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Home , Abbuoto, Affile, Albarola, Aleatico, Ansonica, Antrodoco

282 WEST-

The heart of Italy is also the center of the country’s forward-thinking approaches: one was to apply DOCG to the most important quality- exports, which are Classico area and other isolated areas, such as parts of and the Colli Fiorentini, where most of the finest dominated by famous red wines from have traditionally been made, and to leave the rest as DOC the tiny Tuscan hills and valleys between Chianti; the other was to grant DOCG status to the best 10 percent, regardless of origin. Either would have made Chianti a and the - border. success. But the biggest Chianti producers had more political clout than the best producers, and the new regulations gave DOCG (TOSCANA) status to the whole area and all Chianti wines, regardless of their The home of traditional , Tuscany has also been the origin or quality. main focus of experimentation. Its powerful red Vino Nobile di It is true that the Toscano, a localized clone, is an was Italy’s first DOCG, and has been followed by intrinsically high-class Trebbiano and, indeed, it can make some , Chianti, Carmignano, and di charming wines, but it is not a fine-wine . Currently, . But not all of its finest wines bear these famous Tuscany has no white-wine sister for its red Sangiovese grape. appellations, a fact recognized by the Tuscan producers Unfortunately, its best dry themselves, who, on the one hand, sought the ideal DOCG white-wine grape so far has Chianti including Carmignano (1), solution for Chianti, while on the other began to invest in been , a variety Rufina (2), Colli Fiorentini (3), (4), Colline Pisani (5), premium wines that were not restricted by the DOC. It was that excels in almost every Vernaccia di San Gimignano (6) the uncompromising quality of their Super-Tuscan wines that half-decent wine area. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (7) encouraged premium vini da tavola throughout the rest of Italy. might be Tuscany’s Chianti Classico

Unfortunately, they were less successful white-wine grape of the future, Bianco di Pitigliano with the DOCG of Chianti. The although it is really a Sardinian a z Tuscans had two sensible, grape and currently mostly n E Pontrémoli Castelnovo 2017 né Monti Pavullo nel Frignano 2121 12 Vergato Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone

64 o n 1945 e Sarzana R Castelnuovo di Garfagnana Borgo Rocca San Montecarlo Bianco Bagni di San Lorenzo 67 Casciano Val di Cornia Pistóia Prato S ieve Bagno di Lucca Firenze Romagna Val d’Arbia 11 1 2 67 3 Bianco Vergine della 4 San Sansepolcro Colli Perugini LIVORNO Giovanni Cagli Valdarno 462 5 1702 Colli Amerini Poggibonsi Città di 6 Monte San Castello Colli Martani C a Savino e s 16 cin l a E Cecina 8 13 TOSCANA 4 Montalbano Monteroni 9 d’Arbia PERÚGIA nia Nocera Aretini Cor MontepulcianoLago Massa 7 17 Umbra Trasimeno 18 75 Colli Senesi

Marittima 209 10 Roccastrada 1 UMBRIA Brunello di Montalcino Piombino 1738 Città della 3 Follónica e Candia dei Colli Apuani 223 n 11 Pieve o Portoferráio r Bianco della Val di Nievole 630 b Arcidosso Nòrcia m O a Bianco Pisano di San Torpe 12 Grosseto r Acquasanta e 13 Acquapendente N Terme Aleatico di Gradoli Elba 14 Orvieto Acquasparta Manciano 71 Morellino di Scansano Lago di 79 2623 8 Montescudaio 15 434 Bolsena Porto San Orbetello Orte Antrodoco Stéfano L’Aquila 9 Tuscania 17 a rt Civita T 24 10 Monteri di Massa Marittima a Castellana u Montalto M r Giglio a di Castro n Moscadello di Montalcino o For detail see next page 11 2487 12 Elba Lago di Avezzano 13 Maremma Toscana Bracciano Tívoli Pescina 16 24 Subiaco 14 Slovana 2241 666 Roma Castel di Sangro 15 1 Anagni 16 Colli del Trasimeno Albano in Sora Laziale L Sa 17 Colli Altotiberini cco 148 18 Sezze Venafro see also WEST-CENTRAL ITALY, p.263 See page opposite Latina 1090 The hills of this area provide the best sites for Provincia boundary , tempering the summer’s heat and Height above sea level (meters) providing a variety of microclimates suitable 0 10 20 30 40 50 miles for classic French grape varieties as well as 0 20 40 60 80 km traditional Italian ones. WEST-CENTRAL ITALY 283

