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Home , Back closure, Hemline, Topstitch

1 2 Options

Top length, Short

Top length, Long sleeve

Tunic peplum, Mid sleeve

The Sparrow Top and Tunic OPTIONS

Top length peplum Hi-lo length peplum Hi-lo peplum, Mid sleeve Tunic length peplum Short sleeve Mid sleeve Long sleeve

Sparrow Pattern © Petite Stitchery & Co. 3 Getting Started * Read the entire pattern before beginning. * All allowances are 3/8” unless otherwise stated. * Finish seams with a serger or zigzag to reduce fray. * Pre-wash fabric, particularly knit, to prevent shrinkage. * When instructed, your garment to lock seams in place. To topstitch, increase the stitch length to 3.0. Stitch 1/8” away from the folded edge and directly over the seam. * Optional topstitching will always be specified. * To , increase the tension and stitch length to the highest settings. Leave a 5” to 10” tail and stitch ¼” from the raw edge. Do not at the end, but instead leave another 5” to 10” tail. Adjust the gathers. Recommended Fabrics: * Use knit for the bodice and peplum only. * Four-way stretch with at least 50% recovery is recommended (e.g., Art Gallery Fabrics makes great knit that is not too thick, not too thin, and recovers beautifully). * Keep in mind that two-way knit will stretch width-wise but not in length. * Use light-weight for the (e.g., chambray, light-eight denim, light weight quilting cotton). * If using heavier weight for the collar, use a light weight fabric on the collar underside. & Supplies * 1/8” for back closure (or light weight hair tie). Only 2” is needed. * 1/2” to 3/4” button for * One package of wash-away double sided adhesive 1/4” tape (strongly recommended). * 1/4” elastic * Light or feather weight

Pattern Pieces Printing, Cutting & Assembly Instructions * PSC patterns are layered, providing the option to print one or more sizes at once. * When printing, make sure to select Auto portrait/landscape and 100% scale boxes. * Select the pattern pages to print. * Once printed, match up symbols and tape pattern pieces together. A visual depiction of the pattern layout will be provided with the cutting instructions. * Pages can be trimmed to black border or used without trimming *Page numbers are numerical from top to bottom *Page letters are matched alphabetically from left to right *Pages meet to make complete circles

Sparrow Pattern © Petite Stitchery & Co. 4 Printing specific pattern sizes * Open the pdf pattern. * On the far left side of the screen is a layers button (two diamond shapes layered on top of each other). Click this button. * Every size will have a black oval in the box. This means all sizes will print. De-select the sizes that are not needed by clicking the box.

Do not de-select the “Must Print” box.

Sparrow Pattern © Petite Stitchery & Co. 5 Standard Size Chart Imperial (in) NB 0-3m 3-6m 6-9m 9-12m 12-18m 18-24m Chest 13.75 15.5 17 18 18.5 19 19.75 Waist 14 16 17.5 18.5 19 19.5 20.25 Height Up to 20” 21-22 23-24 25-27 27-29 29-30 31-33 Inseam 5.5 6.75 7.5 8.5 9.5 10.25 11.5 Fabric Requirements Yards NB 0-3m 3-6m 6-9m 9-12m 12-18m 18-24m

Collar 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 Top length 3/4 3/4 1 1/8 1 1/4 1 3/8 1 3/8 1 3/8 Hi-lo & tunic peplum 7/8 7/8 1 1/4 1 3/8 1 3/8 1 3/8 1 3/8 Standard Size Chart Metric (cm) NB 0-3m 3-6m 6-9m 9-12m 12-18m 18-24m Chest 34.9 39.4 43.2 45.7 47 48.3 50.2 Waist 35.6 40.6 44.5 47 48.3 49.5 51.4 Height Up to 43.2 45.7-50.8 55.9-61 61-68.6 68.6-73.7 73.7-76.2 78.7-83.8 Inseam 14 17.1 19.1 21.6 24.1 26 29.1 Fabric Requirements Meters NB 0-3m 3-6m 6-9m 9-12m 12-18m 18-24m

Collar .229 .229 .229 .229 .229 .229 .229 Top length .686 .686 1.029 1.143 1.257 1.257 1.257 Hi-lo & tunic peplum .8 .8 1.143 1.257 1.257 1.257 1.257 Finished Measurements Imperial (in) NB 0-3m 3-6m 6-9m 9-12m 12-18m 18-24m Top 7.25 8.75 10.5 11.25 11.75 13 13.75 Hi-lo front 8.5 9.5 10.75 11.75 12.75 13.75 14.75 Tunic 9.5 10.75 11.75 12.75 13.75 14.75 15.75

