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VOL. 1/APRIL 23-APRIL 29, 2015

PEMUTERAN “REMEMBER THE NORTH”

WARUNG PULAU KELAPA 2015 EMERGING WRITERS FESTIVAL BALI FOOD SAFARI FROM THE EDITOR

Cover Photo: Wira Wijoga

06 Photovoice

CONTENTS

07 Double Six Beach 08 Pemuteran 10 Bali Food Safari 12 ‘Lak-lak’ a lá Men Gabrug 16 Pak Sudana 04 Warung Pulau Kelapa 05 2015 Bali Emerging Writers Festival

PT BINA MEDIA TENGGARA I EDITORIAL AND GENERAL DEPARTMENT Jl. Tukad Musi VI/17 Kav.1 Renon Denpasar Bali (0361) 265 436, 265 437 FAX (0361) 223 698 [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]

Board of Directors Jusuf Wanandi, Cherly P. Santoso, Meidyatama Suryodiningrat, Riyadi Suparno I Editor in Chief/Guarantor Meidyatama Suryodiningrat Editor I Wayan Juniarta I Contributing Editor Rita A. Widiadana I Editorial Staff Desy Nurhayati, Bram Setiawan, Anton Muhajir, Alit Kertaraharja, Ni Komang Erviani, Luh De Suriyani, Wasti Atmodjo I Photographers Agung Parameswara, Lukman SB, Zul Trio Anggono, Anggara Mahendra Graphic Designer Budhi Hartono, Sunaryo, Mohamad Soleh General Manager Wiradiatma Wijoga I Advertising Kadek Ita Noviyanti, Ngurah Agung I Circulation Slamet Sunarno I Promotions Mirah Adi

2 April 23, 2015 Images

“A HEAVENL DANCE”

WORDS AND PHOTOS AGUNG PARAMESWARA

‘Sang Hyang Legong Topeng’

ne sunny afternoon, three young with an a k-a k waistcloth over a white, Sulasih, Nilotama, Aminaka, Supraba, girls prepared for an important long sleeved top. They wear heavy make-up on Gagarmayang and Tunjung Biru. dance performance. their young faces and fowers and ornaments Continually changing the masks they wear, Putu Diah Anggita, 12, Wayan on their heads. the girls dance to the Semar Pegulingan OWinarti, 10, and Made Fibri, 12, were to perform Prior to the dance, the girls are blessed with orchestra. The dance had only been the an an ln tn , one of Bali’s holy water and chew two frangipani fowers going for 15 minutes when the rain started most sacred dances, at two major temples - as part of a purifcation ritual before wearing to fall. “It is sign that the entire ritual for the Pura Giri Jagatnatha and Payogan Agung, in a series of sacred masks through the course of temple celebration is complete and being Ketewel village, Gianyar. the dance. blessed by the gods. The dance is the wrap-up This sacred dance is performed at Pura Giri The masks represent the heavenly nymphs ritual,” said the temple’s priest. Jagatnatha once a year and at Pura Payogan Agung every six months, during the alan, or temple anniversary. So sacred is the dance that only pre- menstrual girls are allowed to perform. Based on the aa al ka ati and Lnta aja Pana att a palm leaf manuscripts, the dance was choreographed by I Dewa Made Agung Anom Karna from the Ketewel royal household, who drew inspiration from a dream to compose this sacred, heavenly work. The magical and spiritual atmosphere the dancers create is thrilling; a breathtaking experience for anyone attending the ritual and watching this nymph dance. The girls wear glittering cloth with gold weave and colorful la ak (front runner cloth)

