ISSN 1853-9610

Nº90 - AUTUMN 2018 APRIL / MAY / JUNE

BestMendoza’s Underground Cellars Treasures

Restaurants Mendoza Winery Guide Maps

wine-republic.com 1 2 3 CONTENTS

News Republic Out & About Where it all Started...... 5 Bars...... 22 Permission to land...... 5 Dining out...... 24 Winery Guide...... 26 Secret Mendoza Mendoza is not just about vineyards and Maps & More Aconcagua ...... 6 Useful information...... 23 Map of Mendoza City Center...... 30 Best Cellars Map of Maipú...... 32 Mendoza’s Underground Treasures 12 Map of Chacras de Coria...... 34 Map of San Martín Park...... 34

CREDITS

Issue Autumn 2018, April-May-June ISSN 1853-9610. 10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A. Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3. Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613

Editor: Charlie O’Malley Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gómez Rus: [email protected], [email protected] Design: Circlan.com . Jona Conti: [email protected]. Contributors: Gabriela Raimondo, Mariana Gómez Rus Printer: Artes Gráficas UNION

Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic www.wine-republic.com

4 NEWS REPUBLIC

Where it All Started

Have you ever been to Paris without glimpsing the Eiffel whether it is fruit, vegetable or mountain goat. Ruca tower? You could say the same about Mendoza if you Malen winery were pioneers in this area with chef don’t have lunch in a winery. Your experience of this Lucas Bustos beating a path through the orchards and region is incomplete if you don’t sit down to multiple farms of the Andes and putting Mendocinean cuisine wines with multiple dishes in front of lush vineyards proudly next to Mendocinean wine and making it even and snow-capped mountains. It is the equivalent better. The autumn menu at Ruca Malen includes such of climbing Aconcagua in wine terms, without the happy-ever-after marriages as Chardonnay and celery, frostbite. Mendoza has taken the whole wine tasting set Champagne and mustard and Malbec and beetroot. menu concept to a whole new level and the food and Other excellent venues for a gourmet food and wine wine pairings here should have Michelin reviewers splurge are Casarena, Dominio del Plata, Monteviejo tripping over themselves. And we are not talking asado. and Andeluna. As delicious as the traditional Argentine barbecue may www.bodegarucamalen.com be, many visitors find it overcooked, greasy and heavy. A recipe for insomnia. The real gourmet news here is the flair and creativity being applied to local product,

Ruca Malen Winery

O. Fournier Winery

Permission to Land

If one winery is symbolic of the incredible boom in advanced wine making techniques, technology and the Argentine wine that has taken place over the past little understood concept of wine tourism. twenty years, it is O.Fournier in Uco Valley. With its curved concrete ramps, all glass labs, wine tanks that The winery is now back in the news as it has changed also function as pillars and a disc-shaped roof, the hands and has been taken over by the Canadian- winery looks like a space ship is hovering above the Argentine winery Finca Agostina, ensuring this super vineyards. The analogy with an alien invasion is apt futuristic winery has a super future. as the Spanish-owned winery was at the avant-garde of a foreign influx that flooded Mendoza and gave the www.ofournier.com wine industry a welcomed boost in the arm, not just in terms of investment but also in the introduction of more

5 Secret Mendoza Mendoza is not just about vineyards and Aconcagua. This vast province has many secret, secluded locations that nobody visits. Gabriela Raimondo sits down with local explorer Sergio Bongiovanni who reveals all.

Sergio Bongiovanni, or ‘Batata’ (Sweet Potato) to his His easy going ways makes one feel comfortable at once friends, is an avid fly fisherman and renowned outdoor and maybe that is why he has collected so many stories enthusiast. His passion for his surroundings and nature about Mendoza and its source of life, water. has lured him to the most dramatic and isolated parts of Mendoza province. He was born in Maipú and has worked His book ‘Lo que cuentan los ríos’ (What the Rivers Say) all his life in the province. A dentist by profession, but conveys his experiences in the countryside, the rivers and a countryman by choice; he has spent all his life in the its people. As most fly fishers, his love for the sport was great outdoors. No dentist’s chair could hold him so he passed down from his family. He started fishing when he works for the Servicio Asistencial Móvil, a mobile medical was very young at the Club de Caza y Pesca in Barrancas, assistance service that provides health care to people in Maipú. Camping in the wilderness always called out to remote locations. He is based in Lavalle, in the east of him. Now, several years later, he still carries the love to Mendoza, where the real desert begins. explore the mountains and rivers. He has ventured into areas that have seen little people throughout history as most of these breath-taking sights are only reachable by foot or horse. Lavalle, Gateway to the Desert At the book launch, a woman turned up and gifted him It is located in the north-east of the province. The a baby goat – goats are one of the few domestic animals remainder of the indigenous Huarpe community live that survive in the desert. The second edition of the book here in what was called the Lagunas de Guanacache. was presented at Le Parc exhibition center at Mendoza’s It is hard to imagine that there used to be lakes in annual book fair. When asked about what drove him to this area since now the soils are sandy and arid – the write this book, his answer was that he wanted people reason being the growth of metropolitan Mendoza. to know Mendoza as he did, a beautiful, remote and Lavalle is a very poor area with perpetual drought. quintessentially welcoming place. The province is twice Agriculture is the main activity in this sparsely the size of Ireland, yet only 6% of the land is lived on and populated area. It is a wine producing area and has cultivated. The rest is vast plains of desert bush or high, excellent growing conditions for all types of fruits. dramatic snow-capped peaks. Goats and cattle are raised here and there is a big honey production. It is mainly a rural area covering Amidst this vast geography are isolated settlements vast distances and that is why the Mobile Assistance manned by hardy farmers and herders, the stories and Service is needed. legends of which fill the pages of Sergio’s book.