Metric (cm) NB 0-3m 3-6m 6-9m 9-12m 12-18m 18-24m Top 18.4 22.2 26.7 28.6 29.8 33 34.9 Hi-lo front 21.6 24.1 27.3 29.8 32.4 34.9 37.5 Tunic 24.1 27.3 29.8 32.4 34.9 37.5 40

Sparrow Pattern © Petite Stitchery & Co. 6

Customizing the fit for this pattern * Measure your child’s chest and waist. Select the pattern size based on the largest measurement. This is usually the chest measurement. * The size chart reflects the range in which the garment will fit comfortably. For instance, a chest measurement of 18.25” will use a size 6-9m. Since a 9-12m starts at 18.5”, a size 9-12m may be a little roomier but it will still fit well. *If you would prefer a thinner collar, you can use a bigger when sewing the collar.

Cut Chart Imperial (in) NB` 0-3m 3-6m 6-9m 9-12m 12-18m 18-24m

Short & Mid sleeve 1/4” 6 6.75 7.25 7.5 7.5 7.75 7.75 elastic ( 2) Long sleeve 1/4” elastic 5 5.5 5.75 6.25 6.5 7 7 (cut 2) Intefacing 3 x 2 3 x 2 3 x 2 3 x 2 3 x 2 3 x 2 3 x 2 (Cut 1 L xW) 1/8” Elastic 2” 2” 2” 2” 2” 2” 2” (Cut 1) Metric (cm) NB` 0-3m 3-6m 6-9m 9-12m 12-18m 18-24m

Short & Mid sleeve 1/4” 15.2 17.1 18.4 19.1 19.1 19.7 19.7 elastic (cut 2) Long sleeve 1/4” elastic 12.7 14 14.6 15.9 16.5 17.8 17.8 (cut 2) Interfacing 8 x 5 8 x 5 8 x 5 8 x 5 8 x 5 8 x 5 8 x 5 (Cut 1 L xW) 1/8” Elastic 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 (Cut 1)

Sparrow Pattern © Petite Stitchery & Co. 7

Step 1: Cut the bodice, sleeve, and peplum pattern pieces using knit fabric. Be sure to cut the 1/4” elastic, 1/8” elastic, and interfacing according to the lengths specified in the cut chart on page 6.

Step 2: CUTTING THE TOP LENGTH PEPLUM. The top length peplum is cut on the double fold. To do this: 1. Fold the fabric in half towards the edge. 2. Fold the fabric in half towards the raw edge. One side will have a double folded edge and one side will have one fold with four layers. 3. Place the pattern piece with the front of the peplum on the double fold as depicted.

Step 3: Lay out one set of collar pieces with the wrong side up. Match the wrong side of the collar with the fusible side of the interfacing. With a hot iron, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the collar.

Step 4: Select the remaining collar pieces, and match coordinating collar pieces, right sides together. together. Stitch along the outer edge of the collar, leaving the inside, curved edge unstitched. Clip the curves, taking care not to clip through the stitching. Turn the collar right side out and press. Use a chopstick or wooden dowel to push the seam out. Press well. Repeat with the other collar. OPTIONAL: Topstitch along the outer curve, 1/8” from the folded, seamed edge.

Sparrow Pattern © Petite Stitchery & Co. 8

Step 5: OPTIONAL: If possible, serge the en- tire outside edge and the inside edge of the peplum (all options). This is not necessary but does help to keep the edges from stretching.

Step 6: Lay out the peplum with the wrong side facing up. Using the ¼” wash-away double- sided, adhesive tape, begin to unroll the tape and adhere the tape to the . Place the tape directly on top of the serged edged. The tape does not have to be perfectly curved on the serged line. Leave the backing on the tape.

Step 7: Peel off the backing of the wash-away tape one section at a time. Fold over the , taking care not to pucker or wrinkle the hem edge. Fold over enough fabric so that the serged edge is not exposed. This will be more than 1/4” but less than 1/2”. If the raw edge was not serged, the amount of fabric folded over is 1/4” to 1/2”. Use your fingers to adhere.

