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.... THE GLOBAL EDITION OF THE NEW YORK TIMES ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT MONDAY,JANUARY 21, 2013 | 5

East Rennell, in the Solomon in the western Pacific, includes alake, dense forest and rich biodiversity

The ’s and are home to hundreds of animal species.

EAST RENNELL | Uncharted riches

Aremote habitat onaraisedcoral atoll in the westernPacific Preserving marine heritage hen the geologist Paul Dingwall evokes‘‘a re- initially provided funds for the development of tourism in- The lack of funds also meansthat themarine compo- realize that in manycountries the land is ownedand The UnescoWorld Heritage Centre’s mote island location with unspoiled nature and frastructure, including eco-lodges, motorized canoes and nent of East Rennell is largely unexplored, says Dingwall, managed not by the government but by traditional own- Marine Program 10-year strategy to W stunning scenery,’’ he might easily be referring to road transportation. But the site still lacked sustained In- adding: ‘‘Its natural values and attributes remain unknown ers —acommon practice throughout Pacific Island protect the ‘‘crown jewels of the his nativeNew Zealand. But heisactually describing a ternet connectivity, marketing or ongoing facility mainten- and undocumented.’’Heacknowledges that although the countries,for example. So apolicy change was neces- ’’ includes building an

PRODUCTIONS About World Heritage place more remote and, if anything, more spectacular. ance. Then funding faltered during aperiod of domestic site encompasses amarine area extending three nautical sary to allow such land to become World Heritage, and international network of World East Rennell is located on the southern third of the largest political disruption and has not yet miles out to (to act as abuffer from East Rennell led the way.’’ HeritageThe aim ofmarinethe WorldsitesHeritageand raised coral atoll in the world: RennellIsland inthe So- come back. external impacts), there has asyet been The World Heritage Centre andthe IUCN are charged facilitatConventioingn,theiradopteeffectivedbyUnesco The nativeresidents NDERSEA members in 1972, is ‘‘to encourage

lomon Island group in the western Pacific. Since 1998, What is needed, says Dingwall, in no survey, inventory, documentation or with evaluating potential threats to asite and reporting /U management. In this way, the the identification, protection and this 37,000-hectare (91,429 acre) expanse has been a addition to infrastructure renovation, is are the direct evaluation of the natural values of the to the World Heritage Committee. Areactive monitoring Marine World Heritage network preservation of cultural and natural World Heritage marine site, and Dingwall has visited it marketing and operational savvy to en- managers of the site marine area of East Rennell in the con- mission to East Rennell took place in October, led by serves as adriver for improving HARLIN heritage around the world three times as part of his work for the World Heritage and courage demand by foreign tourists. text of World Heritage. Dingwall, to assess the site in order to make recommen- ocean conservation globally. LIZ considered to be of outstanding the International Union for the Conservation of Nature. Such demand would encourage local efforts to redevelop Nevertheless, the geologist sees great potential in dations to the World Heritage Committee and the State universal‘‘Tidesvalueof Time’’to humanity.’’is apartnership Dingwall’s 35-year career (he retired in 2005 but con- the eco-lodges and manage the site for maximum East Rennell. First and foremost, he loves the people, Party of for improving its conservation. among‘‘TidesJaeger-LeCoultre,of Time’’ is apartnershipthe tinues to do consulting work) has been as aconserva- efficiency. and describes the 1,200 native inhabitants as ‘‘gener- These findings will be available after the World Heritage Unescoamong Jaeger-LeCoultre,World Heritage Centre’sUnesco’s tion scientist, working primarily for the gov- Even reaching the site itself poses achallenge. Ren- ous, hospitable, friendly, God-fearing and trusting.’’ Committee meeting in Phnom Penh in June. MarineWorld HeritageProgramCentreand theand the ernment. So it is unsurprising that he loves the natural nell Island has minimal links with other parts of the So- The native residents have aunique responsibility, in ‘‘Over the past five years,’’ says Dingwall, ‘‘the Aus- InternationalHerHeraldald Tribune.Tribune.TheThe environment of East Rennell, with its 15,500-hectare lomon Islands, with only two air connections aweek to that they are the direct managers of the site. In fact, tralian government has made acommendable effort to series presents somesomeofofthethepeoplepeople lake (the former lagoon on the atoll), dense forest boast- the country capital of Honiara (an hour by plane) and notes Dingwall, East Rennell was the first site on the build the capacity of the local people to manage their who are helping preservepreservemarinemarine ing an average canopy of 20 meters (65 feet) and rich sporadic shipping schedules (once every several weeks) World Heritage List to be managed by traditional native site and develop tourism,’’ but this assistance is short sites on thetheWorldWorldHeritageHeritageList.List. To biodiversity. Its endemic species include the black water to the capital. After landing on Rennell, the traveler still owners under customary practices. term by definition. What is needed, he says, is astronger seeTovideossee videosaboutaboutWorldWorldHeritage snake, the pied cormorant, the white ibis and the white- has afour-hour ride over an unpaved road before reach- Before 1997, he explains, alisted World Heritage commitment to the World Heritage site by the govern- marineHeritagesites,marinevisitsites,thevisit‘‘Tidestheof‘‘ collared kingfisher. ing the World Heritage site. Consequently, visitors are property was supposed to be managed by the highest ment of the Solomon Islands. At present, says Dingwall: Time’’of Time’’archivearchiveatatwhc.unesco.org/whc.unesco.org/ Tourism was top of mind when East Rennell became a few and far between, and the site has yet to generate in- competent authority in the country, usually the govern- ‘‘East Rennell remains the Solomon Islands’ best-kept tidesoftime listed site, says Dingwall. The government of New Zealand come that could be used to improve its facilities. ment. ‘‘Gradually,’’ he says, ‘‘the committee came to secret as atourist destination.’’ C.F.

