AUTUMN

2016

JOSÉE DI STASIO THE GREAT COMEBACK VARIETIES TO DISCOVER Josée di Stasio at 45 NEW PRODUCTS IN STORES Pizzeria No. 900 in Outremont SEPTEMBER 29, OCTOBER 13 AND OCTOBER 27

P01a_CEL_Couverture_Automne2016_AN.indd 1 2016-08-10 13:26 THE SAQ, ALWAYS CLOSE BY

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NO ANNONCE : SAQ 100207098 Épreuve : 1 F Page: 1 100207098_SAQ_DOWNLOAD_CELLIER Format 9” x 10,875” PLEINE PAGE Montage à 100% du format final ANGLAIS CLIENT : SAQ Impression finale à 100 % Infographiste : LB PUBLICATION : Cellier EN CYAN PARUTION : Octobre 2016 MAGENTA ATTENTION — L’imprimeur doit effectuer le trapping selon ses propres specs. Rédaction Directeur Direction Service à Client Production Correction FORMAT : PP 9” x 10,875” YELLOW de création artistique la clientèle d’épreuves COULEURS : CMYK BLACK LIVRAISON: RUSH IN STORES SEPTEMBER 29,

DIRECTOR – EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING – SAQ OCTOBER 13 AND 27 Sandrine Bourlet 45 products to discover. MANAGER – MULTICANAL CONTENT MARKETING – SAQ Sophie Drouin PUBLISHER – SAQ Johanne Morrisseau CONTRIBUTORS – SAQ Éric Bertoldi, Liette Chaput, François Couture, Maxime Desjardins, François Fortier, Pierre Lauzon, Stéphane Leroux, Martin De Lottinville, Marie-Ève Meunier, Julie Perreault, Isabelle Plante, Alain Smith 4 JOSÉE DI STASIO TVA PUBLICATIONS INC. CUSTOM PUBLISHING DIVISION The great comeback. GENERAL MANAGER CUSTOM PUBLISHING DIVISION Robert Renaud EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Catherine Elie 16 GRAPE VARIETIES ART DIRECTOR A world of choices. Renée Grégoire LIFESTYLE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Josée Larivée EDITORIAL STAFF 26 FINE SPIRITS Rémy Charest, Myriam Huzel, Marie-Ève Lamothe, Gin cocktails and Scotch whiskies. Colette Lens, Pascale Navarro CONTRIBUTOR Kler-Yann Bouteiller COPY EDITOR 28 ORIGINE QUÉBEC Donna Jensen Rivière du Chêne Winery. TRANSLATORS Heather Camlot, My-Trang Nguyen ART 29 NEW ARRIVALS Graphic artists Blanca Arellano, Christiane Gauthier Details on our specially PHOTO: MAUDE CHAUVIN. MAUDE PHOTO: MANAGER DESIGN STUDIO AND PRINT selected new releases. Diane Gignac ON THE COVER PROJECT MANAGER Josée di Stasio, seen here at Pizzeria No. 900 Andrée-Anne Gauthier in Outremont, appreciates the constantly evolving PRODUCTION variety of pizza styles in Montreal. Steeve Tremblay (Production Coordinator) ADVERTISING SALES Julia Lazzaroto – SAQ 514-254-6000, ext. 6947 SAQ CUSTOMER SERVICE Montreal area: 514-254-2020 Elsewhere in Quebec: 1-866-873-2020 PRINTING TC Imprimeries Transcontinental, a division of Imprimeries Transcontinental S.E.N.C. All correspondence should be addressed to: 1100 René-Lévesque Blvd. West, 20th Floor, Montreal, Quebec, H3B 4X9, CANADA. Telephone: 514-657-2320 [email protected] CELLIER NEW ARRIVALS, published six times a year, is produced and published by TVA Publications inc. Custom Publishing Division, in association with the following SAQ departments: Marketing; Purchasing and Merchandising; Communications; Quality Management; Sales and Legal Services. SAQ headquarters is located at 905 De Lorimier Avenue, Montreal, Quebec, H2K 3V9. CELLIER is a registered trademark of the Société des alcools du Québec. Any reproduction of articles, illustrations or photographs is strictly prohibited. Prices for products in the magazine are subject to change without notice. Legal Deposit: Bibliothèque nationale du Québec, National Library of Canada. ISSN 1911-2238. Publications Mail Agreement 40064963. Return undeliverable addresses to CELLIER, 905 De Lorimier, Montreal, Que. H2K 3V9.

Limited quantities. No layaways are permitted until the Monday following the release of products. Prices are subject to change without notice.

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P03_CEL_Sommaire_Automne2016_AN_v2.indd 3 2016-08-15 13:58 Josée di Stasio THE GREAT COMEBACK

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PHOTOS: MAUDE CHAUVIN, ASSISTANT: PHIL BERNARD; ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CAROLINE SIMON; HAIR/MAKEUP: GÉRALD BÉLANGER; CULINARY STYLIST: BLAKE MACKAY; FASHION STYLIST: MONIQUE MACOT; ÇA VA DE SOI (PULL P. 5), LE VOYEUR (RING P. 5); DAPHNÉ CARON (P. 10). product traceability.” it.Iwant with but ifnot,I’msticking variety and I worrySometimes that itwould somehow change… Atwater Market. Butmylocalmarket isJean-Talon. for coffeeinLittle Burgundy, I’llhop over tothe meet friends,I’lldomyshoppingthere. IfI’mgoing neighbourhoods. IfI’mheadingtoVal-David to be. InMontreal, Ihave regular stops indifferent route isusuallyaround designed where Ihave to she loves makingthosepersonal“My connections. would never have themarket tovisit again. But there’s noway Icangrow tomatoes.” terrace, andsinceIshare thatasquirrel, space with calls “fragrances” .“Idon’t have muchroom onmy there are afew containers ofherbs –whichshe from signature tableware. Outsideontheterrace, that comefrom fleamarkets,” shesays. It’s cry afar you’ll findlotsofmismatched bowls. “Ihave some garden, cellar. nowine Insidekitchencabinets, heart ofthecity. Nolarge yard, novegetable unassuming woman. or anyotherculinarytools.Josée diStasioisan surname doesn’t appearoncutleryorcookware the cookingandgastronomic worlds, herItalian And whilehernameisameasure ofquality within comes topairingwine. whenit on herinstinct in peopleandtodepend cuisine, tobeinterested tosupportlocal continues a two-year hiatus, she Back ontelevision following J If diStasiodidgrow herown vegetables, she Her samemodesty reigns inherhome,the reserved seatingat starred restaurants. she doesn’t frequent hotspotsorhave solidly anchored intheurban arena, restaurants oropeningnights.Although osée diStasiodoesn’t runtonew

I’ll first orderI’ll first friesandthenfigure wantwiththem!” outwhatI seasonal.Imustadmitthatintheevening, whichisalways menu aswell, takeout At lunchtime,Ioften order thelentilsandoctopus,orsalmon. Ireally the like andqualityofmeals. AndIadore itstimelessappeal. the samelevel ofservice theturnover sohighinMontreal, thisrestaurant isasurvivor.“With You’ll stillfind allthetalk.”menu was Today, thisSaint-DenisStreet institutionisasure bet. Josée diStasioremembers theoriginofL’Express. “At thetime,incredible wine

Autumn 2016 2016-08-10 13:43 5 THE GREAT COMEBACK (CONTINUED)

Anchored in her city, this urbanite has explored other cities around the world. “My love of the city doesn’t mean I’m a fan of concrete and impersonal relationships. Quite the opposite: I love a ‘green’ city, and I love local businesses. A large city is also several small neighbourhoods. That’s how I like to approach Montreal.”

