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Home , Noodle soup, Peanut sauce, Sauce

T r o p i c a l F r u i t S a l a d w i t h P e a n u t f r a g r a n t S a u c e fla v o r s of

Singapore This Southeast Asian B y L a u r e l K all e n b a c h island is a hub of P h o t o s b y R i t a M a a s multiethnic fare

is a national obsession in and there is no better place for a Far East culinary adventure than the tiny island at the tip of the Malaysian peninsula. A bustling trade center and former British colony, Singapore was settled over the centuries by Chinese, Indians and Indonesians, who each added their foodways Tropical Fruit to those of the local Malays. The cultures remain distinct—a visitor with () can dine on Cantonese or Szechuan-style , partake of north Serves 8 / This colorful salad neatly blends sweet fruit with vegetables and tops it all off with a peanut and chili Indian tandoori or southern , or choose between Sumatran and sauce that also makes a delicious over rice or Chinese Javanese dishes. And nowhere has evolved to such a pinnacle . A traditional recipe would include juice as what’s available at hawker stands in sprawling food courts that serve and bunga kantan, a fleshy pink .

inexpensive—but inspired—multiethnic fare to the refined palates of S a l a d Singapore’s hungry masses. 4 ounces roasted, 1 papaya shelled 1 mango Of all the varieties of Asian in Singapore, one is unique: S p i c y 1-2 bird chiles 1 medium C o c o - Peranakan, or Nonya, . The Peranakans, descendants of south- or Thai peppers jicama n u t F i s h ern Chinese immigrants who married Malay women, have blended 1 1 starfruit C a k e s 1 1 ⁄2-inch piece of , ⁄4 pineapple Chinese beliefs with Malay food, dress and language. The men are peeled 1 cucumber 1 1 called baba and the women nonya, hence the term Nonya cuisine. ⁄2 cup juice ⁄4 pound bean 1 Peranakan food incorporates Chinese elements such as bean 1⁄2 tablespoons sprouts 1 sprouts, , noodles and , but it gets its flavor from Malay ⁄2 cup water

such as lime, , (a ginger-like root), coco- 1. Make Peanut Sauce by mixing first four ingre- nut, tamarind and the ubiquitous chile peppers—a must in most dients in a blender or food processor. Pour Singapore dishes. In fact, many recipes begin with making , chopped nuts and spices into bowl, and add juice and sugar. Then add water slowly until dressing a blend of hot chiles, ginger and other fragrant herbs reaches a sauce-like consistency. Set aside. that spices the cuisine. 2. For the salad, peel and slice fruits and veg- Food is so important in Peranakan society that the name for etables. Arrange in salad bowl or on individual kitchen means “stomach of the house,” because it’s the center for plates. Drizzle with Peanut Sauce. p e r s e r v i n g : 163 calories, 37% fat calories, 7g fat, 0mg cooking and congregating. It’s also where dried chiles, lemongrass, cholesterol, 23g carbs, 6g protein leaf and belacan, a spicy fermented prawn used in

many Nonya dishes, are stored. ‰

48 Delicious Living O c t o b e r 0 1  dl.healthwell.com dl.healthwell.com Delicious Living o c t o b e r 0 1  49 fragrant flavors of singapore

1 ⁄3 , chopped 4. Slice hard-boiled egg; set aside. Singapore Chicken In some parts of Singapore, the name for 1-inch slice of ginger, peeled 5. Pour sambal into wok or pot and simmer (Ayam Panggang) 2 tablespoons water on medium heat until bubbly and fragrant. Serves 6 / Every nonya spends hours in the kitchen, kitchen means “stomach of the house” because 1 tablespoon tamari sauce 6. Add , chicken and water. which invariably has a wood fire perfect for grilling 1 tablespoon it’s the center for cooking and congregating. Bring to a boil. Add and 1 teaspoon meat. This hot and tangy adds just . a touch of sizzle to chicken. Serve with steamed rice My personal Singapore food quest court. In lavish restaurants and humble 1. Wash, de-vein and chop kale or spinach into 7. Add seafood and tofu. Stir until cooked, about and top with leftover barbecue sauce for fiery flavor. began not in a home kitchen, but at The food stands alike, the bold and spicy flavors bite-size pieces. Set aside. 4 minutes. Wash down your barbecue with a cold, tangy limeade, 1 Blue Ginger, a Peranakan restaurant located of Singapore are unforgettable. 2. Purée chile, garlic, onion, ginger and water in 8. In individual bowls, put ⁄2 , some a popular Singapore beverage. in Chinatown. There, I first tasted the exotic blender or food processor. bean sprouts and a slice of egg. Cover with Ayam Buan Keluak, a braised chicken with Kale with Ginger and Chiles 3. Pour blended mixture into wok. Add seafood soup. Serve immediately. 4 garlic Indonesian black nuts baked in a clay pot tamari and sesame oil. Heat until sizzling, p e r s e r v i n g : 197 calories, 30% fat calories, 7g fat, 1-inch slice ginger, peeled Serves 4 / For side dishes, the people of Singapore until they soften and taste like bitter choco- then add kale to wok. Stirfry for 3– 5 minutes 56mg cholesterol, 22g carbs, 13g protein 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice ‰ love dark-green, leafy vegetables such as kai lan and - late. My favorite Nonya dish was the home- until kale becomes limp. Serve hot. kangkung, which resemble spinach or kale. made coconut fish called Otak Otak, p e r s e r v i n g : 105 calories, 33% fat calories, 4g fat, a recipe I’ve re-created here. A close run- 1 pound kale or spinach 0mg cholesterol, 15g carbs, 4g protein ner-up was Lemak, a coconut seafood 1 bird chile soup that I first tasted at the Lau Pa Sat food 4 cloves garlic Coconut Soup (Laksa Lemak) Spicy Coconut Fish Cakes (Otak Otak) Serves 8 / This is an updated version of a classic Serves 8 / This aromatic treat is a favorite in Peranakan restaurants and hawker stalls. Nonya soup, replacing Chinese-style You can grill this tangy appetizer the traditional way—wrapped in banana leaves— with and quail eggs with tender morsels of lightly fried tofu. or simply bake it in the oven. Otak Otak can be served hot or cold as a . Follow the additional instructions for a creamy tofu version of this recipe. S a m b a l 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 2. Place ground spices in a skillet or wok and 1-2 bird chiles cook 2 minutes, just enough to release 1 large onion, diced spicy flavor. Turn off heat and allow mix- 2-inch piece of ginger or galangal, ture to cool. Stir in coconut milk. peeled and chopped 3. Add sugar and salt to mix, and stir. 2 teaspoons shrimp paste (optional) 4. Add flour and beaten egg. Stir thoroughly. 2 teaspoons curry powder 5. remove center vein of leaves 2 stalks fresh lemongrass, and mince finely, or substitute lime . peeled and diced, or zest of 1 Add to spicy coconut mixture. U d o n 1 6. chop raw, deboned fish into small chunks. ⁄2 pound organic, firm tofu 2-inch piece of ginger, Stir into spicy coconut mixture. 1 teaspoon oil

