sign in sign up
<<
Home , Bouquet garni, Butterflying, Chiffonade, Curdling, Fregula, Julienning

THE MODERN DICTIONARY

INGREDIENTS Definitions and many substitutions for unfamiliar THE ingredients. MODERN TERMS FOOD Do you know what the word flameproof refers to, or frenched? DICTIONARY The answers are in these pages.

What’s acidulated water? What’s the difference between and ? What’s sansho? In this EQUIPMENT booklet are definitions for You’ll find clear descriptions some essential cooking terms that of equipment, from a bain-marie will smooth your way in the to an immersion blender. kitchen—keep it close at hand. Consider this your cooking tip sheet and food dictionary in one. TECHNIQUES What’s the difference between and ? You’ll learn the whys and hows for all kinds of cooking methods here. A B C a b

Achiote [ah-chee-OH-tay] The Bain-marie [Banh- slightly musky-flavored, rusty MARIE], or water bath red seed of the tree, A container, usually a available whole or ground. In pan or deep dish, that its and powder form, it is is partially filled with water. called annatto and is used in Delicate , like , recipes to add an orange color. are placed in the water bath in their baking dishes during Acidulated water Water to cooking; the surrounding which a mild acid, like lemon water cushions them from the juice or vinegar, has been oven’s heat. added. Foods are immersed in it to prevent them from turning Baking stone or pizza brown. To make acidulated stone A tempered ceramic Artisanal water, squeeze half a lemon slab the size of a baking sheet into a medium bowl of water. or pizza pan. Preheated on the bottom of the oven, the stone Italian for “to the distributes an intense, dry heat, tooth.” Refers to the perfect converting a home oven into Cheese (from goat’s- texture, where has a virtual hearth. Breads and sheep’s- or cow’s- lost its raw crunch yet hasn’t pizzas baked directly on , usually raw) that become gummy. the stone emerge with tender is made in small centers and crisp crusts. batches by skilled Ancho chile The dried artisans using poblano chile. Generally three Basmati rice A fragrant to four inches long with a deep long-grain rice often used in traditional techniques reddish-brown color. It has Indian . and recipes. Interest a rich, slightly fruity flavor that in such has ranges from mild to pungent. Basting Brushing or grown rapidly in ladling a liquid over fish, the United States, Annatto See Achiote poultry or to keep it leading to increased moist while cooking. availability of a Arrowroot A starchy thickener that’s like powerful Blanching food wide selection of cornstarch. Choose arrowroot briefly, anywhere from a few local and European over cornstarch when planning seconds to a minute or two. varieties. to freeze food—it won’t break Blanching may be used to set down. In recipes, substitute color, loosen skin, partially cornstarch or tapioca . cook or soften a bitter edge.

2 the modern cook’s dictionary food & wine Blind baking Cooking a pie Brine Heavily salted water Cassis Black currants, used or other pastry crust, either (generally one cup per to make crème de cassis, partially or fully, before adding each gallon of water) used to a sweet liqueur, as well as a the filling. Completely line the preserve food or flavor it. syrup that is popular for uncooked crust with aluminum flavoring desserts. foil or parchment paper, then Bruschetta [broo-SKET-ta] fill it with rice, dried beans Italian for toasted or grilled Cazuela Traditional or pie weights to keep it from bread slices, often brushed earthenware baking dishes from shrinking as it bakes. with olive oil and rubbed with Spain. Typically shallow, . Use of the term has cazuelas have a clear glaze on Bonito flakes The dried expanded in recent years to the inside and unglazed flakes of a dark, full-flavored include toppings of other exteriors. They can be used over tuna, used as a ingredients as well. a direct flame to brown food, and in the traditional Japanese then put in the oven for baking. dashi, and Bulgur A precooked form of sometimes as a . whole wheat that is crushed Chanterelles Mushrooms to three different grinds. with a golden color and a [boo-KAY The finest grind is the main funnel-shaped cap. The whole gar-NEE] A little clutch ingredient in tabbouleh. mushroom is edible and is of aromatics (usually , prized for its exquisite flavor and ) that are Splitting a piece and firm texture when cooked. tied together and tossed into of meat or fish almost through, Chanterelles are available stocks, and then opening it up to increase both wild and cultivated. . Wrap the ingredients surface area and even it out. in kitchen string or cheesecloth, Chicken tender The strip or stuff in a ball and hang of meat between the bone and from the edge of the pot. the main section of chicken c breast meat. The tender Braising Cooking food gently separates easily from the in a small amount of liquid over bone and breast. Some low heat for a lengthy period of Caramelizing Cooking sugar recipes will instruct you to time in order to tenderize it until it turns golden brown. remove the tender for a and develop flavor. The food is Meat, vegetables and fruits are boneless breast of a more usually browned beforehand. said to caramelize when they uniform thickness. Others may are cooked until their natural call specifically for tenders. Bread crumbs Fresh or dry sugars are released, causing crumbs are used for breadings, them to brown on the surface. Fine strips of fillers and thickeners. To make greens or leafy , often fresh crumbs, tear up stale Cardoon A Mediterranean used as a garnish. Making a bread and whir briefly in a food vegetable that looks like a large chiffonade is easier if you processor. To make dry crumbs, bunch of . Cardoons stack your ingredients before dry sliced or broken bread in a are related to artichokes; the slicing them. If you’re using warm oven and then pulverize gray-green ribs are eaten leaves, like , roll the stacks it in a food processor. boiled, braised, baked or fried. lengthwise before slicing.

