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techniques of advanced clothing construction

It’s challenging to try to improve the looks of garments made at home by employ- ing some of the tricks of the professionals. Couturier houses use many of these advanced construction techniques which are not usually found on guides. In fact, you can take a pattern design and make from it a garment that is individually yours by using some of these ideas. Happy sewing!

The Perfect Faced That Hook Neater Finish That Superb Hang To All-In—One Facing for Collarless, French Sleeveless Continuous Bias Strips Neckline Beautiful Bias Out-of—Sight and Mystery Out of Mitered Corners Loops—Loops and Buttons Pointed Look for Points Quick and Easy Slot Buttonholes Perfect Patch - Keep Front -Closure Dresses Closed Easy-Does—It Application Buck the Bulk—Sleeveless Garments with Seamed Almost Sleeveless Superb Top-Stitching Camisoles for Shift-No-More Tie Threads Flare Removed the Easy Way Removing Markings on Fabrics Darts for Decoration Magical Know-How with Chiffon Advanced

Construction Techniques

“N.“ sar Baste edges together

éfg‘!“‘67: Fig. 3 For lovely blouses, dresses made 1”’3!" of thin fabrics, or for any other garment you want to have that couturier finish, try this trick: Q. Construct garment using or un- Machine the facing to garment in derlining as necessary. Leave raw edges usual manner; right sides of garment exposed at neck and armholes. and fabric together. Match correspond- ing notches and seams. Fig. 4. Then for that perfect faced facing, . Clip from notch to the facing out of the garment fabric just notch in underarm portion. Turn facing to inside of garment and press. - as you usually do. Also cut a duplicate stitch finished perfect faced facing edge facing out of the lining or underlining invisibly to lining. Fig. 5. fabric. Next, join the underarm seams of each facing piece. Press seam open. Trim seam allowance. Fig. 1.

Fig. 1 Facing cut Facing cut from from Fig. 4 lining garment fabric fabric

Place facing and corresponding lining piece together with right sides of fabric together. Machine stitch the unnotched edge forming a % inch seam. Fig. 2. Fig. 5 Turn and press, keeping the seam rolled very slightly under. Baste the notched edges together using a long running stitch. Fig. 3.

Fig. 2 One additional tip: This same method of application could be used when facing- Machine type decorative touches are used on the stitch right side of garments around neckline facing and sleeves. This would involve stitching and lining the facing on the wrong side of the fabric together and then turning it to the right side of Trim. Turn. the garment. Starting at about 1 inch from folded edges of facing, understitch the facing. Press neckline edge of facing in place, in- (, cluding the extensions of the garment to which the facing is not sewed. Fig. 3.

It’s hard sometimes, especially when Fig. 3 fabric is bulky, to get the neckline flat and smooth at center back opening. Try this method on your next blouse or . With or without a , this technique works every time. Inside of Understitching garment Prepare neck facing by sewing to- gether at shoulder seams and finishing unnotched edge. Trim and press shoulder seams. (The facing may be pre- Machine baste the center back seam of pared as discussed under The Perfect the garment. The garment extensions to Faced Facing.) which the facing is not sewed are turned down and included in this stitching. On the overlap side of the back facing, Fig. 1;. Insert by machine or by turn under 11/8 inches. Press. the hand-sewn method. The overlap zip- per application must be used when put- On the underlap side, turn under 1/2 ting the facing on by this method. Start inch. Press. Fig. 1. zipper about 1A; inch to 1/2 inch down from top of garment neckline edge. Slant out the raw edges of tape at top of zipper, Fig. 1 and hand in place. Turn both sides of the facing into position over the zip- per and hand tack in place. Fig. 5.

