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Travel Introduction

with fast facts and suggestions Why Peru?

Peru is legendary among world travellers for its • History • adventure opportunities • • culture • natural resources • and breathtaking Andean scenery.

Stunning in its abundance of both natural and man-made attractions, Peru offers more in one trip than most destinations can even hope to offer in several.

A land wrapped in 10,000 years of history, Peru is the heart of the mighty Incan Empire, yet long before that time,ancient civilizations took root in this territory leaving telling archaeological traces of a fascinating past. Of the 117 life zones (biomes) recognized in the world, 84 are found in Peru. Of the earth’s 32 types of climate, Peru has 28. And as one of only 18 countries in the world to be categorized as biologically mega-diverse, Peru is naturally equipped to harbor a majority of the earth’s species. Why Peru, Continued

This is a place where you can journey along roads and trails leading throughsolid desert, over dizzying mountain peaks and then down to lush jungles in what seems like just one breath. It is an exquisite land, whose eclectic foods have attained international fame in haute cuisine; a rainbow of sights, sounds and colors that come alive in vibrant cultural dances and through ancient musical instruments in its majestic festivals and religious processions. It is home to a rich collection of people who live proudly in their heritage and welcome visitors from around the globe to share in their stories and, in the process, create some of their own. Quick Facts

• Official Name: Republic of Peru • Capital City: Lima, pop. 7 Million • People: 54% Indian, 32% Mestizo (mixed Indian descent and European), 12% Spanish and 2% Black and Asian • Languages: Spanish, Quechua and Aymara • Religion: 90% Roman Catholic, 10% other • Major Industries: Pulp, paper, coca leaves, steel, chemicals & minerals, tourism • International Dialing Code: 51 • Peru is the third-largest country in after Brazil and , ranking it among the world’s 20 largest nations. • Peru holds authority in the South Pacific Ocean up to 200 miles from the Peruvian coast and has territorial rights to a portion of the Antarctic. • Estimated Population is 28 million, of which 72% are Urban; 28% Rural. • Peru is divided into 24 departments (similar to U.S. states or Canadian provinces), which are subdivided into 150 provinces, then further divided into more than 1,300 districts. • ime Zone: GMT minus 5 hours; the same as EST in winter and CST in summer. Best Time to Go

• Because it has four distinct regions, there really isn’t a best time to travel. Travelling to Peru is most popular from May through October (the dry season in the Highland and Jungle regions), with by far the greatest number of visitors in July and August. • Note that a lot of Peruvians travel around July 28, the national holiday, so be sure to secure lodging and in-country transportation well in advance before travelling in Peru at this time. • May and September are good alternates, as the crowds are smaller at the big attractions and the weather is still spectacular. That’s why most tours operate all year-round. • However, even during the rainy season in the Amazon, the rains fall only for a few hours at a time. In the , the rainy season can sometimes just mean a bit of overcast weather. The advantage to travelling in these areas at this time is that many other travelers make the mistake of postponing their plans until the dry season, leaving you with more of Peru to yourself. • The best time to visit the or the coastal areas is from December to April. • Peru does not have extremes of climate like Canada, for instance so a date that works best for your schedule. Annual festivals throughout the year beckon travellers looking for cultural experiences and religious pilgrimages. • Note that airlines and hotels consider the period from mid-December through mid- January as peak season. Festival Calendar

• 02 FEB - Candlemas - colourful festivals held throughout the highlands, particularly in the Puno area • FEB to MAR – Carnival - especially celebrated in the highlands. It’s a great time to be anywhere is South America. The only annoyance can be that part of the celebration involves water fights. • MAR to APR - Semana Santa or Easter week • JUN - Corpus Christi, held on the 9th Thursday after Easter. Processions are especially festive in the Cuzco area. • 24 JUN - Inti Raymi - the most celebrated Inca festival in the Andes, held in Cuzco. The population in this capital of the triples. Costumes, parades and native dancing abound. There is a great pageant in Sacsayhuaman. This holiday celebrates the winter solstice • 28 JUL - Independence Day - Peruvians take this holiday seriously. The party begins with the feast of St James on July 25 and doesn’t stop for 4 days • 30 AUG - Santa Rosa de Lima - parades fill the streets of Lima • 18 OCT - El Senor de los Milagros (Lord of the Miracles) - celebrated again in Lima with parades, everyone wears purple • 02 NOV - All Soul’s Day - celebrated with lots of food and drink commemorating the passing of the country’s forefathers • 05 NOV - Puno Day - a wonderful time to be in this city bordering Lake Titicaca. Lots of dancing and flamboyant costumes mark this holiday’s festivities. The holiday is in honour of Manco Capac, the first Inca to emerge from Lake Titicaca Lima

