Dress Base Fdiii121 Table of Content
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS DRESS BASE FDIII121 TABLE OF CONTENT
Pattern pieces ...... 3 Pattern block ...... 4
SEWING ...... 5 1. Basting the dress ...... 6 2. Darts ...... 6 3. Shoulder seams ...... 7 4. Side seams ...... 7 5. Center back seam ...... 8 6. Sleeves ...... 8
DRESS BASE FDIII121 Page 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS PATTERN PIECES
Sleeve 1 Sleeve 2
Dress Dress Dress Front Back 2 Back 1
DRESS FABRIC PIECES
Dress Front Dress Back 1 Dress Back 2 Sleeve 1 Sleeve 2
DRESS BASE FDIII121 Page 3 PATTERN PIECES FDIII121 DRESS BASE pleat openings,etc.),the morethesidelineshouldbestraightened. is belowthehipline.The extensionisreparableaermodications. Themorearetheskirts(rotations, 6. Kneelengthdresswithouttaperinginatthe hemline.Theextensionforthewidesthipcircumference the sleevecapeaseisvariable. 5. Mediumwidthsleevewithnarrowingatthe elbowlevel.Dependingonyourupperarmcircumference, 4. Thedresshastheclosureatcenterback seam. darts -fromonetotwo. main dartmaybelong.Dependingonyourchestcircumference garmentcanincludeseveralbust three atthebackandfromzerototwo front.Forthevolumeofthighprotrusion(thigh), the 3. Dependingonyourbodymeasurementsgarmentcanincludeseveralwaistdarts - fromoneto ence +3/4”(2cm);hipcircumferencechestcm). 2. Thedressbaseinclude3/8”(1cm)amountofallowanceforeaseandcomfort:Yourwaist circumfer- lines orseamallowance. elaborate design.Blockareconstructedusingyourindividualmeasurementsanddonot show anystyle 1. Ablockisatwodimensionaltemplateforbasicgarmentfromthatcanbemodiedinto amore darts bust side seam
bottom thigh line hip line waistline bust line waist darts center front armscye
side seam side seam dart shoulder
PATTERN BLOCK waistline bottom thigh line hip line bust line torso line P age center back center back 4 torso line bust line bottom shoulder dart waist darts back head side seam
back seamline dart elbow
bottom dart leg
intake front seamline front head dart center dart
PATTERN BLOCK front seamline bottom dart elbow
back seamline back head SEWING
Fabric key Fabric recommendations:
Challis Viscose Challis Suiting Tencel Twill
Medium (6oz-8oz / 204g - 272g)
Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Elastane 0 - 3 % fabric fabric interfacing
Laying out and cutting fabric
selvage in bias grain a r g s s o grain line r c selvage =” =” lengthwise grain selvage
1. Place the fabric on the table. 2. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper. 5. Add seam allowances. You can add your seam allowance directly onto your fabric or onto paper rst. Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length.
DRESS BASE FDIII121 Page 5 SEWING 1. BASTING THE DRESS
1.1
Baste the dress for a possible tting. The dress can be basted in the following order: 1. Baste the darts; 2. Sew all the seams; 3. Use safety pins to close up the closure, to look at the prototype (muslin) results.
2. DARTS
2.1
darts
Depending on your body measurements your garment can include several darts. The total amount of darts may dier from the technical drawing.
2.2
stitch direction
Fold the dart. Match the notches and dart lines (fold by dart center line). Sew the darts. Sew starting at the raw edge.
DRESS BASE FDIII121 Page 6 SEWING 2.3
press toward the center Press the darts - shoulder and waist darts should be pressed toward the center but bust darts toward the hem. Always start at the broad end on the dart and press toward the point.
3. SHOULDER SEAMS
3.1
The total amount of ease is 1/4” (5 mm)
Place the front and back of the dress together at the shoulder seams. The back shoulder edge is longer than the front. When you sew shoulder seams, you need gather back shoulder seam.
4. SIDE SEAMS
4.1
Sew the dress side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and seamlines.
DRESS BASE FDIII121 Page 7 SEWING 5. CENTER BACK SEAM
5.1
2/3 between waist and hip level start back closure
The dress has the closure at the center back seam. Sew the center back seam with the right sides together to the notch.
6. SLEEVE
6.1
Sewing the sleeve seams, between the notches, the back seam needs to be gathered. The total amount of ease is 5/8” (1.5 cm). Sewing the sleeve seams, the front seam needs stretching. The total amount of stretch should not be more than 3/8” (1 cm). Sew the back sleeve seam to the front sleeve seam, with the right sides together. Press the seams. notches
6.2
1/5 1/5
1/5 1/5
The base construction of the armscye has notches for sewing the sleeve and the picture shows how the ease is distributed 1/5 between them. This is a place where the sleeve is never held in order to avoid front back unnecessary cross-creases in the upper arm of the sleeve.
DRESS BASE FDIII121 Page 8 SEWING 6.3
1. 2.
The highest ease is required between the center and the front 1st control point, while the lowest is between the 1st and 2nd front control point.
6.4
Run two rows of machine gathering stitches between the notches on the sleeve cap. Place one row on the seamline, and the other row 1/8” (3 mm) outside of the stitching line toward the raw edge. Pin the sleeve into the armscye, matching all the markings. Draw up the gathering threads so that the sleeve ts perfectly into the armscye. Distribute the fullness evenly. Remove the sleeve from the garment. Fasten the gathering threads. Stitch seam, holding sleeve topmost. Control the distribution of ease and stitch straight. * In the construction method, the sleeve sewing seam is not equivalent to the bodice side seam. Sleeve and side seams do not need to be aligned.
DRESS BASE FDIII121 Page 9 SEWING