EASY ESCAPES

florida Martha’s vineyard provence hawaii quebec city smoky mountains washington belize yosemite arizona the bahamas mexico A façade in 1 travelandleisure.com 2011 the town of family travel Menemsha The south shore of Martha’s Vineyard

A view of the beach

Edgartown’s lighthouse

Boat fenders hanging on a Seabrook cottage

Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts Seabrook, Washington The quintessential New England your head at the Harbor View Hotel & Set high on a bluff above a vast before working up an appetite by island draws history buffs and Resort (131 N. Water St., Edgartown; sandy beach, the carefully planned hiking the half-mile Elk Creek Beach lighthouse lovers of all ages. Stroll 508/627-7000; harbor-view.com; waterfront enclave of Seabrook— Promenade. The oyster-shell-strewn the beyond-quaint brick sidewalks doubles from $99), a Colonial grande about 2½ hours west of Seattle—is path takes you to a gazebo lookout of Edgartown, build sand castles on dame with wraparound porches and a modern-day Pleasantville, its and down 45 steps to the beach. the beaches of Chappaquiddick, or a Boston-meets-the-beach air. The streets lined with pastel and wood- Return to town for a bowl of seafood learn how to spin yarn or make a quill hotel’s kids’ program includes treasure shingled cottages and wide swaths of chowder, hearty with pancetta and pen—complete with berry ink—at hunts and arts and crafts. T+L Tip The green. Rent a house from Seabrook cockles, at Mill 109 Pub (360/276- the Native Earth Teaching Farm (94 Flying Horses Carousel (Oak Bluffs Cottage Rentals (4275 State Rte. 4884; dinner for four $75), Seabrook’s North Rd., Chilmark; 508/645-3304; Ave.; 508/693-9481), in Oak Bluffs, a 109, Pacific Beach; 360/276-0265; only restaurant. T+L Tip Drive the 30 nativeearthteachingfarm.org; $25 per 15-minute drive from Edgartown, was seabrookcottagerentals.com; two- minutes to Olympic National Park person per class). For an oceanside moved here from New York’s Coney bedroom cottages from $205, (360/565-3130; nps.gov/olym) to dinner, feast on local lobster with white Island. The hand-carved equines two-night minimum, four nights trek through coastal rain forest, past corn bread purée and pea shoots feature genuine horsehair manes and in summer) and tool around on a the 1,000-foot-thick Blue Glacier, and at the family-friendly Lure Grill (25 tails; each eye contains a miniature communal cruiser bike. Spend your along rocky Pacific beaches. Dunes Rd., Edgartown; 508/627-3663; porcelain animal. afternoons teaching the little ones dinner for four $135) and then rest how to fly a kite in the salty breeze Blackberry Farm 2 travelandleisure.com 2011 family travel A room at Black- The hotel’s berry Farm dining room

Canvas tent cabins at Curry Village

Wildlife by the At the children’s Merced River cooking course

Yosemite National Park, California Walland, Tennessee Sky-high sequoias and surging the terrace, sipping Mammoth Brewing Live the agricultural life while indulging three-day cooking course ($600 for a waterfalls—not to mention Half Dome, Co.’s Ahwahnee Amber Ale and gazing every whim at Blackberry Farm three-day session): wooden baskets in the granite monolith immortalized by at the teetering walls of Glacier Point. (865/380-2260; blackberryfarm.com; hand, they’ll gather ingredients from photographer Ansel Adams—draw their Bunk down in a wood-floored canvas from $795 per night for two adults, the garden to make meals of their fair share of tour buses here. Dodge tent cabin at the rustic, dogwood- including meals; children $250 per own—perhaps blackberry ice cubes, the masses by strolling the Valley Floor fringed Curry Village (yosemitepark. night, including meals and kids’ camp), strawberry soup, and BLT’s in pita Loop Trail, which runs past Yosemite com; four-person tents from $120). a 9,200-acre retreat in the foothills pockets. The whole family can explore Falls and the base of El Capitán. Rent a Staircase Falls—at its majestic best from of the Smokies in eastern Tennessee. the wooded terrain on horseback or raft for a float down theM erced River March through May—is just across the Guests luxuriate in rooms filled with from a horse-drawn carriage, or take in (yosemitepark.com; $26 per adult, way. T+L Tip Head to Tioga Toomey’s Georgian furniture and are pampered the surrounding landscape on a guided $18 per child 12 and under), then head Whoa Nellie Deli at the Tioga Gas with clay wraps at the resort’s canoe tour along the lake. T+L Tip Fish to the iconic 1927 Ahwahnee hotel Mart (Hwy. 120, just off 395, Lee Vining; Farmhouse Spa. An heirloom garden for rainbow and brown trout on the ( 1 Ahwahnee Rd.; 209/372-1489; dinner 760/647-1088; dinner for four $40) for supplies jewel-like herbs and produce, property’s Hesse Creek, or head to the for four $56) for dinner at the bar. its foodie-caliber menu—fish tacos with which the New American restaurant streams of Great Smoky Mountains After wolfing down cheeseburgers and ginger coleslaw; apricot-glazed pork puts to full use in poached trout National Park (865/436-1200; nps.gov/ chicken fingers, the kids can frolic on tenderloin—and free bluegrass concerts with spring onions, creasy greens, grsm), only a few miles away. the great lawn while parents watch from on a lawn overlooking Mono Lake. and radishes. Sign the kids up for a Saguaro cactus 3 travelandleisure.com 2011 at Tanque Verde family travel

A dining terrace at the ranch

Joanie’s Blue Crab Café

Conch shells in Key West

Cheeca Lodge

Florida Everglades Tucson, Arizona Orchid thieves and mythical swamp Clyde Butcher’s Big Cypress Gallery A vacation spot that caters to at the spa. But simply lazing around creatures are just a few of the larger- (239/695-2428; clydebutcher.com) at both antsy kids and their comfort- on the porch to catch the Sonoran than-life characters that populate mile marker 54.5 in Ochopee. After seeking grandparents sounds like a sunset gets high marks, too. On this subtropical wilderness. Begin marveling at his large-scale black-and- tall order, but Tanque Verde Ranch Wednesday and Saturday nights, in Everglades City, where a stay at white images of the Everglades, have (14301 E. Speedway; 866/494-3833; gather the entire family—jeans and the Ivey House Bed & Breakfast lunch at ornament-crammed Joanie’s tanqueverderanch.com; from $245 per Western shirts are a plus—to feast (107 Camellia St.; 877/567-0679 Blue Crab Café (39395 Tamiami Trail, person, all-inclusive) easily fills the on prime rib and dance to live music or 239/695-3299; iveyhouse.com; Ochopee; 239/695-2682; lunch for bill. A cluster of 76 adobe casitas on at the ranch’s Cottonwood Grove doubles from $157) may include four $40). T+L Tip Extend your trip 640 acres in the Sonoran foothills, the barbecue. T+L Tip In the summer a twilight kayak expedition—look by heading about three hours south to sprawling resort offers an impressive Tanque Verde hosts all-inclusive out for alligator eyes glowing a the Florida Keys, stopping at wildlife list of attractions: horseback riding, overnight camp sessions for a dozen sinister red in the dark. Then follow lookouts and fish shacks along the mountain biking, and guided nature children ages nine to 14. During the the Tamiami Trail, or U.S. Highway way. Stay at the oceanfront Cheeca treks through the desert. Children’s 10-day kiddie getaway they’ll hike, 41, through a forest that’s home to Lodge & Spa (81801 Overseas Hwy., programs (trail riding; tennis lessons; bike, swim, do team penning, and elusive rare orchids (and perhaps Islamorada; 800/327-2888; cheeca. nature classes) keep little ones busy learn how to care for horses ($1,850 even a bog monster or two). Worth com; doubles from $399), which has a while the older set rejuvenates with per child, all-inclusive). a stop: landscape photographer stellar snorkeling program. an organic-coffee-and-salt exfoliation A view of Oahu’s 4 travelandleisure.com 2011 North Shore family travel

Ke Iki Beach Bungalows Caves Branch Jungle Lodge

Caye Caulker

Caye Caulker

Sunset Beach, Oahu, Hawaii Belize As the North Shore’s surfing season units outfitted with kitchens, bar­ Belize is a no-brainer for budget- doubles from $66) serves up an even quiets down in the summer, Sunset becue areas, picnic tables, and conscious families looking for DIY more unusual stay: after a night safari Beach becomes a tropical Mayberry: outdoor showers. Ted’s Bakery adventure. Sixty miles from Belize (the kids can pet a jaguar), spend the family-friendly, resolutely idle, and (59-024 Kamehameha Hwy., Haleiwa; City, in the western Cayo District, night in cabins on stilts overlooking steadfastly democratic. Aquamarine 808/638-8207; lunch for four $40) Ian Anderson’s Caves Branch a pond that attracts egrets and waters gently lap two miles of palm- provides fuel for tourists and surfers Adventure Co. & Jungle Lodge (Mile crocodiles. T+L Tip Twenty miles fringed white sand; sheltered coves alike with its generously portioned 41.5, Hummingbird Hwy., Belmopan; offshore—accessible by speedboat lure snorkelers; and tide pools yield dishes—garlic shrimp, mahimahi 011-501/673-3454; cavesbranch.com; from the busy marine terminal—is copious puka shells to delighted sandwiches, bento-box lunches, and cabanas from $118 a night, three- Caye Caulker, a narrow mangrove beachcombers. Ke Iki Beach sinfully rich chocolate haupia pies. night minimum) is a Survivor-style island with sandy streets and just a Bungalows (59-579 Ke Iki Rd., Haleiwa; T+L Tip Sign your teens up for surf rain-forest retreat—tree houses and handful of cars. Book a simple cabana 866/638-8229 or 808/638-8229; lessons at the Hans Hedemann thatched-roof cabanas; solar lanterns; at De Real Macaw Guest House keikibeach.com; doubles from $135), a Surf School (57-091 Kamehameha open-air showers—with a full menu (Avda. Hicaco, Caye Caulker; 011- 10-minute drive from the restaurants, Hwy., Kahuku; 808/447-6755; hhsurf. of activities, from rappelling to cave 501/226-0459; derealmacaw.biz; surf shacks, clothing boutiques, and com; $75 per person for a group tubing. Back in the city, the Belize cabanas from $41), and ask the owner art galleries along the Kamehameha lesson); within two hours they might Zoo (Mile 29, Western Hwy., Belize to set up a snorkeling tour of the reef. Highway, has 11 small but charming be riding those waves themselves. City; 011-501/220-8004; belizezoo.org; 5 travelandleisure.com 2011 family travel

Artisanal bread for sale in Quebec City

The setting for an alfresco meal

Skating at Place d’Youville Aix’s ­Fountain of the Four Pears at the ­Dolphins farmers’ market

Aix-en-Provence, France Quebec City, Canada There’s no finer emblem for this to La Pauline (Les Pinchinats, 280 More manageable than Montreal, with duck braised in maple syrup or wild former provincial capital than the Chemin de la Fontaine des Tuiles; a more expansive historic district, this caribou with a blueberry wine sauce. downtown farmers’ market, which 33-4/42-17-02-60; lapauline.fr; doubles is one of the most picturesque cities For lunch, fill your bags with boar sets up on Place Richelme from from $207), an intimate five-room in North America. Book a room with sausage and wedges of locally made 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. daily. Like Aix itself, B&B secreted away on 20 acres of antique furnishings and a view of the Cumulus cheese at the very old-world it’s not particularly big, nor overly gardens, fountains, and pools. Come St. Lawrence River at the Fairmont grocery J.A. Moisan (699 Rue St.- fancy, but it is full of the hustle and nightfall, dine on lamb shoulder Le Château Frontenac (1 Rue des Jean; 418/522-0685; jamoisan.com), flow of commerce and, of course, confit and risotto aux fruits de mer Carrieres; 800/441-1414; fairmont. and have a picnic in one of the many the ripest, most beautiful produce— underneath the trees at Chez Thomé com; doubles from $236), an imposing parks along the river. T+L Tip If it’s peaches, strawberries, tomatoes—as (74 Ave. Louis Destrem, Le Tholonet; turreted castle on a bluff over the chilly outside, hit the Méga well as fresh baguettes, cheeses, 33-4/42-66-90-43; chezthome.fr; river that will fulfill anyone’s fairy- Parc des Galeries de la Capitale and sausages, the makings of a dinner for four $141). T+L Tip Satisfy tale fantasies. At dinnertime, head (5401 Blvd. des Galeries; 418/627- colorful picnic. At the heart of town the kids’ sweet tooths with a trip to Aux Anciens Canadiens (34 Rue 5800; mega-parc.com), an indoor is the Cours Mirabeau, where two tall to Pâtisserie Béchard (12 Cours St.-Louis; 418/692-1627; dinner for amusement park complete with a rows of plane trees and a series of Mirabeau; 33-4/42-26-06-78; dessert four $150), where waitstaff dressed roller coaster, Ferris wheel, merry-go- fountains and cafés conspire to make for four $34) for biscotins—pastry- in early-19th-century garb serve up round, and Olympic-size skating rink. you slow down and exhale. Check in wrapped hazelnuts. home-style Québécois dishes such as 6 travelandleisure.com 2011 The adult pool at family travel Azul Beach Hotel A junior snorkeler at Azul

A Deluxe Club room at Green Turtle Club Resort & Marina

Green Turtle Cay The hotel’s lobby

Abaco Islands, Bahamas Puerto Morelos, Mexico A one-hour flight fromM iami or families. Book a boating adventure with Newbie parents will love the ease and Puerto Morelos itself is an old fishing Fort Lauderdale lands you right in Lincoln Jones (242/365-4223; $105 per convenience of Azul Beach Hotel by village with white-sand beaches and a this group of islands with soft sand, adult, $55 per child 12 and under) and Karisma (866/527-4762; karismahotels. lighthouse that leans over at a jaunty calm seas, and stellar bonefishing. enjoy a day of snorkeling, fishing, and com; from $288 per adult, all-inclusive; angle. If you’re inspired to venture out, They’re well-known among sailors and then partying on the deserted Manjack kids under three free, ages three–13 enjoy fresh fish and grilled veggies yachting types—and almost no one Cay beach as Jones cooks your catch. $144 per day), located on a prime at the waterside Merkadito del Mar else. From the Treasure Cay airport, If your fishing skills aren’t so reliable, swath of the Caribbean just 20 minutes (52-998/871-0774; dinner for four take a water taxi to the Green Turtle catch a ride to Pete’s Pub & Gallery from Cancún airport. Room service is $62) before visiting the local crafts Club Resort & Marina (800/370-4468; (Little Harbour; 242/577-5487; dinner round-the-clock, and cribs, changing market to buy Mayan pottery for the greenturtleclub.com; doubles from for four $60), on Abaco Island, for tables, strollers, toys, and high-quality grandparents back home. T+L Tip The $169). Once you’re there, lunch on grilled grouper with mango and ginger- baby food are all available on request. Croco Cun Zoo (Km 31, Crta. Cancún- conch burgers and Bahamian mac-and- garlic yellowfin tuna.T+L Tip Green There’s also a kids’ club for those aged Tulum; 52-998/850-3719; crococunzoo. cheese; rent snorkel gear from the dive Turtle Cay’s Junkanoo festival, an all- four to 12, along with morning yoga com; $23 for adults, $14 for children, shop; and spend your days tooling from day street parade of ornate costumes, and cooking classes for the whole free admission for children five or beach to near-empty beach. The hotel conch-shell horns, and cowbells, and family. Best of all: free babysitting younger) offers guided tours and has 31 rooms, including several multi- all manner of rhythmic ruckus, is held twice a week during happy hour, up-close interactions with macaws, bedroom units that are perfect for every New Year’s Day. drinks for the grown-ups included. snakes, deer, and crocodiles. 7 travelandleisure.com 2011 family travel Young surfers at Sunset Beach, Oahu

TRAVEL + LEISURE family

Editorial Director nancy novogrod Executive Editor Jennifer Barr Special Projects Editor irene edwards Contributing Editors Peter j. frank, peter jon Lindberg Contributing Designers elsa mehary, gary stewart Photo Editor beth Garrabrant Assistant Editor Kathryn o’shea-Evans Reporter DORkys ramos

PHOTOGRAPHERS Brown W. Cannon (2, 6) Francois Dischinger (5) Blasius Erlinger (3) Beth Garrabrant (1) Max Kim-Bee (5) Anne Menke (cover) David Nicolas (2) Coliena Rentmeester (4, 7) Buff Strickland (2, 4)

On the cover: Sayulita, Mexico Photographed by Anne Menke romantic getaways

marrakesh savannah napa valley bali barbados brazil the cotswolds venice bora-bora new zealand the bahamas mexico Bottega 1 travelandleisure.com 2011 romantic getaways A genteel Savannah street

The restaurant at the Mansion on Forsyth Park

Ricotta gnocchi at Bottega

Near Round Pond Estate

savannah, georgia napa valley, california An all-American classic feast for the senses

