An Assessment of the Tourism Industry in Huanchaco, Peru: Current Impacts and Future Potential for Tourism Development1

Tracy McNulty2

Abstract:

In the summer of 2004 I spent five weeks participating in an ethnographic field school in Huanchaco, Peru, a fishing village on the northern coast. Because of my interests in applied anthropology and the anthropology of tourism, I chose to study the impacts of tourism on the people of this small village. Knowing that I had only a short time to conduct my research, I opted to focus on the perceptions of local business owners. This strategy enabled me to gain insight into what business owners think about tourism as well as the obstacles facing further development of Huanchaco as a tourist destination. Through informal, semi-structured, and focus-group interviews, I gathered a variety of opinions and suggestions as to how tourism development might help ameliorate the environmental problems facing Huanchaco, as well as how tourism might help offset the decreased income from declining fishing yields.

Introduction negative impacts of touristic development in Huanchaco. I also wanted to find out what are the Before applying to Utah State University’s (USU) obstacles facing Huanchaco as it develops into a ethnographic field school, I knew very little about tourist destination. Huanchaco, Peru. I read the information on the USU field school website, which says, “As Huanchaco This project’s significance is that it provides an remakes itself as a regional tourism capital, this once analysis of the local tourism industry. As increasing sleepy fishing village is undergoing rapid change.” I numbers of tourists visit Huanchaco, the local also looked at a Lonely Planet guidebook, which population needs a clear understanding of tourism’s devotes two pages to the town. The authors portray impact on their community. This paper also gives Huanchaco as a pleasant, if somewhat boring, suggestions as to how Huanchaco might market itself destination: “Apart from walking on the beach and more successfully and how tourism might succeed in waiting for the caballitos to go into action, there’s not halting the current levels of environmental degradation much to do in Huanchaco, and that’s one of its in the area. attractions. It’s a quiet, easygoing place” (Rachowiecki and Beech 2004: 276). My project also had an applied component. In my meetings with local business leaders, I encouraged Based on these characterizations, I assumed that them to share what they perceived to be wrong with Huanchaco was probably a spot where travelers on the Huanchaco as well as how they might improve South American circuit stop for a few days to unwind Huanchaco so as to appeal to tourists and to bring and escape the noise and pollution of larger Peruvian greater economic gain. I think that by bringing up some cities like Lima and Trujillo. Because of my interests in of these issues, I helped to motivate business owners business and anthropology, and particularly applied to be proactive. Rather than simply talking about the anthropology, I thought that this would be a great various problems and challenges facing their opportunity to study tourism and the ways it can community, these individuals also proposed solutions. impact a community. At that point, I had no idea that I hope that in the next months and years they will Huanchaco has much more to offer than a white-sand continue to work on improving the environment and beach, excellent surfing, and cheap, abundant seafood. economy of Huanchaco, not only for tourists but also for members of the community. Soon after arriving in Huanchaco, I had several casual conversations with local business owners. Background Through these informal chats, I learned that the increase in tourism over the past 10 to 15 years has led Tourism is vital to the Peruvian economy. This to drastic changes for the residents of Huanchaco. For industry is Peru’s second-largest source of foreign my research project, I decided to explore what local income and an important source of employment, business owners perceive to be the positive and employing 100,000 people directly and another 400,000