April 23, 2015 3 Savor

Warung Pulau Kelapa

WORDS AND PHOTOS LUH DE SURIYANI

bud village is rapidly becoming The availability of fresh produce picked one of Bali’s top culinary centers directly from its garden has added interest to “PRESERVING A THENTIC and ofers a hugely diverse range Warung Pulau Kelapa, which serves and of food, from lines of simple, drinks from all over , such as yellow INDONESIAN C ISINE” stalls to exclusive cafs and rice, meat soups and satay. restaurants serving Indonesian, Asian, Middle One traditional drink on ofer is ltk Eastern and Western food. beer from Betawi (old Jakarta). This delicious Amid the bountiful food establishments concoction consists of , , in the village, Warung Pulau Kelapa is one cardamom and cloves. serving authentic Indonesian food. Another special health drink is in , which Warung Pulau Kelapa, which literarily is made of tamarind and brown . “This translates to kiosk, is located on Jl. drink is good for the digestion,” said Prayitno, Raya Sanggihan in Campuhan. the owner of Warung Pulau Kelapa. When visiting last weekend, a number Prayitno is a cultural and political of employees were seen busy picking fresh enthusiast. He also manages Setia Darma , and herbs from the House of Masks and Puppets in Mas village, restaurant’s organic garden by near bud. Campuhan River. Despite his age, Prayitno is an energetic and A small path connects Warung Pulau Kelapa active motivator for local youth. He frequently and its garden, allowing customers to pick invites young activists to taste authentic their favorite vegetables, including choosing Indonesian food and to discuss cultural and from plants rarely found or used in Bali, such current issues. as ti fowers, lnta and kniki leaves. “oung people must learn their own history In Java, such leaves are served in the dish and cultural heritage,” he said. l - mixed steamed vegetables served with Warung Pulau Kelapa and the mask a savory, spicy sauce. museum are showcases of Indonesia’s rich The garden is also flled with tropical herbs cultural assets. “Warung Pulau Kelapa exists to and spices, such as ginger, , shallots, preserve the wealth of traditional Indonesian galangal, turmeric, lemongrass and pandanus. cuisines,” he stated.

4 April 23, 2015 Sound

2015 BALI EMERGING WRITERS FESTIVAL “AN ANNAL CELEBRATION OF PROMISING O NG TALENT”

WORDS I WAYAN UNIARA PHOTOS URESY EW

he local art scene will be treated this weekend to a fascinating gathering of young talent from a wide spectrum of artistic endeavors as the Bali Emerging TWriters Festival (BEWF) takes place at Danes Art Veranda in East Denpasar, April 24-26. The festival, which is in its ffth year, has the word “writers” in its name, but since its inaugural event in 2011, BEWF has never tried to be a poets-and-novelists afair. This year’s line-up of 20 speakers also features flmmakers, musicians, singers, as well as stand-up comics. Eka Kurniawan, an Indonesian author whose works have been translated into English, French and Italian, Terra Bajraghosa, a mixed- media artist and comic book writer, and Sidi Saleh, whose short movie aa won top prize in the 2014 Mostra Internazionale d’Arte Cinematografca in Venice, are three of several big names confrmed to speak at the festival. International guest speakers include Lou Heinrich and Omar Sakr, both appearing as part of the thriving collaboration between BEWF and the Melbourne-based Emerging Writers Festival, and award-winning Singaporean author Noor Hasnah Adam and Singaporean stage performer Deborah Emmanuel. cooperation with the Denpasar-based citizen The festival will feature workshops, panel journalism NGO Sloka Institute, the festival discussions, movie screenings, concerts and organized in February a creative writing art performances. The full program can be workshop, featuring Bali’s leading author Cok accessed at ali in . Sawitri, inside the prison. “BEWF is designed for the younger audience, The photography exhibition will feature a fun-flled educational event where they can the selected works of four local young inspire and be inspired,” bud Writers and photographers, who participated in the Readers Festival ( WRF) director and BEWF documentary photography workshop founder Janet DeNeefe said. organized by the festival. Internationally A book launch, photography exhibition acclaimed photographer Rio Helmi and ali and musical concert will ofcially kick of ’s Anggara Mahendra guided the young the festival on Friday evening. Titled i alik shooters in developing a visual narrative on j i (Behind Bars), the book is an anthology marginalized communities. of poems and short stories penned by A musical concert featuring popular indie 21 young inmates at the Gianyar juvenile band Pygmy Marmoset and Jakarta-based detention facility in Amlapura, Karangasem. In singer Budi Doremi will top the evening.

