THE GLOBAL GRILL

ebastian Cortez remembers the first time he attended a barbecue in Canada. Welcome your guests and He stood outside grilling meat, while his friends were all inside watching TV and tantalize the neighbours drinking beer. He was puzzled and, well, a little bit disappointed. You see, back the art of the home in Chile and, indeed, across South America, they do things differently. with the savoury flavours SThey’ve perfected the art of asado, a celebration of flame and smoke and meat, of good wine and better conversation. And here at FLAVOURS, we think the asado is the perfect of a South American-style way to entertain this summer. “Asado, it’s basically a barbecue, but it’s also a whole social thing,” says Cortez, one barbecue of Vancouver’s top butchers and owner of Sebastian & Co. Fine Meats in Dundarave. “It’s an excuse to get together and drink and have some food. But the cool thing is everyone works on the food. Cooking together is our way of socializing.” Story by Joanne Sasvari If you travel just about anywhere in South America, you’ll find countless restaurants Photography by Joann Pai that serve asado (also known as “churrasco” in Brazil, where it involves meat on metal ASADO skewers). Asado is often on the menu for business lunches, too, especially if you’re outside

2626 FLAVOURSFLAVOURS SummerSummer 20152015 FlavoursWorld.ca FlavoursWorld.ca SummerSummer 20152015 FLAVOURSFLAVOURS 2727 “My grandfather always said the barbecue is ready when the coals are white. It almost looks like the fire is dying.” That’s because asado is cooked for long times over low heat. This breaks down the connective tissues in the meat, turning tough cuts into succulently tender ones. – Sebastian Cortez

the main urban centres. And, during events like Chile’s independence celebrations in September, whole parks are given over to giant asado parties called “fondas” or “ramadas,” where guests can indulge in all the grilled meat, red wine, live music and dancing they can stand. But we think the best way to enjoy asado is with your friends around the fire at home. An asado typically begins in the early to mid-afternoon, and can easily last until 10 o’clock at night. “You go over to someone’s house, say 3 o’clock, 4 o’clock,” Cortez says. “Nothing is ready. The girls are inside talking and making salad. And the men would be outside, building the fire and making the meat.” He always welcomes his guests with an aperitif such as a Pisco Sour (see p. 53) and then he puts them to work. “Even when I do barbecues at home, I don’t have anything ready,” he says. “I get people to work on stuff and they love it.” They start by building the fire – always charcoal, always hardwood, never gas or briquettes. He has just recently built a Chilean style “quincho,” an elaborate wood-burning outdoor kitchen setup, but the classic Weber kettle works just fine. So does a large firepit, which is what many South Americans use, especially in the countryside. While you’re waiting for the coals – which can take a while – everyone might pause for a glass of wine and some empanadas, savoury pastries stuffed with meat or cheese, which are almost always store bought. “Nobody makes empanadas in Chile,” Cortez insists. “You buy them at the bakery.” Once the coals are ready, the meat goes on the grill. “My grandfather always said the barbecue is ready when the coals are white,” Cortez says. “It almost looks like the fire is dying.” That’s because asado is cooked for long times over low heat. This breaks down the connective tissues in the meat, turning tough cuts into succulently tender ones. As for the meat, it can include sausages, sweetbreads, chicken, pork, lamb and beef, usually the tougher, more flavourful and less expensive cuts. “Always beef,” Cortez says. “Always, always beef. Not necessarily sirloin, but you get a lot of skirt steak, hanger steak, sirloin cap. If you do rib eye, you don’t do a steak, you do the whole thing, butterflied.” And, he adds, “You never marinate beef. Never, never, never. All you add is salt.” It’s best to assign an “asador,” the person who will actually cook the meat. He – or, if you want to break with tradition, she – will likely start with the ribs because they take the longest to cook. Next it’s the sausages, especially the small Chilean chorizos that are tucked into rolls for the savoury appetizer called a “choripan.” After that, it’s chicken, then lamb, and finally steak. It’ll take, oh, at least an hour or so for things to cook while you and your guests chat and drink wine. “One of the reasons you socialize so long is because all those meats need to cook for a really long time,” Cortez says. While the meat is cooking, toss together a fresh green salad – “We don’t eat a lot of carbs, so you won’t find a lot of potatoes and rice,” Cortez says – and put your guests to work mixing together some fresh salsas like the tomato-based Chilean pebre or Argentinean chimichurri, a fresh mélange of parsley, garlic and oil, to be served alongside the meat, “kind of like your HP Sauce.” Meanwhile, the dripping fat will create the most irresistibly savoury, smoky aromas at the same time it extends the life of the fire. By the time the meat is ready, your guests’ appetites will be, too. Put the salads and salsas on the table, fill the glasses with wine and beer, then mound the meat on platters and pass them around. “Sometimes we don’t even sit down, we just have a glass of wine and pick the meat right off the grill,” Cortez says with a laugh. Finish the meal with a light, easy dessert such as fruit salad, creamy flan or ice cream drizzled with the caramel sauce known as dulce de leche. And when the last bone has been picked clean and the last drop of wine has been drained, give the asador a round of applause for a job deliciously well done.