Fig. 4

Extension turned down

Inside of Center Apply facing to garment neckline garment back matching all notches and markings. seam Check to be sure facing is 1/2 inch from edge of garment on underlap side, and 11/8 inches from edge on overlap side. Stitch facing to garment. Trim seams as close as possible; clip. Notice in the il- lustration that the neckline seam is trimmed starting 14 inch from folded edges of facing. Fig. 2. (A and B). Inside of garment Fig. 2

Put the final touches on by hand tacking the facing down at shoulder seams, pressing the neckline edge over a pressing ham and applying a hook and eye at neckline edge above zipper. Tuck infront facing edge \/

Fig. 2

The best way I know to finish the Tuck back facing shoulders of a collarless, sleeveless dress end into front is given here. Try it. You’ll like the re- sults. The facing for the neckline and - line is cut in one. Finish the outer edge Fig. 3 of the facing in an acceptable method for the fabric. Join the front and back fac- ings at underarm. When sewing up the dress, leave the shoulder seams open. Now you are ready to apply the facing to the dress.

With right sides of fabric together, Fig. 4 sew the facing to dress around neckline and sleeveline. Fig. 1. A tip worth re- membering is make the facing from shoulder line to notches of armseye about 1/3 inch smaller. This forces the seamline to roll under and not show when the dress is completed. Trim and clip seams. Turn facing to inside of dress and press. Leave shoulders \/ open XI Plunging necklines as well as wide ones can present the wearer some em- barrassing situations if they are not finished with the best known tricks of the professionals. For that dress with the deep V, anchor the neckline with a short length of featherboning. Cut a 3 inch strip of featherboning. Round off the ends. Even, Working carefully, turn the raw if the featherboning you buy is covered edges of front shoulder seam to the in- in fabric, put another covering over it side. Fig. 2. Then tuck the back shoulder to color coordinate with your garment. extension inside the front. Fig. 3. Reach Use seambinding to cover featherboning, up under thefront facing and gently pull turning in the raw edges when you ma- both shoulders from underneath. Match chine stitch binding in place. And now raw edges of shoulder seams and‘stitch for the trick of the professionals: Sew together. Before stitching, make certain one end of the featherboning to the neck- seamlines match correctly. Fig. 4. Fin- line facing IA inch below the deepest ger press seam open. Trim seam. Draw point of the V. The lower end is left free shoulder seam back into proper position to slip behind bra and permanently hold and press. this beautiful neckline in place. Fig. 1. Fig. 1 Ever spoiled the looks of your lovely outfit by having an underwear to peep out? This can be prevented with a strap holder. Try on dress to determine correct position of strap holder. Mark Featherbone position with . Make a . .1 Using a double thread, fasten securely stay on shoulder seam closest to armhole. attached Make a loop by pulling needle through at top only. fabric. Hold thread with needle in left hand. Slip loop over thumb and first two fingers of right hand. With thumb and For that U shaped neckline, your se- forefinger, pick'up needle thread; pull strategy has to be a little differ- through first loop to form a new loop. curity Continue this process to form a chain ent. Using a narrow ribbon or seam tape, long enough for slip strap to go through cut four 8 inch long strips. Sew a strip easily. To finish chain, slip needle on each bra. Fig. 2. Try on dress and through last loop and pull to make knot. mark with pins the location where strips (Illustrations for this can be found in have been sewed on bra. Remove dress many sewing books.) Sew a snap on end of chain, attaching chain in only one and sew strips at points marked on hole of the snap. Sew other half of snap dress, attaching the strips to facing only. to shoulder seam of dress. The strap Fig. 3. When you wear the dress, you holder should always open toward the can tie the neckline in place. neck. Fig 5.

Fig. 2

Now for the cutest innovation of all— the zig-zag wire. Fig. 6. This wire can be used around necklines but it also can help you achieve that professional look at Fig. 3 other places such as points of collars to keep them from turning up and flat bows to keep them flat and neat looking. Zig- zag wire is available at most notion counters in several lengths. You can bend it, stretch it and twist it tighter. The wide square neckline can also pre- But once you have achieved the shape sent some problems of staying in posi— you want, it will stay that way. When us- tion. Try this: Using featherboning, cut ing it on a garment, place it under the fl':”. ' ANinksI ‘ AWK’.“ 3A.? a strip 1 inch longer than the neck front facing and hand stitch in place to the .. '55“ '3'" " 5M3“; ; .' amen...“ edge. Cover featherboning in hemming underlining. , u’ y‘ig'm a; fr! v; f tape of matching color. Sew into dress. Fig. 4. Fig. 6