April 23, 2015 5 JOHN PRIMER

AT RYOSHI HOUSE OF JAZZ Soul PHOTOVOICE “EMPOWERING PEOPLE THRO GH PHOTOGRAPH” WORDS DESY NURHAYAI PHOTOS URESY PH IE ARANGASEM

he village of Tulamben is one of the balance conservation with social life, culture main marine tourism destinations in and economic benefts. Karangasem, on Bali’s eastern coast, The NGOs Lensa Masyarakat Nusantara, popular for the famous shipwreck of Coral Reef Alliance, Conservation International Tthe S Army Transport Liberty. Beautiful coral and Reef Check Foundation have been reefs and the biota inhabiting the shipwreck collaborating with the local government “The pictures and stories provide people and conservation in the area, while the attract hundreds of tourists on a daily basis. and the community to achieve sustainable with a way to refect on their own lives and to community is directly involved in managing Another popular east Bali area for diving management, which has resulted in talk about what they want to protect and what its environment, community system, natural is Amed, where visitors can also enjoy the photovoice. This innovative program provides they want to make better.” resources, culture and development. landscape of a series of headlands overlooking cameras and photography training for people “Adding captions to the photos, they can Conducted since 2007, this program has bays lined with traditional fshing boats. to document important issues in their lives, explain the knowledge and values of local been proven efective in some areas of eastern Tulamben and Amed ofer scenic natural like the natural environment, their culture and wisdom that can be used as a baseline for Indonesia. beauty both on land and underwater, as well as community strengths and challenges. development planning, and sustaining the Tulamben and Amed were chosen as the a tranquil relaxing holiday for ocean lovers. By using simple cameras, photographs and natural and cultural environment,” said Ayu frst locations for photovoice in Bali. Starting Both these areas have benefted from work stories, people gain a visual voice and a process Saraswati, program coordinator. last Thursday, 11 participants in Tulamben and by environmental NGOs with local people and to communicate indigenous knowledge and This information can then be used by 18 in Amed joined the training. dive operators. However, challenges remain to concerns. decision makers for appropriate development The participants represent a cross-section of local government institutions, fshermen, tourist operators, farmers, masseuses and porters. The training included how to take photos on land and underwater by professional photographer Kartika Dewi Suardana and a lecture from Alit Widusaka of the Indonesian Arts Institute in Denpasar. Environment-related issues were the most pressing problems revealed. During the dry season, carelessly discarded trash accumulates on the dry river bed, then when the wet season comes, the trash is washed into the bay - choking corals, killing fsh and negatively impacting on tourism. The expected program outcome will beneft the community, government and all stakeholders, aiding development in general, and in more specifc felds, including the management of marine resources in Karangasem.

6 April 23, 2015 Sight Double Six Beach WORDS AND PHOTOS AGUNG PARAMESWARA “BALI’S LIVELIEST BEACH DESTINATION”

he once quiet and pristine Kuta Beach loungers with accompanying umbrellas, the is no as longer favored as it once was well-ordered beach sellers ofering everything by locals and visitors eager to enjoy from paintings to carvings and watches, and a relaxing beach atmosphere with the extensive range of food and drink options Tstunning sunsets. The heavy trafc and crowds – from food stalls, to beach bags on the beach on the sand mean it is starting to lose its appeal and luxury restaurants. for many. There are lifeguards stationed along this However, Bali remains a haven for beach stretch of sand and the regular waves make it lovers and, just along the road, people still take ideal for those learning to surf, bodyboarding pleasure in the island’s liveliest beach - Pantai and just playing in the waves - provided you 66, or Double Six Beach. can swim. The broad swathes of sand make Located at the end of Jl. Arjuna, Double Six it ideal for children to play and adults to walk Beach is adjacent to the island’s most afuent their dogs or go jogging. fashion and entertainment hub. Double Six Beach is popular throughout the Named after the legendary Double Six club, year but is much less crowded out of the peak which no longer exists but has been replaced holiday season. So whether you want to laze by a stunning new luxury hotel of the same on a lounger or play in the waves, why not name, the beach attracts visitors who love head down to Double Six Beach? its beautiful white sand, the plentiful sun