6 Secret

7 The ‘puesteros’ that welcomed Sergio into their humble homes are the gate keepers of the culture and natural resources of the area. And they know the best fly fishing spots. He visits many remote and isolated locations in the province, especially in San Carlos and Malargüe. Malargüe is the very south of Mendoza and has natural parks that would excite any adventurer. The name comes from the native language Malal Hue that means the stone pen or land of corrals since the native tribes used to graze animals there.

Puesteros, Campesinos of the desert

A puestero takes care of an area of countryside and is especially occupied with herding animals, usually goats. They are a bountiful source of knowledge on the local fauna and flora, as well as the legends of the indigenous people, stories that were passed from generation to generation. They herd the livestock from one place to another as the gauchos did a century ago. They are very hospitable people. They will provide food and shelter for any brave traveller venturing away from the cities. They are experts on the weather and its impact on the surroundings. Most of the times they are the only ones there the whole year long. It is not unusual for them to get cut off completely from society either due to heavy rain or extreme weather conditions.

Lavalle Desert

Sergio’s book talks about one of the pivotal historical The book is divided in chapters each with stories retelling figures in the history of the country, José de San Martín the customs and life of the country people and focusing and his journey through the mountains to Chile. He on the main rivers of Mendoza. Sergio researched a lot on was, together with Simón Bolivar, the liberator of South his own about the geography and history of the place but, America. He was the governor of Cuyo (Mendoza, San the greatest feature are the anecdotes that portrait the Luis and San Juan) where he formed the Army of the workings of the rural community with its hospitality and Andes and crossed the mountain range to help liberate innocence. Chile from the Spanish Army. The book opens with the retelling of the ‘recogida’, where Sergio put together an expedition to recreate one of the several people on horseback herd all the animals to the routes that the Andes Army took through the mountains. estancias where they separate, inspect, cure and feed the The journey on horseback provided him with an excellent animals accordingly. opportunity to investigate the rivers and streams marking the border with Chile.

8 9 Mythical fishing spots also have a prominent space in the narrative. To get to them, one needs to trek for days. El Puesto Sergio had just come back from one of his many week- long expeditions. In Mendoza, fly fishing is all about technique since the rivers are fast moving and narrow. The scenery is awe inspiring with virgin places that are a fisherman’s dream.

In the book there is a chapter called “Sobre el rastro del lion” (Following the tracks of the lion – which is really a puma or cougar) talks about the great endeavour that was getting to Arroyo Moro (Moro stream) a virgin land inaccessible by road. After consulting with puesteros and local people, Sergio and a friend set off to find this mythical location for fishermen.

He had tried to get to Arroyo del Moro before with another of his friends but the attempt failed since they got stuck in the mountains. The puesteros told him that they sometimes lose cows to those altitudes and never bother to follow them. The cows become wild and the puesteros call them ‘wolf cows’. In another attempt Sergio and Federico leave their truck behind and walk through the rugged terrain.

After two days of trekking through amazing scenery and night skies, they arrived at the promised location only to find two puesteros who were friends of Batata. They warned them about the lion (puma). The next day was time for trekking and fishing.

They were in awe about the amount of trout and the little effort it took to fish them. As they walk on they ran into the tracks of the cougar. It was a female cougar and cubs.

They were afraid at times feeling vulnerable but the lre of good fishing was too great. As they returned and joined the puesteros down river, one of them was mourning the loss of two horses and guanacos to the lion.

The puma not only kills out of hunger, the puestero explained. A horse would have been enough for the hungry puma and cubs but sometimes blinded by their hunt they kill more than what they can eat. The next day, they all visited the ruins of an old indigenous settlement. The place was full of artefacts that allowed them to envision what life must have been like centuries ago before the Spanish arrived. The experience left them speechless.

It is very probable that these rural communities will start to disappear. Global statistics show that rural areas are suffering from all time population lows. Yet there is a strong desire to keep the traditions of the agricultural towns alive and well. Grazing cattle over huge distances, as it has been done for centuries, suddenly seems quite exceptional.

The puestero is Mendoza’s final link with the past and Río Grande, Malargüe the gatekeeper to a stunningly beautiful and little visited part of the World.

10 11 Best Cellars Mendoza’s Buried Treasures

A place of mystery and wonder, the wine cellar is the one of the most important parts of a winery. Gabriela Raimondo takes a peek into some of the most stunning in Mendoza.

