W.28-A (xv) (N) 1.000

CENSUS OF INDIA 1961

VOLUME_.V-PART VII-A

SELECTED CRAFTS OF GUJARAT

15. TRADITIONAL su..VER OJlN~

R. K. TRIVEDI

Superintendent of Census Operations, Gujarat

PRICE Ra. 9,75 or 22 Silo 9 d. or • U.S, 3.51 CENSUS OF INDIA 1961 LIST OF PUBLICATIONS

CENTRAL GOVERNMENT PuBLICATIONS

Census of India, 1961 Volume V -Gujarat is being published in the following parts: *" !-A(i) General Report '" I-A(ii)a " '" I-A(ii)b " '" I-A(iii) General Report-Economic Trends and Projections *' I-B Report on Vital Statistics and Fertility Survey *' I-C Subsidiary Tables 'l< II-A General PopUlation Tables *" II-B(l) General Economic Tables (Tables B-1 to B-IV-C) * II-B(2) General Economic Tables (Tables B-V to B-IX) '" II-C Cultural and Migration Tables * III Household Economic Tables (Tables B-X to B-XVII) * IV-A Report on Housing and Establishments * IV-B Housing and Establislunent Tables -.I< V-A Tables on Scheduled Castes and Scheduled Tribes V-B Ethnographic Notes on Scheduled Castes and Scheduled Tribes (including reprints) *"* VI Village Survey Monographs t VII-A Selected Crafts of Gujarat * VII-B Fairs and Festivals *Vill-A Administration Report-Enumeration } Not for Sale *VIII-B A~tration Reprnrt--Tabulation

I\' IX Atlas Volume * IX(A) Atlas Volume (Abridged) :I' X-A(i) Special Report on Ahmedabad City '" X-B Special Tables on Cities and Block Directory '" X-C Special Migrant Tables for Ahmedabad City STATE GOVERNMENT PuBLICATIONS * 17 District Census Handbooks in English * 17 District Census Handbooks in Gujarati • Published •• Village Survey Monographs for thirteen "ill ages, Pachhatardi. Magdalla, Bhirandiara, Bamanbore, Tavadia. Isanpur, Ghadvi, Chichod, Sutrapada, jamb;;r, Ambav, Nana Sanja and Velavadar published : Monographs on Agate Industry of Cambay, Wood Carving of Gujarat, Patara Making at Bhavnagar, Ivory Work of Mahuva, Padlock Making at Sarva, Scale Making of Savarkundla, Perfumery at Palanpur, Crochet Work of Jamnagar, Sujani Weaving of Broach. Soap Making at Kapadvanj, Mashru Weaving of Patan, Glass Work at Kapadvanj, Jari Industry of Surat and Transparent Lacquer Work of Sankheda published

PRINTED BY SltANTlLAL H. 8llAH AT NAVAJIVAN PltEBII, AIDIBDA:bAJ).l4-. PUBLISHED BY 'J'HB UANAOEA OF PtTDUCATlON8, DBLBJ 1969. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

FIELD INVESTIGATION M. L. ACHARYA Statistical Assistant

PHOTOGRAPHS AND ART WORK K. D. VAISHNAV Photographer

LAY OUT AND PRINTING M. P. JACOB Head Proof-reader

FIRST DRAFT C. P. VYAS llesearch ()~cer (SPECIAL STUDIES SECTION)

Assisted by M. L. ACHARYA Statistical Assistant

EDITOR R. K. TRIVEDI Superintendent of Census Operations, Gujarat, AHMEDABAD

CONTENTS PAGES FOREWORD ix-xu PREFACE xiii SECTION I INTRODUCTION Introductory-Location-(i) Rajkot-(ii) Paddhari (Rajkot district-(Hi) Palitana (B~avnagar d~strict)-(iv) Anjar (Kutch district)-(v) Bhuj (Kutch district)-(vi) Mandvl (Kutch dlstrict)-(vii) Nadiad (Kaira district)-Antiquity of the Craft.. . 1-5 SECTION II CRAFf AND CRAFTSMEN Soni-Luhars-Working Force-Literacy-Workshop and Dwelling-Hired Workers-Social and Personal Characteristics-Hobbies and Recreational Activities of the Craftsmen . 6-11 SECTION III RAW MATERIALS 12-13 SECTION IV TOOLS AND TECHNIQUE I. Tools-II. Technique-(i) Assaying-(ii) Alloying-(iii) Rolling and Pressing-(iv) Designing, Shaping and Soldering-Enamel Work-Polishing-(i) Pokhani-(a) Refining, Rolling .and Pressing-(b) Shaping of a Reel-(c) Shaping of Flower and Designing-(d) Makin~ a Cha1l!­ (e) Polishing-(ii) Chhada or Sankala-(a) Rolling of Metal-(b) Wrapping of WIre, Cuttmg of Ring and Arrangements of Rings-(c) Soldering, Finishing and Polishing-(iii) M~king of a Betel Bo:x:-Pan Dabo or Pan Dani-(a) Refining and Pressing-(b) Shaping, Sketchmg and Designing-(c) Heating, Chiselling, Filing and Finishing-Designs . . 14-21 SECTION V FINISHED PRODUCTS Ornament Type-Speciality of Different Centres-Size and Shape-Traditional Type- Price-Production 22-28 SECTION VI MARKETING Sale Procedure-Agenc:y-Sale 29-30 SECTION VII ECONOMIC CHARACTERISTICS Capital Investment-Source of Capital-Cost of Production-(i) Pokhani/Toti-(ii) ChhadaJ Sankala-(iii) Pan Dabo-Wage Structure 31-33 SECTION VIII ORGANISATIONAL CHARACTERISTICS Structure of the Craft-Association and Cooperation-Cooperative Society-Members~ip- Capital Structure-Training-Akhil Hind Shrimali Soni Mahamandal Training InstJtute~ Rajkot-Shri Vishvakarma Hunnarshala-Rajkot Engraving School No. I-Bhanvad Pattam Soni Gnati Hunnarshala 34-37 SECTION IX CONCLUSION 38-39 APPENDIX I Tables 43-45 APPENDIX II Biographies 46-48 GLOIS.AllY 49-50 INDEX 51-52

LIST OF STATEMENTS IN TEXT

STATEMENT Establishments and workers engaged in manufacture of jewellery, silverware and wares using gold and other precious metal, Gujarat . 8 II Castewise distribution of households 9 III Raw materials 12 IV Tools and implements 14 V Distribution of centres according to types of ornaments and wares 23 VI Particulars of different types of ornaments 23-27 VII Price index of fashion articles 28

LIST OF TABLES IN APPENDIX I

TABLB I Distribution of surveyed households 43 II Distribution of family members according to age, sex and earning status 43 III Literacy according to age and sex 44 IV Workshops 44 V Distribution of artisans' families according to income group 45 ILLUSTRATIONS

PLATE I Silver bar. and silver nugget Between pages 40-41 II Silver sheet, wire and bar III Tools IV Tools and implements V Traditional design on a silver pendant known as potaliya-a neck ornament worn by Kanbi woman VI 1 to 5. Traditional designs of pendants-a neck ornament called 'potaliya'; 6. F.ront and 7. Rear of 'pokhani' an ear ornament VII Some more designs VIII T.raditional designs in pendants IX Wire-drawing-a manual operation X Winding wire to make a coil XI Flattening the wire XII Heating XIII Top: Checking with the help of design drawn on paper Bottom: Flattening the sheet XIV Arranging wire according to the delign prior to soldering XV Soldering XVI Cutting silver sheet into shape XVII Making of a chain XVIII Affixing hooks to 'potaliya' XIX Fixing chain to 'potaliya' XX Removing redundant parts XXI P&lishing with a brush in soap-nut water XXII Soldering the pieces of a chain XXIII Filing XXIV Final touch TRADITIONAL ORNAMENTS (PLATES XXV-LV)

XXV 1. Tholia; 2 and 3. Taroti XXVI Top and Bottom: Front and back of 'kokarva'-an ear ornament XXVII Necklace with leaf-like pendant and coins worn by tribals XXVIII 'Hansadi', a beautifully designed neck ornament XXIX 1. Hansadi; 2. Ekdami XXX Madaliyu XXXI Kadu (Armlet) with tiger head XXXII 1. Armlet; 2. Vank and 3. Bangle XXXIII Plastic bangles, beautifully designed and set with motifs in gold and !i1ver XXXIV 1 and 4. Bedi; 2. Kadan and 3. Girdle (Kandoro) XXXV Kambi (Anklet) XXXVI Beautifl.llly designed anklets XXXVII Artistic shapes of anklets XXXVIII Different types of anklet (Toda) XXXIX Varieties of anklet. XL Langar (Anklets) XLI Ornaments: I. Chudi; 2. Kataria; 3. Vadhlo; 4 and 6. Bhorinda; 5. Earrings and 7. Hansadi XLII Bangles, ear ornaments and necklaces XLIII Ear ornaments, necklaces and bangles: I, 2 and 4. Toti (Ear ornaments);.3 and 7. Necklaces; 5. Anklet (Kalli) and 6. Vintla XLIV Ear, neck and arm ornaments: 1. Bracelet (Sarai); 2. Balaiya; 3 and 5. Anklets (Kadu); 6, 7, Band 10. Earrings; 4 and 11. Necklaces; 9. Kada; 12. Ponchi; 13. Vintla and 14. Armlet (Kadu) vi ILLUSTRATIONS-,"ontd. Between pages 40-41 PLATE XLV Top: 1 and 2. Balaiyas; 3 and 4. Armlets (Kambi); 5 and 6. Anklets (Kada); 7 and 8. Jhanjhar Bottom: Different types of 'kalla' worn on feet by Marwadi and Bharwad women XLVI 1 and 4. Necklaces; 2. Jhanjhar; 3. Earring; 5. Bracelet and 6. Button set with chain XLVII Top: 1. Vadhlo and 2. Earrings Bottom: Hand and neck ornaments XLVIII Traditional necklace XLIX VarioUJ types of traditional necklaces L I and 2. Bangles (Kada); 3. Neck ornament (Hamadi); 4 and 5. Earrings LI 1 and 5. Kanthi; 2, 3 and 4. Earrings and 6. Pendant in fish shape LII Modern set o{ 'Jadtar' t1nlay work): 1. Necklace; 2 and 3. Ear-tops and 4. Bracelet LUI I and 3. Earrings; 2. Nose-pin; 4. Necklace; 5 and 6. Ponchi; 7 and 8. Kangan (Bangles); 9 and 10. Pendants LIV 1. Patla (Bangles); 2. Kangan (Bangles); 3. Necklace and 4. Earrings LVI. Traditional ornaments on display for sale by a silversmith MODtRN ADAPTATION OF TRADlnONAL DESIGNS (PLATES LVI-LXXIII) LVI 'Tanmaniyu' adapted to modern fashion LVII Kandora (Girdle) and ear ornaments LVIII 1. Kangani and 2. Madaliyu LIX Jayshree fancy set : 1. Har; 2. Earrings and 3. Bracelet LX 1. Necklace; 2. Earrings and 3. Finger-ring LXI Jayshree Ghugharu set: I. Neck ornament; 2. Earrings and 3. Bracelets LXII Hansadi worked in enamel LXIII Enamelled set: I. Hansadi; 2. Bangles (Kada) and 3. Earrings LXIV Enamelled set: 1. Bracelet; 2. Hansadi; 3. Earrings; 4. Finger-ring and 5. Kada (Bangles) LXV Katak set: 1. Bracelet; 2. Har; 3. Earrings and 4. Finger-ring LXVI Top: Katak necklace Bottom: 'Pan-no-necklace' LXVII JaYlhree fancy set in traditional style: I. Collar; 2. Earrings; 3. Finger-ring and 4. Bracelet LXVIII Armlet (Kadu) and earrings in different shapes and designs LXIX I. Armlet; 2. Kangani; 3. Kada (Bangles); 4. Earrings and 5. Button set with chain LXX I. Madaliya; 2. Kangani and 3. earrings LXXI I and 4. Baju bandha (Armlets); 2 and 3. Balaiya LXXII 1. Kalla and 2. Jhilnjhar LXXIII Pendants in traditional .hape have come into fashion also with the upper classes LXXIV Not a pendant but a key bunch LXXV A silver jug LXXVI Arti (A silver lamp with a handle) LXXVII Specimens of Kutch work-A silver coffee set LXXVIII A silver w~ne jar wrought into a beautiful design of Kutch work LXXIX A silver jug LXXX A 'hookah' covered with silver sheet LXXXI Traditional neckwear of a tribal LXXXII Their ornaments, their pride and pleasure LXXXIII Traditional ornament. have their own charm LXXXIV They please those who wear them and those who look at them LXXXV Woman bedecked with traditional ornaments

vii

FOREWORD

One of the first steps to be taken in the study may well reveal that it is perhaps cheaper First Five Year Plan was the establishment of from the social point of view to develop industrial six boards for the promotion of handicrafts, skills from scratch than to try to graft traditional village and small industries: (1) The Khadi and skill on alien soil. A ra ther tragic case of Village Industries Board; (2) The All-India failure to make what would on the face of it Handicrafts Board; (3) The All-India Hand­ seem a minor adjustment cast its heavy shadow loom Board; (4) The Central Silk Board; (5) on the nation when it was discovered that The Coir Board; and (6f The Small Indu­ goldsmiths used to working on 22-carat gold all stries Board. their lives felt sadly helpless when asked to The rapid expansion of the activities of these work on 14"carat, so narrow and unadaptable Boards which concentrated not only on produc­ were the limits of their skill and proficiency tion and techniques, but also on organisation, and so rudimentary the tools and equipment extension, credit, marketing, and export, conso­ with which they and their forefathers had worked. lidated and enlarged the position that the This fiscal accident revealed that tools are .even household industries sector had so long enjoyed more important than skills. in the nation's economic life. It was this fact An early opportunity was therefore taken tha t forced itself upon the preparations for the in February 1960 to suggest to State Census 1961 Census and demanded that household Superintendents, that the Census provided a industry should be separately investigated for a unique opportunity for conducting and document­ proper accounting of the nation's manpower, ing a survey of this kind. As such a survey was resourceS and its specific contribution to the quite outside the usual terms of reference of Census national income. The 1961 Census therefore work it was thought prudent cautiously to feel asked a special series of questions on household one's way with the thin end of the wedge of industry, input of family and hired labour, what woluld, it was hoped, prove to be an and the periods over which household exciting pursuit. It was therefore considered industry is conducted. It was felt, however, that the wiser course to wait until the State Census an enumeration of the total number of establish­ Offices felt so interested that they would no ments and their industrial classification would longer take the inquiry as an imposition but be incomplete without a proper description of rather want to do it on their own and ask for what they produce and how they produce. the necessary staff and equipment. This office, It was important to make an assessment of the too, in its turn, could make use of the interval limits of rigidity within which traditional skill to organise and elaborate the design of inquiry operates. This could be obtained by studying' in order to feed the appetite that work in the caste, occupational, social and economic progress would serve to whet. Because it was a stratifications, the limitations of credit and labour of love, sought to be unobtrusively thrust marketing facilities, the dominance of custom over on one's colleagues and because the inquiry contract, the persistence of traditional tools and itself was so vast that normally it would demand design forms, the physical limitations of transport, in any country as big a set-up; if separately communication and mobility, the inability to established, as the Census organisation itself and adopt new lines or adapt to changing circum­ that over a much longer period, and because stances. It was important also to make an it was almost a poineer venture, nothing like it assessment of the limits of flexibility that having been undertaken since the 1880's, it was traditional skill is capable of, because the decided to move towards a build-up by stages, transformation of tradi tional skills to modern to let the inquiry unfold itself only as fast as skills is easier said than done and a through my colleagues chose to ask for more. FOREWORD

Thus, in the first circular of 18 February, Mention has been made of a questionnaire in 1960, it was suggested that the inquiry might three parts and thirty questions. The idea was be conducted through the agency of the to make a beginning with empirical, analytical Development Department, the State Director of studies based on a structured questionnaire Industries, the Director of Tribal Welfare, the which would replace general descriptive accounts Registrar of Cooperative Societies, and other orga­ that had obtained so far. The primary aim nisations concerned with the promotion of house­ was to obtain a picture as much of the artisan hold industry. A draft questionnaire containing himself as of his craft, to obtain a perspective of 30 questions in three parts was recommended the artisan and his craft in his social and for canvassing. It was suggested that information economic setting, the extent to which tradition on this questionnaire, village by village and bound l?-im and the winds of change ruffled. area by area, might either be obtained through him, the extent of his mobility and immobility, the regular departmental channels of the State the conditions of market, credit, new contacts Government, or through the newly set up Census and designs in which he operated, the frame organisation, or through the hierarchy of the of new as well as traditional producer-customer newly-created Panchayats. Stress was laid on relationships in which he still worked, and how the need of photographic documentation and far he was ready to pierce his own caste-tribe illustration of designs, shapes and forms not only' socio-economic cocoon and make a break by photographs bu t with the help of line through to new opportunities promised by the drawings or sketches together with a full Five Year Plans. The aim was to hold up the description of the materials used. mirror to hereditary skills struggling with the Almost the whole of 1960 and the first half dialectics of tradition and change. of 1961 were spent in organising and taking Th us the first part of the questionnaire, purport­ the Census count, although several States even ing to be a village sched~le, sought to take account during this period had not allowed the grass of the size and population of the village, its to grow under their feet but made exploratory remoteness from a proximity to centres of trade studies and decided in their minds how the and commerce, in short, the degree of isolation in inquiry should be organised. A series of regional which the artisan worked, and the relative conferences held in Trivandrum, Darjeeling and strengths of various communities in the village Srinagar in May and June 1961 revealed much which would afford clues to social interdependence enthusiasm among State Superintendents to and the prevalence of the jajmani system. The proceed with the survey, but the need of second part was devoted to artisan communi ties separate staff and equipment was felt at the in the village: the several castes of artisans, the same time as the realization dawned that this number of families in each, the total number of was much too serious an inquiry to be treated workers,. males and females, the extent of casually and left to be achieved through the cooperative activity among them, the extent of usual administrative channels and State Census dependence upon employers and of wage of Superintendents proceeded to augment their contract labour. There were questions on the raw staff with qualified research and investigating materials used, the means of their procuremen t, the officers, technical persons, photographers. artists, possible extent of dependence on others for raw draughtsmen and other trained personnel. materials, the extent of the material that artisans This was fonowed by rapid progress in can handle within the limits of their skill. There coordination between the Central and State were other questions on the exchange and flow CensuS Offices in the matter of exchange and of designs, the use of colours, the ancientness of processing of information, documentation and the craft and legends associated, the colonization investigation, of assisting each other with trained of the craftsman, on patrons and customers and investigators and editing and finalizing drafts, on social and economic contact with the layouts, presentations. world inside and outside the village. There

x FOREWORD were specific questions on the workshop itself and handicrafts obtaining in their State. As for the particularly the tools and the source of supply of specific crafts to be inves tigated several tables these tools, because it was felt that tools decide were devised from the structured questionnaire everything and are the surest index of inertness in order to guide investigators toward pointed or flexibility. Separate blocks of questions were observation and analysis, to enable them to designed to bring out the ramifications of write, not just general descriptions, but with artisan castes throughout the country and the their eye on the object and on facts. ways they sustained themselves, the type of clientele they catered for, the extent to whicn Investigations conducted between September they operated on money or barter or service, 1961 and May 1962, including a study group how specialized their craft was, how wide the of all States and the Social Studies Division in market, how dependent they were on their December 1961 at Delhi, stimulated many of socially preordained clientele and how restricted the States into going in for a much enlarged the latter was by the seemingly unalterable schedule. The revised village schedule itself, the laws of social custom; the extent to which coun terpart of the first part of the February they could operate in the open market, the 1960 schedule, contained 19 large sections range of their wares and the sizes to which containing elaborate and probing questions. The these were ordinarily restricted either by the Family Schedule for practising artisan families limits of their own skill or the length of their similarly contained 19 main questions each customer's purse-strings. Inquiries were to be subdivided into many questions. The Family made about the operation of middlemen and Schedule for non-practising artisan families of cooperative societies, the people who gave contained 21 questions. There were schedules new designs and demanded new products. for the study ofcooperative societies, of production­ Finally the several stages of production of the cumMtraining centres, and of consumer's prefe­ articles themselves were to be fully described rence. This enlarged schedule of investigation, in including the final and finishing stage and a the formulation of which the States themselves list of very skilled craftsmen of each community actively assisted, was greatly welcomed.Thesurveys was to be furnished. The third part was devoted that will appear in this series will therefore consist specially to tribal communities and designed to of two main types: (a) those based on the original find out how self-sufficient or dependent they short schedule and (b) those based on the much were on the production and supply of manufa­ enlarged schedule. In some cases Census Superin­ ctured goods, the extent to which they produced tendents felt enthused enough to scrap the work themselves or depended on others, their con tacts based on the original short schedule and do it over with other communities and the specific forms again on the enlarged schedule. In the meantime of production and commerce through which these much experience was gained on the analysis of contacts were maintained. facts and figures to clothe each observation with Particular emphasis was laid on the need of plenty of authentic information so that the reader obtaining as full an account as possible of could make his own judgement instead of being unique regional design differentiations as they expected to see all the time through another reflect not only the very culture patterns of the pair of eyes. country but the persistent inventive faculties of This programme of survey of handicrafts the craftsmen. The importance was emphasised and household industries has been fortified by of giving full attention to articles of domestic several ancillary surveys, each one of which use as it is in their shapes, designs and forms would deserve major attention. Along with the that the culture patterns and traditional skills survey a compilation has been made of all persist most tenaciously. handicraft centres in each State and an inventory Simultaneously with the investigation of prepared of skilled craftsmen. Photographic specific crafts, State Superintendents proceeded and other documentation has been built up to to compile a comprehensive list of all types of constitute what may now be regarded as the FOREWORD most considerable repository in the country. complete inventory, replete with sketches and Elaborate and accurate maps of craft centres measurements of every object, has been prepared in taluks, tehsils and districts are either ready of exhibits in museums of tribal crafts in India. or under preparation. A full census of all fairs There has been a fairly satisfactory survey of houses and festivals, weekly hats and markets, throughout and buildings, indigenous architectual designs India, has been taken and is being published and use of local building mi1.terial of the whole for the first time. Andhra Pradesh has em barked country. All this has been entirely a labour of upon a project of chronicling the social and love, patiently organised and executed under religious antiquity and uniqueness of every fair great strain and in disregard of health and and festival. A separate volume will be devoted to comfort, for which I take this opportunity of each district which promises to be of the utmost expressing my appreciation and grateful thanks value to sociologists and orientalists. A full and to my colleagues.

NEW DELHI, ASOK MITRA, Registrar General, India. JULY 30, 1964.

xii PREFACE

Handicrafts have always played a significant role in the life of the people of this land. India is essentially_ a land of villages where the entire economic structure is based primarily on agriculture supplemented by crafts either as a whole or part-time activity. Besides producing articles of utility, handicrafts in India have acquired great fame and popularity for their artistic excellence. And Gujarat has been well-known in the country and abroad for its crafts since ages. A special study, therefore, of the selected crafts in this region along with the 1961 Census offered a good scope of finding out what they were in the past and are capable of in present times.

