-pomegranate fruit and slate minerality Wedell Cellars 2011 Fiddlestix Vineyard The this vintage, this one is a blend from the Russian on the nose of this single-vineyard expression. It’s 91 Barn Find Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A little River Valley and Carneros estate ranches, Winside more reserved in its palate, which offers cranberry bit softer on the nose than the winery’s appellation and Lawler. Pleasurable from start to finish, it’s rich blend, this shows cola, candied purple fruit and

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tang with an herbal sagebrush quality, proving a re- no-thyme herbs and grippy plum skin tannins that way into the finish, along with a bit of pencil shav- liable, straightforward take on the grape. —M.K. last into a solid finish. —M.K. ings. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.2% Price: $30 abv: 14.1% Price: $40

Della 2013 Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- Twomey 2013 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Grayson Cellars 2014 Lot 5 Pinot Noir (Cali- 88 ley). This wine is tightly wound yet intense, 88 This easy-to-enjoy wine from the family of 86 fornia). This agreeable and affordable wine ripe and tart in cherry, rose and lush earth. Baking Silver Oak has lots of vanilla and fruit flavors and has cinnamon and cherry jelly aromas, fresh and spices make their way through the density of fruit, a broad but soft mouthfeel. Hints of cinnamon and light fruit flavors, medium body, and a soft texture. while the texture struggles to find balance. Let this red cherries come out on the palate and linger on —J.G. powerfully built wine open in the glass. —V.B. the finish. —J.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $13 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 13.8% Price: $50 Vinum 2014 V Series Pinot Noir (Monterey). Donkey & Goat 2014 Helluva Vineyard Pinot Waterstone 2012 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This 86 Cooked plums, ripe strawberries, cola and a 88 Noir (Anderson Valley). An effusive wine, 88 full-bodied wine has an elegant bouquet bit of clove make for an interesting nose on this bot- this shows potent, almost sweet aromas and opu- that invites, before pomegranate, plum and orange tling from a reliable and widely accessible producer. lent flavors with hints of mint and rosemary. It has peel figure in on the palate. Powerful on the finish, The palate shows slate, rust and pencil shavings as a medium body, fine tannins that add nicely to the it features hints of coconut and vanilla around the well as nutmeg and sour cranberries. —M.K. texture and a lingering finish. —J.G. leathery texture. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 13.4% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Butternut 2013 Pinot Noir (California). In Gainey 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Willowbrook 2013 Pinot Noir (Russian River 85 this wine, a red-black color and ripe, spicy 88 The nose on this widely available bottling 88 Valley). Light, clear and aromatically remi- aromas first grab the attention. Then cherry and is vivacious and juicy, with strawberry, strawberry niscent of pine, this smooth, soft wine offers spicy black plum flavors spill out of the firm and dramati- blossoms and raspberries laid across a pencil-lead acidity around integrated tannins and oak, finishing cally tannic texture. —J.G. frame. It tightens on the palate, with lots of graph- with a length of cinnamon. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $19 ite and pencil shavings, showing just a bit of pome- abv: 14.3% Price: $28 granate fruit. —M.K. Carol Shelton 2013 Larson Vineyard Pinot abv: 13.9% Price: $55 Husch 2012 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir (Ander- 85 Noir (Carneros). There’s a simplicity to this 87 son Valley). This wine from one of Anderson medium-bodied wine, which is high in acidity and Halleck 2013 Clone 828 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Valley’s pioneers has a lighter-than-usual color and basic in its fruit. Ripe black cherry and dried herb 88 Coast). Sanguine and velvety, this richly plenty of red cherry, raspberry and turned earth are along for the ride, atop leather and cola. A small derived wine made from one clone of Pinot Noir aromas. It offers low-level fruit flavors and good percentage of Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah is blend- is tannic in black cherry, cinnamon and tar, with a balance of acidity versus ripeness. —J.G. ed in. —V.B. lean, mid-length finish. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 abv: 14.2% Price: $30 abv: 14.3% Price: $58 Keller Estate 2013 El Coro Pinot Noir (Sonoma Educated Guess 2013 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Inception 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara 87 Coast). Sandalwood and a shovelful of fresh 85 Rich, dark and concentrated, this hearty red 88 County). Heady notes of gingerbread and earth mark the entry of this wine aromatically. A is somewhat reduced and grippy, with a layering of molasses mix with concentrated pomegranate, soft, tart expression of the variety, it offers bitter- wild strawberry and earth overlaid in solid oak. It’ll raspberry and slate on this pleasant nose. The pal- sweet tannin and dark cherry at its core. —V.B. appeal to fans of bigger-bodied wines. —V.B. ate tightens around iron and graphite with a dense abv: 14.2% Price: $52 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 hibiscus and pomegranate fruit character. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $28 Liberated 2013 Pinot Noir (Monterey Coun- FEL 2013 Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir (So- 87 ty). Black cherry, chipped slate and an 85 noma Coast). There’s an inkling of floral Keller Estate 2013 La Cruz Vineyard Pinot earthy nutmeg character show on the nose of this character on the nose of this otherwise robust, 88 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Pine forest and tart, stylishly labeled bottling. Medium in weight, it of- brooding and brawny vineyard-designate. It’s over- lean drops of cranberry, rhubarb and pomegranate fers energetic and tart cranberry-cherry flavors as whelmed by grippy tannins and a bitterness akin to combine for a complex, savory and compelling vine- well as a menthol element on the palate, which is tobacco. Along the way dark cherry and forest earth yard-designate. A strong presence of tannin marks tangy throughout and wipes up clean. —M.K. make an appearance—particularly pine and a whiff the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 of tar. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $45 abv: 14.3% Price: $65 Testarossa 2013 Cuvee Los Gatos Pinot Noir Renteria 2012 Pinot Noir (Los Carneros). 87 (Monterey County). Iron, pomegranate and Halleck 2010 The Farm Vineyards Pinot Noir 88 Mild tannin leads to integrated oak and a dust aromas show on the nose of this entry-level 85 (Russian River Valley). This wine was given burst of juicy red cherry and pomegranate, laced in bottling from the Los Gatos producer. Bright red quite a bit of time in bottle. It offers cranberry, ol- aromas of roses in this light-bodied wine. It finishes fruits and solid brown spice show on the palate that ive and a sanguine touch of dried cherry. Medium in quick and lean. —V.B. proves light, airy and easy as it dances across the weight and oak, it finishes with tart acidity. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $40 tongue with energy. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $67 abv: 14.1% Price: $27 Rusack 2013 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara Inception 2013 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). 88 County). The winery’s entry-level bottling, Wedell Cellars 2012 Wavertree Pinot Noir 85 Iron, raspberry and light cranberry notes this offers turned earth, juniper, cola and ripe red 87 (Sta. Rita Hills). Deep raspberry, plump greet the nose on this bottling. That sanguine ele- cherries on the nose. The cherries carry to the pal- cranberry and licorice show on the nose of this ment powers the palate as well, where iron and rust ate, where they meet with tangy cranberries, orega- well-constructed wine. A prominent cranberry meet with turned earth flavors. —M.K. spice hits the front of the palate and carries all the abv: 14.3% Price: $20

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Halleck 2013 Three Sons Cuvee Pinot Noir plex palate, which also shows turned earth and 84 (Russian River Valley). Reduced in a weight beef-jerky flavors. —M.K. ZINFANDEL of oak and tight tannins, this wine takes time to abv: 14.1% Price: $45 come around and develop any juiciness to the pal- Carol Shelton 2012 Florence Vineyard ate, offering a mix of red cherry and cranberry laced La Folia Winery 2012 (Sierra 92 Rocky Reserve Zinfandel (Rockpile). From in forest and spice. It finishes quick and lean. —V.B. 88 Foothills). This has a well-aged aroma plus a 1,400-foot-high site, this wine combines 86% abv: 14.3% Price: $45 tangy raspberry and cranberry flavors. It offers good Zinfandel with 14% Petite Sirah, which deliciously balance between flavor, crispness and firm tannins. exude blackberry, blueberry, kirsch and leather. Ramspur 2012 Otton Vineyards Pinot Noir Most of all, it conveys a personality that mirrors Smooth, soft and juicy, it adds nutmeg, chocolate 84 (Carneros). Baked bread and brown sugar this grape variety’s Italian roots. It’s dry, medium and oak as it goes, finishing with structure and make this a comforting wine in some sense. Simi- bodied and slightly astringent in texture. —J.G. length. Drink now through 2021. Cellar Selection. larly, the fruit follows a baked quality that makes it abv: 14.3% Price: $32 —V.B. taste bigger than it is. Meanwhile, herbal leanings abv: 14.8% Price: $35 betray the wine’s low level of alcohol. —V.B. Lusso Della Terra 2011 Sangiovese (Paso abv: 12.5% Price: $64 88 Robles). A showy nose of violet perfume Oso Libre 2012 Nativo Primitivo (Paso Ro- and grape candy emerges from this bottling. Simi- 92 bles). Blackberry fruit makes friends with Armanino Family Cellars 2013 The Ringneck lar flavors persist on the palate, along with a touch black earth, coffee syrup, dill and dried garden 83 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A generous body of licorice. The wine is not overly complex, but it’s herbs on this nuanced bottling. The palate blends and oak stand out most in this wine, which leans quite easy to quaff. —M.K. cherry cola with milk chocolate, and boisterous sour in tannin and bittersweet chocolate more than abv: 14.6% Price: $28 acidity with black rock minerality, finishing on a fruit. A forest-floor component keeps it savory, with cream-soda spritz. —M.K. a taste of yeasty bread. —V.B. Pianetta 2013 Sangiovese (Paso Robles). abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 14.3% Price: $55 88 Dried red raspberry and pomegranate fruits mix with a persistent leathery character and spicy Oso Libre 2012 Osezno Zinfandel (Paso Paro 2013 Cloud 9 Vineyards Pinot Noir (Rus- nutmeg on the nose of this wine. Cranberries and 92 Robles). From La Vista Vineyard in the Ad- 82 sian River Valley). Menthol and eucalyptus cooked berries show on the tart palate, which is elaida District, this strong bottling features cherry dominate over the indistinguishable fruit in this driven by graphite, minerals and slightly chunky candy, anise seed and mace on the nose. The palate full-bodied, thick wine. —V.B. tannins. —M.K. is wildly complex, blending vanilla, lavender and abv: 14.6% Price: $35 abv: 14.9% Price: $32 violet with boysenberry, blackberry and a kirsch character. —M.K. Paro 2013 Kaufman Sunnyslope Vineyard Koehler 2012 Sangiovese (Santa Ynez Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $27 82 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mountain). This oddly 87 Plum, slate and cherry blossoms show on the perfumed and quite tannic wine is hard to decipher nose of this wine, grown along the Foxen Canyon Peachy Canyon 2013 Clevenger Zinfandel in terms of fruit. It remains light bodied amid the corridor. Red fruit and hibiscus highlight the top of 92 (Paso Robles Willow Creek District). For full grip. —V.B. the sip, followed by brick minerality, bright acidity review see page 8. abv: 13.8% Price: $30 and a spice that leans toward anise. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $38 abv: 14.2% Price: $30 Ashokawna 2014 Pinot Noir (Russian River Carol Shelton 2011 Bastoni Vineyard Karma 81 Valley). An exceptionally young wine that Noceto 2012 Sangiovese (Amador County). 90 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). A field blend tastes like bacon and cherry syrup, this offers an 87 This medium-bodied, understated wine has of 85% Zinfandel, 11% and 4% overripe, concentrated and thick drink experience. a rather light red color with brown undertones. It Petite Sirah, this juicy, spicy wine is robust and full —V.B. offers subtle earthy and smoky aromas, tart fruit bodied. Blackberry syrup and black cherry combine abv: 13.5% Price: $17 flavors like cranberries, and an appropriately tannic around cinnamon and black pepper, finishing in a texture. While its flavors are subtle, the balance is wave of power. —V.B. great and this wine stayed fresh for three days after abv: 14.8% Price: $33 SANGIOVESE opening. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $18 Decoy 2013 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). For Rideau 2013 Camp 4 Vineyard Sangiovese 90 full review see page 11. 91 (Santa Ynez Valley). Dried strawberries, Terra d’Oro 2013 Sangiovese (Amador Coun- abv: 13.9% Price: $25 smashed plums, a hint of iron and a pleasant dusty 87 ty). Medium bodied and firm textured, this element combine for a sultry nose on this bottling. has smoke and white pepper aromas, rich tomato Papapietro Perry 2011 Zinfandel (Dry Creek It’s full and lush on the palate with bright raspber- and plum flavors, and light herbal accents. It offers 90 Valley). Blackberry and leather pouch jump ries, richer plum notes and a complex array of spice, moderate tannins and a smooth mouthfeel, with a from the glass from this full-bodied wine that stays from sagebrush to anise. It’s framed by bright acid- bit of tannic bite. —J.G. light on its feet despite the generous ripeness. Cin- ity and fine tannins that clean up quickly on the fin- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 namon, black pepper and black licorice round out ish. —M.K. the flavors, finishing soft and with length. —V.B. abv: 15.7% Price: $38 Chatom 2012 Sangiovese (Calaveras Coun- abv: 15.3% Price: $42 86 ty). Interesting and complex aromas sug- Feliz Noche 2011 Sangiovese (Santa Barbara gest new oak, tea, leather and red cherry. Tangy Perry Creek 2012 Altitude 2401 Fair Play 89 County). Concentrated rose petals, hibis- cranberry flavors and a crisp feel in the mouth make 90 Farms Zinfandel (El Dorado). This inviting cus and purple fruits meld with lava-rock aromas, this wine enjoyable in a lean style. —J.G. wine smells sweet and jammy. It tastes spicy, lightly all boosted by a touch of cola and smoke. Tart plum abv: 14.5% Price: $20 oaky and like ripe raspberries. Full bodied and high skins and Montgomery cherries play into the com- in alcohol, it’s also smooth in texture, mouthfill-

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ing and rich. Flavors like chocolate and blackberry a pretty wine, vibrant in white pepper and braised Eighty Four 2009 Petite Sirah (Napa Val- mark the finish. —J.G. meat. The nose is pure violet and blueberry, while 87 ley). Given four years in 100% new French abv: 15.2% Price: $25 the approach to the fruit is light-handed, with inte- oak and another year in bottle, this is a blockbuster grated tannins and a low oak imprint. Entirely vari- of a wine. It’s huge in every way, from its intensity Rock Wall 2012 Westphall Ridge Vineyard etal, it delves into earthy territory with elements of of coconut, vanilla and milk chocolate to its dense, 90 Zinfandel (Rockpile). A twist of clove, fig forest floor and dark chocolate. —V.B. chalky tannins. It may need time to come around, and chocolate figure into this powerful, concentrat- abv: 14.5% Price: $28 its sheer weight impressively wrapped in blackberry ed wine, with baked plum, tobacco and maple taking and blueberry jam. —V.B. on secondary roles. It’s full bodied and thick, so pair Robert Biale 2013 Royal Punishers Petite abv: 15.9% Price: $65 appropriately. It finishes in black pepper. —V.B. 93 Sirah (Rutherford). For full review see page abv: 14.8% Price: $45 6. Cellar Selection. Parducci 2012 True Grit Reserve Petite Sirah abv: 14.9% Price: $42 87 (Mendocino County). Showing earthy aro- Ironstone 2013 Rous Vineyard Reserve An- mas, very full body and impressive tannins, this 89 cient Vines Zinfandel (Lodi). So easy to en- Gustafson Family 2012 East Ridge Vineyard wine has flavors full of smoke, black pepper and joy, this mild-tasting but full-bodied wine is fruity 92 Estate Petite Sirah (Dry Creek Valley). Vio- blackberry. The thick, dry texture coats the mouth in flavor and soft in texture. It has an earthy, savory lets and white pepper intrude pleasantly on the with tannin and dark color. It’s a big wine, and aroma, generous plum and berry flavors, a mineral nose of this estate-grown wine, accented by 10% should taste great with dishes like slow-cooked ribs. influence, light tannins and a lingering finish. —J.G. Zinfandel. Layered and mischievously elegant de- —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 spite its size, it’s drinkable now, as satisfying as a abv: 14% Price: $20 piece of blueberry pie, and yet structured. It’s a fine Balletto 2012 Zinfandel (Russian River Val- wine to lie down, through 2022. Cellar Selection. Archival 2013 Juliana Vineyard Petite Sirah 88 ley). A bright and relatively light expres- —V.B. 85 (Napa Valley). Made from 100% varietal sion of the variety, this wine imparts more red abv: 15.2% Price: $28 grapes, this vineyard-designate offers minty eu- berry than black, with seasonings of cinnamon and calyptus and leather in a medium- to light-bodied nutmeg. Soft, smooth and unfussy, it retains solid Pianetta 2013 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). package, with streaky tannins and low oak. The acidity from start to finish, with a taste of vanilla 92 Tar and dense black currant fruit lie at the fruit is elusive behind the savory meat and flinty custard on the finish. —V.B. core of this wine’s nose, with a light raspberry tone gunpowder. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 on the edges, along with aromas of iced coffee and abv: 14.4% Price: $32 pressed violets. Soft blueberry and olallieberry fla- Graziano 2012 Old Vine Kazmet Vineyard Zin- vors sit at the tip of the palate, which gets thicker, 88 fandel (Redwood Valley). Well made, well toward espresso ice cream and fudge. —M.K. SYRAH rounded and well balanced, this medium-bodied abv: 15.2% Price: $34 wine has tasty fruit aromas and flavors. Spicy ac- Beckmen 2013 Purisima Mountain Vineyard cents accompany a firm, layered texture and lasting Proulx 2013 Petite Sirah (Central Coast). 93 Syrah (Ballard Canyon). Rich and layered on finish. —J.G. 92 Black pepper, blackberry and beef char give the nose, this wine shows peppercorn, bacon fat and abv: 14.5% Price: $28 a savory style to this bottling, which also has lighter blackberry jam aromas. It is full and soft on the pal- touches of violets and other purple flowers. The pal- ate, with deeply rich yet still a tad tart boysenberry Peachy Canyon 2013 Westside Zinfandel ate shows espresso laid across ripe blueberry fruit and elderberry fruit as well as an asphalt-driven 88 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 13. that carries through the sip, framed by strong but grip. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 judicious tannins, and spiced with a dill-tarragon abv: 15.1% Price: $32 character. —M.K. Proulx 2012 Willow Creek Farm Zinfandel abv: 14.5% Price: $46 Falcone 2013 Syrah (Paso Robles). A juicy 88 (Paso Robles). Stewed plums and straw- 92 and smoky nose of black cherries, vanilla, berries partner with lilacs, sagebrush and hard cin- Counter Punch 2013 Petite Sirah (Paso Ro- smoked pork and teriyaki is lifted aromatically by namon candy on the nose of this bottling, which is 90 bles). For full review see page 11. pretty violet elements on the nose of this bottling. boosted by 12% Grenache, 7% Syrah and 6% Petite abv: 14.5% Price: $40 The palate centers on a blackberry-jam character, Sirah. Juicy, rich cherry and blueberry flavors meet with roasted fennel and black-licorice candy adding with a rocky, black-slate character on the palate. Varozza 2010 Estate Grown Petite Sirah (St. quality spice. —M.K. —M.K. 90 Helena). An inky-black, syrupy-thick wine abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.9% Price: $40 from 60-year-old head-trained vines, this fills the palate with a taste of blueberry cobbler aside a slab Kaleidos 2012 Praying Mantis Syrah (Paso Brophy Clark 2013 Whale Rock VIneyard of bacon, a mix of both savory and sweet. Rich and 92 Robles). Bursting with boysenberry and 87 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Cherry blossoms, ripe, it finishes awash in strong black coffee, ready olallieberry, this wine by Steve Martell gains com- strawberries and wet asphalt elements show on the to stow away in the cellar through 2020. Cellar Se- plexity with aromas of slate, asphalt and dark choc- nose of this wine from a property along Vineyard lection. —V.B. olate. A sizzle of acidity entertains the tongue, along Drive in West Paso. A nice cola zest starts the pal- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 with dark flavors of dried berries, black pepper- ate, which lands on cherries and ripe cranberries corns and purple flowers. A tart plum-skin element before fading away. —M.K. Siot 2013 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). Fresh- leads the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $26 88 pressed blackberry aromas leap out of the abv: 15.8% Price: $48 glass of this wine, along with asphalt and a touch of purple flowers. The palate is a study of density and Red Car 2011 Estate Vineyard Syrah (Fort PETITE SIRAH thickness, with black plums, coffee and espresso 92 Ross-Seaview). A shock of white pepper re- showing most out of the deep, black flavors. —M.K. mains memorable throughout this wine, which hails Gustafson Family 2011 East Ridge Vineyard abv: 14.9% Price: $40 from a high-elevation vineyard overlooking the Pa- 93 Estate Petite Sirah (Dry Creek Valley). This is cific Ocean. Pinot Noir-like in its leanness and silky

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 mouthfeel, it’s prickly with feral jolts of cinnamon Black licorice, dark plum and saddle wrap around Epiphany 2012 Hampton Vineyard Syrah and tobacco. —V.B. tightly wound, powerful tannins and a pronounced 88 (Santa Barbara County). Asphalt and pen- abv: 12.7% Price: $55 minerality. Drink now through 2023. Cellar Selec- cil-lead minerality meet with damp forest floor, tion. —V.B. plum and beef carpaccio aromas on this Fess Parker Rusack 2013 Estate Reserve Syrah (Ballard abv: 14.5% Price: $75 family bottling from a historic vineyard. The flavors 92 Canyon). In this wine, a very elegant combi- are quite intriguing if a tad funky, with black pep- nation of lilacs and plush blackberry jam is lifted by Red Car 2011 Syrah (Sonoma Coast). The per, sour sumac, pencil lead and plenty of earthy black pepper, allspice and more baking spices. It has 91 majority of the grapes for this lithe, elegant must. —M.K. a great mix of energetic acidity, soft mouthfeel and wine come from the Zio Tony Vineyard, with the abv: 14.1% Price: $35 firm tannic structure on the palate, with flavors of remainder from Red Car Estate. Cool-climate in fudge, cola, elderberry and oregano toward the fin- its high-toned acidity and delicate features of rose VGS 2012 Syrah (Mount Veeder). Softly flo- ish. —M.K. and lavender, it’s smooth, soft and vibrantly shaken 88 ral and sculpted in red berry and leather, abv: 14.2% Price: $40 with white pepper, a classic call-out to the North- this extracted and somewhat reduced wine may ern Rhône. —V.B. need time in the glass, if not the bottle, to open. The Sonkin Cellars 2012 Persona Syrah (Santa abv: 12.5% Price: $38 brawnier tendencies reign in full dominance and 92 Barbara County). Ohio-based attorney and weight. —V.B. wine writer Loren Sonkin made this solid wine. Sequoia Grove 2012 Syrah (Napa Valley). For abv: 14.9% Price: $75 It shows hot asphalt on the nose alongside purple 91 full review see page 10. Cellar Selection. flowers, condensed black fruit and fig-laced balsam- abv: 14.2% Price: $40 Brecon Estate 2013 Syrah (Central Coast). ic vinegar. The palate offers black cherry and black- 87 There’s a slightly tart funkiness of tar, dried berry, both ripe and tart, with Sichuan peppercorn, Burgess 2012 Estate Vineyards Syrah (Napa violets, dried strawberries, marjoram and sour smoked beef and a bit of savory soy sauce. —M.K. 90 Valley). For full review see page 11. —V.B. plums on the nose of this wine. The palate is also abv: 14.3% Price: $46 abv: 14.6% Price: $36 tart with elderberry, opening toward dark herbs in the midpalate, hanging on a very dense structure. Zinke 2012 Thompson Vineyard Syrah (Santa Eleven Eleven 2013 Estate Syrah (Oak Knoll —M.K. 92 Barbara County). Thick blackberry syrup 90 District). For full review see page 11. abv: 14.5% Price: $39 and loads of black pepper meet with dashes of as- abv: 15% Price: $55 phalt and dried violets on the nose of this wine from Rideau 2013 Estate Syrah (Santa Ynez Val- a vineyard near Los Alamos. The palate combines Rusack 2013 Estate Syrah (Ballard Canyon). 86 ley). Dried black cherries, a hint of purple plum-skin tartness and rustic elderberry with cedar 90 Plump blueberries, slate, gravel, turned flowers and a touch of tar show on the closed nose and juniper berries, a pleasant blend of wood and earth and a light fennel character show on this wine, of this wine. The palate is also extremely wound up fruit. —M.K. which comes in a custom bottle exclusive to the ap- at this stage, with hints of espresso and dark choco- abv: 16.5% Price: $45 pellation’s estate-grown . The palate shows a late. Although the structure is impressive, it does lively acidity that briskly expresses the black pep- not allow much flavor to escape right now. —M.K. Gustafson Family 2012 Logging Road Vineyard per, black currant and espresso flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $44 91 Estate Syrah (Dry Creek Valley). Tobacco and abv: 14.2% Price: $29 tar stand out in this densely packed, robustly built estate, 100% varietal wine. Full bodied, it’s a study Brave & Maiden 2012 Estate Limited Syrah GRENACHE in dark chocolate and smoked meats, wrapped in 89 (Santa Ynez Valley). Woody blackberries oak and black pepper. There’s some serious power meet with freshly plucked violets and lilacs on the Kobler 2013 Campbell McKinney Vineyard to this wine. —V.B. snappy nose of this wine. The palate shows very tart 90 Grenache (Russian River Valley). Big red abv: 15.4% Price: $32 berry fruit, but is driven more so by the asphalt and fruit embraces chewy, integrated tannins in this peppercorn elements. —M.K. vineyard-designate, a full-bodied explosion of ripe- Jason-Stephens 2011 Estate Select Syrah abv: 14.8% Price: $65 ness and bold expression. While powerful, it holds 91 (Santa Clara Valley). For full review see page on to nuance via streaks of high-toned citrus, al- 10. Vie Winery 2012 Thompson Vineyard Syrah lowing the wine room to breathe and remain light- abv: 15.3% Price: $36 89 (Santa Barbara County). There’s a lot of hearted. —V.B. slate minerality on the nose of this bottling, along- abv: 14.6% Price: $34 Longboard 2013 Ledbetter Family Vineyard side bright and fresh boysenberry fruit and a pine- 91 Syrah (Russian River Valley). A 100% varietal needle character. The palate is tart with plum skin Quivira 2013 Wine Creek Ranch Grenache wine, this comes from a property formerly known and grippy tannins, well balanced and also showing 90 (Dry Creek Valley). This is a producer al- as the Preston Ranch, with which the producer just the right amount of barnyard funk. —M.K. ways to consider for Rhône-styled wines. A mix of has worked for a long time. The wine coaxes silky- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 strawberry pie and Nilla wafer, this 100% varietal smooth, leathery tannins into a sinewy texture wine is robust and full bodied. Structured with bounded by meat, cigar and decadent amounts of Vie Winery 2012 White Hawk Vineyard Syrah plenty of tangy acidity, it’ll stand up to cellaring or a white pepper. Complex and layered, it’ll sit well in 89 (Santa Barbara County). Black olive, boy- decant. Drink now through 2021. Cellar Selection. the cellar, through 2023. Cellar Selection. —V.B. senberry, graphite and cracked pepper season up —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $49 a slightly gamy nose on this bottling from a popu- abv: 14.7% Price: $32 lar Los Alamos vineyard. The flavors are a study Longboard 2013 Savage Coast Syrah (Russian of blackness, with peppercorns, asphalt and deep Mounts 2012 Estate Grown Grenache (Dry 91 River Valley). From two vineyard sites and purple fruits that are both dark and tart, all framed 88 Creek Valley). Cherry-vanilla surrounds a given thimblefuls of Grenache, Petite Sirah, Cari- by a boisterous acidity. —M.K. flank of big oak, while classic notes of baked straw- gnane, Malbec and Zinfandel, this wine is an ode abv: 14.5% Price: $45 berry also come into play. A brawny, full-bodied to the winemaker’s lifelong obsession with , expression of the variety, given 6% Mourvèdre and with a nod to the wildness of the California coast.

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6% Syrah, it has good bones and acidity lurking be- Longboard 2013 DaKine Vineyard Merlot Happy Canyon Vineyard 2011 Barrack Family neath the power. —V.B. 88 (Russian River Valley). From the producer’s 94 Estate X Ten-Goal (Happy Canyon of Santa abv: 15.2% Price: $34 estate vineyard, the grapes planted on budwood Barbara). For full review see page 4. from Napa Valley’s famous Three Palms, this wine is abv: 14.1% Price: $78 Noble Tree 2014 Grenache (Russian River bittersweet in tannin and flavor, a mix of blueberry, 86 Valley). Granted, this is a young wine, but cedar, resin and clove. Full bodied in style, it main- Leto 2012 The Hidden One Estate Grown on first impression it imparts a raw, burly earthi- tains an elegance on the finish, marked irresistibly 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). For full ness that’s hard to completely embrace, with a sense in dark chocolate. —V.B. review see page 4. of cooked mushrooms and sour cherry around soft, abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 light-bodied tannins. Give it plenty of air. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $23 Cartlidge & Browne 2013 Merlot (North Spring Mountain Vineyard 2012 Elivette 87 Coast). Spicy, oaky aromas grab attention, 94 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 5. followed by black plum and cherry flavors and a firm Cellar Selection. MERLOT structure of tannins and acidity. This is full bodied abv: 14.2% Price: $150 and rather powerful in both flavor and mouthfeel. Rocca 2012 Grigsby Vineyard Merlot (Yount- —J.G. Beaulieu Vineyard 2012 Clone 4 Cabernet 92 ville). A burly, full-bodied, high-octane abv: 13.5% Price: $13 93 Sauvignon (Rutherford). Aiming to high- wine, this is brooding in dark plum, chocolate, light one Cab clone grown in the dusty soils of the black peppercorns and thickly rolled cigar. Showing Murphy-Goode 2012 Merlot (California). appellation, this well-crafted wine remains tight in off the vintage’s power and warm weather, it starts 86 Tasty plum and red cherry flavors and an grippy tannins for the meantime. Just enough com- ripe and ends ripe, a celebration of Napa Valley sun. easygoing texture make this medium-bodied wine pelling notes of cedar, grenadine, red cherry and —V.B. a pleasure to drink. The aromas are quite fruity truffle hit the palate to suggest further aging. Drink abv: 15.3% Price: $55 and fresh, accented with oaky, spicy notes, and the from 2017–2027. Cellar Selection. —V.B. flavors seem generous. A touch of tannin provides abv: 15.4% Price: $145 Kimmel 2012 Merlot (Mendocino County). welcome structure. —J.G. 91 Opulent fruit flavors and an almost thick tex- abv: 13.9% Price: $15 Davies 2012 Round Pond Vineyards Cabernet ture make this delicious and dramatic. The aromas 93 Sauvignon (Rutherford). Softly approach- pop with blackberry and cherry, flavors resemble Tortoise Creek 2012 The Revivalist Merlot able and delicious, this 100% varietal wine from blueberry juice and the mouthfeel is rich and nicely 86 (Clarksburg). This medium-bodied wine the middle of Rutherford is juicy in red plum and tannic. —J.G. has aromas that suggest strawberry jam and maple cherry, with a trace of wild vanilla. Elegant tannin abv: 14.5% Price: $38 syrup, and equally fruity and ripe flavors. Touches and integrated oak keep it fresh and vibrant in the of vanilla and chocolate add a bit of unctuous com- glass, with just the tiniest amount of grip on the Dark Horse 2013 Merlot (California). Com- plexity, and the mouthfeel is velvety. —J.G. finish. Drink now through 2022.Cellar Selection. 90 plexity and varietal character come through abv: 13.4% Price: $12 —V.B. in this concentrated, well-balanced and smoothly abv: 14.7% Price: $80 polished wine. It is full bodied and lightly tannic, Leese-Fitch 2013 Merlot (California). Aro- but so oozing with flavors that it’s still easy to sip. 85 mas like brown sugar and bourbon meet Diamond Creek 2012 Fortieth Anniversary The array of black plum, light sage, and black olive bold oaky, spicy flavors in this medium-bodied 93 Red Rock Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon (Dia- flavors is accented with very light oak.Best Buy. wine. This will be good for fans of those exotic oak mond Mountain District). Soft and smooth in crisp —J.G. flavors. —J.G. red fruit, this block-designation wine has a nutty abv: 13.6% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 component around a thickness of tannin that sug- gests further aging. Medium bodied and graceful, it Frey 2013 Estate Grown Biodynamic Merlot Buena Vista 2012 Merlot (Carneros). Made offers pronounced minerality and an almost dusty 90 (Mendocino). This bold wine has a very 84 in a relatively light-bodied, soft style, this taste of rock itself. Cellar through 2022. Cellar Se- dark color and fresh, concentrated blackberry aro- wine has a weedy, herbal element at its heart, and lection. —V.B. mas. Generous berry and black pepper flavors seem could use more fruit to balance out. It ends in a abv: 14.1% Price: $200 to saturate the taste buds, leading to a lingering taste of bittersweet chocolate and espresso. —V.B. fruit and spice finish. The texture is almost viscous, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Gundlach Bundschu 2012 Vintage Reserve as lots of fine tannins add grip. It’s the rare wine 93 (Sonoma Valley). A Cabernet Sauvignon- with no added sulfites. —J.G. dominant mixture with 11% Cabernet Franc, 3% abv: 13.8% Price: $20 CABERNETS & BLENDS Petit Verdot and 1% Malbec, this powerfully gen- erous wine has a thread of classic black olive and Padis 2011 Merlot (Napa Valley). For full re- Diamond Creek 2012 Fortieth Anniversary dried herb that provides a restrained edge. Tightly 90 view see page 12. 94 Volcanic Hill Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond woven tannin and oak give added strength and abv: 14.5% Price: $65 Mountain District). A waft of leather saddle opens structure. —V.B. this release from an historic Diamond Mountain abv: 14.9% Price: $100 Montevina 2013 Omira Hills Merlot (Cali- site celebrating 40 years of wines with this vin- 89 fornia). Lots of dark-fruit flavor, an ul- tage. Soft and refined, it’s a complex expression of Happy Canyon Vineyard 2011 Piocho (Happy trasmooth texture and a lingering finish raise this cassis, black currant and mountain tannins, well 93 Canyon of Santa Barbara). For full review medium-bodied and value-priced wine well above integrated and age-worthy. The finish is lengthy in see page 6. average. Black cherry and blackcurrant flavors are a touch of coffee. Drink now through 2022.Cellar abv: 14.1% Price: $32 sprinkled with spices recalling nutmeg and carda- Selection. —V.B. mom. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $200 Happy Canyon Vineyard 2010 Piocho Reserve abv: 13.7% Price: $10 93 (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Oodles of aromas jump out of this blend of 70% Cabernet

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Franc, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 3% Parallel 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- Kenefick Ranch 2012 Pickett Road Red (Calis- Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec. The nose suggests 92 ley). For full review see page 8. 91 toga). A blend driven predominantly by Petit blackberry jelly, just-cracked peppercorn, cola, Dr abv: 15% Price: $72 Verdot, with lesser percentages of Merlot and Cab- Pepper, cedar and dusty woods. The palate is lively ernet Franc, this wine is soft and spicy, with waves with wild berries and stewed prunes, framed by a Raymond 2012 District Collection Caber- of blackberry flavor. Brightly balanced, it finishes strong tannic structure, with more peppercorns and 92 net Sauvignon (Rutherford). Cherry-berry in a mix of cola and clove, the tannins well under dill freshness. —M.K. crumble topped with vanilla cream gives this wine control. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $39 a brambly, succulent quality, dusted in light cin- abv: 14.9% Price: $50 namon spice, cedar and well-integrated tannin and Padis 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- oak. Powerful and full-bodied, it’s fruity, balanced Louis M. Martini 2012 Lot No. 1 Cabernet Sau- 93 ley). For full review see page 6. and enjoyable now. —V.B. 91 vignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page abv: 14.8% Price: $95 abv: 14.5% Price: $85 10. abv: 15.1% Price: $145 Brave & Maiden 2013 Estate Cabernet Sau- William Hill Estate 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon 92 vignon (Santa Ynez Valley). This wine’s 92 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 9. Michael Mondavi Family Estate 2012 Emblem vividly layered nose blends dusty garden herbs of Cellar Selection. 91 Oso Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- oregano and marjoram with hints of chile pepper, abv: 14.8% Price: $45 ley). Bittersweet at first, with sizable tannins, this wet concrete and plum skins. The palate is supple Cab also contains smaller amounts of Syrah, Petite and complex, showing dynamic spices and herbs, B Side 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- Sirah, Zinfandel, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Red and cut olives, savory meats and pipe smoke, much like 91 ley). For full review see page 9. black berries give it a juicy palate atop dusty, chalky a Middle Eastern tagine. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 tannins and a richness of leather and clove on the abv: 14.9% Price: $45 finish. —V.B. Castello di Amorosa 2012 Morisoli-Borges abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Davies 2012 Winfield Vineyard Cabernet 91 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). 92 Sauvignon (Calistoga). The producer’s first For full review see page 9. Michael Mondavi Family Estate 2011 Animo release from this vineyard site, and 100% varietal, abv: 14.5% Price: $195 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). From the this is a sultry wine, generously aromatic in cinna- producer’s monumental Atlas Peak vineyard, this is mon and clove. Spicy, soft and elegant, it also offers Chateau St. Jean 2012 Cinq Cépages (Sonoma a tightly wound, solidly constructed mountain Cab, cassis and currant, finishing in earthy waves that 91 County). For full review see page 9. Cellar Se- blended with a handful of Petit Verdot. Tobacco, end lean. —V.B. lection. black tea and a sliver of coconut intermingle around abv: 14.7% Price: $80 abv: 14.4% Price: $80 a medium-bodied whole that will benefit from cel- laring, through 2021. Cellar Selection. —V.B. Happy Canyon Vineyard 2011 Barrack Brand Diamond Creek 2012 Fortieth Anniversary abv: 14.3% Price: $85 92 (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Blackber- 91 Gravelly Meadow Cabernet Sauvignon (Dia- ry paste and a slightly more tangy red fruit mix with mond Mountain District). Leather saddle and choco- Oso Libre 2011 Reserva (Paso Robles). This cocoa dust, Middle Eastern spice, leather and black late overlay a juicy midpalate of cassis, blackberry 91 blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon and 36% rocks on the nose of this blend of 83% Merlot, 5% and dried herb that’s soft and supple on the palate. Merlot is focused on cedar, crushed dried herbs and Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Tightly wound, time in the bottle should do won- cracked, hot blacktop aromas, but also shows blue- Verdot and 3% Malbec. Tangy but ripe plum juice ders to tame the tight oak and tannin, and temper berry and boysenberry fruit on the nose. The savory mixes with lifting spearmint and dill herbals on the the powerful finish. Cellar through 2022.Cellar Se- palate coincides, with pencil lead, dried sagebrush palate. —M.K. lection. —V.B. and juniper, oregano and thyme and the ever-so- abv: 14.1% Price: $42 abv: 14.1% Price: $200 slight hint of dried New Mexico chile. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $42 Kenefick Ranch 2012 Chris’s Cuvée Estate Eagle Glen 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 92 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga). For 91 Valley). From a multiplicity of vineyards, PreVail 2012 Back Forty Cabernet Sauvignon full review see page 7. this wine works and is a tremendous value for the 91 (Alexander Valley). Smoky cigar and toffee abv: 15.1% Price: $65 price. It mixes hot mulled-cider spices, cinnamon, caramel hit the high notes in this soft, thick and clove and pine forest, conveying surprising depth. rich reserve-level wine, sure to please fans of a full- Lobo 2012 Wulff Vineyards Cabernet Sau- Plum, dark cherry and more clove lead to a power- bodied, generously layered style. Blackberry and 92 vignon (Napa Valley). From the Oak Knoll ful, leathery finish. —V.B. blueberry jam provide the fruit to match the savory District and estate-grown fruit, this 100% varietal abv: 13.8% Price: $22 elements. —V.B. wine has a substantial amount of vanilla and cherry abv: 14.8% Price: $90 at its heart. Medium bodied, structured and soft, it Franciscan 2012 Magnificat Meritage (Napa retains fine-grained tannins that should mellow in 91 Valley). A red Meritage driven by 73% Cab- Pride Mountain 2012 Reserve Claret (Sonoma the cellar, through 2022. Cellar Selection. —V.B. ernet Sauvignon, this structured, full-bodied wine 91 County-Napa County). Candied ginger and abv: 14.5% Price: $58 also blends in 19% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and licorice mark this dense, ripe Claret that offers 3% Malbec. Blackberry and chocolate accent chalky subtle oak on the palate. Full bodied and robust, Oso Libre 2007 Grande (Paso Robles). Quite tannins, with bold hits of black licorice, cassis, pen- with layers of graphite, leather and dark chocolate, 92 youthful for its advanced age, this bottling cil and black tea. Drink now through 2020. Cellar the 66% Merlot come from the producer’s Lower shows crushed herbs, ground coffee, dense blue- Selection. —V.B. Mountain Top vineyard block and the 29% Cab- berries, leathery smoked meats and tobacco on abv: 14.5% Price: $50 ernet Sauvignon from its Rock Arch block. The re- the nose. The palate conveys tangy boysenberries maining 5% is Petit Verdot. —V.B. with black pepper and crushed herbs, laid across a Galerie 2012 Latro Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.9% Price: $135 smooth tannic structure. —M.K. 91 (Knights Valley). For full review see page 9. abv: 14.5% Price: $27 abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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Provenance Vineyards 2012 Barrel Select Cab- clove and dark chocolate, this bottle-aged, full- nins, soft layers of caramelized oak and a brightness 91 ernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). A juiciness of bodied wine is impressive and still quite ripe and of fruit and acidity. —V.B. cherry and vanilla spark the opening of this wine, robust. The tannins are prominent and supported abv: 14.5% Price: $38 a celebration of the vintage, appellation and in this by a girth of oak, with a dense, concentrated finish. case, fruit-forwardness of the variety. With a back- —V.B. Salvestrin 2012 Salvestrin Estate Vineyard bone of oak and cedar, it has smooth tannins and abv: 15% Price: $95 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Mouth- medium weight, finishing in mocha chocolate. Drink coating, this is a full-bodied wine with small now through 2022. Cellar Selection. —V.B. Jamie Slone Wines 2012 Cabernet Sauvi- amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Tar, leather, abv: 14.9% Price: $60 90 gnon (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). cedar and black cherry stand out as characteris- This bottling offers plum and plump blackberry on tics, with added weight from the heavier, darker Raymond 2012 District Collection Cabernet the nose along with milk chocolate, leather and ce- elements of chocolate and oak. Drink now through 91 Sauvignon (St. Helena). Sweetened tannins dar. It’s quite tight and tannic on the palate at first, 2022. Cellar Selection. —V.B. highlight a depth of chocolate and blackberry in this but all the expected and delicious components are abv: 14.8% Price: $64 100% varietal wine made in small amounts. Soft in place: tart blueberry, tobacco, coffee and hints of and juicy, it crafts a balance of richness and density licorice and chocolate that will emerge emerge more Ascension Cellars 2011 Ascendance Cass around elegant spicy clove and cinnamon. —V.B. with time. —M.K. 89 Vineyard (Paso Robles). Smoked beef, tart abv: 14.5% Price: $85 abv: 13.5% Price: $65 and tangy boysenberry jelly, black rocks and a ci- gar-box scent power the nose of this wine from an Spring Mountain Vineyard 2012 Cabernet Sau- Laurel Glen 2013 Counterpoint Cabernet award-winning vineyard. The palate offers ample 91 vignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 90 Sauvignon (Sonoma Mountain). A blend juicy tang along with chewy tannins, with dark 10. of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon with 15% Merlot, this chocolate, black cherry, and black olive enlivening abv: 14.1% Price: $75 was built to be approachable young. Grapes are the mouth. —M.K. sourced from an estate, organically farmed vineyard abv: 14% Price: $56 Ascencion 2012 Soul Shaker Cass Vineyard as well as two neighboring properties, Pickberry and 90 (Paso Robles). Vanilla, black-cherry soda Murray Ranch. Tobacco forms around a juiciness of Crossbarn Paul Hobbs 2012 Cabernet Sauvi- and a berry crème brûlée character combine for a blackberry and raspberry, giving it a sultry edge, 89 gnon (Napa Valley). Leather, pencil shav- very playful and fun nose on this bottling. The pal- while maintaing soft tannins throughout. —V.B. ings and cedar provide an edge to this wine. It’s oth- ate tightens up that fun a bit but stays sexy, offering abv: 14.1% Price: $40 erwise soft and approachable in a mix of blackberry dark chocolate, red-berry jam and a shred of mint. and black cherry, a seasoning of cinnamon and clove —M.K. Leto 2012 The Hidden One Exceptional Se- providing a pleasant hit of spice on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $64 90 lection Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). abv: 14.5% Price: $50 A minuscule amount of this wine is made, coming Azari 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ruther- from 45-year-old vines. Ripe, dense and dusty red Lake & Vine 2012 Single Vineyard Cabernet 90 ford). Cherry-berry and vanilla surround and black berries combine against soft, approach- 89 Sauvignon (Red Hills Lake County). For full a soft, spicy core of high-toned red fruit. Mellowed able layers of integrated tannin and oak, finishing review see page 13. with age, the tannins linger in perceived sweetness. with leather and cigar. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $100 abv: 13.8% Price: $125 Oso Libre 2011 Quixotic Cabernet Sauvignon Louis M. Martini 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon 89 (Paso Robles). Pressed berries, plum flesh, Cornerstone 2012 Michael’s Cuvée Cabernet 90 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 12. toasted cherry pits and a charred cedar scent carry 90 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.4% Price: $38 the nose of this bottling by a producer in Paso’s gnon is blessed with 9% Merlot, coming together Adelaida region. It’s quite easy going down, with in a seamlessly rich wine intense in dark chocolate, Mathew Bruno 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon flavors of cracked pepper, blackberry fruit and a coconut and vanilla. Soft, the tannins are integrated 90 (Napa Valley). Sourced from the southeast- vanilla-licorice combo toward the finish. —M.K. and the juiciness of the fruit concentrated, finishing ern section of the Rutherford appellation and 100% abv: 14.5% Price: $43 with more of that rich taste of chocolate. —V.B. varietal, this is a seamlessly made wine, luxuri- abv: 14.9% Price: $75 ous in cherry pie and leather saddle. Tangy acidity The Winery SF 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon meets the dusty tannins head-on, finishing with a 89 (North Coast). This is a classic style of Cab- Eleven Eleven 2012 Laki’s Vineyard Estate burst of orange zest. —V.B. ernet that should improve with age. It smells like 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak Knoll District). abv: 14.4% Price: $100 pencil shavings, tobacco and cedar, and tastes like For full review see page 12. dark chocolate and black cherry, while feeling very abv: 15% Price: $111 Raymond 2012 Estate Collection Cabernet firm on the palate. It has fine-grained tannins, and a 90 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Dark plum and lingering dark chocolate and cherry finish. It will be Forefathers 2012 Lone Tree Vineyard Cab- milk chocolate are the stars of this chalky, soft wine, best after 2018. —J.G. 90 ernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Wine- almost entirely varietal, with a splash of Petit Ver- abv: 14.3% Price: $25 maker Nick Goldschmidt does wonders with this dot. Integrated oak helps make it approachable and consistent vineyard source, coaxing out mocha- fruit-forward, while the finish is subtle in fireplace Crossbarn Paul Hobbs 2012 Cabernet Sau- chocolate, black cherry and blackberry, never over- smoke. —V.B. 88 vignon (Sonoma County). An inaugural re- powering an earthy back note of tobacco. Medium- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 lease for the producer, this wine holds a treasure bodied and soft, it finishes in a swirl of smoke and is trove of dense chocolate, raspberry, toasted oak and juicy and enjoyable now. —V.B. Raymond 2012 Reserve Selection Cabernet graham cracker. It’s concentrated, big-bodied and abv: 14.3% Price: $50 90 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Succulent in red juicy. The finish is marked by clove and cedar, with cherry and cassis, this wine has a surprising level of a slight touch of anise. —V.B. Gallo Estate 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon depth and grip. It finds its way with integrated tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 90 (Northern Sonoma). Sanguine in red plum,

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Lobo 2012 Wulff Vineyards Cabernet Sau- Delectus 2012 Knight Vision (Knights Valley). tannins give just enough texture to support this 88 vignon (Atlas Peak). From 100% estate- 87 Rich chocolate and raspberry purée high- medium-bodied wine. —J.G. grown fruit, this 100% varietal wine is dusty and light this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% abv: 13% Price: $14 dark with elements of pencil shavings, cedar and Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. High in alcohol, it cassis. With that herbal and earthy intensity giving tastes powerful and a bit bittersweet, with dusty, Silver Palm 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (North it defined character, it remains medium bodied and chalky tannins. —V.B. 86 Coast). Jammy aromas, figgy flavors and a textured on the palate, with a saltiness to the fin- abv: 15.8% Price: $45 very smooth mouthfeel define this medium-bodied ish. —V.B. and straightforward wine. Without much of the typ- abv: 13.7% Price: $80 Kenefick Ranch 2012 Caitlin’s Select Cabernet ical tannins, it’s easy on the palate. —J.G. 87 Franc (Calistoga). Estate grown, this wine abv: 13.7% Price: $19 Madrigal 2012 Nuestra Sangre (Napa Val- offers a density of blueberry and clove aromatically 88 ley). From estate-grown Merlot (78%), and in terms of flavor. It also has a tightness of tan- Angel’s Cup 2013 Vineyard Selection Caber- Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine nin and rustic elements of dried herb and leather. 85 net Sauvignon (California). This wine has is shy on the nose and full bodied in flavor, offering Powerfully concentrated, the floral aromatics are a slightly lighter color than usual, aromas that re- ripe, fleshy blackberry, tar and espresso. —V.B. hidden somewhat by the richness of the fruit. —V.B. semble black plums and red cherries, and similar abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 15.4% Price: $50 flavors. It is medium bodied, moderately tannic in texture and a good choice for a large crowd. —J.G. Midnight 2012 Nebula Cabernet Sauvignon Moniker 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 88 (Paso Robles). Black cherry, blueberry jam, 87 docino). Lots of dark-fruit aromas and fresh volcanic rocks, river stones and a mace spice show cherry-berry flavors keep this medium-bodied wine Kimmel 2013 Four Blocks Collection Cabernet on the nose of this wine. The palate is thick with lively and easy to enjoy. Light spicy, nutty flavors 85 Sauvignon (Mendocino). This wine shows black fruit and dark chocolate, the tannins showing and a touch of milk chocolate add interest, while the unusual floral, clove and sage aromas. Flavors re- lots of structure and flavors of purple flowers giving texture is smooth. —J.G. sembling boysenberry and black pepper come with depth. It needs more time in the bottle to reach full abv: 13.5% Price: $30 a medium-full body and firm tannins. It’s atypical potential. —M.K. for the variety but a good red wine. —J.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $44 Mount Veeder 2012 Reserve (Mount Veeder). abv: 14.1% Price: $12 87 This wine is made from a majority of Cab- Outlander 2013 Meritage (Paso Robles). For ernet Sauvignon, with tiny additions of Merlot, Kirkland Signature 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon 88 full review see page 14. Best Buy. Malbec and Petit Verdot. A minty, menthol streak is 85 (Stags Leap District). Chalky tannins make abv: 13.5% Price: $9 strong on the nose, veering into almost eucalyptus, for a mouthcoating entry into this powerfully rich, while dried herb and a shot of gunpowder provide dense and concentrated wine from the well-known Picayune 2012 Padlock (Napa Valley). In additional savory aromas and flavors. Big tannins region. All is surrounded by a trove of ripe black- 88 this soft, elegant mix of almost 75% Merlot need time in the glass to mellow. —V.B. berry fruit, clove and bittersweet chocolate. —V.B. with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, briny abv: 14.5% Price: $90 abv: 14.6% Price: $20 black olive finds balance against softly restrained layers of black cherry and cassis. The finish is dust- Rotta 2013 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Lawer Family 2012 Hooker Old Boys Cabernet ed in cinnamon. —V.B. 87 (Paso Robles). The fruit elements of black 85 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). With a dusty core abv: 13.9% Price: $29 currant and black plum are cut by rotting roses, wet of black plum, cassis and clove, this is a straight- earth and other dank aromas on this bottling. There forward, softly approachable wine made to be en- VinRoc 2012 RTW (Napa Valley). Blending is a chalky grip right away on the sip, with the fla- joyed now. Medium bodied, it enters into a realm of 88 Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and Syr- vors holding to a rocky core. The structure is quite creamy vanilla on the finish. —V.B. ah, RTW is somewhat classical in its black olive and dense and wound up right now, so the wine needs abv: 14.4% Price: $32 dried herb, yet also rich and concentrated, with tan- some time to open up. —M.K. nic bite and a taste of clove. It finishes like vanilla abv: 14.2% Price: $35 Sivas-Sonoma 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon cola. —V.B. 85 (Sonoma County). Smoky with a heavy dose abv: 14.5% Price: $49 J. Rickards 2012 Serpentine Ridge Reserve of char, this wine is a mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, 86 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). with smaller drops of Petit Verdot, Syrah, Petite City Winery of New York 2010 Bettinelli Vine- This wine has a texture of softness and juiciness, Sirah and Merlot. Perfumed in black olive and black 87 yard Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Yount- with a leathery background. Tannic and rich in currant, it offers soft layers of blackberry and leath- ville). Truffled earth, sage and cedar rise from thick, blackberry and powerful oak, it finishes lean. —V.B. er ringed in vanilla. —V.B. harsh tannins that are still tightly wound and domi- abv: 14.8% Price: $58 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 neering. From a single vineyard site and aged in bottle for a few years, it features a density to the Montevina 2013 Independence Point Cab- Toad Hollow 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon blackberry fruit that plays nicely with the vanilla 86 ernet Sauvignon (California). Gobs of ripe 85 (Lodi). Hints of maple syrup and brown oak. —V.B. fruit flavor and a smooth texture make this medi- sugar in the aroma, ripe blackberry and strawberry abv: 14.1% Price: $48 um-bodied wine delicious and appealing. It smells in the flavor, and full body add up to a big, extro- like molasses and boysenberries, tastes jammy, and verted wine. It’s not overly tannic, so is easy to en- Decoy 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma has no harsh tannins. Best Buy. —J.G. joy in spite of the bold flavors. —J.G. 87 County). Made from a majority of Alexander abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 13.9% Price: $16 Valley fruit, this is a smoky, chocolaty red wine, ripe in blackberry and an accent of clove. Rich, it re- Old Soul 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). The Rule 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa mains fresh on the palate, with soft, supple tannins 86 Aromas of charcoal and flavors of barbecue 82 Valley). Small amounts of other grapes fig- and an easygoing, lingering finish. —V.B. sauce make it pretty clear what to eat when drink- ure into this majority-Cabernet Sauvignon, includ- abv: 13.9% Price: $25 ing this bold, spicy and assertive wine. Moderate ing Merlot, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah. It begins with a reduced sensibility that translates into an

