Buenos Aires & Beyond

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Buenos Aires Tourism Office Buenos Aires &Beyond on my mind

their visiting a Muslim country, given ISIS’s proclaimed war on the West. No one dropped out of the trip, however. Instead we traded the streets of our hometowns for the labyrinthine alleys of Fez and Marrakech and the stunning desert landscape of Skoura. We woke to the calls of the muezzin, learned about spices and herbs Why We Need for cooking and beauty routines, rode camels and spoke with Moroccans and expats about to Travel their daily lives. One of our guides reminded us that Morocco has historically been a beacon of religious tolerance, even during the Crusades. For centuries, Christians, Muslims and Jews ravel can inspire varied feelings: a sense have lived peacefully together there. of adventure, excitement, anxiety and Just as extremists exist in Germany, France Tsometimes also fear. I was clearly born and every other country in the world, including with a wanderlust gene, as I get antsy being the U.S., they are surely present in Morocco. But in the same place for too long without at least they do not represent the majority of the people. having one upcoming journey planned that I It has long been my belief that true understand- can look forward to. The thrill of setting off ing comes from person-to-person contact and for a new place or rediscovering a spot that is that the best way to promote tolerance is with distinctly different from my routine inspires one-on-one interactions. My recent time in Mo- me. I actually feel tuned in to a higher level of rocco reinforced that conviction, reminding me awareness, more alive even, when I am on the why it is essential to promote cultural exchange road. The Indian poet Rumi said, “Travel brings and understanding—and to resist isolationism. power and love back into your life.” And I agree This particular Insider trip came about with that wholeheartedly. because I posted photos on Instagram (@in- But I also know that even passionate travel- dagare) when in Morocco a year ago, and some ers can be spooked by news reports and global members suggested that I offer a trip that fol- events. In recent months, with Ebola and the lowed the same route. The highlight of the trip terror of ISIS haunting the headlines, I have was a dreamy, remote hotel in the Skoura oasis. spoken to quite a few people who are nervous On my first visit there, I was blown away by the about travel—in Africa in particular. Many beauty and elegance existing in such an isolated know that there are more flights from West place. Sharing it this year with friends and fel- Africa to Europe than there are to South Africa low adventurers made it even more amazing. or East Africa—which means there’s less of a With a nod to Byron, one of the women on our risk of contracting the virus in Tanzania or Cape trip summed up our collective experience: “A Town than in London. But unease still grows. pleasure not shared loses half of its savor—and a On our recent member trip to Morocco, pleasure shared is magnified many times.” participants from New York, Hong Kong and London spoke of friends being worried about

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10 2 On My Mind Why We Need to Travel 14 4-9 Travel Spotlight Southwestern Belle 10-11 Escape Playa Grande Beach Club 12-13 Food/Wine Brooklyn Dining 14-17 Active/Adventure 18 22 Alpine Skiing 18-21 Just Back From Why Go Now: Bhutan 24 22-23 Book Review Hot, Hot Heat 24-25 Far-Flung Adventure Know Before You Go: China 26 26-27 Art/Culture Local Legend: Kathryn Mikesell 30-56 Destination Report 30 Buenos Aires & Beyond

The World of Indagare About Indagare Bookings Insider Trips Indagare comes from the At Indagare you can Insider Trips are special Latin word that means to research ideas for a trip on journeys designed exclu- seek, scout, discover. Indagare our site and consult with a specialist sively for Indagare members. With Travel is a high-end travel company on the phone or by email to create, their insider access, mapped-out with robust online editorial content refine or expand your itinerary. Our itineraries and exciting immersion in and a boutique in-house travel Bookings Team can help you with far-flung destinations, the trips offer agency. We travel, we write, and we something as simple as a hotel room members a rich and rewarding way plan memorable journeys for our or as complex as creating a multi- to explore the world. Upcoming des- members. To learn about our travel stop itinerary. We also have special tinations include Bhutan, Cuba and community, visit www.indagare.com rates and amenities at hundreds of Myanmar. For more information, or call 212-988-2611. Annual properties. Email bookings@ call 646-963-2242 or email membership rates begin at $325. indagare.com or call 212-988-2611. [email protected].

Indagare Plus Members who book through Indagare receive preferential rates and/or special amenities at the properties with the Indagare Plus symbol.

3 travel spotlight Southwestern Belle From coastal oyster shacks to glorious vineyard hotels, southwestern France’s Aquitaine region has a lot to offer—and now’s the time to visit, as Indagare’s Simone Girner reports.

henever I leave countryside. There are many historic center to get your France, I’m already more ways to tour this varied bearings, exploring such Wplanning a return region. Contact Indagare’s historic monuments as the trip. Usually it’s to a different Bookings Team for help. Cathédral de Bordeaux, region, but Aquitaine, which Tour Pey-Berland (which you encompasses Bordeaux, Biar- Bordeaux—Two nights can climb) and the impres- ritz and the Pays Basque, was Arrive in this port city (split by sive Place de la Bourse, with such a delightful surprise that the Garonne River) and check Michel Corajoud’s permanent my next trip will be back there. into your hotel. The classic installation Miroir d’Eau, a Comprising five of France’s property is the centrally locat- reflective masterpiece. Make 100 departments, Aquitaine is ed Grand Hôtel de Bordeaux, a dinner reservation at one of an amazingly varied place in which has a wonderful spa and the city’s newly opened bistros, terms of landscapes, food, cus- rooftop terrace. Hôtel de Sèze, like Le Chien de Pavlov or toms and even language. Here a boutique property nearby, is Miles, both headed by young is an itinerary that kicks off in a smaller, less expensive but and talented chefs.

Bordeaux and ends with relax- very charming option. Consider getting tickets for l a is du b i rri t z t esy pa

ing in this region’s gorgeous Take a walking tour of the whatever opera or ballet is be- cour

4 Clockwise: Chez Dupont in Bordeaux; Brasserie Bordelaise; Palais du Biarritz

Return to Bordeaux in the afternoon, and head to the Chartrons neighborhood for some shopping along Rue Nôtre-Dame, which is lined with cool fashion and housewares boutiques; don’t miss Lily Blake, Pia Pia or Ca- banes et Châteaux. Have an aperitif at Chez Dupont, the neighborhood’s classic hangout brasserie. For dinner, reserve at a classic like La Tupina or Le Petit Commerce, or go for one of the complex and innovative tasting menus at Le 7ème Pêché. For something completely different, after dinner take a taxi to Guinguette Alriq, across the river. At this old-school riverside dance bar, you sit at mismatched plastic tables, sip inexpensive wine and wait for the band to get ing performed at the exquisite Atlantic coast. The Bassin started so you can dance the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux, d’Arcachon is a gorgeous night away with views of lit-up one of Europe’s oldest wooden- bay between the towns of Bordeaux in the distance. frame opera houses. Have a Arcachon and Cap-Ferret, nightcap at Night Plage on the where many Parisians have Biarritz—Two nights Grand Hôtel’s roof, or stroll to second homes. Between the From Bordeaux, take the train one of the many lively piazzas, two, the main attraction is the (two hours) to Biarritz. The like Place Saint-Pierre or Dune of Pyla, Europe’s largest seaside resort, close to the Place du Parlement, to take sand dune and an impres- Spanish border, was founded in the local scene. Another sive spectacle. Both Arcachon by Emperor Napoléon III hot spot is the rooftop bar at and Cap-Ferret are famous and his wife, Eugénie, who

; b r a sserie ordel ise Mama Shelter hotel, also in for their extreme tides and brought the entire court here the center. Service is terrible oysters. After visiting the dune, in the 1850s. Biarritz is small but the crowd is young, hip take a boat to Cap-Ferret and enough to be easily explored and fun. have lunch at Le Bouchon du on foot, especially if you stay at t esy chez du p on On day two, have breakfast, Ferret, a seafood market and the Palais du Biarritz, which

cour then take a train or car to the delicious restaurant. overlooks the impressive

5 Have lunch at the charming restaurant, Kaiku. In the afternoon, return to Biarritz, and spend time at the beach, or book a spa treatment at the Palais. In the evening, splurge on a meal in the Palais’s stunning dining room, with prime sunset views.

Optional Addition: Basque Region One night Biarritz makes a great base Chez Dupont; St. from which to explore the Émilion from above; Bordeaux street art Basque region. The French Basque towns are all within an hour’s drive of the resort. And you can combine touring them with a jaunt to San Sebastián and Bilbao, one hour and forty minutes away by car. A fun way to explore is by cruising through the winding countryside in a rented Citroen 2CV. Book a cooking demonstra- Grande Plage. before heading to dinner at tion and lunch in Espelette’s The most scenic walk is local favorite Crampotte 30, Atelier du Piment, and learn along the beach and up into in the Port de Pecheurs. Diners about the pepper production. the hillside town, where you sit outside on wooden benches In the late afternoon, wind can shop for espadrilles, beach and snack on regional tapas. up in tiny Ainhoa, a typical dresses and such local culinary The next day, take a short Basque village with red-and- staples as foie gras. Have a trip to the quaint fishing vil- white houses. Check into the coffee at the cute Milwaukee lage St.-Jean-de-Luz, about a basic but charming Maison Café or walk around Les twenty-minute drive away. The Oppoca, run by a husband- Halles, a marketplace lined center of town is lined with and-wife team (he’s also the with restaurants, bars and ca- independent boutiques that chef at the restaurant). You fés. In the evening, have a coup carry everything from Basque may prefer to explore during de Champagne on the terrace linens to espadrilles made the day and return to Biarritz

of the Palais, enjoying gor- in Spain (the border is just at night, as there are no high- t esy chez du p on

geous views of the setting sun twenty minutes away by car). end hotels in the area. cour

6 travel spotlight

Bordeaux’s Miroir d’Eau installation

Bordeaux Cheat Sheet Located on the river Garonne, which is much wider than the Seine, Bordeaux is a beautiful southwestern French city. Long called the Sleeping Beauty of France, it has benefited from a major clean- ing and restoration in the past decade. Here is a sampling of the city’s best. Many more suggestions and full reviews can be found on Indagare.com. Sleep…in the historic Grand Hôtel de Bordeaux & Spa Composed of five beautifully restored 18th-century buildings, the aptly named Grand Hôtel is the city’s top address for an opulent, old-word ambiance. Experience…a performance at the Grand Théâtre If there’s a ballet or opera playing at this house, it’s worth getting tickets to see the beautiful interiors. It’s one of Europe’s oldest wooden-frame opera houses. Eat…hearty southwestern French cuisine at the Bouchon Bordelais Whether you’re having lunch on the small terrace or dinner at a wooden table, this is a great spot for sampling local fare. Drink…and learn about wine at the École du Vin The two-hour tasting course at this city-sponsored school is a great preface to any wine tour of Bordeaux. You can request classes in English. Sample…over thirty different vintages at the brilliant Aux Quatre Coins du Vin Guests can sample thirty-two vintages, many from the region, and the lovely staff is on hand to offer guidance. A small menu of charcuterie and cheese makes this a wonderful way to start the evening. Visit…the acclaimed Musée d’Art Contemporain This museum occupies an old vaulted warehouse, whose massive stone rooms create a wonderful backdrop for the art. The rooftop café was designed by Andrée Putman. Shop…on Chartrons’ Rue Nôtre-Dame The Chartrons district began as an antiques enclave and still boasts many dealers. They have been joined by a collection of wonderful fashion and housewares boutiques, as well as chic cafés and restaurants.

7 travel spotlight

Countryside Relaxation Two nights Espadrilles Your final nights in southwestern France should be spent relaxing in a beautiful location, whether at a wine château, an acclaimed restaurant and spa resort or in the lush vineyards near Bordeaux.