Step 8: When the entire hem is secured, check the right side of the peplum for puckers. Adjust puckers or folds as needed. Topstitch along the bottom edge, no more than ¼” from the folded edge. This will secure the hem in place.

Sparrow Pattern © Petite Stitchery & Co. 9

Step 9: With the right side of the peplum facing up, adhere the wash-away tape to the inside oval directly on top of the serged edge. If the raw edge was not serged, add the tape to the right side of the fabric just inside the cut edge. Do NOT peel off the backing. Set aside.

Step 10: Select the back bodice piece. Fold the lining in half and press a crease to mark the center of the back bodice. Select the 3” x 2” piece of fusible interfacing. With a pencil or pen, and starting at the top center, draw a 2½” line down the center of the interfacing. Lay the back bodice piece wrong side facing up and place the interfacing on top of the center fold. The marked line on the interfacing should line up exactly with the back bodice center. Fuse the interface in place.

Step 11: With right sides together, pin the shoulder seams of the lining bodice pieces. Use a stretch stitch and stitch the shoulder seams. Repeat with the outer bodice pieces.

Step 12: Mark the center front of the bodice lining with a pin. Lay the bodice lining flat with right sides facing up. Select one collar. Position the collar so that the fused side (stiffer side) is facing up. Place the edge of the front of the collar so that it overlaps the center pin by 1/8”- 1/4”. Pin the back edge, 1/2” - 3/4” from the center back line. Pin the collar in place, fitting the collar to the . Repeat with the other collar. Baste the collar in place by stitching 1/4” from the raw edge.

Sparrow Pattern © Petite Stitchery & Co. 10

Step 13: With the right side of the outer bodice facing the collar, sandwich the collar between the lining and outer bodice pieces. Line up the shoulder seams and pin. Pin the center of the outer (front) bodice to the collar center. Pin the center of the outer (back) bodice to the center of the back lining. Repin the neckline, sandwiching the collar in between the lining and the outer bodice.

Step 14: With the lining side facing up, line up the lining and outer bodices so that they are directly on top of each other. Add to keep the bodice from moving. With the bodice lining and outer bodice pinned together, carefully cut a slit through the outer and lining peices along the marked line.

Step 15: Select one side to put the elastic for the button. Fold the 2” length of 1/8” elastic in half and adhere a small piece of the wash away tape to the cut edge of the elastic. Gently separate the back bodice lining from the back bodice outer at one of the top corners. Adhere and pin the elastic ½” down from the neckline of the back bodice. Make sure to have the elastic stick out just a bit. Pin the back bodice pieces together along the slit.

Step 16: Starting at a shoulder seam, slowly stitch around the entire neckline. At the slit, continue to stitch down the side of the slit. Begin tapering the stitching to the center of the interfacing to make a V at the bottom of the interfacing. At the center of the slit, turn and stich up the other side.

Sparrow Pattern © Petite Stitchery & Co. 11

Step 17: Clip the curved edges along the neckline and clip the corners of the back at the slit. To secure the collar in place, understitching will be used. With the outer bodice facing up, pull the front bodice piece and collar away so that the seam allowance is directly on top of the lining fabric. Starting at one shoulder seam, stitch along the seam allowance, securing the seam allowance to the lining. End at the other shoulder seam. Understitch the front neckline only.

Step 18: With the bodice still separated, pin the front bodice side seams together. Then, pin the lining side seams together. Using a stretch stitch, stitch along the side seams as depicted..

Step 19: Turn the bodice so the outer bodice is facing out. Pin the lining and outer bodice together at the shoulder and side seams. Serge the bottom edge of the bodice. OR, use the wash-away double adhesive tape to adhere the lining and the outer bodice together along the bottom edge. Sandwich the adhesive along the bottom edge of the lining and outer bodice. Be sure to match up the side seams and take care not to stretch the knit. This will keep the knit from stretching.

Step 20: Mark the front center, back center, and the sides of the peplum skirt. Mark the front and back center of the bottom edge of the bodice with pin. Peel away the wash-away tape and line up the sides of the peplum with the side seams of the bodice. Then, match up the front and back center of the peplum with the corresponding front and back bodice pins. Adhere the raw edges together, taking care to remove any puckers.

Sparrow Pattern © Petite Stitchery & Co. 12

Step 25: Select one sleeve and add a gath- ering stitch by sewing from one pin to the other. Repeat with the other sleeve.