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undeniable aroma and taste of barrel and petrol. notes of baked plum, cranberry and baked bread. It Clos du Bois 2012 Coro Mendocino (Men- —V.B. comes together in a softly layered package, drinking 90 docino). This is a beautifully balanced, abv: 14.2% Price: $25 well now. Kosher. —V.B. medium-bodied wine that’s not too deep in color. It abv: 14.8% Price: $38 smells like ripe blackberries and has a whiff of wood smoke in the bright berry flavors. In the blend, Zin- CARIGNANE Brave & Maiden 2012 Union (Santa Ynez Val- fandel is supplemented with Syrah, Petite Sirah and 91 ley). Quite deep and brooding on the nose, Carignane. —J.G. Mounts 2012 Rebotarro Vineyard Old Vine this blend of Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Merlot abv: 13.5% Price: $40 90 Carignane (Pine Mountain-Cloverdale shows mocha, blood, blueberry, smoke, loam and Peak). From vines planted in 1958 in an appellation gingerbread on the nose. The showy, ripe purple Clos La Chance 2012 Lila’s Cuvee (Central that straddles both Sonoma and Mendocino coun- fruit is restrained by a lava-rock minerality, oregano 90 Coast). Roast beef, grape candy, cracked ties, this is an intriguing, interesting wine, mostly herbals and cedar tannins that give a grippy texture. blueberry, beef char and grapy freshness come to varietal, with 8% each of Mourvèdre and Syrah. —M.K. the nose on this bottling. The candied grape and Floral, it veers into leather and , with a juicy abv: 14.4% Price: $30 blueberry elements carry dark-fruit character to the backbone of red cherry and berry and earthy, tex- palate, along with licorice that gives depth. Roasting tured tannins. —V.B. Comartin 2013 The Porterhouse (Central herbs in the midpalate adds savory flair. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $28 91 Coast). Cola, Dr Pepper, licorice, blueberry abv: 14.5% Price: $50 paste and smoked meat show on this blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Grenache, which is an ode to Adam Mounts 2012 Verah (Dry Creek Valley). A OTHER RED BLENDS Comartin’s butcher ancestry. Dense and chalky dark 90 velvety, sinewy blend of 40% Syrah, 40% fruit on the palate is boosted by tobacco, asphalt, Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre from estate-grown Falcone NV Annate VI (Paso Robles). Plump black plum skins and good grip. It’s full bodied but and nearby vineyards, this wine offers a lot to like, 94 blackberry and ripe black cherries meet tart on the edges. —M.K. from textured tannins to succulent blueberry and with caramel sauce and a hint of slate on this non- abv: 14.9% Price: $40 plum. Intense and floral, it finishes with an explo- vintage exploration of Petite Sirah, Syrah and Cab- sion of white pepper. —V.B. ernet Sauvignon. A sip reveals blackberry, dark Oso Libre 2007 Jovis Italic Blend (Paso Ro- abv: 14.8% Price: $35 chocolate, cola and a bit of smoke flavorings, prov- 91 bles). This eight-year-old blend of 68% ing plush yet brisk, ripe yet restrained with a rocky , 12% Sangiovese, 8% Merlot, 8% Caber- Ray’s Station Vineyards 2012 Coro Mendoci- minerality. —M.K. net Sauvignon and 4% Cabernet Franc shows very 90 no (Mendocino). Ripe fruit flavors and a de- abv: 14.6% Price: $65 reserved plum fruit on the nose alongside leather, licious spiciness combine to make this full-bodied dust, cedar and just-snapped pencil. The palate of- but not very tannic wine easy to love. It smells like Viader 2013 Estate Limited Edition (Napa fers a complex array of roasted beef crust, stewed cherries and raspberries, tastes full but not sweet, 93 Valley). For full review see page 6. Cellar plums, Mission figs and roasting herbs like oregano. and has a texture that spreads and softens on the Selection. —M.K. palate like melting chocolate. It’s made with 50% abv: 15.1% Price: $100 abv: 14.5% Price: $27 Zinfandel and almost equal parts Syrah, Carignane and Petite Sirah. —J.G. Ascension Cellars 2012 Trinity-Cass Vine- Pianetta 2013 Tuscan Nights (Central Coast). abv: 14.4% Price: $40 92 yards G-S-M (Paso Robles). Aromas of iced 91 Violet, boysenberry, sandalwood and pencil hibiscus tea with chopped spearmint come quickly lead converge on this nose of this 72% Cabernet Red C 2013 Red (Napa-Sonoma). In this to the nose on this wine, which also offers fresh Sauvignon bottling, which is boosted by 25% San- 90 blend, Cabernet Sauvignon was co-fer- cola, herbal smoke and red currant scents. The pal- giovese and 3% Petite Sirah. The palate is loaded mented with Petite Sirah, with 70% of the grapes ate is packed with tarragon and fresh-cut herbs with interesting flavors, from dried raspberry to grown in the Napa Valley. There’s a compelling rich- laced into cranberry-cherry juice, proving simulta- crushed wild chaparral and black rocks. —M.K. ness of earthy truffle and red berry in the wine, sup- neously light and leathery. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $42 ported in full-bodied breadth by a grip of tannin. abv: 13.8% Price: $56 Bennett Valley Syrah and Dry Creek Merlot also fig- Rotta 2013 SBR (Paso Robles). Shy at first ar- ure into the mix. Kosher. —V.B. Brecon Estate 2013 Forty Two (Paso Robles). 91 omatically, this wine slowly reveals blueberry abv: 14.8% Price: $44 92 For full review see page 7. candy, hoisin sauce, dried plums and pencil shav- abv: 14.8% Price: $42 ings on the nose. The palate is thick and lush, with Red Rock 2012 Winemaker’s Blend Reserve lots of slate-driven structure and ample black-plum 90 (California). For full review see page 14. Oso Libre 2011 Rojo del Patron (Paso Robles). fruit spiced up with charred tobacco and singed Best Buy. 92 Translating to “The Boss’s Red,” this blend wood. —M.K. abv: 13.6% Price: $14 of 50% Zinfandel and 50% Merlot is a bomber, abv: 14.6% Price: $45 with aromas of violet-laced fudge cake, ginger Barra of Mendocino 2012 Coro Mendocino snaps, stewed black cherries, vanilla and sarsapa- Caliza 2012 Companion Syrah-Cabernet Sau- 89 (Mendocino). Enticing spicy, toasty aromas rilla. The palate is all about purple flavors, with 90 vignon (Paso Robles Willow Creek District). and robust, dry fruit flavors are matched by very ginger-molasses spice as well as lifting spearmint This 50-50 blend of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon firm, fine-grained tannins in this full-bodied wine. and lilacs. —M.K. shows dried strawberries, violets, lilacs, chocolate Based on 65% Zinfandel, it has lots to offer, but abv: 14.5% Price: $27 sauce and cappuccino on the nose. The palate offers at this stage an oaky sensation and the astringent dark chocolate, strawberry and cherry flavors, along mouthfeel indicate that it needs to mellow. Best to The Tribe 2013 Proprietary Red (Sonoma with a leveling effect from pencil lead and graph- drink after 2018. —J.G. 92 County). Co-fermented Syrah, Petite Sirah ite. Watch for a future in this sort of blend from the abv: 14.5% Price: $40 and Zinfandel from the Mounts Vineyard in Dry Central Coast. —M.K. Creek Valley were all picked the same day for this abv: 15.5% Price: $60 Foundry 2012 Proprietary Red Blend (Cali- blend that’s tight, sinewy and smoky in sanguine 89 fornia). This deep-colored, rich-tasting and

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 thick-textured blend does a fine imitation of a more ances mingle. Medium bodied, this is a pleasure to Oso Libre 2012 Carnal (Paso Robles). This expensive red. Made with a majority of Merlot, its drink now. This blend was made from 49% Zinfan- 87 blend of 43% Grenache, 32% Petite Sirah dark cherry and dark chocolate flavors blend well del, 20% Charbono, 20% Carignane and 11% Petite and 25% Syrah shows dense berry aromas along in a texture of fine-grained tannins and firm acid- Sirah. —J.G. with cherry muffins and violets on the nose. The ity. —J.G. abv: 14.45% Price: $40 palate offers interestingly chalky boysenberries and abv: 14.3% Price: $32 a hint of cocoa dust, but is overwhelmed by a slight Jamie Slone Wines 2012 Super Tuscan sourness and cooked fruit character. —M.K. Ghostrider 2014 Ungrafted Red (Lodi). 88 (Santa Ynez Valley). Aromas of ripe grapes abv: 14.5% Price: $32 89 Spicy, meaty flavors like black pepper and and vanilla make for a lush, inviting nose on this beef broth blend with substantial fruit flavors in fruit-forward bottling of 49.5% Sangiovese, 49.5% Kitchen Sink NV Red (California). A very this medium-bodied, dry and rather sophisticated Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Malbec. The juicy pal- 86 pleasant cherry-raspberry aroma and simi- wine. It’s almost a meal in itself, and well-balanced. ate shows blackberries and black cherries as well as larly fruity flavors bring a lot of appeal to this light- Best Buy. —J.G. licorice and dark chocolate, with strong tannins giv- bodied and not very tannic wine. It’s smooth and abv: 14.1% Price: $14 ing textural balance. —M.K. easy to drink, with no rough edges. —J.G. abv: 13.95% Price: $50 abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Girasole 2013 Hybrid Red Organic Grapes 89 (Mendocino). A dark-red color, aromas Markham 2013 Cellar 1879 Blend (Napa Val- Louis M. Martini 2012 Monte Rosso Vineyard like dark chocolate, flavors recalling black cherry, 88 ley). Richly ripe in black cherry and choco- 86 Mountain Red (Sonoma Valley). A mix of and a dry rather than sweet taste make this a great late, this is a blend of Merlot, Petite Sirah, Cabernet 37% Zinfandel, 32% Syrah and 31% Petite Sirah, wine for a special meal. It has layers of fruit, a bit Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel and Petit Verdot. Gen- this is a burly, thick and syrupy concoction from a of smoke, and lots of fine tannins that pile up for a erous tannins give way to a soft, smooth mouthfeel high-elevation vineyard site known for its power rich mouthfeel and lingering finish.Best Buy. —J.G. and a burst of blackberry and leather, finishing in and concentration. Sweet vanilla rides a dense abv: 13.5% Price: $13 spicy cinnamon and black pepper. —V.B. wave of tannin and oak, finishing tight and leathery. abv: 14.8% Price: $25 —V.B. Golden 2012 Coro Mendocino (Mendocino). abv: 14.8% Price: $65 89 Impressively dry, medium bodied, very Pianetta 2013 Bilancio Syrah-Cabernet Sau- firmly tannic and showing complex fruit flavors, 88 vignon (Monterey). A dusty, cigar-smoke Murrieta’s Well 2012 The Spur (Livermore this Zinfandel-based wine needs time to mellow. It character on the nose of this blend of 52% Syrah 86 Valley). A velvety texture and ripe cherry smells like fresh raspberries and blackberries, and and 48% Cabernet Sauvignon spices up aromas of aromas and flavors form a soft impression. While tastes concentrated and mouthcoating, while the strawberry fruit and rotting roses. The palate com- the wine is full bodied it’s not so tannic as to be out astringent tannins hold everything back just a bit. It bines complex cranberry fruits with Kalamata olive, of balance. It turns soft and easy on the aftertaste. contains 34% Syrah and 21% Petite Sirah, and will thyme and pencil lead. —M.K. —J.G. be best after 2018. —J.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Rutherford Hill 2012 Barrel Select (Napa Tranzind 2013 Red (Lodi). Smoky, cedary Guyomar 2012 Laity (Paso Robles). This 88 Valley). Sanguine, this Merlot-dominant 86 aromas and flavors dominate this bold, full- 89 blend holds 59% Syrah, 24% Grenache, blend is juicy with well-toned structure and length. bodied and tannic wine made from 80% Zinfandel 13% Petite Sirah and 4% Zinfandel. Slightly re- Smaller percentages of Syrah and Malbec pro- with Petite Sirah, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. served at first, with some patience it begins to show vide succulence and softness, while also offering a Spicy, toasted, almost sweet flavors of oak are very violets, boysenberries and sandalwood on the nose. density of black cherry and berry, finished in dark apparent. —J.G. Aromatic purple flowers arise on the sip, along with chocolate. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $15 dark chocolate and black currant. But the wine is abv: 13.9% Price: $35 rigidly structured, remaining quite wound-up even Delectus 2012 Cuvée Julia (Knights Valley). after many hours open. —M.K. Vigilance 2012 Cimarron (Lake County). This 85 Made from a majority of Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.9% Price: $42 88 bold blend has aromas like charred oak bar- gnon, this bombastic blend also has Cabernet Franc, rels and saturated flavors suggesting blackberry, Merlot and Petite Sirah. A bouquet of cinnamon and Lake & Vine 2012 Red Wine (Lake County). black pepper and clove. It is full bodied, thick in clove invites, before intense tar, tobacco and bitter- 89 For full review see page 13. texture and moderately tannic. For those who like sweet tannins make way for super-sized oak and a abv: 14.5% Price: $30 obvious oakiness, it will be a treat. —J.G. taste of bacon. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 abv: 16.1% Price: $165 McFadden 2012 Coro Mendocino (Mendoci- 89 no). Everything is in place in this medium- Belle Ambiance 2013 Red Wine Blend (Cali- Red 7 2010 Proprietary Red Wine (North bodied, smooth-textured and generously flavored 87 fornia). For full review see page 15. Best Buy. 85 Coast). This wine is appealing for its smooth wine. It has a good blend of subtle cherry, black- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 mouth-feel, mildly spicy aromas and dried-fruit fla- berry and raspberry flavors, plus hints of spice vors. Medium to full bodied, it also tastes mellow from barrel aging. Well balanced for drinking now Jigar 2012 RAJA Cuvée (Mendocino County). and mature, with no rough edges poking out. —J.G. through 2018, it’s made with 63% Zinfandel, 23% 87 One of the bolder, more tannic red blends, abv: 14.3% Price: $24 Petite Sirah and 14% Syrah. —J.G. this full-bodied wine has cedar and cinnamon aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $40 mas, flavors like boysenberry jam and a nicely grip- Red XS NV Red (California). Very fruity in texture. Well balanced by firm acidity, it stays 85 aroma, like raspberries, and generous in Testa Vineyards 2012 Coro Mendocino (Men- lively. The wine is made with 46% Malbec, plus flavor, like boysenberries, this full-bodied wine is 89 docino). A silky texture without much tan- Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. —J.G. easy to drink. It’s slightly sweet and has a smooth nin, and vivid fruit flavors combine for a smooth abv: 13.5% Price: $24 texture. —J.G. and satisfying wine. It smells like fresh berries and abv: 14.3% Price: $15 cherries, and tastes on the light side as the fruit nu-

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The Winery SF 2011 Peoples Blend (North Heartache 2011 Red (California). This basic Andeluna 2015 1300 Chardonnay (Valle de 85 Coast). This high-octane wine smells like 81 wine that has earthy aromas, slightly pruney 80 Uco). Cidery, citric and jumbled on the nose Port, honey and black figs. It tastes very ripe, almost flavors and a smooth-enough texture. —J.G. and palate, this is barely cutting it. Briny, limited hot, feels quite tannic and heavy, and has a touch abv: 13.8% Price: $11 flavors of mealy citrus fruits finish flat. San Fran- of sweetness to redeem it. Enjoy this as an after- cisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. dinner drink with chocolate or a cigar. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $16 abv: 14.2% Price: $18 DESSERT WINES

Lucky NV Proprietary Red Wine (North Testarossa 2013 Novitiate Late Harvest Syr- TORRONTÉS 84 Coast). Fully ripe aromas and flavors like 89 ah (Chalone). Rather reserved in aromas for prunes and raisins and a soft, lightly tannic texture a dessert wine, this allows blackberry, black pepper Monteviejo 2014 Petite Fleur Torrontés make this a bold but not harsh wine. A touch of and mineral notes to emerge with time. The palate 88 (Cafayate). Tropical fruit aromas are sug- spicy oak adds complexity and full body helps the is lightly sweet, with ripe blackberry and blueber- gestive of bath soap and body oil. This feels obtuse, flavors linger. —J.G. ry-jam flavors, made interesting with a pencil-lead with depth and an oily sensation to the palate. abv: 14.3% Price: $24 minerality throughout. —M.K. Chunky, ripe, oily flavors of melon and orange finish abv: 16.7% Price: $27 loud and ripe, with a deeper set of tropical fruit fla- Saturday Night Red 2012 Red (California). vors than your average Argentine Torrontés. Esprit 84 Earthy aromas and meaty flavors make this Ascension Cellars 2012 Rapture-Frankel du Vin. —M.S. medium-bodied wine a bit of a wild card. Consum- 85 Vineyard Primitivo (Paso Robles). Strong in abv: 13.5% Price: $25 ers expecting an average red blend may find this too alcohol aromas on the nose, this shows tobacco, ci- funky, but it does feel rich and have a lingering fin- gar, pipe smoke and brandy-like notes. The palate Enrique Foster 2014 Ique Torrontés (Men- ish. —J.G. is extremely sweet and treacly, with fig and prune 87 doza). Despite showing a yellow color and abv: 13.9% Price: $11 flavors. —M.K. gritty oiliness on the nose, this feels round and abv: 20% Price: $36 complete, with tropical flavors of mango, papaya Black Ink 2013 Red (California). This me- and green melon. Everything about this is mild, in- 83 dium-bodied red has a dark, inky color. It offensive and tropical. Drink now before it starts to smells smoky, and offers flavors that are simple, ARGENTINA fade. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Best Buy. —M.S. grapy and very oaky. The texture is quite tannic. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 —J.G. CHARDONNAY abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Kaiken 2015 Terroir Series Torrontés (Salta). Rutini 2014 Encuentro Chardonnay (Mendo- 87 This is typical, textbook Torrontés with Bootstrap 2013 Red (California). Cedar aro- 88 za). This is nice and hints at greater things, tropical aromas of lime and orange peel. Citrusy 83 mas and raisin and prune flavors are bold in but ultimately it’s more modest and fluffy than acidity creates a refreshing palate feel, while tanger- this full-bodied, fresh but rather rustic wine. —J.G. substantive. Aromas of oak resin, baked apple and ine, lime and lychee flavors conclude in a cleansing, abv: 14.4% Price: $13 vanilla introduce a palate with mild acidity and not non-oily fashion. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. much structure. Vanilla, caramel, banana and honey- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Charles B. Mitchell NV Bella Rossa Italian dew flavors finish soft. Graziano Imports. —M.S. 83 Style (Fair Play). This is a straightforward, abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Andeluna 2014 1300 Torrontés (Uco Valley). plummy, raisiny wine with medium body and an 86 Pungent oily, tropical aromas of pineapple earthy, tomato-like touch in the flavors. It will be Rutini 2015 Trumpeter Chardonnay (Men- and melon come with a distant shot of turpentine good for very casual occasions. —J.G. 87 doza). Pleasant apple and woodspice aromas and/or chemical cleanser. In the mouth, this is abv: 14% Price: $18 are basic and limited but good. This feels balanced, round and melony, with solid framing. Citrus and with friendly melon, banana and tropical-fruit fla- lychee flavors finish with a light coating of bitter Headbanger 2013 Rock n Red (California). vors. Light oak and related vanilla flavors drive the pith. Drink right away. San Francisco Wine Ex- 83 Very ripe and obviously fruity aromas and finish on this easygoing Chardonnay. Graziano Im- change. —M.S. flavors are coated with sweet-seeming oak notes ports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 that resemble vanilla and maple syrup. The wine is abv: NA Price: $11 medium bodied and just moderately tannic. —J.G. Monteviejo 2013 Festivo Torrontés (La Rio- abv: 13.9% Price: $15 Bodega Zafado 2015 Chardonnay (Mendo- 86 ja). This Torrontés smells round, leesy, soft 83 za). Resiny oak sticks out, while the palate and short on particular fruit aromas. Due to its age, Ivory and Burt 2012 Red (Lodi). Bold aromas is grabby and sticky in feel. This tastes like lemony this feels plump and low on edgy acidity. Powdery 83 of bread dough and strong flavors of herbs pushcart hotdogs and the briny water they sit in, citrus and lime flavors end flat, with some burn. and stewed fruit flavors compete for attention. This followed by a woody, low-fruit finish. Prestige Wine This is probably past its prime, but it’s still in good wine is medium bodied, smooth in texture and rus- & Spirits Group. —M.S. shape to enjoy now. Esprit du Vin. —M.S. tic in flavor. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.8% Price: $16 Luis Segundo Correas 2015 Valle Las Acequias Casa Nuestra 2012 Tinto St. Helena (Napa 81 Clase A Chardonnay (Mendoza). Odd aromas MALBEC 82 Valley). A field blend of several varieties, of bath soap and tropical fruits are not convincing all organically farmed, this has a pruney aroma and for Chardonnay. A narrow diluted palate offers low- Marchiori & Barraud 2013 Cuartel 2 Marchiori flavors that lean rustic and raw, with a heaviness of level lemon and tropical-fruit flavors in front of a 93 Vineyard Malbec (Perdriel). This is not your weight. —V.B. sour underwhelming finish. Pinnacle International. average power-packed Malbec. Opening scents of abv: 14.4% Price: $40 —M.S. meaty, wild berry fruits are feral and interesting, abv: 12.5% Price: $9 and also quite bold. A layered, deep palate shows purity, black-fruit flavors and oaky additions of

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 chocolate, spice and pepper. A dark, minty, spicy Navarro Correas 2011 Alegoría Gran Reserva and red-currant flavors finish nicely, with rubbery finish is fiery, so drink cautiously through 2023. 91 Malbec (Mendoza). Smoky aromas of fresh- tannins. Drink through 2019. Apex Wine Group, The Artisan Collection. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. cut wood blend with berry and cassis form a wel- LLC. —M.S. abv: 15.2% Price: $42 coming, generous bouquet. This feels lively on the abv: 13.9% Price: $29 palate, albeit tartaric. Oaky plum, cassis and va- Monteviejo 2009 Lindaflor La Violeta Malbec nilla flavors finish full and agreeable. Drink through Mascota 2013 La Mascota Malbec (Mendo- 93 (Uco Valley). For full review see page 6. 2019. Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines. —M.S. 89 za). Strong blackberry aromas come with abv: 15.5% Price: $111 abv: 14.6% Price: $25 hints of wood smoke, graphite and minerality. On the palate, it is high in acidity and a touch scour- Bodega Catena Zapata 2012 Catena Alta His- Viña Cobos 2012 Marchiori Vineyard Block ing, but also fresh and lively. Common blackberry 92 toric Rows Malbec (Mendoza). Immediately 91 C2 Malbec (Perdriel). Cool briary plum and and toasty oak flavors end fresh and crisp, but short. appealing, this trendsetting Malbec proudly cranks blackberry aromas show lactic, creamy oak, which Saranty Imports. —M.S. out blackberry and spice aromas that are on the is nothing unusual for Cobos. Plump, dense and abv: 14.5% Price: $15 spot. Full and tannic on the palate, but not too fierce, saturated in the mouth, this block-selection Mal- this tastes of bold, earthy plum and black raspberry bec is extremely ripe, with medicinal black fruit and Piattelli 2011 Grand Reserve Limited Produc- with savory notes kicking in. A long, tightly wound raisiny flavors touched up by mocha and peppery 89 tion Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). Primary aro- finish with well-integrated oak means this will last. spice. An oaky, spicy finish is par for the course. mas of black cherry and cassis come with minerally Drink through 2022. Winebow. —M.S. Drink through 2021. Paul Hobbs Imports. —M.S. notes, herbal hints and a drop of iodine. This feels abv: 14% Price: $60 abv: 14.9% Price: $210 good but narrow, while saucy, lightly herbal berry flavors end with tolerable saltiness. Drink through Monteviejo 2010 Lindaflor Malbec (Uco Val- Bodega Catena Zapata 2013 Catena Malbec 2019. Vinocopia. —M.S. 92 ley). For full review see page 8. 90 (Mendoza). Ripe borderline raisiny aromas abv: 14.4% Price: $22 abv: 15% Price: $50 include earth, cedar and graphite scents. This is concentrated, grabby and fully extracted. Flavors Rutini 2012 Apartado Gran Malbec (Men- Salentein 2012 Single Vineyard Plot No 21 of jammy black fruits blend with spicy saucy notes 89 doza). Boysenberry and exotic notes of all- 92 Malbec (Mendoza). Ripe, jammy aromas of prior to a finish with flavors of tomato, herbs, salt spice and cardamom set this Malbec apart from the smashed blueberry are elevated by hints of herbs and gamy meat. Firm acidity guarantees this will field. In the mouth, this is typically angular, with and cola. A layered and lively mouthfeel is a big plus last at least another five years before falling off. sharp acidity and not much cushion. A one-note, on this plot-selection Malbec, while blackberry, Winebow. —M.S. linear flavor of rooty plum is neither fruity nor dry, herb and smoked-meat flavors finish firm fresh and abv: 13.5% Price: $24 while the finish fails to rise or fall; it just hums along with depth. Drink through 2022. Palm Bay Interna- on a singular beam of acid. Drink from 2018–2030. tional. —M.S. Nieto Senetiner 2011 Terroir Blend Malbec Graziano Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 90 (Luján de Cuyo). Compact aromas of red abv: 14.5% Price: $100 berries get a boost from oak-based coconut, cedar Altocedro 2013 Finca Los Turcos Malbec (La and graphite notes. This is a blend of three Malbec Durigutti 2013 HD Clásico Malbec (Uco Val- 91 Consulta). Heavy oak is a major theme on vineyards of varying elevations; it’s bursting with 88 ley). Dark spicy aromas of black plum and this full-bodied Malbec that’s cool and woody to acidity, while high-toned plum and currant flavors black currant are solid. In the mouth, this is sat- start, with aromas of vanilla and sweet plastic along are a touch salty. A lively, fiery finish is fueled by urated and hard, with heavy overall density and with ripe blackberry and cassis. Wall-to-wall huge latent acidity. Drink through 2020. Foley Family strong tannins. A dark, spicy, blackened set of dark- in mouthfeel, this tastes mostly of toasty oak, with Wines. —M.S. berry flavors finishes with more spice and mint than blackened, charred berry, mint and peppery flavors abv: 15% Price: $30 fruit. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. in the backdrop. In time look for the oak to settle abv: 14% Price: $22 and the fruit to emerge. Drink through 2021. Vino Ricardo Santos 2013 La Madras Vineyard Del Sol. —M.S. 90 Malbec (Mendoza). This ripe Malbec offers El Hijo 2009 Prodigo Reserva Malbec (La abv: 15% Price: $35 jammy blueberry aromas that hint at raisin but pull 88 Consulta). Stalky aromas of leathery berry back in the nick of time. A round pulpy palate is fruits suggest animal and earth. This is raw, tannic El Enemigo 2013 Malbec (Mendoza). Stout home to black cherry, berry and plum flavors sup- and hard on the palate, with saucy berry flavors that 91 bold berry aromas come with a hint of bacon. ported by loamy earthy notes. A fleshy finish isn’t fall off towards stalky and stewy. A dense tannic fin- This feels condensed, with rubbery, pinchy tannins. exact but it’s friendly. Drink through 2019. Global ish is structured but tastes herbal and stalky. Oasis Flavors of plum and wild berry are tightly wound, Vineyard Importers. —M.S. Wines. —M.S. while this is long and loud on the finish, with a re- abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $27 currence of abrasive tannins. Drink through 2020. Winebow. —M.S. Ricominciare 2009 Altísimo Malbec (Uco SignoSeis 2013 The Angel Oak Reserva Mal- abv: 13.9% Price: $30 90 Valley). This is an unusual, exotic take 88 bec (Valle de Uco). Plum and berry aromas on Malbec. The bouquet delivers cardamom, san- are infiltrated by touches of leafy green and leather Matias Riccitelli 2013 The Apple Doesn’t Fall dalwood and spiced black currant aromas. In the on the nose of this texturally sound, herbal-tast- 91 Far From The Tree Malbec (Mendoza). Con- mouth, it’s grabby with pinching tannins. Blueberry ing Malbec. Flavors of plum and spice are a touch centrated, ripe blackberry and cassis aromas come and cardamom flavors end ripe, with decent follow weedy, while baking spice and clove notes take over with peppery spice and cedary oak notes. This is through. Drink now. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. on the finish. Argentinean Wines, LLC. —M.S. big and generous on the palate, with roasted, well- abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 14.3% Price: $50 oaked blackberry flavors. A touch of heat lends sizzle to the finish. Drink through 2020. Guarachi Budeguer 2011 Cuatro Mil Malbec (Mendo- Zuccardi 2013 Q Malbec (Valle de Uco). Wine Partners. —M.S. 89 za). Ripe but constricted plum and raspber- 88 Jammy blueberry and boysenberry aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $30 ry aromas are firmly in the red-fruit zone. This feels include graphite and ink notes. This feels jammy to good and fresh, with tomatoey acidity. Saucy plum the point of being sluggish and heavy. Syrupy but

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not sweet flavors of herbal black fruits finish with a profile is oaky and a touch hot. Copa Fina Imports Ocaso 2014 Malbec (Mendoza). Light lasting gamy note. Winesellers, Ltd. —M.S. CA. —M.S. 86 scratchy aromas of spiced plum and rasp- abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $14 berry set up a racy lean palate that nobody would label as heavy. Quick simple flavors of red plum and Zuccardi 2013 Serie A Malbec (Valle de Uco). Revancha 2011 La Primera Malbec (Mendo- red currant finish tangy but mild. Great Domaines & 88 Macho grapy aromas are offset by spunky 87 za). Brushy aromas of field herbs blend with Estates. —M.S. raspberry scents. Fruity and a bit narrow and grab- scents of oaky vanilla, plastic and stalky berry fruits. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 by across the palate, this delivers Mendoza’s pat- This feels saturated and rubbery. A salty flavor pro- ented black-fruit flavors wrapped in chocolaty oak. file holds onto the bouquet’s stalky character, while Septima 2013 Obra Malbec (Mendoza). At Spice and oak remain present on a full finish. Wine- the finishing flavors are peppery and herbal, with a 86 first, this smells almost entirely of wood sellers, Ltd. —M.S. hint of sweet plastic derived from oak. McClellan and stalky berry fruits; with time, it takes on a ce- abv: 14% Price: $15 Imports. —M.S. dary quality but remains leathery, minty and rooty. abv: 14.3% Price: $22 On the palate this is grabby while stalky, briny fla- Benegas 2011 La Encerrada Estate Vineyard vors of herbal fruits end rustic minty and challeng- 87 Malbec (Mendoza). Reduced rubbery aromas Ruta 22 2013 Malbec (Mendoza). Rubbery ing. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. of blackberry and black currant come with a touch 87 slightly grassy berry and plum aromas give abv: 14.5% Price: $25 of mushroom. This is extracted, heavy and blocky on way to a fresh and fair palate that works. Oaky the palate, while baked blackberry flavors are mas- cherry and berry flavors are standard but well pre- Valentin Bianchi 2013 Famiglia Malbec (San sive but short on elegance. Bitter coffee flavors, rug- sented, while the finish is mild, with leftover plum 86 Rafael). Herbal rubbery plum aromas are ged tannins and stickiness make for a heavy finish. and berry notes. Siltstone Wines. —M.S. fully oaked, and thus there’s a campfire/brush fire Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13 quality to the nose. There’s energy on the palate, abv: 15% Price: $16 which holds steady and feels in tune. Spicy herbal Tiza 2013 Malbec (Uco Valley). Earthy slight- red-berry flavors with a ton of secondary oak finish Bodega Norton 2013 Barrel Select Malbec 87 ly grassy infusions work their way onto a hot mild and dry. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. 87 (Mendoza). Big, blocky black-fruit aromas energetic bouquet. This feels racy, drawing and a bit abv: 14.6% Price: $20 are reduced and potent. This is quite chunky and clampy, while woody spicy flavors of rubbery berry extracted in feel, with jammy gritty blackberry and fruits finish bold and hot like the beginning. Kysela Altocedro 2013 Abras Malbec (Cafayate). plum flavors that are mildly herbal and simmer with Père et Fils. —M.S. 85 Brambly and wild on the nose, this Cafayate heat and heft on the finish. Guarachi Wine Partners. abv: 14% Price: $20 Malbec features a narrow palate with edgy, briary —M.S. plum and berry flavors. This seems riper with time abv: 14% Price: $14 Tomero 2013 Malbec (Uco Valley). This in the glass, but all the way through it’s pinchy in 87 smells rubbery, with oaky spice, but airing feel and ultimately ends with candied sweetness. Doña Paula 2013 Estate Malbec (Mendoza). allows it to expand across a lively palate. Herbal, Vino Del Sol. —M.S. 87 Woody and dense at first, this smells bright spicy red-berry flavors are strongest in the mid- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 and fruity as it opens. A solid palate houses lightly palate, while peppery flavors, rubbery tannins and toasted flavors of blackberry that turn more pep- scratchiness define the finish. Blends Inc. —M.S. Lagarde 2014 Altas Cumbres Malbec (Luján pery and toasty on a fairly oaky finish. Trinchero abv: 14.5% Price: $17 85 de Cuyo). Light cherry and raspberry aro- Family Estates. —M.S. mas come in front of a grabby rubbery palate. This abv: 14.3% Price: $15 Kirkland Signature 2011 Signature Series tastes like salty plum, with little variation of that 86 Malbec (Mendoza). Stewy foresty aromas theme. A solid finish tastes exactly like what came Finca Sophenia 2014 Altosur Malbec (Tupun- of dark berry fruits are rustic and show a hint of before. Wineberry America LLC. —M.S. 87 gato). Jammy muscled-up aromas of black- graphite. This is severe on the palate, with hard abv: 13.9% Price: $13 berry show hints of spice, especially red chili flake. pinching tannins. Stalky, salty flavors of roasted This feels full, round and comfortable, with moder- black plum and blackberry finish similarly, with Restivo 2011 Reserve Malbec (Patago- ate tannic clamp. Herbal black-fruit flavors finish tannic bite. Blends Inc. —M.S. 85 nia). Flat cherry and clay aromas set up a bold, with a touch of dry bitter oak. The Country abv: 14.5% Price: $20 scratchy, almost citric palate with short but bright Vintner-Craft and Estate.Best Buy. —M.S. plum and raspberry flavors. This is basic Malbec abv: 14.5% Price: $12 Laberinto 2013 Malbec (Mendoza). Grassy with a tart hollow wiry finish. Biagio Cru & Estate 86 aromas of red currant suggest cowhide. Wines, LLC. —M.S. Lagarde 2012 Primeras Viñas Malbec (Luján This has a grabby narrow palate with green-leaning abv: 14% Price: $13 87 de Cuyo). Aromas of cedary oak, vanilla and raspberry flavors. Overall, this is fresh and wiry spiced berry fruits are encouraging. In the mouth, in style, with a choppy, mildly tannic finish. Wine Zolo 2013 Reserve Estate Grown Malbec however, this old-vines Malbec is jumpy and rub- Trees. —M.S. 85 (Mendoza). This extracted purple Malbec bery, with high acidity. Flavors of stalky red plum abv: 14.4% Price: $13 is furry and grapy smelling. A heavy sticky palate taste mildly oxidized and Sherried, while the fin- feels creamy, while cherry and boysenberry flavors ish is herbal and tastes burnt. All in all, this just Melipal 2013 Malbec (Mendoza). This is a are so ripe that the word syrupy is in play. A note doesn’t fully come together. Wineberry America 86 severely oaked wine that sizzles and smokes of chocolate and lasting creaminess come up on the LLC. —M.S. with aromas of campfire, creosote, road tar and finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $53 coconut. On the palate, it’s concentrated but also abv: 13.9% Price: $19 brutish. Roasted oaky black-fruit flavors echo the Larrea 2013 Juana Larrea Malbec (Mendoza). nose, while mint and chocolate dominate the finish. Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2014 Lote 44 Malbec 87 Berry aromas are a bit stalky, leathery and Time can only help this come around. The Artisan 84 (Mendoza). Big, raisiny and obtuse up front, roasted. This Malbec is lively on the palate, with Collection. —M.S. this fully extracted Malbec is heavy on the palate, energy and good balance. A creamy resiny flavor abv: 14.9% Price: $20 with raisin, prune and cassis flavors that show inte- rior notes of green herbs. This tastes minty, herbal

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 and hot on the finish, with barely any freshness. end raw, rough and bitter. Palm Bay International. A controlled composed finish benefits from lasting Terlato Wines International. —M.S. —M.S. acidity. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $9 abv: 14.5% Price: $21

Luis Segundo Correas 2011 Valle Las Acequias Michel Torino 2014 Coleccion Malbec (Cal- Valentin Bianchi 2012 Famiglia Bianchi Cab- 84 Finca Don Angelino Single Vineyard Malbec 81 chaquí Valley). Aromas of spearmint gum 88 ernet Sauvignon (San Rafael). Currant and (Mendoza). Scratchy raspberry aromas are jammy along with a weird coating of oak create a challeng- spice aromas are subdued and solid. A strapping but also green, with a strange hint of perfume. This ing nose. This is high in acidity, to the point of feel- tight palate with strong tannins delivers roasted feels chunky and rubbery, with stretchy, elastic tan- ing shearing. Sour herbal plum flavors finish rough plum, cassis, spice and chocolate flavors prior to a nins. Flavors of baked berry fruits, prune and herbs and bracing. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. dry spicy finish that holds its own. Quintessential finish hot. Pinnacle International. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 14.1% Price: $20 Mountain Door 2014 Malbec (Mendoza). Septima 2014 Malbec (Mendoza). Earthy 80 Herbaceous red-fruit and forced fiery oak Luigi Bosca 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- 84 stalky leathery aromas suggest modest ripe- aromas give this a spicy, almost Pinot Noir-like 87 doza). Crisp almost scratchy aromas of ness. This feels medium in weight, while short salty nose. Raw as nails on the palate, this tastes like herbal red fruits are a bit strained. This feels solid, flavors of plum and raspberry are herbal and argu- herbal green strawberry and chemicals. Weedy on with ample volume. Earthy flavors of tomato sauce, ably a touch weedy. This feels a little hot on the fin- the finish. Vintage Point. —M.S. mixed spices, stewed plum and cassis finish long ish. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 and herbal, with some grace. Frederick Wildman & abv: 14% Price: $14 Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22 Budeguer 2009 Patrimonio Seleccion de Bar- CABERNET SAUVIGNON 83 ricas Malbec (Mendoza). This is overripe and Mascota 2012 Gran Mascota Cabernet Sau­ raisiny, no two ways about it. Hailing from a very Alta Vista 2013 Premium Cabernet Sauvi- 87 vignon (Uco Valley). Inky aromas of blue- hot year, this feels flat and flabby, while raisin and 89 gnon (Mendoza). Crisp minerally aromas of berry and boysenberry are a bit collapsed and re- prune are the dominant flavors. Blatant overripe- cherry and blackberry come with toasty spicy ac- duced. Tannic and grabby in the mouth, this tastes ness and a ton of weight render this out of balance. cents. This is a tightly built full-bodied Cab with of leathery plum and salt. And that saltiness carries J.M. Shorrock & Co. LLC. —M.S. lightly herbal, moderately oaky and saucy flavors of onto the finish, which tastes briny and shows tannic abv: 14.7% Price: $NA berry and plum. A dry, spicy finish provides for a grip. Saranty Imports. —M.S. strong ending. Kobrand. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $23 Michel Torino 2014 Cuma Made With Organic abv: 14.5% Price: $20 83 Grapes Malbec (Cafayate). Rustic tomato Piattelli 2012 Premium Reserve Cabernet and cherry aromas make for a scratchy opening. Benegas 2011 Luna Benegas Cabernet Sauvi- 87 Sauvignon (Luján de Cuyo). Raspberry and This is wiry and grating in feel, with sour plum and 88 gnon (Mendoza). Solid dark-berry aromas cherry aromas are mild while not stirring much ex- red-currant flavors. A fresh but scratchy and herbal are dense and deep. This has a plump forward fruity citement. This feels a bit raw and tannic, but it’s tasting finish isn’t exactly friendly. Frederick Wild- palate with concentrated, toasty flavors of blackber- got enough body to hold up. Berry and plum flavors man & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. ry and dark plum. On the finish, this remains fruity finish with hints of spice and chocolate. Vinocopia. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 and compact, with more than enough body weight. —M.S. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17 Pampa 2013 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). abv: 14.5% Price: $13 83 Spearmint and weedy red-fruit aromas lead Zuccardi 2013 Serie A Cabernet Sauvignon to raw palate. This is more herbal than fruity, with Bodega Catena Zapata 2013 Catena Caber- 87 (Valle­ de Uco). Wiry plum and raspberry a lean rubbery finish. Pampa Beverages LLC. —M.S. 88 net Sauvignon (Mendoza). Floral berry and aromas are jumpy and a touch candied. This feels abv: 13.5% Price: $15 plum aromas are touched up by notes of thyme and bulky and grapy, with an obtuse body. Salty lightly cardamom. Fresh grippy acidity keeps this lively, herbal plum and berry flavors end with a touch of Quattrocchi 2013 Malbec (Mendoza). Grapy while flavors of berry and plum are spicy and sug- heat along with herbal leftovers. Winesellers, Ltd. 83 candied berry aromas mix with loud oak gestive of tomato sauce. Saucy, herbal flavors rise —M.S. that smells like clove and mint. This has a narrow up on a high-acid finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15 astringent mouthfeel and strange-tasting berry fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 vors that end with a rugged finish. Banville Wine Zuccardi 2012 Q Cabernet Sauvignon (Valle Merchants. —M.S. Nieto Senetiner 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 de Uco). A direct blast of reedy cherry and abv: 13.4% Price: $14 88 (Luján de Cuyo). Plum, cassis, herb and cassis aromas leads to rough-charging clampy pal- spice aromas make for a full, pleasant bouquet. ate with high acidity and hard tannins. This tastes La Riojana Coop 2014 Triada Malbec (La This shows a thick tannic plodding palate along of rooty plum supported by bold acidity, while spice, 82 ). Herbal berry aromas suggest den- with quick-hitting berry and cassis flavors. Lasting tomato and a dusting of brown sugar are the closing sity, and this is certainly dark full-sized and sticky. acidity on the finish creates welcome freshness and flavors. Winesellers, Ltd. —M.S. Pumped-up candied black-fruit flavors are thick length. Foley Family Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 and gooey, with cooked brown sugar, mint and toast abv: 14% Price: $13 flavors on the finish. Evaki Inc. —M.S. Tomero 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendo- abv: 12.5% Price: $7 Pascual Toso 2013 Reserva Barrancas Vine- 86 za). Roasted berry aromas are stalky at first 88 yards Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Crisp but come around. This feels round but only margin- Callia 2014 Alta Malbec (Tulum Valley). Mud- stony lightly herbal plum aromas are moderately ally structured. Creamy ripe generic flavors of berry 81 dy plum and berry aromas lead to a sharp, smoky. This feels flush and pleasant, with a full and cherry finish solid with some heat. Blends Inc. rugged palate. Tart plum and pie cherry flavors body and flavors of plum, cassis and tomato sauce. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

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Argento 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- notes. A drawing tannic finish tastes stewy and 85 doza). Saucy plum and wet-dog aromas im- OTHER RED WINES woody. SPW Importers. —M.S. prove ever so slightly with airing. This feels creamy abv: 13.5% Price: $18 and sticky, while basic flavors of cherry and plum Monteviejo 2012 Petite Fleur (Uco Valley). finish with herbal hints and sweet notes of vanilla 89 This Malbec-led blend opens with inky, and cream. Blends Inc. —M.S. hard-packed aromas of black fruits and grilled AUSTRALIA abv: 13.9% Price: $11 meats. The palate is on the rough and tough side, while flavors of ripe black fruits are intertwined PINOT NOIR Domaine Le Billoud 2011 Barrica 29 Cabernet with strong oak and spice. Overall, this is ripe, bold 85 Sauvignon (Mendoza). Herbal raspberry and heavy. Esprit du Vin. —M.S. Kooyong 2012 Estate Pinot Noir (Mornington and strawberry aromas are raw and a bit green. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 93 Peninsula). Like many Mornington produc- This feels scratchy as well, with tomatoey flavors ers, Kooyong has a relatively short track record of red currant and plum skins. A modest finish is Septima 2012 Gran Reserva (Mendoza). Ini- (founded 1996). For much of that time, winemaking racy in feel but mild in flavor. Icarus Wines.Best 89 tially, this blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvi- was under the guidance of Sandro Mosele, including Buy. —M.S. gnon and Tannat smells murky, leathery and nutty, this stunning 2012. It shows Burgundian levels of abv: 13.9% Price: $10 but with airing it settles and cleans up. Chunky and complexity in its array of smoke, leather, root veg- close to being oversaturated, this full-bodied red etable and black cherry notes, then backs that all Carlos Basso 2011 Viña Amalia Reserva Single tastes of loamy berry and raisin, while the finish is up with a firm-yet-supple texture and tremendous 84 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Valle de Uco). weighty. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. length. Drink now through 2022. Negociants USA, Soupy, saucy aromas are akin to tomato sauce. This abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. is wide, chunky and struggling for textural balance. abv: 13.5% Price: $55 Stalky roasted plum flavors finish herbal, spicy and El Esteco 2012 Ciclos Icono Malbec-Merlot flabby in feel. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S. 88 (Calchaquí Valley). The nose on this Mal- Moorooduc 2012 Robinson Vineyard Pinot abv: 14% Price: $19 bec-Merlot from Salta is raw and saucy, with more 93 Noir (Mornington Peninsula). Worth the ef- brawn and rusticity than elegance. A compact fort to find, this wine shows terrific balance in every Finca Perdriel 2012 Colección Cabernet Sau- grabby palate is intense, with herbal plum and hefty respect. Subtle oak and spice frame ripe cherry fruit 84 vignon (Mendoza). This wine has showed berry notes that mellow on a chunky lightly herbal on the nose. Refreshing herb and spice elements no consistency over the years. This vintage is black finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. add zest to cherry and cola flavors on the palate, and extracted with piercing inky blackberry aromas. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 where the wine is fleshy without being at all heavy. In the mouth, it’s huge, chunky and grating. Over- The ripe tannins on the finish are supple enough done black-fruit flavors finish clampy with oaky Bodega Renacer 2012 Enamore (Mendoza). to make this approachable now, but it should also bitterness and a sense of reduction. Guarachi Wine 87 A grassy, herbal element is up front on the evolve gracefully for at least five-to-eight years. Lit- Partners. —M.S. nose of this Amarone-style blend done in conjunc- tle Peacock Importers. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 tion with Allegrini of the the Veneto (Italy). In the abv: 14% Price: $55 mouth, it’s round as a ball, with syrupy richness. Loscano 2010 Gran Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- Ripe sticky berry and plum flavors finish chewy Dexter 2012 Pinot Noir (Mornington Peninsu- 84 gnon (Luján de Cuyo). Grainy oak and green with residual stickiness. Winebow. —M.S. 92 la). Owner-winemaker Tod Dexter and his aromas rest on top of generic red-fruit scents. This abv: 15% Price: $27 wife Debbie planted their first vines in 1987, making feels chunky, blocky and tannic, with herbaceous them reasonably mature for the region. The result is medicinal flavors of tomato, oak resin and green Atipax 2012 Gran Reserva (Mendoza). Sa- a medium-bodied restrained yet silky and seductive herbs. A spicy saucy-tasting finish holds onto the 86 vory aromas of beef jerky blend with raisin, Pinot Noir. Black cherry, cola, cedar and spice ele- wine’s minty green herbal essence. Vinocopia. grainy oak and sauciness on the nose of this Syrah- ments combine easily on the nose and palate, then —M.S. led blend. An exceedingly ripe palate feels inky with linger elegantly on the finish. Drink now–2020. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 low energy. Prune, raisin and cassis flavors are en- Little Peacock Importers. —J.C. cumbered by heavy oak, while the finish tastes both abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Luis Segundo Correas 2011 Valle Las Acequias chocolaty and like stewed plum. Justin Brass Excep- 84 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Grassy, tional Wine Imports. —M.S. Dalrymple 2012 Pipers River Pinot Noir herbal aromas rest on top of basic red-fruit notes. abv: 15% Price: $25 91 (Tasmania). The blended Pinot Noir from This feels choppy and hollow, with flavors of but- Dalrymple­ equals (or even exceeds) the single-vine- tery oak, chemical and red currant. The raw hot Cruz Alta 2012 Chairman’s Blend Malbec- yard bottlings on occasion. The 2012 is sturdy yet finish doesn’t have a lot of body or padding. Shaw- 86 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Mendoza). Aro- elegant, with ample weight joined by a silky texture Ross International Importers. —M.S. mas of cardamom and clove as well as heat make on the long finish. It smells earthy, yet delivers cola, abv: 13% Price: $13 for a challenging nose. In the mouth, heavy fruit dark cherry and plum flavors. Negociants USA, Inc. combined with chippy tannins create a clipped feel. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Ricordi 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendo- Ripe berry flavors are a bit jumbled, with oaky spice abv: 14.1% Price: $35 84 za). Closed aromas of red fruits, wet cement notes stepping up. A flat chunky finish is missing and green herbs precede a flat fairly tannic palate. skip in its stride. This is 85% Malbec with Cabernet Moorooduc 2012 Pinot Noir (Mornington Pen- Grinding cherry and plum flavors finish with hard Sauvignon and Syrah. Total Wine & More. —M.S. 91 insula). Moorooduc’s estate Pinot Noir is a tannins and midland rubbery red-fruit flavors. abv: NA Price: $27 solid value among the boutique offerings from the Wine Clearing Inc. —M.S. Mornington Peninsula. There’s a supple cushioning abv: 13.7% Price: $14 Ferllen 2011 Reserve Merlot (Mendoza). of flesh wrapped around a firm backbone of acid, 85 Soupy tomato, plum and green tobacco aro- while the flavors run from black cherry and mint mas feed into a pinched biting rubbery palate. This through earthier notes of brown sugar and roasted Merlot tastes roasted and oaky, with baked plum and berry flavors matched by clove and chocolate

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 parsnip. Drink now through 2020. Little Peacock Wakefield Estate 2014 Pinot Noir (Adelaide ably priced offering. It’s a very ripe style for Pinot Importers. —J.C. 89 Hills). This is a toasty oaky version of Pinot Noir, combining ample weight with plush tannins abv: 14% Price: $36 Noir, loaded with cedar, vanilla and wood-derived and superripe dark cherry-berry fruit. Drink now. tannins. Yet there’s enough cherry fruit to provide Middleton Family. —J.C. Warramate 2012 Pinot Noir (Yarra Valley). ample support, and delicate herbal shadings peer abv: 14% Price: $17 91 One of Yarra’s first wave of modern-day through on the bright, concentrated finish. Drink , Warramate was founded in 1970, which now through 2020. Seaview Imports. —J.C. Jacob’s Creek 2013 Reserve Pinot Noir (Ad- means this comes from Pinot Noir vines that can le- abv: 14% Price: $17 85 elaide Hills). For the price, this is a remark- gitimately be called old. The style is resolutely tra- able achievement. It’s a varietally correct, properly ditional, with crisp acids and a wiry backbone the D’Arenberg 2012 The Feral Fox Pinot Noir lightweight Pinot Noir imbued with attractive black standout features. Cedary oak further frames tart 88 (Adelaide Hills). The ample alcohol in this cherry fruit. There’s a charred-stave character that cherry fruit, which finishes long and crisp. Drink wine imparts a rich slightly syrupy feel to this wine adds vanilla and a tinge of mocha as well. Drink from 2018 through until 2025. MHW, Ltd. —J.C. that’s not particularly Pinot-like, but still satisfy- now. Pernod Ricard. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ing. Strawberry and raspberry notes carry a hint of abv: 13.4% Price: $13 tomato leaf, then finish with crisp acids. Old Bridge Dalrymple 2012 Coal River Valley Single Cellars. —J.C. Fowles Wine 2012 Are You Game? Pinot Noir 90 Site Pinot Noir (Tasmania). This is strongly abv: 14.5% Price: $32 84 (Victoria). There’s 10% Zinfandel blended marked by new oak on the nose at this stage, sug- into this wine, but looking at my notes, I never gesting toast, brown sugar and coffee, but fruit Plantagenet 2012 Omrah Pinot Noir (West- would’ve thought so. The pale color is all Pinot Noir, comes through on the palate where hints of dark 88 ern Australia). This supple medium-bodied as are the aromas of earth and tomato (the vanilla berries, cola, clove and cinnamon mingle. The wine Pinot Noir is ready to drink. Predominantly earthy comes from the French oak barrels). It’s light and is creamy and lush in texture, with ample weight notes of leather and dried spices are harmonious crisp, with a tart finish. Fowles Wine Ltd. —J.C. and a lingering finish of dried fruit, vanilla and mo- and complex without being overly demanding. Old abv: 13% Price: $17 cha. Drink from 2018 to 2025. Negociants USA, Inc. Bridge Cellars. —J.C. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Robert Oatley 2012 Pocketwatch Pinot Noir abv: 14.1% Price: $65 81 (Victoria). A disappointing blend of wine Dalrymple 2012 Bicheno Single Site Pinot Noir sourced from Mornington and Yarra, this is a bit Riposte 2014 The Dagger Pinot Noir (Ade­ 87 (Tasmania). Pie cherry and rhubarb notes pale in color, with a Sherried edge to the fruit and 90 laide Hills). Tim Knappstein’s decision to make a bright impression on the nose, followed by some astrigency on the finish. Robert Oatley Vine- focus on the Adelaide Hills bears fruit in this ter- tart flavors bundled in a mocha-tinged wrapper. The yards Inc. —J.C. rific-value Pinot Noir. The aromas and flavors are a texture is almost syrupy on the midpalate, but turns abv: 13% Price: $15 colorful mélange of beets, black cherries and purple dry and dusty on the finish. This is a bit disjointed heirloom tomatoes, backed by a rich texture and at this stage, so perhaps it will improve with cellar- a long velvety finish. Drink now until 2020. Little ing. Try after 2018. Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. PORTUGAL Peacock Importers. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.1% Price: $65 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 WHITE WINES Picardy 2012 Pinot Noir (Pemberton). The Wakefield Estate 2013 Pinot Noir (Adelaide 87 Pannell family, who founded Margaret Riv- ALENTEJANO 90 Hills). Based in Clare Valley, Wakefield er’s Moss Wood in 1969, moved on in the mid-1990s sources this fruit from the cooler Adelaide Hills. to Pemberton, where it felt conditions were more Terras de Alter 2013 Terra d’Alter Reserva Attractive rose-petal and dry earth aromas lead the suited to Burgundian varieties. This is a rather full- 90 Branco (Alentejano). This concentrated way, followed by notes of black cherries and licorice bodied Pinot Noir, with supple tannins and a long, wine was wood aged for six months, giving the light- on the palate. It’s a bit full-bodied and muscular, a slightly dusty finish. Light resiny notes and rooty est touch of oak along with ripe yellow fruits and a Pinot more for steak than salmon. Seaview Imports. scents add complexity to modest cherry fruit. Drink crisp tangy aftertaste. It has a touch of spice along —J.C. now–2020. Little Peacock Importers. —J.C. with bright acidity at the end. Drink now. Artisan abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Vines Distributing. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Innocent Bystander 2014 Pinot Noir (Vic­ Shoofly 2014 Pinot Noir (Victoria). Blended 89 toria). It’s difficult to find $20 Pinot Noir 87 from Yarra Valley and King Valley fruit, this Terras de Alter 2013 Telhas Viognier (Alente- this good from anywhere in the world. Floral notes light-bodied Pinot Noir is silky in texture, with a 89 jano). Named Telhas (tiles) from the Roman on the nose yield to ripe black-cherry fruit on the lingering finish. Modest red fruit combines with tiles that are still found occasionally in this vine- palate, which finish finishes with crisp acids and earthier notes of parsnip. Drink now. Old Bridge yard, this is a rich spicy wine that comes mainly soft, dusty tannins. Drink now–2020. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. from Viognier. That gives the wine a perfumed char- Cellars. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 acter with touches of ginger, along with ripe apri- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 cots and a fine fresh aftertaste. Drink this wine from Sidewood 2013 Pinot Noir (Adelaide Hills). 2017. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. Sidewood 2012 Pinot Noir (Adelaide Hills). 87 Cedar and vanilla notes mark the nose of this abv: 14% Price: $30 89 The 2012 and 2013 were both wine, which boasts ample weight, modest fruit and strong in southern Australia, so some of the realisti- a soft, open-knit texture. It’s appealing for its oaky Terras de Alter 2013 Terra d’Alter Siria (Alen- cally priced Pinots from South Australia and Victo- charm. USA Wine West. —J.C. 88 tejano). A ripe and warm wine full of yellow ria are worth stocking up on. This is a good example, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 fruits and a full-bodied texture. It’s rich and creamy showing hints of acacia blossoms, red berries, cola with a fine balance between exotic fruit and the and brown sugar wrapped in supple tannins. Drink Ad Lib 2014 Cruel Mistress Pinot Noir (Pem- crispest citrus. The wine is ready to drink. Artisan now through 2018. USA Wine West. —J.C. 86 berton). Renowned winemaking consultant Vines Distributing. —R.V. abv: 14.2% Price: $20 Larry Cherubino lent his deft touch to this reason- abv: 13.5% Price: $14

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Magnum Vinhos 2014 Flor de Maio Branco has density and concentration as well as opulent ripe wine that has yellow fruits alongside crisper 87 (Alentejano). A fresh and fruity wine that yellow fruit and pear flavors. It is a beautiful wine, red apples and touches of grapefruit. That makes for has a creamy texture and attractive acidity. It is full rich while also so stylish. Drink from 2018. Tri-Vin a balanced light wine that has a fine texture and a of lemon and crisp apple flavors with an intense Imports. —R.V. fresh aftertaste. Drink now. Eastern Wine Distribu- juicy underlay that needs to calm down, so drink abv: 13.5% Price: $52 tors. —R.V. this crisp wine from mid-2016. Wine In-Motion. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Best Buy. —R.V. Cartuxa 2013 Foral de Evora Branco Colheita abv: 13% Price: $9 91 (Alentejo). This is a rich wine that feels full- bodied and with concentration. It has ripe pineap- TEJO Terras de Alter 2014 Terra d’Alter Alvarinho ple and tropical fruit flavors as well as fresher citrus 87 (Alentejano). A surprisingly fresh wine for acidity. It has also a fine texture that gives the wine Quinta da Alorna 2013 Marquesa de Alorna an Alvarinho from the hot Alentejo. It shows crisp great depth and ripeness. Drink from late 2016. Tri- 92 Grande Reserva Branco (Tejo). Named in acidity, with lime and apricot flavors and a bright, Vin Imports. —R.V. homage to a Marquesa de Alorna who was a poet in crisp aftertaste. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 the 18th century, this wood-aged rich wine is seri- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 ous and complex. It has ripe yellow fruits that bal- Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2014 Montes ance with the spice from the wood aging, giving a Terras de Alter 2014 Terra d’Alter (Alente- 88 Claros Reserva Branco (Alentejo). A tangy ripe creamy wine that will still age. Drink from 2017. 87 jano). This is an attractive, perfumed wine textured wine that is impressively fresh for such a Opici Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. that is a blend of Síria, Arinto and Viognier. It’s hot region as Alentejo. It has a crisp texture that is abv: 13.5% Price: $25 the Viognier that gives the perfumed character that balanced by a touch of vanilla as well as freshened makes it so distinctive. It’s fruity, lightly textured with citrus and green apple flavors. It is fresh and Quinta do Arrobe 2013 Quinto Elemento and ready to drink. Artisan Vines Distributing. Best very drinkable at this young stage. Wait a year until 88 Reserva Chão Calcário Arinto (Tejo). As its Buy. —R.V. 2017 and it will be even better. Luiz’s Grocery And name implies, the wine comes from chalky soil, giv- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Liquors. —R.V. ing this wine its mineral edge. The fruit is ripe and abv: 13% Price: $16 tropical in its generosity, full of yellow fruits, pine- Cartuxa 2014 EA Branco (Alentejano). This apple and mango. There is a fine floral aroma which, 86 is a friendly fruity wine that has a soft Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2014 Premium along with acidity, give the wine a bright aftertaste. texture and bright acidity. If it does miss a sense 88 Branco (Alentejo). This is a pale colored Simões Imports. —R.V. of place, it makes up for it with citrus and white wine, a blend of local grapes and deliciously fresh. It abv: 13% Price: $NA fruit flavors that are so fresh. Drink now. Tri-Vin is rounded and smooth, touched by citrus and fresh Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. tangerines. Ripe and fruity, it is ready to drink now. Quinta do Casal Monteiro 2014 Tejo. A abv: 13.5% Price: $9 Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. —R.V. 86 smooth and ripe wine with tropical fruits abv: 13% Price: $15 as well as more crisp apple. It is ripe wine, full in Herdade do Rocim 2014 Alentejano. The the mouth with a final perfumed acidity. Give it 86 wine is soft and lightly textured. It has fruit Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2013 Branco another six months. Iberian Wine Importers. Best with ripe apricot and white peach flavors that are 88 Reserva (Alenteo). With the normally more Buy. —R.V. lifted by the bright citrus aftertaste. The wine is northern Alvarinho in the blend, this wine has con- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 ready to drink. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. siderable freshness. That is mitigated by the wood abv: 13% Price: $20 aging that has broadened the wine and brought out Wines & Winemakers 2014 Companhia das tropical and yellow fruit flavors. The wine is ready 86 Lezírias Herdade de Catapereiro (Tejo). Magnum Vinhos 2014 Maria Mora Branco to drink. Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. —R.V. Fruity and aromatic, this blend of Fernão Pires, 86 (Alentejano). A blend of Arinto and Antão abv: 13% Price: $18 Arinto and Sauvignon Blanc is fresh with attractive Vaz, this is refreshingly fruity. It has pineapple as acidity and also riper tropical fruit and pear flavors. well as citrus flavors, an attractive blend of fresh- It has a mineral texture that gives the a fine struc- ness and crispness. The aftertaste is bright, full of PENÍNSULA DE SETÚBAL ture. Drink now. Wines Without Borders. —R.V. lively acidity. Wine In-Motion. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $10 José Maria da Fonseca 2014 Colecção Privada 87 Verdelho (Península de Setúbal). This is a Quinta da Alorna 2014 Tejo. This is an attrac- Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2014 Senses gentle, perfumed wine that is ripe and deliciously 85 tive, ready-to-drink wine, a blend of Arinto 84 Alvarinho (Alentejano). A tropical fruit fla- fruity. It does have a more herbal, green side as well and Fernão Pires. Bright and fruity with plenty of vored wine with yellow fruits, pineapple and mango. as a tangy texture but the main impression is of a citrus freshness, it is lightly crisp and fresh at the It is soft and very ripe although still showing some wine that is soft and ready to drink. Palm Bay Inter- end. Opici Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. of the fresher acidity that should be in an Alvarinho national. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $8 wine. It’s a long way from the cool north of Portugal. abv: 13% Price: $NA Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. —R.V. Quinta da Lapa 2012 Tamarez (Tejo). This abv: 13% Price: $13 José Maria da Fonseca 2014 Periquita White 85 is an unusual white made from red Touriga 85 (Península de Setúbal). Fresh and fruity Nacional and white Tamarez. Bright lemon flavors with a crisp mineral and textured character, this is a are balanced by notes of apricot and richer fruit ALENTEJO lively wine that’s ready to drink. Acidity and a citrus tones. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. zestiness give a refreshing lightness at the end. Palm —R.V. Cartuxa 2013 Pêra-Manca Branco (Alentejo). Bay International. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13 95 The name of the wine goes back to the 15th abv: 12.5% Price: $10 century when it was exported to the Portuguese Terra Silvestre 2014 Arinto (Tejo). A lemon colonies. It is an iconic wine in Portugal, the white Wines & Winemakers 2014 Monta da Baía 85 flavored wine that’s crisp and fruity. The a blend of Antão Vaz and Arinto. Aged in wood, it 85 Branco (Península de Setúbal). This is a soft texture is soft with fruit and fresh acidity dominant.

