techniques of , advanced, clothing comatruction I Creative techniques of advanced clothing construction It’s challenging to try to improve the looks of garments made at home by employ- ing some of the sewing tricks of the professionals. Couturier houses use many of these advanced construction techniques which are not usually found on pattern guides. In fact, you can take a pattern design and make from it a garment that is individually yours by using some of these ideas. Happy sewing! The Perfect Faced Facing Hide That Hook Neater Neckline Finish That Superb Hang To Jackets All-In—One Facing for Collarless, French Piping Sleeveless Dresses Continuous Bias Strips Neckline Notions Beautiful Bias Binding Out-of—Sight Buttons and Buttonholes Mystery Out of Mitered Corners Loops—Loops and Buttons Pointed Look for Points Quick and Easy Slot Buttonholes Perfect Patch Pockets- Keep Front Button-Closure Dresses Closed Easy-Does—It Waistband Application Buck the Bulk—Sleeveless Garments Hems with Seamed Pleats Almost Sleeveless Sleeves Superb Top-Stitching Camisoles for Shift-No-More Skirts Tie Threads Hemline Flare Removed the Easy Way Removing Thread Markings on Fabrics Darts for Decoration Magical Know-How with Chiffon Advanced Construction Techniques “N.“ sar Baste edges together éfg‘!“‘67: Fig. 3 For lovely silk blouses, dresses made 1”’3!" of thin fabrics, or for any other garment you want to have that couturier finish, try this trick: Q. Construct garment using lining or un- Machine stitch the facing to garment in derlining as necessary. Leave raw edges usual manner; right sides of garment exposed at neck and armholes. and fabric together. Match correspond- ing notches and seams. Fig. 4. Trim Then for that perfect faced facing, cut seam. Clip seam allowance from notch to the facing out of the garment fabric just notch in underarm portion. Turn facing to inside of garment and press. Slip- as you usually do. Also cut a duplicate stitch finished perfect faced facing edge facing out of the lining or underlining invisibly to lining. Fig. 5. fabric. Next, join the underarm seams of each facing piece. Press seam open. Trim seam allowance. Fig. 1. Fig. 1 Facing cut Facing cut from from Fig. 4 lining garment fabric fabric Place facing and corresponding lining piece together with right sides of fabric together. Machine stitch the unnotched edge forming a % inch seam. Fig. 2. Fig. 5 Turn and press, keeping the seam rolled very slightly under. Baste the notched edges together using a long running stitch. Fig. 3. Fig. 2 One additional tip: This same method of application could be used when facing- Machine type decorative touches are used on the stitch right side of garments around neckline facing and sleeves. This would involve stitching and lining the facing on the wrong side of the fabric together and then turning it to the right side of Trim. Turn. the garment. Starting at about 1 inch from folded edges of facing, understitch the facing. Press neckline edge of facing in place, in- (, cluding the extensions of the garment to which the facing is not sewed. Fig. 3. It’s hard sometimes, especially when Fig. 3 fabric is bulky, to get the neckline flat and smooth at center back opening. Try this method on your next blouse or dress. With or without a collar, this technique works every time. Inside of Understitching garment Prepare neck facing by sewing to- gether at shoulder seams and finishing unnotched edge. Trim and press shoulder seams. (The facing may be pre- Machine baste the center back seam of pared as discussed under The Perfect the garment. The garment extensions to Faced Facing.) which the facing is not sewed are turned down and included in this stitching. On the overlap side of the back facing, Fig. 1;. Insert zipper by machine or by turn under 11/8 inches. Press. the hand-sewn method. The overlap zip- per application must be used when put- On the underlap side, turn under 1/2 ting the facing on by this method. Start inch. Press. Fig. 1. zipper about 1A; inch to 1/2 inch down from top of garment neckline edge. Slant out the raw edges of tape at top of zipper, Fig. 1 and hand tack in place. Turn both sides of the facing into position over the zip- per and hand tack in place. Fig. 5. Fig. 4 Extension turned down Inside of Center Apply facing to garment neckline garment back matching all notches and markings. seam Check to be sure facing is 1/2 inch from edge of garment on underlap side, and 11/8 inches from edge on overlap side. Stitch facing to