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Quality Standards for Sewn Items/Projects

By: Kay Hendrickson, Jan Hiller, and Nancy Mordhorst

Introduction

An essential task for evaluating the quality of Many techniques can produce the same result. construction of any sewn item is to recognize and For example, a might be sewn by hand, sewn identify standards that give it a finished, profes- using a conventional machine or serger, or sional look. The purpose of this publication is to even fused using an innovative product. Fashion, list and describe specific characteristics that can be design, and notion trends continually change fit expected in high-quality construction of either and technique. Impartial evaluation is not based on home-sewn or ready-to-wear garments or other the method used, but on the end results when sewn items. These identified quality standards can measured by consistent standards. The construction serve as a basis for: techniques used should be compatible with the ✓ Self-evaluation of construction skills; item’s fabric, style, and purpose and, for home- ✓ Goals to work toward in an instructional sewn garments, the individual’s skill and available setting; sewing equipment. Regardless of the method used, ✓ Evaluation tools for comparing and the product should result in a detail, finish, or area evaluating ready-to-wear garments; and that is: ✓ Objective criteria for judging home-sewn ✓ Attractive or inconspicuous; projects entered in contests or fairs. ✓ Flat and smooth; ✓ This information can serve as a practical tool Free from bulk; ✓ for individuals, young or old, seeking to improve Characterized by secure stitching that is a their sewing skills, 4-H clothing and project uniform distance from an edge or fold; ✓ members and leaders, teachers, and judges. In an Functional; and ✓ objective evaluation, it is essential to play down Durable. personal preferences and base an appraisal on The standards outlined in this publication identified and accepted standards. Methods, refer to basic characteristics of sewn garments or techniques, and materials will change over time; other items, are organized by techniques and/or but the identified standards apply to almost all garment areas, and are presented in alphabetical construction techniques. order.

PNW 197 Washington • Oregon • Idaho Quality Standards Checklist

GENERAL APPEARANCE ✓ Reinforced with or reinforcement ✓ Overall neatness ✓ Appropriate spacing for size of button and ✓ Plaids, stripes, checks, and other designs are garment type matched at seams ✓ Suitable type for fabric and garment (e.g., dressy ✓ and fabric are compatible or sporty; light or heavy weight) ✓ Fabric with a directional design (such as vertical flowers) or nap (such as corduroy) is in a consistent direction, unless garment design requires variation ✓ Reinforced with interfacing ✓ are compatible with fabric and garment ✓ Flat design ✓ Secure with all stitching intact • Color ✓ Even in length, width, and equally spaced • Fiber ✓ Uniform in appearance • Weight ✓ Placed with the or direction of the • Design fabric ✓ Basting threads and construction markings have ✓ Appropriate length (large enough to allow been removed button to pass through easily, yet small enough ✓ Garment pressing is appropriate for fabric and to hold garment closed) style ✓ Correct placement • On right front of women’s garments BELT • On left front of men’s garments • Overlap wide enough to cover button ✓ Flat, smooth, free from bulkiness without gapping ✓ Straight belt is uniform in width • Overlay occurs where it was intended ✓ Contour belt has smooth, gradual curves (center front, center back, side seam, ) ✓ Interfacing, if used, is appropriate to maintain • Hold garment securely closed belt shape • Placed in the direction of strain from the ✓ Even, uniform shape at end of belt button (eliminates gapping) ✓ Closure is appropriate, attractive, durable, • Placed at the area of most strain secure, and functional ✓ Appropriate size and length for garment and Bound Buttonholes individual ✓ ✓ If used, belt carriers are secure and even Rectangle has perfectly square corners ✓ Rectangle has the appearance of being about 1/4 inch (6mm) wide ✓ Lips are even width ✓ Have a purpose, either functional or decorative ✓ Lips meet exactly at center of opening ✓ Securely and neatly fastened ✓ securely and neatly fastened to back of ✓ Have a (to allow room for the buttonholes fabric under the button) ✓ If bound buttonhole is meant to be a decorative ✓ Properly aligned with buttonholes; when design detail: buttoned, fabric is completely flat and smooth • Lips are even and stitched securely