SET IN MOTION This impassioned supporter of fresh and colourful has hand. That changed everything! The message was heard done a lot for markets, and for those who sell their by more men, more workers, more young people, by products. By the 2000s, di Stasio was part of the couples who wanted to cook together, and by parents general movement that helped wake consumers up to the who wanted to get their children involved. Viewers went importance of buying local, to know where their products along to the Bas-du-Fleuve to meet a lamb producer, came from and to know how their foods were produced, to Iles-de-la-Madeleine to visit a cheesemaker. They in order to make clear choices. On the television shows followed hundreds of episodes, read magazines, blogs Ciel! Mon Pinard and Les Pieds Dans Les Plats, she and cookbooks. It was more than just a fad or fashion, worked alongside Daniel Pinard, who took a social rather it became a movement.” than a culinary approach. “With Daniel, recipes were the For her own series, A la di Stasio, which debuted in pretext to speaking about local producers. He proposed 2002, she would turn the spotlight on artisanal bakers, cooking based on the season and what was available at cheesemakers, charcutiers, butchers and winemakers the local market. And he simplified complicated recipes from places she frequented. Her playing fields were to make them more accessible. He would consider and Spain, the North American west coast and, of course, analyze recipes, adapt them and explain often-complex Quebec and the of her roots. “My di Stasio methods with confidence, spirit and lots of humour. grandparents never saw the episodes I shot in People became fans of his style.” Naples – their birthplace. My grandfather was a Pinard wasn’t the first to take an interest in local shepherd. He came to America with his accordion. produce and seasonality, but television offered him a My grandparents would have been very proud to novel timeslot. “When Daniel came on air in the early see their granddaughter grow up to be an Italophile.” evening, audiences watched with a glass of wine in

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P04-15_CEL_Josee Di Stasio_Automne2016_AN.indd 6 2016-08-10 13:43 Travelling may have opened di Stasio’s eyes to local products, but her family life is what forged her approach to cooking. She started cooking with her grandmother Guévin, an infinitely curious, carefree and fun Quebecoise. “With her, it was all a game. I could get dirty, experiment, have fun. Nothing was taken too seriously. Everything was based on the senses. My sensory pleasure comes from her.”

THE REAL DEAL Developing pride in one’s roots, in one’s history, is what with starred establishments. “A restaurant featuring di Stasio has always wanted to explore. “In my eyes, that’s fresh and well-incorporated ingredients, a small the art of living. Whether we evolve in a family or on our neighbourhood bistro – they may never have the own, whether we’re rich or poor, whether we live in the grandeur of large establishments, but we don’t always country or the city, the art of living is different for everyone. need that to be impressed.” But being proud of putting our own food on the table, that’s It was some time ago, while backpacking as a student, universal. When we can eat pasta with vegetables that we that she was struck by the taste of an incredibly ripe actually grow – that will always be fantastic!” fig in a market. And she still talks about eating a white But she feels the need to explain a bit more. “I don’t want peach in Greece, after which she was forced to shower to be known as the woman who does it all herself and never because it was so juicy. “That’s what I mean when I talk goes out! On the contrary, I love the terraces, cafés and about appreciation. My most memorable moments are of restaurants in my city, but I prefer to go when it’s quiet and people in a simple gathering, around fresh ingredients.” when I can take the time to appreciate things. I take note Like the famous rosemary chicken (see our recipe, page of the places people recommend. But I go at my own pace. 14) she had in Tuscany – a moving experience. “It was I highly admire our local young chefs. We’re benefiting from in the countryside. Near the house was an immense wonderful creativity here in Quebec. Sometimes, I invite rosemary hedge. In my life, I had only ever seen rosemary chefs from elsewhere to come with me to my favourite in flowerpots. These Italians pruned the hedge, threw some spots, and they are impressed. With reason! There is a in the fire, and brushed the chicken with oil and rosemary whole generation of bright, brave, courageous, inventive while cooking. We drank local wine, naturally. But local chefs out there who bring a wonderful energy to the city. wine in Tuscany… it’s unbelievable! The whole experience When they do good work, you can taste it right away. is an unforgettable aromatic memory. It’s a major lesson Those are the chefs I want to support. They inspire me.” to me: Drink and eat what grows around you. Instinctively, And yet, di Stasio has no problem saying that her most what comes from the same soil, from the same climate, memorable gastronomic memories have nothing to do pairs perfectly.”

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“This is my favourite time of day. When we have cocktails, we don’t expect a five-course meal. It’s the end of the afternoon and we just need to relax. At home, drinks happen at the kitchen counter, very laid-back. I don’t worry, but I always have a Plan B for cocktail hours that linger on into the night.”

GOING ON INSTINCT When discussing wine, di Stasio feels she’s out of She is, however, very sensitive when it comes to her league. Her humility serves her well. Like with food-wine pairings. “As I don’t have any expertise, cooking, the person who has no schooling in the I would say I go on instinct. I rely on my senses. matter takes more of an interest in the product and Based on what I’ve cooked, my palate wants to drink the artisan. “Conviviality around a bottle of wine something rounder, fatter, more floral, more mineral. gets me more animated than the vocabulary. For me, Otherwise, I haven’t any rules. I work with conviviality, the experience on the palate takes precedence over with pleasure and with what my senses tell me.” the rest. There’s nothing intellectual about my love But she has had some great periods of discovery. of wine. For me, wine is just part of the expression “For example, there was a time when I swore by ‘good times, good people, good wine.’” white Burgundy, when I would read up on it, stay in

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P04-15_CEL_Josee Di Stasio_Automne2016_AN.indd 8 2016-08-10 13:43 DI STASIO ON TÉLÉ-QUÉBEC Friday evenings at 8 pm, on Télé- Québec, di Stasio presents recipes, of course, but the show is designed to be, above all, a documentary approach to exploring the art of living in all its variations. “We go out and meet people. I want to present inspiring people in their own milieu. We travel across the city, but we The classic: A picnic by Beaver Lake… di Stasio considers herself to be lucky go outside the city as well. We go having Mount Royal close by and in view. “I go for a walk there regularly – it’s where inspiration takes us. We have fantastic all year round. It’s ‘our’ mountain, and it’s important to me that this space interesting encounters with authors remains green and accessible to everyone.” or chefs. I dig through their dishware, I’m interested in how they live. As always, the meeting itself takes precedence.” A theme is developed the know, taste, compare. But I could never stay faithful! on each episode. “If we find ourselves My friends would come along, serve a great Sancerre… in an Italian’s home – in their and I would completely stray from my tried and true!” She laughs. “It’s like with wine colour: I’ve always preferred garden – it’s to impart techniques white wines. But, slowly, I’m learning about reds. Certain and culinary know-how. But it’s also vins de soif completely seduce me. That’s the point I’m at to see how they thrive at home, how now. Usually my friends take care of the wine: Whatever they adapt and change in their own they suggest, I drink! That said, if I really have to choose, surroundings.” I still turn to Burgundy.” She pauses, then adds with a laugh: “Although, there’s always a Tuscan…”

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PIZZA: A CULINARY QUESTIONNAIRE Josée, with your Italian-Quebecois And for more traditional pizza? roots, you have everything you need to It requires the right oven, because real pizza make the best pizza in town, right? needs a very high cooking temperature and What I make isn’t a real pizza. It’s a pizzetta! very little time: 90 seconds. Homes aren’t I use pita, or any other kind of flatbread, and equipped for this. add my own toppings, especially vegetables, with Italian cheeses, feta, or chèvre… You prefer going to a pizzeria? depending on what I find in the fridge and what It’s important to have a reason to dine out! season it is. It makes for interesting lunches. It’s nice to go and eat something you can’t During the summer and fall when it’s nice out, make at home. And it’s festive to share a pizza I’ll even make pizza on the barbecue. I really with friends. It’s popular, accessible, a meal enjoy that burnt taste. I sometimes cut it into that can easily be shared, and depending on squares to serve during cocktails. Believe me, the occasion, it can be eaten with your hands! it makes for lengthy cocktail hours. What’s simpler than that?

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And for wine? Do you have any favourite spots 1. Bottega Pizzeria, I think the food-wine pairing for pizza is one in Little Italy? 65 Saint-Zotique East, Montreal of the easiest. There are so many toppings! I really like the pizza made by Stefano 2. Pizzeria Gema, Depending on the season, the time of day (Faita), the one they serve at Gema. It’s 6827 Saint-Dominique, Montreal and the type of pizza, you can go with white different, with non-traditional toppings. 3. Restaurant Moleskin, or red, light or full-bodied. Pairing is flexible Elsewhere in the city, in Outremont, I like 3412 Park Avenue, Montreal when it comes to pizza, allowing for more 900. The cooking is always impeccable. 4. Pizzeria No. 900, than one possibility, which is practical when I equally enjoy the fare from their food 1248 Bernard Avenue West, you get together with friends who all bring truck. This team really does good work. Montreal different wines. Friends of mine talk about Pizzeria Geppetto, in Little Burgundy, and Caldo, Do you have a favourite pizza place in the Angus Shop district of Rosemont. in the city? Finally, I met up with someone at I really like Bottega on Saint-Zotique for Moleskin on Parc Avenue. I had already Neapolitan pizza. The brothers who own it eaten, so I just had the last slice. It was have also opened San Gennaro, a café that delicious! The team behind Pullman (the serves Roman pizza on large square tin two co-owners and the sommelier) along plates – easily consumed at lunchtime. with Fred St-Aubin, the former chef of Fabrizio, the Covone family pizzaiolo, did Club 357c, are behind it. I have every an internship in Naples for Bottega. He also intention of going back. These last few completed a training program in Rome before years, the pizzeria offerings in Montreal opening San Gennaro Café. These are two have become really interesting. And you very different styles of pizza they offer. have to take advantage.

