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Londa Rohlfing - Memory T-Shirt
Londa Rohlfing - Memory T-Shirt Londa digs in, filters, and combines men’s collared polo knit shirts and seven dress shirts into strikingly artistic tops so the men in your life better lock their closets! Mannequin 1: The Khaki/Black Shirt Interesting collar edge - how it flows over the shoulder to the back 1. Asymmetrical/Informal Balance - accented with woven striped shirt set in from behind to fill in low neckline. 2. Combination of textures - couched edges for ‘finish’ - more on how to couch later. Yarn ‘connects’ everything, finishes edges. 3. Light hand stitching as center of interest - also on back, and sleeves 4. Bound neckline using knit fabric 5. Even Daddy’s ‘spot’ is OK! 6. Original uneven hemline - bound slits at side seams Mannequin 2: The Periwinkle Shirt 1. Symmetrical/Formal balance 2. Curved line of inset check knit shirt flows over the shoulder/sleeve seam - had to stitch shoulder seams, insert sleeves before working the check shirt ‘fill-in’ at the chest. 3. Reason for lower yoke, to cover up the logo embroidery at left chest. 4. Wider at shoulders always makes hips look slimmer 5. Use of polo collar - wrong side as ‘outside’ to not show ‘worn’ folded edge of collar. 6. Bias is ALWAYS better/more flattering - check shirt inset. 7. ALWAYS stay-stitch neckline edges. 8. Bound neckline finished with bias tie fabric. 9. Bias cut 2 layer ‘Fabric Fur’ + yarn = the trim. 10. Somewhat wild eye-attracting ‘hairy’ Couched yarn connects everything and adds some ‘pizazz. 11. Sleeves - tie label covers insignia at sleeve, bias Fabric Fur + yarn trim connects with rest of the shirt. -
2013 Proceedings New Orleans, Louisiana 70 Years of Fashion In
New Orleans, Louisiana 2013 Proceedings 70 Years of Fashion in the Chinese Dress—Exploring Sociocultural influences on Chinese Qipao’s Hemline Height and Waistline Fit in 1920s-1980s Lushan Sun, University of Missouri, USA Melody LeHew, Kansas State University, USA Keywords: Chinese, qipao, hemline, waistline The evolving dynasties and periods in Chinese history have always been accompanied with unique changes in its dress. Under the globalized society today, Chinese fashion has also left its footprint in the international fashion industry through which the world gains further understanding of the Chinese culture. The Chinese dress for woman, qipao or cheongsam in Cantonese, has evolved through a variety of silhouettes and styles under the quick changing cultural environment in the 1900s. Today, it has been accepted and internationally recognized as the distinctive national dress for the Chinese woman. According to the principle of historical continuity, “each new fashion is an outgrowth or elaboration of the previously existing fashion” (Sproles, 1981, p.117). Qipao may be traced back as early as Shang dynasty (1600-1046 B.C.) in a form of long robe, and it has flourished through different cultures and dynasties and periods in China (Liu, 2009). Its most commonly known origin lies in Qing dynasty (1644-1911) in the Chinese feudal society. Elements of both Manchu and Han ethnic dresses contributed in shaping the original qipao style during this time. The Republican Era (1911-1949), a transitional time from the feudal to modern Chinese society, accompanied with revolutionary changes in qipao styles. During this period, qipao was the main site of woman’s fashion and became “a stage for debates about sex, gender roles, aesthetics, the economy, and the nation” (Finanne, 2007, p.141). -
HARNESSES HARNESS MATRIX to Order a Harness to Meet Your Specific Needs, Use the Following Procedure
HARNESSES HARNESS MATRIX To order a harness to meet your specific needs, use the following procedure. Simply insert the digit noted to configure the harness you desire (note: harness always starts with a 6) CHEST STRAP LEG STRAP FALL ARREST BODY BELT SHOULDER 6 ATTACHMENT HARNESS TYPE ATTACHMENT ATTACHMENT ATTACHMENT PADS If prefix 'U' X 0 = Used only with 0 = None 0 = None inserted harness type 3 universal fit. Only available with harness with upper HARNESSES body adjustment buckles. 3 = Hook and Loop 3 = Cross-over design 3S = #3B w/ quick 1 = Step-in leg straps - 5 = Permanently 1 = Outside Mount 1" 1 = Permanent Chest Strap w/ perm attachment connect buckles no buckles attached Plastic Buckles strap located 3 3/4" above front 'X'. APPLICABLE ONLY TO CHEST STRAP ATTACHMENT 0 4 = Interlocking 3B = #3 with loop 7G = Spring loaded 3 = Interlocking Buckle 5Q = Energy Absorber 4 = Body belt attached 2 = Replaceable Buckle at cross on front friction buckle on permanently through means of loops of harness vertical shoulder attached attached to harness straps 4B = Interlocking 3D = #3 without chest 8 = Basic Harness 3A = Interlocking 6 = Dee Ring (1069) 4C = Straps with 3 = Replaceable w/ 1" Buckle black strap, with 1 3/4" no shoulder strap Buckle (black Interlock buckles to 4-ply nylon loop for powder coated nylon attach. pcs adjustment powder coated) connect Buck Ergo snaphook and hook stitched across back Harness. Buck Ergo and loop to hold lanyard shoulder straps directly Only on shoulder (6JLV) below the chafe in back 8C = Quick Connect 3E = #3D with loop 9 = Basic harness 4 = Grommets 7 = Web loop 4Q = Body Belt 4 = Light Weight Buckle w/ hook and at cross on front of with shoulder strap Permanently Permanent loop for vertical harness adjustment attached adjustments 8D = Quick Connect 9A = Basic harness. -
