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[INGREDIENTS] by Karen Nachay

Travel the Globe One Ingredient at a Time

he next best thing to visiting a from Innova presented at the IFT17 becoming more adventurous with global locale is being able to food expo showed that from 2015 to their food choices, product develop- Tenjoy the flavors and foods of 2016, the percent growth for new ers and chefs are moving beyond that place’s cuisine from the comfort products with Korean flavors was typical fare (think egg rolls, burri- of your home. Chefs and product 46%, with Thai at 40%, Japanese at tos, and sauces simply labeled developers are drawing from the 32%, and Chinese at 19%. Whether “mild,” “medium,” and “hot”) to global pantry and experimenting with it’s Asian or another cuisine, con- offer products and dishes that , chili peppers, fruits, vegeta- sumers want authenticity. From 2011 reflect the regional nuances of bles, and more sourced from around to 2016, there was a 15% compound global cuisines. Asian and Mexican the world to create globally inspired annual growth rate for new food and packaged goods and foodservice beverage products with an “authen- fare. Ingredient innovators like tic” claim, according to data from The interest in authentic global cuisine continues to increase with consumers around Sensient Flavors are also exploring Innova. the world. dishes from various regions across Asia are favorites for many. world cuisines. The company in June In addition to the post-regional © gontabunta/iStock/Thinkstock released five savory snack concepts approach to food development, —Filipino Potato Chips, there is a hyper-specific approach, Vietnamese Pho Peanuts, Cuban says Nielsen. By this she means Popcorn, Nordic Sour Cream, taking things to a singular, specialty Lemon & Potato Chips, and North level such as foodservice opera- African Chickpeas—that cap- tions that focus on one or two main ture key flavors of these cuisines. dishes. Examples include poke bowl McCormick & Co.’s 2017 Flavor restaurants that are opening up in Forecast report highlights global many cities around the country and tastes with featured dishes such as Chick ‘n Rice, a counter-service congee, cured yolk, and shakshuka, restaurant that specializes in khao and ingredients like espelette pepper, man gai, a Thai version of chicken , and barberries. and rice. What’s great about estab- Calling this activity “post-regional,” lishments like these, says Nielsen, Kara Nielsen, sales and engagement is that they can introduce newcom- manager USA for Innova Market ers to a cuisine, and that may Insights, says that today’s chefs and eventually lead to a deeper under- consumers are excited about every- standing of it. thing when it comes to food and are Travel the world with Food willing to try new foods and flavors. Technology magazine as this “It’s a sign of maturity in this exciting month’s Ingredients column looks food culture that we have.” at how global cuisines and ingredi- The number of global food prod- ents are evolving and what is uct offerings in grocery stores and emerging, with insights provided supermarkets continues to grow. by chefs, ingredient developers, Since 2014, the number of new food marketers, and food trend global food and beverage launches experts. with what Innova calls an ethnic positioning has increased two-and- Emphasizing Regionality a-half times, says Nielsen. Asian As interest in global cuisines flavors are a big part of this; data increases, with some consumers

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Travel the Globe One Ingredient at a Time continued...