2 ✓ Fabric for lips match, blend, or comple- ✓ Flat, smooth, and free of bulkiness ment the garment ✓ Appropriate button(s) and buttonhole(s) ✓ Outside of buttonhole is neat and flat • Button size is suitable or fabric and design Machine or Hand-Worked Buttonholes • Buttonhole size appropriate for button ✓ Interfacing is appropriate for design and fabric ✓ Stitched in that matches or • Maintains shape decoratively contrasts with fabric • Reinforces fabric ✓ Stitching is regular and smooth in appear- • Provides stability ance, and uniform in length CUFFS CASING ✓ Flat, smooth, and free from bulkiness ✓ Flat and smooth, without bulkiness; does not twist ✓ Enclosed seams are trimmed and graded ✓ Stitching is even and secure ✓ Interfacing is used appropriately to prevent seam ✓ Even in width allowance imprints ✓ Width allows drawstring or to be inserted ✓ Interfacing is appropriate for design and fabric easily and stay in place during wear • Maintains shape • Reinforces fabric • Provides stability ✓ Even in width ✓ Top stitching is even and secure, if used ✓ Built-in roll prevents cuff facing from showing ✓ Free from bulkiness ✓ Seamline is on the cuff edge, if two-piece cuff • Curved seams are clipped or notched ✓ Topstitching is even and secure, if used • Seams are trimmed and/or graded ✓ Only the top collar is visible • Seamline is just under the edge of the collar DARTS • Built-in roll prevents under-collar from ✓ Tapered and smooth showing • Come to a tapered point • Understitching or topstitching holds under- ✓ Stitching line is smooth and free of puckers, collar in place bubbles, or folds • Collar stays are inconspicuous, if used ✓ Ends are securely fastened ✓ Interfacing is appropriate for design and fabric ✓ Appear as straight lines from the outside of the • Maintains shape garment • Reinforces fabric ✓ Evenly spaced, if in groups • Provides stability ✓ Symmetrical in shape and length on the left and ✓ Enclosed is invisible on outside right side of the garment body • Appropriate use of interfacing to prevent ✓ Placed and shaped to conform to the body imprints from seam allowances ✓ Well-pressed • Collar is smoothly pressed • Vertical darts are pressed toward the center ✓ Left and right sides are uniform in shape, unless of the garment asymmetrically designed • Horizontal darts are pressed downward • Curve of collar • On bulky fabrics, darts are slashed and • Angle of collar points pressed open • Position in relation to center front or center back FACINGS Collar Stand ✓ Flat, smooth, free from bulkiness, pulling, or strain ✓ Even in width ✓ Enclosed seam graded, clipped, or notched

3 ✓ Interfaced, if needed, to prevent stretching, • Free of wrinkles that lie in folds, indicating provide stability, and maintain shape too much ✓ Free edge 4. Balance (hangs evenly from the body) • Secure, stable, and free from raveling • If finished, finish is flat, smooth, free from ✓ Design features and fitting factors are equal bulkiness • From right to left ✓ Not visible from the outside of the garment, yet • From top to bottom securely held in place • From front to back • Turned smoothly on the seamline • By understitching 5. Overall smoothness (freedom from wrinkles) • By tacking only at seams and darts ✓ Smooth on the body • Inconspicuously attached to garment ✓ Free from wrinkles • Smoothly pressed ✓ Enhances the appearance of the wearer ✓ Complimentary style on the wearer FITTING • Line • Color Fitting molds flat cloth pieces to the body contours • Texture and allows the garment to be comfortable and attractive. Good fit is based on five factors: Fitting, an Example—Set-In

1. Grain or yarn direction (relationship of the 1. Grain or yarn direction in the fabric to the hang of garment on the body). ✓ Crosswise grain or yarn direction is parallel to ✓ the floor above the elbow Lengthwise grain is perpendicular to the floor ✓ ✓ Crosswise grain is parallel to the floor Lengthwise grain or yarn direction is perpen- ✓ Grain on the right side of garment matches that dicular to the floor above the elbow on the left side of garment 2. Line 2. Line (silhouette and seamlines of garment) ✓ cap rests at end of the shoulder ✓ ✓ Silhouette lines on the garment follow the Curve of the armhole is smooth and gradual silhouette lines on the body ✓ Vertical seams fall perpendicular to the floor 3. Ease ✓ Vertical side seams divide the body in half ✓ Sleeve has adequate room for upper arm visually ✓ Sleeve is smooth and free from wrinkles ✓ Circumference lines follow the body circumfer- (diagonal wrinkles pointing to the cap indicate ence at , , and armhole additional length needed in the cap; crosswise ✓ Darts point toward and stop short of the fullest folds at the underarm indicate additional width part of the area they shape needed in the sleeve) ✓ is parallel to the floor, unless the garment ✓ Length is adequate for the style and wearer design dictates otherwise 4. Balance 3. Ease (looseness or tightness of the garment) ✓ Short sleeve is balanced on the arm ✓ Adequate ease for comfort • Hangs neither forward nor backward on the ✓ Correct amount of ease for smoothness arm • Neither too loose nor too tight • Doesn’t hug the arm • Free of wrinkles that pull and draw, ✓ Ease at the cap seamline is smooth and even indicating too little ease • Not puffy or puckered

