letters from the edge argentina missing

*Argentina From Buenos Aires, Northwest to Wine Country By Nathan Fong

4 taste& travel international April–June 2012 letters from the edge argentina

Argentina Where on Earth

In Argentina Nathan samples gorgeous wines and develops a passion for empañadas.

s I wait until the theatre lights dim and the lush scarlet curtain rises up into the soaring neoclassic proscenium, I marvel at the stunning painted and gold-leafed domed ceiling with Aits brilliant crystal chandelier hovering above the grand audience hall. I’m seated in one of the dress circle boxes, each with six plush cushioned chairs, divided from the other boxes with a short waist-high wall. Each has its own individual ante-chamber partitioned with lush velvet drapes, where I’m sure many indiscretions evolved during the golden age of opera in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Giuseppe Verdi’s Aida was performed to mark the building’s lavish opening. But I’m not sitting in London’s Royal Opera House at

Covent Garden, Vienna’s Staatsoper or

T

ojo R ango ango Milan’s famous La Scala — this is the 104 year old Teatro Colón, located in one of the most beautiful and elegant cities in South America… Buenos Aires.

Main photo Views from the Quebrada de Cafayate highway. inset from top Church in Salta; the colourful buildings of La Boca; missing The gardens and facade of Palacio Duhau; Park Hyatt Buenos Aires; Tango Rojo.

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Main photo Street scene from Salta. inset from top Fried Empañadas; Steak sandwiches from Cafe Bar El Establo

argentina in Buenos Aires.

J rancisco F

rgel A avier

…Most first time visitors liken the city to Paris, Madrid or Barcelona…

This stunning theatre, built over a period of 20 years and you’ll find the new Faena Hotel Universe showcasing opened in 1908, is considered one of the best in the world for its international designer Philippe Starck’s eccentric and acoustics and artistic period design. It is located on Avenida 9 de colourful interiors and the home of Tango Rojo, one of the Julio, an elegant boulevard reminiscent of Paris’ famed Champs city’s most intimate, exhilarating and exciting Tango shows. Elysées, named for Argentina’s Independence Day in 1816. La Boca, one of the oldest barrios known for its early The streets in this thriving and bustling city are lined with Art European immigrant architecture, was built by many of the Deco, Art Nouveau, Neo-Gothic and French Bourbon style original settlers from Genoa, Italy. The neighbourhood is buildings dating from Buenos Aires’ period of urban revival in the renowned for its brightly coloured buildings and pedestrian early 19th century. Most first time visitors liken the city to Paris, streets and for La Bombonera, the home stadium of one of Madrid or Barcelona. Only a small part of this metropolis, the the world’s best known football clubs, The Boca Juniors. Plaza de Mayo, gives any inkling of the city’s Spanish Colonial Nothing is more passionate and endearing to the local beginnings. porteňos than the sport North Americans know as soccer… The majority of Buenos Aires’ population is of Spanish or well, maybe unless it’s tango. This sultry style of ballroom Italian descent, along with other European origins including dancing developed in the small tango clubs and taverns in German, Dutch, Portuguese, British, French, Greek and Croatian. La Boca in the mid 19th century. Like many forms of popular The city is divided into 48 barrios or districts, the most popular music, this style of dance was initially associated with the being Palermo, with its chic restaurants, cafes and shops, and the underclass but quickly spread, becoming Argentina’s best downtown residential neighbourhood and cultural centre of known dance and music form. Recoleta, with its stunning historical architecture, classic hotels, If it’s Spanish Colonial architecture and wine you’re after, mansions and museums and the famed Recoleta Cemetery, you’ll need to leave the city and head north to Mendoza and where Eva Peron is buried. Not all is old in this cultural city. Cafayete. Mendoza, capital city of Mendoza Province, is Puerto Madero, built on the former 19th century shipping port, is located in a high altitude valley in the eastern foothills of the the newest district in the Argentinian capital, with luxury sky- Andes. Only about four percent of the Province is cultivated scraping condo towers, hipster restaurants and glamourous but it produces nearly two-thirds of the country’s wine. Here hotels standing alongside early 20th century warehouses. Here you’ll find the rich full-bodied Malbecs that have become

