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View / Download 5.1 Mb Nourishing Networks: The Public Culture of Food in Nineteenth-Century America by Ashley Rose Young Department of History Duke University Date:_______________________ Approved: ___________________________ Laura Edwards, Supervisor ___________________________ Priscilla Wald ___________________________ Laurent Dubois ___________________________ Adriane Lentz-Smith Dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Department of History in the Graduate School of Duke University 2017 i v ABSTRACT Nourishing Networks: The Public Culture of Food in Nineteenth-Century America by Ashley Rose Young Department of History Duke University Date:_______________________ Approved: ___________________________ Laura Edwards, Supervisor ___________________________ Priscilla Wald ___________________________ Laurent Dubois ___________________________ Adriane Lentz-Smith An abstract of a dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Department of History in the Graduate School of Duke University 2017 Copyright by Ashley Rose Young 2017 Abstract “Nourishing Networks: The Public Culture of Food in Nineteenth-Century America” examines how daily practices of food production and distribution shaped the development of New Orleans’ public culture in the long nineteenth century, from the colonial era through the mid-twentieth century. During this period, New Orleans’ vendors labored in the streets of diverse neighborhoods where they did more than sell a vital commodity. As “Nourishing Networks” demonstrates, the food economy provided the disenfranchised—people of color, women, and recent migrants—a means to connect themselves to the public culture of the city, despite legal prohibitions intended to keep them on the margins. Those who were legally marginalized exercised considerable influence over the city’s public culture, shaping both economic and social interactions among urban residents in the public sphere. To the vexation of some elites, these vendors helped determine what New Orleanians ate, how much it cost, and how they ate it. More than that, they shaped the cultural meanings of food. Exploring key sites of public culture including the municipal markets and their surrounding streets, the dissertation situates New Orleans’ local food culture within broader changes like slavery and abolition at the national and even international level—a perspective that places the city’s vendors at the center of a much larger transformation in Americans’ relationship to food, which was always about much more than sustenance. In fact, food became a iv mode through which disenfranchised Americans participated in the political culture: those without the vote claimed a voice through their role in the country’s food culture and economy. v Dedication To my parents, Sharon Rose Young and Walter Charles Young III, who have been with me every step of the way. vi Contents Abstract ......................................................................................................................................... iv List of Figures ............................................................................................................................ viii Acknowledgements ...................................................................................................................... x 1. Introduction ............................................................................................................................... 1 1.1 Overview ........................................................................................................................... 1 1.2 Historiography .................................................................................................................. 3 1.3 Dissertation Structure .................................................................................................... 13 2. Cultures of Necessity .............................................................................................................. 20 3. Cultures of Mobility ............................................................................................................... 76 4. Cultures of Belonging ........................................................................................................... 133 5. Cultures of Imagination ....................................................................................................... 188 6. Cultures of Enclosure ........................................................................................................... 258 7. Conclusion ............................................................................................................................. 338 References .................................................................................................................................. 359 Primary Sources .................................................................................................................. 359 Manuscript Materials ....................................................................................................... 359 Newspapers ....................................................................................................................... 360 Published Primary Sources ............................................................................................. 361 Secondary Sources .............................................................................................................. 366 Biography ................................................................................................................................... 386 vii List of Figures Figure 1: Jean-François-Benjamin Dumont de Montigny’s Garden in New Orleans ........ 65 Figure 2: Norman’s Plan of New Orleans and Environs, 1845 ........................................... 158 Figure 3: Illustration of an African-American Cook in The Picayune’s Creole Cook Book.. 212 Figure 4: Nurse Mérance .......................................................................................................... 214 Figure 5: Milk Vendor Postcard .............................................................................................. 224 Figure 6: Old French Chef Selling Mustard in New Orleans .............................................. 240 Figure 7: Old French Chef’s Street Cry .................................................................................. 241 Figure 8: The Calas Girl ............................................................................................................ 243 Figure 9: The Calas Girl’s Street Cry ...................................................................................... 244 Figure 10: Pavilion Market. Magazine Market, New Orleans, c. 1875 .............................. 273 Figure 11: Market House. West Side Market, Cleveland, 1919 ........................................... 296 Figure 12: Pavilion Market. Prytania Market, New Orleans .............................................. 299 Figure 13: Pavilion Market. Poydras Market, New Orleans ............................................... 300 Figure 14: Market House. Dryades Market, New Orleans, c. 1940 .................................... 322 Figure 15: Market House. Ewing Market, New Orleans, c. 1940 ....................................... 323 Figure 16: Market House. Magazine Market, New Orleans, c. 1940.................................. 325 Figure 17: Market House. St. Bernard Market, New Orleans, c. 1940 ............................... 326 Figure 18: Supermarket. Schwegmann Bros. Giant Supermarket, Metairie, Louisiana, c. 1950 ............................................................................................................................................. 334 Figure 19: Filming Lena Richard’s New Orleans Cook Book .................................................... 340 Figure 20: Lena Richard’s New Orleans Cook Book 1-Year Anniversary Party ..................... 342 viii Figure 21: Lena Richard’s Gumbo House .............................................................................. 356 ix Acknowledgements It seems fitting to begin writing my acknowledgements while sitting on the banks of the Mississippi River with the French Market right behind me. Earlier this morning, I was conducting follow-up research at the Historic New Orleans Collection. It was a perfect day in New Orleans when I stepped on the streetcar: sunny, 70 degrees, and lacking the bayou’s usual cheekily oppressive humidity. I caught the streetcar on St. Charles and watched the avenue’s iconic mansions whisk by as I made my way towards Canal Street. At the end of the line, I got off, strolled through the French Quarter, and soaked in the city’s deep history as I passed through its oldest neighborhood. New Orleans has taught me so much about the history of the United States and the pathways through which communities foster a sense of belonging even in the face of incredible hardship. I am indebted to the New Orleanians who have shared their stories, their recipes, and their city’s history with me. There is a team of academics who have helped me process what I have observed in New Orleans, in its streets, and in its archives. Laura Edwards has been a constant champion of my project, encouraging me to write a dissertation of which I am proud. She supported my intellectual growth throughout this process, believing, like I do, that food is a dynamic lens
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