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 With its refreshing aftertaste, the wine is ready to Adega Mãe 2014 Dory (Lisboa). A beautifully drink now. Vinamericas Selections. —R.V. 87 crisp wine produced by consultant Anselmo DOURO abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Mendes, this is as fresh as possible, bright with acidity and herbal hints. It’s light and very bright, Conceito Vinhos 2014 Conceito Branco (Dou- Wines & Winemakers 2014 Companhia das finishing with citrus and orange zest flavors. Aidil 91 ro). A full rich and ripe wine that has toast 84 Lezírias Tyto Alba Vinhas Protegidas Sau- Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. as well as juicy citrus and yellow fruit flavors. It’s a vignon Blanc (Tejo). This wine shows the tropical abv: 12.5% Price: $14 young wine, full of crisp fruitiness that will soften fruit side of Sauvignon Blanc with pineapple and and fill out. With its mineral texture, typical of Dou- mango flavors. The acidity is there, floral and ripe. Quinta do Pinto 2014 Vinhas do Lasso Colhei- ro whites, it is a wine for aging. Drink from 2017. M The wine is ready to drink now. Amara Imports LLC. 87 ta Seleccionada (Lisboa). A ripe full-bodied Imports, LLC. —R.V. —R.V. wine that is a blend of Arinto and Fernão Pires. It abv: 13% Price: $55 abv: 12.5% Price: $23 misses out on the normal freshness of both grapes, giving instead rich yellow fruits and perfumed Ramos-Pinto 2014 Duas Quintas Reserva Casal do Conde 2014 Galileu Branco (Tejo). A spice. There is some acidity, although not enough. 91 Branco (Douro). Celebrating its 25th anni- 83 light and gently fruity perfumed wine, this Comète Wines. —R.V. versary in 2015, this brand was the among the first has easy flavors of spice, pears and soft acidity. It is abv: 14% Price: $14 Douro still wines. This Reserva, with its wood-aged ready to drink. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. flavors, is rich and full of ripe white fruits while not abv: 12.5% Price: $9 Casa Santos Lima 2014 Palha-Canas Branco losing sight of the mineral texture of white wines 86 (Lisboa). This is a ripe wine that includes from the region. While it is drinkable now, it will Quinta do Casal Monteiro 2014 Terra de Tou- Chardonnay and Viognier in its blend. It has yel- be much better from 2018. Maisons Marques & Do- 83 ros Arinto (Tejo). A gentle light wine that low fruits that are cut with plenty of acidity. A cool, maines USA. —R.V. seems diluted. It has only hints of fruit and acidity, crisp element reminds that the vineyards are close abv: 13% Price: $30 all very easy and ripe to drink. The wine is ready. to the ocean. The wine is ready to drink. Multiple Iberian Wine Importers. —R.V. U.S. importers. Best Buy. —R.V. Conceito Vinhos 2014 Contraste Branco abv: 13% Price: $8 abv: 13% Price: $10 90 (Douro). Vineyards in the upper Douro Su- perior region are able to produce surprisingly fresh and fruity whites like this, despite the heat and dry LISBOA BAIRRADA climate. Old vines go into this yellow and green fruit flavored wine with its lively acidity and totally Quinta do Pinto 2014 Terras do Anjo Branco Campolargo 2013 Branco Barrica Arinto (Ba- refreshing palate. Drink from summer 2016. M Im- 91 (Lisboa). This is a creamy ripe wine, spicy 88 irrada). Wood fermentation still allows the ports, LLC. —R.V. and toasty in character with rich Chardonnay and Arinto grape to retain its natural crispness. At the abv: 13% Price: $19 local grapes to give a balanced texture. Acidity is same time, it gives it a perfumed spicy character there along with pineapple and white peach flavors. that enhances the juiciness of the wine and brings Quinta de Porrais 2014 Douro. From a vine- The rich rounded texture is generous and opulent. out the zesty texture. It’s fruity, fresh and ready to 89 yard created by Antonia Ferreira, the grande The wine needs to age, so drink from 2017. Comète drink. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. dame of the Douro, this wine is produced by one of Wines. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20 her descendants. It is fragrant, fresh and with great abv: 14% Price: $16 fruitiness. Initially soft and rounded it also has a Campolargo 2013 Vinha do Putto Branco (Ba- fine bite of acidity and a tight, mineral aftertaste. Herdade do Rocim 2014 Vale da Mata Branco 87 irrada). A full ripe and refreshingly fruity Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. 89 (Lisboa). From a small vineyard in the hills wine, this is full of grapefruit, apricot and ripe pear abv: 12.5% Price: $20 of the Lisbon region, this is a deliciously fresh and flavors. It has a touch of spice and a firmly mineral fruity wine. It has great acidity from the local Arinto character. Drink now. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. Quinta de Porrais 2014 Porrais (Douro). grapes that are blended with Antão Vaz and Viosin- abv: 13% Price: $14 89 Open and fruity, this is a fresh citrus and ho. Grapefruit and a crisp, zesty texture are refresh- green fruit flavored wine. It is light and crisp with ing and lively. Drink now. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. Campolargo 2012 Branco Barrica Bical (Ba- only a hint of texture, more in the way of enjoyable abv: 12.5% Price: $21 86 irrada). The Bical grape is often found in fruitiness. Drink now. Multiple U.S. importers. Best Bairrada’s sparkling wines. Here, aged in wood, it Buy. —R.V. Quinta do Pinto 2014 Estate Collection Bran- undergoes a metamorphosis. It is soft and smooth, abv: 12.5% Price: $13 89 co (Lisboa). This is a balanced wine that has lightly oxidized with the wood dominating the fruit- attractive citrus flavors, riper peach and pineapple iness. There are spices and a ripe feel that leaves Magnum Vinhos 2013 Tom de Baton Branco and a light apricot perfume from the Viognier in the a spicy tropical fruit aftertaste. M Imports, LLC. 88 (Douro). From a high-altitude vineyard in blend. It is rich while having plenty of freshness. —R.V. the heart of the Douro, this is a fruity while well Drink from late 2016. Comète Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 textured wine. With a strong mineral character that abv: 13.5% Price: $18 comes from the lees stirring during fermentation, it Adega de Cantanhede 2014 Marquês de has both bright citrus fruits with acidity and a more Quinta do Pinto 2014 Antão Vaz (Lisboa). 84 Marialva Colheita Seleccionada (Bairrada). tropical character. Drink now. Wine In-Motion. 88 This is a rich, very rich wine that is packed The wine is soft, lightly textured and perfumed. It —R.V. with tropical fruits, generous apricot and peach fla- has yellow fruits and ripe pear flavors along with abv: 13% Price: $15 vors and spice. It is full in the mouth, showing some a touch of ginger and spice. The wine is ready to pepper from the alcohol that spoils the otherwise drink. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. Poças 2014 Reserva Branco (Douro). A wood- fruity character. The aftertaste does introduce some abv: 12.5% Price: $11 88 aged wine that is ripe and smooth. It has freshness. Comète Wines. —R.V. only the barest hint of toastiness, the wood serving abv: 14% Price: $24

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more to fill out the rich fruitiness. It does need to perfumed and balanced. Drink now. Samandla Wine of tannin, much more in the way of gentle fruiti- age, so drink from 2017. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. ness. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 11% Price: $10 abv: 12.5% Price: $10

Wines & Winemakers 2014 Lua Cheia em Campelo 2014 Casal da Seara (Vinho Verde). Wines & Winemakers 2014 Monta da Baía 88 Vinhas Velhas Andreza Reserva Códega do 84 With a light prickle on the tongue, this is a 84 Rosé (Península de Setúbal). A fruity, young Larinho (Douro). An ancient variety now seen rarely, fresh and fruity wine that has sweetness balanced and crisp wine that is all about raspberry and red this Códega do Larinho has produced a wine that by a citric edge. It’s crisp and ready to drink. Sar- currant fruits. It is fresh with just a hint of caramel has a steely texture and tangy citrus flavors. It is mento’s Imports & Exports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. and with bright acidity at the end. Wine Without bright with acidity, lime and grapefruit fruits and abv: 9.5% Price: $6 Borders. —R.V. so crisp. It is ready to drink. Iberia Wine & Spirits abv: 12.5% Price: $12 LLC. —R.V. Campelo 2014 Vinho Verde. Almost bubbly abv: 12% Price: $18 83 with a lively mousse, this is a tangy citrus Campelo 2014 Rosé (Vinho Verde). Soft and and apple flavored wine that is unfortunately un- 82 sweet, this is a light and fruity wine. Touch- Poças 2014 Coroa d’Ouro Branco (Douro). balanced with an artificial sweetness at the end. es of raspberry are balanced by acidity. Drink now. 86 The wine is soft and smooth with yellow Sarmento’s Imports & Exports Inc. —R.V. Sarmento’s Imports & Exports Inc. —R.V. fruits and a light texture. It is ripe, generous balanc- abv: 11% Price: $10 abv: 10% Price: $10 ing fruit against the rounded perfumed structure. The wine is ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. Wines & Winemakers 2014 Companhia das abv: 13% Price: $12 ROSÉS 82 Lezírias Herdade de Catapereiro Rosé (Tejo). A strange orange-pink color for a wine that is some- H. Abrantes Douro Wines 2013 Vargosa Casa da Passarella 2014 O Brazileiro Rosé where between fruity and sweet and acid and bit- 85 Branco (Douro). A mineral textured wine 87 (Dão). A smooth and ripe rosé from Touriga ter. This one hasn’t found a balance. Iberia Wine & with stone fruits and attractive fresh acidity, it has Nacional and Tinta Roriz, this is a cherry and red Spirits LLC. —R.V. a lively citrus character that comes out of the bright berry flavored wine. It has weight and a rich texture abv: 13% Price: $12 citrus and green plum fruits. The wine is ready to that are balanced by the crisp raspberry and fresh drink. Sarmento’s Imports & Exports Inc. —R.V. apple brightness at the end. Drinkble beginning abv: 13% Price: $13 now. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. PORTUGAL abv: 13% Price: $14 Ramos-Pinto 2014 Duas Quintas Branco RED WINES 85 (Douro). This is a bright lemon and grape- José Maria da Fonseca 2014 Colecção Privada fruit flavored wine that has lively acidity and the 86 Roxo Rosé (Península de Setúbal). A light, ALENTEJANO lightest touch of mineral texture. It’s crisp, refresh- bright and fresh wine, the epitome of a fruity rosé, ing and will be ready to drink from mid-2016. Mai- this is made from Moscatel Roxo, a pink-skinned Herdade do Rocim 2011 Reserva (Alente- sons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. grape. It has plenty of lively acidity, a lightly per- 93 jano). The 170 acre Rocim estate has pro- abv: 13% Price: $12 fumed character and a final burst of red fruits. Palm duced a serious, dense and powerful wine. It is rich, Bay International. —R.V. powered by blackberry and dark plum and damson abv: 12.5% Price: $NA flavors. The acidity that’s there is enough to con- VINHO VERDE trast with the ripe fruitiness while the tannins and José Maria da Fonseca 2014 Periquita Rosé layers of wood flavors both promise considerable Wines & Winemakers 2014 Lua Cheia em 86 (Península de Setúbal). Just off-dry, this is aging. Drink from 2018. Langdon Shiverick. Editors’ 90 Vinhas Velhas Maria Papoila Escolha (Vinho a smooth, caramel and red fruit flavored wine. It has Choice. —R.V. Verde). For full review see page 13. plenty of acidity to balance its soft texture, with red abv: 14% Price: $24 abv: 11.5% Price: $20 currant freshness coming in at the end. Drink now. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —R.V. Terras de Alter 2012 Outeiro (Alentejano). Quinta de Soalheiro 2014 Vinho Verde. This abv: 12.5% Price: $10 93 The Herdade da Boavista vineyard has pro- 88 is a delicious refreshing wine with great duced a serious powerful wine. It has dark tarry acidity coupled with ripe white and yellow fruits. Herdade do Rocim 2014 Mariana Rosé (Alen- tannins with concentrated black fruits and a dense The richness is cut by minerality, fragrant acidity 84 tejano). Ripe and fruity, this is a rich style structure. It is big and solid in all senses, while still and lemon curd. It is still young and will be better of rosé. A blend of and Aragonez, it keeping a surprising amount of elegance with its from 2016. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. is full of ripe raspberry and red plum flavors that are fresh fruits and juicy aftertaste. Drink from 2018. abv: 12.5% Price: $21 soft and generous, although lacking acidity. Drink Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. now. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Campelo 2014 Miranda (Vinho Verde). This abv: 12.5% Price: $14 85 fresh wine shows fruit tones balanced by Herdade do Rocim 2012 Olho de Mocho a light mineral note. It is bright with acidity and Quintas de Melgaço 2014 Lagar Rosé (Vinho 92 Reserva (Alentejano). This is an impressive grapefruit flavors alongside a crisp aftertaste. Drink 84 Verde). A sweet rosé that is light and fresh still young wine. With its dense texture and pow- now. Sarmento’s Imports & Exports Inc. Best Buy. from the crisp raspberry acidity. It is bright and erful tannins it is concentrated, packed with ripe —R.V. fruity, ready to drink. EcoValley. —R.V. berry flavors and juicy acidity. It is bold, certainly abv: 10% Price: $10 abv: 10.5% Price: $12 not reticent, made for some long-term aging. Drink from 2018. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. Campelo 2014 Tres Castas (Vinho Verde). Terras de Alter 2014 Terra d’Alter Rosé (Alen- abv: 14.5% Price: $42 85 This is an attractive wine that is crisp while 84 tejano). A blend of Touriga Nacional and also having a soft background texture. It is fruity, Aragonez, this is a soft wine, fruity with ripe red and Terras de Alter 2013 Terra d’Alter Alicante white fruit flavors. It is a light wine with only a hint 92 Bouschet (Alentejano). This firm, powerful

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 and structured wine is rich with tannins and dark Wines & Winemakers 2013 Album Reserva be better with another six months of bottle aging, fruits. Spice and wood flavors compete with the 91 (Alentejano). Made mainly from a rare com- so wait until mid- 2016. Artisan Vines Distributing. ground coffee and juicy fruitiness. A concentrated bination of Alicante Bouschet and Petit Verdot, this Best Buy. —R.V. wine for the long-term, it needs to age, . Drink from results in a wine that is both dark colored and tan- abv: 15% Price: $14 2017. Artisan Vines Distributing. Best Buy. —R.V. nic. It is tough, powerful and concentrated, needing abv: 14.5% Price: $14 considerable aging for its rich black plum fruit to Herdade do Rocim 2013 Mariana (Alenteja- come out. Drink from 2018. Eastern Wine Distribu- 88 no). This is a full and spicy wine that is rich Terras de Alter 2012 Terra d’Alter Reserva tors. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. with black plum and berry flavors. The wood comes 92 (Alentejano). Still firm with tannins and a abv: 14% Price: $18 through strongly with its cedar and pepper charac- dark structure, this is a wine that shows style as ter. The contrast with fresher acidity gives this wine well as potential. It has flavors from the wood aging Magnum Vinhos 2013 Flor de Maio Tinto its balance. Drink now. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. although these are integrating with the black plum 90 (Alentejano). This is a rich wine with abv: 14% Price: $15 skin and dark berry flavors. The wine still needs to smooth tannins that are integrated into the ripe age, so drink from 2018. Artisan Vines Distributing. black fruits. It’s packed with juicy fruitiness. It also José Maria da Fonseca 2012 José de Sousa Editors’ Choice. —R.V. has a dry core and acidity, both of which will allow 88 (Alentejano). This is an open juicy and abv: 15% Price: $22 the wine to age. Concentrated, it is ready to drink fruity wine. It has soft tannins and perfumed acid- now, although it will be better from 2017. Wine In- ity that is already integrated into the structure of Herdade do Rocim 2012 Red (Alentejano). Motion. Best Buy. —R.V. the wine. With blackberry and red plum flavors, it 91 This is a super-ripe, still very young wine. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 is easy and generous, ready to drink now. Palm Bay It’s showing all its concentrated fruits, wood aging International. —R.V. flavors and dense texture as well as the firm tan- Magnum Vinhos 2012 Maria Mora Enamo- abv: 14% Price: $20 nins that will allow it to age. With its combination 90 rada (Alentejano). Despite its richness, this of black plum skin, blackberry and dark concentra- is a stylish wine that exudes freshness as much as Magnum Vinhos 2013 Maria Mora (Alente- tion, leave the wine until 2018. Langdon Shiverick. dense fruit and structure. A blend of Touriga Nacio- 88 jano). This is a dense wine with firm tan- —R.V. nal, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, all structured nins and a solid structure. The black currant fruits abv: 14% Price: $23 varieties, it still yields a generous full-bodied and are stalky and still developing, along with the acid- rounded wine. It does need to age, so drink from ity. It’s a lean wine and needs to age for a few more Herdade do Rocim 2011 Grande Rocim Reserva 2018. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. months to fill out, so drink from 2017. Wine In-Mo- 91 Alicante Bouschet (Alentejano). The top wine abv: 14.5% Price: $45 tion. Best Buy. —R.V. in the Rocim range is produced from selected Ali- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 cante Bouschet grapes. It is huge and powerful, per- Terras de Alter 2013 Terra d’Alter Touriga Na- haps too much in its concentration, richness and 90 cional (Alentejano). From the cooler hilly Terras de Alter 2014 Terra d’Alter (Alente- density. Dark and brooding, it is super everything northern Alentejo, this is a structured and firm 88 jano). A youthful wine that is just packed and certainly needs to calm down. Drink from 2019. wine. It has good tannins and a mineral texture that with fruit. It is a blend of Trincadeira, Aragonez and Langdon Shiverick. Cellar Selection. —R.V. is still developing. It also has a fine juicy black plum Syrah. Juicy, ripe and rich with black plum flavors, abv: 15% Price: $130 character that will fill out over the next few months. it is a delicious wine already. Drink now. Artisan Drink from the end of 2016. Artisan Vines Distrib- Vines Distributing. Best Buy. —R.V. Magnum Vinhos 2011 Maria Mora Reserva uting. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $10 91 (Alentejano). Full of black fruits, the wine is abv: 14% Price: $14 solid, still very dense and young. Dark chocolate and Terras de Alter 2013 Terra d’Alter Alfrocheiro coffee flavors give a bitter edge to the dense tannins, Herdade do Rocim 2013 Alicante Bouschet 87 (Alentejano). Normally found in the Dão re- which need to be allowed to soften. Its black fruits 89 (Alentejano). The red juiced Alicante Bous- gion further north, the Alfrocheiro in Alentejo pro- and acidity are exuberant, and the wine will mature chet has produced a powerful and generous wine duces a soft wine with light tannins and juicy acid- well. Drink from 2019. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. that’s rich and full of southern sun as well as dark ity. Flavors of cherries and red plums give it a fruity abv: 14% Price: $15 black fruits. It is concentrated and impressive with aspect. It is warm, rich and ready to drink. Artisan its ripe flavors. Foot-trodden in open fermenters, it Vines Distributing. —R.V. Terras de Alter 2013 Terra d’Alter Aragonês is full and generous needing to age until 2017. Lang- abv: 14% Price: $14 91 (Alentejano). This is a rich, full-bodied wine don Shiverick. —R.V. that is ready to drink now. It still has a dry core of abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2013 Senses tannins, although they are overwhelmed by the rich, 86 Syrah (Alentejano). While the wine is very juicy black fruits and generous texture. It’s a con- J. Portugal Ramos 2013 Vila Santa Reserva ripe in character, it is also finely structured and centrated wine, high in alcohol, although that is re- 89 (Alentejano). This is a fine rich balanced generous while still keeping a sense of proportion. ally balanced by the fresh aftertaste. Artisan Vines wine. It has ripe fruits that suggest black currants, It is dense, full of blackberry jelly flavors that are Distributing. Best Buy. —R.V. blackberries and a tight, stalky, mineral element. At balanced by a final burst of acidity. Drink now, al- abv: 15% Price: $14 the same time, it’s generous, full of juicy acidity to though better from early 2017. Luiz’s Grocery And contrast with the dusty tannin layer that keeps it all Liquors. —R.V. Terras de Alter 2011 Telhas (Alentejano). A together. Drink now. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15 91 classic northern Rhône valley blend of Syrah abv: 14% Price: $20 with a touch of Viognier, this massive wine is made Cartuxa 2014 EA Tinto (Alentejano). Round- from grapes grown on granite soil, which leaves its Terras de Alter 2014 Terra d’Alter Zero SO2 86 ed, smooth and fruity, this is an attractive mark in dense minerality and great power. It is a 89 Aragonês (Alentejano). Proudly boasting wine. With its light texture and acidity that balance wine for lovers of the big stuff, concentrated and that there were no added sulphites in the winemak- the juicy black fruits, it is ripe while also poised. needing to age. Drink from 2018. Artisan Vines Dis- ing process, this is a structured wine, firm with tan- The aftertaste is fresh and fruity. Tri-Vin Imports. tributing. —R.V. nins that are backed with some juicy berry fruits. It Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $30 is made to be drunk young although, in fact, it will abv: 14.5% Price: $9

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Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2013 Senses surely. Drink from 2018. Wine In-Motion. Editors’ 85 Touriga Nacional (Alentejano). Big and bold, Choice. —R.V. PENÍNSULA DE SETÚBAL this is a massive Touriga Nacional, emphasizing the abv: 14.5% Price: $22 structure as much as the fruit. It has a rich black Wines & Winemakers 2013 Monta da Baía plum character that is paired with firm wood and Cartuxa 2011 Foral de Evora Tinto Colheita 92 Reserva (Península de Setúbal). This is a fruit tannins and a ripe juicy aftertaste. It could do 92 (Alentejo). Named after the city of Evora, powerful wine, perfumed and ripe. Its aromas come with a year’s aging, so drink from early 2017. Luiz’s capital of Alentejo and close to the winery, this is from the Touriga Nacional in the blend that also in- Grocery And Liquors. —R.V. a finely made impressive wine. While it is rich, it’s cludes Syrah and Alicante Bouschet. It’s a dark and abv: 14% Price: $15 ripe, smooth and packed with berry fruits as well as dense wine, very rich with enough juicy black fruit balanced tannins. It is still developing and although to balance. The concentration and tannins suggest Herdade do Rocim 2013 Touriga Nacional it can be drunk soon, it will be better aged for sev- long aging, so don’t drink before 2019. Eastern Wine 85 (Alentejano). The wine is still young, still eral more years. Ideally, wait until 2018. Tri-Vin Im- Distributors. —R.V. shockingly full of acidity and black currant fruits ports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 that are backed by tannins. It needs time to calm abv: 14.5% Price: $28 down, to fill out with richer fruitiness. Drink from José Maria da Fonseca 2013 Periquita Reser- 2017. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2012 Premium 90 va (Península de Setúbal). For full review abv: 14% Price: $15 91 (Alentejo). It is the ripe dark Alicante Bous- see page 12. Editors’ Choice. chet that dominates this firmly structured wine. It abv: 13% Price: $16 Cartuxa 2014 Vinea Tinto (Alentejano). is packed with tannins along with a hugely dense 84 Made to be drunk young, this is a fruity red texture and concentrated juicy berry flavors. It is Wines & Winemakers 2013 Monta da Baía berry flavored wine. It has a bright crisp edge to its very firm, still young. Wait until 2017. Luiz’s Gro- 84 (Península de Setúbal). With some earthy, fruit as well as light tannins and acidity. It is quite cery And Liquors. Best Buy. —R.V. rustic flavors the wine seems to have missed out on ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15 some of its fruit. It is more about structure and firm abv: 13.5% Price: $7 tannins with only hints of juicy fruit behind. East- Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2009 Garrafeira ern Wine Distributors. —R.V. 91 (Alentejo). A Garrafeira wine is a special abv: 13.5% Price: $12 ALENTEJO selection and this wine, which was aged for 30 months after bottling before being released, shows Mouchão 2010 Alentejo. The estate wine of its quality quickly. Now reaching drinkability, its TEJO 95 Mouchão is serious, dense and complex. It tannins have softened leaving rich full black currant is a wine that’s made for the long haul, still with and fresh acidity along with a more mature leathery Quinta da Lapa 2011 Nana Reserva (Tejo). its youthful tannins that are balanced by juicy black character. Drink now and until 2020. Luiz’s Grocery 90 This is a smooth and fruity wine that is fruits. There is a leathery texture that is developing And Liquors. —R.V. named after the matriarch of the family. It has some alongside the fruit. It is dark and solid, likely to age abv: 14.5% Price: $42 structure and a dry core, although it is the rich red for many years. Drink from 2020. Wine In-Motion. and black fruits that create its main character. It is Cellar Selection. —R.V. Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2013 Reser- developing well, with a fine juicy streak. Drink from abv: 14% Price: $46 88 va (Alentejo). A year’s barrel aging has 2017. D’Ouro Vino Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. smoothed the firm tannins of the dark berry fruits abv: 13% Price: $13 Cartuxa 2012 Reserva Tinto (Alentejo). This in this wine. It is still very structured with layers of 94 is an impressive wine that is rich and gen- tannins and a dark smoky almost bitter character. Quinta do Arrobe 2012 Quinto Elemento erous while also being firm and structured. It has a It really needs some time to open up, so wait until 88 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Tejo). This is sense of concentration and power that doesn’t take 2018. Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. —R.V. a big ripe wine full of juicy sweet plum flavors and away from its elegance. A fresh black currant tone abv: 13.5% Price: $18 dark dense tannins. It is still young with a bitter is balanced by tannins and a lingering flavor of oak. edge from the toasty wood aging. The wine, with its Already showing good integration, this wine will be Mouchão 2012 Dom Rafael (Alentejo). structure and firm texture, will need more time so ready to drink soon. Drink from 2017. Tri-Vin Im- 88 Produced as a wine that is ready to drink drink from 2017. Simões Imports. —R.V. ports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. young, this comes from the 100-year old Mouchão abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 15% Price: $59 winery. It is fresh with red fruits along with a dry structure, although it is the fruits that win out. Terra Silvestre 2014 Bátoreus Selection Cartuxa 2012 Colheita (Alentejo). This is a Fresh and bright, it will be ready to drink from 2017. 88 (Tejo). This is a rich wine dominated by 93 serious, concentrated wine that is full of Wine In-Motion. Best Buy. —R.V. ripe Alicante Bouschet that gives some firm tannins generous fruit and structure. Alongside this weight, abv: 13.5% Price: $11 as well as juicy red berry fruits. It is ripe, well bal- there is a lighter, juicier side from vibrant acidity. anced and likely to age well over the next few years. The main thrust though is concentrated tannins Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2014 Alentejo. Drink from 2017. Vinamericas Selections. —R.V. that are still developing. The aftertaste is dense and 86 A young and fruity wine that is made to be abv: 13.5% Price: $16 shows the wine needs to age. Drink from 2019. Tri- drunk young. It has soft tannins, red berry fruits Vin Imports. —R.V. and a juicy fresh character. Full of fruit with just a Fiuza 2014 3 Castas (Tejo). The wine is abv: 14% Price: $48 light structure, it can be drunk now. Luiz’s Grocery 87 young, still more structure than fruit. It And Liquors. Best Buy. —R.V. has firm tannins as well as juicy blackberry fruits. Mouchão 2011 Ponte das Canas (Alentejo). A abv: 13.5% Price: $9 A blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga 93 blend based on Alicante Bouschet, this ripe Nacional, it is likely to age for a few months, so and rich wine is appropriately dark in color. It is a drink from the end of 2016. Gabriella Importers Inc. firm wine, full of juicy black plum fruits and dense Best Buy. —R.V. tannins. With weight and considerable richness, abv: 12.5% Price: $10 it is a complex wine that is developing slowly but

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Terra Silvestre 2013 Tejo. The wine is struc- flavors. It does have some blackberry fruitiness wine. It has a deep color from the Alicante Bouschet 87 tured, flavored with the wood aging as much under its more rustic character. The aftertaste has in the blend, with firm tannins and dark juicy plum as the fruit. It has a spicy burnt character that con- acidity and a bitter edge. Saraiva Enterprises. —R.V. skin flavors. It’s going to be a ripe rich wine as it trasts with the more juicy black currant flavors. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA develops. Drink from 2017. Multiple U.S. importers. Drink from 2017. Vinamericas Selections. —R.V. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Quinta do Arrobe 2012 Oculto (Tejo). A wine abv: 14% Price: $13 83 that is strangely hollow with structure and Fiuza 2014 Native Touriga Nacional-Cab- juicy fruit around a hole in the center. Spice and red Quinta do Pinto 2012 Pinto Merlot-Syrah 86 ernet Sauvignon (Tejo). Considering both berry flavors are contrasted with dry tannins that 88 (Lisboa). A ripe and juicy wine, this is rich grapes in the blend are known for their tannic may not soften. Simões Imports. —R.V. with black fruits. Soft tannins and a stalky backdrop structure, this is ripe and open. It is fruity with abv: 13.5% Price: $NA make it very approachable when young. So drink red berry flavors and acidity to balance. There is a this full fruity wine now. Comète Wines. —R.V. round soft aftertaste. Drink now. Gabriella Import- abv: 14% Price: $24 ers Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. PALMELA abv: 13% Price: $10 Wines & Winemakers 2012 Pegos Claros BAIRRADA Fiuza 2014 Oceanus Touriga Nacional-Cab- 93 Vinhas Velhas Reserva (Palmela). For full 86 ernet Sauvignon (Tejo). This is a solid and review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. Adega de Cantanhede 2009 Foral de Can- textured wine, bringing out structure and black abv: 13.5% Price: $18 93 tanhede Grande Reserva Baga (Bairrada). fruit flavors. The wine has acidity and a fresher Pure Baga in all its glory, packed with dry and dark background giving shape to the ripe fruits. Drink Wines & Winemakers 2012 Pegos Claros tannins and a brooding character that is mitigated now. Gabriella Importers Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 92 Grande Escolha (Palmela). A powerful wine by the rich dark plum and blackberry jelly flavors. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 that has licorice and black coffee flavors as well as It’s a wine that is probably at its peak, still with its ripe plum and berry fruits. The balance is there, tannins and structure although now with rich fruits Quinta da Alorna 2013 Touriga Nacional along with a solid structural base and acidity. The and intense final acidity. Drink now and until 2022. 86 (Tejo). There is a good balance in this wine dense wine has power, rich and ripe for develop- Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. between fresh berry fruits and a firmer structure so ment. Drink from 2018. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. abv: 14% Price: $80 the tannins are present while never hiding the at- —R.V. tractive fruitiness. Simple and one-dimensional, it abv: 14% Price: $40 Adega de Cantanhede 2010 Marquês de Mar- is still attractive and ready to drink. Opici Wines. 92 ialva Grande Reserva (Bairrada). The wine is —R.V. Wines & Winemakers 2012 Pegos Claros Col- a rich blend of Baga and Touriga Nacional that is abv: 12.5% Price: $13 87 heita Castelão (Palmela). Still with its firm ripe and juicy with solid tannins and generous black tannins in place and with layers of wood aging fla- fruits. There are firm tannins that will probably al- Quinta do Arrobe 2012 Quinto Elemento vors, this is obviously a young wine. It has a back- ways be a part of the wine along with acidity and 86 Reserva Syrah (Tejo). This is a rich wine ground of ripe berry fruits and acidity that will de- black plum richness. The wood aging has helped to showing jammy blackberry flavors against pro- velop over the next two years. It is potentially rich smooth the wine on the way, while still promising nounced alcohol. The acidity at the end does pro- and full. Drink from 2017. Wine Without Borders. further development. Drink from 2017. Aidil Wines/ vide a lighter, fresher lift. Simões Imports. —R.V. —R.V. Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $30

Quinta do Casal Monteiro 2012 Forma de Adega de Cantanhede 2012 Marquês de Mar- 86 Arte Reserva (Tejo). An immediately attrac- LISBOA 89 ialva Reserva (Bairrada). This is a rich and tive fruity wine that’s half-and-half Touriga Na- juicy wine, balancing the firm tannins of the Baga cional and Cabernet Sauvignon. Neither of the two Quinta do Pinto 2012 Terras do Anjo Tinto with richer fruitiness of Touriga Nacional and Tinta grapes’ natural tannins show in this wine with its 93 (Lisboa). This blend of Touriga Nacional Roriz. It is still young, still showing layers of firm soft texture and blackberry fruitiness. It is ready to and Castelão has produced an impressive wine tannins although with plenty of development po- drink. Iberian Wine Importers. —R.V. that is packed with rich tannins and a dark brood- tential. Drink from 2017. Aidil Wines/Old World abv: 13% Price: $15 ing structure. Intense acidity cuts through the rich, Import. —R.V. powerful texture to give a fresh aftertaste. It is still abv: 13% Price: $15 Terra Silvestre 2014 Bátoreus (Tejo). The young, so drink from 2018. Comète Wines. Editors’ 85 wine is soft, ripe and fruity. With a smooth Choice. —R.V. Adega de Cantanhede 2010 Marquês de Mar- line in tannins, it is open and full of black currant abv: 14% Price: $17 88 ialva Baga (Bairrada). After five years, the and berry flavors. The acidity gives a fine lift at the Baga is beginning to soften to create a structured end. Drink now. Vinamericas Selections. —R.V. Quinta do Pinto 2012 Estate Collection Tinto while generously fruity wine. It has acidity and a abv: 13% Price: $13 92 (Lisboa). This is a powerful, ripe and in- solid tannic base which is topped by black currant tense wine. It has layers of juicy black fruits that and berry fruits and followed by a richly juicy after- Casal do Conde 2014 Galileu Tinto (Tejo). are sustained by acidity and even more by the dense taste. The crisp, crunchy aftertaste is typical of the 84 The wine is soft, light and stalky. It is made dusty tannins. It is structured and firm with the grape as it matures. Drink now and until 2022. Aidil to be drunk young with its fresh red berry fruits, wood aging giving spice. Drink this fine wine from Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy. —R.V. acidity and only a minimum of tannins. Drink now. 2018. Comète Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 Value Vines LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $19 abv: 12.5% Price: $9 Casa Santos Lima 2013 Stones & Bones (Lis- Casal da Coelheira 2011 Terraços do Tejo 90 boa). Produced from vines grown in a boul- 83 (Tejo). This is an earthy wine with barnyard der and fossil strewn vineyard, this is a rich smoky

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is impressively ripe and concentrated. Dark tan- a few more months. Drink from 2017. Aveleda Im- DÃO nins, brooding black plum flavors and a solid age ports. Best Buy. —R.V. worthy structure will allow this wine to age. Drink abv: 13.5% Price: $9 Caves Velhas 2013 Catedral (Dão). The wine from 2018. Winesellers, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 90 is both ripe and structured at the same abv: NA Price: $20 Poças 2013 Coroa d’Ouro (Douro). This is time. It is has a finely textured mineral character 88 open and generous, a soft wine that will be that’s typical of the Dão region. Rich berry and spicy Ramos-Pinto 2013 Duas Quintas Reserva ready to drink soon. It still has some firm structure fruits are dominant with attractive acidity. Behind 92 (Douro). A powerful dense wine that is rich although that serves as a support to the blackberry this fruit, the tannins give a fine shape to a wine and firmly structured, so it has big bold black fruit fruit flavors. The aftertaste is juicy and fresh. Tri- that is ready to drink now. Prestige Wine & Spirits flavors that are still firmly embedded in dark tan- Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. Group. Best Buy. —R.V. nins. It is a fine complex wine, the fruit of two of abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $12 Ramos-Pinto’s quintas in the Douro Superior. Keep this wine until 2018 at least. Celebrating its 25th Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 2011 Wines & Winemakers 2013 Azul Portugal anniversary in 2015, this brand was the among the 87 Pomares (Douro). This is a solid mineral 88 (Dão). This blend of Jaén, Alfrocheiro, first Douro still wines. Maisons Marques & Do- and tannin dominated wine. It has black currant Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz is ripe and juicy, maines USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. fruits which are still buried by the tense tannins with black fruit tones. It does have a structure that abv: 14.5% Price: $41 and stalky texture. It therefore needs some time to will allow the wine to age for a few years, so drink develop and broaden out. Drink from 2018. VOS Se- from late 2016. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. José Maria da Fonseca 2013 Domini (Douro). lections. —R.V. —R.V. 91 For full review see page 14. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $15 Wines & Winemakers 2013 Lua Cheia em Magnum Vinhos 2012 Tom de Baton (Douro). 87 Vinhas Velhas Andreza Reserva (Douro). The DOURO 91 Dark, structured and bringing out the has a fat fruity texture along with acidity and minerality of the Douro, this is a dense and tannic plenty of tannins. It is austere in character, very dry Quinta de la Rosa 2013 La Rosa Reserva wine at this stage. It has layers of black currant, rich and dense and with a serious intent. There is a juicy 94 (Douro). The top wine from La Rosa is pro- and full of juicy acidity. The wine really needs to aftertaste that is more attractive and has promise duced out of selections from the vineyards and the age, so drink from 2017. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. for the future. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. cellar. Wood aged and with serious concentration, it abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 is packed with dark fruits and dense tannins. They contrast with the generous texture and acidity. The Wines & Winemakers 2011 Aguia Moura em Wines & Winemakers 2013 Lua Cheia em wine should really age for several years. Drink from 91 Vinhas Velhas Garrafeira (Douro). Produced 87 Vinhas Velhas Colleja (Douro). A classic 2019. Winesellers, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. from old vines, this is a serious and concentrated Douro blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca abv: 14% Price: $55 wine. It has a strong mineral texture that adds to and Tinta Roriz makes a harmonious wine that has the dark tannins to make a forceful structure. Pow- ripe berry fruits and a soft structure. It is a stylish Conceito Vinhos 2012 Conceito (Douro). This ered by the structure and the black fruits it will age wine with a fresh fruity aftertaste. Drink now. Iberia 93 big and rich wine is succulent and gener- well. Start drinking in 2018. Best Brands Incorpo- Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. ous. Firm tannins show strongly through the ripe rated. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 juicy black currant fruits. Full of the strong miner- abv: 14% Price: $40 ality typical of the Douro, this wine and its dry core Conceito Vinhos 2014 Bastardo (Douro). still needs time to age. Drink from 2018. M Imports, Adega de Favaios 2012 Casa Velha Colheita 86 This wine is made from the Bastardo grape LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 90 Seleccionada (Douro). A strongly wood which, as its name suggests, is tough to handle and abv: 14% Price: $55 aged wine, powered by tannins and dense fruits, it rarely found. Very light in color and with a rustic is concentrated and still young enough for the wood flavor, the wine is light with hints of red berry fruits. Duorum 2012 Reserva Old Vines (Douro). The to show through although the fruit is developing A curiosity. Drink now. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. 93 old vine vineyard gives all the structure and well. This is a structured wine that will need plenty abv: 13.5% Price: $32 concentration to this rich wine. It is dense, tightly of time to age so drink from 2018. Aidil Wines/Old structured with mineral and fruit tannins. There is World Import. —R.V. H. Abrantes Douro Wines 2011 LVW (Douro). a ripe juicy background of plum jelly and acidity. It abv: 14% Price: $33 86 The wine is rich, possibly too rich with is a wine that is still developing, so wait until 2017. its dark tannins and tarry character. While there Winebow. —R.V. Poças 2013 Vale de Cavalos (Douro). From are plenty of black plum fruits, there is also some abv: 14% Price: $45 90 grapes grown in the Douro Superior region, bitter licorice that comes from extraction during this is an open delicious fruity and ripe wine that is winemaking. Considering its age, it is likely this Magnum Vinhos 2011 Baton (Douro). This ready to drink. Its black currant and red berry tastes character will remain. The wine is ready to drink. 92 is a dark chocolate and licorice flavored are balanced by spice, wood aged flavors and a core Sarmento’s Imports & Exports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. wine with great tannins and minerality as well as of tannins. The aftertaste introduces fresh juicy abv: 14% Price: $10 black plum fruits. It is concentrated and powerful acidity. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. and still so young. Dense and brooding, it will need abv: 14% Price: $18 Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo many more years to mature, so drink from 2019. 86 2011 Unoaked Cuvée (Douro). The aim of Wine In-Motion. —R.V. Aveleda 2013 Charamba Reserva (Douro). this wine presumably is to show off the fruit quality abv: 14.5% Price: $20 89 The reserve version of this wine has extra from the quinta. It does succeed, but at the expense richness and concentration. Solid tannins are filled of complexity and richness. So the wine is tight Quinta das Bandeiras 2013 Passagem Reser- out with ripe juicy blackberry fruits and perfumed with tannins and edgy with a texture that is dry and 92 va (Douro). Almost black in color, this pow- acidity. The wine is concentrated and could age for erful wine from vines in the Douro Superior region

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 firm. Give it another year until 2017 before drink- erous dried prune flavors along with the firmer tan- lettuce and herbs culminate with mild bitterness ing. VOS Selections. —R.V. nins. Drink this from 2020. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. and green notes. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 20% Price: $65 abv: 12.5% Price: $10

H. Abrantes Douro Wines 2011 Vargosa (Dou- Quinta da Alorna NV Abafado 5 years Fernão Bodegas Valdemar 2014 Inspiración Valde- 84 ro). The initial shock is of intense acidity. 87 Pires (Tejo). This is a honeyed wine that re- 84 mar Alto Cantabria (Rioja). Green grassy Only after a while, do the structure and the fruit tains fruitiness while having a rich character. The aromas are modest and watery. This feels oily, but show. It makes this an unbalanced wine, the struc- spirit used in fortifying it gives the wine a burnt va- with decent acidity. Oxidized flavors of stone fruits ture out of kilter with the fruit. Sarmento’s Imports nilla flavor that is balanced with ripe apricots and finish wheaty, bland and eggy. Terlato Wines Inter- & Exports Inc. —R.V. fresh final acidity. It is bottled to be drunk immedi- national. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13 ately. Opici Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 abv: 17.5% Price: $20 Navardia 2014 Organic (Rioja). Waxy peach VINHO VERDE 84 and apple aromas come with a leesy cookie- SPAIN like component. This is 50% each Sauvignon Blanc Campelo 2014 Vinho Verde. Tight with and Garnacha Blanca, and it feels both plump and 82 shocking acidity, this wine confirms that red WHITE WINES watery. Flavors of quince and apple are diluted and Vinho Verde can often be an acquired taste, perhaps distant, while the finish is mild. Winesellers, Ltd. best left to the local market back in Portugal. Sar- TERRA ALTA —M.S. mento’s Imports & Exports Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 10% Price: $10 Edetària 2013 Selecció Blanc (Terra Alta). 88 Waxy aromas of lanolin, dried apple and Vivanco 2014 Rioja. A light tan color and cheese set up a plump well-balanced palate, with 84 dusty sweaty aromas of apricot, matchstick MOSCATEL DO DOURO plenty of body weight and adequate acidity. Peach, and onion set up a clampy, pithy, citrusy palate. Fla- apple and melon flavors are moderately stony and vors of nectarine and orange are mild, low on stuff- Adega de Favaios 1980 Moscatel do Douro. minerally, while this varietal Garnacha Blanca fin- ing and grabby on the finish. Opici Wines. —M.S. 93 Richly golden in color, this Moscatel is ishes with good length. Ripe Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 grown on the plateau high above the Douro Valley. abv: 14% Price: $30 Long wood aging has masked much of the typical varietal character, yet yields a rich wine that has Edetària 2014 Via Edetana (Terra Alta). Va- REUDA concentrated over the years and is now ready to be 87 nilla and bitter peach-pit aromas open this enjoyed. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. blend of 70% Garnacha Blanca with 30% Viognier. Marqués de Irún 2014 (Rueda). This abv: 17.5% Price: $137/500 ml In the mouth, this is round, with healthy acidity. 87 is a solid Verdejo with stony aromas of cit- Waxy melony flavors are further softened by lees rus fruits, grapefruit in particular. A palate with Adega de Favaios 1999 Colheita (Mosca- and vanilla notes, while the finish is creamy and a citric acidity creates a fresh platform for orange and 90 tel do Douro). This wood-aged, fortified touch flat. Ripe Wine Imports. —M.S. grapefruit flavors. A round plump finish with briny Moscatel has retained its fruitiness while also abv: 13.5% Price: $18 citrus flavors is a good ending. Europvin USA.Best showing older, wood and toast flavors. Perfumed Buy. —M.S. and fragrant, with integrated acidity, enjoy this of- Altavins 2014 Almodí Petit (Terra Alta). abv: 12.5% Price: $11 fering soon. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. 85 Dusty, citrusy aromas of pineapple turn abv: 18.5% Price: $137 more tropical with airing. This is 60% Garnacha Bodegas Copaboca 2014 Peramor Verdejo Blanca, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Sauvignon 84 (Rueda). A gaseous smelling nose and a Adega de Favaios NV 10 Anos (Moscatel Blanc, and it’s a bit flat on the palate. Flavors of chunky palate are not motivational, while flavors of 88 do Douro). As with tawny Ports, the other white fruits are candied but also bitter, while this banana and melon aren’t much better. Overall, this Douro , Moscatel, is aged in wood for finishes with honeyed sweetness offset by pithy bit- is a basic Verdejo that’s starting to fade. Vinaio Im- an average of a decade. In this 10-year old, the wine terness. Saranty Imports. —M.S. ports. —M.S. still has its fruit, but it is just starting to show old abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 wood aging flavors that are beginning to concen- trate it. There is a strongly perfumed, spicy after- Egeo 2014 Verdejo (Rueda). Offering a flat taste. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. RIOJA 84 opening with no kick, it is akin to sniffing Best Buy. —R.V. apple juice. This is plump and wan in feel, with mel- abv: 17% Price: $11 Ostatu 2014 Blanco (Rioja). This blend of on and banana flavors, while a soft, no-edge finish 85 Viura and is mild, low on aro- doesn’t leave much of a lasting impression. Grapes matic punch and suggestive of saline solution. This of Spain. —M.S. OTHER SWEET WINES is friendly but flat in feel, with modest structure. abv: 13% Price: $13 Leesy flavors of peach and apple finish chalky and José Maria da Fonseca 2010 Alambre grabby. De Maison Selections, Inc. —M.S. Valdelainos 2014 Verdejo (Rueda). This is an 90 (Moscatel de Setúbal). For full review see abv: 13% Price: $16 82 underripe stench bomb with pyrazines com- page 12. ing at you from every direction. The nose is like a abv: 18% Price: $16 Baron De Ley 2014 Rioja. Leesy, creamy aro- bowl of cactus and nettle, while the palate is harsh. 84 mas of vanilla are simple, with a note of ap- Flavors of bitter pithy grapefruit show all that can Poças 2013 Vintage Port. While 2013 was ple offering some crispness. The palate is regular in go wrong with this variety. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. 90 not a great Port year, it produced some at- feel, with adequate acidity. Flavors of green apple, abv: 12.5% Price: $14 tractive Vintage wines such as this one. It is likely to develop quickly, already showing ripe fruit and gen-

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ample with a long stony citrusy finish. XLS Imports. Marqués de Murrieta 2014 Pazo Barrantes —M.S. 87 (Rías Baixas). Floral leesy aromas of chunky abv: 13% Price: $20 stone fruits and citrus come with a green note of K5 Argiñano 2013 Getariako Txakolina. Tar- lettuce leaf. This feels round and a touch oily, while 90 geted aromas of citrus, apple, grass and Granbazán 2014 Etiqueta Verde (Rías briny mildly bitter flavors of citrus finish pithy. minerals precede a lemony laser-sharp palate that 89 Baixas). Light fleshy aromas of peach and Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —M.S. sweats the insides of one’s cheeks with battery level apricot lead to a tight juicy direct palate with pure, abv: 13% Price: $20 acidity. Chiseled flavors of lemon and green apple unadulterated flavors of pineapple, tangerine and finish long, pure and persistent. Classic Wines. apple. A crisp stony finish is fresh and in fine shape. Nora 2014 Rías Baixas. A positive bouquet —M.S. This is a textbook racy Albariño to drink right away. 87 of melon, white flowers and honey leads to abv: 11.5% Price: $29 Europvin USA. —M.S. a ripped acidic palate that generates tangy, almost abv: 12.5% Price: $18 sharp flavors of orange and gooseberry. A citrusy Txomín Etxaníz 2014 Getariako Txakolina. angular finish turns pithy and bitter as it dissipates. 89 Papaya and stone-fruit aromas are fleshy La Caña 2014 Rías Baixas. Friendly familiar Drink now. Aviva Vino. —M.S. and a touch green and grassy, giving way to dusti- 89 aromas of lees, seashell, lemon, melon and abv: 13% Price: $18 ness upon airing. This feels spritzy and good, with apple set up a shearing pointed palate. Flavors of a full complement of golden apple, white grape and lemon-lime, green apple and gooseberry are pro- Lagar de Besada 2013 Baladiña (Rías Baix- green plum flavors. Solid, stony and minerally on pelled by minerally acidity, while the finish is fresh 86 as). Peachy aromas are less than perky, the finish, with a hint of tropical fruit flavor. Fine and well cut. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. while in the mouth this is lemony, narrow and cit- Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 ric. Flavors of lemon and tangerine finish with stony abv: 11% Price: $25 mineral notes but also a drawing citric acidity. Tur- Terras Gauda 2014 O Rosal (Rías Baixas). quoise Life. —M.S. Zudugarai 2014 Getariako Txakolina. Aro- 89 Apricot aromas are singular and firmly in abv: NA Price: $16 89 mas of children’s vitamins, corn stalk and control of the bouquet of this Galician blend of 70% white peach set up a lemony stony zesty palate with Albariño, 15% and 15% Caiño Blanco. This Nora 2014 Peitán (Rías Baixas). Aromas lemon and nectarine flavors. A stony crisp cleans- is juicy and fresh, but low on cushion and leesy 86 of ocean breeze and white clover are raw ing finish does the job while not faltering. Frontier framework. Apple and pineapple flavors run quick but good. This feels round, pulpy and citrusy, with Wine Imports. —M.S. and finish with minerality and zest. Aveniù Brands, green slightly bitter flavors of citrus, honey and abv: 10.5% Price: $25 Inc. —M.S. brine. Acidity plays a big role in keeping this afloat. abv: 12% Price: $26 Drink immediately. Aviva Vino. —M.S. K5 Argiñano 2014 Uhin Berdea (Getariako abv: 13% Price: $15 88 Txakolina). Apple and peach aromas are Gotas de Mar 2014 Rías Baixas. Aromas of clean and pure. This feels round yet compact, with 88 orange peel and orange essence are oily Valmiñor 2014 Rías Baixas. Match stick and orange, nectarine and pithy flavors. Green-apple and bring softer notes of melon, apple and tropical 86 sulfur notes fade into citrus and kiwi on an tartness and malic acidity push a pure finish that fruits. This is bright but basic on the tongue, with O.K. nose. Kind of late in its life already, this smells doesn’t balk. Classic Wines. —M.S. cutting acidity. Tropical flavors of green melon and big and pulpy. Apple and bitter-melon flavors fin- abv: 11% Price: $21 mango are ratcheted by citric acidity, while the fin- ish citrusy. Drink immediately. Kysela Père et Fils. ish is citrusy and pithy. Hammeken Cellars USA. —M.S. Gaintza 2014 Getariako Txakolina. Briny, —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $17 85 leesy aromas are funky and sweaty, not abv: 12.5% Price: $20 clean and lean like most Txakoli. Snappy, citric and Galizeus 2014 Rías Baixas. Yellow in color, decidedly not spritzy, this tastes of lemon, under- Valmiñor 2014 O Rosal Davila (Rías Baixas). 85 with heavy dusty flat aromas of apple and ripe nectarine and tart green apple. A cleansing 88 Leesy white fruit aromas open this blend of citrus, this feels low on acidity and thus flat. Cidery seltzer-like finish is the closing act. Spanish Vines, 80% Albariño with Loureiro and . In the apple and lime flavors finish chunky and leesy with Inc. —M.S. mouth, it’s all citric acidity and stoniness. The body an oily texture. Vicente Gandia USA. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $20 doesn’t register. Flavors of blood orange and lemon abv: 12% Price: $15 are also minerally, while the finish is persistently linear. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. Marqués de Vizhoja 2014 Señor da Folla RÍAS BAIXAS abv: 12% Price: $20 85 Verde Condado do Tea (Rías Baixas). This is smelling a bit oxidized and wayward. Spritzy in feel, Granbazán 2014 Etiqueta Ambar (Rías Baix- Bodegas Muriel 2014 Pazo Cilleiro (Rías Baix- this blend of 70% Albariño, 15% Loureira and 15% 91 as). Lightly leesy aromas of vanilla cookie 87 as). Don’t let the gold color fool you, this is Treixadura tastes pithy and like citrus skins. Pithy, are offset by crisp minerally apple and stone-fruit quite vital with floral, leesy, almost grassy aromas. borderline bitter flavors of white grapefruit drive scents. This is pure and lifted by fine acidity, while Bracing acidity is at the core with clover, grass, the finish. Torgar Group. —M.S. flavors of apple, pineapple and lemon-lime end quince and sour-apricot flavors. Blasting acidity is abv: 12.5% Price: $27 fresh, with a distant note of citrus pith. Drink im- a force on the finish. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. mediately. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Martín Códax 2014 Rías Baixas. Dusty apple abv: 12.5% Price: $22 85 aromas come with a vanilla-like note of ani- La Val 2014 Rías Baixas. Dusty, clammy, mal crackers. A plump but diluted palate shows me- Castro Brey 2014 Sin Palabras Castrovaldés 87 white fruit aromas are generic. This is pulpy diocre wan flavors of nectarine and apple in front of 90 (Rías Baixas). Classic Albariño aromas of in feel with a vague focus. Leesy, pithy citrus flavors a flat finish that’s losing steam. Drink immediately sea brine, tropical fruits, lees and dust precede a are standard and short on personality, while this or wait for a new vintage. E & J Gallo. —M.S. minerally lemony palate with tangy flavors of lem- finishes adequately with a mild citric lift. Polaner abv: 12% Price: $18 on, lime and gooseberry. This is a fresh clean ex- Selections. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $17