With its garden-filled squares ringed shrimp, sausages, potatoes, and A pitch-perfect mix of wineries, Napa; 707/252-8115; dinner for two by antebellum town houses, Savannah corn—served on newsprint-covered restaurants, and sybaritic hotels $100), a wood-beamed bistro on the is a model of Southern grace and tables. Browse for jewelry and makes this the ultimate wine-lovers’ Napa River, and Round Pond Estate romance. To get a taste of that handbags by up-and-coming artists escape. Book dinner at Bottega (6525 (875 Rutherford Rd., Rutherford; charm, stay at the 126-room Mansion at ShopSCAD (340 Bull St.; 912/525- Washington St.; 707/945-1050; dinner 888/302-2575), known for its robust on Forsyth Park (700 Drayton St.; 5180; shopscadonline.com), the for two $80), in the tiny foodie town Cabernets. Check in to the light-filled 888/711-5114; mansiononforsythpark. Savannah College of Art & Design’s of Yountville; the Italian-inflected Auberge du Soleil (180 Rutherford com; doubles from $199), which boutique, and don’t miss the Telfair menu includes dishes such as pork Hill Rd., Rutherford; 800/348-5406; includes an exquisitely restored 1888 Museums’ Jepson Center (207 W. loin with honey-sage roasted apples. aubergedusoleil.com; doubles from building. Savannah has dozens of York St.; 912/790-8800; telfair.org), a A 30-minute drive north, in Angwin, $750), where the rooms have large laid-back restaurants, and one of the contemporary art space designed by the two-year-old Cade Estate Winery stone fireplaces and private hot best remains Desposito’s (187 Old acclaimed architect Moshe Safdie. (360 Howell Mountain Rd. S.; 707/965- tubs. T+L Tip Let Beautiful Places Tybee Rd.; 912/897-9963; dinner for T+L Tip Take a tour of the city’s 2746) offers tastings in a sleek, solar- (800/495-9961; beautiful-places. two $40), where two can make a meal historic houses with the Savannah powered space. The area’s classic com) coordinate a private picnic and from one order of steamed oysters Walks (912/238-9255; savannahwalks. restaurants and wineries are still a other insider experiences with local and a “Low Country basket”—boiled com; tours from $16). draw, including Angèle (540 Main St., sommeliers. Polo remains 2 travelandleisure.com 2011 a Barbados romantic getaways pastime The island’s towering palms

Alila Villas Uluwatu

Byde Mill House Traditional Indonesian food at Amandari

bali, indonesia barbados nature meets nurture A colonial jewel

First there’s the spectacular beauty: $700), where a roster of “journeys” Little in Barbados can be separated $10, you might see anything from an wide golden beaches; gilded temples; offers immersive experiences, such from the romance of the island’s Oliver Messel–designed villa to the terraced rice paddies unfolding along as learning how to play the gamelan. British heritage. At Scarlet (Paynes Caribbean-Georgian Byde Mill House, a jade-green mountainsides. Then there And Amandari (Kedewatan, Ubud; Bay, St. James; 246/432-3663; dinner study in coral stone. At night, rest your are Bali’s resorts, tailor-made for 800/477-9180; amanresorts.com; for two $110), a sharp little restaurant head at the wallet-friendly Sea-U Guest immersing oneself in island traditions. doubles from $850) has some of serving Welsh rarebit (with Bajan hot House (Tent Bay, St. Joseph; 246/433- At the St. Regis Bali Resort (Kawasan the best cultural programs of any sauce) and sticky toffee pudding, 9450; seaubarbados.com; doubles from Pariwisata, Nusa Dua; 877/787-3447; resort—partly because it’s been here the bathrooms are decorated with $159), on the windswept east coast stregis.com; doubles from $625), long enough to cultivate lasting layouts from 1960’s-era British Vogue, near Bathsheba. T+L Tip Plan a visit villas open onto private pools, a blue- relationships with locals. with Gloria Guinness adrift in a sea to Farley Hill National Park (St. Peter; tinged lagoon, and Nusa Dua’s white- T+L Tip Make a detour to the Bukit of voile. To survey the island’s rich barbados.org), which overlooks the sand beach. For a slate of edifying Peninsula, at the southern tip of the architecture, book a tour with the Atlantic. Acres of mahogany trees cultural activities, head to Alila Villas island, for phenomenal views from Barbados National Trust (246/426- surround the polo fields and the ruins Uluwatu (Jalan Belimbing Sari, Banjar Pura Luhur Uluwatu, one of Bali’s most 2421; funbarbados.com; mid-January of a 19th-century estate that served Tambiyak, Desa Pecatu; 62-361/848- sacred temples, which commands a through March), which hosts the as a backdrop for the 1957 film Island 2166; alilahotels.com; doubles from towering cliff above the surf. weekly fund-raiser Open Houses; for in the Sun. Uxuá Casa 3 travelandleisure.com 2011 Hotel romantic getaways

A shop in the Quadrado

At Merriscourt Arts Centre

Praia dos Coquieridos

Barnsley House’s traditional gardens

The bar at Barnsley House

trancoso, brazil the cotswolds easy-breezy tropical escape british country idyll

Every night, paper lanterns are lit and of Trancoso’s original hippie pioneers, In the past decade and a half, this small creative businesses—including a the echoes of bossa nova fill the sultry at Cerâmica Calazans (55-73/3668- impossibly quaint region has seen woodworking shop, recording studio, air in the Quadrado, or town square, 1112), then head to the chic restaurant an influx of stylish weekending and art gallery— occupying a cluster of of this coastal Brazilian hideaway. El Gordo (Quadrado; 55-73/3668- Londoners, as well as a growing 18th-century stone houses. Have lunch Framing the square are 60 squat, 2041; dinner for two $100), which number of full-time transplants, mostly at the airy Trouble House (Cirencester traditional houses made from mud offers nearly 50 varieties of cachaça, lapsed urbanites chasing an upscale Rd., Tetbury; 44-1666/502-206; lunch and clay and painted in brilliant hues a Portuguese-focused menu, and agrarian dream. Spend your nights for two $72), which uses fresh fish from lime-green to lavender. Many panoramic cliff-top views. Need to cool at the Barnsley House (Barnsley; 44- and local ingredients such as flour have been converted into artisans’ off? The town beach is an epic stretch 1285/740-000; barnsleyhouse.com; from nearby Shipton Mill and produce workshops, boutiques, and restaurants. of golden sand backed by coconut doubles from $450), whose haute- from Duchy Originals. T+L Tip Browse The place to stay is Uxuá Casa Hotel palms and towering red cliffs.T+L Tip modern interiors belie the traditional for organic foods and crafts made (55-73/3668-2277; uxua.com; doubles Eight more beaches, some accessible gardens, designed by landscape by local artisans at Prince Charles’s from $704, including breakfast), with only by foot or by boat, lie further goddess Rosemary Verey. Visit the Highgrove Shop (10 Long St., Tetbury; four villas facing the Quadrado and from town. One of the best: Praia dos Merriscourt Arts Centre (Sarsden, 44-1666/505-666). another five scattered behind.S hop for Coquieridos, about half a mile south. Chipping Norton; 44-7970/547-765; ceramics made by João Calazans, one merriscourt.com), a collection of 4 travelandleisure.com 2011 romantic getaways The arrival pavilion at the Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora

Osteria Alle Testiere

The spa lobby at the Four Seasons Resort Piazza San Marco Campo San Polo Bora Bora

venice bora-bora patron of the arts water world

Step into any Venetian atelier and outfitted with an antique marble- Romance comes easy on this South find the seven-table restaurantVilla you’ll find craftsmen working just as topped bar. Then settle down at the Pacific isle, where volcanic peaks are Mahana (689/675-063; dinner for two they would have generations ago. A four-room hotel Charming House surrounded by a turquoise lagoon, $138), where Corsican chef Damien peek into the historic textile workshop iQs (Campiello Querini Stampalia, and white-sand beaches give way to Rinaldi Dovio applies classical French of Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua Castello 4425; 39-041/241-0062; coral reefs. Overwater bungalows are techniques to native ingredients. (Campiello della Comare, Santa Croce thecharminghouse.com; doubles the accommodation of choice, and the Order the mahimahi in a curried 1320; 39-041/721-566)—a frequent from $393), a hidden retreat with Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora (Motu banana crust or the seared tuna with source of inspiration for fashion and furnishings by Moroso and B&B Italia. Tehotu; 800/332-3442; fourseasons. vanilla oil, and finish with a sorbet costume designers—underscores the You’ll be lulled to sleep by opera- com; bungalows from $981) has 100 freshly churned from the fruits of skills required to create velvets on singing gondoliers on the nearby textbook examples: thatched-roof local trees. T+L Tip For a spectacular 18th-century looms. For an updated canal. T+L Tip Have an obligatory villas set on piers over the shallows, sunset, head to Vairou Bay, where take on Venice’s seafood traditions, Bellini at Harry’s Bar (Calle Vallaresso, with deep soaking tubs offering views water in every shade of blue stretches book a coveted table at the 22-seat San Marco 1323; 39-041/528-5777; of the magical lagoon. Kayaks, Jet to the horizon and the jagged Osteria Alle Testiere (Calle del Mondo drinks for two $43). The prices may Skis, and snorkeling gear await at silhouette of Mount Otemanu looms Novo, Castello 5801; 39-041/522-7220; be outrageous, but people-watching the beach for guests eager to enjoy 2,385 feet above the powdery strand. dinner for two $138), a tiny restaurant doesn’t get better than this. the warm Pacific water. Nearby you’ll The Hope Town 5 travelandleisure.com 2011 Lighthouse, in romantic getaways the Abacos Harbour Island’s pink-sand beach

The view from Akaroa

Oysters at Martin Bosley’s, in Wellington

An Out Islands road Akaroa sign

new zealand the out islands connect with the landscape the bahamas’ last frontier

New Zealand is a big-sky, small-world a thin ribbon of sea. Save room for a The very name of this Bahamian chain, com; doubles from $250), a trio of kind of place, where everything has plate of briny Bluff oysters atMartin 50 miles off the coast of Florida, colonial plantation–style houses a way of feeling personal, intimate, Bosley’s restaurant, in Wellington conveys an appealing distance from turned exclusive hotel, where ceiling connected. At Black Barn Vineyards (103 Oriental Parade; 64-4/920-8302; humdrum mainland life. The nine fans whirl on porches and deck chairs (Black Barn Rd., Hawke’s Bay; 64- dinner for two $104); they come cottages at Staniel Cay Yacht Club are positioned to catch the sunset. 6/877-7985; blackbarn.com; cottages straight out of the nearby waters. T+L (Staniel Cay; 242/355-2024; stanielcay. Alternatively, the Abaco Club on from $290), you’ll get a taste of local Tip On the South Island, be sure to com; doubles from $165) are an ideal Winding Bay (Marsh Harbour, Great culture all at once: on the North Island, visit Akaroa, the country’s only French jumping-off point for exploring the Abaco; 800/241-3333 or 242/366- it’s a winery, summer concert venue, settlement. The harbor town is home northern half of the Exumas, the 3820; ritzcarlton.com; doubles from art gallery, restaurant, and farmers’ to a charming B&B, Maison de la Mer Out Islands’ chain-within-a-chain. $466) has cream-and-coral bedrooms, market—with lodging. Nearby, the (1 Rue Benoit, Akaroa; 64-3/304-8907; On Harbour Island, white picket a spa, and a golf course along the Elephant Hill Estate & Winery (86 maisondelamer.co.nz; doubles from fences front gingerbread cottages, beach. T+L Tip Island-hopping here Clifton Rd., Te Awanga, Hawke’s Bay; $263, including breakfast), which has and cicadas rattle like castanets in requires a certain laissez-faire: you can 64-6/873-0400; elephanthill.co.nz) cookies in the cupboard and a view of the noonday heat. Here the place get around by ferry, mail boat, or even is worth a detour for lunch on the the boats in the bay. to stay is the Landing (Bay St.; a fishing vessel with a captain willing to coast with a view of grapevines and 242/333-2707; harbourislandlanding. take cash when the marlin aren’t biting. 6 travelandleisure.com 2011 romantic getaways Riad Noir d’Ivoire

Vendors in the medina A guest room at the resort

The pool at Esencia

Tea at Un Déjeuner à Marrakech­

Indigenous royal palm coconuts

marrakesh playa del carmen where time stands still mexico under the radar

Marrakesh these days may be Moroccan antiques, and latticework- Fifty miles south of Cancún, the for technology, outfitted with native best known as a celebrity magnet enclosed pergolas grace the roof deck. six-year-old Esencia (Km 264, Carr. hardwood furnishings, and designed whose ramshackle riads have been Grab a light lunch at Un Déjeuner à Tulum-Cancún; 877/528-3490; for privacy. Most have plunge pools transformed into chic hotels. But Marrakech (2-4 Place Douar Graoua, hotelesencia.com; doubles from $595) that extend from terraces where the most tantalizing elements of Medina; 212-524/378-387; lunch for has dedicated itself to promoting breakfast appears each morning. You the city remain the same: the snake two $30), located along the buzzing Mayan culture while exuding a stylish, could easily believe you’re the only charmers on the Djemaa el-Fna Rue Kennaria shopping strip. T+L private-home feel. The resort’s guiding guest, and may be tempted never to square; the orange tree–edged Avenue Tip For no-pressure browsing, stray light in this endeavor is Doña Bena emerge. But then you’d be missing Mohammed V; the sweet-smelling from the medina and head to Rue Tun, a local mujer sabia (wise woman) out on a massage at the spa, which rose gardens; and those astonishing de la Liberté. You’ll find handmade and keeper of traditions, who was was built using centuries-old Yucatán views of the Atlas Mountains. Stay leather driving shoes for around $75 hired to teach the staff how to prepare construction methods. T+L Tip Savor at the Riad Noir d’Ivoire (31-33 Derb a pair at Atika (34 Rue de la Liberté, Mayan cuisine, to incorporate ancient rustic Mexican dishes and ceviche Jdid, Bab Doukkala; 212-524/380-975; Guéliz; 212-524/436-409) and brightly herbal secrets into spa treatments, made with just-caught fish at the noir-d-ivoire.com; doubles from $255, colored caftans and soft leather and to keep indigenous folklore alive resort’s Sal Y Fuego restaurant. including breakfast), where the nine pants at Intensité Nomade (139 Blvd. for guests and locals alike. Still, each intimate rooms are furnished with Mohammed V, Guéliz; 212-524/431-333). of the 29 rooms is up-to-date: wired 7 travelandleisure.com 2011 romantic getaways

A rooftop terrace in Marrakesh

TRAVEL + LEISURE

Editorial Director nancy novogrod Executive Editor jennifer barr Special Projects Editor irene edwards Contributing Editors peter j. frank, peter jon lindberg Contributing Designers elsa mehary, gary stewart Photo Editor beth Garrabrant Assistant Editor Kathryn o’shea-Evans Reporter DORkys ramos

PHOTOGRAPHERS Paul Bellaart (3) Brown W. Cannon (6) Paul Costello (2) Peter Frank Edwards (1, 5) John Kernick (6, 7, cover) Max Kim-Bee (1) Martin Morrell (4) Anders Overgaard (3) Mark Roper (5) Hugh Stewart (2)

On the cover: Atlas Palace Room at the Mandarin Oriental Jnan Rahma, Marrakesh Photographed by John Kernick THE MODERN FOOD DICTIONARY

INGREDIENTS Definitions and many substitutions for unfamiliar THE ingredients. MODERN COOKING TERMS FOOD Do you know what the word flameproof refers to, or frenched? DICTIONARY The answers are in these pages.

What’s acidulated water? What’s the difference between parboiling and blanching? What’s sansho? In this EQUIPMENT booklet are definitions for You’ll find clear descriptions some essential cooking terms that of equipment, from a bain-marie will smooth your way in the to an immersion blender. kitchen—keep it close at hand. Consider this your cooking tip sheet and food dictionary in one. TECHNIQUES What’s the difference between braising and steeping? You’ll learn the whys and hows for all kinds of cooking methods here. A B C a b

Achiote [ah-chee-OH-tay] The Bain-marie [Banh- slightly musky-flavored, rusty MARIE], or water bath red seed of the annatto tree, A container, usually a roasting available whole or ground. In pan or deep baking dish, that its paste and powder form, it is is partially filled with water. called annatto and is used in Delicate foods, like custards, recipes to add an orange color. are placed in the water bath in their baking dishes during Acidulated water Water to cooking; the surrounding which a mild acid, like lemon water cushions them from the juice or vinegar, has been oven’s heat. added. Foods are immersed in it to prevent them from turning Baking stone or pizza brown. To make acidulated stone A tempered ceramic Artisanal water, squeeze half a lemon slab the size of a baking sheet into a medium bowl of water. or pizza pan. Preheated on the Cheese bottom of the oven, the stone Al dente Italian for “to the distributes an intense, dry heat, tooth.” Refers to the perfect converting a home oven into Cheese (from goat’s- texture, where pasta has a virtual hearth. Breads and sheep’s- or cow’s- lost its raw crunch yet hasn’t pizzas baked directly on milk, usually raw) that become gummy. the stone emerge with tender is made in small centers and crisp crusts. batches by skilled Ancho chile The dried artisans using poblano chile. Generally three Basmati rice A fragrant to four inches long with a deep long-grain rice often used in traditional techniques reddish-brown color. It has Indian cuisine. and recipes. Interest a rich, slightly fruity flavor that in such cheeses has ranges from mild to pungent. Basting Brushing or grown rapidly in ladling a liquid over fish, the United States, Annatto See Achiote poultry or meat to keep it leading to increased moist while cooking. availability of a Arrowroot A starchy thickener that’s like powerful Blanching Boiling food wide selection of cornstarch. Choose arrowroot briefly, anywhere from a few local and European over cornstarch when planning seconds to a minute or two. varieties. to freeze food—it won’t break Blanching may be used to set down. In recipes, substitute color, loosen skin, partially cornstarch or tapioca starch. cook or soften a bitter edge.