Many international flights arrive at Lima International Airport quite late at night, so you may want to schedule an extra day to see the sights of Lima. This will also help you to get over any jetlag that you may be experiencing after travelling from Europe, New Zealand or Australia. There is a lot to do in Lima, so consider this option. Many hotels are found in the suburb of Miraflores, an upscale district of Lima. The streets are lined with cafes and shops and you can easily spend a day relaxing if you don’t feel like heading downtown. • Parque Salazar - overlooks the bay and is a good place to visit during the summer months when concerts are held • Parque Kennedy - a great place to wander through the arts and crafts markets that open from Thursday to Sunday • Lima Beaches - very popular between December and April. Even though they have been declared unsafe for swimming, the city’s beaches have become a cultural hub of activity and Limeños swarm to the area to soak up the sun Lima, Continued

• Plaza de Armas - declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO • Palacio de Gobierno - on the north side of the Plaza, it is thought to originally have been built by Pizarro, but was rebuilt in 1937. • The Cathedral - supposedly houses the remains of . It’s a very ornate church. • Plaza Bolivar - said to be where General Jose de San Martin proclaimed Peru’s independence. At the centre, you will find a statue of the mounted liberator • Palacio Torre Tagle - now the home of the Foreign Ministry, this is probably the best example of secular colonial architecture in Lima. • San Francisco - his church and monastery is famous for its remarkable library and artwork. But also for the rows upon rows of skeletons that fill the catacombs found beneath its structure • Museo de la Nación - this museum is the best place get an overview of Peruvian archaeology. You can see Chavin stone carvings, Nazca ceramics and Paracas weavings. • Museo de Oro del Peru - The Gold Museum is in the basement vault, and there are thousands of gold pieces to view. The Arms Museum is at the top and is reputed to be one of the world’s best, featuring firearms from Peru but from all over the world. • Larco Herrera Museum • cinemas, theatres, art galleries, music shows - listed in the English newspaper, the Lima Times. Cuzco (3450 meters above sea level)

A visit to Cuzco will leave you longing to return regardless of the amount of time spent there & it’s easily accessible by foot. The altitude of the Andean capital coupled with the steep incline of the city’s cobblestone streets can be exhausting. Just remember to take it easy.

• Plaza de Armas - pretty much everything happens here, and it’s a good place to start your daily excursions or just spend the afternoon people watching • The Cathedral - construction was begun in 1559 and took over 100 years to complete. It is Cuzco’s main and most ornate church • La Compañia - Cuzco’s second most important church, is often lit up at night • The walls of Cuzco - Just walk southeast, away from the Plaza de Armas and along the narrow alley of Loreto and you will see these Inca walls on both sides. It’s simply amazing to see these stones cut and ground to fit perfectly • Plaza de San Blas - the best area in the city centre to buy local handicrafts • Sacsayhuaman, , Puca Pucara and Tambo Machay - all archeological sites found around Cuzco, they can be visited on day excursions • Pisac - about 32 km from Cuzco, Pisac is noted for its Sunday market where traditionally dressed locals from miles around gather to sell their wares. Tuesday and Thursday are also market days, but the market is much smaller. Visas and Currency