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Castro Martin 2013 Family Estate Selection Encanto 2014 Godello (Bierzo). Aromas of Paso a Paso 2014 White ( de 84 (Rías Baixas). Orange peel aromas are a bit 87 lemon, green apple and wet stone make up 84 Castilla). Stalky aromas of corn, apple and stony. In the mouth, this feels like it’s past its prime, the nose on this quaffable Godello that’s solid on white flowers lack focus. This feels blocky, while with little to no intensity or acidity. Mild apple fla- the palate, with some pithiness. Flavors of melon, salty flavors of cured ham blend with leesy flavors vors are sweet, mealy and honeyed, while the end- apple and green banana finish with notes of lees, of papaya and peach. A moderate basic finish is par ing is leesy and mushy. Frederick Wildman & Sons, citrus pith and bitterness. Vinamericas Selections. for the course. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. Ltd. —M.S. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 12.3% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Pablo Claro 2014 Special Selection Sauvi- Vieira de Plata 2014 Rías Baixas. An oily Luna Beberide 2014 Godello (Bierzo). Shy 83 gnon Blanc (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). 84 bouquet lacks freshness while smelling a 85 honeyed aromas of tropical fruits wind up at Melon and cidery aromas are distant. This feels low bit oxidized and like mushrooms. This has a chunky banana. This feels fleshy and not direct, while soft on acidity, while pear, papaya and briny flavors taste palate with oxidized, somewhat bitter flavors of pa- powdery flavors of leesy melon and papaya finish bitter on the back end of the palate. A briny, pickled paya and citrus fruits. A pithy mildly bitter finish with notes of oxidation, as if this is already starting note marks the finish. Terroir Wine Group. —M.S. struggles to show its virtues. Vinamericas Selec- to fade. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15 tions. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $21 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Peñascal 2014 Sauvignon Blanc (Vino de la 83 Tierra de Castilla y León). Aromas of canned Abadía de Tortoreos 2013 Rías Baixas. Noth- VINO DE LA TIERRA peas and beans indicate this was probably fresher 83 ing on the bottle says this is oaked, but this smelling nine months ago. Zesty and solid on the Albariño smells like burnt plywood and sawdust. Finca Constancia 2013 Parcela 52 Verdejo palate, this tastes oily, pyrazinic and briny, with It’s chunky and fat on the palate, with woody mel- 88 (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Despite open- stone fruit notes. Bronco Wine Company. —M.S. ony flavors that finish salty and dried out. Table 31 ing with a yellow color and waxy oily peach aromas, abv: 12.5% Price: $9 Imports. —M.S. this benefits from zesty lemon-like acidity. Flavors abv: 13% Price: $20 of quince and apple are oaky, while effusive acidity Trencalòs 2014 Sauvignon Blanc (Vino de la keeps this Verdejo fresh on the finish, which is oth- 82 Tierra de Castilla). Mild peach and quince Castro Martin 2013 A2O (Rías Baixas). Mel- erwise big and full. Drink now. Vin Divino. —M.S. aromas come with zero zest or edge. This lacks 83 on, apple and peach pit aromas are dusty abv: 13% Price: $20 shape on the palate and tastes jumbled, with bland but that’s about it. This feels flat, with little acidity peach and tropical fruit flavors. This finishes flat or kick. Flavors of peach and apple cider end simi- Montgó 2014 Flor del Montgó Verdejo (Vino as a board, with almost no lasting flavor. Grapes of larly, with no vitality to the finish. Frederick Wild- 86 de la Tierra de Castilla). Lightly oxidized Spain. —M.S. man & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. aromas of apple and peach are waxy and on the cusp abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 12% Price: $17 of being stale. In the mouth, however, this is stony and citric, with orange and lemon flavors. Finishing Vega de Tera 2014 Halcon Verdejo (Vino de la Fillaboa 2013 Rías Baixas. Mature mealy acidity and stoniness cut through this wine’s older, 80 Tierra de Castilla y León). This is a heartbeat 83 apricot aromas lead to a spent palate with heftier qualities. Drink now. Hammeken Cellars or two from being DOA. Tan in color with an oily unfocused cidery flavors that taste old and demand- USA. —M.S. heavy mouthfeel, this tastes oxidized and shows al- ing. This finishes heavy, pulpy and without much abv: 12.5% Price: $13 most no pulse. Cordero Foods . —M.S. point or pleasure. Albariño is meant to be fresh and abv: 13% Price: $13 friendly, but this is neither. Folio Fine Wine Part- Paso a Paso 2014 Verdejo (Vino de la Tierra ners. —M.S. 85 de Castilla). Stone-fruit and apple aromas abv: 12.5% Price: $20 grace a mild bouquet. This feels solid but generic, OTHER WHITE WINES with chunky peach, citrus and pithy flavors. On the Lagar de Cervera 2014 Rías Baixas. Murky finish, this Verdejo becomes more waxy and heavy Avancia 2014 Cuvee de O Godello (Valdeor- 82 mucky passion fruit and pineapple aromas in feel. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. 88 ras). Leesy white-fruit aromas come with are uncommon and uninviting. This feels watery abv: 13.5% Price: $9 hints of corn and slate. This feels plump but not too and a bit citrusy, while strained mango and pas- heavy to be cut by a beam of firm acidity. Chunky sion fruit flavors end bitter, pithy and lean. Skurnik Viña Galana 2014 Verdejo (Vino de la Tierra leesy flavors of apple and kiwi finish fleshy, pulpy Wines, Inc. —M.S. 85 de Castilla). Simple light aromas of vanilla and round. Drink immediately. Fine Estates From abv: 12.5% Price: $26 and lees set up a round palate with ample acidic Spain. —M.S. kick. For the most part, this is chunky and weighty, abv: 13.5% Price: $18 with apple and peach flavors, while mild bitterness BIERZO in the form of peach pit closes this out. SAWM Im- Zerran 2014 Garnacha Blanca (Montsant). ports, LLC. —M.S. 87 Green-apple and honeyed aromas are more Abad Dom Bueno 2014 Godello (Bierzo). abv: 12.5% Price: $13 simple and anonymous than special. This varietal 89 Snappy citric aromas of grapefruit and lime white Grenache has a shearing linear acidic pal- are pungent and not too different from Verdejo or Aljibes 2014 VA Viña Aljibes Sauvignon ate that fosters tart flavors of tangerine and lemon Sauvignon Blanc. Accordingly, the palate is fresh 84 Blanc-Chardonnay (Vino de la Tierra de Cas- peel. A stony drawn finish is crisp and zesty. Jorge and focused, with flavors of stone fruits that are lee- tilla). Fleshy aromas of melon and peach are leesy Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. sy and have a honeyed sweetness. A controlled, mild and soft. This is more angular and acidic on the pal- abv: 13% Price: $17 finish tastes mostly of orange. Drink now. Frontier ate, which fails to fan out. Nectarine and salty briny Wine Imports. —M.S. flavors finish with papaya and peach notes. Hidalgo Bodegas Campante 2014 Viña Reboreda abv: 13% Price: $24 Imports, LLC. —M.S. 86 Godello (Ribeiro). Straightforward peach, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 nectarine and apple aromas are fleshy, as is the pal- ate, which puts out leesy creamy flavors of apple

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and green banana. A leesy, low-acid finish is plump that end with loamy plum and prune notes. Overall, and lacks follow through. Drink immediately. Clas- SPARKLING WINES this is big and forceful. Drink through 2019. Think sical Wines. —M.S. Global. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14 Albet I Noya 2011 Brut Natural Reserva abv: 15% Price: $27 88 (Penedès). Leesy fleshy papaya aromas Chapter Capítulo 8 2014 White (Almansa). come with a touch of sulfur and harshness. This Los 800 2012 Priorat. Leathery stalky berry 86 Citrus and peach pit aromas are mild. This feels solid, albeit modest in bubbles. Flavors of 88 aromas come across as being baked and is clean but basic on the palate with citrus, nectar- apple and green melon are lasting and steady on the rough. This is full and grabby on the palate with ine and lime flavors. A clean refreshing finish is a finish. Opici Wines. —M.S. cooked blackberry and prune flavors that end dark, nice way to wrap things up. This is Sauvignon Blanc abv: 12% Price: $23 and spicy with notes of licorice and herbs. Grapes and Verdejo. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. of Spain. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Mont Marçal 2011 Brut Reserva (). Pop- abv: 15% Price: $23 87 corn and apple aromas ride highest on a Mas Igneus 2013 Barranc Dels Closos (Prio- lightly baked and toasty bouquet. This feels clean Mas Igneus 2012 Barranc Dels Closos (Prio- 86 rat). Nectarine and white peach aromas are and correct, but basic. Flavors of spiced apple and 88 rat). Raisin and prune aromas indicate full pithy, pointed and briny like sea water. This feels melon blend with fresh celery and lettuce notes in ripeness, while jammy fig notes come in later and citrusy and pulpy, while zesty citric flavors of grape- front of a minerally lime-tinged finish. Classical confirm this wine’s warm-vintage DNA. A clampy fruit, scallion and green herbs finish with residual Wines. —M.S. palate with big tannins offers inky flavors of plum pithy briny notes. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 2011% Price: $14 and prune, while an oaky concentrated finish feels abv: 14% Price: $26 jammy. Drink through 2018. Opici Wines. —M.S. Vicente Gandia NV Hoya De Cadenas Brut Na- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 2014 Chardonnay (Navarra). A simple 85 ture (Cava). Radiator dust, lees and vanilla 86 bouquet offers light apple and melon aro- cookie aromas precede a chunky flat palate. Flavors Tosalet 2013 Vinyes Velles (Priorat). Jammy mas, while the palate shows some malic acidity be- of lime, melon and apple are as basic as it gets, while 88 black plum aromas are savory, leathery and fore it softens. Melon, apple and a touch of butter the finish is bland except for a hint of pithy bitter- funky, with rusticity. This feels stout and chunky, work together to create a mild flavor profile, while ness. Vicente Gandia USA. —M.S. while condensed flavors of fig and prune are fully this is mellow and short on the finish. Monsieur abv: 11.5% Price: $11 ripe. A savory but mild finish is round but missing Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. some structural support. Drink now through 2018. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Segura Viudas NV Reserva Heredad (Cava). Hammeken Cellars USA. —M.S. 84 Leesy aromas of wheat and corn are low on abv: 15% Price: $25 Bodegas San Valero 2014 Particular Char- fruit and general appeal. This feels regular at best. 84 donnay (Cariñena). Fleshy, unfocused aro- Grassy gaseous flavors of bitter melon, lime and Vicente Gandia 2012 Xibrana Crianza (Prio- mas of apple and peach are a touch oxidized. This apple finish leesy and uncommitted, with flabby 87 rat). Raspy cheesy fiery aromas of plum Chardonnay feels bland. Flavors of melon and peach weight. For whatever reason, this is below prior and raspberry are a bit harsh. This feels tannic and lack tension and character, while there’s not much benchmarks. Freixenet USA. —M.S. grabby, while inky berry fruit and resiny oak flavors flavor to the finish other than mild apple and some abv: 12% Price: $25 finish hard and blocky with a mild note of schisty bitterness. Multiple U.S. importers. —M.S. minerality. Vicente Gandia USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14 Mont Paral NV Reserva Selection Brut (Cava). abv: 14% Price: $19 83 Leesy aromas of tropical fruits feed into a Jean León 2014 3055 Chardonnay flat palate. Leesy but bland peach and melon flavors 84 (Penedès). Apple and melon aromas are lack conviction and finish sketchy, with nothing in CARIÑENA mild, straightforward and devoid of oak. A chunky particular standing out. This is the definition of a melony palate doesn’t have much stuffing, while marginal Cava. Vinaio Imports. —M.S. Bodegas San Valero 2011 Particular Viñas this tastes of mild peach, papaya and other tropical abv: 11.5% Price: $15 89 Centenarias Garnacha (Cariñena). Layered fruits. Overall, this is inoffensive but hollow. Ste. aromas of blackberry, cassis, leather and dried Michelle Wine Estates. —M.S. cheese are inviting. In the mouth, this Garnacha abv: 13% Price: $15 SPAIN from vines more than 100-years-old is jammy and friendly. Candied almost syrupy flavors of black- Vega Sindoa 2014 Chardonnay (Navarra). RED WINES berry and black cherry finish dense and chocolaty, 82 Stalky and foul on the nose, this Chardon- with modest acidity. Drink through 2017. Multiple nay doesn’t smell inviting. Oily and heavy on the PRIORAT U.S. importers. —M.S. palate, this tastes of resiny oak, related cream and abv: 14.5% Price: $30 bland white fruits. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. Clos de Tafall 2013 Priorat. This is ripe and abv: 13.5% Price: $15 91 a bit raisiny with prune and fig notes to the Firestarter 2011 Garnacha (Cariñena). bold bouquet. This feels chunky on the palate, but 89 Loamy berry, cheesy oak, balsamic hints Hawthorne Ridge 2013 Chardonnay (Cari- not fat or out of shape. Baked black fruit and raisin and vanilla notes make for an interesting bouquet. 80 ñena). Strange yeasty unfocused aromas flavors finish solid and ready, with a note of licorice This feels a bit wiry and acidic at its core, while are unclean. This is flat and spineless, with yeasty and an overriding sense of richness. Drink through overall it’s chunky in stature. Deep warming flavors papaya flavors. A diluted, leesy finish confirms that 2020. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. of kirsch and blackberry finish with heat and jammy it’s not ready for prime time. Prestige Wine & Spir- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 weight. Drink through 2017. AWDirect (The Wine its Group. —M.S. Trees Portfolio). —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $8 Buil & Giné 2013 Giné Giné (Priorat). Rub- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 89 bery, earthy aromas of berry fruits, plum and mushroom are solid but nondescript. This feels Bodegas San Valero 2010 Particular Viñas grabby and pinchy, with herbal, leafy, salty flavors 88 Centenarias Garnacha (Cariñena). Ripe rus-

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 tic woody aromas of berry fruits and cedar intro- Agrícola Labastida 2012 El Primavera (Rio- duce a raw rugged drawing palate with oaky baked RIOJA 89 ja). Fairly deep berry aromas register as lightly medicinal flavors of candied berry fruits. dark and ripe. Following the nose, this feels chunky Grabby tannins, heat and spicy flavors push the Benjamin de Rothschild & SA and round, while toasty blackberry flavors remain finish on this firmly structured Garnacha. Drink 94 2010 Macán (Rioja). Right away, this comes heavy and dark on a full generous finish. Drink through 2018. Vintage Wines Inc. —M.S. across as a wine that’s on the money. Pure concen- through 2018. SAWM Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 trated aromas of blackberry, licorice and lemony abv: 13.5% Price: $16 oak introduce an intense palate with baked black- Montoya 2011 Cuvée E.M.H. Reserva Garna- berry and cassis flavors. A toasty dark spicy finish Aspaldi 2010 Crianza (Rioja). Earthy notes 86 cha (Cariñena). For full review see page 15. exhibits notes of coffee and bitter chocolate as it 89 of porcini mushroom and black olive blend Best Buy. slowly fades away. Drink through 2025. Europvin with balsamic plum and cherry aromas. This is a abv: 14% Price: $10 USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. touch heavy and syrupy in feel, and thus creamy abv: 14.5% Price: $85 flavors of chocolate, plum and berry are not sur- prising. On the finish, this remains creamy and ripe. CAMPO DE BORJA Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia SA Saranty Imports. —M.S. 93 2010 Macán Clásico (Rioja). Leather, dried abv: 14% Price: $15 Borsao 2014 Monte Oton Garnacha (Campo cheese, wood grain, blackberry and cassis aro- 87 de Borja). Cherry and raspberry aromas are mas make for a ripe attractive modern bouquet. Beronia 2012 Crianza (Rioja). Earthy herbal spunky and simple in front of a crisp edgy palate. This is mouthfilling, with full but controlled tan- 89 plum and currant aromas are light and Medicinal lightly rubbery flavors of cherry and nins. Baked blackberry, chocolate and mocha fla- a touch minty. This is easygoing and fresh with a plum finish with a raw rub, juicy acidity, a lean body vors come with bacon and hickory notes prior to a medium-size body. Flavors of cherry and raspberry and mild heat. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. smooth finish. Drink through 2022. Europvin USA. are lightly herbal, with light oak that adds a lactic —M.S. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. note to a berry driven finish. Drink through 2017. abv: 14.5% Price: $8 abv: 14.5% Price: $55 Vin Divino. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Borsao 2014 Viña Borgia Garnacha (Campo Telmo Rodríguez 2010 Altos Lanzaga Gran 87 de Borja). Gritty plum and currant aromas 92 Viñedo (Rioja). This is modern Rioja in all Viña Otano 2012 Crianza (Rioja). Fresh cher- are basic but fresh. Ditto the palate, which shows its glory. The nose is plump, a bit gaseous at first, 89 ry and plum aromas are a bit scratchy but acidic scratch but not too much. Prickly lightly and full of blackberry, raisin and prune aromas. alert. This feels firm, with bright acidity creating a oaked cherry and plum flavors end with scratchy This feels flush, choppy and oaky, with fine tannic raw sense on the palate. Plum, berry and a pinch of freshness, lean tannins and lasting berry notes. Fine structure. Flavors of blackberry, cassis, vanilla and saltiness make for an authentic flavor profile, while Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. cream finish subtly and woody, with a lactic after- this finishes long and steady. Drink through 2018. abv: 14% Price: $9 taste. Drink through 2025. Vintus LLC. Cellar Se- Grapes of Spain. —M.S. lection. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $17 Pagos del Moncayo 2014 PdM Moncayo abv: 14.5% Price: $127 87 Garnacha-Syrah (Campo de Borja). Scratchy Ysios 2008 Reserva (Rioja). Cherry and cherry and plum aromas are woody and minerally, Bodegas Berceo 2010 Viña Berceo Crianza 89 plum aromas are dry, earthy and direct. to an extent. This feels crimped and hard, while 91 (Rioja). Raw oak, herb and floral aromas are This is a straightforward aged Rioja with grabby heavy oak lends a hickory note to roasted medicinal complex and on the light side of the fence. This tannins but enough body and fruit to absorb them. red fruit flavors. A woody dry spicy finish is good feels tight, tannic and edgy, while resiny oak gives Baked cherry and plum flavors are a touch rustic despite rawness and heat. Axial Wines USA. Best off a lactic flavor to accompany core red plum and and stalky, while a roasted aftertaste sends this on Buy. —M.S. currant. This stays tight, punchy and drying on the its way. Drink through 2019. Pernod Ricard. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12 finish. Drink through 2021. 4Front Imports, LLC. abv: 14% Price: $33 —M.S. Borsao 2014 Garnacha (Campo de Borja). abv: 13% Price: $25 Burgo Viejo 2012 Crianza (Rioja). Oaky aro- 86 Untamed plum and cherry aromas are a bit 88 mas of raspberry and currant come with strained. This everyday Garnacha is fresh and fruity Rioja Vega 2010 Reserva (Rioja). Resiny notes of animal fur, lemon peel and shoe polish. in feel, with good but standard plum and cherry fla- 90 oak and mildly stalky berry aromas muscle This feels lively and not too heavy, with pointy, al- vors. An edgy grating finish with a spot of oak char- out cherry and raspberry scents. This feels grabby most lemony raspberry and plum flavors that finish acter wraps this up. Fine Estates From Spain. Best and clampy, while oaky flavors of mixed berries herbal, dry, medicinal and oaky. Drink this fresh, Buy. —M.S. and baked plum end with coconut-infused oak fla- wiry Rioja through 2018. Kysela Père et Fils. Best abv: 14.5% Price: $9 vors and notes of raisin and licorice. Drink through Buy. —M.S. 2020. Constellation Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Penelope Sanchez 2014 Campo de Borja. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 86 Heavy oak aromas rest forcefully on top Covila 2008 II Gran Reserva (Rioja). Ripe, of plum and black cherry scents. This is fresh and Viña Cumbrero 2010 Crianza (Rioja). Rasp- 88 loamy raisin and kirsch aromas set up a proper in feel, with dominant oaky graininess and 90 berry, plum and cherry aromas are light, pinched clampy tannic palate that grabs like Vel- medicinal berry flavors that finish woody like a pure and fully inviting, with nothing off-putting. cro. This tastes of vanilla and creamy oak along plank. Axial Wines USA. Best Buy. —M.S. This feels bright and balanced, with cherry and with herbal red berry fruits. Resiny, vanilla-driven abv: 13.5% Price: $10 berry flavors that are impossible not to like. A dash flavors crowd out residual berry fruit on the finish. of oaky cocoa blends with leftover red fruit flavors Drink now. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. on a nice finish. Marketing Global Brands Corp.Best abv: 14% Price: $31 Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Marqués de Vitoria 2007 Reserva (Rioja). 88 Rustic leathery aromas are capped and low

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on vibrant fruit scents. In the mouth, expect tannic palate shows earthy, buttery flavors of baked stalky Marqués de Vargas 2007 Reserva Privada scratchiness. Flavors of plum, cassis and toasty oak berry fruits and oak. A grabby chunky finish wraps 85 (Rioja). Aromas of raw oak, eucalyptus and come across as mildly baked, while a narrow finish this up. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. gritty berry fruits are hot and leafy. This Tempra- with notes of earth, loam and chocolate is solid. abv: 14% Price: $13 nillo-based blend feels choppy with aggressive grat- Drink now. Vinaio Imports. —M.S. ing tannins. Flavors of baked roasted berry fruits abv: 14% Price: $29 Pingao 2013 Rioja. Harmonious but mild are also herbal, green and leafy, while this finishes 87 cherry and raspberry aromas are light and crisp, raw and tomatoey in flavor. Dreyfus, Ashby Marqués del Puerto 2007 Reserva (Rioja). nice. This is substantive enough, with rubbery tan- & Co. —M.S. 88 Piercing choppy aromas of balsamic plum, nins and some chewiness to the palate. Generic fla- abv: 14% Price: $80 tobacco and cherry lead to a tannic, scratchy pal- vors of raspberry and red plum finish mellow and ate with saucy, oaky berry flavors that come with a easy. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. Bodegas Valdemar 2007 Conde Valdemar baked overtone. This Rioja from a poor vintage runs abv: 13.5% Price: $13 83 Gran Reserva (Rioja). Extreme raisiny aro- long on the finish, with an oak-based vanilla flavor mas are suggestive of P.X. Sherry. This is heavy and residual balsamic notes. W. Direct. —M.S. Raiza 2013 Crianza (Rioja). Aromas of Mid- and grabby on the palate while prune and raisin abv: 13.5% Price: $37 87 dle Eastern spices, pencil eraser, oak grain, flavors are dominant. On the finish, this is overripe red plum and cherry make for a complete nose. This and ponderous, with fig and prune flavors. Terlato Montecillo 2008 Gran Reserva (Rioja). Tempranillo offers good body and a fair amount of Wines International. —M.S. 88 Earthy rooty aromas of aged dry berry fruits oak on the palate along with spicy plum fruit that abv: 13.5% Price: $37 and tobacco are scratchy while hinting at complex- tastes more oaky and lactic on the finish. Vicente ity. In the mouth, this Gran Reserva is drawing and Gandia USA. Best Buy. —M.S. Bodegas Valdemar 2010 Conde de Valdemar tight. Herbal raspberry and dried cherry flavors fin- abv: 14% Price: $12 82 Crianza Tempranillo (Rioja). Reduced medic- ish with raw tannins and oaky vanilla flavors. Drink inal raspberry and cherry aromas are more like fruit now through 2020. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. Ramón Bilbao 2012 Crianza (Rioja). Earthy juice than wine. This is choppy and off the mark in abv: 13.5% Price: $35 87 plum and stalky berry aromas are bolstered mouthfeel, while unfamiliar jumbled flavors of jam- by bold oak aromas. This feels good and healthy, my red berry fruits finish tannic and green. Terlato Vallobera 2013 Pago Malarina (Rioja). Dark with spicy oaky flavors that are dry lactic and push Wines International. —M.S. 88 plum and berry aromas are fairly full and the wine’s fruit to the background. A woody spicy, abv: 13.5% Price: $17 concentrated, with a boost from spicy oak. A medi- minty finish ends this. Drink through 2017. Deutsch um-bodied palate offers up tannic rub, while cher- Family Wine and Spirits. —M.S. ry, black plum and oak-based spice flavors finish abv: 13.5% Price: $13 RIBERA DEL DUERO creamy, dry and spicy, with a hint of tobacco along with mild heat. Axial Wines USA. Best Buy. —M.S. Baron De Ley 2008 Gran Reserva (Rioja). García Figuero 2012 Viñas Viejas (Ribera del abv: 13.5% Price: $10 86 Gritty stalky aromas suggest that the origi- 93 Duero). For full review see page 5. Editors’ nal material for this Gran Reserva was not fully ripe. Choice. Vicente Gandia 2010 Raiza Reserva (Rioja). This feels wide chunky and grabby, with harsh tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $69 88 Earthy aromas of raspberry and plum are nins. Stalky flavors of herbal raspberry and plum familiar for Rioja. This feels fresh but also full and come with oaky vanilla accents and tomatoey spice 12 Linajes 2009 Reserva (Ribera del Duero). meaty. Balsamic raspberry and plum flavors finish on the finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. 92 Opening plum and raspberry aromas are warm, with chocolaty notes and a sense of compe- abv: NA Price: $30 complete and elegant, with dry earthy notes. This tence and quality. Vicente Gandia USA. Best Buy. feels lush and layered with deep plum, raspberry —M.S. Casado Morales 2007 Gran Reserva (Rioja). and creamy oak flavors. Through to the finish, this is abv: 14% Price: $13 86 Rubbery aromas of pencil eraser are also long, nicely oaked and complex in flavors and strong smoky and odd, with the suggestion of clove. In the in structure and balance. Drink through 2021. USA Bodegas Palacio 2007 Glorioso Gran Reserva mouth this is pinched at first, then more oaky and Wine West. —M.S. 87 (Rioja). Stalky, soupy berry aromas come up creamy, but also rubbery. Roasted plum and stewed abv: 14.5% Price: $35 shy on elegance. This feels clampy and hard with berry flavors finish tannic, with latent berry and rocky tannins. Standard berry fruit flavors are over- cherry notes. Votto Vines Importing. —M.S. Anier 2012 Vendimia Seleccionada (Ribera shadowed by gritty stalky blackened accents, while abv: 14% Price: $25 92 del Duero). Cedar and coconut aromas rest the finish is grating and uncushioned but long. comfortably atop ripe black fruit scents. In the Bronco Wine Company. —M.S. Ostatu 2008 Reserva (Rioja). This is so mouth this is juicy pure and well structured. Big abv: 14% Price: $36 86 toasty and heavily oaked that it smells chocolaty flavors of mixed black fruits show strong burnt and acrid. In the mouth this is pinched, tan- notes of charred wood and grilled meat on a toasty Larchago 2008 Pagos de Tahola Reserva nic and tough. Flavors of plum, raspberry and vanil- chocolaty finish. Drink through 2022. USA Wine 87 (Rioja). Flat stewy prune-like aromas are la finish scratchy and abrasive with drum-like tight- West. —M.S. low on life but not off-putting. This feels wide ness. Drink now. De Maison Selections, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $41 grabby and tannic, while jammy flavors of raspberry abv: 14% Price: $33 and plum finish chunky and expansive, but also tan- García Figuero 2012 12 Crianza Tempranillo nic and wan. Drink now. Lionstone International. Vaza 2013 Rioja. Despite some grit and tar 92 (Ribera del Duero). For full review see page 7. —M.S. 86 on the nose, this Rioja opens well with spicy abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 14% Price: $25 cherry and plum aromas. A standard, mild palate is satisfactory, while lightly roasted slightly briny Matarromera 2012 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Marqués de Riscal 2010 Arienzo Crianza plum and berry flavors end with a hint of saltiness. 91 Ripe berry aromas blend nicely with earthy 87 (Rioja). Leathery, baked aromas of cheesy Freixenet USA. —M.S. leathery scents. With a full and easy palate, this oak and red berry fruits are a bit lacking in pop but abv: 13.6% Price: $12 generous Crianza delivers blackberry and chocolate are reflective of typical Rioja Crianza. A full grabby flavors that veer toward raisin and prune, especially

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 on the finish, which is lightly toasted and dense in blackberry and raspberry flavors come with vanilla wine is showing structure and a dense texture as feel. Drink through 2019. Matarromera USA, Inc. and creamy notes in front of an ephemeral finish. well as tight fruitiness. It’s a blend of one-third of —M.S. Drink through 2017. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. each of Champagne’s principal grapes, giving good abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 14.5% Price: $22 balance and intense acidity. The low dosage has made the wine dry without losing a ripe, full char- Lecco 2009 Reserva (Ribera del Duero). Red Cuatro Pasos 2012 Mencía (Bierzo). It has acter. Drink from 2017. Terrell Wines. —R.V. 90 fruit aromas are a bit rough and scalped 88 been a while since we’ve reviewed Cuatro abv: 12% Price: $64 in front of a chunky palate. Charred, burnt, oaky Pasos, but eight vintages later it’s basically the flavors of raspberry and cassis stress ripeness and same wine, which, for the price, means good value. Pehu-Simonet 2010 Fins Lieux No 1 Millésimé weight before finishing with buttery oak, a slightly This opens with earthy warm muddled berry aro- 93 Grand Cru Brut (Champagne). This single- greasy feel and roasted berry flavors. Drink through mas. The palate is flush and plump, reflective of a parcel, partially barrel-fermented Champagne is in 2020. D M Vineyards. —M.S. hot vintage, while blackberry and cassis flavors fin- effect a Blanc de Noirs. If all that sounds complicat- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 ish hefty. Drink now. European Cellars.Best Buy. ed (and so does the name of the wine), the wine it- —M.S. self is much easier to appreciate. It is certainly rich, Valdubón 2009 Reserva (Ribera del Duero). abv: 13.5% Price: $13 with a touch of tannin and mineral texture. Full of 90 For full review see page 13. ripe white fruits, it offers good acidity at the end. It abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Dominio de Tares 2012 Baltos Mencía (Bier- could age longer; drink from 2017. Skurnik Wines, 88 zo). Jammy aromas of blackberry and cassis Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Emina 2012 Prestigio Crianza (Ribera del Du- start out gaseous and muddled but find their way abv: 12.5% Price: $70 89 ero). This smells a touch stalky and leath- with airing. This feels wide and low on zest. Flavors ery, although there’s ample black fruit character to of prune and stewed berry end with toasty oak but Pehu-Simonet 2010 Fins Lieux No 5 Grand the bouquet. A tannic somewhat rough palate holds also heavy ripe prune and berry flavors. Drink now. 93 Cru Brut (Champagne). Made from Grand stalky flavors of roasted black fruits, charred wood Opici Wines. —M.S. Cru vineyards in Mesnil-sur-Oger on the Côte and creosote. A jagged finish with peppery spice and abv: 14% Price: $17 des Blancs, this beautiful wine is maturing well. heat closes this out. Drink through 2020. Matar- The ripe, creamy pineapple and spice character romera USA, Inc. —M.S. has softened the natural minerality of the texture. abv: 14% Price: $30 CHAMPAGNE Full in the mouth, ripe and rounded, the wine will age more, so drink now, or better, keep until 2017. Oráculo 2009 Ribera del Duero. Charcoal VINTAGE Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. 89 aromas shadow standard black fruit scents. abv: 12.5% Price: $70 This is forward in its approach, with a sturdy Pehu-Simonet 2006 Face Nord Millésime mouthfeel. Black plum and blackberry flavors fea- 95 Grand Cru Brut (Champagne). Produced Pierre Gimonnet et Fils 2009 Cuvée Fleuron ture a lot of vanilla and cream, while the finish is only from Grand Cru vineyards on the north side 93 Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut (Cham- mild, straightforward and tastes mostly like oak and of the (with some Chardonnay pagne). This is a serious wine, with its mineral associated vanilla. Drink now through 2020. Ham- from the Côte des Blancs), this wine is beautifully texture and tangy structure. It has plenty of apple meken Cellars USA. —M.S. balanced. It is rich and creamy, with just a zing of and zingy orange flavors. But the main thrust at abv: 14.5% Price: $73 mineral acidity to give extra freshness. It is just now this stage is of a wine poised for considerable aging. ready to drink, still fresh although with touches of Fresh and still tight, it needs several years. Drink toast at the end. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. from 2018. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. BIERZO abv: 12% Price: $110 abv: 12.5% Price: $70

Luna Beberide 2012 Art Mencía (Bierzo). Aubry 2007 Aubry de Humbert Brut (Cham- Aubry 2011 Ivoire et Ebène Premier Cru Brut 90 Smooth, deep aromas of licorice and black- 94 pagne). Named after the 13th-century cru- 92 (Champagne). Beautifully balanced, this berry are composed. This Mencía feels full and sading Archbishop of Reims, this is Aubry’s top cu- wine is both fresh and creamy. It is still young and lusty, with grip but nothing too hard or edgy. Earthy vée. It is just coming into its own, filling out with at its crispest, needing some time. Acidity, citrus black fruit flavors are savory, toasty and meaty, ripe white and yellow fruits while keeping a tight, and green plum fruits are there along with a tight, while the finish is woody and plump. Drink through fresh edge. It is full in the mouth, creamy in tex- mineral texture. The future will bring out more of 2020. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. ture and still able to age. Drink now and until 2022. the wine’s creamy character and soften it. Drink abv: 14% Price: $55 Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. from 2017. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $80 abv: 12.5% Price: $70 Abad Dom Bueno 2012 Mencía (Bierzo). At 89 first, this smells gaseous and rubbery, but Pierre Gimonnet et Fils 2008 Special Club de Pierre Gimonnet et Fils 2008 Extra Brut airing reveals ripe blackberry aromas, graphite 94 Collection Brut (Champagne). A beautiful 92 Oenophile Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru and warmth. In the mouth, this Mencía is jammy wine, this has fresh acidity, crisp fruits and zesty (Champagne). The heart of the Gimonnet vineyards and woody; flavors of resiny, salty black fruits are mineral texture. Apples, citrus and hints of apricots is in the Côte des Blancs. This bone-dry, very crisp chunky, while barrel influences carry onto the fin- are all there along with an intense tangy character Chardonnay is intense in its acidity and tight tex- ish, which tastes of hickory, mixed spices and cassis. that bursts in the mouth. It’s still so young and ture. Like many wines that are so dry, it needs to Drink through 2017. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. needs to age; drink from 2018 at the earliest. The age to allow its almost shocking freshness to soften. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Special Club is a group of growers who rate and It will always be a wine for food. Drink from 2018. taste each other’s wines before release. Skurnik Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. Luna Beberide 2012 Finca la Cuesta Mencía Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $75 89 (Bierzo). Dark in color, this Mencía smells abv: 12.5% Price: $110 of turned earth, roots, herbs, dried cheese, tobacco Aubry 2009 Le Nombre d’Or Brut Nature and baked black fruits. It’s round and chunky on the Lelarge-Pugeot 2005 Millésime Premier Cru 91 (Champagne). This wine is bone-dry, al- palate, but cobbled together at its foundation. Ripe 93 Extra Brut (Champagne). Still young, this though with some age the shock of the acidity has

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been rounded out by a hint of toast. It’s linear, fresh ready to drink. It has rich flavors of white fruits Pierre Gimonnet et Fils NV Cuis Premier Cru and intensely crisp, with citrus and almond tones. as well as more tropical hints. A pure line of acid- 89 Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). Based Drink this wine from a good vintage now. Skurnik ity cuts through the riper fruit flavors and leaves on the premier cru Chardonnay vineyards of Cuis, Wines, Inc. —R.V. a crisp texture with orange-zest flavor at the end. this soft and fresh wine is beautifully balanced. It abv: 12.5% Price: $85 Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. has apple freshness, a tangy texture from miner- abv: 12.5% Price: $60 ality, and a bright and fruity aftertaste. Skurnik Pierre Gimonnet et Fils 2008 Cuvée Para- Wines, Inc. —R.V. 88 doxe Premier Cru (Champagne). This is a Baron-Fuenté NV Esprit Grand Cru Brut abv: 12.5% Price: $50 blend from Aÿ on the Montagne de Reims and from 92 (Champagne). Grapes from Grand Cru the Côte des Blancs. It is intensely perfumed, with vineyards on the Montagne de Reims and Côte des Aubry NV Brut Rosé Premier Cru (Cham- weight from Pinot Noir and crispness from Char- Blancs go into this elegant wine. A crisp, tight, min- 88 pagne). Rich, fruity and textured, this ex- donnay. If it seems not quite integrated at this eral character is balanced by the crisp apple flavor presses freshness with its acidity and red-currant stage, it will hopefully come together over the next and fresh acidity. This bottling has some age so is flavors. These cut through the tangy texture, giving few years to reveal a ripe and rich wine. Drink from quite ready to drink. Premier Wine Co. Editors’ a tight aftertaste. The wine can be drunk immedi- 2017. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. Choice. —R.V. ately for its crispness or held until late 2016 to let it abv: 12.5% Price: $55 abv: 12.5% Price: $38 soften. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $60 Lelarge-Pugeot NV Premier Cru Brut Tradi- NONVINTAGE 92 tion (Champagne). This ripe and creamy Baron-Fuenté NV Esprit Blanc de Blancs Brut wine offers a good depth of flavor. It has plenty of 88 (Champagne). This ripe Chardonnay has a Michel Reybier NV Brut Premier Cru (Cham- fresh apple flavors, although the dominant fruits are soft texture and only the lightest minerality. It is 94 pagne). Produced for the owner of Château riper, richer and tangy with orange zest and apri- fresh, tangy with lemon-zest flavors and refreshing Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux, this wine was wood- cots. To balance all this fruit, the texture is tight acidity. The aftertaste with a burst of crispness is aged before undergoing its second fermentation. with a good streak of minerality to give a crisp af- particularly attractive. Premier Wine Co. —R.V. That gives it a rich, creamy character, attractively tertaste. Terrell Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $38 oxidative while also having fresh apple and citrus abv: 12% Price: $42 flavors. It’s an intense, complex wine that has been Baron-Fuenté NV Esprit Brut (Champagne). bottled ready to drink, marking a very fine launch. A.R. Lenoble NV Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 88 This ripe, rounded and fruity wine hails MHW, Ltd. —R.V. 91 Chouilly Brut (Champagne). This is a very from vineyards at the western end of the Marne Val- abv: 12% Price: $120 lively wine with a creamy mousse. The wine is to- ley. Its yellow fruit and soft apple flavors are only wards dry, bringing out great white and citrus fruit lightly marked by minerality. The acidity is fragrant, Baron-Fuenté NV Grands Cépages (Cham- flavors with a burst of tangy acidity. It comes from refreshing and with just the right crispness to bal- 93 pagne). This is Baron-Fuenté’s top wine, the village of Chouilly in the Côte des Blancs, which ance all this soft fruit. Premier Wine Co. —R.V. made as an expression of pure Chardonnay. It is gives the wine a tight mineral texture at the end. abv: 12.5% Price: $36 tight, textured and ready for some bottle aging. The Cognac One, LLC. —R.V. minerality is palpable with its zingy edge and lem- abv: 12% Price: $54 Forget-Brimont NV Blanc de Blancs Premier on-zest flavors. While the wine can be drunk now, it 88 Cru Brut (Champagne). Ripe and full, this will be much more complex in a few months. Drink Pehu-Simonet NV Face Nord Brut Grand Cru comes from a producer based just south of the from 2017. Premier Wine Co. —R.V. 91 (Champagne). Only produced from Grand Côtes de Blancs. Yellow fruits are cut with citrus to abv: 12.5% Price: $60 Cru vineyards, this ripe wine offers yellow fruit fla- give a rich, while refreshing wine. Smooth with an vors cut by dry tangy citrus acidity. It’s full in the orange-zest texture, it is ready to drink. HB Wine Pehu-Simonet NV Face Nord Extra Brut Grand mouth, with a creamy mousse and attractive fresh- Merchants. —R.V. 93 Cru (Champagne). From vineyards on the ness. The wine, with its hints of toast as well as abv: 12% Price: $55 north-facing slope of the Montagne de Reims, this fruit, is ready to drink. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. Champagne is a blend of different Grand Cru vines. abv: 12.5% Price: $50 Forget-Brimont NV Premier Cru Brut (Cham- It is dry, although an underlying richness gives the 88 pagne). This ripe, stylish and attractively wine generosity and crisp apple and pear fruitiness. Pierre Gimonnet et Fils NV Rosé des Blancs textured nonvintage has plenty of fruit, apples and An elegant texture at the end is a good indication 90 Brut Premier Cru (Champagne). This pale- citrus dominating. A mineral, tight acidity gives that the wine could age. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. colored rosé is made from Chardonnay with the ad- the wine a crisp, crunchy character. HB Wine Mer- abv: 12.5% Price: $55 dition of Pinot Noir still wine to give the color. It chants. —R.V. is fresh and crisp, offering a lively mousse with at- abv: 12% Price: $45 Pierre Gimonnet et Fils NV Sélection Belles tractive flavors of raspberry and fresh red currants. 93 Années Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). With its refreshing acidity, it is ready to drink. H. Blin NV Brut Tradition (Champagne). A A blending of recent good vintages, this young- Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. 88 blend of Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, tasting Champagne is at the delicious fruit stage. It abv: 12.5% Price: $65 this is crisp while also rounded. Fresh, tight acidity is crisp, citrus-flavored and bright with fruitiness. under a creamy texture brings out the sliced apple As it develops, the more mineral texture will come Lété-Vautrain NV Brut 204 (Champagne). and Rocha pear flavors. There’s no need to age this through, giving a richer, impressive wine that re- 89 With a dominance of Pinot Meunier in the bottling; it’s ready to drink. Soilair Selection. —R.V. tains a zesty character. Ideally wait a few months blend, this soft, attractive wine offers apples and abv: 12.5% Price: $50 after purchase before drinking. Skurnik Wines, Inc. crisp citrus, with a light, lively texture. The wine, —R.V. with its fresh aftertaste, is refreshing and bright. Jean Milan NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Ex- abv: 12.5% Price: $45 Atlanta Improvement Co. —R.V. 88 tra Brut (Champagne). Fresh and fruity, this abv: 12.5% Price: $32 wine comes from Grand Cru vineyards in Oger in the Aubry NV Le Nombre d’Or Brut (Champagne). Côte des Blancs. With its soft texture and ripe char- 92 This ripe, balanced and mature wine is acter, it’s an attractive wine with bright citrus and

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 pear flavors. The mineral streak, though, seems to vors. A slight bitterness detracts from what is oth- Domaine Gérard Duplessis 2013 Fourchaume be missing. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. erwise a fresh wine. HB Wine Merchants. —R.V. 92 Premier Cru (Chablis). Close to the slope of abv: 12% Price: $55 abv: 12% Price: $55 Grand Crus, Fourchaume is one of the best known of the premiers in Chablis. This ripe wine with its Jean Milan NV Brut Rosé (Champagne). touches of vanilla as well as yellow fruits and acid- 88 Crisp and fresh, this has an attractive tight BURGUNDY ity has a lightly honeyed character typical of the texture that contrasts with the red berry fruits and vintage. It is ready to drink, although it will be bet- lively acidity. It’s a real apéritif style of wine, light WHITE WINES ter from 2017. Hand Picked Selections. Cellar Se- and fruity. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. lection. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $65 GRAND CRU CHABLIS abv: 12.5% Price: $46

Jean Milan NV Tendresse Grand Cru Sec Domaine Laroche 2013 La Réserve de Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen 2013 Vau- 88 (Champagne). Not many Grand Cru wines 95 l’Obédience Les Blanchots Grand Cru (Cha- 91 coupin Premier Cru (Chablis). On the right are made into a Sec style of Champagne. This wine blis). For full review see page 3. bank of the Serein river, Vaucoupin gives rich wines, is more soft than sweet, with plenty of acidity as abv: 13% Price: $170 showing its sunny exposition. This bottling is ripe, well as a touch of honey. Soft and round at the end, full in the mouth and intense with fragrant white the wine is balanced and ready to drink. Skurnik Domaine Laroche 2013 Les Clos Grand Cru fruits, vanilla and youthful acidity. With freshness Wines, Inc. —R.V. 94 (Chablis). Tight and still very young, this still to the fore, it will age and will be better from abv: 12% Price: $55 wine has great aging potential. The fruits show apri- 2017. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. cot and green plum balanced by a tense, steely min- abv: 13% Price: $30 Lelarge-Pugeot NV Premier Cru Brut Rosé erality that cuts through like a razor. Ready to age 88 (Champagne). Fresh, ripe and fruity, this for several years, this wine will be best from 2020. Domaine Chenevières 2014 L’Homme Mort is a rich wine, produced from vines to the west of Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. 91 Premier Cru (Chablis). L’Homme Mort is a Reims. It has perfumed wild strawberry flavors and abv: 13% Price: $146 northern extension of the Fourchaume Premier Cru acidity. Attractively crisp at the end, it’s a ready- vineyard, so called because this was where a local to-drink wine that will be just right as an apéritif. Domaine Chenevières 2014 Bougros Grand lord dispensed justice by death. It often produces Terrell Wines. —R.V. 93 Cru (Chablis). Dense and concentrated, this cooler wines such as this. It is tight, with toasted abv: 12% Price: $49 is a wine with a long-term future. Ripe apricot and bread hints and with a strongly tangy character. It apple flavors are cut with acidity. Equally, the tight, does need to develop and shouldn’t be drunk before Lété-Vautrain NV Rosé Royal Brut (Cham- tense structure shapes a rich wine, taut and with 2018. Saranty Imports. —R.V. 88 pagne). Pale orange-pink in color, this is a a steely texture. It is serious while also likely to be abv: 13% Price: $45 crisp, tight and mineral-textured wine. It is fresh in delicious. Drink from 2019. Saranty Imports. Cellar the bottle, with red currant and grapefruit flavors. Selection. —R.V. Domaine Gérard Duplessis 2013 Montmains This fruity bottling could be held until mid-2016 to abv: 13% Price: $65 91 Premier Cru (Chablis). This delicious, refresh- fill out the texture. Atlanta Improvement Co. —R.V. ing wine is textured, tight and mineral, with fruity abv: 12.5% Price: $38 Domaine Laroche 2013 Les Blanchots Grand acidity. Tangy and crisp, it has a tight structure, 93 Cru (Chablis). Ripe and toasty, this rich wine touches of toast along with apple and citrus flavors. Aubry NV Premier Cru Brut (Champagne). is full of generous fruits as well a wood flavors. It The wine is still young and very tight, so should 87 This is a full, ripe Champagne with a lightly shows the honeyed character that appears in this not be drunk before 2017. Hand Picked Selections. mineral texture. It comes from the northern end of vintage while still keeping tight minerality. It cer- —R.V. the Montagne de Reims, giving dominance to Pi- tainly needs to age, so drink from 2018. Wilson abv: 12.5% Price: $45 not Noir. It is a food-style of Champagne, with its Daniels Ltd. —R.V. dry texture and almond and citric flavors. Skurnik abv: 13% Price: $104 Domaine Laroche 2013 Les Vaillons Vieilles Wines, Inc. —R.V. 91 Vignes Premier Cru (Chablis). From old vines, abv: 12.5% Price: $40 this rich and concentrated wine is dominated by PREMIER CRU CHABLIS ripe apple and pear flavors. They combine with the Baron-Fuenté NV Grande Réserve Brut well-judged toastiness from wood aging to give a 87 (Champagne). With a high proportion of Pi- Domaine Chenevières 2014 Côte de Lechet full, dense wine will age well. Drink from 2018. Wil- not Meunier in the blend, this is ripe, warm and ac- 92 Premier Cru (Chablis). This is a very pure son Daniels Ltd. —R.V. cessible. Fresh apple and ripe pear flavors are cut by wine, all fruit and tight acidity. It is classic Chablis abv: 13% Price: $53 grapefruit acidity. The texture is soft, ripe and very with its tangy, steely edge that gives a lift and struc- ready to drink. Premier Wine Co. —R.V. ture to the crisp apple fruit flavors. The acidity cuts Louis Max 2014 Fourchaume Premier Cru (Cha- abv: 12.5% Price: $30 right through the wine, leaving a refreshing, lively 91 blis). The steely character of a young Chablis aftertaste. Saranty Imports.Editors’ Choice. —R.V. is very apparent in this wine. It is crisp, lemon fla- Baron-Fuenté NV Rosé Dolores Brut (Cham- abv: 13% Price: $35 vored and with a mineral edge. The wine has a juicy 87 pagne). This is a soft, open wine, lightly freshness, still young at heart and needing to age. flavored with red fruits and with attractive acidity. Domaine Chenevières 2014 Fourchaume Pre- Drink from 2018. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. A bright, lively mousse gives a lift to the palate, fin- 92 mier Cru (Chablis). Full of fruit, this also ex- abv: 13% Price: $38 ishing with an orange-zest tang. Premier Wine Co. presses a tight and mineral sense of terroir. Tangy, —R.V. packed with white fruit and green plums cut with Domaine Gérard Duplessis 2013 Vaillons Pre- abv: 12.5% Price: $35 lime juice, this ripe, full-bodied wine is going to be 90 mier Cru (Chablis). From vines on the cooler delicious. Drink from 2018. Saranty Imports. —R.V. left bank of the Serein river, this wine offers notes of Forget-Brimont NV Brut Rosé Premier Cru abv: 13% Price: $40 toast, spice and ripe yellow fruits cut by tense, zingy 86 (Champagne). Light and fruity, this offers a lively mousse and crisp red currant and berry fla-

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lemon zest. It is textured, tense and full of mineral- of orange zest. It is full, fruity and ready to drink. Situated in the center of the premier crus of Pulig- ity. Drink from 2017. Hand Picked Selections. —R.V. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. ny, Champgains produces an elegant, textured wine. abv: 12.5% Price: $45 abv: 12% Price: $32 This bottling, with the warmth of 2013 behind it, is fragrant with white fruits and has a soft aftertaste. Domaine Laroche 2013 Les Vaudevey Pre- Domaine Vrignaud 2014 Chablis. This is a It needs to age to bring it out its more complex char- 89 mier Cru (Chablis). While the texture is 87 soft, rounded wine full of yellow fruits, pears acter, so wait until 2018. Misa Imports. —R.V. light, the fruit and the wood flavors give this wine and red apples. It is textured with minerality and abv: 13% Price: $141 richness and a ripe, toast and apricot character. It tangy lemon zest. The acidity at the end is still fresh has balanced acidity that allows a fresher edge to and the wine could do with some more time before Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2013 Pernand- develop. The aftertaste, hinting at a steely edge, drinking. Wait until late 2016. Cape Classics. —R.V. 89 Vergelesses. Soft and round, this ripe wine suggests the wine will age. Drink from 2017. Wilson abv: 12.5% Price: $25 offers both fruit and acidity. It is young and full of Daniels Ltd. —R.V. green plum and pear flavors, still textured with a abv: 13% Price: $46 Louis Max 2014 Chablis. Fresh, light and young, crisp character. It needs to fill out for a few 86 fruity this is attractive young Chablis. It is years, and will be best from 2017. Misa Imports. Domaine Gérard Duplessis 2013 Montée de soft, dwelling on the fruit rather than any texture. —R.V. 88 Tonnerre Premier Cru (Chablis). Montée de Crisp and with citrus and green apple flavors, it abv: 13% Price: $43 Tonnerre, just to the south of the Grand Cru slope, will be ready to drink easily by mid-2016. Slocum gives rich wines like this with density and ripeness. & Sons, Inc. —R.V. Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2013 Sous le From the warm vintage of 2013, this is a ripe, apple- abv: 12.5% Price: $29 88 Château (Saint-Romain). From one of the and pear-flavored wine that has just the hint of a villages that lies behind the primary Chardonnay tighter, mineral texture. It can be drunk now. Hand vineyards of the Côte de Beaune, this is already Picked Selections. —R.V. CÔTE DE BEAUNE smooth, fruity and perfumed. It has attractive acid- abv: 12.5% Price: $46 ity and a rich, baked apple character that is pointed Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2013 Creux de la up by the layer of toastiness. Drink now, although 92 Net Premier Cru (Pernand-Vergelesses). The the wine will be better from 2017. Misa Imports. CHABLIS cool, crisp nature of Pernand is well expressed in —R.V. this tight, mineral and tangy wine. It has fine acidity abv: 13% Price: $46 Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen 2014 along with fresh apple and citrus fruits. The good 89 Chablis. This ripe, rounded wine has an at- texture will allow the wine to age. Drink from 2018. tractive apple and ripe pear fruit character. Hints Misa Imports. —R.V. CÔTE CHALONNAISE of vanilla give extra richness to the wine with its abv: 13% Price: $52 approachable fruitiness. It can be drunk now, al- Louis Max 2014 Les Rochelles (Mercurey). though it will be better from late 2016. T. Elenteny Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2013 Les Morgeots 90 This wine is dense, ripe and full of rich Imports. —R.V. 91 Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). At the apricot and peach flavors, with a line of crisp lemon abv: 13% Price: $24 south end of Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeots and a background of toast. Full in the mouth, this Premier Cru is close to abbey ruins. This young, generous wine will be ready to drink from 2017. It Domaine Chenevières 2014 Les Grands Vi- toasty wine is ripe, smooth and creamy. Rich apple comes Louis Max domaine vineyards in and around 88 gnes (Chablis). Made from old vines, this and green plum flavors are balanced by acidity and Mercurey. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. ripe and concentrated wine is smooth and creamy. touched by honey. The wood aging is still prominent abv: 13% Price: $35 Good acidity balances the rich fruits, giving flavors and needs to tone down, so drink from 2018. Misa of apples, pears and apricots cut by a line of citrus. Imports. —R.V. Louis Max 2013 Les Plantenays Rully. This is The wine is ready to drink, although it will be better abv: 13% Price: $112 88 a steely wine, tight with acidity and lemon from 2017. Saranty Imports. —R.V. fruits. It has a mineral, tangy texture that is still abv: 13% Price: $30 Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2013 Corton- calming down, which suggests a young wine that 90 Charlemagne. As with Clos de Vougeot in needs time. Certainly the fruit is all there, if with a Domaine Chenevières 2014 Chablis. This red, every producer needs a Corton-Charlemagne nervy character. Drink the wine from 2018. Slocum 87 is a soft and creamy wine, ripe with baked white. Aegerter’s contribution is soft, honeyed and & Sons, Inc. —R.V. apple and crisp pear flavors. Balanced and full in warm. It has hints of the concentration proper to abv: 13% Price: $30 the mouth, it attractive and ready to drink. Saranty this Grand Cru vineyard, allowing for a perfumed, Imports. —R.V. ripe fruit character. It will develop quickly and will Louis Max 2013 Vignes du Domaine (Mercu- abv: 13% Price: $25 be ready to drink from 2017. Misa Imports. —R.V. 88 rey). With a touch of wood aging, this ripe abv: 13% Price: $238 and creamy wine has a light edge of toast. Crisp with Domaine Gérard Duplessis 2014 Chablis. This lemon and ripe with apricots, it has a fresh charac- 87 is a fresh, open and very accessible wine. Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2013 Meursault. ter that is filled out and given richness with a touch Crisp acidity cuts through the green apple flavors 90 With its appealing toast and fruit aromas, of honey at the end. Drink from 2016. Slocum & and tangy, mineral texture. With juicy fruitiness, it this is a rich wine. It does keep plenty of steely tex- Sons, Inc. —R.V. is a light wine that is ready to drink. Hand Picked ture while allowing the yellow fruits, ripe pear and abv: 13% Price: $35 Selections. —R.V. toast to shine. In style it hovers halfway between abv: 12% Price: $32 the ripe, buttery Meursault of the past and the Vignerons de Buxy 2013 Buissonnier (Côte crisper style of today, a fine compromise and ready 86 Chalonnaise). This attractive, lightly hon- Domaine Laroche 2014 Saint-Martin (Cha- to drink now. Misa Imports. —R.V. eyed wine has apple and fresh pear flavors. Fresh, 87 blis). This simple, fruity and rounded wine abv: 13% Price: $74 fruity and crisp, it finishes with a youthful lift that has light acidity, apricot and pear flavors and a tang suggests it will be better from mid-2016. Ruby Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2013 Les Champ- Wines Inc. —R.V. 90 gains Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). abv: 13% Price: $18

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 structure. Fruity with its lemon and apple flavors, wine has a ripe character and full-bodied yellow MÂCON it has a lightly herbal edge that adds a green, fresh and crisp pear fruit flavors. It’s a cut above a basic aftertaste. Drink now. Scott Levy Selection. —R.V. white Burgundy with its generous texture and the Domaine Pascal et Mireille Renaud 2014 Mâ- abv: 13% Price: $16 acidity at the end. Drink now. Slocum & Sons, Inc. 88 con-Villages. This ripe, still very young wine —R.V. has a tangy, mineral texture that cuts into the white abv: 12.5% Price: $23 fruit flavors. Acidity, creamy texture and flavors of POUILLY-FUISSÉ melon and apricots all give this wine the potential Bailly-Lapierre 2014 Côtes d’ (Bour- to be deliciously fruity. Drink from 2017. K&L Wine Louis Max 2014 Vieilles Vignes (Pouilly- 86 gogne). Produced just outside the Chablis Merchants. —R.V. 90 Fuissé). Full in the mouth, this rich wine is region, the wine has the same minerality and steely abv: 13% Price: $16 dominated by yellow fruits and ripe apricots lifted character. It also offers ripe yellow fruits and in- by a touch of toast. Great acidity conveys a fresh and tense acidity. The combination of these elements Louis Max 2014 Mâcon-Villages. Ripe yellow tangy character. The wine is still developing as the suggests the wine needs to age another year, so wait 86 fruits dominate this full wine. Balanced by full fruitiness comes forward. Drink from 2017. Slo- until 2017. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. apple freshness, it offers rich apricots and creamed cum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 pear, backed by acidity. It’s simple, fruity and deli- abv: 13% Price: $32 cious now. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. Louis Max 2014 Beaucharme (Bourgogne). abv: 13% Price: $18 Trenel Fils 2013 Pouilly-Fuissé. Soft and 86 This is a refreshing, lemon-flavored wine. 88 creamy, this full, rich wine brings together Attractive crispness comes out of the mineral tex- Vignerons de Mancey 2014 Mâcon-Villages. delicious yellow and white fruits with citrus acidity ture and perfumed acidity. Light and still young, 86 This ripe, creamy wine has apricot flavors and a tight, nervy texture. It has an attractive per- this will age to be ready to drink from late 2016. laced with citrus acidity. Lightly textured, it is fumed character balanced with a crisp, tight after- Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. still developing and needs to age for the next few taste. Drink from 2016. Scott Levy Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 months. Drink from the end of 2016. Apollo Fine abv: 13% Price: $NA Spirits. —R.V. Vignerons de Mancey 2014 Bourgogne. From abv: 13% Price: $15 Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2013 Réserve Per- 85 the Mâcon region, this light and fruity wine 87 sonnelle (Pouilly-Fuissé). Tangy and min- is crisp with acidity, lemon and apple flavors. It has Labouré-Roi 2014 Mâcon-Villages. This wine eral, this is a crisp apple- and citrus-driven wine, a soft, gently mineral texture that is fresh while also 85 is soft, creamy and light. Attractive acid- full of fruitiness while also having a tight texture. rounded. Drink now. Apollo Fine Spirits. —R.V. ity along with a fresh apple character gives a fresh Its acidity just adds to the generally ripe character abv: 12.5% Price: $15 aftertaste. Drink now. This is one of the first vin- of the wine. Drink now. Misa Imports. —R.V. tages since Labouré-Roi, which was hit by scandal abv: 13% Price: $37 Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2013 Bourgogne. in 2012, passed into new ownership. Fruit of the 84 Crisp with an edge of honey, this is a ripe Vines, Inc. —R.V. Trenel Fils 2014 Homage to Heritage (Pouilly- and fruity wine. Along with apple and cantaloupe abv: 12.5% Price: $16 87 Fuissé). One of a range of wines under the melon flavors it has a nutty character and some light Homage to Heritage import label, this fruit-driven acidity, both of which add to its simple attraction. Vignerons de Mancey 2014 Mâcon. This is a wine has apple and green plum fruits, sustained Drink now. Misa Imports. —R.V. 85 light, fruity wine with lemon and apricot by great acidity and a crisp, mineral texture. Drink abv: 13% Price: $26 flavors and a citrus tang that gives a lift. It’s attrac- from 2016. Scott Levy Selection. —R.V. tive, fresh and with a ripe, warm aftertaste. Apollo abv: 13% Price: $18 Fine Spirits. —R.V. OTHER WHITE WINES abv: 12% Price: $14 Labouré-Roi 2013 Pouilly-Fuissé. Tropical 85 fruit and melon aromas are filled out with a Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen 2014 Trenel Fils 2014 Homage to Heritage (Mâcon- touch of toast and acidity. The result is a wine that 88 Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre. From vines 85 Villages). This ripe, pineapple- and peach- is not quite balanced, with wood and fruit still at planted to the west of Chablis, this is a soft, ripe flavored wine has a soft texture, hints of vanilla and odds. The aftertaste, with a creamy texture, is more and fruity wine. It has some tension from the min- light acidity. It is rounded, full in the mouth and attractive. This is one of the first vintages since La- erality while keeping the white fruit flavors to the with a light textured aftertaste. Drink now. Scott bouré-Roi, which was hit by scandal in 2012, passed fore. Drink now or, better, from late 2016. T. Elen- Levy Selection. —R.V. into new ownership. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. teny Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $19

Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen 2014 Cu- OTHER MÂCONNAIS BOURGOGNE 87 riosité de Bourgogne Sauvignon (Saint-Bris). Why, at the northern limits of Burgundy, there Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2013 Pouilly- Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen 2014 should be a small village producing Sauvignon Blanc 88 Vinzelles. This is a warm and rich wine from 88 Petit Chablis. Petit Chablis is planted on the is a curiosity, as the name of the wine suggests. This the southern Mâcon region. It is ripe with yellow plateau above the Serein river valley, the heart of ripe, tropical fruit and crisp green plum-flavored fruits, crisp apples and a touch of minerality that Chablis. This attractively fruity wine offers white wine is tightly textured and ready to drink. T. Elen- gives the tangy texture. Packed with fruit as well as fruits and crisp acidity. Light and refreshing, it is teny Imports. —R.V. structured, this wine can be drunk now, although ready to drink. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20 better from 2017. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $34 Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen 2014 Louis Max 2013 Côte Chalonnaise (Bour- 86 Cépage Confidentiel Sacy (Coteaux Bour- Trenel Fils 2014 Saint-Véran. Crisp and tex- 87 gogne). From Louis Max vineyards in the guignons). There are only a handful of acres of 86 tured, this is a ripe wine with a core of tight Côte Chalonnaise, this creamy, almost honeyed this vinifera vine left and wines like this are

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consequently rare, so much so that the Gueguens Domaine des Baumard 2012 Clos du Papillon François Millet 2014 Empreinte Blanc claim to be the only producers of 100% Sacy. This 93 (Savennières). Just beginning to soften, this 89 (). This tight and steely wine is light, crisp, fruity wine is low in alcohol and bright is turning into a finely crafted, fruity wine with a fresh with crisp fruits and a strongly herbaceous to taste. It is ready to drink. T. Elenteny Imports. tense, mineral structure. It is complex, ripe, packed character. It offers gooseberry, grapefruit and in- —R.V. with apples and with acidity. Taut, it needs to de- tense, youthful acidity that needs to calm down. abv: 12% Price: $NA velop further. Drink from 2018. Vintus LLC. —R.V. Give this very young wine until the end of 2016. T. abv: NA Price: $45 Elenteny Imports. —R.V. Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2013 Colette abv: 13% Price: $29 85 (Coteaux Bourguignons). With fruit drawn Domaine des Baumard 2013 Savennières. For from all over Burgundy, this is a light, bright and 92 full review see page 7. François Millet 2014 Domaine des Côtes refreshing wine. It has light acidity, spice and apple abv: 13% Price: $28 88 Blanches (Sancerre). Still so young, this flavors and a bright, tight aftertaste. Drink now. herbal, fruity wine is as crisp as possible. It is Misa Imports. —R.V. Domaine des Baumard 2011 Clos du Papil- packed with lemon, grapefruit and tight acidity, abv: 13% Price: $23 92 lon (Savennières). From a vineyard that is needing to age. Drink this tense, steely wine from shaped like a butterly (Papillon), this is a ripe, rich late 2016. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. Vignerons de Buxy 2014 Buissonnier (Bour- and dry wine. It has honey, almonds and fresh pear, abv: 13% Price: $27 85 gogne Aligoté). This fruity, ready-to-drink with a taut mineral structure to hold it all together. wine is crisp and packed with citrus and grapefruit Although delicious, the wine is still too young, so Henri Bourgeois 2014 Les Baronnes flavors. With bright final acidity, it is refreshing and wait until 2017 for it to begin to shine. Vintus LLC. 88 (Sancerre). An intense, mineral-driven herbal. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. —R.V. wine, this is tight and very textured. Its dryness is abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $45 mitigated by hints of riper mango and apricot that fill out the palate. The structure and the tense acid- ity show this wine is still young. Drink from 2017. LOIRE VALLEY Chambers & Chambers. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 MUSCADET SÈVRE ET MAINE Domaine Vincent Carême 2013 Le Peu Morier 91 (Vouvray). Made from old vines and vinified Château de la Ragotiere 2012 Vallet (Mus- in oak, this beautifully rich, very dry wine has both VAL DE LOIRE 92 cadet Sèvre et Maine). Aged on its lees for rounded apricots and quince plus a touch of toast. 30 months and bottled in March 2015, this is an It is still young, fresh and needs to age. Drink from Chatelain Desjacques 2014 Sauvignon Blanc exceptional Muscadet. It still has plenty of fresh- 2017 and the tense, youthful minerality will disap- 86 (Val de Loire). Produced in Anjou, this is a ness along with a tight, mineral texture and lightly pear and become richer and full. Cape Classics. Cel- totally crisp wine, with lemon and fresh gooseberry smoky flavors. The concentration gives the wine lar Selection. —R.V. flavors that just burst from the glass. It is bright and richness while it remains bone dry and crisp. It is abv: 12% Price: $40 fruity, with just a touch of mineral texture to add ready to drink. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. interest at the end. Apollo Fine Spirits. Best Buy. abv: 12% Price: $27 Clos du Caimont 2014 Vouvray. A crisp and —R.V. 89 dry Vouvray, this still has those telltale abv: 12% Price: $11 Château de la Ragotiere 2014 Les Schistes Sur honey flavors of delicious Chenin. It is rich and 91 Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). For full review dense while also having great acidity and a tight, Bernier 2014 Chardonnay (Val de Loire). This see page 14. Best Buy. taut texture that will soften as the wine ages. It can 84 soft, tank-aged wine has attractive apple abv: 12% Price: $15 be drunk now for its freshness, but it will be better fruits, a touch of citrus and crisp acidity. Light and from 2017. Cape Classics. —R.V. fruity, it is ready to drink. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. Château de la Ragotiere 2014 Cuvée Amélie abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 12% Price: $12 90 Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). For full review see page 11. Domaine Vincent Carême 2014 Spring (Vou- Bernier 2014 Sauvignon Blanc (Val de Loire). abv: 12% Price: $16 85 vray). The wine is all fruitiness, with attrac- 84 Less tangy than some Loire Sauvignon tive acidity and almond and lemon flavors. Made to Blanc, this easy, soft wine has attractive acidity Château de la Ragotiere 2014 Sélection be drunk instantly, it has the lightest texture, white and a balanced, steely texture. It’s crisp, with some 89 Vieilles Vignes Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et fruit flavors and a fresh, crisp aftertaste. Cape Clas- herbaceousness over grapefruit flavors. Drink now. Maine). For full review see page 14. Best Buy. sics. —R.V. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 12% Price: $14

Nicolas Idiart 2014 Sauvignon Blanc (Val SAVENNIÈRES SANCERRE 84 de Loire). While this wine has hints of a green herbal character, its main character con- Domaine des Baumard 2014 Trie Spéciale Henri Bourgeois 2013 Jadis (Sancerre). This veys creamed apples and even riper fruits such as 93 (Savennières). Released only in top vin- 94 superb unfiltered wine comes from some of white peach. It is soft and lightly textured with just tages, this wine comes from grapes picked during the steepest slopes around the village of Chavignol. a touch of final acidity. Drink now. Kindred Vines. selective passes in the vineyard. That has produced It is impressively dense and concentrated with lay- —R.V. a ripe, opulent wine that is just beginning to devel- ers of tight fruitiness, a strongly mineral texture and abv: 12% Price: $14 op hints of toast to soften the intense acidity and bone-dry acidity. It is a wine for aging several years. bright acidity. It’s a distinctive wine and likely to be Drink from 2018. Chambers & Chambers. —R.V. slow to mature. Drink from 2018. Vintus LLC. Cel- abv: 13% Price: $60 lar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 fumed, dry and very fruity. Drink now. USA Wine ripe red fruits and fresh acidity. The wine is ready to OTHER WHITE WINES West. —R.V. drink. Kindred Vines. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $18 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Henri Bourgeois 2014 En Travertin (Pouilly- 90 Fumé). The natural richness of a Pouilly- Nicolas Idiart 2014 Pinot Noir (Val de Loire). Fumé is revealed well here. Plenty of mineral, her- SWEET WINES 84 This wine is soft and fruity, with a smoky baceous flavors contrast with the ripe yellow and touch that adds interest. Red-cherry flavors and pear fruit flavors. It is generous and full in the Domaine des Baumard 2011 Clos de Sainte balanced acidity allow easy accessibility. The wine, mouth, still young and needing to age. Drink from 92 Catherine (Coteaux du Layon). Since the with its gentle texture, is ready to drink. Kindred 2017. Chambers & Chambers. —R.V. Baumards began bottling all their wines with screw Vines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 caps, it is noticeable how much more slowly they abv: 12% Price: $16 age. This pale gold-colored wine is still so full of Benoît Daridan 2014 Cheverny. Blending freshness and ripe mangos, meaning that it will age 87 Sauvignon Blanc with Chardonnay allows for many years yet. Honey, lemon jelly and a crisp SOUTHWEST FRANCE this wine to be broad, ripe and gently textured. Still texture add to the continuing potential of the wine. young, it is bone dry, crisp with citrus and rounded Drink from 2017. Vintus LLC. —R.V. WHITE WINES with almonds and white fruits. The wine needs a abv: 12.5% Price: $40 few more months, so drink from mid-2016. USA BERGERAC SEC Wine West. —R.V. Domaine des Baumard 2011 Quarts de abv: 12% Price: $18 92 Chaume. Light while also intense with good Château Bélingard 2013 Réserve (Bergerac acidity and unctuous honey flavors, this is already 88 Sec). The chalk subsoil of the Bélingard es- Domaine de Villargeau 2014 Coteaux du Gi- a delicious wine, even though it is young. Ripe or- tate gives this wine its textured character. The wood 86 ennois. Produced just north of Sancerre, ange and lemon go with the honey to give a fine aging smoothes out the crisp acidity of Sauvignon this wine shares many of the fresh, lightly herbal wine that could be drunk now, although that would Blanc and Sémillon and adds a light layer of toast. characters of those wines, just on a smaller, softer be a shame. It would be much better to wait until It is still a young wine and will be better from late scale. Fruity with lemon zest and crisp acidity, it is 2017. With just over 200 acres of vines, Quarts de 2016 or even 2017. Deutsch Family Wine and Spir- ready to drink now, though will be better from late Chaume is a tiny enclave in the Layon Valley. Vintus its. Best Buy. —R.V. 2016. Potomac Selections. —R.V. LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: 12.5% Price: $80 Château Bélingard 2014 Bélingard Blanc 87 (Bergerac Sec). This blend of Sauvignon CRÉMANT DE LOIRE RED WINES Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle is fruity and lightly perfumed. It has a herbal character as well, along Domaine des Baumard NV Carte Turquoise Henri Bourgeois 2012 La Bourgeoise with bright acidity and a chalk and mineral texture. 89 Brut (Crémant de Loire). This blend of 91 (Sancerre). Produced from old vines on the It is ready to drink, although it will be better from Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc is the most suc- Bourgeois estate, this wood-aged wine certainly late 2016. Total Wine & More. Best Buy. —R.V. cessful of the Baumard sparkling wines. It is fruity, shows its toastiness although it also has plenty of abv: 12.5% Price: $11 very fresh and crisp while also having the potential red-berry flavors as a balance. It is richly concen- for some bottle aging. Acidity and a tangy aftertaste trated, a good example of the richer, more serious Château Laulerie 2014 Bergerac Sec. This contribute to its lively freshness. Vintus LLC. —R.V. style of Pinot Noir that is coming from Sancerre. 84 fresh, vibrant wine is light and fruity. A abv: 12.5% Price: $24 It is structured and can age, so drink from 2017. classic blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, it Chambers & Chambers. —R.V. has an herbal character along with bright green and Domaine des Baumard NV Carte Corail Brut abv: 13% Price: $45 citrus fruits. The wine is ready to drink. Fruit of the 87 Rosé (Crémant de Loire). This is a Blanc de Vines, Inc. —R.V. Noirs, produced from Cabernet Franc in Anjou. It’s a Benoît Daridan 2014 Cheverny. Dominated by abv: 12.5% Price: $12 ripe, soft while still very fresh wine with a perfumed 87 Pinot Noir, this is a tight and stalky wine. It character. Red berries and fresh apples blend easily is almost too light, with its acidity and tight tannins together to give a fruity wine that is ready to drink. to the front. Probably as it softens it will round out, OTHER WHITE WINES Vintus LLC. —R.V. so wait until late 2016 to drink. USA Wine West. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 —R.V. Domaine d’Arton 2012 Les Deux Cèdres (Côtes abv: 12% Price: $18 87 de Gascogne). This is a well-balanced wine Domaine des Baumard NV Extra Brut Rosé with honeyed ripeness contrasted with attractive, 85 (Crémant de Loire). There are hints of bottle François Millet 2013 Empreinte Rouge crisp acidity. Pineapple and baked-apple flavors are age on this strawberry-flavored wine. They give it a 86 (Sancerre). This soft and smooth wine has given a texture by the zing of the honey. It is ready more woody, toasty character that takes away from just the right amount of smoky tannins to support to drink. Margron Skoglund. —R.V. the freshness that a wine like this needs. The after- the ripe, bitter cherry fruits and fresh acidity. It is abv: 12.5% Price: $15 taste conveys caramel and spice. Vintus LLC. —R.V. still all fruit and certainly would benefit from aging, abv: 12.5% Price: $32 so drink from 2017. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. Domaine de Mirail 2014 (Côtes abv: 13% Price: $29 86 de Gascogne). From vines in the northeast corner of the Gers, this wine is fruity, fragrant and ROSÉ Nicolas Idiart 2014 Angelliaume Domaine crisply perfumed. It is light on the palate, dancing 85 des Falaises (Chinon). Cigar-box aromas with fresh acidity and a lightly herbal character. Benoît Daridan 2014 Rosé (Cheverny). Made and a perfumed, fruity character give this wine a Drink now. David Bowler Wine. Best Buy. —R.V. 87 from Pinot Noir, this fresh and light rosé is typical Cabernet Franc character. It is structured, abv: 12.5% Price: $10 packed with red berries and lively acidity. It is per- with some firm tannins at the core, surrounded by

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Château Laulerie 2014 Comtesse de Ségur aftertaste. Drink now, or better age until 2017. Total beginning, the entry point to the rich black fruits 85 (Montravel). Simple, fresh and fruity, this Wine & More. Best Buy. —R.V. and concentrated texture. The wine, from a good has attractive herbal flavors and crisp citrus. It has abv: NA Price: $13/500 ml vintage, is powerful, dense and needs to age. Drink a tangy edge that will allow it to age a little longer. from 2018. Jomada Imports. —R.V. Drink now, but better from early 2017. Fruit of the Château de Gayon 2010 Gouttes de Soleil abv: 13.5% Price: $26 Vines, Inc. —R.V. 90 (Pacherenc du Vic Bilh). In keeping with abv: 13% Price: $19 the style of dessert wine in this region, this wine Château de Gayon 2009 Dou Hauret (Madi- is beautifully balanced between acidity and intense 91 ran). In this ripe, smooth wine, the fruit sweetness. Together they give a wine that is so fresh, dominates the tannic structure. Black fruits, dense ROSÉS packed with a crisp texture as well as ripe apricot plums and blackberry flavors are rich and concen- and white peach flavors that are just touched by trated. The firmer underlay is dark, brooding and Château Famaey 2014 Rosé (Côtes du Lot). honey. Drink now for its freshness, although it will promises good aging. This is not a shy wine and it 86 Despite its naturally tannic character, Mal- be even better if aged until 2018. Jomada Imports. will also need aging, so drink from 2018. Jomada bec makes delicious rosé, like this, that allows the —R.V. Imports. —R.V. red fruit and fresh acidity free rein. The wine has abv: 12% Price: $NA/500 ml abv: 14% Price: $26 a slight structure, although it is more about deli- ciously fresh fruit. Drink now. Virtuoso Selections. Château Bélingard 2012 Réserve (Monbazil- Château Peyros 2011 Tannat-Cabernet Franc —R.V. 89 lac). Considerable both in its aro- 90 (Madiran). This ripe wine with open fruits abv: 12% Price: $12 mas and in its palate give this wine richness and has 40% Cabernet Franc in the blend, which lends a textured, sweet and dry character. Honeyed with an attractive perfumed character and gives the wine Château Bélingard 2014 Bélingard (Bergerac bitter marmalade and dried apricot flavors , it is rich character and fruitiness. It will age for a few 85 Rosé). Quite pale, this blend of Cabernet still young. Drink from 2017. Deutsch Family Wine more years and be ready to drink from 2017. Baron Sauvignon and Merlot is soft, fruity and ready to and Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. Francois Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. drink. Attractive red fruits and light acidity give a abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $13 tangy, fresh aftertaste. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —R.V. Château Bélingard 2014 Bélingard Moelleux abv: 12.5% Price: $12 86 (Bergerac). This blend of Sémillon and Sau- CAHORS vignon Gris is medium dry in character, with fruity Domaine d’Arton 2014 Ysé Rosé (Côtes de acidity and a floral character from the Sauvignon Château Eugénie 2012 Haute Collection (Ca- 84 Gascogne). Made from Syrah, this pink-col- Gris. A crisp, light fruitiness makes it an attractive 94 hors). Top of the range from Eugénie, this ored rosé is ripe and full. Full-on strawberry flavors apéritif wine. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. pure Malbec is huge, firm and very concentrated. have a bitter edge as well as acidity. It needs to be —R.V. Wood aging has added spice and emphasized the drunk now. Margron Skoglund. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA dryness that comes from the fruit and wood tan- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 nins. But the fruit is all there, a juicy background that will come out as the wine ages. Drink this im- SOUTHWEST FRANCE pressive wine from 2020. Solstars Inc. —R.V. SWEET WINES abv: 13% Price: $40 RED WINES Château Jolys 2012 Cuvée Jean (Jurançon). Château de Gaudou 2013 Le Sang de la Vigne 93 This honeyed wine is so balanced and el- MADIRAN 93 Signé Benjamin Cooker (Cahors). Named af- egant. It combines ripe yellow fruits, wild honey ter enologist Benjamin Cooker, this wine was aged and the most wonderful intense acidity that is the Château Peyros 2011 Vieilles Vignes (Madi- in egg-shaped cement tanks. Pure Malbec that is hallmark of Petit Manseng. It is a young wine, still 93 ran). This blend of 80% Tannat and 20% rich, rounded with spice and firm tannins, it has bursting with freshness and sliced-apple crispness. Cabernet Franc has given a wine that is both dense a generous, spacious character that is beginning Wait until 2017 to drink. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. and smoothly ripe. Rich black fruits dominate, sup- to develop. With a dark background to the black- abv: 13% Price: $18/375ml ported by a dry, solid structure from the Tannat. It currant fruits, this needs to age. Drink from 2018. is a wine to age, so drink from 2019. Baron Francois Laville Imports. —R.V. Château de Gayon 2009 Gouttes de Soleil Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 92 (Pacherenc du Vic Bilh). As it ages, this abv: 14% Price: $16 wine’s color becomes deeper and more golden. The Château Eugénie 2012 Cuvée Réserve de palate has lost its early acidity and gained richer Château Peyros 2012 Cuvée Greenwich 93 l’Aïeul (Cahors). With Tannat blended with tropical fruit, honey and layers of botrytis. It will 92 (Madiran). Still so young, this is a dense, Malbec, this is a dark, tannic and brooding wine. Al- always have a light touch with a crisp texture that hugely concentrated black-colored wine, dark with most black in color, it is concentrated and very firm, underlies the riper fruits and sweetness. Drink from tannins and rich with powerful black plum and with spice, pepper and an intense core of dryness. 2017. Jomada Imports. —R.V. damson fruits. Powered and very ageworthy, it will There is power in this solid wine, with the poten- abv: 12.5% Price: $26 be best drunk from 2020. The wine takes its name tial of juicy fruit and considerable aging. Drink this from the Zero Longitude Greenwich meridian that dense wine from 2019. Solstars Inc. —R.V. Château Bélingard 2011 Blanche de Bosre- passes through the vineyard. Baron Francois Ltd. abv: 13% Price: $25 90 don (Monbazillac). Monbazillac, with its —R.V. impressive castle, is part of the Bergerac region that abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Château Famaey 2011 Cuvée X (Cahors). makes some beautiful dessert wines. This wine, 93 This is the big wine from Famaey. Bold, ripe with its refreshing balance between acidity and Château de Gayon 2010 Dou Hauret (Madi- black fruits are rich and generous in character. With rich honeyed flavors, conveys Seville orange mar- 91 ran). Produced in the foothills of the Pyre- a tarry backdrop and some dry tannins from wood malade and lemon acidity, with a smooth, botrytis nees mountains, this structured Tannat-based wine aging, the wine is dense, generous and still young. is dense and firm. Its tannins though are just the

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Drink this powerful wine from 2020. Virtuoso Se- is structured, with dry tannins in the background, lections. —R.V. but up front is fruity, bold and with a lightly smoky, BERGERAC abv: 14.5% Price: $30 perfumed aftertaste. It is almost ready to drink; just wait until late 2016. Misa Imports. —R.V. Château Laulerie 2012 Elevé en Fûts de Château Eugénie 2013 Cuvée Réserve de abv: 13% Price: $25 88 Chêne (Bergerac). The wood aging still 92 l’Aïeul (Cahors). Powerful tannins are the shows in this wine, although not too aggressively. hallmark of this dense wine, hardly surprising con- Château de Gaudou 2013 Grande Lignée It also has layers of spice, acidity and plenty of red sidering the blending of Malbec and Tannat. The 89 (Cahors). With 14 months oak aging, this berry fruits. Let it soften and drink from 2017. also has the concentrated fruit to go with the structured, spicy wine shows considerable toast. of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. structure, with its black plum and dark berry fla- A strongly smoky character is freshened by the red abv: 13.5% Price: $14 vors. Structure and fleshy fruit are coming together currant and blackberry fruitiness. Acidity gives the well, just needing time. Drink from 2018. Bad Boy. wine a lift and also promises aging. Drink from 2017. Château Bélingard 2014 Bélingard Rouge Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Laville Imports. —R.V. 85 (Bergerac). The Malbec in the blend adds abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $19 its tannins to this wine meant to drink young. The spice and wood aging are balanced with acidity and Château Eugénie 2012 Cuvée Tsar Pierre le Château Famaey 2012 Classic (Cahors). a juicy aftertaste. Drink from late 2016. Deutsch 92 Grand (Cahors). Named after the 18th Rus- 89 With plenty of solid tannins to keep the Family Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. sian Tsar, Peter the Great, this is serious, powerful structure firm, this is also based around fresh black abv: 13% Price: $10 wine. It’s a powerhouse of ripe fruits, blackberries, fruits. The two elements have produced a wine that, dark plums and solid tannins. With a solid, firm as it matures, will become balanced and poised. It’s Château Laulerie 2014 Merlot (Bergerac). background of wood and spice as well as acidity, it’s not dense, but presents elegant structure that has 85 While this wine is packed with red-berry concentrated and needing to age. Drink from 2018. enough richness. Drink this wine from 2018. Vir- flavors, it is still too young with its stalky edge. Tan- Solstars Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. tuoso Selections. —R.V. nins and smoky flavors are there along with intense abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 acidity. Keep it until late 2016 for it to be at its best. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Château Famaey 2011 Fût de Chêne (Cahors). Château Eugénie 2013 Tradition (Cahors). abv: 13.5% Price: $12 91 The oak aging, implicit in the name of the 88 Like most Tradition wines in Cahors, this wine, is present in its smooth character. This bot- fruity and perfumed wine has been aged in stain- Château Laulerie 2013 Malbec (Bergerac). tling is in the elegant style typical of Famaey wines less steel to keep the fruitiness. Blackberry flavors 85 Although less common than it once was, and also has weight and firm, concentrated black are cut with acidity and a tight tannic character. It Malbec is still often part of the blend in red Berger- fruit with acidity and a dry core. Drink from 2019. needs to age another few months, so drink from late ac. However, this pure Malbec is unusual. It’s dark Virtuoso Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 2016. Bad Boy. —R.V. in color, with an almost medicinal aroma. The pal- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 ate is pure black fruit with firm tannins to support the smoky blackberry flavors. Drink young for the Château Eugénie 2013 Cuvée Tsar Pierre le Château Saint-Didier-Parnac 2014 Prieuré de fruitiness. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 90 Grand (Cahors). This wine is very struc- 88 Cénac Mission (Cahors). Bright and fruity, abv: 12.5% Price: $13 tured and firm. With some barrel aging, the tannins this accessible wine is ready to drink. Fresh and have been smoothed out although the wine remains packed with red berries, it is juicy and fresh. The af- Chêne Peyraille Tradition 2014 Cabernet with a dry core and fresh acidity. Black-currant tertaste, with its acidity, has a touch of spice. Drink 85 Franc (Bergerac). This soft, juicy and fruity flavors dominate, giving a wine that is bright and now. Misa Imports. —R.V. wine has an attractive perfumed, cigar-box charac- fruity at the end. Bad Boy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 ter. It is full of blackberry fruits with a soft, gentle abv: 12.5% Price: $20 aftertaste. W. Direct. —R.V. Château de Gaudou 2014 Tradition (Cahors). abv: NA Price: $NA Château Eugénie 2012 Tradition (Cahors). 87 The simplest and fruitiest of the Cahors 90 This dense and dark wine offers spice and made at Gaudou, this is still a structured wine that toast flavors. It has a big, generous feel, leaving has some firm, very young tannins that need to CÔTES DE BERGERAC room both for the dry, still-young tannins and for round out. Plenty of fruity, fresh black-currant fla- aromatic blackberry fruits. It does need to age, so vor is cut by crisp acidity. The wine will need to age, Château Bélingard 2010 Ortus (Côtes de drink from 2017. Solstars Inc. —R.V. so drink from 2016. Laville Imports. —R.V. 91 Bergerac). The great 2010 vintage has pro- abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $17 duced an appropriately powerful and dense wine. With its tannins and concentrated, dry flavors, this Château Saint-Didier-Parnac 2014 Château Château du Caillau 2013 Cahors. This big, wine is still young. It has power, the rich black fruit 90 de Grézels Prestige (Cahors). The 91-acre 87 firm wine offers serious tannins as well as still masked by the structure. It will need long ag- Grézels vineyard surrounds a 12th-century castle. rich blackberry fruits. It’s a structured, dark wine, ing, so drink from 2018. Deutsch Family Wine and This revived historic vineyard has produced a well- spicy from wood aging and ripely concentrated. Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. structured wine that is rich, despite its modest al- Drink from 2017. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $27 cohol. It is dense with tannins and black fruits that abv: 13.5% Price: $18 are developing into a smoother texture. The wine Château Bélingard 2011 Ortus (Côtes de needs to age further, so drink from 2017. Misa Im- Clément Bosquet 2014 Cahors. For a Cahors, 90 Bergerac). The top cuvée from Bélingard is ports. —R.V. 84 this is a surprisingly light and gently fruity a rich wine, full of young tannins as well as dense abv: 12.5% Price: $21 wine. It is dry, with some tannic character, but it is blackberry fruits. It is still very structured, showing much more about youthful black fruit flavors than its wood aging. The texture will smooth out into a Château Saint-Didier-Parnac 2014 Prieuré it is about structure. It is ready to drink now W. Di- rich, complex wine. Drink from 2017. Deutsch Fam- 90 de Cénac (Cahors). This wine is all about rect. —R.V. ily Wine and Spirits. —R.V. juicy blackberry and delicious ripe black plums. It abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $27

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Château Bélingard 2012 Réserve (Côtes de white pepper and tobacco alongside firm but ultra- Cavallotto 2009 Vignolo Riserva (Barolo). 88 Bergerac). This ripe, fruity and structured fine tannins. It’s already tempting but hold to let it 95 Perfumed with woodland berry, dried rose, wine is still young and the tannins need time to unwind and develop more complexity. Drink 2018– cake spice and sweet pipe tobacco, this is one of the round out. However, it is already rich, with juicy 2035. Rare Wine Company. Cellar Selection. —K.O. most impressive of the ’09 Riservas. The delicious, red fruits and a core of fragrant acidity. The wine abv: 14.5% Price: $100 full-bodied palate offers layers of juicy black cherry, is dense and worth aging. Drink from 2017. Deutsch clove, cinnamon, licorice and mineral. Firm, ripe Family Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. Elvio Cogno 2010 Bricco Pernice (Barolo). tannins give it structure and a polished feel. Drink abv: 13.5% Price: $13 96 Radiant and structured, this is initially 2019–2029. Giuliana Imports. —K.O. closed but slowly opens to reveal engaging aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $100 of woodland berry, violet, star anise, dark cooking OTHER RED WINES spice and a balsamic note. The vibrant, full-bodied Elvio Cogno 2011 Ravera (Barolo). For full re- palate boasts great energy while offering layers of 95 view see page 3. Cellar Selection. Domaine d’Arton 2014 La Croix d’Argon wild cherry, raspberry, white pepper and licorice. abv: 14.5% Price: $76 90 (Côtes de Gascogne). This blend of Bor- Bright acidity and firm, polished tannins provide deaux grapes with Syrah is rich and spicy. It is balance. Give it time to fully develop. Drink between Giovanni Rosso 2011 Cerretta (Barolo). You’ll made to be drunk young, with touches of toast and 2020 and 2035. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selec- 95 discover alluring aromas of baked earth, a dense texture that brings out the perfumed char- tion. —K.O. black and red berry, sweet baking spice, crushed acter of Syrah balanced with Bordeaux structure. abv: 14.5% Price: $110 flower, vineyard dust and a whiff of leather on this The wine is ready to drink, although it will be better impressive wine. The delicious, powerful palate from late 2016. Margron Skoglund. Best Buy. —R.V. Brovia 2011 Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia (Barolo). En- boasts juicy red cherry, black raspberry, cinnamon, abv: 13.5% Price: $13 95 ticing aromas of wild berry, pressed rose, anise and tobacco while firm, fine-grained tannins cake spice and chewing tobacco come together on provide support and lend finesse. The Sorting Table. Château Famaey 2014 Chevalier Famaey this gorgeous wine. The firmly structured palate —K.O. 86 Malbec (Côtes du Lot). This wine reflects a delivers juicy black cherry, crushed raspberry, cin- abv: 14% Price: $95 fruity, young and fresh style. It’s packed with bright namon, licorice and clove. It’s well balanced, with red fruits; a soft texture hints at minerality and ripe, velvety tannins that will make it approachable Giuseppe Rinaldi 2011 Tre Tine (Barolo). great acidity. It’s made to be drunk young, without earlier than other vintages but still age-worthy. 95 Mature dark berry, cake spice, baked earth, any wood aging, so drink now and until 2017. Scott Drink 2019–2036. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. Cel- leather and a whiff of game are just some of the aro- Levy Selection. —R.V. lar Selection. —K.O. mas you’ll find on this impressive wine. The chewy abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $95 palate offers ripe black cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon, white pepper and aromatic herb along- Château Laulerie 2012 Comtesse de Ségur 2012 Asili (Barolo). Red side a backbone of firm, ripe tannins and racy acid- 90 (Montravel). An impressive blend of Merlot 95 rose, iris, perfumed berry and baking spice ity. Drink 2019–2031. Vinifera Imports. Cellar Se- and Malbec, this is a solid, dark wine packed with emerge on this stunning, vibrant wine. The elegant- lection. —K.O. both tannins and ripe berry fruits. It has a serious ly structured palate offers crushed raspberry, juicy abv: 14.5% Price: $125 character with toast, acidity and complex spice fla- red cherry, cinnamon and chopped herb while fresh vors. Drink from 2018. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Edi- acidity and polished tannins provide a bright, ele- Guido Porro 2011 Vigna S. Caterina (Barolo). tors’ Choice. —R.V. gant framework. Drink 2018–2027. Folio Fine Wine 95 This gorgeous wine offers classic Nebbiolo abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Partners. —K.O. aromas of pressed rose, mature berry, crushed mint abv: 14.5% Price: $200 and baking spice. The structured, savory palate of- Le Haut Païs 2014 Périgord. The name, Haut fers juicy wild cherry, raspberry, star anise, tobacco 84 Païs means high country in the local south- Bruno Giacosa 2011 Falletto (Barolo). One of and clove alongside firm, fine-grained tannins. west dialect and this wine comes from the hills of 95 the most balanced and impressive Drink 2018–2028. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. the eastern Dordogne. It is light and fruity, a cool from the hot 2011 vintage, this opens with alluring —K.O. wine with some attractive, ready-to-drink red fruits aromas of mature black cherry, tobacco and spice. abv: NA Price: $47 and just a touch of structure. W. Direct. —R.V. The smooth, full-bodied palate abounds with ripe abv: 12.5% Price: $NA raspberry, juicy strawberry, chopped herb, clove Ca’Romè 2011 Cerretta (Barolo). Firm and and cinnamon alongside firm but polished tannins 94 refined, this opens with aromas of wild ber- Le Haut Païs 2014 Merlot (Périgord). This that give the wine a silky mouthfeel. Drink 2018– ry, leather, game and a note of chopped herb. The 83 wine is soft and juicy without great focus. 2031. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O. round, full-bodied palate delivers ripe black cherry, It has a light feel, with fresh jammy red fruits and abv: 15% Price: $250 clove, toast, mint and licorice alongside ripe, velvety a gentle breeze of tannins. Drink now. W. Direct. tannins and fresh acidity. It should develop more —R.V. Castello di Verduno 2011 Massara (Barolo). complexity over the next decade. Drink 2016–2026. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 95 Violet, rose, perfumed berry and a whiff Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. of sweet cake spice are some of the enticing scents abv: 14.5% Price: $103 you’ll find on this impressive wine. On the delicious PIEDMONT palate, notes of clove, cinnamon, mocha, licorice Cascina Cucco 2011 Cerrati (Barolo). Firmly and raspberry weave seamlessly throughout the 94 structured, this opens with aromas of dark BAROLO juicy black cherry core. It’s elegantly structured, berry, tilled earth, leather, game, and a balsamic with fresh acidity and firm, ripe tannins. Drink note. The palate offers depth and layers of flavor in- Mascarello Giuseppe e Figlio 2010 Villero 2020–2036. Omniwines Distribution. Cellar Se- cluding ripe black cherry, crushed raspberry, grilled 97 (Barolo). Enticing aromas of iris, rose, per- lection. —K.O. porcini, clove, anise, truffle and a hint of chocolate fumed red berry and cake spice emerge on this stun- abv: NA Price: $85 alongside closely-knit, noble tannins. Drink 2019– ning wine. The elegantly structured, silky palate 2031. Siena Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. delivers juicy wild cherry, crushed raspberry, mint, abv: 15% Price: $69

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Castello di Verduno 2009 Monvigliero Riser- unwind. It’s still young and wound up but should cious, structured palate doles out layers of succu- 94 va (Barolo). Powerfully built, this opens evolve majestically over the next decade and then lent black cherry, raspberry, cake spice, licorice and with a potpourri of aromas including pressed rose, maintain for years. Drink 2020–2040. Rare Wine chopped aromatic herb alongside velvety tannins. violet, mature berry, baking spice and a whiff of Company. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Well balanced and surprisingly weightless, the 15% leather. Dried black cherry, licorice, pipe tobacco, abv: 14.5% Price: $125 abv isn’t detectable. Massanois Imports. —K.O. nutmeg and a balsamic note wrap around the grip- abv: 15% Price: $80 ping palate alongside a backbone of ripe, assertive Michele Chiarlo 2011 Cerequio (Barolo). Aro- tannins. Hold for even more complexity. Drink 94 mas of dark berry steeped in spirits, baking San Biagio 2011 Sorano (Barolo). Classically 2020–2032. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. spice, crushed flower, mocha, eucalyptus and pipe 94 crafted, this impressive wine opens with al- abv: 14.5% Price: $100 tobacco come together on this stunning wine. The luring Nebbiolo aromas of mature dark berry, pine firm palate boasts more fruit than many from this forest, leather, aromatic herb, baking spice and an Fontanafredda 2011 Vigna La Rosa (Barolo). vintage, delivering juicy dark cherry, ripe raspberry, earthy whiff of game. The full-bodied palate deliv- 94 For full review see page 4. vanilla, cake spice and licorice alongside firm but ers juicy wild cherry, black raspberry, licorice, clove abv: NA Price: $96 refined tannins and bright acidity. It’s youthfully and tobacco alongside firm, refined tannins. It’s al- assertive but balanced, with serious aging poten- ready tempting but hold to let it fully develop. Drink Fratelli Alessandria 2011 Barolo. Enticing tial. Drink 2021–2041. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. 2018–2031. Veritas Marketing & Distribution. Edi- 94 scents of rose, violet, smoke, red berry and —K.O. tors’ Choice. —K.O. white pepper are just some of the aromas you’ll find abv: NA Price: $101 abv: 14% Price: $46 on this stunning wine. The elegantly structured pal- ate delivers juicy wild cherry, crushed raspberry, Mirafiore 2011 Paiagallo (Barolo). A clas- Sordo 2011 Rocche di Castiglione (Barolo). cake spice and mineral alongside elegant tannins 94 sic Nebbiolo fragrance of perfumed berry, 94 Aromas of forest floor, mature berry, dark and bright acidity. A licorice note signals the close. rose petal, tilled soil, chopped herb and a whiff of culinary spice, wild mint and a whiff of violet come Drink 2016–2026. Artisan Wines, Inc. Editors’ baking spice pervades this firm, full-bodied wine. together on this impressive wine. The full-bodied Choice. —K.O. The chewy palate offers juicy black cherry, crushed palate displays layers of mature black cherry, rasp- abv: 14.5% Price: $52 raspberry, clove, anise and a hint of tobacco framed berry jam, licorice and chopped herb framed in in firm, ripe tannins and vibrant acidity. Drink bracing tannins and fresh acidity. Even though it Germano Ettore 2011 del Comune di Ser- 2019–2026. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O. seems inviting, give it time to settle down and come 94 ralunga d’Alba (Barolo). Aromas of mature abv: 14.5% Price: $135 together. Drink 2020–2030. Tri-Vin Imports. Cel- berry, menthol, licorice, cooking spice and a bal- lar Selection. —K.O. samic note lead the nose. The firm palate is still 2009 Rocche di Castiglione Fal- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 tightly wound but already offers wild cherry, white 94 letto Riserva (Barolo). Fragrant and pol- pepper, grilled herb, tobacco and anise. It’s balanced ished, this opens with enticing scents of perfumed Umberto Fracassi 2011 Mantoetto (Barolo). and fresh, with ripe but youthfully bracing tannins. berry, baking spice, rose, grilled herb and pipe to- 94 Fragrant and firmly structured, this offers Drink after 2019. Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O. bacco. The delicious palate offers juicy black cherry, enticing scents of ripe berry, baking spice, tobacco, abv: NA Price: $50 mocha, anise and a balsamic note while smooth, leather and a balsamic note. The solid palate doles velvety tannins give it an elegant texture. Drink out sour cherry, crushed raspberry, strawberry, Luigi Baudana 2011 Baudana (Barolo). Al- 2019–2029. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Editors’ cinnamon, clove and anise. A tannic backbone and 94 luring aromas of ripe black-skinned fruit, Choice. —K.O. bright acidity lend structure and balance. It boasts a cooking spice, eucalyptus and a whiff of game abv: 14.5% Price: $43 surprisingly age-worthy structure given the heat of emerge on this full-bodied, earthy wine. The pal- the vintage. Drink 2019–2031. —K.O. ate demonstrates structure and elegance, delivering Palladino 2011 Parafada (Barolo). Full-bod- abv: NA Price: $NA mature black cherry marinated in spirits, licorice, 94 ied and delicious, this opens with aromas pipe tobacco, clove and balsamic notes alongside of red berry, rose, underbrush, kitchen spice and a Amalia 2011 Barolo. Mature berry, new firm, velvety tannins. While this is already almost balsamic note. The structured palate doles out juicy 93 leather, spice and balsamic aromas lead the accessible it will offer years of drinking pleasure. wild cherry, crushed raspberry, clove, white pep- nose. The bold palate doles out baked cherry, black Martin Scott Wines. —K.O. per, grilled herb, vanilla and mineral alongside firm, raspberry, white pepper, clove and grilled herb bal- abv: 14.5% Price: $85 fine-grained tannins. It already has nice depth but anced by firm, refined tannins and fresh acidity. A hold for more complexity. Drink 2019–2031. Enotec tobacco note closes the finish. It’s already almost Luigi Baudana 2011 Cerretta (Barolo). Dark Imports, Inc. Cellar Selection. —K.O. accessible but will drink well for years. Drink 2017– 94 berry, pressed flower, iron, leather and abv: 14.5% Price: $68 2026. Votto Vines Importing. —K.O. spice aromas come together on this firmly struc- abv: NA Price: $60 tured wine. The full-bodied palate delivers juicy Paolo Scavino 2009 Rocche dell’Annunziata black cherry, eucalyptus, anise and clove alongside 94 Riserva (Barolo). Red rose, mature wild ber- Azelia 2011 Margheria (Barolo). Intense big, velvety tannins. A licorice note closes the lin- ry, dark cooking spice and a balsamic note are some 93 aromas of rose, iris, perfumed berry and gering finish. It’s already almost approachable but of the aromas you’ll find on this gorgeous wine. eucalyptus lead the way on this radiant wine. The hold for more complexity. Drink 2018–2028. Mar- The structured, elegant palate delivers juicy black vibrant palate offers juicy wild cherry, raspberry, tin Scott Wines. —K.O. cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice pipe tobacco and grilled sage, menthol and dark kitchen spice while abv: 14.5% Price: $85 mocha balanced by firm, silky tannins and surpris- firm, fine-grained tannins provide the framework. ing freshness for the vintage. Martin Scott Wines. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. Mascarello Giuseppe e Figlio 2010 Perno Vi- —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA 94 gna Santo Stefano (Barolo). Aromas of un- abv: 14.5% Price: $180 derbrush, tilled soil, woodland berry and crushed Bel Colle 2011 Simposio (Barolo). For full re- rose unfold in the glass. The firm palate offers ma- Poderi 2011 Bussia (Barolo). 93 view see page 5. ture red cherry, strawberry, clove, mint and licorice 94 Full-bodied and fragrant this offers lovely abv: NA Price: $60 alongside tightly knit, austere tannins that need to aromas of rose, violet and ripe red berry. The deli-

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Beni di Batasiolo 2011 Bussia Vigneto Bo- Elvio Cogno 2011 Cascina Nuova (Barolo). Massolino 2009 Vigna Rionda Riserva (Baro- 93 fani (Barolo). Firm and fragrant, this of- 93 Forest floor, truffle, wild berry and a whiff 93 lo). Ripe berry, aromatic herb, rose, violet, fers aromas of wild berry, forest floor, pressed rose, of grilled herb unfold on this full-bodied red. The anise, leather and a whiff of tobacco all meld togeth- baking spice and a balsamic whiff of menthol. The savory, structured palate displays ripe black cher- er on this firmly structured wine. The full-bodied, bold, robust palate doles out cherry-marinated in ry, crushed raspberry, licorice, clove and a hint of gripping palate delivers mature black cherry, lico- spirits, fleshy raspberry, licorice and chewing to- chewing tobacco alongside a firm, tannic backbone. rice, underbrush and dark baking spice alongside bacco alongside firm, velvety tannins. Thanks to the Drink 2019–2031. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selec- youthfully assertive but velvety-textured tannins. juicy fruit, you can’t detect the hefty alcohol. Drink tion. —K.O. Drink 2019–2029. Vineyard Brands. —K.O. through 2026. Batasiolo USA. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $58 abv: 14% Price: $140 abv: 15% Price: $79 Fontanafredda 2011 del Comune di Serralun- Michele Chiarlo 2011 Tortoniano (Barolo). For Beni di Batasiolo 2011 Corda della Briccolina 93 ga d’Alba (Barolo). For full review see page 93 full review see page 6. Cellar Selection. 93 (Barolo). Menthol, tobacco, dark berry, va- 5. abv: 14% Price: $55 nilla, a whiff of oak and a hint of cured meat lead the abv: 14% Price: $45 nose on this structured, elegant wine. The delicious Mirafiore 2011 Barolo. Classic Nebbiolo aro- palate offers succulent wild cherry, mint, espresso, Germano Ettore 2011 Cerretta (Barolo). Aro- 93 mas of red berry, leather, crushed flower coconut and white pepper. Fresh acidity and firm, 93 mas of baked plum, crushed blue flower, and a balsamic note unfold in the glass. The full- ultra-fine tannins balance it out and promise mid- allspice, leather and chopped herb come together bodied palate doles out juicy black cherry, licorice term aging potential. Drink 2018–2026. Batasiolo on this on young, powerfully built wine. The taut and tobacco alongside firm, refined tannins. Drink USA. —K.O. palate delivers black cherry, cinnamon, tobacco, 2018–2026. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $90 licorice and toast alongside bracing, fine-grained abv: 14% Price: $49 tannins that need to time to come around. Drink Bric Cenciurio 2011 Coste di Rose (Barolo). 2021–2031. Oliver McCrum Wines. Cellar Selec- Palladino 2011 del Comune di Serralunga 93 This opens with aromas of blue and red tion. —K.O. 93 d’Alba (Barolo). Aromas of mature dark ber- flower, underbrush and mature, dark-skinned berry. abv: NA Price: $70 ry, baking spice, pipe tobacco and a balsamic note The tense palate offers black cherry, crushed rasp- lead the nose. The ripe palate doles out juicy wild berry, star anise tobacco and mocha alongside firm, Germano Ettore 2011 Prapò (Barolo). Aro- cherry, black raspberry, licorice grilled herb, clove fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. A note of 93 mas of ripe red berry, cake spice, tilled earth and tobacco alongside a backbone of fresh acidity chopped herb closes the finish. Drink 2018–2028. and a balsamic note unfold on this structured, el- and velvety tannins. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. Quigley Fine Wines. —K.O. egant red. On the full-bodied palate, notes of mint, abv: NA Price: $49 abv: 15% Price: $69 anise and a hint of mocha accent the juicy black cherry core while firm but refined tannins provide Paolo Scavino 2011 Cannubi (Barolo). At- Cagliero 2011 Ravera (Barolo). Here’s a bold, the framework. Drink 2018–2031. Oliver McCrum 93 tractive floral scents of crushed rose and 93 full-bodied red that opens with aromas of Wines. —K.O. pressed violet are joined by perfumed berry and a mature dark berry, Alpine herb, wild flower, and abv: NA Price: $70 hint of menthol. The elegant, focused palate de- a whiff of menthol. The firm, radiant palate offers livers wild cherry, raspberry, white pepper, clove bright red cherry, baking spice, licorice and sage Giacomo Fenocchio 2011 Castellero (Barolo). and chopped herb alongside a firm network of alongside bracing tannins and vibrant acidity. It’s 93 This structured wine opens with a quintes- fine-grained tannins. It’s still young and tight but still young and needs time to develop but already sential Nebbiolo nose of wild berry, baking spice, loaded with finesse. Drink 2019–2031. Martin Scott boasts classic Nebbiolo sensations. Drink after grilled herb, fragrant blue flower and a balsamic Wines. —K.O. 2021. Holiday Beverage. —K.O. note. The bracing palate delivers wild cherry, rasp- abv: 14.5% Price: $100 abv: NA Price: $80 berry, clove, licorice and a smattering of chopped herb alongside brisk acidity and tightly knit tan- Paolo Scavino 2011 Monvigliero (Barolo). Cantina del Pino 2011 Gallina (Barolo). nins. Drink 2019–2031. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. 93 Crushed iris, pressed rose, perfumed berry 93 Spiced berry, violet, menthol and anise abv: NA Price: $45 and eucalyptus scents come together on this stun- aromas float out of the glass. The elegant, firmly ning wine. The elegantly structured palate delivers structured palate doles out juicy black cherry, lico- Giovanni Rosso 2011 Serra (Barolo). This fo- red cherry, raspberry, white pepper, licorice and rice, white pepper, clove and a hint of pipe tobacco 93 cused, full-bodied wine opens with aromas chopped herb alongside well-knit, polished tannins alongside firm, fine-grained tannins that need a few of scorched earth, ripe black-skinned fruit and a and fresh acidity. This is one of the few 2011s that more years to unwind. Drink 2019–2031. Artisan whiff of game. The tight palate is still rather closed will do well with more cellaring. Drink 2019–2031. Wines, Inc. —K.O. but already offers dense black cherry, clove, licorice Martin Scott Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $66 and grilled herb alongside firm, fine-grained tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $70 nins. Drink 2021–2031. The Sorting Table. —K.O. Cascina del Monastero 2009 Bricco Rocca Ri- abv: 14% Price: $95 Piazzo Armando 2011 Barolo. Classic Neb- 93 und Riserva (Barolo). Classic Nebbiolo aro- 93 biolo aromas of wild berry, aromatic herb, mas of ripe dark berry, pressed rose, leather, mint Massolino 2011 Margheria (Barolo). Dark tilled soil and a balsamic note slowly emerge on and an earthy whiff of game almost jump out of the 93 berry, scorched earth, menthol and bak- this structured red. The focused, full-bodied palate glass. The firm, delicious palate offers juicy black ing spice aromas come together on this along with offers wild cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon, cherry, crushed black raspberry, ground pepper, a balsamic note. The tense palate delivers steeped white pepper, anise and mint alongside assertive cinnamon and mocha alongside big, velvety tannins. plum, dried black cherry, mint, sage clove and lico- tannins and bright acidity. It needs to come togeth- Drink through 2026. Metropolis Wine Merchants, rice set against youthfully assertive tannins. Drink er but already boasts finesse and complexity. Drink Inc. —K.O. 2019–2028. Vineyard Brands. —K.O. 2019–2031. Angelini Wine. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $120 abv: 14.5% Price: $99 abv: 14.5% Price: $40

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Rivetto 2011 del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba Drink 2016–2026. PG Imports. Editors’ Choice. trated palate shows dense black cherry marinated 93 (Barolo). Steeped plum, baked earth, grilled —K.O. in spirits, licorice, clove, toast and a hint of espresso herb and tobacco aromas come together on this abv: 14.5% Price: $49 accompanied by firm, fine-grained tannins. Drink structured wine. The savory palate offers rich black 2018–2028. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O. cherry, mocha, clove, dried herb and licorice along- Cascina Adelaide 2011 Preda (Barolo). Aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 side firm, ripe tannins. Drink after 2018. Voliovino. 92 mas of red berry, game, scorched earth and a —K.O. whiff of menthol emerge on this full-bodied Barolo. Gianfranco Alessandria 2011 Barolo. Aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $75 The linear, powerful palate offers succulent red 92 of scorched earth, mature dark fruit, dark cherry, wild berry, anise and baking spice alongside cooking spice and a whiff of leather emerge on this Sordo 2011 Gabutti (Barolo). Rose petal, per- firm but refined tannins and bright acidity. Give it structured wine. The brooding palate delivers black 93 fumed berry pressed powder and sweet cake time to unwind then enjoy. Drink after 2020. Supe- cherry, raspberry, clove, baking spice, anise and spice aromas lead the way. The vibrant palate offers rior Wines. —K.O. chopped herb alongside firm, ripe tannins and fresh crunchy red cherry, raspberry, white pepper, grilled abv: NA Price: $125 acidity. Give it a few more years to fully open. Drink herb and tobacco alongside fresh acidity and asser- after 2019. Saranty Imports. —K.O. tive tannins. Drink 2019–2029. Tri-Vin Imports. Cascina Bongiovanni 2011 Barolo. Rose, red abv: NA Price: $NA —K.O. 92 berry, mint and anise aromas unfold in the abv: 14.5% Price: $65 glass. The firm palate offers wild cherry, crushed Giovanni Rosso 2011 del Comune di Serralun- raspberry, clove, anisette and a mocha note framed 92 ga d’Alba (Barolo). This opens with earthy Vietti 2011 Ravera (Barolo). Engaging scents in bracing tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2020– aromas of ripe dark fruit, scorched earth, game 93 of wild berry, rose petal, aromatic herb and 2031. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. and truffle. The concentrated palate doles out juicy spice lead the nose. The full-bodied palate slowly abv: NA Price: $64 black cherry, crushed raspberry, sweet cake spice, reveals red cherry, anise, black pepper, clove and to- tobacco and herb accompanied by firm, fine-grained bacco framed in assertive tannins and bright acid- Ceretto 2011 Brunate (Barolo). Pressed rose, tannins and a vein of fresh acidity. The Sorting Ta- ity. Give this time to fully open and develop. Drink 92 woodland berry, sage and a whiff of exotic ble. —K.O. 2019–2031. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. spice emerge on this firmly structured wine. The abv: 14% Price: $53 abv: 14.5% Price: $150 taut palate delivers mature black cherry, ground pepper, clove and licorice alongside tight, fine- Grimaldi Bruna 2011 Bricco Ambrogio (Baro- Abbona Marziano 2011 Ravera (Barolo). Per- grained tannins and the warmth of alcohol. Give 92 lo). Dark berry, tilled soil and grilled herb 92 fumed berry, iris, rose, sweet baking spice it a few more years to unwind. Drink after 2019. aromas lead the nose while the solid palate offers aromas and a whiff of balsam lead the nose. The Winebow. —K.O. juicy black cherry, mocha, espresso and licorice. ripe, full-bodied palate offers wild cherry, fleshy abv: 15% Price: $110 Firm, polished tannins and fresh acidity provide raspberry, tobacco, toast, mocha and cinnamon balance and structure. Drink 2018–2026. Massa- alongside a tannic backbone and nervous acidity. Elvio Cogno 2009 Vigna Elena Riserva (Baro- nois Imports. —K.O. The heat of evident alcohol closes the finish but 92 lo). Aromas of dried rose, mature berry and abv: NA Price: $49 doesn’t dominate. Drink 2018–2026. Frederick dark kitchen spice lead the nose on this full-bodied Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. wine. The palate offers more spice than fruit rich- Livia Fontana 2009 Riserva (Barolo). Wild abv: NA Price: $78 ness, with dried wild cherry, licorice and black pep- 92 berry, grilled herb, violet and rose aromas per, while firm refined tannins provide the frame- come together in the glass. The full-bodied, savory Bersano 2011 Nirvasco (Barolo). Sour ber- work. It’s a great effort for this hot vintage. Drink palate doles out ripe, red cherry, crushed raspberry, 92 ry, rose, and chopped herb aromas follow 2017–2024. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. white pepper, sage and mocha accompanied by vel- through to the full-bodied palate along with black abv: 14.5% Price: $84 vety tannins and surprising freshness for the vin- raspberry, licorice and a hint of mocha. Firm, ripe tage. An orange zest note bolsters the finish. Votto tannins provide the framework while a balsamic Francesco Rinaldi 2011 Cannubi (Barolo). Vines Importing. —K.O. closes the finish. Drink 2018–2031. 8 Vini, Inc. 92 Subdued but classic Nebbiolo aromas of red abv: NA Price: $70 —K.O. berry, crushed rose, scorched earth and a balsamic abv: 14% Price: $65 note emerge on this full-bodied wine. The tight Luigi Baudana 2011 del Comune di Serralunga palate offers wild cherry, black raspberry, chopped 92 d’Alba (Barolo). Enticing aromas of rose, Brezza 2011 Castellero (Barolo). Red berry, mint and licorice supported by a backbone of fresh strawberry and baking spice meld together in the 92 aromatic herb, blue flower and baking spice acidity and firm tannins. Multiple U.S. importers. glass while the creamy, delicious palate doles out aromas emerge on this firmly structured wine. The —K.O. juicy wild cherry, black raspberry and cinnamon. young, tense palate shows bright red berry, white abv: NA Price: $NA It’s bright and polished, with round, smooth tan- pepper, clove, anise and a hint of ground pepper nins that make this already accessible. Martin Scott while bracing tannins and brisk acidity provide Fratelli Alessandria 2011 San Lorenzo di Ver- Wines. —K.O. the framework. Drink 2019–2031. A.I. Selections. 92 duno (Barolo). Enticing scents of wild rose, abv: 14.5% Price: $40 —K.O. violet, perfumed berry and a whiff of aromatic herb abv: NA Price: $NA unfold on this full-bodied red. The firm palate offers Marcarini 2011 Brunate (Barolo). Berry juicy black cherry, crushed raspberry, white pepper, 92 steeped in spirits, baking spice and chopped Broccardo 2011 Barolo. This soulful wine clove and anise framed in assertive but ripe tannins herb aromas lead the nose. The young, bracing pal- 92 opens with earthy, almost funky aromas of and fresh acidity. Better after 2019. Artisan Wines, ate offers raw red berry, white pepper, clove, mint freshly tilled earth, overripe black fruit, leather and Inc. —K.O. and grilled sage accompanied by youthfully asser- game. The round, full-bodied palate doles out fleshy abv: 15% Price: $66 tive tannins and bright acidity. Give it time to soften black cherry, juicy blackberry, tobacco, truffle, anise and open up. Drink 2019–2026. Empson USA Ltd. and clove alongside velvety tannins. It’s already ap- Giacomo Grimaldi 2011 Le Coste (Barolo). —K.O. proachable but will drink well for the next decade. 92 Aromas of wild berry, graphite, dark cook- abv: NA Price: $74 ing spice and grilled herb lead the nose. The concen-

