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MENDOZA’S FREE MAGAZINE Nº74 AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2015

Pinot Noir

What to do in Mendoza

BIODYNAMIC WINES THE LOST CITY OF QUILMES Mendoza Winery Guide

www.wine-republic.com 1 2 3 contents

News Republic Cafayate Exit Polls...... 6 The wine town of Cafayate, Salta...... 14 Down Under Coffee...... 6 The Lost City Silver Lining...... 6 Ruins of Quilmes...... 20 Southern Noir Out & About Learning about Pinot Noir ...... 8 Dining out...... 26 The Cosmos in a bottle Winery Guide...... 28 Grabbing biodynamic wines...... 10 Bars...... 31 Wishlist Maps & More Biodynamic Wines...... 12 Useful information...... 33 Maps of Maipú and Chacras de Coria...... 33 Map of Mendoza City Center...... 34

Katharina - Entre Cielos Restaurant CREDITS Issue August - September 2015 | ISSN 1853-9610 - 10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A. Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3. Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613 E-mail: [email protected] Editor: Charlie O’Malley Assistant Editor: Emilie Giraud. Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gómez Rus: [email protected], [email protected] Design: Circlan.com . Gimena Federici - Jona Conti. [email protected]. Printer: Artes Gráficas UNION Contributing Authors: Emilie Giraud, Mariana Gómez Rus y Sofia Elena Illustrations: Donough O’Malley, www.pencilrobot.net Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic. www.wine-republic.com

4 Cafayate The wine town of Cafayate, Salta...... The Lost City Ruins of Quilmes...... Out & About Dining out...... Winery Guide...... Bars...... Maps & More Useful information...... Maps of Maipú and Chacras de Coria...... Map of Mendoza City Center......

5 NEWS REPUBLIC

Exit Polls This big election year in Argentina is particularly active as it includes newly introduced primaries. Already residents of Buenos Aires have traipsed 3 times to the poll booths to decide their mayor and still have the provincial and presidential primaries, elections and run- offs to endure. This means your average resident will potentially vote 9 times this year on 9 different dates, all of which are forced marches as voting is compulsory in Argentina. This writer salutes such robust democracy- in-action but also laments the fact that such a rush to the polls has caused a literal landslide in his own wine consumption. The sale of alcohol is strictly forbidden on all election days and already we have endured three days of closed wineries because of the polling. Next to repealing the law, imposed apparently to prevent rioting, we can only beseech the locals to get on with it, and restart the flow of alcohol.

Down Under Coffee Mendoza does not lack cafes but it does lack good quality coffee houses with gourmet beans and professional baristas. This is one of the reasons two Australians transplanted themselves here and opened a slice of the thriving Melbourne café world. The newly opened Melbourne Coffee Co offers everything for the coffee aficionado in a welcoming, elegant setting that includes a courtyard with hummingbird. The bustling noise of X the traditional Mendoza café is replaced with zen-like tranquility and the layout of the coffeehouse includes private salons for those who want to work or chat in peace. As well as delicious latte and iced coffee they also offer sweet pastries and cakes.

Melbourne Coffee Co. Peru 1136, Tel. 0261 211 2100

Silver Lining

A snow storm in late July dumping almost 2 meters of snow on the mountains has caused the usual havoc - stranded tourists and angry truck drivers. However such copiuos amounts of snow has also meant an auspicious start to the ski season which has suffered in recent years from lack of snowfall. The recent blizzards - it snowed for three days non-stop in Las Leñas, has been the best in 5 years and should mean lots of happy skiers on the slopes for most of the season. Resorts like Los Puquios and Penitentes are also reporting abundant snowfall so fingers crossed it is a bumper season. Those stranded tourists and truck drivers will just have to pull out their ski gear and join the party.

6 7 SOUTHERN NOIR

for this grape: cool climates where bunches make it sensitive to diseases Winemaker the grape can mature slowly, great and it normally requires a green thermal amplitude between day harvest to ripen evenly and achieve Sofia Elena and night that keeps natural acidity, better quality. It also ripens early very diverse free draining soil types, so it needs to grow in a cool climate goes to hillside vineyards, no diseases nor area to achieve the right maturity, pests. Martinborough, south of North etc. To sum up, there are more than New Zealand Island, and Waipara and Central 200 different clones of Pinot Noir Otago are the three areas where it is that behave differently and produce to learn about said Pinot Noir was first introduced different results so they require in two waves in the early 1960s and different management techniques. As Pinot Noir. 1970s. Since then clones of Pinot for winemaking, the grape requires Noir have had several years to adapt. quite a lot of careful attention as well. Those early, contraband sprigs were If grown and controlled correctly, this The Pinot Noir grape did not have probably “stolen” from the mythical grape can result in the most subtle, the most auspicious of starts when it Romanée Conti vineyard “La Tache” elegant and complex type of wine arrived in New Zealand 40 years ago. in Burgundy and have mutated and that will reflect the terroir in which The first sprig was found in a and developed to the point that they are it´s grown. However the less plump confiscated by customs. It survived now considered a NZ clone. and fruitier but complex versions of and became known as the Gumboot Pinot Noir are not for everyone. A Clone. The rest is history. From those “Those early, contraband small producer in nord Côte du Rhone humble boots, New Zealand now sprigs were probably stolen once told me that wine consumers exports 10 million liters of Pinot from the mythical Romanée evolution for taste normally finishes Noir to every corner of the World. Conti vineyard La Tache in in Burgundy, meaning that in order Pinot Noir is the red grape variety Burgundy.” to appreciate those wines, one has that many producers have chosen to to drink a lot of all kinds of wine specialize in and that is not by chance. All winemakers agree Pinot Noir is first. And there is no doubt the The climate and weather conditions a very complicated grape to work masters at producing the best Pinot in some areas such as Central Otago, with mainly because it requires a lot are the vignerons in Burgundy. It in the south island are very suitable of work. Its thin skin and compact is no wonder as this grape has had

