Godet Skirt Fii05001 Table of Contents

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS GODET SKIRT FII05001 TABLE OF CONTENTS

METHODOLOGY ...... 3

Symbology ...... 3 Suggested equipment ...... 4 Things you need ...... 5 Pattern pieces ...... 6 Sewing technology ...... 7 How to read instruction ...... 10

SEWING ...... 11

1. Darts ...... 11 2. Serging ...... 12 3. Back ...... 12 4. Frill ...... 13 5. Side seams ...... 15 6. Lining darts ...... 16 7. Back ...... 17 8. Side seams ...... 18 9. Hemline ...... 19 10. Waistband and zipper ...... 20 11. Hemline ...... 26

GLOSSARY ...... 29

Godet skirt FII05001 Page 2 Table of contents METHODOLOGY

SYMBOLOGY

PATTERN MARKINGS

SEWING LINE CUTTING LINE

CENTER LINE FOLD LINE

PLACEMENT LINE GRAINLINE

GATHER STRETCH

BUTTONHOLE BUTTONHOLE

BUTTON PLACEMENT NOTCH

SEAM STRUCTURE

INTERFACING FABRIC

ZIPPER SERGE

CENTER LINE SERGER STITCH

SEWING LINE FOLD LINE

Godet skirt METHODOLOGY FII05001 Page 3 Symbology SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT

Sewing machine Iron Sewing Board Serger

Universal foot Serger foot Overedge foot Invisible zipper foot

Dressmaking Sewing needle for Seam ripper Rotary cutter shears hand stitch

7 3 6

4 2

2 1 1

Thread snips Tailors chalk or Bobbins Ruler soap

3” 4 8

3” 1” 1” 1

1 4 2

1 8

1” 1”

4 1”

8 5”

Tape measure Pins Seam gauge Machine needle

Buttonhole foot

Godet skirt METHODOLOGY FII05001 Page 4 Suggested equipment THINGS YOU NEED

• Fabric • Sewing thread • Sewing needle / Universal • Serger threads • Fussible interfacing • 8” - 12” (20 - 30 cm) Invisible zipper

The approximate minimum and maximum amount of fabric

BODY MEASUREMENTS FABRIC 55” (140 cm)

BODY HEIGH T 65” (164 cm)

MI N BUST 33” (84 cm) 126” (320 cm)

HIP 36” (91 cm)

BODY HEIGHT 73” (185 cm)

MA X BUST 59” (150 cm) 193” (490cm)

HIP 60” (152 cm)

Recommended fabrics:

FABRIC TYPE WEIGHT / oz (g) ELASTANE %

Charmeuse Medium 0-3 % Satin /6oz - 8oz (170g - 227g)/ Rayon Challis Medium Heavy Georgette /8oz - 10oz (227g - 283g)/ Silk Jersey Suiting

Godet skirt METHODOLOGY FII05001 Page 5 Things you need PATTERN PIECES

AB A

B C BA

D E F

SKIRT FABRIC PIECES

Front A Back Right B Back Le C Waistband AA Front Frill AB Back Frill BA

SKIRT LINING PIECES

Front D Back Le E Back Right F

* Depending on the width of your fabric and on your body measurements, if your pattern pieces do not t the width of the fabric, you will need to divide them and make an additional cut line.

Godet skirt METHODOLOGY FII05001 Page 6 Pattern pieces SEWING TECHNOLOGY

Fabric key

Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of fabric fabric lining lining interfacing interfacing

Interfacing placement on garment

Laying out and cutting fabric

Fabric grainlines: lengthwise; crosswise; bias grains;

Godet skirt METHODOLOGY FII05001 Page 7 Sewing technology =” =”

1. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 2. Place the right side of the fabric facing down on the table. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper.

Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. Mark dart points and matchpoints.

Fuse the interfacing to the fabric: Place the resin side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Press the interfacing to the fabric by using heat, steam and pressure. To fuse, start on one edge, place the iron straight down, lean in, and add pressure for 20 seconds. Check the bonding by trying to peel the interfacing away from one corner of the fabric. The fusing should be secure. Let the fused fabric cool down. Aer fusing, the interfacing and fabric will be stitched as one piece of fabric.

Godet skirt METHODOLOGY FII05001 Page 8 Sewing technology AA

Place the patterns on a single layer of the fabric + interfacing. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. Cut the fabric.

BA CA

B C

zipper placement

Take a piece of fuse interfacing. You are going to need this to cut the parts of pattern pieces that need to be fused. Place the patterns on a single layer of interfacing on the grain. Cut the fabric.

SKIRT INTERFACING PIECES

Zipper placement BA Zipper placement CA

Godet skirt METHODOLOGY FII05001 Page 9 Sewing technology HOW TO READ INSTRUCTION

SERGE illustration

action

Finishing the side seams.

PLACE

seam structure

Place and pin the side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges.

SEW

Sew the side seams.

instruction

Godet skirt METHODOLOGY FII05001 Page 10 How to read instruction

BY PURCHASING A SEWING PATTERN,

YOU GET A COMPREHENSIVE SEWING

AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION

Thank you, Fayma Team