Vistalba Winery Salentein Winery

Vistalba Winery – Functioning Elegance Salentein – Architectural heaven This winery has a strong Mendocino vibe intermixed Another Bórmida & Yansón masterpiece, the winery is with avant-garde technology. The cellar has been designed in the shape of a cross to make the wine making designed to make full use of gravity and prevent the over process more functional and practical. The focus is placed in use of pumps. It is five metres underground and built from the middle of the winery where the four wings converge in the stone, concrete and metal. A specially designed system shape of a circle with amazing acoustics. The lowest level has maintains cold temperatures and humidity. A long hall the look of a classic Greek theatre and live, intimate concerts is decorated with elegant lamps made from tumbleweed. are held here. The cellar is eight metres underground and The cellar is also the tasting room and one wall is actually holds an impressive 5,000 barrels. The stone floor represents a cross section of the vineyard, displaying clay, stone and the Rose of the Winds with each of its tips pointing to the vine roots. The architects are the very famous Eliana cardinal points. The winery has three tasting rooms, one with Bórmida and Mario Yansón. an enormous marble table cut from the one slab of rock. Caution, architecture fans might hyperventilate.

12 Altavista Winery Pulenta Winery

Altavista – Wine Haute Couture Pulenta – Modern and cool These cellars transport you back in time, to 1899 to be Another of Bórmida and Yansón’s creations, they stay precise when the winery was founded. It is one of the few true to the gravitational method. The hallway that leads left with a typical Spanish colonial style since frequent to the cellar is worthy of appearing in a Bond movie – earthquakes in Mendoza have left few buildings from cool, slick concrete everywhere and sport car engines as those times. The three cellars and the owners private décor. The Pulenta family are represantatives of Porsche collection of Alto vintages will make one see everything in Argentina. The tasting room is in the middle of the in black and white. The tasting room is a remodelled cellar and pays homage to the rocks of the mountains and concrete tank that used to be full of wine in the not so natural materials found in locally. Naturally lit through distant past. an outside sky light, the tasting room is surrounded by barrels.

La Rural: An Old Oak Tree Luigi Bosca: The Innovation Mill Felipe Rutini founded ‘La Rural’ in 1885. He was a pioneer Four generations make up the Arizu family. The winery in the industry in Mendoza. In the 90s the winery was is an old, renovated mill. The cellar is stacked high with renovated, keeping the balance between tradition and barrels and solemnly decorated with religious paintings. modernity. The wine museum is a must visit stop with Legend has it that the cellar is haunted but many think this over 4500 original exhibit pieces that convey the love is a clever ploy by the owners to prevent unwanted visitors and passion felt for the wine making process though out and pilfering. The winery was a pioneer in taking oak from Mendoza’s 500-year history. unorthodox places like Hungary and China. Wine tastings are held inside an old concrete tank where one can imbibe, literally, the tradition and history of the place.

Rutini Winery Luigi Bosca Winery

13 Caro Winery

Bodegas CARO: Underground Bliss A joint venture between Catena Zapata and the Lafite Rothschild family brings the Old and New Worlds together with a mix of tradition and innovation. Located in the city, CARO winey is quick and easy way to immerse oneself in Mendoza’s wine culture. The winery was built in 1884 but has since been remodelled with one of the oldest cellars in the province. The oak barrels amidst vaulted ceilings of exposed brick is a sight to behold. It is one of the few wineries that do visits at night andit is no small detail that the world renowned Francis Mallmann restaurant is right next door. Benegas Winery

Benegas Winery: Concrete Dreams The winery was built in 1901 and had an enormous capacity as most wineries from that time did. Federico Benegas Lynch bought it in 1999 and remodelled it to produce high quality wine. The Benegas family have been involved in the wine- making industry in Mendoza for over 100 years. Probably one of the most beautiful cellars in Mendoza, it can hold 1,200 barrels. It is eight metres underground and the old design is perfect to maintain the required temperature and humidity for the wine. The tasting room is an old concrete tank once full to the brim with wine. The museum upstairs showcases wine technology since the 19th century and a collection of genuine Indian ponchos.

Club Tapiz: Art and Wine Club Tapiz wine lodge is a perfect blend of art, history and wine. The estate was founded in 1890 and it is surrounded by 14 hectares of olive trees and vineyards. The old winery has been remodelled with an amazing mural by local star artist Sergio Roggerone. You can also visit the olive oil house and sparkling wine cellars that are remodelled concrete tanks.

Club Tapiz Winery

14 15 O. Fournier Winery Kaiken Winery

O. Fournier: Space Odyssey Kaiken: Feng Shui Vibes This state-of-the-art winery is mind-blowing in terms This is one of the most original cellars in Mendoza. The of architecture and design. The cellar is one of the Montes family are very well-known in Chile and this is most impressive in Mendoza. Another one of Bórmida their Luján de Cuyo operation. This remodelled gem in the and Yansón masterpieces, the cellar is enormous and middle of Vistalba has an unique way of aging the wine experienced by walking on suspended platforms. The through playing Gregorian chants. The cellar has its very use of natural light in the shape of a cross is incredible to own Guardian Angel that is also present on every Montes see from both the outside and inside. Label. Like many wineries they have recycled the use of old concrete tanks in their underground levels to store and age barrels.

