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Home , Pleat, Zipper

E~ M. 2386 March 1964

MAKING A TAILORED

Hazel L. Roberts Extension Specialist

AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE • WASHINGTON STATE UNIVERSITY • PULLMAN In cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture Issued in furtherance of the Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, by the Washington State University Agricultural Extension Service, C. A. Svinth, Director March, 1964 E. M. 2386

MAKING A TAILORED SKIRT

Hazel L. Roberts Ext ens ion Clothing Specialist

The tailored; appearance of a skirt often depends on the fabric, and construction.

Invest in a good quality fabric as it will be easier to handle and wear longer. Poor quality fabrics look old and worn much before quality fabrics. The fabric has a great deal to do with the finished garment.

In , flannels and tweeds are good choices as they wear well and are easy to . Woolens are easier to handle than worsteds.

A loosely woven woolen for a straight two-piece skirt would have to be both underlined and lined. This would add more construction steps and should be undertaken only by those with more ability and patience.

Check the fabric label for fiber content, finishes and care. It is important to find out if the fabric has been pre-shrunk.

CONSTRUCTING THE SKIRT - Use the pattern guide sheet; Learn to Sew Series and Skills for suggested techniques.

- Staystitch the curved edges. - darts and tucks. - Stitch side seams. - Put in the . - Put on the . - the skirt.

SKIRT SEAMS -

The seams should be pressed open unless a top stitched type of is used. Seams vary in their finish. They can be plain, edgestitched, pinked, overcasted or bound. If the fabric ravels, stitch 1/8 inch from the plain or pinked edges. If the fabric ravels a great deal an overcast stitch or bound seam may need to be used. If bound seams are used check to see that their pressing does not show on the right side. E. M. 2386 Page 2

ZIPPER -

There are several ways of putting in a zipper . The zipper and tape must be completely covered. Do not stretch the fabric in putting· in the zipper. Follow the construction information with the zipper or E. M. 2024. In many fabrics the zipper put in by hand is neater than when put in by machine. A back stitch or catch stitch may be used if put in by hand. Check "Sewing Skills" for more information.

WAISTBAND-

Check the information given in the pattern guide sheet or E. M. 2024. If is used and is heavy then omit the extra layer of wool fabric in the waistband. Sew on hooks and eyes following the information in E. M. 2024.

HEM-

Preparing the hem:

a. Mark the length of the skir·t, ·turn the hem on this line and baste . . Try on for a final checK on length and evenness.

b. Measure and an even hem width. Clip excess fabric from the opened seams in the hem.

c. Shrink fullness out of hem. Machine baste 1/4 inch from the cut edge. Pull the bottom to in the excess fullness so the hem will lie flat.

d. Steam press (not iron) the hem. To prevent an imprint of the hem from showing on the right side of the skirt, place a piece of brown wrapping paper in the hem allowance while shrinking and pressing.

Stitching the hem:

There are different ways to finish a hem. Select a method which is incon­ spicuous on the right side of the skirt. The weight and firmness of the fabric will in£1 uence the method selected.

Some suggested methods are:

1. Taped Hem

a. Prepare the hem and apply seam tape.

b. Baste 1/8 inch from the tape edge through the tape and skirt. E. M. 2386 Page 3

c. Fold back the tape edge along the basted line and stitch along the fold catching the skirt and tape alternately about every half inch. Do not draw or pull the thread tightly. Be sure to shrink the seam tape before applying it to the hem. This is a neat hem; however, sometimes it is difficult to match the skirt color.

2. Tailor's Hem

This method is often used in heavy fabrics. If it ravels it may be edgestitched, pinked or overcasted.

a. Prepare the hem and baste to the skirt just inside the 1/4 inch machine basted line.

b. Turn back the hem along the basting. Insert the needle into the machine stitching on the hem edge and slip stitch to the skirt.

3. Catch stitch may be used for heavy, bulky fabrics that do not fray badly.

a. Shrink out fullness as mentioned above.

b. Fasten the hem to skirt with a catch stitch. Working from left to right, take a small stitch in the hem then a small stitch in the fabric. Hold the needle so that it points to the left. To prevent the hem from showing on the right side of the skirt do not pull the thread tightly.

PLEATS WITH A SEAM -

a. Press to one side and mark a . Clip the seam so that it can be pres sed open in the hem. Grade the seam. or b. Leave the seam open for 8 inches above the bottom edge of the skirt. Hem the skirt. Stitch the open section of the seam through the finished hem. Miter the corner of the seam at the hemline, turn in, do not , whipstitch corner together. The outside fold of the may be whipstitched together at the bottom of the skirt.

FIT OF THE SKIRT -

Check these points:

- , should fit snug with enough to slip your fingers under it. A waistline too tight will cause the skirt to ride up and wrinkle. E. M. 2386 Page 4

- Hipline, the fit should be easy enough so the skirt does not cup. Too tight a fit makes the skirt pull and wrinkle across the lap when you are seated.

- Side seams should hang straight, perpendicular to the floor.

- Length, check the current style but be influenced by what is best for your figure type. The middle of the calf of the leg is often becoming.

- Hemline must hang even. Dips and droops in the hemline can spoil the looks of that well tailored skirt.

LINING -

Many skirts look smarter and stay smart looking through long hard wear if you line them. A helps to preserve the general shape of the skirt. Most straight skirts of wool or soft fabric which stretches need a drum in the back; attached lining or separate lining. A light weight or soft wool should be lined to prevent horizontal wrinkles in front and "spring seating" in the back. Skirt linings may be cut by the skirt pattern. Completely back a six skirt. In a heavier weight fabric to eliminate some bulk seam the front and back seams separately and sew in the side seams.