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BUYINGGUIDE

Michele Chiarlo 2011 Cannubi (Barolo). Aro- Sordo 2011 Perno (Barolo). Classico Neb- aromas of leafy underbrush, leather, licorice and a 92 mas of dark berry, baked earth, game and 92 biolo aromas of wild red berry, tilled soil, hint of menthol. The firm, chewy palate offers ripe forest floor come together in the glass. The palate aromatic herb and forest floor spill out of the glass. wild cherry, raspberry jam, anisette and tobacco. offers ripe black cherry, crushed strawberry, mint, The generous palate offers red cherry marinated Brooding tannins support the dark flavors. Drink clove and white pepper alongside compacted tan- in spirits, white pepper, clove and anise alongside 2019–2029. Siena Imports. —K.O. nins and fresh acidity. Give this another five or six solid tannins. Savory and structured, it’s already abv: 15% Price: $59 years to unwind. Kobrand. —K.O. almost accessible but will still provide fine drink- abv: NA Price: $101 ing over the next decade. Drink 2017–2026. Tri-Vin Cascina del Monastero 2011 Bricco Luciani Imports. —K.O. 91 (Barolo). Enticing aromas of woodland berry, Morra Diego 2011 Monvigliero (Barolo). abv: 14.5% Price: $65 crushed rose, mint and menthol lead the nose on 92 Scorched earth, rose, iris, dark berry and thisfull-bodied red. Mint carries over to the palate clove aromas lead the nose along with a whiff of Barale Fratelli 2011 Castellero (Barolo). Clas- along with wild cherry, red raspberry, kitchen spice game. On the firm, savory palate, mint, white pep- 91 sic Nebbiolo aromas of rose petal, aromatic and a hint of toast. Assertive tannins and bright per, cinnamon and grilled herb accent the wild herb, woodland berry, anise and a balsamic note acidity hold it all together. Metropolis Wine Mer- cherry core. Assertive, velvety tannins and fresh lead the way on this bracing wine. The taut, lean chants, Inc. —K.O. acidity lend elegance and structure. Drink 2018– palate offers wild cherry, white pepper, clove and abv: 14.5% Price: $85 2028. —K.O. anise alongside assertive tannins and nervous acid- abv: NA Price: $NA ity. Drink 2019–2031. Chambers Street Wines. Ciabot Berton 2011 del Comune di La Morra —K.O. 91 (Barolo). Ripe blackberry, mature plum, rose Paolo Manzone 2011 del Comune di Ser- abv: NA Price: $NA and grilled herb aromas lead the nose. The savory, 92 ralunga d’Alba (Barolo). Red berry, pressed approachable palate offers dark cherry, crushed rose and balsamic aromas lead the nose. The struc- Barale Fratelli 2009 Bussia Riserva (Barolo). raspberry, aromatic herb, ground anise and a hint of tured palate offers juicy black cherry, grilled herb, 91 Dark berry, violet, anise and cake spice aro- mocha. Firm but polished tannins and fresh acidity licorice, clove and a hint of mocha accompanied by mas lead the way. The ripe palate doles out fleshy give it balance. This will make fine drinking over the firm, velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Quintessen- black cherry, ground pepper, licorice and grilled next few years. Drink through 2016–2021. Specialty tial Wines. —K.O. sage while an espresso note closes the finish. Firm, Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $60 polished tannins provide the framework. Drink abv: 14.5% Price: $28 2019–2029. Chambers Street Wines. —K.O. Paolo Scavino 2011 Bricco Ambrogio (Baro- abv: NA Price: $NA Cordero di Montezemolo 2011 Bricco Gattera 92 lo). Enticing aromas of pressed rose, iris, 91 (Barolo). Aromas of French oak, coconut, va- fragrant berry and wild herb come together on this Bel Colle 2011 Boscato (Barolo). Underbrush, nilla and spiced plum lead the nose on this power- lovely wine. On the firm, savory palate, clove and 91 smoke, mocha and dark fruit aromas lead the fully structured wine. The oak sensations carry over anise accent a core of ripe black cherry and rasp- nose and carry over to the ripe palate along with to the warm palate along with cherry marinated in berry. It’s young but well balanced, with elegant dried black cherry, licorice and clove. Firm, velvety spirits, licorice and menthol. Bracing, close-grained tannins and bright acidity. Drink 2017–2027. Mar- tannins provide the framework. Drink 2018–2028. tannins provide the framework and need time to tin Scott Wines. —K.O. Premium Brands. —K.O. unwind. Best after 2020. Omniwines Distribution. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: NA Price: $75 —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $80 Paolo Scavino 2011 Carobric (Barolo). Struc- Bel Colle 2011 Monvigliero (Barolo). Truffle, 92 tured and balanced, this opens with aro- 91 underbrush, dark berry, mocha and grilled Fletcher 2011 Alta Pete (Barolo). Red berry, mas of dark berry, violet, menthol and spice. The sage aromas unfold in the glass. The firm palate de- 91 rose, blue flower, tilled soil and Alpine herb focused palate doles out juicy black cherry, ripe livers smoke, raw berry, baking spice, anise and a aromas set the pace on this luminous red. The firm strawberry, ground pepper, anise and chopped herb sprinkling of aromatic herb while bracing tannins palate is still young and closed but already shows against a backdrop of closely-knit, refined tannins. provide the backbone. Premium Brands. —K.O. ripe red berry, wild cherry, mocha anise, clove and Drink 2018–2028. Martin Scott Wines. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA a hint of toast. Youthfully assertive but refined tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $80 nins and fresh acidity lend structure and balance. Borgogno 2011 Liste (Barolo). Aromas of dark Drink 2019–2029. Vine Street Imports. —K.O. Silvio Grasso 2011 Turnè (Barolo). Perfumed 91 berry, baking spice, Alpine herb, graphite, iris abv: 14.5% Price: $53 92 and elegantly structured, this impressive and a whiff of game take center stage. The warm, en- wine is the estate’s traditionally crafted Barolo. It veloping palate delivers fleshy black cherry, crushed Fratelli Alessandria 2011 Monvigliero (Baro- offers scents of fragrant berry, rose, iris and tilled raspberry, clove, white pepper and anisette along- 91 lo). Scents of woodland berry, rose petal, soil while the focused palate offers juicy wild cher- side velvety tannins and nervous acidity. Drink grilled herb, anisette and a balsamic note emerge on ry, raspberry, chopped mint, licorice and baking 2016–2026. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O. this firmly structured wine. On the robust palate, spice. A backbone of firm, refined tannins provides abv: NA Price: $125 white pepper, licorice, sage and a hint of toast weave the framework. Drink 2019–2031. —K.O. through the black cherry core. You’ll also detect the abv: NA Price: $NA Brezza 2011 Cannubi (Barolo). Aromas of dark warmth of alcohol on the close. Drink 2018–2028. 91 berry, baking spice, fragrant blue flower and a Artisan Wines, Inc. —K.O. Sobrero 2009 Pernanno Riserva (Barolo). balsamic note emerge on this firm wine. The struc- abv: 15% Price: $75 92 Wild berry, dried rose, scorched earth, to- tured palate offers dried sour cherry, clove, licorice bacco and a hint of game are some of the aromas and chopped sage alongside assertive tannins. A.I. Grimaldi Bruna 2011 Camilla (Barolo). This that emerge on this full-bodied red. The gripping Selections. —K.O. 91 robust wine opens with aromas of red berry, palate offers cherry marinated in spirits, vanilla, abv: NA Price: $75 tilled earth, dark baking spice and a balsamic note. mocha, licorice and dried herb framed in firm, vel- The ripe, hearty palate delivers syrupy black cherry, vety tannins. Chigazola Merchants. —K.O. Cascina Cucco 2011 del Comune di Serralunga juicy raspberry, clove and anisette alongside firm abv: NA Price: $87 91 d’Alba (Barolo). This hearty red opens with tannins. Despite the tannic structure, the dense

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 fruit and warmth of alcohol make it already almost The tense, full-bodied palate delivers dried black accent the red berry core. Firm, fine-grained tan- accessible. Drink 2017–2026. Massanois Imports. cherry, licorice, leather and tobacco supported by nins offer structure. Batasiolo USA. —K.O. —K.O. bracing, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2019–2029. abv: 14.5% Price: $46 abv: NA Price: $43 Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $115 Borgogno F.lli Serio e Battista 2011 Cannubi Icardi 2011 Parej (Barolo). Enticing aromas of 90 (Barolo). Showing the heat of the vintage, 91 crushed rose, red berry, wild mint, menthol Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2011 Terlo Vigna Costa this offers earthy sensations of leather, scorched and a hint of oak come together. The linear, focused 91 Grimaldi (Barolo). Taut and tense, this opens soil, truffle, stewed prune and ripe cherry. Bracing palate offers raw red cherry, strawberry, white pep- with aromas of red berry, crushed herb, clove and tannins provide the backdrop. Skurnik Wines, Inc. per, licorice and chopped sage accompanied by whiff of menthol. The firm, tightly wound palate —K.O. tightly knit, close-grained tannins and bright acid- offers bright cherry, licorice and ground black pep- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 ity. Drink 2019–2026. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. per alongside assertive tannins and nervous acidity. abv: 14% Price: $85 Give this time to unwind and fully develop. Drink Borgogno Giacomo e Figli 2011 Cannubi 2019–2031. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. 90 (Barolo). Red rose, bright berry and anis- Le Strette 2011 Bergera Pezzole (Barolo). abv: NA Price: $97 ette aromas lead the way. The taut palate offers sour 91 Aromas of slightly stewed fruit, steeped cherry, tobacco, clove and chopped herb alongside berry, spice and menthol unfold in the glass. The Rocche Costamagna 2009 Bricco Francesco bracing tannins and brisk acidity. Domaine Select firm palate delivers juicy cherry, crushed raspberry, 91 Riserva (Barolo). Toast, baking spice, fruit- Wine Estates. —K.O. licorice, ground pepper and a mint note while brac- cake and anise are some of the aromas that emerge abv: 14.5% Price: $110 ing tannins and racy acidity provide the backbone. on this structured red. On the forward palate, notes This needs a few more years to calm down and will of black pepper, licorice and a hint of tobacco accent Brandini 2011 Brandini (Barolo). Aromas of continue to age well for a decade or more. Drink a core of dried black. Firm, velvety tannins provide 90 perfumed berry, mint baking spice, toast 2018–2026. WS Selections. —K.O. support. Drink 2018–2026. Siema LLC. —K.O. and espresso waft out of the glass. The palate is abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA tight and rather primary at the moment, showing raw black cherry, raspberry, clove and toasted notes. Luigi Oddero & Figli 2009 Vigna Rionda (Baro- Silvano Bolmida 2009 Bussia Riserva (Baro- It’s still young but balanced, with fresh acidity and 91 lo). Aromas of underbrush, scorched earth, 91 lo). This offers aromas of red rose, wild berry, firm, fine–grained tannins. Drink 2016–2022. Dark mature dark berry, menthol and dark baking spice dark cooking spice and a whiff of sun baked earth. Star Cellars. —K.O. lead the nose. The full-bodied palate delivers dried The ripe palate offers black cherry marinated in abv: NA Price: $NA black cherry, licorice, chewing tobacco and clove spirits, licorice, game and a hint of chocolate along- while ripe, bracing tannins provide structure. Drink side velvety tannins. The warmth of alcohol closes Brovia 2011 Barolo. Perfumed berry, iris and 2019–2029. Ionia Atlantic Imports, LLC. —K.O. the finish. Drink 2018–2029. Artisan Wines, Inc. 90 baking spice aromas float out of the glass. abv: 14% Price: $132 —K.O. The firm palate offers mature wild cherry, ripe rasp- abv: NA Price: $NA berry, licorice, menthol and chopped herb while as- Marchesi di Barolo 2011 Coste di Rose (Barolo). sertive but refined tannins provide support. Rosen- 91 Pretty aromas of blue flower, rose, wild berry Vite Colte 2011 Paesi Tuoi (Barolo). For full thal Wine Merchants. —K.O. and graphite lead the way. The firm palate delivers 91 review see page 11. abv: 14.5% Price: $57 mature black cherry, raspberry, star anise, black abv: 13.5% Price: $60 pepper and chopped sage alongside bright acidity Ca’ Viola 2011 Sottocastello di Novello and tightly knit tannins that need to unwind. Drink Vite Colte 2004 Essenze Riserva (Barolo). For 90 (Barolo). Classic Nebbiolo aromas of red 2018–2026. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. 91 full review see page 11. berry, underbrush, tilled soil, aromatic herb and abv: 14.5% Price: $90 abv: NA Price: $90 spice lead the nose. The bracing palate offers dried black cherry, anisette, mocha, toast and grilled herb Mario Marengo 2011 Bricco delle Viole (Baro- Agostino Bosco 2011 Neirane (Barolo). En- alongside extremely assertive tannins and brisk 91 lo). Rose, iris, dark berry and baking spice 90 ticing aromas of red rose, wild red berry acidity. Drink 2019–2031. Vias Imports. —K.O. aromas emerge on this taut wine. The dense pal- and aromatic herb lead the way. The palate offers abv: NA Price: $75 ate doles out mature black cherry, resin, cinnamon, dried berry, grilled herb, mocha and toast alongside vanilla and a hint of toast balanced by fine-grained assertive tannins and nervous acidity. Give this Cantina del Nebbiolo 2011 Barolo. Aromas tannins and bright acidity. de Grazia Imports LLC. a few years for the tannins to unfold. Drink after 90 of red berry, sage, cinnamon and a whis- —K.O. 2020. Tanaro River Imports LLC. —K.O. per of menthol lead the nose and carry over to the abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $53 solid palate together with juicy sour cherry, black raspberry, licorice and tobacco. It’s a classic Barolo, Oddero 2011 Brunate (Barolo). Aromas of per- Alessandro Rivetto 2011 del Comune di Ser- straightforward and delicious, with ripe, integrated 91 fumed berry, mint, baking spice and a whiff 90 ralunga d’Alba (Barolo). This nose is rather tannins and fresh acidity. Monsieur Touton Selec- of oak emerge on this structured wine. The firm pal- closed but the firm palate offers ripe sour cherry, tion Ltd. —K.O. ate offers wild red cherry, crushed raspberry, mint, dark cooking spice, pipe tobacco and chopped herb. abv: NA Price: $30 grilled sage and a touch of oak-driven spice along- Fresh acidity and youthfully austere but refined side bracing tannins and nervous acidity. Give it tannins provide the backbone. Drink after 2019. Cantina del Nebbiolo 2011 Cannubi Boschis time to soften and fully develop. Drink 2019–2031. Nicola Biscardo Selections. —K.O. 90 (Barolo). Leafy underbrush, truffle, wood- Soilair Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 land berry and toast aromas lead the nose. The abv: NA Price: $115 chewy, solid palate offers ripe black cherry, crushed Beni di Batasiolo 2011 Barolo. Red rose, wild raspberry, grilled sage and ground aniseed alongside Pio Cesare 2011 Ornato (Barolo). Aromas of 90 berry, toast, tobacco and a whiff of under- bracing tannins and assertive acidity. Drink 2018– 91 underbrush, scorched earth and dark baking brush meld in the glass. On the firm palate, notes of 2028. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. spice lead the way on this firmly structured wine. clove, ground pepper, cinnamon, anise and mocha abv: 14.5% Price: $70

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Cantina del Nebbiolo 2011 del Comune di hint of tobacco alongside youthfully assertive, solid anise add some depth to the sour cherry core. As- 90 Serralunga d’Alba (Barolo). Mature black tannins. Drink after 2018. Opici Wines. —K.O. sertive tannins and nervous acidity offer focused fruit, toast and spice aromas lead the nose. The firm abv: NA Price: $NA support while a hint of juicy raspberry backs up the palate is still tightly wound, offering baked black finish. Drink 2018–2026. WS Selections. —K.O. cherry, licorice and espresso balanced by youthfully Elio Grasso 2008 Runcot Riserva (Barolo). abv: NA Price: $NA assertive, taut tannins. Drink after 2019. Monsieur 90 Aromas of mature berry, espresso, exotic Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. spice and a whiff of menthol emerge on this full- Luigi Oddero & Figli 2009 Rocche Rivera abv: NA Price: $NA bodied red. The palate shows dried black cherry, 90 (Barolo). Aromas of pressed rose, dried coconut, licorice and roasted coffee bean alongside berry, leather, chopped herb, cinnamon and a bal- Cascina Ballarin 2011 Bricco Rocca (Barolo). fine-grained tannins. This isn’t a classic Nebbiolo samic note emerge in the glass. The subtle palate 90 This opens with aromas of woodland berry, but it’s polished, balanced and will appeal to those delivers dried black cherry, black raspberry, licorice crushed herb and a whiff of well-integrated oak. The who enjoy oak-driven sensations. Martin Scott and a hint of tobacco alongside firm, ripe tannins. firm palate delivers dried Morello cherry, baking Wines. —K.O. Enjoy sooner rather than later to capture the re- spice and mocha alongside firm, fine-grained tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $160 maining fruit richness. Ionia Atlantic Imports, LLC. nin. It closes on a note of star anise. Drink 2016– —K.O. 2021 to capture the fruit richness. Vitis Imports. Franco M. Martinetti 2009 Marasco (Baro- abv: 14% Price: $102 —K.O. 90 lo). Dark and brooding, this opens with abv: NA Price: $42 aromas of French oak, espresso, clove and mature Luigi Pira 2011 Marenca (Barolo). The nose blackberry. On the extracted palate, licorice, vanilla 90 is initially rather closed but eventually Cascina Bruciata 2011 Cannubi and sweet baking spice accent a core of baked plum reveals baked earth, leather, game and ripe black 90 (Barolo). This opens with aromas of ripe while bracing, fine-grained tannins provide the fruit. The taut, tense palate offers dried black cher- berry, aromatic herb, pressed rose petal and a bal- framework. Soilair Selection. —K.O. ry, toasted oak, mocha and vanilla alongside grainy samic note. The rather lean palate offers sour cher- abv: 14.5% Price: $88 tannins. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. ry, crushed strawberry, sage and star anise along- abv: NA Price: $NA side nervous acidity and tightly wound, astringent Giacomo Grimaldi 2011 Sotto Castello di tannins that leave a rather raspy finish. Give this a 90 Novello (Barolo). Woodland berry, pressed Luigi Pira 2011 Margheria (Barolo). Earthy few more years to unclench. Drink after 2019. Soil- violet, dark cooking spice, truffle and new leather 90 aromas of leather, game, sunbaked earth air Selection. —K.O. aromas unfold on this brawny wine. The full-bodied and mature dark-skinned berry take center stage. abv: 15% Price: $80 palate doles out ripe black cherry, ground pepper, The tense palate offers dried black cherry, mocha, licorice and tobacco accompanied by velvety tan- espresso licorice and tobacco alongside fresh acidity Cascina Luisin 2011 Leon (Barolo). Dark ber- nins. It closes on notes of menthol and the warmth and close-grained tannins. de Grazia Imports LLC. 90 ry, mocha, toast and cooking spice aromas of alcohol. Drink 2018–2028. Banville Wine Mer- —K.O. emerge in the glass. The taut palate offers mature chants. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 black cherry, coffee and dried herb alongside as- abv: 15% Price: $60 sertive, fine-grained tannins. Acid Inc Selections. Manzone 2011 Fraschin (Barolo). Aromas of —K.O. Gianpiero Marrone 2011 Pichemej (Barolo). 90 baked plum are joined by earthy whiffs of abv: 14.5% Price: $42 90 Raspberry, rose petal, baking spice, tilled truffle, leather, game and cured meat. The aromas soil and new leather aromas unfold on this struc- carry over to the ripe, dense palate along with fleshy Ceretto 2011 Prapò (Barolo). Aromas of ma- tured red. The chewy, full-bodied palate doles out black cherry, anise, mocha and mint. Velvety tan- 90 ture berry, menthol, coffee bean, toast and juicy wild cherry, menthol and dark cooking spice nins provide the framework while a confectionary dark cooking spice emerge on this bracing wine. The while assertive tannins and fresh acidity lend bal- note backs up the finish. Drink 2017–2022. Mara- firmly structured palate delivers dried black cherry, ance. Drink 2019–2029. Terravino. —K.O. thon Selections. —K.O. espresso, French oak, licorice, chopped herb and to- abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $45 bacco set against bracing, close-grained tannins and the warmth of alcohol. The tannins will need years Le Cecche 2011 Sorano (Barolo). This opens Marchesi di Barolo 2008 Riserva (Barolo). to unwind. Winebow. —K.O. 90 with aromas of mature dark fruit, toast and 90 Ripe berry, menthol, truffle, leather, cured abv: 15% Price: $110 a slight whiff of cellar floor. The palate is still tight meat and tobacco aromas come together in the and rather closed, but offers fleshy black cherry, glass. The palate offers mature black cherry, lico- Chiara Boschis – E. Pira e Figli 2011 Via Nuova toasted oak, clove and mocha alongside polished rice, clove and black pepper alongside fine-grained 90 (Barolo). Aromas of toasted oak, mocha and tannins. It’s fast approaching its ideal drinking win- tannins. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. a whiff of coconut oak lead the nose while the firm dow so enjoy sooner rather than later. PGM Wines. abv: 14% Price: $105 palate offers dark cherry, espresso, dried sage and a —K.O. hint of anise. The tightly wound tannins still pack abv: NA Price: $NA Marziano Abbona 2011 Pressenda (Barolo). youthful sharpness and need a few more years to 90 Alluring aromas of violet, rose, dark berry soften up. Drink after 2021. Indigenous Selections. Le Strette 2011 Bergeisa (Barolo). This of- and a hint of cured meat emerge on this firmly —K.O. 90 fers aromas of violet, rose, Marasca cherry structured wine. The palate is rather extracted, abv: 14% Price: $90 and a whiff of cake spice that carry over to the warm offering rich black cherry, chocolate, tobacco and palate along with a whiff of toast. Tightly packed sweet spice alongside grippy tannins. Frederick 2011 Olo (Barolo). This opens tannins give it a firm finish. WS Selections. —K.O. Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. 90 with earthy aromas of scorched earth, ripe abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $74 berry, leather and a funky whiff of game. The full- bodied palate offers mature black cherry, black Le Strette 2011 Pallaretta (Barolo). Engag- Mauro Sebaste 2011 Treasurì (Barolo). raspberry, truffle, grilled sage, ground pepper and a 90 ing aromas of fresh rose, iris, perfumed ber- 90 Pressed rose petal, red berry, chopped herb ry and hint of menthol meld together in the glass. and a whiff of exotic spice come together on this el- On the taut palate, notes of white pepper, clove and egantly structured red. The medium-bodied palate

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 offers juicy wild cherry, crushed raspberry, ground vous acidity provide the framework. Empson USA tannins and brisk acidity provide the framework. pepper and anise alongside firm, polished tannins. Ltd. —K.O. Drink after 2020. Riondo USA. —K.O. Drink 2017–2023. Total Wine & More. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $103 abv: 14.5% Price: $75 abv: 14% Price: $35 Reverdito 2011 Ascheri (Barolo). Mature 460 Casina Bric 2011 Bricco delle Viole Mauro Veglio 2011 Arborina (Barolo). The 90 dark berry, crushed blue flower, spice and 89 (Barolo). This offers a classic Nebbiolo nose 90 nose is initially rather closed but eventu- peppermint aromas lead the nose on this structured of rose petal, dark berry, tilled earth and a balsamic ally reveals dark berry, blue flower and brown bak- red. The firm palate offers ripe black cherry, white note. The lean palate shows sour red berry, grilled ing spice. The ripe palate offers mature black cherry, pepper, cocoa, star anise and a balsamic note ac- herb, clove and a hint of mocha on the finish. Tight- coffee, cocoa, star anise and chopped sage alongside companied by bracing tannins. Drink 2018–2016. ly compacted tannins and brisk acidity need time to tightly packed tannins. Give this another two or Weygandt-Metzler. —K.O. unwind. Drink after 2019. Best Value Wine Group. three years to let the tannins unfurl, then enjoy. T. abv: 14.5% Price: $68 —K.O. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $65 abv: 15% Price: $55 Tenuta Duecorti 2011 Castelletto (Barolo). 90 Blue flower, mature plum, licorice, clove, Battaglio 2010 Barolo. Menthol, mature Mauro Veglio 2011 Gattera (Barolo). Fra- mocha and menthol aromas all come together on 89 black currant, eucalyptus, espresso and 90 grant and bright, this offers aromas of rose, this brawny red. The warm, bold palate delivers clove aromas lead the nose. On the austere palate, iris, perfumed berry and a balsamic note. The palate juicy black cherry, espresso, ground pepper and ground pepper and licorice accent mature black is still rather closed, offering raw red cherry, star anisette alongside a backbone of fine-grained tan- cherry while assertive, close-grained tannins leave anise and chopped sage alongside tightly knit tan- nins. Showing the heat of the vintage, it won’t need a firm finish. Drink after 2020. Vino Direct. —K.O. nins and brisk acidity. It still needs time to come years to come around. Drink 2018–2028. Wine 4 abv: 14% Price: $60 together. Drink 2018–2024. T. Edward Wines Ltd. All. —K.O. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $70 Beni di Batasiolo 2011 Boscareto (Barolo). abv: 15% Price: $55 89 Earthy and full-bodied, this offers aromas Viberti 2011 Buon Padre (Barolo). Scorched of truffle, scorched earth, leather, game and mature Montaribaldi 2011 Borzoni (Barolo). Rose, 90 earth, game, forest floor and woodland black-skinned fruit. The warm palate offers black 90 red berry, baked earth, forest floor and berry aromas come together in the glass. The solid cherry marinated in spirits, star anise and clove grilled herb aromas lead the nose while the firm pal- palate offers raw red berry, licorice, coffee and clove alongside brooding tannins. It shows the heat of the ate offers dried black cherry, cake spice and anise. alongside assertive tannins and brisk acidity. Drink vintage so drink sooner rather than later. Batasiolo Firm, fine-grained tannins provide the backbone. after 2019. Opici Wines. —K.O. USA. —K.O. Drink 2018–2026. Langdon Shiverick. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $55 abv: 15% Price: $79 abv: NA Price: $50 Vietti 2011 Castiglione (Barolo). Aromas of Beni di Batasiolo 2011 Brunate (Barolo). Oddero 2011 Barolo. Rose, red berry, mint 90 wild berry, dark spice, menthol and a hint 89 Warm and robust, this full-bodied Barolo 90 and anise aromas unfold in the glass. The of pressed flower lead the way on this straight- offers aromas of underbrush, scorched earth, tar firm palate offers wild cherry, crushed raspberry, forward Barolo. The full-bodied palate offers dark and kirsch. The palate is bold and hearty but also clove, anisette and a mocha note framed in bracing cherry, licorice and dried herb alongside firm, ripe shows the heat of the vintage, doling out cherry- tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2020–2031. Soilair tannins. Drink 2018–2026. Dalla Terra Winery Di- marinated-in-spirits, licorice and clove alongside Selection. —K.O. rect. —K.O. almost scorching alcohol. Drink sooner rather than abv: NA Price: $29 abv: 14.5% Price: $52 later. Batasiolo USA. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $79 Pietro Rinaldi 2011 Monvigliero (Barolo). Villadoria 2011 Barolo. Red berry, dried rose, 90 Aromas of dark berry, tilled soil, under- 90 truffle and a hint of scorched earth aromas Borgogno 2011 Fossati (Barolo). This offers brush and espresso lead the nose while the taut come together on this solid, no-frills Barolo. The 89 aromas of pressed rose, cherry marinated palate offers sour cherry, sage, white pepper and straightforward palate delivers wild cherry, ripe in spirits, aromatic herb and menthol. The brac- star anise. It’s still tightly wound and nervous, with strawberry and a hint of cake spice alongside firm, ing palate shows raw red cherry, clove, white pep- bracing tannins. Drink 2019–2029. Votto Vines Im- ripe tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2016–2021. per and a hint of mocha while assertive tannins and porting. —K.O. WinesU. —K.O. racy acidity provide the framework. It’s still young abv: NA Price: $70 abv: 14.5% Price: $42 and aggressively tannic so don’t attempt before 2019. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O. Pio Cesare 2011 Barolo. Aromas of oak ex- Virna Borgogno 2011 Cannubi Boschis (Baro- abv: NA Price: $115 90 tract, toast, red berry and espresso wrap 90 lo). Stewed prune marinated in spirits, co- around this structured wine. The firm palate offers conut, espresso and grilled herb aromas unfold in Borgogno 2009 Riserva (Barolo). Funky but up sour cherry, ground pepper and licorice along- the glass. The firm palate offers dark cherry, coffee, 89 not unpleasant aromas of game, scorched side assertive, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2018– anise and tobacco alongside bracing tannins bright earth and cured meat are joined by whiffs of wild 2028. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —K.O. acidity. Best after 2019. Riondo USA. —K.O. berry and leather. The palate shows dried cherry, abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $75 aniseed, and grilled sage alongside firm, fine- grained tannins. Drink sooner rather than later to Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2011 Cannubi (Baro- Virna Borgogno 2011 Sarmassa (Barolo). enjoy the remaining fruit. Domaine Select Wine Es- 90 lo). This offers aromas of toast, espresso, 90 Aromas of toast, grilled herb and red berry tates. —K.O. scorched earth, red berry, clove and a whiff of leath- lead the nose along with a whiff of fresh mint. The abv: NA Price: $119 er. The lean, tense palate offers dried cherry, grilled palate is still primary; offering bright Morello cher- herb, anise, coffee and tobacco but not much fruit ry, white pepper, anise, clove and hint of tobacco Borgogno F.lli Serio e Battista 2009 Cannubi richness. Tightly wound, bracing tannins and ner- while a dried sage note closes the finish. Bracing 89 Riserva (Barolo). Aromas of mature berry, aromatic herb and fragrant iris lead the nose while

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the ripe palate offers mature black cherry, licorice wild cherry, clove, cinnamon and powdered sage tannins and nervous acidity. Drink 2018–2028. and pipe tobacco. Firm, velvety tannins provide the alongside astringent tannins. Drink after 2018. Vot- Strecker Selections. —K.O. framework. Showing the heat of the vintage, the to Vines Importing. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $65 fruit is already evolved so drink this sooner rather abv: 14.5% Price: $50 than later. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. Prunotto 2011 Barolo. Aromas of scorched abv: NA Price: $45 Mario Gagliasso 2011 Tre Utin (Barolo). Aro- 89 earth, underbrush, red berry and a whiff of 89 mas of resin, nail polish, overripe plum cellar floor lead the nose. On the firm palate, ground Bric Cenciurio 2008 Coste di Rose Riserva steeped in spirits, oak and a confectionary note pepper, tobacco and sage accent sour cherry while 89 (Barolo). Aromas of baked plum, mocha, lead the way. The warm palate displays ripe black brooding tannins offer firm support. Ste. Michelle toast and sweet pipe tobacco drive the nose while cherry, cocoa, anise and a whisper of licorice framed Wine Estates. —K.O. the palate offers palate offers dried black cherry in velvety tannins. Drink through 2026. Kysela Père abv: 13.5% Price: $45 marinated in spirits, vanilla, nutmeg and leather. et Fils. —K.O. A note of dried sage closes the finish while austere abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Raineri Gianmatteo 2011 Monserra (Barolo). tannins provide bracing support. Drink 2019–2029. 89 You’ll find aromas of mature black cherry, Quigley Fine Wines. —K.O. Mauro Sebaste 2011 Prapò (Barolo). This dark cooking spice, mint, leather and a whiff of abv: 14.5% Price: $88 89 firm red offers aromas of underbrush, espresso on this full-bodied red. The firm palate French oak, exotic spice, dried rose and a balsamic shows dried black cherry, roasted coffee bean, oak Casetta 2011 Vigna Case Nere (Barolo). This whiff of menthol. On the full-bodied palate, a brac- and a licorice note supported by bracing, grainy 89 solid Barolo opens with aromas of mature ing tannic backbone supports dried black cherry, tannins that leave an astringent finish. Drink after dark berry, licorice, clove, chewing tobacco and a coconut, licorice, roasted coffee bean and oak-driv- 2020. Ionia Atlantic Imports, LLC. —K.O. whiff of crushed flower. The palate reveals red cher- en spice. Drink 2019–2026. Total Wine & More. abv: 14.5% Price: $42 ry, strawberry, white pepper and thyme alongside —K.O. bracing tannins. Drink after 2019. D&G Distribu- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Rattalino 2011 Barolo. Dark berry, baking tors. —K.O. 89 spice, herb, tobacco and a menthol note abv: NA Price: $NA Negretti 2011 Bricco Ambrogio (Barolo). This lead the nose along with a whiff of oak. The linear 89 opens with attractive aromas of pressed palate is still all wound up, showing more dark spice Dosio 2011 Fossati (Barolo). Aromas of wild rose, woodland berry, dried herb and a whiff of bak- than fruit richness. Racy acidity and astringent tan- 89 berry, menthol, baking spice and a balsamic ing spice. The robust palate shows sour, almost un- nins provide a firm backbone. Aviva Vino. —K.O. note lead the nose. On the tightly wound palate, ripe cherry, clove, mocha and anisette. The warmth abv: NA Price: $55 bracing tannins support raw cherry, anise, tobacco of evident alcohol closes the finish. Vera Fine Wine. and a hint of coffee alongside firm acidity. Atlas Im- —K.O. Reverdito 2011 Castagni (Barolo). Aromas ports. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $60 89 of red berry marinated in spirits, sun baked abv: 14.5% Price: $50 earth, game and a hint of cured meat come together Olivero 2011 Bricco Rocca (Barolo). Dark ber- on this. The tightly wound palate offers raw red Dosio 2009 Fossati Riserva (Barolo). Dried 89 ry, tilled earth and gamey aromas lift out of berry, grilled sage, mint, clove and anise alongside 89 rose, mature berry and dark cooking spice the glass. The firm palate offers black cherry, choco- bracing tannins. Give it a few more years for the aromas lead the nose while the palate offers raisin, late, peppermint and oak alongside tightly packed tannins to unwind, then drink sooner rather later. black tea, dried cherry, mocha and a hint of orange tannins that leave an astringent finish. Drink after Weygandt-Metzler. —K.O. zest. Assertive, fine-grained tannins carry through 2018. Classic Wines, Inc. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA to the firm finish. Drink sooner rather than later to abv: 15% Price: $50 capture remaining fruit. Atlas Imports. —K.O. San Biagio 2011 Bricco San Biagio (Barolo). abv: 14% Price: $100 Paolo Manzone 2011 Meriame (Barolo). For- 89 Aromas of woodland berry, toast, clove and 89 ward and full-bodied, this opens with aro- chopped herb emerge in the glass. The palate is still Gemma 2011 Barolo. The nose is still a bit mas of mature dark fruit, grilled herb, toast, spirits rather closed, eventually giving up raw red berry, 89 closed but reveals woodland berry, toast, and a balsamic note. On the warm palate, oak and coconut, espresso, oak and grilled sage alongside culinary spice, chopped herb and a hint of dried licorice provide the backdrop to black cherry mari- tightly wound, astringent tannins. Give this a few earth. The bracing palate offers raw red berry, pow- nated in spirits alongside firm tannins. The heat more years to open up. Drink 2018–2024. Simply dered sage and star anise supported by astringent of alcohol closes the finish. Quintessential Wines. Stated Wines, LLC. —K.O. tannins and brisk acidity. Best after 2019. New Eng- —K.O. abv: NA Price: $60 land Wine and Spirits Inc. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $80 abv: NA Price: $50 San Biagio 2011 Rocchettevino (Barolo). Paolo Scavino 2011 Barolo. Alluring aromas 89 Scents of pressed violet, mature dark- Germano Angelo 2011 Vigna Ruè (Barolo). 89 of rose, iris, menthol and woodland berry skinned fruit and a balsamic note of camphor slow- 89 Aromas that recall stewed prune, cherry waft out of the glass. The straightforward, polished ly take shape. The forward palate offers dried black steeped in spirits, baking spice, toast and a whiff of palate offers ripe cherry, black raspberry, white cherry, licorice and clove alongside brooding, fine- menthol lead the nose and carry through to the firm pepper and star anise alongside fine-grained tan- grained tannins. Drink 2018–2028. Veritas Market- palate along with notes of coffee, grilled sage and nins. Martin Scott Wines. —K.O. ing & Distribution. —K.O. clove. Bracing tannins provide the framework. Give abv: 14.5% Price: $48 abv: 14.5% Price: $46 this a few more years to unwind then drink up. Best after 2020. Tanaro River Imports LLC. —K.O. Pelassa 2011 Barolo. Fresh scents of rose Sordo 2011 Ravera (Barolo). Aromas of abv: NA Price: $79 89 petal, iris, aromatic herb and woodland 89 charred earth, forest floor, truffle, sage and berry float out of the glass. The palate offers raw mature berry lead the nose. The brawny palate of- La Torricella 2011 Barolo. Underbrush, red cherry, anise and dried sage alongside bracing fers dried black cherry, licorice, clove and tobacco 89 grilled porcini, red berry and grilled herb alongside tightly packed tannins. You’ll also notice aromas lead the way. The bracing palate offers dried the heat of evident alcohol. Give the tannins a few

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 more years to unclench then drink to capture the Camparo 2011 Boiolo (Barolo). Aromas of with aromas of stewed fruit, scorched earth and a remaining fruit richness. Tri-Vin Imports. —K.O. 88 toast, oak, espresso and a whiff of rubber whiff of nail varnish that carry over to the extracted abv: 15% Price: $55 lead the nose and carry over to the firm palate, along palate along with fleshy black cherry. A green note with dried black cherry and oak driven spice. It’s of powdered sage closes the finish. Drink 2018– Sylla Sebaste 2011 Bussia (Barolo). still tightly wound, with an astringent finish. Give 2026. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. 89 Scorched soil, leather, overripe berry and it another year or two for the tannins to unclench abv: NA Price: $NA espresso aromas lead the nose. The palate is still then drink sooner rather than later. Brian Cuddy. primary, offering raw sour cherry, grilled herb, to- —K.O. Fratelli Seghesio 2011 La Villa (Barolo). Aro- bacco and licorice alongside tightly packed tannins abv: NA Price: $NA 88 mas of stewed fruit, prune and toast lead and nervous acidity. Drink after 2020. Bravo Wine the nose. The firm palate is still rather closed but Cellar. —K.O. Cascina del Monastero 2011 Perno (Barolo). reveals dried black cherry, fig, black pepper, clove abv: NA Price: $NA 88 This offers aromas of mature dark fruit, and coffee alongside astringent, grainy tannins. de cured meat, cooking spice and tobacco. The extract- Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. Tenuta Rocca 2011 Barolo. Baking spice, ed palate has dried black cherry, tobacco, anise and abv: 15% Price: $50 89 dried flower, dark-skinned berry and a whiff powdered sage alongside grainy tannins. Metropolis of coconut lead the nose on this straightforward Wine Merchants, Inc. —K.O. Giacomo Grimaldi 2011 Barolo. Aromas of Barolo. The firm palate offers dried black cherry, abv: NA Price: $NA 88 baked plum, spirits, baking spice and a whiff toast and vanilla alongside firm, tightly knit tan- of blue flower lead the nose on this robust wine. The nins. Vision Wine & Spirits. —K.O. Ciabot Berton 2010 Roggeri (Barolo). Aro- hearty palate offers dried black cherry, raw cranber- abv: 14.5% Price: $59 88 mas of dried berry, leather and camphor ry, leather and licorice alongside firm tannins and unfold in the glass. The full-bodied palate offers racy acidity. You’ll also detect the warmth of alcohol Tenuta Rocca 2011 Bussia (Barolo). Aromas dried black cherry, fig, menthol, anise and exotic on the finish. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O. 89 of underbrush, scorched earth, eucalyptus, spice alongside bracing tannins that leave a raspy, abv: 14.5% Price: $45 mature berry and dark spice lead the nose. There’s astringent finish. Let the tannins soften and un- not a lot of fruit richness but the spicy palate offers clench, then drink up. Specialty Cellars. —K.O. Gianfranco Alessandria 2011 San Giovanni licorice, black pepper and sage alongside grippy tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 88 (Barolo). Aromas of rose, violet, sour cherry nins that leave a firm, drying finish. Vision Wine & and baking spice make a promising initial impres- Spirits. —K.O. Claudio Alario 2011 Barolo. Aromas that re- sion but the palate is on the lean side offering raw abv: 14.5% Price: $69 88 call underbrush, oak, espresso, truffle and red berry, clove, sage and a hint of tobacco. Grainy mocha unfold on this bracing red. The firm palate tannins leave an astringent finish. Let the tannins Vite Colte 2011 del Comune di Barolo Essenze offers dried dark berry, sawdust, espresso, anise and soften up for another few years and then drink to 89 (Barolo). Forest floor, woodland berry and ground pepper alongside assertive tannins. de Gra- capture the remaining fruit. Saranty Imports. —K.O. spice aromas emerge in the glass. The tight palate zia Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA offers sour cherry, white pepper, grilled herb and abv: NA Price: $NA a whiff of tobacco alongside close-grained tannins Gianni Gagliardo 2011 Serre (Barolo). Aro- and racy acidity. An anisette note closes the finish. Curto Marco 2011 Arborina La Foia (Barolo). 88 mas of oak, toast, espresso and coconut car- Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. 88 This opens with rather funky aromas of ry over to palate along with coffee, a hint of baked abv: 14% Price: $70 scorched earth, overripe black-skinned fruit and a plum and a confectionary note. Drying tannins leave whiff of barnyard. The extracted palate offers ma- an astringent finish. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. Barale Fratelli 2011 Cannubi (Barolo). This ture black cherry, toast, espresso and a gamey note abv: 15% Price: $95 88 opens with aromas of forest floor, grilled alongside tightly packed tannins. A note of roasted porcini, scorched earth and espresso. The lean pal- coffee bean signals the close. August Wine Group. Giribaldi 2011 Barolo. Toast, espresso and ate offers raw red berry, sage and aniseed alongside —K.O. 88 mocha aromas lead the nose while the brac- bracing tannins and nervous acidity. Chambers abv: NA Price: $90 ing palate offers raw red berry, anise, coffee and a Street Wines. —K.O. hint of chocolate. Grainy tannins provide firm sup- abv: NA Price: $NA Ellena 2011 Ascheri (Barolo). Toast, espres- port but leave an astringent finish. Wait another 88 so, coffee bean and dark berry aromas few years for the tannins to soften a bit then drink Boasso 2011 Gabutti (Barolo). This opens emerge on this firmly structured red. It’s still very up. Ribevi Wine Int. —K.O. 88 with aromas of prune, resin, mature dark much on its oak, showing unripe sour cherry backed abv: 14% Price: $43 berry and cake spice. The palate is tight and a bit up by oak-driven spice including vanilla and coco- raw, showing sour cherry, licorice, toast and espres- nut alongside grippy tannins. Vine Street Imports. Luigino Grimaldi 2011 San Biagio (Barolo). so alongside bracing tannins. —K.O. —K.O. 88 Aromas of red berry, grilled herb, oak-driv- abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 15% Price: $60 en spice and a balsamic note lead the nose on this. The palate is still tight and closed but eventually Boroli 2009 Villero Riserva (Barolo). Oak, Fontanafredda 2011 Barolo. This opens with gives up raw cherry, strawberry, sage and espresso 88 toast, espresso and stewed prune carry over 88 somewhat rustic aromas of overripe fruit, alongside assertive, raspy tannins. Let the tannins to the palate together with a note of dark cooking truffle, game and a whiff barnyard. The round,- ac soften a bit and then drink up before the fruit fades. spice. Assertive, close-grained tannins give this an cessible palate is already evolved, showing dried —K.O. astringent finish. Give the tannins a few more years black cherry, mocha, anisette and a confectionary abv: NA Price: $NA to unclench then drink up to enjoy the remaining note alongside smooth tannins. Drink sooner rather fruit. Drink after 2018. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. than later. Palm Bay International. —K.O. Morra Diego 2011 Barolo. Delicate aromas of —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA 88 red rose and wild berry lead the nose while abv: NA Price: $93 the taut palate offers raw sour cherry, anise, cin- Franco Conterno 2011 Panerole (Barolo). 88 Showing the heat of the vintage, this opens

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namon and mocha. Bracing tannins lead to a firm, well as aggressive, astringent tannins that give it an cherry while raspy tannins leave and astringent fin- drying finish. —K.O. abrupt, raspy finish. It’s already drying out so drink ish. Newman Wine. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA now. Specialty Cellars. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Revello Fratelli 2011 Conca (Barolo). Wild Revello Fratelli 2011 Gattera (Barolo). This 88 berry, iris, toast, coffee and vanilla aromas Collina San Ponzio 2011 Barolo. For full re- 85 has aromas of overripe black-skinned fruit, come together in the glass. The dense palate shows 87 view see page 13. scorched earth and a funky whiff of barnyard. The more oak influence, offering roasted coffee bean, abv: 14.5% Price: $40 rustic sensation carries over to the palate along toasted oak, coconut and dried black cherry along- with a bitter note. It lacks fruit richness while side astringent tannins that give it an abrupt finish. Gemma 2011 Colarej (Barolo). This offers grainy tannins leave an abrupt, astringent finish. Revelry Vintners. —K.O. 87 aromas and flavors of toasted oak, espresso, Tried twice and had the same notes. Revelry Vint- abv: 15% Price: $54 coconut, vanilla and a confectionary note but it ners. —K.O. lacks fruit richness. Bracing tannins provide the abv: NA Price: $NA Silvio Grasso 2011 Bricco Manzoni (Barolo). framework. New England Wine and Spirits Inc. 88 This opens with aromas of coffee, coconut —K.O. and black-skinned berry. The tightly wound palate abv: NA Price: $58 isn’t very expressive but eventually reveals dried cherry, toasted oak and espresso alongside bracing Gianni Gagliardo 2011 Barolo. Aromas of oak, Sottimano 2010 Riserva (Barbaresco). tannins. Give it another year or two for the tannins 87 toast, espresso, exotic spice, spirits, dried 96 This dazzling red is still in its infancy but to unwind and then drink sooner rather than later. black cherry and coconut carry over to the warm promises to bloom into a stunning beauty. It opens de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. palate. Showing the heat of the vintage, the fruit is with delicate aromas of red rose, perfumed berry, abv: 14% Price: $70 already drying up while bracing tannins provide the forest floor, exotic spice, aromatic herb and a light framework. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. balsamic note. Energy abounds on the full-bodied, Sordo 2011 Monvigliero (Barolo). Aromas of abv: 14.5% Price: $32 elegant palate, which delivers bright red cherry, 88 black cherries marinated in spirits, men- strawberry, white pepper and licorice alongside a thol, leather and chopped herbs lead the nose on Le Ginestre 2011 Sottocastello di Novello backbone of vibrant acidity and firm, refined tan- this brawny wine. The hefty palate shows the heat 87 (Barolo). Aromas of toast, oak, menthol and nins. Drink 2020–2040. Giuliana Imports. Cellar of the vintage, offering dried berries, licorice, to- mint lead the nose. The palate shows raw red berry Selection. —K.O. bacco and mocha alongside the warmth of evident and dried sage alongside grainy tannins that leave a abv: 14.5% Price: $79 alcohol and jarring tannins. Give it a few years to let mouth-puckering finish. Testa Wines Of The World. the tannins soften up a bit but then drink before the —K.O. Bruno Giacosa 2011 Albesani Vigna Santo fruit dries up. Tri-Vin Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $56 95 Stefano (Barbaresco). Rose petal, perfumed abv: 15% Price: $65 berry, new leather, pressed powder and underbrush 460 Casina Bric 2011 Barolo. Aromas of are just some of the enticing scents you’ll find on Virna Borgogno 2011 del Comune di Barolo 86 chocolate, mocha and raisin lead the nose. this stunning wine. The structured palate is loaded 88 (Barolo). This opens with aromas of toast, The lean palate shows prune steeped in spirits, with finesse, offering crushed cherry, black rasp- oak and a whiff of coffee. The palate is still rather toast and a hint of cocoa alongside brisk acidity and berry and licorice accompanied by polished tannins. closed but eventually reveals raw cherry, anise, raspy, almost gritty tannins that give this a rough This is the firm’s last vintage of Santo Stefano, and clove and ground pepper accompanied by bracing finish. Best Value Wine Group. —K.O. they nailed it. Drink 2017–2026. Folio Fine Wine tannins and racy acidity. A note of dried sage closes abv: NA Price: $45 Partners. —K.O. the finish. Riondo USA. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $200 abv: 14.5% Price: $55 Cavalier Bartolomeo 2011 San Lorenzo 86 (Barolo). Funky aromas of scorched earth, Cantina del Pino 2011 Albesani (Barbaresco). Alessandro Veglio 2011 Gattera (Barolo). This overripe plum, game and a whiff of barnyard lead 94 Bold and full-bodied, this opens with aro- 87 offers aromas of oak, coconut and roasted the nose. The palate has a raw quality, showing mas of mature berry, eucalyptus, baking spice and coffee bean that carry over to the palate along with a unripe red berry, leather, cured meat and a hint of a balsamic note. The powerful palate doles out ripe hint of dried black cherry and a confectionary note. chewing tobacco. Overall, this is rustic and lacks black cherry marinated in spirits, licorice, menthol, It lacks the fruit richness needed to stand up to the fruit richness. Superior Wines. —K.O. mint, clove and pipe tobacco. Closely-knit, polished oak while raspy tannins give it an astringent finish. abv: NA Price: $90 tannins provide support and an almost velvety tex- Free Run Wine Merchants. —K.O. ture. It boasts muscle and finesse. Artisan Wines, abv: NA Price: $NA Sarotto Roberto 2011 Audace (Barolo). Inc. —K.O. 86 Toast, dried sage, menthol and a whiff of abv: 15% Price: $66 Cantina Terre del Barolo 2011 Vinum Vita Est coconut lead the nose. The raw, extracted palate 87 (Barolo). This opens with earthy aromas of offers roasted coffee bean, espresso, anise, coconut Sottimano 2012 Fausoni (Barbaresco). This scorched soil, overripe plum, leather and a funky and hints of dried berry but it lacks fruit richness. 94 beautifully balanced wine boasts and envi- whiff of farmyard. On the palate, notes of game, Burly, astringent tannins give it a bitter, mouth- able combination of structure and finesse. It opens clove and sage join raw red cherry offset by bracing puckering finish. —K.O. with enticing aromas of pressed rose, iris, wild ber- tannins. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA ry, cake spice and a whiff of pressed powder while abv: 14.5% Price: $25 the full-bodied palate delivers ripe black cherry, Stroppiana 2011 Leonardo (Barolo). Initially crushed raspberry, white pepper, star anise and Ciabot Berton 2008 Roggeri Riserva (Baro- 86 closed, this eventually reveals subdued aro- clove. Firm, ultra-fine tannins provide the frame- 87 lo). Bracing and tightly wound, this opens mas of scorched earth, leather, overripe berry, a hint work. Drink 2020–2032. Giuliana Imports. Cellar with subdued aromas of pressed rose, resin and a of sage and a whiff of cured meat. The bracing pal- Selection. —K.O. whiff of exotic spice. The evolved palate isn’t in sync ate offers raisin, licorice and a note of dried black abv: 14.5% Price: $58 with the nose, offering raisin and a touch of anise as

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Sottimano 2012 Pajorè (Barbaresco). A clas- and pressed flower aromas come together on this of tilled soil, underbrush, violet, leather and a whiff 94 sic Nebbiolo fragrance of red rose, perfumed bright red. The taut palate delivers ripe red cherry, of menthol. The firm palate offers mature black berry, baking spice and a whiff of earth emerges on crushed raspberry, star anise and white pepper set cherry, licorice and a hint of cinnamon alongside this stunning wine. Firm, polished tannins weave against firm, polished tannins. Wilson Daniels Ltd. firm, fine-grained tannins. Angelini Wine. —K.O. through the elegantly structured palate, effortlessly —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA supporting juicy wild cherry, crushed raspberry, abv: 14% Price: $53 white pepper and star anise while bright acidity Carlo Giacosa 2010 Luca Riserva (Barbares- keeps it fresh. It’s still young and needs to unwind Nada Fiorenzo 2011 Manzola (Barbaresco). 89 co). Rose, violet, wild berry and menthol before it can fully develop. Drink 2019–2032. Giuli- 91 Crushed violet, woodland berry, eucalyptus aromas unfold in the glass. The bracing palate offers ana Imports. —K.O. and cake spice aromas meld in the glass. The struc- dried black cherry, licorice and clove alongside as- abv: 14.5% Price: $58 tured palate doles out dried black cherry, licorice, sertive, close-grained tannins that leave a mouth- espresso and white pepper alongside tight, fine- puckering finish. Drink after 2020. Angelini Wine. Sottimano 2011 Currà (Barbaresco). Lu- grained tannins. It closes on a note of chopped sage. —K.O. 94 minous and linear, this structured wine is Drink 2017–2022. Premium Brands. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA delicately perfumed with notes of violet, rose, fra- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 grant berry and a whisper of dark cooking spice. The Marchesi di Barolo 2012 Barbaresco. Classic young, radiant palate offers juicy cherry, black rasp- Ca’Romè 2011 Rapet (Barbaresco). This 89 Nebbiolo aromas of violet, wild berry and berry, white pepper and star anise alongside brac- 90 brawny, forward wine opens with aromas a whiff of baking spice float out of the glass on this ing but ultra-fine tannins. It boasts great energy and that recall spirits, steeped plum, roasted coffee bean attractive red. The elegantly structured palate offers needs several years to unwind. Drink 2021–2036. and menthol. The dense, chewy palate offers black mature wild cherry, cinnamon, white pepper and Giuliana Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. cherry liqueur, licorice, espresso and the warmth of clove alongside firm, fine-grained tannins. Drink abv: 14.5% Price: $79 evident alcohol accompanied by brooding tannins. 2017–2022. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. Drink sooner rather than later. Empson USA Ltd. abv: 14% Price: $45 Michele Chiarlo 2012 Reyna (Barbaresco). A —K.O. 93 lovely medley of iris, violet, mature berry abv: 15% Price: $103 Pio Cesare 2011 Il Bricco (Barbaresco). Aro- and cake spice aromas emerge on this polished, 89 mas of pressed violet, ripe berry, menthol structured wine. The elegant palate doles out Cantina del Pino 2011 Barbaresco. Crushed and a touch of exotic spice emerge on this full-bod- juicy Morello cherry, black raspberry, white pep- 90 rose, pressed violet, perfumed berry, sage ied red. Showing its hot-vintage origins, the firm per, chopped herb and a licorice note while firm, and a balsamic note are just some of the aromas palate doesn’t boast a lot of fruit richness but offers fine-grained tannins provide the framework. It’s you’ll find on this full-bodied red. The firm palate licorice, espresso, powdered sage and dried cherry still tightly wound and needs time to fully develop. offers dried black cherry, black pepper and lico- accompanied by bracing, grainy tannins. Maisons Drink 2018–2027. Kobrand. —K.O. rice alongside tightly knit tannins and the subtle Marques & Domaines USA. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $39 warmth of alcohol. Give it a few more years to come abv: 14.5% Price: $115 together. Drink 2018–2016. Artisan Wines, Inc. Sottimano 2012 Cottà (Barbaresco). Aromas —K.O. Ca’Romè 2012 Chiaramanti (Barbaresco). 93 of red berry, tilled earth, menthol and dark abv: 15% Price: $44 88 Crushed violet, red berry, mint and menthol cooking spice unfold in the glass. The structured, aromas lead the nose. The firm palate offers dried elegant palate doles out ripe wild cherry, mint, lico- Ceretto 2012 Bernardot (Barbaresco). Aro- red cherry, raw strawberry, licorice, white pepper rice, blood orange and chopped herb alongside firm, 90 mas of rose, red berry, espresso, grilled and sage alongside grippy tannins that leave an as- fine-grained tannins. It’s still tight so let it unwind herb and toast lead the nose. The taut palate offers tringent finish. Give the tannins a few more years for a few more years. Drink after 2019. Giuliana Im- crunchy red cherry, raspberry, star anise and white to unclench then enjoy before the remaining fruit ports. —K.O. pepper alongside tightly wound, assertive tannins. fades. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $58 It closes on a note of roasted coffee bean. Winebow. abv: 14.5% Price: $94 —K.O. Livio Voghera 2009 Basarin (Barbaresco). abv: 14% Price: $100 Gabriele Scaglione 2009 Come un volo (Bar- 92 Enticing aromas of rose, violet, perfumed 88 baresco). This medium-bodied red offers berry, baking spice and mint waft out of the glass Marchesi di Barolo 2012 Serragrilli (Bar- aromas of stewed black-skinned fruit, pressed blue while ripe black cherry, licorice, crushed herb and 90 baresco). Aromas of mature black plum, flower, menthol and clove. On the forward, chewy a hint of tobacco drive the full-bodied, structured espresso, wild rose and spice emerge on this full- palate, notes of licorice and ground pepper accent palate. Firm, velvety tannins provide the backbone. bodied red. The firm palate offers dried black cher- a black cherry core while fine-grained tannins pro- Drink through 2026. Enoclassica Selection. —K.O. ry, menthol, mint, white pepper, well-integrated vide the framework. Drink through 2019. Match- abv: 14.5% Price: $49 oak and licorice alongside fine-grained tannins. vino. —K.O. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45 Nada Fiorenzo 2011 Rombone (Barbaresco). abv: 14.5% Price: $80 92 Rose, violet, mint, sun-baked earth and red Giribaldi 2012 Barbaresco. This opens with berry aromas emerge on this elegantly structured Musso 2012 Pora (Barbaresco). Rose, violet, 87 aromas of dark berry, toast, espresso and wine. The firm palate offers mature wild cherry, 90 baking spice and red berry aromas come to- a whiff of dark cooking spice. The bracing palate white pepper, chopped herb and star anise while gether on this graceful wine. The bright, subtle pal- offers unripe cherry, licorice, powdered sage and tightly wound but polished tannins provide sup- ate offers crushed raspberry, red cherry and white toasted oak alongside bracing tannins that leave an port. Let the tannins unwind then enjoy. Drink pepper alongside fine-grained tannins. A star anise astringent, mouth-puckering finish. Premier Sell- 2018–2026. Premium Brands. —K.O. note signals the close. Panebianco. —K.O. ers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14% Price: $38 abv: 14% Price: $29