There’s a cellar for everyone tastes Weinert Winery in Mendoza. The beautiful and corky, the elegant, the traditional and cave like, etc. All one has to Weinert Bodega and Cavas: do is visit and decide which is their Wine Folklore favourite as the range is varied. The traditions and customs of tonnellerie are well and alive at Weinert. They re-use the old oak casks by cleaning the inside every time they age the wine. The incredible smell of the casks transports one to simpler times. The secret passages within the cellars could be used in a thriller. At the end of the visit one can taste the best wines from vintages as old as Estrella 1977. 17 18 19 20 21 BARS

INSIDE MENDOZA CITY

The list below has some great bars but if you’re looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue, the nightlife strip of Mendoza. It’s a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs don’t even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.

LA TABERNA DE MOE This all-day, all-night drinking institution is popular with a young, student crowd and is a refreshing antidote to the cool posers on Aristides street. Located downtown, just off San Martin Avenue, it is basically a hole-in-the-wall beer den disguised as a kiosk. And like all the kiosks, it has lots of Duff Beer. Catamarca 22. Tel 425 5317

ANTARES BAR Aristides street would not be very complete without its own micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer in this respect with bars located across the country since before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar. Aristides 153. EL BOTELLÓN Located in the 5th Section towards the San Martin Park and on Sarmiento 635 this bar has at least 14 varieties – Nuevo Origen, La Palmira, Fulana, Maleva y Portal, amongst others. You can fill your own bottle and they have a gluten free option. In Sarmiento Street, don’t be deceived by their modest façade, once you enter the premises, the bar is huge. They have an upstairs region as well as their big patio where there’s a drink bar that is becoming the ‘it’ place in Mendoza for thirsty office workers to finish their day with happy hour. BELIEVE IRISH PUB One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part- owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music- video montages or football games. Monday night is International night and for their packed events DJ’s rock the house. Colon and España 241. Tel. 261-429-5567. HANGAR 52 www.believeirishpub.com.ar This warehouse bar has a rough and ready bohemian vibe with bare walls and high, corrugated roofing. There is nothing rough and ready about its beers however as they offer smooth, well honed IPA, lagers and stouts. There are over 50 variieties to choose from and service is rapid as they operate a self service ticket system that puts an end to long waits - a drinker´s curse in Mendoza. The food is standard fare but with big convivial tables, resident DJs and early evening opening hours it has quickly become one of the most popular and lively bars on the strip. Aristides 168.

22 BIKE TOURS In Maipú

The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below) where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. Recommended Wineries Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae, Alandes and certainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent “El Enemigo”.

USEFUL INFORMATION

AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right: (261) 156416 047 - Clark 298 corner. Olascoaga. CHANGING DOLLARS - “Cambio, cambio” shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped off check the current rate of the “dolár informal” on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

EVERYTHING YOU NEEDED TO KNOW ABOUT TIPPING BUT WERE AFRAID TO ASK It’s a cultural minefield and a frequent topic amongst tourists and locals. Here we try to unravel the thorny subject of tipping by answering the most frequent questions. - Should I tip? Yes. Mendocinos are too nice to push the point but those who work in hospitality, especially waiters, are very much dependent on gratuities. - Who should I tip? Most definitely your lunch or dinner waiter and to a lesser extent your driver and wine tour guide if you are happy with the service. - What should I tip? 10% is the norm for meals or if in doubt 100 pesos is reasonable. - Is the winery lunch tip not included with the wine tour package? No.

23 DINING OUT Recommended

healthy breakfasts and antioxidants juices, El Mercadito stays open throughout the siesta with its light MENDOZA menu of sandwiches, big salads and some Argentine classic meals. CITY Aristides Villanueva 521. Tel - 4638847. Avg. meal price: $190. Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961. Tel - 4962267.