4 • Fullness is evenly distributed between the free from drawing, and invisible on outside front and back bodice of the garment • Fused are acceptable if they do not 5. Overall smoothness alter hand or appearance of fabric, and are ✓ Sleeve is eased into garment, rather than the secure garment eased onto the sleeve • Pressed to avoid ridges ✓ Hang evenly and are a uniform distance from FUSING floor, unless the garment design dictates otherwise ✓ Secure ✓ Smooth and free of puckers HOOKS AND EYES, SNAPS, OTHER ✓ Invisible from the right side ✓ Garment edges are not stretched ✓ Does not significantly change hand, texture, ✓ Neat and/or color of the fabric • Attached with small, even stitches • Stitches do not show on the outside of the GATHERS garment ✓ Reinforced on the wrong side (usually with ✓ Uniform and evenly distributed (none are interfacing) stitched so as to form ) ✓ Location ✓ Full and attractive • sets are aligned • Are not pressed flat • Hooks are usually placed 1/8 inch (3mm) • Have enough fullness to not appear skimpy from the edge of overlap so it will be secure and lie flat HEMS ✓ Functional (correct placement of the two parts) ✓ ✓ Width Secure • Appropriate for weight of fabric, style of garment, and size of the individual INTERFACING • Adequate to suit present styles and provide ✓ Adds shape, body, and support enough weight to hang well • Free from bulkiness • Uniform in width • Does not change the character of the fabric ✓ Free from bulkiness ✓ Enhances the hang of the fabric • Fullness has been reduced or controlled by ✓ Color blends with the color of the fabric or is easing or shrinking; free from tucks or pleats inconspicuous, especially at buttonholes • Seams are pressed open and graded ✓ Prevents seam allowance from showing through • Seams are clipped at the edge of pleats to outside of the garment ✓ Flat and smooth ✓ Not visible (covered by the facing) • Edge is finished to prevent raveling, if ✓ Free from raveling needed ✓ Interfacing seams and darts are treated to • If finished, finish does not add bulk or eliminate bulkiness create ridge ✓ Interfacing weight is appropriate for fabric and • Seams are matched detail ✓ Inconspicuous (unless meant to be decorative) • If topstitched, stitching is uniform and corresponds with other topstitching on the garment ✓ Lie flat against body • Hemming stitches are evenly spaced, secure, ✓ Free from bulkiness

5 ✓ Left and right sides are uniform in shape • Does not pull at the corners and size • Free from raw or raveling edges ✓ Interfacing appropriate for design and fabric ✓ Functional (opens wide enough for use) • Maintains shape ✓ Constructed with matching or coordinating • Reinforces fabric fabric and thread • Provides stability ✓ Reinforced or taped on roll line in tailored PLEATS, TUCKS garments ✓ ✓ Only facing is visible above end of roll line Uniform in width, unless design requires variation ✓ • Seamline slightly under edge of Flat and pressed in one direction, except • Inner edge of facing is not visible released tucks and unpressed pleats ✓ Pressed appropriately ✓ Free from pressed-in ridges from hidden edges ✓ Free from marks from basting, ✓ Conceals inner construction ✓ Hang straight and even with adequate fullness ✓ Color and weight are coordinated with garment fabric ✓ Care requirements are compatible with garment fabric Patch ✓ Fits smoothly inside the garment ✓ Flat and smooth ✓ Has a neat, finished appearance ✓ Decorative and attractive ✓ Lining and garment seamlines are aligned ✓ Positioned correctly on body ✓ Fit allows for body movement ✓ Even topstitching • Vertical in the back lining of jacket or • Length of coat • Distance from edge • Ease length allowed in the fold at the ✓ Stitching suitable to fabric and garment design bottom of the sleeve and at the garment ✓ Facing on hem in proportion to shape and size hem of jacket of pocket ✓ Free-hanging lining linked to the garment seams ✓ Upper corners are reinforced at with thread tacks ✓ Square corners are mitered ✓ Seam allowances on square corners are flat and NEEDLEWORK, DECORATIVE inconspicuous General standards to consider when used as decora- In-Seam Pocket tion on a garment: ✓ Not visible, unless meant to be decorative ✓ Secure ✓ Lies flat; does not gap; lining invisible ✓ Uniform ✓ Seam or foldline reinforced to prevent stretching ✓ Flat and smooth; free from unwanted pulling ✓ Appropriate technique used Welt Pocket – Single Welt, Double Welt (bound), ✓ Enhances the garment and is attractive Flap ✓ Care requirements are compatible with the ✓ Flat, smooth, and even in width fashion fabric ✓ Free from bulkiness or buckling ✓ Corners are secure and symmetrical ✓ Flat, smooth, and neat PRESSING ✓ Free from bulkiness ✓ Garment surface is smooth and free from ✓ Secure and durable; end does not pucker wrinkles