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P04-15_CEL_Josee Di Stasio_Automne2016_AN.indd 11 2016-08-10 13:44 THE GREAT COMEBACK (CONTINUED)

ZUCCHINI-AND- FETA BALLS Recipe by Josée di Stasio

INGREDIENTS 450 g (1 lb) grated green zucchini (3 to 4 zucchini) 2 mL (1/2 tsp) salt 60 mL (1/4 cup) fresh mint, chopped 3 green onions, finely chopped 1 egg 30 mL (2 tbsp) grated Parmesan 125 mL (1/2 cup) finely crumbled feta 125 mL (1/2 cup) Panko bread crumbs 1 pinch hot pepper 2 mL (1/4 tsp) each salt and pepper

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This recipe, created exclusively for Cellier, will be featured (at 8 pm) on the October 7 episode of À la di Stasio on Télé-Québec. Don’t miss it!

MAKES 24 Preparation: 15 minutes Cooking: 25 minutes

STEP 1 Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F). STEP 2 OCTOBER 13 Grease or line a baking sheet. STEP 3 PORTUGAL HERDADE DO ESPORAO Place the grated zucchini in a colander, season with 2015, ALENTEJO salt and pepper, and mix well. Let rest for 5 minutes. $18.95 12952973, 750 ML STEP 4 With a clean kitchen towel, or with bare hands, press the zucchini to remove as much liquid as possible. About 500 mL (2 cups) of zucchini should remain. COCKTAIL POWER HOUR STEP 5 A wine with a Mediterranean spirit is just the match for the In a bowl, combine the drained zucchini with feta cheese in this recipe. These canapés, with their creamy the rest of the ingredients. texture, maintain a characteristic liveliness of mint and feta. STEP 6 Meanwhile, the wine expresses the aromatic purity of the Cook a small amount of the mixture in a skillet. Taste Verdelho grape, an indigenous from Portugal. Citrus and adjust seasoning, as needed. accents are quite present and marry well with the saltiness STEP 7 of the dish. Shape into 2.5-cm (1-in) balls by rolling them Planted in the Alentejo region of Portugal, in the southern in the palms of your hands. part of the country, the grape absorbs all the heat bestowed STEP 8 upon it by ample sunshine. The wine, then, carries with it Transfer to the baking sheet and bake for 25 minutes. a supplementary weight on the palate, and reveals notes of Place under the broiler for a few more minutes to darken the colour. very ripe yellow fruit on the nose. So many elements come together for a successful pairing, including the wonderful STEP 9 Serve hot or at room temperature. freshness that prevails throughout. – Kler-Yann Bouteiller, sommelier

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ROASTED CHICKEN WITH ROSEMARY Recipe by Josée di Stasio

INGREDIENTS 1 1.4-kg (3-lb) chicken, butterflied (ask your butcher) 15 mL (1 tbsp) olive oil 2 mL (1/2 tsp) salt 10 mL (2 tsp) sweet paprika 4 to 5 sprigs rosemary* 4 to 5 cloves garlic, unpeeled

Paste 30 to 45 mL (2 to 3 tbsp) fresh rosemary, finely chopped* 30 mL (2 tbsp) grated lemon zest (using 1 large lemon) 10 mL (2 tsp) sweet paprika 15 to 30 mL (1 to 2 tbsp) olive oil 1 to 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 mL (1/2 tsp) salt

Vegetables 1 red onion, peeled and cut into 8 wedges 1 L (4 cups) new potatoes, halved or quartered, depending on size 2 assorted sweet peppers, cut into 8 pieces 60 mL (1/4 cup) olive oil 5 mL (1 tsp) salt Freshly ground pepper 1 pinch hot pepper (optional)

* Instead of rosemary, use any herbs you prefer, like thyme, oregano, tarragon…

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4 SERVINGS Preparation: 20 minutes Cooking: 60 minutes

STEP 1 Line two baking sheets (or a baking sheet for the vegetables and a roasting pan for the chicken) with parchment paper. STEP 2 Rinse to clean the chicken and pat dry. Transfer to one of the baking sheets. STEP 3 SEPTEMBER 29 To make the paste, combine all the ingredients. Gently lift the chicken breast and leg skins and spread the paste underneath SPAIN 2022 the skin. PALACIOS REMONDO, STEP 4 LA MONTESA RESERVA ESPECIAL 2010, In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, salt and paprika. Brush over RIOJA the entire surface of the chicken (top and bottom) and rub in with $45.00 12916438, 750 ML your fingers. STEP 5 Tuck the wings under the chicken. Slide the rosemary sprigs and garlic cloves under the chicken. STEP 6 FULL OF CHARACTER Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F). This Rioja certainly doesn’t lack in personality! It offers a STEP 7 sustained mouthfeel and powerful aromas. The vegetal Place the vegetables in a large bowl. Add the olive oil, salt, pepper character evokes conifers and it couples with the scent and hot pepper, and toss well. Transfer to the second baking sheet. of the rosemary as it cooks. Chicken with rosemary and STEP 8 paprika calls for a wine with marked flavours, capable Cook the chicken for 30 minutes then place the vegetable baking of carrying the aromatic intensity of the meal. The wine’s sheet on the lower rack, below the chicken. Cook for another woody character matches well with the cooking method, 30 minutes. a slow roasting of the rubbed chicken. Finally, the rich fruit, STEP 9 mouth-filling texture and moderate acidity of this Iberian Serve the chicken with the vegetables and a salad, if desired. cuvée fully respect the tender character of the oven-roasted white meat. A juicy, flavourful pairing! NOTE: If necessary, ask your butcher to butterfly (flatten) the chicken To coincide with Josée di Stasio’s memories of Italy (our for you. Or do it yourself: With a sharp chef’s knife or kitchen shears, guest this issue), Puglia is also an option. Accompany the cut along each side of the backbone. Remove backbone and set chicken with Taurino 7 Ceppo (see page 22) and you’ll soon aside. Flatten the chicken with the palm of your hand. Freeze the be dreaming of your own vacations – past or future! backbone for future use in a broth. – K.Y. B.

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P04-15_CEL_Josee Di Stasio_Automne2016_AN.indd 15 2016-08-10 13:45 Grape Varieties A WORLD TO DISCOVER PHOTOS: MAUDE CHAUVIN, ASSISTANT: PHIL BERNARD; ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CAROLINE SIMON; FOOD STYLIST: BLAKE MACKAY. CAROLINE SIMON; FOOD STYLIST: STYLIST: ACCESSORIES PHIL BERNARD; ASSISTANT: CHAUVIN, MAUDE PHOTOS: The world’s winemakers have hundreds of grape varieties at their disposal from which to make every conceivable kind of wine – red, white, rosé, sparkling, dessert, fortified... Once you’ve developed a taste for it, learning about wine can be an endless occupation.

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P16-25_CEL_Cepages_Automne2016_AN.indd 16 2016-08-10 13:55 Wine owes its almost infinite diversity, both in colour and taste, in great part to the multiplicity of grape varieties found all over the planet. Choices and styles abound in every kind of climate.

hat gives each wine its The emphasis on so-called international particular aroma and grape varieties is in large measure the structure – in other words, preoccupation of major wine producers and W its personality? The soil, the a particular market segment, bent on offering climate and the winemaker’s products that wine drinkers will easily skills account for a great deal, of course, but recognize. , whether without a doubt, the most decisive factor is the from Australia, Bordeaux, California, Chile grape variety itself. Planted in the same place, or Italy, is a familiar grape, especially for cultivated and vinified in the same manner, consumers prone to finding wine culture a little Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Riesling or intimidating. For many producers, notably Viognier will produce very different wines. those from emerging regions, using well- Worldwide, there are almost 1,400 vine known varieties is also a way of spotlighting varieties that are used for making wine their region’s potential. commercially, not to mention thousands of Conversely, several countries and regions other types of table . Jancis Robinson’s today tend to showcase their vine heritage in Wine Grapes, written with Julia Harding and order to stand out from the crowd. The Turks José Vouillamoz, profiles these vine types, flaunt their Öküzgözü and Boğazkere. The ranging from Abbuoto to Zweigelt, from Portuguese gain ground thanks to the unique ancient standards to recent hybrids (like personality of Touriga Nacional, Touriga those used in Quebec), from the Armenian Francesa, Tinta Roriz and other Baga grapes. borders to the heart of Burgundy. And The Chileans rediscover the merits of Païs, Italy tops the diversity list, with almost the variety that produces popular vins de soif 350 known varieties. (thirst-quenchers) before the rise of various Cabernets on world markets. In southern FAMILIAR OR DIFFERENT? Italy’s Puglia region, Primitivo has become Amidst all these possibilities, the wine world a significant signature varietal, but wine portrays two opposing trends. On the one growers and local researchers are also pushing hand, there is the constant rise of popular white grapes, like the aromatic Minutolo, grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, or distinctive red grapes like Susumaniello. , Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Organizations like Wine Mosaic in Europe and Tempranillo. And on the other, there are seeking to promote vineyard biodiversity is the eagerness to promote indigenous through gatherings, theme tastings and other varieties, even to revive those that have activities aimed at promoting the belief that virtually disappeared. there is indeed life after Merlot.