Option 1: For spa lovers Located a thirty-minute drive from Bordeaux, Les Sources de Caudalie is the quintessential French country escape, with lush gardens and an absolutely gorgeous vineyard setting. The sixty-two rooms are housed in freestanding Best of Biarritz buildings scattered in clusters Founded by Emperor Napoléon III and his wife, Eugénie, the seaside around the property. In resort Biarritz has always had international flair. It’s not as glitzy as 2014 twelve new suites were the Côte d’Azur, but it has great large beaches and a bustling surfing scene, with the requisite hippie-cool vibe. unveiled, and these feature a more modern design scheme. Stay: Hôtel du Palais The pièce de résistance of The former summer residence of Emperor Napoléon III and his adored wife, Eugénie, this palace hotel is the heart of Biarritz, with a the multiacre property is the Grande Plage–facing location, lavish interiors and a stunning dining hushed spa, which has twenty room. The hotel also has an excellent spa. treatment rooms on three lev- Eat: Bar Jean els and offers the full gamut of This classic tapas bar and restaurant is located across the street from Caudalie’s famous Vinothéra- Les Halles market and draws a nice mix of locals and visitors. pie, a grape- and wine-based Drink: Comptoir du Foie Gras spa program. This is the kind of congenial place that makes you long to be French. Everyone crowds into this corner spot near Les Halles market, where local wine and heaping platters of charcuterie (or foie gras) are served Option 2: on overturned wine barrels. For wine lovers Shop: Espadrilles At Pape Clément, a beauti- The Spanish border is, after all, only thirty minutes away, so many ful 16th-century château and shops carry colorful incarnations of espadrilles. In Biarritz, look for the lovely Les Sandales d’Eugénie and diminutive Espadrilles Arin, winery a twenty-minute drive on the central Rue Mazagran. from Bordeaux, guests can play king and queen for one or

8 Bordeaux is a curious, original, perhaps unique city. Take Versailles, add Antwerp, and you have Bordeaux.” ~Victor Hugo, Voyages Pyrénées, 1843

Clockwise: Terasse Rouge; Ainhoa village; a winery; a Citroen 2CV; Opposite page: shopping in Biarritz

several nights. Rooms all look workshop where guests sample hour and forty-five minutes by as if Marie Antoinette might their way to their ideal blend car from either Bordeaux or have just stepped out, with of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvi- Biarritz, is beloved as much for polished antiques and lots of gnon, creating a personalized its serene countryside setting velvet and satin wall cover- bottle to take away. as for its spa. But the main ings. A personal chef is on call draw is the food, with three for preparing meals, which Option 3: restaurants and a brand-new can be served in the formal For gourmets cooking school keeping guests wood-paneled dining room or Award-winning chef Michel inspired and well fed. The in the light-filledorangerie , Guérard opened his now- Guérards also have a series of which overlooks the vineyards. legendary restaurant in tiny homes on the Atlantic Coast, Activities center on wine, from Eugénie-les-Bains in 1974, and so day trips with picnics or visiting wineries and wine he and his wife, Christine, have overnights can be organized. villages (St.Émilion is a forty- been adding to their beautiful minute drive away) to private resort property ever since. To- For more of Indagare’s tips on visiting tastings and a wine-blending day Les Prés d’Eugénie, one the area, visit www.indagare.com.

9 escape

The Caribbean Resort That Broke the Mold Indagare’s Amelia Osborne travels to the Dominican Republic and finds that Boykin Curry and Celerie Kemble’s passion project, the highly personalized Playa Grande, is a love letter to the country.

aribbean detractors will argue that a golf club, an Aman in development (due to the region lacks two key ingredients: a open in 2016) and miles of virgin, wide beach. Csense of soul and refined service. Playa The property feels less like a hotel and more Grande Beach Club has the white-sand beaches, like a country club, with six one-bedroom and towering coconut palms and soft ocean breezes three three-bedroom stand-alone villas tucked that have made the region a vacation mecca— into the immaculate jungle landscaping but set but also a truly excellent staff and vast amounts conveniently close to the common buildings. of personality and authenticity. The main structure resembles a plantation The property, which opened in 2014, is the house, with gingerbread filigree, hand-painted passion project of New York financier Boykin Dominican tiles, cane-and-wicker furniture Curry and his wife, Celerie Kemble, a celebrated and burnished-copper light fixtures hanging interior designer. The two, who are parents from cathedral ceilings. If there are doors, they a gr nde b e ch clu of young kids and have been coming to the are never used, encouraging a breezy indoor- y Dominican Republic’s north coast for more than outdoor lifestyle for meals, cocktails, gatherings

a decade, own the 2,000-acre plot on which the and lounging. A cozy library contains an antique t esy p l a

resort is set. It has since been parceled out into miniature French carousel, hammered-metal cour

10 shaded by pink tassled–canvas umbrellas line the sand in front of the property. The beach, however, is open to the public and is one of the country’s most popular, so you will see day- trippers and hawking vendors. The property boasts many stars, but the one that shines brightest is its quirky, worldly, thoughtful and utterly beautiful décor. Celerie clearly put her heart into designing the guest rooms but at all times kept in mind what is most comfortable and appropriate for a beachside property. Floors are painted hardwood, furniture is adorned in light-colored fabric, beds are comfortable, with crisp white linens, and the large bathrooms are equipped with beautiful copper bathtubs as well as spacious rain showers. There are multiple seating areas on the wrap-around terrace and in the screened-in porch, which can be converted into a second bedroom for children on rollaway beds. For those not content with just the on-property amenities like the Har-Tru tennis court, pool and fully serviced beach, the staff at Playa Grande is happy to set up tee times, surfing lessons, snorkeling, hiking, horseback riding palm-tree sculptures, overstuffed upholstered and boat excursions. They can also arrange for furniture and stacks of board games. It’s the massage therapists to come to the property for kind of place where, after admiring how the treatments on the beach, by the pool, in guests’ cushions are placed on the throne-like wicker rooms or on their terrace. Chances are, however, chairs, you plop down on them in your sandy that your travel-related aches and pains will be shorts without a second thought. cured naturally by the charms of this paradise in Although the resort has just one kitchen, just a few days. guests may choose to dine in the main build- Who Should Stay: The most personalized, spe- ing, in the second-floor bar, by the pool, on the cial property on the Dominican Republic should beach or on their villas’ private terrace. The appeal to romantic couples and families alike. excellent chef has a passion for local ingredients Guests, however, need to be able to survive that is evident in his dishes, particularly the without a spa or gym on site and must under- a gr nde b e ch clu y shrimp tacos, octopus salad and grilled fish. stand that there are no restaurants or shopping The Playa Grande beach is devoid of develop- options on property or nearby. t esy p l a ment other than The Beach Club and the in- Playa Grande, Rio San Juan 844-589- cour construction Aman. Comfortable chaise lounges 2070; Read Indagare’s hotel review.

11 food & wine

New York’s Foodie Capital: Brooklyn No longer living in Manhattan’s shadow, Brooklyn has become a destination in its own right, thanks to a host of creative chefs who draw inspiration from the area’s old-school cultural institutions and international fusion cuisines. Indagare’s Marley Lynch rounds up the borough’s best.

Clockwise from top left: Roberta’s; Glasserie; the bar, a cocktail and a bar- tender from Maison Premiere; The Elm credit T K

12 any Manhattanites weeks in advance. For commit- Maison Premiere are only just realizing ted foodies, the 20-plus-course The wait at this Williamsburg Mwhat others have set menu is an incredible hot spot can be tedious, but known for years: Brooklyn experience. 200 Schermerhorn it is nonetheless a charmer offers some of the world’s most St.; 718-243-0050 thanks to an absinthe-infused inventive dining. It even has a cocktail program, stylish food market—Smorgasburg, a Peter Luger Steakhouse crowd and excellent seafood- popular destination, dedicated Despite spotty service and an focused small plates. The to culinary innovation, that is inexplicable cash-only policy, backyard garden is particularly the birthplace of the much- this old-school steak house is romantic. 298 Bedford Ave.; hyped Ramen burger. Here are beloved for its delicious, aged, 347-335-0446 some favorites. marbleized and charred por- terhouse. This is the place to Allswell Roberta’s go for the quintessential New Past favorites at this hip gas- Neighborhood hipsters flock York steak experience. 178 tropub include pole beans and to Brooklyn’s famed pizzeria, Broadway; 718-387-7400 pesto pasta, a beautifully done but Roberta’s is more than a half chicken and beef heart mere slice spot. The eatery also The Elm crostini. Brunch and lunch grows its own produce and The menu at this swank spot are also excellent. 124 Bedford creates small plates not unlike is divided into four categories: Ave.; 347-799-2743 those one would fine at a more raw, sea, land and shared. upscale restaurant. 261 Moore Among the offerings is an Glasserie St.; 718-417-1118 elegant take on fish and chips This unique, Middle Eastern– as well as one of the city’s inspired restaurant provides Reynard finest burgers, topped with ample reason to trek to Green- This stylish restaurant offers tomato confit. The chef’s point. The small plates are elegant New American cuisine counter offers a more upscale excellent, but the large-format with seasonal ingredients. The experience. 160 N 12th St.; rabbit is the star, cooked three open kitchen turns out dishes 718-218-7500 ways and served with griddle like cucumber slices with bread and garnishes. 95 Com- yogurt and cherries, a grilled Pok Pok mercial St.; 718-389-0640 pork chop with foraged greens The Brooklyn outpost of this and that omnipresent grass- Portland, Oregon, hipster Luksus fed-beef burger. 80 Wythe haven wows diners with its This twenty-six-seat eatery set Ave.; 718-460-8004 Thai street food. The funky in the back of an Icelandic beer eatery turns out dishes that are house is a foodie favorite. The Chef’s Table at once innovative and homey, luckiest diners score a spot at at Brooklyn Fare like sweet and sticky chicken the bar, where they can watch This three-Michelin-starred wings and salty red peanuts the chef prepare Scandinavian- t esy diedre schoo; remy a mezcu ; m ison p remiere, mich el we b er restaurant is so revered that with chilies and lime leaf. 117 inspired fare. 615 Manhattan

cour you must book reservations six Columbia St.; 718-923-9322 Ave.; 718-389-6034

13 active/adventure

Alpine Skiing In response to a member query, the ski junkies at Indagare put together a comprehensive guide to Europe’s hottest ski resorts.

ong a destination for world-class skiing Vallées, so you can get access to three different and striking landscapes, the Alps offer resorts on one lift ticket. The other two resorts, Lno shortage of thrills. But the mountain Méribel and Val Thorens, are also easily acces- range, which spans 750 miles in eight European sible. Val Thorens has some serious skiing, while countries, is understandably overwhelming for Méribel is like a bigger, less expensive version of the first-time visitor. Indagare’s Alpine Cheat Courchevel. Sheet breaks down the top resort towns so that New This Season: Designed by India Mahdavi t ele selecting a destination is as easy as snapping on and Joseph Dirand, L’Apogée hotel opened in a pair of ski boots. late 2013 to great acclaim. It boasts some of the resort’s largest rooms (53 in total) and also has a Courchevel, French Alps great private chalet next door. Managed by Oet- Who Should Go: Families, foodies ker Collection (of Paris’s Bristol and the South Skiing Level: Beginner to Intermediate of France’s Hotel du Cap-Eden Roc), L’Apogée is sure to be this season’s hottest hotel to book. In a Nutshell: Very posh and with lots of good Getting There: Courchevel is about two hours restaurants, Courchevel is great for family ski- by car from either the Geneva or the Lyons ing, because it is not too challenging, and there airport. Another option is to take the four-hour are excellent ski schools. Although it doesn’t TGV train from Paris to the town of Moutiers,

offer a lot of trails for hard-core skiers, Courch- which sits about thirty minutes by taxi away t esy office de ourisme ch a monix nd chris i n m r

evel covers a large area. It is part of Les Trois from Courchevel. cour

14 Clockwise: a Gstaad chairlift; Lech village; a chalet; trekking uphill in Chamonix

Chamonix, French Alps Zermatt, Swiss Alps Who Should Go: Die-hard skiers, couples Who Should Go: Families, adventurous skiers Level of Skiing: Advanced Skiing Level: All levels

In a Nutshell: Chamonix is a dream for die- In a Nutshell: Zermatt is an ideal destination hard skiers. Arguably the best mountain in the for anyone who enjoys being outdoors and Alps, it offers steep runs and varied terrain. wants an unrivaled high-elevation experience. It The French ski town is one of the most popular even has some of Europe’s best heli-skiing. De- and has a buzzy scene, although it is not great spite having grown significantly in the past few for families because everything is spread out decades, the car-free village retains a charming over different sides of the valley. Good skiers small-town feel. And although the idyllic spot love this, though, because it means that there’s draws lots of visitors, the 155 miles of ski trails always one area where the wind has been per- (you can even ski into Italy for lunch in Cervina) fect and created good conditions overnight, and and resort capacity of almost 40,000 people per many of the off-the-beaten-path runs see little hour means no crowded slopes or long lift lines. traffic. There are a few nice hotels in Chamonix. Glacier runs help extend the ski season well into Fun Fact: Chamonix was host to the first Olym- the spring. The resorts aren’t ski-in/ski-out, but pic Winter Games, held in 1924. you can store your equipment at the base of the in ex p osure d s aa nenl a nd Tourismus; us t ri n ouris office; moun ta t esy gs taa Getting There: The Geneva airport is just an gondola that takes you up to the mountain.

cour hour drive from Chamonix. Leave the Skis: Zermatt is a wonderful destina-

15 active/adventure

Zermatt town; the master suite at The Lodge, Verbier

tion for nonskiers, too. The Swiss resort is an village with some charming restaurants, and outdoor enthusiast’s paradise, so while half the the scene is lively and fashionable. Verbier is family hits the slopes, the others can opt for the perfect resort for getting the Alpen Ge- curling, ice-skating, hockey, sledging, snowshoe- müt—great skiing and good food. There are no ing or winter hiking. fantastic hotels, so it is best to rent a chalet. Getting There: The easiest option is to fly into Designer Digs: As well done as his other prop- Geneva or Zurich, then take a train to Visp and erties (such as Kasbah Tamadot and Necker connect to Zermatt (a four-hour journey.) Al- Island), Sir Richard Branson’s exclusive-use ternatively, you can fly into Milan and drive 2.5 chalet The Lodge, Verbier, offers luxurious ac- hours. Zermatt also has its own heliport, which commodations for groups of up to 18. The house cuts down the travel time to an hour or less. has an indoor pool, spa and mini ice rink. Getting There: The closest airport is Geneva, Verbier, Swiss Alps a two-hour drive away. There is also a scenic Who Should Go: Ski junkies, groups of friends hour-and-forty-minute train ride from Geneva Skiing Level: Advanced to Martigny, where you can get a taxi to Verbier.