Tourist Visas This is not required for citizens of most countries in the and Western Europe. Citizens of , and do not need to have a passport or visa to visit certain regions in Peru. In these cases they are authorized to stay up to 90 days (extendable by Immigration authorities). Inquire with the Peruvian consular representation in your country if you need further information. Currency and denominations • The official currency is the Sol(es) and is divided into 100 centimos. The US dollar is the best foreign currency to carry. Both travellers’ cheques and credit cards (Visa is best) can easily be used, and if you shop around, you’ll find that the commission charged varies widely. Some casas de cambio charge no commission to withdraw local currency on your credit card and a small fee to exchange traveller’s cheques while others have the opposite policy. Never accept currency that is torn or appears old, as it can be difficult if not impossible to exchange later. Whenever possible, try and keep smaller denominations. You will find this most helpful when bartering in markets as many locals will claim, “no change” when you try and purchase something with a larger bill. • Note that excess Soles can be changed into Bolivianos at the Bolivian border at a good rate. • Be cautious of the price quoted. One traveller recounted a story of his taxi fare, which was agreed to be 20. The traveller thought Soles while the taxi driver claimed US dollars when it came to the end of the ride. To avoid arguments, be sure you’re clear as to what is expected before you use the service. General Info

Electric power 220 volts. Most four and five-star hotels provide 110-volt electric current Vaccinations If you plan on traveling to the Jungle, the getting a yellow fever vaccine 10 days in advance is recommended. Upon entering Peru Present to the Immigration officer the International Embarkation / Disembarkation Card (given to the traveler in the airplane or at the Immigration Stand in the border area you are coming through). Keep the card, since you will have to turn it in when you leave the country. If you lose it you will have to pay a fine equivalent to US$ 4,00. Customs officers will give you a form for you to declare any goods subject to customs duties you may be bringing in. If none, specify that you have nothing to declare. The following are exempt from duty: items and clothes for personal use, portable computers and adventure tourism gear Banks Banking hours in Peru are normally from Monday to Friday, from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. In addition, most banks open for the public half day on Saturdays. In the streets of the main cities there are teller machines installed by the different banks. Money Exchange, Security, Shopping

Money exchange • It is recommended that money should be exchanged in hotels, banks and authorized money exchange offices (Service hours: 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., approximately). The exchange rate against the US Dollar is variable. Inquire before changing your money. For exchanging other currencies inquiry at money exchange offices. Security • Take normal precautions against pickpockets • Carry a copy of identification documents. Keep originals and your valuables in the safety deposit box of your hotel and make sure to list down what you deposit and verify the responsibility assumed by the establishment. • Carry valuables discreetly. Do not carry large amounts of cash. Keep an eye on your bags and luggage. • Do not carry suitcases, bags or sac packs on your back. • Do not exchange money out in the street. • Do not walk around late at night through areas with poor lighting or without a companion Shopping In general, shops, shopping centers and handicraft markets are open everyday (even on holidays) between 9 a.m. and 8 p.m. In markets and in places such as those where there are beach vendors and street vendors, it is acceptable to bargain Telephone & Health Matters

Telephone • International and long distance national calls can be made from public pay phones. Country and city codes are normally shown in the telephone booths. • To make an international call, dial: 00 + country code + city code + telephone number. • To call from one city to the next, dial: 0 + city code + telephone number. • Public phones take coins as well as cards, which are sold in stands and supermarkets. Make sure you are buying the card corresponding to the telephone company of the phone you want to use. No collect calls can be made from pay phones. • To obtain telephone information, dial 103 (service is in Spanish) Health matters • Only drink bottled or previously boiled water. • Be careful with raw vegetables and fruits. • Avoid eating from street vendors. • Rest on the first day of your arrival to the Highlands, and consume light meals to prevent altitude illness (soroche). Drinking "coca tea" is recommended. • If you travel to the Highlands or to the Jungle, make sure to carry insect repellent and a raincoat. • To obtain medical services, contact the staff of your hotel or travel agent. • If you wish to take travelers' insurance, contact your favorite travel agency. Food and Tipping

