From Buenos Aires, Northwest to Wine Country Missing
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LETTERS FROM THE EDGE ARGENTINA missing *Argentina From Buenos Aires, Northwest to Wine Country BY NATHAN FONG 4 TASTE& TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL April–June 2012 LETTERS FROM THE EDGE ARGENTINA Argentina Where on EARTH In Argentina Nathan samples gorgeous wines and develops a passion for empañadas. S I WAIT UNTIL THE THEATRE LIGHTS DIM and the lush scarlet curtain rises up into the soaring neoclassic proscenium, I marvel at the stunning painted and gold-leafed domed ceiling with Aits brilliant crystal chandelier hovering above the grand audience hall. I’m seated in one of the dress circle boxes, each with six plush cushioned chairs, divided from the other boxes with a short waist-high wall. Each has its own individual ante-chamber partitioned with lush velvet drapes, where I’m sure many indiscretions evolved during the golden age of opera in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Giuseppe Verdi’s Aida was performed to mark the building’s lavish opening. But I’m not sitting in London’s Royal Opera House at Covent Garden, Vienna’s Staatsoper or T OJO R ANGO ANGO Milan’s famous La Scala — this is the 104 year old Teatro Colón, located in one of the most beautiful and elegant cities in South America… Buenos Aires. MAIN PHOTO Views from the Quebrada de Cafayate highway. INSET FROM TOP Church in Salta; the colourful buildings of La Boca; missing The gardens and facade of Palacio Duhau; Park Hyatt Buenos Aires; Tango Rojo. April–June 2012 TASTE& TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL 5 LETTERS FROM THE EDGE MAIN PHOTO Street scene from Salta. INSET FROM TOP Fried Empañadas; Steak sandwiches from Cafe Bar El Establo ARGENTINA in Buenos Aires. J RANCISCO F RGEL A AVIER …Most first time visitors liken the city to Paris, Madrid or Barcelona… This stunning theatre, built over a period of 20 years and you’ll find the new Faena Hotel Universe showcasing opened in 1908, is considered one of the best in the world for its international designer Philippe Starck’s eccentric and acoustics and artistic period design. It is located on Avenida 9 de colourful interiors and the home of Tango Rojo, one of the Julio, an elegant boulevard reminiscent of Paris’ famed Champs city’s most intimate, exhilarating and exciting Tango shows. Elysées, named for Argentina’s Independence Day in 1816. La Boca, one of the oldest barrios known for its early The streets in this thriving and bustling city are lined with Art European immigrant architecture, was built by many of the Deco, Art Nouveau, Neo-Gothic and French Bourbon style original settlers from Genoa, Italy. The neighbourhood is buildings dating from Buenos Aires’ period of urban revival in the renowned for its brightly coloured buildings and pedestrian early 19th century. Most first time visitors liken the city to Paris, streets and for La Bombonera, the home stadium of one of Madrid or Barcelona. Only a small part of this metropolis, the the world’s best known football clubs, The Boca Juniors. Plaza de Mayo, gives any inkling of the city’s Spanish Colonial Nothing is more passionate and endearing to the local beginnings. porteňos than the sport North Americans know as soccer… The majority of Buenos Aires’ population is of Spanish or well, maybe unless it’s tango. This sultry style of ballroom Italian descent, along with other European origins including dancing developed in the small tango clubs and taverns in German, Dutch, Portuguese, British, French, Greek and Croatian. La Boca in the mid 19th century. Like many forms of popular The city is divided into 48 barrios or districts, the most popular music, this style of dance was initially associated with the being Palermo, with its chic restaurants, cafes and shops, and the underclass but quickly spread, becoming Argentina’s best downtown residential neighbourhood and cultural centre of known dance and music form. Recoleta, with its stunning historical architecture, classic hotels, If it’s Spanish Colonial architecture and wine you’re after, mansions and museums and the famed Recoleta Cemetery, you’ll need to leave the city and head north to Mendoza and where Eva Peron is buried. Not all is old in this cultural city. Cafayete. Mendoza, capital city of Mendoza Province, is Puerto Madero, built on the former 19th century shipping port, is located in a high altitude valley in the eastern foothills of the the newest district in the Argentinian capital, with luxury sky- Andes. Only about four percent of the Province is cultivated scraping condo towers, hipster restaurants and glamourous but it produces nearly two-thirds of the country’s wine. Here hotels standing alongside early 20th century