2828 FLAVOURSFLAVOURS SummerSummer 20152015 FlavoursWorld.ca FlavoursWorld.ca Summer 2015 FLAVOURS 29 This fresh salsa is traditionally used in Chile as an accompaniment for grilled meat, a topping on potatoes and a THE ASADO MENU condiment on the sausage-on-a-bun appetizer known as choripans. “It’s like RECIPES BY SEBASTIAN CORTEZ, EXCEPT AS NOTED our ketchup,” says Cortez.

Find Sebastian's

Sebastian Cortez, owner of Sebastian & Co, Fine Meats in Pebre recipe on West Vancouver, says: “Asado is a term used to describe not page 36 only a style of grilling meat, but also the social event of having or attending a barbecue in South America. It is about so much more than just the food – it’s the merry engagement all the guests have with the cooking process, as they gather around the charcoal, drinking cocktails or red wine, watching the host carefully tend to the grilled meats (salting and constantly flipping). Other guests may gather in the kitchen as they chop and dice for the salads and salsas. The communal spirit of an asado brings people together as they interact with food, wine and, most importantly, each other.”

Aperitif PISCO SOUR

To start CHORIPANS EMPANADAS (STORE BOUGHT)

To accompany PEBRE SAUCE CHIMICHURRI SAUCE SALSA VERDE

To continue GRILLED RIBS GRILLED CHICKEN GRILLED BEEF STEAK ROAST POTATOES ENSALADA CHILENA

To finish DULCE DE LECHE SERVED OVER VANILLA ICE CREAM

30 FLAVOURS Summer 2015 FlavoursWorld.ca FlavoursWorld.ca Summer 2015 FLAVOURS 31 Asado Style Grilled Meat For this South American-style barbecue, the cooking technique doesn’t really vary by cut; everything is usually done as slowly as possible. The key is cooking everything over charcoal – not briquettes, but real hardwood coals. For the beef, these lesser-known but immensely flavourful cuts are generally grilled whole, then sliced on the bias and served family style. You will likely have to ask your butcher for them ahead of time.

SERVES A crowd PREP TIME About an hour until charcoal is ready COOKING TIME Varies; see below Find perfect pairings for an Baby back ribs (1 hour cooking time, or more) Asado meal on page 49 Small fresh chorizo sausages (20 minutes) Chicken thighs, boneless, skin on (16 minutes) Whole beef steaks such as Argentinean vacio (also known as bavette or sirloin flap), Brazilian picanha (sirloin cap), flank steak, skirt steak, hanger steak or tri tip (about 30 minutes each) Kosher salt, lots Crusty South American rolls called “batido,” or chunks of baguette (for the choripans) Pebre (see recipe on p. 36) Chimichurri (see recipe on p. 35) Salsa Verde (see recipe on p. 63)