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AMBIANCE FROMAGE

OCTOBER 13

SAVAGNIN

The Jura wine region is a highly individual contact with oxygen. The vin jaune imparts case, a kind of UFO among French vineyards. intense aromas of curry or hazelnut, thanks There are, of course, Chardonnays and to its key chemical compound called sotolon. Pinots to be found, in case consumers prefer This unusual bouquet goes particularly something more familiar, but the region is well with Comté or any other firm cheeses, primarily noted for its Poulsard, Trousseau and makes for an excellent sauce with and, most especially, Savagnin grapes. The poultry or trout. It doesn’t, however, provoke latter, a late- variety with high acidity an immediate appeal. That’s where non- and a hard skin (that is to say, resistant to oxidized Savagnins come in, revealing disease), is used for making vins jaunes the grape’s natural character and producing 2020 (yellow wines) and other oxidative products wines that are structured, expressive FRANCE in this northeastern region of France. and elegant, with floral and spicy notes. DOMAINE RIJCKAERT, LES SARRES 2013, Vin jaune is aged sous voile – under a film It’s a great way to discover the varietal. CÔTES DU JURA of naturally occurring surface yeast – in And here’s the good news: The wine is $28.75 12951356, 750 ML partly filled casks, which leave the wine in increasingly easy to find.

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The renewed interest in Mencía, grown in northwestern Spain, speaks volumes about the evolution of global wine consumption. Since consumers increasingly value quality and originality, and worldwide competition has grown ever stiffer, winemakers are always on the lookout for with an individual personality, capable AMBIANCE of creating distinctive cuvées. GIGOT

OCTOBER 13

MENCÍA

Should you need proof that overlooked and abandoned Mencía vines on hillsides varietals can turn out to be bona fide so steep that the vineyards had to be treasures, look no further than Mencía, planted on terraces in order to make the the key grape underpinning Bierzo best use of what little soil was available. and Ribeira Sacra wines in northern Needless to say, cuvées produced under Spain. Also known by the name Jaén in such conditions take on an altogether Portugal, where it is used to produce Dão different nature, imparting aromas of wines, Mencía enjoyed only a modest fresh red or black berries, graphite-like reputation some 30 years ago. And mineral tones and elegant hints that was because the vines were mainly of pepper. The best mountain Mencías planted in flat and fertile plains, yielding can resemble from the Northern WA 92 high crop values and in turn very thin Rhône Valley, with the same potential SPAIN 2020 wines. However, in the 1990s, savvy for aging. Lighter versions make for BODEGAS ADRIÁ, wine growers like Alvaro Palacios and satisfying vins de soif for Spanish VEGA MONTÁN 2010, BIERZO Raúl Pérez saw the potential of old drinkers – a well-deserved second life. $19.95 12932972, 750 ML

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Rather like Riesling, Chenin is one of those versatile varietals that can leave consumers a little puzzled because it’s not always easy to anticipate which wine style to expect. Some research (and recommendations from an in-store wine advisor) will help you fall for its charm.

WA 92

OCTOBER 13

SOUTH AFRICA 2019 RAATS, CHENIN BLANC 2014, STELLENBOSCH $21.85 12783524, 750 ML CHENIN There are precious few varieties as produces so many delicious sweet wines. versatile as this fantastic white grape While Chenin’s prestige has always from the Loire Valley. It can be used emanated from the historic Loire region, to produce dry and elegant , you’ll actually find twice as much growing quality sparkling wines, rich and floral in South Africa. Initially, this high cuvées, as well as an entire range of volume was part and parcel of South sweet wines – from moelleux (slightly Africa’s brandy trade, which used bulk- sweet) to dessert – made from grapes production Chenin wine as a base spirit infected with botrytis, or noble rot. Its for distillation. Today, wine growers in aromas of pear, occasional hints of peach, the Cape region extract a whole range of white flowers, even honey or wet wool, wines from this grape, from the simplest, can reveal a remarkable complexity. freshest table wines to reserve cuvées – Chenin’s naturally high acidity is most often woody and worth cellaring for noticeable in appellations such as Anjou, several years. The sunny maritime Vouvray and Saumur – a key component climate along South Africa’s southern that allows the wine to age over several edge, refreshed by two adjoining oceans, decades. High acidity, which preserves is highly favourable to a varietal that is freshness even when sugars are highly so comfortable in the maritime climate concentrated, also explains why Chenin of the Loire region.

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Thirst-quenching wines have grown increasingly popular in the past few years, and Cinsault is directly responsible for this trend, as are Gamay, Poulsard (from the Jura region) and Zweigelt (from Austria). These wines are both versatile with meals and pleasant to drink all on their own.

OCTOBER 13

SOUTH AFRICA 2020 LEEUWENKUIL, CINSAULT 2014, SWARTLAND $20.00 12976895, 750 ML CINSAULT A grape native both to the Rhône and bottle. While Grenache potentially notches Languedoc regions, Cinsault has long been up a 16-percent natural alcohol level, Cinsault suspected as having little merit. Well, holds steady at 13 percent while preserving perhaps just one: its innate ability to deliver its acidity at the same time. Moreover, older prolific yields. And that’s a perfect recipe vines produce wines that display character for producing either inexpensive reds or and complexity, with attractive aromas of light rosés for summertime quaffing. The red berries and mild spice. With the growing grape could be found everywhere in southern trend for lighter wines and moderate alcohol French vineyards during the first half of the content, however, Cinsault has regained the 20th century. But in the 1980s, wine growers, favour of wine growers who are only too eager to make more serious wines, began happy to use it to make vins de soif, not just in ripping it out enthusiastically to make way for southern France but also in Chile, California new varieties like Grenache, Mourvèdre or and South Africa. Incidentally, South African Syrah. Perhaps overlooked was the fact that producers have recently discovered quantities in particularly hot years, Cinsault possesses of old vines that they are turning into fine, the virtue of preserving fruit freshness in the high-end cuvées, delivering a long finish.

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Besides its signature grape, Primitivo, southern Italy’s Puglia region boasts other highly original red varieties like the Negroamaro (generous, fruity and easy to drink) and the Nero di Troia (tannic, exuberant and well structured). Both varieties are also used in blends.

OCTOBER 13

ITALY 2020 TAURINO, 7 CEPPO 2011, SALENTO $23.95 12941043, 750 ML PRIMITIVO Identifying grape varieties sometimes in each region – California or southern resembles detective work. Take the Italy – give a different character to the wines. Chilean Merlot that, after in-depth The newly discovered link has nonetheless investigation, was discovered to be given a new thrust to Primitivo production a different Bordeaux grape entirely, in Puglia, as the grape has suddenly been namely, Carmenère. The same degree taken much more seriously on world markets. of scrutiny was focused on the links Primitivo wines from Salento, Manduria and connecting the Italian grape Primitivo, Gioia del Colle are robust, spicy and often several Croatian varietals and , woody. When all its components are in that hallmark of California viticulture. perfect equilibrium, this generous grape It turns out that Primitivo and Zinfandel will wines that age well, as the 2011 are, in fact, one and the same grape, Taurino 7° Ceppo can attest – a wine both originally cultivated in Croatia under exuberant and seductive with pleasant notes the name of Crljenak Kaštelanski. Still, the of tobacco and spice, just right for drinking climatic conditions and the clones selected after five years.

