Carli Coatigan ______

Ladies XXS to 5XL

What’s Inside ______

Getting Started 4 Printing Your Pattern 5 Settings 5 How to Print Only the Size You Need (Using Layers) 6 Printing the Instructions 6 Carli Coatigan 7 Size Chart 7 Finished Garment Measurements 8 Materials & Tools 9 Cutting Instructions 10 Fabric Tips 11 Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics 11 Quick-Glance Cheat Sheet 12 Sewing Instructions 13 Preparation 13 STEP 1 – Back Darts 13 STEP 2 – OPTIONAL Pockets 16 STEP 3 – Back Seam 19 STEP 4 – Shoulder and Back Neck Seam 21 STEP 5 – Sleeves 23 STEP 6 – OPTIONAL Belt 25 STEP 7 – OPTIONAL Hemming 29 Pattern Pieces 33

Website rebecca-page.com

Facebook Page facebook.com/rebeccapageofficial

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Newsletter rebecca-page.com/newsletter

Email [email protected]

YouTube youtube.com/user/rebeccapage1

Product Sales & Licensing Information ______

This pattern is copyrighted 2019 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com.

Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we’d love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it’s up to you.

The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.

Best of luck and happy sewing!

Getting Started ______

Need help? Have a question?

Join our Facebook Group at https://www.facebook.com/groups/mummykinsandme/

You can get help, ask questions, share your tips and shortcuts and share your creations! We’re a friendly bunch and we love helping out and seeing what you’ve made. 

Before you get started…

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Make sure to wash, dry and press your fabric before you cut out your pattern pieces. Fabric can often shrink by significant amounts on the first wash. To avoid your beautiful creation ending up an inch too small or twisted out of shape, pre-wash the fabric now before you get started. It might be a pain if you just want to start straight away, but a bit of prep now means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons or anything they could remove, choke on or get caught on. Never let them sleep in garments with ties on and use caution if you are at all unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Printing Your Pattern ______

Settings

The pattern is printed at the back of this booklet. It is designed to be printed on A4 sized paper at 100%. If you wish to print on US Letter paper, please download the US Letter size version. Make sure that the “fit to page” option is not checked on your printer options.

On the first page, you will find a 1-inch square test box. Print this page first on its own and check the measurements of the square. Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, you can print the rest of the pattern pages.

This is a “no-trim” pattern which means you don’t need to trim the edges off around the rectangles unless you wish to. Once you’ve printed your pattern, tape the rectangles together using the diagram here for reference, overlapping the circles in each corner. Each page is marked in the bottom left corner. The numbers go across; the letters go downwards. The first row of pages will be A1, A2, A3 and so on. The row below that B1, B2, B3 and so on.

The sizes are differentiated by both different line styles, and different colors. It is up to you whether you wish to print in color, or in black and white.

Print at 100% (no scale), in black and white or color

Ladies’ Print Chart – A4

Thigh length Calf Length XXS – 5XL 33-71 35-76

How to Print Only the Size You Need (Using Layers)

This pattern uses layers so you can print only the sizes you want. Open the pattern in Adobe Reader (not your internet browser). Click on the “layers” button on the very left of the screen. Unselect all sizes except the size you want. Leave the “Common Elements” and “Splitting Layer” on. Then print!

NOTE – In this example only size 18-24 months would print.

Printing the Instructions

The instructions are designed for everyone from beginner upwards, so there are a LOT of pictures throughout the instructions. For this reason, some people do not print these in full (however you can if you wish!). If, however, you want to print a one page quick-glance cheat sheet (no photos, intermediate / advanced level instructions), you will find this on page 12.

Carli Coatigan ______

Difficulty Level = Beginner

A mix between a coat and a cardigan, the Carli Coatigan is super comfy with a loose fit, long sleeves, and finishes either thigh or calf length. It can be worn without a belt to create a flowy waterfall effect in the front. Or, wear it crossed over with a belt.

