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Home , Button, Collar (clothing), Ease (sewing), Facing (sewing), Hem, Neckline

E-403 05-06

Clothing Quality Standards

lothing construction is a creative skill; it can become an art with time, practice, and the ability to make Cwise decisions. Many techniques can be used to produce the same end result. The technique chosen should be compatible with the garment style, the fabric, the sewing equipment available, and the individual’s skill. Changing trends in sewing equipment and fabrics can influence the techniques that are appropriate for creating garments. Time-saving construction methods are in tune with busy lifestyles and, when used appropriately, can result in high-quality garments. Even though fabrics and sewing techniques may change, quality standards do not. Garments worn often should be of higher quality than those seldom worn. Only you can decide what quality, price and Extension Family Development wearability you want for a particular garment. In general, and Resource Management Specialists a high-quality garment looks professionally made, holds up through wear and care, fits well, and is becoming to the individual. The following quality standards apply to the general appearance and construction of home-sewn garments. Appearance Standards

Fabric, and construction techniques must work to- gether to create a professional-looking garment. The fabric should have the correct weight and drape for the design. Finishing details should complement the fabric and the gar- ment. The garment should look attractive, even and appro- priate, both on and off the body. The garment fit should be becoming and reflect current trends. Construction techniques should not be obvious nor distract from the total garment. 2......

Fabric Coordination and Selection • Have proper length and fit. Fabric(s) should: • Have darts and design details that are properly placed. • Be suited to the design. (Read the pattern envelope for information concerning • Have correct and properly placed shoulder one-way designs, napped fabric, knits, etc. Inex- length unless the design dictates otherwise. perienced sewers should use the fabrics recom- • Have and armholes that fit the body mended on the pattern envelope.) without gapping or straining. • Have the same care characteristics or be easily • Have or pant length appropriate for the removed for laundering/dry-cleaning. (This style and individual. applies to trims also.) • Have fullness and length appropriate for • Be flattering to the personal characteristics, the style and individual. style and coloring of the individual. • Hang straight and parallel. • Coordinate with one another in terms of design, color, weight and texture. • Have balanced . (In woven fabrics the Construction Standards lengthwise and crosswise threads will be at right angles unless on the bias. In knit fab- There are many sewing techniques that can be used. rics the courses and ribs will be at right angles.) We each have techniques we prefer—and some that we don’t. Some standards apply to almost all techniques. • Have a content and texture suited to ap- For example, almost all construction techniques should parel design. result in a finish or detail that is inconspicuous, func- • Have a design that is matched, centered or bal- tional and durable. anced. • Be used so that the nap runs in the same direc- Armholes and Neckline Facings tion on all parts of a garment. Well-constructed armholes and should: Fabric Preparation • Fit smoothly. Neither the neckline nor the should show from the outside of the Fabrics properly prepared should be: finished garment (unless it is designed to be • Preshrunk (laundered or dry-cleaned) using the stitched to the outside as a decorative, function- recommended method of care, including inner al piece). fabrics. • Be the same shape and grain as the edge to be 1 • “ perfect,” with lengthwise and cross- faced (usually 2 ⁄2 to 3 inches wide and even in wise threads at right angles to one another. To width throughout). determine this, pull a thread on woven fabrics • Be flat, smooth and free from bulk. and cut along a wale or course on knits. • Have appropriately finished outside edges (ac- • Made “piece perfect,” with lengthwise and cording to fabric type/weight) to prevent ravel- crosswise ends at right angles, if at all possible. ing. • Be securely held in place by understitching Fit and tacking at seams or by stitching. A A properly fitted garment should: professional looking facing will never be hand • Be fashionable and have an attractive fit. The stitched all the way around the outside edge of amount of and fullness changes from year the facing. to year according to fashion trends. • Be interfaced to prevent stretching and sagging, • Fit smoothly over . to cushion the enclosed seam, to reinforce the area, to support the facing and garment, and to • Have the appropriate amount of ease for body provide shape. movement...... 3