8 thousands of years of adaptation they are open to discussion and not Noir challenge with winemaker and generation after generation holding any secrets because they Laureano Gomez, former Salentein of vignerons in this region have believe that the success of others is winemaker, being one of the best amassed a lot of knowledge about it. also their own in helping to promote small producers in my opinion. He the region. also had to learn about this grape The region of Central Otago, an area abroad, in Willamette Valley, with little or non-existent wine “Both Patagonia region and Washington State and grew very culture but only a farming one, with Central Otago find themselves fond of it. He also claims that it is most wineries a little more than ten around latitude 45th south” a complicated variety that needs years old, has already distinguished time to develop and the best itself worldwide as an important The scenario for Pinot Noir in versions are the ones that hold area for Pinot Noir production. I Argentina is quite different. Since their aromas and flavour while in had the chance to work for one Malbec is our flagship grape, most the ageing stage. That means that of the hidden gems in the area, premium producers are dedicated they will later explode and show Burn Cottage winery, an 11 hectare to making the best and most all their properties later in time. biodynamic vineyard with one of the diverse versions possible. Cabernet The most common mistake is too top Pinot Noir producers, Ted Lemon, Sauvignon is also a grape most much use of oak for a variety that´s from Sonoma as head winemaker. consider of great quality. But Pinot very subtle and delicate. He learned all about Pinot Noir in is a variety very much in vogue Burgundy where he was the first worldwide so new wine regions like Everyone agrees that this grape is American to manage a domain. Patagonia (particularly San Patricio still in the process of research and el Chañar and Alto Valle de Rio adaptation in Argentina and there Most of the wineries in the area are Negro) that have recently come up is still a lot of work to do. Most small (around 10 hectares), and most in the wine map have decided to believe a key factor to achieve a own land spread out in different focus on this grape. Conditions there great quality wine that can compare areas surrounding the town of seem also suitable for it to adapt, to their French versions, is to learn Cromwell, all of them with different especially due to the cooler climate. from the best producers at the best characteristics that result in different Both Patagonia region and Central sites where Pinot has had years to wines. The aim for most of them is Otago find themselves around evolve. The choice of a proper site try to understand this grape and its latitude 45th south. And the weather for it to grow is essential and then behaviour in order to produce the and topography is quite similar a lot of time and work has to be best Pinot Noir. And the comparison in both places. Recently there has invested to learn how it is adapting with Burgundy is inevitable. Most even been a lot of buzz with some to the terroir it has been introduced winemakers there are trying and wineries there like Bodega Chacra in. Once a good quality fruit has experimenting different things, such getting amazing reviews, a winery been achieved, it also demands a as planting in diverse locations and that has dedicated itself 100% to lot of attention and control in the soil types, using different clones of Pinot Noir following the success of vineyard and the winery. Then, just vines, planting vines on the hills or on other wineries such as Noemia and then, we might produce a Pinot that terraces, harvesting late or harvesting Humberto Canale. Some producers will raise eyebrows in Burgundy early among various techniques. in Uco Valley where the climate is and New Zealand. And the trials happen also in the cooler have also taken on the Pinot winery such as the ones we did which included co-fermentation of Central Otago - Pinot Noir vineyards - New Zealand different clones, different percentage of whole bunch fermentation, using indigenous yeasts, fermenting at low or high temperatures, using open top stainless steel or wooden cuves fermentation tanks, different levels of extraction using less or more punch downs a day, short or long post-macerations, etc.

What I found remarkable is the freedom with which winemakers experiment and try things and are also open to discuss everything they do. Most of them believe that to achieve quality wine and create a local wine identity in Central Otago is a long term investment and that they are in the early stages of finding their own style. But most importantly,

9 THE COSMOS IN A BOTTLE

Savvy winemaking or New Age hokum? Emilie Giraud grabs biodynamic wine by the cow horns

“A New Age trend in Paris restaurant”, gave eight lectures calling for a compost heap and vegetable garden. “Heavy metal “, “Biological dynamite“ more natural and holistic view of One of the principles of biodynamic agriculture that would take into farming is to consider the vineyard When I asked my friends what was consideration the interrelations of as a self-sufficient organism where biodynamics, these were just some the natural cycles of plants, animals, fauna and flora are co-existing in a of their creative answers. The father humans and planets. complementary way. A biodynamic of biodynamics, Rudolf Steiner, vineyard is more like a self-sufficient also brought the imagination to To visualize how his approach farm, a closed-loop system in which another level when describing his is applied to viticulture, and to things that are growing from the soil philosophy. He claims that eating understand why anyone would will eventually go back to nurture it. potatoes is one of the factors that take seriously a man that links turned humans materialistic and materialism to a potato diet, I went doesn’t hesitate to compare the to visit a pioneer Argentinian Magic Potions bladder of a deer to the cosmos. biodynamic estate named Alpamanta or “ Love of Earth “ in Huarpe, the With a biodynamic approach, the You might be inclined to dismiss his local native language. soil is not an inert material. It is an theories as the thoughts of a far- organic part, the micro-organisms of fetched lunatic. which are the key to help the crop The Dung Thing synthesize the elements it needs to However some 500 professional wine grow. Supposedly, disease and pests producers worldwide have followed Located in Ugarteche, at 950 absl, the only appear when the microbiology his teachings when making wine and 35 hectares of Alpamanta Estate have of the vineyard is unbalanced. have won accolades for doing so. a flourishing ecosystem. Human intervention should remain Steiner was an Austrian scientist Walking in the vineyard, you will see minimal. It focuses instead on and philosopher from the 1920’s a lot of insects, but also free-roaming vitalizing the soils and make the known for having set the basis animals like sheep, horses and hens. vine more resistant by generating of Anthroposophy, a spiritual- They even have a mobile hen-house to greater concentration of good micro- scientific approach which aims transport the poultry to the different organisms through the application to restore harmony between the parts of the property. Apart from of preventive homeopathic-like “ human and the universe. eating the greens that can damage biodynamic preparations”. the vines, the animals help disperse In 1924, after meeting a group of the seeds and generate manure for In Alpamanta, those preparations farmers worried by the development fertilizer. The estate also boasts an are kept inside half cut barrels in the of chemical agriculture, Steiner organic herb garden, a home made cellar, including dry plants and glass