La Patrona Pizzaiolo

Cozy Mendocino restaurant with a Minimalistic but full of flavor is how Los Toneles casual, rustic charm attracts with you can describe Pizzaiolo. This is a traditional Argentine food and true Italian food shop with excellent friendly and warm atmosphere. pizzas and Italian dishes such as Hearty empanadas and sizzling asado calzones, bruschettas and pastas. If you Los Toneles go with warm, open sandwiches. We have a sweet tooth we recommend recommend the artichoke hearts the tiramisu and lemon Semifreddo. Located 15 minutes walk beyond the and goat cheese; roasted vegetables The owners, Esteban and Karim Fahra city center, this handsome historical with white wine and honey; or the and Pablo Nievas, are no strangers winery offers Old World elegance more traditional pick of rich glands to successful businesses since their and atmosphere. The expansive cooked in lemon. 9 de Julio 656. Tel: families ran ‘La Buona Pizza’ and ‘De restaurant serves traditional dishes (261) 4291057. Mon. to Sat.:12.30pm- un Rincón de la Boca’ two of the most with a gourmet twist and it’s the 3.30pm and 8.30pm-close. Avg. Meal famous pizza places in Mendoza. perfect lunch or dinner spot for those cost: $350. Sarmiento 631. Tel: (261) 420-0181. who have just arrived and want Mon. to Sun.: 12pm to 1am. Avg. Meal some genuine Mendocino ambience . Josefina cost:$300 Lateral Norte Acceso Este 1360. Tel - 431 0403. Open Tuesday to Saturday Trendy and cosmopolitan, Josefina Torito lunch and dinner. Restó is an island of elegance on hectic Aristides Street. The building Torito is alluring the crowds to Juan is a playful mix of the urbane and B Justo Street, the new IT place in Grill Q the natural. The warmth of vintage Mendoza for a night out. Classic style drawings adorning the walls Argentinean comfort food is cooked are illuminated through large, on a huge grill with very traditional handsome street windows. The options such as burgers, lomos (steak food is eclectic and seasonal. www. sandwiches) and cuts of beef. Fresh josefinaresto.com.ar Aristides and excellent quality ingredients are Villanueva 165, Mendoza 5500, used and the menu includes vegan Argentina – Tel. 261 4233531 and gluten free options. Football fans are welcome to big games and their outside courtyard is perfect El Mercadito for balmy summer nights. www. facebook.com/toritotime Juan B. The perfect spot for some lunch time Justo 234, Mendoza 5500, Argentina sunshine or al fresco dining. Run by – Tel. 0261 423-3394 three friends, El Mercadito has a cool vibe and relaxed music making it a favorite. Opening in the morning for El Perro Lombardo The new gastronomic pub is causing a great first impression. The concept is simple but well thought of as there Grill Q Josefina are no formalities when sitting down Chic parrilla style restaurant (part on the table but to concentrate on of the Park Hyatt hotel) with open the quality of the food. El Perro or kitchen. Famous for grilled meats the dog offers a chance to mingle in and gigantic empanadas, and serves a cosmopolitan environment. The hearty Argentine classics such as options range from falafel to cous ‘locro’ – a stew that hails back to cous salad to burgers and you can pair the early independence days. The it a cold beer or glass of wine. The bite Hyatt’s other restaurant, Bistro M, of the week is very affordable only at offers a more gourmet evening menu $160 pesos which includes a dish of and the most exuberant ‘lunch menu’ the day + non-alcoholic drink or beer. in town. Chile 1124. Tel - 4411225. The bar is in Arístides Villanueva Avg. meal Grill Q $250 pesos. Bistro 537. Tel 4638847 M - Executive Menu $280.

24 Recommended DINING OUT

Ruca Malen Ruca Malen winery is synonymous OUTSIDE with gourmet food & wine pairings in Mendoza and was a pioneer in this area. Having lunch in Ruca THE CITY Malen is also a visual experience, from the food served in creative plates designed especially for the occasion by local craftsmen to the breathtaking view one gets of the Finca Agostino Andes and the vineyard. It also offers great vegetarian and gluten-free The property is beautiful full options. Ruta Nacional Km 7, Agrelo, of gardens and vineyards. The Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza. Tel: +54 261 restaurant matches the elegance of the 553 7164. Cel: +54 9 261 454 1236. AlPasión outside with a tasteful and polished [email protected] setting. My favorite is the hospitality of the staff. From beginning to end Prímula Cantina Ferroviaria your experience will be accompanied Los Negritos by the smiles and politeness of the A small, genuine restaurant that is a tourism and restaurant staff. The Family-owned restaurant in the homage to Mendoza’s railway heritage. food is a 5 course reverie to the senses rustic splendor of Las Vegas in Part of the winery Estrellas de los Andes, that will take you through the native Poterillos, 80 km from Mendoza. This this cantina is the Argentinean version ingredients of Mendoza with very is without doubt the best restaurant of a 50’s diner. The atmosphere is relaxed modern techniques. Pablo and Carlos in the mountains, specializing in and immediately transports you back to Torres, we’ll often explain the dishes traditional family recipes that add the good old days. You can even have and pairings. The menu is seasonal a new twist to Andean fare such as your lunch in an old restored wagon. The with much of the ingredients freshly humitas, tomatican and mondongo. setting is not pretentious and nor is the picked from the property’s organic The restaurant itself is simple and food. The menu consists of three courses vegetable garden and orchard. modern with no frills, but the food of with 3 to 4 options in every course. The Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipú. Tel – course. Open weekends and public options change every week according to 5249358. Mon to Sun 13pm to 4pm. holidays 12 midday to 4pm. Avg the season and the availability of local Avg. meal price: $1000 pesos. $250 AR. Los Olmos ST. La Vegas, products, made on a huge outdoor grill Potrerillos. Te. (0261) 155697431. and mud oven. Olavarria 225, Perdriel, Finca Agostino Lujan de Cuyo. Tel 261 2213899 from Tuesday to Sunday and holidays from Lunch in a Winery 11am to 18 pm

Whatever you do in Mendoza, make sure to have lunch in a winery. There is nothing quite like sitting back to a long line of wine glasses holding delicious Chardonnay, Torrontes, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon (amongst others), accompanied by the finest, gourmet food Argentina has to offer. The icing on the cake is that icing on the Andes in the background and the lush green vines of the vineyard. It is definitely the most civilised way to get drunk on La Azul the planet.