Buttons and • Positioned so that the can be secured and will ride slightly toward the garment edge Well-constructed should: in a horizontal and toward the top • Fit the purpose to which they are intended— in a vertical buttonhole. functional or decorative. • Neatly slashed and unsightly threads removed. • Be neat in appearance on the right and wrong • Made with secure stitching and have sides of the garment. “lips.” • Be securely fastened with double thread and neat stitches. Casing • Have a (thread or part of the button) to A well-formed casing should: accommodate the thickness of the fabric it will button through. • Be flat, uniform and of even width. • Be reinforced, according to use and fabric type, • Have a row of stitching at the top (head) and with and/or another button. lower edge of the casing. • Be spaced in good proportion between top and • Be slightly wider than the drawstring. bottom opening and in relation to the other but- tons. • Be placed in relation to the buttonhole on the A well-applied collar should: center line or lap line. The should be • Be smooth and free from wrinkles. The outer smooth and flat so there is no gaping or pulling edge seam should not be visible from the right when buttons are secured in buttonholes. side. • Be the appropriate size and style for the gar- • Have smooth curves or sharp points (the same ment design and fabric. shape and length) depending on the type and • Have no rough edges. style of collar. • Be smooth when covered with fabric and have • Have bulk properly distributed through grad- no “shine” or off-color visible from the base. ing/layering, notching, clipping and/or trim- ming. Well-constructed buttonholes should be: • Fit the neckline area without unsightly gaps or • Neat in appearance on the right and wrong wrinkles. sides of the garment. • Be interfaced properly to maintain shape. • Flat and attractive. • Be understitched on the outer seam edge to roll • Made with the grain of the fabric unless a bias- under the seam. cut garment or unusual design dictates other- • Be well pressed. wise. • An equal distance apart, unless spaced for spe- Darts, Ease, Gathers, , , cial design effects. Tucks • An even distance from the garment edge and A well-constructed fitting should: aligned with the center line or lap line. • Be directed toward the body curve. • Sized in relation to the button size and thick- 1 ness. • Usually end ⁄2 to 1 inch from the fullest part of the body curve. • Applied to an area that has been properly inter- faced. • Be tapered so it is smooth and free of puckers. • The same length and width when the same • Be even and smooth in appearance. size/shape button has been used. • Be pressed before being crossed by another line • Spaced according to the size of the button and of stitching. garment design/function. Buttons and button- • Have threads secured at both ends by tying a holes should hold a garment securely closed knot, lock stitching or back-stitching (use only without strain or stress. on medium to heavy fabric or in a seam line). 4......

Well-constructed gathers, pleats, shirring and • Usually use a single thread for hand-worked tucks should: and basting and a double thread to secure • Be distributed evenly and/or in accordance hook and eyes, snaps and buttons, and to with the garment design. seams. • Be even and smooth in appearance. • Be neat and well formed, appropriately spaced, and secured with no thread ends showing or • Hang straight without pulling. unsightly thread “mess” visible. • Have ease for comfort but appear as a straight • Be invisible on the right side when hemming or silhouette (pleats). tacking seams. • Provide relaxed but defined fullness. They may be used in place of gathers or fitting darts Hems (tucks). A well-made should: • Be inconspicuous on the right side, except when (Hooks and Eyes, Snaps, Self-Gripping) it is a decorative part of the garment design. • Be an appropriate distance from the floor. Well-constructed, well-applied fasteners should be: • Be even in width and an appropriate depth for the fabric and garment design. • Appropriate for the garment design and fabric being used. • Be free from bulk in seams that fall within the hem area. • Applied to an area that has been reinforced with interfacing. • Have fullness eased in and evenly distributed for a smooth, flat appearance. • Secured so that stitches do not show on the right side of the garment/fabric. • Have an edge appropriately finished for the type and weight of fabric and hem to be • Appropriately placed so edges are held togeth- used. er smoothly and evenly. • Be firmly secured with a hem stitch appropriate • Used appropriately. Use a straight eye when for the fabric and the hem edge finish. edges lap, round eye when edges meet, hooks 1 and eyes for strain openings, and snaps for • Be neat with evenly spaced hand stitches ⁄ 2 inch 1 areas with little stress. The ball side of a snap apart and with about ⁄8 inch give (or have even and the loop side of a self-gripping are machine stitching). placed on the overlap side. • Be lightly pressed.