10 jars full of minerals, herbs, and Moonlighting area that still had leaves and had not some unidentified objects. Opening been so affected by powdery mildew up each barrel I went from surprise The best times for pruning, this year. Another winemaker made to surprise and even suspected composting, harvesting, making and the same point: witchcraft. adding the biodynamic preparation are determined by strictly following “ We don’t exactly know why, but The first barrel contains some jars a moon calendar. it appears that the biodynamic mentioning “ Preparation 500 “ vineyards suffered way less diseases filled up with a earthy and smelly Reading the biodynamic calendar than others this year”. material. Rocio, the manager, of René Piamonte is a little bit explains to me that it comes from like reading the horoscope of the Winemakers and wineries following the fermentation of cow dung put vineyard. It is based on the phases Steiner’s legacy are also quite inside a cow horn in the soil during of the moon and their relation to different from the image of the lunar winter to concentrate its effect. constellations. The days can be, wizard or outcast hippie we imagine Twice a year, on a day that is not “Root days; ideal to plough, Leaf of a person who talks about the rainy nor too hot nor to windy, after day; ideal for irrigation, Flower cosmic energy of a cow horn fill up 4 pm, the resulting preparation will days;ideal for pruning, and Fruit with poop. They bear such venerable be “ dynamized” in the vineyard. To days; ideal for harvesting. “ names as Bianchi, Catena and dynamize you must dilute it with Colomé. Biodynamic wines score as rainwater at the temperature of the The influence of the moon has high as 96 pts in Wine Spectator as human body in very small doses. always been important in farming is the case of Noemia from Patagonia. Brewed for one hour it is then and its effect on the tide is high sprayed in the vineyard. school knowledge. As for water, a Even a cynic must recognize that full moon will apparently help the being involved in such a binding According to biodynamic belief, flow of sap in the plant. approach reflects a deep interest this key preparation favors the in the care of the vineyard and microbiological activity, the for human wellbeing. Putting this formation of humus, regulates the Good Eggs system into place requires small-size acidity of the ground and stimulates vineyards and lots of commitment, the seeding and even the vertical Biodynamic agriculture is a kind well- known recipes for great wines. growth of the root system. of extreme, new age version of The wines produced by this method organic agriculture. are great ambassadors of their Another barrel, another potion. terroir, providing the consumer with Powdered quartz is buried in a cow In the same spirit, the vinification a unique tasting experience while horn during the summer season. process should be as natural as fighting against the globalization of Dynamized on the plant, it possible and also connected to winemaking and wine tasting. strengthens the effect of the cosmic forces. That´s the reason sunlight and supposedly allows for why Alpamanta wines are To visit Alpamanta Estate a better relation with the entire fermented in egg-shaped concrete or contact them : cosmos. It helps to balance the tanks. The shape creates a vortex, [email protected] vegetative vigor of the plant, favors a kind of energy arch, that allows Calle Cobos s/n, Ugarteche, its internal structure and resistance, the lees to stay in suspension with Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza - Argentina: averting disease and increasing the no need to stir, reducing human Office : +54 (0) 261 420 3643 intensity of the grape´s aromas. intervention. Sales & Tourism: +54(9)261(15) 3468398

Steiner created four other Stricter than the laws of organic preparations to enrich the compost. agriculture, the wines can only They are made of petals, nettles and be certified biodynamic if the dandelion flowers and fermented fermentation was made entirely into intestine of dead animals. with the natural yeast of the grape.

“These preparations act as the different organs facilitating A New Leaf digestion,” explains Sebastian, the agronomist of Alpamanta. Your rational mind might still not be convinced by this blend of esoteric The dandelion, for example, whose philosophy and homeopathic roots can reach a depth of 2 or treatment, but you might be 3 meters, demonstrates its great surprised by a few tangible facts. capacity to find resources in the soil. Added to the compost, it will Strangely enough when I visited “teach” the vine how to grow its in late Autumn, the manager of root in the best possible way to Alpamanta pointed out that their Rudolf Steiner absorb nutrients. vineyard was the only one in the

11 WISHLIST - Biodynamic Wines

Luna Austral “Sintonia”, Finca Aurea, La Consulta Mario Toso and Alvaro Espinosa produce both grapes and wines that are certified biodynamic. The estate in La Consulta, Uco Valley, is designed around the Ying and Yang principle. Only 1500 bottles of the Sintonia are produced and this blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc has notes of asparagus and strawberry jam. $300

Buenalma Malbec, Finca Dinamia, San Rafael Alejandro Bianchi produces Buenalma (or Good Soul) at Finca Dinamia, a 14-hectare vineyard of Malbec-Côt planted in Rama Caida, San Rafael. The mix of oasis and the desert allows for good concentration and colour while the loamy soils add a nice touch of minerality. $165

Alpamanta Estate Cabernet Franc, Bodega Alpamanta, Ugarteche Three friends have decided to follow the rules of biodynamic farming to make pure varietal “terroir wine” from their Ugarteche vineyard which they started from scratch in 2005. Their new creation, Cabernet Franc Estate 2013, demonstrates the great adaptation of this grape variety in Argentina. $230

Doña Silvina Reserva Malbec, Bodega Krontiras, Lulunta Greek businessman and wine lover Constantino Krontiras and his Mendocina wife Silvina make wine from a 100-year old biodynamic vineyard in Lulunta, Lujan de Cuyo, The nose has elegant notes of dried red fruits, vanilla and cream. $300

Siesta en el Tahuantinsuyu Malbec, Ernesto Catena Vineyards, Vistaflores The son of Nicolas Catena produces wines from his biodynamic vineyards Finca la Intensidad in Vistafores, Uco Valley. Intense, complex and elegant. $300

12 13 CAFAYATE OR BUST Emilie Giraud gives the lowdown on a high place – the wine town of Cafayate, Salta.

Located in the Province of Salta, Cafayate is a lovely town of 11,000 inhabitants and the most important settlement of the Calchaqui Valleys. Nestled at 1680 m high, the town is renowned for its high altitude vineyards and for its Torrontès, a native white grape that thrives in 360 days of sun a year, cold nights and sandy soils.

Cafayate’s rich colonial and pre- colonial history as well as dramatic landscapes in its surroundings makes it a perfect destination to discover in the Argentinian North.

For the Curious (or indecisive) type

Push the door of Chato’s Wine Bar, next to Cafayate’s main square. Quebrada de Cafafayate

Chato will receive you in his cosy bar with impeccable English. More than anything he is a passionate about wine and if you encourage him a little bit, he may unveil the secrets of his terroir, tell you the history of Cafayate’s vineyards and show you some of his collectors’ bottle.

You will doubtless find the right tasting option from a 200 bottle menu. Food platters are also served.

Favorite Wine tasted: I had a crush on a stunning Sauvignon blanc from TUKMA winery, a 2670 meter high vineyard in Humahuaca. Aromas of Chato’s Wine Bar asparagus and a beautiful intensity.

14 15 You are the Epicurean type

In the heart of Cafayate, El Porvenir hides behind the adobe walls of a traditional winery from the end of the 19th century, renovated and modernized by the Romero-Marcuzzi family in 1999.

The heavy wooden doors open onto a pleasant patio covered with succulent plants and organized around the shadow of an hundred- year-old carob-tree.

The atmosphere is somewhere between tradition and modernity, with a lot of elegance and subtlety. El Porvenir The traditional barrels are made of carob tree and the brilliant colors of their modern counterparts decorated by contemporary artists.

The winery produces 200,000 bottles per annum.

Favorite Wine tasted: The Amauta line has freshness an is not too oaked, with notes of cassis and plumb with a spicy touch.

For reservations: adrianaelporvenirdecafayate.com

Taking some altitude in the direction of Yacochuya, 8 kms West from Cafayate, and after crossing a most-of-the-year dry river, you will reach Domingo Molina’s winery. Built in 2009, the winery hosts the haut-de-gamme project of three brothers, Osvaldo, Gabriel and Rafael descendant of the Domingos, a traditional vintner family of Cafayate.