Step 26: With right sides together, pin the sleeve together and stitch the arm seam. Repeat with the other arm. Serge or zizag to finish the seam.

Step 27: Turn the sleeve right side out. Fold the bottom elastic edge in 3/8”. Pin in place. Starting at the arm seam, stitch 1/4” from the folded edge. Stretch the arm opening open while stitching. Gently hold the arm opening behind the needle and in front of the needle so that the elastic is stretched but the knit is not stretched. Stitch around the entire opening. Repeat with the other arm.

Step 28: Turn the bodice inside out. Turn the right side out. Starting with one arm, line up the arm seam to the bodice side seam and pin. Then, line up the side edges of the arm with the arm opening and pin, stopping at the gathers. Once both sides of the armhole are pinned up to the gathers, adjust the gathers to be the same width as the armhole. Pin in place. Repeat with the other arm. Using a triple stretch stitch, sew the arms in place. Serge or zigzag to finish the seam.

Sparrow Pattern © Petite Stitchery & Co. 13

Step 29: Lay the top so that the back bodice is facing up. On the side opposite the elastic, measure down from the neckline, ½”. Then, measure in from the back slit ½”. Mark this spot with a dot. Sew the button in place here.

Sparrow Pattern © Petite Stitchery & Co. 14

Sparrow Pattern © Petite Stitchery & Co. 15

Quick Sew Instructions: 1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of collar pieces. 2. Mark the center of the 3” x 2” interfacing, drawing a 2.5” line down the center. Fuse to the wrong side of the center of the back bodice lining. 3. Stitch around the outer collar edges, clip, flip and press. 4. With RST, stitch the lining and outer bodice shoulder pieces. 5. Lay the bodice lining, right side up. Mark the front and back bodice center with a pin. With collar interfacing side facing up, overlap the front collars slightly (no more than ¼”) over the center pin. Pin the back collar ½” from the center of the back bodice. Pin the collar in place. Baste to secure. 6. Pin the outer bodice to the lining, RST. Pin the center back along the interfacing. Cut a 2.5” slit along the marked line (see #2). 7. Fold the 1/8” elastic in half. Open one side of the slit and pin the elastic ½” down the center slit. 8. Starting at a shoulder seam, stitch around the neckline and around the back slit. Clip the curves and the V at the back center. 9. Understitch the front neckline, stitching the seam allowance directly to the lining. Press the neckline and back slit. 10. Pin and stitch the outer bodice side seams and the lining bodice side seams. 11. Pin the lining and outer bodice side seams, serge or zigzag the bottom edge of the bodice. Set aside. 12. Serge or zigzag the inner and outer edges of the peplum. 13. Add wash-away adhesive to the wrong side of the hemline and directly on top of the stitching. Remove backing and fold the hemline up 3/8” and secure the hem in place. Topstitch the hem. 14. Add wash-away adhesive to the right side of the inner peplum circle on top of the stitching. 15. Starting with the peplum, mark the front and back center and sides with a pin. Mark the bodice center and back with a pin. Remove adhesive. Line up bodice and peplum side marking and front/back markings. Adhere the peplum to the bodice. 16. Stitch 3/8” from the raw edge using a stretch stitch. Topstitch, securing the seam to the bodice using a stretch stitch. 17. Pin the ¼” elastic to the wrong side of the bottom edge of one sleeve. Be sure to have ½” of elastic extend beyond each side edge. Baste in place. 18. Serge or zigzag the elastic along the bottom sleeve edge. the elastic excess. 19. Repeat #17 & #18 with the other sleeve. 20. Add a gathering stitch to the top curve of each sleeve. 21. Fold sleeve lengthwise, right sides together and stitch closed, serge to finish. Repeat with other sleeve. 22. Turn the sleeve right side out. Hem bottom sleeve elastic, fold in ¼” – 3/8” and stitch just inside the elastic edge, stretching the elastic as you stitch. 23. Attach the sleeve by matching the bodice side seam with the arm seam, RST. Pin the sleeve in place and adjust the gathers accordingly. Stitch and serge to finish. Repeat with the other arm. 24. Add button, 1/2” in and down from the edge opposite the elastic.

