Hummus Perfected Warm.Whipped
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H E R O P K T I M S B I A R | L Jerk-Rubbed Traybake Chicken Rich & Simple French Apple Cake H L C ✩ ✩ C K H O A Amatriciana | Caramel-Braised Chicken O Rome’s Robust Vietnam’s N C G E U O T H Y E W A Y CHANGE THE WAY YOU COOK ◆ THE NEW HOME COOKING SPECIAL ISSUE ◆ Hummus Perfected Warm.Whipped. Drizzled. Kitchen Guide: Sweeteners, measured up … Weeknight Easy Thai Fried Rice 19_MSM_Sample_FrontCover_CTWYC.indd 1 3/18/20 3:28 PM ◆ Special Issue Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine The New Home Cooking ◆ RECIPE INDEX Rigatoni with Roman Broccoli Sauce In which broccoli becomes a light and silky pasta sauce ����������������������������������������������6 Whole-Roasted Cauliflower Simply seasoned, tender and lightly charred: Cauliflower perfected ����������������������������� 7 Salt-Crusted Potatoes (Papas Arrugadas) Wrinkled and salty outside, tender and creamy inside: Tenerife’s potatoes ������������������� 8 Salt-Crusted Potatoes ......................Page 8 French Apple Cake ..........................Page 29 Pasta all’Amatriciana In Rome, red sauce is rich, robust and ��� barely there? ��������������������������������������������� 10 Chickpea and Harissa Soup (Lablabi) In Tunisia, soup is rich, bright, loaded with chickpeas and assembled in the bowl ���������11 Charred Brussels Sprouts with Garlic Chips Crunchy slivers of garlic punch up the flavor—and texture—of sprouts ���������������������� 13 Thai Fried Rice Andy Ricker makes the case for fried rice as a weeknight staple ���������������������������������14 Sichuan Chicken Salad Bashing more flavor into chicken salad�������������������������������������������������������������������16 Hummus (Hummus Masabacha) Real hummus is warm, whipped and drizzled ��������������������������������������������������������� 17 Hummus (Hummus Masabacha) ....... Page 17 Guatemalan Salsa (Chirmol) Rigatoni with Roman Broccoli Sauce ...Page 6 Charred jalapeños and chipotle add smoke to a simple salsa ��������������������������������������21 Shaved Zucchini and Herb Salad with Parmesan Revisiting raw zucchini’s Italian roots ��������������������������������������������������������������������21 Roasted Chicken, Three Ways For boldly flavored, weeknight-friendly chicken, break out the sheet pan �������������������� 22 Soft Polenta From northern Italy, a light, creamy polenta that actually tastes like corn �������������������23 Italian Flatbread (Piadina) Fresh homemade bread on a weeknight? The Italians show us how it’s done �����������������26 Pasta with Sweet Corn, Tomatoes and Basil Grating fresh corn—and saving the cobs—creates a light, creamy pasta sauce ������������� 28 Roasted Chicken, Three Ways ...........Page 22 Soft Polenta ..................................Page 23 French Apple Cake To make a more casual apple pie, lose the crust ��������������������������������������������������������29 [ EVERY I SSUE] Meze: Lessons and discoveries from Milk Street ������������������������������������������������������ 2 Tuesday Nights at Milk Street: Casual dinners� Fast� ���������������������������������������������� 4 Cookie: Inspired by Nutella, a triple-chocolate indulgence ����������������������������������������30 Kitchen Counts: Taking the measure of sweeteners �������������������������������������������������30 Cocktails: The not-so-sweet side of a better sangria �������������������������������������������������31 Off the Air:Questions from Milk Street Radio, answered ���������������������������������������� 32 Sketchbook: Simple tips for better knifework ������������������������������������������������������� 33 Front Cover Photo: Joyelle West; Styling: Christine Tobin Chickpea and Harissa Soup .............. Page 11 Front Cover Illustration: Bill Sanderson; Back Cover Photo: Noam Moskowitz Shaved Zucchini and Herb Salad .......Page 21 Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street in downtown Boston—at 177 Milk Street—is home how we cook by searching the world for bold, simple recipes and techniques that to our editorial offices and cooking school. It is also where we recordChristopher are adapted and tested for home cooks everywhere. For more information, go to Kimball’s Milk Street television and radio shows. Milk Street is devoted to changing 177MilkStreet.com. 19_MSM_Sample_TOC.indd 2 10/24/18 10:52 AM christopher kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine [ EDITOR’S NOTE] C hristopher K imball Welcome to Milk Street President and Founder Christopher Kimball harlie bentley used We think of recipes as belong- Media Director and Co-Founder to say, “That’s the one ing to a people and place; out- Melissa Baldino we’ve been looking for,” siders are interlopers. Milk Street Editorial Director - J.M. Hirsch referring to the last bale of