44 High Plains Applied Anthropologist No. 1, Vol. 25, Spring, 2005 indirectly. Peru’s tourism industry is rapidly One informant showed me several Chimu and Moche expanding: more than 500,000 foreigners visited Peru in cemeteries just off the coastal road leading to Chicama. 1995, whereas in 2000, one million foreign visitors had If the INC (Instituto Nacional de Cultural) had more arrived before the end of September (Ugarte and funding to devote to these sites, they could become Pacheco 2001: 2). another major attraction for the area. The area around Huanchaco also has a great degree of biodiversity, Experts consider ecotourism, or tourism with an particularly marine life and migratory birds. Finally, ecological focus, to be the largest growth sector over Huanchaco has the cultural patrimony of the traditional the past decade. Ecotourism can include adventure fishing lifestyle and the caballitos de totora, the reed activities like hiking, mountain climbing, and fishing boats that have been used for centuries. If whitewater rafting, as well as scientific pursuits like marketed properly, these resources could attract birdwatching and ethnobotany. In reality, the majority greater numbers of domestic and international tourists. of tourists to Peru participate in ecotourism as well as cultural tourism, which includes touring archaeological Methods ruins and exploring native folklore (Ugarte and Pacheco 2001: 2). The most obvious example of ecotourism in I gathered most of my data through ethnographic Peru is the classic four-day hike along the Inca Trail to interviews with local business owners. I interviewed Machu Picchu, during which tourists hike high-altitude the owners of three restaurants, two internet cafés, one mountain paths while exploring various Inca sites along hotel, and one surfing school. I also organized a focus the way. group with the owners of two other restaurants as well as one individual who owns a hotel and a restaurant. Historically, the majority of foreign tourists in Peru Although I had intended to interview a few more hotel have concentrated on southern Peru, especially Cuzco owners, I eventually decided to focus my time and and Machu Picchu, and neglected the rest of the energy on the informants with whom I had already country. Thus far, tourism opportunities in northern established rapport. In hindsight, I believe that Peru have remained underdeveloped. According to a strategy enabled me to delve deeper into my topic, report written by two tourism and sustainable therefore gaining a better understanding of tourism in development consultants, Peru needs a second major Huanchaco from the perspective of a few key tourism destination to balance Machu Picchu, extend informants, rather than simply getting a variety of length of stay, and (most importantly) bring economic divergent but superficial opinions. development to the north. These authors believe that while tourism is not a cure-all, it could contribute to the My research methods also included some diversification of local livelihoods in northern Peru. In participant observation. Because I was investigating order to attract increasing numbers of tourists, tourism while actually living as a tourist myself, I was communities in northern Peru should promote the in an excellent position for engaging in participant archaeology, biodiversity, and living culture of the observation. I was a frequent customer in internet region (Goodwin and Nizette 2001). cafés, an occasional customer in various restaurants, and even took four surfing lessons through a local These experts proposed the development of a surfing school. In addition, I participated in guided northern tourism circuit that would include Cajamarca, tours of two archaeological sites: Huaca de la Luna and Chachapoyas, Chiclayo, and Trujillo. Interestingly, Chan Chan. Through these experiences, I was able to Huanchaco does not appear on the map of this circuit, participate in the tourism industry as a consumer while although the archaeological sit es of Chan Chan and the analyzing it as a researcher. In addition, by living as a Huacas del Sol y de la Luna are listed as Trujillo tourist in Huanchaco for five weeks, I made valuable attractions (Goodwin and Nizette 2001). The omission contacts with local business owners and gained some of Huanchaco in an assessment of potential tourist insight into the local tourism industry. destinations is telling. It reflects the lack of awareness of what the Huanchaco area has to offer. Discussion

In fact, Huanchaco has great potential to become a Through my conversations with different business destination for archaeological, ecological and cultural owners, I identified several common themes. Each tourism. Huanchaco provides easy access to Chan informant thought that Huanchaco needs to attract Chan, the Huacas del Sol y de la Luna, and numerous more tourists, because despite the fact that tourism other Chimu and Moche sites located along the coast. development has had some negative consequences,

High Plains Applied Anthropologist No. 1, Vol. 25, Spring, 2005 45 those effects are outweighed by the economic gains offset in part by new costs, such as a rise in the prices that tourism brings. The other major point that emerged of food, rents, and community services. Popular was that not enough is being done to protect the tourism areas tend to contribute to inflated prices for environment. My informants recognize that continued land or to environmental degradation, which can lead environmental deterioration would be devastating to to further costs (Chambers 2000: 34). Huanchaco’s tourism industry. They realize that they must act quickly to protect and maintain the beaches, Environmental degradation in and around ocean, and especially the totorales, or reed beds, in Huanchaco and around Huanchaco. Environmental degradation is probably the most The economic effects of tourism serious issue for the economic future of the Huanchaco area. This degradation is partly associated with the Based on my research, it is clear that Huanchaco has development of tourism. On a trip up the coast, my benefited economically from tourism. One restaurant principal informant took me to a beach called Playa de owner explained that tourism has provided employment Silencio. Although this beach is located within a opportunities and contributed to the economic well protected zone, trash is scattered throughout the area. being of Huanchaco. These benefits are well During the summer, many people come out to this documented in tourism literature; as Chambers beach, and vendors bring food and beverages to sell. observes, “Tourism can be a lucrative business, and Because Playa de Silencio is part of the reserve, the many regions of the world have used tourism to local government should not be issuing permits to improve their economies and to compensate for these vendors, but somehow, they do. This beach does declines in other revenue sources” (2000: 39). not have bathroom facilities or trash service, so it quickly becomes littered with waste. Indeed, as the fishing industry in Huanchaco has declined due to overfishing and changing weather For better and for worse, tourism and environmental patterns, many local residents have entered into the degradation go hand in hand. As mentioned above, tourism industry to supplement their incomes. tourism can contribute to environmental degradation, Furthermore, as the population of Huanchaco has but the resulting degradation can also hurt the increased from a few thousand to roughly 50,000, potential for tourism. Visitors to Huanchaco’s beaches tourism has been vital to the economic survival of want to walk on clean sand and swim in clean water. many residents, whether they work in hotels or However, two informants said that other restaurants restaurants, sell jewelry and chewing gum on the often dump their trash on the beach or on the streets of beach, or drive tourists around in taxis. Huanchaco. Although I never saw anyone dumping the contents of a trash can on the beach, I certainly saw a However, tourism has also had some negative great deal of trash ranging from plastic bottles to candy consequences for Huanchaco. Several informants wrappers on the beach, on the sidewalk, and in the mentioned that tourism has resulted in an increase in streets. One informant said that people have grown criminal activities, from petty thievery to drug use and accustomed to seeing others’ litter; they need to create drug dealing. Another common complaint is that the a consciousness that will discourage this behavior. cost of living has risen dramatically. One informant explained, “We are paying the consequences of Several informants mentioned their concern about tourism, because the prices of everything have risen.” the present state of the environment around Everything from a plate of ceviche to food in the market Huanchaco. They believe that stopping the is much more expensive than in Trujillo, and it should environmental deterioration of the area should be of not be. According to him, Huanchaco is the most highest priority. My principal informant, Pedro3 expensive city, in terms of cost of living, in northern believes that in two or three years the damage will be Peru. This is a common side effect of touristic irreparable. “If there are no more totoras, then there will development: be no fishermen, no caballitos, and no Huanchaco,” he warned. Already, the number of fishermen is dwindling. Tourism development can also lead to additional “When I arrived in Huanchaco many years ago, there economic costs. For example, while a local community were more than 100 caballitos. Now you find less than might profit from tourism as a direct result of 70, and one day, you won’t find a single one. When increased opportunities for wage employment or there are no more caballitos, we are going to lose a entrepreneurial activities, these benefits might be millennial tradition.”