Tailoring Series TECHNIQUES for TAILORING UNDERLINING a TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining Is a Second Layer of Fabric. It Is Cut By
tailoring series TECHNIQUES FOR TAILORING UNDERLINING A TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining is a second layer of fabric. It is cut by the garment pattern pieces and staystitched to the wrong side of the corresponding outer sections before any seams are joined. The two layers are then handled as one. As a general guide, most suit jackets and coats look more pro- fessional when underlined. Underlining is especially recommended for lightweight wool materials, loosely woven materials and light- colored materials. For additional information on selecting fabrics for underlining and applying the underlining, see Lining a Shirt 01' Dress HE 72, N. C. Agricultural Extension Service. STAYSTITCHING—Staystitch all outer garment pieces before construction begins. If garment is underlined, stays-titching is done when the two layers of fabric are sewn together. Staystitch 1/3 in. outside seamline (on the seam allowance). Stay- stitch “ with matching cotton thread on all curved *areas that may stretch during construction such as necklines, side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, and side seams of skirt. Use directional stitching always to prevent stretching of fabric and to prevent one layer of fabric from riding. The direction to stitch is indicated by small arrows on the pattern on the seamlines. INTERFACINGS—Select a high quality hair canvas for the front and collar of coats and jackets. The percentage of wool indicates the quality—the higher the wool content of the canvas the better the quality. Since a high percentage of wool makes the hair canvas fairly dark in color, it cannot be used successfully under light-colored fabrics. In these cases use an interfacing lighter in color and lower in wool content. -
Revolution Supplement.Indd
MILLER REVOLUTION REVOLUTION KEY FEATURES Thank you for purchasing the Miller Revolution Harness. The Revolution is an all new Stand Up D-Ring and totally innovative harness engineered with seven (7) unique components and more Spring loaded D-Ring simplifi es snaphook con- than eleven (11) key product features. Your Miller Revolution harness was engineered nection. to meet or exceed all applicable OSHA, ANSI and CSA requirements and standards. Please carefully read the new Miller Harness Instruction manual to help you identify all Do not apply lubricants to the spring mechanism. of the various general warnings, inspection procedures and other helpful information. If dirt begins to collect inside the mechanism, use compressed air, a soft brush and/or warm water Please carefully read this supplemental Revolution Instruction manual. It contains with a mild detergent to clean it. special instructions, inspections and maintenance procedures that are unique to the Revolution Harness product line. Should you have any questions about your Miller Revolution Harness, please contact the Miller Customer Service at 800-873-5242. ErgoArmorTM Back Shield Preparing your harness for use: Semi-Flexible ErgoArmor back shield minimizes impact from sharp/heavy snap hooks and self-retracting lifelines. • Before you don (wear) the harness, you must read and understand the Miller Harness Instruction manual. The back shield also provides two locations for custom labels. • Although your harness is “ready-to-use,” sizing it the fi rst time will require The left for a company label, and the right for a high visibility some adjustments to ensure proper fi t. individual worker identifi cation label. -
JICMS Uniform Dress Code
JICMS Uniform Dress Code Approved Uniform Items The following items have been selected as the acceptable uniforms for students at JICMS. All items may be worn year-round as appropriate. Acceptable uniform items may be purchased from various stores such as French Toast, Old Navy, and Land’s End. Please contact the middle school administration for clarification before purchasing uniform items. ACCEPTABLE TOPS: UNACCEPTABLE TOPS: -POLOS -POLOS o Solid in color o Form-fitting or see through tops o White polo with undershirt/tank top o Button down dress shirts o Loose fitting, modest in cut and style o Stripes, prints, or other designs o Must have functional buttons up to the collar o Sleeves that extend past the wrist o Logos or emblems that are smaller than the size o Black polo in combination with black pants except of a quarter when band students need to dress up o Only have the top button undone o Thumb holes o Long or short sleeved o Pockets o Must be tucked in at all times -SWEATERS AND SWEATSHIRTS -SWEATERS AND SWEATSHIRTS o Sweaters, sweater vests, and sweatshirts worn o Hoodies, of any kind over tucked in polos o Ponchos, fleece, or fleece-type materials o Uniform style sweaters or sweater vests that are o Stripes, prints, or other designs solid navy blue, gray, or white in color o Wearing sweaters/sweatshirts backwards, just over o JICMS school sweatshirts-navy blue or gray the arms, or tied around the waist o Solid plain navy blue or gray sweatshirts o Sleeves that extend past the wrist o Must come to hip level and worn properly -