Fig. 4

.1 fl, fi' .4 *3._ W? V“2, '1 . mff“.4. “M‘-. w,s. ’4‘: Sew on facing below neckline Zig—zag wire One change must be made in cutting out the garment since there is no overlap on a loop closing, except for the loops themselves. There’s only an underlap. On the side the loops will be attached, -.~ 3 A", .I mark center front of pattern. Add 5/8 . ‘. .5‘;_a,:4.n X” “(My :4» 4 Maggi «7v inch for seam toward edge. Cut garment ..,,.f M in": '2‘? . pm- 1 c . and facing out. The loops are attached at .v,’.' the center front. Fashionable closures come and go and To prepare the loops, stitch and turn a then return again with modifications. ‘narrow strip of bias fabric. A secret in Concealed buttons and buttonholes are preparing this bias strip is to stretch often used on jackets, and dresses and press it before sewing to give appearance of fluid so that the unbroken stitches will not break when the bias .v- f:» , . g,- .. i , .. lines. Fig. 1. rwfg ” "WC! ' 4 'w .. strip is turned. Cut loops the length 3' ~; . *prr ‘~ 34,, "J‘s-E. needed to slip over the buttons easily. ':$'.l‘:§ “*r 'r I-y ya?" ’5": Baste loops, evenly spaced, to a strip 9'6,.. Fig. 1 of tissue paper, keeping cut ends even. Hand baste paper, with attached loops, to outside of garment along the center front marking. Machine baste. Fig. 1. Join facing to garment. Tear paper away carefully. Finish facing in conven- tional manner. Transfer markings to the front facing using the front as your guide. Interface the garment as usual. Make bound or machine worked F° . 1 buttonholes in the right front facing on lg Tissue the outside of the fabric. Then apply the paper facing in the usual manner. Fig. 2. When selecting buttons to use on gar- ments with concealed openings, choose flat ones.

Fig. 2 E

E Bound buttonholes in right front facing E Do you desire a designer’s look that is quick and easy? Try this. This method will produce buttonholes in a seamline by leaving the seam unstitched where buttonholes are desired. Directions are given for bodice front but this type but- tonhole may be used at center back or side openings. Self-fabric or contrasting loops can make a smart closure down the front of Cut out garment bodice front and fac- garments or at the cuffs of long, full ing as pattern indicates. After applying sleeves. , stitch facing to bodice on center front markings on the right side band is less than 5/8 inch, trim seam al- only, since this is the only side with but- lowance. Slip-stitch band in place along tonholes. Trim seam allowance leaving it inside seamline, leaving open at button- from V4 inch to 5/3 inch wide, grading hole locations. Fig. 1;. At buttonhole the seam allowance to make a flat ap- openings, slip-stitch edges together. pearance. Fig. 1. Open facing and seam, Your quick and easy slot buttonholes are and press flat. Fig. 2. now ready to use. Try it. You will like it.

/_Trim away excess band to right side of __Center front fabric and stitching line stitch

l Fig. 1 Fig.3

Fig. 4 Press seam open and facing flat

Slip-stitch Fig. 2 band in place

Now to design the band that will be! This same method can be adapted and applied and which will form the button- used to apply a band to a ribbon trimmed holes. The band may be in the same fab- sweater. When adapting to sweater, omit ric as the garment or in a contrasting facings. fabric such as , suede, or satin. The band may be designed in plaids or stripes cut on the bias or straight of the fabric. The width of the band will depend upon the size but- tons you wish to use. Generally, the width of the band is from 1A1 inch wide to 3 inches wide finished. Cut band twice the finished width desired, plus 1% inches to allow for two 5/3 inch seam al- lowances. The length of the band will be the same length of the garment at seam Have you ever noticed how dresses sewed. that button down the front gap open You can quickly and To apply band, place right sides of fab- when you sit down? on band easily prevent this from happening. Try ric together matching seamline this to center front seam of bodice. Mark the trick: position of buttonhole openings. Stitch band to front bodice, leaving open where buttonholes will be. Fig. 3. Press band seam allowance toward Sew snaps band. Trim this seam allowance if band between width is less than 5/3 inch wide. Press each button front facing to its permanent position on ( garment. Turn under raw edge of band 5/8 inch and press. If finished width of Sew snaps half way between each but- ,mg3 ton. This holds front opening in perfect ( position.