food & wine the modern cook’s dictionary 3 C D

Chipotle [chee-POAT- Clarifying Clearing cloudy Court bouillon A briefly lay] chile (photo below) liquids (the term is generally cooked, aromatic A dried, smoked jalapeño used in reference to consommés liquid that’s used most often chile with wrinkled, dark- and stocks). A common with fish and sometimes with brown skin and a smoky, method is to stir beaten egg vegetables. It usually consists sweet, almost chocolaty whites and crushed up egg of water, an acid (such as flavor. are shells into the liquid and then wine or vinegar), , , available dried, pickled or simmer them briefly as they a bouquet garni and salt. canned in adobo draw out impurities. The liquid (a paste made of ground is then strained through a Crème brûlée French for chiles, , herbs and cloth-lined sieve. “burned cream.” A chilled vinegar that is often used dessert consisting of a to season meat). rich, creamy base Pure ground with a crispy caramelized chiles sugar topping. are also available. The Crème fraîche [krem chiles are FRESH] A cultured cream from generally added France. As the cream matures, it to stews and thickens and develops a nutty, . very slightly sour, delicious flavor. It is richer and thicker Chorizo A type of pork than sour cream, and it doesn’t commonly used in curdle, even when boiled. In Latin cooking. Chorizo ranges France, it’s used much more in texture from soft to very frequently in sauces than firm. Generally, Mexican heavy cream, the nearest chorizo is made with fresh pork Coconut milk A thick liquid readily available substitute. To and seasoned with chiles and made by steeping grated make your own crème fraîche, vinegar, while Spanish chorizo coconut in hot water. Available add 2 tablespoons of is made with smoked pork, in cans or frozen, it is used in buttermilk to 1 cup of cream. and garlic. many savory and sweet Asian Heat the mixture to lukewarm, dishes. (It is not the liquid then let it stand at room Clarified butter See also found in the center of coconuts, temperature for about 10 Ghee. Butter that’s been nor is it sweetened “cream of hours, or until thickened. melted, then skimmed to coconut,” which is used mainly remove the foam on the for desserts and mixed drinks.) Crimping Pressing or surface. Pour off the liquid To make it, combine equal pinching the edge of a piecrust butter, stopping when you get parts water and shredded fresh together with your fingers to to the milky part. Clarified or dried coconut and simmer shape it into a wavy, decorative butter can be used for until foamy. Strain through ridge. For a double-crusted pie, cooking at high temperatures; cheesecloth, squeezing as the ridge is not only pretty but it is less likely to scorch than much of the liquid as possible also serves to keep the filling regular butter. from the coconut meat. from seeping out.

4 the modern cook’s dictionary food & wine Crostini Small slices of Deglazing Adding a liquid toasted bread, usually topped (such as wine, stock or water) and served as canapés. to the tasty browned drippings left behind in a pan after Croûtes [kroot] Slices of roasting or sautéing. As the bread that have been toasted liquid boils, the pan is scraped or sautéed. Croûtes vary in size with a wooden spoon to and thickness. dissolve the bits. An important step in making sauce or . Forming by overheating. The solid part of Demiglace [DEMMY-glahss] a mixture will separate into A richly flavored, thick glaze clumps when eggs, sour cream made by cooking stock for and other ingredients that hours until it’s syrupy. Debearding require gentle heat to remain creamy get too hot. Deveining Cutting or pulling Pulling off the strong, out the intestinal tract that byssal threads, or runs along the curved back of beards, that mussels tails and . use to attach them- d Dragées [drah-GHAY] selves to rocks, ropes Tiny ball-shaped hard candies, and each other. often silver or gold, used for Daikon [DYE-kon] Japanese decorating baked goods. The Dulce de leche [DOOL-say for “large root.” A large East term also applies to almonds duh LAY-chay] A Latin dessert Asian radish about 8 to 14 coated with a hard sugar shell. sauce popular in Central and inches long and 2 to 4 inches South America. Made by in diameter with a sweet, tangy Dredging Completely coating cooking milk until caramelized, flavor and crisp, juicy white food with a layer of or it is used to flavor candies and flesh (the skin can be either bread crumbs. desserts, such as flans. creamy white or black); also called Chinese radish. Daikon Dressing Coating food, Dutch oven A round, sprouts are a popular garnish especially salads, with two-handled, lidded pot that’s for salads and sushi. vinaigrette or other sauces. as wide as a skillet and as Also, plucking, scaling and deep as a saucepan. It’s Dashi [DAH-shee] A simple removing innards to prepare perfect for dishes that require stock fundamental to Japanese birds and fish for cooking. food to be browned first and cooking (it forms the base for then braised or stewed. miso soup and many sauces). Drippings The delicious Its main ingredients are dried juices that fall to the bottom of Dutch-process cocoa bonito flakes and kombu the pan when meat is roasted. Cocoa that has been treated (seaweed), both of which are The basis of gravy, drippings with an alkali to reduce its strained out before the stock can also be used to boost the acid content, making it milder is used. flavor of other sauces. in flavor and darker in color.