2 the modern cook’s dictionary food & wine Blind baking Cooking a pie Brine Heavily salted water Cassis Black currants, used or other pastry crust, either (generally one cup salt per to make crème de cassis, partially or fully, before adding each gallon of water) used to a sweet liqueur, as well as a the filling. Completely line the preserve food or flavor it. syrup that is popular for uncooked crust with aluminum flavoring desserts. foil or parchment paper, then Bruschetta [broo-SKET-ta] fill it with rice, dried beans Italian for toasted or grilled Cazuela Traditional or pie weights to keep it from bread slices, often brushed earthenware baking dishes from shrinking as it bakes. with olive oil and rubbed with Spain. Typically shallow, garlic. Use of the term has cazuelas have a clear glaze on Bonito flakes The dried expanded in recent years to the inside and unglazed flakes of a dark, full-flavored include toppings of other exteriors. They can be used over tuna, used as a seasoning ingredients as well. a direct flame to brown food, and in the traditional Japanese then put in the oven for baking. soup stock dashi, and Bulgur A precooked form of sometimes as a garnish. whole wheat that is crushed Chanterelles Mushrooms to three different grinds. with a golden color and a Bouquet garni [boo-KAY The finest grind is the main funnel-shaped cap. The whole gar-NEE] A little clutch ingredient in tabbouleh. mushroom is edible and is of aromatics (usually bay leaf, prized for its exquisite flavor parsley and thyme) that are Butterflying Splitting a piece and firm texture when cooked. tied together and tossed into of meat or fish almost through, Chanterelles are available simmering stocks, soups and then opening it up to increase both wild and cultivated. stews. Wrap the ingredients surface area and even it out. in kitchen string or cheesecloth, Chicken tender The strip or stuff in a tea ball and hang of meat between the bone and from the edge of the pot. the main section of chicken c breast meat. The tender Braising Cooking food gently separates easily from the in a small amount of liquid over bone and breast. Some low heat for a lengthy period of Caramelizing Cooking sugar recipes will instruct you to time in order to tenderize it until it turns golden brown. remove the tender for a and develop flavor. The food is Meat, vegetables and fruits are boneless breast of a more usually browned beforehand. said to caramelize when they uniform thickness. Others may are cooked until their natural call specifically for tenders. Bread crumbs Fresh or dry sugars are released, causing crumbs are used for breadings, them to brown on the surface. Chiffonade Fine strips of fillers and thickeners. To make greens or leafy herbs, often fresh crumbs, tear up stale Cardoon A Mediterranean used as a garnish. Making a bread and whir briefly in a food vegetable that looks like a large chiffonade is easier if you processor. To make dry crumbs, bunch of celery. Cardoons stack your ingredients before dry sliced or broken bread in a are related to artichokes; the slicing them. If you’re using warm oven and then pulverize gray-green ribs are eaten leaves, like basil, roll the stacks it in a food processor. boiled, braised, baked or fried. lengthwise before slicing.

food & wine the modern cook’s dictionary 3 C D

Chipotle [chee-POAT- Clarifying Clearing cloudy Court bouillon A briefly lay] chile (photo below) liquids (the term is generally cooked, aromatic poaching A dried, smoked jalapeño used in reference to consommés liquid that’s used most often chile with wrinkled, dark- and stocks). A common with fish and sometimes with brown skin and a smoky, method is to stir beaten egg vegetables. It usually consists sweet, almost chocolaty whites and crushed up egg of water, an acid (such as flavor. Chipotles are shells into the liquid and then wine or vinegar), carrots, onions, available dried, pickled or simmer them briefly as they a bouquet garni and salt. canned in adobo sauce draw out impurities. The liquid (a paste made of ground is then strained through a Crème brûlée French for chiles, spices, herbs and cloth-lined sieve. “burned cream.” A chilled vinegar that is often used dessert consisting of a to season meat). rich, creamy custard base Pure ground with a crispy caramelized chipotle chiles sugar topping. are also available. The Crème fraîche [krem chiles are FRESH] A cultured cream from generally added France. As the cream matures, it to stews and thickens and develops a nutty, sauces. very slightly sour, delicious flavor. It is richer and thicker Chorizo A type of pork than sour cream, and it doesn’t sausage commonly used in curdle, even when boiled. In Latin cooking. Chorizo ranges France, it’s used much more in texture from soft to very frequently in sauces than firm. Generally, Mexican heavy cream, the nearest chorizo is made with fresh pork Coconut milk A thick liquid readily available substitute. To and seasoned with chiles and made by steeping grated make your own crème fraîche, vinegar, while Spanish chorizo coconut in hot water. Available add 2 tablespoons of is made with smoked pork, in cans or frozen, it is used in buttermilk to 1 cup of cream. paprika and garlic. many savory and sweet Asian Heat the mixture to lukewarm, dishes. (It is not the liquid then let it stand at room Clarified butter See also found in the center of coconuts, temperature for about 10 Ghee. Butter that’s been nor is it sweetened “cream of hours, or until thickened. melted, then skimmed to coconut,” which is used mainly remove the foam on the for desserts and mixed drinks.) Crimping Pressing or surface. Pour off the liquid To make it, combine equal pinching the edge of a piecrust butter, stopping when you get parts water and shredded fresh together with your fingers to to the milky part. Clarified or dried coconut and simmer shape it into a wavy, decorative butter can be used for until foamy. Strain through ridge. For a double-crusted pie, cooking at high temperatures; cheesecloth, squeezing as the ridge is not only pretty but it is less likely to scorch than much of the liquid as possible also serves to keep the filling regular butter. from the coconut meat. from seeping out.

4 the modern cook’s dictionary food & wine Crostini Small slices of Deglazing Adding a liquid toasted bread, usually topped (such as wine, stock or water) and served as canapés. to the tasty browned drippings left behind in a pan after Croûtes [kroot] Slices of roasting or sautéing. As the bread that have been toasted liquid boils, the pan is scraped or sautéed. Croûtes vary in size with a wooden spoon to and thickness. dissolve the bits. An important step in making sauce or gravy. Curdling Forming curds by overheating. The solid part of Demiglace [DEMMY-glahss] a mixture will separate into A richly flavored, thick glaze clumps when eggs, sour cream made by cooking stock for and other ingredients that hours until it’s syrupy. Debearding require gentle heat to remain creamy get too hot. Deveining Cutting or pulling Pulling off the strong, out the intestinal tract that byssal threads, or runs along the curved back of beards, that mussels lobster tails and shrimp. use to attach them- d Dragées [drah-GHAY] selves to rocks, ropes Tiny ball-shaped hard candies, and each other. often silver or gold, used for Daikon [DYE-kon] Japanese decorating baked goods. The Dulce de leche [DOOL-say for “large root.” A large East term also applies to almonds duh LAY-chay] A Latin dessert Asian radish about 8 to 14 coated with a hard sugar shell. sauce popular in Central and inches long and 2 to 4 inches South America. Made by in diameter with a sweet, tangy Dredging Completely coating cooking milk until caramelized, flavor and crisp, juicy white food with a layer of flour or it is used to flavor candies and flesh (the skin can be either bread crumbs. desserts, such as flans. creamy white or black); also called Chinese radish. Daikon Dressing Coating food, Dutch oven A round, sprouts are a popular garnish especially salads, with two-handled, lidded pot that’s for salads and sushi. vinaigrette or other sauces. as wide as a skillet and as Also, plucking, scaling and deep as a saucepan. It’s Dashi [DAH-shee] A simple removing innards to prepare perfect for dishes that require stock fundamental to Japanese birds and fish for cooking. food to be browned first and cooking (it forms the base for then braised or stewed. miso soup and many sauces). Drippings The delicious Its main ingredients are dried juices that fall to the bottom of Dutch-process cocoa bonito flakes and kombu the pan when meat is roasted. Cocoa that has been treated (seaweed), both of which are The basis of gravy, drippings with an alkali to reduce its strained out before the stock can also be used to boost the acid content, making it milder is used. flavor of other sauces. in flavor and darker in color.

food & wine the modern cook’s dictionary 5 E F

Extra-virgin olive oil taste of raw alcohol and adds The oil that comes from the flavor by slightly caramelizing e first pressing of the olives. food. It’s often done in the Cold-pressing is done without kitchen while making a dish— chemicals and produces a or, for drama, at the table. Eau-de-vie [OWE-duh-VEE] cleaner, less acidic oil. It has French for “water of life,” this no more than 0.8 percent Flameproof Cookware that term refers to a clear spirit acidity, and is judged to have a can be used over the direct distilled from fermented fruit superior flavor; it typically has heat of a burner, rather than juice. Framboise, for example, a noticeable green color. only in the oven. is a raspberry eau-de-vie. Flatiron steak This relatively Edamame [eh-duh-MAH- new cut of beef is from the may] Fresh soybeans, generally f shoulder top blade. It is tender sold frozen in the pod or and cooks quickly. shelled. Japanese restaurants often serve them in the pod to Farro Ancient Italian wheat, Fleur de sel [fler duh SELL] be shelled as you eat them. sold as whole or cracked French for “flower of the salt.” berries or flour. High in fiber, A natural sea salt harvested by Egg wash A glaze for baked protein and B vitamins. hand off the coast of Brittany, goods that gives them a shiny in France. Composed of small, golden crust. Beat an egg with Fava beans Mediterranean flaky crystals, it has a moist a splash of milk (to brown beans similar to lima beans. texture unlike that of regular crusts more quickly) or water The fresh beans come in table salt and a less salty taste. and a pinch of salt. Brush the a large pod and are encased The crystals are sun-dried, mixture on piecrust or bread in a tough skin; the favas need thereby retaining many of the dough just before baking. to be blanched and peeled nutrients not found in more before cooking or eating. Favas common salts. Because of its Emulsifying Blending two are also available dried. rarity and delicate flavor, it incompatible liquids, such is usually used to finish a dish, as oil and vinegar, into a Fingerling potatoes A almost like a condiment. thickened, uniform mixture. variety of small, finger-shaped A vinaigrette is emulsified by potato. Fingerlings are low in Florets The little treelike beating the oil and vinegar starch and great for roasting or pieces (actually clusters of together with a whisk; mustard for making potato salads. flower buds) that you get when may be added to aid in the you cut off the stem from process. For mayonnaise, Flambé [flahm-BAY] Setting the tender part of broccoli and the emulsion is aided by the food on fire by adding wine or divide it into sections. addition of egg yolks. spirits, then igniting the alcohol. Warm the liquid first Foie gras [FWA-grah] French En papillote A French (this makes the alcohol easier to for “fat liver.” The liver from term for food that is baked ignite), then pour it over the a fattened goose or duck. It’s in a wrapping of buttered food and set a long match to it. very rich and often either parchment paper or foil. Flambéing gets rid of the sharp pan-fried or made into pâté.

6 the modern cook’s dictionary food & wine Flour Varieties

While flour can be made by milling any edible grain, wheat flour is most commonly used for baking in the U.S. Wheat is known as “hard” if it has a high gluten content and “soft” if the gluten content is low. Hard flour creates baked goods that hold their shape well and soft flour results in baked goods with a finer texture. There are two basic soft flours: cake flour, which has less gluten, and pastry flour, which has slightly more.

hard flours soft flours semolina flour whole wheat flour pastry flour use: Pasta, breads use: Breads, baked goods use: Pastries notes: A cream-colored, notes: Regular and stone- notes: Substitute equal parts protein-rich flour used for ground contain wheat germ. cake flour and all-purpose flour 7 commercial pasta; it is high More nutritious and flavorful or use /8 cup all-purpose plus in gluten, so pasta made from than white, with more fiber. 2 tbs cornstarch per cup. it holds its shape well. bread flour cake flour all-purpose flour use: Yeast breads use: Cakes and pastries use: Breads, baked goods notes: A high level of gluten notes: Substitute pastry 7 notes: A blend of hard and contributes greater protein flour or use /8 cup all-purpose soft wheat flours. Bleached content to this flour. It also flour plus 2 tbs cornstarch and unbleached can be used adds elasticity, so the dough per cup. For self-rising, 1 cup interchangeably; unbleached can expand more when acted all-purpose plus 1» tsp baking has more nutritional value. on by the yeast. powder and » tsp salt per cup.

Folding Blending ingredients Frenching Scraping the Fromage blanc gently, often adding an airy thin layer of meat, sinew and [fro-MAHZH BLONH] The ingredient to a denser one to fat from the rib bones that name means “white cheese” lighten it. The lighter mixture, protrude from meaty chops, in French. An extremely soft such as beaten egg whites, is especially lamb chops. Done and creamy fresh cheese (also spooned on top and the heavy mainly for looks, it makes picking called fromage frais) that is mixture is gently moved up up a chop less messy. Ask your made with little or no salt, and over with a rubber spatula butcher to do it. which accounts for its very until the two are combined. mild flavor. Its consistency Frittata A firm, flat Italian is similar to that of sour cream. Fregola, or fregula Grain- omelet in which ingredients, In France, fromage blanc is size toasted pasta from Sardinia. such as chopped vegetables, usually served with fresh fruit Fregola is made from semolina are mixed with the eggs and sugar, as part of dessert flour and is wonderful in soups and cooked (without folding) at the end of the meal, but it is and salads. on the stove or in the oven. used in cooking as well.

food & wine the modern cook’s dictionary 7 G H I+J K

Ghee The Hindu term for Gyoza [gee-OH-zah] Served clarified (semiliquid) butter; as an appetizer, gyoza are g it’s one of the main fats used in Japanese dumplings with Indian cooking. Butter is slowly rounds of paper-thin dough melted until the fat separates surrounding a filling of ground from the milky residue. After meat, poultry, shellfish or Galangal A less knobby, the moisture evaporates, vegetables combined with milder cousin of ginger often the remaining milk solids are scallions and various called for in Southeast Asian allowed to brown, which seasonings. Gyoza are shaped recipes. You can substitute gives ghee a nutty flavor and like tiny turnovers and are fresh ginger, but use less of it. aroma. Ghee keeps well sealed by crimping. They are and can be heated to a higher first browned on one side, then Ganache A mixture of melted temperature than solid butter, turned and simmered in broth. chocolate and warm cream which makes it useful for both that is the basis of chocolate sautéing and frying. truffles. Ganache is also used in cake frostings and fillings. Grain As it refers to meat, grain means the direction in h Garam masala [GA-rom which the fibers run. Recipes ma-SAH-la] An aromatic Indian may tell you to cut across the blend of roasted and ground grain, breaking the fibers and Harissa [huh-REE-suh] spices that traditionally includes making meat seem more tender. A fiery-red, North African hot cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, sauce (from Tunisia) that’s nutmeg, coriander, turmeric, Guanciale [gwahn-TCHAH- made from chiles, garlic, cumin, fennel seeds and pepper. leh] Cured pork jowls (cheeks) caraway, coriander and olive It is usually added at the end that are frequently used in oil. Harissa is often used of cooking so its enticing central Italian cooking in as a meat rub or eaten with aroma remains strong when pastas, stews and soups. If it couscous and soup. It is the dish is served. is unavailable, pancetta can commonly sold in tubes and be used in its place. cans in Middle Eastern markets Gelato (photo at right) and some supermarkets. Italian ice cream, You can substitute chili paste denser and finer- or hot pepper sauce. textured than American ice Heirloom vegetables cream because Heirloom vegetables are no air is grown from seeds that have whipped into been saved from season to it. Made with season; they are old-fashioned, milk rather than sometimes oddly ridged or cream, gelato is exotically colored varieties that lower in fat than are valued for their full-flavored our ice cream and taste. In contrast, farmers usually additive-free. who grow for the commercial

