Betty Pants Fiv01001 Table of Contents

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS BETTY PANTS FIV01001 TABLE OF CONTENTS

METHODOLOGY ...... 3

Symbology ...... 3 Suggested equipment ...... 4 Things you need ...... 5 Pattern pieces ...... 6 Sewing technology ...... 7 How to read instruction ...... 10

SEWING ...... 11

1. Front pleat ...... 11 2. Slanted pockets ...... 12 3. Back darts ...... 17 4. Single welt pocket ...... 18 5. Inseam and side seam ...... 27 6. Crotch seam ...... 30 7. Lapped zipper ...... 31 8. Belt loops ...... 37 9. Waistband ...... 39 10. Buttonhole ...... 45 11. Open the buttonhole ...... 48 12. Button ...... 50 13.Hook and eye ...... 52 14. Hemline ...... 53 15. Creases ...... 54

GLOSSARY ...... 57

Betty pants FIV01001 Page 2 Table of contents METHODOLOGY

SYMBOLOGY

PATTERN MARKINGS

SEWING LINE CUTTING LINE

CENTER LINE FOLD LINE

PLACEMENT LINE GRAINLINE

GATHER STRETCH

BUTTONHOLE BUTTONHOLE

BUTTON PLACEMENT NOTCH

SEAM STRUCTURE

INTERFACING FABRIC

ZIPPER SERGE

CENTER LINE SERGER STITCH

SEWING LINE FOLD LINE

Betty pants METHODOLOGY FIV01001 Page 3 Symbology SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT

Sewing machine Iron Sewing Board Serger

Universal foot Overedge foot Serger foot Bobbins

Dressmaking Sewing needle for Seam ripper Rotary cutter shears hand stitch

7 3 6

4 2

2 1 1

Thread snips Tailors chalk; Safety pin Ruler soap or fabric pen

3” 4 8

3” 1” 1” 1

1 4 2

1 8

1” 1”

4 1”

8 5”

Tape measure Pins Seam gauge Machine needle

Regular zipper foot Buttonhole foot Buttonhole Cutter Sewing thread

Betty pants METHODOLOGY FIV01001 Page 4 Suggested equipment THINGS YOU NEED

• Fabric • Serger threads • Lining • 5”- 6” (12-15 cm) Regular zipper • Fusible interfacing • One 3/8”(1 cm) Button • Staystitch tape • One Pants Hook and Eye • Sewing threads

The approximate minimum and maximum amount of fabric

BODY MEASUREMENTS FABRIC 55” (140 cm) LINING 55” (140 cm)

BODY HEIGHT 65” (164 cm) N I BUST 33” (84 cm) 47” (120 cm) 14” (35 cm) M HIP 36” (91 cm)

BODY HEIGHT 73” (185 cm) X

A BUST 59” (150 cm) 102” (260 cm) 20” (50 cm) M HIP 60” (152 cm)

Recommended fabrics:

FABRIC TYPE WEIGHT / OZ (g) ELASTANE %

Tencil Twill Medium 0-4 % Gabardine /6oz - 8oz (204g - 272g)/ Tweed Medium Heavy /8oz - 10oz (272g - 339g)/ Suiting Heavy Wool Suiting /10oz - 12oz (339g - 407g)/ Woven Velveteen Corduroy Strech Denim

Betty pants METHODOLOGY FIV01001 Page 5 Things you need PATTERN PIECES ABA CAA CA AA BA AAA BAA BBA

AB AC

D C A B

BC BB

BCA ACA CE DE XA DB CB BD AD DBA CBA X

DBB CBB

PANTS FABRIC PIECES A Front Leg Right B C Back Leg Right D Upper Front Waistband Right BA AA Under Front Waistband Right BAA AAA Upper Back Waistband CA Under Back Waistband CAA Upper Pocket Pouch Facing Right BCA ACA Under Pocket Pouch Facing Right BBA ABA Fly Guard AD Fly Facing BD Welt facing DBB;CBB Welt DB;CB Belt Loop X Belt Loop Template XA Welt Pocket Template CE; DE

PANTS LINING PIECES Upper Pocket Pouch Right BC AC Under Pocket Pouch Right BB AB Welt Pocket Pouch DBA; CBA the width of the fabric, you will need to divide them and make an additional cut line.

Betty pants METHODOLOGY FIV01001 Page 6 Pattern pieces SEWING TECHNOLOGY

Fabric key

Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of fabric fabric lining lining interfacing interfacing

Interfacing placement on garment

Laying out and cutting fabric

selvage bias

gr ain

selvage

Fabric grainlines: lengthwise; crosswise; bias grains;

Betty pants METHODOLOGY FIV01001 Page 7 Sewing technology grain line =” =”

1. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 2. Place the right side of the fabric facing down on the table. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper.

Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. Mark dart points and matchpoints.

Fuse the interfacing to the fabric: Place the resin side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Press the interfacing to the fabric by using heat, steam and pressure. To fuse, start on one edge, place the iron straight down, lean in, and add pressure for 20 seconds. Check the bonding by trying to peel the interfacing away from one corner of the fabric. The fusing should be secure. Let the fused fabric cool

Betty pants METHODOLOGY FIV01001 Page 8 Sewing technology BAA AAA CB DB BD AA BA

CAA CA

Place the patterns on a single layer of the fabric + interfacing. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. Cut the fabric.

DE CE AE AF BE

D C A B

Take a piece of fuse interfacing. You are going to need this to cut just parts of pattern pieces that need to be fused. Place the patterns on a single layer of interfacing on grain. Cut the fabric.

PANTS INTERFACING PIECES

Welt pocket place DE; CE Slanted pocket edge with 3/8” (1cm) Staystitch tape AE; BE Front placket place to the fold line AF

Betty pants METHODOLOGY FIV01001 Page 9 Sewing technology HOW TO READ INSTRUCTION

SERGE illustration

action

Finishing the side seams.

PLACE

seam structure

Place and pin the side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges.

SEW

Sew the side seams.

instruction

Betty pants METHODOLOGY FIV01001 Page 10 How to read instruction

BY PURCHASING A SEWING PATTERN,

YOU GET A COMPREHENSIVE SEWING

AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION

Thank you, Fayma Team