FACTORS AFFECTING TASTE AND QUALITY

LOCATION super-Tuscan wines still exist, and HLocated between the Apennines always will, but top-performing to the north and east and the producers are seeking clones, to the west. , and techniques to CLIMATE maximize the fruit and accessibility F of their own noble . Summers are long and fairly A traditional speciality is the dry and winters are less severe than sweet, white , which is in . Heat and lack of made from passito grapes dried on rain can be a problem throughout straw mats in attics. It is aged for the area during the growing season. up to six years, often in a type of ASPECT system. EVineyards are usually sited on GRAPE VARIETIES hillsides for good drainage and GPrimary varieties: Sangiovese exposure to the sun. Deliberate use (syn. Brunello, Morellino,Prugnolo, is made of altitude to offset the Sangioveto, Tignolo, Uva Canina), heat, and black grapes grow at up , Trebbiano (syn. Procanico) to 1,800 feet (550 meters) and white Secondary varieties: Abbuoto, grapes at up to 2,275 feet (700 , Albana (syn. , meters). The higher the vines, the but not ), Albarola, longer the ripening season and the Aleatico, , Bellone, greater the acidity of the grapes. Bombino, , TRADITION AND INNOVATION SOIL , This tranquil landscape appears to have remained unchanged for many DThese are very complex soils (syn. in Umbria), centuries, but, while Tuscan winemaking is steeped in tradition, the area is with gravel, limestone, and clay (syn. Uva di Spagna), now also experimenting with different grape varieties and barrique aging. outcrops predominating. In Tuscany Cesanese, Chardonnay, , a rocky, schistose soil, known in , , Grechetto restricted to Tuscany’s coastal areas. It is time someone managed (syn. Greco, Pulciano), Inzolia some localities as galestro, covers to rekindle an ancient, all-but-extinct Tuscan white grape and most of the best vineyards. (syn. ), Mammolo, , Montepulciano, Moscadelletto, rescue it with commercial success, much as the piemontesi did AND (syn. Moscadello, Moscato), with and, as I suspect, they will next try with Timorasso. JVINIFICATION Nero Buono di Cori, After much experimentation, (syn. Pinot Bianco), BIRTH OF THE SUPER-TUSCANS particularly in Tuscany, with classic (syn. Pinot Grigio), , French grapes, the trend recently , , Ten years ago the largest number of exceptional Tuscan wines has been to develop the full Sémillon, , , were the then relatively new barrique-aged Super-Tuscans. Their potential of native varieties. Vermentino, Vernaccia, story began in 1948 when the now famous Sassicaia wine was Many stunning Cabernet-influenced, produced for the first time by Incisa della Rochetta using Cabernet Sauvignon vines reputedly from Château Lafite-Rothschild. This ROME AND ITS ENVIRONS, see also opposite was an unashamed attempt to produce a top-quality The recent proliferation of appellations in the hills surrounding from Bordeaux’s greatest grape variety, decades before the idea Italy’s capital are evidence of a wine regime gone mad— became old hat in the wine world. It became so successful that in this country’s wines need cohesion, not further diversity. the wake of the 1971 , a new red called was

rta a T M Civita evere Bianco Castellana Tarquinia 1 T u ra n Lago di 4 o Bracciano Montecompatri Colonna

Civitavecchia Bracciano Monterotondo Marino A n i Tívoli e 12 n Colli Albani e 24 Subiaco Colli Lanuvini Roma Aprilia

Valmontone Cesanese di Fiumicino 1 Anagni Cesanese del Piglio Velletri Sa Cesanese di cco 148 VERNACCIA VINES Provincia boundary Sezze IN FALL Latina Height above sea level (meters) These vines grow exclusively Anzio around the medieval Tuscan 1090 0 10 20 miles town of San Gimignano, whose 0 20 40 km impressive towers can be seen Terracina here in the distance. When it comes from good producers, Formia the white Vernaccia can be a deliciously crisp, fruity dry wine. 284 ITALY

breed of Super-Tuscan emerged; first as Sangiovese-dominated AVERAGE ANNUAL PRODUCTION blends, such as Tignanello, then as pure Sangiovese wines. Now that the Goria Law has opened the door for Italy’s greatest vini REGION DOC PRODUCTION TOTAL PRODUCTION da tavola, many who had resorted to making wines outside Tuscany 11 million cases 44 million cases the DOC system are using their experience in remolding the (1 million hl) (4 million hl) Latium 6 million cases 67 million cases Sangiovese to reestablish the great old names of the past (Chianti, (540,000 hl) (6 million hl) Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano) by making Umbria 2 million cases 18 million cases wines that are complete without the help of foreign varieties. (165,000 hl) (1.7 million hl) UMBRIA Percentage of total Italian production: Latium, 7.8%; Tuscany, 5.2%; Orvieto is Umbria’s best-known and best-forgotten wine. Next to Umbria, 2.2%. Frascati and , it is the most used and abused name in the world’s Italian restaurants. While there are a few good Orvieto introduced by Piero with a Sangiovese base and 20 percent wines, and tiny amounts of truly exciting muffato (a lusciously Cabernet Sauvignon, as a compromise between Tuscany and sweet botrytized version), they are in a lamentable minority. One Bordeaux. Although had used Cabernet Sauvignon of Umbria’s few deservedly famous names is Lungarotti Rubesco in its Nipozzano Chianti for over a century and it grew in the Torgiano, whose reputation led to the Torgiano DOC and, more Carmignano area in the 18th century, nobody had truly appreciated recently, to DOCG status for Torgiano Riserva. Lungarotti also the harmony that could be achieved between the two grapes until leads in the production of Umbria’s excellent new-wave wines. Tignanello appeared. The blend was akin to the natural balance These use various grapes, both native and French, and are made of Cabernet and Merlot, only the Cabernet added weight to the in various styles, although nearly always aged in new- barriques. Sangiovese and provided balance through a more satisfying flavor. Tignanello thus sparked off a new wave of Super-Tuscan vini da LATIUM (LAZIO) tavola. However, as the numbers grew, so they became an One of Italy’s largest regions, Latium appropriately boasts one of embarrassment, as observers realized that very few of the region’s its largest-selling wines, Frascati, the Latin Liebfraumilch, and Est! greatest wines actually qualified for DOC. But at the same time, Est!! Est!!!, probably the blandest tourist wine in existence. For a many of the responsible for these French-influenced region responsible for Falernum, a classic wine of antiquity, it can Super-Tuscans were also working hard to make the Sangiovese now boast only two truly fine wines, Boncompagni Ludovisi’s stand alone. After extensive clonal and site selection, reduced yields, Rosso and Cantina Colacicchi’s Torre Ercolana, both improved viticultural practices and vinification techniques, a new innovative Cabernet-Merlot blends, which are very good.