8 the modern cook’s dictionary food & wine market aim for vegetables that travel well and have a uniform look. Tomatoes are the i &j k best-known of the heirlooms, but other common heirlooms include carrots, beets, corn, Kaffir lime leaves beans, lettuce, potatoes and Immersion blender (photo below) Glossy, dark fruits. Look for these unusual A handheld blender that can be green leaves of the kaffir vegetables at farmers’ markets. put into a pot of soup or into a lime, a small, pear-shaped, sauce to puree the ingredients. wrinkled citrus fruit grown Hoisin sauce A thick Also ideal for smoothies and in Southeast Asia and reddish-brown, sweet-and- salad dressings. Hawaii. The unique double spicy Chinese condiment, also leaves look like they are called Peking sauce, made Infusing Adding flavorings to joined end to end. Fresh from soybeans, garlic, chiles hot liquid or to oil, then letting leaves have an intense, and various spices. the mixture stand until the fragrant aroma; the taste is as strong as you like. dried rind and leaves Hoja santa [OH-hah SAHN- Oil might be infused with have a milder, exotic tah] Spanish for “holy herb,” chiles, vinegar with tarragon, floral-citrus aroma. hoja santa is a large-leaf herb sugar syrup with vanilla used in the cooking of southern beans. The most common Mexico. Its flavor has hints of infusion is tea, in which water licorice and sassafras. is infused with tea leaves. Substitute equal parts basil and tarragon, using about half Jasmine rice A long-grain Kasha Hulled, roasted as much by volume. rice with a strong floral aroma buckwheat groats. A that is used frequently in Thai pleasantly chewy grain, it Hominy Yellow or white field and Vietnamese cooking. can be eaten as a savory corn that has been soaked in side dish or hot cereal. slaked lime and stripped of Julienning Cutting foods, both hull and germ; also known such as hard vegetables like Kimchi A spicy Korean as posole. One of the foods carrots and jicama or sliced condiment made from American Indians introduced meats like smoked ham, fermented vegetables (napa to the colonists. Available into matchstick-size strips. cabbage brined with hot canned, frozen or dried. Food that has been cut into red peppers and garlic is a Ground hominy is called grits. such strips may be referred familiar combination). to as a julienne. Available at Asian markets, Hot-smoked Curing with hot, kimchi will keep indefinitely rather than cold, smoke. In the Jus Literally “juice,” jus is in the refrigerator. Northwest, salmon is frequently pan drippings (from roasting hot-smoked, which cooks the beef, for example) skimmed Kombu A hardy seaweed fish and produces a drier, flakier of excess fat and extended, used in Japanese cooking. texture than the more common if necessary, by adding a bit of Kombu is a principal ingredient cold-smoking does. water or stock. of dashi (fish stock).

food & wine the modern cook’s dictionary 9 L M N O

Lychees (photo at right) Also known as litchi nuts, l these walnut-size fruits have been cherished in China for 2,000 Lard Rendered pork fat. years. Lychees Lard has a firm texture and is have thin red traditionally used to make flaky shells encasing piecrusts and crispy crusts for soft white flesh fried foods, since it can reach with a hard seed. high temperatures without The taste is delicate, smoking. Used as a verb, the with a texture like that term means to insert strips of of a fibrous grape. Grown fat into a roast to make the in Florida and California, cooked meat more succulent. lychees are available fresh Marinating Immersing from June to mid-July. food in flavored liquid, usually Lardo The Italian equivalent of one containing an acidic fatback, an unrendered form ingredient and at least some of lard. Available brine-cured or oil, for a period of time before seasoned with herbs and m cooking. You can also use spices, lardo is considered a a dry marinade made from delicacy in Tuscany and is used a combination of herbs, not only to flavor soups and Macerating Soaking food, spices and salt. In either stews but to spread on toast. such as fruit, in a flavorful case, the intent is to flavor liquid, such as an eau-de-vie. and tenderize. Leavener An ingredient, such as baking powder, baking Magret A boneless duck Mascarpone A very soft, soda or yeast, that is used to breast, usually cooked rare or rich cow’s-milk cheese from increase the volume of doughs medium-rare like a steak. northern Italy and parts and batters and to lighten of Switzerland. Akin to crème their textures. Manchego A dry, crumbly fraîche or clotted cream. Spanish aged sheep’s-milk Lemongrass A Southeast cheese often grated for use in Matsutake Mushrooms Asian herb that is one of the quesadillas and empanadas. from Japan that grow at the most important flavorings in Substitute good Parmesan or base of certain trees, usually Vietnamese and Thai cooking. aged white cheddar. concealed under fallen leaves. Its aroma and taste are like The rare growing conditions those of the zest from a Mandoline A tool used to cut and difficulty in harvesting particularly fragrant lemon. ingredients, usually vegetables, them account for their steep The plant has a narrow, into various forms, such as thin price. They have a spicy grasslike stalk, most of which slices (plain or ridged) and aroma, similar to cinnamon. is woody; use only the bottom matchstick-size sticks. A metal Ma­tsutake mushrooms are third. Substitute lemon zest or plastic frame holds a blade high in protein, low in fat and with a touch of fresh ginger. over which the food is pushed. rich in vitamins.

10 the modern cook’s dictionary food & wine Medallion A piece of meat Miso Fermented soybean Nopal (plural nopales) that’s been cut across the paste that is a basic ingredient Paddles (leaves) of the prickly grain into a small round or oval in many Japanese dishes. Miso pear (nopal) cactus. Nopales slice before cooking. is usually intensely salty, but are firm and crunchy (the there are many versions, from smaller they are, the more Mesclun Originally a delicate white miso to strongly tender) and have a flavor Provençal mixture of seven flavored dark, or red, miso. similar to green beans. They lettuces, grown together in can be eaten raw or cooked. the same field or garden patch, Mortar and pestle A deep harvested when very young bowl (the mortar) is used Nori Paper-thin Japanese and tender, and enjoyed in as a reservoir for grinding, dried-seaweed sheets that form the early spring. In the U.S., which is done with a handheld the dark outer layer of sushi it has come to mean any implement that’s like a fat, rolls. Cut into strips for garnish; mixture of greens, including blunt and heavy stick (pestle). also used as flavoring. arugula, oak leaf lettuce, mizuna and radicchio. Mulling Flavoring red or white wine or cider by heating it Millet A small grain that looks with sugar, spices, herbs and o like birdseed (in fact, it’s used sometimes fruit, such as as birdseed as well as livestock orange or lemon slices. feed). Prepared like rice, millet Orecchiette Means “little has an appealing, mildly nutty ears” in Italian. Thicker than taste and a cereal-like texture. most forms of pasta, this It is also rich in protein. n disk-shaped pasta is a specialty of Apulia, where it is made Mincing Chopping food into fresh from a combination of very fine pieces. Nam pla An extremely semolina flour, unbleached pungent liquid based on salted, flour, water and salt. Mirepoix [MEER-pwah] A fermented fish. It is sold at combination of diced aromatic most Asian food markets. Used Ovenproof Cookware that vegetables, such as carrots, in both Thai and Vietnamese can be used in the oven, often onions and celery, plus herbs recipes, it is also referred to as made of glass or ceramic. like thyme and bay leaf, nuoc mam (the Vietnamese Some metal saucepans and sautéed in butter and used name) or just Asian fish sauce. skillets are not ovenproof as the flavor base for French because they have plastic soups, stews and sauces. Nonreactive Cooking handles that would melt. vessels, such as stainless steel Mirin A low-alcohol, sweet and glass, that are not affected Oyster sauce A thick, brown golden wine made from by acidic foods like wine, concentrated Asian flavoring glutinous rice; essential in vinegar and tomatoes. By made with soy sauce, brine and Japanese cooking. You may contrast, reactive materials oysters, though the seafood’s substitute rice vinegar mixed like cast iron, copper and flavor is barely detectable. with a little sugar, or use aluminum may discolor foods You can use plain soy sauce as medium-sweet sherry. or impart a metallic taste. a substitute.

food & wine the modern cook’s dictionary 11 P Q R S

Peel, or pizza peel A flat wooden or metal shovel-like p piece of equipment used q for sliding breads and pizza into and out of the oven.

Paillard A piece of meat or Peppadew A small fruit that Quatre-épices French for poultry that has been flattened resembles a walnut-size red “four spices,” quatre-épices is by pounding until evenly thin. bell pepper. They’re available a spice mixture that includes cored and seeded, in jars, in black pepper, nutmeg, cloves Pancetta The Italian version mild and spicy versions, all and either ginger or cinnamon. of bacon, pancetta is generally imported from South Africa. leaner and it is cured with Quenelle A delicate French salt but not smoked. Pancetta Pimentón A Spanish smoked fish or meat dumpling that is comes in a sausagelike roll. paprika, available in many shaped into an oval with styles, from sweet to hot. You pointed ends and poached in Panino (plural panini) can substitute 1 teaspoon stock. You can also shape other A sandwich that is filled with paprika mixed with » teaspoon foods in this way; for example, ham, salami, cheese or other pure ground chile. sweet and savory mousses can ingredients and then grilled in be scooped into quenelles. a press of the same name. Poaching Cooking food In Italy, a panino can be a bread in water, stock or an aromatic Queso blanco Spanish for roll or sandwich. liquid that’s just at a bare “white cheese,” queso blanco simmer, which produces a is a white, slightly salty, Panko Coarse, dry white delicate texture in the food. fresh Mexican cheese with bread crumbs, also known as a texture similar to that of Japanese bread crumbs, used Polenta Italian cornmeal farmer cheese. for breading fried foods. They mush served hot and soft or provide a nuttier, crispier crust chilled until firm, then cut Quinoa [KEEN-wah] A grain than regular bread crumbs. into slices and fried or grilled. similar to buckwheat and Polenta also refers to the amaranth, quinoa was a staple Parboiling Boiling an raw cornmeal. of the ancient Incas. The small, ingredient until partially done disk-like seeds have a delicate so that dense foods like Pomegranate molasses flavor that can be served carrots will be done at the A thick and syrupy, concentrated as a side dish like couscous or same time as quick-cooking juice made from boiling sour rice. Quinoa is extremely ones, like peas. pomegranates with sugar. nutritious—packed with iron, It is used in Middle Eastern and magnesium, B vitamins and Parchment paper A thin Mediterranean countries to calcium. It also has a high yet durable heat-resistant provide tangy flavor to savory protein content, containing all paper usually used to line cake, dishes. You can find it at the essential amino acids. jelly-roll and bread pans as well Middle Eastern markets. Besides being eaten as a grain, as cookie sheets. It prevents quinoa is also ground into flour food from sticking. Posole See Hominy and made into pasta.

12 the modern cook’s dictionary food & wine r

Radicchio An Italian chicory, commonly available as a small purple-and-white, cup-shaped head (radicchio di Verona). Its slight bitterness makes radicchio a flavorful addition to salads. The many variations include radicchio di Treviso, which is shaped like a Belgian Rice paper An edible paper s endive, and the decorative made from the pith of the red-and-white-speckled Asian rice-paper plant. Also, heads from Chioggia round and triangular sheets Sansho A mildly hot (photo at right). of rice paper made from Japanese seasoning made white-rice flour and water are from the aromatic berries Reconstituting Rehydrating used as wrappers for Thai of the prickly ash tree, which dried ingredients, such as and Vietnamese spring rolls. are dried and ground into mushrooms or tomatoes, by a powder. It is closely related soaking them in liquid. Ricing Mashing vegetables to the spice that the Chinese by pushing them through a call Sichuan pepper. Reducing Boiling a liquid, ricer, a handheld utensil like stock or wine, until partially that resembles a very large Sautéing French for “to evaporated to concentrate garlic press. A ricer is an jump.” Cooking food quickly flavor or, with cream, to thicken. excellent tool for mashing over high heat in a small vegetables, like potatoes, that amount of fat. Refreshing Plunging just- get gluey when pureed in the boiled vegetables into cold food processor or blender. Scalding Heating a liquid, water as soon as they have usually milk, almost but not been drained. This stops the Risotto rice The plump quite to a boil. Frequently vegetables from continuing white rice from Italy that can a step in making white sauce. to cook in their own heat. absorb lots of water without getting mushy, which makes Scallops This popular Rendering Cooking poultry it perfect for risotto; also called seafood is the creamy white skin, bacon, fatty cuts of Piedmont rice. The highest adductor muscle of a saltwater meat or just plain fat from grade is superfino. Look bivalve. The term also refers either meat or poultry, so for Arborio, Carnaroli, Roma, to thin, boneless round or oval- that it liquefies. Baldo and vialone nano. shaped slices of meat or fish.

food & wine the modern cook’s dictionary 13 S T C

Scoring Making shallow cuts Simmering Heating a liquid Stock Water that has been in food, usually in a diagonal until gently bubbling but not simmered and flavored with crosshatch pattern, with a knife boiling (approximately 170°). bones, seafood shells or or fork. Scoring tenderizes meat, vegetables and, usually, herbs helps it absorb flavorings—and Skimming Removing scum and spices. For a deeper makes it look attractive. or fat from the surface of a flavor, roast the bones, shells liquid, usually using a ladle. or vegetables before adding Searing Cooking food over them to the water. high heat until a brown crust Smoke point The temperature has formed. at which oil starts to break Sweating Cooking food, down and smoke. Because an usually chopped vegetables Seasoning to taste oil’s flavor turns bitter when like onions, very gently in Adding salt and pepper until it smokes, it’s best to fry in one butter just until they are slightly you think the food tastes that has a high smoke point. softened and beginning to give its best. Even when the recipe Corn, peanut and safflower oil off their moisture. doesn’t specify it, taste a have smoke points over 400°; dish before you serve it and safflower’s is about 450°. season as needed. Starter A mixture of flour and t Shiso (photo below) A liquid that attracts wild yeasts Japanese leaf related to from the air. It is used to make basil with a slightly sweet, sourdough bread. Starter Tahini A pale, thick, creamy peppery, minty taste. was used to raise dough before paste made of ground yeast came in little packets. sesame seeds and sesame The same starter can last for oil, frequently used in Middle years because you use only Eastern cooking. part of it for each loaf and replenish what you’ve taken Tamari An aged Japanese (called “feeding the starter”) sauce made from soybeans, with more flour and liquid. with a richer flavor than ordinary soy sauce. It is a boon Steaming Cooking with the for people with wheat allergies heat from vapor. You can steam because, unlike soy sauce, food in a covered pot with a the soybeans used in tamari steamer insert, a bamboo are not fermented with wheat. Shoyu Japanese soy sauce, steamer or even a strainer set which is sweeter and less salty over a saucepan of water. Tamarind The fruit of a tree than Chinese soy sauce. common in Africa, Asia and Steeping Immersing an India; its pods contain a sticky Shucking Removing a food’s ingredient in hot liquid, either pulp with a sweet-sour taste. outer layer, such as pulling to flavor the liquid, as with Tamarind, like lemon juice, is the husk off a cob of corn, or herbal infusions, or to soften the used as a seasoning. Both forcing open the shell of an food, as when reconstituting the paste and concentrate need oyster and taking out the meat. dried mushrooms. to be thinned before using.

14 the modern cook’s dictionary food & wine Squash Blossoms

A staple in Europe, squash blossoms (photo at right, with baby squash attached) are becoming more widely available at U.S. farmers’ markets in the spring and summer. The flowers can be prepared in many ways; one of the most popular is stuffing them with a soft cheese, dipping them in batter and deep-frying them. Squash blossoms can be used in salads or as a garnish. Before using, remove the pistil in the center. Store them in the refrigerator for no more than a day.

Tapas Small savory dishes are crunchy and slightly Tomatillo A small green served in Spanish restaurants sweet, with the merest hint of tomato-like fruit with a thin and wine bars. They can be brininess. The roe is also papery husk that must simple dishes, such as an available in a range of colors be removed before cooking. assortment of olives, or and flavors and is most often The sharp lemony flavor of more complex. Tapas can be used as a garnish or in sauces tomatillos is popular in served hot or cold, as a snack and dressings. Unlike caviar, Mexican and Southwestern or combined to make an tobiko does not change texture U.S. cooking, especially in entire meal. when sitting in liquid—even sauces and relishes. when heated. Tempering Basically, Trifle A British dessert made warming an ingredient. For Tofu, or bean curd A food of layers of sponge cake or eggs, you do this so they made by pressing coagulated ladyfingers soaked in spirits, won’t curdle when you combine soy milk into blocks, similar such as sherry, alternating them with a hot ingredient. to the way that cheese is with custard and jam and Whisk a bit of the hot liquid made from milk. Tofu is a good topped with whipped cream into the eggs, then whisk that source of protein and it has a and fruit, nuts or chocolate. warmed mixture into the bland flavor that makes it hot liquid. Tempering chocolate capable of taking on the flavor Tri-tip A relatively inexpensive creates a smooth, glossy finish of whatever it is cooked with. cut of beef from the butt on chocolate-coated candies. Tofu comes packed in water, portion of the bottom sirloin, The easiest method is to in three main varieties: also known as triangle roast microwave the chocolate until Firm and regular tofu has a or Santa Maria barbecue. warm to the touch and fairly dense texture and can The triangle steak, or coulotte perfectly smooth. be cut into cubes or crumbled; steak, comes from this cut. soft tofu has a custardlike Like flank steak, the tri-tip will Tobiko Flying-fish roe. In texture and is good for making toughen with prolonged their usual prepared state, the shakes, dips, custards, puddings cooking. Serve it medium-rare, very small, loose, salted eggs and dressings. thinly sliced against the grain.

food & wine the modern cook’s dictionary 15 U–Z

Truffles A highly prized wild Vegetarian A person who Yorkshire pudding An fungus, with a roughly ball-like doesn’t eat meat for a variety English bread that is similar to shape, that grows underground of reasons—sometimes a popover. It’s made of a thin near the roots of certain trees, because of religious beliefs or batter of flour, eggs and milk generally oaks. Truffles come health concerns. There are and is traditionally baked in in two varieties: white (from many variations: A vegan will beef drippings and served as a Italy) and black (from France). not eat any animal-derived side dish with a roast. Both are extremely expensive. foods, such as butter, cheese, In addition, chocolate candies milk and eggs; ovo-lacto Yukon Gold potato A that are made with ganache vegetarians eat eggs and milk; thin-skinned, yellow-fleshed and formed into balls are pescatarians eat fish; and semi- all-purpose potato that’s tasty known as truffles. vegetarians eat fish and poultry. and versatile; it can be boiled, baked, mashed and fried. Turbinado sugar Vinaigrette A mixture in an A raw sugar cleaned by a approximate ratio of three or Zabaglione An Italian steam process to remove four parts oil to one part acid form of the French sabayon. contaminants. It gets its pale (usually vinegar). The blend is Eggs, sugar and wine (typically golden color and mild flavor seasoned with salt and pepper Marsala) are whipped until from the small amount and may include other flavorings frothy and served in glasses as of molasses (cane juice) left like mustard (which lends a dessert. This light custard on the crystals. a sharp flavor and can also be can also be used as a sauce for used to thicken the dressing). fresh or poached fruit. Although best-known as salad dressings, vinaigrettes are Zest The outermost colored u-z versatile sauces for meats and part of citrus peel, with none of vegetables and can also be the bitter white pith included. used as dips and marinades. Usually grated and used as Udon Thick Japanese noodles a flavoring in raw and cooked made occasionally of corn Wasabi (photo at right) savory and sweet dishes. flour but usually of white wheat The root of an Asian plant flour. Udon are extremely soft, similar to horseradish that almost pillowy. They are is used to make the sharp, available fresh, frozen and fiery, green condiment dried at Asian markets. commonly served with sushi. The wasabi that is Ultrapasteurization A form available in the U.S. is of pasteurization in which milk actually an inexpensive or other liquid is held at a substitute (horseradish higher temperature (275° for mixed with mustard and 4 seconds) than is usual green coloring) that for pasteurization (161° for can be found as a paste 15 seconds); it was developed or powder (the latter as a way to extend shelf life. is mixed with water much Often used for whipping cream. like dry mustard is).