This monograph embodies the results of a comparative study in the making of traditional silver ornaments and artwares at 7 centres in Gujarat. It is one of the crafts selected for intensive study besides others taken up for general study. The earlier publications which include monographs on crafts for general as well as special study relate to:

(i) Agate Industry of Cambay, (viii) Crochet Work of Jamnagar, (ii) Wood Carving of Gujarat, (ix) Sujani Weaving of Broach, (iii) Patara Making at Bhavnagar, (x) Soap Making at Kapadvanj, (iv) Ivory Work of Mahuva, (xi) Mashru Weaving of Patan, (v) Padlock Making at Sarva, (xii) Glass Work at Kapadvanj, (vi) Scale Making of Savarkundla, (xiii) Jari Industry of Surat and (vii) Perfumery at Palanpur, (xiv) Transparent Lacquer Work of Sankheda.

Besides. the field staff and other members of the Census Organhation who have contributed to this survey, I must also acknowledge the useful comments offered by Dr. Roy Burman, Officer on Special Duty, while going through the draft monograph as also to Shri Asok Mitra, Registrar General and Census Commissioner, India, for his valuable guidance in the organisation of this survey in Gujarat.

R. K. TRIVEDI, AHMEDABAD, Superintendent of Census Operations, October II, 1968. Gujarat.

xiii

SECTION I INTRODUCTION

ornam8nts. Numerous representations of Hindu INTRODUCTORY gods and goddesses and other deities so far 1.1 HANDICRAFTS IN INDIA have an importance excavated all over India and a study of Ajanta of their own. They represent a great tradition paintings reveal extensive use of ornaments of and cultural heritage of the country. Manufacture a variety of shapes and designs. Even the code of ornaments is one of the most prosperous and of Manu, probably about 2,000 years old, age-old handicraft of India. Love of mankind contains a description of jeweller's art. As to adorn the body with ornaments is innate. described in Handicrafts and Industrial Arts of Primitive man who had not the means to satisfy India, "It is certain that finger rings have his inherent desire turned to his surrounding been in common use in India since very early for personal adornment. He painted various parts ages, and even the Br;:,hmins of old who of the body with liquid mixture of vegetable dwelt in the dark jungles and lived a life colours, made from turmeric powder, kumkum of utter simplicity, used to wear rings made or chandan for tatooing. The cowry or sea-shell, of the khus (Saccharum spontaneum) grass."2 stone, wood, glass and clay beads, cotton, silk "Wealth inevitably brings luxury in its and woollen threads and thin wooden pieces train. Megasthenes observes that the Indians were the usual means of adornment, before the 'love finery and ornament'. Their robes are invention of brass, copper, silver and gold worked in gold and ornamel'l ted with precious ornaments. stones, 2.nd they wear aIm flowered garments 1.2 It is rather difficult to say exactly when made of the finest muslin ...... jewels and precious and where the art of gold and silversmithy stones, like diamond, ruby, etc., used as 6,.­ started. Going through the pages of history it naments by men and women; 2nd costly is found that the craft was started won after utensils made of beryl, crystal, gold, silver, the discovery of metal. "Both men and women copper and glass, some of them being painted used various ornamen ts made of gold, silver, and set with jewels ...... give a fair idea of the copper and other well-known metals, shell, faience ease and luxury of Indian life, and the with beads of semi-precious stones such as height to which materialistic civilisation had carnelian, steatite, agate, chalcedony, jasper, reached in olden days."3 amazon, lapis lazuli, turquoise, amethyst, etc. 1.3 As described in the History of Mediaeval These were marked by variety of designs Hindu India, 'If the Indian people wore simple and high technical skill. Men wore fillets, dress they were very fond of ornaments. In necklaces, finger-rings and armlets, while the fact the t,:ste of the Indian people is in this women decorated themselves, in addition, with respect exactly the reverse of the people head-dress, earrings, bangles, bracelets, girdles, of the West (who spend more on dress ihan and anklets. The ladies at Mohenjodaro were on ornaments). Contrasted with the simplicity not probably far behind their sisters of the of their dress and habits Hiuen Tsang thus present day in culture of beauty."l Various speaks of their ornaments. The ornaments kinds of ornaments are mentioned in Rigved. of the kings and grandees are very extraordi­ The great classics like the Ramayan and the nary. Garl 'nds and tidras of precious stones Mahabharat, also refer to various types of are their head ornamen is and their bodies

1. MAJU'I4DAR, R. C., Ancient India, p. 21, 1952 2. MBHTA, RUSTOM J., Handicrafts and Industrial Arts of India, p. 16, 1960 3. MAJUMDAR, R. C., op. cit., pp. 230-231 E-l 2 SECTION I-INTRODUCTION

are adorned with rings, bracelets and necklaces. number of places well-known for the art of Wealthy merchantile people have only bracelets making modern and traditional ornaments, (Watters 1.P. 51). Even now the rage for artwares and setting of precious stones in the ornaments in India is excessive, though perhaps State. Rajkot and Paddhari in Rajkot dis­ want of gold and precious stones hils now compel­ trict, Palitana in Bhavnagar district, Anjar, led men to go about without ornaments. But Bhuj, Mandvi in Kutch district and Nadiad merchants, sardars and princes even now in Kaira district are some of the important wear profusion of ornamets according to their centres' besides Ahmedabad. Palitana specia­ means. The tiara, however, has now disap­ lises in fixing metal plates especially silver­ peared and properly enough as perhaps since plates on carved wooden articles mostly used the days of the Mahomedans there has been in Jain temples. The fame of engraved silver­ no crowned king as such, (except Shivaji wares of Kutch, popularly known as 'Kutch­ alone) in India. Harsha is said by Bana to work' has spread far and wide in India and have put on one bracelet indicative of his abroad. The silver artwares including tradi­ sovereignty but strangely enough is not said tional and modern ornaments made at Pad­ to have put on\ a crown. He was presented dhari are in demand even in foreign countries. with: a necklace of big pearls by Dlvakara~ Among in five leading centres of India famous mitra as a fitting person to wear such a for the manufacture of silver ornaments, Raj­ priceless ornament. Armlets or Angadas have kot ranks third in order-(i) Madras, (ii) also not been noticed by Hiuen Tsang though Salem (Madras), (iii) Rajkot, (iv) Kolhap~r they are by Bana as also Kundalas and and (v) Ahmedabad. The subject matter of Keyuras or earrings. The case of women is this monograph is the result of a compara­ different. They, even the poorest in India, tive study in the making of traditional and must have some ornaments on their person modern silver ornaments and artwares at 7 while as for rich women, they havti: a pro­ centres in Rajkot, Bhavnagar, Kutch and fusion of gold, pearl and stone ornaments."! Kaira districts conducted in May 1961 followed 1.4 History thus bears testimony to the by further inves.tigation during succeeding years. fact that man's fascination for ornaments is LOCATION age-old. Before gold came into use, copper and iron, ivory and agate were in vogue as 1.6 The details of location and other parti. the medium of ornaments. With the passage culars pertaining to these centres are glVen of time, gold and silver took their place and below. ornaments made of gold and silver became (i) Rajkot more popular on account of the permanency of their colour and lustre. Situated on 22° 18' North latitude and 70° 5' 1.5 Ornaments made of gold and silver East longitude, Rajkot is an important metre served a dual purpose in the past. They gauge railway junction in the centre of Saurashtra satisfied the innate love of adornment and peninsula, from where railway lines branch also served as insurance against evil days when off to Wankaner, Jamnagar and Gondal. It is they could be converted into ready cash. With also a similar nerve centre of State Road the advent of banking facilities and peoples' Transport Service in all directions, being on increasing faith in them, this form of invest­ the National Highway from Ahmedabad to ment became less prevalent. Making of orna­ Porbandar and State Highways froIp. Rajkot ments is not only a craft but an art-craft prac­ to Jamnagar and Bhavnagar. It has also. an tised not only in towns, and cities of Gujarat aerodrome served by air services from Bombay, but even in most of the rural area where a Jamnagar, Bhuj and Gandhidham. silversmith/goldsmith, occupies a respectable Rajkot has been the political capital of place in the village community. There is a Saurashtra peninsula ever since the 'advent of

1. VAmYA, C. U., Hi4tlJ'Y of M,di4e,al Hilldu India, Vol. I, p. 92, 1921 LOCATION 3

British sovereignty in the region. It was in with Bhavnagar and other near-by towns. Pali­ Rajkot that the nationalist movement of Satya­ tana is well-known for its rose flowers, harmo­ graha for responsible Government was started niums, lever locks and silver work especially in 1938-39. Rajkot reached its climax in the patronised by the Jain temples. political field in 1948 when it became Shetrunjaya is the most sacred pilgrim the temporary capital of Part-B State centre of the Jains who call it Siddhakshetra. of Saurashtra and the divisional headquarters It is a hill that lies about a mile south of the after the reorganisation of States in 1956. town. This is the most sacred of the five Among the six cities of Gujarat, Rajkot stands sacred hills of the Jains. Kinlock Forbes, the 4th having a population of 194,145 pcnons ac­ author of Ras Mala refers to it as the "first of cording to 1961 Census. It has been a mar­ all places of pilgrimages, the bridal hall of keting centre since long but recently industrial those who would win everlasting rest." The development is taking place especially in the author of Kathiawar Gazetteer points out that sphere of small-scale industries. A number of owing to the sanctity of this hill, Jains from small engineering units is established there. all parts of India are most anxious to con­ Rajkot boasts of the first Industrial Estate in struct temples on this hill and all members of India, having liD sheds let out to small this faith feel it a duty to, if possible, industrial establishments producing machinery, perform one pilgrimage here during their life. spare parts, hand pumps, barbed wire, machine The entire summit of the hill is covered with tools, diesel engines, wall-clocks, electric acces­ numerous Jain temples. Most of the temples sories, plastic articles and cotton yarn. The .... ere built in the 11 th century but destroyed Small Industries Service Institute and a Proto­ in the 14th and 15th centuries and the type Centre producing machine tools provide present shrines were built in the 16th century. valuable guidance and assistance to small in­ Magnificently built with marble, they are dustries. This shows that Rajkot because of palatial and have beautiful carvings, the best its central location in the peninsula and other of their kind in Gujarat. Because of these favourable factqrs has been fast developing in Burgess calls Palitana 'a city of temples'. There the industrial field after Independence. is a shrine of Angor Pir on the summit of the hill where childless women take a vow to (ii) Paddhari (Rajkot district) offer miniature cradles for getting children. Paddhari is a mahal headquarters situated on (iv) Anjar (Kutch district) the east bank of the river Dondi about 18 miles north of Rajkot on the State Highway from Situated on 23° 12' North latitude and 70° 10' Rajkot to Jamnagar. It is a railway station on East longitude, Anjar is a railway station on the the Rajkot-Okha metre gauge section of the Bhuj-New Kandla section of the Western Railway. Western Railway. It is also connected with It is the taluka and subdivisional headquarters Jamnagar, Rajkot, Dhrol, etc., by bus services. with a population of 23,301 and covers an area Formerly the merchants of Paddhari carried on a of 3.50 sq. miles. considerable trade in oil and oil-seeds with Jodiya. Anjar was founded in 805 A.D. by Ajepal, Covering an area of 6.22 sq. miles Paddhari brother of the king Ajmer, who became an ascetic has a population of 4,069 persons. after being defeated by some Muslim invaders. In the latter half of the 16th century it rose (iii) Palitana (Bhavnagar district) to much importance under Khengarji and was Situated on the foot of mount Shetrunjay on fortified in the first half of the 18th century. the south bank of Khari (a tributary of the Anjar had often succumbed to earthquakes Shetrunji), Palitana is a taluka and subdivi­ in 1819, 1844, 1845, 1874, 1941 and the last in sional headquarters having a population of 1956 when the loss of life and property was 24,581 and covers an area of 12.95 sq. miles. It tremendous and unparallel. A new township is a terminus of Sihor-Palitana metre gauge has come up after the last earthquake by the railway section and is also connected by bus joint efforts of the Govelllment and the people. 4 SECTION I-INTRODUCTION

The shrines of Jesar and Turi popularly Ahmedabad broad gauge line of the western known as Jesal-Toral stand in Anjar to this day. rZlilway, is the largest town in K(lira district. Anjar is an important trading centre with a textile Situated on the National Highway No.8 it is mill and cotton-ginning and pressing factories. well-connected by State Transport buses with Ahmedabad, the State capital,· Baroda, Godhra (v) Bhuj (Kutch district) and all importan t towns in the district. It has a Situated On 23° 15' North latitude and 69° 49' population of 78,952 souls according to the Census East longitude, Bhuj is a town having a popula­ of 1961. tion 0[40,180 persons. It is a terminus on Bhuj­ Nadiad which covers an area of 28.28 sq. km. New Kandla section of the Western Railway and was one of the brgest and the thriving towns the headquarters of the State Road Transport of Gujc,rat in the 19th century, and ranked next Division. It is connected by regular bus services only to Ahmedabad as an important trading with most of the ta1uka headquarters and other centre. During 1917-18, at the time of Kaira important places in Kutch. It is also served by Satyagraha, when Ga.ndhiji led the movement regular air service \vith Jamnagar, Rajkot and against oppressive levy ofland revenue, he selec­ Bombay. It was the capital of the former Kutch ted Nadiad <',5 his headquarters, which became State and is today the district and taluka head­ an important landmark in the- struggle for quarters of Kutch district. Independence. Great Bhuj fort is the most striking character­ Nadiad is a centre of considerable trade and istic of the landscape around the town. It has commerce. Situated in the fertile tract of Cha­ historic buildings like Fetch Mahmad's house, rotar well-known for its progressive agriculture, his tomb, Muhammed Panna Masjid, the Dar­ its main corps are food-grains and tobacco. bargadh, the Aina Mahal, and Ra Lakha's There are several bidi factories also. Apart from Chhatri which are beautiful specimen of the being the biggest market of grocery in the old architecture which flourished in Kutch. district, it is one of the important trading centres (vi) Mandvi (Kutch district) of India dealing in cumin and fennel seeds exported to Delhi, the Punjab and other parts of Thirty five miles away from Bhuj, and on the North India. There is a large number of esta­ confluence of the river Rukmavati with the sea, blishments manufacturing silverwares, iron safes, Mandvi situated on 22° 49' North latitude and soap, furniture, brass and copper vessels and 69' 20' East longitude covers an area of 14.89 sq. iron articles. Making of steel furniture claims the km. It is the headquarters of Mandvi taluka biggest factory in Gujarat. Making of snuff, coir and is also called Kutch Mandvi. ropes and bamboo baskets are the other handi. Mandvi h2_s been known as a good port crafts of the place. since long. For centuries past this port was con­ sidered to be a good trading centre. Its mer­ ANTIQ,UITY OF THE CRAFT chants steered their vessels long ago to the r. 7 No definite detail about the significant shores of Africa and exchanged their cargoes of history of the cen tres, bearing on the history of rough cotton cloth and silk for ivory and other the craft is available. But various legends are articles. Bhatias and Vani2s of Mandvi had made afoot regarding the beginning of the craft at their fortune in Zanzib<:;,r and Mombasa. It was the different centres. As has been stated by the local principal and important port of Kutch before craftsman of Bhuj, some craftsmen working in the partition of India, which brought to an end gold and silver ornaments are said to have its trade with Karachi. Development of Kandla migrated from Rajasthan. The language spoken has also reduced its former importance to some even now by them is similar to the language extent. spoken in Rajasthan. According to them beca use of a famine in Rajasthan about 500 years ago, (vii) Nadiad (Kaira district) people from some of the States like Jodhpur, Nadiad, 22° 42' North latitude and 75° 52' Sirohi, Jesalmer and Bikaner migrated to other East longitude, ajunction station on the Bombay- parts of the country for earning their bread. ANTIQUITY OF THE CRAFT 5

Some of them came to Kutch and settled there. 1.9 The craft of silver work is practised at These people were expert in making ornaments Palitana for the last 60 to 65 years. The local and so the Maharao of Kutch patronised them. legend regarding the origin of the craft is 2.S In Mandvi it is said to h2.ve been started about under: 400 years ago, while in Anjar the craft is believed Four brothers, namely, (1) Dharmasinh Premji, to have existed since the town was [cur d{d in (2) R::\Ir~ji Premji, (3) Daya Premji and (4) 805 A. D. by Ajepal. The origin of reput{d Kutch Chaku Premji, were doing blacksmithy at Ran­ work can be traced to Maharao Shree Lakhapatji pur in Junagadh district. In course of time they 1741-1760 A. D., who employed one Ramsang started manufacturin g silver ornaments for Malam, who had acquired training in the art of women. After some time, they were engaged in crafts in Holland. With the assistance of Ram- silver work in Jain temple at Veraval-Patan. I sang Malam, he established industries for When they were attending to silver smithy WOl k engraving and n'.amelling work of gold and at Veraval, Mansinhji Gohel, ruler of Palitana silver, m'lnufacture of watches, guns, rifles and happelled to pay a visit to the famous Somnath glass, etc., in Kutch. Ram~ang Malam who was temple. On his return journey he happened to instrumental for their development also gave sec these four brothers doing silversmithy work training in these crafts to several people. at Veraval. He had a battered silver jug which 1.8 In Paddhari most of the 2.ftisans are he was not so far able to get repaired to his V~mia or Bania. It is said that about 300 years satisfaction by any silversmith. He ~howed the ago one family of Vania SOlli came from near-by said jug to these four brothers. Dh

11.1 THOUGH SONI and Luhar are the principal The Gujar belong to the great Gujar castes war king as silversmith and goldsmith, or Gurjar tribe, who gave their name first participation of various other castes is the pecu­ to Rajputana and then to modern Gujarat. liarity of this craft. They are Soni, Luhar, Kansara Sonis are found in Cutch. They Suthar, Kansara, Maru-Kansara, Mochi, Gosai, are Kansaras by caste, who have taken to Salat, etc. Soni includes Brahman Soni, Vania the goldsmith's calling, and in several Soni, Parajiya Soni and Girana Soni. The force villages in Cutch they alone are the village of circum~tances has compelled some of the so goldsmiths ...... They appear to be in called higher castes like the Brahmins and process of forming a separate caste, and in Kshatriyas to' liberalise their attitude in the Marwar they have already done so byadopt­ m3.tter of orthodox adherence to caste principles ing the name Brahmaniya Soni. Maratha and practise this craft. Since most of the Sonars are found in very small numbers workers belong to Soni and Luhar castes who are here and there. They are said to have the tradition.al manufacturers of ornaments, settled in Gujarat during Maratha rule, hi;toric::d leg~nd r~g ,rdin.g their origin and settle­ between 1711 and 1727 A. D. They have ment, etc., is briefly reviewed below. not mixed with Gujarat Sonis. Their home speech is Marathi and their dress, habits SONI and customs are the same as Maratha A~ rega.rds Sonis, Enthoven observes: Sonars. Mel Sonis are found in Kathiawar. "The term Soni connotes an occupa­ They claim to be the first Ad Sonis and tion which is followed by many other to have been created by Parvati castes besides Sonis, such as Luhars, Sutars, from the dirt mel of her body. Marus or Kansaras, Mochis, etc., who are called Marwaris as their name shows, are inuni­ Luhar Sonis, Sutar Sonis, and so on. Out grants from Marwar. Mevadas are supposed of these, the Kansara Sonis have already to be an offshoot of the Mevada Vanias. evolved an endogamous group in Marwar. Parjias, called after the village of Parjar and the others perhaps may, at a ngt about twenty-four miles south of J~agadh, distant date, do the same, as the occupa­ claim to be Raj puts. They are supposed tion of a Soni is more respectable than that by some to have come from Persia, on of a Luhar, Sutar, Mochi,.etc. Many of the account of the reverence they show to fire, Mochis have already formed distinct groups but this theory is difficult to accept as by taking to cleaner callings and severing there is no other evidence in support of all connection with the parent caste. it, fire being worshipped more or less by Sonis have twelve endogamous divi- all Hindus. Their character and physique sions as follows: support their claim to a Rajput descent, I. Gujar 8. Mulehari and it is conjectured by some that they 2. Kansara 9. Parjia belonged to the Palhavas mentioned in 3. Maratha 10. Shrimali or Vania, Sah or Sinha inscriptions. They have· two 4. Maru also called Gujar branches (I) Garana and (2) Patni. 'The 5. Mel in Cutch first branch was founded by Gango, the 6. Mevada 11. Traged second by Nando, a Songhad Rajput. 7. Mostan 12. Vohora Nando is said to have gone to Patan during

6 SONI 7

the reign of Sidhraj Jaysing (1094-1143 Kondhia, Mandlia mild Raidhanpura, some A. D.) and so astonished the king by his named after Rajput clans, e.g., Budha Bhatti, skill that he promised Nando to give him Chhatralu Bhatti, Ghelot, Komal or Pomal, whatever he asked. Nando asked to be Parmar, Solanki, Trambela, and some after allowed to reign in Patan for three and a their occupation, as Panchigor, Luhar, half days. During these days he remitted Jataria, etc. In Gutch the Shrimalis have all taxes and set free all prisoners, and the following divisions :-Kondhia, Asam­ for these chartiable actions his descendants biac, Patania, Godhaya, and the Patnis claim immunity from givin~ alms to beg. have Dhakan, Sunsania, Jakhia, Hanjha, gars. The Garanas are found in Halar, Satpokhya, Dhoeda and Khimani divisions."! Sorath and Bhavnagar in Kathiawar, the Patnis in Gutch and Kathiawar. The LUHARS Patnis of Gutch do not like to be called "Luhars, consider themselves to be Parjias. They consider Garana Son is to be the descendants of one Pithvo, so called inferior to them, alleging that though, because he was created by Parvati out of originally of one stock, the Garanali the dust clinging to Shiv's back, to prepare adopted certain customs from castes weapons in Shiv's wars against the two of lower status, SUGh as marrying a mater­ demons Andhkar and Dhundhkar. When nal uncle's daughter. The two do not Shiv killed the demons, Pithvo turned intermarry. Shrimali Sonis or Soni Vanias their skulls into anvils, their hands into originally belonge.d to the Vania community hammers, and their lungs into bellows. of the same name. They have a tradition With these tools Pithvo repaired the axle that they are descended from a Brahman. of Shiv's chariot wheel, and, in return, They are the most respectable of all Sonis, Shiv gave him the boon that every time he and enjoy more confidence of the people cleared his furnace he would find one gold than any other Soni division. They have mohar (Rs. 15). Pith vo spoiled by this two divisions (1) Ahemedabadis and (2) wealth grew insolent and declined to mend Gharotarias. These two eat together. The Shiv's chariot. Shiv withdrew the gold Ahmedabadis used to take Gharotaria wives from the <"shes and Pithvo fell on hii but not give their daughters to Charotaria knees and begged the God's pardon. After men. The Shrimali Sonis of the Charotar much en treaty Shiv decreed that, to save have now formed gols or marriage groups Pithvo from the labour of clearing the and keep their girls within the villages furnace, however much fuel might be forming the gol. Gambay i$ one such gr;/, burnt no ashes would remain. and Mehmadabad, Kaira, Vasa, Sojitra, Among Luhars are six main divisions, Petlad and Borsad form another. Tragads four, Bhavnagris, Panchals, Sirohias, and claim descent from a Vania father and Suratis found mostly in south Gujarat, Brahman mother. In token of their past Khambhatis in central and north Gujarat, Brahman origin they wear the Brahman and Parajias in Kachh. These six divi­ thread and do not eat food cooked by sions neither eat together nor intermarry. anyone other than a Brahman. They have All speak Gujarati. two divisions-Motu or large and Nanu or The competition of European ironware small. Vohora Sonis are found in Gambay. has forced som~ Luhars to give up their They are Daudi Bohoras and are so called original calling and become silversmiths, because they do goldsmith's work. carpenters, w2.tch-repairers, weavers, and in Each of the Soni divisions proper have some cases field and day labourers. In large several exogamous sections, some of local towni some, known as Sonari Luhars, origin such as Kadi-Kalolia, Khadsaria, undertake every kind of silver work