garment. Trim seams as close as possible; clip. Notice in the il- lustration that the neckline seam is trimmed starting 14 inch from folded edges of facing. Fig. 2. (A and B). Inside of garment Fig. 2 Put the final touches on necklines by hand tacking the facing down at shoulder seams, pressing the neckline edge over a pressing ham and applying a hook and eye at neckline edge above zipper. Tuck infront facing edge \/ Fig. 2 The best way I know to finish the Tuck back facing shoulders of a collarless, sleeveless dress end into front is given here. Try it. You’ll like the re- sults. The facing for the neckline and sleeve- line is cut in one. Finish the outer edge Fig. 3 of the facing in an acceptable method for the fabric. Join the front and back fac- ings at underarm. When sewing up the dress, leave the shoulder seams open. Now you are ready to apply the facing to the dress. With right sides of fabric together, Fig. 4 sew the facing to dress around neckline and sleeveline. Fig. 1. A tip worth re- membering is make the facing from shoulder line to notches of armseye about 1/3 inch smaller. This forces the seamline to roll under and not show when the dress is completed. Trim and clip seams. Turn facing to inside of dress and press. Leave shoulders \/ open XI Plunging necklines as well as wide ones can present the wearer some em- barrassing situations if they are not finished with the best known tricks of the professionals. For that dress with the deep V, anchor the neckline with a short length of featherboning. Cut a 3 inch strip of featherboning. Round off the ends. Even, Working carefully, turn the raw if the featherboning you buy is covered edges of front shoulder seam to the in- in fabric, put another covering over it side. Fig. 2. Then tuck the back shoulder to color coordinate with your garment. extension inside the front. Fig. 3. Reach Use seambinding to cover featherboning, up under thefront facing and gently pull turning in the raw edges when you ma- both shoulders from underneath. Match chine stitch binding in place. And now raw edges of shoulder seams and‘stitch for the trick of the professionals: Sew together. Before stitching, make certain one end of the featherboning to the neck- seamlines match correctly. Fig. 4. Fin- line facing IA inch below the deepest ger press seam open. Trim seam. Draw point of the V. The lower end is left free shoulder seam back into proper position to slip behind bra and permanently hold and press. this beautiful neckline in place. Fig. 1. Fig. 1 Ever spoiled the looks of your lovely outfit by having an underwear strap to peep out? This can be prevented with a strap holder. Try on dress to determine correct position of strap holder. Mark Featherbone position with pins. Make a chain stitch. .1 Using a double thread, fasten securely stay on shoulder seam closest to armhole. attached Make a loop by pulling needle through at top only. fabric. Hold thread with needle in left hand. Slip loop over thumb and first two fingers of right hand. With thumb and For that U shaped neckline, your se- forefinger, pick'up needle thread; pull strategy has to be a little differ- through first loop to form a new loop. curity Continue this process to form a chain ent. Using a narrow ribbon or seam tape, long enough for slip strap to go through cut four 8 inch long strips. Sew a strip easily. To finish chain, slip needle on each bra. Fig. 2. Try on dress and through last loop and pull to make knot. mark with pins the location where strips (Illustrations for this can be found in have been sewed on bra. Remove dress many sewing books.) Sew a snap on end of chain, attaching chain in only one and sew strips at points marked on hole of the snap. Sew other half of snap dress, attaching the strips to facing only. to shoulder seam of dress. The strap Fig. 3. When you wear the dress, you holder should always open toward the can tie the neckline in place. neck. Fig 5. Fig. 2 Now for the cutest innovation of all— the zig-zag wire. Fig. 6. This wire can be used around necklines but it also can help you achieve that professional look at Fig. 3 other places such as points of collars to keep them from turning up and flat bows to keep them flat and neat looking. Zig- zag wire is available at most notion counters in several lengths. You can bend it, stretch it and twist it tighter. The wide square neckline can also pre- But once you have achieved the shape sent some problems of staying in posi— you want, it will stay that way. When us- tion.