Finished facing on garment

Almost Sleeveless Sleeve This imaginative idea can be used when all of the following characteristics are found in a garment: the garment is sleeveless, the shoulder width is Sleeveless dresses are sometimes in stand- vogue; at other times long sleeves or ard, there is a separate armhole facing some other length of sleeve is the most pattern piece and the fabric tends to- fashionable. Ever heard of the almost ward being bulky. To avoid bulk build- sleeveless sleeve? This is a very, very up at underarm seam, move the facing short sleeve that gives you only a hint of underarm seam toward the back. This arm cover. same technique can be used on sleeve facings when the fabric is bulky. Cut around the top of sleeve using the sleeve pattern. Cut down the underarm To cut armhole facing, match and pin seam of sleeve 1% inches. Then cut or tape together seamlines or armhole sleeve off straight across bottom. Cut facing at underarm. Measure from seam- lining for sleeve in same manner. Fig. line 1% inches toward back facing and 1A. (Note: In lightweight fabrics, you draw a line at this point parallel with may wish to eliminate the seam across the original seamline or slightly slanted. the bottom of the sleeve. The dress fabric Fig. 1. Cut pattern on pencil line. Add and lining fabric would be of the same 5/8 inch seam allowance fabric. Cut down the underarm seam of to each side of sleeve 5/3 inch instead of 1% inches. cut pattern. Fig. 2. Pattern is now ready Then turn pattern over at lower edge of to use. Finished facing is placed on gar- sleeve and cut the identical shape again. ment, the seam will be toward back and Fig. IB. Join both the lining and the you will have bucked the bulk at the un- dress sleeve at underarm seam. Fig. 2. derarm seam. Fig. 3. Press seams open.

Fig. 1 FmJA

c’ — Mark pattern 1%", 1%" piece and cut

Fm} Fig. 1B

H Fold 5/8 line 5/8"

Add 5/8 inch seam allowance Fig. 2 Patterns for making cami- Pattern: soles are included with some patterns or you can make your own from a sheath dress pattern that features front and back bo- dice darts, is sleeveless and has a low scooped Join lining to sleeve at lower edge of neckline. sleeve taking a true 5/8 inch seam allow- ance. Fig. 3. Trim seam allowance. Turn Fabric: Lightweight lining fabric lining into sleeve and press. Fig. 1,. The is best. sleeve is now ready to set into the dress Cutting: No seam allowance is in the usual manner. When sleeve is needed around neckline sewed into dress, take the usual 5/8 inch and armhole. Actually, it seam allowance. The seamline will come is best to make neckline to the very edge of the sleeve at the un- and armholes about 1 inch derarm sleeve seam. Result: a short, deeper than usual socami— short sleeve that just about covers the sole top will not show top of the arm. A worthwhile hint—if when worn under dress your arms are large or not very attrac- top. tive, do not use this style sleeve. Construction: Make same as dress top except just turn and stitch Fig. 3 edges around armholes and neckline. Attach fin- ished camisole to as you would a one-piece Dress fabric dress. Zipper may be in- serted underarm or down Lining fabric the back.

Fig. 1

Fig. 4

Stitching line when sleeve is sewed into dress.