food & wine the modern cook’s dictionary 5 E F

Extra-virgin olive oil taste of raw alcohol and adds The oil that comes from the flavor by slightly caramelizing e first pressing of the olives. food. It’s often done in the Cold-pressing is done without kitchen while making a dish— chemicals and produces a or, for drama, at the table. Eau-de-vie [OWE-duh-VEE] cleaner, less acidic oil. It has French for “water of life,” this no more than 0.8 percent Flameproof Cookware that term refers to a clear spirit acidity, and is judged to have a can be used over the direct distilled from fermented fruit superior flavor; it typically has heat of a burner, rather than juice. Framboise, for example, a noticeable green color. only in the oven. is a raspberry eau-de-vie. Flatiron steak This relatively Edamame [eh-duh-MAH- new cut of beef is from the may] Fresh soybeans, generally f shoulder top blade. It is tender sold frozen in the pod or and cooks quickly. shelled. Japanese restaurants often serve them in the pod to Farro Ancient Italian wheat, Fleur de sel [fler duh SELL] be shelled as you eat them. sold as whole or cracked French for “flower of the salt.” berries or flour. High in fiber, A natural sea salt harvested by A glaze for baked protein and B vitamins. hand off the coast of Brittany, goods that gives them a shiny in France. Composed of small, golden crust. Beat an egg with Fava beans Mediterranean flaky crystals, it has a moist a splash of milk (to brown beans similar to lima beans. texture unlike that of regular crusts more quickly) or water The fresh beans come in table salt and a less salty taste. and a pinch of salt. Brush the a large pod and are encased The crystals are sun-dried, mixture on piecrust or bread in a tough skin; the favas need thereby retaining many of the dough just before baking. to be blanched and peeled nutrients not found in more before cooking or eating. Favas common . Because of its Emulsifying Blending two are also available dried. rarity and delicate flavor, it incompatible liquids, such is usually used to finish a dish, as oil and vinegar, into a Fingerling potatoes A almost like a . thickened, uniform mixture. variety of small, finger-shaped A vinaigrette is emulsified by potato. Fingerlings are low in Florets The little treelike beating the oil and vinegar starch and great for roasting or pieces (actually clusters of together with a whisk; for making potato salads. flower buds) that you get when may be added to aid in the you cut off the stem from process. For , Flambé [flahm-BAY] Setting the tender part of broccoli and the is aided by the food on fire by adding wine or divide it into sections. addition of egg yolks. spirits, then igniting the alcohol. Warm the liquid first Foie gras [FWA-grah] French En papillote A French (this makes the alcohol easier to for “fat liver.” The liver from term for food that is baked ignite), then pour it over the a fattened goose or duck. It’s in a wrapping of buttered food and set a long match to it. very rich and often either parchment paper or foil. Flambéing gets rid of the sharp pan-fried or made into pâté.

6 the modern cook’s dictionary food & wine Flour Varieties

While flour can be made by milling any edible grain, wheat flour is most commonly used for baking in the U.S. Wheat is known as “hard” if it has a high content and “soft” if the gluten content is low. Hard flour creates baked goods that hold their shape well and soft flour results in baked goods with a finer texture. There are two basic soft : cake flour, which has less gluten, and pastry flour, which has slightly more.

hard flours soft flours semolina flour whole wheat flour pastry flour use: Pasta, breads use: Breads, baked goods use: Pastries notes: A cream-colored, notes: Regular and stone- notes: Substitute equal parts protein-rich flour used for ground contain wheat germ. cake flour and all-purpose flour 7 commercial pasta; it is high More nutritious and flavorful or use /8 cup all-purpose plus in gluten, so pasta made from than white, with more fiber. 2 tbs cornstarch per cup. it holds its shape well. bread flour cake flour all-purpose flour use: Yeast breads use: Cakes and pastries use: Breads, baked goods notes: A high level of gluten notes: Substitute pastry 7 notes: A blend of hard and contributes greater protein flour or use /8 cup all-purpose soft wheat flours. Bleached content to this flour. It also flour plus 2 tbs cornstarch and unbleached can be used adds elasticity, so the dough per cup. For self-rising, 1 cup interchangeably; unbleached can expand more when acted all-purpose plus 1» tsp baking has more nutritional value. on by the yeast. powder and » tsp salt per cup.