Carli’s high back collar and lack of side seams emphasize the front flow of the front waterfall effect. The back darts help cinch in the waist – add the optional belt to pull in the waist even more. The optional pockets are perfect for keeping your hands warm.

Size Chart

This pattern has been designed to fit the following sizes:

Ladies’ Size Chart Chest Waist Hips Inches CM Inches CM Inches CM XXS 30 – 31 71 – 79 24 – 25 61 – 63.5 33 – 34 84 – 86 XS 32 – 33 81 – 84 26 – 27 66 – 68.5 35 – 36 89 – 91.5 S 34 – 35 86 – 89 27 – 28 68.5 – 71 37 – 38 94 – 96.5 M 36 – 37 91.5 – 94 29 – 30 73.5 – 76 39 – 40 99 – 101.5 L 38 – 39 96.5 – 99 31 – 32 79 – 81 41 – 42 104 – 106.5 XL 40 – 42 101.5 – 106.5 33 – 35 84 – 86 43 – 45 109 – 114 XXL 43 – 45 109 – 114 36 – 38 91 – 96.5 46 – 48 117 – 122 3XL 46 – 48 117 – 122 39 – 42 99 – 106.5 49 – 51 124.5 – 129.5 4XL 49 – 51 124.5 – 129.5 43 – 46 109 – 117 52 – 54 132 – 137 5XL 52 – 54 132 – 137 47 – 50 119 – 127 55 – 57 140 – 145

Finished Garment Measurements

Ladies' Finished Garment Measurements (in INCHES) Thigh Length Calf Length Sleeve Waist Hip Chest Bicep (Center Back (Center Back to Length to Hem) Hem) XXS 43.3 45.6 46 12.3 23.4 29 39 XS 45.3 47.6 48 13.3 23.6 29.4 39.4 S 46.6 49.4 50 14 24 30 40 M 48.6 51.4 52 15.3 24.2 30.3 40.3 L 51 53.3 54.5 16 24.5 30.7 40.7 XL 53.4 57.3 57.5 17 24.7 31.1 41.1 XXL 56 60.3 60.5 18 25 31.5 41.5 3XL 59.6 63.4 63.5 18.6 25.1 32 42 4XL 63.3 66.4 66.5 19.6 25.2 32.2 42.3 5XL 67.6 69.5 70 20.6 25 32.5 42.7

Fitting Notes: • The Coatigan is a loose fitting garment designed to be worn over your clothing. The back darts with optional belt add shape to the waist. • Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart. • Picking your size – Choose your size from the size chart measurements. Waist, hip and chest finished measurements are bigger than the size chart due to the loose, wrap around, waterfall effect. If your chest and waist measurements are in different sizes, pick your size by your chest measurement. That way the armhole, bust and neckline will sit correctly. Print your pattern with both your chest size and waist size visible and grade either in or out at the back waist (indicated by the back dart) - draw a gentle line between both sizes at the back waist. • Adjusting bust – The ladies sizes are designed with a C cup bust (approximately, a ready-to-wear B cup). Given that the Coatigan is designed for knit/stretch fabrics and the front has a waterfall lapel, it will be quite forgiving. Cup sizes A to D should fit well in it. However, if you have over a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). There are several great tutorials online how to do this with knit. Our favorite ones are in the link at the bottom of this section. • Adjusting height – The Coatigan is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller/shorter you may need to add/remove length at the armscye, the hem and the sleeves. Follow this tutorial to adjust through the body (https://rebecca-page.com/product/bodice-height-adjustment-tutorial/) • Sleeve length – Compare the finished measurements of the sleeve to your model’s measurements. If you need to shorten or lengthen the sleeve, add/remove length half way down the sleeve. • Bicep – Check your measurement against the finished measurement chart. The sleeve is not tight fitting so you most likely will not need to make any adjustments. After you’ve made your muslin, if you need to make the bicep bigger/smaller refer to our adjustment tutorial here. • Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment. I would recommend the following as you muslin this blouse: o Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use. o Cut out the front/back and one sleeve. Label each piece with tailors chalk/fabric pen so you know what each piece is. Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance o Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment. o If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy.

o Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches. o Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment. Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more! • If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources at https://pinterest.com/rebeccajpage/sewing-fitting-advice/

Materials & Tools

• Your fabric for this pattern needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight, however best results and fit will be achieved with a medium weight 2-way stretch fabric. Great examples are sweater knits, jersey, stretch fleece, and stretch French terry. Warmer and heavier fabrics such as sweater knits, hacci knits, stretch wool and interlock will give a snugger, cosier look. • The other property to consider is how open the weave is. A tighter weave such as jersey will give a more solid look than a more open weave such as a stretch wool or some sweater knits which can look more like a knitted garment. • Your fabric will need to have at least 30% stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 30% longer than its original length, then it has at least 30% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of unstretched fabric should be able to be stretched to 2.6 inches.

Fabric Requirements (in YARDS)

60 inch / 150cm wide fabric XXS 2.5 XS 2.5 S 2.5 M 2.5 L 3 XL 3 XXL 3 3XL 3.5 4XL 4 5XL 4

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print or a fabric with nap you may need more.

You will also need: • Thread to match • Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, and tape measure.

Cutting Instructions ______

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces are below:

Ladies Cutting Chart (in INCHES) OPTIONAL Pockets (Cut 2) OPTIONAL Belt (Cut 2) OPTIONAL Belt Loops (Cut 2) Width Length Width Length Width Length XXS 8.6 10.5 3.5 37 2 4 XS 8.6 10.5 3.5 37.5 2 4 S 8.6 10.5 3.5 38 2 4 M 8.6 10.5 3.5 39 2 4 L 8.6 10.5 3.5 41 2 4 XL 8.6 10.5 3.5 41.5 2 4 XXL 8.6 10.5 3.5 43 2 4 3XL 8.6 10.5 3.5 45 2 4 4XL 8.6 10.5 3.5 47 2 4 5XL 8.6 10.5 3.5 49 2 4

Cutting Checklist:

• Bodice – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair) • Sleeve – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair) • OPTIONAL Pockets – Cut 2 • OPTIONAL Belt Loops – Cut 2 • OPTIONAL Belt – Cut 2

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric in half. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges will be at a right angle to your fold.

Fabric Tips ______

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

On a REGULAR sewing machine

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine. • Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches. • Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right. • Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle. • Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine. • Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you. • Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use. From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

Quick-Glance Cheat Sheet (full step-by-step tutorial starts on next page) ______

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch

Preparation – 1. Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric.

Sewing – 1. Back Darts – Right sides together, match dart markings. Stitch from the center of the dart to the folded edge of the fabric. Clip into the middle of the dart. Press toward center back. Repeat for back dart on other Bodice. 2. OPTIONAL Pockets – Press bottom and side edges of Pocket ⅜ inch to the wrong side. Press top edge ½ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch close to raw edge along top of Pocket. Align pocket on front of Coatigan. Topstitch along sides and bottom. Repeat for pocket on other Bodice. 3. Back Seam – Right sides together, stitch center back seam. Press to one side. Repeat for back neck seam. 4. Shoulder and Neck Seam – Starting at one side, match and pin shoulder seam and center back seams. Repeat for second side. Stitch along entire seam and press the seam allowance toward the back bodice. 5. Sleeves – Create a memory hem by pressing ½ inch to the wrong side. Unfold memory hem. Align and sew underarm seam. Mark the center of the Sleeve head. Right sides together, slide the Sleeve into the Coatigan, matching the underarm seam with the marking, and the pin with the shoulder seam. Sew sleeve in place. Repeat for second Sleeve. 6. OPTIONAL Belt – Fold Belt Loop piece as double fold bias tape and topstitch closed. Fold short ends under ¼ inch and press. Align on Coatigan per pattern markings. Zig-zag stitch along both short ends. Repeat for second Belt Loop. Right sides together, sew short ends of Belt pieces. Fold the belt in half, right sides together, matching up the long raw edges and stitch, leaving a 2-inch gap. Clip corners and turn right sides out. Press and topstitch. 7. Hem – Refold memory hem on sleeve and stitch. Press top neck edge, both front edges, and bottom edge ½ inch to the wrong side. Stitch close to the folded edge all the way around.