News You Can Use
News You Can Use LivingSoft Subscriber Newsletter | Volume 13 Dress Shop 7 Released! Become a Fashion Designer at home! With Dress Shop 7, you too can be a fashion designer, starting with a pattern that fits and making something extraordinary to wear! On October 20, 2006, Dress Shop 7 was released, exactly two years after Dress The NEW Design Elements in Dress Shop 7 Shop 6 was released. Dress Shop 7 includes more patterns, more tools, more The Dress Shop 7 upgrade necklines, more collars, more sleeves, includes many new features, but and more closure options than ever this article will address only the before. And, upgrading is a bargain. If new design elements: necklines, you do not yet own the Dress Shop collars, closures, sleeves, waist Fashion Design tools, upgrading to Dress Shop 7 gives offset and Pattern Conversion you over $200 worth of design tools for just the $60 tools. Dress Shop 7 Pro also upgrade price. And, you get more than a hundred additional includes ALL of the fashion patterns, plus the new necklines, collars, closures, and design tools as well. sleeves to boot. Necklines: Some necklines were added to Dress Shop If you do own any of the prior tool products, you get a for just one or 2 named patterns. The Cami neck for discount on the upgrade for each tool you own. Either way, instance was available only for the Camisole and you you win! could use it on just that one pattern from the Lingerie category. Now, this neckline may be used on fitted Upgrading from Dress Shop 6 to Dress Shop 7 costs $60, shirts, shells, sheaths, and jumpers for a wide less $10 for each Dress Shop Tool product you own assortment of garment designs. -
ZIPPERS ACKNOWLEDGMENT Thanks Are Due to Mrs
UNIVERSITY OF HAWAII . COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE' HOME ECONOMICS CIRCULAR 352 ZIPPERS ACKNOWLEDGMENT Thanks are due to Mrs. Helene Horimoto for her cooperation in serving as the mod e 1 for the photographs, as well as for her secre tarial assistance. The professional coopera tion in photography by Masaru Miyamoto of the Office of University Relations and Develop ment is also acknowledged. , ZIPPERS GERTRUDE P. HARRELL Extension Specialist in Clothing Zippers are being used in a large majority of our garments today. Various types of zip pers are on the market and one needs to select the kind that is most suitable for the garment. The coil zipper is thinner and is good to use in your synthetic garments and especially with the wash and wears, because hot iron will not come in contact with the zipper. If you are making a garment that is going to be ironed or pressed with a hot iron, it would be preferable to select a metal zipper or a coil zipper with tape backing. In selecting the length of the zipper, check your pattern, since most will give you the desired length; but you must consider if you will need just a little longer zipper in the back of a garment if you plan to step into and out of it. Some times a 22-inch zipper is not quite long enough and yet a 24 -inch zipper is too long. Put in a 24-inch zipper and Simply let the extra 1 inch of the zipper remain unnoticed and unstitched from the outside. -
Key Details We Look for at Inspection
Key Details We Look for at Inspection Please not that these lists are not all inclusive but highlight areas that most often cause difficulty. Additional details are included on spec sheets for individual costumes. Boys’ Costumes Achterhoek: 1. Overall appearance of costume 2. Do you have the correct hat? This is the high one. Volendam is shorter. 3. The collar extends to the edge of the shirt and can be comfortably buttoned at the neck. 4. Ring on scarf and is visible above vest. If necessary use a gold safety pin to hold the ring in place. 5. Is the scarf on the inside of the vest, front and back? 6. Shirt buttons are in the center of the front band 7. The vest closes left over right. 8. The chain is in the 2nd buttonhole from the bottom 9. Welt pockets are made correctly and in the correct position. 10. Pants clear shoes. 11. Pants have a 6” hem Marken: 1.Overall appearance of costume 2.Red shirt underneath jacket 3.Red stitching on jacket placket 4.Closes as a boy (L. over R.) 5.Pants at mid-calf when pulled straight 6.Pants down 1” from waist Nord Holland Sunday: 1. Overall appearance of costume 2. Correct hat and scarf 3. Neck - can fit 1 finger 4. 2 dickies (one solid and one striped) 5. Jacket - collar flaps lay smooth 6. Buttonholes are horizontal 7. Jacket closes as a boy (left over right) 8. Cord, hook and eye at back of pants 9. Pants clear shoes 10.6 inch hem Noord Holland Work: 1. -