ON THE GROUND | Unfettered nature Remarkable for both its attributes and its integrity fall the islands scattered across the from the . The bluffs frame alime- South Pacific, the most exceptional stone covered in dense woods. The O might be one that few people have forest is largely undisturbed by humans and HISTORY SEEMS TO REPEAT ITSELF. ever heard of: Rennell Island in the Solomon displays anumber of adaptations to the fre- . Rennell is the world’s largest quent tropical cyclones that hit Rennell. CERTAINLY NOT OURS. raised coral atoll. Its best-known Lake Tegano occupies much of the is- —Lake Tegano —isthe largest lake in the land’s eastern end. Originally alagoon in the insular Pacific. From sea snakes to shore- middle of the atoll, it was uplifted along with birds, the isle boasts anumber of indige- everything else. The water is brackish but nous species. Even the human population supports awide variety of : more stands out: apocket of Polynesians in the than 300 species of diatoms and algae as middle of Melanesia. well as the Pacific short-finned eel and the Unesco recognized Rennell’s extraordi- small but poisonous Rennell Island sea

nary attributes in 1998 when it declared the PRODUCTIONS krait. Rimmed by rain forest and spangled island’s eastern third aWorld Heritage site. with small karst islands, the lake has a Even that was arecord of sorts: the first primeval feel, more like something from the World Heritage natural site with customary NDERSEA planet’s antediluvian past than acontem- /U ownership and management. But what porary landform. really stood out was the site’s integrity. As Flitting through the forests and around noted in the initial inscription: ‘‘The natural HARLIN the shorelines are43bird species,11differ- vegetation is little-modified by human im- LIZ ent types of bat and around 730 insect spe- pact and there are no serious invasive spe- The marine component of East Rennell remains cies. Agood number of these —like the cies of animals or plants. Both rats and alien largely unexplored and undocumented. Rennell flying fox, the Rennell shrikebill and land snails, which have decimated fauna of the Rennell fantail —are endemic. There other islands, are absent.’’ throughout the Pacific, and it is wonderful to are also 10 native plants, anumber of na- ‘‘East Rennell was the first World Herit- see other Pacific Island countries following tive land snails and the Rennell monitor liz- age listed site among the Pacific Island the Solomon Islands’ lead in seeking World ard. Although not unusual by South Pacific countries,’’ says Kate McMahon, who man- Heritage listing.’’ standards, the and lagoon that ages an Australian government project to Given its unusual geology, Rennell surround the island boast hundreds of other help the Solomon Islands strengthen World doesn’t resemble apicture-postcard South animal species. Heritage governance and management. Pacific island. Steep karst ridges covered in ‘‘While East Rennell is listed as anatural ‘‘There is much pride in East Rennell thick tropical vegetation shoot up straight site,’’ says McMahon, ‘‘the cultural values are very special as well.’’ Four villages cluster near the lake’s western end. The ma- jority of islanders trace their roots to are- verse migration of Polynesians that took Time is on the side of invention place around 1400 A.D., when people from Is necessity the mother of invention, As of today, Jaeger-LeCoultre Wallis Island in the central Pacific decided to as Plato pronounced more than has created 1,242 mechanical backtrack rather than plunging farther east- 2,300 years ago, or is invention the gauges for time pieces, as well as ward into the unknown. Rennell remained lit- mother of necessity, according to more than 190 chronograph