1. ENTHOVEN, R. E., The Tribes and Castes of Bombay, Vol. III, pp. 344-347, 1922 8 SECT10N ll-CRAFT AND CRAFTSMEN

making gold and silver anklets of various STATEMENT I patterns. Establishments and workers engaged in Luhars belong to many religious sects: manufacture of jewellery, silverware and Godiapanthis, Kabirpanthis, Margipanthis, wares using gold and .other preciou. Mcherajpanthis, Ramanandis, Shaivs, metal, Gujarat Swaminarayans, and Vallabhacharyas. No' of esta- Most of them believe in witchcraft, exor~ District blishment Workers Males Females Clsm and the ordinary omem. Some of 2 3 4 5 them regard their bellows as a symbol or Gujarat 7,0.51 28,636 28,304 332 home of Devi and on big days worship (100.00) (100.00) the bellows and set near it a lamp fed Jamnagar 399 1,401 1,893 8 with clarified butter. Their priests belong (5.66) (4.89) to many divisions of Brahmans who are Rajkot 910 2,907 2,897 10 known by the name of Luhar Gors and (12.91) (10.15) are despised by other Brahmans. As a Surendranagar 412 1,177 1,176 class they are fairly religious."1 (5.84 ) (4.11) Bhavnagar 316 1,361 1,352 9 WORKING FORCE (4,48) (4.75) Amreli 238 11.2 It is rather very difficult to assess the 662 6i5 3 (3.37) (2.33) total number of households or craftsmen working Junagadh 611 1,699 1,687 12 in silver work or m purely traditional and (8.67) (5.93) modern silver work. The nature of the work is Kutch 346 1,182 1,162 20 such that most probably, silver work and gold (4.91) (4.13) work go together. The regular customer entrusts Banaskantha 155 1,13~ 1,106 27 the work of making gold and silver ornaments (2.20) (3.96) or artwares to his family goldsmith or silver­ Sabarkantha 75 753 730 23 smith in whose establishment these types of (1.06) (2.63) ornaments are being made for the customer's 11ehsana 480 1,487 1,470 17 family since generations. For these reasons, a (6.81) (5.19) goldsmith sometimes engages a silversmith for Ahmedabad 914 2,958 2,931 27 undertaking the silver work for his regular (12.96) (10.33) customers or he himself attends to it in spare Kaira 600 4,095 4,005 98 (8.51) hours. In most of the rural areas where there (14.30) Panchmahais 336 is only one craftsman, it is but natural that he 803 797 6 (4.76) (2.81) works in both gold and silver. On the other Baroda 373 1,477 1,467 10 hand, separate esta blishmen ts making silver (5.29) (5.16) articles and ornaments on a large scale are Broach 74 399 394 5 found to exist in some of the big cities and (1.05) (1.40) towns. Surat 812 5,134 5,070 64 Gold and silversmiths are generally found in (11.52) (17.93) big villages and towns. According to 1961 Dangs Census there are 7,051 establishments and 28,638 NOTE: workers engaged in the manufacture of jewellery, Figures in brackets indicate percentage~. silver and other precious metalwares in Gujarat The study carried out during 1960-61 cover­ State. The district-wise distribution given here­ ed seven centres (i) Rajkot, (ii) Paddhari, under shows that Snrat, Kaira, Ahmedabad and (Fi) Palitana, (iv) Nadiad, (v) Anjar, (vi) Bhuj Rajkot districts have large concen tration of and (vii) Mandvi where a total of 252 house­ workers than the rest of the districts in the State. holds was covered. Repeated investigations

1. CAMPBELL, JAMES M., Ga~1It1lr of the BOlfJbcy Pmir/(II&Y, Vol. IX, Part-I, Gujarat Population-Hindus, pp .190-191, 1901 LITERACY 9 were also carried out in subsequent years for cities of Gujarat, where all facilities of educa­ studying the various aspects of the craft. tion are available, Nadiad is known in the About 300 households are entirely engaged field of education and its contribution to in silver work at Rajkot. Their caste-\Vise dis­ Gujarati literature. Moreover, general awaken~ tribution is given below. ing and comparatively better economic condi~ tion of these castes is an additional factor which STATEMENT n has contributed to a relatively higher standard Caltewise distribution of households of literacy.

Caste/c.mmunity No. of households No. of workers WORKSHOP AND Dw£J..UNG 1 2 3 II.4 Re3idential pattern differs in different Soni 150 600 centres. In Paddhari the artisam are !cattered Luhar 50 160 throughout the whole village. Their residence Kumbhar 30 60 and workshop are located in separate place. Rajput 15 30 Hygienic condition of their housei and workllhops ltanbi 7 14 is quite moderate. Nearly 60 per cent of the Charan 4 8 artisans have their own houses and the remain­ Ahir 4 8 ing 40 per cent stay in hired buildings. Koli, Brahman & others 40 120 II.5 In Rajkot artisans are found to have been Total 300 1,000 working in rented workshops, admeasuring about 10'x12' to l5'x20'. The monthly rent is In most of the centres craftsmen have m. estimated to be Rs. 30 to 50. Most of the arti­ herited this occupation from their forefathers. sans live in rented houses within a radius of a They have no subsidiary occupation, as they mile from their workshops. practise the craft exclusively. In Mandvi even II.6 There are only 3 families in Palitana though most of the workers are traditionally engaged in this craft. They are all settled in the working in the craft, a few families have main bazaar, where they have their workshop­ changed their occupation, because they could mm-d wellings. not work skilfully. II.7 In Bhuj and Anjar workers are scattered in the vaflOUS parts of these towns. The work­ LITERACY shop, the smallest being B'x8' usually located II.3 Out of 1,935 family members of all in Shroff Bazaar is separate from the place of the households surveyed at the seven selected residence which is in the locality known as centres, 1,397 or 72.20 per cent are literates of Soniwad. Persons other than Soni caste also whom 804 are males and 593 are females. reside in Soniwad. Residence-cum~workshop is Among literates 203 can read and write, 1,062 quite rare case here. The residen tial buildings have taken primary education, 90 have taken are mostly owned, whereas the workshops are secondary education, 38 have passed S.S.C. mostly rented. Generally the customers trust Examination, 3 are diploma holders and 1 is a the artisan who own building. Thus the Owner­ graduate. Among 804 literate males, 108 can ship of building also forms a part of the read and write, 589 have taken primary edu­ guarantee and safety to the customers. It is cation, 71 are having secondary education, 32 not so much the hygienic condition as the have passed S.S.C. Examination? 3 are diploma safety of the precious metal that matters in the holders and 1 is a graduate. Among literate location of the \Vork~hop. females, 95 can only read and write, 473 have II.S In Mandvi, 75 per cent of premises received primary education, 19 have taken used as workshop are taken on hire and 25 secondary education and 6 are matriculates. per cent have their own workshops. They This shows that literacy standard is fairly high, are moderately ventilated. In Nadiad, gold as all the centres except Paddhari are to\Vns and silversmiths are settled in the area called whereas Rajkot happens to be one of the six Satpipli at Bhavsarwad. There are two types of E-2 10 SECTION II-CRAFT AND CRAFTSMEN

Sonis, viz., Shrimali Soni and Dhakla Soni. SOCIAL AND Pli:RSONAL CHARACT¥RIITICi Most of the Dhakla Son is have their own workshop-tum-dwelling while Shrimali SoniB II.l2 Out of a total of 1,563 households have a separate shop from their residence which estimated, 252 households have been surveyed, they generally own. Thus, it will be seen that of whom 37 are from Rajkot, 13 from Paddhari, in villages and in small towns, Sonis generally 3 from Palitana, 45 from Mandvi, practise the craft at their residence as their 31 from Anjar, 45 from Bhuj and 78 from d welling-houses are used as workshop-cum­ Nadiad. The total number of members in the residence. In highly urbanised localities and surveyed households is 1,935, of whom 431 are cities, workshops are separated from the resi­ workers and 1,504 are non-workers. Among dence and the craft is practised at the work­ workers, 424 (419 males and 5 females) are shops which is generally a hired shop in a engaged in this craft while 7 that remain work separate locality. Residences are mostly owned in other occupations. Only in Paddhad, by the craftsmen and situated a little away Mandvi and Bhuj, a few females are reported from the place of work. to have been working in this craft. Further 11.9 Out of 252 establishments those are investigations in Nadiad has revealed that surveyed, 185 .are away from the residential females are engaged in this craft in polishing houses of the artisans, while 67 have workshop­ work only. Minors are not engaged in this cum-dwelling. 152 establishments are within a craft. distance of less than a mile, 2 about a mile II.l3 Out of 1,935 persons in the house­ away from the residence, and there are 23 holds surveyed, 431 or 22.27 per cent are establishments for which nO specific distance workers and 1,504 or 77.73 per cent are has been shown. Most of the workshops ad­ non-workers. Among workers 336 or nearly 78 measure about 12' x 14' and are moderately per cent are in the working age group of 15 ventilated. to 59; whereas only 29 are 60 and above. Out of 431 workers, 426 are males and 5 females. HIRED WORKERS Among 1,504 dependents, 605 are males and 1I.10 The number of hired workers em­ 899 females. There are no workers in this craft ployed in this craft is very small. There is only in the age group of 0-10. There is only one one centre, viz., Nadiad, where out of 78 worker in the age group 10-14 which shows households engaged in this craft, 17 households that minors are not employed in this craft. engage 33 hired workers. It can be said that II.14 As the artisans have to work cons­ man-power required for this craft is available tantly sitting at One place, they require a from the family of artisans themselves. Average healthy body with sharp eyesight for minute number of persons per household being 7.67, carving and steady hands for accurate move­ artisans have not to seek outside help. ment during the work. Artisans working in 11.11 Information derived from knowledge­ this craft are foul1d to have succumbed to able persons reveals that Rajkot has 10 to 12 diseases like T.B. and cancer. Moreover as they establishments engaged in selling of gold and have to concentrate on one part of the orna­ silver, 10 to 12 in selling of silver ornaments, ment all the time, their eyes becomes weaker 5 are refineries, 25 are engaged in engraving and weaker and they have to wear spectacles and diamond setting, 10 rolling and pressing, in early ages. 100 in making of silver ornaments, and 100 in HOBBIES AND RECREATIONAL ACTIVITIES OF THE enamelling work. In addition to these, there C:RAFTSMEN are 200 shops which are making gold orna­ mentS. At Nadiad there are about 17 uniu II.15 The craftsmen in this craft are very which are entirely working in silver, of which hard workers and have no other hobbies except 3 are engaged in selling silver, 12 in selling their work. At the m05t they are accustomed silver ornaments while 2 in rolling and press­ to take tea and bidi. The Sonis are religious­ ing work; minded and in their le~ure time they engage HOBBIES OF THE CRAFTSMEN 11

themselves in bhajan-kirtan. Sometimes they pr ogranimes. They ce1e brate occasions like Divali, gather for gossiping with their friends and Holi, Janmashtami, Navratri and other holidays relatives. Because of the application of Shops of religious importance. N; a class Sonis are and Establishments Act to Municipal towns, religious and worship the gods of Hindu pan­ workshops are closed at prescribed hours on theon. Some of them are Shaivs, some are working days as also on Sundays. Thus in the Vallabhacharyas and some Swaminarayans. All evening they have leisure hours when they ha Ve their family goddesses. The family often visit parks and gardens, cinema hOWles goddesses of most of them are Vagheshvari and and participate ill other entertainment Mahalaxmi and ofothers Hinglaj, Momai and Asir. SECTION III RAW MATERIALS

III. 1 THE MAIN RAW rna terial used In the cost of Rs. 15 per lb., is now purchased making traditional silver ornaments is silver. from Amritsar and some other places in North Other subsidiary materials' required in the India. Artisans experience some difficulty in production are brass, copper, zinc, amonia, acid, procuring enamel, as Government gives import borax, shop nuts, potash, nitrate, ochre, plastic, licences to traders who charge very high prices. lac, etc. Enamel is used in the ornamen ts Licence-holders take advantage of import restri­ decorated and designed with enamel at Rajkot ctions and sell enamel at Rs. 40 to 45 per lb. and Bhuj. far in excess of their procurement price. III. 2 Previously the unit of measure for lIlA In Paddhari, main raw materials are the purchase of silver was tala and pound or bought from Rajkot. In Palitana, most of the local seer for other raw materials, but after the articIrs are made of silver. Silver, copper, introduction of the Metric system in 1957 it is brass~ zinc, etc., are purchased from local purchased in gram units. Even though the prices market as well as imported from Bhavnagar of raw materials slightly differ from centre to city. Sometimes customers also supply the centre, it is more or less the same as given in material. In Nadiad also it is available in the following statement. the local market as well as purchased from cities like Ahmedabad, Bombay and Raj kat. STATEMENT ITI IlI.5 Among the centres of Kutch, in Raw materials Mandvi raw material is bought from the local market or Bhuj, while in Bhuj it is imported (Year 1964 June) Raw materials Unit Price (in Rs.) from Ahmedabad, Bombay and Rajkot on 1 2 3 wholesale basis. In Anjar also it is sometimes Silver 10 gm. 3.00 purchased from Bombay. As described in the Copper 1 kg. 6.50 Zinc Report on Rapid Survey of Handicrafts in the " 2.50 District of Kutch, "while gold and silver are Tineal 2.00 Soap nut " 1.10 available in the local as also up country mar­ Sulphuric acid " kets at fluctuating prices, those smuggled from " 2.15 Lac 2.00 across the border have an attraction because Kerosene " Tin 8.80 they are comparatively cheaper. Another Coal 32 to 35 kg. 5.50 source of bullion, particularly silver, is the Enamel Tola 0.50 to 12.00 Cow-dung cakes . Per 100 cakes 0.50 holding of old families in the form of jewel­ Groundnut oil 1 kg. 2.15 lery and other articles, which they sell in view of the changed economic and social III.3 Silver is not available in required conditions. 'Meena' is mainly imported from quantity from the local market in all the centres. Switzerland and costs a bout Rs. 6 to 7 per In Rajkot it is locally available and so the tala. It is in short supply in the market owing artisans have not to purchase it from outside. to import restrictions. Indigenous 'Meena' Sometimes customers also supply silver, the manufactured at Calcutta is available at almost main raw material. Silver is sometimes obtain­ half the price. However, this variety is considered ed from Uttar Pradesh, Bombay and Delhi. a poor substitute."l Enamel which was imported from some of the III.6 In most of the centres precious Western countries like Britain and France at raw materials used for the purpose are supplied

1. All India H~ndicrafti Board, Bomb~y, Report lin Rapid SUYDty of Hmtdj&rafis i,. ,he Di.1tri,t of Kut,h, Gujarat State, 1961 12 RAW MATERIALS 13 by the customers and so the difficulty of raw materials is mostly in cash, but some­ storage does not arise. In some centres where times the traders give credit for 15 days to raw materials are brought from other parts, 1 month. they are preserved in a safe in the workshop. III.7 As regards the type of fuel and power Sometimes old ornamen ts are melted and then used, it has been observed that coal is the given for making new ornaments. In Palitana most important fuel used by most of the as there is no big workshop silver bullion is establishments though machinery is introduced purchased according to need or supplied by in some work like polishing, die-making, the customers who pay the labour charges. wire-drawing, etc. Analysing the distribution Due to lengthy procedures of purchase of of households surveyed, it is noticed that out bullion and sale of finished articles artisans of 252 households, 212 units are using coal, 35 prefer to make the ornaments by charging households are using electric power, and 5 for their labour. Payment of purchasing the households ha ve no t reported the type of fuel used. SECTION IV TOOLS AND TECHNIQUE cesses. There are no improved tools though I. TOOLS machinery is introduced in some work. Main IV.l TilE IMPLEMENTS used by the artisans tools and ijIlplements used in various stages of in making ornaments are very simple and for processing are given below with their use and the most part traditional in most of the prow price.

STATEMENT IV Tools and implements

SI. Price (in Rs.) No. Local term. English equivalent Use June, 1964 I 2 3 4 5 Eran Anvil Support for the metal while 10 to 125 hammering 2 Ekalvai 'T' shaped rod 5 3 Hathodo, Hathodi, " Mathanu Hammer, small hammer, square hammer Hammering 1 to 30 4 Sigro Vice Holding firmly the article to be 5 to 25 worked upon 5 Kapni Shears Cutting the metal sheets 1 to 10

6 Sansi Pincers HoldingJbending 1 to 5 7 Sano Fork Holding or picking up hot 1 to 5 substances 8 Kaidapati Stripe Design work 2 to 10 9 Sagdi Hearth Heating 50 to 100 10 Divi Lamp-stand Heating 10 to 40

11 Kanas File (rough and polished) Filling 1 to 10 12 Pech hatH Screw-vice Preparing screws 1 to 15 13 Divad ami Blower (small and big) Blowing 3 to 15 14 Adi/Dai Mould Moulding 2 to 20 15 Lagiyo Crooked iron and wooden rod Measuring and supporting 2 to 10

16 Pakad, Savadho Pliers Wire-drawing 3 to 10 17 Trak Iron spoke (spindle shaped) Preparing pipe 20 to 30 18 Shardi Drill (iron and wooden) Drilling 5 to 19 25 Pablo Half-holed sqaure For making depressions 5 to 20 20 Gotilo Round headed nail 20 to 25 " (set of 25 to 30 pieces)

21 Rejo Mould Design/ casting 5 to 7 22 Opni Polishing implement Polishing 2 to 10 23 Mus Earthen crucible For melting the metal 4 to 5 24 Asbestos nu patiyu Asbestos sheets For putting the metal 1 to 5 to be melted 25 Chhini Chisels Cutting metal 1 to 2 26 Chhipna Gravers Engraving I to 5 27 Jatardo Sizing plate (holed-stripe) Wire-drawing 4 to 8 28 Ari Saw Cutting work 5 to 29 10 Brush Brush Polishing I to 5 30 Buff pad Polishing-stripe Polishing 0.25 to 2 31 Hemri Emery Sharpening of tools 5 to 32 25 Kanta tola Scales-weigh ts Weighing 70 to 33 80 Role machine Rolling mru::hine Rolling 3,000 34 Press Pressing machine Punching 800 to 1,000 35 Motor Motor 7, H. P. and other pulleys Supplying power to the machine 3,000 14 TOOLS 15

IV.2 Tools and implements enumerated (iii) Rolling and pressing, above are found to be used in all the centres (iv) Cutting, shaping and soldering of metal of the State. Analysing the centrewise procure­ pIeces, ment of tools, it has been observed that in (v) Designing, viz., fretting, engraving, Rajkot most of the tools are available from iltone setting and enamelling, the local market. Sometimes tools like rolling (vi) Polishing. and pressing machine costing about Rs. 3,000 (i) Assaying and Rs. 800 to 1,000 respectively are pur­ IV.5 Before a gold or silver ornament is chased from Ahmedabad. Small tools are produced its assaying is very important. Rub­ prepared by local blacksmiths or are procured bing the metal on touchstone (orkal) is the from near-by towns of Muli and Limbdi. In IIJ.Qst familiar method. It is a piece of soft Paddhari required tools are not available from black stone on which gold or silver leaves a the local market and purchased from Rajkot. mark, by the colour of which the quality of These tools are manufactured mostly at Jam­ metal is judged. If there is a dark tinge in nagar, Delhi, Bombay, Calcutta, etc. In Anjar case of gold, it'is of copper alloy and if there most of the tools are manufactured by local is a whitish mark it is of silver alloy. Some­ blacksmiths but anvils and press rolls are im­ times a hole is bored in case of gold and is ported from Rajkot and Ahmedabad. In put in the furnace for sometime, after which Mandvi and Nadiad tools are mostly procured the colour of the interior indicates its quality. from cities like Bombay and Ahmedabad Silver can be tested by its ring, or by cutting though small tools are manufactured by local it. If it cuts soft, there is probably a zinc blacksmiths. In Bhuj and Palitana also simple alloy, if it cut hard, copper alloy is indicated. tools are prepared by the local blacksmiths The most thorough method is to cut the metal while others are imported from Delhi, Rajkot, and heat it, or heat it first and then cut it. Bombay, Jamnagar, Bhavnagar, etc. Copper alloy shows a blackish tinge and yellow­ IV.3 Investment made in the tools and ish colour shows zinc alloy. implements is not the same in all the centres. (ii) Alloying In a city like Rajkot where production is on a large scale, the investment comes to about IV.6 After the metal is tested, it is neces­ Rs. 20,000 to 25,000 in a rolling and pressing sary to give a certain hardness to it to make unit. This amount sometimes raises to Rs.lOO,OOO it fit for ordinary wear and tear as well as for also. In other establishments it ranges from working intricate patterns and designs on it. Rs. 500 to 2,000. In some households where In making gold ornaments, copper alloy is ladies are working at home, tools worth mixed while in silver ornaments copper, zinc Rs. 5 to 25 only are required. It is estimated and sometimes cadmium alloy is mixed. The that total investment in tools and implements proportion of alloy is not the same at all places in this craft at Rajkot comes to Rs. 120,000. and in all types of ornaments. Ornaments of It has been assessed that Rs. 250 to 300 are 100 per cent silver are also made. In preparing spen t towards the replacemen t of tools and simple dishes, cups, etc., pure silver without implements in case of a big establishment any alloy is used. It differs at differen t places whereas in case of a small unit it comes to according to the ornaments to be made and Rs. 50 to 150 on an average. their uses. As noticed in Rajkot, the prop or- . dons in which other metals are mixed with II. TECHNIQ,UE silver are: Superior quality: 97 per cen t silver + 3 IV.4 Every ornament made of gold or per cent copper; and inferior quality: 36 per cent silver has to pass through various stages of silver + 64 per cent zinc. The proportion of production. Its technique and processes may alloy in silver varies from 3 per cent to 6 per be described in the following stages. cent for ornaments of superior quality. (i) Assaying the metal, IV.7 Ornaments to be prepared out of old (ii) Mixing the metal with alloys, ornaments are first refined in furnace. They are 16 SECTION IV-TOOLS AND TECHNIQUE put III earthen crucible, tincal is added the saw which works as a blade. This method therein and then heat is given for about 10 is usually applied for perforating the ornaments minutes by blow-furnace. After the metal is and other articles. After the fret work is over, melted, it is poured in a mould which is a filing is done to remove rough pain ts on the design. long, narrow through with a handle known IV.l2 Engraving is one of the ways of decorat­ as rejo. It is thus reduced to a form which ing the ornament. For engraving, melted lac or is easy to work upon. .The metal, when tar is applied to the wooden block and the cool, comes out in a long, narrow bar which silyer sheet is stuck into it so that the sheet can readily be cut, bent or hammered as would remain in the fixed position while work­ required. The same procedure holds good for ing. With the help of a hand-graver and a ornaments made of gold as well as silver. small chisel the design is sketched and carved. Rough po in ts are then removed by file or rough (iii) Rolling and Pressing and glazed polishing paper. Emery stone u; IV.S The next stage is the rolling and pressing used to sharpen the tools in this pro~ess. It is of the rod which ~merges after the metal is refined. the proficiency of the artisan which matters The rod is passed through the machine according more than tools. Some articles require diamond. to requirement, e.g., for making a wire, it is passed setting also. The ornament is then taken out through a press machine, while for making a by melting the medium lac or coal-tar and plate, it is passed through a rolling machine. washed in solution of soda to remove the For an embossed ornament, the plate is passed particles of lac or tar attached to it. through a punch-machine. IV.l3 There are two methods of setting diamonds and precious stones viz., (i) Panchgari (iv) Designing, Shaping and Soldering and (ii) khulas. In Panchgari settings, diamonds IV.9 After sheets or wires are obtained, are set in and pressed on sides So that the design work is taken in hand. At this stage border of the metal is not seen; while in that design is superimposed on the sheet. In mak­ of khulas setting~, about six to eight or even ing traditional ornaments like bedi, toda, kallan, more diamonds are set in the metal with bor­ chhada, kandoro, etc., no new ·designs are to ders somewhat raised and pres5ed on sides. be traced but it is made by the artisan him­ Enamel Work self with the help of chisels, etc. In some ornaments, first, the design is traced on a IV.14 Gold or silver ornamen ts are often deco­ paper and then pasted with gum on the sheet rated with enamel. Enamelling is the process which-is to be designed. The artisan marks it with adopted in jewellery making by fixing multi the help of some pointed nail, whereafter, the or uni·colour designs. Enamel colours are traced paper is taken away. The design proper procured in vitreous lumps. They are cleaned is then worked with other instruments. in the solution of sulphuric acid and there­ IV.lO Soldering is also an important process after ground with pestle and mortar mixed from which most of the ornaments have to pass with water. While grinding, milky substance through. After the design work is over, designed Comes out of it which is taken out. Water pieces are arranged on an asbestos sheet or iron is then added and again pounded till it net and liquid solder prepared from zinc, copper becomes just like a pith. This again is washed and tineal is put between the pieces to be joined or cleaned in distilled water. During this with the help of a brush. Heat is then applied process coloured powder is washed about .30 by a primus stove and the various pieces to 40 times. Nitric and hydrochloric acids are joined in the form of an ornament. also used to clean it. Enamel prepared in this IV.Il Fret work is done after drawing or tracing way is heated and then sprayed Over a design on the ornament. This is done with ornaments with the help of a brush. While trte help of bow-shaped saw, admeasuring about enamelling for opal shade, heat is given till the 2" to 12" in length, keeping the ornament in required shade comes out. Sometimes heat is the hand. A wire admeasuring 5" is fixed in given by blowpipe also. ENAMEL WORK 17

