The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes
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This Keyword List Contains Indian Ocean Place Names of Coral Reefs, Islands, Bays and Other Geographic Features in a Hierarchical Structure
CoRIS Place Keyword Thesaurus by Ocean - 8/9/2016 Indian Ocean This keyword list contains Indian Ocean place names of coral reefs, islands, bays and other geographic features in a hierarchical structure. For example, the first name on the list - Bird Islet - is part of the Addu Atoll, which is in the Indian Ocean. The leading label - OCEAN BASIN - indicates this list is organized according to ocean, sea, and geographic names rather than country place names. The list is sorted alphabetically. The same names are available from “Place Keywords by Country/Territory - Indian Ocean” but sorted by country and territory name. Each place name is followed by a unique identifier enclosed in parentheses. The identifier is made up of the latitude and longitude in whole degrees of the place location, followed by a four digit number. The number is used to uniquely identify multiple places that are located at the same latitude and longitude. For example, the first place name “Bird Islet” has a unique identifier of “00S073E0013”. From that we see that Bird Islet is located at 00 degrees south (S) and 073 degrees east (E). It is place number 0013 at that latitude and longitude. (Note: some long lines wrapped, placing the unique identifier on the following line.) This is a reformatted version of a list that was obtained from ReefBase. OCEAN BASIN > Indian Ocean OCEAN BASIN > Indian Ocean > Addu Atoll > Bird Islet (00S073E0013) OCEAN BASIN > Indian Ocean > Addu Atoll > Bushy Islet (00S073E0014) OCEAN BASIN > Indian Ocean > Addu Atoll > Fedu Island (00S073E0008) -
Two-Soliton Interaction As an Elementary Act of Soliton Turbulence in Integrable Systems
Two-soliton interaction as an elementary act of soliton turbulence in integrable systems E.N. Pelinovsky1,2, E.G. Shurgalina2, A.V. Sergeeva1, T.G. Talipova1, 3 3 G.A. El ∗ and R.H.J. Grimshaw 1 Department of Nonlinear Geophysical Processes, Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia 2 Department of Applied Mathematics, Nizhny Novgorod Technical University, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia 3 Department of Mathematical Sciences, Loughborough University, UK ∗Corresponding author. Tel: +44 1509 222869; Fax: +44 1509 223969; e-mail: [email protected] 1 Abstract Two-soliton interactions play a definitive role in the formation of the structure of soliton turbulence in integrable systems. To quantify the contribution of these interactions to the dynamical and statistical characteristics of the nonlinear wave field of soliton turbulence we study properties of the spatial moments of the two-soliton solution of the Korteweg – de Vries (KdV) equation. While the first two moments are integrals of the KdV evolution, the third and fourth moments undergo significant variations in the dominant interaction region, which could have strong effect on the values of the skewness and kurtosis in soliton turbulence. Keywords: KdV equation, soliton, turbulence 1 Introduction Solitons represent an intrinsic part of nonlinear wave field in weakly dispersive media and their deterministic dynamics in the framework of the Korteweg– de Vries (KdV) equation is understood very well (see e.g.[1, 2, 3]). At the same time, description of statistical properties of a random ensemble of solitons (or a more general problem of the KdV evolution of a random wave field) still remains to a large extent an unsolved problem, especially in the context of concrete physical applications. -
Intracratonic Asthenosphere Upwelling and Lithosphere Rejuvenation
Earth and Planetary Science Letters 260 (2007) 482–494 www.elsevier.com/locate/epsl Intracratonic asthenosphere upwelling and lithosphere rejuvenation beneath the Hoggar swell (Algeria): Evidence from HIMU metasomatised lherzolite mantle xenoliths ⁎ L. Beccaluva a, , A. Azzouni-Sekkal b, A. Benhallou c, G. Bianchini a, R.M. Ellam d, M. Marzola a, F. Siena a, F.M. Stuart d a Dipartimento di Scienze della Terra, Università di Ferrara, Italy b Faculté des Sciences de la Terre, Géographie et Aménagement du Territoire, Université des Sciences et Technologie Houari Boumédienne, Alger, Algeria c CRAAG (Centre de Recherche en Astronomie, Astrophysique et Géophysique), Alger, Algeria