A Study on Adapting Patterns to Stable Knit Fabrics in Relation to Drapability
Mi-Ryong Song and Soo-Yung Yang* Professor, Dept, of Fashion Design, DongDuck Women's University •Instructor, Dept, of Clothing and Textile, Dong-A University
Abstract
This research focused on pattern 碱ustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen deferent types 紡 the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one haff of the front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line and the hemline were basted on 血 torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale sd course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to Jinished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat k涌 garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable 成 乩 The res니 ts fmm the investigation reve읺 ed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause offinal appearance distortion of garment. Whs adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of 血 fabrics should be taken into c이 诫如 mion to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.
Key words : stable knit fabrics, drapability, pattern adjustments, 12 gauge computerizedflat bed machines, final appearance q广 garment. . knitted fabrics: weft knits and warp knits. I - Introduction Each uses different kinds of machinery for producing fabric and each produces different There are two main classifications of types of fabrics11.
E-mail: [email protected] 1 Pizzuto, Joseph J. Fabric Science. (New York: Fairchild Publications, 1979), 153.
—174 — V이. 2 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 81
Weft knits are made as either flat or open design system that is e辻her accompanied by with fabrics like woven fabrics on so called or attached to the computerized knitting flat knitting machines or as tubular fabrics machine. Without full understanding of the like a seamless stocking on circular knitting knitting process of the machinery, designers machines2). can create sophisticated designs with ease. The great popularity of knitted febrics The computerized knitted fabrics become largely results from their fashion versatility. stable enough to apply cut & sew method41 The ability of designers and producers to after setting. More value-oriented knitwear provide all sorts of color effects and can be produced utilizing these knitted interesting and novel surface effects in a wide fabrics. variety of knit fabrics is the continuing When designing knitwear, the shape reten consumer demand for knitted fabric apparel. tion must be given a top priority considering The computer controlled knitting machines fabric characteristics. By the time production are the most modern systems for creating patterns are drafted, it is important to design in knitted fabrics. These machines minimize problems that can be encountered have had a profound impact on the knitting diiring the garment construction process due industry since they allow designers and to fabric shrinkage or stretch & recovery producers more flexibility. factors. The corr^uterized flat knitting machines Considering the shrinkage factor and the having less complicated mechanism than their other the stretch & recovery factor is an counterpart, the circular knitting machines, established method used for adapting a give designers unlimited design scopes. pattern to knit fabrics by Armstrong5、In Design effects can be achieved by electro- fact, it is good for jerseys, and knit fabrics mechanically controlling how knitting needles with measurable and definite amount of will behave when a yarn passes by them stretch. However, applying this method to during the knitting process. These machines the sample fabrics used in this research can achieve unlimited pattern designs and requires a few steps of pattern adjustments surface effects. because of their febric characteristics caused by On the 12 gauge machine, there are 12 fiber contents. Even though the sample numbers of needles per 1 inch. From 12 to 16 fabrics are stabilized, they still carry their gauge is regarded as fine gauge that perfectly own characteristics as knits. And more over, fits the need for high fashion women's wear. they are knitted on the 12 gauge knitting On the computerized flat knitting machines, machines, which require limited thickness of 12 gauge is the most popular of all since it has yarn that can go through the yarn feeders. more productivity compared to other high Also they are from a high fashion knitwear gauges, and also the machines are widely firm which specializes in women's wear. For spread in South Korea3) *. these reasons, the types of yarn used are Above all, the jacquard system is the most wool, acrylic, nylon, cotton, rayon and ramie sophisticated and versatile of the various Wiich are known for good drapability or patterning mechanisms. Jacquard knits can heavier weight compared to other fibers. be easily programmed on the computerized There must be the third method to
2 Ibid. 흐 569pcs., ^Sewater News', 30 September 1999, 1. 4 Gartshore, Linda. The Machine Knitters Dictionary. (New York: St. Martain*s Press, 1983), 50. 3 Armstrong, Helen J. Patternmaking for Fashion Design. (New York: Harper & Row Publishers Inc , 1987), 623.