Food and beverage Peruvian cuisine offers a great variety of dishes typical of the Coast, the Highlands and the Jungle. Some dishes are usually served intensely seasoned. Asking restaurant staff about the seasoning of a particular dish before ordering is wise. As far as drinks are concerned, try the very Peruvian Pisco, as well as "chicha morada" "chicha de jora" and agüaje juice, made from a tropical Jungle fruit. • Visit www.perumuchogusto.com for culinary details and restaurant suggestions Tipping * Restaurants & bars : a 10% tip is customary wherever a service charge is not included in the bill. For exceptional service an additional 5% may be added. * Hotels : $1 per day for the cleaning staff, $0.50 - $1 per bag for porters. * Taxi Drivers : generally do not expect a tip unless they carry your bags for you, wherein $1 per person should be sufficient. * Private Drivers : can get $5-$10 per person per day – depending upon service, the length of the journey and the number of passengers. A long journey with only one or two passengers would warrant the higher tip. * Tourist Shuttle Bus Drivers (collective, not private) : might get $2 per person. * Tour Guides : $5-10 per person per day, depending upon length of tour, type of guiding, etc. * Driver/Guides : (Guides who also do the driving) $5-$10 per person per day. * Foreign Guides/Specialist guides : might earn a larger tip than the average guide These are just guidelines. Tipping is not required by any means, especially in the case of mediocre or poor service, Our general advice to travelers is to tip what you feel is appropriate. Best Food and Drinks To Try

Best Eats/Must Tries • Cuy - aka guinea pig, a delicacy in the highlands • Lomo Saltado - a kind of stir-fried beef dish with onions, vinegar, ginger, chili, tomatoes and fried potatoes, served with rice (found on every menu) • Papas Rellenas - stuffed baked potatoes • Ceviche - a must try along the coastal areas. Can be made with either shrimp or sea bass. One of the most typical dishes of Peru • Palta Rellena - stuffed with chicken salad. Makes for an excellent appetizer • Choclo con queso - corn on the cob with cheese • Caucau - a stew made with tripe, potatoes, peppers and parsley • Rocoto Relleno - a spicy bell pepper stuffed with beef and vegetables • Cocada al horno - made with coconut, egg yolk, sesame seeds, wine and butter • Picarones - cassava flour fritters made with eggs, deep fried and served in honey • Tejas - a sugar candy wrapped in waxed paper, pecan flavour is the best Drinks • Inca Cola - Its a lime green soda pop that tastes life fizzy bubble gum or cream soda • Pisco Sour - made with white grape brandy • Mate de coca - a tea made from coca leaves, good to drink if you feel the signs of altitude sickness setting in • Cuzqueña and Arequipeña - good local beers • Guinda - a sweet cherry brandy Taxis and Useful Contact Info

Taxis It is recommended that taxis should be from taxi companies (which are requested by phone) or those authorized by the municipalities (in Lima they are painted yellow and some of them have a lighted sign over the roof). Taxi meters are not used in Peru, therefore the price must be negotiated before going into the taxi. Ask where you are staying about the average fares to your destination. No tips are normally given to taxi drivers. At airports, it is advisable to hire the services of taxis authorized by the management authority.

Useful Contact Information: • Peru 24-hour Tourist Information in Peru: In Peru: 511-574-8000 • Tourist Police: In Lima: 511-460-4525 (South) • In Lima: 511-428-5887 (North) • Tourist Police Jorge Chávez Airport: In Lima: 511-575-5290 • Peruvian Embassy in Washington D.C. In USA: 202-833-9860 • Peruvian Embassy in Ottawa, Canada In Canada: 613-238-1777 Protected Wildlife, Flora & Heritage

Protected wildlife and wild flora species • Peruvian laws prohibit and sanction the extraction, transport, sale and export of all types of wildlife and wild flora, dead or alive, without the authorization of INRENA (1). • The prohibition extends to any object made with their parts (crowns or necklaces made of Macaw (guacamayo) feathers, butterfly wings, musical instruments, "tigrillo" skin or "palos de lluvia" (also called oncelote, a small feline resembling a tiger).