d Isotope Geoscience Unit, Scottish Universities Environmental Research Centre, East Kilbride, UK Received 7 March 2007; received in revised form 23 May 2007; accepted 24 May 2007 Available online 2 June 2007 Editor: R.W. Carlson Abstract The mantle xenoliths included in Quaternary alkaline volcanics from the Manzaz-district (Central Hoggar) are proto-granular, anhydrous spinel lherzolites. Major and trace element analyses on bulk rocks and constituent mineral phases show that the primary compositions are widely overprinted by metasomatic processes. Trace element modelling of the metasomatised clinopyroxenes allows the inference that the metasomatic agents that enriched the lithospheric mantle were highly alkaline carbonate-rich melts such as nephelinites/melilitites (or as extreme silico-carbonatites). These metasomatic agents were characterized by a clear HIMU Sr–Nd–Pb isotopic signature, whereas there is no evidence of EM1 components recorded by the Hoggar Oligocene tholeiitic basalts. This can be interpreted as being due to replacement of the older cratonic lithospheric mantle, from which tholeiites generated, by asthenospheric upwelling dominated by the presence of an HIMU signature. -
Tllllllll:. Journal of Coastal Research, 17(4),919-930
Journal of Coastal Research 919-930 West Palm Beach, Florida Fall 2001 Obliquely Incident Wave Reflection and Runup on Steep Rough Slope Nobuhisa Kobayashi and Entin A. Karjadi Center for Applied Coastal Research University of Delaware Newark, DE 19716 ABSTRACT _ KOBAYASHI, N. and KARJADI, E.A., 2001. Obliquely incident wave reflection and runup on steep rough slope. .tllllllll:. Journal of Coastal Research, 17(4),919-930. West Palm Beach (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. ~ A two-dimensional, time-dependent numerical model for finite amplitude, shallow-water waves with arbitrary incident eusss~~ angles is developed to predict the detailed wave motions in the vicinity of the still waterline on a slope. The numerical --+4 method and the seaward and landward boundary algorithms are fairly general but the lateral boundary algorithm is b--- limited to periodic boundary conditions. The computed results for surging waves on a rough 1:2.5 slope are presented for the incident wave angles in the range 0-80°. The time-averaged continuity, momentum and energy equations are used to check the accuracy of the numerical model as well as to examine the cross-shore variations of wave setup, return current, longshore current, momentum fluxes, energy fluxes and dissipation rates. The computed reflected waves and waterline oscillations are shown to have the same alongshore wavelength as the specified nonlinear inci dent waves. The computed variations of the reflected wave phase shift and wave runup are shown to be consistent with available empirical formulas. More quantitative comparisons will be required to evaluate the model accuracy. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Oblique waves, reflection, runup, revetments, breakwaters, wave setup, return current, longshore current. -
Observations of Nearshore Infragravity Waves: Seaward and Shoreward Propagating Components A
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH, VOL. 107, NO. C8, 3095, 10.1029/2001JC000970, 2002 Observations of nearshore infragravity waves: Seaward and shoreward propagating components A. Sheremet,1 R. T. Guza,2 S. Elgar,3 and T. H. C. Herbers4 Received 14 May 2001; revised 5 December 2001; accepted 20 December 2001; published 6 August 2002. [1] The variation of seaward and shoreward infragravity energy fluxes across the shoaling and surf zones of a gently sloping sandy beach is estimated from field observations and related to forcing by groups of sea and swell, dissipation, and shoreline reflection. Data from collocated pressure and velocity sensors deployed between 1 and 6 m water depth are combined, using the assumption of cross-shore propagation, to decompose the infragravity wave field into shoreward and seaward propagating components. Seaward of the surf zone, shoreward propagating infragravity waves are amplified by nonlinear interactions with groups of sea and swell, and the shoreward infragravity energy flux increases in the onshore direction. In the surf zone, nonlinear phase coupling between infragravity waves and groups of sea and swell decreases, as does the shoreward infragravity energy flux, consistent with the cessation of nonlinear forcing and the increased importance of infragravity wave dissipation. Seaward propagating infragravity waves are not phase coupled to incident wave groups, and their energy levels suggest strong infragravity wave reflection near the shoreline. The cross-shore variation of the seaward energy flux is weaker than that of the shoreward flux, resulting in cross-shore variation of the squared infragravity reflection coefficient (ratio of seaward to shoreward energy flux) between about 0.4 and 1.5. -