Sparrow Pattern © Petite Stitchery & Co. 16 The following fabrics used for this pattern were provided by our friends at

Moon Stories Spark Aura Fletchings in in Knit Blue knit

Thread used to sew this pattern was provided by our friends at

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Sparrow Pattern © Petite Stitchery & Co. 18-24m A

1”x1” 12-18m 9-12m

6-9m 18-24m 3-6m 12-18m

0-3m

NB 1

Sparrow Top & Tunic Bodice Cut 2 Front on Fold (solid line; 1 main & 1 lining) Cut 2 Back on fold (dashed line; 1 main & 1 lining)

FOLD Stretch A A

1”x1” A

18-24m 12-18m

9-12m 6-9m

3-6m

0-3m NB 2

FOLD

Cut 2 on double Fold double on 2 Cut

Top Length Skirt Skirt Length Top

center front center Sparrow Top & Tunic Tunic & Top Sparrow

FOLD FOLD NB 0-3m A

3-6m 6-9m 9-12m A B C

18-24m

12-18m 9-12m 6-9m

3-6m 0-3m NB

Grainline

Cut 4 (mirror) 4 Cut Cut 2 interfacing (mirror) interfacing 2 Cut

3 Tunic & Top Peplum Sparrow

collar front

A B18-24m 12-18m 9-12m 6-9m 3-6m 0-3m NB FOLD C Center Back

C A B FOLD C Center Back

A B C

4

A B C

3-6m 6-9m 9-12m 12-18m

18-24m 0-3m Mid Sleeve

3-6m Mid Sleeve E E 6-9m Mid Sleeve NB Long Sleeve 5 7 2” 19.7 17.8 7.75 8 x 5 9-12m Mid Sleeve 3 x 2 18-24m 18-24m

12-18m Mid Sleeve 7 5 2” 7.75 19.7 17.8 3 x 2 8 x 5 12-18m 18-24m Mid Sleeve 12-18m 0-3m Long Sleeve 5 2” 7.5 6.5 19.1 16.5 3 x 2 8 x 5 9-12m 9-12m

5 2” 7.5 19.1 15.9 6.25 6-9m 6-9m 3 x 2 3-6m Long Sleeve 8 x 5 5 Imperial (in) Imperial (in) 2” Metric (cm) 7.25 18.4 14.6 5.75 3-6m 3-6m 3 x 2 8 x 5 Cut Chart

6-9m Long Sleeve 5 5 2” 14 5.5 6.75 17.1 0-3m 0-3m 3 x 2 8 x 5 6 5 5 9-12m Long Sleeve 2” NB` NB` 15.2 12.7 3 x 2 8 x 5 12-18m Long Sleeve facing (cut 2) (cut 2) (Cut 1) (Cut (Cut 1) Intefacing ong sleeve ong sleeve Inter 1/8” Elastic 1/8” Elastic sleeve 1/4” 1/4” elastic sleeve 1/4” 1/4” elastic Short & Mid Short & Mid L L (Cut 1 L xW) (Cut (Cut 1 L xW) elastic (cut 2) elastic (cut elastic (cut 2) elastic (cut

18-24m Long Sleeve

D D D

C

C C C D E

C D E

Sparrow Peplum Top & Tunic Hi-Lo Peplum (use solid line) Tunic Peplum (use solid back line and front dashed line) Cut 1 on 6the fold

C D E E F

1”x1” 3-6m Mid Sleeve 0-3m Mid Sleeve NB Mid Sleeve Sparrow Top & Tunic 9-12m to 18-24m Short Sleeve Cut Line

NB to 6-9m Short Sleeve Cut Line Cut 2 on Fold

Sleeve FOLD FOLD 7

E F FOLD G Center Front

6-9m Hi-Low Peplum 9-12m Hi-Low Peplum

NB Hi-Low Peplum

3-6m Hi-Low Peplum

12-18m Hi-Low Peplum 18-24m Hi-Low Peplum

0-3m Hi-Low Peplum E F G Center Front

6-9m Hi-Low Peplum 9-12m Hi-Low Peplum

NB Hi-Low Peplum E F 3-6m Hi-Low Peplum G 12-18m Hi-Low Peplum 18-24m Hi-Low Peplum

0-3m Hi-Low Peplum

3-6m Tunic 9-12m Tunic NB Tunic 0-3m Tunic 12-18m Tunic 18-24m Tunic

6-9m Tunic

8

E F G