BUENOS AIRES TOURISM OFFICE Buenos Aires &Beyond Buenos Aires on my mind their visiting a Muslim country, given ISIS’s proclaimed war on the West. No one dropped out of the trip, however. Instead we traded the streets of our hometowns for the labyrinthine alleys of Fez and Marrakech and the stunning desert landscape of Skoura. We woke to the calls of the muezzin, learned about spices and herbs Why We Need for cooking and beauty routines, rode camels and spoke with Moroccans and expats about to Travel their daily lives. One of our guides reminded us that Morocco has historically been a beacon of religious tolerance, even during the Crusades. For centuries, Christians, Muslims and Jews ravel can inspire varied feelings: a sense have lived peacefully together there. of adventure, excitement, anxiety and Just as extremists exist in Germany, France Tsometimes also fear. I was clearly born and every other country in the world, including with a wanderlust gene, as I get antsy being the U.S., they are surely present in Morocco. But in the same place for too long without at least they do not represent the majority of the people. having one upcoming journey planned that I It has long been my belief that true understand- can look forward to. The thrill of setting off ing comes from person-to-person contact and for a new place or rediscovering a spot that is that the best way to promote tolerance is with distinctly different from my routine inspires one-on-one interactions. My recent time in Mo- me. I actually feel tuned in to a higher level of rocco reinforced that conviction, reminding me awareness, more alive even, when I am on the why it is essential to promote cultural exchange road. The Indian poet Rumi said, “Travel brings and understanding—and to resist isolationism. power and love back into your life.” And I agree This particular Insider trip came about with that wholeheartedly. because I posted photos on Instagram (@in- But I also know that even passionate travel- dagare) when in Morocco a year ago, and some ers can be spooked by news reports and global members suggested that I offer a trip that fol- events. In recent months, with Ebola and the lowed the same route. The highlight of the trip terror of ISIS haunting the headlines, I have was a dreamy, remote hotel in the Skoura oasis. spoken to quite a few people who are nervous On my first visit there, I was blown away by the about travel—in Africa in particular. Many beauty and elegance existing in such an isolated know that there are more flights from West place. Sharing it this year with friends and fel- Africa to Europe than there are to South Africa low adventurers made it even more amazing. or East Africa—which means there’s less of a With a nod to Byron, one of the women on our risk of contracting the virus in Tanzania or Cape trip summed up our collective experience: “A Town than in London. But unease still grows. pleasure not shared loses half of its savor—and a On our recent member trip to Morocco, pleasure shared is magnified many times.” participants from New York, Hong Kong and London spoke of friends being worried about 2 toc 12 4 10 2 On My Mind Why We Need to Travel 14 4-9 Travel Spotlight Southwestern Belle 10-11 Escape Playa Grande Beach Club 12-13 Food/Wine Brooklyn Dining 14-17 Active/Adventure 18 22 Alpine Skiing 18-21 Just Back From Why Go Now: Bhutan 24 22-23 Book Review Hot, Hot Heat 24-25 Far-Flung Adventure Know Before You Go: China 26 26-27 Art/Culture Local Legend: Kathryn Mikesell 30-56 Destination Report 30 Buenos Aires & Beyond The World of Indagare About Indagare Bookings Insider Trips Indagare comes from the At Indagare you can Insider Trips are special Latin word that means to research ideas for a trip on journeys designed exclu- seek, scout, discover. Indagare our site and consult with a specialist sively for Indagare members. With Travel is a high-end travel company on the phone or by email to create, their insider access, mapped-out with robust online editorial content refine or expand your itinerary. Our itineraries and exciting immersion in and a boutique in-house travel Bookings Team can help you with far-flung destinations, the trips offer agency. We travel, we write, and we something as simple as a hotel room members a rich and rewarding way plan memorable journeys for our or as complex as creating a multi- to explore the world. Upcoming des- members. To learn about our travel stop itinerary. We also have special tinations include Bhutan, Cuba and community, visit www.indagare.com rates and amenities at hundreds of Myanmar. For more information, or call 212-988-2611. Annual properties. Email bookings@ call 646-963-2242 or email membership rates begin at $325. indagare.com or call 212-988-2611. [email protected]. Indagare Plus Members who book through Indagare receive preferential rates and/or special amenities at the properties with the Indagare Plus symbol. 