Global Ship Accidents and Ocean Swell-Related Sea States
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci. Discuss., doi:10.5194/nhess-2017-142, 2017 Manuscript under review for journal Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci. Discussion started: 26 April 2017 c Author(s) 2017. CC-BY 3.0 License. Global ship accidents and ocean swell-related sea states Zhiwei Zhang1, 2, Xiao-Ming Li2, 3 1 College of Geography and Environment, Shandong Normal University, Jinan, China 2 Key Laboratory of Digital Earth Science, Institute of Remote Sensing and Digital Earth, Chinese Academy of Sciences, 5 Beijing, China 3 Hainan Key Laboratory of Earth Observation, Sanya, China Correspondence to: X.-M. Li (E-mail: [email protected]) Abstract. With the increased frequency of shipping activities, navigation safety has become a major concern, especially when economic losses, human casualties and environmental issues are considered. As a contributing factor, sea state conditions play 10 a significant role in shipping safety. However, the types of dangerous sea states that trigger serious shipping accidents are not well understood. To address this issue, we analyzed the sea state characteristics during ship accidents that occurred in poor weather or heavy seas based on a ten-year ship accident dataset. The sea state parameters, including the significant wave height, the mean wave period and the mean wave direction, obtained from numerical wave model data were analyzed for selected ship accidents. The results indicated that complex sea states with the co-occurrence of wind sea and swell conditions represent 15 threats to sailing vessels, especially when these conditions include close wave periods and oblique wave directions. 1 Introduction The shipping industry delivers 90% of all world trade (IMO, 2011). -
Physical Geography of Southeast Asia
Physical Geography of Southeast Asia Creating an Annotated Sketch Map of Southeast Asia By Michelle Crane Teacher Consultant for the Texas Alliance for Geographic Education Texas Alliance for Geographic Education; http://www.geo.txstate.edu/tage/ September 2013 Guiding Question (5 min.) . What processes are responsible for the creation and distribution of the landforms and climates found in Southeast Asia? Texas Alliance for Geographic Education; http://www.geo.txstate.edu/tage/ September 2013 2 Draw a sketch map (10 min.) . This should be a general sketch . do not try to make your map exactly match the book. Just draw the outline of the region . do not add any features at this time. Use a regular pencil first, so you can erase. Once you are done, trace over it with a black colored pencil. Leave a 1” border around your page. Texas Alliance for Geographic Education; http://www.geo.txstate.edu/tage/ September 2013 3 Texas Alliance for Geographic Education; http://www.geo.txstate.edu/tage/ September 2013 4 Looking at your outline map, what two landforms do you see that seem to dominate this region? Predict how these two landforms would affect the people who live in this region? Texas Alliance for Geographic Education; http://www.geo.txstate.edu/tage/ September 2013 5 Peninsulas & Islands . Mainland SE Asia consists of . Insular SE Asia consists of two large peninsulas thousands of islands . Malay Peninsula . Label these islands in black: . Indochina Peninsula . Sumatra . Label these peninsulas in . Java brown . Sulawesi (Celebes) . Borneo (Kalimantan) . Luzon Texas Alliance for Geographic Education; http://www.geo.txstate.edu/tage/ September 2013 6 Draw a line on your map to indicate the division between insular and mainland SE Asia. -
On the Reflectance of Uniform Slopes for Normally Incident Interfacial Solitary Waves