THE FIRE CHICKEN 1. Light the charcoal. Using a chimney is the easiest way to get the coals going. 6. At this point, you’ll want to build up the heat a little bit for the chicken, so add Once you have a layer of hot coals, add more coals until you have a nice, deep, even some more coals and let the heat come up to a medium-high range. Keep the ribs in bed. Be careful not to smother the burning coals as you add the new ones. 2. The coals a cooler area of the grill. 7. Sprinkle the boneless chicken thighs with salt just on the are ready when they are white and the heat is low enough that you can comfortably skin side. Place the pieces of chicken skin side down over the hottest part of the grill. hold your hand 13 centimetres (five inches) above the grill for two seconds. This should After 8 minutes, turn the pieces over. After another 8 minutes, remove them from the take about an hour, and expect to continue adding more coals to the fire as you go. fire, chop them into bite-sized pieces and serve. RIBS BEEF 3. Because the ribs take the longest to cook, start with them first. Remove the silver 8. Finally, the main attraction. Place your whole cut of meat on the grill and sprinkle it skin on the back, sprinkle the ribs generously with salt, and place them on the grill. generously with salt. After 10 minutes or so, flip it over and sprinkle the other side with Turn them every few minutes. They will take about an hour to cook in total, over low heat. salt. 9. Continue grilling, flipping the meat frequently, until medium rare, about 30 SAUSAGES minutes in total. It should measure 63°C (145°F) internally with a meat thermometer. 4. After the ribs have been on the fire for about 15 minutes, clear a bit of space on the 10. Remove beef from grill, allow it to rest for 5 to 10 minutes, then slice against the grill and cook the sausages for the choripans. (Note that in South America, they might grain. 11. Remove ribs from grill and slice between the bones. 12. Arrange beef and also add sweetbreads and blood sausage to this step.) 5. After a couple of minutes, ribs on a large platter and serve with pebre, chimichurri and salsa verde, as well as a turn the sausages, and keep turning them every couple of minutes until they are fresh salad and, if you like, grilled corn and roasted potatoes. (For those who prefer cooked through, about 20 minutes in total. Place them on buns and serve them with their meat well done, throw the slices back on the grill for an additional 3 minutes.) pebre or chimichurri while the rest of the meat is cooking.

3232 FLAVOURSFLAVOURS SummerSummer 20152015 FlavoursWorld.ca FlavoursWorld.ca Summer 2015 FLAVOURS 33 Ensalada Chilena Chimichurri This is a must at any asado and is considered Chile’s national salad. This condiment made of finely chopped fresh herbs is traditionally served in Argentina as an accompaniment to grilled meat. MAKES About 3 cups (750 mL) MAKES About 4 cups (1 L) PREP TIME 45 minutes PREP TIME 15 minutes COOKING TIME None COOKING TIME None 1 tbsp (15 mL) sugar 2 ¼ cups (560 mL) cilantro, leaves only 1 tbsp (15 mL) salt 1½ cups (375 mL) Italian parsley, leaves only Water, as needed ¾ cup (180 mL) fresh oregano, leaves only 1 cup (250 mL) finely julienned sweet white onions 1½ shallot, peeled and finely diced 3 cups (750 mL) medium-sized tomatoes cut into thin wedges ½ cup (125 mL) finely diced tomato 1 tbsp (15 mL) finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves 2 garlic cloves, minced 3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil ¾ cup (180 mL) fresh lemon juice 1 tbsp (15 mL) fresh lemon juice 1½ tsp (7 mL) sambal chili sauce Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste 2 tsp (10 mL) kosher salt 1 tsp (5 mL) freshly ground black pepper 1. Place the onions in a non-reactive bowl. Sprinkle sugar and salt on top, then add 2 cups (500 mL) vegetable oil enough water to cover by a couple of inches. Mix together well and allow to sit for about half an hour or 45 minutes – the brine will sweeten some of the harsh onion 1. Finely chop the herbs by hand – alternatively, you could use a food processor, but run the risk of the herbs turning to mush. 2. Finely dice the shallot and tomato by hand, flavour.2. Meanwhile, slice the tomatoes and chop the cilantro. 3. Drain the onions, then rinse them two or three time in fresh changes of water. 4. Mix tomatoes, onion and mince the garlic. 3. Combine chopped herbs, tomato, shallot and garlic in a large, and cilantro together in a large, non-reactive bowl. 5. In a small bowl, whisk together non-reactive bowl, and stir in the lemon juice. 4. Season with sambal, salt and pepper, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Pour dressing over salad, toss gently and serve. and mix well. 5. Add the vegetable oil, and serve.