IV.IS Before the enamel is applied, the surface polishing is done with the help of opni and is thoroughly burnished and cleaned. Thereafter soap-nut water. To remove the wetness, orna­ the enamel is inserted in the design with the ment is put in lime-powder or saw-dust. Polish. help of a brush meant for the purpose. This is ing powder which is the mixture of acid, wax, done much in the same way as a picture is etc., is also used. This type of polish is known painted. Colours are applied in the order of their as 'buff polish'. After all these processes are hardness or power of resisting fire. The order of over, the ornament becomes ready. hardness and application of colours are white, blue, green, black and red. The paint which IV.18 The technique of making different may have overflowed is carefully wiped out types of ornaments for different castes and with a piece of cotton and the article is left tribes involves numerous processes varying from in fire for half hour or so till the enamel sets place to place. If we examine these aspects nicely. It is then rubbed with corundum bone. It in case of Rajkot region, the ornaments of Mer is again put in fire rubbed with a file and community in Porbandar taluka (Junagadh cleaned with the acid of tamarind or lemon. district) will differ from those of Sathwara of Steel opni and polishing papers are used for Morvi taluka (Rajkot district) or Vagher of glaze. To keep the ornament in direct contact Jamnagar district or Koli, Kanbi, Bharvad, with fire, an article to be enamelled is placed Ahir, Boricha, Garasiya and others of Rajkot on a plate of mica or wire-mesh. It is very taluka. Hence it is very difficult to do proper carefully shielded while cleaning or drying to justice to this craft which has been studied at prevent any dust attaching to it. a few selected centres of the State. The fancy IV.16 Rajkot and Bhuj have acquired great of the people in decorating various parts of the reputation for enamel work. Most of the enamelled body varies from caste to caste, community to ornaments are hollow and filled inside with community and tribe to tribe. The extent of shellac. Some ornaments are still enamelled ornamentation resorted to by the craftsmen but the quality of enamelling has deteriorated varies according to the economic status of the considerably on account of low quality of caste/community. The artisans have thus enamel available in Cambay. It cannot compare devised simple as well as complicated methods in with the earlier work either in brilliance of the manufacture of ornaments to satisfy the colour, beauty of design or lasting quality. fancy of each class of people. IV.19 Processing of silver metal in to pokhani and Polishing chhada·and its manufacture into pan dabo by different IV.17 After an ornament is fashioned, polishing stages of production are described below. is the final process to which it is subjected. (i) POKHANI Before the presen t century pure gold was used for the manufacture of ornaments. Gold of IV.20 Making of a pair of pokhani or toti, less purity is now being used after alloying i.e., an old type of an earring shaped like a it with copper which makes it hard. Very high reel worn by the women of Kanbi, Koli, Ahir, degree of polish has, therefore, become possible Rabari and Mer castes on the tip of the ear. during the current century. Bringing out high Weight: SO gm., Price: Rs. 26, Metal: Silver. degree of polish was first introduced in Bengal (a) Rejining, Rolling and Pressing from the west and then adopted by other parts of the country. Polishing is done with the IV.21 Raw silver in the form of ingot or old help of sodium sulphate, alum salt, sulphuric ornaments is refined in the furnace by a separate acid, etc., mixed in required proportion. Orna­ establishment and a mould is prepared. The ments are first boiled in this solution, washed mould is converted by electrically operated with clean water and then brushed with a press into sheets and then stretched by roll into glass brush. Wire brushes operated by hand or square wires in -another establishment at the electric machines are also used for washing and rate of 6 to 12 paise per 10 gm. The silver­ polishing. In carved ornaments, only hand- smith makes the above arrangement on behalf B-3 18 sECTION IV-TOOLS AND TECIINIQ.UE of the customer. This process is fully mechani­ Soldering is done on the flame of a primus. The sed now in most of the urban areas. work of arranging the particles is called IV.22 The artisans still bit the moulded metal rava bharat, i.e., embroidery work with rava. continuously on an anvil by a hammer to shape (d) Making a Chain it into thin sheet of required gauges at those centres where this process is not yet mechanised. IV.25 A pointed iron rod locally known as trak Similarly they drew round wires of required IS gripped with a hand-drill. This drill is gauge after beating the mould with hammer on again fixed on the handvice fitted on a low an anvil on which it is kept with the help wooden stool. The drill is turned for glVmg of a pair of pincers. It is then drawn through rapid rotation to the iron rod. One end of an iron plate having holes of different sizes. the silver wire is fixed with the rod. As the The wire-dra wing machines now in use has rod rotates the wire is wrapped on it. This a device both of shaping square wires and process is also done without the drill by redrawing them manually into round shape turning the pointed rod on the wooden stool according to the required gauge. and pressing and turning the wire with a wooden strip. The wire when removed from (b) Shaping of a R~el the rod assumes the shape of a coil, which is IV.23 A ring is first prepared from wire accord­ cut with shears in to circular pieces, which are ing to the size or the circumference of the earrings linked with each other to form a chain. with the help of small pincers. Similarly, two Finally a hook or ankdo at one end and a small circles which can be fitted on the wire staple or a kadi at the other end are added ring are cut from a sheet with shears and a to make the chain complete. The chain is hole is cut from the middle with a chisel. A then pressed with the help of a hammer on small ring of wire is likewise made for fitting the anvil to form two rings placed one over it on the frill in the middle hole of both the the other in the form of '8' known as rings. On each circle a small ring and a big ring angreji alMo in local parlance. Links forming is soldered with an alloy stick after applying the chain are then soldered in the usual solution of borax and ammonia. A small pipe manner. The metal stick melts easily be­ is formed with pincers after cutting the sheet cause of the solution and joins two ends of with shears and joined by soldering. This small each piece in the chain. The end of this pipe is placed between the two circular holes chain with a hook or ankdo is affixed to the and then soldered to shape a reel. In case of back circle of pokhani. The staple or kadi at pokhani conical in shape, the inner portion of the other end of the chain is placed in the the cone is filled in with lac. braid of hair to reduce the weight of the (c) ShaPing of Flower and Designing ornament in the ear. It also distributes' the weight between the braid and the ear. IV.24 A flower of six petals, which can be fitted on the outer surface of the pipe, is cut with (e) Polishing shears. Its replica is also prepared and both IV.26 The ornament is shabby and blackish are then soldered on the top of the pipe each in appearance. It is again heated on the flame in front and at the back. Almond shaped of a primus and dipped in the mixture of sul­ design locally known as veni badam j~ first phuric acid and water. The ornament is then made with the help of thin wires and then washed in the mixture of water and soap­ soldered. Min ute grooves III the form of berry solution with a wire brush and glass small dots are engraved with the help of beads are rubbed for bringing lustre. The wet chisels. Sometimes small particles known as ornament is put in lime powder to remove rava in local parlance are cut with the shears moisture. Edges of the design are chiselled and soldered into particular design. Dots with tin gravers to give it shine. It is finally are often placed on the background or on polished with opni to bring out the desired that portion where there is space of design. lustre. aHHADA OR SANKALA 19

IV.27 One man can complete all the processes (b) Wrapping if Wire, Cutting of Ring and Arranl'­ described above in making pokhani or toti, i.e., ments of Rings earring within 10 to 12 hours without using any electrically operated machine in any of IV.31 These processes are similar to those techniques. The time will be reduced to 8 described for making chain in pokhani the only hours by using mechanised devices for refining, difference being in the gauge of the silver wire rolling and pressing the metCll. In most of the used, which is much thicker. castes formerly wearing this type of ornament, (c) Soldering, Finishing and Polishing it is noticed that modern earring like dul, lavingiya, kamp, buti, etc., have taken the place IV.32 The processes of soldering, finishing and of traditional ornamen t as a result of their polishing involved in the manufacture of chhada contact with other castes wearing them. Chang­ or sankala are a 180 the same as described earlier. ing fashion has thus influenced the lower An artisan can complete the work of making 10 strata of society who have a tendency to pairs of chhada or sallkala, weighing 20 gram~ imitate those in the higher walk of life. each in a working day of 8 to 10 hours and can earn approximately Rs. 5 as wages. (ii) CHHADA OR SANKALA (iii) MAKING of A BETEL BOX-PAN DABO OR IV.28 The process of making cMada or PAN DANI sankala, i.e., anklets mostly worn on the ankle by women of all castes except Bharvad, IV.33 A silver artware, viz., pan dani or Ahir, Mer, Boricha is described below. pan dabo, i.e., box for keeping betel and. IV.29 The ornament is known as chhada which other accessories measures 9" x 6" x 2" approxi­ literally means 'alone' but here it means that mately and weighs 30 tolas. It has embossed an ornament without the embellishment of or perforated design and costs a bout Rs. 170 small gingling bells, whereas sankala involves to 180. The technique of making it is described chain work. The ornament varies from 10 to below. 25 grams in weight and is 9.5" to 11" in length. (a) Refining and Pressing The cost price of the ornament of 15 gm. of silver at the time of further investigation in IV.34 Raw silver is refined with a view to mix 1964 was approximately Rs. 5 while the sale other metal like copper or cadium in the pro­ price was Rs. 5.50 or 5.62 per pair. The tech­ portion of 85 per cent silver and 15 per cent nique of making chhada or sankala can be other metal. This work is undertaken by a examined in the following stages. separate refinery unit @ Rs. 1.50 per kg. through the artisan on behalf of the customer or trader. (a) Rolling ~f Metal The refined metal in the form of a broad slab IV.30 The silver used for making these two locally known as pahala rejo is passed through types of ornaments is ensi tachi chandi, i.e., mix­ the rolling and pressing machine, with a vie'\\­ ture of silver and copper in the proportion of to obtain a sheet of 22 to 26 gauges in the 80 per cent and 20 per cent respectively. The required sizes of 8" or 9" breadth. The charges square wire of 16 gauge drawn by machine is payable for this operation are at the rate of transformed into round ""ire of 18 gauge by Rs. 2 to 2.50 per kg. Previously, the sheet manual redrawing. For this a square wire of was obtained by constant hammering of metal 18 gauge is manually drawn through a per­ on an anvil. forated iron plate having circular holes of (b) Shaping, Sketching and Designing different gauges. The iron plate is held in position by two iron pillarets fixed on the IV.35 The sjlver sheet is cut with shears accord­ wooden plank. The artisan stretches the wire ing to the size of various parts of the box to be through appropriate hole with the help of • man ufactured. These sheets are hammered to pliers. make them ductile and easier to work upon. 20 SECTION IV-TOOLS AND TECHNIQ.UE

Each part of the box is then given shape accord­ or other designs. Geometrical patterns such as ing to require men t. These parts are then straight and zigzag lines, dots, squares, rhom­ taken up separately for designing. For this bus, triangles, mathematical signs "such as +, purpose the part to be designed is affixed on a X and flowers and leaves and continuous loop wooden plank or support with the ,help of coils are the common designs adopted. Swastik damar or tar ~ixed with rajan. The design to of Hinduism, meaning auspiciousness is also be engraved or perforated is traced with a preferred. pencil on a tracing paper and transferred to IV.39 Animal figures also came into use and the sheet or by markings made with a pointed the e)lds of ornaments like bangles and bracelets instrument. The artisan then engraves or per­ were shaped to resemble animal heads. As forates the various parts of the box with the found in certain ornaments heads of lion, help of minute chisels, gravers and a wooden elephant, alligator and' tiger Seem to have stripe. been preferred. Fish also is very popular in (c) Heating, Chiselling" Filing and Finishing all types of ornaments. IV.40 Flower traceries and creepers are the IV.36 The ('ngraved or perforated article is common motifs adopted in silverwares. In taken out from its position on the wooden plank most of the silverwares floral pattern runs all after melting the tar, etc., by a primus flame. It is over the article and covers every inch of it. then chiselled with chholani or a scraper and file. Wares manufactured in the past were also All the parts are thus shaped and designed to decorated with hunting and dancing scenes. make a lid and box by soldering. The article Atmosphere and objects of nature have also is polished with buff powder after which it is porvided the subjects of artistic expression. heated and dipped in mixture of sulphuric IVAI Religious articles like mugat, bhandar, acid and water and washed by a 'brush in the kalash, door-frames for temples, etc., that are made water mixed with berry-fruits. Opni or a polish­ at the centres like Rajkot and Palitana are richly ing instrument gives the final touch and the embossed. In these a~ticles designs are mostly article becomes ready for sale. floral, though other designs are also depicted IV.37 An artisan can complete a pandani within at times. As fOWld on certain bhandars, 14 four days by working 8 to 9 hours daily. He dreams which the mother of Lord Mahavir had gets Rs. 25 to 30 as labour charges from which prior to his birth are embo~sed. And naturally the artisan pays Rs. 10 to other establishments so, when symbols have played a very signifi. like refinery, rolling and pressing, etc. cant role in the religious life of the people of DESIGNS this land. IV.42 Opening ceremony locks which are the IV.38 A wide variety of designs is adopted special products of Nadiad are designed with for ornamentation in ornaments and wares of the map of India or the miniature form of the different workmanship. Designs which are building for which they are made. Other designs generally in vogue are floral and geometrical. which are popular are Kutch-work, Chinai­ Traditional as well as modem designs are work, Kashmiri-work, ground-work) dead-polish adopted in almost all types of ornaments. Rural work and emboss-work. Engine turning work is folk mostly prefer traditional designs which are another variety which is newly tried at Nadiad customary. Many ornaments of gold and silver and Rajkot. Porbandar, however, is noted the imitate flowers but no definite flowers have most for the excellence of this work. The been chosen. In traditional ornaments sometimes peculiarity of this work is that the design pro. coins and plaques with some writings· and some­ duced on the articles manufactured from silver times embossed with mythological figures are sheet is made by the machine operated by hand. strung together to form a necklace. Pendant These designs are geometrical without any arti. suspended from a necklace is often embossed stic appeal. with the image of gods and goddesses. It is IV.43 National and international traffic has now also decorated with simple balls, flowers, leaves gone far to do away with the local and national DESIGNS 21 characteristics in ornaments. Ornaments are be no such thing as standardisation. There now becoming more and more alike all the are neither restrictions nor limitations in designs world over. Traditional shapes and designs which multiply everyday. Sometimes it is the have undergone a few changes, and modem artisan who gives the design of the customer's designs which are nowadays introduced are choice and taste and sometimes he makes it less decorative. Ornaments have such ·a large according to the idea or design given by range of variety and designs ·that there can the customer. SECTION V FINISHED PRODUCTS

Ahmedabad which are very famous for silver ORNAMENT TYPE work. Among these cen tres, Rajkot stands third in rank. It has big factories engaged in V.l SILVER BEING cheaper, its use as tradi­ the silver work. Most of the articles are pro­ tional ornaments is widespread. Per contra gold duced in laige quantity and exported to other being very costly is popular and much in use parts of the country. However, the workman­ among the higher economic strata of the ship of the traditional ornaments of Rajkot is society. Change in fashion has, therefore, unique one. Centres of Kutch, viz., Bhuj, brought about varied changes in the manu­ Anjar and Mandvi are also very popular for facture of gold ornaments; while traditional what is known as 'Kutch-work'. Gold and designs have been retained in case of silver silver articles manufactured in Kutch may ornaments. Silversmiths are skilful in making broadly be classified into kutchi kam and meena the traditional ornaments suitable to the taste kam. Kutch is long famous for its superior of different castes and tribes. design and workmanship in cups, flagons, V.2 The ornaments made are varied. Those fiower.vases, cigar cases, egg stands, tea and in most common use are necklace, bangles, coffee-sets, muffineers, rose-water sprinklers, bracelets, kadas, earrings, rings, anklets, waist­ etc. Meena kam or enamel work is also a specia­ band, nose-ring, buttons, cuflinks, lockets, hair­ lity of Kutch which is known as meena kam. pins, zanzar and other foot-ornaments like Nadiad and Palitana also have their own pagpan, kallan, sankala, etc. Besides ornaments, speciality. Nadiad is the important centre in silverwares were in great demand two decades India which manufactures silver locks and ago, when the art was patronised by the scissors used in opening ceremonies, while Pali­ princes and their nobles. Some of whom tana is the most important centre which has were great lovers of art. Various centres specialised in the manufacture ·of ornaments for are noted for their workmanship and technique idols. Bhandar, kalash, bajath, etc., are the other flourished. The articles which were made with varieties which are manufactured at Palitana. exquisite skill and excellence included wares VA Types of ornaments and wares made are of daily necessities like cups, saucers, dishes, numerous and varied. Necklaces produced at Raj­ tea-set, cofl'ee.set, and other articles like lamps, kot and Kutch are of a large variety. They are of photo frames, flower.vases, locks, scissors, pow­ square, round, triangular and oblong plaques der-box, pan-supari dish, trowel (Lelo,), statues, chased with floral and geometrical designs. casket, pokhnas or articles with which the cere­ Coins are not infrequently utilized to make a mony of welcoming the bride and bridegroom necklace particularly for the tribals and other is performed, ramandivo (a hanging lamp carried backward communities. Sometimes images of by the bridegroom's mother in the wedding gods and goddesses are also embossed thereon. procession), kankavati, i.e., container for red A pendant placed in the middle of the necklace turmeric powder, various types of ornaments is of various sizes and shapes. It may be square, for gods and goddesses (idols), etc. circular, triangular or leaf·like in shape. Com­ ponen t parts of every traditional neck orna­ SPECIALITY OF DIFFERENT CENTRES ment are strung together in threads of V.3 In India there are 5 centres, namely, either gold or cotton. Bracelets and bangles are, however, the commonest variety of Madrasl Salem (south), Rajkot, Kolhapur and 22 SPECIALITY OF DIFFERENT CENTRES 23 ornaments made at all the centres. They are which is sometimes plain and sometimes either flexible or solid. Bangles are at times chased with decorative work .. Another variety made in two parts and joined with hinges to of anklets is kadla and toda which are either facilitate its wearing on the hand. solid or hollow. V.5 Earrings are of two types, (i) circular SIZE AND SHAPE which are worn close to the ear and (ii) which are kept hanging from the ear by V.6 There can be no definite size and fine chains worked in a variety of designs. shape of the articles produced. Ornaments of Designs in anklets are also varied. They are the same type may be of various sizes and' mostly made of twisted silver links. They are shapes. The following stC.tement shows some of linked together to form English numeral '8' the ornaments produced at various centres or alphabet'S'. A clip joins both the ends with their size and use. STATEMENT V Distribution of centres according to types of ornaments and wares

Part of the Part of the body on body on which they which they are worn are worn or use to or use to which it which it Centre Article Size is put Centre Article Size is put I 2 3 4 2 3 4- Paddhari Necklace 18" to 20" in length Neck Mandvi-contd. Powder-box 3" in diameter Powder­ Bangles 2" to 3" in diameter Hand container 8" to 10" in length Upper part Locket Bangles Ii" to 2f' in Hand of hand diameter Ankle chain 10" to II" in length Ankle Kad1a 2" to 3f' in diameter Leg Palitana Mugat 6" in diameter Head 4" in l height (For idols) Nadiad Casket 8", 12", 16" Presenta. 18" in length ti on artic] e Mandvi Photo frame 4" x 21" to 12" x 4" Photo­ Tray 10", 12", 16" Presenta­ keeping tion artic] e castes and communities on a particular part TRADITIONAL TYPE of the body have been collected. The details V.7 During the detailed investigation atRajkot, of approximate weight, price and general particulars relating to the traditional orna­ description of design, etc., given in the follow­ men ts worn by both the sexes of differen t ing statement will prove interesting. STATEMENT VI Particulars of different types of ornaments Approxi­ mate price English Part of the Worn by Approxi­ in 1964 Caste/tribe General 81. Local equi- body where male/ No. of mate (June) using the description No. name valent put female Metal articles weight (in Rs.) ornament of design, etc. I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 II Pandadi Earring Upper portion Female Silver lor 2 20gm. 16.00 Kanbi, Flower, leaves, of the ear (two pieces) Bharvad dots, circles, etc. 2 Nagli Earring Upper and side Female Silver 7 700 gm. 50.00 Bharvad, Wire spring, portion of the (seven pieces) Rabari, Ahir flower, rings, ear round part, serpent (two .hapes) 24 SECTION V-FINlSHED PRODUCTS

STATEMENT VI-contd.

Particulars of different types of ornaments-contd.

, Approxi- mate price English Part of the Worn by Approxi- in 1964 Caste/tribe General SI. Local equi- body where male) No. of mate (June) using the description No. name valent put female Metal articles weight (in Rs.) ornament of design, etc.

2 3 4- 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

3 Vedhla Earring Upper and side Female Silver 7 700 gm. 35.00 Kanbi, Ring, square and portion of the (seven pieces) Bharvad triangular flower ear 4 Vali Earrit.lg Upper and side Female Silver 7 200 gm. 12.00 Kanbi, Koli, Ring, curves, portion of the (seven pieces) Bharvad, whirlpool ear Ahir, Rabari 5 Nakhli Earring Middle portion Female Silver 2 2.5gm. 1.75 Kanbi, Simple ring thick of the ear (two pieces) Bharvad, from middle Ahir 6 Dul Earring Back side of Female Silver 2 I gm. 1.00 Ahir Simple small ring the ear (two pieces)

7 Tholia' Earring In the central Male&: Silver 2 5 gm. (M) 5.00 Kanbi Circular shape of Kokarva portion of the female 2.5 gm. (F) 4.00 Kanbi slope, flower, dots, ear (two pieces) zigzag 8 Mota Earring Tip of the ear Female Silver 2 400 gm. 35.00 Bharvad, Flower, leaves, (two pieces) Ahir dots 9 Todl Earring Tip of the ear Female Silver 2 400 gm. 35.00 Big size- Flower, mango, Pokhani (two pieces) Kanbi, small star, dots, size, Ahir, almond, wheat Koli, Rabari, Mer 10 Butiya, Earring Tip of the ear Female Silver 2 15gm. 16.00 Kanbi, Koli, Flower, mango, Kamp, (two pieces) Garasiya dots Lavingiya, Chapva 11 Paro Necklace Neck Female Silver 30gm. 50.00 Kanbi, Dots, zigzag Bharvad border, (Arranged knitted with black beads) 12 Kanthi Necklace Neck Female Silver 30 to 50 gIn. 50.00 Kanbi, Dots, oblong (Panch Bharvad, shape, leaves potalia) Ahir, Koli, Rabari 13 Zarmar Necklace Neck Female Gold 30gm. 500.00 Kanbi (Now Round and oblong not i,n vogue) circles, flowers 14 Kanthlo Necklace Neck Female Silver 300 gm. 150.00 Bharvad Coin shaped pieces, square pendant, dots, flowers, leave-set 15 Hansadi Necklace Neck Female Silver 200 gm. 90.00 Kanbi, Koli, Dots, lines, etc. & Ghildren Bharvad DIFFERENT TYpES OF ORNAMENTS 25

STATEMENT VI-contd. Particulars of different types of ornaments-tontd.

