Victor Manuel Fuentes Flores La Gastronomía Carioca Por La Prensa

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Victor Manuel Fuentes Flores La Gastronomía Carioca Por La Prensa Victor Manuel Fuentes Flores La Gastronomía Carioca por la Prensa Dissertação de Mestrado Dissertação apresentada ao Programa de Pós- Graduação em Comunicação Social de la PUC-Rio como requisito parcial para obtenção do titulo de Mestre em Comunicação Social. Orientador: Prof. José Carlos Rodrigues Rio de Janeiro Abril de 2016 Victor Manuel Fuentes-Flores La Gastronomía Carioca por la Prensa Disertación presentada al Programa de Pós-Graduação em Comunicação Social del Departamento de Comunicação Social da PUC-Rio, como requisito parcial para la obtención del título de Mestre. Prof. José Carlos Rodrigues Orientador Departamento de Comunicação Social – PUC-Rio Prof. Miguel Pereira Departamento de Comunicação Social – PUC-Rio Prof. Antonio Edmilson Rodrigues Departamento de História – PUC-Rio Prof.a Mônica Herz Vice-Decana de Pós-Graduação do CCS Rio de Janeiro, 14 de Abril de 2016 Todos los derechos reservados. Está prohibida la reproducción total o parcial de éste trabajo sin autorización de la universidad, del autor y del orientador. Victor Manuel Fuentes Flores Se graduó de la Licenciatura en Comunicación Social en 2004 y se especializó en Gastronomía en 2009, ambas por la Universidad Regiomontana en Monterrey, México; se especializó en Arte y Estudios de Género por la Utrecht Universiteit en Holanda en 2002 y se especializó en Producción Televisiva por la Universitat Autònoma de Barcelona en España en 2003. Tiene más de 15 años de experiencia en la radio así como en el área de gastronomía. Ficha Catalográfica Fuentes Flores, Victor Manuel La gastronomía carioca por la prensa / Victor Manuel Fuentes Flores ; orientador: José Carlos Rodrigues. – 2016. 194 f. : il. color. ; 30 cm Dissertação (mestrado)–Pontifícia Universidade Católica do Rio de Janeiro, Departamento de Comunicação Social, 2016. Inclui bibliografia 1. Comunicação Social – Teses. 2. Gastronomia. 3. Jornalismo. 4. Botecos. 5. Restaurantes. 6. Cozinheiros. I. Rodrigues, José Carlos. II. Pontifícia Universidade Católica do Rio de Janeiro. Departamento de Comunicação Social. III. Título. CDD: 302.23 Para mis padres Dulce y Victor por ser mi barco y mi vela en éste mar infinito; para mi compañero de vida Manuel Simões, por ser el faro que ilumina el puerto seguro de mi hogar. Agradecimientos A mi orientador, consejero y amigo, el Profesor José Carlos Rodrigues por la confianza, la paciencia, los consejos, el apoyo y la inspiración que sus palabras me proporcionaron para la realización de este trabajo, dentro y fuera de aula. A mi amiga la escritora y Profesora María Teresa Atrián, por su amistad, su objetividad, apoyo y consejos durante la creación de éste trabajo. A la coordinadora y profesora de Pos-Graduación en Comunicación Social Cláudia Pereira por creer en mi y animarme a continuar. Al profesor y ex-coordinador de Pos-Graduación en Comunicación Social Miguel Serpa Pereira por apoyar mis propuestas desde que llegué a la PUC-Rio. A los profesores Roberto DaMatta, Everardo Rocha, Ana Branco, Leonel Aguiar, Andrea França, Denilson Lopes, Consuelo Lins y todos los profesores que impulsaron mi inspiración y conocimiento en cada aula. A Osvaldo Emery del Ministerio de Cultura por su incalculable apoyo y por compartir la idea de que la gastronomía y su evolución son parte fundamental de la Identidad Cultural de un pueblo, así como al resto del personal del MC que facilitó el camino para realizar este trabajo. A Luciana Fróes de “O Globo”, David Bispo del “Bar do David”, Katia y Bianca Barbosa del “Aconchego Carioca”, Doña Isis del “Siri Mole” y al historiador Antonio Edmilson Rodrigues por escucharme, intercambiar ideas y por su trabajo incansable en la divulgación de la cultura gastronómica, cada uno desde su trinchera. Al personal de O Globo por el apoyo con informaciones y sugerencias. A mi familia y amigos por su amor incondicional, por creer en mi y acompañarme en este viaje. A ésta Ciudad Maravillosa que ha sido un parte aguas en mi vida y se ha convertido en mi hogar. A la CAPES, la PUC-Rio, Marise Lira y todo personal administrativo del Departamento de Comunicación Social por socorrerme en los momentos precisos. Al Consulado Mexicano en Rio de Janeiro por el apoyo brindado. Al Instituto DAGAZ por ayudarme a conocer y entender la vida y la comida de los Quilombos. A los involucrados en la defensa de ésta disertación, profesores de la banca y amigos. Resumo Fuentes Flores, Victor; Rodrigues, José Carlos. (Orientador). A Gastronomia Carioca pela Imprensa. Rio de Janeiro, 2016. 