16 the modern cook’s dictionary food & wine OTHER TERRIFIC BOOKS FROM FOOD & WINE

Food & Wine Annual Cookbook Every delicious recipe from an entire year of Food & Wine magazine in one fabulous book.

Best of the Best The best recipes from the best cookbooks of the year. Top picks from hundreds of recipes tested in F&W’s kitchens.

F&W’s Wine Guide The ultimate wine guide. Over 1,000 wines reviewed in a pocket-size book.

F&W’s Cocktail Guide Our indispensable guide offers more than 100 signature drinks from the country’s hottest restaurants, bars and lounges.

Photographs Keller & Keller: p. 5 To order, call 800-284-4145 or Andrew McCaul: p. 9, 14, 16 log on to foodandwine.com. Kana Okada: p. 8 Tina Rupp: p. 2 Hector Sanchez: Cover Evan Sklar/Food Pix: p. 10 Mikkel Vang: p. 4 Wendell T. Webber: p. 13, 15

Prop Stylists Philippa Brathwaite: p. 2, 15 Christine Rudolph: p. 4 Alistair Turnbull: Cover, p. 5

Food Stylists Alison Attenborough: p. 4, 5 Frances Boswell: p. 15 Jamie Kimm: Cover Jee Levin: p. 2, 8

A COOK’S MEASURING GUIDE

Basic Measurements 2 A COOK’S Metric Conversions 2 MEASURING Sugar Temperatures 3 GUIDE Fahrenheit/Celsius Conversions 3 Cookware Sizes 4 Ever wondered what a “medium” saucepan is? What to do if a Cookware Measurements 4 recipe calls for 2 cups of shredded Bakeware Sizes 5 cheese but your store only carries Ingredient Substitutions 6 cheese in 1-pound blocks? How Fish 6 many sticks of butter equal a half Pasta Shapes 7 pound? How much raw spinach Herbs and Spices 8 yields 1 cup cooked? This booklet is Pantry Staples 10 full of useful measurements and Ingredient Equivalents 12 equivalents and also provides lots of Vegetables 12 substitution advice—for everything Nuts 13 from pasta shapes to herbs to fish. Fruits 14 Eggs and Dairy 15 measurements

Basic Measurements

gallon quart pint cup ounce tbs tsp drops 1 gal 4 qt 8 pt 16 c 128 fl oz » gal 2 qt 4 pt 8 c 64 fl oz ¥ gal 1 qt 2 pt 4 c 32 fl oz » qt 1 pt 2 c 16 fl oz ¥ qt » pt 1 c 8 fl oz 16 tbs

7/8 c 7 fl oz 14 tbs ‚ c 6 fl oz 12 tbs ‹ c 5¬ fl oz 10‹ tbs

5/8 c 5 fl oz 10 tbs » c 4 fl oz 8 tbs › c 3 fl oz 6 tbs ¬ c 2‹ fl oz 5¬ tbs 16 tsp ¥ c 2 fl oz 4 tbs 12 tsp „ c 1 fl oz 2 tbs 6 tsp » fl oz 1 tbs 3 tsp » tbs 1» tsp 1 tsp 60 drops » tsp 30 drops

Metric Conversions

metric u.s. u.s. metric 1 ml 12 drops 1 tsp 5 ml 1 cl 2 tsp 1 tbs 15 ml 1 dl 6‹ tbs 1 oz 30 ml 1 lit 1 qt 1 c 237 ml

1 gm 1/25 oz 1 pt » lit

1 dag 2/5 oz 1 qt 1 lit 1 hg 3» oz 1 gal 4 lit 1 kg 2.2 lb 1 oz 28 gm

1 mm 1/25 in 1 lb » kg

1 cm 2/5 in 1 in 2» cm 1 dm 4 in 1 ft ¬ m

1 m 1 yd 3 in 1 yd 9/10 m

2 a cook’s measuring guide food & wine temperatures

Sugar Temperatures Fahrenheit/Celsius Conversions

Candy recipes often specify a certain stage The chart below translates degrees (such as “soft ball”) of cooked sugar, Fahrenheit (F) into degrees Celsius (C). corresponding to temperature; the hotter For temperatures not listed here, use this the sugar becomes, the harder it will be when formula: (°F-32) x 0.56 = °C. You’ll find it cools to room temperature. You’ll find the equivalent gas mark measurements the stages most frequently called for outlined (regulos) indicated on professional ovens, below. All temperatures are approximate. including those sold for home use.

°F °C sugar : water • • 475° 248° Gas mark 9

liquid 450° 234° Gas mark 8 214°F all sugar dissolves

syrup 425° 220° Gas mark 7

400° 206° Gas mark 6

soft ball 375° 192° Gas mark 5 238°F soft ball forms in cold water 350° 178° Gas mark 4

325° 164° Gas mark 3 hard ball cooked sugar cooked firm but pliable ball 300° 150° Gas mark 2 255°F forms in cold water 275° 136° Gas mark 1 250° 122° light crack 212° 100° Water boils at sea level 280°F brittle threads stick to teeth 200° 94° Gas mark 0

170° 77° Water simmers

300°F 150° 66° hard crack very brittle threads 125° 52° do not stick to teeth 100° 38° 310°F 68° 20° Room temperature 50° 10°

320°F 40° 4° caramel light to golden 32° 0° Water freezes brown color

360°F 0° -18° -10° -23°

food & wine a cook’s measuring guide 3 cookware

Cookware Sizes

When a recipe instructs you to use a small saucepan or a medium skillet, what size does that mean? Here, the pans, pots and baking dish sizes most commonly called for in recipes.

saucepans skillets

1»– 4 qt 11–12 in 9–10 in 1 qt 2 qt 7–8 in

small medium large small medium large

dutch ovens stockpots

16–20 qt 8 qt 12 qt 6 qt 6–8 qt 2 qt

small medium large small medium large roasting pans baking dishes

13x9x2 in 14x11x2 in 16x13x3 in 1 qt 2 qt 3 qt

small medium large small medium large

How to Measure Cookware

When following a recipe, it is very important to know that the size of your pot, pan or baking dish matches what is called for. Manufacturers sometimes mark their cookware in inches or quarts. But often they don’t. Here’s what you need to know.

depth Measure on the inside width from the bottom of a dish, pot or bakeware Measure across the top of the pan to the rim. pan, from inside edge to inside edge. volume Fill the cookware (a baking dish, fluted baking pans Measure from the ramekin, soufflé mold, saucepan or any inside of an outward curve to the inside of other piece of equipment) to the rim the opposite outward curve. with water and then carefully pour the saucepans and skillets Measure across water into a measuring cup. the top, from outside edge to outside edge.

4 a cook’s measuring guide food & wine cookware

Baking Pan Sizes

Use the chart below when you don’t have the specific pan called for in a recipe. You’ll see that the exact same amount of cake batter, for instance, can be poured into a 9 x 2-inch round pan, a 9 x 9 x 1 1/2-inch square pan or in a standard muffin pan to make 16 muffins. Whatever pan you use, keep in mind that the batter should never fill it completely.

pan type size approximate volume cake pans Round 8 x 1» inches 4 cups 8 x 2 inches 6 cups 9 x 1» inches 6 cups 9 x 2 inches 8 cups 10 x 2 inches 10 cups Bundt 7» x 2» inches 6 cups 9 x 3 inches 9 cups 10 x 3» inches 12 cups Tube 8 x 3 inches 9 cups 9 x 3 inches 12 cups 10 x 4 inches 16 cups Rectangular 11 x 7 x 2 inches 6 cups 13 x 9 x 2 inches 14 cups Square 8 x 8 x 1» inches 6 cups 8 x 8 x 2 inches 8 cups 9 x 9 x 1» inches 8 cups 9 x 9 x 2 inches 9 cups Springform 8 x 3 inches 6 cups 9 x 3 inches 8 cups 10 x 2» inches 10 cups loaf pans 8» x 4» x 2» inches 6 cups 9 x 5 x 3 inches 8 cups pie pans 9 x 1» inches 4 cups 9» x 2 inches 6 cups fluted tart pans 4 x 1¥ inches » cup 8 x 1 inch 1» cups 9 x 1› inches 4 cups muffin cups Mini 1‚ x ‚ inch 2 tablespoons Standard 2‚ x 1› inches » cup

Giant 3 x 1¥ inches 5/8 cup

food & wine a cook’s measuring guide 5 ingredient substitutions

You may not always have the ingredient called for in a particular recipe, but there’s often a good substitute that’s more readily available or even one that you happen to have on hand. Many types of fish, shapes of pasta and common herbs and spices are interchangeable. And if you run out of a pantry staple, chances are there’s a suitable stand-in.

Fish Substitutions

If the fish called for in a recipe is out of season or unavailable, you can almost always substitute a similar one. Every fish is unique, so the dish will be slightly different—but no less delicious. flavor texture choices mild flaky Flounder, fluke, freshwater bass, hake, lake perch, sand dab, sole (such as gray or lemon), trout, whitefish, whiting mild relatively firm Medium flake: Black sea bass, catfish, John Dory, ocean perch, pike, pompano, porgy, red snapper, rockfish, sea bass, skate, striped bass, tilapia, tilefish, walleye, wolffish Large flake: Blackfish, cod/scrod, grouper, haddock, halibut, pollack, turbot moderate firm Mahimahi, mako, monkfish, sturgeon, swordfish, tuna, wahoo strong flaky Small: Whole fish, such as anchovies, herring, sardines, smelts Medium to large: Atlantic mackerel, bluefish, kingfish, shad strong relatively firm Arctic char, mullet, salmon, Spanish mackerel

6 a cook’s measuring guide food & wine Pasta Shape Substitutions

Recipes often match a pasta sauce to a specific pasta shape. If you don’t have the exact shape called for, use the wheel below to find an alternative. Five very basic shapes—the ones you probably have in your pantry—are in the center of the wheel and can be substituted

for the ones in the outer ring, which are more specialized. whole-wheat linguine

spaghetti

perciatelli

egg noodles

linguine spaghetti pappardelle piccole

tagliatelle fettuccine

fedelini spaghettini

shells farfalle

orecchiette penne vermicelli

fusilli

rotelle penne rigate ziti

rigatoni

cavatappi elbow macaroni elbow

food & wine a cook’s measuring guide 7 ingredient substitutions

Herb & Spice Substitutions

If you don’t have the herb or spice you need to make a recipe, don’t worry. Many common herbs and spices have equally common substitutes. You’ll find a number of these listed below, along with stand-ins for harder-to-find flavorings like lemongrass and lovage. To substitute dried herbs for fresh, use one-third of the quantity specified. In general, herbs with delicate leaves, like cilantro, don’t dry well, but those with sturdy leaves, such as rosemary and thyme, can be dried without losing too much flavor.

herb substitute notes for the cook basil mint Basil is a member of the mint family. chervil tarragon Tarragon is stronger than chervil, so use less. chives scallion greens Both have a mild onion flavor. dill tarragon or Tarragon, like dill, partners well with seafood fresh fennel fronds and eggs. Fennel has a stronger anise flavor than dill, but they can be used interchangeably. lemongrass lemon zest Use one 3-by-»-inch strip of lemon zest for each stalk of lemongrass. lovage celery leaves and Use an equal amount of chopped celery leaves and curry or pepper a pinch of curry powder or freshly ground pepper. marjoram oregano The two herbs can be used almost interchangeably. Oregano is stronger than marjoram, so use less. parsley mint or Although different in taste, either mint or celery celery leaves leaves will add a fresh flavor to a dish. rosemary savory or thyme All pair well with meat and poultry and are often used in Mediterranean cooking. sage rosemary, thyme or These herbs and seasonings, while different in poultry seasoning flavor, all pair especially well with poultry. thyme herbes de provence, All of these seasoning blends contain thyme. poultry seasoning or italian seasoning

8 a cook’s measuring guide food & wine spice substitute notes for the cook allspice cinnamon, nutmeg Use 1 part each of cinnamon and nutmeg to and cloves 2 parts cloves. caraway seeds dill seeds Though somewhat different in flavor, they are of equal strength, so use equal amounts. celery seeds celery salt When using celery salt, omit the salt in the recipe. cilantro parsley and lemon Use more chopped fresh parsley and a little lemon or mint juice, or use 6 parts parsley to 1 part chopped mint. cloves allspice Allspice is milder than cloves, so use more. cumin chili powder In Mexican-inspired dishes, use chili powder. or caraway seeds When substituting caraway seeds for cumin, use half as much. fennel seeds anise seeds or pernod Sweetened anise liqueurs, such as anisette or Sambuca, work in desserts such as puddings, custards and cookies. galangal ginger and cardamom Use 3 parts ground ginger to 1 part cardamom. ground ginger fresh ginger Use finely grated fresh ginger instead of ground for a slightly hotter ginger flavor. You’ll need twice as much. juniper berries gin Use 1 tablespoon of gin for every 2 to 3 juniper berries. mace nutmeg Nutmeg is more pungent than mace, so use one-fourth the amount. mustard (dry) prepared mustard Use about 1 tablespoon prepared mustard for each teaspoon of dry mustard. nutmeg allspice Use an equal amount. red pepper chili oil, tabasco sauce To avoid overseasoning, start with a little chili oil (crushed) or other hot sauce or hot sauce and taste as you add more. saffron turmeric or To achieve the color (but not the flavor) of saffron, use annatto seeds an equal amount of turmeric or steep the annatto seeds in a little boiling water and use the liquid.

food & wine a cook’s measuring guide 9 ingredient substitutions

Pantry Staple Substitutions ingredient substitute arrowroot 1 teaspoon = 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour = 1» teaspoons cornstarch baking powder 1 teaspoon = ¥ teaspoon baking soda plus » teaspoon cream of tartar butter » pound (2 sticks) = 7/8 cup vegetable oil = 7/8 cup shortening chocolate Unsweetened 1 ounce melted = 3 tablespoons cocoa powder plus 1 tablespoon butter, shortening or vegetable oil Semisweet pieces One 6-ounce package = 1 cup chopped dark chocolate coconut milk 1 cup = 1 cup heavy cream cognac 1 tablespoon = 1 tablespoon brandy, bourbon or whiskey cornstarch 1 tablespoon = 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour = 2 teaspoons arrowroot cream Crème fraîche » cup = » cup sour cream = ¥ cup sour cream plus ¥ cup heavy cream Half-and-half 1 cup = » cup light cream plus » cup milk Light 1 cup = » cup heavy cream plus » cup milk Sour 1 cup = 1 cup plain yogurt fish sauce 1 tablespoon = 1 tablespoon soy sauce blended with 4 mashed anchovies flour All-purpose 1 cup = 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons cake flour

Cake 1 cup = 7/8 cup (1 cup minus 2 tablespoons) all-purpose flour Self-rising 1 cup = 1 cup all-purpose flour plus 1¥ teaspoons baking powder and a pinch of salt horseradish 1 tablespoon grated fresh = 2 tablespoons prepared lemon Juice 1 teaspoon juice = » teaspoon vinegar Zest 1 teaspoon grated zest = » teaspoon pure lemon extract madeira 1 tablespoon = 1 tablespoon sherry or port marsala 1 tablespoon = 1 tablespoon sherry or port