Approxi- mate price English Part of the Worn by Approxi· in 196{ Cute/tribe General 51. Local equi· body where male/ No. of mate (June) using the description No. name valent put female Metal artic1es weight (in Rs.) ornament of design, etc.

2 S 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

16 Kantesllri Necklace Neck Female Gold 10 gm. 175.00 Kanbi, Koli Hollow, golden bead of oblong or rectangle shape, hollow portion is filled in with lac 17 Bkdamiya Necklace Neck Female Gold 80 gm. 1,300.00 Kanbi, Koli, 10 round hollow Ahir, Boricha beads and one round pendant, diamond of beads. Hollow portion is filled in with lac 18 Kumpiyo Necklace Neck Female Gold 10 gm. 175 Kambi, Koli, Thin sheet of Ahir, Boricha gold is wrapped on designed (engraved) copper bar II) Madaliyu Amulet Neck Male! Silver 5 gm. 3.50 Koli, Geometrical female Bharvad design, flower 20 Tika Head Forehead Female Silver 5 gm. 10.00 Originally Flower I sh.r ornament (5 to 8 gm.) Kathi, Garali- ya, nOw Hindu, Jain, Mu:dim 21 Da.mni Head Forehead Female Gold 50 gm. 500.00 Garasiya Flower, 'tar ornament 22 Pin Hair pin Braid Female Silver 2 15 gm. 5.00 Hindu, Jain, Flower, geometri. Muslim, esp., cal delign Kanbi, Koli, Bharvad 23 Chipiya Hair pin Braid female Silver 6 10 gm. 6.00 Hindu, Jain, Flower, ringling Muslim, esp .• small belli Kanbi, KoJi, Bharvad z.t, Ba.kal Buckle Braid Female ~ilver 2 10 gm. 6.00 Hindu, Jain, Bird, flower, Muslim, esp., geometrical Kanbi, Koli, design Bharvad

25 Lokit Armlet Elbow Female Silver 30 gm. 15.00 Bharvad Swa5tik, birds, flower8, creepefil, etc. 26 Konidodiyu Armlet Blbow Female 8i1ver eo gm. 30.60 Bharvad Swastik, birds, flowers, creepen, and oblQng. silver bead. (dodi) on both Ii des E-4 26 SECTION V-FINISHED PRODUCTS

STATEMENT VI-contd.

Particl1lars of different types of ornament.-c"ntd.

Approxi- mate price English Part of the Worn by Approxi- in 1964 Caate/tribe General SI. Local equi- body where male! No. of mate (June) using the delcription No. name valent put female Metal articles weight (in RI.) ornament of de.ign, etc.

2 3 .(. 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

27 Knelvana Broad Forearm Fem.ale Silver 2 100 gll'l. 50.00 Kanbi Swastik, bird., bangle, (1,100 & 1,200 flowers, creeper., gInS. also) and oblong silver beada (dodi) on both aides, angreji athdo (8) 28 Kandiya Broad F.rearm Female Silver 2 80 gm. .(.5.00 Bharvad, Zigzag shape bangle 100gm. Rabari (hollow) 160gm. 75.00 Boricha (solid) 29 Sareliyu Bracelet Forearm Mal. Silver 2 .roO gm. 170.00 Bharvad Six or eight edge' (300 to 400 gm.) of the rod and flower or star on the end (solid) 30 Kada Bracelet Forearm Male Silver 2 !l00 sm. HO.OO Bhatvad Flower, geometri- cal design 31 Anti Ring Finger Male/ Silver 5gm. 3.00 Kanbi, Simple two Female Bharvad welded ring 12 Vinti Ring Finger MaleJ Silver 5gm. 3.00 Koli, Flower, almond female Bharvad on the ring

33 Kaydo/ Ring Finger Mal. Silver 10 gm.. 8.00 Koli, Dots or atara on Gbodo' Bbarvad, the diamond shaped Kanbi, top of the rin" Rabari, Ahir 34- Kanbi Ring ringer Female Silver 5 rm. 3.00 Bharvad, Silver wire in Rabari zigzag ahape 35 Athiya Ring Finger Female Silver 10 gm. 6.00 Bharvad, Simple ring Rabari 36 Ferva Ring Finger Male Silver 10 gm. 6.00 Bharvad Spring shape

37 Arsi Ring Second Male Silver 20 gIn. 10.00 Bharvad Almond framed finier (100 rm. to mirror and 300 1m. in soldered on rillg, the put) flowed, star 18 Kandoro Waist band W.list Male Silver 100 1m. 50.00 Kanbi, 1'lower, star, (Ek-cerno/ (300 gm. Bharvad almond B-serno) in the put) (Now also wombywomen of advanced caste) DIFFERENT TYPES OF ORNAMENTS 27

STATEMENT VI-coneld. Particulars of different types of ornaments-concld. Approxi- mate price English Part of the Worn by Approxi- in 1964 Caste jtri be General SI. Local equi- body where male} No. of mate (June) using the description No. name valent put female Metal articles weight (in Rs.) ornament of design, etc. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 39 Toda Anklet Ankle Female Silver 2 200gm. 100.00 Darjee, Suthar, Dots, stars, (800 to 1,000 Valand, flowen, etc. gm. in the Garasiya, past) Kathi 40 Ghannla Anklet Ankle Female Silver 2 200 gm. 100.00 Darjee Suthar, Broad shape with (400 to 500 gm. Valand, hollowed design in the past) Garasiya, like wheat Kathi 41 Bedi Anklet Ankle Female Silver 2 200gm. 95.00 Kanbi, Deep curves on (300 to 400 gm. Ahir, the rod and ring, in the past) Garasiya flowers 42 Kadla/Kalla Anklet Ankle Female Silver 2 400 gm. 170.00 Bharvad, Solid rod, simple (600 to 800 Koli, Ahir, or designs of gm. in the Mer, Kanbi flowers, stars, past) creepers, dots, etc. 43 Kambi Anklet Ankle Female Silver 2 400 gm. 170.00 Kanbi, Solid rod with (600 to Bharvad curved shape from 800 gm.) the middle 44 Pagpan Anklet Ankle Female Silver 2 100 gro. 60.00 Kanbi, Leaves, flowers, (150 gm.) Bharvad creepers, geometrical design 45 Chhadaj Anklet Ankle Female Silver 2 15 gm. 5.50 Brahmin, Design of '8' Sankala Luhana, (Angreji Bania, Suthar, athdo) Luhar, etc., advanced caste 46 Zanzari Anklet Ankle Female Silver 2 25gm. 9.00 Brahmin, Star, flower, Luhana diamond with Bania, Suthar, small ringling Luhar, etc., bells advanced caste 47 Chapda Toe- Both the Female Silver 2 40 em. 17.00 Kanbi, Koli, Simple, broad and ornament big toel Bharvad, flat ring from the of feet Rabari, Ahir middle portion 48 Anguthadi Toe- Both the Femrue Silver 2 15 gm. 6.00 Kanbi, Koli, Dots ornament big toes Bharvad, of feet Rabari, Ahir 49 Chhipni Toe- First toe Female Silver 2 20gm. 10.00 Kanbi Koli, Geometrical designs ornament Bharvad. Rabari, Ahir .50 Kaida Toe- Second Female Silver 6 20gm. 10.00 Kanbi, Koli, Simple ring or ring ornament toe Bharvad, having curves Rabari, Ahir .51 Tachakada Toe- Second Female Silver 6 4Ogm. 20.00 Kanbi, Koli, Two simple rings ornament toe Bharvad and one with Rabari, Ahir geometrical designs 52 Fuliya Toe- Third, Female Silver 6 30gm. 15.00 Kanbi, Koli, Ring with a ornament fourth and Bharvad, flower on a top fifth toe Rabari, Ahir .53 Button Button Shirt Male Silver 4 10 gm. 5.00 Bharvad, Flower, almond Kanbi 54 Sat Button Shirt Male Silver 4 60 iID. 30.00 Bharvad, Flower chain with withchai!l J<.anbi Imall ringling bell. 28 SECTION V-FINISHED PRODUCTS

PRICE V.8 In Rajkot, all these ornaments are PRODUCTION mostly used for ornamental purposes by Ahir, Kharwa, Charan, Boricha, Kanbi, Rabari, Koli, V.9 Articles .produced in the .past are made Gar2>siya, Mer, Kathi, Bharvad castes while in eVen today with some variations. Those man u­ Nadiad they are worn by Kshatriya community. factured in th~ past were heavier in weight The Cas tes Jcommunities like Darjee ,Luhar, Suthar, because of people's desire to invest their money Valand, Lohana, Brahmin, Bania, i. e., Hindu, in gold and silver. With refinement in the ta~te Muslim and Jain also use some of them. Rural of the people and rise in the prices of precious folk all over Gujarat for the most part wear metals, the ornaments now in use by the these traditional ornamen ts. The main purpose middle and upper classes are much lighter behind it is investment for future security. The in weight. At present due to the introduction of same types of ornaments have now come into Gold Control Order, the products of gold are fashion in urban area and are becoming popular very rare and the craftsmen have switched over with advanced castes abd communities who have to the application of their art to silver. All the adopted them with certain changes in design ornaments which were formerly made of gold and shape. They are : are now made of silver. STATEMENT VB Price index of fashion articles The annual production of the ornaments Sl. Name of Price in Ra. manufactured at Rajkot is estimated to No. article Unit Weight 1964 JURe 1 2 3 4 5 Rs. 5,000,000. For Paddhari, it is as~essed that 1 Pin-buckle Pair 10 gm. 2.87 to 3.1~ silver ornaments of 100,000 tolas worth R~. 3 to 4 2 Earrings Pair 5 gm. 1.00 to 1.50 3 Nose-ring Doz. Less than 1 gm. 4.00 to 5.00 lakhs are processed into finished products every each year. In Palitana raw material is usually supplied 4 Chain No. 15 to 20 gm. 8.00 to 10.00 5 Necklace No. 25 to 30 gm. 20.00 by the customers and as such no definite' parti­ 6 Button No. 2 gm. 1.00 culars of goods produced are obtained during the 7 Armlet Pair 45 to 50 13.00 8 Loose bangle Pair 20 gm. 15.00 survey but it is estimated that the artisans get 9 Bangles No. I tola 3.00 about Rs. 3,500 per annum a~ labour charges. 10 Ring~ (for finger) No. 2 to 3 gm. Doz. 6.00 to 12.00 11 Waist-band No. 5 to 50 tolas 15.00 to 150.00 In most of the centres ornaments are produced 12 Anklet Pair 1 to 50 tolas 5.00 to 150.00 per demand and so the question of storing 13 Ring (for toes) Pair 3 to 4 gm. 1.50 to 2.00 14 Key-holder No. 2 to 5 tolas 6.00 to 20.00 the finished products does not arise at all. As ~ soon as the work is over artisan delivers the Non: (i) 3 tol~s=35 grams (ii) Labour charges for one tola of ornament can be estimated at Re. 0.31 to 0.37. goods to the customers. SECTION VI MARKETING

SALE PROCEDURE customers are familiar to artisGns they sell them on credit for some period. As much of the work Vr.! MARKET IS THE most important aspect in is done ag<,jnst remuneration for labour znd skill the growth and development of any craft or involved thc business is natur2Jly conducted on industry. If there is no market or no facility of cash payment. In Rajkot the merchants from marketing, craft cannot flourish. In most of the Surat, Bardoli, Ratlam, Indore, Haripur, etc., centres like Anjar, Nadiad, Palitana, articles are supply the main r('w material silver, through made by the craftsmen to order and so the angadia, i. e., a system of transport of goods by problem of marketing as such does not arise. e~tablj,shments engaged in this work who employ Nearly all the centres have both local as well their own men to carry articles from one place as outside market. In Rajkot the merchants from to another and deliver them in person to the Surat, Bardoli, Ratlam, Indore, Haripur, etc., consignee on payment of reasonable fees and the send precious metals to be formed in ornaments and ornaments made on piece wage bzosis. Labour Wa.res. Lucknow, Amritsar, Banaras, Patna, Jodh­ charges are also paid through the agency of pur, Bikaner, Nathdwara, Kan pur and Delhi 2.lso angadia. In Rcjkot there is one cooperative are the ill in centres of marketing. Nadiad artisans society esta blished in 1963 which sometimes get their orders from the traders of Bombay, undertakes the sale of ready-made ornaments in who export them to some eastern countries. the Bombay m'lrket. The cooperative society at Silver articles made at centres like Kutch and Mandvi also sells finished products. Finished PL,ddhari are in great demand in some of the products are at times sold through agents, or foreign coun tries. It has been observed that cooperative society and often by the individual traditional jewellery which is mostly made of craftsman directly to the consumers. silver has a regular market in East Africa and Middle-east countries where most of the Gujarati SALE merchzonts handle this trade through agents in VI.4 Before the finished products are Aden. A cooperative society at Mandvi has been delivered to the customers, they are wrapped in able to capture a good market for ornaments white or coloured tissue paper <"nd put in paper known as 'Lezim'. It also sells various other box or card-board boxes. Costlier ornaments types of village jewellery. are put in a box padded with velvet. VI.2 Concentration of silver work in Palitana may be due to its religious importance and VI.5 Field inquiry has shown that Rajk.ot great centre of Jain pilgrimage to Shetrunjay, makes ornaments worth about Rs. 5,000,000. the 'city of temples', where articles for the In Nadiad also annual production of silver work deity are in great demand. Likewise the is estimated to be Rs. 840,000 during 1964-65. concentration of the silver work in Kutch may Ornaments worth Rs. 5 lakhs are reported lo be attributed to the patronage of rulers. be exported per year from Paddhari. AGENCY VI.6 Time lag between production and sale is very little as the articles are mostly made to VI.3 There is not a single specific method order or in anticipation of demand in the near or agency for selling the finished products. future. The demand is obviously greater during Mostly the articles are sold on cash. But if the the marriage season when people generally go 30 SECTION VI-MARKETING in for ornaments. In rural area of Paddhari, are the months of slack season while OctoBer articles manufactured are found to have been to June are the months of busy season. In sold in la.rger quantity after the harvest time Palit'll1.a February to October are the months of when the farmers get ready cash on hand. In busy season and November to January are the all the centres except Palitana July to September mon ths of slack season. SECTION VII ECONOMIC CHARACTERISTICS

men ts; installing necessary machinery required CAPITAL INVESTMENT for the craft and procuring raw material for VII.l No CRAFT CAN run without capital. Before the craft in bulk ard supplying them to its a craft can be established an artisan or members at a reasonable price. proprietor must have sufficient fund on hand to VU.3 According to the survey of households start with besides essential tools and equipment•• conducted in different centres, it has been It is estimated from local inquiry that in a reported that out of 37 households' surveyed in centre like Paddhari, about a sum of Rs. 1,000 Rajkot, only one household had taken finaLcial to 5,000 is required to be invested in tools and help of Rs. 2,000. In Palitana, out of 3 house­ implements besides working capital to the tune holds two had borrowed Rs. 2,000 for the of about Rs. 10,000 to 50,000. In Anjar it is development of the business and the purchase estimated at Rs. 10,000 per unit, out of which of implements. This did not increase in any about Rs. 1,000 are for tools and implements, increase in production. In Mandvi, 12 had Rs. 1,000 each for the rent of the building an.d taken financial help amounting to Rs. 20,200 labour charges and Rs. 7,000 for raw materials for the development of business, out of which and miscellaneous expenses. Total investment in 4 of them utilised it in increasing production. the craft at Palitana including that on workshop COST OF PRODUCTION building, tools and implements is reported to be Rs. 15,000 while in Rajkot working capital alore VIlA Estimation of cost of production of is estimated to be Rs. 1,200,000. The economic finished products is very difficult as the articles status of choksy is better compared to that of are not of the Same weight, same size, design artisans engaged in the craft. They purchase and workmanship. Broadly speaking it can be bullion On wholesale basis, pay for labour laid that the cost of production generally charges and get good profit on sale. deper"ds on the cost of the raw material, accessory materials aLd the labour charges to SOURCE of CAPITAL be paid to the labourers for their craftsmanship. VII.2 Establishments are for the most part This can be better reviewed by giving the cost run on individual basis. As the business is not of production of some articles which is supplied carried on large scale basis the amount of capital by the artisan at Nadiad with a view to have required is also not very big. In most of the a general idea about the cost structure and centres craftsmen are found to be working with profit accruing to the manufacturers. their own capital and hardly like to borrow from The cost of manufacturing a silver cup of others. As discussed earlier ornaments are made 100 grams is approximately as follows: according to the demand of customers who June 1984- supply the raw material, the artisans have not (in RI.) to provide their own capital. In Rajkot where Main and subsidiary raw materials • 37.00 ornaments and wares are made and stocked on Moulding and castine 00.10 an appreciable scales, large cap ital is to be 00.50 invested by individual proprietors. A cooperative Rolling 5.00 society was established in 1963 with the object Design-making 00.60 of raising necessary funds from the bank and Polilhing undertaking join t production and sale of Orna- Total 43.00 !H 32 !!:ICTION VII-ECONOMIC CHARACTERISTICS

The cup is ordinarily sold at Rs. 44.50 in June 19154 wholesale aGd Rs. 46.50 in retail. (in Rs.) Raw silver metal (Silver sa per cent + The field inquiry at Rajkot has revealed the 20 per cent copper) 15 gm. • 4.50 following facts about annual production at that Labour charges (including rolling, pressing centre. and refining charges) 0.50 R~. 5,OOO,OOO-Price of ornaments Cost price 5.00 Rs. 4,500,OOO-Silver (raw material) Profit 0.50 Sale price 5.50 Rs. 200,OOO-Subsidiary raw mJ.terial and other charges (iii) Pan dabo Rs. lOO,OOO-Remuneration paid to the VII. 7 Pan dabo or betel box of 300 gm. workers having Jali work is used by the well-to-do and Rs. 200,OOO-Estima ted profit also given as a prEsentation article on zuspicicus Below is given the estimated cost of product­ or ceremonial occasion. The particulars of cost ion in respect of (i) PokhaniJ Toti, (ii) ChhadaJSankala of production are described below. and (iii) Pan dabo or betel box of Rajkot with a view to give o. comparative picture of the June 1964- ecmomic ch:Hacteristics of the craft at that centre. (in Rs.) Raw lilver metal (Silver 90 per cent + 10 (i) Pokhani/Toli per cent copper) 142.50 Plastic tin 2.50 VII.S PokhanifToti or earring weighing 50 gm. Labour charges (including rolling, preuin~, is still worn by women on the tip of tach ear. refining, etc.) 30.00 A chain attached to the earring is hur.g in the Cost price 175.00 braid of hair with a hook at one cnd. This Profit 5.00 ornaments is made from pUre silver metal. The Sale price 180.00 mixture of any other metal say copper is avoided Analysis of the cost of production at various as it will create adverse effect on the ears on centres reveals that while the cost of m<;terial account of heat during Summer. Approximate remains more or less the same, the labour cost of production is computed as follows. A charges fluctuate considerably for different man can complete two pieces without the help products depending upon fize, skill and craftman. of any mlchinery within 10 to 12 hours; within ship of the articles produced. After the introduct. 8 hours if m'l.chinery is used lU pressing and ion of Gold Control Order charges for making wire dra win g. similar silver ornz,ments has gone up 2 or 3 June 1964 times more in some of the ornaments. (in Rs.) (d) VVAGE STRUCTURE Silver (Pure) 5 gm. 20.00 Labour charges (including refining, rolling, VII.8 There is no definite standard of wage pressing charges, etc.) 4.00 structure in this craft. In some shops most of Cost price 24.00 the workers are family members and all of Profit 2.00 them contribute. to the work done. In some Sale price 26.00 shops hired workers are engaged on monthly salary and sometimes on piece wage basis. At (ii) ChhadalSankala Nadiad most of the workers in silver are work­ VII.6 ChhadaJSankala or anklets of 10 to 25 ing on piece wage. Further ir,vestigation at gm. having shape like numeral '8' c,re worn Rajkot has shown that an artisan working in a on ankles by wornen. Its In gth varies from refinery and rolling-pressing unit, earns Rs. 80 9,,; to 11" according to the me8,surement of the to 110 per month, whereas in the making of ankle. The cost of production is calculated ornaments, a worker earns Rs. 50 to 100 pel' approximately on the basis of a pair of 11" month. The monthly income of a worker in weighing 15 gm. One man can make a pair other branches of the craft is estimated to be from ready-made wire within 2 hoUl's. Rs. 100 to 150 per month. About 1,000 workers WAGE BTJlUCTURE 33 employed in this industry earn an annual remu­ hours. They do the minor works of the shop. neration ofRs. 100,000. Hundred women arc also Females also do the work like polishing of the working at home on piece-wage system during ornaments, preparing the hooks, etc. leisure hours. The rates of remuneration are: VII.10 In the past, in addition to the Preparation of hooks Rs. 2 to 2.50 per 100 important Hindu holidays, the Sonis did not Polishing of rings (toes) Re. 0.75 "100 work on the dark eleventh and fifteenth of Polishing.ofrings (fingers) Re. 0.50 "100 every month as also on the vyatipat and vaidhrit Preparation of ring (toes) Rs. 2 per 100 tolas which number about three in a month. Some Knitting of anklets Re. 0.S7 per pair Gujjar Sonis do not workduringthe Paryushana VII.9 Generally the artisan works for 8 to or days of fast in August. After the introduct­ 10 hours a day. In the peak season he may ion of Shops and Establishments Act, these days work even for 12 hours, while in the slack are not strictly observed but the shops remain season about 6 hours a day. October to June, closed once a week and On other days in the which correspond to the marriage season, are year which are mostly religious. It has been the busy months of the year and July to reported that the shops usually remain closed September are slack months. on Amas even today in the centres like Anjar The very nature of the craft precludes and Paddhari. Over and above these days employment of women and children, though shops remain closed on the death of a Soni there are a few simple processes wherein their Mahajan, i.e., one of the members of the guild services are sometimes utilized. Children who also. The total number of working days in a go to school help his father after his school- year comes approximately to 300.