46 High Plains Applied Anthropologist No. 1, Vol. 25, Spring, 2005 Tourism as an inconsistent source of income from driving along the beachfront. Another idea is to invite the departments of biology and fisheries from the The tourism industry is subject to seasonal Universidad Nacional de Trujillo to install tanks in the fluctuations and other variables, including political and water in Huanchaco, monitor water contamination, and economic stability (or lack thereof). Thus, financial reintroduce marine species to the area. dependence on tourism makes for a precarious existence for many local business owners. For example, In the long term, this group hopes to form a non- my informants agreed that it is difficult to make a living governmental organization (NGO) that will manage the during the low season from mid-April through mid- zona reservada and the area around Huanchaco. “This June. In mid-June, foreign tourists begin to arrive, and project needs to be managed by someone impartial, business is decent through July and August. someone without personal and financial interests in September, October and November are somewhat slow, Huanchaco,” Pedro said. He believes that an NGO with and then from December through March, Huanchaco is foreign management would have a certain level of full of tourists. However, operating at full capacity for economic power and would be less likely to mismanage just a fraction of the year creates economic hardships funds than a local organization. “This is the only for local business owners. If they could market intelligent solution, because an NGO could work Huanchaco to domestic and international tourists as a independently with the municipality, independently year-round destination, perhaps the low season would with the chamber of tourism, with each one of us, and not be quite so dismal. with the fishermen.”

The general economic slump in Peru also presents a Further development of the tourism infrastructure challenge for local business owners. Lucia, a restaurant will have significant impact on Huanchaco’s future, but owner, told me that Huanchaco's economic profile is whether that impact is positive or negative remains to decreasing every year, so the economic level of the be seen. Pedro believes that tourism has the potential local population is also in decline. “We need to do a to improve the environment in and around Huanchaco. better job of selling Huanchaco to tourists, and My informants agreed that the economic future of especially to bring more tourists here on a year-round Huanchaco depends on tourism, but the question is, basis,” she said. what is the best way to increase tourism without further damaging the fragile ecosystem? Current and future efforts to mitigate these challenges Conclusions and Recommendations

Some business owners are trying to address the Because of the limited time I spent in Huanchaco, I issue of seasonality by coming up with new ways to am probably not aware of all the steps that local attract tourists. For example, Elena, a restaurant owner, business owners have taken or are taking to solve and Carmen, a hotel owner, are trying to develop a some of the problems mentioned above. However, I three-day package tour that would include visits to have a few recommendations, mostly stemming from Chan Chan and the totorales as well as rides in suggestions made by my informants. caballito de totora boats. They hope to sell this package to travel agencies in Trujillo. The local I believe that the association of business owners fishermen would earn money for taking the tourists out could be instrumental in making some significant yet in their boats and for acting as guides to the reed beds. simple improvements in Huanchaco. First, they could Thus, Elena explained, “Our businesses would benefit, start a beautification campaign, in which they would try but the fishermen would also benefit. I understand that to raise some consciousness among local residents I would not have a restaurant here if it weren’t for the about the benefits of keeping the streets and beaches fishermen. They need to reap some of the financial of Huanchaco clean. A little effort on the part of rewards of tourism in Huanchaco.” everyone could make a huge difference in how Huanchaco is seen by visitors. In addition, if they Another group of business owners is trying to could create a sense of civic pride, social pressure prevent the destruction of the environment. They want would discourage people from littering and dumping to write letters to business owners who are illegally trash on the beach. dumping their trash, and fine those who continue to do so. They want to stop heavy traffic, including A more expensive but still doable project would be microbuses, dump trucks, and industrial machinery to staff the control booths at both ends of Huanchaco