3434 FLAVOURSFLAVOURS SummerSummer 20152015 FlavoursWorld.ca FlavoursWorld.ca Summer 2015 FLAVOURS 35 Dulce de Leche This rich, creamy caramel sauce is popular across South America, enjoyed in coffee, on sandwiches or just on its own. We love finishing a summer meal with a dollop of it warmed up and spooned over vanilla ice cream and garnished with chopped toasted nuts. Recipe by Joanne Sasvari.

MAKES About 1 to 1 ½ cups (250 to 375 mL) PREP TIME 5 minutes COOKING TIME 2 hours

4 cups (1 L) whole milk 1 ½ cups (375 mL) granulated sugar ½ tsp (2 mL) baking soda 1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract

1. Combine milk, sugar and baking soda in a large, heavy saucepan and place over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, stirring frequently, until sugar dissolves completely. 2. Reduce heat to low and continue to cook at a bare simmer, stirring occasionally, until it is thickened and caramelized, about 2 hours. Stir more frequently in the second hour of cooking to prevent it burning. 3. Stir in the vanilla extract. Remove from heat, scrape into a bowl and allow to cool completely before serving. Alternatively, you can store it in a sterilized jar in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.

Roasted Potatoes Pebre Potatoes aren’t usually served at a traditional asado, but in North America, we MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS (750 ML) expect some sort of starchy side along with the meat. Cortez’s wife, Jessica Gibson, PREP TIME 15 MINUTES COOKING TIME NONE makes these irresistible roast potatoes, which are perfectly crispy on the outside, tender and fluffy inside. 2 medium tomatoes, finely chopped, approximately 1½ cups (375 mL) SERVES A crowd 1 white onion, finely chopped, approximately 1½ PREP TIME 20 minutes cups (375 mL) COOKING TIME 1 hour 1 bunch cilantro, chopped, approximately ½ cup (125 Medium sized white- or yellow-fleshed potatoes, mL) 1 per guest ¼ cup (60 mL) fresh lemon juice Vegetable oil with a high smoke point, such as canola or grapeseed 1 tsp (5 mL) kosher salt Flour, as needed ¼ cup (60 mL) vegetable or olive oil Salt to taste 1. Combine chopped tomatoes, onion and cilantro

1. Preheat oven to 450° F (230°C). 2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. 3. Pour enough oil in a large, non-reactive bowl. 2. Add lemon juice, to lightly coat the potatoes into a large roasting pan or rimmed baking sheet, and place the pan in salt and oil. Toss and serve. the oven. 4. Meanwhile, peel the potatoes and quarter them. 5. Put the potatoes in the boiling water and par-boil for 10 minutes, just until they are starting to soften. 6. Drain the potatoes well, then toss them with flour until they are lightly but thoroughly covered.7. Carefully remove the pan of hot oil from the oven and add the potatoes to the pan, tossing them well. Place the pan back in the oven for another 45 minutes, make sure to turn them every 15 minutes or so. 8. When the potatoes are golden and crispy, remove the pan from the oven, salt the potatoes well, and serve.

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