Most skirts have at least a slight amount of flare. In order for the hemline to be finished professionally, this flare must be removed. Here’s the easy way to remove a slight amount of flare. This If you want a skirt that hangs beauti— technique can be applied when hemming fully and forever straight, try a camisole tape is not being attached during the top. An added feature is that it is com- same sewing operation. This same skill fortable to wear. The camisole top is can be used to remove a slight amount used on skirts of two-piece dresses. of fullness at other places such as neck- Here’s how it’s done. lines. To contract the top of a , hold a forefinger just behind the as you sew the hem edge. While stitching, r.;'::I nugnt‘ Work open allow two or three inches of the edge to I a a! It; 4"ii crowd itself between the presser foot :‘fi?“151] and the finger. Stop. Lift the finger to ::tI:1“F"'“3"”:I : release the amount held there. Then put .5...5 the finger down again and continue ' _I sewing in the same manner. ‘ Fig. 1

Insert end of hook Sometimes darts are stitched on the outside as part of the decorative design of the outfit. Or you may create a design in a thin fabric and not wish to have threads hanging out at the ends of darts or tucks. There is a way to sew these darts or tucks so that strings and knots can be eliminated. Here’s how. Slip hook Remove thread from top of sewing ma- underneath chine. Put thread in place and and sew thread backwards us- ing the thread from the bobbin. Pull up about 15 to 20 inches of thread and wind it around an empty spool. You now have Fig. 3 one continuous thread running from the (a, » bobbin up to the spool on top of the ma- chine. You are now ready to sew. Be— ginning at the point of the , stitch. And this is the way the couturiers The point of the dart made in this man- make the thread loops. Thread a needle ner has no loose threads to tie. Rethread with a short thread, preferably silk or the sewing machine for each dart or buttonhole twist. Draw ends even form- tuck you sew. ing a double thread and knot. Insert needle from wrong to right side of fabric This type of dart can be used only on at bottom of where loop is desired. Insert garments when a seam crosses the larger needle 1A1 inch above and bring out at end of the dart. first point of entry. Fig. 4. Wind thread closely but not too tightly, around point end of needle to a depth of 14 inch. Fig. 5. And now for the trick. Pull needle and thread through the thread wound around the needle. Draw tight. Fig. 6. Fasten thread by inserting needle back through fabric to wrong side and secur- Perfect finishing details help you cre- mg. ate fashionable looking garments. So for the ultimate in couturier sewing, hide that unsightly metal hook. To do Fig. 4 this: Open weave of fabric with blunt end of needle. Fig. 1. In firmly woven fabrics, it may be necessary to make a very small slit with points of sharp scis- sors. Work the hook into the slit leaving only the bill end exposed. Fig. 2. Sew in place making stitches as invisible as possible. Fig. 3. Fig. 5 ings. An adaptation of it may be used on openings where a facing is not desired. For the ultimate in beautiful detail work, try this: Cut bias strip 1% inches Wide and long enough to fit edge to which it will be applied. If being applied to woolens, cut bias strips from lightweight lining or underlining fabric such as silk or- ganza. For use on silk and other light- weight or sheer fabrics, use self fabric. Fold bias in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press lightly with grain of fabric. Match raw edge of bias Fig. 6‘ strip to raw edge on outside of garment being finished. Stitch 1A; inch from raw edge. Trim to 1/3 inch. Fig. 1. (Notice that only a V4 inch seam allowance is taken. If pattern has allowed more, trim seam allowance to 1/1 inch before apply- ing piping.) Turn bias strip over raw edge to inside of fabric. Machine stitch in the welt of bias strip. Fig. 2. Use matching thread and stitches will not Show in finished product.

A flat chain, designed expressly for use in clothing, helps jackets have the hang of perfection. The chain is placed Outside offabric Fig. 1 1/8 inch above the lower edge of the‘ jack- et and usually extends from front facing to front facing. Lightweight chains are used on and jackets; me- dium weight on lightweight woolens; Trim to 1/3 inch heavier chains for bulky fabrics. The chain should be removed when the is drycleaned. Sew chain in by hand catching every Inside of fabric other chain. The clear transparent monofilament thread is good to use.