Perched at 2000 m high, the Bodega Domingo Molina building offers a fantastic view of the surrounding vineyards. The tas- Torrontès”, José Luis Mounier and his American oak is a rare gem. Great ting of their high-altitude wines is Finca Las Nubes - literally the “ Cloud structure, and slightly smoked, it accompanied by some cheeses and Farm ” - where he produces 70,000 feels totally unique. dried fruits. bottles a year only. If like me you like concentrated and Favorite wine tasted: I loved the The idyllic place offers a panoramic spicy reds, try their Laguna Brava surprising and great value Malbec- view of the town. Some vines are Tannat fermented in oak barrels. Tannat blend “ Hermanos” . cultivated on terraces and farming practices are sustainable. For the alternative type For reservations: [email protected] A must see for Torrontès fanatics. Organize yourself a journey to Amaicha del Valle, 60 km south of On the other side of Cafayate, 5 km Favorite Wine tasted: The Torrontès Cafayate. from the city center and on the route is generally not a grape variety to the waterfalls of the Rio Colorado, that is oaked or aged, but the 2010 From there, visit the Ruins of Quilmes go and discover the “ Master of Laguna Brava Torrontès aged in with a native guide.

16 17 2 kms away from the village of The Route 68 is a visual feast of natural Amaicha, the winery is the only sculptures cut in red rock. business owned by a native com- munity in South America. When you get thristy, try to spot on the side of the road chalk-written Brand new- the first harvest was this boards advertising for “ vino patero” year- , the winery was built collectively a generally sweet home wine I dare by the community itself in a pre- you to try. hispanic style with dry stone walls organized around circular patterns. Reaching km 23, stop at “ La Yesera” put your trekking shoes and go for a The project is based on the concept beautiful and easy walk. of “ Buen Vivir”, a philosophy of life which aims at respecting ideals of Further down the road, test the cooperation, reciprocity and care acoustics of the Anfiteatro or venture for the environment which has into “The throat of the Devil” (La become the political corner stone of Garganta del Diablo). Amaicha Native Community. On your way back, 15 min before The grapes are bought at a fair price reaching Cafayate, stop at the from 60 very small organic producers. hamlet of El Mollar, find the house of Jose David Gonza and try his Don Favorite Wine: Uva criolla, a traditional Caledonio Malbec, a very artesanal grape variety of the region. and surprisingly good wine. Super concentrated and spicy. For reservations: Note that the touristic project of the winery is just about to You are the non-drinking type start, so contact the Cacique or the native guide Sebastian Pastrana to Don’t worry, Cafayate won’t let you Quebrada de Cafayate secure a visit. down. [email protected] You may appreciate a visit to the For alternative wine tourism closer Museo de la Vid y del Vino, explore to the center of Cafayate, you can the terroir of Cafayate through video visit the organic winery Nanni and installation in an old and charming the cooperative of small producers winery where it’s not necessary to sip Trassoles. to feel at ease.

For reservations: You can also indulge yourself with [email protected] a Torrontès or Malbec artesanal ice- [email protected] cream from Heladeria Miranda, or devour the goat cheeses of “Cabras For the adventurous type de Cafayate” .The place, owned by Domingo Hermano’s winery is Go for an excursion in Quebrada surrounded by vines and the goats del Rio de las Conchas and try some are fed with grape skins and seeds. Bodega de Amaicha artesanal wines.

Cabras de Cafayate

18 19 THE LOST CITY

There is a famous saying in Latin Amaicha is only mentioned in Emilie America: “The Mexican come from touristic guides as a practical spot the Aztecs; the Peruvian from the to sleep before visiting the Ruins Giraud visits Incas and the Argentinians from the of Quilmes. At the entrance of boats “. Visiting Amaicha del Valle, a the village, a welcoming billboard Argentina’s little village in the Calchaquì Valley, boasts about Amaicha being the Tucuman, I got to meet descendants place with the best climate of very own of a pre-Inca people, the Diaguitas, the world with 360 days of sun a Machu Picchu and discover “the other history” of year. The scenery is from a classic the Argentinian North. Western – clouds of dust, carob – the ruins of trees and huge cactuses. Sun 50 km from lush, green Tafi del bleached cow skulls hang at the Quilmes Valle and 60 km from Cafayate, entrances of some houses.

20 21 “At school we were told something and at home, we were told a different history,” admits Sebastian and he invites us to see that other history at the city of Quilmes, a few kilometers away.

“When we are taught about native people in Latin America, we study a bit of the Maya, the Inca and the Aztec civilizations. But you need to know there were also very well organized tribes before the Incas here in Argentina.”

Sebastian explains that the Diaguita culture, (the Amaichas and Quilmes), was 60,000 people living in the Calchaqui Valley up until the end of Rebuilt “ purca “ in Quilmes.. the 17th century and their territory stretched 25.500 sq km between I was lured there with friends to would send us away quickly fearing what are nowadays Tucuman, celebrate the summer solstice. In that someone who did not share the Catamarca and Salta provinces. They Amaicha, you won’t find traditional practice would pass by. At the time, it grew corn, quinoa and pumpkin hotels but instead you can rent was considered witchery “. using irrigation and terraces. They rooms in family houses. That’s how worked leather as well as gold, silver, we settled in Amancay, the colorful, Nowadays, the day of the Pachamama bone, bronze and made ceramics and traditional style house of my host - the 1st of August, is celebrated fabrics. Unlike the Incas, they were Sebastian Pastrana. openly in the Andes and there is a not an expansionist civilization. revival amongst the native people. At dawn, our cheerful group walks In Argentina however, scornful The Incas only entered the Valley towards a piece of land deemed references to native culture are still in 1480 and dominated this area sacred by Sebastian’s father Miguel. pretty prevalent and “Indio” remains for 50 years before being defeated The day star is just about to show. a common insult in everyday slang. by the Spanish. In 1534, the While the sun rises in a magical Very little is said in history books Conquistadores arrived in the red glow at the rhythm of the about pre-Inca people and the official region and imposed heavy taxes traditional flute and tambour, the history assumes they have all died. and compulsory catholicism. The old man, ceremoniously wrapped in The winner wrote the history and spirituality and ceremonies of the a poncho, offers home-made wine, the loser has been denied its own Diaguitas were prohibited along cigarettes, medicinal plants and existence, and identity. with their language, the kakan. water to the Earth, begging her for our world not to collapse. Amancay House.

Like many Andean people, the lifestyle and spirituality of the Amaichas revolves around the figure of Pachamama. Pachamama is more than Mother Nature, it is the entire Universe. They believe she gives us everything and we are part of her. She requires reciprocity and respect. One should only use her resources reasonably and honor her with offerings.