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P16-25_CEL_Cepages_Automne2016_AN.indd 22 2016-08-10 13:56 THE WORLD’S MOST-PLANTED VARIETIES DIVERSITY IS IN 1990 IN 2010 THE NAME OF THE GAME 1. AIRÉN 1. CABERNET SAUVIGNON There are so many profiles and personalities to discover in the vast universe of grape varieties. Xinomavro comes to 2. GARNACHA TINTA 2. MERLOT mind, one of the Greek varieties whose best can stand toe to toe with the Barolos and Barbarescos from Piedmont, 3. RKATSITELI 3. AIRÉN blessed with an elegant and noble tannic structure. And what about the delicious Mondeuse with its mixture of red 4. SULTANIYE 4. TEMPRANILLO berries and white pepper, a beautiful mountain wine that is the pride of the Savoie region? Then add to the list the 5. TREBBIANO-TOSCANO 5. CHARDONNAY Tinta Roriz and its other Portuguese siblings, with notes of tobacco and licorice, or the refreshingly light Verdelho, 6. MAZUELO 6. SYRAH a popular maritime white from the Iberian Peninsula. But why stop here, when you can also try Rkatsiteli, Païs or 7. MERLOT 7. GARNACHA TINTA Abouriou? It’s impossible to be bored while you sip your 8. CABERNET SAUVIGNON 8. SAUVIGNON BLANC wine, as possibilities seem unlimited. And we haven’t even mentioned the blends... 9. MONASTRELL 9. TREBBIANO TOSCANO 10. BOBAL 10. PINOT NOIR

Source: University of Adelaide, Australia

WHAT IS ? The identification of grape varieties, ampelography is no simple undertaking. Ampelographers traditionally study elements like the different shapes of the vine leaves and grape berries, the vine structure, the growing cycle, and so on. OCTOBER 27 Genetics has radically transformed the approach, 2019 often disclosing unknown or misunderstood SOUTH AFRICA ROBERTSON WINERY, relationships between varieties located thousands CONSTITUTION ROAD CHARDONNAY 2014, of kilometres apart from one another. BREEDE RIVER VALLEY $24.90 13005759, 750 ML

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OCTOBER 13 EASY GOURMET Grilled Tuna and Tomato Salsa RECIPE AT SAQ.COM FIRED UP FOR FALL The tuna’s pink colour could prompt considering a similarly coloured wine, but the preparation on the grill makes the fish more like a meat in many ways, allowing for a red-wine pairing instead. This Burgundy Pinot Noir has everything going for it to match with a pleasant meal. On the palate, its freshness harmonizes with the tomato salsa, enhanced by the saltiness of the capers. The tannins, barely noticeable yet quite supple, suit the cooking method and do not conflict with the delicate meat of the tuna. Don’t hesitate 2018 for even a moment about opening this invigoratingly fruity wine alongside FRANCE DOMAINE CHANZY, this quickly prepared recipe. PINOT NOIR 2014, BOURGOGNE – K.Y. B. $28.80 13002961, 750 ML

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PHOTO: DANITA DELIMONT/GETTY IMAGES. reveals anyflaws ordeficiencies. varieties anditslighterstructure quickly fewer phenoliccompoundsthanother is especially demanding.Itnotably contains its native Burgundy at least 2,000years ago, Noir.grape, Vinificationofthis plantedin growerswine thanmakingthemost ofPinot There’s probably nogreater challenge for • • world canbe. understand how greatly diversified thePinot white, rosé andsparkling you wines, will and considerthat itcanbethebasisfor red, number ofavailable clonestothesevariations of asinglegrape: Pinot.Ifyou addthegreat Blanc andPinotMeunierare allvariations speaking, PinotNoir, PinotGris, WINE REGION

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A TRUE CLASSIC Gin and tonic is one of the most popular drinks of all time, yet how many of us know that it owes its bitter taste to the quinine contained in the tonic water? Quinine was once widely used as an anti-malarial remedy but began to be diluted with gin to lessen its bitterness. To properly mix this easy-to-make cocktail, nothing beats our Automnique recipe, which calls for “tonic syrup,” available at specialty stores. The syrup is preferable to the traditional bottled tonic water, which is so rich in additives it spoils the taste.

INGREDIENTS ■ 60 mL (2 oz) dry gin ■ 30 mL (1 oz) homemade or store-bought tonic syrup ■ Club soda ■ Ice cubes BROCKMANS ■ Seasonal fruit, to taste Blackberry-flavoured Dry gin, United Kingdom DIRECTIONS 750 ML (12502382) ■ Pour dry gin and tonic syrup $47.00 in an old-fashioned glass containing a few ice cubes. ■ Top up with club soda. TONIC SYRUP ■ Stir using a mixing spoon. + AND CLUB SODA = AUTOMNIQUE ■ Garnish with fruit.

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P26-27_CEL_Spiritueux_Automne2016_AN_v2.indd 26 2016-08-15 14:07 GENEROUS SCOTLAND The “cradle” of the world’s finest whiskies, Scotland produces as many varieties of Scotch as there are nuances in wines. In fact, of the hundreds of distilleries dotting the Scottish landscape, each has its individual style. Highland whiskies are full-bodied, Speysides display elegance, and others sport a seaside salty note. But all, without exception, lend themselves to relaxation and can serve as either aperitif or digestif.

AUCHENTOSHAN AMERICAN OAK LOWLAND SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY, United Kingdom 750 ML (12401477) $60.00 Aging in American oak barrels previously used for bourbon provides this Scotch with a rich and suave expression, including some distinctive and round notes of vanilla and coconut.

HIGHLAND PARK 12 YEARS ORKNEY SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY, United Kingdom 750 ML (00204560) $80.00 Located in the Orkneys, a windswept archipelago located north of Scotland, this distillery was established in 1798 and is at the top of the list for the most

COCKTAIL PHOTOS: MAUDE CHAUVIN. MAUDE PHOTOS: COCKTAIL demanding Scotch connoisseurs.

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P26-27_CEL_Spiritueux_Automne2016_AN.indd 27 2016-08-10 13:52 RIVIÈRE DU CHÊNE WINERY LOWER LAURENTIANS | DANIEL LALANDE

AT A GLANCE We’re talking about an award-winning winery. Its William red won gold at the 2016 Coupe des Nations in Quebec City, as did its Cuvée Glacée des Laurentides Vendanges Tardives at the 2015 Grands Vins du Québec competition, and its outstanding icewine, Monde, took top honours at the 2016 Vinalies in Paris.

Maréchal Foch accounts for one-third the William red’s grape content, and produces that peppery tang that goes so well with pizza.

The William has gained finesse over the years, says Daniel Lalande. The winemaker is proud to have maintained an assured consistency from one year to the next. PHOTO: MAUDE CHAUVIN. MAUDE PHOTO: Exuberant and pleasantly peppery, the William red makes a perfect partner for pizza and other simple but flavourful dishes.

• The time factor Daniel Lalande named • Expanded vineyards To his QUEBEC his wine for his son, a year after the boy was existing 16.5 hectares of vines in RIVIÈRE DU CHÊNE born. “My son will turn 18 in November. I’ve Saint-Eustache, Lalande recently added CUVÉE WILLIAM 2014 watched both Williams grow up. William, 24 hectares of land in adjacent Oka, of $16.05 00743989, 750 ML the wine, retains its lively personality, and which 20 hectares have now been planted GRAPES : MARÉCHAL FOCH, FRONTENAC ROUGE, LÉON MILLOT, that’s why people like to drink it young. At the with vines. The new addition is called STE-CROIX, BACO NOIR, SEYVAL same time, the wine is constantly evolving. La Cantina, a nod to Lalande’s fondness If you haven’t tasted it for a few years, why for the country. HOMEMADE PIZZA not try the 2014? The acidity has levelled AROMAS off and the accent is more on the fruit, so • VIP tasting tours Starting this RED FRUIT, BLACK CHERRY, that nose and mouthfeel are as one.” fall, small groups of visitors can take SPICES, HERBAL NOTES part in a new concept of wine tasting ACIDITY – LIVELY • An amazing region Winemakers have at the Saint-Eustache location. Called SUGAR LEVEL– DRY learned to work with the climate here in the VIP New Sensory, the session features Lower Laurentians as they have elsewhere five food-wine pairings. Rivière du Chêne BODY – MEDIUM in Quebec. “We constantly tend to the vines – also boasts a loyalty-based wine club PALATE – GENEROUS protecting the primary buds, for example, called Fleur de Lys, with 700 members thinning the clusters and monitoring the and counting. Membership is free and WOOD – UNOAKED

ripening fruit,” explains Lalande. “It’s our comes with a number of benefits plus Limited quantities. Vintages may vary way of improving the product.” exclusive offers. from store to store.