THE APPELLATIONS OF WEST-CENTRAL ITALY

CLASSIC BRUT SPARKLING BARCO REALE DI BIANCO DI PITIGLIANO DOC WINES CARMIGNANO DOC Tuscany The best sparkling brut wines are made in Tuscany This DOC produces delicate, refreshing, dry, Tuscany by the . After Carmignano became a DOCG, this and easy-drinking Trebbiano-based white wines, tBrut di Capezzana • Falchini Brut • Villa appellation was adopted for easy-drinking, which are improved by the possible inclusion Banfi Brut Sangiovese-dominated (with a touch of of Malvasia, Grechetto, Verdello, Chardonnay, Cabernet) red wines in order to retain simple Sauvignon, Pinot Blanc, and Welschriesling. DOC status. This acted as a selection instrument A spumante version is also allowed. ALEATICO to increase and maintain quality for the superior k1–2 years Tuscany denomination. See also Carmignano DOC and tLa Stellata These are rare, rich, sweet red wines. Carmignano DOCG. BIANCO PISANO DI SAN BIANCO CAPENA DOC TORPÉ DOC ALEATICO DI GRADOLI DOC Latium Tuscany Latium Bianco Capena is a large DOC northeast of These dry white wines and dry or semisweet Sweet, sometimes fortified, red wines, without Rome producing dry and semisweet Trebbiano- vin santo are made from Trebbiano grown in a the reputation of the Aleatico di Puglia DOC. based white wines of modest quality. large area southeast of Pisa. BIANCO DELL’EMPOLESE DOC APRILIA DOC BIANCO VERGINE DELLA Tuscany VALDICHIANA DOC Latium This is an overrated, overpriced, and uninspiring Tuscany This DOC has two red , Merlot and dry white Trebbiano from the Empoli hills, west Sangiovese, and one white, Trebbiano, which is This DOC produces off-dry, Trebbiano-based of Florence. A passito may be sold as vin santo white wines with a bitter aftertaste. The best uninspiring. The washed-out flavors indicate under the same denomination. that official yields are far too high. have a more delicate, floral fragrance. k BIANCO DELLA VAL DI 1–2 years t NIEVOLE or BIANCO DELLA Poliziano Umbria VALDINIEVOLE DOC BOLGHERI DOC Assisi produces some soft, satisfying red, and Tuscany Tuscany fresh, easy-drinking white wines. Dry, slightly frizzante white wines and soft, white Until recently this was a relatively anonymous, tSasso Rosso • Fratelli • Sportoletti • Tili vin santo, made primarily from Trebbiano grapes. pleasant, but hardly exciting DOC, producing WEST-CENTRAL ITALY 285 delicate, dry whites and dry, slightly scented, Carnasciale • Tenuta dell’ CESANESE Sangiovese rosato. Reds were ignored, even (Ornellaia) Latium though it was home to Sassicaia, one of Italy’s Latium Cantina Colacicchi (Torre Ercolana), greatest wines. Now that reds are allowed, Fiorano Rosso, Colle Picchioni (Vigna This local black grape variety makes medium- Sassicaia has its own subappellation, and two del Vassello) bodied red wines of no special quality in all whites (Sauvignon and Vermentino) and styles from dry to sweet, and still to sparkling. CABERNET-SANGIOVESE a pink vin santo, Occhio di Pernice, have been CESANESE DEL PIGLIO or added. Sassicaia will surely be upgraded to full BLENDS DOCG status shortly, and will probably leave PIGLIO DOC Tuscany behind a much healthier, better-known Bolgheri Latium Most contain at least 80 percent Cabernet DOC with, hopefully, a number of aspiring new This DOC covers a complicated range of wines aiming to replicate its success. Look out Sauvignon, 20 percent Sangiovese, and are the antithesis of the rising tide of Sangiovese blends. basically simple red wines, from Cesanese for Piero Antinori’s new Vermentino, which grapes grown in a hilly area southeast of Rome. t promises to be Tuscany’s first great Antinori (Solaia) • Tenuta di Bossi The styles include bone-dry, off-dry, medium- from a native variety, and for established wines, (Mazzaferrata) • Castellare di Castellina dry, semisweet, and sweet, and may be still, such as Lodovico Antinori’s Ornellaia. (Coniale di Castellare) • Castello di frizzantino, frizzante, or spumante. k1–3 years (white), 3–7 years (most reds), Gabbiano (R e R) • Lungarotti (San Giorgio) 8–25 years (Sassicaia and vin santo) • Sette Ponti (Oreno) • Tenuta CESANESE DI AFFILE or dell’Ornellaia (Le Volte) • Castello di tAntinori (Guado al Tasso) • Angelo Gaja Querceto (Il Querciolaia) • Poliziano (Le AFFILE DOC (Ca’ Marcanda Camarcanda) • Le Macchiola Stanze) • Castello dei Rampolla (Sammarco, Latium (Paleo) • Colle Massari (Grattamacco) • D’Alceo) • Rocca delle Macie (Roccato) Enrico Santini • Michele Satta • Tenuta This DOC produces the same styles as Cesanese del Piglio from a neighboring area. dell’Ornellaia • CANAIOLO (especially Sassicaia) Tuscany CESANESE DI OLEVANO BRUNELLO DI This is a native Tuscan grape, which is capable ROMANO or OLEVANO MONTALCINO DOCG of soft, seductively fruity red wines. ROMANO DOC Tuscany CANDIA DEI COLLI Latium One of Italy’s most prestigious wines, made APUANI DOC Much smaller than the previous two nearby from Brunello, a localized clone of Sangiovese. Cesanese DOCs, but covering the same styles. Many relatively unknown producers offer classic Tuscany wines. The idea is that the wines should be so Delicate, slightly aromatic, dry or semisweet CHARDONNAY thick with harsh tannins that they must be left whites from Vermentino and Albarola grapes. Tuscany and Umbria for at least 20 years. If they are ripe skin tannins and there is enough fruit, this can be a formula CARMIGNANO DOC The great, if ubiquitous, Chardonnay first squeezed into the official wines of Tuscany for a wine of classic stature. But too many are Tuscany macerated for too long and are not destemmed, when it was adopted by the Pomino DOC, but leaving the tannins in even the most expensive Since Carmignano achieved DOCG status, the the best renditions are still vini da tavola. In wines incapable of softening. The producers DOC has been used for rosato, vin santo, and Umbria, although there are only a few great below make wines requiring at least 10 years’ vin santo, called Occhio di Pernice (even Chardonnay wines, it has great potential in the maturation, but packed with fruit that develops though these styles were not allowed before the region, whether in the pure form, as made by into layers of complex, smoky-spicy, plummy- upgrading). The declassified Carmignano reds Lungarotti, or blended with a little Grechetto, fruit flavors. Look out for new Frescobaldi- can now be sold as Barco Reale di Carmignano. as in the case of Antinori’s Cervaro della Sala. Mondavi wines from the Solaria estate. CARMIGNANO DOCG tTuscany Castello di Ama (Colline di Ama) k10–25 years • Caparzo (Le Grance) • Villa Banfi Tuscany (Fontanelle) • Felsina Berardenga (I Sistri) tAltesino, Tenuta di Argiano • Villa Banfi • Isole e Olena • Ruffino (Cabreo Vigneto (especially Poggio all’Oro) • Fattoria dei Only traditional red Carmignano from this tiny la Pietra) Barbi (Vigna del Fiore) • Campogiovanni • appellation west of Florence may claim DOCG Tenuta Caparzo • Tenuta Carlina (La status. Other wines are classified as either Umbria Antinori Castello della Sala (Cervaro Torgata) • Casanova di Neri • Case Basse • Carmignano DOC or Barco Reale di Carmignano della Sala) • Lungarotti (Vigna I Palazzi) Castelgiocondo • Castello Romitorio • DOC. This DOCG is made from 45 to 65 Cerbaiona • Col d’Orcia • Conti Costanti percent Sangiovese, 10 to 20 percent Canaiolo CHIANTI & CHIANTI Frescobaldi • Eredi Fuligni • Fanti-La Nero, 6 to 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 10 to CLASSICO DOCG 20 percent Trebbiano, Canaiolo Bianco or Palazzetta Fanti-San Filippo • Lisini • Tuscany Mastrojanni • Pertimali • Podere Salicutti Malvasia, and up to 5 percent Mammolo or • La Poderina (Poggio Banale) • Poggio Colorino. The result is similar to medium-bodied Antico Tenuta Il Poggione • Salvioni-La Chianti, but with less acidity, which, with its Cerbaiola • Tenuta Silvio Nardi (Manachiara) Cabernet content, gives a chocolaty-finesse to • Siro Pacenti • Solaria-Cencioni • Talenti the fruit. See also Carmignano DOC and Barco • Uccelliera • Val di Suga Reale di Carmignano DOC. k4–10 years CABERNET SAUVIGNON tFattoria di Ambra • di Artimino • Fattoria Tuscany di Bacchereto • Contini Bonacossi (Villa di Ideally suited to the Tuscan soil and climate. Capezzana, Villa di Trefiano) • Fattoria Il Poggiolo • Piaggia tVilla Banfi (Tavernelle) • Villa Cafaggio (Cortaccio) • Frescobaldi (Mormoreto) • CASTELLI ROMANI Isole e Olena • Monsanto (Nemo) • Fattoria di Nozzole (Il Pareto) • Poliziano (Le Latium Stanze) • Castello di Querceto (Cignale) Castelli Romani are rarely exciting, dry and When Chianti was granted DOCG status, its semisweet white, red, and rosé wines. CABERNET-MERLOT yields were reduced, the