Expert Sewing and Ironing Techniques and Jacket Appearance
Expert sewing and ironing techniques and jacket appearance KyoungOk Kim Division of Kansei and Fashion Engineering, Institute for Fiber Engineering (IFES), Interdisciplinary Cluster for Cutting Edge Research (ICCER), Shinshu University, Ueda, Nagano, Japan [email protected] Masayuki Takatera Division of Kansei and Fashion Engineering, Institute for Fiber Engineering (IFES), Interdisciplinary Cluster for Cutting Edge Research (ICCER), Shinshu University, Ueda, Nagano, Japan [email protected] Tsuyoshi Otani Faculty of Textile Science and Technology, Shinshu University, Japan Abstract Purpose: Cloth can form a curved surface without wrinkling through deformation in shear and tension. Deformation is achieved in clothes production by ironing. We clarify how a skilled worker deforms cloth to produce curved surfaces. Design/methodology/approach: We investigated advanced techniques of sewing and ironing used to produce three-dimensional jackets and compared jackets made by experts with and without the techniques using the same jacket patterns. We interviewed the experts to clarify the aim of each process. Findings: Advanced techniques were mainly used on the sleeve, shoulder, armhole, pocket flap and collar. The use of advanced three-dimensional techniques affected the silhouette of the jacket and both parts and the overall shape of the jacket. The shape of the jacket became smoother and more curved and thus better fitted a dress form. The effects of the application of advanced techniques on each jacket part became clear, with all parts mutually affecting the silhouette of the jacket. The experts imagined the form that the designer aimed for in the pattern and accounted for it. In other words, the construction was at the discretion of the experts. -
Soft Fluid Fabrics
CT-MMB.178 SOFT FLUID FABRICS Soft fluid fabrics are those that are lightweight and supple. They require • If very slippery, pin to a sheet to special care in handling since they may help stabilize. shift, stretch, and ravel. These fabrics are lovely, but take patience. If the fabric is a knit, such as jersey or tricot, remember it can stretch in one or both directions. Jersey also runs, and both jersey and tricot are easily snagged • Lay pattern pieces as if you are by rough surfaces and hands. working with a napped fabric. Use a “With nap” layout view. Soft lightweight woven fabrics, such as crepe, are also classified as fluid fabrics. They come in many textures, fibers, and fabrics. PATTERN SELECTION When selecting a pattern, remember to . let the fabric speak for itself. Select a • Position pattern pieces so that the pattern that is softly draped and loosely greatest stretch in knit goes around fitted. Your best guide will be a pattern the body. that recommends the use of a soft fabric. If using a knitted fabric avoid a pattern with a circular skirt or one that is bias cut, as the fabric will stretch creating an uneven hemline. FABRIC PREPARATION • When working with knits, crepes, and • Launder fabrics that are washable to dark wovens lay all pattern pieces in relax the yarns and to remove excess the same direction to avoid directional finishing. shading. • Press to remove fold lines • If knit fabric runs, place the pattern • Fold woven fabrics matching pieces so the runs will be up the selvages and carefully fold along a garment, not down. -
Clothing Terms from Around the World
Clothing terms from around the world A Afghan a blanket or shawl of coloured wool knitted or crocheted in strips or squares. Aglet or aiglet is the little plastic or metal cladding on the end of shoelaces that keeps the twine from unravelling. The word comes from the Latin word acus which means needle. In times past, aglets were usually made of metal though some were glass or stone. aiguillette aglet; specifically, a shoulder cord worn by designated military aides. A-line skirt a skirt with panels fitted at the waist and flaring out into a triangular shape. This skirt suits most body types. amice amice a liturgical vestment made of an oblong piece of cloth usually of white linen and worn about the neck and shoulders and partly under the alb. (By the way, if you do not know what an "alb" is, you can find it in this glossary...) alb a full-length white linen ecclesiastical vestment with long sleeves that is gathered at the waist with a cincture aloha shirt Hawaiian shirt angrakha a long robe with an asymmetrical opening in the chest area reaching down to the knees worn by males in India anklet a short sock reaching slightly above the ankle anorak parka anorak apron apron a garment of cloth, plastic, or leather tied around the waist and used to protect clothing or adorn a costume arctic a rubber overshoe reaching to the ankle or above armband a band usually worn around the upper part of a sleeve for identification or in mourning armlet a band, as of cloth or metal, worn around the upper arm armour defensive covering for the body, generally made of metal, used in combat.