Elvio Cogno 2012 Bordini (Barbaresco). Forest Carlo Giacosa 2012 Narin (Barbaresco). A Tenimenti Famiglia Cavallero 2012 La Fenice 91 floor, mature berry, wild herb, clove, smoke 89 few swirls of the glass release subtle aromas 87 (Barbaresco). Rose, mature berry, kitchen

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spice and a whiff of leather lead the nose. On the warmth of alcohol and round tannins. Votto Vines tannins. Drink through 2018. La Famiglia Corona. straightforward palate, notes of licorice and sage Importing. —K.O. —K.O. add interest to the dried black cherry core along- abv: 15% Price: $34 abv: 13% Price: $25 side firm tannins. A black pepper note closes the somewhat fleeting finish. Montcalm Wine Import- Vite Colte 2013 Croere (Barbera d’Alba Su- Elvio Cogno 2013 Bricco dei Merli (Barbera ers. —K.O. 88 periore). Aromas of plum, pressed violet, 90 d’Alba). Aromas of mature dark-skinned abv: 14% Price: $48 toasted oak and a whiff of exotic spice lead the nose. fruit, scorched earth, exotic spice and a whiff of The palate offers dried black cherry, raisin, licorice, blue flower lead the way. The vibrant, savory pal- espresso and black pepper alongside fine-grained ate doles out juicy black cherry, plum, ground pep- BARBERA D’ALBA SUPERIORE tannins. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. per and anise set in a framework of racy acidity and abv: 14% Price: $35 softly polished tannins. Enjoy through 2018. Wilson Brezza 2012 Barbera d’Alba Superiore. Ma- Daniels Ltd. —K.O. 92 ture dark-skinned berry, leather, forest Negretti 2012 Barbera d’Alba Superiore. Aro- abv: 14% Price: $35 floor, eucalyptus and dark cooking spice aromas 87 mas of mature plum, toasted oak, menthol come together in the glass. The delicious palate and dried herb lead the nose. The firm palate offers Palladino 2012 Bricco delle Olive (Barbera doles out juicy black cherry, blackberry, white pep- blackberry jam, dried black cherry, Oriental spice 90 d’Alba). Aromas of toast, espresso, ripe per, clove and licorice alongside round, chewy tan- and licorice alongside grainy tannins that leave an berry and menthol lead the nose. The round, sa- nins. Fine Vines. —K.O. astringent, mouth-drying finish. Vera Fine Wine. vory palate doles out juicy black cherry, blackberry, abv: 14% Price: $30 —K.O. clove, chopped herb and game alongside chewy tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $23 nins. A coffee note closes the finish. Enotec Imports, Cascina delle Rose 2012 Donna Elena (Bar- Inc. —K.O. 92 bera d’Alba Superiore). Bold and delicious, Paolo Manzone 2013 Fiorenza Cascina Meri- abv: 14% Price: $27 this opens with earthy aromas of mature black- 87 ame (Barbera d’Alba Superiore). Toasted oak, skinned fruit, truffle, scorched earth and a whiff of coconut, espresso and exotic spice aromas come to- Rivetto 2012 Zio Nando (Barbera d’Alba). game. The savory, full-bodied palate doles out juicy gether in the glass. The firm palate offers blackberry, 90 Aromas of mature black-skinned fruit, blue black cherry, blackberry, licorice, and baking spice licorice and oak-driven spice alongside grainy tan- flower and Oriental spice float out of the glass. The alongside bright acidity and refined tannins. La nins and brisk acidity. Quintessential Wines. —K.O. round, full-bodied palate offers dried black cherry, Famiglia Corona. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA blackberry jam, licorice and pipe tobacco alongside abv: 15% Price: $34 chewy tannins. Voliovino. —K.O. Vite Colte 2013 La Luna e i Falò (Barbera abv: 14.5% Price: $38 Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2012 Barbera d’Alba 87 d’Alba Superiore). This opens with aromas 91 Superiore. Fresh, firm and fragrant, this of- of leafy underbrush, mature berry, menthol and Ascheri 2013 Fontanelle (Barbera d’Alba). fers aromas of ripe berry, blue flower, chopped herb anise. The palate offers dried blackberry, raisin and 89 This offer aromas of plum jam, Oriental and a whiff of dark cooking spice. The round, savory licorice alongside close-grained tannins and brisk spice, underbrush and a whiff of blue flower. The palate delivers juicy black cherry, raspberry, clove acidity. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. lively, approachable palate doles out juicy black and anise backed up by fresh acidity and smooth, abv: 13.5% Price: $30 cherry, blackberry, white pepper and clove along- polished tannins. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. side vibrant acidity. Martignetti Companies. —K.O. —K.O. Livio Voghera 2011 Barbera d’Alba Supe- abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $NA 86 riore. Aromas of baked plum, charred earth, melted chocolate and Asian spice lead the nose. Comm. G. B. Burlotto 2013 Aves (Barbera Il Falchetto 2011 La Rossa (Barbera d’Alba The evolved, extracted palate offers raisin, a hint 89 d’Alba). Mature berry, dark cooking spice 89 Superiore). The nose isn’t very expressive of exotic spice and a green note of powdered sage and blue flower are some of the aromas that emerge on this big, brawny wine but the chewy, full-bodied that leaves an astringent finish. This has seen bet- on this firm red. On the palate, ground pepper, clove palate offers blackberry jam, raisin, licorice, choco- ter days so drink soon. Enoclassica Selection. —K.O. and licorice accent a black cherry core while brisk late and orange peel alongside smooth tannins. It abv: 14.5% Price: $27 acidity provides the racy framework. Rare Wine still has enough fruit richness to carry off the hearty Company. —K.O. alcohol but drink sooner rather than later. Grape abv: 14% Price: $30 Expectations (CA). —K.O. BARBERA D’ALBA abv: 15% Price: $20 Arbéta 2013 Superiore (Barbera d’Alba). Enzo Boglietti 2012 Roscaleto (Barbera 88 Black-skinned fruit, blue flower and Ori- Matteo Correggia 2012 Marun (Barbera 91 d’Alba). Bold and structured, this opens with ental spice aromas come together in the glass. The 89 d’Alba Superiore). Dark and dense, this aromas of spiced plum, French oak, menthol and a bright, savory palate doles out black cherry, black- opens with aromas of ripe plum, vanilla and exotic whiff of violet. The concentrated, full-bodied palate berry jam and black pepper alongside soft tannins spice. The round, chewy palate offers ripe black doles out blackberry jam, juicy black cherry, vanilla, and fresh acidity. Alma Wines. —K.O. cherry, blackberry, roasted coffee bean, licorice and licorice and exotic spice alongside fine-grained tan- abv: 13% Price: $20 clove alongside close-grained tannins. de Grazia Im- nins. Elixir Wine Group. —K.O. ports LLC. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Beni di Batasiolo 2011 Sovrana (Barbera abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 88 d’Alba). Aromas of scorched earth, mature Cascina delle Rose 2013 Barbera d’Alba. black-skinned fruit, blue flower, toast and Ori- La Fusina 2012 La Castella (Barbera d’Alba 90 Fresh and refined, this delightful, easy- ental spice lead the way on this full-bodied wine. 88 Superiore). Ripe blackberry, wild herb, drinking wine opens with scents of rose, woodland The firm palate offers dried black cherry, espresso, menthol and a whiff of exotic spice lead the nose. berry and a whiff of dark cooking spice. The vibrant, licorice and ground pepper set against a backdrop of The dense, full-bodied palate offers dried black savory palate offers juicy red cherry, raspberry and fine-grained tannins. Batasiolo USA. —K.O. cherry, vanilla, toast and espresso alongside the white pepper alongside bright acidity and polished abv: 14.5% Price: $23

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Broccardo 2013 Barbera d’Alba. Aromas dried black cherry, toast, coconut, licorice and oak- waft out of the glass and carry over to the dense pal- 88 of exotic spice, plum, violet and a whiff of driven spice alongside round tannins. A walnut note ate along with raisin, fig, licorice and a gamy note. chopped herb lead the nose. The firm palate delivers closes the finish. Drink soon. —K.O. It’s rustic and extremely evolved with an abrupt, tart red cherry, espresso, anise, vanilla and coconut abv: 14.5% Price: $NA bitter finish. Siena Imports. —K.O. alongside brisk acidity and grainy tannins. PG Im- abv: 14% Price: $30 ports. —K.O. Manzone 2013 Barbera d’Alba. Straightfor- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 88 ward and savory, this easygoing red offers aromas of wild berry, violet and a whiff of dark BARBERA D’ASTI SUPERIORE Cascina Chicco 2014 Gramera Alta (Barbera kitchen spice. The vibrant palate offers juicy black 88 d’Alba). Bright and fragrant, this opens cherry, licorice and ground pepper set in a frame of Cascina Liuzzi 2012 Sil Nizza (Barbera d’Asti with aromas of underbrush, rose, dark berry and a racy acidity. Marathon Selections. —K.O. 90 Superiore). Firm and full-bodied, this opens whiff of exotic spice. The savory, easy-drinking pal- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 with aromas of mature plum, underbrush, baked ate doles out black cherry, blackberry, white pepper earth, vanilla and exotic spice. The high-toned, and chopped herb alongside bright acidity. Vinifera Raineri Gianmatteo 2013 Sagrin (Barbera chewy palate doles out ripe black cherry, raspberry Imports. —K.O. 88 d’Alba). Aromas of dark berry, cooking jam, vanilla, mocha, white pepper and mint along- abv: 14% Price: $16 spice, chopped herb and a whiff of violet lead the side polished tannins. Misa Imports. —K.O. nose. The racy palate offers sour cherry, cranberry, abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Cascina Chicco 2012 Bric Loira (Barbera espresso and sage alongside brisk acidity and close- 88 d’Alba). Plum, graphite, menthol and exotic grained tannins. A hint of clove closes the finish. Caldera 2012 Barbera d’Asti Superiore. Aro- spice aromas jump out of the glass. The big, round Ionia Atlantic Imports, LLC. —K.O. 88 mas of baked plum, scorched earth, mint palate delivers dried black cherry, mature black- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 and menthol come together in the glass. The firm berry, licorice and vanilla alongside chewy tannins. palate offers dried black cherry, raisin, ground pep- Vinifera Imports. —K.O. Marchesi di Barolo 2013 Peiregal (Barbera per and a hint of Oriental spice accompanied by abv: 14.5% Price: $25 87 d’Alba). Aromas of espresso, French oak, close-grained tannins. A licorice note closes the fin- blackberry and exotic spice lead the way. The firm ish. Marathon Selections. —K.O. Ciabot Berton 2014 Fisetta (Barbera d’Alba). palate offers raw black cherry, coconut and oak- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 88 Aromas of black cherry, ground pepper, driven spice alongside racy acidity and fine-grained clove and chopped herb jump out of the glass and tannins. It closes on a note of roasted coffee bean. Caldera 2012 Balmet (Barbera d’Asti Supe- carry over to the vibrant, easy-drinking palate. Racy Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. 88 riore). Aromas of mature plum, espresso, acidity and round tannins support the juicy fruit. abv: 14% Price: $36 toast and Asian spice lead the nose while the dense It’s made for sheer drinking pleasure so enjoy soon. palate delivers dried black cherry, red currant, lico- Specialty Cellars. —K.O. Orlando Abrigo 2011 Mervisano (Barbera rice and ground pepper. Tangy acidity and close- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 87 d’Alba). Darkly colored and densely con- grained tannins give it a mouth-puckering finish. centrated this opens with aromas of dried plum, Marathon Selections. —K.O. Comm. G. B. Burlotto 2013 Barbera d’Alba. espresso and exotic spice. The evolved palate of- abv: 14.5% Price: $34 88 Fresh and savory, this opens with aromas fers raisin, fig, licorice and ground pepper alongside of dark berry, ground cooking spice and whiff of fine-grained tannins. It’s showing the heat of the Cantine Sant’Agata 2012 Cavalè (Barbera chopped herb. The vibrant palate doles out juicy vintage so drink soon before the fruit dries up com- 88 d’Asti Superiore). This medium-bodied red black cherry, clove, star anise and blood orange pletely. USA Wine Imports. —K.O. opens with aromas of mature blackcurrant, toasted accompanied by racy acidity. Bacchanal Wine Im- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 oak, exotic spice, coconut and menthol. The firm ports. —K.O. palate doles out dried black cherry, blackberry jam, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Podere Ruggeri Corsini 2012 Armujan (Bar- anise and chopped herb alongside grippy, close- 87 bera d’Alba). Aromas of mature plum, grained tannins. It ends on a note of roasted coffee Conterno Fantino 2014 Vignota (Barbera espresso, coconut and toasted oak lead the nose. bean. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —K.O. 88 d’Alba). Aromas of plum, blackberry, violet The firm palate offers fig, blackberry jam, licorice abv: 14% Price: $NA and exotic spice jump out of the glass. The bright, and roasted coffee bean alongside firm, fine-grained polished palate offers black cherry, raspberry jam tannins. The fruit is starting to dry up so drink Il Falchetto 2013 Lurei (Barbera d’Asti Su- and black pepper alongside fresh acidity. It’s made sooner rather than later. Casa Bruno. —K.O. 88 periore). Fresh and full-bodied, this offers for immediate drinking pleasure so enjoy soon. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 aromas of black-skinned fruit, underbrush and Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. dark cooking spice. The firm palate offers dried abv: 14% Price: $33 Rivetti Massimo 2014 Barbera d’Alba. Black- black cherry, plum jam and black pepper alongside 87 berry, ripe plum, kitchen spice and moist polished tannins and fresh acidity. Vitis Imports. Icardi 2012 Suri di Mu (Barbera d’Alba). This earth aromas lead the nose. The straightforward, —K.O. 88 opens with earthy aromas of scorched earth, easy-drinking, palate offers black cherry, white abv: 14.5% Price: $24 overripe plum and a whiff of game. The straightfor- pepper and a hint of anise alongside lively acidity. ward palate offers juicy wild cherry, raspberry jam, Superior Wines. —K.O. Rinaldi 2012 La Bricca (Barbera d’Asti Su- coffee and vanilla alongside zesty acidity and fine- abv: 13% Price: $35 88 periore). Plum, French oak, coffee, vanilla grained tannins. Drink through 2017. Vinifera Im- and Oriental spice aromas emerge in the glass. The ports. —K.O. Collina San Ponzio 2014 Barbera d’Alba. For concentrated palate offers mature black cherry, abv: 14% Price: $22 86 full review see page 13. blackberry jam, vanilla and licorice alongside fine- abv: 13% Price: $17 grained tannins. Kysela Père et Fils. —K.O. Luigi Voghera 2011 Vigna Basarin (Barbera abv: 13.5% Price: $20 88 d’Alba). Underbrush, spiced plum, vanilla Costa di Bussia 2011 Vigna Campo del Gatto and French oak are some of the aromas you’ll find 84 (Barbera d’Alba). Aromas of scorched earth, Ca’ de Lion Ghione 2009 Barrique (Barbera on this full-bodied red. The dense palate offers game, burned rubber and a funky whiff of barnyard 87 d’Asti Superiore). Aromas of raisin, Oriental

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spice and resin emerge in the glass. The polished of espresso. The straightforward palate offers ripe Convento Cappuccini 2013 Don Giovanni but evolved palate offers dried black cherry, mocha, black cherry, toast, anise and a hint of mint along- 85 (Barbera d’Asti). Fresh and informal, this clove and licorice alongside smooth, fleeting tan- side fine-grained tannins. Batasiolo USA. —K.O. lean, easygoing red offers aromas and flavors of nins. This has seen fresher days so drink soon. Ter- abv: 14.5% Price: $21 crunchy sour cherry, ground pepper and a hint of raneo Merchants. —K.O. star anise. Brisk acidity gives it a racy feel. MAD abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Castello del Poggio 2013 Barbera d’Asti. Wines. —K.O. 87 Fresh and fruity, this easy-drinking red abv: 13% Price: $17 Cascina Liuzzi 2012 Otto (Barbera d’Asti Su- delivers aromas and flavors of black cherry, black- 87 periore). Mature plum, crushed violet and berry, black pepper and a hint of anise. Thanks to Gran Passione 2012 Barbera d’Asti. This of- dark cooking spice aromas come together in the bright acidity, it can be paired with almost any dish. 85 fers earthy aromas of prune, scorched soil, glass. The firm palate delivers dried cherry, black- Zonin USA. —K.O. pressed violet and a whiff of game. On the simple, berry extract and licorice alongside firm, fine- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 informal palate, hints of black pepper and coffee grained tannins. Drink soon to capture the remain- add interest to the core of dried black cherry. Wi- ing fruit. Misa Imports. —K.O. Montalbera 2014 La Ribelle (Barbera d’Asti). nesellers, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $14 87 Aromas of dried berry, plum, rose and un- abv: 14% Price: $12 derbrush lead the nose. The easygoing palate offers Il Falchetto 2013 Bricco Paradiso (Barbera raisin, blackberry jam, walnut and black pepper. 87 d’Asti Superiore). Warm and full-bodied, Enjoy through 2017. Soilair Selection. —K.O. ROERO this opens with aromas of espresso, fig, dried berry, abv: 13% Price: $20 toasted oak and clove. The dense palate offers rai- Chiesa Carlo 2012 Monfriggio (Roero). Red sin, oak, roasted coffee bean and spearmint along- Bricco Mondalino 2012 Il Bergantino (Bar- 93 berry, violet and aromatic herb scents un- side round tannins. You’ll also notice the heat of 86 bera d’Asti). Aromas of baked plum, forest fold in the glass while the juicy palate doles out evident alcohol. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. floor, roasted coffee bean and toasted oak lead the crushed red cherry, strawberry, mint and white abv: 15.5% Price: $30 nose. The dense, one-dimensional palate delivers pepper. Bright acidity and firm, polished tannins blackberry jam, licorice, peppermint and espresso provide impeccable balance. Drink after 2018. Luigi Voghera 2011 Barbera d’Asti Superiore. alongside grainy tannins. The the heat of alcohol Wineco Corp. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. 87 Mature plum, underbrush, spice and mo- dominates the midpalate and the finish, throwing abv: 13.5% Price: $20 cha aromas lead the nose while the warm, forward this off balance. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. palate offers dried black cherry, blackberry extract, abv: 15.5% Price: $36 Cascina Cà Rossa 2011 Mompissano Riserva licorice and a hint of nut. Drink soon to capture the 92 (Roero). Aromas of wild berry, spice, aro- remaining freshness and before the fruit dries up Cantine Sant’Agata 2014 Baby (Barbera matic herb, leather and a balsamic note are some entirely. —K.O. 86 d’Asti). Fresh and easy drinking, this in- of the aromas you’ll discover on this firm red. The abv: 14.5% Price: $NA formal wine opens with aromas of dark cherries, structured, savory palate offers mature black rasp- blackberries and a whiff of clove that carry over to berry, sour cherry, black pepper, aniseed and mint Dacapo 2011 Vigna da Capo (Barbera d’Asti the straightforward palate. It’s straightforward but alongside youthfully assertive, polished tannins. 86 Superiore Nizza). Baked plum, baking spice well made. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —K.O. Drink 2018–2025. Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. coconut and vanilla aromas lead the nose. The abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA evolved, fleeting palate offers raisin, nut and a hint of clove. Drink now. Matchvino. —K.O. CarlindePaolo 2014 Cursus Vitae (Barbera Casetta Fratelli 2011 Riserva (Roero). Entic- abv: 14.5% Price: $42 86 d’Asti). This easygoing red offers fruit-driv- 92 ing aromas of wild cherry, spice and licorice en sensations of wild cherry, plum and accents of abound on this elegantly structured Nebbiolo. The black pepper. On the palate, bright acidity supports juicy, savory palate offers layers of ripe red berry, BARBERA D’ASTI the juicy fruit flavors. It’s direct and clean, and will wild cherry, licorice and a note of chewing tobacco work nicely for informal occasions. Curious while firm, fine-grained tannins provide support. Braida di Giacomo Bologna 2013 Montebru- Imports LLC. —K.O. Enjoy through 2021. —K.O. 88 na (Barbera d’Asti). Aromas of black rasp- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: NA Price: $NA berry, violet, baking spice and a whiff of game lead the nose. The chewy palate offers juicy sour cherry, Il Falchetto 2014 Pian Scorrone (Barbera Genereaj 2012 Bric Aut (Roero). Fragrant and ground pepper and licorice alongside racy acidity 86 d’Asti). Fresh and easygoing, this bright 92 polished, this offers enticing aromas of red and round tannins. It’s meant to be drunk young so red opens with subdued aromas of red berry and a berry, rose, eucalyptus and a hint of anise. On the enjoy soon. Lyra Wine. —K.O. whiff of cooking spice. The lively, informal palate of- radiant palate, notes of white pepper and grilled abv: 14% Price: $23 fers black cherry, ground pepper and a hint of anise herb accent juicy sour cherry and crushed rasp- alongside brisk acidity. Casa de Case. —K.O. berry. Glossy tannins provide the silky framework. Coppo 2013 Cascina Gavelli (Barbera d’Asti). abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Drink through 2022. —K.O. 88 Spiced blueberry, ripe plum and tilled earth abv: NA Price: $NA aromas lead the nose on this hearty wine. Made Montalbera 2012 L’Equilibrio (Barbera with no added sulfites, the big, chewy palate deliv- 86 d’Asti). This opens with aromas of new oak, Matteo Correggia 2012 La Val dei Preti (Roe- ers juicy black cherry, ripe blackberry and licorice burned rubber, raisin and vanilla. The one-dimen- 92 ro). Bright red berry, blue flower, chopped alongside the warmth of evident alcohol. Folio Fine sional palate offers candied date, fig, mocha and herb, menthol and cake spice aromas lift out of the Wine Partners. —K.O. licorice alongside bracing, grainy tannins that leave glass. The bright, elegantly structured palate deliv- abv: 15% Price: $20 a mouth-puckering finish. It lacks the fruit richness ers juicy Morello cherry, raspberry jelly, white pep- needed to stand up to the oak spices and astringent per, anise and a hint of game while fine-grained tan- Beni di Batasiolo 2012 Sabri (Barbera d’Asti). tannins. Soilair Selection. —K.O. nins provide polished support. Drink through 2022. 87 This opens with aromas of scorched earth, abv: 14.5% Price: $29 de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. leafy underbrush, mature blackberry and a whiff abv: 14% Price: $NA

84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Negro Angelo e Figli 2012 Sudisfà (Roero). ate offers ripe black cherry, raspberry, licorice and sage and white pepper framed in assertive, fine- 92 Aromas of mature dark-skinned berry, grilled sage while a tobacco note closes the firm fin- grained tannins. The Piedmont Guy. —K.O. toasted hazelnut, espresso, menthol and oak-driven ish. Casa Bruno. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 spice meld together in the glass. The concentrated, abv: 14% Price: $35 full-bodied palate boasts succulent black cherry, Rabino 2012 Roero. Mature dark-skinned raspberry jam, licorice, vanilla and sage framed in Matteo Correggia 2011 Roche d’Ampsej 89 fruit, aniseed and aromatic herb aromas velvety tannins that give this a polished texture. 90 (Roero). Waves of French oak, coconut, play in the glass. On the firm palate, fine-grained Drink 2018–2027. The Piedmont Guy. —K.O. espresso and menthol lead the nose. The dense, ex- tannins support bright red cherry, mint, rosemary abv: 14.5% Price: $66 tracted palate offers raspberry jam, vanilla, toasted and toast. Drink after 2019. —K.O. oak and kirsch alongside packed, fine-grained tan- abv: NA Price: $NA Valdinera 2011 San Carlo Riserva (Roero). nins. The warmth of alcohol and a leathery note 92 Juicy and savory, this boasts aromas of signal the finish. Nebbiolo purists may find the new Demarie 2011 Riserva (Roero). This me- baked cherry pie, dried rose, leather, dark baking wood sensations excessive but if you’re into con- 88 dium-bodied red opens with aromas of spice and a whiff of menthol. The rich, chewy pal- centrated, oak-driven wines, you’ll especially enjoy toasted oak, mature berry and freshly brewed cof- ate offers juicy black cherry, orange zest, crushed this. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. fee. The tight palate offers dried black cherry, white strawberry, white pepper and cinnamon alongside abv: 14.5% Price: $NA pepper, espresso, and a hint of licorice framed in big, ripe tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity for fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2020. Uva Im- the hot vintage. Drink through 2026. John Given Negro Angelo e Figli 2012 San Bernardo ports. —K.O. Wines. —K.O. 90 Riserva (Roero). Mature berry, underbrush, abv: NA Price: $45 abv: NA Price: $NA leather, fennel and a whiff of grilled herb meld to- gether in the glass. The firm, vibrant palate shows Malabaila 2012 Bric Volta (Roero). This is Viglione Antonio 2012 Meo (Roero). Vibrant ripe wild cherry, black raspberry, licorice, coffee 88 infused with engaging scents of red berry, 92 and polished, this offers quintessential Neb- and a balsamic note while bracing, fine-grained tan- crushed violet, rose and a balsamic whiff of euca- biolo aromas of rose petal, wild berry, mint, under- nins provide the framework. Give this a few years lyptus. The linear palate is tightly wound, offering brush and a hint of tilled earth. The elegantly struc- to come together. Drink after 2020. The Piedmont dried wild cherry and a note of light baking spice tured palate doles out fleshy black cherry, clove, Guy. —K.O. accompanied by rather austere tannins. Drink after licorice and a balsamic note. It’s nicely balanced, abv: 14% Price: $NA 2018. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. with bright acidity and firm, refined tannins. Drink abv: NA Price: $NA 2017–2025. —K.O. Alberto Oggero 2012 Roero. This linear red abv: NA Price: $NA 89 offers savory fruit flavors of ripe wild cher- Malabaila 2011 Castelletto Riserva (Roe- ry, juicy strawberry, toast, white pepper and a hint 88 ro). Aromas of sawdust, stewed plum and Careglio 2012 Roero. Fragrant and linear, this of grilled herb. Fine-grained, drying tannins provide chocolate unfold in the glass. The forward palate 91 luminous wine is perfumed with woodland support. Drink after 2018. —K.O. doles out blackberry extract, fleshy cherry, toast, berry, black tea, wild violet and a hint of spice. On abv: NA Price: $NA anise and espresso alongside velvety tannins. Drink the sleek, polished palate, silky tannins and fresh through 2021. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. acidity support bright red cherry, raspberry and Cascina Chicco 2012 Montespinato (Roero). abv: 14.5% Price: $51 white pepper. Drink through 2018. Tamalpais Wine 89 Aromas that recall red berry, chopped herb, Agency. —K.O. baked earth and a whiff of leather lead the way on Matteo Correggia 2012 Roero. Luminous abv: 14% Price: $27 this polished wine. The linear palate delivers dried 88 and linear, this medium-bodied red offers cherry, raspberry wild mint and a touch of white scents of blue flower, rose, perfumed berry and a Ceste 2011 Palliano Riserva (Roero). Berry, pepper that carry through to the firm finish. Vinif- whiff of chopped mint. The vibrant palate delivers 91 baking spice, dried iris, mint and a hint of era Imports. —K.O. red cherry, strawberry and licorice alongside fine- vanilla come together on this structured wine. On abv: 14% Price: $26 grained tannins. Enjoy through 2017. de Grazia Im- the palate, notes of white pepper, sage, anise, or- ports LLC. —K.O. ange zest and yellow peach accent the red cherry Cascina Chicco 2011 Valmaggiore Riserva abv: NA Price: $NA core while a balsamic note closes the finish. Firm, 89 (Roero). Aromas of baked plum, cherry refined tannins provide the backbone. La Famiglia under spirits, oak and coconut lead the nose while Monpissan 2012 Roero. Balsamic notes, Corona. —K.O. the polished palate offers ripe black cherry, vanilla, 88 leather, menthol and red berry aromas take abv: NA Price: $NA grilled herb and a hint of licorice. Firm, fine-grained center stage. On the firm palate, tightly wound tan- tannins support the savory flavors. Vinifera Im- nins frame black cherry and a hint of anise. Give Cornarea 2012 Roero. Rose petal, violet, red ports. —K.O. this another year or two to unfold then drink up. 91 berry, white pepper and eucalyptus scents abv: NA Price: $NA —K.O. meld together on this bright, structured expression abv: NA Price: $NA of Nebbiolo. The linear, elegant palate doles out Deltetto 2012 Roero. Bright aromas of wild juicy red cherry, mint, aromatic herb and star anise 89 berry, blue flower, orange zest and a hint Valfaccenda 2012 Roero. This elegant red while firm, polished tannins and fresh acidity pro- of exotic spice drive the nose. The firm palate of- 88 offers aromas and flavors of toast, rasp- vide the framework. It’s already accessible but will fers juicy red cherry, strawberry, mint, oregano and berry, sour cherry, espresso and white pepper. Firm, also age gracefully over the next several years. Drink hints of toast and espresso alongside drying tan- fine-grained tannins provide the framework. Drink through 2024. Tesori Wines. —K.O. nins. Casa Bruno. —K.O. through 2019. Tanaro River Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $33

Deltetto 2011 Braja Riserva (Roero). Wild Negro Angelo e Figli 2012 Prachiosso (Roe- Bel Colle 2012 Monvijè (Roero). Attractive 90 berry, grilled herb, aniseed and a hint of 89 ro). Mature berry, toast, espresso, fennel 87 aromas of red berry, rose petal and a light vanilla are some of the aromas you’ll find on this and a balsamic note lead the nose. The firm palate note of cooking spice fill the glass. On the tightly attractive red. The linear, elegantly structured pal- doles out Morello cherry, raspberry jam, powdered wound palate, dried red cherry, sage and white pep-

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per are offset by austere tannins that lead to a rath- La Fusina 2013 ( Superiore). dress, this would be perfect for any occasion. Oliver er short, bracing finish. Premium Brands. —K.O. 87 Aromas of crushed dark-skinned berry, vio- McCrum Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA let, clove and a hint of chopped herb lead the nose. abv: 13% Price: $20 The lean palate offers raw raspberry, sour cherry Fabrizio Battaglino 2012 Sergentin (Roero). and ground pepper alongside firm tannins. A note of La Prevostura 2010 Muntacc (Coste della 87 Aromas of oak, toast, coconut and dark berry bitter walnut closes the finish. Votto Vines Import- 90 Sesia). A few swirls of the glass release en- lead the nose and carry over to the bracing palate ing. —K.O. gaging aromas of baking spice, red berry, rose and a along with white pepper and oak-driven spice. Firm, abv: 13.5% Price: $28 whiff of tar. The linear, elegantly structured palate extremely astringent tannins give this a bracing fin- boasts bright wild cherry, white pepper, cinnamon ish. Drink after 2018. Artisan Wines, Inc. —K.O. Raineri Gianmatteo 2013 Cornole Dolcetto and a mineral note alongside vibrant acidity and as- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 86 (Dogliani). Floral scents of violet and iris sertive but refined tannins. It’s still rather austere lead the nose on this informal red. The straightfor- but should blossom into a beauty after a few more Monchiero Carbone 2011 Printi Riserva (Roe- ward palate offers raw black cherry, cranberry and years in the cellar. Enjoy after 2019. Oliver McCrum 87 ro). French oak, vanilla, coconut, menthol white pepper alongside firm, drying tannins that Wines. —K.O. and berry aromas lead the nose and carry over to the leave a raspy finish. Ionia Atlantic Imports, LLC. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 bracing palate along with close-grained tannins that —K.O. leave a rather astringent finish. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $19 Sandrone 2013 Valmaggiore (Nebbiolo abv: 14% Price: $45 90 d’Alba). Delicately perfumed with red ber- ry, violet and a whisper of chopped mint, this is a Massucco 2012 Roero. Aromas of berry, OTHER RED WINES young, elegant expression of Nebbiolo. The bright, 86 toast and espresso lead the nose while the linear palate doles out crushed cherry, juicy straw- tight palate offers dried cherry and a hint of ground La Prevostura 2011 Bramaterra. Perfumed berry, white pepper and cinnamon framed in lively pepper. Firm, grippy tannins give it a mouth-drying 93 berry, dark spice, dried herb, a hint of tar acidity and polished tannins. Enjoy through 2017. finish. Bacco Wine & Spirit, LLC. —K.O. and a balsamic note are some of the aromas you’ll Vintus LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $15 find on this striking red. The racy palate boasts abv: 13% Price: $55 finesse and structure, delivering red cherry, rasp- berry, white pepper and cinnamon alongside brac- Paolo Scavino 2014 Dolcetto d’Alba. Simple GATTINARA ing but refined tannins and vibrant acidity. This is 89 and delicious, this vibrant, mouthwatering made for lengthy cellaring so give it ample time to red doles out fleshy black cherry, crushed blueberry, Travaglini 2009 Tre Vigne (Gattinara). For fully develop into the dazzling wine it promises to ground pepper and clove alongside polished tan- 94 full review see page 5. become. Drink 2021–2036. Oliver McCrum Wines. nins. An almond note graces the finish. This makes a abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Cellar Selection. —K.O. fantastic everyday wine. Martin Scott Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $15 Travaglini 2010 Il Sogno (Gattinara). Made 91 with dried Nebbiolo grapes, this offers aro- La Prevostura 2010 Lessona. Made with Travaglini 2013 Nebbiolo (Coste della Se- mas of pressed rose, mature dark berry, leather, 93 90% Nebbiolo and 10% Vespolina, this el- 89 sia). Polished and fragrant, this charming baking spice and a balsamic note. The concentrated, egantly structured red offers a fragrance of crushed red offers alluring scents of freshly picked rose, red forward palate doles out mature black cherry, carob, rose, wild berry, tilled soil, baking spice and iron. berry, tilled soil and a whiff of aromatic herb. Vi- date, clove and tobacco alongside firm, fine-grained The sleek, focused palate boasts juicy red cherry, brant acidity and supple tannins balance the bright tannins. Palm Bay International. —K.O. crushed raspberry, star anise and white pepper cherry, strawberry, white pepper and anise flavors. abv: 15.5% Price: $128 backed up by a vein of energizing mineral. Bright Enjoy through 2017. Palm Bay International. —K.O. acidity and polished tannins provide balance. Drink abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Travaglini 2010 Gattinara. For full review through 2017–2030. Oliver McCrum Wines. Edi- 90 see page 12. tors’ Choice. —K.O. Paolo Marcarino 2014 Zeroincondotta (Bar- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 86 bera di ). Made with organically grown grapes and with no added sulfites, this opens Travaglini 2009 Riserva (Gattinara). Aro- Le Pianelle 2011 Bramaterra. You’ll find with earthy aromas of black-skinned fruit, ground 90 mas of red berry, rose, toast and a whiff of 93 scents of red berry, chopped herb, clove and pepper and a whiff of truffle. The lively, simple pal- oak emerge in the glass. The firm palate offers ma- a balsamic note on this fragrant Nebbiolo, Vespo- ate offers black cherry and clove alongside vibrant ture wild cherry, licorice, grilled sage and mineral lina and blend. The luminous palate deliv- acidity. The Triton Collection. —K.O. alongside taut, fine-grained tannins. Palm Bay In- ers ripe cherry, juicy strawberry, white pepper, and abv: 14% Price: $14 ternational. —K.O. menthol underscored by a mineral vein. It’s elegant abv: 13.5% Price: $60 and intense but still austere at this stage, with a firm tannic backbone. Drink 2018–2031. Oliver Mc- ASTI Crum Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O. DOGLIANI abv: 14% Price: $55 Gancia 2011 Cuvéè 24 mesi Metodo Classico 89 (Asti). Made with Moscato, this sparkling Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2012 Vigna Tecc Dolcetto Gilberto Boniperti 2012 Carlin (Colline No- dessert wine opens with aromas of fragrant white 91 (Dogliani Superiore). Aromas of black cherry, 90 varesi). Rose, strawberry and forest floor flower, apricot and a note of chopped herb. The ground cooking spice and a whiff of grilled herb aromas meld in the glass on this charming expres- foaming palate offers dried apricot, yellow peach drive the nose on this structured red. The envelop- sion of Nebbiolo. The bright, savory palate doles and candied nectarine zest while a lemon drop note ing palate doles out ripe black cherry, licorice, al- out crushed strawberry, black raspberry, clove and signals the close. Russian Standard Vodka. —K.O. mond and black pepper accompanied by firm, vel- star anise alongside silky tannins. Like a little black abv: 7% Price: $30 vety tannins. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Thörle 2013 Saulheimer Hölle Riesling Trocken grass lend a particularly invigorating cool to this GERMANY 91 (Rheinhessen). Fresh green florals and melon dry, delicate Riesling. It’s brashly mineral on the rind lend a breathlessly cool tone to this elegantly palate, finishing tightly with a bracing shower of RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS composed dry Riesling. Forward flush yellow plum acidity. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. and gooseberry flavors are offset by lime zest, fresh abv: 12% Price: $24 S.A. Prüm 2011 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Old sage and bristling acidity. It finishes with persis- 95 Vines GG Erste Lage Dry Riesling (Mosel). For tence and length. Drinks well now but should im- Mathern 2014 Gutsriesling Dry Riesling full review see page 4. prove through 2020. Ingenium Wines. —A.I. 87 (Nahe). Touches of autumn leaves and dried abv: 12.5% Price: $50 abv: 13% Price: $49 herbs lend a savory feel to this dry and tightly com- posed Riesling. Bracing acidity and savory apple and S.A. Prüm 2012 Graacher Dompropst GG Dry Thörle 2013 Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). pear flavors mark the palate. Wine Wine Situation 94 Riesling (Mosel). Zesty white grapefruit, 91 Lime and gooseberry are gilded with candle LLC. —A.I. green apple and lime form the core of this lithe, racy wax and smoky minerals in this bracing dry Ries- abv: 11% Price: $21 Riesling. Dry in style, it’s feather light on the palate ling. Lemon and tart tangerine flavors drench the yet penetrating, honed by an edge of steel and min- palate, leaving a honed, steely focus on the finish. Mathern 2014 Red Rock Dry Gutsabfüllung erality. The finish lingers long, yet refreshes thrill- Ingenium Wines. —A.I. 87 Riesling (Nahe). Hints of bramble and earth ingly. Palm Bay International. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 accent pressed apple and pear flavors in this dry abv: 12% Price: $75 crisply composed Riesling. It’s zesty and tight but Villa Huesgen 2014 Enkircher Steffenberg Alte finishes with revitalizing refreshment. Wine Wine S.A. Prüm 2013 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Old 91 Reben Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Laser-edged Situation LLC. —A.I. 93 Vines GG Dry Riesling (Mosel). Bright sun- acidity balances ripe luscious yellow peach and abv: 12% Price: $24 kissed yellow peach and melon flavors permeate grapefruit flavors in this sprightly dry Riesling. Lift- throughout this fresh and fruity, yet richly con- ed apple blossom perfume extends onto the palate, Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2014 Dom Dry centrated dry Riesling. It’s buoyantly youthful still, lingering alongside a crush of refreshing mineral 86 Riesling (Mosel). While pressed apple and but tinged by a mineral elegance that expands and tones. Drinks beautifully now but should continue pear notes are ripe and concentrated, whiffs of al- deepens on the midpalate. It drinks gorgeously now, to improve through 2020. Quintessential Wines. lium and earth lend a savory, shadowy tone to this but will continue to improve through at least 2020. —A.I. wine. Regardless, it’s refreshing and dry in compo- Palm Bay International. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $50 sure with moderately long length. Schmitt-Söhne abv: 12% Price: $50 USA. —A.I. Villa Huesgen 2014 Schiefer Riesling abv: 12% Price: $17 90 Trocken (Mosel). White peaches and pink RIESLING TROCKEN grapefruits lend perfume and brightness to this Heinz Eifel 2013 Estate Dry Riesling (Mosel). racy, lean-bodied Riesling. Dry in style with a zesty 86 Earth and bramble notes intensify the sa- Thörle 2013 Saulheimer Probstey Riesling mineral-focused palate, it’s endlessly refreshing and vory, mineral character of this dry, spry Riesling. 93 Trocken (Rheinhessen). Spicy orange rind invigorating. Quintessential Wines. —A.I. Lemon and lime revitalize the midpalate and lead a and sunny tangerine notes offset steely shards of abv: 11.5% Price: $35 zesty finish. Drink now. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. lime and mineral in this bracing, deeply concen- abv: 11% Price: $15 trated Riesling. The midpalate smooths out richly, Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2014 glazed by a sheen of lanolin that stretches out the 89 Niersteiner Hipping Vom Rotliegenden red Von Schleinitz 2014 Estate Dry Riesling (Mo- finish. Drinks beautifully already, but should im- soil Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). Invigorating 86 sel). Vivacious notes of yellow plum and prove through 2020. Ingenium Wines. —A.I. white grapefruit and lemons are cast against a deep pear are shaded in tones of savory herb and earth in abv: 13% Price: $43 mineral backdrop in this dry, thirst quenching wine. this dry light-bodied Riesling. Lemon and tart tan- It’s delicate and filigreed on the palate with a brisk, gerine acidity jolt the midpalate into a brisk finish. Thörle 2013 Saulheimer Schlossberg Ries- tight finish. Drink now. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. Drink now. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —A.I. 93 ling Trocken (Rheinhessen). Whiffs of pine abv: 9% Price: $16 abv: 11% Price: $15 fronds, smoke and spice lend a woodsy alpine flair to this dry, intensely mineral Riesling. The palate is Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2014 Dry Riesling (Mo- bracing and bold, juxtaposing crisp greengage plum 88 sel). Fresh yellow cherries and greengage RIESLING KABINETT and lime against crushed minerals and lemon-zest plums perfume this spry but lushly textured Ries- astringency. It’s a penetrating, thrilling wine that ling. It is dry in style, but has a comforting clingi- S.A. Prüm 2013 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling drinks well now but should only intensify in its ness that enriches the finish. Drink now. Winesell- 92 Kabinett Grosse Lage (Mosel). For full re- mineral complexity through 2023. Ingenium Wines. ers, Ltd. —A.I. view see page 8. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 8.5% Price: $27 abv: 12.5% Price: $49 Mathern 2014 3 Stones Niederhäuser Dry St. Urbans-Hof 2014 Goldtröpfchen Piesport Thörle 2013 Saulheimer Kalkstein Riesling 88 Riesling (Nahe). With a nose that’s quite 92 Riesling Kabinett Erste Lage (Mosel). Lifted 92 Trocken (Rheinhessen). Whiffs of smoke and neutral, the sun-kissed, fruity flair of this dry Ries- and perfumed, this sprightly Kabinett is a crush of nuts lend a savory contrast to pristine white grape- ling surprises. It’s a juicy, straightforward wine but primary melon, white peach and lime flavors. It’s fruit, lime and lemon in this racy mineral-focused briskly, elegantly composed as well. Drink now. breathlessly nimble, catapulted by a shock of lem- Riesling. It’s bracing yet composed, dry in style yet Wine Wine Situation LLC. —A.I. ony acidity, but coats the finish in a rich glaze of sunny in citrus flavors. Drinks beautifully now but abv: 12% Price: $21 honey and yellow cherries. It’s lip smacking good- should improve through 2020. Ingenium Wines. ness at its most elegant. Drink now through 2020. —A.I. Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2013 HB Wine Merchants. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $27 88 Hummerthal Niersteiner Paterberg Riesling abv: 9.5% Price: $25 Trocken (Rheinhessen). Lime zest and freshly cut

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BUYINGGUIDE

Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2014 Leonard Kreusch 2014 Studert Prüm Maxi- Vereinigte Hospitien 2014 Piesport Gold- 91 Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett Riesling 90 minhof Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabi- 89 tröpfchen Riesling Kabinett Grosse Lage (Mosel). Whiffs of turmeric and saffron lend exotic nett (Mosel). While honey and white peach flavors (Mosel). Dusty crushed mineral and smoke tones flair to this bracing lemon-lime Riesling. Off-dry in ring pure and sweet, there’s a slatey, mineral tone extend from start to finish in this sprightly off-dry style, it’s refreshing and quaffable, yet remarkably that penetrates deeply in this off-dry Kabinett. It’s Riesling. The palate balances savory and sweet well, complex if you’ll give it the time and attention it nervy and brisk, finishing long with zesty lime pith highlighting its sweet red apple, honey and peach deserves. Drink now through 2020. Winesellers, bitterness. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. tones. The finish is moderately long. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 7% Price: $24 Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $22 abv: 8% Price: $24 St. Urbans-Hof 2014 Ockfener Bockstein Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2014 Graacher 90 Riesling Kabinett Este Lage (Mosel). Lifted Villa Huesgen 2014 Trabener Würzgarten 91 Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Cit- honeysuckle and jasmine perfume abound through- 89 Riesling Kabinett Trocken (Mosel). Cutting rus blossoms are coated in honey and peach nec- out this textbook Mosel Kabinett. Sun-kissed apri- and crisp, this wine is a showcase for the complexi- tar in this sunny deeply concentrated Kabinett. It’s cots and peaches burst on the palate, yet main- ties that exist beneath its austere mineral style. On off-dry in style yet balanced by a luminous streak of tain a graphite edge of minerality and acidity. It’s the palate, fresh apple and pear notes are glazed by tangerine acidity that drives the finish long and dry. a crystalline fruity wine that’s irresistible now for a crush of wet mineral stones. It’s a refreshingly, It’s a bristling revitalizing sip. Vinum Cos. —A.I. its youthful exuberance. HB Wine Merchants. —A.I. mouth quenching wine that finishes taut and pris- abv: 7% Price: $23 abv: 8.5% Price: $22 tine. Quintessential Wines. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $40 Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium 2014 Graacher Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2014 Bern­ 91 Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Juicy, 89 kasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Ries- Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2013 sun-kissed grapefruits and apple blossoms explode ling Kabinett (Mosel). Hints of bramble and earth 89 Niersteiner Paterberg Vom Kalk Limestone from this buoyantly fresh, off-dry Kabinett. Invigo- lend savory nuances to sunny yellow peach and mel- Riesling Kabinett Trocken (Rheinhessen). While rating acidity lends backbone and a steely focus that on flavors in this bright vivaciously crisp Kabinett. taut and intensely mineral, there’s a core of juicy resonates long on the finish. It’s beautiful now, but Off-dry in style, it’s balanced by a stream of focused grapefruit and honeydew flavors that shine brightly should hold nicely, and perhaps improve, through tangerine acidity leading from midpalate through a throughout this Riesling. Dry in style, it finishes 2020. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I. moderately long finish. Start drinking now. Vinum tightly on zesty lime-pith note. Drink now. Wine- abv: 8% Price: $23 Cos. —A.I. sellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $28 abv: 12.5% Price: $24 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2014 Piesporter 90 Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). A Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2014 Graacher Him- Willi Haag 2014 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling delicate streak of honeycomb gilds layers of yellow 89 melreich Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Saffron, 89 Kabinett Grosse Lage (Mosel). Shocks of peaches, apples and tangerines in this off-dry Ries- fennel and spice are peppered throughout the nose ripe rich yellow peach and pineapple revitalize the ling. Its concentrated fruitiness is lip smacking, but and palate of this savory nuanced Riesling. Off-dry palate of this animated off-dry Riesling. Simulta- it’s also quite elegant, reverberating long on a steely and zesty, it hits the palate with stacatto movements neously bracing and sun-drenched, it’s a straight- strike of acidity and minerality. Drink now through of acidity and sweetness. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. forward yet delectably juicy treat. Enjoy now while 2020. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I. abv: 7% Price: $23 young. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $23 abv: 8.5% Price: $22 Matheus 2014 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2014 Bern­ 89 Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). While the nose is Bollig-Lehnert 2014 Piesporter Riesling 90 kasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett (Mo- a touch earthy and savory, the core of this vivacious 88 Kabinett (Mosel). Hints of yuzu citrus and sel). While racy and spry, this delicately framed Riesling boasts spicy dried orange peels, tangerine smoke entice on the nose of this puckery tangerine- wine packs a punch of honeyed peach and nectar- and honey. Lemonade acidity leads a moderately inflected Riesling. Off-dry in style, it’s enriched by ine flavors. It’s effusively fresh, floral and fruity, yet long finish. It’s a thirst quenching fresh wine to luscious streaks of honey and sweet grapefruit on accentuated by a crystalline sheen of minerality. drink young. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. the midpalate. Finishes moderately long on a kiss of Drink now. Vinum Cos. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $20 blossoms. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $18 abv: 7.5% Price: $17 Peter Nicolay 2014 Graacher Himmelreich Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2014 Bernkasteler Bad- 89 Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). A lacy spray of Dr. Heyden 2014 Oppenheimer Riesling Kabi- 90 stube Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Layers of sweetness extends from start to finish on this fruity, 88 nett (Rheinhessen). Sun-kissed grapefruit pollen, dusty mineral and spice lend complexity fresh Kabinett. Fresh apple, pear and tangerine are and tangerine flavors are accented by darker notes to this concentrated wine full of yellow peach and honeyed and lip smacking, energized by a streak of of bramble and lime zest in this crisp, cutting Ries- fresh apple flavors. It’s delicate and lithe in texture, lemonade acidity on the finish. Vinum Cos. —A.I. ling. Off-dry, juicy yet refreshing and light-footed, yet punchy and penetrating. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 7% Price: $20 it’s an everyday wine with a touch of flair and el- abv: 8.5% Price: $20 egance. Winesellers, Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. Thanisch 2014 Bernkastel-Kueser Weisen- abv: 11.5% Price: $13 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2014 Wehlener Son- 89 stein Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Sun-rip- 90 nenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Juicy ened mango and pineapple flavors lend a lavish, S.A. Prüm 2014 Prüm Blue Riesling Kabinett succulent tangerine and yellow peach flavors meld tropical feel to this off-dry Riesling. At the same 88 (Mosel). A streak of wax and honeycomb on the palate of this forward fruity off-dry wine. On time, there’s a resolute core of acidity that gives it glazes through this otherwise brisk citrusy Riesling. first taste, it’s quite straightforward, but added at- balance and grace. It’s concentrated and fruity but Off-dry and concentrated in apples and tangerines, tention reveals glimmers of spice, saffron and min- maintains vitality and length. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. it finishes moderately long with lingering touches eral complexities. Drink now through 2024. Wine- —A.I. of tea leaf and honey. Drink now. Palm Bay Inter- sellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $21 national. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $22 abv: 10% Price: $23

88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2014 sweet-tart grapefruit and Meyer lemon flavors. The 88 Niersteiner Paterberg Vom Kalk Limestone RIESLING SPÄTLESE finish is crisp and clean. Vinum Cos. —A.I. Riesling Kabinett Trocken (Rheinhessen). Riper abv: 7.5% Price: $30 notes of pink grapefruit and tangerine distinguish St. Urbans-Hof 2014 Bockstein Ockfen Ries- this dry Riesling from Georg Albrecht Schneider’s 93 ling Spätlese Erste Lage (Mosel). Rather Mathern 2014 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle other 2014 wines. The palate is cutting and crisp, austere whiffs of lemon, lime and pine on the nose 90 Riesling Spätlese Dry Gutsabfüllung (Nahe). showcasing tart limes and gooseberries against a of this medium-sweet Spätlese belie the fruity mé- While dry in style, this late-harvest Riesling seems blossomy finish. Drink now. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. lange of grapefruit and guava that awaits on the pal- drizzled in honey and nectar. It’s delicately framed, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 ate. It’s dainty in mouthfeel, yet buoyant and pen- dancing spry across the palate and finishing crisp etrating in sweet citrus, honey and melon flavors. and bright. It’s an elegant invigorating wine that Dr. Volkmar 2013 Riesling Kabinett (Rhein- The finish draws out dramatically, meandering on a drinks well now but should continue to meld nicely 87 hessen). Luscious honeyed tangerine and murmur of tea tannins. HB Wine Merchants. —A.I. till at least 2024. Wine Wine Situation LLC. —A.I. yellow peach notes are offset by a streak of mineral- abv: 8.5% Price: $38 abv: 12.5% Price: $38 ity in this easy, off-dry Riesling. It’s delicate in body yet juicy and refreshing. Drink now. Prestige Wine & St. Urbans-Hof 2014 Goldtröpfchen Piesport Vereinigte Hospitien 2014 Scharzhofberger Spirits Group. —A.I. 93 Riesling Spätlese Erste Lage (Mosel). A pen- 89 Riesling Spätlese Grosse Lage (Mosel). Fresh abv: 8.5% Price: $13 etrating mineral streak cuts through layers of hon- apples and pears seem dusted in a fine mineral pow- eyed peach and cantaloupe in this intensely con- der in this brisk, semisweet Riesling. It’s feather- Leonard Kreusch 2014 Piesporter Goldtröpf- centrated, complex Spätlese. It’s lip smacking and light in texture, darting and dancing alongside a 87 chen Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Saffron and succulently sweet, yet balanced by a zesty citrus lemon-lime vein of acidity that pierces through the orange blossoms perfume this intensely ripe, almost backbone that pulses long through the finish. HB finish. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. honey-slick Kabinett. There’s a zesty backbone of Wine Merchants. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $30 tangerine acidity, but the palate is a crush of ruddy abv: 9.5% Price: $42 yellow peach and nectarine flavors. It’s a luscious, Bollig-Lehnert 2014 Piesporter Goldtröpf- forward wine to enjoy young. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. St. Urbans-Hof 2014 Schodener Saarfeilser 88 chen Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Crisp apple —A.I. 93 Marienberg Riesling Spätlese Erste Lage and pears are streaked with earthy tones of saffron abv: 8% Price: $16 (Mosel). The 2014 vintage produced so many stand- and bramble in this brisk invigorating Spätlese. It’s outs for St. Urbans-Hof, it’s hard to decide on favor- concentrated and fruity on the palate with a clingy Leonard Kreusch 2014 Piesporter Michelsberg ites, but this luminous Spätlese pulls quite a bit of honeyed touch that extends the finish. Winesellers, 87 Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Whiffs of pollen weight for its dimunitive price tag. While delicate Ltd. —A.I. and saffron lend shades of nuance to this otherwise in frame, it’s dramatic in composure, shifting from abv: 8% Price: $21 perky sun-kissed Kabinett. Sweet yellow peach and floral fruity exuberance to waxy, mineral and taut apricot flavors are honeyed and plush, but balance in each sip. It’s drinking gorgeously now but should Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2014 Bernkasteler alte out nicely through a crisp, lime-tinged finish. Drink hold well, and perhaps improve, through at least 88 Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Spätlese now. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. 2020. HB Wine Merchants. —A.I. (Mosel). Jolts of honey, lemon and lime introduce abv: 8% Price: $13 abv: 9% Price: $25 this animated Spätlese. It’s forward and approach- able with sunny tangerine and peach flavors, but Max Ferd. Richter 2014 Mülheimer Sonnenlay Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2014 Bern­ maintains a nervous tension of acidity. The finish is 87 Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (Mosel). A whiff 90 kasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Ries- brisk and tight. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. of spice amidst freshly pressed apples and pears ling Spätlese (Mosel). Bramble and dried herbs, abv: 7.5% Price: $28 gives this bright, easy going Kabinett an autumnal pressed apple and peach notes blend elements of feel. A swirl of honey enriches the midpalate, finish- savory and sweet in this complex Spätlese. Shim- Heinz Eifel 2014 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). ing with lemon-tea sweetness. Begin drinking now. mering lemon-lime acidity refreshes the midpalate, 88 For full review see page 14. Best Buy. Massanois Imports. —A.I. leaving lingering tones of finely crushed mineral. abv: 7.5% Price: $13 abv: 9.5% Price: $20 Vinum Cos. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $33 Max Ferd. Richter 2014 Erdener Treppchen Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2014 Nier- 88 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). This honeyed 87 steiner Paterberg Riesling Kabinett (Rhein- Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2014 Bern­ spicy Spätlese seems straightforward in fruit, but hessen). Bramble and herb notes are prominent on 90 kasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese (Mo- its racy, nerve-tingling energy is electrifying. Fresh the nose, but subside into succulent white grape- sel). A hint of bramble wafts amidst crisp Asian apple and pears are revitalized by streaks of lemon, fruit and tangerine on the palate of this cheerful off- pear and green apple notes on this invigorating spry lime and grapefruit that linger through a moderately dry Riesling. Sunny acidity adds to its approachable, Spätlese. Searing lemon-lime acidity is softened by long finish. Massanois Imports. —A.I. easygoing feel. Drink now. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. a plump kiss of honeyed apricot on the midpalate. abv: 8.5% Price: $19 abv: 9% Price: $14 It’s elegant, yet accessible, and drinks well now. Vi- num Cos. —A.I. Peter Nicolay 2014 Graacher Himmelreich Schäfer 2014 Mettenheimer Riesling Kabi- abv: 8% Price: $28 88 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). While the nose 86 nett (Rheinhessen). While fresh pink is restrained, the palate of this Spätlese Riesling grapefruit and Meyer lemon notes shine brightly on Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2014 Graacher abounds in sweet-tart nectarine, peach and tanger- the nose and palate of this off-dry Riesling, there’s 90 Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Del- ine flavors. Primary and fresh, it’s an uncomplicated a touch of savory allium that distracts. It’s a juicy icate whiffs of tangerine and lime intensify on the yet vibrantly penetrating wine. Drink now. Vinum easygoing wine with approachably soft, sunny acid- palate of this Spätlese Riesling, complemented by Cos. —A.I. ity. Drink now. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. swathes of green herb and pine frond. It’s superlight abv: 7.5% Price: $30 abv: 10% Price: $13 in texture, yet penetrating, showering the palate in Dr. Heyden 2014 Oppenheimer Sachträger 87 Riesling Spätlese (Rheinhessen). A blos-