amount of white grapes allowed in Chianti Classico was cut, and West-central Italy CERVETERI DOC up to 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon was Cabernet-Merlot is a classic bordelais blend that Latium permitted in the blend. However, the DOCG is best suited to Tuscany. Rustic Sangiovese-based reds, dry and was applied to the entire Chianti production tTuscany Il Paradis (Saxa Calida) • Villa di semisweet Trebbiano-Malvasia white wines of area and thus has failed to be a guarantee of Capezzana (Ghiaie della Furba) • Podere Il decent, everyday quality. quality. Most Chianti is still garbage, albeit in a 286 ITALY cleaner, more sanitized form than it used to be. COLLI ALTOTIBERINI DOC CORI DOC The best basic Chianti, however, is full of juicy Umbria Latium cherry, raspberry, and plummy fruit flavors, which makes an enjoyable quaffer, although it An interesting DOC in the hilly upper Little-seen and rarely exciting, dry, semisweet, is not what DOCG should be about. Only the Valley area, which produces dry white wines or sweet white wines and smooth, vinous reds. finest wines of Chianti deserve DOCG status from Trebbiano and Malvasia, and firm, fruity and they are usually sold as classico (the reds from Sangiovese and Merlot. However, it is ELBA DOC original, hilly Chianti area), although Rufina the crisp, fragrant rosés from the same red Tuscany grape varieties that most people prefer. (from a small area northeast of Florence, which The range of wines from the vacation isle of should not be confused with Ruffino, the brand Elba have been expanded to include 10 types: name) and Colli Fiorentini (which bridges the COLLI AMERINI DOC Trebbiano-based dry white; Sangiovese-based Classico and Rufina areas), which are both Umbria red, and riserva red; rosato; Ansonica dell’Elba outside the classico district, also produce Dry whites from Trebbiano with the possible (dry white from the Ansonica, better known as classico-like quality. Both also have lower yields addition of Grechetto, Verdello, , and the Inzolia grape of ); Ansonica Passito than the rest of Chianti, with the exception of Malvasia, with red and rosé from Sangiovese dell’Elba; Aleatico dell’Elba; Vin Santo dell’Elba, Classico, which demands the lowest of all. plus the possibility of Montepulciano, Ciliegiolo, Vin Santo dell’Elba Occhio di Pernice; and a Whatever the industrial bottlers do to Canaiolo, Merlot, and Barbera. A dry white pure white spumante. However, these wines are continue debasing Chianti’s reputation, readers Malvasia varietal may also be produced. mostly made for tourists. must not forget that the best wines from these kIn situ only three areas rank among the greatest in the COLLI DEL TRASIMENO DOC tAcquabona world. Rufina and Colli Fiorentini are, however, Umbria just two of six subappellations collectively EST! EST!! EST!!! DI known as the Chianti Putto, which covers the A very large DOC area on the Tuscan border. peripheral areas surrounding Chianti Classico The dry and off-dry whites are ordinary, but the MONTEFIASCONE DOC itself. The other four are Colli Senesi (the largest reds, in which the bitter edge of Sangiovese is Latium and most varied, and so inconsistent that few softened with Gamay, Cilíegiolo, Malvasia, and The name is the most memorable thing about wines claim this provenance, two portions Trebbiano are more interesting. these dry or semisweet white wines made from of which are better known for Brunello di k2–5 years Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes grown around Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano); tLa Fiorita Lake Bolsena, adjacent to the Orvieto district. Colli Pisani (lightest of all Chianti); Colli Aretini Traditionally, the name dates to the 12th century, (young, lively Chianti); and Montalbano (in effect COLLI DELL’ when a fat German bishop called Johann the of Carmignano, although there CENTRALE DOC Fugger had to go to Rome for the coronation of are two of those, so maybe it is the third wine?). Henry V. In order to drink well on his journey, All Chianti other than classico must contain Tuscany he sent his majordomo ahead to visit the inns between 75 and 90 percent Sangiovese plus the The idea was fine, to provide an alternative along the route and mark those with the best possibility of 5 to 10 percent Canaiolo Nero, 5 