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Makes about 36 appetizers filling or 12 dinner size empañadas Canola Oil Empañadas al Horno 2 Tbs Onions 3 medium,

Baked Meat Turnovers chopped argentina

Garlic There’s always been controversy 2 cloves, among South American countries as to finely chopped who created this popular pastry. The Salt Brazilians credit the Portuguese; others 1 tsp believe the Spanish brought them to Lean Ground South America. In my travels, I’ve come Beef across variations in the pastry dough, 1 lb from rich short crust to flakey puff and Ground Cumin 1 Tbs simpler doughs made with lard or butter. Fillings range from meat, fowl, seafood Paprika 2 ½ tsp and cheese to vegetables. Cooking methods influence the taste, from the Dried Oregano 1 tsp, crumbled slight smokiness of a wood fired oven, to Freshly Ground the crispness of deep fried. Black Pepper Here is Finca Adalgisa chef Cristina ¾ tsp Brino’s wonderful recipe. She teaches Tabasco or Hot intimate cooking classes at this Sauce Cook charming inn and winery in Mendoza, 1 Tbs showing guests how to make, fold and Beef Broth bake the perfect empañada. ½ cup it All Purpose Flour surface roll each portion into a 6-inch 1 Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium 1 Tbs heat. Add the onions and garlic and sauté circle. If making appetizer size, divide each Seedless until translucent, about 4 to 5 minutes. of the 12 portions into 3 smaller portions Raisins and roll each into a 4-inch circle. (optional) 2 Increase heat to medium-high and add the 1/3cup meat, breaking it up, sautéing until it loses 5 Stir in the raisins if using into the meat DOUGH its pink colour. Add the paprika, cumin, mixture. Lightly brush the edge of half All Purpose Flour oregano, pepper and Tabasco. Season to of the pastry circle with the egg white 4 cups taste. Add the beef broth and cook for a mixture. Place about 2 ½ to 3 Tbs of the filling in the centre if making dinner sized, Baking Powder few minutes until the meat absorbs some 1 Tbs of the liquid. Sprinkle in the flour and or 2 tsp to 1 Tbs of the filling if making cocktail sized. Fold the circle over to form Salt cook until it thickens. Let cool, cover with 1 tsp plastic wrap and refrigerate. a half moon and press the edges firmly. Brush the top with the egg white mixture. Cold Lard or Process the flour, baking powder and salt in Unsalted Butter 3 Fold the rounded edge over ½ an inch, ½ cup, cut into a food processor for about 3 seconds. Add making 4 to 5 separate folds, overlapping 1" dice the butter and shortening and pulse until each other, to create a rope effect. Brush Vegetable the mixture resembles cornmeal. With the folds with the egg white mixture and Shortening the processor running, add the warm milk transfer to a baking sheet lined with ½ cup, chilled, cut through the feed tube and process until the parchment paper. Repeat with remaining into 1" pieces dough almost forms a ball. Transfer to a pastry dough and filling. Warm Milk 1 cup lightly floured surface and knead for a few Preheat oven to 375°F. Prick the top of the seconds. Cover with plastic wrap and allow 6 Egg White empañadas once with a fork and bake until from 1 large egg, to rest for ½ an hour. lightly golden, about 20 minutes. Remove beaten with 1 Tbs cold water 4 Form the dough into an even log and from oven and allow to cool 5 minutes cut into 12 portions. On a lightly floured before serving.