Hand Stitching Interfacing A well-made hand stitch will: A suitable, well-applied interfacing should: • Be composed of a thread type, weight/thick- • Be appropriate for the outer fabric’s fiber con- ness and color suitable to the situation for , care and construction type (knit, woven, which it is used. Buttonhole twist is used for non-woven) and for the manner in which it is hand-worked buttonholes and can be used for applied (sew-in versus fusible). Interfacing fab- sewing on buttons and for top stitching. Heavi- rics range from commercially designed fabrics er and decorative threads, such as to self-fabric. and metallic, can be used for decorative stitch- • Be, or have, the same “grain” or “give” as the ing. Use the same color, or slightly darker, when outer fabric with which it is used. permanently stitching. • Coordinate in color as closely as possible. Use • Have a uniform stitch formation that is appro- a light color with light-colored fashion fabrics priate to the fabric and garment for which it is and dark with dark. used. • Provide the appropriate support or reinforce- • Have thread ends appropriately secured at the ment needed to improve the shape of the gar- beginning and ending of the stitching. If a knot ment or area. Interfacing is used in the appro- is used in permanent stitching, it should be out priate locations in a garment. of sight against an inside layer of fabric...... 5

• Not alter the color or hand of the outer fabric. Pressing If an appropriate weight cannot be found, it is A well-pressed garment should: best to use a lighter interfacing than a heavier one. • Maintain the original texture of the fabric. • Appear flat and smooth with no bubbles, • Show no shine or press marks on the right side wrinkles or folds. of the fabric. • Not be visible or noticeable from the outside/ • Have no wrinkles or crinkled areas. right side of the garment. • Have seams and darts pressed smoothly on the • the design, so it may vary in type and stitching line, so that the fabric does not fold weight within the same garment. Multiple over the stitching line or look bubbled. Edges of types and weights of interfacing could be used seam allowances and fold edges of darts do not depending on the area and function. form ridges on the right side of the garment. • Have no water-spot or steam marks. Markings • Help create and maintain the proper shape and Markings should: curve to the garment and the various garment segments (collar, sleeve, etc.). • Be appropriate for the fabric. • Not show on the right side of the fabric. Seams, Seam Finishes, Seam Treatments • Not leave holes or discoloration in the fabric. A well-constructed seam should: Machine Stitching • Be smooth and even in appearance on the inside and outside of garment. Machine ten- A well-made stitch will: sion, stitch length and pressure are • Use a thread type and needle size appropriate properly adjusted to suit the fabric and thread. to the fabric and situation for which it is used. • Be even in width throughout. Generally, the finer the fabric, the finer the • Be secure. needle and thread. (Thread expands to or takes up the entire area created by the needle.) There • Be pressed open (and with no puckers) or should be no excessive holes created by the pressed properly according to the type of seam needle. it is and the way it is used in garment construc- tion. • Be a controlled, consistent length appropriate to the fabric and situation for which it is used. • Be stitched with thread appropriate to the fabric As a general rule, the heavier the fabric, the type, fabric content and color. (Thread color longer the stitch; the lighter weight the fabric, should match or be slightly darker than the the shorter the stitch. Within this rule adjust- fabric.) ments are made according to fabric texture and • Have consistent stitch length. structure. • Be flat and trimmed and/or graded, if needed, • Have equally balanced top and bottom threads to reduce bulk. that look the same on both sides of the fabric • Match fabric designs such as plaids and stripes. (appropriate thread tension). • Be the type of stitching (regular sewing ma- A well-applied seam finish: chine or overcast/serger) or stitch pattern (stan- • Is appropriate to the type and weight of fabric. dard or decorative) appropriate to the fabric • Is smooth and neat in appearance inside and and situation for which it is used. out. • Be appropriately secured at the beginning and • Does not create excess bulk. end of the line of stitching. • Is not visible from the right side of the garment. • Be spaced an appropriate distance from the edge of the fabric according to the function of • Is even in width throughout. the stitching. • Uses understitching to “roll under” an enclosed • Be neat, straight, and fit the purpose for which seam and is not visible on the right side. it was done (functional or decorative). • Uses reinforcement stitches on areas of stress. 6......