3 travel spotlight Southwestern Belle From coastal oyster shacks to glorious vineyard hotels, southwestern France’s Aquitaine region has a lot to offer—and now’s the time to visit, as Indagare’s Simone Girner reports. henever I leave countryside. There are many historic center to get your France, I’m already more ways to tour this varied bearings, exploring such Wplanning a return region. Contact Indagare’s historic monuments as the trip. Usually it’s to a different Bookings Team for help. Cathédral de Bordeaux, region, but Aquitaine, which Tour Pey-Berland (which you encompasses Bordeaux, Biar- Bordeaux—Two nights can climb) and the impres- ritz and the Pays Basque, was Arrive in this port city (split by sive Place de la Bourse, with such a delightful surprise that the Garonne River) and check Michel Corajoud’s permanent my next trip will be back there. into your hotel. The classic installation Miroir d’Eau, a Comprising five of France’s property is the centrally locat- reflective masterpiece. Make Z 100 departments, Aquitaine is ed Grand Hôtel de Bordeaux, a dinner reservation at one of T RRI A an amazingly varied place in which has a wonderful spa and the city’s newly opened bistros, I B terms of landscapes, food, cus- rooftop terrace. Hôtel de Sèze, like Le Chien de Pavlov or IS DU A toms and even language. Here a boutique property nearby, is Miles, both headed by young L is an itinerary that kicks off in a smaller, less expensive but and talented chefs. pa ESY Bordeaux and ends with relax- very charming option. Consider getting tickets for T ing in this region’s gorgeous Take a walking tour of the whatever opera or ballet is be- COUR 4 Clockwise: Chez Dupont in Bordeaux; Brasserie Bordelaise; Palais du Biarritz Return to Bordeaux in the afternoon, and head to the Chartrons neighborhood for some shopping along Rue Nôtre-Dame, which is lined with cool fashion and house- wares boutiques; don’t miss Lily Blake, Pia Pia or Ca- banes et Châteaux. Have an aperitif at Chez Dupont, the neighborhood’s classic hangout brasserie. For dinner, reserve at a classic like La Tupina or Le Petit Commerce, or go for one of the complex and innovative tasting menus at Le 7ème Pêché. For something completely different, after din- ner take a taxi to Guinguette Alriq, across the river. At this old-school riverside dance bar, you sit at mismatched plastic tables, sip inexpensive wine and wait for the band to get ing performed at the exquisite Atlantic coast. The Bassin started so you can dance the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux, d’Arcachon is a gorgeous night away with views of lit-up one of Europe’s oldest wooden- bay between the towns of Bordeaux in the distance. frame opera houses. Have a Arcachon and Cap-Ferret, nightcap at Night Plage on the where many Parisians have Biarritz—Two nights Grand Hôtel’s roof, or stroll to second homes. Between the From Bordeaux, take the train one of the many lively piazzas, two, the main attraction is the (two hours) to Biarritz. The ISE A like Place Saint-Pierre or Dune of Pyla, Europe’s largest seaside resort, close to the ORDEL B Place du Parlement, to take sand dune and an impres- Spanish border, was founded in the local scene. Another sive spectacle. Both Arcachon by Emperor Napoléon III SSERIE A hot spot is the rooftop bar at and Cap-Ferret are famous and his wife, Eugénie, who R B ; T Mama Shelter hotel, also in for their extreme tides and brought the entire court here ON P the center. Service is terrible oysters. After visiting the dune, in the 1850s. Biarritz is small but the crowd is young, hip take a boat to Cap-Ferret and enough to be easily explored and fun. have lunch at Le Bouchon du on foot, especially if you stay at ESY CHEZ DU T On day two, have breakfast, Ferret, a seafood market and the Palais du Biarritz, which COUR then take a train or car to the delicious restaurant. overlooks the impressive 5 Have lunch at the charming restaurant, Kaiku. In the afternoon, return to Biarritz, and spend time at the beach, or book a spa treatment at the Palais. In the evening, splurge on a meal in the Palais’s stunning dining room, with prime sunset views.