“20 years ago, those rituals were considered Indian things, and it was not something positive“ explains Sebastian. “I remember my grandmother opening the mouth of the Pachamama in the mountain, curing it, cleaning it, perfuming it with incense, leaving it ready for offerings. Myself and my cousins would fast and offer wheat and corn, careful not to leave any mark of the ritual behind. At the end, she

22 Amancay House.

23 “Two chiefs Calchaqui and Chelemin To see the original city better, we anywhere. The archives explain united the tribes of the valley and lead start to walk up the pucara, the that women had made “a pact of a 130 year-old rebellion against the Indian fortress. The oral tradition of non-procreation”. From then on, Spanish from 1534 and 1667,” recounts the Diaguitas says that the Sacred the official history considers there Sebastian with pride in his eyes. The City is divided in two parts - the is no more descendants of this last to resist were the Quilmes who City of Peace and the City of War. people. However in a 2001 census, held out to the end in their city. The City of Peace extended toward more than 30,000 people claimed the South. It is a flat area ideal for Diaguita origins. “This place has a very heavy history,” farming, and where people would he explains. “Entire generations lived normally live. The City of War is Alternative research and the careful and died in a state of continuous war.” the pucara, the triangular mountain study of the archives show that not we are climbing on. The walls of its all the Diaguitas had been displaced Approaching the archeological site, houses served as paths to go up and to Buenos Aires. Before the final we can observe lots of dry stone walls find refuge during invasions. surrender at Quilmes, many had following circular or rectangular been exiled to Salta, La Rioja, patterns, extending from the plain to In 1667, after a century of war, and Catamarca, Cordoba and Santa Fé the mountain. The circular buildings the deaths of thousands of people, to work in vineyards, mines and used to be places of production and a Spanish general called Villacorta cotton plantations. There is even a the rectangular ones were houses. ended the rebellion by besieging town called Calchaqui in Santé Fé The walls nearby the entrance were the fortress and cutting their access Province. During the siege, the last rebuilt in 1977, under the military to water and food. Fleeing women Cacique, Ikin, is even said to have had dictatorship. and children were tortured and some Quilmes women and children killed, witnessed by the Spanish escape through the mountains. “The reconstruction work was neither bishop Bartholomé de las Casas, A bishop crossing from Chile to done with scientific rigour nor who later denounced these acts as Tucuman in 1710 related how he historical relevancy, the work was “human butchery”. The siege turned encountered tribes, suggesting they rough and made for tourist to take into a bloodbath and the city was came back to the area 50 years after. nice pictures” according to Sebastian. never ever inhabited again. In 1716, the Crown of Spain gave the remaining Diaguita back 120,000 Interestingly enough, many workers After the native people surrendered, hectares, including Quilmes, under involved in the restoration were the official history says that 2000 the condition they let the mules descendants of the native people that survivors were forced to march and sheep of the governor pasture once lived there. They had accepted 1500 km to the city of Quilmes freely on their land. They also had the task in order to escape the harsh in the province of Buenos Aires. to convert to Catholicism, which work of the sugarcane factories yet Only 400 people made it. In the they accepted without never really they rarely got paid. census of 1810, they do not appear abandoning their own spirituality.

Spiritual Amaicha

24 Finally reaching the top of the pucara, I understand how strategic Government House of the Amaichas the fortress was, protected by the mountain on one side and offering a spectacular view on the Calchaqui Valley on the other side. Contemplating the wonderful scenery, I see a derelict hotel and its huge empty swimming pool standing right inside the surrounding walls of the Sacred City.

In the 1990’s, in a wave of privatization, the archeological site was sold and developed as a tourist resort. The native community of Quilmes rose up and decided to retake the site by force, closing down the hotel. They now manage the site and the money from entrance fees go to micro-credits and educational projects that benefit the community.

History has somehow managed to repeat itself. The Amaichas-Quilmes remain defiant and are nowadays more organized than ever to protect and value their rights. Quilmes is more than a set of historical ruins but a living example of one people’s ongoing fight for survival and identity.

25 dining out

MENDOZA CITY Grill Q El Mercadito Located in the elegant Park Hyatt, Grill With an attractive fairy lit patio and Q serves up traditional regional cuisine terrace outside, this is the perfect spot at a five star level. Sit back in the chic for some lunch time sunshine or al parilla style restaurant amongst the fresco dining. Run by three friends, cowhides and local artwork, pick from El Mercadito has a cool vibe and one of the many Mendocinean wines, relaxed music making it a favorite. make your order and watch the chefs Opened recently by three friends, at work in the open kitchen. They are El Mercadito is offering something a famous for their grilled meats and little bit different to Mendoza. With a gigantic empanadas, and serve hearty cool vibe, relaxed music and attractive Argentine classics such as ‘locro’ - a waiting staff, this is quickly becoming stew which hails back to the early a favorite hot spot for a coffee, bite to independence days. Save room for eat or evening cocktails. Opening in the stunning desserts. The Hyatt’s the morning for healthy breakfasts and other restaurant, Bistro M, offers a antioxidant juices, El Mercadito stays more gourmet evening menu and open throughout the siesta with its light the most exuberant ‘lunch menu’ in menu of sandwiches, big salads and town. With a gorgeous buffet spread some Argentine classic meals. Chow of starters like squid and basil stew, down to big healthy salads like the crispy calamari with cool gazpacho and ‘Langoustine’ with huge juicy prawns, mezze style tapas, you’ll need to bring fresh avocado and green leaves or tuck your stretchy waistbands to fit in the into one of their big toasted sandwiches hearty and flavourful main options like smoked salmon and cream cheese, and the sumptuous dessert buffet on or jamon crudo and arugula served top. Put aside an hour or two for this with chunky chips and homemade tempting lunch or make your way here BBQ sauce. As the sun goes down make in the evening to try the Mediterranean sure to try out one of their yummy inspired dishes including delicious strawberry mojitos! El Mercadito, pasta, fresh fish and some great cuts Aristides Villanueva 521, (261) 4638847. of meat. Chile 1124. (261) 441 1225. Avg. meal price: $ 150. Chacras de Coria: Avg. meal Grill Q $240 pesos. Bistro Viamonte 4961, te: 4962267. M Executive Menu $270 with starter buffet, main course, dessert buffet and La Marchigiana glass of wine. As the first Italian restaurant in Mendoza, La Marchigiana has plenty of history and traditional recipes to Los Negritos whet any nonna`s appetite. Maria Right in the middle of Las Vegas (in Teresa Corradini de Barbera`s family Potrerillos, 80kms from Mendoza) restaurant started off with only six this restaurant stems from a story hearty Italian dishes but has grown Grill Q of a family who came to live in here into a popular local fixture which is one of the first weekend houses always busy despite its curious lack of constructed in the area. They named ambience. The pasta is the best thing Patrona their home ‘los negritos’ a nickname of here, maintaining original recipes This cosy Mendocino restaurant has a their two young children. Many years from over 60 years ago; we recommend casual, rustic charm about it. A colourful later, one of the ‘negritos’ (Enrique) the huge stuffed ravioli. Check out hub of activity on a quiet street, Patrona decided to leave the bustle of the city, the Brad Pitt photo for celebrity attracts a crowd full of locals every night moved to the mountains and opened a credentials. La Marchigiana, Patricias of the week who come for the honest, restaurant with his wife , in Las Vegas. Mendocinas 1550. (261) 4230751. Avg. traditional Argentine food and friendly The restaurant serves lunch and meal price: $160 and warm atmosphere. Classic dishes dinner every weekend and on public like the hearty empanadas and sizzling holidays and the cuisine is flavourful asado are worthy and popular fare but and typically Argentine with stews the real star here is Patrona’s warm, (such as Tomaticán and mondongo) open sandwiches We recommend the milanesas, humita and homemade artichoke hearts and goats cheese; pasta - many of the recipes used are roasted vegetables with white wine and old family recipes. The restaurant honey; or the more traditional pick of has been recognized as part of the rich glands cooked in lemon. A decent ‘gastronomical route’ and is noted for wine list and some satisfying desserts its quality of cooking, architecture and complete the gastronomy experience landscape. but the key to Patrona is the cosy way Los Olmos ST, Las Vegas, Potrerillos. that they really make you feel at home. (261)155697431. Avg: $120. Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de Julio 656. Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat: 12.30pm - 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg. meal cost: $140/(including starter, main dish, Los Negritos dessert+a glass of wine)