Sleeves A well-constructed and correctly fitted set-in A well-constructed waistband should: sleeve should: • Be smooth, flat, and free from bulk and wrin- • Have a smooth, rounded with no pleats or kles. gathers unless they are a garment design fea- • Be even in width according to the garment ture. style. • Be applied so that there is ease in the underarm • Be on-grain and reinforced or interfaced to area and in the sleeve cap area. maintain shape. • Have a good armhole line resulting from • Have underlap under the waistband and extend straight, even stitching, and well-matched seam beyond the placket unless the pattern indicates lines that conform to the body. differently; overlap should be even with the • Have a crosswise grain parallel to the floor, a placket unless the pattern indicates differently. lengthwise grain perpendicular to the floor, and • Have the skirt or pants eased slightly on the no diagonal wrinkles. waistband. • Have evenly distributed gathers in gathered • Have square corners at the ends of the - set-in . band. • Have seams finished appropriately for the fab- • Be securely stitched with smooth, even stitch- ric. ing. • Be comfortable with no . • Have appropriate fasteners that are properly located and secured in place. A well-constructed sleeve should: • Be correctly positioned on the body. and • Be shaped properly and on-grain. A well-constructed zipper placket and well-ap- • Not have gathers or puckers. plied zipper should: • Be flat when closed and neat in appearance. The A well-constructed sleeveless garment should: zipper should lie smooth without stretching or • Hug the body without binding. puckering of the fabric. • Fit the curve of the arm accurately. • Have smooth, even stitches, evenly spaced from • Have a facing seam that is graded, under- the placket edge. 1 stitched, free from bulk, smooth and flat. • Have stitching across the bottom opening ⁄8 • Have the facing tacked loosely at seams. inch beyond the zipper stop. 1 • Be ⁄2 inch from the underarm. • Have thread ends secured and hidden in folds of fabric so that they will not be caught in the Topstitching zipper teeth. Topstitching should: • Be a weight compatible with the fabric (light with light, heavy with heavy). • Be a straight line or smooth curve, whichever is appropriate. • Have seam lines matching, if the zipper crosses a seam. • Have stitch length (usually longer) and ten- sion (usually looser on top) appropriate for the • Have matching fabric design, if needed, such as fabric. stripes and plaids. • Have the ends of the stitching pulled to the wrong side to secure appropriately...... 7

A well-constructed zipper placket should: A zipper should be: • Be properly prepared and pressed before the • Suited in terms of weight, size and length to zipper is inserted. the garment design, the fabric and the opening • Be sized to the zipper length. location on the garment. Its color should match 1 or coordinate with the fabric color. • Leave ⁄4 inch at the top of a neckline zipper for a fastener. • Concealed beneath the edge of a placket over- lap from top to bottom. • Be the same length on both sides. • Positioned to fit the placket opening. The plack- et should open to the end of the zipper teeth and close at the top of the zipper. (There should not be a “hole” above a skirt/pant or neckline zipper placement.)

This publication was adapted from “Clothing Quality Standards,” developed by Cynthia Klumpp, Master Clothing Volunteer Coordinator with the Cooperative Extension Service at the University of Arkansas.