High Plains Applied Anthropologist No. 1, Vol. 25, Spring, 2005 47 on a regular basis. Technically, large trucks and totora races, and sand-sculpture contests on the microbuses are prohibited from driving through beach. In addition, religious festivals like Semana Santa Huanchaco, but this is never enforced. If local in April, Fiesta de las Cruces in May, and Señor de business owners could enlist support and financing Huamán and San Pedro in June could bring more from the municipality, they could prevent these domestic visitors to Huanchaco during the slow vehicles from entering Huanchaco. Trucks and heavy season. vehicles would have to use the alternate route, reducing the noise and pollution along Avenida Victor If future anthropology students choose to focus on Larco and protecting the fragile totorales just north of tourism in Huanchaco, I would recommend that they Huanchaco. make contacts with the more formal business associations as early as possible. Although I was Unfortunately, I did not have much interaction with casually invited to a meeting, that meeting did not take the local business associations. Lucia explained that place in the time I was in Huanchaco. A better the local association has 60 members, out of roughly 70 understanding of this local organization, its goals, and local business owners, but that this organization rarely its structure, is crucial to getting the whole picture of meets. She said that there is much disaccord among tourism in Huanchaco. business owners, and it is difficult to accomplish anything. One of their projects was the placement of Ultimately, I think that a grassroots approach to the booth at the entrance to the pier. They had solving the issues facing Huanchaco could be very intended for this booth to be the equivalent of a local effective. Each business owner with whom I met had tourist information office. However, it is never used fantastic and creative ideas for increasing tourism to because members of the association could not agree as Huanchaco and how to prevent further environmental to what information should be provided. Each person deterioration. They also recognize that they need to was just looking out for his or her own interests. work together and work quickly. The members of my Instead, as one informant suggested, “We need to sell focus group talked about developing a two-year plan, Huanchaco not just as individual business owners listing all the steps in order of urgency, from stopping promoting our own restaurants or hotels but as a heavy traffic through Huanchaco to starting an NGO to destination.” If the members of the association could protect the zona reservada. agree on how to distribute information impartially, this booth could be a great resource for tourists. I sincerely hope that they will put this plan together with input from a variety of individuals – business Another potential resource for tourists is the owners, fishermen, local residents, and perhaps even internet. One informant mentioned that Huanchaco tourists. As Pedro said, “We do not have time to needs a comprehensive website with information about waste. If we don’t act now, Huanchaco will be ruined in local sites, hotels, restaurants and other services. One a few years, and we will have lost a millennial website, www.huanchaco.net, provides a few tradition.” The threat of losing this part of Peru’s recommendations as well as some information about cultural patrimony should serve as a wake-up call not local history. However, only a few businesses are only to local business owners but to everyone who listed, and much of the information is unclear, probably values the history and culture of Huanchaco. due to problems with translation. Perhaps this website could be upgraded, or a new one could be set up by an Notes impartial party so that more businesses could be listed. A website could be an effective way to market 1. A version of this paper was published on the Utah Huanchaco as a destination for ecological, State University’s ethnographic field school website in archaeological, and cultural tourism. the summer of 2004. It is available at www.usu.edu/ anthro/peru/2004/tracy.html. Lucia suggested that Huanchaco could host more activities that would appeal to domestic tourists. She 2. Tracy McNulty is an MA candidate. She can be said that the local tourism organizations should try to reached at [email protected]. work with big companies like Backus & Johnston, the largest brewing company in Peru, to organize more 3. All names have been changed to protect informants’ special events like surfing competitions, caballito de identities.

48 High Plains Applied Anthropologist No. 1, Vol. 25, Spring, 2005 References Cited Rachowiecki and Beech 2004 Peru. Footscray, Victoria: Lonely Planet Chambers, Erve Publications. 2000 Native Tours: The Anthropology of Travel and Tourism. Long Grove, IL: Waveland Ugarte, Joaquín, and Lizzie Pacheco Press. 2001 Peru Country Case Study. UNEP-BPSP Thematic Studies of Integration of Goodwin, Harold, and Peter Nizette Biodiversity into National Fishery Sectors. 2001 An Assessment of the Economic Arequipa: AEDES (Asociación Development Potential for a Northern Especializada Para el Desarrollo Sostenible). Tourism Circuit. www.haroldgoodwin.info /resources/Peru%20Scoping.ppt.

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