Tonbi) LACMA Costume and Textiles Pattern Project

UNDERTAKING THE MAKING: REIGNING MEN Man’s Overcoat (Tonbi) LACMA Costume and Textiles Pattern Project

Man’s Overcoat (Tonbi) during the Taisho¯ ( –) and . The beaver fur collar is slightly Japan, Taisho¯ period ( –) early Sho¯wa ( –) periods among padded and underlined with black to Sho¯wa period ( –); intellectuals, professionals, and the wool plain weave, full finish, with – wealthy, who often added a Western- horizontal stitches at the collar stand Wool plain weave, full finish, and style hat and walking stick or umbrella and broad zigzag stitches at the top beaver fur, sheared and dyed to their kimono ensemble. The con- of the collar fall. A felt under-collar Gift of B. Rich cealed center-front button closures melton is attached along the edge. M. . . and sweeping construction created . The armscye openings are long a fluid silhouette that was more Western to accommodate kimono sleeves; The Inverness coat, a sleeveless overcoat in make but Japanese in aesthetic. the interior front edges are bound with a hip-length shoulder cape, was in black silk velvet. The hip-length introduced to Japan during the late Edo NOTES: shoulder cape sleeves are raglan period ( – ). There, it was modi- . Fabric grain follows vertical lines in construction with back edges sewn fied with enlarged armscye openings of graph paper. along the back of the deep armscye. from the shoulderline to the waistline . Pattern pieces are drawn without The bottom edges are folded under. to accommodate the wide sleeves of seam allowance. . Narrow double-welt slash pockets a kimono. From the front, the shoulder . The center-front closes with five are at each side-front. A small cape appears to be constructed in -inch-diameter buttons and five slash ticket pocket and larger flap a whole semicircle independent from ⅜-inch-long buttonholes, with pocket are at the proper left upper the coat, attached only at the neckline a large hook and bar at the collar, interior side; the flap pocket, made under the beaver collar; but when viewed and an additional -inch-diameter of the black silk satin lining fabric, from the back, the cape is sewn at each button and ⅜-inch-long buttonhole is secured with a ½-inch-diameter side back behind the long armholes in at the top shoulder cape. All buttons button and ¾-inch-long buttonhole. an extended raglan sleeve construction. are attached along the proper right This sleeve detail, similar to dolman- . The body of the coat, cape sleeves, center-front opening and all button- style overcoats from the late th century, and center-front facings are of black holes are along the proper left center- would have kept the cape in place. wool plain weave, full finish; the front hidden plackets, concealing Popularly known as tonbi (black cape sleeves and interior coat are all buttons. hawk), the overcoats were made of lined with black silk satin. imported wool and were fashionable . The center back is cut on the fold. Overcoat (Tonbi)

UPPER COLLAR BEAVER FUR

CB (cut on fold)

UNDER COLLAR

CB (cut on fold) Collar ends Hidden Hook-and-bar here placket Horizontal and zigzag stitches

CB (cut on fold) PL Ticket CB pocket CF Tacks CF UNDER COLLAR MELTON PL Flap at PL pocket placket

Slash pocket

(Buttons on PR side) Shoulder cape ends PL POCKET here FLAP

FRONT BACK

FRONT FACING

Back shoulder seam ends here

Collar ends here Hidden placket

SHOULDER SHOULDER CAPE CAPE FACING

Key: 1:1 inch CF Center Front CB Center Back PL Proper Left PR Proper Right Stitches Button placement