offers the opposite—an invitation Food Editor - Matthew Card C Art Director - Jennifer Baldino Cox hay slung up into the loft. It was to the cooks of the world to sit at Managing Editor - Jenn Ladd celebrated with a black cherry soda the same table. Books & Special Editions Editor - Michelle Locke from the machine at Carl Hess’ A week later, in Saigon, I was Recipe Editor - Dawn Yanagihara Texaco station. picked up outside our hotel on a Staff Writer - Albert Stumm Science Editor - Guy Crosby This special issue of Milk motorbike. Though I had driven Street Magazine also is “the one a taxi in New York City, this Magazine Design - Joe Dizney Production Manager - A.K. Summers we’ve been looking for,” particu- 20-minute journey was heart-in- Associate Art Directors - Brianna Coleman, larly if you’ve been looking for a mouth. Intersections were vehicular Devin Sullivan new way to cook. Generally, I’m Russian roulette, a game of chicken Director of Recipe Development - Diane Unger no fan of shortcuts or bold prom- at every corner. Kitchen Director - Erin Register ises, so when someone offers to We made it to a ground-floor Senior Recipe Developer - Erika Bruce Recipe Developers - Courtney Hill, make cooking easier and better, apartment where I was introduced Phoebe Maglathlin, Julia Rackow my skeptical nature demands an to a local cooking teacher. She was Contributing Recipe Developers - Bianca Borges, explanation. patient and taught me to make a Lynn Clark, Laura Russell Culinary Assistants - Rose Hattabaugh, I’ve cooked the food of my New England child- variety of dumplings in a kitchen that was little Angie Marvin hood for over half a century, followed by all things more than a table and two small propane burners. French, a taste of Italian, as well as occasional for- Slowly, I started to feel at home: the slicing, the Director of Education - Rosemary Gill Culinary Instructors - Josh Mamaclay, ays into Mexican, Moroccan, Indian and Asian. My shaping, the shared effort. I was the novice, and a Catherine Smart, Liz Vena world was mostly northern European fare, a cuisine cook halfway around the world was the expert. Media Relations Director - Deborah Broide based on meat, heat, bread and root vegetables. It is Brand Development - Christopher Johnson a cuisine almost entirely devoid of spices, one that didn’t return home to cook authentic Viet- Vice President of Marketing - David Mack uses a limited palette of herbs, fermented sauces, I namese cuisine. I did, however, return a better Director of Underwriting - Lisa Hensiek Television and Video Producer - Carly Helmetag chilies and strong ingredients, such as ginger. It is a cook. I learned to use a cleaver for slicing and not Radio Producer - Annie Sinsabaugh cuisine based on technique, building flavors using just chopping, to use meat as a flavoring, to think of Associate Producer - Jackie Noack classic cooking methods. herbs as greens and not just accents, and to appreci- Digital Marketing Manager - Stephanie Menezes Digital Content Director - Evan Petto Ten years ago, I was driving into Hanoi from ate salty, bitter and sweet in new combinations. Digital Content Coordinator - Lian Parsons the airport. We overtook a sea of motorbikes, some Milk Street is about that moment in that kitchen Executive Assistant - Christine Gordon with crates of pigs on the back, one with a middle- in that city and the thousands of other moments we Director of Culinary Engagement Jacqueline Grady Smith aged man balancing lumber on his shoulder, and will experience in the coming years. Ethnic food is Office Manager - Maria DeRobertis several bearing whole families precariously perched, dead; it smacks of the sin of colonialism. This is a Circulation Director - Stuart Jordan grasping hard and buffeted by the wind. It was a culinary—not cultural—exchange. There are endur- Circulation Manager - Beth Freeman Reynolds Business Consultant - Matt Sutton foreign shore. ing kitchen values that travel easily from Saigon to Then I ate the food. Lemon grass with clams. Kiev to Jerusalem to Quito to London to New York. Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Cooking School offers cooking instruction at 177 Milk Street Pho. A breakfast banh mi. Roadside stalls selling I recently spoke with Naomi Duguid, author of in Boston. For our curriculum and schedule, go grilled foods like eggs in the shell and sweet potato. “Taste of Persia.” In Armenia she was hiking to 177milkstreet.com/cookingschool. Mango and papaya. The salads. Hot, sweet, salty through an apple orchard and was invited home by Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Radio is broad- and bitter. Broth and noodles. Coffee with condensed a local family. They lovingly prepared a single apple, cast weekly on public radio stations nation- milk and raw egg. slicing it neatly, arranging it on their best plate. wide. Our