-175 - 82 A Study on Adapting Patterns to Stable Knit Fabrics in Relation to Drapability IJCC manipulate the types of fabric used in this such as fiber contents, stitch density, weight, research. Above all, it should be a timesaving thickness, stretch & recovery, residual procedure for manufecturing finished shrinkage, relaxation are laboratory tested. garments in these kinds of knitted fabrics. 2. Preparing Tgao Patterns H. Theoretical Background 1) 14 dress forms all in size 10 are ready. 2) The torso pattern is cut in 14 different According to Armstrong, two different knitted fabrics all at the same time by a methods are used for adapting patterns to professional cutter who has been in the knitted fabrics. One takes into consideration field for 24 years. the shrinkage factor of the knit and the other 3) The torso pattern is also cut in 14 pieces the stretch factor of the knit6). * The type of of Muslin all at the same time by the knit and use of garment determine the choice cutter. between the two methods. 1.2 cm of seam allowances is given to all • Using shrinkage factor, this method is sides except the hemline where 5 cm of preferred for loosely fitted garments. To do seam allowance is given. this, shrinkage factor must be known. The 4) Guidelines such as the center front, the pattern is enlarged to compensate for center back, the armhole, the bust-line, shrinkage，). the waistline, the hip-line and the • Using stretch & recovery factor, this hemline are drawn on the torso patterns method is used for close-fitted and contour in Muslin, and the guidelines are basted type garments. The original pattern is on the torso patterns in the knitted modified reduced in length and width to fabrics. compensate for the stretch. How much 5) The 14 torso patterns in the knitted stretch is removed depends on the stretch fabrics are exhibited on the dress-forms factor of the knit8). on top of the torso patterns in Muslin. There must be the third method for 12 The front and back of one side of gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics shoulders of the patterns in each fabric because of the type of knitted fabric and the are seamed together to be hung on the use of them. These fabrics are stabilized by dress-forms. setting and made into constructed knitwear applied cut & sew method. They do not 3. Research Method shrink or stretch out, but they do sag to some The distances between the guidelines on degree because of the fiber contents even the Muslin and those on the sample fabrics though they are meant to be stable. were measured every 3 days from April 6, 1998 through April 20, 1998. The distances IH. Research Plan & Method measured on April 22, 1998 were the same as those measured on April 18, 1998. Therefore, 1. Samples the measured distances between the each Fourteen different knitted fabrics by 12 guideline on April 18, 1998 were 난le basis for gauge, computerized flat bed machines are the research. used. The properties of each sanple fabric
6 Ibid. 1 Ibid. 8 Ibid,. 624.
-176 - Vol. 2 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Cultlire 83
Preparing torso patterns.
IV. Results and Discussion 2. The distances between the guidelines on muslin and those on the sample fabrics The results of the laboratory tests for 14 sample fabrics and the distances between the 3. The relationship between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the sample characteristics of the sample fabrics and fabrics are analyzed with the bar graphs. The the distances from the guidelines sample fabrics are divided into 4 groups based on the distances between the bust-lines in the According to (Table 5〉，the properties of course direction, A new method of pattern each sample fabric are interrelated with the adjustments is developed. Based on the lengthwise distances between the guidelines. method, 2 pieces of sample garments for each They have nothing in common because all the group are developed to test its fit, and the sample fabrics used in the research are grade rule table is programmed into the treated being suitable for end uses. It is pattern making system95. proven that the sample fabrics are stable knits having similar properties. 1. The latxHBtoiy test results for sample On the other hand, the bar graph of the fabrics fiber contents for each sample fabric shows a
Microdynamics (U. S. A.), Version 8.22C
-177 - 84 A Study on Adapting Patterns to Stable Knit Fabrics in Relation to Drapability IJCC
Korea Apparel Testing & Research Institute There are 8 yarn feeders on both sides.