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taken over the winery and expanded into wine tourism, opening a restaurant, a visitor’s centre and growing and producing high quality olive oil. argentina You’ll also find brilliant wines from the oldest family-owned winery in the Luján region, the 110 year old Bodega Luigi Bosca winery owned by the Arizu family. This impressive and expansive winery owns seven vineyards and exports to over 50 countries. In addition to the major regional varietals such as Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the winery also produces stunning sparkling wines, such as Brut, Brut Nature and Prestige- Rosé, as well as superb blends. Nestled in the foothills of the Andes are the famed contemporary Clos de los Siete wineries in the Uca Valley and the ultra modern concrete and glass architecture of Bodega DiamAndes. Set at an altitude of about 1000 metres above sea level, Bodega DiamAndes is a single vineyard producing mainly Malbec, Cabernet and Merlot, but also synonymous with Argentina, along with Tempranillo, Cabernet white grape varieties such as Chardonnay and Viogner. The Sauvignon and Chardonnay. This immense region, considered a wonderful terroir and the ideal climate, combined with the desert valley, was once inhabited by the indigenous Huarpes, French owner’s savoir-faire and the experience of his Puelches and Incas. It was the Huarpes who devised the Argentinean team, produce great wines for keeping. Their fine irrigation system, built by the Spanish, that turned Mendoza aromas, complexity and balance seduce wine lovers all over into an oasis and the province’s major region for wine and olive the world. production. Not all of Mendoza’s wineries are vast vineyards producing This colonial city is centred around the lush tree-shaded millions of cases. Many are small family-run boutique bodegas, Plaza Independencia, surrounded by period mansions, such as the third generation Bodega Furlotti, which produces restaurants and government buildings. It comes alive at night superb Soluna wines. This small five-acre winery is also home when locals promenade through the square, which turns into a to Mendoza’s first boutique hotel and estate winery, Finca th night market for artisans selling regional handicrafts and a Adalgisa, housed in an early 20 century manor house and vineyard, located some 20 minutes outside Mendoza City. …Here you’ll find the rich full- bodied Malbecs that have become synonymous with Argentina…

showcase for musicians and political demonstrations. Walking along tree-lined avenues and quaint pedestrian streets lined with cafes and fountains, it’s hard to believe you’re in the middle of a desert. In contrast to the hectic, organized chaos and traffic of Buenos Aires, Mendoza is tranquil and reminds me of the wine towns in Napa, on a larger scale. Mendoza’s main wine regions are situated in two major wine growing appellations — the Maipú-Uco and the Luján. In the wine rich Maipú, you’ll find stellar wineries, such as the vineyards of Familia Zuccardi. Since the early 1960’s the Main photo Night Scene in Mendoza City. above The Zuccardis, who originally immigrated from Italy, have built a vineyards and cooking school at Finca Adalgia in successful name with their production of ultra premium wines. Mendoza. facing page The Anfiteatro rock canyon In the past decade, the fourth generation of this family has Quebrada de Cafayate.

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…Following a winding riverbed, we

drive through argentina red stone mountains and dramatic canyon passes… missing

Eleven intimate guest rooms nestle among the vineyards and fruit trees, making Finca Adalgisa one of the region’s most Cook romantic hideaways, where you can relax poolside or take part in personalized cooking classes by the resident chef. Flying further northwest to the province of Salta and its it well-preserved Spanish colonial capital, I’m impressed by the old colonial architecture and the neo-classical cathedral on Salta’s central square. Smaller than Mendoza, Salta’s intimate charm has made it one of Argentina’s main tourist destinations yields about 2 cups and a gateway to the dramatic natural canyons of Calchaquíes and the wine tourism town of Cafayate. Because of the high altitude and low-humidity of this Chimichurri important valley, the quality and originality of the wines produced is outstanding, especially those made with the herb salsa prominent torrontés grape. Cafayate is charming, with artisans, colonial wineries and a town square set in the foothills of the This indispensable condiment accompanies Andes. But the 183 kilometre Quebrada de Cafayate highway Argentine asados (grilled meats). The sauce linking Salta and Cafayate is one of the most impressive sights varies from region to region but is always made I’ve ever seen on my travels. Following a winding riverbed, we with plenty of parsley. It can be made thick as drive through red stone mountains and dramatic canyon an accompanying salsa or thin as a marinade passes of Herculean proportions. Reminding me of Arizona’s for meats, poultry or fish. Sedona but on a much grander scale with its caves, buttes, and natural stone fortresses, the drive alone is worth the visit to this wine region. Italian Parsley Garlic 1 cup (packed) 3 cloves, coarsely One of the oldest vineyards and wineries in the valley is chopped Vasija Secreta, established in the late 18th century. Its white- Fresh Thyme washed colonial buildings showcase contemporary wine Leaves Crushed Red 1 tsp Pepper making technology and house museum relics and a restaurant. ¾ tsp Across the way is the newer El Esteco Winery, founded in 1892. Olive Oil ½ cup Ground Cumin Producing international quality, award-winning Michel Torino ½ tsp Wines, the winery is known for hand-harvested vintages such Red Wine as the Don David reserve range and the iconic Altimus blend. Vinegar Salt 1/3 cup ½ tsp The winery expanded in 2005 to accommodate the growing wine tourism industry, opening the Patios de Cafayate Hotel Fresh Cilantro Sugar ¼ cup (packed) a pinch and Spa, with luxurious guest rooms, a golf course and a full spa featuring treatments focused on wine, such as a moisturizing massage with grape pulp and wine body wraps. 1 Place all ingredients into a blender or food The wines I discovered in Argentina were a perfect match processor and process until well blended. for the country’s Mediterranean influenced cuisines, from the Allow to sit for a couple hours before serving. meat-laden Argentinian barbecues called asados to the