1156 JOURNAL OF PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY VOLUME 37 On the Reflectance of Uniform Slopes for Normally Incident Interfacial Solitary Waves DANIEL BOURGAULT Department of Physics and Physical Oceanography, Memorial University, St. John’s, Newfoundland, Canada DANIEL E. KELLEY Department of Oceanography, Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada (Manuscript received 29 March 2005, in final form 2 September 2006) ABSTRACT The collision of interfacial solitary waves with sloping boundaries may provide an important energy source for mixing in coastal waters. Collision energetics have been studied in the laboratory for the idealized case of normal incidence upon uniform slopes. Before these results can be recast into an ocean parameter- ization, contradictory laboratory findings must be addressed, as must the possibility of a bias owing to laboratory sidewall effects. As a first step, the authors have revisited the laboratory results in the context of numerical simulations performed with a nonhydrostatic laterally averaged model. It is shown that the simulations and the laboratory measurements match closely, but only for simulations that incorporate sidewall friction. More laboratory measurements are called for, but in the meantime the numerical simu- lations done without sidewall friction suggest a tentative parameterization of the reflectance of interfacial solitary waves upon impact with uniform slopes. 1. Introduction experiments addressed the idealized case of normally incident ISWs on uniform shoaling slopes in an other- Diverse observational case studies suggest that the wise motionless fluid with two-layer stratification. The breaking of high-frequency interfacial solitary waves results of these experiments showed that the fraction of (ISWs) on sloping boundaries may be an important ISW energy that gets reflected back to the source after generator of vertical mixing in coastal waters (e.g., impinging the sloping boundary depends on the ratio of MacIntyre et al. -
NWS Melbourne Marine Web Letter August 2013 (For Marine Forecast Questions 24/7: Call 321-255-0212, Ext
NWS Melbourne Marine Web Letter August 2013 (For Marine Forecast Questions 24/7: call 321-255-0212, ext. 2) Marine Links relevant to East Central Florida Buoy 41010 It is hoped that this buoy, which went adrift in February, will be redeployed by mid to late September. Additional Marine Observations I’ve added a web page that has most of the marine observations along the east coast. http://www.srh.noaa.gov/mlb/?n=marob Note that wind/wave data became available at Sebastian Inlet via the National Data Buoy Center earlier this year. There are also some web cams with wind data. One, at Jensen Beach, has wave data too. Upwelling Some on again, off again upwelling occurred over the continental shelf this summer. This is not unusual. South to southeast winds (near shore parallel) are the primary cause of periodic upwelling. In some years, these winds are persistent and stronger than normal, which produces more prolific upwelling. In 2003, water temps in the upper 50s occurred in mid August at Daytona Beach! Typically the upwelling diminishes by late August or September. Nearshore Wave Prediction System We will soon upgrade our nearshore wave model (SWAN) to the Nearshore Wave Prediction System (NWPS). One enhancement is that Gulf Stream data will be incorporated back into the wave model. This will allow us to give better estimates for the position of the west wall of the Gulf Stream. The wave model will again be able to generate higher wave heights in the Gulf Stream during northerly wind surges. Hopefully, this functionality will be ready by Fall when cold fronts start moving through again. -
Swash Zone Based Reflection During Energetic Wave Conditions at a Dissipative Beach: Toward a Wave-By-Wave Approach
SWASH ZONE BASED REFLECTION DURING ENERGETIC WAVE CONDITIONS AT A DISSIPATIVE BEACH: TOWARD A WAVE-BY-WAVE APPROACH Rafael Almar1, Patricio Catalán2, Raimundo Ibaceta2, Chris Blenkinsopp3, Rodrigo Cienfuegos4, Mauricio Villagrán4,5, Juan Carlos Aguilera4 and Bruno Castelle6 This paper presents a 11-day experiment conducted at the high-energy dissipative beach of Mataquito, Maule Region, Chile. During the experiment, offshore significant wave height ranged 1-4 m, with persistent long period up to 18 s and oblique incidence. Wave energy reflection value ranged from 1 to 4 %, and results show that it is highly linked to both incoming wave characteristics and swash zone beach slope, and is well correlated to a swash-slope based Iribarren number. The swash acting as a low-pass filter in the reflection