In a Nutshell: Verbier occupies a middle Gstaad, Swiss Alps ground between Courchevel and Chamonix. It Who Should Go: Scenesters, groups of friends attracts lots of ski bums, but of a different kind: Skiing Level: Beginner to intermediate these are residents, not just seasonal visitors. Some actually prefer the skiing here to that In a Nutshell: Because of its low altitude, in Chamonix, because you get more out of the Gstaad’s skiing is not as good as Zermatt’s, and

mountain without having to traverse or take there isn’t as much variety, but the scene is very t esy le a nder wenger

buses between areas. Verbier has a nice little social. The routine is to wake up late, ski for an cour

16 and Austria, St.-Moritz is one of Europe’s most sophisticated winter resorts. With an average of 322 days of sunshine each year, it also boasts some of the best weather. There are two sides to St.-Moritz: the very private one, which centers on the Suvretta neighborhood, where everyone seems to have a title or a billion dollars, and St.- Moritz Dorf, the exuberant side, which more or less revolves around the Palace Hotel. This area is a magnet for international one-percenters who like to ski, eat, shop, but most of all, spend. Giddy Up: Considered one of Europe’s top winter sporting events, White Turf is an alpine Triple Crown. The annual competition, which takes place on St.-Moritz’s frozen lake includes trotting or carriage races and skijoring, in which a skier is hitched to a horse and pulled around. hour or two and then relax. None of the hotels Getting There: You can fly into Zurich and then are ski-in/ski-out, so you should be OK with take the four-hour train, which involves mul- driving to the mountain. That said, if you are tiple changes but is still faster than driving. traveling with a group that has skiers and nonskiers, Gstaad is a great option. Lech, Austrian Alps Spring Skiing: With its impressive height (and Who Should Go: Families and couples snow-making machines), Gstaad’s Glacier Skiing Level: All levels 3000 accommodates skiing well into May. The mountain, however, is a thirty-minute drive plus In a Nutshell: Lech is ideal for romantics and a forty-five-minute gondola ride from Gstaad families with young children: safe and pictur- town, but it’s one of the few places in Europe esque, with efficient Austrians running the where you can ski so late in the spring. show. Advanced skiers delight in going off-piste. Getting There: The airports in Geneva and Lech town is charming with lovely small hotels, Zurich are, respectively, a two- and three-hour most of which are walkable from the lifts. drive from Gstaad. Swiss Federal Railways of- New This Season: The 2014/15 winter will be fers transport from other cities in Switzerland. the first complete season since the opening of Gstaad also has a private airport. a luxury gondola (complete with heated seats) connecting Lech to neighboring ski resort St.-Moritz, Swiss Alps Warth-Schröcken. The lift expands Lech’s acces- Who Should Go: Sophisticates, night owls sible terrain by 50 percent. Skiing Level: All levels Getting There: Lech is about three hours from Zurich by car. t esy he lodge, ver b ier In a Nutshell: Located in the Engadin Valley, to

cour the southeast of Zurich on the border with Italy For more on skiing in the Alps, visit www.indagare.com.

17 Clockwise: Views, building a fire and a living room at Uma Paro by COMO; an outdoor fire at Amankora Paro; a Bhutanese monk; al fresco dining at Amankora Punakha credit T K

18 just back from Why Go Now: Bhutan With a goldmine of five-star hotels and one of the most isolated cultures in the world, Bhutan is a study in contradictions, findsMelissa Biggs Bradley.

n a recent trip to Bhutan, Melissa Biggs It’s the last authentic place on earth. Bradley was utterly entranced by the Journalists and officials have argued that noth- Obeauty and serenity of the country, ing is done here for the sake of tourism, and which seems to teeter between Medieval, myth- the government limits tourists to minimize ological and modern times. Here she shares six their impact. It also regulates the experience by reasons to visit Bhutan now and breaks down requiring local guides to accompany tourists at what makes the last Buddhist Kingdom so ut- all times. With an inherent respect for their own terly bewitching. culture, they serve as wonderful ambassadors as well as protectors. In fact, tourists are rarely It is as close to a fairyland as you can seen outside major sites, which makes it easier imagine. to have meaningful exchanges with the inhabit- Referred to by its own people as the Land of ants. For instance, we were able to walk into a the Thunder Dragon, Bhutan was founded by farmhouse unannounced with our guide, join a Buddhist master in the 17th century. On my the morning chanting services at a monastery, recent journey there, I saw houses painted with talk with a member of parliament and meet giant phalluses to ward away evil spirits, at- with an eleventh-generation Tibetan healer. All tended a fertility ceremony conducted by monks of these experiences were possible because tour- in the Temple of the Divine Madman and was ism can be intimate when it is on a tiny scale. blessed by a twelve-year-old monk who was the However, every time such interactions take thirty-seventh reincarnation of a lama. Where place, they become more commercial and lose else in the world are there national holidays like some of their innocence and authenticity. the Blessed Rainy, which celebrates the end of the monsoon with all-day archery contests, and Buddhism is a way of life. the Naked Monk Festival, occurring later in the As a Buddhist kingdom that has followed this fall, when monks dance together. Tigers—and, way of life for centuries, Bhutan attracts many locals believe, yeti—roam its forests. The current queen plays basketball with her ladies in A room at Uma Paro by COMO waiting, and the previous king’s love of mountain biking spawned a holiday dedicated to the sport called the Tour of the Dragon. After a few days of climbing to mountaintop monasteries and temples (one on the site where Guru Rimpoche is said to have landed on the back of a flying tigress) and listening to the country’s ro ro b y como; a m nkor p un kh ; pa t esy um a pa legends, I would not have been surprised to

cour meet a unicorn or dragon.

19 just back from

who come seeking enlightenment and healing and to learn meditation. For these visitors, the country offers monasteries and temples, as well as reincarnated holy men, who have had to pass tests to prove that they are older souls. The most recent incarnation of the country’s Buddhist traditions may be its focus on Gross National Hap- piness. As Kinley Dorji, the head of Bhutan’s Ministry of Information and Communication, explains it, “Happiness is an individual pursuit. Gross National Happiness then becomes a responsibility of the state, to create an environment where citizens can pursue happiness. It’s not a guarantee of happiness by the government. It’s not a promise of happiness. But there is a responsibility to create the conditions for happiness.” And in such a place, it is not surpris- ing that even tourists feel infused with a sense of peace and well-being.

Can Shangri-La last? Bhutan is in the midst of shifting from a Bud- dhist Kingdom to a modern democracy. The ban on television was lifted only in 1999, and there is just one traffic light in the country. Because it was cut off from the West and modern ways until recently, the country radiates a remarkable young Bhutanese to prefer Western dress and innocence. The previous king, who is known as music to traditional forms. K4, bestowed democracy on his people in 2006, and the elected government is now finding its Its Himalayan beauty is staggering. way without ever having had a revolution or We hiked by rice paddies, past rushing streams, being a colony. along forest trails and through fields of wild- Although the current king, Jigme Khesar flowers. Many trails lead to remote temples or Namgyel Wangchuck, K4’s eldest son, and the monasteries, including Tiger’s Nest, the cliff- parliament clearly want to balance their respect clinging temple that requires a few hours’ hike. for the culture with the population’s hunger for With such stupendous wild beauty, Bhutan is growth and economic opportunity, it remains to truly a nature lover’s paradise. be seen whether that is possible. The country recently allowed Google to broadcast street views It has the highest concentration of in hopes that foreigners can learn about Bhutan Amans in the world. without visiting, and foreign influences have led Despite its small size, the country has an amaz-

20 Dancers at the Thimpu Festival; the Amankora Thimpu lounge; dining at Uma Paro by COMO

ingly high number of luxury hotels. In addition tion make the journey treacherous and at times to five Aman properties, there are two from terrifying. So accepting that all life involves Como Resorts (the company behind Parrot suffering, as the Buddhist teach, enables you to Cay) and the wonderful new Gangtey Lodge. So endure these long drives with more grace. although Bhutan is an idyllic place for spiritual or active excursions (hiking, biking, rafting), Indagare Insider Trip: We are planning an you can stay in supremely cosseting hotels with Indagare Insider trip to Bhutan in November, wonderful food and wine. Here, authenticity 2015. For more information and to request a doesn’t come with austerity. space, email [email protected].

Traveler’s Tip: Those considering a trip to the To read Indagare’s destination report on Bhutan, including Buddhist Kingdom of Bhutan would do well to recommendations on where to stay, what to see and do and how to navigate the country, visit www.indagare.com. embrace some Buddhist principles. To see much Indagare members can contact our Bookings Team for ro b y como; a m nkor t him p u t esy um a pa of the country requires traveling on winding assistance planning personalized visits to the country with our preferred guides and including favorite experiences. cour mountain roads, where mudslides and construc- Email [email protected] or call: 212-988-2611.

21 book review

Hot, Hot Heat A new cookbook, with imagery as enticing as the comforting recipes, vaunts the virtues of simple, homemade Mexican cuisine. Here are three recipes worth whipping up at home. ini-huff, p h a idon t esy fi a mm p i cen ini-huff,

Potato and chorizo tacos cour

22 espite numerous international influences as a result of Spanish colonization in the 16th century, Mexico and its vibrant cuisine Dhave a distinct and an undeniable kick—the Yucatán Peninsula is the home of the habanero pepper, the world’s hottest chili. And although many of the ingredients essential to traditional Mexican cuisine—corn, beans, rice—are simple, each dish contains an added element: soul. Featur- ing recipes that have been passed down and perfected over generations, Mexico: The Cookbook (Margarita Carrillo Arronte, $50, Phaidon 2014, www.phaidon.com) celebrates the joy of home cooking and invites readers to make mealtime a time of renewal and community.

Guacamole Potato and Chorizo Tacos Champurrado (Mexican Preparation time: 15 minutes Preparation time: 20 minutes Hot Chocolate) Serves: 4 Cooking time: 50 minutes Preparation time: 5 minutes Serves: 6 Cooking time: 25–30 minutes Ingredients: Serves: 8–10 1 tomato, seeded and chopped Ingredients: (optional) 4 potatoes, diced Ingredients: ½ onion, finely chopped 2 tablespoons corn oil, plus extra 3 ½ oz masa harina 1 serrano chili, finely chopped for frying 1 cinnamon stick juice of 1 lime 1 onion, finely chopped pinch of salt 2 tablespoons finely chopped 1 lb, 2 oz chorizo, skinned and diced 1 big cone piloncillo or 1 cup cilantro (coriander) 6 smoked chipotle chilies packed soft-brown sugar 1 avocado, diced in adobo, chopped 5 oz semisweet dark chocolate 4 tablespoons olive oil 12 blue-corn tortillas sea salt sea salt Instructions: tortilla chips, to serve • Put the masa harina and 2 cups To serve: of cold water into a large bowl and Directions: lettuce, shredded mix well. Put the tomato, if using, onion, chili, grated queso fresco or feta cheese • Put the cinnamon stick, piloncillo, lime juice and cilantro in a bowl, stir Salsa of choice salt and 4¼ cups water into a large well to mix, and season with salt. saucepan and bring to a boil, reduce Gently fold in the avocado, then Instructions: to a simmer, then add the masa mix- taste and adjust the seasoning, if • Bring a saucepan of water to a boil ture and stir continuously until thick necessary. Add the olive oil, and mix. over high heat, add the potatoes, and slightly translucent. Add the Serve with tortilla chips. and cook for 7 minutes. Strain and chocolate and continue stirring until set aside. the chocolate is completely dissolved Note: It is best to prepare guaca- • Heat the oil in a saucepan. Add and integrated. Serve hot. mole minutes before serving to avoid the onion and cook over medium discoloration. Instead of incorporat- heat, stirring occasionally, for 7 ing the chopped tomato, you can minutes. Add the chorizo and cook, use it as a garnish, arranging it stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, around the edge of the serving bowl. until browned. Add the chilies and cook for a few minutes, then add the diced potatoes and stir everything together well. Season to taste with salt, then remove the pan from the heat. • Warm the tortillas by placing them in a dry frying pan or skillet and flipping them over continuously until they are soft. Place them in a basket and cover with a dish towel until you have warmed them all. Fill each tortilla and fold in half. Garnish with lettuce and cheese, if using, and serve immediately with salsa.