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Serves 6 Cook Asado Braseado en vino Malbec it short-ribs braised in Malbec with Gremolata argentina Dolli Irigoyen is an Argentinian celebrity chef who has done it Beef short-ribs all — restaurants, television, cookbooks and catering spectacular 6 large, bone-in, private events. Here she shares a wonderful slow cooked beef trimmed of excess fat, short-ribs braised in Argentina’s superb Malbec. about 8–10 oz each missing Olive Oil 2 Tbs

Onions 2, coarsely chopped

Garlic 6 cloves, chopped

Carrots 2, peeled and cut into ½" dice

Leeks 2 (white part only), cleaned and cut into ½" dice

Malbec 750 ml bottle

Beef Stock 2 cups

Bouquet Garni 1

Sea Salt and Freshly Ground 1 Preheat oven to 300°F. Season the short-ribs with salt and pepper. Black Pepper to taste 2 Heat a large Dutch oven or heat proof casserole over medium-high heat. Add 1 Tbs olive oil and add the short-ribs a few at a time, so not gremolata to crowd, searing all over. Remove and set aside. Add the remaining Blanched Slivered olive oil and sauté the onions and garlic for a minute or until Almonds fragrant. Add the remaining vegetables and sauté 3 to 4 minutes or ¼ cup until they start to colour. Italian Parsley 1 bunch, cleaned, 3 Transfer back the short-ribs and pour in the wine, beef stock and dried well bouquet garni. Season. Bring to a boil, cover the pot first with foil Preserved Lemon then the lid to ensure a tight fit. Transfer to the oven and bake for 2 1, coarsely chopped to 3 hours or until the meat is tender. (optional) Lemon Zest and 4 Remove short-ribs from the Dutch oven and set aside, cover with Juice foil and keeping warm. Return the pot to medium-high heat and of 1 lemon reduce the braising liquid until a good jus consistency, about 10–15 Extra Virgin minutes, degreasing the fat. Strain into a small saucepan and keep Olive Oil warm. Season to taste. ¼ cup Crushed Red 5 To make the gremolata, toast the almonds in the oven until light Pepper Flakes golden. Finely chop the almonds, parsley, preserved lemon, lemon ½ tsp zest and red chili flakes and place into a small mixing bowl. Mix in Sea Salt and olive oil and season. Freshly Ground Black Pepper 6 To serve, place short-rib on a warm serving plate, drizzle with jus to taste and serve with gremolata.

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Visit ticket to argentina: it