Folding Blending ingredients Frenching Scraping the Fromage blanc gently, often adding an airy thin layer of meat, sinew and [fro-MAHZH BLONH] The ingredient to a denser one to fat from the rib bones that name means “white cheese” lighten it. The lighter mixture, protrude from meaty chops, in French. An extremely soft such as beaten egg whites, is especially lamb chops. Done and creamy fresh cheese (also spooned on top and the heavy mainly for looks, it makes picking called fromage frais) that is mixture is gently moved up up a chop less messy. Ask your made with little or no salt, and over with a rubber spatula to do it. which accounts for its very until the two are combined. mild flavor. Its consistency Frittata A firm, flat Italian is similar to that of sour cream. Fregola, or fregula Grain- omelet in which ingredients, In France, fromage blanc is size toasted pasta from Sardinia. such as chopped vegetables, usually served with fresh fruit Fregola is made from semolina are mixed with the eggs and sugar, as part of dessert flour and is wonderful in soups and cooked (without folding) at the end of the meal, but it is and salads. on the stove or in the oven. used in cooking as well.

food & wine the modern cook’s dictionary 7 G H I+J K

Ghee The Hindu term for Gyoza [gee-OH-zah] Served clarified (semiliquid) butter; as an appetizer, gyoza are g it’s one of the main fats used in Japanese dumplings with Indian cooking. Butter is slowly rounds of paper-thin dough melted until the fat separates surrounding a filling of ground from the milky residue. After meat, poultry, shellfish or A less knobby, the moisture evaporates, vegetables combined with milder cousin of often the remaining milk solids are scallions and various called for in Southeast Asian allowed to brown, which . Gyoza are shaped recipes. You can substitute gives ghee a nutty flavor and like tiny turnovers and are fresh ginger, but use less of it. aroma. Ghee keeps well sealed by crimping. They are and can be heated to a higher first browned on one side, then Ganache A mixture of melted temperature than solid butter, turned and simmered in broth. chocolate and warm cream which makes it useful for both that is the basis of chocolate sautéing and . truffles. Ganache is also used in cake frostings and fillings. Grain As it refers to meat, grain means the direction in h [GA-rom which the fibers run. Recipes ma-SAH-la] An aromatic Indian may tell you to cut across the blend of roasted and ground grain, breaking the fibers and [huh-REE-suh] spices that traditionally includes making meat seem more tender. A fiery-red, North African hot , , , sauce (from Tunisia) that’s , , , Guanciale [gwahn-TCHAH- made from chiles, garlic, , seeds and pepper. leh] Cured pork jowls (cheeks) , coriander and olive It is usually added at the end that are frequently used in oil. Harissa is often used of cooking so its enticing central Italian cooking in as a meat rub or eaten with aroma remains strong when , stews and soups. If it and soup. It is the dish is served. is unavailable, pancetta can commonly sold in tubes and be used in its place. cans in Middle Eastern markets Gelato (photo at right) and some supermarkets. Italian , You can substitute chili paste denser and finer- or hot pepper sauce. textured than American ice Heirloom vegetables cream because Heirloom vegetables are no air is grown from seeds that have whipped into been saved from season to it. Made with season; they are old-fashioned, milk rather than sometimes oddly ridged or cream, gelato is exotically colored varieties that lower in fat than are valued for their full-flavored our ice cream and taste. In contrast, farmers usually additive-free. who grow for the commercial

8 the modern cook’s dictionary food & wine market aim for vegetables that travel well and have a uniform look. Tomatoes are the i &j k best-known of the heirlooms, but other common heirlooms include carrots, beets, corn, Kaffir lime leaves beans, lettuce, potatoes and Immersion blender (photo below) Glossy, dark fruits. Look for these unusual A handheld blender that can be green leaves of the kaffir vegetables at farmers’ markets. put into a pot of soup or into a lime, a small, pear-shaped, sauce to puree the ingredients. wrinkled citrus fruit grown Hoisin sauce A thick Also ideal for smoothies and in Southeast Asia and reddish-brown, sweet-and- salad dressings. Hawaii. The unique double spicy Chinese condiment, also leaves look like they are called Peking sauce, made Infusing Adding flavorings to joined end to end. Fresh from soybeans, garlic, chiles hot liquid or to oil, then letting leaves have an intense, and various spices. the mixture stand until the fragrant aroma; the taste is as strong as you like. dried rind and leaves Hoja santa [OH-hah SAHN- Oil might be infused with have a milder, exotic tah] Spanish for “holy ,” chiles, vinegar with , floral-citrus aroma. hoja santa is a large-leaf herb sugar syrup with used in the cooking of southern beans. The most common Mexico. Its flavor has hints of is tea, in which water licorice and . is infused with tea leaves. Substitute equal parts basil and tarragon, using about half Jasmine rice A long-grain Kasha Hulled, roasted as much by volume. rice with a strong floral aroma buckwheat groats. A that is used frequently in Thai pleasantly chewy grain, it Hominy Yellow or white field and Vietnamese cooking. can be eaten as a savory corn that has been soaked in side dish or hot cereal. slaked lime and stripped of Cutting foods, both hull and germ; also known such as hard vegetables like Kimchi A spicy Korean as posole. One of the foods carrots and jicama or sliced condiment made from American Indians introduced like smoked ham, fermented vegetables (napa to the colonists. Available into matchstick-size strips. cabbage brined with hot canned, frozen or dried. Food that has been cut into red peppers and garlic is a Ground hominy is called grits. such strips may be referred familiar combination). to as a julienne. Available at Asian markets, Hot-smoked Curing with hot, kimchi will keep indefinitely rather than cold, smoke. In the Jus Literally “juice,” jus is in the refrigerator. Northwest, salmon is frequently pan drippings (from roasting hot-smoked, which cooks the beef, for example) skimmed Kombu A hardy seaweed fish and produces a drier, flakier of excess fat and extended, used in Japanese cooking. texture than the more common if necessary, by adding a bit of Kombu is a principal ingredient cold- does. water or stock. of dashi (fish stock).