April 23, 2015 7 Cover Story

PEMUTERAN “REMEMBER THE NORTH” WORDS AND PHOTOS WIRA WI GA

8 April 23, 2015 our years ago, when Lembeh Strait Beratan area, allowing you to make a stop at was frst mentioned to me by friends, it the tranquil botanical garden, or through was described as one of the best dive the Pupuan rice terraces with their hilly areas in the world, the Mecca for muck background, allowing you to stop divingF and heaven for an underwater macro- and eat durian on the way. photographer. Staying in Pemuteran, besides It was not until a visit there later that the have-it-all dive area on your year that I started to understand how the doorstep and snorkeling sites unattractive term of “muck dive” could actually just of the beach, gives you attract so many photographers from all corners the advantage of being in of the world. the center of three main dive Within the seemingly plain, lacking in coral, areas. Secret Bay, known for mucky, sandy bottom of this dive site lives a its resident frogfsh, is 30 vast and concentrated population of very rare minutes’ drive west, while Puri underwater creatures and bottom-dwellers Jati, famous for its resident seldom, or never, seen anywhere else in the octopuses, including coconut world. Apparently similar traits are shared by and mimic octopuses, is 30 other dive sites in other places that host similar minutes to the east. Menjangan creatures. Island, renowned for its serenity, Recently, realizing that a long Easter crystal clear water and colorful corals, is weekend was coming up, I sat daydreaming of a short 10-minute drive away followed by octopuses sites really deliver, and I still haven’t got to the going to some world-class dive site; but with a 30-minute boat-ride from the pier. and the popular Menjangan Island. little time to prepare, skyrocketing fight costs We dived at Secret Bay and Puri Jati, where elusive mimic On my drive back to Denpasar, I thought and insufcient time to negotiate prices, it did the topography is a gentle slope from the octopus, which fed at the frst sight of us. how grateful I was that I lived on the island and not look like it was going to materialize. Then beach to around 5 meters depth, and a really Little is known about this northern diving had been reminded how good the diving here my thoughts turned to Pemuteran in north wide, fat-bottomed area at between 5-8 m area, especially compared to the popular dive was, and to fnd out what the northern part of Bali. Much has been said about this place, and depth, depending on the tide. Being shallow sites of Tulamben, Nusa Penida and Nusa Bali had to ofer. despite living in Bali for over two years, I had dives, with little or no current, these sites are Lembongan. As with other tourist attractions H been making excuses not to go; so I decided tailor-made for underwater photographers, in the north, the dive sites are less talked about Fly to Ngurah Rai International Airport in it was time to give it a try, especially knowing giving you the possibility of taking a lot of and probably less promoted due to the long Bali. Pemuteran is four hours away by road. that the dive sites in that area have a lot of frames in a relatively long dive. drive from southern attractions and hotels, Staying overnight for at least one night is shared qualities with Lembeh. In the two days of diving at both sites, we and because of this they are often missed by recommended. Driving to Pemuteran takes around 3.5 to encountered banggai cardinal fsh, fngered residents and tourists alike. 4 hours, depending on trafc and the route. dragonets, longspine wasp fsh, porcelain Having dived in many renowned dive Secret bay and Puri Jati are shallow dive A nice surprise was most of the routes have crabs, moray eels, blennies, various kinds of sites in , including two of the sites with acceptable underwater visibility and attractive and mesmerizing scenery. The two scorpion fsh, shrimps, crabs and nudibranches. most popular muck dive sites in the world, little or no current. Check with your dive guide routes through the midlands will either take We also encountered many frogfsh, including in Lembeh (north Sulawesi) and Anilao (the to plan the dives for the best conditions on a you through the popular Bedugul and Lake the rare Hispid frogfsh, seahorses, coconut ), I can vouch that the northern dive given day.

April 23, 2015 9 Savor

“AN ADVENT RO S BALI FOOD MSTER DINING TO R” WORDS AND PHOTOS EDNA ARIGAN SAFARI s a major culinary destination, Bali would be our next stop. family restaurant where the owner cooks and ofers plenty of places for a food This program can start with tapas or serves the meals, or a new hidden gem in the adventure. ou can easily fnd tours appetizers in the frst restaurant and end with area you choose. that will take you to restaurants dessert in the third or fourth venue. The food The Bali Food Safari team makes sure to only Aserving anything from traditional Indonesian choice at each venue is part of the mystery take customers to reputable venues to try and food, generic western food and Indian food, to culinary adventure set up by the Bali Food ensure a satisfying Balinese culinary adventure. Japanese food and even Greek Mediterranean Safari team. “No customer will ever get the same – despite the long distance from southeastern ou may have an Indonesian appetizer, experience at the same venues,” Ward added, Europe. Italian main course, a South American dish for saying he collaborated with around 30 While most tours are arranged to suit the another main course and end with a Japanese- restaurants across the island. customers’ requests, Bali Food Safari ofers style dessert. And it is very possible that you To enjoy this tasty tour, book 48 hours in a unique culinary adventure on the island. will visit a fve-star restaurant with a famous advance on aliaai . The price per Customers need only make a reservation on Michelin-starred chef, a popular bistro, a local person starts from A128 ( S98.80). the Bali Food Safari website and choose which area they want to explore for their dining tour. Mystery Dining Tours are ofered to Jimbaran, Seminyak and bud. Choosing bud, as I had not explored it as much as Seminyak and Jimbaran, Bali Food Safari set up a tour and I was picked up in an MPV. As suggested by the tour name, Bali Food Safari founder Simon Ward, my personal guide on this adventure, gave no clue as to which restaurants, cafs or other dining venues would be visited, only saying there would be three or four venues on the tour. He also requested that we not disclose the venue names, to maintain the mystery for future guests The frst stop, for appetizers, was in the woods of Sayan village, just ten minutes’ drive from downtown bud and one of the best spots in the bud area to enjoy sunset. “We try to make the frst stop a beautiful place to enjoy the sunset, whether customers chose bud, Jimbaran or Seminyak,” Ward said. The culinary journey became more and more interesting with each venue and I kept trying to guess which restaurant, caf or hotel