10 a cook’s measuring guide food & wine ingredient substitute milk Buttermilk 1 cup = 1 cup yogurt = 1 tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice plus enough milk to equal 1 cup, left to stand for 5 minutes Skim 1 cup = » cup evaporated skim milk plus » cup water = ¬ cup nonfat dry milk plus ‚ cup water Whole 1 cup = » cup evaporated milk plus » cup water mirin 1 tablespoon = 1 tablespoon sweet sherry or sweet vermouth molasses 1 cup = 1 cup dark corn syrup = ‚ cup brown or granulated sugar plus ¥ cup more liquid used in recipe pancetta Ounce for ounce, use lean bacon prosciutto Ounce for ounce, use country ham sake 1 tablespoon = 1 tablespoon dry sherry or vermouth tamarind paste 1 tablespoon = 1 tablespoon prune puree plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice tapioca, 1 tablespoon = 1» tablespoons all-purpose flour quick cooking tomato puree 1 part tomato paste to 1 part water tomato sauce 1 part tomato paste to 2 parts water vinegar Wine 1 teaspoon = 2 teaspoons lemon juice Balsamic 1 tablespoon = 1 tablespoon wine vinegar plus a pinch of sugar wasabi Powdered 1 teaspoon = 1 teaspoon hot dry mustard Prepared 1 teaspoon = 1 teaspoon dry mustard plus » teaspoon vinegar plus ¥ teaspoon oil plus „ teaspoon salt yeast Dry 1 envelope = 1 scant teaspoon = ¥ ounce Fresh 1 small cake (0.6 ounce) = 1 envelope dry yeast yogurt 1 cup = 1 cup buttermilk = 1 cup sour cream

food & wine a cook’s measuring guide 11 ingredient equivalents

Vegetable Measurements & Equivalents vegetable equivalents artichoke hearts 9-ounce package frozen = 2 cups; 14-ounce can = 1¬ cups quartered asparagus 1 pound = 12 to 16 stalks = 2» cups cut into pieces avocado 1 avocado = 8 ounces = 1 cup cubed = ‚ cup mashed beans, canned 15-ounce can = 1‹ cups drained = » cup dried, cooked beans, green 1 pound fresh = 2‹ cups cut into pieces beets 1 pound trimmed = 2 cups cooked and sliced bell pepper 1 large bell pepper = » pound = 1 cup chopped cabbage 1-pound head = 4 cups shredded carrot 1 carrot = 3 ounces = » cup chopped celery 1 rib = 2 ounces = » cup chopped chickpeas 15-ounce can = 1‚ cups drained = ‹ cup dried, cooked collard greens 1 pound = 1» cups cleaned and cooked corn 1 ear = » cup kernels; 10-ounce package frozen = 1‚ cups kernels cucumber 1 cucumber = » pound = 1‚ cups sliced eggplant 1 eggplant = 1 pound = 2» cups diced fennel One ‚-pound bulb = 7 ounces trimmed = 2¬ cups chopped leeks 2 pounds trimmed = 4 cups sliced or chopped = 2 cups cooked lima beans 10-ounce package frozen = 2 cups; 1 pound fresh in the pod = 1 cup shelled mushrooms 1 pound = 6 cups sliced or 4 cups chopped okra 10-ounce package frozen = 2 cups = ‚ pound fresh onion 1 onion = 6 ounces = 1» cups chopped onions, pearl 1-pound package frozen = 2» cups = 20 fresh parsnips, rutabagas 1 pound = 2» cups cubed or turnips peas, black-eyed 10-ounce package frozen = 2 cups; 15-ounce can = 1‚ cups drained peas, green 10-ounce package frozen = 1‚ cups = 1» pounds fresh in the pod potatoes, sweet 1 pound = 2 large potatoes = 3 cups sliced = 2 cups mashed

12 a cook’s measuring guide food & wine vegetable equivalent potatoes, white 1 pound = 2 potatoes = 3 cups sliced = 2 cups mashed pumpkin 28-ounce can puree = 3» cups salad greens » pound = 6 cups spinach 1 pound fresh = 10 ounces cleaned = ¬ cup cooked and drained 10-ounce package frozen = » cup thawed and drained tomatillos 1 pound = 12 to 16 medium = 2 cups pureed tomatoes 1 pound fresh = 2 large = 2 cups chopped with juice = ‚ cup cooked to a sauce 1 pound cherry = 3 cups 15-ounce can crushed in puree = 1‹ cups 28-ounce can with juice = 3» cups 15-ounce can diced with juice = 1‹ cups 15-ounce can puree or sauce = 1‹ cups winter squash 1 pound = 1 cup cooked and mashed zucchini 1 zucchini = » pound = 1‚ cups cubed

Nut Measurements & Equivalents

For most varieties of nuts, 1 cup of shelled whole nuts or halves weighs about 31/2 ounces and 1 cup of ground nuts weighs about 4 ounces. nut equivalent almonds 1 pound in the shell = 1¥ cups shelled chestnuts 1 pound in the shell = 2» cups shelled = 35 to 40 = 2 cups pureed hazelnuts 1 pound in the shell = 1» cups shelled peanuts 1 pound in the shell = 2¬ cups shelled pecans 1 pound in the shell = 2» cups shelled pistachios 1 pound in the shell = 3» cups shelled walnuts 1 pound in the shell = 2 cups shelled

food & wine a cook’s measuring guide 13 ingredient equivalents

Fresh Fruit Measurements & Equivalents fresh fruit equivalents apples 2 pounds = 3 large = 4¬ cups sliced apricots 1 pound = 8 to 10 medium bananas 1 pound = 3 bananas = 1 cup mashed = 2 cups sliced blackberries 1 pint = 2 scant cups blueberries 1 pint = 2 scant cups cherries 1 pound = 2 to 2» cups pitted coconut 1 coconut = 3 cups shredded cranberries 12-ounce bag = 3 cups grapefruit 1 medium = ‹ cup juice lemon, juice 1 medium = ¥ cup juice lemon, zest 1 medium = 1 to 1» teaspoons finely grated zest lime, juice 1 medium = 3 tablespoons juice lime, zest 1 medium = ‚ teaspoon finely grated zest nectarines 1 pound = 3 medium = 2 to 2» cups sliced orange, juice 1 medium = » cup juice orange, zest 1 medium = 2 to 3 tablespoons finely grated zest peaches 1 pound = 3 medium = 2 to 2» cups sliced pears 1» to 2 pounds = 3 medium = 4» to 6 cups sliced pineapple 1 medium = 3 cups cubed; 1 large = 4 cups cubed plums 1 pound = 6 medium = 2» cups halved or sliced pomegranate 1 medium = 1 cup seeds quinces 1 pound = 3 medium = 1» cups chopped raspberries 1 pint = 2 scant cups rhubarb 1 pound = 6 to 8 stalks = 3» cups sliced = 2 cups cooked strawberries 1 pint = 2 cups sliced

14 a cook’s measuring guide food & wine Dried Fruit Measurements & Equivalents dried fruit equivalent apricots 1 pound = 3¬ cups currants 10 ounces = 2 cups dates 1 pound = 2» cups pitted = 2» cups chopped figs 1 pound = 3 cups chopped prunes 1 pound = 3 cups raisins 1 pound = 2‚ cups

Egg and Dairy Measurements & Equivalents product equivalent butter 1 stick = 4 ounces = 8 tablespoons = » cup = ¬ cup clarified 1 pound = 4 sticks = 2 cups cheese Blue 4 ounces = 1 cup crumbled Cheddar 4 ounces = 1 cup shredded Cottage 8 ounces = 1 cup Cream 3-ounce package = 6 tablespoons 8-ounce package = 1 cup Goat 4 ounces fresh = » cup Parmesan 4 ounces = 1 cup grated Ricotta 1 pound = 2 cups Swiss 4 ounces = 1 cup shredded cream Heavy 1 cup = 2 to 2» cups whipped Sour 8 ounces = 1 cup eggs (large) 5 whole = 1 cup 1 white = about 2 tablespoons 8 to 10 whites = 1 cup 1 yolk = 1 tablespoon 12 to 14 yolks = 1 cup milk Sweetened Condensed 14-ounce can = 1¥ cups Evaporated 5-ounce can = ‹ cup 12-ounce can = 1» cups

food & wine a cook’s measuring guide 15 notes

16 a cook’s measuring guide food & wine OTHER TERRIFIC BOOKS FROM FOOD & WINE

Food & Wine Annual Cookbook Every delicious recipe from an entire year of Food & Wine magazine in one fabulous book.

Best of the Best The best recipes from the best cookbooks of the year. Top picks from hundreds of recipes tested in F&W’s kitchens.

F&W’s Wine Guide The ultimate wine guide. Over 1,000 wines reviewed in a pocket-size book.

F&W’s Cocktail Guide Our indispensable guide offers more than 100 signature drinks from the country’s hottest restaurants, bars and lounges.

To order, call 800-284-4145 or log on to foodandwine.com.

Cover Photograph Wendell T. Webber

OUR 20 BEST RECIPES EVER

STARTERS Garlicky Caesar Salad Chunky Guacamole OUR 20 Tangy Tabbouleh Salad BEST Warm Crab Dip RECIPES MAIN COURSES EVER Mushroom Risotto Macaroni and Cheese Here we present 20 of our best Spaghetti with Bolognese Sauce recipes from the past 27 years. They range from such tried-and- Grilled Pizzas with Prosciutto true American classics as Jamaican Jerk Chicken fried chicken to newer standards Fried Chicken with Tomato Gravy like our chunky guacamole and Herb-Roasted Chicken hot-and-smoky jerk chicken. Chicken Tikka Masala They are as earthy as macaroni Beef Stew and cheese topped with buttery Tofu with Spicy Meat Sauce crumbs, as elegant as molten chocolate cake and as comforting Mrs. Duvall’s Pan-Fried Crab Cakes as warm crab dip, lemon meringue pie and crisp Caesar salad. DESSERTS Apricot-Berry Crumble Nutty Chocolate Chip Cookies Molten Chocolate Cakes Rustic Apple Tart Lemon Meringue Pie starters

Garlicky Caesar Salad 1. In a large wooden or ceramic bowl, mash the total: 45 min chopped anchovies and garlic to a paste with a 6 servings large wooden spoon. Whisk in the lemon juice, This authentic Caesar salad, from chef Terrance then whisk in the egg yolks and stir in the grated Brennan of Picholine and Artisanal restaurants Parmesan cheese. In a slow, steady stream, whisk in New York City, gets a flavor wallop from large in the olive oil until blended. doses of chopped garlic and anchovies. The 2. Add the romaine, croutons and pepper to the creamy dressing is made with raw egg yolks; if dressing and toss to coat. Add the Parmesan you want an alternative, coddle the eggs by boil- shavings and toss lightly. Transfer to a bowl, gar- ing them in water for 3 minutes before using. nish with the anchovy fillets and serve. One 2-ounce can olive oil–packed note To make the croutons, toss stale country anchovies—drained, rinsed and finely bread cubes with melted butter. Spread the cubes chopped—plus 8 anchovy fillets on a baking sheet and toast in a 350° oven for for garnish about 10 minutes, or until golden. 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic ¥ cup fresh lemon juice Chunky Guacamole 4 large egg yolks with Cumin » cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, total: 30 min plus » cup Parmesan shavings 6 to 8 servings 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil Choosing a guacamole recipe that will please About 5 romaine lettuce hearts, everybody is no easy task, but this one from cut into 1»-inch pieces F&W’s Marcia Kiesel is a winner because of its (24 cups) subtle tartness, nicely balanced heat and creamy- 2 cups large country bread chunky texture. croutons (see Note) » teaspoon cumin seeds 2 teaspoons freshly 5 large Hass avocados, halved and pitted cracked black pepper 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro 1 small onion, minced 1 large garlic clove, minced 1 jalapeño, with some seeds, minced Salt 1. In a small skillet, toast the cumin seeds over moderately high heat, shaking the skillet, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Transfer the cumin seeds to a mortar to cool completely, then finely grind with a pestle. 2. Scoop half of the avocados into a large bowl and coarsely mash them with a fork. Stir in the lemon juice, cilantro, onion, garlic, jalapeño and ground cumin. Scoop chunks of the remaining avocados into the bowl; stir lightly with a spoon. Garlicky Caesar Salad Season the guacamole with salt and serve at room temperature or lightly chilled.

2 our 20 best recipes ever food & wine Tangy Tabbouleh Salad Warm Crab Dip with Fresh Herbs active: 25 min; total: 45 min total: 30 min 6 servings 12 servings Grace Parisi’s version of this Middle Eastern salad 4 tablespoons unsalted butter is a favorite at F&W because it has lots of greens, 1 large shallot, minced and the bulgur is just the right texture. 1 tablespoon dry vermouth 1 cup medium bulgur (6 ounces), rinsed ‚ cup cream cheese (6 ounces), softened Hot water ¥ cup crème fraîche or heavy cream ¥ cup fresh lemon juice ¥ cup mayonnaise ¥ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 pound plum tomatoes—halved, seeded 3 tablespoons minced chives and coarsely chopped (2 cups) 2 teaspoons finely chopped tarragon 4 scallions, white and tender green parts Salt and cayenne pepper only, thinly sliced (» cup) 1» pounds jumbo lump crabmeat, picked ¬ cup finely chopped flat-leaf over to remove any bits of shell parsley, plus ¬ cup whole leaves ‹ cup coarse dry bread crumbs ¬ cup finely chopped mint Pita chips or toasted baguette slices, Salt and freshly ground pepper for serving 1. In a large bowl, cover the bulgur with 2 inches 1. In a medium skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of the of hot water and let soak for 20 minutes. Drain butter. Add the shallot and cook over moderate the bulgur in a fine sieve, pressing hard to extract heat until just beginning to brown. Add the ver- any excess water. Wipe out the bowl. mouth and cook until nearly evaporated, about 2. In the same bowl, whisk the lemon juice with 1 minute. Remove from the heat and stir in the the olive oil. Add the bulgur, tomatoes, scallions, cream cheese, crème fraîche, mayonnaise, mus- chopped parsley, parsley leaves and mint. Season tard, chives and tarragon. Season with salt and the tabbouleh with salt and pepper and toss. Let cayenne and fold in the crabmeat, breaking it up stand for 10 minutes before serving. slightly with a spoon. Spread the dip in a shallow baking dish or 12 shallow ramekins. 2. Preheat the broiler. Position a rack 10 inches from the heat. In a small glass bowl, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter in a microwave oven. Stir in the bread crumbs and a pinch of salt. Sprinkle the crumbs over the crab dip and broil until the dip is heated through and the top- ping is golden, about 2 minutes; shift the baking dish for even browning. Serve warm with pita chips or toasted baguette slices. —G.P. make ahead The recipe can be prepared through Step 1 and refrigerated overnight. Return to room temperature before broiling. wine A ripe but crisp Riesling will highlight the sweet crab and have enough body to complement Tangy Tabbouleh Salad the cream cheese. Look for an American example, such as the 2003 Jekel Monterey.

food & wine our 20 best recipes ever 3 main courses

Mushroom Risotto 3. Add » tablespoon of the extra-virgin olive oil active: 40 min; total: 1 hr 20 min to the medium skillet. Add the shiitake mush- 4 servings rooms and season them with salt and pepper. The perfectly creamy texture and the intense Cover and cook over moderate heat until golden, mushroomy flavor of this dish make it a classic about 4 minutes. Uncover the skillet and cook risotto, but the crispy fried enoki-mushroom the shiitake, stirring, until they are browned all topping is unique. over, about 2 minutes longer. Cover the mushrooms ‚ ounce dried porcini mushrooms and set aside. 1 cup hot water 4. In a medium saucepan, bring the chicken stock 3 tablespoons unsalted butter and the reserved porcini soaking liquid to a boil. One 3-ounce package enoki mushrooms Cover the stock and reduce the heat to low. Salt and freshly ground pepper 5. In a large saucepan, heat the remaining 1 table- 1» tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil spoon of olive oil. Add the onion, garlic and thyme » pound shiitake mushrooms, and cook over moderate heat until the onion is stems discarded, caps sliced golden, about 4 minutes. Add the rice and cook, ¥ inch thick stirring, until the grains are thoroughly coated 4» cups chicken stock or with olive oil. Add the wine and simmer until low-sodium broth almost evaporated, about 1 minute. Add enough 1 small onion, finely chopped of the hot stock to cover the rice, then cook, stir- 1 garlic clove, finely chopped ring constantly, until the stock has been ab- 1 teaspoon thyme leaves sorbed. Continue to add the hot stock, 1 cup at 1 cup arborio rice (7 ounces) a time, stirring constantly after each addition, ¥ cup dry white wine until all of the stock has been absorbed and the 2 tablespoons freshly grated risotto is just tender and creamy, about 25 min- Parmesan cheese, plus more utes total. for serving 6. Stir in the reserved porcini and shii­take mush- 1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf rooms, the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter and parsley the 2 tablespoons of Parmesan cheese. Season 1. In a heatproof bowl, cover the porcini with the the risotto with salt and pepper. hot water and let soak until softened, about 7. Return the enoki mushrooms to the medium 20 minutes. Lift the porcini from the soaking skillet and cook over high heat, stirring, until the liquid, then rinse and coarsely chop them. Slowly mushrooms are hot. Spoon the risotto into shal- pour the porcini soaking liquid into a measuring low bowls. Top with the fried enoki mushrooms cup, stopping just before you reach the grit at and the chopped parsley and serve with Parme- the bottom. san cheese. —M.K. 2. Meanwhile, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter make ahead The porcini, shiitake and enoki in a medium skillet. Add the enoki mushrooms mushrooms can be prepared through Step 3 early in an even layer, season with salt and pepper and in the day and kept at room temperature. cook over moderate heat, without stirring, until wine To match the earthiness of this mushroom the enoki are golden brown, about 4 minutes. risotto, try a simple Italian white, such as Anti- Stir the mushrooms and cook until they are nori’s 2004 Castello della Sala Chardonnay, or evenly browned and crisp, about 1 minute longer. for more contrast, an everyday Italian red, such Using a slotted spoon, transfer the enoki mush- as Ruffino’s 2002 Chianti. Either of these wines rooms to a paper towel to drain. would echo the rustic qualities of this dish.