194p. Dissertação de Mestrado - Programa de Pós-Graduação em Comunicação Social, Pontifícia Universidade Católica do Rio de Janeiro. O objetivo principal desta dissertação é mostrar a Gastronomia Carioca no cenário das diversas gastronomias brasileiras. Isso não seria possível sem fazer uma viagem histórica e geográfica, apoiando-se em metodologias qualitativa e quantitativa, com base em entrevistas e estatísticas. O trabalho apoia-se também em estudos realizados por algumas instituições especializadas, bem como em depoimentos de cozinheiros e de jornalistas gastronômicos. Depois de pouco mais de 500 anos da chegada dos primeiros colonizadores, a mistura étnica e identidade cultural refletida através da comida faz do Brasil um país imensamente diverso. O sincretismo cultural derivado deste fenômeno é encontrado na mesa de cada casa, restaurante e botequim brasileiro. Tal processo atua também sobre a culinária carioca. Palavras-Chave Gastronomia; jornalismo; botecos; restaurantes; cozinheiros; identidade cultural. Abstract Fuentes Flores, Victor; Rodrigues, José Carlos. (Advisor). The Carioca Gastronomy by the Press. Rio de Janeiro, 2016. 194p. Dissertação de Mestrado - Programa de Pós-Graduação em Comunicação Social, Pontifícia Universidade Católica do Rio de Janeiro. The main objective of this dissertation is to show the carioca gastronomy among the scenario of the several Brazilian cuisines. This would not have been possible without a geographic and historical journey, supported by qualitative and quantitative methodologies based on interviews and published statistics. This work is also supported on chefs and food journalists testimonies. More than 500 years since the arrival of the first colonizers, an ethnic blend and the cultural identity displayed through gastronomy have made an immensely diverse country out of Brazil. The cultural syncretism derived from this phenomenon can be found on the table of every Brazilian home, restaurant and bar (botequim). This process also acts upon Carioca culinary. Keywords Gastronomy; journalism; bars; restaurants; chefs; cultural identity. Resumen Fuentes-Flores, Victor; Rodrigues, José Carlos. (Orientador). La Gastronomía Carioca por la Prensa. Rio de Janeiro, 2016. 194p. Dissertação de Mestrado - Programa de Pós-Graduação em Comunicação Social, Pontifícia Universidade Católica do Rio de Janeiro. El objetivo principal de ésta disertación es mostrar la Gastronomía Carioca en el escenario de las diferentes gastronomías brasileñas. Esto no sería posible sin hacer un viaje histórico y geográfico apoyado por metodologías cualitativa y cuantitativa, basado en entrevistas y estadísticas. El trabajo se apoya también en estudios lanzados por algunas instituciones especializadas, así como en testimonios de cocineros y periodistas gastronómicos. Después de poco más de 500 años de la llegada de los primeros colonizadores, la mezcla étnica y la identidad cultural reflejada a través de la gastronomía hacen de Brasil un país inmensamente diverso. El sincretismo cultural derivado de éste fenómeno lo encontramos también en la mesa de cada hogar, restaurante y bar (Botequim) brasileño. Tal proceso actúa también sobre la culinaria Carioca. Palabras Clave Gastronomía; periodismo; bares; restaurantes; cocineros; identidad cultural. Sumario 1. Introducción 13 2. La Ruta Histórico-Gastronómica en Brasil 17 2.1. Las Venas de la Conquista 17 2.1.1. Abuela Francesa 18 2.1.2. Madre Portuguesa 18 2.2. Globalización y Expansión, desde que el hombre existe 19 2.3. La Casa y la Calle 23 2.4. Identidades Cariocas 24 3. Brasiles. 27 3.1. Indios, los “negros de la tierra” 31 3.2. Portugueses, los blancos que colonizaron 34 3.3. Africanos, las “piezas de Guiné” 35 3.4. Italianos. “Far-la-america”. Italo-brasileños 42 3.5. Españoles. Los “Ganchos”. Hispano-brasileños 45 3.6. Alemanes. Teuto-brasileños 45 3.7. Japoneses. Nipo-brasileños 46 3.8. Otros Inmigrantes 48 4. Gastronomía Brasileña. ¿Un caso de Regiones o de Biomas? 50 4.1. Regiones Brasileñas 50 4.1.1. Región Norte 53 4.1.2. Región Noreste 54 4.1.3. Región Centro-Oeste 56 4.1.4. Región Sudeste 58 4.1.5. Región Sur 59 4.2. Biomas 61 4.2.1. Bioma Amazónico 65 4.2.2. Bioma Cerrado 67 4.2.3. Bioma Mata-Atlántica 69 4.2.4. Bioma Caatinga 71 4.2.5. Bioma Pampas 74 4.2.6. Bioma Pantanal 76 4.3. Prensa y Copa del Mundo 2014. Hablando de Gastronomía 77 4.4. Actores del Día a Día 85 5. Consideraciones Finales 92 6. Referencias Bibliográficas 95 7. Apéndice 99 8. Anexos 101 Ilustraciones Figura 1: Mapa de las 5 Regiones Brasileñas: Norte, Noreste, Centro-Sur, Sudeste y Sur 52 Figura 2: Región Norte 53 Figura 3: Región Noreste 54 Figura 4: Región Centro-Oeste 56 Figura 5: Región Sudeste 58 Figura 6: Región Sur 59 Figura 7: Mapa de los 6 Biomas Brasileños 62 Figura 8: Bioma Amazonico 65 Figura 9: Bioma Cerrado 67 Figura 10: Bioma Mata-Atlántica 69 Figura 11: Bioma Caatinga 71 Figura 12: Bahiana vendiendo acarajé 73 Figura 13: Bioma Pampas 74 Figura 14: Bioma Pantanal. 76 Figura 15: Página del Portal Brasil 78 Figura 16: Portal de la Copa del Mundo 2014 79 Figura 17: Portal Brasil. Baianas do Acarajé preparadas para la Copa do Mundo 2014 80 Figura 18: Portal Brasil. Turistas elogiando la culinaria brasileña 81 Figura 19: Periódico The Guardian 82 Figura 20: Periódico El País 83 Figura 21: Periódico El Universal 84 A verdade é que não só de espírito vive o homem: vive também de pão – inclusive de pão de ló, do pão doce, do bolo que é ainda pão.
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