26 Anna Bistro long wine list. Av. Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: Anna Bistro has been an important (261) 425 1818. Everyday 8am till late. restaurant on Mendoza’s food scene Avg. meal cost: $190 pesos. since it opened 8 years ago, however that doesn’t stop it from renovating OUTSIDE CITY CENTER itself each year. This year Jerome and his team have started smoking their Terruño - Club Tapiz own salmon and cheese to add a bit Tucked away among the sprawling more flavour to some dishes and you Maipu vineyards lies Club Tapiz Resort can try the rich salmon on delicious and its lovely restaurant Terruño. brioche and go the whole hog with This handsome eatery boasts an a pot of delicious steaming, garlicky elegant interior, excellent service and prawns. Along with a handful of a wine list that is sure to please even salmon dishes there are a host of the most finicky of wine snobs. Their different foods on the menu including chef compiles a tantalising menu that classic steak, rich lamb, creamy includes top notch lomo steaks, a pastas and lots of lighter options rotating range of salads and a savory including big salads, sharing platters ginger/honey chicken dish that is and vegetarian dishes. While lunch second to none. If you like what you and dinner is still its main game, the see and taste, book a room in one of beautiful gardens and restaurant their seven Renaissance-style villas. are open for breakfast from 8am Don’t forget to call ahead for dinner offering unending treats from their reservations! Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maipú. own French patisserie and the late AR$ 220. Tel: (261) 496 0131. tapiz.com. afternoon is perfect for sipping your Lunch, everyday, 12pm - 3pm. Dinner, way through the extensive cocktail Sun - Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until La Marchigiana list or take your pick from the arm 12am. Avg. meal cost: $370 pesos.

Katharina Restaurant

Suspended between Heaven & Earth, locally produced with lots of vegetarian the property. Thursday and Sundays in an idyllic setting that resembles and gluten-free options. Creamy are asado nights and cooking cooking a zen garden, Katharina Restaurant ginger and pumpkin soup, succulent classes are available conducted by the at the luxurious Entre Cielos Resort sweetbreads with malbec jam and a very chef himself. is now open for breakfast, lunch, tea tender grilled lamb with orange flavored time or dinner. Argentinian classics are chimichurri. A talented mixologist is on [email protected] / revisited with an international touch hand to serve Prickly Pear Cocktail made Entre Cielos – Guardia Vieja 1998 - and all the ingredients are organic and with the red fruits of cactus grown on Vistalba / +54 261 498 33 77

27 the winery guide

LUJAN DE CUYO Nieto Senetiner Dante Robino Located in a beautiful old winery in Founded in 1920, an atmospheric old- Terrazas de los Andes Chacras, Senetiner was founded in 1888 style winery with a modernist, light- The fine wine sister of Chandon Argentina and makes a great range of wines and filled tasting room with excellent view is a beautifully restored bodega with sparkling wines and offers horseback of mountains and vines. (0261) 488 well-appointed tasting room. Fav. Wine: riding in the vineyards and asado style 7229 Ext. #2. Callejón Maldonado 240, Cheval de los Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5. lunches. (261) 496 9099, Guardia Vieja Perdriel. www.bodegadanterobino.com Thames and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Luján S/N, Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo. www. de Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com nietosenetiner.com.ar Septima A beautifully designed winery with Clos de Chacras Melipal clear views of the mountains and a large Charming boutique operation with nice Great Malbec and gourmet lunches terrace used for sunset wine events history. A five minute walk from Chacras make Melipal one of the most exclusive after 6.30pm on Thursdays. Owned by plaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe. (0261) 496 wineries to visit. (0261) 4790202. R.N.7, the Spanish experts in sparkling wine, 1285/155 792706. Monte Libano s/n, Luján 1056km, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www. Codorniu, they make fab sparkling de Cuyo. www.closdechacras.com.ar bodegamelipal.com.ar wine under label Maria. (261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan de Cuyo. www. Luigi Bosca Mendel bodegaseptima.com The Arizu dynasty are the royal An old style winery ran by one of family of Argentine wine and their Argentina’s most famous winemaker Bonfanti seat of operations is a handsome and dynasties the De La Motta family. A lovely winery in a pastoral setting. elegant 110-year old winery. Classical (0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor Up close and personal tours with the architecture, ancient atmospheric cellars Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www. owners themselves and a tasting room and rich wines such as the Finca Las mendel.com.ar set amidst the vines. (0261) 488 0595. Nobles range make for a fascinating Terrada 2024, Lujan de Cuyo. visit. (0261) 498 1974. San Martin 2044, Viña Cobos Mayor Drummond, Luján de Cuyo. www. American winemaker Paul Hobbs Pulenta Estate luigibosca.com.ar was one of the first to recognise Cool minimalist design and rich the possibilities of Malbec and his complex wines make this a winery Renacer Bramare label is possibly one of the with finesse and style. Fav. Wine: This Chilean-owned winery creates best examples of this varietal. (0261) Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426. the label Punto Final. Small, modern 479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo. www. Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo. www. operation with tour that includes a vinacobos.com pulentaestate.com hands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261-524-4416 or 261- Tapiz Norton 524-4417. www.bodegarenacer.com.ar Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end Old-style cellars contrast with a high- restaurant Terruño and an instructive tech production line. Tank and barrel Kaiken wine tour including barrel and bottle tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays are This rustic 80 year-old winery houses a tasting. (0261) 490 0202. Ruta Provincial popular with the locals. (0261) 490 9700. new venture by the prestigious Chilean 15, Km 32. Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.Luján de Cuyo. winery Montes. Big and powerful wines, www.tapiz.com www.norton.com.ar destined for fame. TEL (0261) 4761111- 14 INT 113 / Movile (0261-153 530 789) / Belasco de Baquedano Benegas Lynch Movile (0261-155 509 453) Roque Saenz Gleaming modern facility with Rich history and richer wines. Lovely Peña 5516, Las Compuertas, Luján de fascinating aroma room and restaurant old bodega with lots of character. Fav. Cuyo. Open from Mon to Sat from 8 AM with Andean view. (0261) 524 7864. Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 496 to 6:30 PM/SUN and holidays from 9 AM Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www. 0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www. to 1 PM. www.kaikenwin es.com belascomalbec.com bodegabenegas.com Catena Zapata Piattelli Navarro Correas Showcase winery designed like a Mayan A lovely family owned winery done The closest winery to Mendoza city, easily temple overlooking vineyards and the in a Tuscan style. Enjoy lunch on accessible Navarro Correas is a modern Andes Mountains. Rich, complex wines. a deck beside a pond.Fav. Wine: winery with great sparkling wines and (0261) 413 1100. Cobos s/n, Luján de Cuyo. Oaked Torrontes. (0261) 479 0123. fun tasting options. (0261) 4597916. San www.catenawines.com Cobos 13710, Lujan de Cuyo. www. Francisco del Monte 1555, Godoy Cruz. piattellivineyards.com www.ncorreas.com Alta Vista Masterful mix of modern and Cruzat Caelum traditional. Tasting includes distinctive A boutique traditional sparkling wine Modern, medium size winery on the main Torrontes or single vineyard Malbecs. producer with gorgeous bubbles that can road to Chile just before the mountains (0261) 496 4684. Álzaga 3972, Chacras be enjoyed from their terrace overlooking and has a nice family feel to it. Fav. Wine: de Coria, Lujan de Cuyo. www. vines. (261) 5242290, Costa Flores, s/n, Rosado. (261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060, altavistawines.com Perdriel, www.bodegacruzat.com Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar

28 REFERENCES LOCATIONS REFERENCES Restaurant Luján de Cuyo San Martín Lodging Maipú Valle de Uco Driving time from Mendoza City Mendoza City Art Gallery

Chandon Ruca Malen Dolium The original foreign investor, French- Excellent food, great guiding and first- A completely underground winery owned Chandon has been making class wines. The pairings over lunch with innovative design and top notch great sparkling wines in Mendoza make for an unforgettable culinary Malbecs. (0261) 490 0190. R.P.15, Km 30 since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. R.P.15, experience. (0261) 5537164 - 2614540974. s/n, Agrelo. www.dolium.com Km 29, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www. R.N.7, Km 1059, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. bodegaschandon.com.ar www.bodegarucamalen.com La Madrid/Durigutti Tucked away in a restored winery in Dominio del Plata Decero Las Compuertas, you can taste single Argentina´s most famous female Attractive, modern facility with vineyard and terroir blend wines from winemaker Susana Balbo is creating spectacular views of the mountains from both of these ambitious projects from some rich and complex wines in the heart the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524 4748. under one roof. Walk-ins welcome. of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200. Cochabamba Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo, Luján de Roque Sáenz Peña 8450, Las 7801 Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www. Cuyo. www.decero.com Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo. (261) 562 dominiodelplata.com.ar 9134/35.www.durigutti.com www. Estrella de los Andes lamadridwines.com Lagarde On a leafy road in the middle of Lujan, Owner of the oldest white wine in this winery has a cool, retro diner with Achaval Ferrer South America. Try the hand-crafted well presented and tasty Argentine Modern boutique close to Mendoza sparkling wine made from 100 year old dishes that won’t break your bank. riverbed. Big concentrated wines. (0261) vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27. San Martin Open all day and a relaxed atmosphere. 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel, Lujan de 1745, Mayor Drummond. Luján de Cuyo. Olavarria 225, Perdriel, (261) 464 9190. Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.com www.lagarde.com.ar www.bodegaestrelladelosandes.com MAIPU Casarena Vistalba A beautiful mix of old and new, this winery Tasting room where one entire wall Trapiche mixes tradition and modernity in an is a subterranean cross section of the Argentina’s biggest winery is a mix of old old style winery with a super modern actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks. and new, traditional and industrial, and restaurant with splendid views of the Fab restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. Roque has the old train tracks leading up to it. vineyarsd and mountains. Brandsen 505, Saenz Peña 3135, Vistalba. www. (0261) 520 7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Perdriel. www.casarena.com. carlospulentawines.com Maipú. www.trapiche.com.ar Tel 2616967848.

Ojo de Vino A modern winery in Agrelo, notable Ojo de Vino not just for exceptional wines such as the Malo Blend, but also the fact its Oh Yeah! owner is the Godftaher of Techno, Swiss Anyone who grew up in the eighties to a pond. The chef Jaime Baeza serves musician Dieter Meier. The winery will quickly associate Dieter Meier home-made dishes paired with wines restaurant Ojo de Agua, has a delighful with the above title. But what you such as Puro, Malo and Super Malo. setting next to a vineyard lake. may not be aware of however is that Bajo Las Cumbres S/N. Agrelo. Tel that the very same Swiss artist has Opened from Monday to Sunday. Bajo 2615731688. [email protected] invested in land, cattle and Argentine LasCumbres s/n. Lujan de Cuyo. Tel: Malbec. Ojo de Vino is a medium size 0261-155731688,[email protected] Carmelo Patti winery that produces organic wines Mendoza’s most famous garagista. aged in oak barrels for between 6 and Carmelo Patti himself is often there 24 months. The names, colors and to show you around (in Spanish). Fav. shapes of the bottles may leave you Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the somewhat bewildered but I suggest barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin 2614, you overcome your prejudices, Luján de Cuyo. uncork, and let yourself be guided by the purple fairies going out from each Familia Cassone bottle. Located down a dirt road A charming, family owned winery in a between vineyards and poplars with beautiful setting. Try the jasmine tinted the towering Andes nearby, the rosé amidst the pastoral splendour of the winery’s restaurant “ Ojo de Agua” owner’s expansive garden. Anchorena y offers lunches beneath a cane-roofed Terrada. (261) 424 6301. gallery or in an outdoor setting next www.familiacassone.com.ar