Archaeological and Historical Heritage • Peruvian laws prohibit the sale & export of original pieces of the national cultural heritage. Abstain from buying them. • However, if you are interested in taking to your country samples of Peruvian pre-Hispanic or Colonial art, you may buy modern replicas. • When buying replicas of pre-Hispanic or Colonial works, make sure they have been certified by the INC (2); this certificate can be obtained at any of the offices of this institution, located in all departmental capitals. If you are leaving Peru through the Jorge Chávez Airport, visit the INC booth after you pass through Immigration post. The authorization can be granted automatically. History

• Peru is one of the major original cradles of ancient cultures, together with Mexico, Mesopotamia, India and China . Its world- renowned archaeological sites and unspoiled treasures provide a sweeping pallet of travel experiences to offer your clients. Here’s a broad overview of Peru’s history and highlights of the cultural treasures. Pre-Incan Cultures: (1200 B.C. - 1400 A.D.) • In this far-reaching period, small states were formed with elites wielding both economic and religious power. Important archaeological and cultural remains from this ancient time make Peru one of the world’s most fascinating historical experiences. The Nasca culture flourished from the first to eighth centuries A.D. beside the dry southern coast of Peru, leaving the mysterious Nasca lines traced in the desert as well as admirable pottery and fine weavings. • The Wari culture prospered in the Andean region from 500 -900 A.D. Its main vestiges are citadels in the city of Ayacucho, and La Libertad which have been partially uncovered revealing an advanced and highly evolved society. History, continued

• The amazing adobe remains of Chan Chan, the imperial capital of the Chimu culture, are a must-see. Constructed around 850 A.D., Chan Chan became a highly sophisticated social and political centre, flourishing to the 15th century when the Chimu encountered the Inca. It is amazing to note that an estimated 30,000 people lived in the city of Chan Chan at the height of its existence. Archaeological digs in the city have uncovered many artefacts from the Chimu and their predecessors, the Moche. • The Moche civilization flourished in northern Peru from about 100 A.D. to 800 A.D. While still the subject of some debate, many scholars contend that the Moche were not politically organized as a monolithic empire or state but rather as a group of autonomous communities that shared a common elite culture as seen in the rich architecture that survives today. The Moche are particularly noted for their elaborate painted ceramics, gold work, monumental constructions (huacas) and irrigation systems. History, Continued

The Inca: (1400 A.D. - 1532 A.D.) • The Incas will be a familiar name.They are remembered for their genius in creating terraced farming, irrigation systems, and a social and political society that is still a marvel today. The magnificent Incan remains found in the that surrounds Cusco is a testament to the region’s immense ceremonial importance and are among the most prized pilgrimages for travellers ‘round the world. The empire’s greatest estates, temples and royal palaces are here, between the sacred centres of Cusco and , which are positioned like great bookends at the south and north ends of the Valley. Using conquest and assimilation to expand their empire, the confederation was administered from Cusco. The Inca domesticated local plants, warehoused grain, harness labor teams to accomplish astounding public works, built a trail and road system that runs the spine of the Andes and achieved advanced artistic accomplishment. • Machu Picchu is the most celebrated archaeological remains in South America and a place that has retained its mysterious allure and spectacular beauty despite its enduring popularity. The Incas ruled in Peru until the Spanish conquest in 1532. History, Continued

Spanish Conquest & Colonial Peru: (1532 A.D. – 1821 A.D.) • Look for the artistic magnificence throughout Peru that stems from the Spanish and Colonial influences that spread between 1532 and 1821. This period is showcased today through the paintings of the Cusco School, and buildings, such as the Saint Dominic Convent in Cusco (built on top of the Koricancha Inca temple), the Saint Catherine Convent in Arequipa, and in architecture in cities, manor houses and churches all over Peru.

Peru Today • On July 28, 1821, Independence from the Spanish was proclaimed. From then on, Peru has undergone several political and historical processes and is now a

• developing country, rich in human and natural resources . Peru Map Geography

Peru is divided into three regions. Although this simple division is a fair portrait of Peru's geography, the reality is much richer and far more complex: in Peru, nature appears to have taken on particular characteristics which have turned its mountains, plains, jungles and valleys into unique habitats. An extraordinary variety of eco-systems shelters a wide diversity of animals and plants. • Peru spreads its wings with nearly 1,800 species of birds… that’s the 2nd most in the world. • There are nearly 800 types of orchids that grow exclusively in Peru. • Fish and butterfly admirers will find the world’s largest number of different species in each of these categories. • Eco-tourists can experience 84 of the planet’s 117 existing biomes, on a trip to Peru… and 28 of the 32 different types of global weather too. • Nature has been so generous to Peru that its people have made it a priority to preserve its natural treasures so they can be shared. That’s why about fifteen percent of the national territory is protected by the Government. The Coast