23 far-flung

Know Before You Go: China Indagare’s Barkley Hickox reflects on the paradox that is China, and how best to go about planning a trip there.

couple of months ago, speed. Educated Westerners return home transformed. I departed for China a will undoubtedly find the jux- For information on how to Asavvy, New York-dwell- taposition between past and plan a trip, contact our Book- ing, independent travel profes- present beguiling, but even the ings Team. In the meantime, sional. After two weeks and best-traveled explorer needs a here are five things to know six Chinese cities, I returned a trained expert to shed light on when planning your journey: humbled and defeated tourist. China’s idiosyncratic façade. Strange and fascinating, the Throughout my journey, one Coddling Is Key country offers a travel experi- theme remained consistent. I Unlike most other Asian coun- ence unlike any other. experienced the most unusual tries, which have welcomed Although China is the moments when I cut through global tourists for decades, world’s second-largest the chaos and connected with China has remained in a economy and technology individuals on a personal level. bubble until recently, with its

power, only 0.7 percent of its There are so many wrong ways tourism catering exclusively to l a ce; four yun; a m n summer pa a population speaks English. To to see China, but if planned the domestic market. Within many, it seems an exception- correctly, a trip can include the most sophisticated city

ally backward place that’s such rare and special encoun- airport or the most luxuri- t esy a m nf

moving forward at lightening ters that any traveler is sure to ous five-star hotel, a Western cour se a sons wes t l ke; p eninsul b eijing

24 authentic and still charming nightmare in China. This is restaurants in China. Accep- primarily due to the lack of tance of this is the first step to user-friendly public transpor- a successful journey. Luxury tation and heavy traffic in the chains such as Peninsula and major cities. Finding a base Four Seasons dominate the near points of interest—sights, top of the lodging market, shops, restaurants—is essen- and they deliver with great tial. That said, long drives are comfort, elite restaurants, the unavoidable, so bring enter- best service—and, impor- tainment or request wireless

Clockwise: Aman Summer tantly, English-speaking staff. Internet. Palace; the Great Wall; Four After a day of touring with the Seasons West Lake; Peninsula Shanghai; Amanfayun masses, travelers will appreci- Go off the Beaten Path ate ending their day soaking in The hardest-to-reach destina- a palatial bathtub in a heated tions are always the most marble bathroom in one of memorable. A perfect example these fabulous properties. is the stunning mountain- studded land of Tibet, where, Plot Your Itinerary despite years of religious Carefully persecution, the Tibetan Numbering more than one people and region’s sites shine billion and growing, China’s bright as ever. Although the own population constitutes its government regulates tourism traveler will be hard pressed top tourism market. This often into Tibet heavily, the right to find more than a handful means overwhelming masses contacts make a journey to this of English speakers, making at each attraction. What is spiritual part of the world do- ground logistics frustrating. true of all crowded tourism able. Note: Tibetan visas must The do-it-yourself method destinations is even truer in be obtained by a local Chinese of traveling is a recipe for China: Weekdays are prefer- provider, and the government disaster. To create the safest able to weekends; setting out may still refuse entry days and most seamless experience early in the morning to beat before departure. in China, all logistics should be the crowds is recommended; Travelers can also have carefully mapped out. For mul- it’s best to book advance tick- authentic experiences closer tistop itineraries, we typically ets to museums and historical to major cities. Aman Resorts recommend a full-time escort. sights; and behind-the-scenes infuses luxury with the local access is worth the cost for the environment at Amanfayun in Brands Are Better intimacy it provides. Hangzhou and Aman at the For a number of cultural, eco- Summer Palace in Beijing. nomic and political reasons, Pick a Good Location it is difficult to find high-end With very few exceptions, For help planning a trip to China, boutique accommodations or transportation can be a email [email protected].

25 art/culture

The Mikesell’s art-filled master bedroom. Local Legend: Kathryn Mikesell Kathryn Mikesell has been slowly making a difference in Miami’s art world with her Fountainhead programs, which help artists with exposure and creative production.

ot all collectors understand artists, What was the catalyst that prompted you to but Miami residents Kathryn and Dan launch the Fountainhead Residency? NMikesell have made it their mission to We’ve always tried to get to know the artists support and encourage talented young people behind the work we collect. You connect differ- in their energetic city. With the Fountainhead ently with a work when you know the artist and Residency, Studios and Haus, the couple seeks understand the inspirations that lead to its cre- to provide an incubator for creativity and inno- ation. When foreign artists could stay in Miami vation by hosting visiting artists and providing for longer periods, they were able to react to the workspaces for local artists. The Mikesells’ space and produce more ambitious exhibitions. mission to inspire Miami’s artistic development They could give talks about their work, have and bring more ambitious art to the a dialogue with the public, take the city has helped develop the Miami time to meet Miami-based artists to art scene, which now attracts visitors share ideas and inspirations and get year-round—not just in early De- to know Miami from the inside. cember for Art Basel Miami Beach. We’re very proud to have been Here, Kathryn Mikesell shares what able to support many museums, local life is like at Fountainhead and nonprofits, galleries and artists at a how her family has benefitted from time when Miami is growing as an

meeting new artists, as well as her internationally recognized art com- inhe a d residency t esy he foun ta

can’t-miss Miami hot spots. munity. We were also here during the cour

26 downturn in the economy, when funding was off of one another. They share new materials a challenge. Generally speaking, we’ve created or new ways to use traditional materials. They exhibition opportunities for visiting and Miami- brainstorm and problem solve together. based artists, helped institutions realize exhibi- We open the studios to the public twice a tions, supported our local galleries, fostered year. Seeing inside an artist’s studio is a unique critical dialogue in the community and built opportunity, as it personalizes art and offers a relationships with an incredible group of people. rare opportunity to talk one-on-one.

You form relationships with these artists. What is it about Miami that fosters this kind Can you tell us about the most meaningful? of artistic environment? Each of the artists has changed or influenced The people—plain and simple. The climate, our lives in some way. Without the intent in natural beauty and light play a valuable role, but mind, we built a global family. Friends reach out that’s obvious. Miami often gets a bad rap for to us when they’re moving or traveling to a new being superficial and shallow, but that couldn’t city, because there’s no better way to get to know be further from the truth. We’re still very young a place than through the people that live there. as a city, and because of that we need to work We rarely take a trip that doesn’t involve visiting together to grow. artists who have been to the residency. At the end of each artist’s residency, we The most meaningful aspect of the residency schedule studio visits by curators, museum staff, for us personally is what it has given to our chil- gallery owners, artists and collectors. We’ve dren. They’ve met artists from around the world been told by many of our artists that they have who share with our kids their experiences and received more critical feedback during their influences. That education is priceless, and my residency than in the last five years at home. heart aches each time an artist leaves. This dialogue and feedback are crucial to the For the artists, it has created long-term growth of an artist and the development of his friendships that would likely have never hap- or her work. To have this done by respected pened otherwise. Where else do you as an adult people in the community is invaluable. live with strangers and see someone every day in their pj’s, in their studio and at the dinner table? Over the last few months, we’ve had artists from Havana, New York City, Philadelphia, San Kathryn’s Dining Salvador and Tel Aviv. Recommendations Michael’s Genuine 130 NE 40th St.; 305-573-5550 With more than forty artists working there at The Cypress Room 3620 NE 2nd Ave.; 305-520-5197 any one time, what is the atmosphere like at Harry’s Pizzeria 3918 N Miami Ave.; 786-275-4963 Oolite 1661 Pennsylvania Ave.; 305-907-5535 the Fountainhead Studios? Blue Collar 6730 Biscayne Blvd.; 305-756-0366 The studios have an energy that is palpable. Mignonette 210 NE 18th St.; 305-374-4635 You can imagine that, with so many personali- Yardbird 1600 Lenox Ave.; 305-538-5220 ties, anything can happen. We have artists of all Khong River 1661 Meridian Ave.; 305-763-8147 Michy’s 6927 Biscayne Blvd.; 305-759-2001 ages, at different points in their careers and with The Broken Shaker 2727 Indian Creek Dr.; 305-531-2727 vastly different life experiences, and they feed

27 credit T K

28 credit T K

29 Gauchos in San Antonio de Areco credit T K

30 destination report Buenos Aires & Beyond The Indagare Travel team maps out Argentina, a country whose culture combines gaucho influences with old-world traditions and current creativity and entrepreneurship.

o other Latin American country has so the parilla steaks. Many of the country’s great seamlessly blended colonial influences wineries utilize European terroir techniques. Nwith native culture as Argentina. In the Often referred to as the Paris of South Ameri- cities, examples of Spanish colonial architecture ca, Buenos Aires has a population that is mostly abut neoclassical palaces that Italian masons of European origin; as of 1920, it was estimated crafted from Belgian and Austrian marble. that more than 50 percent of porteños, as BA French furniture and gilded objets reside in Art residents are called, had been born abroad. As Deco mansions that sit on wide Haussmann- BA has developed in the last hundred years, so esque boulevards lined with jacaranda trees. too has its culture, but vestiges of its diverse In the countryside, polo estancias that were in- influences remain. Today, it is one of three spired by Andalusian haciendas are often more metropolises (along with Montreal and Berlin) formal, having been constructed by successful named by UNESCO as Cities of Design. It is businessmen who made their fortunes trading filled with art galleries, underground supper such South American commodities as beef. clubs and up-and-coming neighborhoods. The Perhaps because dinner is typically served as economy is suffering, but the resulting low cost late as 10 P.M.—yet another Spanish influence— of living has attracted artists and other creative afternoon tea is common throughout Argentina, types, who have energized the cultural scene. an English tradition that many observe in a Still, there are pockets of great wealth and in- French café. The cuisine in and around Buenos novation, like Faena Universe and MALBA. Aires, Mendoza and Salta is world-class, partly Present-day Argentina is a proud country because of the training that Argentine chefs offering a unique combination of old-world have received around the globe before returning European grandeur, South American soul and to their homeland to practice traditional cook- contemporary, of-the-moment innovation. ing styles using local ingredients. Argentinean For more about the special access Indagare can wine is taken as seriously as (if not more than) arrange, contact us at [email protected].

Book My Trip: The Indagare Advantage

We Know More… We Think More… We Care More… We Do More… We Get More… Our team is con- We are frequent There’s no such Think of us as your We secure special stantly traveling, to travelers and we thing as a “best” advocates who go rates and amenities give you the most pool our knowledge hotel or destination. above and beyond at hundreds of prop- relevant and up-to- and members’ feed- We customize all to ensure that each erties worldwide, date recommenda- back to tweak the your trips based on trip is packed with including upgrades tions and itineraries. details of your trip. your preferences. special touches. and VIP treatment. rí a de t urismo l p rovinci b uenos ires t esy secre ta

cour There is no bookings fee for Indagare members. Contact us at 212-988-2611 or [email protected].