Travel Notes argentina missing Buenos Aires Palacio Duhau: Park Hyatt main photo View from Quebrada de Cafayate above The asado Buenos Aires from Familia Zuccardi in Mendoza. www.buenosaires.park.hyatt.com NH Tango Hotel www.nh-hotels.com savoury empañadas filled with meat or cheese, and sweet dulces de leche. It takes some getting used to the typical dinner time in Faena Hotel & Universe Argentina, which usually starts mid evening (9pm is much too www.faenahotelanduniverse.com early, 10–11pm is the norm!). Carnivores will love asado, a massive Design CE multi-course barbecue of meat, typically starting with grilled www.designce.com chorizo sausages, sizzling hot off the grill and bursting at the seams with searing fat, blood sausages and crisp mollejas Axel Hotel Buenos Aires & (sweetbreads), followed by a main course of chicken, lamb, goat Urban Spa and a myriad cuts of beef, accompanied with chimichurri, the www.axelhotels.com/buenosaires brilliant sauce of fresh herbs, garlic and vinegar. With the strong historical Italian influence, you’ll also find Tango Rojo breaded milanesas, thin crust pizzas, pastas and gelatos. In the www.tangorojo.com Northwest, influenced by the important indigenous crops of corn, quinoa and potatoes, you’ll find hearty regional stews called locro, cazuelas (casseroles) and cornhusk wrapped parcels called humitas, somewhat similar to Mexican tamales. The popular empañada is found everywhere and varies from region to region, ParkMendoza Hyatt with various shapes, deep fried or baked in an electric or wood- www.mendoza.park.hyatt.com fired oven, stuffed with finely minced or chunky meats, potatoes, Diplomatic Hotel cheese, or eggs and raisins. I had to try them whenever I saw www.diplomatic.parksuites.com them, to see who made the best… so much so I felt my body Finca Adalgisa shape was turning into an empañada! www. fincaadalgisa.com Argentina is a vibrant and beautiful country infused with both Old and New World charm, from architecture and design to food Familia Zuccardi and wine. It’s a country of contrasts with geography ranging from www.familiazuccardi.com lush temperate climates, pampas grasslands and arid desert to Bodega Luigi Bosca snow-capped rugged mountain terrain. It’s a country with a long www.luigibosca.com and colourful political history and an exciting travel destination that’s just now coming into its own. Bodega DiamAndes www.diamandes.com

Vancouver born Nathan Fong segued from cooking and catering to a brilliant career HCafayateotel Killa Cafayate as a food and props stylist for culinary print www.killacafayate.com.ar and film advertising, with a distinguished international client list. He is celebrating his Bodega Vasija Secreta 22nd year as television host for his food and www.vasijasecreta.com travel segments on GlobalTV and a columnist Bodega El Esteco for The Vancouver Sun and writes his www.micheltorino.com.ar Click popular blogs at vancouversun.com Bodega Amalaya (what’s cooking) and fongonfood.com www.amalaya.com it April–June 2012 taste& travel international 11 letters from the edge

inset from top Tango Rojo; Beunos Aires. missing argentina Cook Serves 4 steaks it Beef Tenderloin with Garlic Cream and Chimichurri Beef Tenderloins 4 x 6 oz each This simple steak recipe is is from the elegant Duhau Restaurante Fresh Thyme & Vinoteca at the historic Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt Buenos Aires. Leaves The steak is accented by a delicate roasted garlic cream and finely chopped, 1 tsp Argentina’s favourite accompaniment, chimichurri. Fresh Rosemary finely chopped,½ tsp P alacio D uhau P Sea Salt 1 tsp

Freshly Ground ark H yatt Black Pepper ½ tsp

Olive Oil 1 Tbs

Garlic Cream

Garlic 5 heads

Olive Oil 2 Tbs

Sea Salt and missing Freshly Ground Black Pepper to taste

for the Garlic Cream Whipping Cream ¼ cup, scalded 1 Preheat oven to 400°F. Cut off the top quarter inch of the garlic

heads, leaving the head intact and place on a piece of aluminum T ango Rojo foil. Drizzle with olive oil and season. Seal foil tightly and bake for 30–35 minutes or until cloves are soft. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Squeeze out roasted garlic from the individual cloves and place into a small saucepan. Add scalded whipping cream and puree with an immersion blender until you have a smooth thick sauce. Set aside keeping warm. missing for the steaks

1 Preheat oven to 450°F. In a small mixing bowl, combine herbs, salt and pepper. Season the tenderloin with the mixture and allow to sit for 10 minutes. Heat a grill pan or skillet over high heat and add the olive oil. Add the tenderloins and sear one side until caramelized and brown, then turn over onto other side. Place pan into preheated oven and finish cooking until desired doneness. Remove, lightly cover with foil and set aside to rest 10 minutes. missing 2 To serve, place steaks on warm serving plates and serve with a dollop of garlic cream and a drizzle of chimichurri.

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