Facing

Fig. 3 Sew chain in alternate links to lower edge of jacket

Some professional seamstresses like to reverse the stitching process stated above. Sew bias strip to inside of gar- ment first; then turn and machine stitch or hand slip stitch on right side. This method requires complete accuracy in French piping is used as a finish on all measurements. The finished product raw edges of hems, necklines, and fac- is shown in Fig. 4. Fig. 4 Match the two crosswise grainline edges to form a tube, slipping the fabric down so that the cut raw edge matches thefirst marked line. Fig. 1;. Stitch seam. Press open.

Fig. 4

Need a lot of bias strips? Then here’s how to make it by the yards and yards. And now for the bias strips by the In fact from one yard of 36 inch wide yards. Cut fabric on marked lines mak- fabric, you can make about 24 yards of ing one long continuous strip. Fig. 5. 1/2 inch bias strips. Cut a square of fabric. Fold fabric to form 2 triangles and mark accurately on wrong side the center bias fold. Fig. 1. With yardstick, mark on each side of the center fold line rows of bias strips the desired width. Fig. 2. Cut on center bias fold line to separate the two equal tri- angular sections. Place right sides of fabric together, along lengthwise grain- line edges. Match marked lines. Stitch. Fig. 3. Press seam open.

There is a fail proof way to apply bias Fig. 1 binding to garments. Achieve the look of perfection. Try this method. Around areas where bias binding is to be applied, place facings on garment matching wrong sides of fabric together. Cut here __) /// Stitch facing on garment on seamline. Trim away the seam allowance. Then stitch Va inch and 3/3 inch inside seam- I line to hold grainline and give body. I Fig. 1. l i Fig. 2 Trim l Three :> I l rows of / stitching (\g‘~. . 9: Wrong side ) (”W Crosswise graini A Fig. 1 3’ X Cut bias strip 11/2 inches wide and the desired length. Pin bias on garment matching cut edges, right sides of fabric together, and stretching bias strip a bit Fig. 3 as» 41%“ so it will fit edge over which it will roll. Stitch. Fig. 2. exactly the same except point W is on one side of the loop and point Y is on the other side. Remove bulk from corner of 1'\ bias strip by clipping in seam allowance to points W and Y and then cutting diag- onally to the center of the folded edge of the loop. Fig. 2. Turn loop in bias bind- ing over seam allowance of garment so that it lays as it will when finished. F91d bias strip over to wrong side 0f Establish fold line of corner. Fig. 3. fabric: Turn in edge. Hem by hand along Press. Turn bias strip to wrong side and StltChmg .011. wrong Slde; Fig. 3. Thls machine stitch on press mark. Fig. 4. forms a fimShed bias binding 3/8 mCh Trim seam allowance to 1/8 inch. Turn wide. back over garment seam allowance and Fold bias slip-stitch in place on wrong side of strip over; , garment. hem by hand ,- Fig. 1 Stitching line . Wrong side starting at Y Fig. 3 Outer edge is on other side of garment of loop On jackets or dresses with collars joining , miter corners and turn in ends of binding where collar and V join. Fig. 4.

Fig. 4 — Miter . corners Fig.2

Turn in ends of binding on garments where collar and lapel Clip and join. remove corner of binding

Turn and finger press in fold line There are two methods of mitering corners. One method is used when ap- . plying a bias binding by the method x9,, x gs.. previously described. To miter outward ' 4. g. corners, extend the bias strip in a loop, x Fig. 1, so that the strip can be turned back and mitered to fit the corner. Stitch x. from V to W (the exact point of the cor- ner) and . Remove garment Machine from sewing machine. Start at Y (the stitch exact point of the corner on the other on press mark : }aa.3"h.1...?”i) side of the loop) and continue stitching ‘x 1~ on the bias binding. Points W and Y are :37”xg ' "I u “Vi ) ‘3 This method of mitering a corner can be used when applying any kind of dec- orative band to a garment with a finished edge.

Fig. 5 Sew a slight curve to make a pro— fessional looking corner point. Top-stitch along finished edge You can achieve this on outside of fabric.

instead of this bulgy look. Fig. 6‘ Fold back upon itself and press fold.