-179 - 86 A Study on Adapting Patterns to Stable Knit Fabrics in Relation to Drapability IJCC
< Table 히〉The distances between the guidelines on muslin an서 those on the sample febrics Items Guidelines CF SS CB Length Neck 0.8 0.0 Torso Bust line 1.5 1.1 0.7 Waist line 2.4 — 1.1 Sample #1 Hip line 2.7 — 1.6 Hem line 2.8 2.5 1.7 Sleeve Elbow line 0.7 Hem line 0.9 Width Torso Bust line 0.8 Sleeve Hem line 0.5 Items Guidelines CF SS CB Length Neck 0.8 — 0.0 Torso Bust line 1.8 0.6 0.5 Waist line 2.2 — 0.9 Sample #2 Hip line 2.4 — 1.5 Hem line 2.5 2.3 1.7 Sleeve Elbow line 0.9 Hem line 1.2 Wdth Torso Bust line 0.8 Sleeve Hem line 0.8 Items Guidelines CF SS CB Length Neck 0.4 — Torso Bust line 1.0 0.9 0.6 Waist line 1.7 — 1.6 Sample #3 Hip line 1.7 — 1.9 Hem line 2.0 1.5 2.0 Sleeve Elbow line 0.5 Hem line 0.8 Wdth Torso Bust line 0.5 Sleeve Hem line 0.2 Items Guidelines CF SS CB Length Neck 0.3 — 0.0 Torso Bust line 0.5 0.4 0.1 Waist line 1.1 — 0.3 Sample #4 Hip line 1.5 — 0.7 Hem line 1.6 1.1 0.8 Sleeve Elbow line 0.6 Hem line • 0.9 Width Torso Bust line 0.6 Sleeve Hem line 0.7
-180- Vol. 2 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume C니ture 87
< Table 3> Continued Items Guidelines CF SS CB Length Neck 1.2 — 0.6 Torso Bust line 1.8 2.3 1.6 Waist line 2.4 — 3.0 Sample #5 Hip line 3.2 — 3.7 Hem line 3.8 3.5 3.8 Sleeve Elbow line 1.0 Hem line 2.0 Wth Torso Bust line 1.3 Sleeve Hem line 0.8 Items Guidelines CF SS CB Length Neck 0.1 — 0.0 Torso Bust line 0.9 0.1 0.3 Waist line 1.1 — 0.5 Sample #6 Hip line 1.3 — 0.9 Hem line 1.5 1.3 1.1 Sleeve Elbow line 0.0 Hem line 0.7 Wdth Torso Bust line 0.1 Sleeve Hem line 0.0 Items Guidelines CF SS CB Length Neck 0.5 — 0.0 Torso Bust line 1.3 0.3 0.6 Waist line 1.5 — 0.8 Sample #7 Hip line 1.6 一 0.9 Hem line 1.7 1.6 1.4 Sleeve Elbow line 0.4 Hem line 0.6 Wdth Torso Bust line 0.4 Sleeve Hem line 0.3 Items Guidelines CF SS CB Length Neck 0.6 — 0.0 Torso Bust line 1.3 0.3 0.4 Waist line 1.7 — 0.9 Sample #8 Hip line 2.1 — 1.1 Hem line 2.6 1.6 1.1 Sleeve Elbow line 0.4 Hem line 0.9 Width Torso Bust line 0.7 Sleeve Hem line 0.2 Items Guidelines CF SS CB Length Neck 0.8 — 0.2 Torso Bust line 1.3 1.5 0.4 Waist line 1.7 — 1.5 Sample #9 Hip line 1.8 — 1.9 Hem line 2.0 2.0 1.7 Sleeve Elbow line 0.9 Hem line 1.0 Width Torso Bust line 0.4 Sleeve Hem line 1.0
-181 - 88 A Study on Adapting Patterns to Stable Knit Fabrics in Relation to Drapability IJCC
< Table 3> Continued Items Guidelines CF SS CB Length Neck 0.5 — 0.0 Torso Bust line 1.5 0.8 0.2 Waist line 1.7 一 0.5 San^jle #10 Hip line 1.9 — 1.0 Hemline 1.9 1.5 1.2 Sleeve Elbow line 0.6 Hem line 0.8 Wdth Torso Bust line 1.2 Sleeve Hem line 0.5 Items Guidelines CF SS CB Length Neck 0.4 — 0.0 Tbrso Bust line 1.0 L0 0.5 Waist line 1.6 — 1.0 Sample #11 Hip line 2.2 — 1.6 Hem line 2.3 2.0 2.2 Sleeve Elbow line 0.3 Hem line 1.0 Width Torso Bust line 1.1 Sleeve Hem line 0.5 Items Guidelines CF SS CB Length Neck 0.1 — 0.1 Torso Bust line 0.3 0.6 0.5 Waist line 0.7 — 0.7 Sample #12 Hip line 1.1 — 0.9 Hem line 1.1 0.7 1.0 Sleeve Elbow line 0.5 Hem line 0.6 Width Torso Bust line 0.2 Sleeve Hem line 0.3 Items Guidelines CF SS CB Length Neck 1.3 — 0.4 Torso Bust line 2.2 2.5 1.9 Waist line 3.6 — 2.9 Sample #13 Hip line 4.3 — 3.8 Hem line 4.4 4.2 4.4 Sleeve Elbow line 0.4 Hem line 1.1 Wdth Torso Bust line 1.0 Sleeve Hem line 0.8 Items Guidelines CF SS CB Length Neck 0.6 — 0.2 Torso Bust line 1.1 1.0 1.0 Waist line 2.0 一 1.3 Sawle #14 Hip line 2.2 — 1.4 Hem line 2.4 1.8 1.5 Sleeve Elbow line 0.4 Hem line 0.6 Width Torso Bust line 0.7 Sleeve Hem line 0.2