4 our 20 best recipes ever food & wine Macaroni and Cheese with Buttery Crumbs

Macaroni and Cheese with 1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Generously butter Buttery Crumbs a shallow 2-quart baking dish. Melt 3 tablespoons active: 45 min; total: 1 hr 30 min of the butter in a saucepan. Add the flour and stir 6 servings over moderate heat for 2 minutes. Whisk in the Small chunks of cheddar and Colby cheeses are half-and-half and cook, whisking, until thickened, mixed with the macaroni here to give this classic about 3 minutes. Add half of both the cheddar American dish a perfect hit of flavor and a fabu- and the Colby cheeses and stir over low heat until lous gooey texture. melted. Stir in the mustard, nutmeg and cayenne 5 tablespoons unsalted butter and season with salt and pepper. 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2. Cook the macaroni in a large pot of boiling 2» cups half-and-half or whole milk salted water until al dente. Drain the macaroni 1 pound sharp cheddar cheese, cut into very well and return it to the pot. Stir in the cheese »-inch dice sauce and the remaining diced cheese. Spread » pound Colby cheese, cut into the macaroni in the prepared baking dish. »-inch dice 3. In a small glass bowl, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons of butter in a microwave oven. Add Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg the bread crumbs, season with salt and pepper Pinch of cayenne pepper and stir until evenly moistened. Sprinkle the but- Salt and freshly ground pepper tered crumbs over the macaroni and bake for 1 pound elbow macaroni 45 minutes, or until bubbling and golden. Let ‚ cup plain dry bread crumbs stand for 15 minutes before serving. —G.P.

food & wine our 20 best recipes ever 5 main courses

Spaghetti with Bolognese Sauce 1. In a medium, enameled cast-iron casserole, active: 45 min; total: 2 hr 15 min melt the butter in the olive oil. Add the garlic, 6 servings pancetta, carrot, onion and celery and cook over 1 tablespoon unsalted butter moderately low heat until the onion is golden, 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil about 5 minutes. Add the ground beef and pork 4 garlic cloves, minced and cook over moderate heat, breaking up the 3 ounces thinly sliced pancetta, minced meat with a wooden spoon, until it is no longer 1 medium carrot, finely diced pink, about 8 minutes. Stir in the diced mortadella 1 medium onion, finely diced and the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes. 1 celery rib, finely diced Add the white wine and cook, stirring, until the 1 pound coarsely ground beef chuck wine has reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add 1 pound coarsely ground pork the canned tomatoes with their juices, the ¥ pound mortadella, cut into chicken stock, nutmeg and 1 tablespoon each of ¥-inch dice (optional) parsley and basil and bring to a boil over high 1 tablespoon tomato paste heat. Season the sauce with salt and pepper and 1 cup dry white wine simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, un- One 28-ounce can Italian peeled til it is very thick, about 1» hours. Keep the sauce tomatoes, chopped, juices reserved warm while you cook the spaghetti. 1» cups chicken or beef stock 2. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the or low-sodium broth spaghetti until al dente. Drain the spaghetti and ¥ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg return it to the pot. 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley 3. Stir the cream and the remaining 2 table- 2 tablespoons chopped basil spoons of parsley and 1 tablespoon of basil into Salt and freshly ground pepper the meat sauce. Season the sauce with salt and 1 pound spaghetti pepper, then add 2 cups to the spaghetti and ¥ cup heavy cream toss. Transfer the spaghetti to a large bowl, top Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for serving with the remaining sauce and serve. Pass the Parmesan cheese at the table. —M.K. make ahead The Bolognese sauce can be re- frigerated for up to 5 days.

Grilled Pizzas with Prosciutto active: 1 hr 15 min; total: 3 hr 30 min makes six 8-inch pizzas Johanne Killeen and George Germon pioneered grilled pizzas at Al Forno, their restaurant in Providence, Rhode Island. The grilled crust be- comes wonderfully crisp and charred, almost as if it were baked in a wood-fired oven. The pizza dough recipe here is simple, with a rich wheat flavor, but store-bought pizza dough makes a fine substitute; you’ll need about 1» pounds. Spaghetti with Bolognese Sauce Make sure you have all the topping ingredients assembled grill-side before starting.

6 our 20 best recipes ever food & wine pizza dough 6. Divide the pizza dough into 6 equal pieces; 1 envelope active dry yeast work with 1 piece at a time and keep the rest 1 cup warm water covered with a towel. On 3 lightly oiled baking Pinch of sugar sheets, flatten and stretch the dough with your

2¥ teaspoons kosher salt hands to form six 8-inch rounds about 1/16 inch 3 tablespoons whole wheat flour thick; do not make a lip and don’t stretch the Extra-virgin olive oil dough so thinly that it tears. Brush the dough 2» to 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour rounds with olive oil. pizza toppings 7. Working in batches, gently drape the pizza » pound Fontina cheese, shredded dough over the hot grill, oiled sides down, and » cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cook until it puffs slightly, the underside firms up 2 teaspoons minced garlic and grill marks appear, 1 minute. Rotate the dough Two 14-ounce cans chopped Italian once and cook for 30 seconds. tomatoes, drained 8. Brush the tops of the pizza rounds with olive » cup basil leaves, cut into thin ribbons oil and flip them over using tongs. Scatter one- 12 paper-thin slices prosciutto di Parma, sixth of the garlic and cheese over each pizza, torn into large pieces followed by 3 heaping tablespoons of chopped 1. make the pizza dough: In a large bowl, mix tomatoes. Then drizzle each pizza with » table- the yeast with the water and sugar and let stand spoon of olive oil. until foamy, about 5 minutes. Stir in the salt, 9. Slide the pizzas to the side so they’re not directly whole wheat flour and 1 tablespoon of olive oil. over the hot coals. Using tongs, rotate the pizzas Gradually add 2 cups of the all-purpose flour, frequently, checking often to make sure that the stirring with a wooden spoon until the dough is undersides are not charring. The pizzas are done fairly stiff. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured when the cheese is melted and the tomatoes are work surface and knead, gradually adding as heated through, 3 to 4 minutes. Scatter one-sixth much of the remaining all-purpose flour as nec- of the basil and prosciutto over each pizza and essary, until the dough is smooth, elastic and no serve hot off the grill. longer tacky, 5 to 6 minutes. 2. Transfer the pizza dough to a lightly oiled bowl and brush the surface with olive oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the pizza dough rise in a warm, draft-free place until it doubles in bulk, 1» to 2 hours. 3. Punch down the dough and knead it lightly, then return it to the bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough rise again until it has doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes. Punch down the dough again and use it at once, or refrigerate and assemble the pizzas later. 4. Light a grill, preferably using hardwood char- coal. Set the grate 4 inches above the coals. 5. assemble the pizzas: In a medium bowl, toss the Fontina cheese with the Pecorino Grilled Pizzas with Prosciutto Romano cheese until combined.

food & wine our 20 best recipes ever 7 main courses

Jamaican Jerk Chicken Fried Chicken with Tomato Gravy active: 30 min; total: 9 hr active: 1 hr; total: 9 hr 30 min 8 servings 4 servings This recipe makes the best jerk chicken we’ve For the ultimate crispy fried chicken recipe, we ever tasted. It’s fragrant, fiery hot and smoky all turned to Scott Peacock, the chef at Watershed at once. We first published this recipe, which is in Decatur, Georgia, and co-author, with Edna from our former colleague Paul Chung, in 1995. Lewis, of The Gift of Southern Cooking. Before An adventurous self-taught cook, Paul grew up frying, the chicken is deliciously tenderized by a in Jamaica and has sampled jerk from just about nice long soak in tangy buttermilk. This recipe, every corner of the island. For maximum flavor, which was originally published in F&W in March let the chicken marinate overnight. 2000, makes a generous amount of gravy; serve 1 medium onion, chopped any leftovers with homemade biscuits. 3 medium scallions, chopped » cup kosher salt 2 Scotch bonnet chiles, chopped 2 quarts cold water 2 garlic cloves, chopped One 3»-pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces 1 tablespoon five-spice powder 3 cups buttermilk 1 tablespoon allspice berries, 1» cups all-purpose flour coarsely ground ¥ cup cornstarch 1 tablespoon coarsely 2 tablespoons potato starch (optional) ground pepper Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper 1 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled 1 pound lard or solid vegetable 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg shortening, for frying 1 teaspoon salt 1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter » cup soy sauce ¥ pound sliced bacon 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 small onion, finely chopped Two 3»- to 4-pound chickens, (about » cup) quartered 1 garlic clove, minced 1. In a food processor, combine the chopped 4 cups drained canned diced tomatoes onion, scallions, chiles and garlic with the five- (from three 14-ounce cans) spice powder, allspice berries, pepper, thyme, 2 teaspoons dried thyme grated nutmeg and salt and process to a coarse 2 cups heavy cream paste. With the machine on, add the soy sauce 1» cups whole milk and vegetable oil in a slow, steady stream. Pour 1. In a large bowl, dissolve the salt in the cold the jerk marinade into a large, shallow dish, then water. Add the chicken pieces, cover and refrig- add the chicken quarters and turn to coat. Cover erate for 4 hours. Drain the chicken pieces and the chicken tightly and refrigerate overnight. Let rinse. Put the chicken in a large bowl, add the the chicken return to room temperature before buttermilk and turn the pieces to coat. Cover and proceeding. refrigerate for 4 hours. 2. Light a grill. Drain the marinated chicken quar- 2. In a large, sturdy plastic bag, combine the flour, ters and grill over a medium-hot fire, turning cornstarch, potato starch, 1» teaspoons of sea occasionally, until the pieces are well browned salt and » teaspoon of pepper. Set aside » cup and cooked through, 35 to 40 minutes. (Cover of the flour mixture for the gravy. Lift the chicken the grill for a smokier flavor.) Transfer the jerk out of the buttermilk, wipe off any excess and chicken to a platter and serve. set the pieces on a wire rack to dry for 5 minutes.

8 our 20 best recipes ever food & wine Add the chicken to the flour mixture in the bag Herb-Roasted Chicken a few pieces at a time and shake to coat. Dry the active: 15 min; total: 1 hr 20 min rack. Shake any excess flour off the chicken and 4 to 6 servings return the chicken to the rack. More roast chicken recipes have made their way 3. Meanwhile, in a large cast-iron skillet, melt the through the F&W Test Kitchen over the years than lard in the butter. Over moderate heat, add the we can count, but this one from chef-owner Jerry bacon and cook until crisp, about 5 minutes; Traunfeld of The Herbfarm near Seattle, which reserve the bacon for another use. Add the was first published in F&W in July 1999, is mem- chicken pieces, in batches if necessary, and cook orable because of its garlicky-herb flavor and over moderate heat, turning, until golden, crisp delicious pan juices. Bruising fresh bay leaves and cooked through, about 30 minutes. Lower by holding both ends and twisting in opposite the heat if necessary. Set the chicken pieces on directions makes them more potent. If fresh bay a clean wire rack to drain. leaves are unavailable, use fresh sprigs of thyme 4. Carefully transfer ¥ cup of the chicken cook- or marjoram. ing fat to a large saucepan. Add the onion and Two 3-pound chickens, preferably free-range garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring 24 fresh bay leaves, bruised, plus bay occasionally, until the onion is golden, about branches for garnish 5 minutes. Add the reserved » cup of seasoned 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced flour and cook, whisking, for 2 minutes. Add the 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil tomatoes and thyme and stir constantly until Salt and freshly ground pepper blended. Whisk in the cream and milk and season 1. Preheat the oven to 450°. Bend back the with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, chicken-wing tips and tuck them under the first until the gravy is thickened and no floury taste wing joints. Using your fingertips, carefully loosen remains, about 10 minutes. the chicken skin without tearing it, working your 5. Transfer the fried chicken to a platter. Pour hand under the skin all the way up the breast the tomato gravy into a gravy boat and serve and down into the thighs. with the chicken. 2. Tuck 2 bay leaves in the cavity of each bird. Tuck the remaining leaves under the loosened skin: 2 on each thigh and 3 on each side of each breast. Distribute the garlic evenly under the skin. Tie the legs together with kitchen string. 3. Set the chickens in a large, shallow roasting pan. Rub them all over with the olive oil and sea- son generously with salt and pepper. Roast the chickens for 55 to 65 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until the chickens are nicely browned and the juices run clear when an inner thigh is pierced. 4. Remove the roasted chickens from the oven and let them stand in a warm place for 10 minutes. Transfer the chickens to a platter and garnish with the bay branches. Be sure to remove and Fried Chicken discard the bay leaves from under the skin before eating the chickens.

food & wine our 20 best recipes ever 9 main courses

Chicken Tikka Masala 2. prepare the chicken: Using a sharp knife, active: 45 min; total: 9 hr 30 min make a few shallow slashes in each piece of 4 servings chicken. Add the chicken to the marinade and This classic masala is often the first dish many turn to coat. Refrigerate overnight. people try when exploring Indian food. We love 3. Preheat the broiler and position a rack about Grace Parisi’s version because it’s easy to prepare 8 inches from the heat. Remove the chicken from and its slightly spicy tomato cream sauce is totally the marinade; scrape off as much of the marinade addictive. The chicken thighs need to marinate as possible. Season the chicken with salt and overnight, so plan accordingly. pepper and arrange the pieces on a baking sheet. masala marinade Broil the chicken, turning once or twice, until it 1 cup plain low-fat yogurt is just cooked through and browned in spots, 2 garlic cloves, minced about 12 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a cut- 1 tablespoon finely grated ting board and cut into 2-inch pieces. fresh ginger 4. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat 1 teaspoon 1» teaspoons ground cumin of the oil. Add the blanched almonds and cook 1» teaspoons ground coriander over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until ¥ teaspoon ground cardamom golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer the almonds ¥ teaspoon cayenne pepper to a plate and let cool completely. In a food pro- ¥ teaspoon ground turmeric cessor, pulse the almonds until finely ground. Salt and freshly ground pepper 5. In a large, enameled cast-iron casserole, heat chicken the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil until shim- 2» pounds skinless, boneless mering. Add the onion, garlic and fresh ginger chicken thighs, fat trimmed and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasion- Salt and freshly ground pepper ally, until the onion is tender and golden, about 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon 8 minutes. Add the garam masala, chile powder vegetable oil and cayenne and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add ¥ cup blanched whole almonds the tomatoes with their juices and the sugar and 1 large onion, finely chopped season the sauce with salt and pepper. Cover 2 garlic cloves, minced partially and cook the tomato sauce over moder- 1 teaspoon minced ate heat, stirring occasionally, until it is slightly fresh ginger thickened, about 20 minutes. Add the cream and 1» tablespoons garam masala ground almonds and cook the sauce over low 1» teaspoons pure chile powder heat, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes longer. » teaspoon cayenne pepper Stir in the chicken pieces and simmer gently One 35-ounce can peeled tomatoes, finely for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Transfer the chopped, juices reserved chicken tikka to a bowl and serve. Pinch of sugar variation The masala marinade and the tomato 1 cup heavy cream sauce are also delicious cooked with shrimp, lamb 1. prepare the masala marinade: In a large and vegetables. glass or stainless steel bowl, combine the low-fat serve with Steamed basmati rice, rice pilaf or yogurt with the minced garlic, fresh ginger and warm nan. ground cumin, coriander, cardamom, cayenne make ahead The Chicken Tikka Masala can be and turmeric; mix well. Season the masala mar- refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat the chicken inade with salt and pepper. gently before serving.