warehouses. Here you’ll find the rich full-bodied Malbecs that have become 6 TASTE& TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL April–June 2012 JULES STONESOUP LETTERS FROM THE EDGE MAKES ABOUT 36 APPETIZERS FILLING OR 12 DINNER SIZE EMPAÑADAS Canola Oil Empañadas al Horno 2 Tbs Onions 3 medium, BAKED MEAT TURNOVERS chopped ARGENTINA Garlic There’s alWAYS BEEN CONTROVERSY 2 cloves, among South American countries as to finely chopped who created this popular pastry. The Salt Brazilians credit the Portuguese; others 1 tsp believe the Spanish brought them to Lean Ground South America. In my travels, I’ve come Beef across variations in the pastry dough, 1 lb from rich short crust to flakey puff and Ground Cumin 1 Tbs simpler doughs made with lard or butter. Fillings range from meat, fowl, seafood Paprika 2 ½ tsp and cheese to vegetables. Cooking methods influence the taste, from the Dried Oregano 1 tsp, crumbled slight smokiness of a wood fired oven, to Freshly Ground the crispness of deep fried. Black Pepper Here is Finca Adalgisa chef Cristina ¾ tsp Brino’s wonderful recipe. She teaches Tabasco or Hot intimate cooking classes at this Sauce Cook charming inn and winery in Mendoza, 1 Tbs showing guests how to make, fold and Beef Broth bake the perfect empañada. ½ cup it All Purpose Flour surface roll each portion into a 6-inch 1 Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium 1 Tbs heat. Add the onions and garlic and sauté circle. If making appetizer size, divide each Seedless until translucent, about 4 to 5 minutes. of the 12 portions into 3 smaller portions Raisins and roll each into a 4-inch circle. (optional) 2 Increase heat to medium-high and add the 1/3 cup meat, breaking it up, sautéing until it loses 5 Stir in the raisins if using into the meat DOUGH its pink colour. Add the paprika, cumin, mixture. Lightly brush the edge of half All Purpose Flour oregano, pepper and Tabasco. Season to of the pastry circle with the egg white 4 cups taste. Add the beef broth and cook for a mixture. Place about 2 ½ to 3 Tbs of the filling in the centre if making dinner sized, Baking Powder few minutes until the meat absorbs some 1 Tbs of the liquid. Sprinkle in the flour and or 2 tsp to 1 Tbs of the filling if making cocktail sized. Fold the circle over to form Salt cook until it thickens. Let cool, cover with 1 tsp plastic wrap and refrigerate. a half moon and press the edges firmly. Brush the top with the egg white mixture. Cold Lard or Process the flour, baking powder and salt in Unsalted Butter 3 Fold the rounded edge over ½ an inch, ½ cup, cut into a food processor for about 3 seconds. Add making 4 to 5 separate folds, overlapping 1" dice the butter and shortening and pulse until each other, to create a rope effect. Brush Vegetable the mixture resembles cornmeal. With the folds with the egg white mixture and Shortening the processor running, add the warm milk transfer to a baking sheet lined with ½ cup, chilled, cut through the feed tube and process until the parchment paper. Repeat with remaining into 1" pieces dough almost forms a ball. Transfer to a pastry dough and filling. Warm Milk 1 cup lightly floured surface and knead for a few Preheat oven to 375°F. Prick the top of the seconds. Cover with plastic wrap and allow 6 Egg White empañadas once with a fork and bake until from 1 large egg, to rest for ½ an hour. lightly golden, about 20 minutes. Remove beaten with 1 Tbs cold water 4 Form the dough into an even log and from oven and allow to cool 5 minutes cut into 12 portions. On a lightly floured before serving. April–June 2012 TASTE& TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL 7 LETTERS FROM THE EDGE taken over the winery and expanded into wine tourism, opening a restaurant, a visitor’s centre and growing and producing high quality olive oil. ARGENTINA You’ll also find brilliant wines from the oldest family-owned winery in the Luján region, the 110 year old Bodega Luigi Bosca winery owned by the Arizu family. This impressive and expansive winery owns seven vineyards and exports to over 50 countries. In addition to the major regional varietals such as Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the winery also produces stunning sparkling wines, such as Brut, Brut Nature and Prestige- Rosé, as well as superb blends. Nestled in the foothills of the Andes are the famed contemporary Clos de los Siete wineries in the Uca Valley and the ultra modern concrete and glass architecture of Bodega DiamAndes. Set at an altitude of about 1000 metres above sea level, Bodega DiamAndes is a single vineyard producing mainly Malbec, Cabernet and Merlot, but also synonymous with Argentina, along with Tempranillo, Cabernet white grape varieties such as Chardonnay and Viogner. The Sauvignon and Chardonnay.