31 destination report: argentina

Left to right: a ridgetop ride at Dos Lunas; a bright facade in BA’s La Boca neighborhood; BA’s capital building

Lay of the Land leta—home to the chicest designer boutiques With both the highest and lowest elevation and top hotels—is centrally located, just west points in South America, Argentina has an of Avenida del Libertador. To the northwest astonishingly diverse topography. The sprawl- lies Palermo and its hip subdistricts. South ing metropolis of Buenos Aires boasts elegant of Recoleta are Microcentro and, to the east, Beaux-Arts architecture and a vibrant nightlife. the burgeoning Puerto Madero district, with Near Argentina’s western border is Mendoza, its strip of waterfront restaurants and hotels. with the country’s best skiing and wine pro- Farther south is the bohemian haunt of San ducers. Salta, in the north, is one of the most Telmo and, south of that, the Italian immigrant picturesque cities in the world and is perfect enclave of La Boca. for those looking to get off the beaten path. The Buenos Aires may be Argentina’s indisputable Swiss-like Bariloche is located in the foothills center of gravity, but the fertile plains known of the Andes, in Argentina’s Lake Region. The as the pampas, which make up much of the lower third of the country is home to Argentine country’s vast interior, have played a pivotal role Patagonia. Stay tuned for Indagare’s Patagonia in its history. Once the domain of gauchos, they black book guide coming in 2015. are now home to cattle ranches and splendid country estates. This region offers a break from Buenos Aires the city and activities like polo. Buenos Aires, although spread out, is easy to International flights land at BA’s Ministro navigate, with the turbid Rio de la Plata sitting Pistarini International Airport (better known as to the east. The fashionable district of Reco- Ezeiza, the city in which it’s located), 21 miles

Argentina Tourist Fee The tourist fee must be paid before arrival by credit card on the Ministry of Immigration Web site (www.migracio- nes.gov.ar), and foreigners must arrive with a printed copy of their receipt. Although the process isn’t difficult or expensive, navigating the site can be frustrating and should not be left until the last minute. t esy dos lun a s cour

32 southwest of the city. For BA, the remote northwestern province travel within Argentina, boasts fascinating geography (and high many (but not all) of the altitude), Spanish colonial architecture, Buenos Aires domestic flights depart from Argentina boutique wineries, rustic regional cuisine, Jorge Newbery Airport, folk music and charming villages that are which is within the city still primarily indigenous. boundaries. Beyond Salta proper, a number of surrounding towns make for good day trips, Mendoza so having a car is ideal. Unfortunately, About a thousand kilometers west of BA, just the roads are often steep, winding and unpaved. shy of the soaring snowcapped Cordón del Plata and the Chilean border, sits Mendoza. Thanks Farther Afield to its glacial rivers and daily temperature ex- San Carlos de Bariloche is a two-hour flight tremes, this semiarid area has established itself from Buenos Aires, but this northern Patagonia as South America’s premier terroir, or wine- region, whose glassy lakes offer a panorama of growing district. Home to some 1,500 wineries, soothing blues and greens, couldn’t feel farther a handful of landmark restaurants and three away from urban clamor. Mild summers and of Argentina’s most cosseting country escapes, fairy-tale winters have made the Argentine Mendoza has become a destination worthy of Lake District a year-round alpine retreat, serious enoturistas. The majority of the vine- beloved by skiers, nature enthusiasts and weary yards extends south from the city of Mendoza city dwellers seeking serenity. Although there along the eastern face of the Andes. are no must-see sights, there is plenty to do: hiking, fishing, kayaking, mountain biking and Salta horseback riding are just some of the ways visi- Adventurous travelers looking for the authentic- tors can enjoy the lovely mountain scenery. In- feeling, less-traveled Argentina should consider dagare members can contact the Bookings Team visiting Salta. Just a two-hour flight from to arrange a few nights in either destination.

33 Buenos Aires Buenos Aires is on everyone’s must-visit list these days—and for good reason. The Indagare Travel team reports on Argentina’s capital, which is experiencing an exceptionally buzzing, fascinating period. Overview STAY A truly multidimensional, modern city, Buenos Palacio Duhau–Park Hyatt Aires boasts rich cultural offerings and top- The Palacio Duhau–Park Hyatt in tier dining, shopping and hotels. In addition, Recoleta represents the best of traditional and residents—including a large population of brand-new Buenos Aires: the palace side of the expats—provide a friendly, warm and welcom- hotel is a restored 1930s mansion, while the ing environment for foreigners. newly constructed adjoining building (where Much of the port city’s charm lies in its jux- nearly all the 165 rooms and suites are located) tapositions. BA is characterized just as much by has a majestic lobby awash in Bordeaux leather the 19th-century aristocratic French architec- and Travertine marble. The gentleman’s-club- ture of the Recoleta district as by the brightly style Oak Bar, a favorite spot with well-heeled painted façades in the working-class and artist locals seeking an aperitivo or nightcap, the enclave La Boca, across town. On any given Vinoteca wine bar and the expansive gardens block, sophisticated, well-dressed, conserva- have a classical feel. The Park Hyatt’s cool brand tive Argentines of European descent mix with of minimalism, meanwhile, is evident in its punky, artsy teenagers. impressive underground art gallery and exhibi-

34 destination report: argentina

tion area, its 8,000-square-foot spa and fitness Epoque–style residence, built as a family home studio (with an eighty-two-foot indoor swim- in 1912, has sleek and modern interiors and a ming pool) and many of the rooms and suites. grand classical façade that has been meticulous- The twenty-three guest rooms in the palace are ly restored. Downstairs sits an elegant bar, an furnished with Persian carpets, silk curtains intimate dining room and a wine cellar, which and antique crystal chandeliers, and those in contains bottles from the Algodon Wine Estates’ the modern tower have a clean, Asian-inspired vineyards in Mendoza. Suites have contem- ambiance. Read Indagare’s hotel review. porary furniture, vast marble bathrooms and the latest technology, from Wi-Fi and plasma Four Seasons Buenos Aires TVs to electronic window shades, iPod docks The Four Seasons property in BA’s Reco- and Nespresso machines. There are no fitness leta neighborhood is housed in a magnificent facilities, but guests receive a complimentary Louis XIII–style mansion built in 1916 and a membership to a modern gym a block away, and somewhat charmless contemporary tower. The the hotel does have a spa and a small rooftop mansion contains seven beautiful suites ideal pool, which is surrounded by a teak deck with for high-rollers, heads of state and celebrities, loungers. Read Indagare’s hotel review. while the 158 rooms in the adjacent modern building are spacious, comfortable, recently Alvear Palace Hotel refurbished and a good option for families. The For a hearty dose of the aristocratic Cielo spa, which offers all-natural treatments, is old-school porteños (“people of the port,” as BA among the city’s best, and the hotel’s restau- residents call themselves) check into Recoleta’s rant, Elena, is a destination for locals as well as opulent Alvear Palace Hotel, a historic five-star guests. There is also a heated outdoor pool in landmark renowned for its superluxe ameni- the garden. Read Indagare’s hotel review. ties and European flair. Hermès toiletries, 500-thread-count Egyptian-cotton linens, daily Algodon Mansion fruit baskets and fresh flowers everywhere are This intimate, luxurious town house hotel, with just a few of the touches that make the Alvear ten palatial suites, is one of the most exclusive Palace popular with traditionalists. A recent addresses in Recoleta. The stunning Belle renovation updated the 210 rose- , beige- and cream-hued Louis XV–style rooms and suites with marble bathrooms and LCD screens above Indagare Plus the in-room hot tubs. Butlers will unpack for Members who book through Indagare guests as well as secure restaurant reservations. receive preferential rates and/or special The hotel’s spa has been refurbished, and the amenities at the properties with the Indagare Plus symbol, as noted throughout this Black gym features top-end equipment. Don’t miss Book magazine. Indagare is also a Preferred cocktails or high tea at the dark, romantic lobby Partner of Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts, bar. Read Indagare’s hotel review. which means that members booking through Indagare receive preferred rates, special Faena Hotel + Universe amenities and VIP treatment at the brand’s properties worldwide. This stunning, avant-garde eighty-eight- room hotel, housed in a century-old former gra-

35 Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt’s garden; a hallway at Faena Hotel; a bedroom in Algodon Mansion

nary in Puerto Madero, is both cutting-edge and area, so some guests may find it a bit out of the historically relevant—21st-century Buenos Aires way. Read Indagare’s hotel review. meets the Belle Epoque. Argentine entrepre- neur Alan Faena and designer Philippe Starck Hub Porteño teamed up to produce Faena Hotel + Universe, This boutique hotel in tony Recoleta is just a which opened its doors in 2004. Rooms and stone’s throw from the Four Seasons and Park suites, including over-the-top residence-style ac- Hyatt but miles away in terms of intimacy. The commodations, are dramatic, with cherry-wood Hub Porteño’s eleven rooms feel like stylish pied- a en ho t el; lgodon m nsion

floors, red-velvet curtains and funky glass- and à-terres: spacious (the smallest measures more ; f mirror-clad bathrooms. The reception area— than five hundred square feet) and furnished att four small desks in front of the elevators—is with a mix of modern and classic design. Even control central, from which the hotel dispatches entry-level rooms have large marble baths with “experience managers,” butlers–cum–personal double vanities and Jacuzzi tubs. The hotel also assistants who attend to guests’ every need. The offers a small fitness room, a leafy rooftop terrace state-of-the-art gym, spa and hammam area is and one of the city’s most avant-garde tasting

divine. Those considering the Faena should note menus at Chef Dante Liporace’s Tarquino res- rk hy l a cio duh u pa t esy pa

that the hotel lies a few miles from the Recoleta taurant. Read Indagare’s hotel review. cour

36 destination report: argentina

EAT multicourse wine-paired dinners in a private home. 5518 Soler; 54-11-4777-9295 A food lover’s city, BA offers a slew of excellent dining options, including classic steakhouses, Casa Felix hip Palermo eateries and upscale Italian trat- Run by husband-and-wife team Diego Felix and torias, thanks to heavy Italian immigration. Sanra Ritten in their Chacarita home, Casa Felix Keep in mind that porteños dine late, so expect is beloved for its vegetable-forward menus. The to have lunch at 2 pm and dinner at 10 pm. five-coursepescetarian dinners always begin with cocktails in the backyard herb garden. 947 Aramburu Giribone; 54-11-4147-8100 Gritty Constitución would seem an unlikely incubator for molecular gastronomy, but Gonzalo Florería Atlántico Aramburu’s kitchen turns out some of the city’s This subterranean restaurant is one of the hot- most imaginative fare. His twelve-course tasting test—and best hidden—cocktail bars in Buenos menu is visually spectacular and often interac- Aires. Enter through a rear door of a flower- tive. 1050 Salta; 54-11-4305-0439 and-record shop. 872 Arroyo; 54-11-4313-6093

Café Tortoni I Latina Yes, it is always filled with tourists, but locals Colombian siblings Santiago, Camilo and Laura also adore Café Tortoni. The grand interiors are Macías, are behind this polished, intimate as they were a century ago, when this was the puerta cerrada, whose Caribbean warmth draws haunt of the city’s great intellectuals. The chur- savvy porteños. Weekend brunch, served only ros and hot chocolate make for a nice mid-day one Sunday a month, is outstanding. 725 Mu- break. Avenida de Mayo; 54-11-4342-4328 rillo; 54-11-4857-0905

Casa Coupage La Cabrera Run by two of Argentina’s most gifted som- Widely considered a less commercial alternative meliers, Casa Coupage is a puertas cerradas to the parrilla (“grill room”) experience, this pe- (“closed-door”) restaurant, offering intimate rennially packed Palermo restaurant serves the same parts of the cow, minus a bit of the theater. 5099 Cabrera; 54-11-4831-7002

Miranda Dinner at this 21st-century parrilla takes place in a soaring loft-style room that feels at once in- dustrial and bustling. The menu features meats but also the unsung heroes of parrilla fare, like provoleta (grilled provolone seasoned with oregano) and the classic parrillada de verduras, t esy a r m ba ru The chefs at Arambaru perfectly charred onion, eggplant and winter

cour squash. 5602 Costa Rica: 54-11-4771-4255

37 destination report: argentina

Patagonia Sur Tarquino Argentine chef-restaurateur Francis Mallmann Chef Dante Liporace, who trained under Fer- lives part-time on the third floor of his tiny La ran Adrià at the famed El Bulli, incorporates Boca restaurant, which has leather walls, heavy molecular gastronomy into an Argentine menu velvet curtains and a library of 2,000 cook- in subtle and delightful ways. The cozy setting, books. The menu channels the Argentine pam- in a vaulted atrium hung with local textiles, is pas with classic cuts like ojo de bife (rib eye), at once both rustic and incredibly cool. 1967 cuadril (tri-tip), vacio (flank steak) andtira de Rodríguez Peña; 54-11-6091-2160 asado (short ribs). 801 Rocha; 54-11-4303-5917 Tegui Sottovoce The hottest restaurant in BA’s hip Palermo Two Argentine brothers opened this family-style Hollywood serves up delicious food to a stylish Italian restaurant in Recoleta. Porteños come crowd. Owner and chef Germán Martitegui has for homemade pastas and traditional dishes long been acknowledged as one of Argentina’s like eggplant parmigiana and tiramisu. 1098 most innovative chefs. But at this, his most ac- Libertador; 54-11-4807-6691 claimed and innovative venture, where the focus is on local, seasonal ingredients, both scene and cuisine exude a new sex appeal. 5852 Costa