Discover the world of Origine Québec products at the SAQ at www.saq.com/originequebec-en

P28_CEL_OrigineQC_Automne2016_AN.indd 28 2016-08-10 13:49 ITALY BISOL VIGNETI DEL FOL 2014, VALDOBBIADENE, PROSECCO SUPERIORE $25.65 12914248, 750 ML Knowing the level of precision SCAN TO BUY and quality control involved in wine production at Bisol, it’s not surprising that this special cuvée found its way onto Decanter’s list of CANTALOUPE, FLORAL top 10 Proseccos. NOTES, CHALK GRAPE: GLERA ACIDITY – MODERATE SEPTEMBER 29 BRUNCH SUGAR LEVEL – OFF DRY ONLINE PRESALE FROM SEPTEMBER 22 50BODY – LIGHT > PALATE – GENEROUS Products are available in limited quantities. No layaways are permitted until the Monday following the release of the products. WOOD – UNOAKED Prices are subject to change without notice. 8 000872 030015

UNITED STATES 2020 SPAIN CLOS DU BOIS CALCAIRE 2013, SOUTH AFRICA 2018 LOS BERMEJOS MALVASIA RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY MULLINEUX KLOOF STREET 2015, SECO 2015, LANZAROTE $27.85 12281532, 750 ML SWARTLAND $25.65 12951102, 750 ML Clos du Bois has won multiple $23.15 12889409, 750 ML Created from a variety of Malvasia awards for this Calcaire , A rising star! After only four specific to the Canary Islands, including a Double Gold and vintages, Chris and Andrea a Spanish archipelago in the Best In Its Category from the Mullineux’s winery was declared Atlantic, this wine is made from San Francisco International 2014 Winery of the Year by South PEAR, ORANGE, HONEY, the spectacular volcanic terroir YEASTY NOTES, FLORAL NOTES, Wine Competition. GREEN APPLE, PEAR, WHITE FLOWERS Africa’s main wine guide, Platter. of the island of Lanzarote. GREEN APPLE, STARFRUIT GRAPE: CHARDONNAY HAZELNUT, MARZIPAN GRAPE: CHENIN BLANC ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPE: MALVOISIE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE SALMON BLANQUETTE SHRIMP-AND-SCALLOP SKEWERS SUGAR LEVEL – DRY CHICKEN BREASTS WITH TAPENADE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY MINI-CASSEROLES SUGAR LEVEL – DRY 40BODY – MEDIUM > 00BODY – MEDIUM > 40BODY – MEDIUM > PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS 6 009801 291444 WOOD – UNOAKED 8 437002 995010 WOOD – UNOAKED 0 087356 010624 WOOD – EVIDENT

UNITED STATES 2020 UNITED STATES 2019 VINA ROBLES RED4 2012, CONUNDRUM 2013, UNITED STATES 2019 PASO ROBLES CENTRAL COAST DEEP PURPLE LODI ZINFANDEL $23.00 11882336, 750 ML $24.95 12095570, 750 ML 2013, CALIFORNIA Winner of a double gold medal Building on the success of its $19.25 12941238, 750 ML for this vintage at the 2015 outside-the-box white blend The uniquely styled label created San Francisco Chronicle Wine that’s made to be the opposite by Bob Johnson, a well-known Competition, this red blend of California’s varietal wines, illustrator in the world of wine, was a real hit with the judges. Conundrum has a red version is reminiscent of the 1960s BLACKBERRY, DRIED CRANBERRY, Exuberant and charming. GRAPE, CHERRY, COCOA, bursting with flamboyant fruit. PLUM, RIPE RED FRUIT, VIOLETS, PEACH, ROASTED NOTES psychedelic culture. Very trippy! GRAPES: PETITE SIRAH, SYRAH, TART CANDY, PASTRY GRAPES: PETITE SIRAH, ZINFANDEL, SMOKE, BAKING SPICE, OAK GRAPE: ZINFANDEL ACIDITY – MODERATE GRENACHE, MOURVÈDRE ACIDITY – LIVELY CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MUSCAT ACIDITY – DISCREET BARBECUED CHICKEN WINGS SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BEEF BURGERS WITH BLUE CHEESE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY CONFIT-DUCK-AND-FIG BITES SUGAR LEVEL – OFF DRY 30BODY – MEDIUM > 80BODY – MEDIUM > 20BODY – MEDIUM > PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS 0 857151 003103 WOOD – EVIDENT 0 834024 001848 WOOD – EVIDENT 0 017224 760122 WOOD – SUBTLE

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P29-34_CEL_NouvelArrivage_Automne2016_AN_v2.indd 29 2016-08-15 14:08 2022 2019-2024 2021 SOUTH AFRICA ITALY UNITED STATES SPICE ROUTE CHAKALAKA 2013, TENUTA AQUINAS CABERNET SAUVIGNON WESTERN CAPE IL POGGIONE 2014, 2013, NAPA VALLEY $27.25 11385452, 750 ML ROSSO DI MONTALCINO $26.35 11901832, 750 ML Like a perfect combination $25.70 12921974, 750 ML With its generous notes of of spices, this wine is meant Rossos – from Montalcino – vanilla, coffee, blackcurrant to harmoniously bring together are more accessible, making jam and pastry, this modern many different vineyards them a good introduction to and powerful Cabernet and varieties. The profiles Brunellos, the appellation’s top Sauvignon will be perfect with complement each other and wine. Don’t hesitate to give a nice serving of grilled meat – make the wine shine. this one a good decanting. CHERRY, LICORICE, BAKING cooked rare. BLACKCURRANT, BLACK FRUIT, BLACK FRUIT, CHOCOLATE, SPICE, OLIVES, COFFEE EUCALYPTUS, COCOA, TOBACCO GRAPES: SYRAH, MOURVÈDRE, COCONUT, VANILLA GRAPE: SANGIOVESE GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON PETITE SIRAH, CARIGNAN, ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE WILD-BOAR SAUSAGES GRILLED FLANK STEAK WITH GRENACHE, TANNAT WITH WILD MUSHROOMS SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BLACKCURRANT JELLY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY COCOA-MARINATED FLANK STEAK SUGAR LEVEL – DRY 10BODY – FULL > 70BODY – FULL > 00BODY – FULL > PALATE – STRUCTURED PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS 8 011074 300011 WOOD – EVIDENT 0 833302 001037 WOOD – EVIDENT 6 009624 510210 WOOD – PRONOUNCED

P. 15 SPAIN 2022 PALACIOS REMONDO, LA MONTESA RESERVA UNITED STATES 2021 ESPECIAL 2010, RIOJA UNITED STATES 2021 PINOT NOIR LAKE SONOMA 2014, $45.00 12916438, 750 ML CAYMUS ZINFANDEL 2014, SONOMA COAST Visionary winemaker Jose NAPA VALLEY $29.95 12901877, 750 ML Palacios Remondo sent his sons $50.00 00282459, 750 ML Slightly cooler than Napa to the best oenology schools A name that doesn’t need any Valley, its easterly neighbour, to ensure the family estate’s more introductions. Charming Sonoma has many sectors that continuing success – pretty and accessible, Chuck Wagner’s are perfectly suited for varieties much a sure thing once Alvaro Zinfandel is just perfect with that need to show finesse like STRAWBERRY JAM, took over in 2000. CHERRY, LICORICE, BUTTER, grilled meats or a main course PLUM JAM, COCONUT, Pinot Noir. BARLEY SUGAR, PINE TREE GRAPES: GRENACHE, TEMPRANILLO, SANDALWOOD, COCOA, CEDAR of braised beef. CEDAR, PASTRY GRAPE: PINOT NOIR ACIDITY – MODERATE MAZUELO, GRACIANO ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPE: ZINFANDEL ACIDITY – MODERATE BEEF-AND-BEET CARPACCIO SUGAR LEVEL – OFF DRY ROASTED CHICKEN WITH ROSEMARY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY TUSCAN-STYLE RIB STEAK SUGAR LEVEL – DRY 70BODY – MEDIUM > 00BODY – FULL > 10BODY – FULL > PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS 0 729188 000007 WOOD – EVIDENT 8 411580 035900 WOOD – EVIDENT 0 017224 730101 WOOD – EVIDENT

SOURCES CITED V: Vinous (out of 100) WA: Wine Advocate, Robert Parker (out of 100) P. 27 UNITED KINGDOM P. 26 UNITED KINGDOM AUCHENTOSHAN ICON LEGEND AMERICAN OAK LOWLAND BROCKMANS WHITE WINE RED WINE BLACKBERRY-FLAVOURED SCOTCH WHISKY SINGLE MALT DRY GIN $60.00 12401477, 750 ML drink now trough $47.00 12502382, 750 ML Aging in American oak barrels drink now the year indicated Besides the traditional juniper previously used for bourbon berry, this gin shows intense provides this Scotch with a rich hold until the year indicated aromas of black fruit (blueberry and suave expression, including *The potential longevity of a wine when stored in the proper conditions. and blackberry) as well as some distinctive and round Note that this is simply a guideline, with the exceptions – and they are licorice, orange peel and lemon. notes of vanilla and coconut. numerous! – proving the rule. 40 > 10 >