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somy, perfumed edge lends lift and vibe to earthier tea-stained finish. Drinks beautifully now but and candied orange peel in this intensely ripe hon- notes of pressed apple and pear in this light-foot- should only intensify through 2024. Palm Bay In- eyed Riesling. The palate bursts with yellow peach ed medium-sweet Riesling. It’s racy and sharp in ternational. —A.I. and mango, but savory tinges of earth and petrol mouthfeel with a finish that’s brisk and bright. Wi- abv: 7.5% Price: $43 peek through enticingly. It’s dazzling now, a veri- nesellers, Ltd. —A.I. table explosion of sweetness, acidity and mineral- abv: 9.5% Price: $16 St. Urbans-Hof 2014 Goldtröpfchen Piesport ity, but should meld beautifully from 2020-2025. 91 Riesling Erste Lage (Mosel). Chamo- Ingenium Wines. Cellar Selection. —A.I. Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2014 Bernkasteler Bad- mile blossoms seem to perfume this delicately abv: 7.5% Price: $79/375 ml 87 stube Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Smoke and fruity, floral wine. Medium-sweet in style, it’s dain- exotic spice notes intensify from nose to palate of ty and spry, showering the palate with sweet Meyer Thörle 2013 Grains Noble (Rheinhessen). this delicately framed medium-sweet wine. It’s a lemon, lime and honey. It’s pristine through a long 92 Whiffs of vanilla, saffron, peach and yellow savory, rather spicy wine, but a core of honey-laced meandering finish. HB Wine Merchants. —A.I. cherry lend exotic flair to this unctuous yet delicate peaches and pears shines brightly on the palate. abv: 9% Price: $60 dessert wine. A blend of Riesling, Scheurebe and Dazzling lemon-lime acidity extends a moderately Huxelrebe grapes, its unique composition lends long finish. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. St. Urbans-Hof 2014 Bockstein Ockfen Ries- plumpness of fruit balanced by zesty acidity and a abv: 7% Price: $26 90 ling Auslese Erste Lage (Mosel). Fresh apple lingering waxy sheen. It’s sure to be a dramatic fin- and pear flavors are swathed in fresh herbs and cit- ish to an elegant dinner event, yet surprisingly af- Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2014 Wehlener Son- rus peels in this bristling medium-sweet wine. It’s fordable. Ingenium Wines. —A.I. 87 nenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Pressed lusciously honeyed but finishes long with honed abv: 7.5% Price: $37/500 ml apple and pears are dusted in pollen and saffron in steely precision. HB Wine Merchants. —A.I. this earth-toned Spätlese. Delicately sweet honey abv: 9.5% Price: $60 tones brighten the midpalate, accompanied by brac- OTHER RIESLING ing lemonade acidity. The finish is moderately long, marked by a lingering touch of dried herbs. Wine- SWEET RIESLING Villa Huesgen 2014 1735 Riesling (Mosel). sellers, Ltd. —A.I. 89 Vibrant yellow peach, apricot and blossom abv: 7.5% Price: $28 S.A. Prüm 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr notes permeate deeply through this light-footed 97 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Erste Lage dry Riesling. It’s exuberantly primary, yet not at all Peter Nicolay 2014 Ürziger Goldwingert Ries- (Mosel).­ Lip-smacking is an inelegant yet apt word cloying. Enjoy now for it’s youthful vitality. Quint- 87 ling Spätlese (Mosel). Slightly oxidized tones to describe the unctuousness of this nectar of hon- essential Wines. —A.I. of pressed apple and pear are lifted by a shock of lem- ey, saffron and marmalade. It’s delightfully rich and abv: 11.5% Price: $20 ony acidity in this spry semi-dry Riesling. The tan- creamy, yet gorgeously balanced, seared by a razor’s gerine palate extends moderately long, encouraged by edge of lemon-lime acidity. It’s an exceptional wine C.H. Berres 2012 Berres Estate Riesling (Mo- a swathe of dried herb notes. Vinum Cos. —A.I. now, penetrating and persistent, but will surely de- 88 sel). Punchy and concentrated, this off-dry abv: 7.5% Price: $30 light for decades to come. Palm Bay International. Riesling juxtaposes plush, peachy fruit against a Editors’ Choice. —A.I. backdrop of spine-tingling lemon acidity. Its un- abv: 9% Price: $440/375 ml complicated forward style makes it quite quaffable. RIESLING AUSLESE Classical Wines. —A.I. S.A. Prüm 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Ries- abv: 11.5% Price: $17 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 96 ling Erste Lage (Mosel). As 93 2013 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese delicate and spry as a silken mist, this sweet-style Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) (Mosel). Heady notes of saffron and pollen lend a Riesling balances honeyed apricot and peach fla- 88 2014 Riesling Feinherb (Mosel). Luscious savory spicy tone to honey-kissed chamomile and vors against a backdrop of intense minerality and peach and blossom notes perfume this plucky off- white grapefruit flavors in this dazzling auslese. acidity. It darts and dances on the tongue yet pen- dry Riesling. Laced with honey and tart tangerine Shocks of lemon-lime awaken the midpalate, leading etrates deeply, leaving a long lasting impression. It’s acidity, it’s easy, fresh and approachable. Drink to a long crystalline finish. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. approachable now, yet should improve till at least now. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $40 2025. Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice. abv: 11% Price: $14 —A.I. S.A. Prüm 2012 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Ries- abv: 7% Price: $200/375 ml Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2014 Riesling 93 ling Auslese Erste Lage (Mosel). Primary yet 88 (Mosel). A whiff of fresh brioche against deeply complex, this powerful Auslese juxtaposes Thörle 2011 Saulheimer Hölle Riesling a backdrop of sunny grapefruit and plum flavors intense mineral complexities against a bounty of 96 Trockenbeerenauslese­ (Rheinhessen). Waxy makes this forward fruity off-dry Riesling especially luscious white grapefruit, yellow plum and lemon minerals mingle with deep, concentrated tones inviting. While lively and crisp, its juicy, quaffable flavors. Though it feels so lithe in texture, it builds of orange and tangerine in this lusciously sweet style makes it an easy pleaser. Drink now. Vinum in fruit and smoky mineral tones, catapulted by a Riesling. Vibrant and complex, it’s marked by tart Cos. Best Buy. —A.I. brisk line of acidity. It drinks beautifully now, but tangerine acidity that sears through the midpalate. abv: 8.5% Price: $11 should deepen through 2025 and hold even longer. Swathes of saffron and exotic spice soften a long, Palm Bay International. —A.I. lingering finish. While delicious already, its min- Moselland 2013 Jahrgang Riesling (Mosel). abv: 8% Price: $43 erality and composure should only improve from 88 For full review see page 14. Best Buy. 2020-2025. Ingenium Wines. Cellar Selection. abv: 8.5% Price: $13 S.A. Prüm 2014 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling —A.I. 91 Auslese Grosse Lage (Mosel). Ginger and saf- abv: 7% Price: $150 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2014 Off-Dry fron intensify the spicy mineral-toned complexities 87 Riesling (Mosel). Apple blossoms perfume of this gorgeously silky nectar. It’s lusciously fruity Thörle 2011 Saulheimer Hölle Riesling pristine lemon, lime and tangerine in this invigo- as well though, boasting cutting white grapefruit 95 Beerenauslese­ (Rheinhessen). Saffron and rating off-dry Riesling. Vivacious and brisk, it’s and lemon flavors that penetrate through a long, dusty mineral tones seep into notes of marmalade

90 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 uncomplicated yet refreshingly thirst quenching. tatiously sweet-tart composure that’s enticing and lemon-lime acidity. It’s an easygoing, widely appeal- Drink now. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I. gulpable. Ingenium Wines. —A.I. ing dry white at a bargain price. Drink now. Scop- abv: 11% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $29 erta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2014 Noble House Ries- Wöhrle 2014 Lahrer Weissburgunder Trocken 87 ling (Mosel). Tart tangerine and grapefruit 90 (Baden). A squirt of fresh lemon extends notes seem to be glazed with honey in this simple from nose to finish on this bright, vivacious Weiss- yet fresh and easy-quaffing Riesling. It’s off-dry in burgunder, or Pinot Blanc. Dry and medium bodied, style with a brisk, thirst quenching gulpability. En- it’s concentrated in crisp red apple flavor. The finish Thörle 2013 Saulheimer Probstey Silvaner joy now. Winesellers, Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. is refreshing, marked by a touch of bitter tea tan- 91 Trocken (Rheinhessen). Often herbal and a abv: 8.5% Price: $12 nins. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. bit green in nature, Silvaner is a much maligned abv: 12.5% Price: $22 grape. Yet at Thörle, it seems to blossom into some- Peter Nicolay 2014 Riesling (Mosel). While thing perfumed and quite fruity, redolent of peaches 87 a touch brambly on the nose, ripe rich tan- Gaul 2013 Pinot Blanc Trocken (Pfalz). A and fresh pears. Characteristic herb notes are fresh gerine and yellow plum flavors take the spotlight in 88 touch of smoky minerality lends intrigue to and nuanced, highlighted against brisk citrus and this sunny off-dry Riesling. It’s plush on the palate this otherwise peachy-keen dry Pinot Blanc. It’s pri- apple flavors and a silken supple mouthfeel. Inge- but pleasant, accessible and forward. Drink now. mary and fruity with a rich full-bodied palate, but nium Wines. —A.I. Vinum Cos. —A.I. wraps up tight and crisp on the finish. Drink now. abv: 13.5% Price: $39 abv: 8.5% Price: $16 HPS Epicurian. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25 Thörle 2013 Saulheimer Kalkstein Silvaner Peter Nicolay 2014 Erdener Treppchen Off- 90 Trocken (Rheinhessen). More mineral, per- 87 Dry Riesling (Mosel). Notes dusty mineral Thörle 2013 Weissburgunder Trocken (Rhe- haps even crystalline, in style compared to Thörle’s permeate through this zesty, lime-scented Riesling. 88 inhessen). Sunny yellow peaches, apples Saulheimer Probstey Silvaner, this elegant bottling A touch of honey and tangerine lends brightness to and nuts perfume this bright lemon-fresh Weiss- showcases pristine grapefruit and tangerine flavors. the off-dry palate. Light-footed and spry, it finish- burgunder, or Pinot Blanc. A whisper of herbs lends It’s full bodied yet silky, uplifted by a swathe of es moderately long with a murmur of tea tannins. savoriness to crisp apple, pear and citrus flavors on freshly cut grass and mint that lingers long on the Drink now. Vinum Cos. —A.I. the palate. It’s a straightforward yet refreshing and finish. Ingenium Wines. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $20 elegant wine. Ingenium Wines. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $27 abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Schmitt Söhne 2014 Relax Riesling (Mosel). Dr. Heyden 2014 Alte Reben Silvaner Trock- 87 Freshly snipped thyme and bramble notes 89 en (Rheinhessen). White peach and apple are prominent, yet unobtrusive against a backdrop PINOT GRIS blossoms perfume this dancingly brisk Silvaner. of honey-kissed lemon and lime in this brisk off-dry Crisp nectarine and lime penetrate the palate, along Riesling. It’s a zesty sprightly wine to drink young. Binz 2014 Nackenheimer Pinot Gris Kabinett with a refreshing sheen of minerality that extends Schmitt-Söhne USA. Best Buy. —A.I. 89 Trocken (Rheinhessen). A chalky slightly the finish. Winesellers, Ltd.Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $10 saline minerality extends through this lemony fresh abv: 12.5% Price: $13 wine, accenting plush fruity flavors of apple, peach and pear. It’s silky on the palate and refreshing in PINOT BLANC composure, ideal for elegant and casual entertain- GEWÜRZTRAMINER ing. Winesellers, Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. Fitz-Ritter 2014 Wachenheim Pinot Blanc abv: 12% Price: $14 Sun Garden 2014 Gewürztraminer (Pfalz). 90 Trocken (Pfalz). While dry in style and 87 Dried orange rind and citrus blossoms per- crisply balanced, plump white peaches and apricots Franz Keller 2014 Schwarzer Adler Pinot Gris fume this dry yet honey-touched Gewürztraminer. shine brightly in this silky Pinot Blanc. It’s rich and 89 (Baden). Delicate aromas of crisp green Concentrated grapefruit flavor lends surprising round with a slightly clingy mouthfeel but not at all apples, pear and white peach abound on this lean intensity on the palate, all the more enjoyable for cloying or dense. Enjoy now through 2020. Wine- but concentrated Pinot Gris. Dry and spry, the pal- an extreme value price. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. sellers, Ltd. —A.I. ate is honed on minerality and refreshment. Enjoy Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 now for its vitality and youth. Schmitt-Söhne USA. abv: 11% Price: $11 —A.I. Franz Keller 2014 Schwarzer Adler Pinot abv: 12% Price: $25 G&M Machmer 2013 Bechtheimer Gewürz- 90 Blanc (Baden). Pristine white peaches 89 traminer Spätlese (Rheinhessen). Lychee seem suspended in a crystalline solution of river Thörle 2013 Grauburgunder Trocken (Rhein- and honeysuckle notes are concentrated and pure rocks and mineral water in this refreshing dry Pi- 89 hessen). Fresh pineapple, peach and blos- in this bright off-dry Gewürztraminer. It’s elegantly not Blanc. It’s delicate in stature but abounds in som notes contrast spicy dashes of saffron, fennel structured, lifted by zesty tangerine acidity and elegance. Drink now through 2020. Schmitt-Söhne and pollen throughout this Grauburgunder, or Pinot hints of dusty pollen and mineral that linger on the USA. —A.I. Gris. Cutting lemon-lime notes lend a razor’s edge finish. Drink now. Winesellers, Ltd.Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 to palate that’s supple and rich. It’s an elegantly abv: 10.5% Price: $13 composed wine with a curious, yet intriguing per- Thörle 2013 Saulheimer Kalkstein Weiss- sonality. Ingenium Wines. —A.I. Von Der Leyen 2013 Gewürztraminer (Pfalz). 90 burgunder Trocken (Rheinhessen). Plump abv: 13% Price: $19 88 Swirls of honeysuckle lend a delicate sweet- yellow plums and white peaches shine sunny and ness to this silky, off-dry Gewürztraminer. It’s hon- bright throughout this rounded rich Weissbur- Lucky Neko 2014 Pinot Grigio (Rheinhessen). eyed and plush in peach and apricot flavor, but zesty gunder, or Pinot Blanc. It’s forward and luscious on 87 Whimsically feline packaging aside, this lime acidity lends a stately appeal. Drink now. Scop- the palate, yet crisply balanced, maintaining a flir- fruity and forward Pinot Grigio does a good job bal- erta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. ancing bright luscious stone fruit against refreshing abv: 11.5% Price: $11

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Fitz-Ritter 2014 Gewürztraminer Spätlese Blümel 2013 Pinot Meunier Rosé (Rheinhes- 87 (Pfalz). This off-dry Gewürztraminer opens SPARKLING WINES 85 sen). Candied slightly cooked strawberry with a powerful bouquet of bergamot, violet and and cherry notes permeate through this ripe ruddy rose perfume that seeps into the palate. The aro- HPSepicurean NV Cremant Brut Riesling off-dry rosé. Made from Pinot Meunier, it finishes matics are a bit overwhelming, but bright tangerine 90 (Mosel). Enticing notes of brioche and bak- with a whisper of dried savory thyme and lavender flavors stand up well. It’s a light-footed wine that er’s yeast waft from this brut-style Riesling Sekt. notes. Drink now. Snarky & Spirited LLC. —A.I. finishes briskly. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. It’s perfumed and floral, yet elegantly composed, abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 9.5% Price: $23 drenching the palate in waves of fresh grapefruit and lime. Piercing and pristine, it finishes with G&M Machmer 2014 Bechtheimer Gewürz- crystalline precision. HPS Epicurian. —A.I. PINOT NOIR 87 traminer Spätlese (Rheinhessen). Whiffs of abv: 12.5% Price: $36 smoke and crushed minerals lend a savory tone to Thörle 2012 Saulheimer Hölle Spätbur- bright honey and tangerine flavors in this unusually Dr. Nägler NV Riesling Sekt Extra Trocken 94 gunder Trocken (Rheinhessen). Shades of styled Gewürztraminer. It’s not varietally classic, 89 (Rheingau). Racy and tight, this exuberant cedar, dried herb and bramble lend complexity to but refreshingly brisk in acidity and quite quaffable. Riesling sekt juxtaposes fresh lemon and blossom this intensely concentrated Spätburgunder. Rich Drink now. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. notes against a piercing backbone of acidity. Tiny, black cherry and berry flavors flood the palate, -ac abv: 10.5% Price: $13 persistent bubbles and delicate foam wrap up brisk- cented by staccato drumbeats of acid and fine bit- ly on the finish. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. ter tannin. It’s a powerful wine that needs time to Leonard Kreusch 2014 Estate Gewürztra- abv: 12.5% Price: $24 smooth and meld, but should drink beautifully from 86 miner (Rheinhessen). While intense aromas 2018 to 2025. Ingenium Wines. Cellar Selection. of mango, honey and blossom are appealing, this Von Schleinitz 2012 HD Riesling (Mosel). —A.I. unusually structured Gewürztraminer seems at the 87 Stony and mineral on the nose, this brut- abv: 13.5% Price: $64 same time quite tart and caramelized. It’s lithe and style sparkling Riesling revitalizes the palate with a lean with moderate concentration of peach and tan- fine persistent perlage. Flavors of tart green apple, Franz Keller 2013 Schwarzer Adler Franz An- gerine flavors. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. lemon and pear are zesty and spry. It’s a straight- 93 ton Pinot Noir (Baden). Rich succulent black abv: 11% Price: $15 forward but four-square sparkler at a value price. cherry and berry notes mingle with swathes of ripe Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —A.I. bramble and dried sage in this bold full-bodied abv: 10% Price: $16 Pinot Noir. Unabashedly luscious and fringed by a ELBLING feathery fray of tannins, its forward but refined na- Von Schleinitz 2014 Kon-Secco Riesling (Mo- ture is appealing now. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I. Frieden-Berg 2014 Elbling Feinherb (Mosel). 86 sel). Delicate effervescence and blossomy abv: 13% Price: $42 89 Fresh apple, pear and lemon flavors have a perfume mark this brut-style Riesling modeled after crystalline edge in this just-off-dry example of El- Italian Prosecco. It’s an apt comparison, actually, with Thörle 2012 Saulheimer Kalkstein Spätbur- bling, an unusual white variety grown in the Mosel. its subtle sweetness and forward floral style. Fun and 93 gunder Trocken (Rheinhessen). Luscious It’s zesty and spry, finishing with a delicious mur- flighty on the palate, it’s an easy-to-drink quaffer at ripples of blackberry and plum contrast savory mur of lime-pith bitterness. Drink now. Winesell- an easy price. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —A.I. swathes of herb and bramble throughout this richly ers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $16 textured Spätburgunder. While full bodied and abv: 11.5% Price: $16 densely concentrated, it’s balanced elegantly by a strike of cranberry acidity and fine-grained tannins. Frieden-Berg 2014 Nitteler Leiterchen Novum ROSÉS Drinks well now but structured enough to improve 87 Elbling (Mosel). Herbaceous, lemony and a through 2020. Ingenium Wines. —A.I. touch green, this brisk light-bodied wine is made Franz Keller 2014 Schwarzer Adler Rosé abv: 13.5% Price: $29 from Elbling, one of the Mosel’s little-known other 88 (Baden). While delicate and demure, this grapes. Dry on the palate, it’s moderately concen- light-bodied Pinot Noir rosé revitalizes the palate Thörle 2012 Spätburgunder Trocken (Rhe- trated with flavors of freshly-pressed apples and with a crush of mineral intensity. Whispers of blos- 92 inhessen). Amidst a stunning line up of pear. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. som and strawberry peek through a moderately long 2012 Spätburgunder, even Thörle’s ready-to-drink, abv: 11.5% Price: $16 finish. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I. entry-level bottling offers remarkable elegance and abv: 11.5% Price: $25 power. The palate is succulent and ripe, bursting of black cherry and plum flavors. Nuanced tones of OTHER WHITE WINE HPSepicurean 2013 Rosé (Mosel). Flirty and herb and smoky mineral lend depth and complex- 87 floral, this sunny off-dry Pinot Noir rosé ity. It’s an approachable yet very sophisticated wine. Carl Ehrhard 2014 Blanc de Noirs Rüdesheim (blended with a touch of ) offers forward Ingenium Wines. —A.I. 87 Spätburgunder Trocken (Rheingau). Blos- fruitiness in an elegant frame. With a kiss of straw- abv: 12.5% Price: $19 somy and perfumed, this white wine made from berry and cherry flavors, it’s an accessible, yet sat- red Pinot Noir grapes exudes much of the variety’s isfying quaffer. HPS Epicurian. —A.I. Wöhrle 2013 BF Lahrer Spätburgunder Trock- smoky floral flair against the backdrop of a crisp, abv: 11.5% Price: $23 92 en (Baden). Perfumed notes of plum and refreshing white wine. The palate is concentrated cherry blossoms abound on this silky, supple wine. in pressed apple and pear notes that finish briskly. Gaul 2013 Rosé (Pfalz). Touches of bramble It’s ripe and full bodied, clinging lusciously on the Drink now. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —A.I. 86 and smoke meander curiously amid sweet palate, yet balanced by a revitalizing spray of acid- abv: 11% Price: $16 strawberry and cherry in this off-dry rosé. While a ity and minerality. It’s an approachable yet refined bit candied on the palate, it’s a juicy approachable Pinot Noir that’s ready to drink now. Winesellers, wine for casual imbibing. HPS Epicurian. —A.I. Ltd. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $32

92 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Wöhrle 2013 Kirchgasse Lahrer Spätbur- finishes suprisingly long with a murmur of feathery on, roasted fennel and a touch of mint. It is slightly 92 gunder GG Trocken (Baden). Perfumed notes tannin. Drink now. Schmitt-Söhne USA. Best Buy. waxy in the mouth and cooling herbs remain on the of tart morello cherry and cassis permeate through- —A.I. palate until the bright finish. Kosher. Royal Wine out this lively rousing Spätburgunder. It’s buoyant abv: 11.5% Price: $13 Corporation. —M.D. and primary in red fruit, yet tinged by complex in- abv: 13% Price: $18 tertwining layers of fine, bitter tannin, smoke and P.J. Valckenberg 2012 Undone Pinot Noir savory nuts. It’s a powerful wine that calls for cel- 86 (Rheinhessen). Lusciously jammy notes of 1848 Winery 2012 Fifth Generation Chardon- laring, but should drink beautifully from 2020 until preserved black cherry and raspberry are forward 88 nay (Judean Hills). This easy-drinking wine 2025. Winesellers, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —A.I. and friendly in this simple yet consistent Pinot has a bouquet of honeydew melon and lime juice. abv: 13% Price: $62 Noir. It’s briskly balanced in acidity and wraps up Flavors of lemon, tangerine, guava and white peach neatly on the finish. Drink now. Valckenberg Inter- with a soft hint of baking spice continue into the Wöhrle 2013 SC Lahrer Kronenbühl Spät- national, Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. finish, which is marked by flavors of stone fruits and 92 burgunder Trocken (Baden). Savory smoke abv: 12% Price: $11 nutmeg. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. and nut tones contrast richly with extracted black abv: 14% Price: $25 cherry and berry flavors in this full-bodied Spät- burgunder. While fine-grained tannins and a shock OTHER RED WINES Barkan 2014 Classic Chardonnay (Dan). of cranberry acidity lend balance and grace, shades 88 Light straw in the glass, this wine has aro- of toast and spice are still quite prominent. It’s a Gaul 2012 Dornfelder Trocken (Pfalz). While mas of pineapple and lemon zest. Refreshing on the powerful wine that should benefit well from cel- 89 bright cherry and berry aromatics take a bit palate, it offers flavors of clementine, lemon, orange laring until at least 2020. Winesellers, Ltd. Cellar of aeration and coaxing to flourish, this four-square rind, and honeysuckle. The finish features a lasting Selection. —A.I. wine calibrates juicy primary red fruit with cool sense of brightness. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora- abv: 13% Price: $40 touches of menthol and cranberry acidity. It’s ap- tion. Best Buy. —M.D. proachably fruity and framed in soft delicate tan- abv: 13% Price: $12 Franz Keller 2013 Schwarzer Adler Pinot Noir nins. Drink now. HPS Epicurian. —A.I. 91 (Baden). Fresh cherry blossoms and cranber- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Tabor 2014 Mt. Tabor Chardonnay (Galilee). ries breathe zest into luscious notes of preserved 87 This wine has aromas of lemongrass and black cherry, sweet beets and earth in this ruddy, Grafen Neipperg 2012 Lemberger Trocken apricot with a touch of petrol. It offers flavors of ripe and yet complex Pinot Noir. Dense on the palate 88 (Württemberg). While dry in style, sump- peach, apricot, vanilla and jasmine. It is very soft in and framed in baby-soft tannins, it’s enjoyable now. tuous black cherry and cassis notes lend a plummy the mouth, and the bright finish is marked by floral Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I. feel to this Lemberger. It’s an uncomplicated wel- notes. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13% Price: $25 coming wine that’s a bit plush in mouthfeel but in- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 vigorated by bright cranberry acidity on the finish. Dr. Nägler 2014 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir Drink now. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. Pelter 2013 Matar Chardonnay (Galilee). 90 Trocken (Rheingau). Silky succulent rasp- abv: 13% Price: $25 86 Tropical fruit aromas of mango and guava berry and cherry flavors are a luscious counterpoint prepare the palate for flavors of lemon-lime sorbet to the razor’s edge of acidity that frames this impec- Gaul 2012 Sausenheimer Höllenpfad St. with notes of freesia. There is a nice vein of mineral- cably balanced wine. It’s ripe, fruity and forward, 87 Laurent Trocken (Pfalz). Seductive trails ity that offers a faint sensation of chalkiness on the yet offers surprising elegance and length. Drink now of smoke, cinnamon and char on the nose lead to gums. Softly lingering tannins recede into a crisp through 2017. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. a palate that’s ruddy and rich in black cherry and finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13% Price: $18 plum flavors. Supple and plush, it spreads languidly abv: 13.4% Price: $38 on the palate, finishing with nuanced touches of Wittmann 2012 Rotwein Spätburgunder smoked meat and game. HPS Epicurian. —A.I. 90 Trocken (Rheinhessen). Long extended abv: 13.5% Price: $43 CABERNET SAUVIGNON veins of bramble and dried herb lend depth to this intensely concentrated Spätburgunder. Youthful Psagot 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Judean and primary, the palate bursts of rich black cherry ISRAEL 92 Hills). This wine has a bouquet of raspber- and berry, but soft tannins and brisk acidity invigo- ry, bell pepper, ground black pepper and a whiff of rate the finish. It’s luscious and forward yet refined. CHARDONNAY petrol. It fills the entire mouth with flavors of rasp- Drink now through 2020. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. berry, cherry, rose petal, caramel, and flint. Offering abv: 13% Price: $34 Domaine du Castel 2013 C Chardonnay a touch of salinity, to appeals to the entire palate, 90 (Judean ­ Hills). This wine offers a bouquet peaking with a grippy finish marked by smoke- Schäfer 2014 Mettenheimer Pinot Noir (Rhe- of baking bread with a touch of lemon curd. It pres- tinged fruit flavors. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora- 89 inhessen). Ripe red cherry and raspberry ents a sophisticated palate of lemon, lime, orange tion. —M.D. penetrate deeply throughout this sunny, yet briskly blossom, piecrust, and eucalyptus. It has pleasing abv: 14.4% Price: $30 composed Pinot Noir. It’s approachable and uncom- acidity that overcomes cooling herb flavors on the plicated in style, but pristine juicy flavors make it finish, and while it is light in the mouth, soft tan- 1848 Winery 2012 Second Generation Caber- quite quaffable. Drink now. Winesellers, Ltd.Best nins persist on the gum line for a short while af- 91 net Sauvignon (Judean Hills). Inky red violet Buy. —A.I. ter swallowing. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. in the glass, this wine features aromas of raspber- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 —M.D. ry, vanilla and violet. Ever-present tannins form abv: 14% Price: $50 a backdrop for flavors of blackberry, ripe summer Thomas Schmitt 2014 Private Collection Pi- cherry, vanilla and black pepper that are heightened 89 not Noir (Rheinhessen). Brisk and bright, Segal’s 2013 Special Reserve Chardonnay by opulent floral notes. The finish offers a pleasing this delicately framed Pinot Noir offers both el- 89 (Galilee). This wine has a nose of pineapple amalgam of rose petal and cherry pie. Kosher. Royal egance and thirst-quenching quaffability. It’s fresh and roasted fennel bulb. There is a nice balance of Wine Corporation. —M.D. and primary, bursting of raspberry and blossom, but fruit and cool herb flavors, in particular guava, lem- abv: 13.9% Price: $25

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Bazelet HaGolan 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon this wine has a bouquet of blackberry, lilac and pen- the palate for flavors of blackberry, black cherry, 91 (Golan Heights). Restrained aromas of black cil lead with a whiff of iodine. A network of velvety roasted meat, sage, and bell pepper. There is a nice plum barely set the stage for flavors of dark plum, tannins and a vein of bold acidity are equally weight- combination of fruit and savory flavors, and the cherry-vanilla, mint eucalyptus and ground black ed, wrapped around flavors of blackberry, blueberry, persistent finish offers lingering notes of fruits of pepper. Fruit flavors are soft, but the minty notes black pepper, rose petal and Mediterranean herbs, the wood and roasted meat. Mevushal. Kosher. Roy- never overpower brightness and acidity. Tannins with bright fruit persisting into the pleasing finish. al Wine Corporation. —M.D. are just shy of opulent, and the finish is marked by Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14.4% Price: $40 a note of tart apple crispness. Kosher. Royal Wine abv: 15.2% Price: $40 Corporation. —M.D. Barkan 2009 Altitude 412 Cabernet Sau- abv: 16% Price: $40 Tabor 2013 Mt. Tabor Cabernet Sauvignon 87 vignon (Galil). Faded black cherry in the 90 (Galilee). Dark garnet in the glass, this glass, this wine offers an aroma of pomegranate and Binyamina 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon wine has a nose of strawberry, black plum, caramel brambles. Flavors of tart cranberry, green pepper 91 (Upper Galilee). Dark red violet in color, this and smoked meat. It offers a good balance of acid- and eucalyptus are pleasant enough, but this wine wine has aromas of cherry, lavender and rose pet- ity and tannins, with flavors of blackberry, blueberry, is a bit past its prime. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora- al. It is a well-balanced wine with flavors of black smoked meat, vanilla and mocha. The vanilla flavor is tion. —M.D. cherry, raspberry, and herbes de extended on the palate thanks to lingering silky tan- abv: 14% Price: $45 Provence. Silky tannins coat the palate into the last- nins that eventually dissolve in a note of orange zest. ing finish, which is punctuated by a note of bright Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. Best Buy. —M.D. Titora 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon cherry. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14% Price: $15 86 (Judean Hills). The color of slightly faded abv: 14% Price: $25 garnet, this wine has a bouquet of cassis and green Yatir 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Judean pepper. Chalky tannins create a backdrop for flavors Carmel 2011 Kayoumi Single Vineyard Cab- 90 Hills). Dark black cherry in color, this wine of tart cherry, lingonberry, bell pepper and petrol 90 ernet Sauvignon (Galilee). A nose of wild offers a bouquet of cherry preserves, matchstick that make promises to the taste buds but fall short blackberry and brambles lays the groundwork for a and petrol. It is far livelier on the palate than on the of delivering. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. tender dance of fruit and herbal flavors, especially nose, featuring flavors of cherry, pomegranate and —M.D. blackberry, pomegranate, eucalyptus and fennel bell pepper with a light touch of florality. Chewy abv: 13.5% Price: $40 bulb. Mouth-coating tannins dissipate on the fin- tannins make their way across the gum and tongues ish, joined by a burst of tart pomegranate. Kosher. and are all but erased by a final note of orange zest Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. and cranberry. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. SHIRAZ abv: 14.5% Price: $40 —M.D. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 Pelter 2013 Matar Stratus Shiraz (Galilee). Flam 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 91 This wine has a bouquet of black currant, 90 (Galilee). Aromas of black currant, orange Barkan 2013 Classic Cabernet Sauvignon cassis and juniper berry. There is a very pleasant zest and lemon thyme set the scene for a three-way 89 (Galil). Aromas of black cherry, smoked balance of fruit and cool herbal flavors, with an em- balancing act of fruit, savory and cool flavors. On meat and thyme prepare the taste buds for flavors phasis on black cherry, peach, anise and eucalyptus. the palate, notes of black cherry, lingonberry, eu- of black cherry, smoked meat, oregano, and lemon The sense of coolness that persists on the palate is calyptus, mint and thyme stand out, and gentle zest with notes of dark chocolate. Soft yet persistent slightly overshadowed by a flash of brightness on tannins ride on through a cherry and mint finish. tannins coat the palate, culminating in a delight- the finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. fully bright finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. abv: 15.4% Price: $32 abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Best Buy. —M.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Tabor 2013 Mt. Tabor Shiraz (Galilee). Inky Or Haganuz 2011 Namura Single Vineyard 90 violet-red in the glass, this wine has a fruit- 90 Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Gali- Barkan 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon forward nose of black cherry and strawberry. There lee). This wine has a bouquet of cassis, violet and 89 (Galil). This wine offers a tight nose of cher- is a good balance of acidity and tannins amidst fla- black pepper. Well-integrated flavors of cassis, ry cola and petrol. It opens on the palate by featur- vors of black cherry, raspberry, caramel and orange strawberry preserves, anise, fennel bulb and laven- ing flavors of smoked meat, eucalyptus, cherry, and zest. The perception of light spice remains on the der are set amid silky tannins that feel as if they ripe peach. Lush tannins contribute a fatty umami tongue after the gentle finish. Kosher. Royal Wine may go on forever but are surpassed at the finish sensation to the palate. Royal Wine Corporation. Corporation. Best Buy. —M.D. when fruit flavors pull out all the stops. Kosher. —M.D. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $52 Tabor 2012 Adama Shiraz (Galilee). Deep Barkan 2011 Superieur Cabernet Sauvignon 90 garnet to the eye, this wine has a nose of Segal’s 2012 Special Reserve Cabernet Sau- 89 (Galilee). Dark garnet in the glass, this wine strawberry and tart cherry with a hint of resin. Fla- 90 vignon (Galilee). This wine is dark red-vi- features aromas of black cherry, candle wax and vors of cherry, pomegranate, eucalyptus, anise and olet color to the eye, offering aromas of blackberry, freshly picked oregano. Soft tannins offer a founda- a soft touch of leather are suspended in a web of roasted red pepper and juniper berry. It is very tion for flavors of cherry, cassis, mint, espresso bean well-moderated tannins. Expect a lasting sense of smooth on the palate, with flavors of black plum, and Mediterranean herbs. Fruit and savory notes coolness with a burst of brightness on the finish. blackberry, white peach, elderberry and violet. continually make way for one another on the pal- Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. There is a slightly dominant eucalyptus flavor that ate, concluding in an herbal and lemon zest finish. abv: 14.3% Price: $22 backs off at the finish, replaced by a fresh cherry Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. juice flavor. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $65 Tulip Winery 2011 Reserve Syrah (Galilee). abv: 13.5% Price: $20 90 Aromas of wild raspberry, smoked meat Psagot 2012 M-Series Cabernet Sauvignon and oregano lay the groundwork for flavors of rasp- Shiloh Winery 2012 Secret Reserve Cabernet 89 (Jerusalem Hills). Aromas of black cherry berry, black cherry, thyme, rosemary and smoked 90 Sauvignon (Judean Hills). A red-violet color, and a hint of height-of-summer farmstead prep meat. There is an interesting yet sophisticated array

94 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 of fruit and herbal flavors, and the burst of orange prominent through the smooth finish. Kosher. Royal of black currant, flint and bell pepper. A restrained zest on the finish complements the soft but ever- Wine Corporation. —M.D. tannic structure supports flavors of blackberry, present tannins. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 damson plum, elderberry, violet and espresso with —M.D. an added touch of bramble. The finish is marked by abv: 15% Price: $48 Or Haganuz 2012 Elima Cabernet Franc- a note of fresh summer plum. Kosher. Royal Wine 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). Offering aro- Corporation. —M.D. Flam 2012 Reserve Syrah (Galilee). A bou- mas of black cherry and green pepper with a whiff abv: 14.5% Price: $40 89 quet of blackberry, black plum, anise and of matchstick, this wine has flavors of black cherry, white chocolate sets the scene for flavors of black raspberry, smoked meat, mace and green tea. There Psagot 2012 M-Series Edom (Jerusalem plum, strawberry, cocoa powder and licorice with is a good yin and yang of fruit and savory flavors, 88 Hills). Black cherry to the eye, this wine a burst of pomegranate. This wine is soft on entry, while chewy tannins wane at the first sign of orange holds back on the nose, offering restrained aromas with a nice interplay of tannins and acidity that zest on the bright finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpo- of black currant and roasted yellow pepper. Fla- persists into the subdued finish. Kosher. Royal Wine ration. —M.D. vors include raspberry, blueberry, violet, lavender, Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14% Price: $38 thyme and roasted meat. It has lightly grippy tan- abv: 14% Price: $50 nins and there is a distinct note of Dr. Pepper on The Cave 2011 Red (Galilee). A blend of 70% the finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. 90 Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot and 4% abv: 14.3% Price: $40 RED BLENDS Petit Verdot, this wine offers a bouquet that is equal parts black plum and green pepper. Fruit holds sway Pelter 2012 Matar Cumulus (Galilee). This Domaine du Castel 2012 Grand Vin (Judean over chalky tannins, with flavors of black cherry 87 wine has a fruity nose of cherry and straw- 93 Hills). Inky ruby in the glass, this Bordeaux- and raspberry that are joined by chocolate covered berry with a hint of watermelon. It opens on the style blend has aromas of caramel and anise that espresso bean and green pepper notes. Kosher. Roy- tongue with bright flavors of strawberry and wa- all but hide a whiff of cherry. On the tastebuds al Wine Corporation. —M.D. termelon that are joined by mint and eucalyptus. black cherry is the predominant flavor, backed by abv: 14% Price: $85 Overall it is a pleasant wine, but the fruit and herb a mouth-pleasing chorus of allspice, violet, custard flavors don’t quite add up. Royal Wine Corporation. and mint. Grippy tannins coat the mouth yet touch- Tulip Winery 2013 Espero (Galilee). This —M.D. es of fruit remain strong on the post-palate. Kosher. 90 wine features a bouquet of cherry, pome- abv: 15.4% Price: $36 Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. granate and freshly ground black pepper. It is well- abv: 15% Price: $80 balanced on the palate with flavors of pomegranate, Tabor 2012 Thunder Adama II (Galilee). A strawberry, mace and anise. Smooth tannins are 86 blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Cabernet Domaine Netofa 2012 Syrah-Mourvèdre (Gali- present into the bright yet lasting finish. Kosher. Sauvignon, this wine has a restrained nose of cran- 91 lee). This wine has a nose of lingonberry, ju- Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. berry and toast. It has flavors of cherry, blueberry niper berry and toffee. It is round in the mouth, with abv: 14.5% Price: $40 and toasted bread with a tart note of cranberry. It flavors of black cherry, red plum, cranberry, spear- is easy drinking but falls flat on the finish. Kosher. mint, and caramelized sugar. An element of toffee 1848 Winery 2012 Second Generation Caber- Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. fills the palate as fruit flavors recede on the silky 89 net Sauvignon-Merlot (Judean Hills). A bou- abv: 14% Price: $30 finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. quet of raspberry, Mediterranean herbs and black abv: 13.5% Price: $26 pepper pave the way for flavors of blackberry, dark plum, anise and tarragon. Lasting tannins impart a Binyamina 2012 Yogev Cabernet Sauvignon- light sense of chalkiness on the tongue that dissi- 90 Merlot (Samson). Dark ruby in the glass, pates in a burst of fruit on the bright cherry finish. this wine has a nose of lingonberry and pomegran- Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. ate with a hint of pine needles. It offers well-inte- abv: 13.9% Price: $25 grated fruit and cooling herb flavors, notably blue- berry, cherry, mint, tarragon, and fennel. Ultimately 1848 Winery 2010 Special Reserve (Gali- fruit reigns over coolness on the velvety finish. Ko- 89 lee). A tight nose of blackberry and mint sher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. smooths the way for flavors of blackberry and pencil abv: 14% Price: $16 lead with a light dose of mint. There is a nice bal- ance of acidity and tannins, with fruit lingering on Binyamina 2012 Yogev Cabernet Sauvignon- the palate after the soft finish. Kosher. Royal Wine 90 Shiraz (Samson). A bright fruity nose of Corporation. —M.D. tart cherry and cranberry yields to surprisingly so- abv: 14.2% Price: $45 phisticated flavors of ripe black cherry, blackberry, coffee and white chocolate. Mouth-coating tannins Or Haganuz 2012 French Blend (Galilee). are at play on the palate, culminating in a finish 89 This wine offers a bouquet of raspberry and marked by a lingering sense of zestiness. Kosher. smoked meat with a touch of bell pepper. Flavors Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. of black cherry, smoked meat, black pepper and abv: 14.5% Price: $16 eucalyptus mingle on the palate, with savory notes outweighing fruit. Soft tannins coat the mouth, and Domaine du Castel 2012 Petit Castel (Judean ultimately black cherry lingers on the back palate. 90 Hills). This wine offers aromas of raspberry Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. and toffee. There is a nice interplay of fruit, floral, abv: 14% Price: $28 and minty flavors, notably raspberry, cherry, toffee, rose petal and eucalyptus. Mildly gripping tannins Psagot 2012 Edom (Judean Hills). Deep make themselves evident, and fruit flavors remain 89 ruby in the glass, this wine has a bouquet

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Bols Crème de Cacao Liqueur (The Nether- 90 lands; Lucas Bols USA, New York, NY). This clear spirit has a mild cocoa scent and sweet, mo- cha-like flavor with a surprising flick of espress on the finish. Relatively thick and viscous, this liqueur SPIRITS is recommended for mixing rather than sipping. Treats, No Tricks: Chocolate Liqueurs Best Buy. abv: 25% Price: $12/1 L ust in time for Valentine’s Day, we pres- particular, Tempus Fugit’s delicious crème de Cour di Cioccolata (Italy; Cora Imports, Coun- ent a selection of sweet treats: chocolate cacao is used to add sweetness and depth to 88 tyside, IL). Described as a “chocolate grap- liqueurs. Ranging from traditional crème the Mulata Daiquri, a variation on the popu- pa,” this liquid is thick and opaque brown in the de cacao to a creamy cocoa-and-hazelnut lar standard rarely found in America but com- glass, with an oily sheen on top. The aroma is both Jnumber that sips like liquid Nutella, to a fiery mon in Cuba, the authors say. Made with 1½ chocolaty and boozy; on the palate, it’s thick and tongue-coating at first, with a pleasing, not-too- chile pepper-spiked bottling, there’s a flavor ounces aged rum, ¾ ounce each Tempus Fugit sweet cocoa powder quality, but the grappa shows profile to fit every taste—not unlike finding your crème de cacao and lime juice and a barspoon up on the palate-cleansing finish. Packaged with ideal bonbon within a box of Val- of cane syrup, then shaken with two sleeves of ice cream cone-like wafers tucked in- entine’s Day chocolates. ice and strained into a chilled side the box. Made in Trentino, Italy. It may be tempting to skip There’s a flavor coupe glass, the drink balances abv: 17% Price: $25/375 ml dessert altogether in favor of one profile to fit every perfectly sweet and tart notes. of these liqueurs—and there’s taste—not unlike You’d barely know chocolate- OTHER LIQUEURS plenty to recommend these cor- finding your ideal spiked liqueur was part of the dials as digestifs. However, bar- equation, yet it adds delicious Belle de Brillet Pear Liqueur (France; Ko- tenders also are using these bonbon within a complexity. 96 brand Corp, New York, NY). This Cognac- based liqueur incorporates 20 pounds of pears in bottlings to sweeten or flavor Of course, if chocolate isn’t box of Valentine’s each 750-ml bottle, yielding a rich golden hue and cocktails that are meant to be Day chocolates. your thing, a number of non- bold fresh-pear scent. As a digestif-worthy sipper, enjoyed at any point—not just as chocolate liqueurs also are re- look for a balanced honey and vanilla flavor profile, after-dinner treats. viewed below, from luscious with a suggestion of pear on the finish. Ideal for For example, chocolate plays particular- brandied pear to a pecan-and-spice number cocktails, baking or sipping straight. abv: 30% Price: $46 ly well with the rich brown sugar notes of aged that smells remarkably like pecan pie in a glass. rum, which may be why crème de cacao makes This may be the year to gift one of these Licor 43 (Spain; WJ Deutsch, White Plains, multiple appearances in Cuban Cocktails, a new decadent bottlings to your sweet-toothed 93 NY). For full review see page 15. book from bartender Jane Danger and owner sweetheart. abv: 31% Price: $26 Ravi DeRossi of New York bar Cienfuegos. In —Kara Newman Saliza Amaretto (Italy; Niche Import Co., Ce- 92 dar Knolls, NJ). Distilled from almonds, not just flavored, this tawny liqueur offers bold, sweet almond and marzipan flavors without becoming too Faretti Decadent Biscotti Chocolate (Italy; dark chocolate note—it doesn’t really read as choco- heavy or cloying, braced up by a sprinkle of cinna- 97 Chatham Imports, New York, NY). For full re- laty; it reads more like a tequila espresso-tini. mon on the finish. Ideal as a dessert pairing, or for view see page 15. abv: 30% Price: $25 use in sweetening cocktails or baked goods. abv: 28% Price: $27 abv: 28% Price: $30 Bottega Gianduia Liqueur (Italy; Palm Bay Tempus Fugit Spirits Creme de Cacao a la 91 International, Boca Raton, FL). Resembling Ancho Reyes Ancho Chile Liqueur (Mexico; Wil- 95 Vanilla (Switzerland; Anchor Distilling, San chocolate milk in the glass, this decadent, dessert- 91 liam Grant & Sons, New York, NY). Though it’s Francisco, CA). Made with Venezuelan cacao and like sipper melts like a chocolate truffle, coating the made with ancho chiles, this liqueur is modest on Mexican vanilla, this complex take on a staple li- tongue and palate with creamy, milky, rich hazelnut the spice scale. Caramel-y brown in the glass, look queur is ruddy in the glass and flavorful with cocoa and cocoa flavors. Chocolate-lovers will enjoy this for a lightly herbaceous aroma similar to root beer powder, almond, vanilla and a touch of hazelnut velvety, luscious treat. and rounded flavors that mix caramel and cocoa richness on the long finish. Viscous and slightly too abv: 17% Price: $25 with raisin and cinnamon heat, with a faint smoki- thick for straight-up sipping, this is a tasty upgrade ness on the finish. Particularly harmonious mixed in for cocktails. Based on a 19th-century recipe. Patron XO Café Incendio (Mexico; Patron Spir- cocktails with brown spirits like whiskey. abv: 24% Price: $33 91 its Company, Las Vegas, NV). Delicious but abv: 40% Price: $33 not for the faint of palate, this deep brown chile- Patron XO Café Dark Cocoa (Mexico; Patron chocolate liqueur has a spicy jalapeno whiff with Marie Brizard Liqueur Pear William (France; 92 Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV). This deep- just a touch of cocoa underneath. The spice ex- 90 The Other Wine & Spirits, Miami, FL). For full brown coffee liqueur made with tequila and Criollo plodes on the palate. Quick-building cayenne and review see page 15. Best Buy. chocolate a sharp agave-jalapeno profile softened by habanero-like heat yield a dark Mexican chocolate abv: 25% Price: $20 espresso and nut-like aromas and flavors. It coats effect overall. Many will find it too spicy for com- the tongue with espresso and a barely perceptible fort, but chile-heads will surely enjoy the burn. abv: 30% Price: $25

96 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 Borducan Orange Liqueur (Italy; Borducan 90 Ltd., Lexington, KY). For full review see page 15. abv: 35% Price: $36/L

Seattle Distilling Coffee Liqueur (USA; Seat- 89 tle Distilling, Vashon, WA). This small-batch liqueur bears more than a passing resemblance to a cup of joe, with its deep brown hue and lightly sweetened coffee scent and flavor, finishing long and medium bodied. Made with a vodka base and The Vashon Island Coffee Roasterie’s Orca Blend, a medium roast that supports Puget Sound whale research. abv: 21% Price: $21

Rivulet Artisan Pecan Liqueur (USA; C88 89 Holdings, Louisville, KY). This amber liqueur features a rich pecan pie scent and a very sweet fla- vor profile that mingles caramel, baking spice and oak, finishing long and sticky. Though made with a brandy base (and pecans), this liqueur almost reads like flavored whiskey. abv: 30% Price: $35

Peligroso Tequila Liqueur Cinnamon (Mex- 88 ico; Peligroso Spirits, San Clemente, CA). Rose-gold in the glass, the dried-fruit characteris- tics of this liqueur suggest mulled wine or amber , showing raisins, dried figs, apple cider and cinnamon, with a touch of cinnamon red-hot candy at the back of the palate. Not too sweet, and warms all the way down. Made with silver tequila infused with natural cinnamon extract. abv: 42% Price: $30

VOV Zabaglione Cream (Italy; 375 Park Ave 87 Spirits, Tampa, FL). Inspired by zabaglione, the custard-like Italian dessert, this liqueur has an appropriately creamy yellow-ivory hue and bold va- nilla aroma. It’s extremely thick on the palate, with an oddly egg-y texture and long vanilla finish that suggests vanilla cream filling or thick egg nog. Made with egg yolks and Sicilian Marsala. abv: 17.8% Price: $28/L

Jose Cuervo Cinge (Mexico; Diageo, New 86 York, NY). Looking for candy-flavored te- quila shots? This clear tequila-based liqueur, in- fused with “cinnamon and natural flavors,” smells like fireball candies, with a ferment-y cooked agave back note that reminds the base is silver tequila. The flavor is reminiscent of candy red hots, but it’s not as sweet as the aroma suggests. abv: 35% Price: $20

Sweet Revenge Liqueur (USA; Independence 85 Spirits Company, Philadelphia, PA). This wild strawberry liqueur is made with a sour mash whiskey base, and features a stunning, lurid pink hue. The aroma and flavor is reminiscent of cherry cough syrup, not wild strawberries. The producers recommend mixing the liqueur with lemonade. abv: 38.5% Price: $20

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Anchor Porter (American Porter; Anchor 94 Brewing, CA). This traditional, balanced porter pours almost black, with a thick, tan-colored head. The nose suggests an attractive, layered mix BEER of dried dark fruits—prunes, figs, raisins—roasted Understanding porter, the perfect winter pour malt, coffee and bittersweet cocoa powder. It’s fla- vorful and creamy, with a lifting note of citrus oil on the close, followed by a dry, bitter chocolate flavor. fter “what’s the difference between an contents of a bottle of stout; the same isn’t as It’s bold and flavorful, yet surprisingly smooth and ale and a lager,” one of the most com- true with porters. easy to drink. mon questions asked about beer is “what But porter’s day has come. Now is the per- abv: 5.6% Price: $12/12 oz 6 pack is the difference between a stout and a fect time to cozy up to the style. porter?”A With such strong similarities between Interpretation and personalization are key. Samuel Smith’s The Famous Taddy Porter (English Porter; Samuel Smith Old Brewery their aromas and flavors as well as their struc- There are traditional offerings, like English or 94 (Tadcaster), United Kingdom). This is a classic, tures and balance, it’s difficult to get a grasp on Baltic porters, and then there are newer styles clean, very drinkable and well-balanced porter. what exactly the difference is being developed by American It pours a dark brown color, with a full tan-col- ored head that lingers nicely. The medium-weight between the two, if any. There are traditional craft brewers with the use of The answer is, there are no additional ingredients (like mouthfeel is tasty and attractive, with ample car- bonation to lift the rich chocolate malt, molasses strict differences. Historically offerings, like English coffee or chocolate) and tech- and raisin characters. Aromas and flavors of roasted and presently the two styles are or Baltic porters, niques (like oak aging). malt, toasted nut, toffee, bitter cocoa and very soft similar in overall profile and and then there Some of the more robust hops carry through to the nutty, smoky finish. abv: 5% Price: $5/550 ml ingredients used. A stout was are newer styles bottlings are perfect candi- considered a stronger version dates for your cellar, mellow- Smuttynose Baltic Porter (American Porter; of a porter or, if you prefer, a being developed ing and evolving into even 94 Smuttynose Brewing Company, NH). A dark, porter was originally perceived by American craft more complex, layered selec- almost jet-black color in the glass, with a thick, as a lighter stout. Porters can brewers. tions of pure enjoyment. Alas- frothy tan-colored head that lingers long, this is a also vary widely, resulting in a kan Brewing’s vintage-dated dense, hearty and flavorful brew. It offers decadent, bitter roasty beer or a sweeter Smoked Porter and Deschutes earthy characteristics of espresso bean, bittersweet chocolate, roasted malt and dark fruits on the nose chocolaty one and everything in between. Brewing’s Black Butte Birthday Reserve are two and palate. The fruity tones are more pronounced on But the strange thing is that most people excellent examples, sure to bring a smile to your the palate after warming, supported by the roasted are comfortable with stouts but not with por- face now and for years to come. malt core and accented by hints of cocoa nib and ters. Stouts are more recognizable, more avail- Perfect for those cold winter nights, these sweet spice. The finish is long and warm, laced with able and, for some reason, more defined. People are all great brews to stock up on today. pleasant hints of sweet smoke and molasses. abv: 9% Price: $9/12 oz 4 pack feel confident in what they can expect from the Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo Smuttynose Robust Porter (American Porter; 93 Smuttynose Brewing Company, NH). This pours a dark brown color, with a strong khaki head that shows excellent retention. Scents of freshly Deschutes Black Butte XXVII 27th Birthday Alaskan Brewing Co. 2015 Smoked Porter roasted malts dominate the aroma, with supporting 96 Reserve (American Porter; Deschutes Brew- 95 (American Porter; Alaskan Brewing Co., AK). notes of chocolate sauce, coffee bean and just a hint ing, OR). Deschutes’s Birthday Reserve is an annual Never one to disappoint, ABC’s annual vintage- of earthy hops. It’s fairly weighty—almost chewy, limited-edition release to watch for. The base is the dated Smoked Porter is always a winner, delicious in fact—with a medium-plus body and soft carbon- brewery’s Butte Porter, brewed with Theo chocolate both upon release but also after years in the cellar. ation that fades well on the dryly textured finish. cocoa nibs, pomegranate molasses and select spices, This 2015 release is still young and bold, with up- Overall, it’s a smooth, balanced and full but not- blended with apricot purée, then partially (50%) front aromas of smoked malt and campfire that are too-heavy brew that’s surprisingly easy to drink. aged six months in Bourbon barrels. It’s powerful grounded by notes of dried black fruits, raisin, to- abv: 6.2% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack and dense, with loads of aromas and flavors of figs, bacco leaf and chocolate. The big, lush palate boasts raisins, dried apricot, chocolate malt, vanilla bean, a smooth and creamy texture, with immensely at- Tallgrass Zombie Monkey Robust Porter lightly-roasted coffee, molasses, woody spice and tractive flavors of malted milk balls, chocolate 91 (American Porter; Tallgrass Brewing Compa- peppery cigar box. Medium bodied, with ample car- syrup, molasses and roasted coffee beans. Hints of ny, KS). The can of this brew immediately draws you bonation to the lush, creamy texture, this boasts a s’mores and hickory-smoked bacon linger sweetly in, with a menacing looking monkey and infectious- warming sensation that lingers long on the earthy, on the close. A hedonistic pleasure to enjoy now, disease-horror movie writing that suggests it’s not a spicy finish. The bottle recommends consumption this will only continue to gain complexity and nu- beer for the faint of heart. Indeed, it is a rich, roasty after July 2016, but given the intense characteris- ance in the years, and even decade, ahead. Cellar selection, boasting upfront aromas of roasted malt, tics, decadent body, plush mouthfeel and endless Selection. coffee bean and cocoa nib that carry through to the finish, this could easily continue to evolve well abv: 6.5% Price: $9/22 oz medium-weight mouthfeel. Hints of sweet smoke, through 2020. campfire and espresso bean add depth to the palate, abv: 11.6% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack while a bitter coffee and cocoa flavor grace the finish. abv: 6.2% Price: $9/16 oz 4 pack

98 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016