6 ✓ Original appearance of the fabric has been • Curved seams lie flat and are clipped or maintained notched • Free from overpressing or iron imprints • Free from puckering • Free from shine, scorching, or melting • Pressed open or in correct direction without • Free from flattened nap or pile leaving an imprint on the outside of the • Free from imprints of construction details garment on outside of garment • Finished to prevent raveling, if needed • Free from water or mineral spots • Finish is flat, smooth, and free from bulkiness ✓ Seams and darts are pressed smoothly on the ✓ Fullness is eased and smooth stitching line; fabric does not fold over stitching ✓ Crossed seams meet line or look bubbled ✓ Design patterns and plaids meet ✓ Garment areas pressed over curves where ✓ Fabric is free from runs or pulling garment will fit over body curves (shaping ✓ Reinforced where appropriate for technique and pressed in) fabric (shoulder, armhole, waistline, crotch; stretchy knit or loosely woven fabric) RIBBED NECK, CUFF, HEM ✓ Crotch seams and lower armhole seam • Curve smooth and gradual ✓ Flat and smooth, with no puckering • Reinforced by stretch stitch, multiple rows ✓ Stitching is secure, even, and durable of stitching, or tape • Even seam allowance • Free from bulkiness • Reinforced, if needed ✓ If done, top stitching is even and attractive ✓ Even in width ✓ Free from bulkiness SLEEVES ✓ Fullness is evenly distributed ✓ Smooth SEAMS • Curve or armhole is smooth and gradual • Smoothly rounded cap ✓ Stitching is secure and even • Ease, gathers, darts, or tucks are evenly • Balanced tension distributed • Stitch length is appropriate for fabric and ✓ Appropriately trimmed, clipped and reinforced even, except where shortened for reinforce- for the type of sleeve ment ✓ Free from raveling (finish on seam allowance if • Uniform pressure from needed to prevent raveling) • Free from puckering, and skipped or broken ✓ Free from drawing or pulling stitches • Free from tangles or knots • Reinforced at ends with backstitching or UNDERSTITCHING knotting ✓ Holds facing in place (neckline, collar, cuff, • Loose threads have been clipped pocket) ✓ Thread color matches or blends with garment ✓ Not visible on outside of garment fabric ✓ Thread blends with fabric ✓ Thread fiber and type is appropriate ✓ Done from right side of facing through facing ✓ Seam allowances are flat and smooth and all seam allowances after seam allowances • Even in width were trimmed, graded, clipped, or notched • Crossed seams have been trimmed to eliminate bulkiness • Enclosed seams have been trimmed and graded to reduce bulkiness ✓ Smooth and free from bulkiness

7 ✓ Uniform in width ✓ Corners are square, tab comes to a point, unless ✓ design indicates Stitching is straight and even ✓ ✓ Cut on grain or with yarn direction , when closed, is flat and smooth ✓ Interfacing appropriate for design and fabric • Free from puckers and ripples • Maintains shape • tape is covered by the placket • Reinforces fabric • Placket is open to end of zipper teeth unless • Provides stability zipper has been shortened, then chain or ✓ Overlap is flush with placket; underlap extends coil is securely held with several stitches beyond the placket and under the band for side • Horizontal seams meet across the placket or opening ✓ ✓ Waistband is sewn onto or pants smoothly Zipper does not or poke ✓ Zipper tape does not show, unless part of design ✓ Correct length to be useful WAISTLINE SEAMS ✓ Slides easily and does not catch ✓ Inconspicuous, smooth, and flat ✓ If the zipper tape is intended to be exposed, it ✓ All seams and details finished and pressed before should show evenly the length of the zipper and waistline was stitched equally on both sides of the zipper ✓ Secured with a waistline stay, if necessary ✓ Compatible weight with fabric • Adds reinforcement ✓ Color compatible with fabric • Prevents stretching • Stay can be woven seam , tape, or ribbon

Authors: Kay Hendrickson, Area FL Agent, Benton/Franklin Counties Jan Hiller, Extension 4-H Youth Development Specialist Nancy Mordhorst, Extension 4-H Coordinator

Pacific Northwest Extension Publications contain material written and produced for public distribution. You may reprint written material, provided you do not use it to endorse a commercial product. Please reference by title and credit Pacific Northwest Extension Publications.

Pacific Northwest Extension bulletins are jointly produced by the three Pacific Northwest states—Washington, Oregon, and Idaho. Similar crops, climate, and topography create a natural geographic unit that crosses state lines. Since 1949, the PNW program has published more than 500 titles. Joint writing, editing, and production have prevented duplication of effort, broadened the availability of faculty specialists, and substantially reduced costs for the participating states.

Issued by Washington State University Extension; Oregon State University Extension Service; the University of Idaho Extension System; and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, in furtherance of the Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914. Extension programs and policies comply with federal and state laws and regulations on nondiscrimination regarding race, color, gender, national origin, religion, age, disability, and sexual orientation. Reprinted February 2004. $1.00. PNW 197