Sewing Instructions ______

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch

Preparation

Pattern markings – Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk.

STEP 1 – Back Darts

There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.

1.1 Lay one of the Bodice pieces wrong side up on your ironing board.

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with your fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the four corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.

Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the four pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have four pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.

1.2 Draw the dart in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen. Keep the four pins in the fabric at the corner points.

Repeat for the back dart on the other Bodice.

1.3 With right sides together, fold the fabric back down the centerline of the dart.

Stitch from the middle of the dart at its widest and sew toward one point.

At this stage, you will have only stitched one half of one dart.

TIP – To get a very neat dart without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure then trim the threads to approximately ½ inch long.

NOTE – The reason we use directional stitching here is that it helps preserve the grainline. In the case of a double pointed dart like these back ones, it gives you more control over the angle as you approach the point

and ensures that you’re not starting to stitch at the edge of the fabric.

1.4 Stitch along the dart line markings from the folded edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart.

1.5 Clip into the middle of the dart.

TIP – Do not snip too close or you’ll end up with a hole! Just go far enough to help the point sit flat when you turn it right side out. To secure the snip, you can add fray check.

TIP – Use the very end of your scissors for maximum control. If you use mid-way through the blade, you’ll have less control and are much more likely to accidentally cut through your stitching.

1.6 Press the dart towards the center back.

1.7 Repeat steps 1.2 to 1.6 for the back dart on the other Bodice.

STEP 2 – OPTIONAL Pockets

If you aren’t adding pockets, skip to step 3.

2.1 Place your Pocket piece wrong side facing up. Press the bottom and each side of the Pocket ⅜ inch to the wrong side.

2.2 Press the top of the Pocket ½ inch to the wrong side.

TIP – The folded edges need to be tucked inside the finished pockets. Once you’ve pressed, turn the Pocket over and check it from the right side. If you can see any folded or raw edges poking out from your rectangle, fold them under and press again.

2.3 Topstitch close to the raw edge of the top of the Pocket. You are aiming to catch the folded raw edges, so it doesn’t unfold when using the pocket.

2.4 If you have a method you are more familiar with for transferring the pocket placements, please use this. I use the same technique as I did for the waist darts.

Place a Bodice right side up on your ironing board. Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with your fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the four corner points of the pocket, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.

Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of

the four pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have four pins marking each of the corner points of the pocket.

2.5 Draw the pocket in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen. Keep the four pins in the fabric at the corner points.

2.6 Place your Bodice piece right sides facing up. Using the pattern markings, place the Pocket right sides facing up. Pin in place.

2.7 Topstitch approximately ⅛ inch from the folded edge down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side of the Pocket.

NOTE – Do not sew the top edge your Pocket.

OPTIONAL – Use a dense and narrow zigzag at each end of the seam to secure the Pocket.

2.8 Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.7 for the Pocket on the other Bodice.

STEP 3 – Back Seam

3.1 Place the Bodice pieces right sides together. Pin along the back seam.

NOTE – The back seam is the seam closest to the back darts.

3.2 Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.

3.3 Press the seam allowance to one side.

3.4 With right sides together, pin along the center back neck seam.

3.5 Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.