sauce, and miso are moving beyond details 10 top international hot sauces and Asian food and are being used to add includes some well-established ones like pops of savory and umami tastes to and sweet Thai chili sauce along soups, sauces, marinades, and more. with others, such as guilin sauce and Finally, Korean cuisine has helped to tomato achaar, that are sought after by generate interest in fermented foods and adventurous eaters. The other six sauces ingredients such as kimchi and gochu- on the list are oelek, , peri- jang. Bulgogi, marinated grilled beef, has peri, , chili sauce, and hot taken off in popularity thanks to the num- banana sauce. All the sauces promise to ber of Korean barbecue restaurants that add layers of flavors, be they sweet, have opened in many cities around the savory, umami, citrusy, fermented, or United States. Korean barbecue is even spicy, as well as varying levels of heat a flavor on its own; spotted byFood from mild to hot. Of the sauces on the list, Technology at this year’s National Schaefer points to sambal oelek, harissa, Confectioners Association Sweets & and peri-peri as the ones that have the Snacks Expo and hitting grocery store potential to break through to the main- shelves nationwide this fall are Potato stream like sriracha has done and to Chips with “smoky and roasty-sweet achaar and gochujang as those that may Miso, the fermented soybean paste that is a key ingredient in Japanese hoisin and garlic notes.” remain on the fringe only to be enjoyed cooking, adds funky, umami tastes to foods. In addition to being the As with Asian food, consumers are among certain consumers who seek out main ingredient in miso soup, miso can be used to add flavor to other learning more about the diverse range varieties of soup and dressings, both sweet and savory sauces, unusual ingredients. He says that sambal marinades, and even ice cream. © hungryworks/iStock/Thinkstock of ingredients and foods from regions oelek has a very approachable flavor pro- across Mexico. “Twenty years ago, we file, good heat, and nice sweet level and is looked at Mexican food as only ground found on the dining tables in many Asian cuisines are more popular than ever. beef tacos and a canned ,” says restaurants, where it is used as a condi- Throughout the regions in Asia and Schaefer. “Today, Mexican is no longer ment. “Americans love Asian flavor Mexico are specific ingredients and considered ethnic as much as comfort profiles, and this one is very comparable cooking methods that chefs and product food. We see a growing taste for more to sriracha in many aspects.” Harissa is developers are exploring to give con- authentic cuisine.” Certain ingredients popular in North Africa, so popular that sumers the authenticity they now want. like chili peppers characterize Mexican “There is nothing hotter globally than cuisine. “Americans are comfortable Asian cuisine right now,” says Dax with many different types of peppers,” Harissa is a spicy sauce used in . Schaefer, executive chef at Asenzya. says Schaefer. “We don’t want to read Various brands of harissa are available in stores, “Because of years of Americanized ‘hot pepper’ on the menu, we want to allowing consumers to make traditional North African dishes or add to other meat, fish, , or vegetable Chinese restaurants, Americans are know if it’s serrano, , habanero, recipes. © Quanthem/iStockThinkstock familiar with the main ingredients and or jalapeno.” is a signature sauce ready for more authentic dishes. We love in Mexican cuisine. There’s no set rec- the culinary focus that Asia has on bal- ipe for a mole; the recipes can differ not ancing flavor profiles such as sweet, only region to region but town to town, savory, and spicy.” and can contain any combination of Four Asian cusines are currently on ingredients such as chilis, spices, , Schaefer’s radar. All four are bringing onion, garlic, nuts, seeds, and dried interesting elements into the mix. From fruit. These complex sauces are becom- As with Asian food, consumers are learning more about the diverse range of ingredients and foods from regions across Mexico.

Thai cuisine, keep an eye out for more ing more popular, says Schaefer. curries, coconut, , and Thai “Americans are branching out further . Soups, crepes, and banh mi sand- than just and look to the wiches are Vietnamese dishes finding beautiful line of authentic Mexican their way onto restaurant menus and in sauces.” cookbooks and food magazines while Speaking of sauces, one of the latest Japanese ingredients such as mirin, soy Trending Flavors reports from Asenzya pg 56 09.17 • www.ift.org [INGREDIENTS]

Travel the Globe One Ingredient at a Time continued... Photo courtesy of SupHerb Farms SupHerb of courtesy Photo

New Global Blends Boost Flavor

ulinary pastes and blends from SupHerb Farms span five continents and contain ingredients from and Ccapture the flavors of key cuisines from around the world. More than three dozen (41 to be exact) make up the line; they include options like Creole, , North African Green Harissa, Thai Red Curry, Jamaican Seasoning, Indian Masala, Roasted Red Pepper Spread, and . The company in August added four new items to the line. Aji Paste blends cilantro, mild onion, and aji pepper for a sweet and slightly tangy paste, while the Tabbouleh Starter is an aromatic blend of herbs, tomatoes, green onions, and garlic. The other two new culinary pastes are , a Moroccan sauce that combines cilantro, , and garlic for mild tanginess and a slight kick of heat, and S’chug, a Middle Eastern made from jalapenos, garlic, and herbs. All the SupHerb Farms Fusion Pastes and Blends have multiple uses in grain dishes, meat and seafood applications, , mari- nades, soups, stews, and rubs. Formulators of sauces, dressings, dips, and spreads can create some creative and distinctive products with the pastes and rubs. Try using Cilantro Paste in dressing, Indonesian Style Chili Paste in , or Mexican Ancho Chile with Lime Paste in sour cream or yogurt. Use Guacamole Starter Paste to formulate a traditional guacamole, or add unexpected flavors by blendingSun- Dried Tomato Chipotle Paste or Citrus Garlic Herb Paste into a traditional guacamole recipe. Creole Paste gives additional layers of flavor and heat while Moroccan Harissa and North African Green Harissa take peanut butter to spicy new flavor levels.