appellation for lesser red, white, and rosé wines wine with the word “Est,” short for “Vinum est to 10 percent Trebbiano or Malvasia, and up to produced in the Chianti area and thus improve bonum.” When he arrived at Montefiascone, a maximum of 10 percent Cabernet or any other the DOCG through selection. But the name the majordomo so liked the local wine that he specified black grape varieties. This recipe hardly trips off the tongue and one might be chalked “Est! Est!! Est!!!.” Fugger must have applied to Chianti Classico until 1995, when forgiven for thinking it was agreed to by agreed with him, because once he had tasted it was changed to allow up to 100 percent producers who wanted any excuse not to use it the wine he canceled his trip and stayed in Sangiovese, which should be a good move for and so keep churning out as much Chianti as Montefiascone until his death. The truth of the those dedicated growers who are striving to get possible. Red wines may be referred to as story is uncertain, for, although a tomb in the this difficult variety right. With the amount of vermiglio, which has historical connotations village church bears Fugger’s name, whether Cabernet and other black grapes increased to 15 with Chianti, and vin santo may also be made. it contains his 800-year-old body or not is percent, this DOC is wide open to many of the unknown. As for the wine, Hugh Johnson has so-called Super-Tuscans to be classified as DOC accurately described it as an unextraordinary Chianti Classico and thereby greatly enhance white wine that trades on its oddball name. the reputation of this once great appellation. Tuscany k3–5 years (inexpensive, everyday drinking), See Colli di Luni DOC (, Northwest Italy). FALERNO or FALERNUM 4–8 years (more serious Chianti), 6–20 years COLLI LANUVINI DOC Latium (finest classico) Falernum was the famous wine of Ancient tAntinori (Peppoli) • Badia a Coltibuono • Latium Rome. Its modern equivalent is a typically dark Barone Ricasoli (Castello di Brolio) • Smooth, white wines, either dry or semisweet. and rustically rich Aglianico wine, the best of Carobbio (Riserva) • Caparsa (Doccio a which is the Villa Matilde riserva, which has Matteo Riserva) • Castellare di Castellina COLLI MARTANI DOC a full aroma and a better balance than most. (Vigna Il Poggiale) • Castellini Villa • Umbria A dry white wine is also produced. Castello di Ama • Castello di Cacchiano • Castello di • Castello Querceto • This covers four varietal wines from a large but FRASCATI DOC promising area encompassing the Montefalco Castello di Rampolla • Castello di San Polo Latium in Rosso • Castello di • Felsina DOC: Sangiovese, Trebbiano, Grechetto, and the (Rancia) • Fontodi • Isole e Olena • La single-commune Grechetto di Todi. Most Frascati used to be flabby or oxidized, Massa (Giorgio Primo) • Monsanto (Il but with recent improvements in vinification Poggio) • Podere Il Palazzino (Grosso COLLI PERUGINI DOC techniques they are now invariably fresh and clean, although many still have a bland, Sanese) • Poggerino • Poggio al Sole Umbria (Casasilia) • Riecine (Riserva)• Rocca della peardrop aroma and taste. The few exceptions Dry, slightly fruity, Trebbiano-based white come from virtually the same group of top- Macie (Roccato) • San Fabiano wines, full-bodied red wines, and dry, fresh (Cellole Riserva) • San Felice (Poggio Rosso performing producers as they did a decade ago rosé wines, primarily from Sangiovese grapes. and these wines stand out for their noticeably Riserva) • San Giusto (Gaio)• San Vicente Produced in a large area between Colli del (Riserva) • Terrabianca • Uggiano • full flavor, albeit in a fresh, zippy-zingy style. Trasimeno and the Tiber, covering six Frascati is made from Trebbiano and Malvasia Vecchie Terre di Montefili • Villa communes in the province of and Vignamaggio (Mona Lisa Riserva) grapes, primarily dry, but semisweet, sweet, and one in the . spumante styles are also made. k1–2 years COLLI ALBANI DOC COLLINE LUCCHESI DOC tColli di Catone (especially Colle Gaio— Latium Tuscany other labels include Villa Catone and Villa Soft and fruity, dry and semisweet white wines This DOC produces light, soft, Chianti-like reds Porziana) • Fontana Candida (Vigneti Santa that can be spumante. and bland, dry, Trebbiano-based whites. Teresa) • Villa Simone WEST-CENTRAL ITALY 287