Instead of stitching to a sharp point at the corner of the. collars, flaps or a lapel, round the stitches like Fig. 7 this Fold again toward edge to which it will be applied. Press.

or take one or two small diagonal Fig. 8 stitches like this. Stitch along diagonal crease underneath.

Cutbulkout ______- of corners. ‘

Fig. 9 Continue to apply trim, Insert finger into top—stitching both edges the corner. in place. Turn down seam allowances at corner as _ Leave shown. Hold seam allowances firm and turn corner to right side. 2 inch opening

""-‘"' Fig.2

3 " y ;_ Stitch lining to outer fabric Press on point presser.

Turn pocket through 2 inch opening left in seam shown in Fig. 2. Slip-stitch opening closed. Fig. 4.

Fig. 4 I

Invisibly attached is this perfect patch pocket. It is for decorative use on your Slip-stitch finer sport clothes and dressier clothes. 54,—— together Just between you and me, pockets on better clothes are really not meant to be used for carrying items or placing hands in them. Pin pocket into position marked on Cut pocket by the pattern allowing the garment. Baste. Fig. 5. Working now 2 inch hem at top. Cut to from the inside of the garment, apply by stop at hemline. Cut a lining 4 inches hand stitching the pocket to the garment shorter than the pocket. Secure inter- so that no stitches show on right side of facing to wrong side of pocket allowing fabric. Use a small back stitch. Fig. 6. it to come just to the hemline. Fig. 1. Place right sides of lining and outer fab- Fig. 5 ric together at top of pocket and machine stitch taking a 5A; inch seam allowance and leaving seam open 2 inches at center Pin and baste to turn. Fig. 2. Fold pocket on hemline pocket to dress. so that the right side of lining fabric is against the right side of the outer fabric. Sew lining and outer fabrics together on two sides and bottom of pocket. Trim seams; cut out corners. Fig. 3.

Fig. 1 Wrong side of pocket fabric __i___ Hand stitching Interfacing : on wrong side of fabric. A waistband 3%: inch wide finished is a figure flattering width. Try this method of cutting and stitching for the _—_.!‘. easy-does-it waistband application. 1‘ To cut: Cut waistband 21/8 inches wide and the length of skirt waist plus 2% inches. Cut on lengthwise grain using Inside the of the fabric. Underline waistband, if necessary. W To prepare: Fold waistband length- wise with right sides of fabric together. Fold so selvage is 5/8 inch from cut edge. Fig. 1. Sew ends taking a 5/8 inch seam allowance. Trim seam allowance. Turn and press. To apply to skirt: Place raw Sew -—-_—,mymw-_‘_1nsu— edge of waistband to top of skirt. taking a 5/8 inch seam allowance. Fig. 2. The 1 inch extra fabric in the length of the waistband forms the underlap on left back edge. Do not trim seam allow- ances on lightweight skirt fabrics; trim one seam allowance on medium and heavier weight skirt fabrics. The seam allowance acts as the interfacing and helps hold the band in upright position. Turn waistband over seam allowance, and place selvage just covering the Where seams and pleats meet, the stitching line inside. Baste in place. Fig. problem is to get the seam to lay flat. 3. From the right side, machine stitch Many of our garments now feature hard along waistband seam catching the sel— pressed or soft rolled pleats. Here’s how vage underneath. The zipper presser to do this: foot may be used on heavier weight fab- rics. Force waistband back as you stitch Trim hem to even width. Turn up hem. so that you do not catch it. Top-stitching Clip seam allowance at top of . will be practically invisible when gar- Trim seam allowance in hem portion to ment is worn. Fig. 4. % inch and press open. Fig. 1. Finish hemming to skirt. Fig. 2. Note: For a smooth fitting, figure flat- tering skirt, skirt on to Fig. 1 waistband.

Fig. 1 Selvage Fig. 2 To do the sewing machine leave needle in the fabric at the end of the stitching line. Raise the presser bar very slightly. Holding the fabric very securely so it will not move, take several stitches right over the last stitch. In- stant magic—locked stitches.