La Azul Casarena Restaurant Lares de Chacras A pioneer in the Uco Valley region, The view and setting is gorgeous. this boutique winery now offers One of Mendoza’s most charming Surrounded by vineyards, this hearty lunches in a rustic setting with boutique wine hotels has now opened modern and elegant restaurant stunning views of the mountains. its excellent restaurant to the general allows for a charming and gourmet Family-owned , the owners are often public. Located in the picturesque experience. The menu is designed by your hosts and they take pride in wine village of Chacras de Coria, star chef Lucas Bustos concentrating serving giant portions of excellent a 20 minute drive from the city, in a sustainable and organic cuisine. beef and pork dishes, accompanied Lares offers traditional local dishes The surprise of the menu is the by the winery’s excellent, high in a rustic deluxe environment. delicious pairing with their wines altitude wines. Popular, authentic Every Wednesday they offer asado, but also a cider. Brandsen 505, Luján and unforgettable. Open Tuesday to Argentine bbq. Larrea 1266, Chacras de Cuyo. Tel – (+54) 9 261 696 7848 . Sunday. Lunches only. Tupungato. de Coria, Tel. (0261) 491 1061 www. Mon. to Sat. 12:30pm to 3pm. Avg. Tel - (02622) 423 593. laresdechacras.com/ meal price: $1200 pesos.

25 THE WINERY GUIDE

Luján de Cuyo Maipú Valle de Uco

Los Toneles

City Center winery Los Toneles has a charming Old World feel CITY and excellent restaurant. It is a five minute walk east of the bus station.”Dirección: Acceso Este Lateral Norte 1360, 5519 Mendoza. (0261) 431-0403. Open everyday. www.bodegalostoneles.com Los Toneles Clos de Chacras Cruzat

Charming boutique operation with A boutique traditional sparkling wine nice history. A five minute walk producer with gorgeous bubbles that from Chacras plaza. Best Wine: Gran LUJÁN can be enjoyed from their terrace Estirpe. (0261) 496 1285/155 792706. overlooking vines. (261) 5242290, Costa Monte Libano s/n, Luján de Cuyo. DE CUYO Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.closdechacras.com.ar www.bodegacruzat.com

Terrazas de los Andes Melipal Alta Vista

The fine wine sister of Chandon Great Malbec and gourmet lunches Masterful mix of modern and Argentina is a beautifully restored make Melipal one of the most traditional. Tasting includes bodega with well-appointed tasting exclusive wineries to visit. (0261) distinctive Torrontes or single room. Best Wine: Cheval de los 4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo, vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684. Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5. Thames Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal. Álzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Luján de com.ar de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Mendel Matervini Terrazas de los Andes An old style winery ran by one of Two Malbec pioneers - Santiago Argentina’s most famous winemaker Achaval and Robert Cipresso, dynasties the De La Motta family. break new, exciting ground with (0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor rich, mineral wines from unusual Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www. terroirs. This tiny, boutique mendel.com.ar operation only sells from the winery. Cobos 2142. matervini.com. Viña Cobos Tel. 261 5616691. Luigi Bosca American winemaker Paul Hobbs Belasco de Baquedano The Arizu dynasty are the royal was one of the first to recognise family of Argentine wine and their the possibilities of Malbec and his Gleaming modern facility with seat of operations is a handsome and Bramare label is possibly one of the fascinating aroma room and restaurant elegant 110-year old winery. (0261) best examples of this varietal. (0261) with Andean view. (0261) 524 7864. 498 1974. San Martin 2044, Mayor 479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www. Drummond, Luján de Cuyo. www. www.vinacobos.com belascomalbec.co luigibosca.com.ar Familia Blanco Wines Catena Zapata Ciudad Family-owned, modern and practical Showcase winery designed like winery. It is branded by the passion a Mayan temple overlooking Luján de Cuyo and can do attitude of the owners. vineyards and the Andes Mountains. The most popular wine is Bonarda. Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100. Maipú The winemaker in charge is the Cobos s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www. famous Giuseppe Franceschini. Visits catenawines.com Valle de Uco available every day from 10am to 17pm. www.familiablancowines.com

Tapiz Nieto Senetiner

Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high- Located in a beautiful old winery end restaurant Terruño and an in Chacras, Senetiner was founded instructive wine tour including in 1888 and makes a great range of barrel and bottle tasting. (0261) 490 wines and sparkling wines. (261) 496 0202. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32. 9099, Guardia Vieja S/N, Vistalba, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.tapiz. Lujan de Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner. com com.ar