10 our 20 best recipes ever food & wine Beef Stew 2. Add the minced garlic and chopped onion to active: 1 hr; total: 11 hr the casserole and cook over low heat, stirring 6 servings occasionally, until they are softened, about This beef stew gives you everything you want in 8 minutes. Return the meat and any accumulated comfort food—it’s hearty and satisfying—but juices to the casserole. Add the red wine and bring what makes it stand out is its subtle, sophisti- to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for cated use of coriander and fenugreek seeds. The 2 minutes. Add the thyme sprigs, tomatoes, car- cooked meat needs to be refrigerated overnight, rots, bay leaf, spice bag and stock to the cas- so plan accordingly. serole and bring to a boil. Cover the casserole 3» pounds well-marbled beef chuck, partially and simmer over low heat until the meat trimmed of excess fat and cut into is tender, about 1» hours. Let cool, then refriger- 2-inch pieces ate the beef stew overnight. Salt and freshly ground pepper 3. Cover the stew and rewarm it over low heat. 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large skillet. Add 6 garlic cloves, minced the quartered mushrooms, season with salt and 1 large Spanish onion, chopped pepper and cook over moderately low heat until 2 cups soft, dry red wine, they release their liquid, about 6 minutes. Pour such as Merlot 2 tablespoons of the mushroom liquid into a small 4 thyme sprigs bowl and let cool. Cook the mushrooms over 4 plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until they 4 medium carrots, cut into are browned, about 6 minutes longer. Add the 1-inch pieces mushrooms to the stew. 1 bay leaf 4. Return the large skillet to moderate heat. Add 1 teaspoon coriander seeds and the water and turnips and season with salt. Cover ¥ teaspoon fenugreek seeds, tightly and cook until the turnips are just fork- tied in cheesecloth tender, about 5 minutes. Add the cooked turnips 1 quart beef stock or to the beef stew. Discard the thyme sprigs, bay low-sodium broth leaf and spice bag. 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 5. Whisk the flour into the reserved mushroom 1 pound white mushrooms, liquid to form a paste. When the stew comes to quartered a simmer, spoon out » cup of the hot sauce and 1 cup water stir it into the paste until blended. Stir the paste 1 pound turnips, peeled and cut into the stew and bring to a boil. Simmer the beef into 1-inch dice stew over moderate heat, stirring frequently, 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour until the sauce thickens, about 2 minutes. Season 2 tablespoons chopped the stew with salt and pepper, stir in the parsley flat-leaf parsley and serve. —M.K. 1. Season the meat with salt and pepper. In a serve with Buttered noodles. large, enameled cast-iron casserole, heat 1 table- make ahead The stew can be refrigerated for spoon of the oil until shimmering. Add half of the up to 2 days. Bring the stew to room temperature beef and cook over moderately high heat until and reheat gently before serving. the meat is browned all over, about 12 minutes. wine This comforting beef stew calls for a hearty Transfer the meat to a large, shallow bowl. Repeat red wine, such as the 2002 Yangarra McLaren with the remaining oil and meat. Vale Old Vine Grenache from Australia.

food & wine our 20 best recipes ever 11 main courses

Tofu with Spicy Meat Sauce Mrs. Duvall’s Pan-Fried total: 25 min Crab Cakes 4 servings total: 35 min This simple, updated version of the Sichuan classic 4 servings ma po tofu, from cookbook author Joyce Jue, Actor Robert Duvall grew up in Annapolis, Mary- appeared in F&W in March 2002. It’s the most land, where crab is required eating. When he delicious tofu recipe we’ve come across and even owned the Rail Stop in The Plains, Virginia, Duvall converts tofu-phobes. passed on his mother’s crab cake recipe to chef ‚ cup small tree ear mushrooms Tom Kee and gave him permission to update it. 2 tablespoons soy sauce But Kee thought it was perfect just as it was and 1 tablespoon dry sherry or rice wine so did we when we first published it in March 1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil 2000. These crab cakes are small, so they have 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon cornstarch the ideal ratio of crisp coating to creamy crab. » pound ground pork ¥ cup mayonnaise 1» tablespoons water ¥ cup minced onion 1» tablespoons vegetable oil 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 1 tablespoon Chinese chili-bean sauce » teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 2 garlic cloves, minced » teaspoon dry mustard 2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger ¥ teaspoon salt 6 fresh water chestnuts, peeled and chopped ¥ teaspoon cayenne pepper 4 scallions, white and light green parts 1 pound lump crabmeat, only, chopped picked over ‹ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 1 cup finely crushed soda crackers » teaspoon sugar 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 pound firm tofu, drained and ¥ cup vegetable oil cut into »-inch dice Lemon wedges, for serving ‚ cup chicken stock or low-sodium broth 1. In a medium bowl, combine the mayonnaise, » cup frozen baby peas, thawed minced onion, eggs, Worcestershire sauce, dry 1. In a bowl, cover the tree ears with water; let mustard, salt and cayenne. Fold the crabmeat soak for 15 minutes. Drain and coarsely chop. into the mayonnaise and egg mixture, followed 2. In a medium bowl, mix 1 tablespoon of the soy by ¥ cup of the cracker crumbs. Shape the crab- sauce with the sherry, sesame oil and 1 teaspoon meat mixture into 16 cakes about 1 inch thick. of the cornstarch. Stir in the pork. In a small bowl, Coat the crab cakes with the remaining ‚ cup mix the remaining cornstarch with the water. of cracker crumbs and transfer the cakes to a 3. In a wok, heat the vegetable oil until smoking. baking sheet lined with wax paper. Add the chili-bean sauce, garlic and ginger and 2. In a large skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of the but- cook over high heat for 20 seconds. Add the water ter in 2 tablespoons of the oil. When the foam chestnuts and tree ears and stir-fry for 15 seconds. subsides, add half of the crab cakes and cook Add the pork and stir-fry for 2 minutes, breaking over moderate heat until golden and crisp, 2 to up any clumps. Stir in the scallions, pepper and 3 minutes per side. Drain the crab cakes on paper sugar. Gently stir in the tofu, chicken stock, peas towels and keep them warm in a low oven. Cook and the remaining soy sauce and bring to a boil. the remaining crab cakes in the remaining 1 table- Add the cornstarch slurry and stir until the sauce spoon of butter and 2 tablespoons of oil. Serve thickens. Transfer to a platter and serve. the crab cakes with lemon wedges.

12 our 20 best recipes ever food & wine desserts

Apricot-Berry Crumble

Apricot-Berry Crumble 1. Preheat the oven to 375°. Position a rack in active: 25 min; total: 1 hr 20 min the bottom third of the oven. Spread the apricots 8 servings in a shallow 2»-quart ceramic or glass baking Adapted from Greg Patent’s definitiveBaking in dish, such as a 10-inch round dish. America, this homey fruit dessert is the best of 2. In a food processor, grind the almonds with the crumbles we’ve tested. ¥ cup of the brown sugar until fine. Add the lemon 2 pounds firm, ripe apricots, zest and process the mixture for 5 to 10 seconds halved and pitted longer. Sprinkle the sugar mixture over the apri- 8 whole almonds cots and toss. Scatter the raspberries and blue- 1 cup (packed) light brown sugar berries over the apricots and drizzle with the Finely grated zest of 1 lemon lemon juice. 1» cups raspberries 3. In the food processor, combine the flour, rolled 1» cups blueberries oats, cinnamon, salt and the remaining ‚ cup of 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice brown sugar and process for 10 seconds. Add 1 cup all-purpose flour the butter and pulse just until the mixture ‚ cup old-fashioned or quick-cooking re­sembles coarse crumbs. Scatter the topping rolled oats (not instant) evenly over the fruit and bake the fruit for 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 55 minutes, or until the topping is browned and ¥ teaspoon salt the filling is bubbling. Let the Apricot-Berry 1 stick plus 2 tablespoons cold unsalted Crumble cool on a wire rack and serve warm or butter, cut into tablespoons at room temperature.

food & wine our 20 best recipes ever 13 desserts

Nutty Chocolate Chip Cookies Molten Chocolate Cakes total: 45 min active: 20 min; total: 35 min makes about 3½ dozen cookies 4 servings Should a chocolate chip cookie be chewy or It seems as though every restaurant in America crispy? These cookies, with their crisp, crinkly offers a version of these amazing cakes created tops and chewy centers, are both. We also give by master chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. But guidelines for anyone who demands a perfectly Vongerichten’s supremely rich and chocolaty chewy or completely crisp version. original, which appeared in F&W in July 1999, is 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons in a class by itself. all-purpose flour 1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, plus 1 teaspoon baking soda more for buttering ½ teaspoon salt 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, 1½ sticks (6 ounces) unsalted preferably Valrhona, chopped butter, softened 2 large eggs 1 cup (packed) light brown sugar 2 large egg yolks ½ cup granulated sugar ¥ cup sugar 2 large eggs, at room temperature Pinch of salt 1½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, 12 ounces semisweet chocolate chips plus more for dusting (2 cups) 1. Preheat the oven to 450°. Butter and flourfour 1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts 6-ounce ramekins, tapping out the excess. In a or pecans, lightly toasted double boiler set over simmering water, melt the (optional) butter with the bittersweet chocolate. 1. Preheat the oven to 350° and position racks 2. In a medium bowl, using a handheld electric in the middle and lower third of the oven. In a mixer, beat the whole eggs with the egg yolks, medium bowl, whisk the flour with the baking sugar and salt at high speed until the mixture is soda and salt. pale and thickened. 2. In a large bowl, using a handheld electric mixer, beat the butter at medium speed until creamy. Add the brown sugar and granulated sugar and beat until light and fluffy. Add the eggs and vanilla and beat until smooth. Beat in the dry ingredients at low speed. With a wooden spoon, stir in the chocolate chips and walnuts. 3. Scoop tablespoons of the cookie dough onto 2 large baking sheets, leaving at least 1» inches between the cookies. Bake for about 11 minutes for soft and chewy cookies, 13 minutes for chewy cookies or 16 minutes for crisp cookies. Let the cookies cool on the baking sheets for 2 minutes before transferring them to wire racks. —G.P. make ahead The cookies can be stored in an airtight container between sheets of wax paper Molten Chocolate Cake for up to 2 days.

14 our 20 best recipes ever food & wine 3. Whisk the melted chocolate and butter until 4 large Golden Delicious apples— blended. Quickly fold the chocolate mixture and peeled, cored and cut into the 2 tablespoons of flour into the egg mixture. ¥-inch-thick slices Spoon the cake batter into the prepared ramekins 2 tablespoons melted and strained and set them on a baking sheet. Bake for 12 min- apricot preserves utes, or until the sides of the chocolate cakes 1. Preheat the oven to 400°. In a food processor, are firm but the centers are still soft. pulse 1» cups of the flour with the salt. Add the 4. Let the chocolate cakes cool for 1 minute, then pieces of cold butter and process just until the run a knife around the edge of each cake. To re- butter is the size of peas, about 5 seconds. move the cakes from the ramekins, cover them, Sprinkle the ice water over the flour and process 1 at a time, with an inverted dessert plate and just until it is evenly moistened, about 5 seconds. turn the ramekins over onto the plates. Let the Transfer the tart dough to a lightly floured work cakes stand that way for a few seconds before surface and knead 2 or 3 times, just until it comes unmolding them. Serve the molten chocolate together. Pat the dough into a disk. Reflour the cakes while they are still warm. work surface and roll out the dough to a 16- to wine Chocolate is too intense and bitter for many 17-inch round about ¥ inch thick. sweet wines, but not for port. Try a ruby port, such 2. Line a large, flat baking sheet with parchment as the nonvintage Sandeman Founder’s Reserve paper. Carefully roll the dough around the rolling or the nonvintage Fonseca Bin No. 27, with this pin, then unroll the dough onto the prepared bak- delicious classic dessert. ing sheet. 3. In a small bowl, combine 2 tablespoons of the Rustic Apple Tart sugar with the remaining 1 tablespoon of flour active: 45 min; total: 2 hr and sprinkle the mixture over the dough. Arrange 6 servings the apple slices on the dough in overlapping This is the flakiest, easiest, best piecrust we’ve concentric circles to within 3 inches of the edge. ever tested. Master chef Jacques Pépin has cre- Fold the edges of the dough over the sliced apples ated a virtually fail-safe recipe that is completely in a free-form fashion. Brush the apples with the hassle-free: You don’t even need to chill the dough melted butter and sprinkle them with the remain- before you roll it out. F&W’s Grace Parisi tops ing 1» tablespoons of sugar. Refrigerate the the dough with apples, but you can use almost unbaked tart until it is slightly chilled, at least any firm fruit in season, such as pears, peaches, 10 minutes. apricots, plums or rhubarb. If using especially 4. Bake the tart in the center of the oven for about juicy fruit, add 1 tablespoon of ground nuts to 1 hour, or until the apples are tender and golden the 1 tablespoon of flour and 2 tablespoons of and the crust is deep golden and cooked through. sugar that are sprinkled over the pastry before Slide the apple tart on its parchment paper onto the fruit is added to the tart. a wire rack. Brush the apples with the melted 1» cups plus 1 tablespoon apricot preserves. Let the tart cool slightly before all-purpose flour serving. Pinch of salt serve with Vanilla or cinnamon ice cream. 1» sticks cold unsalted butter, cut into make ahead The disk of tart dough can be »-inch pieces, plus 2 tablespoons refrigerated for 1 day or frozen for 1 month. The melted butter baked apple tart can be stored overnight at room ¬ cup ice water temperature. Reheat the tart in a 325° oven 3» tablespoons sugar before serving.

food & wine our 20 best recipes ever 15 desserts

Lemon Meringue Pie 3. Set the pie shell on a baking sheet and bake active: 35 min; total: 5 hr for 10 minutes, or until the edge has set. Carefully makes one 9-inch pie remove the foil and weights and bake the shell Former F&W Test Kitchen Director Jim Fobel for 15 minutes longer, or until the bottom is firm published this pie recipe in the magazine in 1984. and light golden; tap the bottom with a spoon if The pie’s incredibly flaky crust and ultra-tangy it bubbles up. If the crust begins to brown too lemon-curd filling make it one of our all-time quickly, loosely cover the edge with foil. Transfer favorite classic recipes. to a wire rack and let cool. pastry 4. make the filling: Meanwhile, in a medium 1¬ cups all-purpose flour saucepan, combine 1 cup of the sugar with the » teaspoon salt cornstarch, ¥ teaspoon of the salt, the egg yolks 4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, and the lemon juice. Whisk in the cold water and thinly sliced cook the mixture over moderate heat, whisking 4 tablespoons cold lard or solid constantly, until it comes to a boil. Boil the mix- vegetable shortening ture, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Remove 3 tablespoons ice water the mixture from the heat and add the lemon filling zest and butter, stirring until the butter is melted. 1» cups sugar Pour the lemon-curd filling into the baked and ¥ cup plus 1 tablespoon cornstarch cooled pie shell, cover with wax paper and let cool » teaspoon salt to room temperature. 4 large eggs, separated 5. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350°. Position ‚ cup fresh lemon juice a rack in the upper third of the oven. In a large 2 cups cold water stainless steel bowl, beat the egg whites with the 1» teaspoons finely grated remaining ¥ teaspoon of salt at high speed un- lemon zest til soft peaks form. Gradually add the remaining 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, » cup of sugar and beat the egg whites until they cut into tablespoons are stiff and glossy peaks have formed. 1. make the pastry: In a large bowl, combine 6. Remove the wax paper from the lemon filling. the all-purpose flour with the salt. Using a pastry Scrape the meringue onto the pie and gently blender or 2 knives, cut the butter and lard into spread it over the filling all the way to the crimped the flour until the mixture resembles coarse meal. edge of the piecrust. Using the back of a spoon, Add the ice water as you toss the mixture with a make decorative swirls in the meringue. fork. Gather the dough together into a ball and 7. Bake the lemon pie for about 7 minutes, or knead it 2 or 3 times, until evenly moistened. Pat until the meringue is golden brown. Transfer the the pastry dough into a 6-inch disk, then wrap pie to a wire rack and let it cool to room tem- the pastry in plastic and refrigerate until chilled, perature, then refrigerate the pie until it is chilled at least 1 hour. and set, at least 3 hours. Cut the Lemon Meringue 2. Preheat the oven to 425°. On a lightly floured Pie with a sharp knife that has been dipped into work surface, roll out the chilled pastry into a hot water and serve. 12-inch round, „ inch thick. Fit the pastry into a make ahead The recipe can be made through 9-inch glass pie plate and trim the overhang to Step 4 and refrigerated overnight. Let the filling » inch; fold the overhang under and crimp it come to room temperature, then top the pie with decoratively. Line the uncooked pie shell with the meringue and bake. Let the Lemon Meringue foil and fill it with pie weights. pie cool before serving.

16 our 20 best recipes ever food & wine OTHER TERRIFIC BOOKS FROM FOOD & WINE

Food & Wine Annual Cookbook Every delicious recipe from an entire year of Food & Wine magazine in one fabulous book.

Best of the Best The best recipes from the best cookbooks of the year. Top picks from hundreds of recipes tested in F&W’s kitchens.

F&W’s Wine Guide The ultimate wine guide. Over 1,000 wines reviewed in a pocket-size book.

F&W’s Cocktail Guide Our indispensable guide offers more than 100 signature drinks from the country’s hottest restaurants, bars and lounges.

To order, call 800-284-4145 or log on to foodandwine.com.

Photographs William Meppem

Prop Stylists Joe Maer: Cover Sacha Dunn: Interior

Food Stylist Alison Attenborough