• The Peruvian coastline is formed by a long snaking desert hemmed in between the sea and the mountains. • The Andes to the east and the cold Humboldt sea current that runs along the coast are what make this area so arid. • From the Sechura desert to the Nazca plains and the Atacama desert, the dry coastal terrain is occasionally split by valleys covered by a thick layer of cloud and drizzle in the winter. • Humidity in these areas produces a sensation of cold, although temperatures rarely dip below 12°C. • During the summer, the sun beats down and temperatures often top 30°C. • The central and southern sections of the coast feature two well-defined seasons: winter from April to October, and summer from November to March. • The north coast, meanwhile, is not touched by the effects of the cold current, which means it enjoys 300 days of sunshine a year and warm temperatures all year-long (as much as 35°C in the summer). The rain season runs from November to March The Highlands

• The Highlands is a mountainous area dominated by the Andes, where Mount Huascaran soars to 6,768 meters. • In the Peruvian highlands, there are two well-defined seasons: • the dry season (from April to October), marked by sunny days,cold nights and the lack of rain (the ideal time for visiting); • and the rainy season (November to March), when there are frequent rain showers (generally more than 1000 mm). • A characteristic of the mountain region is the drop in temperature during the day: temperatures commonly range around 24°C at midday before plunging to -3°C at night. • The steep slopes of the Andes means temperatures gradually drop in the highest region, known as the puna, the highland plain. The dry and pleasant climate in the highlands makes it possible to grow a wide variety of crops there. The Jungle

• The Jungle is a vast region of tropical vegetation in the Amazon River Basin, home to Peru's largest natural Reserves

• The vast Peruvian jungle, which surrounds the wide and winding Amazon river, is divided into two differentiated areas: the cloud forest (above 700 masl), which features a subtropical, balmy climate, with heavy rain showers (around 3000 mm a year) between November and March, and sunny days from April to October; and the lowland jungle (below 700 masl), where the dry season runs from April to October and is ideal for tourism, with sunshine and high temperatures often topping 35°C. During this season, the river levels dip and roads are easy to drive. The rainy season, meanwhile, which runs from November to March, features frequent rain showers (at least once a day) which can damage roads in the area. The jungle features high humidity all year long. In the southern jungle, there are sometimes cold spells known locally as friajes or surazos, cold fronts which drift up from the far south of the continent between May and August, where temperatures can drop to 8-12°C. Recommended Reading

• Inca-Kola - A traveller’s Tale of Peru - by Matthew Parris - a humorous account of a backpacker’s travels through the Andean highlands • Conquest of the Incas - by John Hemming - one of the best books about the history of the Inca Empire • The Bridge of San Luis Rey - by Thornton Wilder. Tells the story of a bridge that collapses into the Rio Apurimac in Peru and weaves a story of characters and traditions based on Andean life • Aunt Julia and the Scriptwriter - also by Mario Vargas Llosa - paints a great picture of life in Miraflores, old Lima and other neighbourhoods in the 1960s and 70s • Touching the Void - by Joe Simpson, this is a true classic, mountaineering survival story. Simpson crashes and burns on a mountain in Northern Peru and somehow manages to crawl out of the hands of death • Cut Stones and Crossroads - by Ronald Wright - focuses on everyday life in Peru and features many places found on itineraries such as , Tumbes and the Inca Trail • Death in the Andes - by Mario Vargas Llosa - tells the story of life in Peru during the time of the terrorists • The of the Incas - by Hiram Bingham - the story of the discovery of Machu Picchu • Peru Under the Incas - by C. A. Borland - tells of life in one of history’s most highly organized societies • Shining and Other Paths: War and Society in Peru, 1980-1995 - by Steve J. Stern