GALESTRO MONTEFALCO DOCG tVilla Banfi (Vendemmia Tardiva) • Col Tuscany Umbria d’Orcia • Tenuta Il Poggione This ultraclean, light, fresh, and delicately There is a significant difference in quality fruity, dry white wine is made by a between these basic red and white wines and MOSCATO consorzio of Chianti producers to agreed the more interesting, characterful DOCG Tuscany standards. It is shortly due to receive DOC Sagrantino of Montefalco. There is just one Tuscan Moscato DOC, recognition. Moscadello di Montalcino, but a few delicately MONTEFALCO sweet rosé vini da tavola are made from the GRECHETTO or GRECO SAGRANTINO DOCG Moscato Rosa grape. It is an exquisite wine Umbria and Tuscany Umbria well worth searching out. k Clean, fresh, dry and sweet white wines with Upgraded to DOCG in 1992 and detached from Upon purchase a pleasant floral aroma that can make the basic Montefalco denomination, these tCastello di Farnatella (Rosa Rosae) interesting drinking, but seldom excel, with distinctive red wines in dry and sweet passito the exception of Bigi’s Marrano, which is styles are made exclusively from the Sagrantino ORVIETO DOC aged in oak. grape, which has the advantage of being Umbria and Latium k1–2 years grown on the best-exposed hillside vineyards The vineyards for this popular, widely exported, tBigi (Marrano) southwest of Perugia. The passito wines are the dry or semisweet, Trebbiano-based white wine most authentic in style, dating back to the 15th are primarily located in Umbria. In general, MARINO DOC century, but the dry table-wine style, which Orvieto is still disappointing, although Bigi’s hints of ripe, fresh-picked blackberries, is the Latium Vigneto Torricella remains outstanding and the best and most consistent. number of wines aspiring to a similar quality is A typically light and unexciting Trebbiano and k3–12 years Malvasia blend that may be dry, semisweet, or growing. The best semisweet, or abboccato, style spumante. Paola di Mauro’s deliciously rich and tFratelli Adanti • Antonelli • Villa Antico will include a small proportion of botrytized caramelized Colle Picchioni Oro stands out due • Arnaldo Caprai • Colpetrone grapes. Fully botrytized, or muffato, Orvieto are to its relatively high proportion of Malvasia extremely rare, but well worth tracking down as grapes, and the fact that it receives a MONTEREGIO DI MASSA they offer a fabulous combination of elegance, prefermentation on its skins MARITTIMA DOC concentration, and youthful succulence. and is matured in barriques. Tuscany kUpon purchase k1–4 years These are red, white, rosé, novello, and vin tAntinori (Campogrande) • Barberani tColle Picchioni (Oro) santo from the northern part of the province of (Castagnolo) • Bigi (Torricella) • Grosseto. A dry white Vermentino varietal wine Decugnano dei Barbi • (Terre MERLOT and a pink passito called Occhio di Pernice are Vineate) Tuscany also included within Monteregio di Massa Marittima DOC. PARRINA DOC There is only one classic Merlot produced in Tuscany Tuscany, Masseto, and although it is one of MONTESCUDAIO DOC the most expensive red wines in Italy, some The dry whites of Parrina, the most southerly of can stand shoulder to shoulder with Tuscany Tuscany’s DOCs, are the least interesting. The Pétrus, which might make it look like a bargain, A Trebbiano-based dry white wine, a soft, Sangiovese-based reds used to be merely soft, depending on your perspective. slightly fruity, Sangiovese-based red, and a vin light, and attractive, but of late have become much darker, fuller, and richer, like an oaky k3–8 years santo from the Cecina Valley. Chianti, with just a touch of vanillin sweetness k1–3 years tVilla Banfi (Mandrielle) • Tenuta on the finish, and even an occasional wisp of dell’Ornellaia (Masseto) • Petrolo tPoggio Gagliardo • Sorbaiano mint on the aftertaste. (Galatrona) MORELLINO DI k3–7 years MONTECARLO DOC SCANSANO DOC tFranca Spinola Tuscany Tuscany POMINO DOC Some interesting dry white wines are starting Tuscany to appear in this area situated between Carmignano and the coast. Although based on This wine dates back to 1716, and a Pomino the bland Trebbiano, supplementary varieties was marketed as a single- Chianti by (Roussanne, Sémillon, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi long before it was Bianco, Sauvignon Blanc, and Vermentino) may resurrected as its own DOC in 1983. The white account for 30 to 40 percent of the blend, thus is a blend of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, and allowing growers to express individual styles, Trebbiano, although Frescobaldi’s Il Benefizio from light and delicate to full and rich, either is pure Chardonnay. The red is a blend of with or without barrique-aging. Red wines may Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, be made from Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, and Cabernet Sauvignon. A semisweet vin santo Colorino, Syrah, Malvasia, Cabernet Franc, is also made in both red and white styles. Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. A white vin k1–3 years (blended white) 3–7 years (red santo and a pink Occhio di Pernice vin santo This DOC produces some good Brunello-like and Il Benefizio) are also allowed. wines from 100 percent Sangiovese, which are tFrescobaldi • Fattoria Petrognano k4–10 years thick with tasty, ripe fruit and can age well. tFattoria dell Buonamico • Carmignani k4–8 years ROSATO DELLA LEGA • Fattoria Michi • Vigna del Greppo tErik Banti • Poggio Argentiera (Capa Tosta) Tuscany • Motta • Fattoria Le Pupille Rosato della Lega are dry, Tuscan rosé wines, MONTECOMPATRI COLONNA which are produced by members of the Chianti or MONTECOMPATRI MOSCADELLO DI Classico consorzio. COLONNA DOC MONTALCINO DOC Latium Tuscany ROSSO DELLA LEGA These dry or semisweet, Malvasia-based white An ancient style of aromatic, sweet Muscat that Tuscany wines may bear the name of one or both of the was famous long before Brunello. Fortified These are reasonable, everyday red wines, above towns on the label. versions and sweet frizzante are also possible. which are produced by members of the Chianti kUpon purchase Classico consorzio. 288 ITALY