La Cabrera Rica; 54-11-5291-3333

Un’ Altra Volta This modern ice-cream shop looks much like a museum store. Locals claim that the creamiest dulce de leche ice cream on the planet is scooped from Un’ Altra Volta’s glass cases. 3060 Avenida del Libertador; 54-81-0888-6582

Getting Around & Safety Taxis in Buenos Aires are easy to find and inexpensive but only enter those marked Radio Taxi, which refers to the presence of a two-way radio that lets drivers take calls from a dispatcher. Although inci- dents of non-radio-taxi services’ robbing or kidnap- ping customers are rare, don’t chance it. If no taxis are available on the street, the staff at any bakery, shop or café is typically happy to call a radio taxi, which usually takes ten to fifteen minutes to arrive. The car service app Uber has also recently come to the city. Buenos Aires is more walkable than it seems, but we recommend that you do not wear any expensive jewelry when strolling in the city and carry only the cash and credit cards that you need immediately. Muggings and pick-pocketing are too frequent to take chances. t esy l a c ab rer cour

38 El Ateneo Centenario

SHOP La Casa de las Botas BA is famous for leather goods and Malbec For a true made-in-Argentina accessory, shop wines, but also fashion, retro household acces- for leather riding boots at La Casa de las Botas. sories and antique furniture. The best shop- The best polo players and royalty have pur- ping is concentrated in three areas: Recoleta chased these exquisitely made boots, which are offers top South American brands; Microcentro stylish enough to be worn with skinny jeans or is home to trendy retailers and tiny custom leggings. 5062 Paraguay; 54-11-4776-0762 leather shops; and Palermo’s boutiques purvey a distinctly Argentine, boho-sexy sense of style. Doma Indagare Tip: even luxury stores offer a hefty Buying a leather jacket in Argentina is a rite discount for shoppers who pay in cash. of passage, and you won’t find better examples than Doma’s colorful collection of unique sil- Airedelsur houettes. 4693 El Salvador; 54-11-4831-6852 Former banker Marcelo Lucini has regional artisans create his famous silver-and-carved- Elementos Argentinos deer-bone trays, candelabras, bags and jewelry. Fernando Bach and Pablo Mendívil established 1695 Vicente Lopez; 54-11-4811-2666 Elementos Argentinos to help economically isolated artisans find a more reliable market Comme Il Faut for their products. All the handmade rugs and When in BA, it’s hard to resist buying a pair of blankets at their cheerful Palermo shop are vid w. these beautiful hand-made stilettos made for responsibly sourced from the country’s remote tango. 1239 Arenales; 54-11-4815-5690 northwest, where textiles have been spindle spun and loom woven for generations. 1881 Fería de San Telmo Gurruchaga; 54-11-4832-6299 Take a taxi to Defensa Street at Plaza Dorrego for the Sunday street fair, dense with merchants Fueguia 1833 Laboratorio de Perfumes selling tango memorabilia and collectibles. Julián Bedel’s wonderfully poetic perfumería Browse the area’s antiques shops and wander is dedicated to the memory of his ancestors, eneo cen t en a rio, credi d t esy el at among street performers on the cobblestoned wayfaring writers and naturalists who left their

cour streets. Plaza Dorrego mark on the world. His collections, which fea-

39 destination report: argentina

ture wild Patagonian botanicals, have a trans- See/Do portive alchemy and their own unique narrative. Buenos Aires boasts a treasure trove of art and 1680 Avenida Alvear; 54-11-4311-5360 some serious sporting events.

Havanna Casa Rosada Havanna sells some of the city’s best dulce de The “pink house,” as the presidential mansion leche, in jars as well as in alfajores, small wafer is known, is a popular destination for visitors sandwiches filled with the caramel-like spread, eager to see the balcony from which Evita spoke. dipped in chocolate and sold by the box. 750 50 Balcarce; 54-11-4344-3600 Avenida del Libertador; 54-11-4814-7450 El Zanjón de Granados Laguanacazul This network of tunnels winding under the Laguanacazul is an innovative project that streets of San Telmo dates back to 1730. The is part gallery, part shop—purveying books, tunnels have been restored and are now a great fashion, jewelry and art—and part community way to literally walk through the city’s history. center for artists. 677 Defensa; 54-11-4342-9863 755 Defensa; 54-11-4361-3002

Marcelo Toledo MALBA Just off Plaza Dorrego sits the showroom of Celebrating the diversity of Latin American master gold- and silversmith Marcelo Toledo. art, MALBA (Museo del Arte Latinoamericano The gallerylike space displays his exquisite de Buenos Aires) contains works by Fernando handmade pieces, including impressive sets of Botero, Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. 3415 steak knives, gorgeous candlesticks and carafes Avenida Figueroa Alcorta; 54-11-4808-6500 and vases with inlays of onyx and intricate carv- ings. 462 Humberto Primero; 54-11-4362-0841 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes The legacy of two 18th-century Argentine fami- Balthazar lies, this museum of decorative arts is housed in Balthazar sells tailored men’s clothing, including what was once a family residence. The collection Italian voile shirts and English alpaca jackets, includes arms, tapestries, sculpture and porce- as well as an array of traditional llama wool lain. Avenida Del Libertador; 54-11-4801-8248 scarves. 1087 Anselmo Arieta; 54-11-4362-4926 Recoleta Cemetery El Ateneo Centenario A testament to the wealth and pride of the fami- BA’s most elegant librería occupies a mag- lies that built BA, this cemetery feels like a small nificent early-20th-century theater that once city of ornate temples. Some are well-tended hosted legendary tango performers like Carlos while others seem haunted. Gardel. Browse the shelves under soaring frescoed ceilings or in one of the balconied Soccer boxes overlooking the velvet-curtained stage, Argentina’s futbol players are considered among now home to the bookstore’s pleasant café. 1680 the best in the world. Indagare members can Avenida Santa Fe; 54-11-4813-6052 arrange for a local guide to explain the customs,

40 Polo; music at the Faena; the historic Casa Rosada

teach the traditional cheers and give back- Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat Collection ground on the players and teams. Works of art from the Fortabat family are exhib- ited in a nearly 75,000-square-foot space under Teatro Colón an enormous glass dome. 141 Olga Cossettini; This historic theater opened in 1904 and is 54-11-4310-6600 home to ballets, operas and concerts. A guided tour is recommended and includes the costume Tango department. 1171 Tucumán; 54-11-4378-7109 Indagare members can contact our team to arrange for tickets to see live tango performances. Fundación Proa This contemporary-art center, set on the river For more information and tips on visiting Buenos Aires, in La Boca, hosts innovative exhibitions. 1929 visit www.indagare.com. Indagare members can contact our Bookings Team for assistance planning journeys Avenida Pedro de Mendoza; 54-11-4104-1000 throughout Argentina. Email [email protected].

Polo Polo matches at Campo Argentino de Polo stadium are generally played at 4:30 p.m., when it’s not so hot for a en ho t el the horses, players or spectators. It’s a fast, fun game to watch. What makes the Argentine Polo Open, which is played in November, so special is that it’s a club-level tournament with professional-quality players: the combined handicap for each four-person team must be between twenty-eight and forty, which means that some teams will have four members with ten-goal handicaps, the top ranking, held by only a handful of players in the world. La Dolfina, the team led by Adolfo Cambiaso, is the league’s most successful. Cambiaso’s La Dolfina apparel brand is the Ralph Lauren sportswear of Argentina. The dress code for polo is smart casual and most spectators sport a sophisticated country look, for example, an elegant uniform of white jeans with a chic lightweight jacket. Contact nci a vik; f t esy es ta Indagare’s Bookings Team to arrange for tickets to a match or a polo lesson. cour

41 Clockwise: Horseback riding, vines and lunch at Casa de Uco; grape picking and winemaking at The Vines; villas at Cavas Wine Lodge credit T K

42 destination report: argentina Magical Mendoza Indagare contributor Cabell Belk spent time in Mendoza, a place synonymous these days with Argentinian wine making, and experienced the region in all its glory—grape related and not.

he provincial capital Mendoza lies a country’s wild frontier. The Vines of Mendoza thousand kilometers to the west of cooperative allows amateurs from around the TBuenos Aires, just shy of the soaring globe to become long-distance winemakers. snowcapped Cordón del Plata and the Chilean Today The Vines boasts owners’ villas as well border. Here a sunbaked sweep of clay and as a resort abounding with amenities including gravel has, thanks to nourishing glacial rivers, a destination restaurant. Guests can harvest established itself as South America’s pre- grapes and take private blending lessons with eminent terroir. Today Mendoza’s dusty desert an enologist. foothills wear orderly ribbons of green, and Accommodations are plush, with wood and the province is home to some 1,500 wineries, a stone reflecting the colors of the skyline visible handful of landmark restaurants and a few of through floor-to-ceiling windows. Furnishings Argentina’s most cosseting country escapes. include stone fireplaces and softly distressed Between the airport and wine region is the leather sofas draped in sumptuous textiles. Read city of Mendoza, a place of gracious plazas, wide Indagare’s hotel review. poplar-lined avenues and colonial-era irrigation canals that deliver snowmelt from the moun- Casa de Uco tains, sustaining its improbable canopy of green. Family-owned and -operated, Casa de Uco occu- The most historic wineries are clustered in pies a lush 800-acre property in the Uco Valley. Luján de Cuyo, less than an hour outside town. Set among lagoons in the foothills of the Andes, Pioneering wine growers are planting in the Uco the resort is an architectural and design marvel, Valley, almost two hours from the city. featuring clean aesthetics throughout the property and within the 16 rooms. All accom- STAY modations boast a glass wall, which provides Cavas Wine Lodge breathtaking panoramics. Located in Luján de Cuyo, Cavas Wine Lodge is Casa de Uco has many activities beyond wine Mendoza’s original hideaway. Accommodations tasting and vineyard touring. Guests can play t & s pa are in freestanding adobe villas set amid rows of tennis, go rafting, spend an afternoon in the spa grapevines. Interiors are relaxed and contem- or hike the surrounding terrain. Read Indagare’s porary, with natural tones, eclectic décor and hotel review. colorful touches. In addition to plunge pools and garden showers, all 17 villas have rooftops EAT with fireplaces and 360-degree views. Lunch: Bodega la Azul The main, Spanish-colonial-style building The Uco Valley’s smallest winery serves the least a s wine lodge; t he vines resor v houses a library, wine cellar, restaurant and a fussy wine-paired lunches in a humble slab of Moorish-style vinotherapy spa. Read Indagare’s concrete among the celebrated vineyards lining hotel review. Route 89. The inside is folksy and warm, bright- ened by tiny wildflowers and turquoise accents. The Vines Resort & Spa Excellent Argentine home cooking is accompa- t esy c a s de uco; The Uco Valley’s first true luxury property nied by La Azul’s lovingly crafted wines. 1399

cour promises viticultural immersion in the wine DV de Uco, Uco Valley; 54-26-2242-2108

43 destination report: argentina

Lunch: Bodega Ruca Malen frontier saloon supplying lonely gauchos with This diminutive spot serves wine-paired lunches provisions, gossip and drinks), El Palenque is in a luminous, serene dining room with floor- ideal for late-night empanadas washed down to-ceiling windows displaying mountain and with a pitcher of house wine. 287 Aristides Vil- vineyard views. The local menu may include a lanueva; 54-26-1429-1814 salad of quinoa, green olives, tart apples and Chardonnay leaves and end with deconstruct- SEE/DO ed alfajores cookies. 7 Ruta Nacional, km 1059 Mendoza’s best vineyards are scattered through- Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo; 54-26-1413-8909 out the province, separated by considerable distances and days seem to slip quickly away. Hot Spot: Siete Fuegos So resist the urge to over-schedule. Three At The Vines Resort restaurant, disciples of winery visits—the third with reservations for a Francis Mallmann use seven distinct open-flame wine-paired lunch—will leave you both full and techniques to cook meats and vegetables, in- fulfilled. By the time you’re sipping your dessert cluding parrilla (on a grill), al rescoldo (inside a wine, you’ll be ready for a siesta, so book a spa mound of smoldering embers) and al infiernillo treatment or find a chaise for the afternoon. (on a shelf between log fires).Ruta Provincial 94, km 11, Tunuyán; 54-26-1461-3910 Luján de Cuyo Vineyards and Wineries One of Mendoza’s oldest wine regions, Luján de Classic Dinner: 1884 Restaurante Cuyo boasts both large and boutique producers. Set inside the Escorihuela winery on the The small but vibrant family-owned Bressia outskirts of town, Francis Mallmann’s 1884 Res- de Vinos (7725 Cochabamba Agrelo; 54-26- taurante is the superstar-chef’s longest-running 1524-9161) is known for masterful blends and venture, dominating Mendoza’s culinary land- its warm spirit; the owners’ adult children are scape for nearly two decades. Request a table in involved in every aspect of the day-to-day opera- the interior courtyard and order burnt carrots tions and greet many guests. Bodegas Benegas and salted chicken, and stone fruit for dessert. (1600 Araoz Mayor Drummond; 54-26-1496- 1188 Belgrano Godoy Cruz; 54-26-1424-2698 0794), a restored turn-of-the-century winery, is noteworthy for its collection of antique ponchos Relaxed but Refined: Azafrán and heirloom winemaking machinery. Owner This classic dinner spot occupies a former spice Federico Benegas is a descendant of one of depot downtown (its name is the Spanish word Mendoza’s most venerable winemaking families. for saffron). Flea-market curios adorn the walls, Achával-Ferrer (2601 Cobos Perdriel) is best braided garlic strands hang from the ceiling, known for its unusual single-vineyard Malbecs. and shelves are lined with bulk spices. The menu is more grown-up than the atmosphere Uco Valley Vineyards and Wineries might suggest, but children are welcome. 765 The Uco Valley is a promising new wine region Avenue Sarmiento; 54-26-1429-4200 on Mendoza’s southern frontier. Michel Rol- land was one of the valley’s seminal investors, Postdinner Hot Spot: El Palenque and visitors to his exclusive Clos de los Siete Designed to evoke an old-fashioned pulpería (a (Clodomiro Silva; 54-26-2242-2054) can learn