peeled and sliced 7. Pour fish mixture into an 8-inch pan. 6-8 ounces udon noodles 2-inch piece of turmeric root, Bake in 350˚ oven for 25–30 minutes until 1 egg, hard-boiled peeled and sliced edges are golden brown and mixture has 1 cup canned light coconut milk 6 bird chiles set. Cool slightly and cut into squares and 1 cup canned fat-free chicken broth 1 Zest of one lemon serve. To make small, round fish cakes, 1⁄2 cups water 1 10 or 2 , peeled and sliced pour mix about 1⁄2 -inches deep into muf- 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon ground coriander fin tins and bake for 15–20 minutes. Or, 4 ounces raw shrimp, peeled 1 14-ounce can light coconut milk spoon about 5 tablespoons of the mixture and de-veined 1 tablespoon sugar into 6-inch x 12-inch banana leaves, 4 ounces raw scallops 1 1⁄2 teaspoons salt like a tamale, and secure ends with tooth- 1 cup bean sprouts 2 tablespoons flour picks or skewers. Grill over hot coals for 1 egg, beaten 10–15 minutes, or until mixture has set. 1. In blender or food processor, purée garlic, 10 kaffir lime leaves or zest of 1 lime * t o s u b s titute tofu fo r f i s h chiles, onion, ginger, 1 teaspoon shrimp paste, 1 1⁄3 pounds chopped, filleted haddock, Use 18 ounces of firm tofu. Chop into curry powder and lemongrass until mixture cod, mackerel or any other white, cubes and prepare recipe as indicated, forms paste. Add a few teaspoons of flaky fish* but instead of using fish, place tofu and water if necessary. Set aside. banana leaves for wrapping (optional) vegetable egg mixture into blender or food 2. Slice tofu into squares about 1-inch wide and 1 processor and purée until smooth. Bake or ⁄4-inch thick. In a nonstick pan, lightly fry in oil 1. Place ginger, turmeric, chiles, lemon, onions grill as indicated. until edges are golden. Pat with paper towel to and coriander in a blender or food processor p e r s e r v i n g : 168 calories, 30% fat calories, remove excess oil and set aside. and purée. Add a little water if needed. 6g fat, 70mg cholesterol, 13g carbs, 17g protein 3. boil udon noodles and set aside.

50 Delicious Living O c t o b e r 0 1  Delicious Living o c t o b e r 0 1  51 fragrant flavors of singapore Singapore’s bold and spicy flavors are unforgettable. 4-6 skinless, boneless chicken breasts dash of salt minutes to allow sauce to reduce. B a r b e c u e H o t S a u c e * 5. Add lime juice, sugar, salt and pepper to 6 bird chiles cooked sauce. 2 onions, peeled and quartered 6. Marinate chicken breasts in Barbecue Hot 12 cloves garlic, peeled Sauce for 30 minutes. 2 tomatoes, cut into quarters 7. Place chicken over charcoal or indoor grill. 1 tablespoon Top with thin layer of Barbecue . Juice of one lime, freshly squeezed Cook on one side, turn, cover the cooked side 1 teaspoon sugar with sauce and finish grilling. Salt and pepper to taste 8. Serve with steamed rice. For extra spicy chicken, with lime wedges and left- 1. Mince 4 cloves of garlic and ginger, mix- over sauce. ing them together in small bowl. Pour in 1 * barbecue Hot Sauce can be prepared in tablespoon lime juice. Rub mixture onto raw advance. chicken breasts. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Set per serving: 211 calories, 20% fat calories, 5g fat, chicken aside. 63mg cholesterol, 15g carbs, 29g protein n 2. to prepare Barbecue Hot Sauce, place chiles, onions, garlic and tomatoes into steamer and Laurel Kallenbach, a travel and health writer, cook 5 minutes. would like to thank Siti Ismail, who shared her 3. Peel tomatoes; place steamed vegetables mother’s recipes. The Food of Singapore (Periplus into a blender, and chop coarsely. Editions, 1997) and The Best of Singapore Cook- 4. heat oil in skillet and add chopped vegeta- ing (Times Books International, 1999) by Yee Soo bles. Sauté over medium heat for about 5 Leong also provided culinary inspiration.

52 Delicious Living O c t o b e r 0 1