E-5 SECTION VIII

ORGANISATIONAL CHARACTERISTICS

to help their members. In Rajkot such a STRUCTURE OF THE CRAl'T society was organised in September 1963. Rajkot VIII. 1 CRAF'TSIrIEN CAN be broadly classified Choksy Association was also organised about 7 according to conditions of work into three or 8 years ago with a membership of 50 per­ groups (i) independent or self-employed crafts­ sons. A person desirous of joining the association men, (ii) craftsmen working for master crafts­ has to pay Rs. 11 as entrance fee plus the men or dealers on daily wages or piecework yearly contribution of Rs. 3. The Association system and (iii) craft~en working for coopera- used to refine gold and make available these tive societies. ' gold bars for sale before the introduction of Independen t or self-employed craftsmen are Gold Control Order 1963. more common in villages and smaller towns. COOPERATIVE SoCIETY But in larger towns and cities craftsmen work­ ing on wages are found in good number. The VIII.3 After the introduction of the Gold general practice is to make ornaments to order. Can trol Order it was very difficult for the artisan But in larger commercial centres they are also to get gold and have enough work in the made and stored for sale according to the absence of this precious metal. Cooperation financial capacity of the owner. While working was considered to be the most effective remedy at home, they sometimes take assistance of to meet the situation. The artisans, therefore, female members in certain minor proceS$es formed themselves in$o 'Rajkot Sona' Chandi worked at home. Udyog Mandali Ltd.,' on September24, 1963 asa Those employed by others are mere wage­ result of the constant efforts made' by the earners either on time basis or piece-wages office of the Pilot Project Officer, Rajkot division. according to the nature of articles to be made The main objects of the society are : and the skill required. (1) to borrow necessary ftmds from the bank Wherever cooperative societies undertake and to undertake joint production and sale of production through member artisans, craftsmen gold and silver ornamen ts; work for society on piece.rates .. The society (2) to undertake export of articles manufactW'ed supplies the raw material to member artisans by the society; who shape them into the requisite finished (3) to install necessary machinery required to articles and deliver them back to the society, improve the working of the craft; which arranges for their sale and distributes (4) to procure in bulk raw materials required the profit among the member craftsmen accord­ for this craft and to supply them to itl! ing to the number of shares held by each. members at a reasonable price; and (5) to undertake all ancillary activity in the AssOCIATION AND COOPERATION interest of the members connected with the VIII.2 In the present-day economy, it has craft. been realised by the workers that cooperation is a necessary factor for developing a competi­ MEMBERSmp tive industry, eliminate middleman's profit, VIII.4 The membership is open to any procure raw material and promote sale. With artisan engaged in this craft and residing in this end in view cooperative societies have Rajkot, but not elsewhere. There are 7 directors been formed in Rajkot, Mandvi and Nadiad of the society of whom 6 are from artisans and 84 CAPITAL STRUCTURE 35

dealers and one is a sympathiser. Artisan desir­ and gets specified articles prepaud by them on ing to become a member of the society payl the payment of piece-rate wages. The society .Re. 1 as admission fee. The total number of existing also purchases ready-made silver ornaments members today is 27 including 2 sympathisers. from artisan mc::mbers and sells them. Gold articles are not produced as it being costly, CApITAL STRUOTURE demands large investment. The society is able VIII.5 Authorised share capital of the society to provide work only to 30 members and the is Rs. 20,000 only. The total number of shares rest have to seek work outside. It serves as a sold till today are 125. The existing share common facility centre where its members can capital is Rs. 3,125. Government also has contri­ have the use of a wire-drawing machine installed buted Rs. 3,000 towards share capital of the in its premises. society repayable after 15 years. The total VIII. 7 Confronted as it is with the problem amount of paid up share capital of the society of marketing, the society is not in a position to thus comes to Rs. 6,125. The society halO received expand its production activities so as to provide Rs. 299 from the Governmen t as subsidy in regular work to all its members. The loss of 1963-64 towards the expenses of man agemc::n t. Aden market for silver articles on account of The society was granted Rs. 10,000 by way relatively higher prices of silver in India, has of cash credit in the year 1964 at 2; per cent further aggravated the marketing problem. The interest by the Saurashtra Small Scale Indus­ society can undertake purchase and sale of gold trial Cooperative Bank Limited, Rajkot to be and equipmen ts required for the craft if the repaid in November 1966. The society has import policy of the Government is favourable. attempted to get a loan of Rs. 20,000 from The society cannot lUldertake any busineis on Saurashtra Small Scale Industrial Cooperative credit basis as it has got limited financial resour­ Bank Limited, Rajkot with a view to keep the ces which remain mostly locked up in bullion craft alive. Its activity is likely to suffer if the to be given to the artisans for making orna­ loan is not sanctioned. As the prices of silver men ts on piece-wage system. The society feell fluctuate from day to day the society has not that share capital should be raisc::d for the operated cash credit so far and has not started development of the craft. The society has also regular production till today because of insuffi­ requested the State Government to make neces­ cient finance. Total purchases and salel of the sary arrangements for the purchase of enamel society during the years 1963 and 1964 came colours. to Rs. 8,613 and Rs. 5,972.50 respectively. VIII.S In the past it was not difficult for VIII.6 There is one cooperative society of the artisans to work in gold and silver as they silver-goldsmithll, namely, The Soni Udyogi enjoyed patronage of ruling princc::s. After the Sahakari Mandali Limited at Mandvi established integration of princely States it suddenly came in 1954, constituting 50 members-45 artisans to an end causing certain degree of unemploy­ and 5 sympathisers. The society had started ment which was further aggravated by the functioning from the following year. It autho­ Gold Control Order of 1963. Finance wal a rised capital is Rs. 20,000. The paid-up capital serious handicap which they tried to overcome of the Mandali amounts to Rs. 6,455 of which at Nadiad by forming a cooperative Jocirty on a sum of Rs. 3,000 has been contributed by 15th June, 1960 with an initial membrrship of I~. the State Government towards its share capital. The society was stylrd "Shree Nadiad Chandi, In 1960, the society obtained a loan of Pittal Nakshikaroni Audyogic Sahakari Manda1i Rs. 15,000 towards its working capital from Limited". Today the society has 44 member. the Rajkot Small Industries Bank Limited, and one sympathiser. Every artisan is entitled Rajkot, and another loan of Rs. 1,500 from the to be enrolled as a member of the society by State Governmen t towards the purchase of tooa paying Re. 1 as admission fee. It has enabled and equipmtn ts. artisans to get reasonable compensation for The society purchases silver from Bombay their labour and freed them from exploitation on wholesale basis and supplies it to its memben of the dealers. The IOciety auppliel raw material., 36 SECTION vnl-OROANISATlONAL CHARACTElUSTICS solves their financial problems and undertakes has to purchase implemen ts worth Rs. SOO on responsibility for the sale of finished products, his own during the period of training. The total besides providing work to the artisans working expenditure both recurring and non-recurring in silver and brass. comes to Rs. 3,500 per year and whenever During the year 1964~65 (i.e., from lst there is any deficiency, the loss is met by con­ July, 1964 to 30th ]lme, 1965), the society has tributions from the community fund. sold artistic silver ornaments in the various Detailed theoretical and practical training in cities of India and paid Rs. 5,151.61 as labour drawing including designs of various types, charges to the member artisans of the society. engraving and diamond setting, manufacturing With the introduction of Gold Control Order of bha,· pattern ornaments, enamel and dip workers in gold have started working in silver. work, etc., is imputed to the trainees. The

TRAINING course is ordinarily for one year but the trainees who complete their Course within a year and VIII.9 A~ found il'l.. most of the centres the acquire the desired standard of efficiency are craft is a traditional one handed down from relieved earlier. generation to generation. The training that was VIII.ll About '700 trainees are trained in imparted was on the basis of apprentIceship in this institution. In the year 1963,56 candidates a goldsmith's shop either of the family or some were trained in the institution. A merit certifi­ relative or acquaintance, where training is cate is being awarded to the successful trainees acquired in all types of work by actually work. by the institute. Though there is no special ing in the craft. programme to follow up the trained students, In the past, some secrets of shaping the all of them are settled in the craft. ornaments and work of enamelling, engraving, The institution ill the only one of its kind etc., were not shown to other artisans outside in India. Students from other States are also the family circle. In one case a goldsmith was coming here for trainhig. This year a student found keeping some electrical arrangement of from Manipur was sponsored by the All-India passing electrical currents on the staircase to Handicrafts Board. Rajkot is perhaps the only prevent anybody coming up. centre in Gujarat where such a private school is With the influx of time the articles produced run to impart such a perfect training to th: had to face the competition of foreign imitation candidates of all castes and communities. goods and it was realised that some sort of Shr; Vishvakarma Hunnarshala training would help develop the craft. In order to impart systematic and scientilic training to VIII.12 Attempts were also made in the past artisan in various processes involved in the to establish a private training school, as a result making of ornaments, an institution under the of which 'Shri Vishvakarma Hunnarshala' was auspices of 'Akhil Hind Shrimali Soni Maha. started in 1942 but no detail» are available mandaI, Rajkot' was established in 1947. regarding it. A~hil Hind Shrimali Soni Mahamandal Trainin: Rajkot Engraving School No. 1 Institute, Rajkot VIII.13 There is another school, namely VIII.IO Any person having aptitude for 'Rajkot Engraving School No. l' establis~ed by gold and silver work is admitted to the insti­ Gagubhai Khushalbhai Soni in 1935. The parti· tution. The classes are conducted in two shifts , culars of the school are. as follows: one in afternoon from 12 noon to 6 p.m. It is said that the famous Soni artisa{l of and the other at night from 8 p.m. to 10 p.m. Jamnagar, late Purshottamdas Jadavji, who had Fees are to be paid at the rate of Rs. 5 per month written a book entitled 'Soni Hunner Prakash' for afternoon classes and Rs. 2 for night clalses, published in 1907 had thought of establi!hing II. with provision for freeship for deserving candi. training school but could not do so due to his old dates. Residential facilities are also extended to age and other hindrances. This inspired another the ~rain~e. comin~ fro~ outside. ~ach trainee Soni craftsman, Gagubbai Khusbalbhai to TRAINING 37 establish Rajkot Engr2.ving School No. I in Rajkot. imparted is essentially practical, ar.d the trair.ee When Morvi State czme into the existence, has neither to read nor write any papers. this family came to Morvi from Kutch and Students from various parts of the COUll try settled there as State goldsmith. Gagubhai also like Marwar, Punjab as well as from far oft' worked in Bombay for sometime. The father countries of South ar_d East Africa, viz., Kenya, and grandfather of Gc.gubhai h~d also worked Yuganda, Tanganika, Zanzibar, Madagaskar, in· Bombay, Most of the trainees are of Soni caste .Mozambique and Natal have taken training in this as the basic knowledge required for training is institution, which has turned out about 600 to 700 usually found in students of this caste only. students in various fields of ornament makirg. VIII.14 A person who joins this school has Bhanvad Pattani Soni Gnati Hunnarshala to pay a monthly fee of Rs. 10 to 20 according to the work selected for trainiJCg. Each trdnee VIII. IS There Wi'S another training school has to work for 8 hours a day. No definite period namely 'Bhanvad Pattani Soni Gnati Hunnar­ is prescribed for traircing. It depends on the shala' which was established on ISth December, grasping power of the trainee concerned. Though 1959. It trained about 75 students within period the avera.ge period of the training is 14 months of 3 years. After the introduction of Gold Con­ a student with good graspir"gpower can complete trol Order the crafts has suffered reverses the course within 6 months also. The training resulting in closing of such CCLtre3. SECTION IX CONCLUSION

IX.! ALTHOUGH the foregoing pages deal with the past by renowned craftsmen (or ruling the craft of silversmithy at a few important cen tres families and the wealthy. Though the patronage in Gujarat, this craft is so widespread that from ruling families has practically disappeared there is hardly a village or a town where a after independence and the production of beauti­ gold or silversmith is not found. The art of ful artwares has suffered a severe set.back, even silver and goldsmithy in India is very old and today there are some centres which are renowned its references are foUnd even in the Rigved, for the making of artistic ornaments and wares. Ramayan, Mahabharat and various other books. The craft is also adversely affected by cheap Ramayan and Mahabharat offer abundant imitation jewellery amply available in the evidence to show that Hindus were perfectly market. The demand for ritual objects has also familiar with gold and silver work. The fascina. decreased considerably because of change in tion to decorate oneself with silver and gold the attitude of people towards religion. For jewellery is so innate that it has been in obvious reasons the present generation is more existence since ages. Even today there is hardly inclined towards cheaper articles owing to high a household which lacks gold or silver jewellery prices of bullion, which is in greater demand ~o adorn its femalefolk. Fancy for ornaments is than ever before by Governments of the world Inherent in human nature and interwoven with to back up their curr(iIlcy. the social life of the people which has given IX.3 Since silver ha~ taken the place of gold to rise to ihe age-old custom of presenting them ail appreciable extent after the introduction of to the bride at the time of marriage. This along Gold Control Order, 1963 restricting the use with their utility and value as an undoubted of gold to the making of ornaments of 14 means of social security in the hour of stress carat only, silver work has a bright future. have greatly contributed to their immense popu~ Demand for silver ornaments is naturally on larity and demand by the various strata of increase, as people who can afford gold oma· society, high and low. Ornaments also reveal ments at its present price are few and far through the variety of their designs and shape, between. Various silver ornaments like colillr, the stage of culture and civilization the people necklace, earrings, key-holders, etc., having have attained, as can be seen from the exquisite artistic appeal have come into fashion. The old pieces of jewellery which adorn both males and idea of holding wealth in the form of jewellery females in the frescoes of Ajanta and stone is fast changing as alternate facilities for invest­ sculptures of Ellora and numerous other places ment are now readily available. This has natu­ all over India. rally created a demand for light ornaments with IX.2 Though the craft is widely practised, there artistic designs. The liking of the people for are certain centres which have acquired fame traditional designs in ornaments, as in case of for special designs which at times are confined other articles produced in the past, is an added to a few families only. There are peculiarities factor which has contributed further to the also in the shapes and designs of ornaments of extension of the market for silver ornaments in differen t tribes and castes worked at different general and traditional ones in particular. centres. The silversmiths very skilfully satisfy IXA The following are some of the steps that the aesthetic taste of all strata of the society. may be taken for the promotion of the craft. &sides ornaments for mass cooswnption, highly (1) Marketing should be properly organised artistic articles and wares were manufactured in particularly in towns and cities. With a view 38 CONOLusION 39

to build up market in foreign countries, Designs Institute. highly artistic articles of jewellery and wares (4) Publicity and propaganda should be under­ formerly made for the ruling princes should taken in the country and outside through be exhibited in emporia and advertised in modem means of publicity. the cOURtry and abroad. (2) Labour and time-saving devices should be (5) There is a scope for widening the use of introduced in the equipments and appliances photographic and multi-colour enamel work. uSed by the craftsmen. Standard enamel required for the purpose (3) Traditional designs should be revived and being not available in the country may be the new designs furnished through National made available by import. PLATES PLATE I

\ .

Silver bars and silver nugget PLATE II PLATE III

o......