-182 - Vol. 2 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 89
< Table 4> The relationship between the characteristics of the sample fabrics and the distances from the guidelines on muslin to those in the sample fabrics
Property The distances The between the distance on guidelines on the byst- the CB, SS & lme Sample# CF(cm) (cm)
2.8- 2； 1.7 0.8 2 25- 2.3・ 1.7“ 0T ■ 2Q- LA 2.0 oT 4 ■ 3河i・l- 0.8、 OZ" T ■ 3.8- &A 3.8 TT 6" ■ oT _ 1.5- 1.3- T = 1.7- L&"4 04 T ・・ 2厅1.6- oT 2.A 2.(A 1.7" *04 io l.A 15- 1.2” Tz TT 2.3- 2.(戶2.2 IT 1.1- 0.7- 1.0 "oT 13 l==l 4.4- 4.2- 4.4 To 14 l 頒；L8- L5 而 lllll (The thin horizontal line indicates the low rate of the test results) (The bold ven尚 linelllll indicates the highest rate of the test results) I (The thin vertical line indicates the high rate of the test results) significant difference compared to other the simple and economic method to test properties. The bar graph showing bigger drapability of the fine gauge knitted fabrics. distances is the sample fabrics in fibers Also it is reasonable that the sample fabrics having high specific gravity such as cotton, are grouped by the distances between the ramie, rayon or lower elasticity such as wool, guidelines. nylon and acrylic. In a word, drapability is the factor of the distances between the 4. Grouping the torso patterns in sample guidelines, and the main cause of final fabrics by the distances between the appearance distortion of garment. giriddines The fabrics* stiffness and flexibility measure Although the distances between the the drapability of the fabrics. The bigger the guidelines vary, all of the 14 sample fabrics distance in the lengthwise direction of the lengthen and narrow. The distances between sample fabrics is the lower the drapability. It the gttidelines in the wale direction are in can be proven by the fact that the highest proportion to those in the course direction. If drapability of all the sample fabrics shows the the distances are bigger in the wale direction, lowest distance of all in the lengthwise those are bigger in the course direction, too. direction. Therefore, this research suggests Therefore, the sample fabrics can be grouped
-183- 90 A Study on Adapting Patterns to Stable Knit Fabrics in Relation to Drapability IJCC
Fiber contents of the sample fabrics. into 4 groups by the distances between the The mean value of group A is 1.2 cm, group bust-lines in the course direction. The result B 1.5 cm, group C 2.0 cm and 나lat of group D of the distances between the guidelines in the is 3.0 cm. The distances are measured both on wale direction being lined up upward is 나le the center front and center back hemline and same as that of the distances in the course then calculated by making averages. direction being lined up upward except two One thing to bear in mind is that the length sample fabrics with higher specific gravity distances on the center front hemline differ compared to others. from those on the center back hemline if the
-184- Vol. 2 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 91
Grouping the torso patterns in sample fabrics by the distances between the guidelines
The distances between The lengthwise The distances between Group San耳)le # the guidelines on the maximum mean the bust-lines (cm) name CB & CF(cm) distances (cm)
6 1.5-1.1 Group 0.0 ~ 0.2 1.2 12 1.1—1.0 A 3 2.0-2.0 4 LI.8 Group 0.4 〜0.6 1.5 7 L7F.4 B 9 2.0-1.7 1 2.&T7 2 2.1.7 Group 0.7 ~ 0.8 2.0 8 2.6-*l.l C 14 2.4—1.5 11 2.A2.2 10 1.9-1.2 Group 1.0 〜1.2 3.0 5 3.8-*3.8 D 13 4.4-44