ROSSO DI MONTALCINO DOC SANGIOVESE- VERNACCIA DI SAN Tuscany CABERNET/MERLOT BLENDS GIMIGNANO DOCG This appellation is for lesser or declassified Tuscany Tuscany wines of Brunello di Montalcino or for wines Cabernet Sauvignon was originally blended with This dry white wine was Italy’s first-ever DOC, made from young vines. Although there has Sangiovese to supply fruit and accessibility so DOCG status was inevitable, even if most are been a tendency in recent years to produce within a classic fine-wine structure. bland. The best have always been deliciously deeper, darker, more concentrated wines, as a tAltesino (Alte d’Altesi) • Antinori crisp and full of vibrant fruit, which makes rule the biggest Rosso di Montalcino wines are (Tignanello) • Caparzo (Cà del Pazzo) • them well worth seeking out, but not seriously much more accessible in their youth than Castello di Bossi (Corbaia) • Colombaio (Il worthy of DOCG status if this is supposed to Brunello, which some readers may prefer. Futuro) • Fonterutoli (Siepi) • Monsanto signify one of the world’s finest wines. k5–15 years (Tinscvil) • Querciabella (Camartina) • k1–3 years tAltesino • Castelgiocondo • Conti Costanti Castello di Volpaia (Balifico) tFalchini • Panizzi • Teruzzi & Puthod • Lisini • Tenuta Il Poggione • Val di Suga SAUVIGNON VIGNANELLO DOC ROSSO DI Tuscany Latium MONTEPULCIANO DOC The Sauvignon does not really seem at home This is a new and untested DOC for red, white, Tuscany in Tuscany, although judging by the remarkable and rosé blends, plus pure Grechetto dry white This DOC is for the so-called lesser wines of success of Ornellaia’s Poggio alle Gazze, you wine in still and fully sparkling formats. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and, like Rosso wouldn’t think this was the case. di Montalcino DOC, its wines are softer and tTenuta dell’Ornellaia (Poggio alle Gazze) VIN SANTO more approachable when young. Tuscany and Umbria k5–15 years SYRAH A red or white passito wine that may be sweet, tAvignonesi • Bindella • Podere Boscarelli Tuscany semisweet, or dry. • Le Casalte • Contucci • Fattoria del Cerro This classic Rhône grape shows tremendous tAvignonesi (Occhio di Pernice) • Poliziano • Tenuta Trerose potential, but at equally tremendous prices. tFontodi (Case Vie) • Isole e Olena (L’Eremo) VINO NOBILE DI SAGRANTINO • Varramista MONTEPULCIANO DOCG Umbria Tuscany Another local variety that almost died out but TORGIANO DOC Made largely from Prugnolo Gentile, a clone has seen a revival, Sagrantino traditionally Umbria of Sangiovese, plus Canaiolo and other local makes both dry and sweet, passito reds. Some This DOC was built on the back of the grapes, including white varieties, these wines people believe its name is derived from sagra, reputation of one producer, Lungarotti (see also come from Montepulciano. Most wines used (“festival”) and suggest that the wines it yields Torgiano Riserva DOCG). As before, Torgiano to be overrated and overpriced, and a number were originally reserved for feast days. DOC covers generic blends for red and rosé still are, but a growing number of producers (Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Trebbiano, Ciliegiolo, make wines that deserve DOCG status. The SANGIOVESE or SANGIOVESE- and Montepulciano) and white (Trebbiano, best resemble a fine riserva Chianti Classico, DOMINATED Grechetto, Malvasia, and Verdello), but also but have a more exuberant character, with sparkling ( and Chardonnay) and five generous ripe-fruit flavors hinting of cherry Tuscany and Umbria varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and plum. Although just 10 years ago no one believed that Italico, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinot Noir. k6–25 years Sangiovese could stand alone, its success was k3–8 years (red), 1–5 years (white and rosé) tAvignonesi • Bindella • Podere Boscarelli merely a matter of reduced yields and a suitable t • Le Casalte • Contucci • Fattoria de Cerro barrique Lungarotti . With good, but not overstated, - • Poliziano • Tenuta Trerose aging, and bottling at the optimum moment for TORGIANO RISERVA DOCG fruit retention, Sangiovese can be rich, lush, and ZAGAROLO DOC satisfyingly complete, with a succulent, spicy- Umbria cedary oak complexity. It is commonly found in Lungarotti’s best rosso, the riserva is a model of Latium Umbria, but exceptional Sangiovese-based how all DOCG denominations should work, and This DOC has a tiny production of dry or wines are relatively rare. has deservedly been upgraded from DOC. semisweet white from Malvasia and Trebbiano tTuscany Altesino (Palazzo Altesi) • k4–20 years grapes, which are grown east of Frascati in an area more famed for its wines half a millennium Avignonesi (I Grifi) • Badia a Coltibuono tLungarotti (Sangioveto) • Calcinaia (Cerviolo Rosso) ago than it is now. • Castello di Cacchiano (RF, Rocca di VAL D’ARBIA DOC ) • Villa Cafaggio (San Martino) • Podere Capaccia (Querciagrande) Tuscany NEW IGT WINES • Castiglione (Giramonte) • Felsina A large area south of the Chianti Classico district, (Fontalloro) • Fontodi (Flaccianello della producing a dry, fruity, Trebbiano-based white The following Indicazioni Geografiche Pieve) • Isole e Olena (Cepparello) • wine boosted by Malvasia and Chardonnay, Tipiche wines were agreed to at the end Monsanto (Bianchi Vigneti di Scanni) which may be dried prior to fermentation for of 1996, yet most have still to register with • Montepeloso (Nardo) • Podere Il dry, semisweet, or sweet vin santo. consumers, or establish any consistency of Palazzino (Grosso Senese) • Poliziano style or quality: (Elegia) • Castello di Querceto (La Corte) • VAL DI CORNIA DOC tLatium Castelli Romani • Circeo Ruffino (Cabreo Il Borgo) • Guicciardini Tuscany Strozzi (Sodole) • Terrabianca (Campaccio, • Civitella d’Agliano • Colli Cimini Piano del Cipresso) • Monte Vertine (Le A large area of scattered vineyards in hills east • Colli delle • Colli Etruschi Pergole Torte) • Viticcio (Prunaio) of Piombino and south of Bolgheri. Rarely seen Viterbesi • Frusinate or del Frusinate Trebbiano dry whites and Sangiovese reds and • Lazio • Umbria Lungarotti rosés, with the subappellations of Campiglia Tuscany Alta Valle Della Greve • Colli Marittima, Piombino, San Vincenzo, and Surveto. della Toscana Centrale • Maremma SANGIOVESE WITH OTHER tRusso (Barbicone) Toscana • Orcia • Toscana or Toscano ITALIAN GRAPES • Val di Magra Tuscany VELLETRI DOC Umbria Allerona • Assisi • tCastellare di Castellina (I Sodi di San Latium • • Lago di Corbara• Narni Niccolò) • Ricasoli-Firidolfi (Geremia) Rather uninspiring, dry or semisweet white • • Umbria • Monte Vertine (Il Sodaccio) wines and reds from the Castelli Romani area.