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Quality Standards for Sewn Items/Projects Introduction

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Quality Standards for Sewn Items/Projects Introduction Quality Standards for Sewn Items/Projects By: Kay Hendrickson, Jan Hiller, and Nancy Mordhorst Introduction An essential task for evaluating the quality of Many techniques can produce the same result. construction of any sewn item is to recognize and For example, a seam might be sewn by hand, sewn identify standards that give it a finished, profes- using a conventional sewing machine or serger, or sional look. The purpose of this publication is to even fused using an innovative product. Fashion, list and describe specific characteristics that can be design, and notion trends continually change fit expected in high-quality construction of either and technique. Impartial evaluation is not based on home-sewn or ready-to-wear garments or other the method used, but on the end results when sewn items. These identified quality standards can measured by consistent standards. The construction serve as a basis for: techniques used should be compatible with the ✓ Self-evaluation of construction skills; item’s fabric, style, and purpose and, for home- ✓ Goals to work toward in an instructional sewn garments, the individual’s skill and available setting; sewing equipment. Regardless of the method used, ✓ Evaluation tools for comparing and the product should result in a detail, finish, or area evaluating ready-to-wear garments; and that is: ✓ Objective criteria for judging home-sewn ✓ Attractive or inconspicuous; projects entered in contests or fairs. ✓ Flat and smooth; ✓ This information can serve as a practical tool Free from bulk; ✓ for individuals, young or old, seeking to improve Characterized by secure stitching that is a their sewing skills, 4-H clothing and textile project uniform distance from an edge or fold; ✓ members and leaders, teachers, and judges. In an Functional; and ✓ objective evaluation, it is essential to play down Durable. personal preferences and base an appraisal on The standards outlined in this publication identified and accepted standards. Methods, refer to basic characteristics of sewn garments or techniques, and materials will change over time; other items, are organized by techniques and/or but the identified standards apply to almost all garment areas, and are presented in alphabetical construction techniques. order. PNW 197 Washington • Oregon • Idaho Quality Standards Checklist GENERAL APPEARANCE ✓ Reinforced with interfacing or reinforcement button ✓ Overall neatness ✓ Appropriate spacing for size of button and ✓ Plaids, stripes, checks, and other designs are garment type matched at seams ✓ Suitable type for fabric and garment (e.g., dressy ✓ Pattern and fabric are compatible or sporty; light or heavy weight) ✓ Fabric with a directional design (such as vertical flowers) or nap (such as corduroy) is cut in a BUTTONHOLES consistent direction, unless garment design requires variation ✓ Reinforced with interfacing ✓ Notions are compatible with fabric and garment ✓ Flat design ✓ Secure with all stitching intact • Color ✓ Even in length, width, and equally spaced • Fiber ✓ Uniform in appearance • Weight ✓ Placed with the grain or yarn direction of the • Design fabric ✓ Basting threads and construction markings have ✓ Appropriate length (large enough to allow been removed button to pass through easily, yet small enough ✓ Garment pressing is appropriate for fabric and to hold garment closed) style ✓ Correct placement • On right front of women’s garments BELT • On left front of men’s garments • Overlap wide enough to cover button ✓ Flat, smooth, free from bulkiness without gapping ✓ Straight belt is uniform in width • Overlay occurs where it was intended ✓ Contour belt has smooth, gradual curves (center front, center back, side seam, cuff) ✓ Interfacing, if used, is appropriate to maintain • Hold garment securely closed belt shape • Placed in the direction of strain from the ✓ Even, uniform shape at end of belt button (eliminates gapping) ✓ Closure is appropriate, attractive, durable, • Placed at the area of most strain secure, and functional ✓ Appropriate size and length for garment and Bound Buttonholes individual ✓ ✓ If used, belt carriers are secure and even Rectangle has perfectly square corners ✓ Rectangle has the appearance of being about 1/4 inch (6mm) wide BUTTONS ✓ Lips are even width ✓ Have a purpose, either functional or decorative ✓ Lips meet exactly at center of opening ✓ Securely and neatly fastened ✓ Facing securely and neatly fastened to back of ✓ Have a shank (to allow room for the buttonhole buttonholes fabric under the button) ✓ If bound buttonhole is meant to be a decorative ✓ Properly aligned with buttonholes; when design detail: buttoned, fabric is completely flat and smooth • Lips are even and