sample fabrics carry high specific gravity. is developed. This means when drafting patterns for Delta is the most common type of grading. jackets and coats, the distance of the knitted It grades a point a specific amount using an fabric on the center front must be added to X-Y axis. Relative grading is the amount of both the facing and interfacing to prevent the grade from the sample size. The value of the front hemline riding up. sample size is always equal to zero. Each group of movements is referenced by a grade 5. The method of pattern adjustments rule number from the table. for each group To adjust patterns for sample fabrics, the V. Conclusions torso and sleeve patterns need to be moved "out" and "up" following (Table 7〉which This research is done to find out the factors shows the distances and directions that points which affect the final appearance of finished on patterns move. garment in knitted fabrics and also try to theorize the method of pattern adjustments 6. Developiiig sample garments based on mainly based on the pattern maker's personal the new method experience. The results of the research are as follows: 7. Programming the grade rule table 1) Drapability of the knitted fabrics is the named "knit* into the pattern making main factor that affects the final system. appearance of finished garment. The According to the new pattern adapting knitted fabrics showing big distances method, the grade rule table named 'knit' between the guidelines consist of the
-185 - 92 A Study on Adapting Patterns to Stable Knit Fabrics in Relation to Drapability IJCC
~ 186 — Vol. 2 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 93
Sample garments for each group.
fibers with high specific gravity or low given a top priority, and the combina elasticity. tion of the factors -weight and dra 2) A simple and economic way of measuring pability- will determine the way garment drapability of the knitted fabric is in stabilized fine gauge knitted fabrics suggested. fits. 3) Considering disability, the fiber contents 4) The sample fabrics are divided into four and the stitch of the fabric should be groups. They are grouped according to
-187 - 94 A Study on Adapting Patterns to Stable Knit Fabrics in Relation to Drapability IJCC
The grade rule table 'KNIT' ______Table name : KNIT______Measurement unit : mm______Rule type : delta(incremmt : l/]0)______Rule method : relative Group A B C D Rule 1 X 0 0 0 0 Y 0 0 0 0 Group A B c D Rule 3 X 0 50 80 120 Y —50 -70 -100 -130 Group A B C D R 니e 4 X 0 50 80 120 Y -80 -120 -180 -200 Group A B C D Rule 5 X 0 50 80 120 Y -120 -150 -200 -300 Group A B C D Rile 11 X 0 0 0 0 Y 0 -30 ~40 -50 Group A B C D Rule 32 X 0 —50 -80 -120 Y -50 -70 -100 -130 Group A B C D Rule 33 X 0 30 40 60 Y -50 -70 -100 -130 Group A B C D R니e 34 X 0 -30 ~40 一60 Y 一50 -70 -100 -130 Group A B C D Rule 41 X 0 0 0 0 Y -80 -120 -180 -200 Group A B C D Rule 42 X 0 50 80 120 Y -80 -120 -180 -200 Group A B C D Rule 51 X 0 0 0 0 Y -120 -150 -200 -300 Group A B C D R 너e 52 X 0 —50 -80 -120 Y -120 -150 一 200 -300
-188 - Vol. 2 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 95