food & wine the modern cook’s dictionary 9 L M N O

Lychees (photo at right) Also known as litchi nuts, l these walnut-size fruits have been cherished in China for 2,000 Lard Rendered pork fat. years. Lychees Lard has a firm texture and is have thin red traditionally used to make flaky shells encasing piecrusts and crispy crusts for soft white flesh fried foods, since it can reach with a hard seed. high temperatures without The taste is delicate, smoking. Used as a verb, the with a texture like that term means to insert strips of of a fibrous grape. Grown fat into a roast to make the in Florida and California, cooked meat more succulent. lychees are available fresh Marinating Immersing from June to mid-July. food in flavored liquid, usually Lardo The Italian equivalent of one containing an acidic fatback, an unrendered form ingredient and at least some of lard. Available brine-cured or oil, for a period of time before seasoned with herbs and m cooking. You can also use spices, lardo is considered a a dry marinade made from delicacy in Tuscany and is used a combination of herbs, not only to flavor soups and Macerating Soaking food, spices and salt. In either stews but to spread on . such as fruit, in a flavorful case, the intent is to flavor liquid, such as an eau-de-vie. and tenderize. Leavener An ingredient, such as baking powder, baking Magret A boneless duck Mascarpone A very soft, soda or yeast, that is used to breast, usually cooked rare or rich cow’s-milk cheese from increase the volume of doughs medium-rare like a steak. northern Italy and parts and batters and to lighten of Switzerland. Akin to crème their textures. Manchego A dry, crumbly fraîche or clotted cream. Spanish aged sheep’s-milk Lemongrass A Southeast cheese often grated for use in Matsutake Mushrooms Asian herb that is one of the quesadillas and empanadas. from Japan that grow at the most important flavorings in Substitute good Parmesan or base of certain trees, usually Vietnamese and Thai cooking. aged white cheddar. concealed under fallen leaves. Its aroma and taste are like The rare growing conditions those of the from a Mandoline A tool used to cut and difficulty in harvesting particularly fragrant lemon. ingredients, usually vegetables, them account for their steep The plant has a narrow, into various forms, such as thin price. They have a spicy grasslike stalk, most of which slices (plain or ridged) and aroma, similar to cinnamon. is woody; use only the bottom matchstick-size sticks. A metal Ma­tsutake mushrooms are third. Substitute lemon zest or plastic frame holds a blade high in protein, low in fat and with a touch of fresh ginger. over which the food is pushed. rich in vitamins.

10 the modern cook’s dictionary food & wine Medallion A piece of meat Miso Fermented soybean Nopal (plural nopales) that’s been cut across the paste that is a basic ingredient Paddles (leaves) of the prickly grain into a small round or oval in many Japanese dishes. Miso pear (nopal) cactus. Nopales slice before cooking. is usually intensely salty, but are firm and crunchy (the there are many versions, from smaller they are, the more Mesclun Originally a delicate white miso to strongly tender) and have a flavor Provençal mixture of seven flavored dark, or red, miso. similar to green beans. They lettuces, grown together in can be eaten raw or cooked. the same field or garden patch, Mortar and pestle A deep harvested when very young bowl (the mortar) is used Nori Paper-thin Japanese and tender, and enjoyed in as a reservoir for grinding, dried-seaweed sheets that form the early spring. In the U.S., which is done with a handheld the dark outer layer of sushi it has come to mean any implement that’s like a fat, rolls. Cut into strips for garnish; mixture of greens, including blunt and heavy stick (pestle). also used as flavoring. arugula, oak leaf lettuce, mizuna and radicchio. Mulling Flavoring red or white wine or cider by heating it Millet A small grain that looks with sugar, spices, herbs and o like birdseed (in fact, it’s used sometimes fruit, such as as birdseed as well as livestock orange or lemon slices. feed). Prepared like rice, millet Means “little has an appealing, mildly nutty ears” in Italian. Thicker than taste and a cereal-like texture. most forms of pasta, this It is also rich in protein. n disk-shaped pasta is a specialty of Apulia, where it is made Chopping food into fresh from a combination of very fine pieces. Nam pla An extremely semolina flour, unbleached pungent liquid based on salted, flour, water and salt. [MEER-pwah] A fermented fish. It is sold at combination of diced aromatic most Asian food markets. Used Ovenproof Cookware that vegetables, such as carrots, in both Thai and Vietnamese can be used in the oven, often onions and celery, plus herbs recipes, it is also referred to as made of glass or ceramic. like thyme and bay leaf, nuoc mam (the Vietnamese Some metal saucepans and sautéed in butter and used name) or just Asian fish sauce. skillets are not ovenproof as the flavor base for French because they have plastic soups, stews and sauces. Nonreactive Cooking handles that would melt. vessels, such as stainless steel Mirin A low-alcohol, sweet and glass, that are not affected Oyster sauce A thick, brown golden wine made from by acidic foods like wine, concentrated Asian flavoring glutinous rice; essential in vinegar and tomatoes. By made with soy sauce, brine and Japanese cooking. You may contrast, reactive materials oysters, though the seafood’s substitute rice vinegar mixed like cast iron, copper and flavor is barely detectable. with a little sugar, or use aluminum may discolor foods You can use plain soy sauce as medium-sweet sherry. or impart a metallic taste. a substitute.