Favourite 5 010296 169164 0 859141 004091

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P29-34_CEL_NouvelArrivage_Automne2016_AN.indd 30 2016-08-10 13:37 P. 13 PORTUGAL HERDADE DO ESPORAO 2015, ALENTEJO $18.95 12952973, 750 ML A great example of the typical SCAN TO BUY character of Verdelho (not to be confused with the Spanish Verdejo), this cuvée shows great aromatic intensity and LEMON, TROPICAL FRUIT, exemplary freshness. CHALK GRAPE: VERDELHO ACIDITY – MODERATE OCTOBER 13 ZUCCHINI-AND-FETA BALLS SUGAR LEVEL – DRY 30BODY – MEDIUM > ONLINE PRESALE FROM OCTOBER 6 PALATE – GENEROUS 5 601989 991683 WOOD – UNOAKED

WA 92 WA 92

P. 18 2020 P. 20 FRANCE P. 19 SOUTH AFRICA 2019 DOMAINE RIJCKAERT SPAIN 2020 RAATS, CHENIN BLANC 2014, LES SARRES 2013, BODEGAS ADRIÁ, STELLENBOSCH CÔTES DU JURA VEGA MONTÁN 2010, BIERZO $21.85 12783524, 750 ML $28.75 12951356, 750 ML $19.95 12932972, 750 ML Specializing in wines made Praised for its wines from The Mencía grape has been from Cabernet Franc and Chenin the Mâcon region of Burgundy experiencing a renaissance, Blanc, this family winery is on and the Jura, this estate in particular in the Bierzo the rise in Stellenbosch, and brilliantly showcases Savagnin, appellation of northwestern this cuvée shows that their the emblematic grape of Jura, Spain, thanks to its fruity, floral success is far from a flash in APPLE, LEMON, PINEAPPLE, in this single-vineyard wine PEAR, BUTTER, FLORAL and spicy profile with a good RIPE CHERRY, IRON/BLOOD, the pan. A superb wine. CHAMOMILE, SALINE NOTES from the region of Les Sarres. NOTES, SALINE NOTES dose of elegance. BAKING SPICE GRAPE: CHENIN BLANC ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPE: SAVAGNIN ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPE: MENCÍA ACIDITY – MODERATE SMOKED-SALMON APPETIZERS SUGAR LEVEL – DRY RABBIT WITH CIDER SUGAR LEVEL – DRY ROASTED LEG OF LAMB SUGAR LEVEL – DRY 40BODY – MEDIUM > 60BODY – MEDIUM > 30BODY – >MEDIUM PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS 6 009800 497014 WOOD – UNOAKED 3 760149 570266 WOOD – EVIDENT 8 422972 010153 WOOD – EVIDENT

WA 91

2022 2022 ITALY P. 21 PORTUGAL CANTINE DEL NOTAIO L’ATTO SOUTH AFRICA 2020 FONTE DE GONÇALVINHO, 2013, BASILICATE LEEUWENKUIL, TINTA RORIZ 2010, DÃO $19.95 12941174, 750 ML CINSAULT 2015, SWARTLAND $20.15 12974531, 750 ML Cantine del Notaio has been $20.00 12976895, 750 ML Casimir and Christelle, a working in partnership with Grapes for this wine are picked Franco-Portuguese couple, Luigi Moio, a professor of at various stages of ripeness, fell under the spell of the oenology at the University adding complexity, while the Dao region and, fuelled by of Naples, in order to fully use of carbonic maceration their strong passion for wine, express the Aglianico variety’s BLACK FRUIT, PEACH, highlights the fruit. A new CHERRY, GRENADINE, decided to create their winery BAKED BLACK FRUIT, SMOKE, full potential. PINE TREE, COCOA Eldorado for Cinsault? OLIVES, SPICES from scratch. LICORICE, CHARRED WOOD GRAPE: AGLIANICO ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPE: CINSAULT ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPE: TINTA RORIZ ACIDITY – MODERATE LAMB BROCHETTES WITH MINT SUGAR LEVEL – OFF DRY DUCK TERRINE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY ROASTED RACK OF VENISON SUGAR LEVEL – DRY 20BODY – FULL > 30BODY – MEDIUM > 30BODY – MEDIUM > PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED 8 032621 221412 WOOD – EVIDENT 6 002039 010603 WOOD – UNOAKED 5 600202 756153 WOOD – EVIDENT

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GREECE 2021 ALPHA ESTATE HEDGEHOG, 2020 ITALY SLOVAKIA 2019 XINOMAVRO 2010, AMYNTEO CARMENÈRE PIU INAMA 2013, CHÂTEAU ZUMBERG, $20.50 12941060, 750 ML VENETO FRANKOVKA MODRA 2014, Even easier to love than to $22.70 11389074, 750 ML VINO ZO SLOVENSKA pronounce, Xinomavro has been While Chile confused it with $22.90 12941220, 750 ML a very successful grape variety Merlot, Northern Italian wine Previously known for high in Greece. Its freshness and growers still face a certain yields and low quality, Slovakia aromatic complexity, as well confusion between Carmenère seems to be making substantial as its great tannins, can make and Cabernet Franc. Here, changes in its vineyards, as it quite seductive. FIGS, PRUNES, TOBACCO, it shows a generous and BLACKBERRY, RED BELL demonstrated by this tasty BLACKBERRY, RASPBERRY, GRAPE: XINOMAVRO OLIVES structured expression. PEPPER, VIOLETS, SPICES and satisfying Blaufränkisch. BLACK CHERRY, COCOA ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPES: CARMENÈRE, MERLOT ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPE: BLAUFRÄNKISCH ACIDITY – MODERATE BEEF TARTARE WITH COCOA AND HOT PEPPERS SUGAR LEVEL – DRY STEAK WITH RED-PEPPER CONFIT SUGAR LEVEL – DRY MARINATED PORK TENDERLOIN SUGAR LEVEL – DRY 30BODY – MEDIUM > 00BODY – MEDIUM > 70BODY – MEDIUM > PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS 5 205243 310533 WOOD – EVIDENT 8 029001 000330 WOOD – SUBTLE 8 588000 522217 WOOD – SUBTLE

2018 2019 P. 22 2020 FRANCE UNITED STATES ITALY PASCAL & ANNICK QUENARD, CAIDEN’S VINEYARDS TAURINO 7, CEPPO 2011, LA SAUVAGE 2015, SAVOIE BLOCK NINE 2014, CALIFORNIA SALENTO $23.70 12982451, 750 ML $23.95 12941043, 750 ML $25.05 10884671, 750 ML This winery makes only one The Taurino family was among Warning… This is a wine with wine, but does it with complete the pioneers who focused high levels of drinkability! focus. The Wine Advocate team on quality and thereby This lovely wine, made from the included it in its Best Value contributed to the renaissance Savoie variety called Mondeuse, Wines (under $25) for California of winemaking in Puglia, the will seduce anyone who loves Pinot Noir: a nice tribute to BLACK CHERRY, CAMPHOR, “heel” of Italy’s “boot”. DRIED FRUIT, BAKING SPICE, fruity, easygoing reds with RED BERRIES, VIOLETS, a touch of spice. their work. VANILLA GRAPE: PRIMITIVO LICORICE, TOBACCO, COCOA PEPPER ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPE: MONDEUSE ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPE: PINOT NOIR STEAK WITH GRILLED TUNA WITH TOMATO SALSA SUGAR LEVEL – DRY MONTREAL-STYLE SPICES SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SPICED RACK OF PORK SUGAR LEVEL – DRY 00BODY – MEDIUM > 70BODY – FULL > 50BODY – MEDIUM > PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS 0 183491 000190 WOOD – EVIDENT 8 013417 000107 WOOD – EVIDENT 3 410080 001045 WOOD – UNOAKED

P. 24 FRANCE 2018 DOMAINE CHANZY, PINOT NOIR 2014, BOURGOGNE GUATEMALA $28.80 13002961, 750 ML PLANTATION GRAN AÑEJO, “B” (be), a new brand by RUM Domaine Chanzy, has a branding $39.00 12555548, 700 ML and an outlook that seeks A blend of rums from to identify itself with a hip, Guatemala and Belize, energetic and positive lifestyle. Plantation Gran Añejo was aged A different way of showcasing STRAWBERRY, PEONY, in bourbon barrels before being Burgundy wines! SPICES, HERBAL NOTES finished for a few months in MORE FINDS GRAPE: PINOT NOIR ACIDITY – MODERATE France, in old cognac casks IN CELLIER SPACE, GRILLED TUNA AND TOMATO SALSA SUGAR LEVEL – DRY from Maison Ferrand. 40BODY – LIGHT > 90 > ONLINE OR IN STORES PALATE – GENEROUS 3 455591 492104 WOOD – UNOAKED 3 460410 529909