the distances between the bust-lines in the theoretical background in this area, the course (width) direction. The mean Mdiere pattern adjustments have mainly been value of group A in course direction is 0 dependent on patternmaker^ personal experi and in the wale direction —1.2cm, group ence. B —0.5cm & —1.5cm, group C 0.8cm & —2.0cm and group D is 1.2cm & —3.0 References cm. Therefore, unlike the method 1 or 2, the patterns in the sample febrics have Franfield, C. A. 1975. Textile Terms and to be widened and shortened applying Definitions. Manchester : The Textile the new pattern adapting method. Institute. 5) Hie sample garments are developed Spencer, D. J. 1989. Knitting Technology. New following the new pattern adapting York: Pergamon Press. method. Gioello, D. A, 1982. Understanding Fabrics. New 6) Referring to the new method, the grade York: Fairchild Publications. rule table named *knit* is programmed Gioello, D. A. and Berke, Beverly. 1981. into the pattern making system. It can Fashion Production Terms. New York: be utilized by the apparel industry. Fairchild Publications. If a sample garment is developed utilizing Armstrong, H. J. 1987. Pattemmaking for the new method, it will save time and effort, Fashion design. New York: Harper & Row and therefore lower 나｝e production cost, and Publishers Inc. benefit both manufacturers and consumers. Kopp /Rolfo /Zein /Gross. 1982. Designing More pattern adapting methods should be Through The Flat Pattern. New York: developed according to 나types of febrics. Fairchild Publications. Further research should be done to strengthen Kopp /Rolfo /Zein /Gross. 1987. New Fashion
-189- 96 A Study on Adapting Patterns to Stable Knit Fabrics in Relation to Drapability IJCC
Areas for Designing Apparel Through The Son, H. J. 1988. A Study of Development Flat Patterns. New York: Fairchild process of Knitwears and its real-states of Publications. wearing. Unpublished Master's Thesis. Gartshore, L. 1983. The Machine Knitter's Sung-Shin Women's Univers辻y. Dictionary. United Kingdom: St. Martain's Hong, M. G, 1987. A Study of the Modern Press. Women's Knitwear Design. Unpublished Bray, N. 1986. More Dress Pattern Designing： Master*s Thesis. Hong-Ik University. Collins Professional Technical Books Lee, H. E. 1982. Study on the Populariza Publishers, Inc. tion of Knit Wear in Korea. Unpublished Singer. 1992. Sewing with Knits. Minnesota： Cy Master's Thesis. Hong-Ik University. DeCosse Incorporated. Kim, I. J. and Choi, S. K. 1995. "A Study on Aldrich, W. 1992. Metric Pattern Cutting. Oxford: the Change of Domestic Knit Industry/ Blackwell Scientific PuHications. The Buk-Ak Review, vol. 13: 155-179. Zamkoff/Price. 1990. Creative Pattern Skills Park, S. W.，Kang, B. C.t Hwang, Y. G. and for Fashion Design. New York: Fair가lild Ann, J. S. 1995. “Studies on the Mechan Publications. ical Properties and Hand of Double Song, K. H. 1996. A Study on 난le Design of Knitted Fabrics," Journal of the Korean Knitwear. Unpublished Master's Thesis. Fiber Society, 32(9): 859-868. Sung-Shin Women's University. Park, S. W., Ann, J. S., Kang, B. C. and Jo, Kim, K. H. 1994. A Research Study on 나坦 H. H. 1994. "Studies on Dimensional Actual Conditions of Propensity to Stability of Double-Knit Fabrics," Journal Consume and Enterprises of the Knit of the Korean Fiber Society, 31(3): 198-203. wears. Unpublished Master's Thesis. Kim, H. S. 1991. "A Study of Torso Block for Sung-Shin Women's University. the Fatty Body of 40-59 Aged Korean Kim, S. R. 1994. Study of Torso Pattern Women, * The Academic Journal cf Kon~Kuk according to Somatotype. Unpublished University, 5： 193-208. Master's Thesis. Dong-Duck Womenfs Uni- Park, E. K. and Kim, W. J. 1990. “A Study vers 辻 y. on Development of Jacket Basic Pattern," Kim, J. M. 1993. A Study on Designing Research Institute cf Science for Better Living Women*s Knitwear. Unpublished Master's 5: 113-123. Thesis. Sook-Myung Women's University.