Moonflower Pants Fiv01007 Table of Content

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MOONFLOWER PANTS FIV01007 TABLE OF CONTENT

METHODOLOGY ...... 3

Symbology ...... 3 Suggested equipment ...... 4 Things you need ...... 5 Pattern pieces ...... 6 Sewing technology ...... 7 How to read instruction ...... 10

SEWING ...... 11

1. Front gathering ...... 11 2. Front pleat ...... 12 3. Slanted pockets ...... 13 4. Back darts ...... 17

6. Inesam and side seams ...... 28 7. Crotch seam ...... 30 8. Lapped zipper ...... 32 9. Belt loops ...... 37

15. Hemline ...... 51

GLOSSARY ...... 57

FIV01007 Page 2 Table of content METHODOLOGY

SYMBOLOGY

PATTERN MARKINGS

SEWING LINE CUTTING LINE

CENTER LINE FOLD LINE

PLACEMENT LINE GRAINLINE

GATHER STRETCH

BUTTONHOLE BUTTONHOLE

BUTTON PLACEMENT NOTCH

SEAM STRUCTURE

INTERFACING FABRIC

ZIPPER SERGE

CENTER LINE SERGER STITCH

SEWING LINE FOLD LINE

METHODOLOGY FIV01007 Page 3 Symbology SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT

Sewing machine Iron Sewing Board Serger

Universal foot Overedge foot Serger foot Bobbins

Dressmaking Sewing needle for Seam ripper Rotary cutter shears hand stitch

7 3 6

4 2

2 1 1

Thread snips Tailors chalk; Safety pin Ruler soap or fabric pen

3” 4 8

3” 1” 1” 1

1 4 2

1 8

1” 1”

4 1”

8 5”

Tape measure Pins Seam gauge Machine needle

Regular zipper foot Buttonhole foot Buttonhole Cutter Sewing thread

METHODOLOGY FIV01007 Page 4 Suggested equipment THINGS YOU NEED

• Fabric • Serger threads • Lining • 6”- 7” (15cm - 18cm) Regular zipper • Fusible interfacing • One 3/8” (1 cm) Button • Sewing threads • One Pants Hook and Eye

The approximate minimum and maximum amount of fabric

BODY MEASUREMENTS FABRIC 55” (140 cm) LINING 55” (140 cm)

BODY HEIGHT 65” (164 cm) N I BUST 33” (84 cm) 93” (235 cm) 14” (35 cm) M HIP 36” (91 cm)

BODY HEIGHT 73” (185 cm) X

A BUST 59” (150 cm) 130” (330 cm) 14” (35 cm) M HIP 60” (152 cm)

Recommended fabrics:

FABRIC TYPE WEIGHT / OZ (g) ELASTANE %

Gabardine Medium 0-2 % Tencel Twill /6oz-8oz (240 -272 g)/ Woven Medium Heavy /8oz-10oz (272 - 339 g)/ Wool Suiting Heavy Charmeuse /10oz - 12oz (339 - 407 g)/ Rayon Challis

METHODOLOGY FIV01007 Page 5 Things you need PATTERN PIECES

DAC CAC AD BCA BB BBA BC AC ABA AB ACA DAA CAA

AA E F X XA

D C A B

H G DA CA DAD DAB CAB CAD

PANTS FABRIC PIECES A Front Leg Right B C Back Leg Right D Waistband AA Upper Pocket Pouch Facing Left ACA Upper Pocket Pouch Facing Right BCA Under Pocket Pouch Facing Left ABA Under Pocket Pouch Facing Right BBA Welt DAB; CAB Welt Facing DAD; CAD Belt E; F Belt loop X Belt loop template XA Fly Guard AD DA; CA Under Flap DAA; CAA Flap Template H Single Welt Pocket with Flap Placement Template G PANTS LINING PIECES Upper Pocket Pouch Left AC Upper Pocket Pouch Right BC Under Pocket Pouch Left AB Under Pocket Pouch Right BB Welt Pocket Pouch DAC; CAC the width of the fabric, you will need to divide them and make an additional cut line.

METHODOLOGY FIV01007 Page 6 Pattern pieces SEWING TECHNOLOGY

Fabric key

Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of fabric fabric lining lining interfacing interfacing

Interfacing placement on garment

Laying out and cutting fabric

Fabric grainlines: lengthwise; crosswise; bias grains;

METHODOLOGY FIV01007 Page 7 Sewing technology grain line =” =”

1. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 2. Place the right side of the fabric facing down on the table. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper.

Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. Mark dart points and matchpoints.

Fuse the interfacing to the fabric: Place the resin side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Press the interfacing to the fabric by using heat, steam and pressure. To fuse, start on one edge, place the iron straight down, lean in, and add pressure for 20 seconds. Check the bonding by trying to peel the interfacing away from one corner of the fabric. The fusing should be secure. Let the fused fabric cool

METHODOLOGY FIV01007 Page 8 Sewing technology AA

DAB CAB DA CA

Place the patterns on a single layer of the fabric + interfacing. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. Cut the fabric.

DE CE AE AF BF BE

D C A B

Take a piece of fuse interfacing. You are going to need this to cut just parts of pattern pieces that need to be fused. Place the patterns on a single layer of interfacing on grain. Cut the fabric.

PANTS INTERFACING PIECES

Welt pocket place DE; CE Slanted pocket edge AE; BE Front placket place to the fold line AF; BF

METHODOLOGY FIV01007 Page 9 Sewing technology HOW TO READ INSTRUCTION

SERGE illustration

action

Finishing the side seams.

PLACE

seam structure

Place and pin the side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges.

SEW

Sew the side seams.

instruction

METHODOLOGY FIV01007 Page 10 How to read instruction

BY PURCHASING A SEWING PATTERN,

YOU GET A COMPREHENSIVE SEWING

AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION

Thank you, Fayma Team