pg 58 09.17 • www.ift.org Schaefer says it is often referred to as wraps. It has some level of heat and intimidating, but change its name to the “African ketchup.” This sauce’s fermented, “funky” flavors. “The flavor Korean barbecue and the addition of flavor profile is complex, with notes of is amazing and complex; however, it global flavors doesn’t feel as far out garlic, citrus, herbs, and brown spice. has a difficult name for most there. All of a sudden, a Korean barbe- Peri-peri is another sauce that Americans to remember. Also, it is cue pot roast is a safe customer Schaefer believes can become a main- more of an ingredient than a condi- exploration, something they can under- stream since it has strong ment, so you have to commit your stand, will try, and enjoy.” citrus notes and works quite well as a whole meal versus a bite or two to marinade for pork and chicken. As for try it.” New Takes on Tacos those on the fringe, tomato achaar and So, what’s a product developer to Once a staple in Tex-Mex cuisine, the gochujang have a little way to go do to formulate products that both play taco has gone gourmet. Chefs like Rick before being widely accepted. Tomato up the global food trends while appeal- Bayless are serving up authentic achaar, a thick sauce with the flavors ing to a wide swath of consumers, tacos with fillings like pork cecina, of roasted tomato, hot chili peppers, especially when, as Schaefer notes, chorizo, and beef tasajo topped with ginger, and brown spice notes, has its many consumers say they want to try grilled chiles and onions, and the team origins in India and Nepal. “Indian food new foods but often balk when given members at San Francisco’s still struggles to gain a foothold in something out of their comfort zone? Tacolicious restaurant are preparing American society. While there are His approach is to add a slight global tacos like Baja-style Pacific cod, sum- amazing flavor profiles, it is still not twist to something that appeals to mer squash, corn, and poblano rajas, hitting the mark like we thought it many consumers—formulating a pot guajillo-braised beef, and mushroom would a few years back,” says roast with the flavors of Korean carnitas. The taco concept itself has Schaefer. Gochujang comes to us by bulgogi, for example. “Many consum- even become a format to introduce way of South Korea, where it is often ers look at pot roast as a comfort food flavors and ingredients from other used in kimchi, bibimbap, and lettuce they understand. Bulgogi sounds cuisines. The tacos at Roy Choi’s Kogi

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Travel the Globe One Ingredient at a Time continued...

short rib (Korean barbecue short rib, taste experience. We wanted to mini- , and chili soy slaw), tofu mize the ingredient statement while (tofu marinated in chiles, garlic, and maximizing taste and nutrition. Kerry’s citrus, grilled, and then topped with plant-based protein shreds have only salsa verde), and pork (pork belly, butt, seven ingredients and provide an and shoulder marinated in sweet and excellent source of protein and fiber. spicy gochujang). The bulgogi sauce was formulated Ingredient manufacturer Kerry using insights from our colleagues in introduced at IFT 17 its own global Asia, allowing us to deliver on an take on the taco with mini taco prod- authentic taste.” uct concepts made with the Some emerging trends related to company’s plant-based protein shreds global cuisines and ingredients and bulgogi sauce. “The inspiration for include the rise in use of certain ingre- this concept included a growing inter- dients, including fermented products est in plant-based diets, the familiarity such as gochujang and kombucha, Tacos are a popular street food. New takes on tacos include ones made with of a taco, and that ‘spicy’ flavors, , and Middle Eastern and plant-based protein ingredients and flavorful sauces. Photo courtesy of Kerry including Korean bulgogi sauce, were North African spice blends such as trending,” says Cian Leahy, Kerry’s za’atar and dukka, and the popularity director of savory applications. A glob- of Southeast Asian, Middle Eastern, BBQ food truck are one of the most ally inspired product concept like this and North African cuisines, says well-known examples of this taco one also shows how clean label or Leahy. He’s also noticed more con- combination. The Southern healthful ingredients fit into product sumers shifting to a flexitarian or California–based chef combines the formulation efforts. “The taco concept plant-based diet to meet their daily flavors of Korean cuisine in tacos like provided an authentic and transparent protein needs. Think about this last »»