C"J ~ <:::> -...'" ~.....

~~~ .

...._...~~ 11") .---..'" <..0 <:::> ~ ~~ ~ .S ~ ~ ...._... "'i" ...... '-) (' ,-.... :::: .~~..., ~ . ~ -. ..__,0 -. "1::! ..-..,. '-) ::::"1::! I::! ~ 0') ~ ~ ~ f.r)'" • N~

rn ~ 0 0 ~

"/" L jpl -

/ PLATE IV

:3 o o ~ PLATE V

Traditional design on a silver pen.iant known as potaliya -- a neck ornament worn by K anbi woman PLATE VI

' .. PLATE VII

• •••••• <9 ..... " ...... o.aoo......

Some more designs PLATE VIII

...... _...... _...... __ ... _...... -.. :...... \ ...... y. _. - : ::1:::.,!~·.·{.)·.... .' :...... ·~ ....~ .... l\. ... t.~··; >'. :! .r·· : ~ ...... -.. :: ~! : ...1: : ..... \...... : -.Ie"-: !, .:.",: : ~ l i/' : i i .~: :: ;i:· ~' . •.: ...• : ... ,: : ;... .:: : i '::: .. ' ~ "... .i;: l':' : ,. \. 'I'" ••• "s'...... : f. 1: a : i ...... ··..'i ~ .• : '...... ~."~ .11:...... ••••• .:,.. v:-rw... if )!: .• -., ...... t: . ·Vl: .1.0:,,.•. :: ! :! \ ... :!. : • ( ...... 1. :.... I ..: ,. : '" }! I 1• ..).,,-: :.~: I :I,...... -...... \:: .: : t :\.::::.!:.-.: ...... i \ .. :: Il""" 'I '::' ·i,.... ·.,.. ··.C .. ·.;.._' ~: . •• ...• fl. -...... •••• i" •••. J,•• •. ' ....._ t :•• • I t-..·_· .. _··_··...... _ ... -.'.H .....' . .... --...... _-., ...... :" .... ; Traditional designs in pendants PLATE IX

. ,

Wire-drawing - a manual operation PLATE · X

Winding wire to make a coil PLATE XI

,

,. ';,'~;;"J<""""", ..~,,,

Flattening the wzre / PLATE XII

Heating PLATE XIII

Checking with the help of design drawn on paper

Flattening the sheet PLATE XIV

Arranging wzre according to the design prior to soldering PLATE XV

Soldering PLATE XVI

Cutting silver sheet into shape

I I PLATE XVII

Making of a chain PLATE XVIII

\ 1

Affixing hooks to "po taliya , PLATE XIX PLATE XX

Removing redundant parts ,I PLATE XXI

I Polishing with a brush in soap-nut water PLATE XXII

Soldering the piece.I of a chain

I I PLATE XXIII

,

Filing PLATE XXIV

,..,..,. _'''X' ,"". ~~ -: ~

(. f ,If . i:,~·' ~ {- 1,4

., -;.: ...- .. / . -.: i ~,.

Final touch I I PLATE XXV

Traditional Ornaments (PLATES XXV- LV ) \.

2 3

1, Thalia)' ·2 and 3. Taroti PLATE XXVI

Top and Bot~om : Front and back of 'kokar()a'-an ear ornament PLATE XXVII

/

Necklace with leaf-like pendant and coins worn by tribals PLATE XXVIII PLATE XXIX

Hansadj

Ekdami PLATE XXX

Madaliyu PLATE XXXI

•

'Kadu' (Armlet) with tiger head PLATE XXXII

•

...... ,.

/ - PLATE XXXIII

.~ PLATE XXXIV

3

1

1 and 4. Bl!di.; 2. Kadan and 3. Girdle (Kalldoro)

/ PLATE XXXV

Kambi (Anklet) PLATE XXXVI PLATE XXXVII PLA TE XXXVIII PLATE XXXIX PLATE XL

Langar (Anklets) PLATE XLI

1 1

ORNAMENTS: 1. Chudij 2. Kataria~' ? ' Vadhloj -1 and 6. Bhorindaj 5. Earrings and 7. Hansadi PLATE XLII

Bangles, ear ornaments and necklaces PLATE XLIII

<;:! ...... ~ ~ I,Q "'1;;j ~ <;:! ...... ---...... ~ '---" ..... to ~ ...l< ~ ,...,'. ~ ~ll") ~ <;:! ,...,'., ~ .., "'1;;j <;:! C'(') ~ ...... "" <;:! ...l< "" ~ ~ ...... ""<;:! ...l<.., r--: ""~ '"<;:! ~ <;:! ~... ..,~ C'<") ~ '., <;:! ...--- ~ ~ - ~ <;;) ~ to .., ~ i ~ ~ ~ <;;) l,;. ~ "'-..J ...... h ~ "'1;;j ~ ,<;:!

~ ...... " PLATE XLIV

o ......

."

. ~

co PLATE XLV 1 2

3

4 7 8 5 6 1, and 2. Balaiyas)' 3 and 4. Armlets (KambiL' 5 and 6. Anklets (Kada) ; 7 and 8. Jhanjhar

Different types of ,Kalla' worn on ftet by Marwadi and Bha~wad women PLATE XLVI

'", PLATE XLVII 1

2

1. Vadhlo and 2. Earrings

Hand and neck ornaments PLATE XLVIII

Traditional necklace '\ PLATE XLIX PLATE L

,_ !:>I.l .....::: t ~ kl lc'5

~ ;:: ~ ">:!-<

'", .---... ~ ...,~ ~ ~ ------.. ~ 'I) ~ ~ ~ eIJ c ~ <..:> ~ CI:-;• ..... ---~ ...__,~ -...~ ~ I:! . ~ ~ ~ ~ -~ PLATE LI

<:>,:) ~ ~

~'" ~'" '.,.,~ ...... ~ {l ~ <:>,:) ~ ~ ~..... ~ c.o ."i" '"~ '"" ..... ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ C'<) C'\.i" ....." ':S ~ ~ ~ l!"-j '1::! ::::: ~

I""""f ...... PLATE LII

2

J

1

3

4

J/{odern set oj 'Jadtar' (Inlay work) 1. Necklace)' 2 and 3. Ear-tops and 4. Bracelet PLATE LIII

co

...... ~'" {; ~ ~ ~ "-;

~ ~ r;::j

0')

."\ ..---.... -..~ ~ r;::j ....___.~

~ r;::j ~ ~ cci ~ O'l ~ r;::j

.....""."\ C'-I ""f3 ~ 0 ~ ~

~ '"~ r;::j

~

~'" <..l ...... r;::j ~ ~ ~

'"~ ''''' ~ ~ ..... '" ~ ~

."\ '"~ '.,..:,... :,... r;::j ~ ex-)

~ ~ r;::j "-; PLATE LIV

1

3

4

1. Patla (BanglesL· 2. Kangan (BanglesL· 3. Necklace and 4. Earrings PLATE LV

Traditional ornaments ~ on display for sale by a silversmith PLATE LVI

Modern Adaptation of Traditional Designs (PLATES LVI-LXXIII) PLATE LVII PLATE LVIII

- PLATE LIX 1

2

'.

Jayshree Jancy set: 1. Har i 2. Earrings and 3. Bracelet PLATE LX

~ '""1)0.. ~ '\) ~ u:. C'<')

~ >:: I::j '-l ....~ - t: ~ ~ ..,'" <.,) ~ ~ ~. "; PLATE LXI

1

2

2

3

3

Jayshree Ghugharu set 1. Neck ornament}· 2. Earrings and 3. Bracelets PLATE LXII PLATE LXIII

...... ~

'. PLATE LXIV

-.. PLATE LXV

. ~

. --'. PLATE LXVI

K atak necklace

'Pan-no-necklace' PLATE LXVII PLATE LXVIII PLATE LXIX

. "-i PLATE LXX

. ~ PLATE LXXI

~ .~ ~ ~ ~ c..;

~ ~ ~ ~

...... ---. ~ ~;:: - :,... 3-

~ ::§ ~ ~ ....:::,

.~ ~ ~. "'::jo.,

""'I;:j ~ ~

~

- PLATE LXXII

-... -

I PLATE LXXIII

....~ PLATE LXXIV

Not a pendant but a key bunch PLATE LXXV

A silver jug PLATE LXXVI

....--. ~ >:: ,. ~ (" I::l ~ I::l ~...., ''''' ~ ~ ~ , l!o.. <>.) .....-..;::;, "" ~ '--'" ...... , l!o.. ~

. I PLA TE LXXVII

~ I PLATE LXXVIII

A silver wine jar wrought into a beautiful design of Kutch work PLATE LXXIX

A silv6r jug PLATE LXXX

A Chookah' covered with silver sheet PLATE LXXX!

Traditional neckwear of a tribal PLATE LXXXII

Their ·ornaments, their pride and pleasure • PLATE LXXXIII

Traditional ornaments have their own charm PLATE LXXXIV

I.r PLATE LXXXV

fl'oman bedecked with traditional ornaments APPENDICES

APPENDIX I

TABLE I

Di.trib.tioD. of surveyed households

Total No. No. of No. of of hired Total No. of families households workera No. of adult workers 'l\'orking engaging em~loyed N arne of village.1 famille. under co- other hired In towns surveyed surveyed Penons Males Female. operation workers production

2 :3 4 5 6 7 8 Rajkot 37 61 61 25

Paddhari 1~ 39 38 Palitana 3 12 12 Mandvi 45 60 57 3 21 Anjar 31 52 52 Bhuj 45 70 651

Nadiad 78 1~0 190 12 17 ~S T.tal 2~2 424 419 5 " 17 33

TABLE II

Distribution of family members aoc:ording to .«e, sex and earning statuI

Pcrsoni Malea Female~

Age group WOT4.ers Non-workers Total Workers Non-workers Total Workers Non-workers Total

2 3 4- 5 6 7 8 9 to 0- 4 258 258 IS7 137 121 121 5- 9 303 303 174 174 129 129 10-14 1 264 265 1 139 140 125 125 15-19 23 149 172 22 73 95 76 77 20-24 65 128 193 64 40 1M 88 89 25-29 65 87 152 64 8 72 79 80 30-34 67 74. 141 66 6 72 68 69 35-44 97 99 196 96 9 105 90 91 45-59 84- 87 171 84- 8 92 '79 79 60 & over 29 55 84 29 II 40 44 44-

Tqt~l 431 1,504 1,935 416 605 1,031 5 904 t3 "' 44 APP:aNDIX I TABLE m IJteraey according iO age and sex

Penons Males Females Age I"oup IL L p s sse D G Total IL L p s sse D G Total IL L P S sse D G 1'otal 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22.23 24 25

0- 4 250 .. 8 ...... 258 135 . • 2...... 137 115 .. 6 .. .. 121 5- 9 118 18 166 • • 1 . • .. 303 65 II 98 .. " 174 53 7 68 " 1 .. " 129 10-14 19 29 195 20 2 .. .. 265 8 13 105 12 2 .. .. 140 II 16 90 8 .• 125 15-19 7 24 100 30 II . . .. 172 3 13 49 21 9 95 4 11 51 9 2 ., .• 77 20-24 15 19 122 17 18 2 . . 193 2 14 56 15 15 2 .• 104 13 5 66 2 3 89 25-29 7 17 113 9 5.. 152 5 52 9 5 .. 7'1. 7 12 61 .• 80

30-34 18 12 106 ... ~ .. .. 141 3 6 58 4 1 72 15 6 48 .• 69 35--44 29 41 120 5.. .. 196 23 75 5 ., 1 .. 105 28 18 45 " 91 45-59 38 32 96 ;; .. .• .. 171 5 16 66 5 ., 92 33 16 30 .• 79 60 &. over 37 11 36 ...... M 5 7 28 .... 4

Total 538 203 1,061. 90 38 3 1 1,935 117 108 589 71 31. 3 1 1,031 311 95 473 19 6 . . .. 904

IL=IUiterate, L=Litente, P"",Primary, S-Secondary, SSC-Secoodacy School Certificate J,xaminalioo, D-Diplorna, G-Graduate.

TABLE IV

Work.hop.

No. of No. of households perJOns having No. of rooms wed for workshop No. of in the Name of villages! house­ house­ Own Rented One Two Three Four More taan towns JUrvcyed holds holds workshops workshops room rooms rooms rooml four roOIl1l

3 5 6 7 8 9 10

R-,ikot 37 324 8 29 32 2 Paddhri 13 129 7 • 13 Pa}itana 3 50 3 2

Uandvi 45 283 32 13 5 3 3 3 Anjar 31 247 15 16 6 2 Blluj 45 352 Ii- 31 7

Nadiad 78 550 32 46 6 19 2 3

Total 252 1.t3S 111 141 63 6 7 APPENDIX I ... 5

TABLE V

Di_triblltion oC arti_anl' CamiUel according to incom.e group

Name of Total No. of No. of households in the annual income group of (Rs.) villages! households towns engaged in 2,300 & Income surveyed the (raft 1-100 101-200201-500 501·800 801-1,0001,001-1,5001,501-2,0002,001-2,500 above! unspecified

2 3 4- 5 ~ 7 8 9 10 11 12

Rajkot 37 10 5 14 6 Paddhari 13 5 4- 2 Palitana 3 S Mandvi 45 3 2 Ii 21 7 5 Anjar 31 6 5 20 Bhuj 45 4- 13 8 4 7 8 Nadiad 78 7 14- 16 19 14 5 3

Total 252 10 17 18 61 40 25 19 35 APPENDIX II

BIOGRAPHY 1

NAME: Gagubhai Khushalbhd Vagadia; AGE: 67;

OCCUPATION: Supervision of engraving, fretting and diamond sttting on silver, gold and other metals;

AoDlUSS: Soni Bazaar, Rajkot.

Bombay helped me in joinwg tUi cc,une w1 en INTRODUCTION I was 20 years old. After 3 months, after I I was horn in V.S. 1953, i.e., 1896 A.D. at learn t drawing and some engraving work I was Monzi. I have completc'd 67 yeClrs. I have relieved from the institution, viz., J. J. School passed 3rd vernacular standard. I have my of Arts, Bombay on the medical certificate as own shop, where I look after the work of I suffered from dysentry. Then I served for engraving, fretting, diamond setting and other three mon ths without salary in Vinayakrao's related prOCesse~ of the craft done by hired and (Dakshani) shop at Paydhuni, Bombay to learn family workers. further technique of engraving.

TRAINING IN CRAFT MIGRATION Al(D CASTE HISTORY

My father was engaged in the same occupa­ Originally our forefathefi hailed from Patan tion and as such I can say that this is our in North Gujarat but migrated to Klltaria in ancestral occupation. In the past, nobody Vagad (Kutch). It is S;aid that duriJI.g the revealed his technique of making ornaments reign ,of Ghori Badshah; Thakor Kayaji of and other related processes to other persons. Vagad conquered Morvi and as faithful Soni Once, I was observing the technique of engrav­ citizens they accompanit'd him to that place. I ing in Tribhovan Parshottam's shop innocently migrated to Rajkot in 1926 A.D. Ten genera­ but when somebody drew his attention towards tions have passed since then. In Morvi, Gondal me, he become angry and ran with a fork to beat and Mandvi, there are now 800 persons des­ me. When my father came to know about this, cended from the original family of 8 to 10 he at onCe started training me in engraving. I members. As we came from Patan and Vagad, was very eager to become a reputed engraver like people call us Patadia or Vagadia. As surnames Kanaiya and Ganpat of Bombay. Both of them in our Visha Shrimali Soni caste are derived were arrested for printing counterfeit curfmcy from place names, different groups are called notes. When a pleader said that the hands of Gondalia, Mandvia, Halwadia, Jambusaria, etc. such persons should be cut off, the artisam Shrimali perhaps indicates those migrated from retorted that even then they can draw and Shrimal or Bhinmal. In the four furctional carve the designs on ornaments by their toes. categories ordained by Manu, we belong to This instance gave me inspiration for becoming Vaishya or merchant class but have taken an expert craftsman. At the age of 9, I started up the occupation of Soni or goldsmith which to learn the work of drawing and engraving on is Shudra category. ornaments and at the age of 14, I completed FAMILY HISTORY my training. In the J. J. School of Arts at Bombay, I studied drawing and engraving before 48 years, Of my two married sons Govindbhai started after signing an agreemen t to study there for training at the age of 7 and appeared in ele­ three years. Shri Popadal Lalji, an advocate of mentary drawing examination at tbe age of 11. APPENDIX II

He has passed only 2 primary standards. The beoame angry and asked me to leave the house, second son GokaldalO starteQ trainic,g at the 4l.ie whereupon I came to Rajkot with my brothers 9 or 10 years while studying at school. This in V.S. 1982, where I had the prospects of year, i.e., in 1964 A.D. he appeared at S.S.a. earning my livelihood. I thus settled in Rajkot. examination bHt failed. Both are reputed crafts­ At that time Vanmali had completed 10 years. men in engraving and di.:mond setting. My My marriage took place ot! Margashirsh Vad brother Vanmali was hom on Pau9R Vad 8, when I was 28. My father expired on Pausa 11, V.S. 1968 at Rajkot and another brother Vad 11 in V.S. 1995. I received tools and Parshottam was born on Bhadrapad 3(1 V.S. utensils, etc., worth Rs. 2,371 llS my share in 1"971 at Junagadh. Both are engaged in the my father's property. :tame work in which my family is engaged. At HEALTH, HOBBIES .AND HABITii the time I was 23 years of age, when my family was on its way to Shrinathji on Chaitra Vad 2, I had also estabtished one training school my brother Vanmali accidentally fell down from at Rajkot and trained 600 students. One of the train betwew Wadhwan 3.lld Viramgam my relative, has also started a training school stations. My father erroneously suspected me in Bhanyad on my advice. The artisans being of foul play. I feel that life sentence would be conservative did not show the technique of this the result, if my father gave his evidence to craft to others, which gave me the idea of th?t effect. Fortunately we stopped the train opening a training school by which I satisfied and Van mali was found uninjured. This my desire to spread the knowledge of the craft. increased my faith in God Shrinathji. Since that In Rajkot, there were a few shops ellgaged in day I became religiouii minded and practise all ellgraving and diamond settin!, etc., of the rules and restrictions of Vaishllava religion. craft when I came here. We work honestly and While at Morvi, I was once Oil the foint of live a bappy life. I visit daily ha'IJeli temple dea~h but my nearest relatives prayed to God regularly. I read religious books during day­ to save my life and I was saved. On my time and !ing bhajan and kirlan in the mornini acceptance of the Vaishnava faith, my father and evening. BIOGRAPHY 2

NAME: Jivraj Gokalbhai Kadivar; AGE: 3+;

OCCUPATION: Preparation and Euamelling work of Silver Leaves;

ADD.USi; Bedipara, Rajkot.

given me financial help in this purchase. In all INTRODUCTION there arc 3 small rooms and 2 kitchens. I My birthplace is Hadmatiya, 6 miles away engage 2 workers of my caste when required, from Rajkot. I have completed 34 yean. I have otherwise my wife and two sons, who are studied up to 5th vcrnacuhn standards and 1st attending school, help me i.n my work. We English standard. I am Valia Kumbhar by work for 10 to 12 hours and ,Jpproximately caste. Perhaps there are 8 sub-castei of Kum­ earn Rs. 125 per month. bhar. FAMILY HIiTORY TRAINING AND DBViLOP.ENT OF CBAPT My family includes mf wife and four sons. My father mi~rated to Rajkot [rom Gavridad I have one married brother, one married sister when I was 15 years old. He is a ma~on or and parents. My third brother died of T.B. at brick-layer by occupation. Hil; fmancial position the age of 22, when his wife was about to come was very weak and he had incurred a debt of to our house for the first time, as his was a Rs. 3,000. I was, therefore, compelled to give child marriage. He had taken education up to 3 up my study. As an apprentice I Was given vernacular standards. He was also working in tea twice or thrice only when I worked a.t silver. My marriage took place when I was 9 making silver ornaments in Popadal Kansara's years old but I started my married life at thej shop. Thereafter I joined the establishment of age of 22. My baby of 2 years died of whoop. our nearest relative Shri Bavalal engaged in ing cough. My father scill works in masonry rolling and pressing work on a monthly salary work and he earns a daily wage of Rs. i. This of R.c;. 5 ollly. Seven years ago I started my own rate was Rs. 3 per day in the past. My younger establishment of manufacturing silver leaves brother of 16 has start~d working in silver since with enamel colour for other merchants. They last 6 months and earns Rs. 20 per month. supply me with raw material and pay me labour He has passed 4 vernacular standards. charges. My monthly produttion of these arti­ HEALTH AND I-lABITI cles is nearly 2,000 IIlas, i.e., RJ. 5,000. All the techniques and procclI.'5es are carried on by I was the victim of general debility twice hand in my lUlit. I am working in my howe in my life but was cured after medical tft:at. in one of the kitchen-rooms. I used to pay ment. I wish that my sons become doctors. I Rs. 17 per month as rent but 5 months ago I smoke and take tea. I do not get time for have purchased it at Rs. 8,000. My father has recreation.

"8 GLOSSARY

A J

Adi or Dai Mould Jatardo Sizing plate (holed-stripe) Angarlia Private agency {or transport of goods from one place to another through K persons engaged in this work Angreji a!hado Shaped like English numeral eight Kada Armlets Ankdo • A hook Kadi A ring A,i A law Kaidapati A stripe Kalash A pot; a metal pot mounted on the dome of a temple • Kallan/Kadla Anklets BajolA Low wooden seat Kankavati A bowl for keeping red turmeric Bedi Anklets powder or kumkum mixed with Bhajan kiTtan Devotional songs in praise of God water Bhandar • Treasure Kanas File Bidi Indigenous cigarette Kandoro Girdle; a chain usually of silver worn Buff pati Polishing-stripe on the waist Kania tDla Scales-weights Kamp or Butli Earrings Kapni Shears Chandan • Sandalwood Khus Saccharum spolltaneum Chhada or Sankla Anklets Kutchi kant . Kutch work Ckhini A c:hile} Kumkum Vermilion; red turmeric powder Chhipna Gravers KtJndalas or CMotani • A Icraper Keyuras Earrings

D L

Damar Asphalt Lagiyo Crooked iron and wooden rod Divaihami Blower Lauingiya • An ornament of the ear Divi Lamp-stand Lelo A scraper Dul Earrings M E Mahajan A guild Mathanu A square hammer Ekalvai 'T' shaped rod Dirt Ensi tachi chandi Having 80% pure silver MIL Meena kam. Enamel work Eran An anvil Mohar A gold coin med in the past Coronet G Mugat Mus An earthen crucible Gol A group or circle Gotilo Round headed nail o

H OPni Polishing implement Orkal • A touchatone Haveli Temple of Pushtirnargiya Vai.hnava 'Iect established by Vallabhacharya p Hatlwdi A .mall ham.mer Hatlwdo A hammer Pagpan • Anklet. HIIft" Emery Pahlo Half-holed square 49 J B-7 50 GLOSSARY

P-contd. IS Sana Fork Paholo rejo • • Broad .lab Sagdi Hearth Pakad or savadho Pliers Sankali Long chain Pan da.'1i or Pan dabo Box for keeping betel-leaves Sans; Pincers pfJTl Betel-leaf Ster A mell~ure of weight 0.466 kg. Patiya Sheets Shardi . ' A drill Peclt patli Screw-vice Sigro A vice Pokhani or Toti An earring shaped like a reel Supari Betel-nut Pokhnas Articles used in the marriage ceremony while welcoming the T bride and bridegroom Toda Anklets Tola A measure of weight; a fortieth part of a seer .. Trak Iron spoke; pointed iron rod

Rajan Rosin v Ramandivo A hanging lamp carried by the bride­ Vaidhrit The 27th astronomical yoga groom's mother in the wedding Veni badam Almond shaped design of ornament procession Vyatipat Name of one of the 27 yogas Rava or Rava bharat Design with small dota z Rejo Mould Zanzar • Ankleta IN DE X

A G

'A city of temple', 3, 29 Gajabhai Khushalbhai, 36 Aden, 35 Gandhidham, 2 A ramine in Rajasthan, 4 Gold Control Order, 1963, 28, 35, 37 Africa, 4- Gondal, 2, 22 Agency, 29 Great Bhuj Fort, 4- Aina MahaI, 4 H Ajanta, 1 AjepaI, 3,5 Handicrafts and Industrial Arts of India, I Ajmer,3, Haripur, 29 Akhil Hind Shrimali Soni Mahamandal Training Institute, Harsha, 2 Rajkot, 36 Hired workers, 10 Amritsar, 12, 29 History of Mediaeval Hindu India, Andhkar and Dhundhkllr, 7 Hiuen Tsang, 1, 2 Angor Pir, 3 Holand, 5 Anjar, 2, 3, 5, 8, 10, 22 Antiquity of the craft, 4 I Association and cooperation, 34 Indore, 29 B J Bana, 2 Jamnagar, 2, 3, 8, 22 Banaras, 29 Jesalmer, 4 Bhanvad Pattani Soni Gnati Hunnarshala, 37 Jesal-Toral, 3 Bhatias, 4 Jodhpur, 4, 29 Bhavsarwad, 9 Jodiya,3 Bhuj, 2, 3, 4, 8, 10 Bikaner,29 K Bombay, 2, 12, 29 Kanpur,29 'Buff Polish', 17 Karachi,4 c Keshavlal Mansukhlal, 5 Khari,3 Capital investment, 31 Khengarji, 3 Ghhada or Sankala, 19,32 Kinlock Forbes, 3 Conelusion, 38, 39 Kolhapur,2 Cost of production, 31 !Kutch work,' 2, 22

D II 'Lezim', 29 Delhi, 4, 29 Literacy, 9 Designs, 20 Location of the centre., 2, 3, 4 Dharmasinb Premji, 5 Lord Mllhavir, 20 DhroI, 3, 5 Lucknow, 29 Diamond setting, 16 Luhar, 7 Divakaramitra, 2 Dondi river, 3 M

E Madras, 2 Enamel work, 16 Mahabharat, 1, 38 F Maharao Shree Lakhapatji, 5 Mandvi, 2, 5, 8, 10, 22 Feteh Mahmad's House, 4 Manipur.36 51 52 INDEX

M-contd. s