29 the winery guide

Trivento Cecchin Clos de los 7 Located in the bucolic splendour of A family winery using organic and In the heart of gorgeous Vista Flores, southern Maipu, Trivento is owned biodynamic principles where you can see you can visit premium French owned by the Chilean Concha y Toro. This the entire process from the beautiful green wineries Monteviejo, Rolland, Diamandes modern winery has a beautiful deck vineyards to the minimal intervention and Cuvelier de los andes in one visit for set amidst the vineyards and offers winery. (261) 497 6707, MA Saez 626, Maipu, tastings, horseriding, art and lunch. (0261) bicycle excursions within the property. www.bodegacecchin.com.ar 156 687680. www.clos7.com.ar Ruta 60 y Canal Pescara, 5517 Maipú, Mendoza. Tel: 0261 413-7156. www. Carinae O. Fournier trivento.com Small, charming, French-owned winery Most architecturally innovative winery offering personal tours and well-honed wines. with rich, concentrated wines. Excellent Flichman Surrounded by vineyards and olive trees. lunches in the modernist visitor center. Steeped in history and tradition. (0261) 499 0470. Videla Aranda 2899, Cruz de (02622) 451 088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, Charming, pink-hued, colonial-style Piedra, Maipú www.carinaevinos.com San Carlos. www.ofournier.com bodega, set in the leafy vineyards of southern Maipu. (0261) 497 2039. Tempus Alba Gimenez Riili Munives 800, Barrancas, Maipú. www. A fine modern winery set in the rural lanes A brand new family run affair, part of the flichman.com of southern Maipu. The rooftop terrace exciting Vines of Mendoza project. This is overlooks the vineyard. (0261) 481 3501. Perito a modern winery in a stunning setting. Familia Di Tommasso Moreno 572, Maipú. www.tempusalba.com 0261-156317105/ 0261-153470392 - Ruta Officially the second oldest winery in 94 (s/n), Tunuyán. www.gimenezriili.com Mendoza and still run by Argentine Lopez hands. Their charming and rustic Popular, old-style winery with two museums Bodega Masi restaurant looks onto the vineyard, on the wine. Restaurant offers gourmet Fascinating Italian job in the heart of just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829. cuisine with a panoramic view. (0261) 497 Tupungato with commanding views Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maipú. www. 6554. Ozamis 375, Gral Gutiérrez, Maipú. and commanding wines, especiially the familiaditommaso.com www.bodegaslopez.com.ar Amarone inspired varietals and unusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573. www. Familia Zuccardi VALLE DE UCO masitupungato.com A professional, far-sighted operation. Attractive restaurant amidst the vines, Andeluna Domaine Bousquet famous for its asado-style lunches and The old-world style tasting room looks Another French transplant to the generous wine pourings. (0261) 441 upon dramatic views of vineyards against Andean foothills of Valle de Uco, this 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5, Maipú. www. mountains. (02622) 423 226 Ext 113.R.P. sizeable operation produces high altitude familiazuccardi.com 89, Km 11, Gualtallary, Tupungato. www. Chardonnay, Merlot and Malbec and andeluna.com now has a popular restaurant serving Cepas Elegidas excellent tasting menu lunches. Ruta 89. Making real ‘vinos de autor’, US born Atamisque Tupungato. www.domainebousquet.com Brennan Firth makes his limited This Uco winery has some great white Tel 2615274048 production wines in a small winery in wines, a unique stony roof and they breed Maipu. Exclusive and ultra high end their own trout which is served in the The Vines of Mendoza wines, a visit and tasting is with the charming restaurant.(0261) 156 855184. There are not many wineries that can winemaker himself. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San Jose, Tupungato. claim 300 different labels, but then again To visit Cepas Elegidas, call Brennan on www.atamisque.com The Vines is no ordinary winery. It is best (0261) 467 1015. described as a cooperative of wine lovers La Azul around the World who have all bought a AMP Cava Simple, small production winery with not vineyard plot each in Uco Valley and are Premium wines made from different so simple Malbecs and a small traditional making their own wine in a central winery terroirs but all by renowned winemaker restaurant. (02622) 423 593.R.P 89 s/n. Agua with experts such as Santiago Achaval Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings Amarga, Tupungato. www.bodegalaazul.com overseeing. Add to this a fabulous 5-star and a close proximity to the city hotel and Francis Mallman restaurant and make it a recommended visit. Gómez Finca La Celia Uco Valley will never be the same again. Adriano 3602. Coquimbito. Maipú - (261) One of the valley’s oldest wineries. They Ruta 94, Tunuyan. Tel 261 461 3900 4813201/4668048 conduct excellent tours and tastings. (02622) 451 010. Av. de Circunvalacion s/n, Eugenio SAN MARTIN Rutini / La Rural Bustos, San Carlos. www.fincalacelia.com.ar Well-stocked museum with invaluable Familia Antonietti antiques like cowhide wine presses and Salentein A family winery in San Martin where buckets. Giant oak tanks stand in large, Designed like a temple to wine, this ultra- you can have a tour with the owners, cavernous halls. concept winery includes a modern art try some of their sparkling wines and (0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. Montecaseros gallery, lodge, and chapel set high in the stay for a homecooked lunch. (0261) 2625, Coquimbito, Maipú. www. Andean valley. (02622) 429 500.R.P 89 s/n, 4390964/155688905. Pizarro s/n esq. bodegalarural.com.ar Tunuyan. www.killkasalentein.com Zalazar, Chapanay, San Martín.

30 bars inside Mendoza City The list below has some great bars but if you’re looking to in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue, the nightlife the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled strip of Mendoza. It’s a continuation of Ave. Colon and beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub is simply referred to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music- restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San video montages or football games. Monday night is Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get International night and for their packed events DJ’s rock your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs don’t the house. Colon and España 241. Tel. 261-429-5567. www. even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are believeirishpub.com.ar all located out of the city in Chacras or El Challao. ANTARES BAR MATIAS DOWN TOWN Aristides street would not be very complete without its own Victorian style decor and multiple ales to choose from is micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer enough to soothe the nostalgia of any barfly foreigners. in this respect with bars located across the country since Downtown Matias is part of a successful beer chain starting before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long in Buenos Aires in 1973 and now with bars as far as San bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as Martin de los Andes in Patagonia. Mendoza’s version is right Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them in the heart of beer street and ideal for a sidewalk stop-off or in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar. some serious high stool imbibing inside. Aristides 198. Aristides 153.

El MERCADITO Velvet Aristides still remains the busiest night spot in town and This hip new club and bar is located 15mins away from this resto-bar has to be one of the coolest in town. El Mendoza in Chacras de Coria. Boasting good cocktails and Mercadito is run by three friends and it lets the good times great music, spread over a lounge bar and downstairs club roll with healthy meals – including big salads, which are room, this is the best ticket in town for good times on a a rarity here – antioxidant juices, decent brekkie, fresh Friday and Saturday night. Mision Alfoz, Viamonte 4961, cocktails and a top music mix. Spend an evening here and Chacras de Coria (261) 467 433. you’ll hear a few beats from across the pond and leave with a light stomach and a few stars brightening up your vision. Black Sheep El Mercadito, Aristides 521. Just off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an American- style sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food BELIEVE IRISH PUB like nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and wings. While especially popular during sports matches, The high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part- Black Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat from 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like! and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

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AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below) where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. RECOMMENDED WINERIES Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae and certainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca), tel (261) 641 6047. CHANGING DOLLARS - “Cambio, cambio” shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped off check the current rate of the “dolár informal” on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

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