26 THE WINERY GUIDE

Driving time from Mendoza City Restaurant Lodging Art Gallery

Benegas Lynch Carmelo Patti Chandon

Rich history and richer wines. Lovely Mendoza’s most famous garagista. The original foreign investor, French- old bodega with lots of character. Carmelo Patti himself is often there owned Chandon has been making Best Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) to show you around (in Spanish). Best great sparkling wines in Mendoza 496 0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. www.bodegabenegas.com barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin R.P.15, Km 29, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. 2614, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar Caelum Decero Modern, medium size winery on Chandon the main road to Chile just before Attractive, modern facility with the mountains and has a nice spectacular views of the mountains family feel to it. Best Wine: Fiano from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524 (261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060, 4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo, Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar Luján de Cuyo. www.decero.com

Vistalba Dominio del Plata Tasting room where one entire wall Ruca Malen Argentina´s most famous female is a subterranean cross section of the winemaker Susana Balbo is creating actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks. Excellent food, great guiding and some rich and complex wines in the Fabulous restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. first-class wines. The pairings over heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200. Roque Saenz Peña 3135, Vistalba. lunch make for an unforgettable Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Luján de www.carlospulentawines culinary experience. (0261) Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar 5537164 / 4540974. R.N.7 Km 1059, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www. bodegarucamalen.com Renacer Dominio del Plata This Chilean-owned winery creates Estrella de los Andes the label Punto Final. Small, modern operation with tours that include Old World winery and canteen style a hands-on lesson in blending. Vistalba restaurant with a railway theme. Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo. Simple and authentic. (0261) 524-4416 or 524-4417. www. Tel. 2612213899 / 2614649190 bodegarenacer.com.ar Budeguer [email protected]

Lagarde Modern-style Budeguer winery offers you the chance to blend Owner of the oldest white wine in wine and art in a warm and relaxed South America. Try the hand-crafted atmosphere. Its superb terrace is sparkling wine made from 100 open until 8pm and it is the perfect year old vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. spot to sip a glass of Malbec enjoying 27. (261) 6815961 San Martin 1745, the sunset. Reservations required Mayor Drummond. Luján de Cuyo. at [email protected] or (0261) www.lagarde.com.ar 6830749- www.budeguer.com R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Luján de Casarena Cuyo. Mendoza. Kaiken

A beautiful mix of old and new, Dante Robino this winery mixes tradition and Achaval Ferrer modernity in an old style winery Founded in 1920, an atmospheric old- with a super modern restaurant with Modern boutique close to Mendoza style winery with a modernist, light- splendid views of the vineyards and riverbed. Big concentrated wines. filled tasting room with excellent mountains. Brandsen 505, Perdriel. (0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel, view of mountains and vines. www.casarenawines.com (261) Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer. (0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejón 6967848. com Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www. bodegadanterobino.com Kaiken Familia Cassone This rustic 80 year-old winery houses a new venture by the prestigious A charming, family owned winery Chilean winery Montes. Big and in a beautiful setting. Try the powerful wines, destined for fame. jasmine tinted rosé amidst the (0261) 4761111-14 INT 113 / Mobile pastoral splendour of the owner’s (0261-153 530 789) /Mobile (0261-155 expansive garden. Anchorena y Casarena 509 453) Terrada. (261) 424 6301. www. familiacassone.com.ar

27 THE WINERY GUIDE

Luján de Cuyo Maipú Valle de Uco

Septima Alpamanta Catena Zapata

A beautifully designed winery with Exemplary biodynamic vineyard set Showcase winery designed like clear views of the mountains and a in the rustic splendor of Ugarteche. a Mayan temple overlooking large terrace used for sunset wine Ideal for families and nature lovers. vineyards and the Andes Mountains. events after 6.30pm on Thursdays. Calle Cobos s/n.(0261) 153468398. Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100. (261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan www.alpamanta.com Cobos s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www. de Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com catenawines.com

Pulenta Estate Norton

Cool minimalist design and rich Old-style cellars contrast with a high- complex wines make this a winery tech production line. Tank and barrel with finesse and style. Best Wine: MAIPU tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426. are popular with the locals. (0261) Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo. 490 9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel. www.pulentaestate.com Luján de Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Trez Wines AMP Cava Three friends making award Rutini / La Rural winnning wine in a small, circular Premium wines made from different winery.Tel. 4877085 y Well-stocked museum with terroirs but all by renowned winemaker +54 9 2616854019. invaluable antiques like cowhide Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings [email protected] wine presses and buckets. Giant and a close proximity to the city make oak tanks stand in large, cavernous it a recommended visit. Gómez Adriano halls. (0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. 3602. Coquimbito. Maipú - Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, (261) 4813201/4668048 Maipú. www.bodegalarural.com.ar