10 April 23, 2015 April 23, 2015 11 SavorSight ‘LAK-LAK’ A LÁ MEN GABRUG LUH DE SURIYANI “BRANDING TRADITIONAL BALINESE ”

hen you vacation in Bali, or written on a green banner featuring an image to “Lak Lak Ne Men Gabrug”, saying somebody PHOTOS AND WORDS elsewhere in Indonesia, you of a Balinese woman wearing a frangipani was already using the Men Gabrug brand. may want to taste genuine local fower in her hair. Then one of her relatives also set up a food snacks. The banner and the brand are quite stall, this time on Jl. Drupadi in Denpasar, under WBali’s pastries and snacks, locally known as eye-catching for passersby. For local people, the name “Lak Lak Men Gabrug”. snacks to several customers. Lak-lak is best jaja Bali, are as rich and varied as its arts and branding traditional food is unusual; it is “I never thought of acquiring the intellectual served hot and fresh from the oven. culture, with a vast array of sweet and savory viewed as communal cultural property that no property right to the brand,” Sutrisni said. “The texture is soft and moist. The coconut snacks served as ceremonial food, daily snacks one person can claim as their own. While Men Gabrug is probably an imaginary milk makes the taste so delicious, and party sweets. The branding has also become a source of fgure, the name has become a hot commodity especially teamed with grated coconut and Lak-lak is a favorite among . dispute between two families, each having for lak-lak makers, guaranteed to lure brown sugar caramel.” A perfect match to black cofee, lak-lak is their own version and claiming to have created customers. She said the green color was natural and popular for and -time. the brand. “Everybody can make and sell lak-lak, but derived from pandanus leaves. Made of rice four and , lak-lak It started in 2012, at a food stall opened for each will taste diferent,” she said. Meanwhile, in the Ne Men Gabrug food stall, is similar to a thick and is usually the Bali Arts Festival at the Arts Center. Sutrisni said lak-lak should be cooked the the traditional lak-lak has transformed into a served with brown sugar caramel mixed with Ni Made Sutrisni said a member of the traditional way, using earthenware Balinese trendy cake. grated coconut. festival’s organizing committee had created a kitchen utensils. “My customers are mostly young people - Local women usually cook lak-lak for catchy name for her food stall, “Lak Lak Men In her open kitchen, customers can watch students used to modern pastries and western- family , while some also sell them in Gabrug, Fresh from the Oven”, to attract buyers her lak-lak in a clay pan on a brick style ,” she said. traditional markets. to the stall. After the festival ended, Sutrisni stove using a cofee wood fre. Despite the heated brand dispute, both Men However, two women in Denpasar are opened another food stall on Jl. Nusa Indah, “This is how we should bake lak-lak [with Gabrug and Ne Men Gabrug food stalls have creating a trade brand for this traditional snack. just outside the Arts Center complex. earthenware utensils], otherwise it will taste popularized the rural snack lak-lak, making it a “Men Gabrug, Fresh from the Oven” is A year later, Sutrisni changed the wording diferent,” explained Sutrisni, while serving the favorite urban cake. WOOBAR featuring Kolombo SKAI BEach Club Grand Opening

Metis Restaurant, Lounge and Gallery

12 April 23, 2015