pg 60 09.17 • www.ift.org World Cuisines Influence Casual Dining

round the world, casual dining of an immigrant from Southern Méndez served a tamale made is evolving, giving chefs a India who calls the American with chepil, a key herb used in Anew focus and consumers South home, through the delicious Oaxacan cooking; thin masa cakes more food and dining choices than ingredients and foods from both called memelas topped with black ever before. The Culinary Institute regions. Just don’t call her food mole, both of which are traditional of America’s 19th Annual Worlds fusion. “My food is an evolution of Oaxacan fare; and a take on cevi- of Flavor conference held in April who I am as a person and these che made with corn and gathered chefs, food writers, and amazing places that I’ve been for- chapulines (grasshoppers), a popu- restaurateurs to share their tunate enough to call home.” Her lar snack food in parts of Mexico, insights on the state of casual din- food celebrates the flavors of both particularly Oaxaca. ing around the world. homes. Case in point: her recipe • At the end of the Vietnam The rapidly changing landscape for fried chicken. She marinades War, many Vietnamese fled to of casual dining is being shaped by chicken in a herbaceous brine of Louisiana, mainly near New the public’s embrace of world cui- ginger, garlic, serrano chilis, mint, Orleans, bringing with them their sine from Asia to the cilantro, , and buttermilk, fries culinary traditions. Born and raised Mediterranean to Latin America, it, and finishes it with coconut oil in New Orleans, Michael Gulotta said Anne McBride, director of drizzle and a sprinkle of chili pow- celebrates the flavorful ingredients culinary programs and and foods of both New editorial strategic initia- Orleans and Vietnamese tives at the Culinary cuisine at his restaurant, Institute of America. She MoPho. During a break- also mentioned that out seminar, he casual dining features a commented on the simi- chef-driven approach with larities between a focus on flavor and on Southeast Asian and creativity. K. F. Seetoh, Southeast Louisiana founder of Makansutra, cooking, one of which is operator of food courts in dishes made with both Singapore and Manila, shellfish and pork. His and the keynote pre- and coconut senter, spoke about the braised clam dish fea- chef-driven approach to tured clams bathed in a casual dining by saying Pepper jelly and coconut braised clam dish. Photo courtesy of Kristen Loken/CIA broth made with aromat- that he admires the chefs ics, lemongrass, coconut who return to their roots and der. Where her mother would milk, and pepper jelly garnished defend their own culinary heritage. serve the chicken over rice , with shaved lardo. Throughout the conference, Gomez serves hers over a carda- • J.J. Johnson, executive chef attendees were reminded of the mom low country waffle with a at Minton, wants people to dis- importance that culinary heritage spiced maple . cover rice for what it truly is—not and global influences have on the • Alam Méndez is making tradi- the parboiled grain served as a dining experience. Many of the tional Oaxacan cuisine—with a side dish afterthought, but rather chefs spoke about how they twist—accessible to all. Like many as a food with a rich history and an learned to embrace their culinary chefs, Méndez’s culinary career important role in cuisines and roots or how their travels around took him to various places around economies around the world. He’s the world influenced their the world, but he said that the made it his mission to educate approaches to recipe development more he learned outside of people about the origins of heir- and cooking, allowing them to use Mexico, the more he wanted to loom rice grains such as the techniques that they learned to return and cook the food of his glaberrima, a centuries-old rice give new twists to food. Here are Oaxacan heritage, but with a more originating in West Africa, and some key highlights. modern styling. At the food hall Chinese black tribute rice, which • Asha Gomez has found a suc- held each day of the event where originally was reserved only for the cessful way to tell her story, that chefs prepared tasting portions, emperors in ancient China.

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Travel the Globe One Ingredient at a Time continued...

point and it make sense; many dishes in insights and consumer trends that these popular global cuisines feature may be in their inception in the U.S., meatless protein options like tofu, nuts, but ubiquitous in another region,” and beans. says Leahy. “We can call on the Several factors play into consum- expertise of our colleagues in these ers’ preferences for global cuisines regions so they can educate and and ingredients and the ways in which provide samples of these foods to product developers formulate globally help us in development so we can inspired food and beverage products. ultimately deliver [to] our customer “Today’s consumer is demanding an authentic and consumer-accepted The cucamelon is a fruit that is native to Mexico and products that are authentic and trans- final product.” Central America. One food marketing expert says its parent,” says Leahy. “The experience flavor, which is citrusy and slightly sour, is one to watch and has the potential to be a flavor trend. of eating is not just eating any longer. Emerging Global Flavors © sarahdoow/iStock/Thinkstock Consumers expect ‘food with a story’ Finally, insights into flavors are on the on specific, global flavors, and ingredi- horizon from a leading flavorings man- ents. Delivering on an authentic taste ufacturer. Some of the flavors on miso, burnt miso caramel flavor is a experience is a combination of great Sensient Flavors’ 2017 Trends to Taste global twist on salted caramel. taste, cultural accuracy, and transpar- list that have global reach are damiana, Another notable flavor on the list is ent sourcing and is also one of the burnt miso caramel, and cucamelon. damiana, an herb that originated in greatest challenges for product devel- First up is a flavor with an East meets Central America with a mellow cham- opers.” To deliver on authenticity, West characteristic to it—burnt miso omile fragrance and both a smooth buttery taste and a crisp taste of fresh Several factors play into consumers’ preferences for global cuisines green figs. “This ingredient, known for and ingredients and the ways in which product developers its influential properties in matters of the heart, was central to love spells formulate globally inspired food and beverage products. throughout history and is actually still on the market in formats like a grati- Leahy says that it’s important to under- caramel. Caramel is a favorite nostal- tude tea and love elixir kombucha,” stand what authenticity means to the gic ingredient, and miso, a fermented says Lauren Williams, director of mar- target consumer in terms of recipe, soybean paste, is an important compo- keting, global sweet & beverage ingredients, cooking process, and pre- nent in Japanese cuisine. Combining flavors, at Sensient Flavors. When sentation of food. “At Kerry, our global the sweet, brown tastes of caramel translating this idea for product devel- reach provides us access to market with the dark soy and umami tastes of opers, she suggests that they not