Don Manuel Villafañe Lopez 25 Tempus Alba 4 Modern winery in the wide open Popular, old-style winery with two Charming family run winery with vineyards of southern Maipú. museums on the wine. Restaurant modern facilities and terrace with a Intense, complex wines. Art offers gourmet cuisine with a view. Carril Perito Moreno 570. tel. exhibition all year long. Ruta 60 panoramic view. (0261) 497 6554. 4813501. www.tempusalba.com. s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maipú. (0261) Ozamis 375, Gral Gutiérrez, Maipú. 5083067. www.dmvwines.com www.bodegaslopez.com.ar. Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial Carinae Finca Agostino Trapiche Small, charming, French-owned Elegant and picturesque winery winery offering personal tours and with ancient vines and walled Argentina’s biggest winery is a well-honed wines. Surrounded by orchard. Offer superb lunches and mix of old and new, traditional and vineyards and olive trees. (0261) 499 cookery classes. Carril Barrancas industrial, and has the old train 0470. Videla Aranda 2899, Cruz de 10590, Maipu. ( 261) 5249358. www. tracks leading up to it. (0261) 520 Piedra, Maipú . ncaagostino.com 7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Maipú. www.carinaevinos.com www.trapiche.com.ar

El Enemigo

One of Argentina’s most talented winemakers Alejandro Vigil opens the door to this colorful and unconventional boutique operation. Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered. Carinae Finca Agostino Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. (0261) Rutini Museum Finca Agostino 697 4213 Familia Cecchin

Familia Zuccardi A family winery using organic and biodynamic principles where you A professional, far-sighted operation. can see the entire process from the Attractive restaurant amidst the beautiful green vineyards to the vines, famous for its asado-style minimal intervention winery. (0261) lunches and generous wine pourings. 497 6707, Ruta 60 , 500mts before (0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5, Casa El Enemigo reaching Ozamis Sur roundabout Maipú. www.familiazuccardi.com Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

28 THE WINERY GUIDE

Driving time from Mendoza City Restaurant Lodging Art Gallery

Familia Di Tommasso Trivento Trivento Officially the second oldest winery in Located in the bucolic splendour of Mendoza and still run by Argentine southern Maipu, Trivento is owned hands. Their charming and rustic by the Chilean Concha y Toro. This restaurant looks onto the vineyard, modern winery has a beautiful deck set just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829. amidst the vineyards and offers bicycle Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maipú. www. excursions within the property. Ruta 60 familiaditommaso.com y Canal Pescara, 5517 Maipú, Mendoza. (0261) 413 7196. www.trivento.com

Finca Sophenia The Vines of Mendoza Modern, high tech winery in A cooperative of international wine VALLE stunning location. High quality lovers who have all bought a vineyard wines overseen by Matias Michellini. plot each in Uco Valley to make their www.sophenia.com.ar (02622) 154- own wine with experts. Add to this DE UCO 45622 a fabulous 5-star hotel and Francis Mallman restaurant and Uco Valley Domaine Bousquet will never be the same again. Ruta 94, Tunuyan. (0261) 461 3900 Atamisque Another French transplant to the Andean foothills of Valle de Uco, Salentein This Uco winery has some great this sizeable operation produces white wines, a unique stony roof and high altitude Chardonnay, Merlot Designed like a temple to wine, this they breed their own trout which is and Malbec. Ruta 89. Tupungato. ultra-concept winery includes a served in the charming restaurant. www.domainebousquet.com (0261) modern art gallery, lodge, and chapel (0261) 156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San 5274048 set high in the Andean valley. (02622) Jose, Tupungato. www.atamisque. 429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. www. com killkasalentein.com Corazon del Sol La Azul A stark, modern winery with big, Simple, small production winery concentrated reds. Californian with not so simple Malbecs, a small owned and inspired. Tunuyan. Tel. traditional restaurant and now a 0261 659 0043.www.corazondelsol. beautiful lodge. (02622) 423 593.R.P com. 89 s/n. Agua Amarga, Tupungato. www.bodegalaazul.com Andeluna Salentein The old-world style tasting room La Azul looks upon dramatic views of Diamandes vineyards against mountains. Probably the best gourmet lunch Modern, imposing winery with in the winery. (02622) 423 226 magnificent wines, part of Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary, prestigious French group Clos de los Tupungato. www. andeluna.com Siete overkooked by Michel Rolland. Calle Silva S/N. Vistaflores. (0261) 4760695. O. Fournier Bodega Masi Most architecturally innovative Fascinating Italian job in the heart of winery with rich, concentrated Tupungato with commanding views wines. Excellent lunches in the and commanding wines, especially modernist visitor center. (02622) 451 Andeluna the Amarone inspired varietals and 088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San unusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573. Carlos. www.ofournier.com www.masitupungato.com Piedra Infinita Gimenez Riili Innovative, elegant and modern, A brand new family run affair, part Piedra Infinita is the imposing, of the exciting Vines of Mendoza dramatic contribution of Familia project. This is a modern winery in Zuccardi in Uco Valley.. Open a stunning setting. (0261) 156317105/ from Wednesday to Sunday. www. 0261 / 153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n), zuccardiwines.com. Tunuyán. www.gimenezriili.com R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. Mendoza.

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33 MAP OF SAN MARTIN PARK

Mendoza City Tour Route

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