food & wine the modern cook’s dictionary 11 P Q R S

Peel, or pizza peel A flat wooden or metal shovel-like p piece of equipment used q for sliding breads and pizza into and out of the oven.

Paillard A piece of meat or Peppadew A small fruit that Quatre-épices French for poultry that has been flattened resembles a walnut-size red “four spices,” quatre-épices is by pounding until evenly thin. bell pepper. They’re available a mixture that includes cored and seeded, in jars, in , nutmeg, cloves Pancetta The Italian version mild and spicy versions, all and either ginger or cinnamon. of bacon, pancetta is generally imported from South Africa. leaner and it is cured with Quenelle A delicate French salt but not smoked. Pancetta Pimentón A Spanish smoked fish or meat dumpling that is comes in a sausagelike roll. paprika, available in many shaped into an oval with styles, from sweet to hot. You pointed ends and poached in Panino (plural panini) can substitute 1 teaspoon stock. You can also shape other A that is filled with paprika mixed with » teaspoon foods in this way; for example, ham, salami, cheese or other pure ground chile. sweet and savory mousses can ingredients and then grilled in be scooped into quenelles. a press of the same name. Poaching Cooking food In Italy, a panino can be a bread in water, stock or an aromatic Queso blanco Spanish for roll or sandwich. liquid that’s just at a bare “white cheese,” queso blanco simmer, which produces a is a white, slightly salty, Panko Coarse, dry white delicate texture in the food. fresh Mexican cheese with bread crumbs, also known as a texture similar to that of Japanese bread crumbs, used Polenta Italian cornmeal farmer cheese. for breading fried foods. They mush served hot and soft or provide a nuttier, crispier crust chilled until firm, then cut Quinoa [KEEN-wah] A grain than regular bread crumbs. into slices and fried or grilled. similar to buckwheat and Polenta also refers to the amaranth, quinoa was a staple Parboiling Boiling an raw cornmeal. of the ancient Incas. The small, ingredient until partially done disk-like seeds have a delicate so that dense foods like molasses flavor that can be served carrots will be done at the A thick and syrupy, concentrated as a side dish like couscous or same time as quick-cooking juice made from boiling sour rice. Quinoa is extremely ones, like peas. with sugar. nutritious—packed with iron, It is used in Middle Eastern and magnesium, B vitamins and Parchment paper A thin Mediterranean countries to calcium. It also has a high yet durable heat-resistant provide tangy flavor to savory protein content, containing all paper usually used to line cake, dishes. You can find it at the essential amino acids. jelly-roll and bread pans as well Middle Eastern markets. Besides being eaten as a grain, as cookie sheets. It prevents quinoa is also ground into flour food from sticking. Posole See Hominy and made into pasta.