Key Vegetables, Fruits for International Flair

t’s not uncommon anymore to find fruits and vegetables ingredients to create both sweet and savory flavor profiles. from around the world in grocery stores and avail- Add flavor twists to food and beverage products by com- Iable to chefs and product developers thanks to trade bining fruits and vegetables with other global ingredients. and improvements in logistics and agricultural practices. “Pushing the boundaries of taste and flavor is becoming Passion fruit, guava, prickly pear, melon, and ginger are hits more important, especially now that consumers are becom- so far in 2017, says Dawn Merrill, technical services man- ing more adventurous with flavors and foods,” says Merrill. ager at Kerr Concentrates, who adds that culinary trends “For example, to create hot/cold sensations, we’re taking point to jicama becoming more popular, too. “Jicama, a watermelon and blending this sweet and refreshingly cool tuber originating in South America and Mexico, often puree with spicy habanero pepper for a subtle kick reminis- described as a cross between an apple and a potato, is pop- cent of Mexican cuisine—think spicy agua fresca. For those ular as a snack, on top of salads or salsa, and can even be a consumers who dream of escaping to Central America, substitute for water chestnuts. Here at Kerr Concentrates, we have passion fruit blends. Passion fruit pairs remark- we’ve produced Jicama Juice Concentrate, which is ably well with some of the more mainstream berries like inherently sweet, but low in and calories, mak- strawberry, raspberry, and even stone fruits like peach. ing it the perfect sugar substitute in many applications.” We’re working with savory blends and adding spices to our Use it as a stand-alone ingredient or blend it with other fruit and vegetable lineup to entice global customers.”

pg 62 09.17 • www.ift.org ignore the connection between food tends to follow foodservice trends, we full of ingredients like honey, figs, and mood. “Our mood influences the can expect a rise of Philippine cuisine , and fresh herbs, which foods that we choose and vice versa. on our shelves. The Philippines have already have fans in the states. Connect with consumers on an emo- consistently been in the top four “Translation at an appropriate level of tional level. Share with them the sources of foreign-born immigrants to ‘exotic’ to meet consumers where they ‘mood’ of your product or the desired the United States since the 1990s, and are and a tasty execution is all that it effect it will have for them (relaxation, we have definitely seen restaurants needs to become a trend.” FT energy, etc.). I am not sure damiana is popping up across the country offering scientifically proven effective in mak- everything from Filipino fast food, like Next month’s Ingredients section will ing people fall in love, but sometimes Jolibee, to haute cuisine.” As far as discuss ingredients and ingre- the placebo effect is all that we are Middle Eastern and North African cui- dients used to manufacture cheese really looking for.” sines are concerned, Williams says products. The cucamelon is, as Williams puts that she expects them to follow a simi- it, “a funny one.” “This cute, little vine lar evolutionary pattern as Asian fruit looks like a laboratory creation but cuisine. “As most people will recall, in Karen Nachay, has actually been around since the the states we used to see all Asian Senior Associate Editor • [email protected] Aztecs.” It resembles a tiny water- cuisines lumped together into a single melon and has a cucumber aroma and amalgamation of ‘Asian food’, but they taste with a sour lime finish. actually have very distinct styles and Williams also offers up her ingredients like sushi, bibimbap, and www.ift.org thoughts on trending global cuisines. pho. Similarly, rising interest, access, Members Only: Read more about global Filipino cuisine is one, as is Middle and exposure to Middle Eastern cui- cuisines and ingredients at ift.org. Type Eastern/North African cuisine. “In an sine will open up opportunities for the keywords into the search box at the upper right side of the home page. industry where commercialized food distinction.” Kurdish food, she says, is

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