erally off the map until 1801, when it was Albert Einstein in the 20th century? calibers and more than 200 encountered by British mariners. Today’s is- Both are true for the inventions chronograph minute repeater landers speak aPolynesian dialect similar of Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Swiss calibers. The latter have been to Maori. watchmaker that has been creating described by Hedy Woodrow, vice So far, humanity’s impact on Rennell has innovative ways to keep track of president of retail at Wynn Las been surprisingly light. But that’s not to say time for the last 180 years. Vegas, in an article in there aren’t threats. Climate change has Invention is part of the company’s vegasmagazine.com, as ‘‘some of spurred higher water levels and salinity in corporate culture, as evinced by the the rarest and most highly crafted Lake Tegano, factors that are adversely af- 398 patents it has been awarded watches in existence. Minute fecting plant growth, including that of major since 1833, when it was founded by repeaters are the ultimate prize for local food crops like taro and coconut. Any Antoine LeCoultre. serious watch collectors.’’ logging in western Rennell could greatly af- LeCoultre was an indefatigable Inventive treasures such as fect the flora and fauna inside the park, in inventor from ayoung age. He minute repeaters are only one particular the endemic birds. developed new metal alloys and example of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘‘While the site has been effectively man- improved the quality of in innovative excellence. Other aged by the local community,’’ says McMa- music boxes, but he was most innovations include the 101 Calibre, hon, ‘‘there is still no legal protection for the attracted to what some call the one of the world’s smallest site.’’ The lack of environmental protection noblest of the mechanical arts: mechanical movements; the Atmos, laws increases the risk of resource extrac- watchmaking. with its unique perpetual tion on Rennell Island. But the province and Watchmaking was the high-tech movement; the swivel case of the national governments are currently moving industry of the 19th century, Reverso; the Gyrotourbillon and the to remedy the situation. ‘‘These steps are 1,242 original calibres in 180 years: aworld record. very positive moves toward the protection Since 1833, the Grande Maison has developed 1,242 of the world’s smallest and most encompassing precision, Sphérotourbillon. complicated mechanical calibres. Driven by aconcern for elegance and performance, innovation, and industrial Establishing his first workshop of East Rennell,’’ says McMahon. J.R.Y. each of them is developed to match the specific size of the watch case that will house application. LeCoultre’s genius in all for all trades under one roof, it. From the iconic Reverso to the fascinating Sphérotourbillon, the Inventors of the these pursuits would revolutionize Antoine LeCoultre made such Vallée de Joux, as acknowledged masters in the art of horological complexity, continue to forge the history of Fine Watchmaking. YOU DESERVE AREAL WATCH. the world of watches and transform innovations possible. His founding Tides of time: East Rennell wasproduced Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux — principles have guided Jaeger- by the IHT CreativeSolutions department where he established his original LeCoultre ever since, enabling the and did not involvethe newspaper’s reporting or editorial departments. It is the workshop in 1833 —into the cradle company to create the future based 40th in aseries on Unesco’s World Heritage www.jaeger-lecoultre.com of Haute Horlogerie. on solid traditions of the past. C.F. marine sites. Text by CLAUDIA FLISI and JOSEPH R. YOGERST.