The choice of lining fabric for the skirt depends on the purpose of the lin­ ing. The lining fabric must be firmly woven if it is to prevent stretching.

For slim skirts, a closely woven fabric is a preferred lining fabric be­ cause it has the tensile strength needed to keep the skirt from cupping. E. M. 2386 Page 5

HALF LINING OR DRUM -

In firmer fabrics a half lining over the hipline area may be adequate.

- Use the pattern as a guide, cut the lining 15 to 18 inches long from the waistline past the fullest part of the hips.

- The hemline of the lining may be pinked and stitched. Some pre­ fer to cut this lining on the crosswise with the edge used as a hemline.

- The darts and s earns of the lining and fabric may be stitched to­ gether as one layer of fabric or constructed separately and attached under waistband and around zipper.

UNDERLINING. -

Lining sewn in with the seams as an underlining.

a. One method of underlining a straight, gored or A line skirt is to treat the skirt and lining as one layer of fabric. Mark darts and other construction information on the lining only. Stitch darts, tucks and side seams through both thicknesses of fabric. Put in zipper, waistband and hem.

b. Another method of underlining a straight skirt is to stitch the darts and side seams in the. skirt and put in the zipper. Stitch the side seams in the lining. Press the lining waistline darts toward side seams. With wrong sides together stitch the fabric and lining together at the hem and waistline. Slip stitch the lining around the zipper. Finish waistband and hem.

Hemline for the underlined skirt:

a. The lining and the fabric may be stitched together at the cut edge. On the fold line where the hem turns back on the lining you may wish to use a loose running stitch to attach fabric to the lining. Turn up the hem and slip stitch to the lining only. E. M. 2386 Page 6

or b. The lining may be cut off at the fold line where the hem turns up. The hem is slip stitched to the lining only.

If the skirt has a pleat here is one method for constructing the lining of the pleat.

Slash the lining from where the stitching for the pleat ends to the fold of the pleat. Part of the lining will fall under the pleat. Turn under a and catch- stitch the lining to the fabric along the slashed edge across the top and along the folded pleat line.

SKIRT WITH SEPARATE LINING -

a. Without pleat:

Skirt -

(a) Staystitch, make the darts and press the darts toward center back over a tailor's ham.

(b) Complete the skirt except the waistband and hem. E. M. 2386 Page 7

Lining-

(a) Complete the lining leaving the right side open below the waist approximately 7 3/4 inches.

(b) With wrong sides together sew the lining to the skirt waistline.

(c) Slip stitch the lining in place around the zipper.

(d) Put on the skirt waistband.

(e) Hem the skirt and lining separately. If you are familiar with your skirt pattern and how the skirt will hang you may be able to hem both the skirt and lining before joining them together at the waistline. b. With a pleat:

Skirt -

(a) Cut the center back, allowing approximately 2i inches for back s earn and pleat.

(b) Staystitch the front and back skirt. Stitch darts and press toward the center back over a tailor's ham.

(c) Sew center back skirt seam, back stitch at the top of the pleat, lengthen the stitch and baste the remaining s earnline which will form the pleat.

(d) Stearn press the seam open.

(e) Baste-stitch the seam at the waistline. E. M . 238 6 Page 8

(f) Remove the basted pleat seam.

(g) Hem the skirt.

(h) Turn on the pleat line and finish the edge as the hem was finished.

Lining -

(a) Allow for a 5 /8 not a zt inch center back seam.

(b) Staystitch, sew the darts and press toward side seams over the tailor's ham.

(c) Sew the side s earns to within 8 inches of the lower edge, tie the threads or . Machine baste the remaining 8 inches.

(d) Press the seams open. Make II 1/4 inch along this 8 -inch I seamline area. \ 0 (e) Hem the lining. E. M. 2386 Page 9

Underlay

(a) Cut an underlay of the skirt fabric approximately 11 inches by 11 inches. Pink and edge stitch.

(b) Press and slipstitch hem at the lower edge of the underlay.

(c) Stitch the underlay to the lining. Place wrong sides together with the lower edges even and stitch. E. M . 2386 Page 10

SKIRT LINES CAN FLATTER YOU

If you are tall and thin - Use skirts which flare, moderately bouffant skirts. Wide belts in contrasting color or other horizontal lines are be­ coming. You can wear coordinated colors, contrasting colors, plain and print, stripe or plaid. Slim skirts and narrow belts are not as flattering to your figure.

If you are tall with a full figure - Gored or skirts with a little flare are be­ coming. Select a skirt with easy fit at waist and hips with a narrow belt. Your costume of separates should be of one color or the color should be closely related. Full skirts, skirts too tight, or hipline detail are not as flattering to your figure.

If you are short and thin - Skirts with a gentle flare, straight skirts and center pleats are becoming. Gathered skirts and wide contrasting belts make you appear shorter. Use care in selecting your fabric. Heavy fabrics can add an illusion of thickness to the figure.

If you are short and stout- Select your skirt to match your and . Select a skirt with a gentle flare and a fabric that is of medium weight not bulky. Avoid any construction lines which carry the eyes across the figure.

Check H & G Bulletin # 20 "How to Tailor a Woman's " for more tailor ­ ing information and instructions for making a tailor's ham which will be needed in making a skirt.

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