44 Corks at The Vines; Azafrán restaurant; views at The Vines

how French winemakers applied European orientation flight of the region’s other popular techniques to Argentine terroir. After tour- varietals. 1194 Belgrano; 54-26-1438-1031 ing boutique producers, you may find their cavernous tank rooms, manned by lab-coated Indagare Tours: Hiking in the Andes analysts, a bit cold, but the project’s role in An active morning in the outdoors can do bringing Argentine Malbec to international wonders to offset days of eating and drinking. notice is indisputable. At the opposite end of Hikers of all fitness levels can find suitable the spectrum is La Azul (1131 San Martin; treks through the precordillera (the foothills of 54-26-2242-3593), the smallest winery in the the Andes), where you can see mountain faces area, with a homey restaurant offering a rustic riddled with scars left by departing glaciers. spin on the wine-paired lunch. If you’d prefer something more formal, book lunch and a tour Indagare Tours: Sunrise Horseback Ride at architectural stunner O’Fournier (Calle Los A 4:30 am trail ride is a beautiful, hushed Indios; 54-26-2245-1579). way to begin the day, as your horse somehow navigates in absolute darkness. Don a poncho The Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room or two—the wearable blankets favored by the This shop in downtown Mendoza stocks, serves gauchos layer well—to ward off the desert cold. and ships small-production wines that are t esy he vines; a z frán hard to track down outside Argentina. Sample Indagare members can contact our Bookings Team for

cour a range of Mendocino Malbecs, or have an assistance planning a trip to Mendoza: 212-988-2611.

45 La Bamba de Areco An excursion to this pedigreed polo retreat, Indagare contributor Cabell Belk notes, provides a revealing glimpse into Argentina’s colonial past.

n hour’s drive from BA, at the end of event, when guests convene at long picnic tables an allée lined with hundred-year-old for a traditional outdoor feast of rustic, flaky Aplane trees, sits La Bamba de Areco. The empanadas, steak with chimichurri, oregano- estancia’s main building was once a post house fleckedprovoleta and plenty of Argentine wine. on the Camino Real, or Royal Road, which Between meals, there are astonishing horse- linked the port of Buenos Aires to the Viceroy- whispering demonstrations or pick-up polo alty of Peru in the 19th century. Low slung and scrimmages; the estancia is home to a cham- flame red with neat white trim, it stands out pionship team and hosts informal chukkers. dramatically from the surrounding pastures and La Bamba’s hardy criollo horses are nearly as emerald-hued polo fields. pampered as its guests, and there are frequent Eleven guest rooms, each named for a differ- parades of returning riders led by a poncho-clad ent celebrity polo pony, feature white, wide-win- gaucho and a troop of merry Labradors. dowed interiors and plush bedding that appeal History buffs should visit the nearby heritage to 21st-century tastes, while antique bed frames, town of San Antonio de Areco. Argentina’s unof- period inlaid dressers and black-and-white-tiled ficial capital of gaucho lore, Areco is home to a bathroom floors situate them beautifully in con- permanent population of legacy craftsmen, in- text. Instead of TVs and telephones, there are cluding master leatherworkers and silversmiths. vintage textiles, art books and soaking tubs. The property is ideal for families with teenage Time on the pampas is measured in meals, children and couples craving a sophisticated and La Bamba’s guests dine like spoiled es- country escape. La Bamba adheres to a strict tancieros. Breakfast is a lavish spread of warm age minimum, even for day-trippers. Children

medialunas, homemade marmalades and dulce under twelve are not permitted. Read Indagare’s t esy l a ba m

de leche. The midday asado is the culinary main hotel review. cour

46 destination report: library

Books & Films

Nonfiction Esperándolo a Tito y otros novel, the riveting crime thriller, set in present-day Buenos Aires, is Americas: The Changing Face cuentos de fútbol (Waiting for equal parts love story and ghost of Latin America and the Carib- Tito and Other Soccer Stories), tale. bean, Peter Winn, 2006 Eduardo Sacheri, 2000 This companion to the PBS TV Sacheri’s endearing tales of soc- Imagining Argentina, Christo- series of the same name exam- cer and friendship make a great pher Hampton, 2003 ines the historical, political, social, read for enthusiastic Spanish-lan- Based on the novel of the same cultural and economic trends in guage students eager to practice name, this movie explores the Central and South America. their reading comprehension. Dirty War and stars Emma Thompson and Antonio Banderas. Evita: In My Own Words, Eva Imagining Argentina, Lawrence Perón, 1996 Thornton, 1987 El hijo de la novia (Son of the This Eva Péron memoir was pub- Thornton’s novel concerns a man Bride), Juan José Campanella, lished years after her death, and whose wife is “disappeared” dur- 2001 many dispute whether she really ing Argentina’s repressive 1970s This warm and witty comedy wrote it, but it provides a fascinat- military dictatorship. about a man’s midlife crisis is set ing perspective. Kiss of the Spider Woman, in 2001 Buenos Aires. Evita: The Real Life of Eva Manuel Puig, 1976 Nueve Reinas (Nine Queens), This layered story, told through Perón, Nicholas Fraser, 1996 Fabián Bielinsky, 2000 An enthralling biography on the conversation of prison mates, Bielinsky’s award-winning film is Argentina’s most famous first lady, explores Marxism, homosexuality a fast-paced crime drama set in who rose from obscure poverty to and the philosophical question of Buenos Aires. control her country. ethical living. Children and Teens The Little School, Alicia Part- Labyrinths, Jorge Luis Borges, noy, 1986 1962 The Disappeared, Gloria Partnoy’s book is a concise, poi- In these short stories by one of Whelan, 2008 gnant account of hope sustained the most important Spanish- Against the backdrop of guerilla in the face of unimaginable cruelty. language authors, readers can feel warfare in 1970s Buenos Aires, Her story played an important role the influence of Buenos Aires on this novel follows a young man in informing the world about the the author’s vivid imagination. who stands up for his political realities of state-sponsored terror- El Túnel (The Tunnel), Ernesto beliefs. For children ages twelve ism during Argentina’s Dirty War in Sabato, 1948 and older. the 1970s. One of the great psychological Argentina—The Land, Bobbie novels of the 20th century, Sa- Night Flight, Antoine de Saint- Kalman and Greg Nickles, bato’s best-known work is short Exupéry, 1932 2000 The celebrated French author and and dark. Making every reader Color photographs take readers aviator penned this memoir about a confidante to its murderer- on a tour of Argentina, from its flying over the Andes to BA. protagonist, El Túnel probes the wet northern forests through condition of both the human soul extreme deserts to breathtaking Fiction and the soul of Buenos Aires. Andean peaks. For children ages nine and up. It Takes Two, Patrizia Chen, Films 2007 Chucaro: Wild Pony of the A story about a disenchanted El secreto de sus ojos (The Secret Pampa, Francis Kalnay, 1993 woman in her 50s who moves in Their Eyes), Juan José Cam- A little Argentine boy, Pedro, from New York to BA and falls in panella, 2009 fights for his dream horse on the love with more than the dance. Based on Eduardo Sacheri’s pampas.

47 Best of Salta Indagare contributor Chadner Navarro reports on the Salta province, a region that packs in adventure, gorgeous architecture, wine and plenty of indigenous culture.

Grace Cafayate

ocated in Argentina’s northwest, just a KKala Boutique Hotel few hours’ drive from the border with Everything at this ten-room hotel, located LBolivia, the Salta region is beloved for its five minutes by car from Salta’s center, exudes mixture of Spanish colonialism, pre-Columbian warmth. The design is quirky, with fuchsia traditions and the city of Salta. This is where walls and oversized dream catchers. The heated European architecture is complemented with outdoor pool is perfect for lounging with wine Andean textures and colors. The area is fasci- in hand and views of the Andes in the distance. nating and feels off the beaten path, but getting Read Indagare’s hotel review. around requires a fair bit of car travel on roads that can be bumpy. Grace Cafayate Three hours from Salta, in the tiny Andean STAY town of Cafayate, this new hotel is part of an House of Jasmines affluent development with championship-level Originally owned by actor Robert Duvall and his golf courses, vineyards and polo fields. The hotel Argentine wife, this secluded property, located features a sleek design, with leather and glass thirty minutes by car from Salta’s city center, is furniture and stone fireplaces. There is also an surrounded by eucalyptus trees, jasmine shrubs excellent gym and spa. Read Indagare’s hotel and fruit gardens that give the intimate ranch review. e at y a bucolic and romantic vibe. Inside, indig- a enous textiles, cowhide rugs and embroidered EAT upholstery add color and texture to the simple La Table antique wood furniture and white-washed walls. House of Jasmine’s restaurant focuses on t esy gr a ce c f Read Indagare’s hotel review. simple local cooking. The rustic chic dining cour

48 destination report: argentina

room, which features an open kitchen, perfectly SEE/DO complements the dishes of grilled asado, tama- 1,000 Steps les and empanadas salteñas. Ruta Nacional N For the best views of Salta, take the scenic path 51, Km 6; 54-38-7497-2002 of about 1,000 steps to the top of San Bernardo Hill. Active locals regularly hike, power walk El Charrua and run up and down the hill. Steak enthusiasts love the wide selection on offer at El Charrua, but more adventurous diners James Turrell Museum can try various preparations of llama and locro, The only museum dedicated to the American a hearty meat, corn and vegetable soup. 221 artist James Turrell is a two-and-a-half-hour Caseros; 54-38-7432-1859 drive from Cafayate. Go at sunset to see Unseen Blue take on an otherworldly cast. 53 Ruta Pro- Cafe del Tiempo vincial, Km 20, Molinos; 54-38-6849-4200 This chic restaurant on Salta’s major thorough- fare for nightlife, sets the mood with plenty of MAAM dark wood, an extensive bar and live jazz music. This archaeological museum near Salta’s main The kitchen can prepare everything from local square showcases the area’s Incan communities. dishes to international cuisine. 901 Balcarce; 77 Bartolomé Mitre; 54-38-7437-0591 54-38-7432-0771 Casona del Molino Patio de la Empanada Peña, a celebration of the region’s folkloric cul- Salteños take great pride in their empanadas, ture through song and dance, involves stomp- which are typically thinner and crispier than ing, clapping and handkerchief waving. This you’ll find elsewhere. Patio de la Empanada is mansion is a popular Peña venue, where locals less a restaurant than a market. Avenida San dance and watch impromptu performances. Martin Dsquina Esteco 1 Luis Burela; 54-38-7434-2835

Salta’s gauchos e at y a t esy gr a ce c f cour

49 destination report: beyond

Beachtime in José Ignacio Thanks to its relatively unspoiled coastline and luxurious hotels, Uruguay’s José Ignacio is as fabulous a beach destination as you can find.