You can give an important custom look to many garments by adding top- stitching. Silk buttonhole twist is the best thread to use but two strands of silk or other type thread can also be used effectively. Thread sewing machine with On most fabrics, unless the fibers have been broken, thread markings can be re- the-two strands of thread as if they were moved. one strand. When using silk buttonhole Try this: twist, use as top thread on your machine. If stitching will show on underside, use With a very damp cloth, lightly buttonhole twist in the bobbin as well. moisten area of fabric where stitch markings are to be removed. Using both To simulate saddle stitching, set ma- hands, chine for 6 to 8 stitches per inch. If gently pull the fabric on the bias. Keep working with the fabric pulling it fabric has a tendency to pucker or shift, on the bias stitch over tissue paper. Tear paper until fibers return to their original position. Set fibers into place away when completed. Where stitching by pressing begins and ends, leave threads long using a damp steam cloth. enough to be inserted by a needle into fabric and fastened. Top-stitch garment from the right side whenever possible. In order for top-stitching to be beau- tiful, it must be straight. To insure straight stitching, use one of the follow— ing methods. (1) For edge top-stitching, use the distance marker on your sewing machine. (2) Sharpen ’s chalk to a fine point. Measure and mark a con- tinuous line where stitching will be. (3) For internal top-stitching, use a Cutting and stitching slippery fabrics machine quilter foot. (4) For curved or brings many expert home seamstresses decorative lines, trace design on brown to the hair pulling stage. But with this paper. Cut out design. Pin or haste to special tip, you will be able to be the garment. Stitch against the edge of master over the fabric. paper. Press fabric. Clip selvage. With a warm iron, press enough tissue paper to back the fabric. Pin tissue paper to wrong side of fabric. You will now work with the tissue paper and fabric as one. Lay pattern and cut. For garments not double fabric constructed, transfer pat- tern markings to paper with tailor’s Ever tried securing thread on the carbon paper or transfer pattern mark- sewing machine? This is the quick and ings to fabric and paper with tailor’s easy way the skilled seamstresses do it. tacks. Remove pattern pieces. With Practice several times, and you too can matching thread and a fine machine perfect this technique. needle, staystitch all seamlines and darts. After all staystitching has been rolling. With the thumb and forefinger, completed, tear paper away. The stay- roll fabric until machine stitching has stitching will now help control the fabric been rolled into the hem and is com- for you. Sometimes these slippery fab- pletely out of sight. Take small stitches rics will not move over the feed dog in the rolled hem making the stitches easily. If this happens, slip a piece of tis- about 5/8 inch apart. Roll and hem one sue paper between machine feed dog and inch of fabric. Then pull stitches taut so fabric. that the hem rolls a little more and most of the hemming stitches will be hidden. It may be necessary to do some stitch- This type of hem will show the stitches ing of seams and other work by hand. on the outside of the fabric but this is The hand sewing stitch to use is a small part of its appearance. full back stitch. Did you know that many of the couturier garments are completely constructed by hand sewing? In many cases, this insures greater accuracy. And now just one final tip: A hand-rolled hem is usually used on chiffon, marquisettes, and other soft sheers. To do this, cut the length one inch longer than it has been marked. Accurately machine stitch one-half inch above the cut edge. Trim away the raw edge right at the stitching line. Hold the fabric with wrong side up. Moisten the fingers of the hand which will do the Stitches in garment before pulling taut

Prepared by: Dorothy L Barrier, Extension Clothing Specialist

Published by THE NORTH CAROLINA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE North Carolina State University at Raleigh, North Carolina Agricultural and Technical State University at Greensboro, and the U. S. Depart- ment of Agriculture, Cooperating. State University Station, Raleigh, N. C., T. C. Blalock, Director. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of L) Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914. The North Carolina Agricultural Extension Service otters its programs to all eligible per- sons regardless of race, color, or national origin, and is an equal op- portunity employer. 7-81-7M (Reprint) Home Economics 119