12 the modern cook’s dictionary food & wine r

Radicchio An Italian chicory, commonly available as a small purple-and-white, cup-shaped head (radicchio di Verona). Its slight bitterness makes radicchio a flavorful addition to salads. The many variations include radicchio di Treviso, which is shaped like a Belgian Rice paper An edible paper s endive, and the decorative made from the pith of the red-and-white-speckled Asian rice-paper plant. Also, heads from Chioggia round and triangular sheets Sansho A mildly hot (photo at right). of rice paper made from Japanese seasoning made white-rice flour and water are from the aromatic berries Reconstituting Rehydrating used as wrappers for Thai of the prickly ash tree, which dried ingredients, such as and Vietnamese spring rolls. are dried and ground into mushrooms or tomatoes, by a powder. It is closely related soaking them in liquid. Ricing Mashing vegetables to the spice that the Chinese by pushing them through a call . Reducing Boiling a liquid, ricer, a handheld utensil like stock or wine, until partially that resembles a very large Sautéing French for “to evaporated to concentrate garlic press. A ricer is an jump.” Cooking food quickly flavor or, with cream, to thicken. excellent tool for mashing over high heat in a small vegetables, like potatoes, that amount of fat. Refreshing Plunging just- get gluey when pureed in the boiled vegetables into cold food processor or blender. Scalding Heating a liquid, water as soon as they have usually milk, almost but not been drained. This stops the Risotto rice The plump quite to a boil. Frequently vegetables from continuing white rice from Italy that can a step in making white sauce. to cook in their own heat. absorb lots of water without getting mushy, which makes Scallops This popular Rendering Cooking poultry it perfect for risotto; also called seafood is the creamy white skin, bacon, fatty cuts of Piedmont rice. The highest adductor muscle of a saltwater meat or just plain fat from grade is superfino. Look bivalve. The term also refers either meat or poultry, so for Arborio, Carnaroli, Roma, to thin, boneless round or oval- that it liquefies. Baldo and vialone nano. shaped slices of meat or fish.

food & wine the modern cook’s dictionary 13 S T C

Scoring Making shallow cuts Simmering Heating a liquid Stock Water that has been in food, usually in a diagonal until gently bubbling but not simmered and flavored with crosshatch pattern, with a knife boiling (approximately 170°). bones, seafood shells or or fork. Scoring tenderizes meat, vegetables and, usually, herbs helps it absorb flavorings—and Skimming Removing scum and spices. For a deeper makes it look attractive. or fat from the surface of a flavor, roast the bones, shells liquid, usually using a ladle. or vegetables before adding Cooking food over them to the water. high heat until a brown crust Smoke point The temperature has formed. at which oil starts to break Cooking food, down and smoke. Because an usually chopped vegetables Seasoning to taste oil’s flavor turns bitter when like onions, very gently in Adding salt and pepper until it smokes, it’s best to fry in one butter just until they are slightly you think the food tastes that has a high smoke point. softened and beginning to give its best. Even when the recipe Corn, peanut and safflower oil off their moisture. doesn’t specify it, taste a have smoke points over 400°; dish before you serve it and safflower’s is about 450°. season as needed. Starter A mixture of flour and t (photo below) A liquid that attracts wild yeasts Japanese leaf related to from the air. It is used to make basil with a slightly sweet, sourdough bread. Starter Tahini A pale, thick, creamy peppery, minty taste. was used to raise dough before paste made of ground yeast came in little packets. seeds and sesame The same starter can last for oil, frequently used in Middle years because you use only Eastern cooking. part of it for each loaf and replenish what you’ve taken Tamari An aged Japanese (called “feeding the starter”) sauce made from soybeans, with more flour and liquid. with a richer flavor than ordinary soy sauce. It is a boon Cooking with the for people with wheat allergies heat from vapor. You can steam because, unlike soy sauce, food in a covered pot with a the soybeans used in tamari steamer insert, a bamboo are not fermented with wheat. Shoyu Japanese soy sauce, steamer or even a strainer set which is sweeter and less salty over a saucepan of water. The fruit of a tree than Chinese soy sauce. common in Africa, Asia and Steeping Immersing an India; its pods contain a sticky Shucking Removing a food’s ingredient in hot liquid, either pulp with a sweet-sour taste. outer layer, such as pulling to flavor the liquid, as with Tamarind, like lemon juice, is the husk off a cob of corn, or herbal , or to soften the used as a seasoning. Both forcing open the shell of an food, as when reconstituting the paste and concentrate need oyster and taking out the meat. dried mushrooms. to be thinned before using.

14 the modern cook’s dictionary food & wine Squash Blossoms

A staple in Europe, squash blossoms (photo at right, with baby squash attached) are becoming more widely available at U.S. farmers’ markets in the spring and summer. The flowers can be prepared in many ways; one of the most popular is stuffing them with a soft cheese, dipping them in batter and deep-frying them. Squash blossoms can be used in salads or as a garnish. Before using, remove the pistil in the center. Store them in the refrigerator for no more than a day.