stitched securely 2 ✓ Fabric for lips match, blend, or comple- ✓ Flat, smooth, and free of bulkiness ment the garment ✓ Appropriate button(s) and buttonhole(s) ✓ Outside of buttonhole is neat and flat • Button size is suitable or fabric and design Machine or Hand-Worked Buttonholes • Buttonhole size appropriate for button ✓ Interfacing is appropriate for design and fabric ✓ Stitched in thread that matches or • Maintains shape decoratively contrasts with fabric • Reinforces fabric ✓ Stitching is regular and smooth in appear- • Provides stability ance, and uniform in length CUFFS CASING ✓ Flat, smooth, and free from bulkiness ✓ Flat and smooth, without bulkiness; does not twist ✓ Enclosed seams are trimmed and graded ✓ Stitching is even and secure ✓ Interfacing is used appropriately to prevent seam ✓ Even in width allowance imprints ✓ Width allows drawstring or elastic to be inserted ✓ Interfacing is appropriate for design and fabric easily and stay in place during wear • Maintains shape • Reinforces fabric COLLAR • Provides stability ✓ Even in width ✓ Top stitching is even and secure, if used ✓ Built-in roll prevents cuff facing from showing ✓ Free from bulkiness ✓ Seamline is on the cuff edge, if two-piece cuff • Curved seams are clipped or notched ✓ Topstitching is even and secure, if used • Seams are trimmed and/or graded ✓ Only the top collar is visible • Seamline is just under the edge of the collar DARTS • Built-in roll prevents under-collar from ✓ Tapered and smooth showing • Come to a tapered point • Understitching or topstitching holds under- ✓ Stitching line is smooth and free of puckers, collar in place bubbles, or folds • Collar stays are inconspicuous, if used ✓ Ends are securely fastened ✓ Interfacing is appropriate for design and fabric ✓ Appear as straight lines from the outside of the • Maintains shape garment • Reinforces fabric ✓ Evenly spaced, if in groups • Provides stability ✓ Symmetrical in shape and length on the left and ✓ Enclosed seam allowance is invisible on outside right side of the garment body • Appropriate use of interfacing to prevent ✓ Placed and shaped to conform to the body imprints from seam allowances ✓ Well-pressed • Collar is smoothly pressed • Vertical darts are pressed toward the center ✓ Left and right sides are uniform in shape, unless of the garment asymmetrically designed • Horizontal darts are pressed downward • Curve of collar • On bulky fabrics, darts are slashed and • Angle of collar points pressed open • Position in relation to center front or center back FACINGS Collar Stand ✓ Flat, smooth, free from bulkiness, pulling, or strain ✓ Even in width ✓ Enclosed seam graded, clipped, or notched 3 ✓ Interfaced, if needed, to prevent stretching, • Free of wrinkles that lie in folds, indicating provide stability, and maintain shape too much ease ✓ Free edge 4. Balance (hangs evenly from the body) • Secure, stable, and free from raveling • If finished, finish is flat, smooth, free from ✓ Design features and fitting factors are equal bulkiness • From right to left ✓ Not visible from the outside of the garment, yet • From top to bottom securely held in place • From front to back • Turned smoothly on the seamline • By understitching 5. Overall smoothness (freedom from wrinkles) • By tacking only at seams and darts ✓ Smooth on the body • Inconspicuously attached to garment ✓ Free from wrinkles • Smoothly pressed ✓ Enhances the appearance of the wearer ✓ Complimentary style on the wearer FITTING • Line • Color Fitting molds flat cloth pieces to the body contours • Texture and allows the garment to be comfortable and attractive. Good fit is based on five factors: Fitting, an Example—Set-In Sleeves 1. Grain or yarn direction (relationship of the yarns 1. Grain or yarn direction in the fabric to the hang of garment on the body). ✓ Crosswise grain or yarn direction is parallel to ✓ the floor above the elbow Lengthwise grain is perpendicular to the floor ✓ ✓ Crosswise grain is parallel to the floor Lengthwise grain or yarn direction is perpen- ✓ Grain on the right side of garment matches that dicular to the floor above the elbow on the left side of garment 2. Line 2. Line (silhouette and seamlines of garment) ✓ Sleeve cap rests at end of the shoulder ✓ ✓ Silhouette lines on the garment follow the Curve of the armhole is smooth and gradual silhouette lines on the body ✓ Vertical seams fall perpendicular to the floor 3. Ease ✓ Vertical side seams divide the body in half ✓ Sleeve has adequate room for upper arm visually ✓ Sleeve is smooth and free from wrinkles ✓ Circumference lines follow the body circumfer- (diagonal wrinkles pointing to the cap indicate ence at neckline, waistline, and armhole additional length needed in the cap; crosswise ✓ Darts point toward and stop short of the fullest folds at the underarm indicate additional width part of the area they shape
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