SEWING INSTRUCTIONS DRESS BASE FDIII121 TABLE OF CONTENT Pattern pieces . 3 Pattern block . 4 SEWING . 5 1. Basting the dress . 6 2. Darts . 6 3. Shoulder seams . 7 4. Side seams . 7 5. Center back seam . 8 6. Sleeves . 8 DRESS BASE FDIII121 Page 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS PATTERN PIECES Sleeve 1 Sleeve 2 Dress Dress Dress Front Back 2 Back 1 DRESS FABRIC PIECES Dress Front Dress Back 1 Dress Back 2 Sleeve 1 Sleeve 2 DRESS BASE FDIII121 Page 3 PATTERN PIECES PATTERN BLOCK back front back head head head shoulder shoulder dart dart elbow elbow dart dart bust darts armscye torso line torso line center back center back center front bust line bust line bust line front seamline front front seamline front bottom back seamline back bottom back seamline waistline waistline dart waist waist intake darts darts hip line hip line thigh line thigh line dart dart leg center side seam side seam side seam side seam side bottom bottom bottom 1. A block is a two dimensional template for a basic garment from that can be modied into a more elaborate design. Block are constructed using your individual measurements and do not show any style lines or seam allowance. 2. The dress base include 3/8” (1 cm) amount of allowance for ease and comfort: Your waist circumfer- ence + 3/4” (2 cm); hip circumference + 3/4” (2 cm); chest circumference + 3/4” (2 cm). 3. Depending on your body measurements your garment can include several waist darts - from one to three at the back and from zero to two at the front. For the volume of the thigh protrusion (thigh), the main dart may be long. Depending on your chest circumference your garment can include several bust darts - from one to two. 4. The dress has the closure at the center back seam. 5. Medium width sleeve with narrowing at the elbow level. Depending on your upper arm circumference, the sleeve cap ease is variable. 6. Knee length dress without tapering in at the hemline. The extension for the widest hip circumference is below the hip line. The extension is reparable aer modications. The more are the skirts (rotations, pleat openings, etc.), the more the side line should be straightened. DRESS BASE FDIII121 Page 4 PATTERN BLOCK SEWING Fabric key Fabric recommendations: Challis Viscose Challis Suiting Tencel Twill Medium (6oz-8oz / 204g - 272g) Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Elastane 0 - 3 % fabric fabric interfacing Laying out and cutting fabric selvage in bias grain a r g s s o grain line r c selvage =” =” lengthwise grain selvage 1. Place the fabric on the table. 2. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper. 5. Add seam allowances. You can add your seam allowance directly onto your fabric or onto paper rst. Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. DRESS BASE FDIII121 Page 5 SEWING 1. BASTING THE DRESS 1.1 Baste the dress for a possible tting. The dress can be basted in the following order: 1. Baste the darts; 2. Sew all the seams; 3. Use safety pins to close up the closure, to look at the prototype (muslin) results. 2. DARTS 2.1 darts Depending on your body measurements your garment can include several darts. The total amount of darts may dier from the technical drawing. 2.2 stitch direction Fold the dart. Match the notches and dart lines (fold by dart center line). Sew the darts. Sew starting at the raw edge. DRESS BASE FDIII121 Page 6 SEWING 2.3 press toward the center Press the darts - shoulder and waist darts should be pressed toward the center but bust darts toward the hem. Always start at the broad end on the dart and press toward the point. 3. SHOULDER SEAMS 3.1 The total amount of ease is 1/4” (5 mm) Place the front and back of the dress together at the shoulder seams. The back shoulder edge is longer than the front. When you sew shoulder seams, you need gather back shoulder seam. 4. SIDE SEAMS 4.1 Sew the dress side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and seamlines. DRESS BASE FDIII121 Page 7 SEWING 5. CENTER BACK SEAM 5.1 2/3 between waist and hip level start back closure The dress has the closure at the center back seam. Sew the center back seam with the right sides together to the notch. 6. SLEEVE 6.1 Sewing the sleeve seams, between the notches, the back seam needs to be gathered. The total amount of ease is 5/8” (1.5 cm). Sewing the sleeve seams, the front seam needs stretching. The total amount of stretch should not be more than 3/8” (1 cm). Sew the back sleeve seam to the front sleeve seam, with the right sides together. Press the seams. notches 6.2 1/5 1/5 1/5 1/5 The base construction of the armscye has notches for sewing the sleeve and the picture shows how the ease is distributed 1/5 between them. This is a place where the sleeve is never held in order to avoid front back unnecessary cross-creases in the upper arm of the sleeve. DRESS BASE FDIII121 Page 8 SEWING 6.3 1. 2. The highest ease is required between the center and the front 1st control point, while the lowest is between the 1st and 2nd front control point. 6.4 Run two rows of machine gathering stitches between the notches on the sleeve cap. Place one row on the seamline, and the other row 1/8” (3 mm) outside of the stitching line toward the raw edge. Pin the sleeve into the armscye, matching all the markings. Draw up the gathering threads so that the sleeve ts perfectly into the armscye. Distribute the fullness evenly. Remove the sleeve from the garment. Fasten the gathering threads. Stitch seam, holding sleeve topmost. Control the distribution of ease and stitch straight. * In the construction method, the sleeve sewing seam is not equivalent to the bodice side seam. Sleeve and side seams do not need to be aligned. DRESS BASE FDIII121 Page 9 SEWING.