Tapas Small savory dishes are crunchy and slightly Tomatillo A small green served in Spanish restaurants sweet, with the merest hint of tomato-like fruit with a thin and wine bars. They can be brininess. The roe is also papery husk that must simple dishes, such as an available in a range of colors be removed before cooking. assortment of olives, or and flavors and is most often The sharp lemony flavor of more complex. Tapas can be used as a garnish or in sauces tomatillos is popular in served hot or cold, as a snack and dressings. Unlike caviar, Mexican and Southwestern or combined to make an tobiko does not change texture U.S. cooking, especially in entire meal. when sitting in liquid—even sauces and relishes. when heated. Basically, A British dessert made warming an ingredient. For , or bean A food of layers of or eggs, you do this so they made by pressing coagulated ladyfingers soaked in spirits, won’t curdle when you combine into blocks, similar such as sherry, alternating them with a hot ingredient. to the way that cheese is with custard and jam and Whisk a bit of the hot liquid made from milk. Tofu is a good topped with whipped cream into the eggs, then whisk that source of protein and it has a and fruit, nuts or chocolate. warmed mixture into the bland flavor that makes it hot liquid. Tempering chocolate capable of taking on the flavor Tri-tip A relatively inexpensive creates a smooth, glossy finish of whatever it is cooked with. cut of beef from the butt on chocolate-coated candies. Tofu comes packed in water, portion of the bottom sirloin, The easiest method is to in three main varieties: also known as triangle roast microwave the chocolate until Firm and regular tofu has a or Santa Maria . warm to the touch and fairly dense texture and can The triangle steak, or coulotte perfectly smooth. be cut into cubes or crumbled; steak, comes from this cut. soft tofu has a custardlike Like flank steak, the tri-tip will Tobiko Flying-fish roe. In texture and is good for making toughen with prolonged their usual prepared state, the shakes, dips, custards, puddings cooking. Serve it medium-rare, very small, loose, salted eggs and dressings. thinly sliced against the grain.

food & wine the modern cook’s dictionary 15 U–Z

Truffles A highly prized wild Vegetarian A person who An fungus, with a roughly ball-like doesn’t eat meat for a variety English bread that is similar to shape, that grows underground of reasons—sometimes a popover. It’s made of a thin near the roots of certain trees, because of religious beliefs or batter of flour, eggs and milk generally oaks. Truffles come health concerns. There are and is traditionally baked in in two varieties: white (from many variations: A vegan will beef drippings and served as a Italy) and black (from France). not eat any animal-derived side dish with a roast. Both are extremely expensive. foods, such as butter, cheese, In addition, chocolate candies milk and eggs; ovo-lacto Yukon Gold potato A that are made with ganache vegetarians eat eggs and milk; thin-skinned, yellow-fleshed and formed into balls are pescatarians eat fish; and semi- all-purpose potato that’s tasty known as truffles. vegetarians eat fish and poultry. and versatile; it can be boiled, baked, mashed and fried. Turbinado sugar Vinaigrette A mixture in an A raw sugar cleaned by a approximate ratio of three or Zabaglione An Italian steam process to remove four parts oil to one part acid form of the French sabayon. contaminants. It gets its pale (usually vinegar). The blend is Eggs, sugar and wine (typically golden color and mild flavor seasoned with salt and pepper Marsala) are whipped until from the small amount and may include other flavorings frothy and served in glasses as of molasses (cane juice) left like mustard (which lends a dessert. This light custard on the crystals. a sharp flavor and can also be can also be used as a sauce for used to thicken the dressing). fresh or poached fruit. Although best-known as salad dressings, vinaigrettes are Zest The outermost colored u-z versatile sauces for meats and part of citrus peel, with none of vegetables and can also be the bitter white pith included. used as dips and marinades. Usually grated and used as Udon Thick Japanese a flavoring in raw and cooked made occasionally of corn (photo at right) savory and sweet dishes. flour but usually of white wheat The root of an Asian plant flour. Udon are extremely soft, similar to that almost pillowy. They are is used to make the sharp, available fresh, frozen and fiery, green condiment dried at Asian markets. commonly served with sushi. The wasabi that is Ultrapasteurization A form available in the U.S. is of in which milk actually an inexpensive or other liquid is held at a substitute (horseradish higher temperature (275° for mixed with mustard and 4 seconds) than is usual green coloring) that for pasteurization (161° for can be found as a paste 15 seconds); it was developed or powder (the latter as a way to extend shelf life. is mixed with water much Often used for whipping cream. like dry mustard is).

16 the modern cook’s dictionary food & wine OTHER TERRIFIC BOOKS FROM FOOD & WINE

Food & Wine Annual Every delicious recipe from an entire year of Food & Wine magazine in one fabulous book.

Best of the Best The best recipes from the best of the year. Top picks from hundreds of recipes tested in F&W’s kitchens.

F&W’s Wine Guide The ultimate wine guide. Over 1,000 wines reviewed in a pocket-size book.

F&W’s Cocktail Guide Our indispensable guide offers more than 100 signature drinks from the country’s hottest restaurants, bars and lounges.

Photographs Keller & Keller: p. 5 To order, call 800-284-4145 or Andrew McCaul: p. 9, 14, 16 log on to foodandwine.com. Kana Okada: p. 8 Tina Rupp: p. 2 Hector Sanchez: Cover Evan Sklar/Food Pix: p. 10 Mikkel Vang: p. 4 Wendell T. Webber: p. 13, 15

Prop Stylists Philippa Brathwaite: p. 2, 15 Christine Rudolph: p. 4 Alistair Turnbull: Cover, p. 5

Food Stylists Alison Attenborough: p. 4, 5 Frances Boswell: p. 15 Jamie Kimm: Cover Jee Levin: p. 2, 8