3.6 Press the seam allowance to the same side you pressed the seam in step 3.3.

STEP 4 – Shoulder and Back Neck Seam

4.1 With the Bodice facing wrong sides up, take one side of the Bodice and fold it under, right sides together, matching the shoulder seams and the back neck seams.

Repeat for the other side. You will now have one long seam from shoulder to shoulder, creating the armholes.

4.2 Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.

4.3 Press the seam allowance to the back.

STEP 5 – Sleeves

5.1 You will be creating a memory hem in this step.

Fold the bottom of the Sleeve ½ inch to the wrong side and press. This will create a memory hem.

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the garment. It’s

much easier to do this now, than to try and press the Sleeve hem later when the Sleeve is stitched into a circle.

5.2 Unfold the memory hem.

Fold the Sleeve in half, right sides together. Pin together.

5.3 Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.

5.4 With the right sides together, insert the Sleeve into the armscye matching the shoulder seam with the center marking on the Sleeve. Pin together.

5.5 Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.

5.6 Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.6 for the second Sleeve.

STEP 6 – OPTIONAL Belt

If you aren’t adding a belt, skip to step 7. 6.1 Fold your Belt Loop piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press.

6.2 Open the Belt Loop and fold the raw edges into the center, wrong sides together, meeting at the center fold you made in the previous step. Press.

6.3 Fold in half again, along your original fold line. Press.

6.4 Topstitch close to the open long edge using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

6.5 Fold each end under ⅜ inch and press.

6.6 Align the belt loop, with the folded edges facing down, to the markings on the Coatigan. Pin.

6.7 Using a narrow zig-zag stitch, sew along each short edge to attach the Belt Loop to the Coatigan, catching the folded over edges.

6.8 Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.7 for the second belt loop.

6.9 With the right sides together, pin the Belt pieces together at the short edge.

6.10 Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.

Press the seam open.

6.11 Fold the belt in half, right sides together, matching up the long raw edges and pin.

6.12 Using a ½ inch seam allowance, sew all the way around the raw edges, leaving a 2-inch gap in the long side for turning.

6.13 Clip the corners to reduce bulk.

NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, you just cut straight across the corner, close to but not touching the stitching.

6.14 Turn Belt right side out.

There are several ways to do this. If you have a preferred method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it with a loop turner.

Insert the loop turner inside the Belt until it reaches the other end. Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards toward the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the Belt so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you’ve turned the Belt right side out completely.

6.15 Topstitch around all sides of the Belt, using a ⅛ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.

STEP 7 – OPTIONAL Hemming

You can leave the raw edges of the Coatigan, which will create a better drape, especially at the front waterfall. Hemming can hamper the drape and sit stiffer. The hem of both the sleeves and bottom of the Coatigan can also be left raw. An alternative to the below is sewing a rolled hem.

However, if you would like to hem the raw edges, follow the steps below.

7.1 Using the memory hem you created in step 5.1, fold the Sleeve hem back to the wrong side.

OPTIONAL – Finish the raw edge of the fabric with a serger or a mock overlock stitch on a regular sewing machine before turning it under.

7.2 Topstitch just under ½ from the fold, using a stretch stitch, twin needle, or coverstitch.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.2 for the other Sleeve.

7.3 You will be hemming the neck, center front and bottom of the Coatigan.

Fold the neckline ½ inch towards the wrong side and press.

Pin in place.

NOTE – The neckline is the straight edge with the center back neck seam in the middle.

TIP – You may find it easier to hem the neck, center front and bottom hem all in one. Press all of these and pin in place. Starting at the center back neck seam, stitch along the neckline, down the center front and along the bottom hem, then up the center front and along the neckline.

7.4 Topstitch approximately ½ inch from the folded edge using a stretch stitch, twin needle, or coverstitch.

7.5 Repeat steps 7.3 to 7.4 for the center front hem on each side of the Coatigan.

7.6 Repeat steps 7.3 to 7.4 for the bottom hem.

Congratulations, your Carli Coatigan is done. Enjoy! ♥

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