Mansinhji Gohel, 5 5ah or Sinha, 6 Manu, 1 Salem, 2 Megasthenes, 1 Sale procedure, 29 Mohenjodaro, I Satpipli,9 Mombasa,4 Satyagraha, 3, 4 Morvi,5 Saurashtra Small-Scale 'Industrial Cooperative Bank Muhammed Panna Masjid, 4 Ltd., 35, Semi-precious stones, I N -Agate, I -Amethyst, 1 Nadiad, 2, 4, 8, 10, 22 -Amazon, I Nathdwara, 29 -Carnelian, I New Kandla, 3, 4- -Chalcedony, I o -Jasper, 1 -Lapis lazuli, Opening ceremony locka, 20 Shetrunjaya, 3 Ornaments, I, 2, 19, 23, 31 Shivaji, 2 -History, I, 2 Siddhakshetra, 3 -Introductory, 1 Sidhraj Jaysing, 7 p Sirohi,4 Shree Nadiad Chandi Pittal Nakahikaroni Audyogic Sahakari Mandali Ltd" 35 Paddhari, 2, 3, 5, 8, 10, 22 Pahola rejo, 19 Shri Vilhvakarma Hunnarshala, 36 'Shroff Bazaar', 9 Palitana, 2, 3, 5, 8, 10, 22 Pan dabo, 29, 32 Shops and Establishments Act, 11 Soni,6 Patna,29 Soniwlld,9 Pokhani, 17, 18, 52 Prototype Centre, 3 'Soni Runner Prakash,' 36 Predoua atones, 1 Soni Udyogi Sahakari Mandali Ltd., Mandvi, 35 -Beryl, 1 Source of capital, 31 -Crystal, 1 Speciality of centre •. 22 -Garlands, 1 Structure of the craft, 34: -Tiaras, 1 T Price and production, 28 Tankara, 5 Punjab, 4 Technique, IS, 16, 17 Purahottamdas Jadavaji, 36 -Alloying, 15 R -Assaying, 15 -Designing, shaping and soldering, IS, 16 Rajkot, 2, 3, 5, 8, 10, 22 -Polishing, 15, 11 Rajkot Engraving School No. I, 36, 37 -Rolling and prening, 15, 16 Rajkot Sona Chandi Udyog Mandali Ltd., 34, 35 The fertile track of Charotar, 4 -Capital structure, 35 The Small Industries Service Inltitute, 3 -Membership, 34- Tools, 14, 15 -Main objects, 34 Training. 36 Ra Lakha's Chhatri, 4 Types of ornaments, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27 Ramllyan, I, 38 Ramsang Malam, 5 w Rasmala,3 Wage structure, 32 Raw materials, 12 Wankaner,2 Rigved, 1, 38 Working force, 8 Rukmavati river, 4 Workshop and dwelling, 9 LIST OF AGENTS FOR THE SALE OF GOVERNMENT OF INDIA PUBLICATIONS AS ON 17-2-1964 S. S. BObk Emporium, 118, Mount joy Road AGARTALA- The Bangalore Press, Lake View, Mysore Road, Laxmi Bhandar Books & Scientific Sales (R) P. O. Box 507 AGRA-- The Standard Book Depot, Avenue Road National Book House, Jeoni Mandi Vichara Sahitya Private Ltd., Balepet Wadhawa & Co., 45, Civil Lines Makkala Pustaka Press, Balamandira, Gandhinagar Banwari Lal jain, Publishers, Moti Katra (R) Maruthi Book Depot, Avenue Road (R) English Book Depot, Sadar Bazar, Agra Cantt. (R) International Book House Private Ltd., 4-F, Mahatma AHMADNAGAR- Gandhi Road Navakarnataka Pubns. Private Ltd., Majestic Circle (R) V. 'T. jorakar, Prop., Rama General Stores, Navi BAREILLY- Path (R) Agarwal Brothers, Bara Bazar AHMEDABAD- BARODA- Balgovind Kuber Dass & Co., Gandhi Road Chandra Kant Chiman Lal Vora, Gandhi Road Shri Chandrakant Mohan Lal Shah, Raopura (R) New Order Book Co., Ellis Bridge . Good Companions Booksellers, Publishers & Sub­ Mahajan Bros., Opp., Khadia Police Gate (R) Agent (R) Sastu Kitab Ghar, Near Relief Talkies, Patthar Kuva, New Medical Book House, 540, Madan Zampa Road (R) Relief Road BEAWAR- The Secretary, S. D. College, Co-operative Stores AJMER- Ltd. (R) Book-Land, 663, Madar Gate BELGHARIA- Rajputana Book House, Station Road Law Book House, 271, Hathi Bhata Granthlok, Antiquarian Booksellers & Publishers Vijay Bros., Kutchery Road (R) (24-Parganas), 5/1 Amlica Mukherjee Road Krishna Bros., Kutchery Road (R) BHAGALPUR- ALIGARH- Paper Stationery Stores, D. N. Singh Road Friend's Book House, Muslim University Market BHOPAL- ALLAHABAD- Superintendent, State Government Press Lyall Book Depot, Mohd. Din Bldg., Sultania Road Superintendent, Printing & Stationery, U. P. Delite Books, Opp., Bhopal Talkies (R) Kitabistan, 17-A, Kamla Nehru Road Law Book Co., Sardar Patel Marg, P. Box 4 BHUBANESWAR- Ram Narain Lal Beni Modho, 2-A, Katra Road Ekamra Vidyabhaban, Eastern Tower, Room No.3 (R) Universal Book Co., 20, M. G. Road • BIjAPUR- The University Book Agency (of Lahore), Elgin Shri D. V. Deshpande, Recognised Law Booksellers, Prop. Road Vinod Book Depot, Near Shiralshetti (,..howk (R) Wadhwa & Co., 23, M. G. Marg (R) BIKANER- Bharat Law lIouse, 15, Mahatma Gandhi Marg (R) Bhandani Bros. (R) Ram Narain Lal Beni Prashad, 2-A, Katra Road (R) BlLASPUR- AMBALA- ' Sharma Book Stall, Sadar Bazar (R) English Book Depot, Ambala Cantt. BOMBAY- Seth Law House, 8719, Railway Road, Ambala Superintendent, Printing & Stationery, Queens Road Cantt. (R) Charles Lambert & Co., 101, Mahatma Gandhi Road AMRITSAR- Co-operator's Book Depot, 5/32, Ahmed Sailor Bldg., Dadar The Law Book Agency, G. T. Road, Putligarh Current Book House, Maruti Lane, Raghunath S. Gupta, Agent, Govt. Publications, Near P. O. Dadaji st. Mlliith Mandi Current Technical Literature Co., Private Ltd., India Amar Nath & Sons, Near P. O. Majith Mandi House, 1st Floor ANAND- International Book House Ltd., 9, Ash Lane, Vijaya Stores, Station Road (R) M. G. Road Lakkani Book Depot, Girgaum Charotar Book Stall, TuM Sadan, Stn. Road (R) ASANSOL- Elpees Agencies, 24, Bhangwadi, Kalbadevi P. P. H. Book Stall, 190-B, Khetwadi Main Road D.N. Roy & R.K. Roy Booksellers, AtwaI Building (R)· New Book Co. 188-190, Dr. Dadabhai Naoroji Road BANGALORE- I Popular Book Depot, Lamington Road . The • Bangalore Legal Practitioner Co-operatjve Sunder Das Gian Chand, 601, Girgaum Road, Near Society Ltd., Bar Association Building Princess Street Lis' of Agents-4ontd.

BOMBAY-contd. English Book Shop, 34, Sector 22-D (R) Mehta Bros., IS-Z, Sector 22·B (R) D. B. Taraporewala Sons & Co., (P)· Ltd., 210, Tandan Book Depot, Shopping Centre, Sector 16 (R) Dr. Dadabhai Naoroji Road Thacker & Co., Rampart Row Kailash Law Publishers, Sector 22·B (R) N. M. Tripathi Private Ltd., Princess Street CHHINDWARA- The Kothari Book Depot, King Edward Road The Verma Book Depot (R) P. H. Rama Krishna & Som, 147, Rajalam Bhuvan, CO CHIN- Shivaji Park Road No.5 (R) Saraswat Corporation Ltd., Palliarakav Road C. Jamnadas & Co., Booksellers, 146-C, Princess St. Indo Nath & Co., A-6, Daulat Nagar, Borivli CUTIACK- ' Minerva Book Shop, Shop No. 1180, N. Subhas Road Press Officer, Orissa Sectt. Academic Book Co., Association Building, Girgautrl Cuttack Law Times Road (R) Prabhat K. Mahapatra, Mangalabag, P.B. 35 Dominion Publishers, 23, Bell Building, Sir P. M. D. P. Sur & Sons, Mangalabag (R) ~oad (R) Utkal Stores, Balu Bazar (R) Bombay National History Society, 91 Walkeshwar DEHRADUN- Road (R) Jugal Kishore &. Co., Rajpur Road Dowamadeo & 00., 16, Naziria Building, Ballard National News Agency, Paltan Bazar Estate (R) Bishan Singh and Mahendra Pal Singh, 318, Asian Trading Co., 31e, the Miraball, P.B. 1505 (R) Chukhuwala CALCUTIA- Utam Pustak Bhandar, Paltan Bazar (R) Chatterjee & Co., 3/1, Bacharam Chatterjee Lane DELHI- Dass Gupta & Co., Ltd., 54/3, College Street J. M. Jaina & Brothers, Mori Gate Hindu Library, 69 A, Bolaram De Street Atma Ram & Som, Kashmere Gate S. K. Lahiri & Co., Private Ltd., College Street Federal Law Book Depot, Kashmere Gate M. C. Sarkar & Sons Private Ltd., 14, Bankim Bahri Bros., 188, Lajpat Rai Market Chatteljee Street Bawa Harkishan Dass Bedi (Vijaya General Agencies) W. Newman & Co., Ltd., 3, Old Court House Street P.B. 2027, Ahata Kedara, Chamalian Road Oxford Book and Stationery Co., 17, Park Street Book-Well,4, Sant Narankari Colony, P. B. 1565 R. Chambray & Co., Ltd., Kent House, P. 33, Mission Imperial Publishing Co., 3, Faiz Bazar, Daryaganj Road Extension Metropolitan Book Go .... 1, Faiz Bazar S. C. Sarkar & Sons Private Ltd., I.C. College Square Publication Centre, Subzimandi Thacker Spink & Co., (1933) Private Ltd., 3, Esplanade Youngman &. Co., Nai Sarak, East ' Indian Army Book Depot, 3, Daryaganj Firma K. L. Mukhopadhaya, 6/1A, Banchha Ram All India Educational Supply Co., Shri Ram Buildings, Akrar Lane Jawahar Nagar (R) K. K. Roy, P. Box No. 10210, Calcutta-19 (R) Dhanwant Medical & Law Book House, 1522, Sm. P. D. Upadhyay, 77, Muktaram Babu Street (R) Lajpat Rai Market (R) Universal Book Dist., 8/2, Hastings Street (R) University Book House, 15, U. B. Bangalore Road, Modern. Book Depot, Chowringhee Centre (R) Jawabar Nagar (R) Soor & Co., 125, Canning Street Law Literature House, 2646, Balimaran (R) S. Bhattacharjee, 49, Dharamtala Street (R) Summer Brothers, P. O. Birla Lines (R) Mukherjee Library, 10, Sarba Khan Road Universal Book & Stationery Co., 16, Netaji Current Literature Co., 208, Mahatma Gandhi Road Subhash Marg The Book Depository, 4/1, Madan Street (1st Floor) (R) B. Nath & Bros" 3808, Charkhawalan (Chowri Scientific Book Agency, Netaji Subhash Road (R) Bazar) (R) Reliance Trading Co" 11/1, Banku Bihari Ghose Lane, Rajkamal Prakashan Pt:ivate Ltd., 8, Faiz Bazar District Howrah (R) Premier Book Co., Printers, Publishers & Booksellers, Indian Book Dist. Co., 6512, Mahatma Gandhi Road (R) Nai Sarak (R) CALICUT- Universal Book Traders, 80, Gokhle Market Touring Book Stall (R) Tech. &. Commercial Book Coy., 75, Gokhle Market (R) CHANDIGARH- Saini Law Publishing Co., 1416, Chabiganj, Kashmere Superintendent, Government Printing &. Stationery, Gate (R) Punjab G. M. Ahuja, Booksellers & Stationers, 309, Nehru Jain Law Agency, Flat No.8, Sector No. 22 Bazar (R) Rama News Agency, Booksellers, Sector No. 22 Sat Narain & Sons, 3141 Mohd, Ali Bazar, Mori Universal Book Store, Booth 25, Sector 22.D Gate

it List of Agcnts-contd.

DELHI·conld. JABALPUR- Kitab Mahal (Wholesale Div.) Private Ltd., 28, Faiz Bazar Modern Book House, 286, Jawaharganj Hindu Sahitya Sansar, Nai Sarak (R) National Book House, 135 Jai Prakash Narain Marg (R) Munshi Ram Manohar Lal, Oriental Booksellers JAIPUR- & Publishers, P. B. 1165, Nai Sarak (R) Government Printing and Stationery Department, K. L. Seth, Suppliers of Law, Commercial, Tech. Rajasthan Books, Shanti Nagar, Ganeshpura (R) Bharat Law House, Booksellers & Publishers, Opp., Adarsh Publishing Service, 5A/IO Ansari Road (R) Prem Prakash Cinema DHANBAD-- Garg Book Co., Tripolia Bazar Ismag Co-operative Stores Ltd., P. O. Indian School Vani Mandir, Sawai Mansingh Highway of Mines Kalyan Mal & Sons, Tripolia Bazar (R) New Sketch Press, Post Box 26 (R) Popular Book Depot, Chaura Rasta Krishna Book Depot, Chaura Rasta (R) DHARWAR- Dominion Law Depot, Shah Building, P.B. No. 23 (R) The Agricultural College Consumers Co-op. Society (R) Rameshraya Book Depot, Subhas Road (R) JAMNAGAR- Karnatakaya Sahitya Mandira of Publishers and Swadeshi Vastu Bhandar Booksellers JAMSHEDPUR- ERNAKULAM- Amar Kitab Ghar, Diagonal Road, P. B. 78 Pai & Co., Cloth Bazar Road (R) Gupta Stores, Dhatkidih South India Traders C/o Constitutional Journal Sanyal Bros., Booksellers & News Agents, Bistapur FEROZEPUR- Market (R) English Book Depot, 78, Jhoke Road JAWALAPUR- GAUHATI- Sahyog Book Depot (R) Mokshada Pustakalaya JHUNJHUNU- GAYA- Shashi Kumar Sarat Chand (R) Sahitya Sadan, Gautam Budha Marg Kapram Prakashan Prasaran, 1/90 Namdha Niwas, Azad GHAZIABAD- Marg (R) Jayana Book Agency (R) JODHPUR- GORAKHPUR- Dwarka Das Rathi. Wholesale Books and News Agellts Vishwa VidyalayQ Prakashan, Nakhes Road Kitab-Ghar, Sojati Gate Choppra Brothers, Tripolia Bazar GUDUR- The General Manager, The N.D.C. Publishing & Ptg. JULLUNDUR- Society Ltd. (R) Hazooria Bros., Mai Hiran Gate (R) GUNTUR- Jain General House, Bazar Bansanwala Book Lovers Private Ltd., Kadriguda, Chowrasta University Publishers, Railway Road (R) GWALIOR- KANPUR- Superintendent, Printing & Stationery, M.B. Advani & Co., P. Box 100, The Mall Loyal Book Depot, Patankar Bazar, Lashkar Sahitya Niketan, Shradhanand Park M. C. Daftari, Prop. M. B. Jain & Bros., The Universal Book Stall, The Mall Booksellers, Sarafa, Lashkar (R) Raj Corporation, Raj House, P. B. 200, Chowk (R) ,HUBLI- Pcrvaje'. Book House, Koppikar Road KARUR- HYDERABAD- Shri V. Nagaraja Rao, 26, Srinivasapuram (R) Director, Government Press KODARMA- The Swaraj Book Depot, Lakdikapul The Bhagwati Press, P.O. Jhumri Tilaiya, Dt.Hazaribag Book Lovers Private Ltd. (R) KOLHAPUR- Labour Law Publications, 873, Sultan Bazar (R) Maharashtra Granth Bhandar, Mahadwar Road (R) IMFHAL- KOTA- Tikendra & Sons, Booksellers (R) Kota Book Depot (R) INDORE- KUMTA- Wadhwa & Co., 56, M. G. Road S. V. Kamat, Booksellers & Stationers (N. Kanara) Swarup Brother'., Kbajuri Bazar (R) LUCKNOW- Madhya Pradesh Book Centre, 41, Ahilya Pura (R) Modem Book House, Shiv Vilas Palace (R) Soochna Sahitya Depot (State Book Depot) Navyug Sahitya Sadan, Publishers & Booksellers Balkrishna Book Co., Ltd., Hazratganj 10, Kbajuri Buar (R) , British Book Depot, 84, Hazratganj iii List of Agcnts-c.nld.

LUCKNOW-eOlltd. Geeta Book House, Booksellers & Publillher. Krishna­ Ram Advani, Hazratganj, P. B. 154 murthipuram (R) Universal Publishers (P) Ltd., Hazratganj News Paper House, Lansdowne Building (R) Eastern Book Co., Lalbagh Road Indian Mercantile Corporation, Toy Palace Ramvilas(R) Civil & Military Educational Stores, 106/B Sadar Bazar (R) NADIAD- Acquarium Supply Co., 213, Faizabad Road (R) R. S. DeBay Station Road (R) Law Book Mart, AmiTl-Vd-Daula Park (R) NAGPUR- LUDHIANA- Superintendent, Government Press & Book Depot Lyall Book Depot, Chaura Bazar Western Book Depot, Residency Road Mohindra Brothers, Katcheri Road (R) The Asstt; Secretary, Mineral Industry Association, Nanda Stationery Bhandar, Pustak Bazar (R) Mineral House (R) The Pharmacy News, Pindi Street (R) NAINITAL- Coural Book Depot, Bara Bazar (R) MADRAS- NANDED- Superintendent, . Government Press, Mount Road Book Centre, College Law General Books, Station Account Test Institute, P. O. 760 Emgore Road (R) C. Subbiah Chetty & Co., Triplicane Hindustan General Stores, Paper & Stationery K. Krishnamurty, Post Box 384 Merchants, P. B. No. 51 (R) Presidency Book Suppli~, 8, Pycroft Road, Triplicane Sanjoy Book Agency, Vazirabad (R) P. Vardhachary & Co., 8, Linghi Chetty Street NEW DELHI- Palani Parchuram, 3, Pycrofts Road, Triplicane Arnrit Book Co., Connaught Circus NCBH Private Ltd., 199, Mount Road (R) Bhawani & Sons, 8-F, Connaught Place V. Sadanand, The Personal Bookshop, 10, Congress Central News Agency, 23/90, Connaught Circus Buildings, Ill, Mount Road (R) Empire Book Depot, 278 AJiganj MADURAI- English Book Stores, 7-L, Connaught Circus, P.O.B. 328 Oriental Book House, 258, West Masi Street Faqir Chand & Sons, IS-A, Khan Market Vivekananda Press, 48, West Masi Street Jain Book Agency, e.9, Prem House, Connaught Plac' Oxford Book 1: Stationery Co., Scindia House MANDYA SUGAR TOWN- Ram Krishna & Sons (of Lahore) 16/B, Conn aught Placr K. N. Narimne Gowda & Sons (R) Sikh Publishing House, 7-C, Connaught Place MANGALORE- Suneja Book Centre, 24/90, Connaught Circus U. R. Shenoye Sons, Car Street, P. Box 128 United Book Agertcy, 31, Municipal Market MANJESHWAR- Connaughl Circus ' Mukenda Krishna Nayak (R) Jayana Book Depot, Chhaparwala Kuan, Karol Bagb MATHURA- Navayug Traders, Desh Bandhu Gupta Road, Dev NagaI Rath & Co., Tilohi Building, Bengali Ghat (R) Saraswati Book Depot, IS, Lady Harding Road MEERUT- The Secretary, Indian Met. Society, LOOi Road Prakash Educational Stores, Subhas Bazar New Book Depot, Latest Books, Periodicals, Sty. 8 Hind Chitra Press, West Kutchery Road Novelles, P. B. 96, Connaught Place Mehra Brothers, 50·G, Kalkaji Loyal Book Depot, Chhipi Tank Luxmi Book Stores, 42, Janpath (R) Bharat Educational Stores, Chhippi 'rank (R) Hindi Book House, 82, Janpath (R) Universal Book Depot, Booksellers & News People· Publishing House (P) Ltd., Rani Jhansi Road Agents (R) R. K. Publishers, 23, Beadon Pura, Karol Bagh (R) MONGHYR- Sharma Bros., 17, Ne\V Market, Moti Nagar Anusandhan, Minerva Press Buildings (R) Aapki Dukan, 5/5777; Dev Nagar (R) MUSSOORIE- Sarvodaya Service, 66A.l, RohtakRoad, P. B. 2521 (R Cambridge Book Depot, The Mall (R) H. Chandson. P. B. No. 3034 (R) Hind Traders (R) The Secretary, Federation of Association of Small MUZAFFARNAGAR- Industry of India, 23-B/2, Rohtak Road (R) Mittal & Co., 85-C, New Mandi (R) Standard Booksellers & Stationers, Palam Enclave (R) B. S. Jain & Co., 71, Abupura (R) Lakshmi Book Depot, 57, Regarpura (R) MUZAFFAR PUR- Sant Ram Booksellers, I6, New Municipal Market Scientific & Educational Supply Syndicate Lody Colony (R) Legal Corner, Tikmanio House, Arngola Road (R) PANJIM- Tirhut Book Depot (R) . Singhals Book House P.O.B. 70 Near the Church (R) Sagoon Gaydev Dhoud, Booksellers, 5-7 Rua, 3 Idc MYSORE- Jameria (R) H. Venkataramiah & Sons, New Statue Circle PATHANKOT- Peoples Book House, Opp., Jagan Mohan Palace The Krishna Book Depot, Main Bazar (R)

tv List of Agents-contd.

PATIALA- SHILLONG- Superintendent, Bhupendra State PreS8 The Officer-in-Charge, AS8am Government, B. D. Jain & Co., 17, Shah Nashin Bazar Chapla Bookstall, p'. B. No. 1 (R) PATNA- SONEPAT- Superintendent, Government Printing (Bihar) United Book Agency J. N. P. Agarwal & Co., Padri-Ki-Haveli, Raghu· SRINAGAR- nath Bhawan Luxmi Trading Co., Padri-Ki-Haveli The Kashmir Bookshop, Residency Road Moti Lal Banarsi Dass, Bankipore SURAT- Bengal Law House, Chowhatta (R) Shri Gajanan Pustakalaya, Tower Road PITHORAGARH- TIRUCHIRPALLI- Maniram Punetha & Sons (R) Kalpana Publishers, W08iur PONDICHERRY- S. Krishnaswami & Co., 35, Subhash Chander Bose MIs. Honesty Book House, 9 Rue Duplix (R) Road POONA- Palamiappa Bros. (R) Deccan Book Stall, Deccan Gymkhana TRIVANDRUM- Imperial Book Depot, 266, M. G. Road International Book Depot, Main Road International Book Service, Deccan Gymkhana Reddear PreS8 & Book Depot, P. B. No.4 (R) Raka Book Agency, Opp., Natu's Chawl, Near Appa Balwant Chowk TUTICORIN- Utility Book Depot, 1339, Shivaji Nagar (R) Shri K. Thiagar~an, IO-C, French Chapal Road (R) PUDUKOTIAI- UDAl PUR- Shri P. N. Swaminathan Sivam & Co., Eaat Main Jagdish & Co" Inside Surajapole (R) Road (R) Book Centre, Maharana, Bhopal Consumers, Co-op. RAJKOT- Society Ltd. (R) Mohan Cal DOS8abhai Shah, Booksellers and Sub-Agents VlJAIN- 'RANCHI- Manek Chand Book Depot, Sati Gate (R) Crown Book Depot, Upper Bazar Pustak Mahal, Upper Buar (R) VARANASI- REWA- Students Friends & Co., Lanka (R) Chowkhamba Sanskrit Series Office, Gopal Mandir Superintendent, Government State Emporium V. P. Road, P. B. 8 ROURKELA- Glob Book Centre (R) The Ro~kela Review (R) Kohinoor Stores, University Road, Lanka SAHARANPUR- B.H.U. Book Depot (R) Chandra Bharata Pustak Bhandar, Court Road (R) VELLORE- SECUNDERABAD- A. Venkatasubhan, Law Booksellers Hindustan Diary Publishers, Market Street VIjAYAWADA- SILCHAR- The Book & Review Centre, Eluru Road, Govempet (R) Shri Nishitto Sen, Nazirpatti (R) VISAKHAPATNAM- SIMLA- Gupta Brothers, Vizia Building Superintendent, Himachal Pradesh Government Book Centre, 11/97, Main Road Minerva Book Shop, The Mall The Secy. Andhra University, General Co-op. Storel The New Book Depot 79, The Mall Ltd. (R) SINNAR- VIZIANAGRAM- Shri N. N. Jakhadi, Agent, Times of India, Sinnar Sarda & Co. (R) (Nasik) (R) WARDHA- Swarajeya Bhandar, Bhorji Market Government of Indi.a Kitab Mahal, } JlUlpath, Opp.,India Coffee HOUle, l';ew Delhi For local sales High Commissioner for India in London. India Garernment of India Book Depot, House, London, W. C. 2 S Hastings Street, Calcutta v Railway Book-stall holder. Foreign

SIS. A. H. Wheeler & Co., IS, Elgin Road, Allahabad SIS. Education Enterprise Private Ltd., Kathumandu (Nepal) SIS. Aktie Bologat, C. E. Fritzes Kungl, Hovobokhandel, !Gahlot Bros., K. E. M. Road, Bikaner Fredsgation-2 Box: 1656, ·Stockholm.16, (Sweden) Reise-und Verkebrsverlag Stuttgart, Post 730, Gutenberg­ Higginbothams & Co., Ltd., Mount Road, Madras stra 21, Stuttgart No. 11245, Stuttgart den (Germany West) Shri Iswar Subramanyam 452, Reversite Driv Apt. 6, New York, 27 N W Y M. Gulab Singh & Sons, Private Ltd., Mathura Road, The Proprietor, Book Centre, Laksbmi Mansions, 49, The New Delhi Mall, Lahore (Pakistan) (00 S • B Basis)

The Head Clerk, Govt. Book Depot, Ahmedabad The Registrar of Companies, Mahatma Gandhi Road, West The Asstt. Director, Extension Centre, Kapileshwar Road, Cott. Bldg. P. B. 334, Kanpur Belgaum The Registrar of Companies, Everest 100, Marine Drive, Bombay The Employment Officer, Employment Exchange, Dhar The Asstt. Director, Footwear Extension Centre, Polo The Registrar of Companies, 162, Brigade Road, Bangalore Ground, No.1, Jodhpur The Registrar of Companies, Gwalior The Officer I/C., Extension Centre, Club Road, Muzaffarpur Asstt. Director, Extension Centre, Bhuli Road, Dhanbad The Director, Indian Bureau of Mines, Govt. of India, Registrar of Companies, Orissa, Cutt:&ck Candhi, Cuttack Ministry of Mines & Fuel, Nagpur The Registrar of Companies, Gujarat State, Gujarat The Asstt. Director, Industrial Extension Centre, Nadiad Samachar Building, Ahmedabad (Gujarat) Publication Division, Sales Depot, North Block, New Delhi The Head Clerk, Photozincographic Press, 5, Finance Road, The Development Commissioner, Small Scale Industries, Poona New Delhi Government Printing & Stationery, Rajkot The Officer I/C., University Employment Bureau, Lucknow The Officer I/C., Extension Centre, Industrial Estate, Officer I/C., S. 1. S. I. Extension Centre, Maida Kokar, Ranchi Officer I/C., S. I. S. I. Extension Centre, Habra, Tabaluria., The Director, S. I. S. I. Industrial Extension Centre, Udbna, 24 PargaDas Surat Officer I/C., S. I. S. I •. Model Carpentry Workshop, Piyali The Registrar of Companies, Narayani Building, 27, Nagar, P. O. Burrupur Eraboume Road, Calcutta-l Officer I/C., S. I.' S. 1. Chrontanning Extension Centre, The Registrar of Companies, Kerala, 50, Feet Road, Ernakulam Tangra 33, Nortp TOpSia Road, Calcutta-46 The Registrar of Companies, H. No. 3-5·83, Hyderguda, Officer l/C., S.I.8.1. Extension Centre, (Footwear), Calcutta Hyderabad Asstt. Director, Extension Centre, Hyderabad Registrar of Companies, Assam, Manipur and Tripura, Asstt. Director, Ext6IlSion Centre, Krishna Distt. (A.P.) Shillong Employment Officer, Employment Exchange, Jhabua Registrar of Companies, Sunlight Insurance Building, Ajmeri Dy. Director Incharge. S.I.S.I., Cia Chief Civil Admn. Goa, Gate Extension, New Delhi Panjim The Registrar of Companies, Punjab and Himachal Pradesh, The Registrar of Trade Unions, Kanpur Link Road, J ullundur City The Employment Officer, Employment Exchange, Gopal Registrar of Companies, Bihar, Jammal Road, Patna-l Bhavan, Mornia Registrar of Companies, Raj, & Ajmer; Shri Kamta Prasad The Officer I/C., State Information Centre, Hyderabad House, lst Floor, 'C' Scheme, Aahok Marg, Jaipur The Registrar of Companies, Pondicherry The Registrar of Companies, Andbra Bank Building, 6 Linghi The Asstt. Director of Publicity and Information, Vidhana Chetty Street, P. B. 1530, Madras Saubha (P. B. 271) Bangalore

vi