osé Ignacio is to urban-dwelling Argentin- that nevertheless is a ten-minute walk from ians what the Hamptons are to New York- town. Much like its sister properties, Bahia has Jers: a chic retreat from city life that exudes personality and panache. The hotel has rooms in barefoot elegance. Unlike the posh Hamptons, the main building as well as beach bungalows. this tiny beach town on Uruguay’s southern Local art is integrated throughout, from huge coast, a short flight from BA, has a distinctly paintings in eye-popping primary colors in the South American bohemian charm, from its bedrooms to exquisite bathrooms featuring intri- restaurants and shops to its five-star properties, cate tile patterns or a tub carved from a boulder. which are worth a trip by themselves. For those who don’t wish to lounge on the With the exception of the Brazilian-owned sandy beach, four pools offer plentiful space to Fasano, José Ignacio’s high-end hotel scene is enjoy the sunshine. A highlight of the property dominated by the Vik family. The Norwegian/ is its restaurant, La Susana, which is barefoot Uruguayan hoteliers are responsible for some of glamour at its best. Read Indagare’s review. the world’s most unique hotels, three of which reside within minutes from each other here. Estancia Vik The Viks had a vacation home in the Bahia Vik area before buying this 4,000-acre property Opened in 2014, Bahia Vik is the Vik fam- on which they built the estancia, a traditional ily’s third property in José Ignacio, a spacious Spanish colonial structure with white adobe nci a vik t esy es ta

beachfront hideaway in a secluded location walls and a red tin roof. Working with some of cour

50 Left to right: Estancia Vik; al fresco lunch at Parador la Huella; a fire- place and the views at Playa Vik

Uruguay’s top talents, they have created interi- manages to blend in with the natural landscape ors that showcase their passion for art. and boasts “living” rooftops, planted with Uru- Local Uruguayan artists crafted individual- guayan wildflowers. Of the property’s sixcasas ized designs for the twelve suites and master only the one in front has straight-on sea views. suites, making works specific to each. Sculp- The Sculpture building contains four suites as ture, painting and design play an important well as the restaurant, library and pool, which role throughout the property, whether it’s the juts dramatically over the beach and, at night, painted ceiling of the living room, which fea- sparkles with tiny lights that mimic the stars. tures a Google Earth–inspired representation of Each of the suites was designed by a different José Ignacio and Uruguay, or the colorful walls contemporary artist. The shared spaces are of the traditional indoor barbeque. special too, including the outdoor fire pit on the The estancia also encompasses common beach’s edge, a vast wine cellar, game room and spaces, a brick-barreled dining room, a swim- the small spa. During the holidays, when José ming pool, a spa and stables from which you can Ignacio teems with action, Playa Vik is a quiet ride down to the nearby beach. Read Indagare’s haven within walking distance of the buzz. Read hotel review. Indagare’s hotel review. a vik y Playa Vik Fasano las Piedras t esy p l a With Space Age–style buildings and a wild The Fasano is best suited to families and groups cour design, Playa Vik is an ultrasleek hideaway that of friends who want lots to do on site. Set on

51 destination report: beyond

480 inland hectares, the resort offers a nine- zero for beautiful people (many of whom arrive hole golf course, two pools, tennis courts, a spa, on their polo ponies), but the delicious food is an equestrian center and a kids club. There is what makes it so popular. Although some find it also a beach club on the shore of the river that reminiscent of Club 55 in St.-Tropez, La Huella runs through the property. is both chicer and simpler. The scene is cool Rooms are in concrete bungalows and feature and laid back, but getting a table is no easy feat a sexy, stylish décor and sweeping views of the during the high season. Regulars are waved in, countryside. The property evokes an elegant so it’s best to reserve if you are not one of these. private estancia, with lots of charming period The menu offers delicious goat cheese salads, details, such as antique wooden trunks in the grilled steak and fish, as well as pizza, pasta and front hall and a rotary phone in the living room. fresh sushi. Don’t miss the volcano desserts— Some fault the location near Punta del Este, especially the dulce de leche. At lunch the view José Ignacio’s glitzy sister, twenty miles away. of the beach and sea is great, while at night the Read Indagare’s hotel review. atmosphere is much cozier with lots of candle- light. Playa Brava; 598-4486-2279 Top Tables Best for…a buzzing, beachfront lunch Best for…a gourmet night out Parador la Huella El Garzon a s no l p iedr In the town of José Ignacio, this beachfront It may seem strange to find a gourmet res-

eatery is the prime place to come for lunch, taurant run by a celebrity chef at the end of t esy f

but it’s also charming for dinner. It is ground a dirt road in Uruguayan farm country, but cour

52 Left to right: the grounds and pool at the Fasano; the view from Playa Vik’s “The Sculpture”

Francis Mallman has never been conventional. and candles. Convivial groups of families and In Garzón, an inland town about a half-hour friends gather at the long tables surrounding a drive from José Ignacio, Mallman might as bonfire. The specialty of the house is the braised well be called the mayor. He owns much of lamb. Even if you have a reservation, expect to the surrounding land and a small inn, but his wait; no one here is in a rush to leave. Ruta 10, restaurant is what draws elite visitors and food- Km. 185; 598-4248-62273 ies from all over South America. His creative concoctions, like the legendary wood-grilled Best for…comfort food in a homey setting meats and fish, compare in complexity to those La Olada of international culinary wizards Heston Blu- Located on a small side street north of Route 10, menthal and Thomas Keller. Be sure to pick up this charming restaurant has a half dozen tables a bottle of the heavenly olive oil to take home. set under pine trees in the garden and another

a vik Pueblo Garzón; 598-4410-2811 dozen inside with a view of the kitchen. Don’t be y deceived by the rustic look—the chef is a wizard. Best for…a vivacious group meal The menu changes daily, and a blackboard list- Marismo ing the options is brought to the table. A meal Bonfire dining has been raised to a bohemian might include homemade pasta with clams and art form at Marismo, the premiere hot spot cherry tomatoes or a delicious pumpkin ravioli. a s no l p iedr s; during the high season. Reached via a winding Ruta 10, Km. 181.5; 598-4486-2745 t esy f dirt road off Route 10, the romantic restaurant

cour is tucked within a pine forest and lit by torches For more recommendations, visit www.indagare.com.

53 destination report: beyond

Iguazu Falls El Calafate One of the seven natural wonders of the world, For a taste of Argentine Patagonia, El Calafate is Iguazu Falls is a must-see for adventure seekers. a small town near the Perito Moreno Glacier.

Stay Stay The best accommodations are actually on the The 17-room Eolo (above) sits on a remote Brazilian side of the falls, which requires visitors mountainside an hour outside El Calafate, of- from the U.S. to get a visa. Staying on the Ar- fering simple yet luxurious accommodations. gentine side is not as luxurious. At the Belmond The highlight is the views of the surrounding Hotel das Cataratas (in Brazil) guests can visit landscape and the Andes Mountains. Visitors the falls before the park opens to other tourists. spend most of their time outdoors, and because excursions are physically strenuous, Eolo is best Getting There for older teens and adults. Most visitors come via Buenos Aires or Rio de Janeiro, both just two-hour flights from Iguazu. Getting There Daily flights from Bariloche, Buenos Aires and See & Do Ushuaia arrive in El Calafate airport. Two days are recommended to experience the magic of Iguazu, which offers a multitude of See & Do activities and excursions. Daredevils can brave Travelers should stay three or four days. Those heights during a helicopter flight over the falls, eager to see iconic Patagonia won’t want to miss and children enjoy a boat ride that goes up to Glacier National Park, home to Argentina’s the cascading curtain of water. The splendor of famed Perito Moreno and neighboring Upsala the flora and fauna can be taken in during jun- Glaciers. The area also contains a number of gle walks, including night hikes. The Hotel das historic estancias, which are fun destinations for Cataratas’s resident biologist guides monthly horseback rides. Other activities include visiting

tours to the falls to take in the rare phenomenon silversmiths and leatherworkers, helitouring t esy a rgen ini n ouris office; eolo lodge

of a lunar rainbow. and fly-fishing at Roca Lake. cour

54 Bariloche Ongamira Valley Set in northern Patagonia in the Andean foot- Just beyond the chaos of Argentina’s second- hills, Bariloche is a year-round destination. The largest city, Córdoba, lies the scenic Ongamira region, dotted with lakes whose glassy surfaces Valley, home to Dos Lunas, a charming retreat reflect snowy peaks, is ideal for adventure lov- with excellent horseback riding. ers, who want to escape BA’s urban clamor. Stay Stay Occupying a beautifully restored, century-old The area around Bariloche contains a number farmhouse set on close to 6,000 acres, Dos Lu- of estancias offering one-of-a-kind wilderness nas is a hideaway with English style. The accom- experiences. Estancia Arroyo Verde (an hour- modations have tall oak wardrobes, toile linens and-a-half drive from Bariloche) and Tipiliuke and an apartment-style layout with multiple (ten minutes from Chapelco airport) are world- bedrooms, so it is ideal for families. Although renowned for fly-fishing. there is a pool, the facilities are limited.

Getting There Getting There San Carlos de Bariloche Airport is a two-hour Dos Lunas is an hour-and-a-half drive from the flight from Buenos Aires, and multiple airlines Córdoba airport, which has many daily flights offer daily service. from Buenos Aires.

See & Do See & Do Mild summers and scenic winters have made Dos Lunas is all about horseback riding in a the region a year-round alpine retreat. There remarkable landscape. There are excursions are no must-see destinations, but hiking, fish- for riders of all levels, including a visit to the ing, kayaking, mountain biking and horseback site where the Comechingónes Indians fought riding are just a few of the many ways visitors their last battle against the Spanish army. Wild t esy dos lun a s can take in the lovely mountain scenery. Fans of donkeys, goats and foxes are often seen trailside,

cour Zermatt will love the Swiss-style architecture. and the moonlight ride is not to be missed.

55 last word Wine Savvy Clued-in oenophiles tout Argentina as the next wine hot spot. Indagare’s Marley Lynch asks wine specialist Zach Moss to highlight some of the region’s bounty.

ow the fifth-largest wine producer in the see very few big winemakers dominating the world, Argentina is no longer defined market.” That is no longer the case, as Argen- Nsolely by its venerable Malbec. “Argen- tinean vintners have explored higher altitudes, tina has been a difficult wine region for nerds different varietals and alternative methods of to get excited about,” says Zach Moss, the South winemaking. “People are realizing that there’s American specialist and wine buyer at New York a lot being made in Argentina that’s not being City’s Flatiron Wines (flatiron-wines.com). “So made outside of Argentina, and the wines are many different factors have shaped the wine definitely worth having a conversation about,” there, but not ones that wine geeks find sexy. says Moss. Here he selects seven Argentinean For instance, for a while, the government was wines available in the U.S. that deserve a look— giving tax breaks to large landowners, so you’d or a nice pour.

Alto Limay Pinot Noir Joven 2013, $15 “This pick is from Patagonia, essentially Argentina’s closest wine region to the Atlantic, a much cooler, windy area. The wine sees carbonic maceration for about three days before it goes into fermentation, which makes for that light, airy feel.”

Coquena “Cafayate” Malbec 2011, $20 “This wine is produced in the Cafayate region in Salta state, the highest wine region in the world, where vineyards are planted at altitudes of 5,500 feet. Remi- niscent of Russian River Valley Zinfandels, it’s a high-toned, pure style of wine.”

Punta Pays Viognier 2013, $10 en a ; mendel semillon ; ernes t o c at t “Viognier [a white-wine grape variety] can be flabby if not done right, but this one has a bit of Sauvignon Blanc in it. It’s a favorite with people eating Thai food, because it has enough of an orange-blossom note to carry heavily spiced foods.” a s de W einer v Mendel Semillon 2013, $33 “This Semillon is a more serious white wine coming out of Argentina. With just a little bit of oak to it, the wine still has a nice amount of acidity, and is great with an herbaceous dish such as garlic chicken with mojo sauce or pasta with pesto.”

Via Revolutionaria “Brutal” Torrontes 2013, $28 “Matias Michelini is the weirdest and most natural winemaker in Argentina. By

allowing Torrontes juice to sit in contact with its skins for 60 days in an open- ys; vi a revolucion ri ; c topped foudre, he makes a wine with a deep copper color.”

Bodegas y Cavas de Weinert Gran Vino 2004, $32 “The Weinert family immigrated from Germany to Brazil. You don’t see many Argentinian wines from 2004 that have lasted, so this is a game changer for those

who claim Argentina is not capable of producing wines with that depth.” pa coquen a ; p un ta y; t o lim a Ernesto Catena Siesta Brut NV, $18 “Ernesto is the artistic rebel of the Catena family, which is largely credited with putting Argentina’s wines on the map. This one is reminiscent of a southern ap- t esy a l pellation of Champagne—it has a nice opulence to it.” cour

56 credit T K

3 “The next open space was a park in a burst of sunlight, then a boulevard and a glimpse of Europe and the hurry and the fine clothes of people on a busy pavement.” ~Paul Theroux on Buenos Aires

To purchase back issues of the Indagare Magazine ($10 apiece), send an email to [email protected] or call 212-988-2611.

without written permission from the publisher. credit T K