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P29-34_CEL_NouvelArrivage_Automne2016_AN.indd 32 2016-08-10 13:38 V 90 FRANCE DOMAINE ANDRÉ ET MIREILLE TISSOT BRUT, CRÉMANT DU JURA $28.30 11456492, 750 ML On his biodynamically farmed family estate, Stéphane Tissot makes this magnificent Crémant, aged on lees for SCAN TO BUY 18 months. A must-buy, year in, year out – and at a great price too! RIPE APPLE, STRAW, GRAPES: CHARDONNAY, HAZELNUT, MINERAL NOTES PINOT NOIR, POULSARD ACIDITY – LIVELY CRACKERS WITH PÂTÉ OCTOBER 27 DE FOIE GRAS SUGAR LEVEL – DRY 60BODY – MEDIUM > ONLINE PRESALE FROM OCTOBER 20 PALATE – GENEROUS 3 561019 600096 WOOD – UNOAKED

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ITALY CHILE 2018 PETER ZEMMER, PINOT BIANCO CLOS DES FOUS, LOCURA 1 2013, SOUTH AFRICA PUNGGL 2014, ALTO ADIGE NEWTON JOHNSON, FÉLICITÉ VALLE CENTRAL 2015, BREEDE RIVER VALLEY $22.35 12884456, 750 ML $24.55 11927805, 750 ML $17.80 12889724, 750 ML Located in a small village in Locura (a Spanish word for The founder of this renowned Alto Adige that stays true to folly) is made by the famous estate, Dave Johnson, used its Germanic roots, this winery Clos des Fous, what four friends his wife Felicity’s name as has been very successful named their estate when they inspiration for creating a range thanks to its refined and decided to make Burgundy- of wines focusing on elegance elegant wines, a style fostered HONEYDEW, WHITE style wines in cooler parts PEACH, PEAR, BUTTER, and varietal typicity. APPLE, PEACH, ALMOND by the alpine climate. FLOWERS, APPLE of Chile. FLORAL NOTES GRAPE: CHARDONNAY ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPE: PINOT BLANC ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPE: CHARDONNAY ACIDITY – MODERATE OLIVE-PARMESAN COCKTAIL CAKE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY CHEESE FONDUE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY LINGUINE WITH CLAMS SUGAR LEVEL – DRY 90BODY – MEDIUM > 60BODY – MEDIUM > 10BODY – MEDIUM > PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS 6 006379 000249 WOOD – UNOAKED 8 032601 210016 WOOD – UNOAKED 7 804640 220001 WOOD – SUBTLE

P. 23 SOUTH AFRICA 2019 ROBERTSON WINERY, CONSTITUTION ROAD CHARDONNAY 2014, FRANCE ARGENTINA 2020 BREEDE RIVER VALLEY DOMAINE MARCEL DEISS, BODEGA DIAMANDES, $24.90 13005759, 750 ML BEBLENHEIM 2012, ALSACE PERLITA 2015, VALLE DE UCO Created in 2004 to $26.15 11544476, 750 ML $19.35 12941481, 750 ML commemorate the first Now run by Marcel’s grandson, A seductive blend of opulent ten years of democracy in Jean-Michel, and his son Malbec and spicy Syrah, this South Africa under the new Mathieu, this winery is known wine was harvested by hand constitution, this Chardonnay for its low-intervention and vinified using gravity approach. For them, good wine is opulent, with a lot of to treat the grapes as gently BLACKCURRANT, VIOLETS, personality. comes – first and foremost – BARLEY SUGAR, FRESH as possible. CANDY, BLUEBERRY, GRAPE: CHARDONNAY APPLE, CORN, BUTTER, OAK from good grapes. MUSHROOMS, APPLE, HONEY GRAPES: MALBEC, SYRAH LICORICE, PEPPER ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPE: PINOT GRIS ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE CHICKEN WITH A CREAM-AND- BEEF TENDERLOIN WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY RARE-SALMON BITES WITH HONEY SUGAR LEVEL – OFF DRY CHIMICHURRI SUGAR LEVEL – DRY 40BODY – FULL > 00BODY – MEDIUM > 90BODY – MEDIUM > PALATE – RICH PALATE – RICH PALATE – GENEROUS 6 002039 010474 WOOD – EVIDENT 3 568212 154180 WOOD – UNOAKED 7 798141 180349 WOOD – EVIDENT

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P29-34_CEL_NouvelArrivage_Automne2016_AN_v2.indd 33 2016-08-15 14:09 ARGENTINA 2020 2021 2019 UNITED STATES BODEGA DEL DESIERTO, SOUTH AFRICA DOMAINE LOUBEJAC, PINOT DESIERTO 25 2014, PATAGONIA PAUL CLUVER, VILLAGE 2014, NOIR 2014, WILLAMETTE VALLEY $20.75 11156932, 750 ML WESTERN CAPE $26.00 12875533, 750 ML Argentina has more to offer $21.95 12890856, 750 ML Located south of Portland and than just Malbec. Located south Located southeast of Cape only a few dozen kilometres of Mendoza, the Patagonia Town, the Elgin region is well from the Pacific Ocean, this vineyards are perfect for grape suited to cultivating aromatic winery makes the best of a varieties requiring cooler and cool climate varieties temperate climate – perfect temperatures to show their thanks to its altitude and CHERRY IN EAU-DE-VIE, for making wine from CHERRY, PLUM, HERBAL elegance. CHERRY, CEDAR, SPICES proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. MOCHA, PLUM traditional Burgundy varieties. NOTES, SPICES GRAPE: CABERNET FRANC ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPE: PINOT NOIR ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPE: PINOT NOIR ACIDITY – MODERATE BEEF BOURGUIGNON SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BEEF BRAISED IN RED WINE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY ROASTED CHICKEN WITH HERBS SUGAR LEVEL – DRY 80BODY – MEDIUM > 70BODY – MEDIUM > 40BODY – MEDIUM > PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS 7 798126 790228 WOOD – EVIDENT 6 009609 150417 WOOD – EVIDENT 0 858902 004004 WOOD – EVIDENT

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2020 CHILE CHILE LOUIS-ANTOINE LUYT, TABALI, TALINAY 2014, NEW ZEALAND 2020 VALLE DEL LIMARI LEGNO DURO 2014, CHILE QUARTZ REEF, SHED 6 2014, $27.05 12976908, 750 ML $27.85 12940972, 750 ML CENTRAL OTAGO Three years in a row, this After studying wine in Beaune $32.25 12902167, 750 ML wine was named best Chilean and taking many trips back and Shed 6, named after the cellar Pinot Noir by Descorchados, forth between France and Chile, where the wines are made at a reference guide for South Louis-Antoine Luyt decided Quartz Reef, shows all the potential American wines. Indeed, it to make natural wine in the of Pinot Noir in the Central Otago is simply delicious and sure RASPBERRY, CHERRY, Southern Hemisphere. He’s an RED FRUIT, VIOLETS, region, an outright promised land BLACK CHERRY, COCOA, DRIED to please. FLOWERS, SPICES atypical, but popular, vigneron. PEPPER, WET EARTH for this variety. HERBS, DRIED FLOWERS ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPE: PINOT NOIR ACIDITY – MODERATE GRAPE: CARIGNAN GRAPE: PINOT NOIR GRILLED VEAL RIB STEAK SUGAR LEVEL – DRY CHINESE FONDUE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY PORK CHOPS WITH BAKING SPICE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY 40BODY – MEDIUM > 10BODY – MEDIUM > 30BODY – MEDIUM > PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS 7 808734 201204 WOOD – SUBTLE 2 561141 081221 WOOD – UNOAKED 9 421002 706003 WOOD – SUBTLE

SPAIN 2026 BODEGA ALEJANDRO FERNÁNDEZ, TINTO PESQUERA 2013, RIBERA DEL DUERO P. 27 UNITED KINGDOM $32.75 10273109, 750 ML HIGHLAND PARK 12 YEARS Yet another brilliant wine ORKNEY SINGLE MALT from Alejandro Fernández, SCOTCH WHISKY who contributed so much in $80.00 00204560, 750 ML making Ribera del Duero one Located in the Orkneys, a of the top regions in Spain, PLUM, LICORICE, windswept archipelago located notably through this estate – LEATHER, TOBACCO, north of Scotland, this distillery a favourite in Quebec. SMOKE, RESIN, OAK was established in 1798 and is MORE FINDS GRAPE: TEMPRANILLO ACIDITY – MODERATE at the top of the list for the most IN CELLIER SPACE, LAMB SHANK WITH SWEET SPICES SUGAR LEVEL – DRY demanding Scotch connoisseurs. 40BODY – FULL > 30 > ONLINE OR IN STORES PALATE – STRUCTURED 8 423339 924014 WOOD – SUBTLE 5 010314 066703

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