mechanism, our results show that the cut-off period is better determined by swash slope rather than incoming wave's period. A new low cost technique for observing high-frequency swash hydro-morphodynamics is introduced and validated using LIDAR measurements. A good agreement is found. Separation of uprush and backswash components using the Radon Transform illustrates the low-frequency filtering effect. These results show the key role played by swash mechanism in the reflection rate and frequency selection. More investigation is needed to describe the reflection process and its link with shoreface evolution, moving toward a swash-by-swash approach. Keywords: Mataquito, Maule Region, Chile; beach reflection; incoming and outgoing wave separation; swash measurements technique; video; Lidar INTRODUCTION There is a potential for substantial wave reflection at the coast, depending on hydro- and morphodynamic conditions. -
Chapter 216 Extreme Water Levels, Wave Runup And
CHAPTER 216 EXTREME WATER LEVELS, WAVE RUNUP AND COASTAL EROSION P. Ruggiero1 , P.D. Komar2, W.G. McDougal1 and R.A. Beach2 ABSTRACT A probabilistic model has been developed to analyze the susceptibilities of coastal properties to wave attack. Using an empirical model for wave runup, long term data of measured tides and waves are combined with beach morphology characteristics to determine the frequency of occurrence of sea cliff and dune erosion along the Oregon coast. Extreme runup statistics have been characterized for the high energy dissipative conditions common in Oregon, and have been found to depend simply on the deep-water significant wave height. Utilizing this relationship, an extreme-value probability distribution has been constructed for a 15 year total water elevation time series, and recurrence intervals of potential erosion events are calculated. The model has been applied to several sites along the Oregon coast, and the results compare well with observations of erosional impacts. INTRODUCTION Much of the Oregon coast is characterized by wide, dissipative, sandy beaches, which are backed by either large sea cliffs or sand dunes. This dynamic coast typically experiences a very intense winter wave climate, and there have been many documented cases of dramatic, yet episodic, sea cliff and dune erosion (Komar and Shih, 1993). A typical response of property owners following such erosion events is to build large coastal protection structures. Often these structures are built after a single erosion event, which is followed by a long period with no significant wave attack. From a coastal management perspective, it is of interest to be able to predict the expected frequency and intensity of such erosion events to determine if a coastal structure is an appropriate response. -
Significant Dissipation of Tidal Energy in the Deep Ocean Inferred from Satellite Altimeter Data
letters to nature 3. Rein, M. Phenomena of liquid drop impact on solid and liquid surfaces. Fluid Dynamics Res. 12, 61± water is created at high latitudes12. It has thus been suggested that 93 (1993). much of the mixing required to maintain the abyssal strati®cation, 4. Fukai, J. et al. Wetting effects on the spreading of a liquid droplet colliding with a ¯at surface: experiment and modeling. Phys. Fluids 7, 236±247 (1995). and hence the large-scale meridional overturning, occurs at 5. Bennett, T. & Poulikakos, D. Splat±quench solidi®cation: estimating the maximum spreading of a localized `hotspots' near areas of rough topography4,16,17. Numerical droplet impacting a solid surface. J. Mater. Sci. 28, 963±970 (1993). modelling studies further suggest that the ocean circulation is 6. Scheller, B. L. & Bous®eld, D. W. Newtonian drop impact with a solid surface. Am. Inst. Chem. Eng. J. 18 41, 1357±1367 (1995). sensitive to the spatial distribution of vertical mixing . Thus, 7. Mao, T., Kuhn, D. & Tran, H. Spread and rebound of liquid droplets upon impact on ¯at surfaces. Am. clarifying the physical mechanisms responsible for this mixing is Inst. Chem. Eng. J. 43, 2169±2179, (1997). important, both for numerical ocean modelling and for general 8. de Gennes, P. G. Wetting: statics and dynamics. Rev. Mod. Phys. 57, 827±863 (1985). understanding of how the ocean works. One signi®cant energy 9. Hayes, R. A. & Ralston, J. Forced liquid movement on low energy surfaces. J. Colloid Interface Sci. 159, 429±438 (1993). source for mixing may be barotropic tidal currents.